A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. VII.

Gives us a Sight of the Palace, and Rarities there; our Enter∣tainment by the French Artisans in the Emperor's Service; the Diversions of the Place, and its Product; and the Close of the Year, with its Seasons.

HAving been taken up thus long among the Armenians, we in our Return cannot but take notice of the famous Walk be∣tween the two Cities of Jelfa and Ispahaun: It is planted with two Rows of Sycamores (which is the tall Maple, not the Sycamore of Alkair) upwards of two Miles: It is called the Chaurbaug, from Four Gardens belonging to the Palace, opposite one to another; these take up all the Ground on the side of the Bridge towards Spa∣haun; on the other side, Seats of Noblemen and Great Ministers of State grace the Way up to the biggest of all, the Emperor's, which is at the End of this Stately Place, over-looking with a pleasant Pro∣spect all the rest up to the Palace-Gates, which are directly answer∣ing the Majestick ones of this Garden, they fronting one the other.

Over the Portal are curiously painted Men and Women in European Dresses:* 1.1 From the Entrance up to the Mountains, Marble Steps make the Ascent easy, which Nature had framed difficult enough other∣wise; up which the Limpid Streams are forced to send their Currents through Five several Channels laid with Marble, two at the feet of the Sycamores, which railed in two Foot pads, and ran immediately to the River; the other three emptied themselves into the Tanks, to which two Stone Causeways gave an Even Walk to Foot-men, by the middle Channel parting them, and at every Tank ascended or descended by Marble Grades, while the Horse-way was sloped for their Passage, entring on one side, and coming back the other; and every Two hundred Paces, Bathing-places of a large Circumfe∣rence receive great plenty of Water from the three Channels in the middle, into which the Marble Steps go down to the Bottom, which is paved with a cleanly Floor of the same Polished Stones; and this is begun from the beginning of the Chaurbaug, whence it descends to the River, and thence rises the same height to the End of the Gar∣den: In the Garden its self, variety of Green Trees flourishing, sweet Odors smelling, clear Fountains and Rivers flowing, charm all the Senses; nor is there less surprizal at the ravishing Sight of the delicate Summer-houses by each Pond's side, built with all the Advantages for Recreation and Delight.

In a Wilderness beneath this,* 1.2 are kept the Bears, Leopards, and Lions,* 1.3 belonging to the Emperor: And from this place up to the Palace Gate, are seen every Evening all the Gentry of the City Riding to and fro with Hawks on their Fists; managing their Steeds, making of Matches for Shooting, Hunting, Coursing, or Hawk∣ing; shewing their Gallantry in Apparel and Retinue, as well as disposition to Sport; being as much frequented as our Hide Park, and for as little purpose, only to fee and be seen, though the whole pretence be to take the Air.

Near these Ponds, or Tanks, are Coffee-Houses, which furnish them when they dismount, with Coho, Tea, or Sherbets; while they sit in State, and smoak Tobacco with their Attendance about them.

The adjacent Houses, Orchards, and Gardens, may be truly said to be in the Virge of the Court, many of them serving only for the Emperor to shift with his Seraglio, while the other Apartments are Aired; though the great Divan, or Council be always held in that place respecting the Midan, or Pomoerium, in the heart of the City; and the rest are but given during Pleasure, to the chief Officers at Court: Wherefore reckoning all these Dwellings as Appendices (which indeed they are) few Monarchs will appear to have a larger extent to hold their Court in, it being above a Third part of the whole City; which being granted, it will not be hard to imagine so Great and Absolute a Potentate should be Courted by all the World, and from all the parts of the Earth the wonderful Works of the Creation should be brought as Honorary Presents; nor can it be sup∣posed that so wide and spacious a Palace should not afford room for more than the ancient Ark, though not freight with Pairs of all the Species, yet more of several.

