A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. IX.

We go up in the Spring with our New Agent to Ispahaun:* 1.1 Two Irish Greyhounds sent for a Present to the Emperor: We leave the Agent there, and return in the Fall.

WE set out the Last of April,* 1.2 and reached Lhor the 8^th of May, which City was vehemently warm; through which Intem∣perance, whatever we eat, turned into Choler; for the Air being Hot and Dry, in respect of that we left at Gombroon, rendred the Bile thicker and sharper, whereby most of us fell sick of Cholera Morbus; and Three of our Company were taken from their Horses, not being able to sit them, and carried on Indian Litters: Others in Kedgways, or Wooden-Houses, one on each side of a Camel, tied like Panniers; by which Conveyance we carried two Irish Buck∣hounds for Presents to the Emperor, a Dog and a Bitch, as large as ever I saw; but they being cramped by this Contrivance, we were persuaded to let them loose, after we had conquered the Soultry Sandy Ways; but then it was as irksome to them to foot it over the Rocks and Stony Paths; for this, the Company had provided Shooes for them, which they found more troublesome than is reported of the Jackanapes's caught by such Apishness; so that at last they were left to their Liberty: These are such Carriages as their Women tra∣vel in, and those Passengers that wander the Deserts of Arabia.

—Queis tentant & arantes arenas Littoris Assyrii viatores.—

Several new Caravans on this Road have been lately overturn'd by Earthquakes, and all along they cry for Rain, both to fill their Wa∣ter-stores, and to bedew the Earth; which is most miserably parch∣ed till we come to Bonaru; in whose Plain, Wheat and Barley are newly mow'd; but the Oyl-Seed for Lamps were standing. In the Thickets along the Brooks sides grew Bitter-Sweet, and among the Corn such Weeds as choak ours in England.

Chawtalk is become famous,* 1.3 not only for its new and spacious Cara∣van, but for an Exploit lately committed on the Rhadars or Watch by half a dozen Highwaymen, who had certain Intelligence of a Prize of some Merchants having a great Charge of Money: Where∣fore they set upon the Rhadars as they were on Duty in the Caravan Gate, and beheaded their Captain, and the Caravandar, or Warden of the Caravan Seraw, and assaulted the rest unawares, slaying Eight more outright, but promised Mercy to the rest if they did not resist; Four more were wounded in making their Escape, and died of their Wounds, before they could gain Gerom.

Thus having secured their Prey, they carried it off in the sight of Four hundred Men, faint-hearted and timerous Companions, only one Armenian discharging a Gun; not one else, either Merchants or

Cowardly Drovers, daring to make any Defence, but resigned themselves tamely to their Wills, while they rifled and took away above a Thousand Thomands, which amounts in our Coin to Four thousand Pound in Silver, and are hitherto undiscovered.

I cannot but reflect on this Faint-heartedness with some Astonish∣ment: Only when I consider the Merchant is Insured by the Shaw∣bunder, it abates something of the Wonder; for he must restore the whole Sum to the right Owner, it being his business to find out the Thieves, and recover the Money.

Hence we came to Gerom,* 1.4 and by labouring in the Heat of the Day to get over the Mountains, we were persecuted with Diary Fe∣vers: In this Munsel we found Aven's Mother of Thime, Mullen, Ro∣man Wormwood with a Scarlet Flower, divers sorts of Thistles, espe∣cially the Holy Thistle, a Remedy for the now raging Diseases; as I am of Opinion, Nature has provided all Regions with Medicines peculiar for their Distresses.

Coloquinta* 1.5 Apples grow like a small round Gourd on the Ground.

Here in the Gardens were the first true Beans and Pease I saw since I left England.

The old Caravan Ser Raw at Mocock Sugta is deserted by the Cara∣van Dar,* 1.6 who has shifted to a new one built by the same Hand as that lately at Chawtalk, and abandoned the declining one to Serpents, Chameleons, and Tarantulaes (which are not so venomous as in the Straits), Centipedes, and Scorpions, it lying an open Receptacle for all Wild Beasts.

The North Winds about the middle of May raised many a Whirl∣wind;* 1.7 and before we came to Caifar, we found a sensible Alteration from scorching Heat to a searching Cold; by which Change, our Garments that before hung loose about us, are gathered together to wrap us close; for all which, few escaped without complaining of a sudden Pain in the Joints; and many were incident to putrid Fevers, who had indulged too largely on Raw Fruits.

