A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. I.

Takes Notice of Broach; the Change of Governors at Surat; intestine Broils of the Empire; Rencounters of the English; and Portentous Accidents of this Year.

SIR,

MY last I had thought to have presented you with my own hands,* 1.1 but being still detained, I must persist to give you farther Trouble.

Forty Course Northward of Surat lies Broach; it therefore being esteemed in relation to the English as a Branch of this Factory, up∣on any one of our Merchants being ill, they can easily and suddenly send a Messenger for Assistance; which gave me opportunity of see∣ing that City, soon after I had returned with the President to Surat.

The Way thither is twofold, either by Sea or Land; the first, from Swally-hole,* 1.2 makes an easy Passage up that Creek, or rather Arm of the Sea, to Broach River's Mouth, into which the River empties its self: The latter is measured over a spacious Plain, and is travelled either by Coach or on Horseback, both which I had for my Conveyance, together with the Attendance of a good Guard of the Company's Peons, because of frequent Robberies hereabouts. Going out by Broach-Gate, we fell into a notable beaten Way;

Hoc iter manifesta rotae vestigia cernes.

Contrary to whatever we found in any Place of Persia,* 1.3 where are neither Carts, Coaches, or Wains: There we sel∣dom meet any to turn us out of our Way; here the Roads are pester'd with Caphalaes of Oxen, Camels, and Bufolaes, with heavy Waggons drawn by Teams of Oxen, yok'd Eight, some∣times a Dozen or Sixteen times double, bringing and carrying Goods of all sorts: There with Guides, here with Guards, for fear of Thieves descending from the Mountains, or lying in Ambuscado among the

Thickets:* 1.4 There they journey at all Seasons, secure from Weather or Assaults; here they must observe the set times, and move with a good Force, both to defend them from their own Armies, and the Insults of Outlaws: Here are no Caravans or Inns to shut them in a-nights, for then is their time of travelling; and when they rest, if they have no Tents, they must shelter themselves under shady Trees, or sometimes great Tombs in the Highways, unless they happen on a Chowkre, i. e. a Shed, where the Customer keeps a Watch to take Custom: Yet good Rivers are more often found here than there; and where they are deficient, they want not great Tanks or Ponds of Rain-Water mostly uncover'd and open to the Heavens, or else deep Wells many Fathom under Ground, with stately Stone Stairs, Cool Apartments, and Grottoes, whence Oxen (as has been said) draw Water, with huge Leathern Buckets or Pots around a Wheel, to water their Gardens: But one thing you are more sure of here than there, and that is, Provisions of all sorts, in almost every Village, which stand thick hereabouts.

The Coaches (unless those called the President's) and Carts are much alike,* 1.5 the last being only stronger built with main Timber for strength. But it being no unpleasant spectacle to see one of these Chariots equipped, I cannot forbear giving it you; though I am sensible it cannot be so well express'd in writing, as the Sight is now comically represented unto me: Two large Milk-white Oxen are putting in to draw it, with circling Horns as black as a Coal, each Point tipped with Brass, from whence come Brass Chains across to the Headstall, which is all of Scarlet, and a Scarlet Collar to each, of Brass Bells, about their Necks, their flapping Ears snipped with Art, and from their Nostrils Bridles covered with Scarlet: The Cha∣riot it self is not swinging like ours, but fasten'd to the main Axle by neat Arches, which support a Foursquare Seat, which is inlaid with Ivory, or enriched as they please; at every Corner are turn'd Pillars, which make (by twisted Silk or Cotton Cords) the Sides, and support the Roof, covered with English Scarlet Cloth, and lin'd with Silk, with Party-colour'd Borders; in these they spread Car∣pets, and lay Bolsters to ride cross-legg'd, sometimes three or four in one: It is born on two Wheels only, such little ones as our Fore∣wheels are, and pinn'd on with a Wooden Arch, which serves to mount them: The Charioteer rides afore, a-straddle on the Beam that makes the Yoke for the Oxen, which is covered with Scarlet, and finely carved underneath; he carries a Goad instead of a Whip: In Winter (when they rarely stir) they have a Mumjuma, or Wax-Cloth to throw over it. Those for Journeying are something strong∣er than those for the Merchants to ride about the City, or to take the Air on; which with their nimble Oxen they will, when they meet in the Fields, run Races on, and contend for the Garland as much as for an Olympick Prize; which is a Diversion, To see a Cow gallop, as we say in scorn; but these not only pluck up their Heels apace, but are taught to amble, they often riding on them.

Four-wheel'd Coaches, and to sit with the Legs hanging down, here are none, unless some few the Europe Merchants have, covered with Scarlet, and ill hung, being much like those sold at London to

please little Children with, only larger, and lin'd with Velvet; they having no Horses managed for the Coach, or any skill'd to drive them, so that these also are drawn by Oxen.

