A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

The History of Jehanna.

THE Morning following we came under the Westward part of Johanna,* 1.1 where opposed us a lofty Ridge of Mountains, one of which advanceth its aspiring Head up to the towring Clouds: Over against which lies the Island called Mohelia, at the same di∣stance Calice is from Dover; the better Island of the Two, though not so big, nor quite so Mountainous; it being more plentifully,

as 'tis said, stored with Provisions; but not furnished with so safe an Harbour for Ships as Johanna: The only difficulty here being the Weathering the Point, in which, notwithstanding several Ships have been driven off to Sea, not being able to recover the Island again, the Winds descending in desperate Gusts drive them into the Trade∣winds, which here commence again. But our Ships were blest with better success, and came all safe to Anchor under a Lee-shore, which sufficiently protected them from the Winds by the highth of the Mountains. A Blessing not to be passed by without a grateful Com∣memoration, when half the Fleet were disabled by Distempers ac∣quired by Salt Meats, and a long Voyage without Refreshments; and must have suffered too for want of Water, had not they met with a seasonable Recruit.

The first care then was to send the Sick Men ashore,* 1.2 which it is incredible to relate how strangely they revived in so short a time, by feeding on Oranges and Fresh Limes, and the very smell of the Earth; for those that were carried from the Ships in Cradles, and looked upon as desperate, in a days time could take up their Beds and walk; only minding to fetch them anights, that the Misty Vapours might not hinder the kind Operation begun on their tainted Mass of Blood, by these Specifick Medicines of Nature's own preparing.

We had Leisure now joined to Security of the Dutch,* 1.3 for that no Ships from India can readily return this way into Europe at this time of the Year; and the Hollanders, after having touched at the Cape, usually go first to Batavia, before they coast India; which gave us free leave to dedicate our selves to all the Pleasure this Place could afford; which for its Excellencies may deserve to be called Happy, as well as any the Ancients bestowed the Name of For∣tunate, Macaria or Foelix on. It lies in 12 deg. South Latitude, Lon∣gitude 62 deg. 4 min. It is one of the Islands of Africa, though lying in the Eastern Sea; yet because the Coasts of Africa extend themselves to the Line on this North side of the Cape, we must take these Adjacent Isles in the same Account: On the South-East lies Meoty, North-West Mohelia, and North-East Comero, all Four Co∣lonies of the Moors or Arabians, or at least in subjection to them.

But to return to Johanna;* 1.4 the innermost part we suppose to be fruitful, by what the Verge of it declares; for to be satisfied in that Point would be hardly worth the while, the Mountains requiring more pains to conquer than would quit cost, they being altogether inaccessible, or their Passages unknown to us.

The Relation therefore to be expected,* 1.5 must be of that lies lowest and nearest the Sea. The Circuit I imagine to be almost an 100 Miles, all along which, it is variously cast into Hills, and furrowed into Vales; as it Nature had plowed them on purpose for encrease. The outwa••t Coat of which is embroidered with Thamarind Palmetto (from the Tree distills a Wine intoxicating, and an Oil medicinable, externally applied to Bruises, Strains, &c.) It yields also some store of Pine Apples, Ananas, growing on Shrubs like Arti∣chokes.* 1.6 But above all, there is a Tree famed for being 14 Fathom compass, it resembles most a small Ivy Leaf; the Body seems to be many smaller incorporated into one huge one, of no other use than to be admired, Hederâ formosior albâ, unless in opposition to the

Heathen, who adore it, they throw the Dead Bodies of their Slaves under it, when Justice is executed on them, to expose them for Ter∣rour to others, many Bones of Humane Bodies lying there at this time. There is also a Gourd esteemed of them more for the large Shell than Meat; it will hold a Pailful, in Figure like a Man's Head, and therefore called a Calabash.