This sudden Mutation of the Air,* 1.8 brought not only on Mankind, but Beasts also, Catarrhs, and Defluctions of all sorts; to wit, from Hot and Moist (whereby we were bedew'd all over with Sweat) into Hot and Dry in the Day, and at Night Cold and Dry, by rea∣son of Impetuous Blasts from the North East, by which the Pores being shut, the inclosed Humours are put into a Fluor; there being not a Man among us, nor hardly an Horse, but ran freely at the Nose: Here, as the Air varied, we left off drinking Rain-Water; which might have some Influence upon us, it being preferred before all others, as having the Sun and Ocean for its Parents: The River-Water here is muddy, and is often carried under Ground by Pits, wherefore it passes not, without leaving some Putrefaction behind; but the most indigested is Well-water, which is wholly deprived of the Sun.

Nor must we slip without Remark what happen'd in our Winter-March; as we there carried the Winter with us, so now we bring the Summer; for Harvest is beginning every where, where we arrive: Though here the Barley be mowing, yet the Wheat stands, to en∣dure a farther ripening, being kept back by the Chill Winds, which

still attend us; whereby we found Fevers of all sorts (except Pe∣stilential) at Siras; Rheums distilling from the Head, Falling down of the Ʋvula, Aches and Pains, Hoarseness, and violent Coughs; as Hypocrates foretold from this Quarter, 5. Aph. lib. 3. Si autem Aquilo terram perflat; if the North-wind blows on the Earth (which it has done a long time) it brings Colds, Swelling of the Face, Sore Throats, difficulty of Breathing, Stitches, and Pleurisy; the Body is bound, and Urine flows, with cold shaking, which are constantly to be ex∣pected while this Wind rules.

The Water of this Place also contributes to the Endemial Distem∣pers,* 1.9 for it is weightier than other, which by Experience is found to offend the lower Belly, or Hypochondria, breeding Obstructions, and the Ills arising thence; nor can I excuse that destructive Custom of drinking Ice with their Liquors; which the Old Gentleman takes notice of to be of no good Consequence; Aph. 24. lib. 4. Frigida, cujusmodi sunt Nix; Cold things, such as Snow and Ice, are Enemies to the Stomach and Lungs; and so on: On which the Learned and Skilful Heurnius makes this Paraphrase,

Those People that use these, are troubled with Swellings in their Throats (as on the Alps), are afflicted with Catarrhs, and live not long.

But the most per∣nicious of all is the cramming themselves with much Fruit; which is a Temptation hardly to be denied, where such Plenty and so Ex∣cellent are offered; however, they fill the Body with crude and re∣bellious Humours.

From all which therefore to come home to what concerns us, who had undergone some part of a Southern Winter (if it may be so called, at Gombroon), the Author of Salt Phlegm, the subsequent Spring entring with the North Winds, which are Dry, made us re∣tain that Phlegm; by which means we are followed by pertinacious and continued Fevers, as well as those that accompany Catarrhs, from the Intemperament of the Spirable Parts, whereby the Hu∣mour expressed from the Brain, distills upon the Lungs, by translati∣on of Evacuation from the Habit of the Body, where it was wont to perspire; but now those Channels being stopt, it drops from the Head, to the disturbance of the whole Frame. This Comment relates only to us; for the Natives make light of such things as we call Colds, though they are affected with them this Season, but not to so high a degree as we; for they eat and drink rather the more for them, and slight them at this time of the Year, but towards the Winter Quarter they are more cautious. I must confess it was al∣ways my Opinion, Colds were not hurtful, so long as they keep within the Bounds of a simple Cold, but rather a means to rack off the Impurities from the Blood, as the Fermentation of Wines is of the like Advantage to them; but when instead of clarifying it con∣founds the Humours, it is then to be taken care of, which daily Experience teaches it transgresses often; as almost all our English being now down, can witness.

The 29^th of May,* 1.10 the Agent, weary of these uncertain Turns of Weather, proceeded to make Trial of more steddy at Ispahaun; but most of the rest being sick, and the Father Visitador of the Carme∣lites, a Spaniard, and a good Scholar, having been long grieved

with a continued Fever, and finding no Relief from the Country Physicians, persuaded the Agent to leave me at Siras, which he com∣plied with, perceiving an urgent necessity on the part of the English.