Whence it is, that here is to be seen more readily, and with less hazard, the Offspring of most Soils, except Human, and the Creatures of every Nation, rather than the Women of this Court, which are at less liberty than the Beasts, being Cooped up in their Sties, more strictly than these are kept in their Dens; many of the fiercest and untamedst of these being allowed only to breath in the open Air as Nature Ordained them: But not to tire my self, nor you with Parti∣culars, I shall only mention what were strange to me.

The first whereof was the Rhinoceros,* 1.4 who is a Cruel Beast, of a large Size, there coming from his Nose an Horn a Cubit long, (Brown towards the Bottom, Whiter near the Point) and Six Inches Diameter, whence the derivation of his Name from Pìv, Nasus, a Nose, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Cornu, an Horn; between this Ani∣mal and the Elephant, is a mortal strife, for which Nature seems to have armed it on purpose; it being a Four-footed Beast, with Three Partings of the Hoof, built on thick strong Thighs, but short, con∣sidering the great bulk of its Body which presses them; it is Tall enough to reach the Bowels of its Antagonist with its Horn, with which it Gores him to Death; nor has she given him less firm Bones to the Trunk, if by chance it should be crushed by the Elephant, de∣fending its very Hide with a Coat of Mail; wherefore before on the Neck and Shoulders, and behind in the Quarters, the Skin lies in Folds, like Fish Scales, over one another; the Face bears much of

an Hogs Countenance, unless the upper Lip, which resemble a Cows, and the lower, the form of a Whales; the Mouth discovers a mishaped Tongue, set about with Two rowes of Teeth; it is of the same Mouse Colour, and Tailed as an Elephant is, and Feeds of the same Fodder, and is kept facing Two mighty, but lean Elephants.

Whether the Rhinoceros be the Unicorn, I suspend my belief, since I have seen an Horn turned with Furrows and Ridges from the Basis to the Point, and Tapering like that of our King's Arms: But what Petrus Angelius relates concerning the Onager, or Indian Ass, can have no congruity with this, unless in respect of the Virtues; for though his Verses are most Elegant in his 5. lib. Cyneget, yet the description is very wide:

—Quos India pascit Onagros, Jam primum niveo corpus candore teguntur, Infecti Assyrio circum caput omne colore Caeruleis oculis, unoque in fronte superbi Cornu, &c.

His words in Prose are these;

The Wild Asses of India are as big, or bigger than Horses, whose Heads are of a Purple die, their Eyes Blew, the rest of their Body White; on their Foreheads they have an Horn a Cubit in length, whose lower part for Two Hands breadth is White, and the Top, which is sharp, inclining to a bright Red, but the Middle part is blood Red; of these they make Cups, out of which whosoever Drinks, neither Cramp nor Falling Sickness seizes them; nor has any manner of Poison any force, if that immediately before or after taking of the same, either Water, Wine,

or other Liquid thing be taken out of these Cups.

That this Opinion is taken up upon the account of the Rhino∣ceros his Horn, I can certainly verify, and that great Prices are of∣fered for those that are inadulterate; which they in India pretend to try by the Liquors presently fermenting in them; but notwithstand∣ing that Experiment they are often deceived by false Horns made into drinking Cups; thus much is true of the Rhinoceros, but the other part of it holds not Water; they come from Bengala, and are esteemed terrible and indomitable Creatures: And these must be (or none) what this Author calls Asses, there being no other Beasts in these Parts with but one Horn; and I am afraid he is mista∣ken as to the African Ass also, some Writers having called Africa India, which might have been urged in his excuse, whose Skin I having formerly admired when in India, you will easily be convinced it is no such Creature, it having never an Horn; Two Live ones were sent hither from the Abassin Emperor, as an Expression of Re∣spect to this Court; which, with other valuable Rarities brought by his Ambassadors, were lately graciously received.