Setting out about Sun rise,* 1.6 we passed by pleasant Inclosures spread far from the City, and flourishing Fields of Corn, and Plantations of Tobacco; we came Three Course, and then ferried over the River to Bereaw, a Village on the Bank of the other side; and at Persaw, two Course more, we broke our Fast; when it growing hot, we went but a Course and a half over another small River, before we baited under a Grove of Palms, or Toddy-Trees.

When the Crows came hither to roost (which they did in great Flocks) we departed,* 1.7 and at Midnight arrived at Vncliseer, the most Northern Extent of the Province of Guzerat (after the old ac∣count) where Custom is exacted, a Bar of Thorns being stuck into an high Gate, opposing such as are to pay at each end of the Town. Here we slept at our Broker's House, and at Sun-rise proceeded over delicate Medows to Broach-River, where round about it is all Cam∣paign; betwixt where, we met more than Five hundred Oxen laden with Salt for the Inland Countries; and betwixt Nine and Ten passed Broach River in a Boat; which is a broad, swift, and deep River, but choaked up with drifts of Sand, by reason of Rains forced into the very Channel, so that good Pilots are required, to steer clear of them; by whose directions good lusty Vessels are brought up to the City-Walls, where they are laden with Salt and Corn, to be carried to those Parts that are not so well furnished; here being excellent Wheat and good Cottons, of the Growth of this Country.

It is likewise the Thoroughfare to Lhor,* 1.8 Dhely, Agra, and Ami∣davad, which is the chief City now of this Province, as well as of Guzerat; though Broach was the Metropolis when Cambaia was an Empire, which was before the Portugals were strong in these Parts, who made way for the Mogul to make an entire Conquest thereof: But as to what concerns its peculiar History, it was dismantled, and the Walls thrown down, for refusing Passage to Shaw Juan's Army, the Father to the present Auren Zeeb; which, as appears by the Ruins, were very strong of old, being doubly wall'd and trench'd, into which Nin•• Gates still lead the way; wherein was an Heathen Temple, now converted into a Mosque, looking over a rich Plain towards another, a Mile from the City, the Burying-place of their Emperors, where is entomb'd Mahmoody, the last of their Sultans; whose Progenitors being Arab Moors, were not sprung from the Hea∣then Rajahs on the Fall of Ramras, but laying hold on those Divisi∣ons, came in by Conquest, and were the occasion also of the Mogul-Tartars being called in to assist the oppressed, who made not only Resistance against Nishamshaw, one of the three Treasonable Con∣spirators against Ramras, but a long while defended themselves against the Mogul, till unfortunately broke at the Siege of Diu, Sul∣tan Badur being defeated both by Sea and Land; he left a tottering Kingdom to Mahmoody, his Successor, who was afterwards vanquish∣ed by the Mogul, near the place where he now lies buried.

Nor does this place now yield small Advantage to the Great Mo∣gul, Customs being paid here,* 1.9 and here being a good Trade; though at present a stop be put thereto by Raja Jessinsins being lately dead, who set the present Emperor on his Throne, together with Emir Senda, and the Emperor's demanding the Treasury and Territories of the Widow; and her sending this Answer thereupon (the same almost in effect the Spartans were wont, among whom it was a say∣ing, Our Kingdoms extend as far as we can cast our Darts); so she re∣turned, Money I have none, but Swords good store: Which has brought all the Infidels into a Confederacy with her.

And the Governor of this Province,* 1.10 but a late Convert, and a kin to her, begins to make Parties for the Advancement of one of the Sultans he has espoused, to Dethrone Auren Zeeb, as he did his Father Shaw Gehaun, by the Assistance of his Father Emir Gemla: Whereupon the Mogul is engaged over Head and Ears in Wars, cal∣ling the Caun of Brampore to his help.

Which gives occasion to Seva Gi,* 1.11 and a Neighbouring Raja, the one to move towards Surat, the other to set upon Brampore; which had put such a Consternation on the Merchants, that at my return they were all fled with their Wealth, Wives and Families, not think∣ing themselves safe within the Walls of Surat; which are now com∣pleat and able to beat off a strong Enemy, would they stand to it: But having formerly felt the hostile Cruelties of Seva Gi, besides the present Governor being a better Politician than Warrier, has hitherto only Mulcted the Banians to cast a Crust before this Wolf, and he still expecting the usual Tribute, descends now in hopes of the same Booty, Burning and Spoiling the Country about till they send him a Peace Offering; of which they having informed the Emperor now the Walls are built, that he Taxes them as much as before, and that his Musters are not half filled for the defence of the place, Morad Beck the present Auren Zeeb's Armour-Bearer in all his Wars, is coming with force both to displace him, and to succour the place:

Who took Possession in the beginning of May,* 1.12 and the late Go∣vernor parted well content with what he had gotten during his hold∣ing that Employment.