In which Stay I fell sick my self,* 1.11 after the Father was recovered; and before I was got up (for this Sickness had well nigh cost me my Life, being one of these peevish Fevers), a great Saint, because Rich and one of Mahomet's Kindred, prevailed with the Father, who he heard was restored to his Health by my means, and their Convent being seated here by his Permission (he being Treasurer of the Pro∣vince, and as wealthy, though by unjust means, as any in the Em∣pire, next the Sophi), to speak to me to give him a Visit, being laid up by Debaucheries both of Wine and Women.

The Respect I had to the Padre, made me yield to be carried to his Court in one of his Palenkeens or Chairs, at a time I was more fit to be kept at Home and in Bed; for that all the Armenian Chri∣stians, as well as Foreign, seemed to be concerned, not out of Love, but fear of this powerful Man to mischief them: Whereupon my Attendance is engaged, and a Million of Promises, could I restore him to his Health, laid down from his Wives, Children, and Rela∣tions, who all (with the Citizens, as I could hear going along, pray to God that the Hackin Fringi, the Frank Doctor, might kill him) play'd the Hypocrites, wishing his Death; the first to com∣pleat their Expectation of what he might leave them, the other for his being a Plague to them; as it proved after his Recovery, for they performed as much as he, dismissing me with a Compliment, and no other Reward.

After my Strength came again,* 1.12 though this Blade had provided for my Diversion at his Summer-houses, (which are built (as the en∣slaving Friars do on Penances their most stately Buildings) by his usurped Authority, of the Obligation they had to serve him, as Ma∣homet's Kindred, and the meritorious Tye he had on their Conscien∣ces that way, by which means the Emperor has not more stately Palaces;) yet I refused his Offer.

Tarrying here from the 23^d of May till the 6^th of July, I am ca∣pable of giving some Account how the Air proves so fatal to Stran∣gers: It seems to enjoy a Mean between Lhor and Ispahaun; not so hot as the former, nor so subtile as the latter; for which reason it would be generally more healthy, were it not for these North-Winds, which set in every Afternoon, and continue till the Sun is a good height next Morning: Insomuch that in the space of Twenty four Hours, there is a Turn from the highest degree of Heat into the ex∣tremest degree of Cold, which infers the former Diseases (ad Aph. 1. lib. 3. 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, &c.) these last Three Months together mostly. After these are spent, the Heats bring Health, for no other reason but because they are constant; which lasts from June till Sep∣tember, when these Winds begin their Reign afresh; and according to the Observation of the 4^th Aph. in the same Book, In singulis an∣ni partibus cum eodem die modo caloris modo frigoris dominatu Coelum tenetur Autumnales morbos expectare oportet, hoc est, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: Diseases are unequal for Matter, Symptoms, Invasions, Judgments, and Determinations; which I experienced to be true all this time,

both in respect of Judgment and Ill Habit; for if it happen'd to be a Tertian, Quotidian, or Quartan, they were all uncertain; the uncertainty of the Season broke that Vicissitude of Motion and Rest belonging to the Humours, which interruption occasioned the diffi∣culty of their Cure.

And now taking the direct Road for Spahaun,* 1.13 I had joined with me an Armenian▪ Frenchman (a Wealthy Trader), a Dominican and a Carmelite Friar. Early in the Morning of the following Day we had forsaken Siras, we made Polygore, Six Pharsangs; it is a famous Cara∣van without Entertainment, by reason of bad Water; wherefore at Night we reached Aubgurrum, an old Caravan Ser Raw, better provi∣ded with Water, though the Name of the Place would intimate no∣thing less, being called the Hot Water; this is Three Pharsangs be∣yond Polygore.

Hence we entred a Fenny kind of Ground, occasioned by the Overflow of Bindamire; over which, Stone Causeways and Bridges were laid, where convenient, for half a Pharsang: In this Way, though we met not with Towns so frequently, yet we found the Plain overspread with Husbandmen and Shepherds, dwelling in Tents made of Hair-Cloth, at the End of the Plain of Persepolis, which we could discover plainly with our naked Eyes, but came not near it, cutting a shorter Way to Maijm, over a Bridge almost con∣sumed with Age, and Force of the Waters; at which Town, after sufficient Thunder and Lightning, it shower'd apace. The Harvest is backwarder in these Fruitful Valleys than whence we came from; but these kindly Rains plump and clear it for an hopeful Crop.