They are as large as a Mule,* 1.5 but for the exact Symetry of the Lineaments, Zeuxis his Pencil would but faintly shadow over the lively Portraicture of their Skins, the ground whereof was of a light Ash Colour, over which along the Back strait black Streaks in Rows at length reached to the Tail; the Shoulders, Flanks, and Haunches

had the same waving towards the extremity of their several Mem∣bers; but that which was the oddest was on the Forehead, they had so many Geometrial Figures, like the Trapezium, or Square, in which the opposite sides are parallel one with another, so distinctly painted, as at last to fill up a black spot of a Diamond cut in the very Centre of the Face.

What Family to mix this Kind with, I am at a loss, unless they be a-kin to the Onager, or Wild Ass, mentioned by Xenophon in the Expedition of the Lesser Cyrus; the same we read in Pliny in his 8. Lib. and 4^th Chap. where he ascribes them to Phrygia and Lycao∣nia; but the Words of the before-recited Author have it thus;

The Onager is a Wild Ass, excelling at pleasure the swiftest Courser; whose Flesh differs not much from Stags Flesh, were it not some∣thing tenderer;

Arabia, says he, abounds with Flocks of them. Now nothing can be Tamer than these before us, and therefore un∣likely to be the Wild ones of Xenophon in Arabia, but are most assu∣redly the Breed of Africa; however Petrus Angelius Bargaeus comes pretty near the Mark in this, though not the other; however he is mistaken in the Place, as well as the Race of both:

At sonitu ingenti putrem quatit ungula campum Cornua, venantem quoties fugiêre; suisque Temporibus stant longae Aures, tum Corpora C••rvos Exsuperant; nec Lana nitet non albo colore, Mixta Nigro, ceu cum Nubes densantur opacae Et totum eripiunt oculis coelumque diemque. Nigraque per medios decurrit taenia lumbos Linda, quam clunes tractim comitantur adimos, Ʋtraque distinguens niveo sua tergora ductu.

The Horny Hoof with mighty sound, As oft as Hunted shakes the ground; Upon their Temples stand long Ears, Bodies bigger than Stags are theirs; A Woolly Hair, of colour White, Out shines the mixture of black Night. Along the Back, and down the Loins, A List of Black the White disjoins; The same accompanies the Haunch, Distinguishing the Flanks from Paunch.

Hence we were carried to the Ducking Ponds, where Swam Out∣landish, as well as Native Wild Fowl; and thence to the Aviaries, where Nature presents not only divers Species, but she has plaid the Wanton, even in diversifying those of the same Kind, either adding or diminishing, as she was provided with Matter; some Birds having more Feet, Wings, or Bills, than belongs to the wonted Frame of the same sort; others again, are deficient in the Parts usually be∣stowed on the Individuals of the same Race, some exceeding, and others wanting in Stature. But these being accounted Monstrous and out of the Road, I shall forsake them to follow a Couple of long

striding Ostriches robbed of their Feathers, which must be certainly very Glorious; they are of the largest size of Birds, wherefore by an Irony called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.6 as if one should say of a Giant, such an one is an Infant, or a Camel-Bird to be a Sparrow; their Heads, or Crowns, are perfectly Bald, a Palm in Circumference; which Pliny avouches in express Terms, Quaedam animalia naturaliter calvent, sicut Strutho Cameli; some Creatures are naturally Bald, as Ostriches; their Feet have Two Claws only.

Night drawing on,* 1.7 we unwillingly left these Spectacles, and fell into a lovely one between these Groves; for now all the Pride of Spahaun was met in the Chaurbaug, and the Grandees were Airing themselves, prancing about with their numerous Trains, striving to outvie each other in Pomp and Generosity; but come short of those Incentives to Chivalry that spur on our Gallants; the Graces Adorn our Parks and Malls Crowned with Virgin-Garlands, whose loose Garments wave with the flowing Wind, and provoke the Amorous Spark to list himself a Volunteer under those Banners; whose Maiden Faces bear the fresh Colour of the blooming Roses on the Lilly White of their natural Complexion, being wonderfully taking both in their Shape and Meen; Chearful and Free in their Discourse, but with an awful Comeliness; Facetious and Pleasant, but with an un∣spotted Innocence; enough to make Cato shake off his Severity and reconcile himself to Good Nature: Such Daphnes as these (worthy the great Apollo) alas! this Cursed Soil knows not the Blessing of, nor dare they trust them out of Doors; for their fiery Spirits (like Water cast on Sea-Coal) by the Society of such Nymphs, would render their Heat more intense by intemperate Jealousies.