Rivers they have not many,* 1.7 but Rivulets good store; and of such Water, that next our Thames, it is the best, which is justly prefer∣red, (I mean our Thames Water) because it bears a Body beyond others, and therefore kept till the last to be spent, always reserving a stock thereof to serve them home; for though it stink like Pud∣dle-water when opened first, and have a Scum on it like Oil (which the Coopers affirm they are as cautious to strike with their Adds on the Cask for fear of taking fire, as of Brandy it self) yet let it stand unbunged on the Deck twenty four hours, it recovers its goodness, and is the only Water they rely on in an East-India Voyage, and therefore they are careful to save it till the last.

Towns some few they are Masters of, but for Sumptuous Fabricks none will be found here.

Their Chiefest Town bears the Name of the Island,* 1.8 which is seated along the Strand, under an high Hill; on one side refreshed with a gentle gliding Stream; on the other side recreated with a fine Plain, prodigal of its Fertility. The Town it self is to look on, an heap of Ruins, nothing remaining but the Marks of former Industry (pro∣bably the Portugals) here being left Walls of an huge thickness, composed of Stone, and cemented with Lime: To every House a Portal, but miserably defaced with Age; the Planks of their Doors sewed together, their Buildings not exceeding one Story; against these, Laziness has suggested them to lean their Flaggy Mansions: Flags especially in their Villages (by them called Cajans, being Co-Coe-tree Branches) upheld with some few Sticks, supplying both Sides and Covering to their Cottages. They commonly order their Model so, as to make a Quadrangle with only one Entrance, all the rest being closed outwards without any Windows; in which every House of Note on the Right-hand has a shady Contrivance, like the Walks to our Tennis-Courts, but not so long; on the upper end of which sits the Master of the Family on a Bed of Rattans, a kind of Cane: Here he, with the Steward of his House, are observed by his Slaves (who stand aloof) to spend the heat of the day.

Among these,* 1.9 but at some remoteness from any of their Dwel∣lings, are two Mosques, or places for Devotion, built after the manner of our Churches (but for Magnificence much like their other Structures) with Isles and Naves walled up to the very top; within them only a place left for entrance at the West end. They are de∣cently Matted on the Floor, though not hung so much as with a Cobweb on the Walls; which they keep (and in that to be com∣mended) very clean. In the Piatzos (for such their Porches had) stands on the Right-hand a square Stone Cistern, full of Water; and the whole without any Doors always open. The Nobler of the Two has at the West-end a round Tower, not very high; to this like∣wise belongs a more spacious Yard, filled with Tombs reared Man's heighth, covering them with a falling Ledge atop, leaving open a

Port-hole at the North-end, where the Head lies, for a Lamp: To inrich them, they are bestuck with China Ware of good value.

Having given you the Description thus far,* 1.10 I must crave leave for my Error, in not giving it the Style of Regal before now: For it proves to be the Seat of one of their Kings, which I had almost forgot, had not my greedy Eye espied a House more eminently seated, and more decently covered than the rest, but the Materials not much different; only they have allotted him a little more Air to breath forth his swelling Title, King of Johannah Town. Where∣fore after a small Enquiry, it was manifest it was the Palace Royal; nor did I much doubt it, after we had gained admission; where did sit the King in state, at the upper end of such a Place as before was taken notice of, on a Cott, or Bed, strewed with a Quilt. On a Bench at each Elbow were placed two of his Nobles by him: We being introduced, instead of Kissing his Majesty's Hand, he took us one after another most graciously by the Fist, and by the Mouth of his Interpreter pronounced us heartily welcome, and bad us take our Seats according to our Qualities; which, after we had put our Hats on, we did; and the Interpreter with great Respect took his on the Floor crouching in the midst of us. In this manner, without shew of dread or fear of being misconstrued, we talked freely of matters re∣lating to both our States; as he first examining if we had any Gun∣powder or Compass-Glasses to spare him? We seconded his Demands with what regarded Provisions for our Voyage; for which License our Captains are obliged to make him Presents of Scarlet-cloth, and other Europe Rarities, that they may unmolested buy the Bullocks, Cows, Goats and Hens of his Subjects. Both being at length out of Discourse, or not very well understanding one another, he speaking Arabick, we as good English as we could; we had liberty in this in∣terval to survey the Gorgeousness of his Attire. On his Head he wore a large White Turbat, and had as good a White Shirt on his Back; from his Girdle half way his Legs, a Blue Silk Vest fringed with Purple, without Shooes or Stockins to his Feet, which he often pulling up into his Cott or Couch, would smilingly cross them, and with his Nails claw off the Dirt. By him lay a Purple Silk Robe, attended with a Black-guard of some a Dozen Slaves; compared with whom he looked great, and was a comely well Limb'd Person, though a Woolly-pated Coffery.