Two Days after, we took Imaum Zadah* 1.14 in our Course, where Ma∣stick is made; the Mountains hereabouts are productive of Wines. Imaum Zadah was another of their adored Prophets or Successors to Mortis Ally, who lies buried here in a Neat Stone Sepulchre; all the Town therefore belongs to the Mullahs or Priests attending here, and is surrounded with a Wall, having only Admission at one Gate.

In the Medows between Ogoan and Asspass, we met with two Troops of stroling Shepherds, moving with their Families, Flocks, Herds, and Substance, with their Hairy Houses on their Camels Backs. As also huge Droves of Horses for the Emperor's Breed: But the most surprizing was to see Corn mowing and newly sprung up at one and the same time.

Arriving at Cuscusar as soon as it was Day,* 1.15 and having laid my self to Repose, a Courier, or Goloomy Shaw, from the Emperor, wait∣ing the coming in of our Caphala, to press the best Horse he could lay his Hands on, seeing my Sumpture-horse come in, seized it for the King's Use; which alarmed the whole Caravan Ser Raw, desiring my Servant to wake me, and inform me I was in danger to lose my Horse, and withal beseeched my Protection for theirs, some of them being high priz'd: The thing was new to me, nor did I under∣stand till then my Authority; for none of them durst oppose a Chu∣per or Horse-Post sent from the King on an Errand (which Privilege is granted only to Europe Nations), they being wholly at the Devo∣tion of their Sovereign, (Foreign Ministers with their Retinues be∣ing exempted); but seeing me refractory to his Proceedings, he

came to me full mouth'd in the King's Name; I returned Answer, in that Name I refused to obey him: He persisting in his Demands af∣ter it was made known who I was, the Servants and People there were ready to beat him, had I encouraged them; I bad them only ••inder him from taking any manner of Beast belonging to them, and do no manner of Violence to him. He finding no good to be done with me, began to terrify the Caphala Bashee and his Crew; but I undertaking their Quarrel, he departed, not without some bouncing Curses in the Turkish Language, finding himself defeated of his ex∣pectation, and was content to make the Villages find him one; which indeed he should have done at first, had he not hoped to have been brought off by their mollifying him with Gilt; but missing that End, he went away with Shame and Fury, while I staid gratu∣lated with the Thanks of all the Travellers, and on the 19^th of July was handsomly conducted by them into Spahaun.

For the defect of Rain-water this Year,* 1.16 this Woody City suffers, the Trees decay, the River is dried up, Corn is scarce, and a general Drought invades all things, so that a Famine is mightily dreaded: For to supply these Wants, Well-water is made use of; which not being so familiar, by its deadly Coldness defrauds both Men, Brutes, and Plants, of their Natural Nourishment; whereupon Diseases ensue.

Nor is the winding Quarter of the Year less contributing, the Ra∣ging Dog having not only shewed his Teeth, but bit hard, the latter part of August passing into Autumn with unsteady Heats and Colds; introducing sore Eyes, Lasks, spitting of Blood, dejected Appetite, ill Concoction, Fistulaes in Ano, Leprosy, St. Anthony's Fire, creep∣ing Ulcers, Tetters, Morphew. Last Years Honour is not paid to this, for the Trees every where shed their imperfect Leaves, not bringing their Fruit in due season; so that the Autumnal Tribute falls short, the Summer going out without bringing things to Matu∣rity, by reason of the too hasty approach of the blustring Fall; though the Skies clear up to a Misfortune, whereby 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, from the Summers Heat, and dry Autumns, Dysuries and Stranguries among Children, Hyp. Aph. 4. Sect. 3. as also Empyemaes.