This Exchange brought some Blows upon Seva Gi's pilfering Troops, being encountred before the latter end of the Month by the new Governor's Soldiers, not without loss, some Cartloads of the slain being brought hither to be Interred.

The Rains are this year set in with that violence,* 1.13 that the very Tops of the Trees hereabouts are all under Water; and since the great Mogul by reason of these interruptions cannot go on to overcome the Pagans, he wreaks his Malice by assessing them with heavy Polls, that are not of his Faith, under his Dominions; and those not able to pay, are compelled to turn Musselmen, so that they begin to desert in abundance.

The Ra•••••• being over, great preparations are making to go against the obs••inate Pagans,* 1.14 the Emperor marching out of Juan Aboud 10000 strong, besides Ordnance, Elephants, and other Warlike provisions.

At the beginning of September the Judda•• Fleet,* 1.15 freighted with Religion and Pelf, made this Port, bringing Fifty Leques worth of Rupees in Cash, which is so many Hundred Thousand: It could not be improved till the Governor had released the Shroffs or Bankers, whom he had clapp'd up on pretence of Conspiring with the late Governor to Cheat the King, by Coining more Money than had been accounted for; but intercession being made by our President, they were set at liberty, for that our Company's Bullion was also coming from England, the Ships being arriv'd at Bombaim; and these are they that try and set the value on all Metals.

Our English Ships had no sooner left the Port at Bombaim,* 1.16 but that Seva Gi had posted several Hundred Men on Henry Kenry, a Rock in the Mouth of the Bay, on pretence of hindring the Syddy's Men go∣ing in and out; whereupon a small Bark, with an old Captain, be∣ing sent to demand their Business there, and he landing with his Men imprudently, were all cut off by the Barbarians.

After this Action,* 1.17 Seven Prowes and one small Ship (the Pink) were ordered to lie at an Anchor and block up the Avenues before the Rock; which seen by the Barbarians on Shore, the first fair Wind they Manned out Forty Gallies, at whose approach our Prowes fled all but one, which was easily vanquished; and the Pink feign∣ed a fear likewise, whereat they being encouraged, Boarded her with a terrible noise, who cleared her Decks with her small shot, and blew some Hundreds up from her Prow and Poop, and then plying her great Guns, on those who were Board and Board, sunk Four of their Gallies, and put the rest to flight; which made them more afraid than at the first onset, being glad to bear away with the rest; however they in this skirmish succoured the Besieged with Five Boats laden with Provisions.

A Month after they appeared again with all their strength,* 1.18 and the English being recruited with another small Ship, engaged them, and gave them the rout, following them into their own Harbours, where they got hastily ashoar and drew up their Vessels under some small Guns planted to secure them.

Whilst our Fleet were busy in this Enterprise, and left some Boats to shut up the River Tull, the Syddy came before Henry Kenry, where he lies with his Fleet; who, should he get Footing there, would be as bad a Thorn as Seva Gi.

In the mean while that the Mogul Marched against the Rashpoots,* 1.19 his eldest Son came to Brampore with a mighty Army; for all that Seva spoils the Country at his pleasure, knowing well the Sultan will not break his Forces to hazard a Battel till he sees how his Father speeds, that he may be the better able to promote his own Interest for the Crown: On which score it is unhappy both for the Husbandman

and Merchant, who suffer on all hands, being pillaged and plundered without redress.

This Year hath been filled with Two Portentous Calamities,* 1.20 the one Inland, a Shower of Blood for Twelve Hours; the other on the Sea-Coast, Mechlapatan being overturned by an Inundation, wherein Sixteen thousand Souls perished. And this being the sum of this Anniversary, I remain,

Surat, December 31. 1679.

Tours, J. F.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Chap. I.
• * 1.2

  The Author sent for to Broach.
• * 1.3

  Different Modes of tra∣velling in In∣dia, from that of Persia.
• * 1.4

  Letter VI.
• * 1.5

  Their Chariots for travelling.
• * 1.6

  Bereaw.
• * 1.7

  Uncliseer.
• * 1.8

  Broach-City.
• * 1.9

  What Profit to the Mogul.
• * 1.10

  Rana Jessensin defies the Em∣peror.
• * 1.11

  The Confede∣rates make di∣sturbance.
• * 1.12

  Morad Beck made Gover∣nor of Surat.
• * 1.13

  Great Inun∣dations by the Rains.
• * 1.14

  The Mogul prepares to ch••stise the ••agans.
• * 1.15

  The return o•• the Judda••. Fleet.
• * 1.16

  Seva Seizes Henry Kenry.
• * 1.17

  The Barbari∣ans relieve it.
• * 1.18

  Their Fleet drove into Tull.
• * 1.19

  The eldest Son of the Mo∣gul brings an Army to Brampore.
• * 1.20

  Two Portents.