His Nobles (because we are not to meet with many of them) pray take them in their best Liveries.* 1.11 On their Crowns they wear Caps of Arabian Needle-work intermixed with divers Colours; which notwithstanding no bigger than Skull-caps, they move not to the best Man in the Company; it being their Custom only to Salam, giving a bow with their Hands across their Breasts: Their Bodies clad in White also; about their Loins Cloth of Arabia, Chec∣quered as our Barbers Aprons, but not so good (pace tantorum vi∣rorum) over all a thin Robe; both King and Princes encourage their Beards to their full growth.

Their Priests,* 1.12 one of which attended, are habited in fashion not much different, had not the Colour inclined to Black; and on their Heads a Leather Coif lined with Fur.

When we took our leaves, we Presented him and his Peers with a few Brass Rings with False Stones,* 1.13 with which they seemed to be well pleased.

What Towns they have of Note we could not learn;* 1.14 but Towns they have, if not Cities, within the Country. And certain it is, their Chief Governour is an Arabian Lord.

This Johanna Town is about Three quarters of a Mile in length, and may contain Two hundred Houses; their Streets being no broader than our Allies.

Villages are very thick,* 1.15 and Cottages disperst in every place.

Every Valley makes a delightful Grove, one of which exceeding all the rest, was cooled with two dainty Currents, decked with a continual Spring, charming the Senses with the real Sweets of any the most exquisitely feigned Paradises; to see Limes grow on Shrubs, Leafed and Thorned like our Crabs, Oranges, (of which there is a pleasing sort, though small, not giving place to our China ones) tempting the Sight from a more exalted, and less suspicious Tree. Over which the lofty Cocoes with unparallel'd straitness stretch forth their Boughs, disposed in Ranks, as if ordered by the Skilful∣lest Planter.

Lower than these, but with a Leaf far broader, stands the Curi∣ous Plantan, loading its tender Body with a Fruit, whose Clusters emulate the Grapes of Canaan, which burthened two Mens Shoulders; below which, an odoriferous Plant seizes the Smell; and winding through its subtile Meanders, revives the Faculties of the Brain: Here the flourishing Papaw (in Taste like our Melons, and as big, but growing on a Tree leafed like our Fig-tree), Citrons, Limons, and many more, contend to indulge the Taste; the warbling Birds the Ear; and all things, as if that general Curse were exempted, strive to gratify the Life of Man.

Neither has Nature so played the Wanton here,* 1.16 as to be unmind∣ful of the Ascending Hills, which in other places by chance are pro∣ductive, but here they abound, and liberally bestow on the humble Valleys: Notwithstanding the Clime it is situate under, bears the reproach of that uninhabitable Zone; yet that Aspersion is blown off by those admirably tempered Breizes off the Mountains.

The Inhabitants are black,* 1.17 though not so black as at St. Iago, as well Limb'd, and as well Featur'd; neither so tall, nor so proud as they, but more honest: Whether out of fear of Punishment, or na∣tural Integrity, may be left to conjecture: For our Fleet lying as now at an Anchor, some years passed, they filched some slight things from the English; as likewise some Sailers from them; the Grievances on both sides known, and the Parties detected. Our Commanders had their Men slashed publickly on Shore, when they cut the Throats of theirs.

To proceed; They are like the Country they live in, innocent; for as the one produces nothing hurtful, so they have always had the Character of being harmless. They are courteous to Strangers, but above all to the English; punctual in their Words, and as ready to tax for breach of Promise: Lazy above measure, despising all Mechanical Arts; and in them Necessity compels them to employing their Priests; as in building Boats, making Mats. Yet in one thing

to be wondred at, for making Old Iron, which they covet mightily, into Knives, or Tools, as sharp as Raisors; in other things rude∣ly imitating, but not deserving the name of Artists.