This notwithstanding,* 1.17 we are tempted at the Fame of one of the Emperor's Gardens, called Heste Behest, i. e. Paradise upon Earth, in Imitation of Cosroes, their former King, to make a pleasant Pilgri∣mage: It is a sweet Place doubtless, were it cloathed with its Glory; but as it is, it is a Rich Piece; the Summer-house in the middle is sa∣luted by two Channels, in which are Ships and Boats to represent a Naval Scene of War; Swans and Pelicans find here their diversion; the Summer house is built entirely of polished Marble, the Arch of the Cupilo is Inlaid with Massy Gold; upon the Walls are depainted the famous Actions of their Heroes; the Tank in the middle is all of Silver, the Posts are stuck with Looking-glasses, reflecting the Po∣stures of the Body, and the Figures of the whole Fabrick; an Hemi∣spherical Turret presses on Four Pillars, which are the main Sup∣porters.

For all this Excess the Poor do murmur,* 1.18 who have not any Care taken for their Subsistence; and not only the Inferior Rank, but

the Patricii, begin to exclaim against the Negligence of the Govern∣ment, while those who should provide for them in this Exigency, (from Provinces blessed with more Increase) instead thereof squander or sell abroad what should be applied to their Maintenance at home. In these Straits they find Pretences to cast an Odium on the Divan or Council; and to that purpose have recriminated the Chief Favourite at Court, laying to his Charge not only the Miscarriage of his Ma∣ster, but the effeminating and debauching him with Wine and Women, and enervating him by Witchcraft, (he being neither able to Stand or Ride); and for Proof of this latter, they had taken from his Surcoat a Paper wrote in the Hebrew Tongue, full of Magick: Which whether true or false, half a dozen Jewish Levites, accused as Accessories, were ripped open; but not confessing in their bitterest Torments, any thing against the Steward of the King's Houshold, he was again received into Grace, and intrusted with the Manage∣ment of Affairs; they having no Redress by this Complaint, but ra∣ther a Continuation of their Miseries, a sad Cry for Want of Bread continuing.

Although the Emperor espoused this Great Man's Cause,* 1.19 at once to assert his own Authority, and skreen him from the Fury of his Persecutors; yet another Menial Servant in Disgrace never recover∣ed, till he had given full Satisfaction to his Revenge; viz. his Chief Physician: He being dismiss'd the Court, lived in Repute some time in the City, till the Emperor discarded his Chamberlain; when being informed that this imprudent Physician was entertaining at a Feast the Eunuch he had turned out of his Service, sent a Messenger to call his Physician; who supposing it was to be readmitted, spruc'd himself, that he might be the better accepted before the King, and went on chearfully, till coming under the Palace-Gate he saw a Rope prepared to tye him up; which was the Reward he received for his Unadvisedness.

Amidst these Distractions and Heats, it was no time for our Agent to move for an Audience; and the Time of Shipping drawing on, it was convenient some should appear at Port; whereupon I am again commanded to Gombroon, the Agent staying for the Benefit of the Air, as well as to watch a Time to appear before the Sophi; which was a thing of great Difficulty and Expence to the Company, by reason of the several Officers of different Interests, employed as Instruments to procure it, besides the little Leisure the Emperor af∣fords himself for Business; it seldom costing less than a Thousand Thomands in Fees and Presents. The Irish Buckhounds brought up for that end, were admired and talked of by all, and represented to be as big as Camels; and though they were young, proved swift Creatures, I seeing the Bitch in our Journey turn an Antelope, which none of their Hounds ever came near; and had the Dog been yare, no doubt but they had seized it.

The Rarity of them is a thing of Moment for the Emperor's De∣light;* 1.20 nor may we be less assured of the Terror they strike on their Fancy, when I shall relate what passed at Mussaferry in the Caravan Ser Raw there, as they were bringing up to Spahan: The Dog, which was the biggest, and at other times less voracious, and better con∣ditioned

than the Bitch, being let loose, rambled about the Caravan for what he could get to satisfy his Hunger; whilst an Hodge (one of their Pilgrims to Mahomet's Tomb) who was at his Devotion on the most conspicuous place of the Ser Raw (they loving to be seen of Men), had placed a Bowl of Buttermilk tempered for his Tooth, ready by him, to fall to after his Prayers; he bowing his Face to the Ground, as their Custom is to worship, and there lying prostrate: The Dog scenting the Bowl, mounted the Quadrangle, and clap∣ping one Leg on the Neck of the Hodge, kept him in that Posture, while he had made cleaner Work than the Pilgrim, who for fear durst neither stir nor cry out, lest he should provoke so terrible a Monster to devour him; but silently passed by both the Affront (for if a Dog touch them they are Nigess, i. e. defiled) and the Loss; while in the mean time it was occasion of much Laughter to the whole Caravan Ser Raw, to behold the Man of lofty Thoughts of his own Purity, thus handled by the Beast, and none offering to step in to his Rescue, till we had called him off; for which the Hodge thought himself obliged to return us Thanks, for delivering him from so great danger.

At Moxutebeggy,* 1.21 as we were returning to Gombroon, we met with one of the Robbers (or one apprehended as one of them) that so boldly set upon the Caravan at Chawtalk, being under a Guard of Soldiers, pinion'd, and loaded with Chains: He is a long-hair'd Black, of the Province of Ketchemacroon, formerly Hyrcania, lately reduced by the Valour of the now-imprison'd Caun of Siras: They are carrying him to Ispahaun, to receive his Sentence and Judgment from the Emperor; it being an Enterprize of that Fame, and so much in every one's Mouth, that the Punishment is to be as Exemplary, as the Fact Notorious. Some people more than whisper, as if the ne∣cessitous Caun of Bunder were not only an Abettor, but an Accom∣plice in this Villany: But a Man had as good be out of the World, as lye under the Scandal of an Ill Name.

In this Passage the Evenings and Mornings were so intensely Cold, as to fix Icicles to our Metarrhaes, as they hung under our Horses Belly; although from Nine in the Forenoon until Three in the Af∣ternoon, it was extremely Hot.

When we left Spahaun; Cotton had just broke the Cod, and an imperfect sort of Barley, sown only to soil their Cattel, was crept out of the Hose, being as Green as Grass; but as we drew nearer Siras, all was mowed, and the Vintage being over, they were left common to the Cattel, who fatten on these Shrubs; so that what once tickled the Spleen of a Philosopher, might here hourly give him the Diversion, Thistles being their choicest Fodder.

The Forerunners of the approaching Cold are the Colums,* 1.22 who fly in Flocks daily over our heads; these, impatient of the Extremity of Heat or Cold, take now their Flight towards the Warm Coun∣tries, and when the Ram ends his Reign, return to their Northern Quarters. Bartholin Junior relates something of the Swan, agree∣able to what I observed in India of this Bird, concerning the Aspera Arteria, from whence is conceived the reason of its obstreperous and loud Note: His Words are these, Diversum tamen esse situm in

Cygno & plane singularem; longior enim cum sit, in sterni capsulam in∣curvo flexu se insinuat, moxque ex fundo capsulae sursum regreditur & claviculis ascensis ad thoracem se flectit, &c. De fistula pulmonari verba faciens. It's of a different Make from other Fowls, and is wound up, as has been said, in the Breast-bone as in a Case, sometimes single, sometimes double, like a writhen Trumpet; they have long Necks, and long Feet, of an Ash-Colour, and great Bodies as large as a Wild Turky; their Flesh but course.

The latter end of October we departed from Siras, not before my Customer the Siad had sent for me, to desire those Medicines where∣with he had been so unexpectedly recovered: I delay'd going to him till I was certain the Caphala was out of the City, when waiting on him I reaped the same fair Promises and Expressions I had done be∣fore; wherefore I told him my Physick was packed up, and my Ser∣vant gone with the Caphala; he told me he would send a Couple of his trustiest Domesticks, which were a Priest and another, to the end of the Munsel, which I told him he might do: At my Return to the Factory, there being present a Number of Christians and others to attend our Motion out of the City, most thought I had received a Rich Reward, therefore they demanded how I had sped? I answered, As I had before; at which one that knew the Temper of the Man, replied in Linguo Frank, Foi multo ben ill non tenho terardo voso Chapeo; It was very well you came home with your Hat, and that he took not that off your Head: However, at the end of the Munsel I was not at Leisure to speak with his Messengers, who understanding the reason, had Ingenuity enough to blush at their Master's unhandsome dealing with me.

This Varlet, of the Race of Mahomet, two or three days before our Arrival at Siras, at the Funeral of one of his Wives, sent Fifteen hun∣dred of his own She-Slaves to attend her to the Grave, out of his own Family; so superfluously abounding is he in all manner of Luxury.

We came into Siras with frowning Weather:

Horrida tempestas Caelum contraxit & imbres.