The while we were there, they had a great Vessel on the Stocks; Stocks like the Checks to our Long Boats; the Keel of it was a whole Tree, no otherwise fitted than it grew, only the Branches lopped off. To it, for Stem and Stern, were fastened two others, shorter; on both sides Planks sewed to the main Timbers, with the Thread of the Cocoe-nut, each Hole stopped with Pitch. Thus had they raised it to the capacity of Thirty Tuns: When it will be finished, at the rate they work, will be hard to guess.

They are Owners of several small Provoes,* 1.18 of the same make, and Canooses, cut out of one intire piece of Wood; poised with Booms to keep them from over-setting; in these they paddle with broad Sticks, not row as we with Oars.

They are very active at Climbing,* 1.19 Running like Jackanapes up their Cocoe-nut Trees, which they do by twisting a Band to keep close their Feet, as they raise their Bodies by their Arms grasped about the Trees.

They are not solicitous for much to cover them, only a Clout to hide their shame, trust with a String round about their Waists, in which they stick their Knives, in a readiness to cut down their Food from the Trees.

Their Slaves have a dejected Countenance,* 1.20 distinguished by bore∣ing their Ears: They sit on Stones, or low Seats, their Arms folded like Monkies.

However,* 1.21 they are not so abject, but that they have the use of Letters, and some science in Astrology, by what I can testify: For walking the Country, and almost tired, I stept into an House, where I saw a Man writing with a Pen made of a Cane, in the bottom of a Bowl besmeared over with black; considering a-while, at length I observed he made Arabian Characters, and aimed to draw a Scheme, which when he had done, he poured Water upon, and stirring it round with his Finger, wiped it out again, and as he did this, mut∣tered seriously to himself, doing so thrice. I watched what he intend∣ed, and found that a Woman lay sick there, and this Charm was her Physick.

Besides this,* 1.22 I have it on report from some that saw their Schools for Education of their Youth, where they teach them to write, and by Bundles of Characters tied together to Ape Printing. What they make their Impression on, I cannot inform you; but Paper is no despicable Commodity among them.

That Arabick is their Speech,* 1.23 is without contradiction; with what purity I am no competent Judge.

The Religion among them is Mahometism;* 1.24 their Priests not so much exercised in Learning, as the Labour of their Hands.

Their Women are fat and short,* 1.25 not so big Breasted as those at St. Iago, better clad than the Men, wearing a course Sheet about them from their Breasts below their Knees; about their Heads they wear an Hairlace, or somewhat instead of it, not to tie their Hair up, which is short enough; but it may be, as our Dames in England, to keep the Wrinkles out of their Foreheads: In their Ears Mock-Jewels;

about their Necks and Wrists trifling Bracelets of Beads, Glass, or Wire of Brass; about the small of their Legs Brass Chains, and on their Fingers Rings of the same Metal. Seemingly fearful of a White Man, as are their Children, who are much troubled with the Navel-Rupture (Hernia umbilicalis),* 1.26 either from the Windiness of their Food, or Ignorance of their Midwives in cutting the Navel-string, when they design to make the Boys good measure; which succeeds in these, for their Penis is of the larger shape. The Wives are very obsequious to their Husbands, seldom stirring abroad, doing the Drudgeries of the House.

They dress Fowls very well,* 1.27 but kill them very barbarously, pul∣ling first their Feathers off to the Wings, then by degrees raise the Skin, after which Torture they as slowly cut their Throats, till they have finished a short Litany, which is the Priest's Office, if at hand; otherwise the Good Man of the House says Grace; they butchering their Goats in as Jewish a manner.

Their usual Diet is the Fruits of the Earth,* 1.28 not caring much for Flesh, though they have great store of Pullen, Goats, and Kine; which last but small, and not very good Meat, their Fat cleaving to the roof of the mouth; not so big as our Welsh Beasts, yet have this peculiar, a Bunch of Fat betwixt their Shoulders, which eaten tastes like Marrow.