But parted thence with a suitable Remainder of Autumn; for the Grapes were in the Press, and the new Wines in the Ferment, yet the Pomgranats were on the Trees, nor was the Fall of the Leaf set in: In the Fields were Millet, hurtful to Pullen, but Food for the Poor for Bread; in the Garden, Wall-Flower, and Violets, Garden Mallows, and Crocus: For all that, at Night the Cold was severe; the reason whereof (besides the length of the Nights) is, the Moun∣tains about Siras are rather Stony than Sulphurious; for which cause we find the Winds blow as sensibly as at Spahaun; whence may be collected, that the Seasons depend not so immediately on the Sun and its Motion, as from the Specifick Determination of the Winds, the Aspects of the Stars diversified, the Innate Quality of the Coun∣try, and peculiar Site in respect of the Heavenly Bodies. As for the difference of Stars, none here could be observed, distinct from those in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Temperate Zone, by reason of the indeterminate Horizon, every where occasioned by the interfering Mountains.

The Crows here are like our Royston Crows, Grey on their Backs and Wings;* 1.23 at Jerom their Beaks and Feet are as Red as Vermilion; where also at our appearance Barley is ripe, and new Barley sow'd; and as we travelled, we now and then let fly an Hawk at Hoberaes, a Bird larger and of the same Colour with our Kites; at first being brought to the Ground by the Hawk, it parries, and makes some false Shew of Defence, brisking up its Plumes about the Neck, as a Cock does when going to engage; but the Controversy is soon deci∣ded, after the Hawk seizes it with his direful Talons, and instead of denouncing farther War, it resigns its self an humble Victim to the Conqueror: The inward Coats of the Gizzard are stuffed with Wormseed, of which it smells strong, which dried and beaten to Powder, and given with Sugar, is a Panacaea for an Asthma, or dif∣ficulty of breathing, and the whole Body is delicate Meat.

On the right hand of the King's Highway, between Siras and Gerom, at Derab, on the side of a Mountain, issues the Pissasphaltum of Diascorides, or Natural Mummy, into a large Stone Tank or Storehouse, sealed with the King's Seal, and that of the Calentures, and all the Noblemen of that City, and kept with a constant Watch, till at a stated Time of the Year they all repair thither, to open it for the King's Use, to prevent its being stole: Which notwithstand∣ing, though it be Death if discovered, yet many Shepherds follow∣ing their Flocks on these Mountains, by chance light on great Por∣tions of the same Balsam, and offer it to Passengers to Sale, and sometimes play the Cheat in adulterating it.

The First of November entring upon the Plains of Dedumbah, we found it all frosted with Salt; for the Waters from the Mountains mixing with the Superficies of the Earth, together with the Sun and drying Winds, incrustate; nor have I met with sharper Colds than here, for that the invironing Hills as well as Dales are full of Salt, and the Sun rising with horrid Winds presses the Ambient Air from the high Tops by its Circular Motion; so that it hurricanes us with such dismal chilling Gusts, that had we not been active here in cour∣sing Hares and Wild Goats, we might sooner have frozen than kept our Innate Heat entire; the Sun being constantly attended all the Day with blustering Weather, leaving a quiet Calm at setting.

From this Plain to Lhor, both in the Highways, and on the high Mountains,* 1.24 were frequent Monuments of Thieves immured in Terror of others who might commit the like Offence; they having literally a Stone-Doublet, whereas we say metaphorically, when any is in Prison, He has a Stone Doublet on; for these are plastered up, all but their Heads, in a round Stone Tomb, which are left out, not out of Kindness, but to expose them to the Injury of the Weather, and As∣saults of the Birds of Prey, who wreak their Rapin with as little Remorse, as they did devour their Fellow-Subjects.

Beyond Lhor,* 1.25 Water-Fowl that make not their Abode on the Sea, are seldom seen, for want of Fresh-Water; nor do Hoberaes fly on the other side so far as Siras; whether for the sake of its beloved Food, or by reason the Subtilty of the Air may fail them in their due Poise, making them delight more in one place than another, I know not; as it is evident in the Nature of Fishes to p〈…〉〈…〉one

Water before another, as being better fitted for their freer Respi∣ration.

We set out of Spahaun the first day of their great Fast,* 1.26 which was the 8^th of October, all which time it was grievous to the Moors to Travel, because they might not eat, nor swallow their Spittle in the Day-time, it being denied the Muliteers, and those accustomed to Labour; but the Hodges, and those who lead a delicate Life, are permitted to eat; for which they plead their being unaccustomed to Labour; which exempts them from an Imposition they lay on the more hardy, not touching such heavy Burthens with the least of their Fingers: Wherefore the poor Mule-men made hard shift to get to Lhor the Morning before the Evening the New Moon appeared on, viz. the 4^th of November, when I saw the Old Moon go out on the Hills at Lhor, and the Night following, the Horns reversed, the whole Body or Circumference having only as it were a dark Veil or Curtain of Air drawn over it, that part alone which was Crescent, being illuminated.

But it was some Damp to their designed Mirth, when by too much haste to come to this Capital City, they perceived they had lost a Mule with its Lading, by driving in the Dark all Night; whereupon I was employ'd to inform the Caun, who immediately dispatched the Rhadary in quest, and before Night restored the Lading, which was Shagreen Leather, such as they make their best Boots of, but the Mule was found dead under its Burthen, strayed a little way out of the Road; such Care is there taken to satisfy Merchants.

This Night passed with great Rejoicing among the Musselmen, and retarded us three Days, before we could make our Muliteers settle to their Gears again.

Here the doubtful Autumn inclines towards Winter, resigning the Dates, Citrons, Oranges, and Lemons, to the expecting Planter: Here grows the Emblem of Peace, the Olive-Tree; and though the Leafs are fallen, yet here is an uninterrupted Spring, all things keep∣ing a perpetual Green, though they observe the appointed Times of bringing forth their Increase.

And now we begin to enjoy Temperate and Shorter Nights,* 1.27 in exchange of Cold and Longer; and although the Goat is not yet ascended with his Constellation, yet I pronounce it Winter, since all Terrestrial Things move with a Pace as if they were just almost at the Centre of the Year; but after the Sun, carried by the rapid Course of the Heavenly Impulse, in order with the other Glorious Stars, has reached its utmost Southern Bounds, then a new Face of things re∣turns, and the alternate Accretion and Diminution render an Ever∣lasting Constancy; which with the admirable Frame and manifold Courses of the Celestial Spheres, witness and declare, That the Praise of so great and wonderful Works, are not to be attributed to Chance and Fortune, but to an All-wise Creator, who constituted the Uni∣verse from the Beginning, and will govern and preserve the same to all Eternity; who also brought us safe to Gombroon the 13^th of No∣vember: To whom be Honour now and for ever.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Chap. IX.
• * 1.2

  The hasty Re∣moval of the Agent, the Cause of the Sickliness of him and his Followers.
• * 1.3

  A notable Robbery at Chawtalk.
• * 1.4

  Diary Fevers.
• * 1.5

  Colocynthis.
• * 1.6

  The Taran∣tula.
• * 1.7

  Pains in the Joints, and Putrid Fevers
• * 1.8

  Occasioned as well by the Water as Air.
• * 1.9

  The destru∣ctive Custom of drinking Ice.
• * 1.10

  The Agent leaves Siras.
• * 1.11

  I fall sick.
• * 1.12

  On my Reco∣very I set for∣ward for Spa∣haun.
• * 1.13

  Polygore and Aubgurrum.
• * 1.14

  Imaum Zadah.
• * 1.15

  The Reproof of a Goloomy Shaw.
• * 1.16

  Want of Rain.
• * 1.17

  Heste Behest, Paradise upon Earth.
• * 1.18

  Murmurers a∣gainst the Go∣vernment.
• * 1.19

  The Steward restored to Fa∣vour, the Phy∣sician hang'd.
• * 1.20

  Irish Grey∣hounds a Pre∣sent for the Emperor.
• * 1.21

  A Robber.
• * 1.22

  Colums the Forerunners of the Colds.
• * 1.23

  Crows of se∣veral Colours.
• * 1.24

  Monuments of Robbers.
• * 1.25

  The Air as well as the Food, the Cause of Birds keeping one place.
• * 1.26

  The Old and New Moon visible in twelve hours time.
• * 1.27

  In Hot Coun∣tries to the North the Year centers in our Winter.