Their Pasture,* 1.29 for want of Agriculture, rather Reeds than Grass; they have Rice in the Low-lands, and a Pease called Garavance: On the Sand near the Sea grows semper vivum maximum, from whose Juice comes Aloes, the best from Succotra: Here grows Cow-Itch in abundance, and all sorts of Saunders, which the Seamen cut for firing to bring aboard.* 1.30 Destitute of Asses, Mules, and Horses, but that want compensated by a richer Commodity, Ambergreece, for which the Arabian is the greatest Merchant and Sharer.

Fowls for Game they have several,* 1.31 the best of which is the Guinney Hen, Turtle Doves; Crows with white Breasts, Buzzards, and Bats bodied like and near as big as a Weasel, with large Wings wove upon strong Gristles.

They have a sort of a Jackanape they call a Budgee,* 1.32 the hand∣somest I ever saw.

Honey and Mullasses they have good store.

Having thus taken a Survey of them,* 1.33 one would think Ambition banished hence, and that Discord should have little countenance from Subjects so alike contemptible. Such is the growth of that Seed, that no Ground comes amiss to it: Here, where neither Care nor Toil is burthensome, are they vexed with continual War by their opposite Neighbour the Mohelian, whom formerly they used to engage on Planks at Sea, casting Stones and Darts; since, by a better Instinct, they have provided themselves of securer Vessels, and as at this time devising greater, they adventure with better force, and in shrewder Battels, beginning to enquire after Swords and Guns, with the first of which the English do supply them: For which, and a former Courtesy of a Vessel sent them to land some Men on the Enemies Coasts, proceeds their more than ordinary love for the English.

How these behave themselves in War, or with what Discipline, is not in me to tell: Some Marks of their Valour many of them bear about them, as the Badges of their greatest Honour, who have their Limbs distorted, or Flesh beaten in. What the ground of these Feuds are, we cannot learn; unless the bad Influence of some malignant Planet, or else that Make-bate of the world, whose great∣est business is Contention, should insinuate it into them. The Ara∣bian Lords of each do strive to reconcile them; which if they do for a time, it breaks out again in open War: And probable it is, that these Animosities have rendred them liable to the Subjection they are now in; whose very Islands else, with an united Force of Stones and Arms to bear them, were able to defend them.

Four days being spent in this sweet Wilderness,* 1.34 our Admiral by firing a Gun, and loosing his Fore-top-sail, summoned us aboard.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Arrival at Johanna.
• * 1.2

  Care of the Sick.
• * 1.3

  Situation of the Island.
• * 1.4

  The Inland inaccessible.
• * 1.5

  The Circuit.
• * 1.6

  Among other Trees, there is one 14 Fa∣thom round.
• * 1.7

  Their Rivulets the best Wa∣ter next the Thames Water.
• * 1.8

  Their Town and Buildings.
• * 1.9

  Two Mosques.
• * 1.10

  The King's Court.
• * 1.11

  Their Nobles.
• * 1.12

  Their Priests.
• * 1.13

  We Present them.
• * 1.14

  They are Vas∣sals to the Arabs.
• * 1.15

  Villages. A pleasant Grove.
• * 1.16

  The Hills are fruitful as well as the Vallies.
• * 1.17

  Temper of the Inhabi∣tants.
• * 1.18

  Their Vessels for Sea.
• * 1.19

  Active at Climbing.
• * 1.20

  Slaves how known.
• * 1.21

  Skilled in Let∣ters and Astro∣logy.
• * 1.22

  Ape-Printing.
• * 1.23

  Their Speech:
• * 1.24

  Religion.
• * 1.25

  Women.
• * 1.26

  Their Chil∣dren troubled with the Na∣vel Rupture.
• * 1.27

  Their way of killing Fowls, &c.
• * 1.28

  Their Diet.
• * 1.29

  Their Corn.
• * 1.30

  Want of Asses, Mules, and Horses.
• * 1.31

  Fowls for Game.
• * 1.32

  A Budgee.
• * 1.33

  Their invete∣rate Hate to the Mohelians.
• * 1.34

  We are called aboard to set sail.