After the Armenians had treated us,* 1.8 the French Artisans thought themselves concerned to do the like; that they might not be thought to live here in Slavery, but in a Condition to Entertain, not only their Friends, but to equal the highest Flights the Armenians could pretend to; and for the Honour of their King and Nation, we were called on St. Lewis his Day, which they Solemnized with fresh Devices of Fireworks, Illuminations, Interludes, and Farces; besides the Extravagances of Banquetting and Carowsing, Drink∣ing the Sophi's Health, and their Master's, after all the European Monarchs.

The next day,* 1.9 with the Noise of loud Musick, we were Invited by them into the Country to a Fish Dinner by the River side, as of Mullets, Crey Fish, Pickeril, and the like; for it is not for every one to feed on Lampry, Turbat, Goldney, or Sturgion, formerly held as dainty Bits by the Rich Roman Gluttons, as Apicius, Vitellus, and Lucullus. However here are Salmon from the Caspian Sea, and the Urchin (though not that admired one of the Ocean for its de∣licious Taste) this being not for Food but Diversion, under the Hedges and Trees of an Orchard by the Bank of the River.

The sly Nature and cunning Thefts of which Creature,* 1.10 though they are made famous by many of the Learnedst Philosophers, yet none more Graphically expresses them than these Facetious Verses:

Ergo ubi lapsa jacent sua quisque sub arbore poma Accedunt Laeti, seque in sua terga volutant, Denec fixa rubis haerentia mala supremis Exportent; implentque penum liventibus uvis; Quorum acinis quoties sentes onerantur acutae Perjucunda sui praebent spectacula nobis, Quippe humeros tecti sic ingrediuntur, ut ipsâ Ire putes totos avulsos vite racemos. Ah! tibi ne cupidos sensus tam tangat habendi, Tantus amor furem ut tentes arcere jocosum, Atque oculos durus jucundo avertere Ludo Eripere, & natis dulcem expectantibus escam.

Under the Trees where Apples lye, They come apace, full fraught with Joy; And rowling on their Backs, they six The tender Apples to their Pricks; Which carrying off, they come again, And with ripe Grapes their Store maintain: Whose Thorny Bristles fully stuck, A pleasant Sight it is to look, And see them march, lac'd o're with Fruit, As if they'd stole the Vine to boot. Ah! let not Covetous Intent, The Waggish Thief at all prevent; Or Surly drive him from his Prey, Who bears them thus to's Young away.

It is called by the Latins, Echinus, from the Greek, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, seu 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, because it contracts its self, being touched; by some Erinaceus, of which there are two sorts, and in our Tongue are called Hedge-hogs, the one with a Snout like an Hog's, and the other a Nose like a Dog's, both which are beset with sharp Thorns or Prickles on their Backs; and when they fear any harm towards them, gather themselves into a round Fuz ball.

In some few places where the Water was purposely pent in,* 1.11 we saw some Flocks of Water Fowl, which the Persians are skill'd, by their long▪ Case-harden'd Guns, to shoot flying.

The best Hawks of Muscovia are purchased here at great Rates, nor undeservedly, for they will strike down those Colum that are as big as Wild Turkies, and visit India in the Cold Season, eleven or a dozen one after another, as they fly in Trains like Wild Geese, and come down with the last themselves: Some of these we saw tried, which was pleasant Sport: They have some Hawks of their own, but they are of a Cowardly Breed to these, they teaching the Crows of the Country to be too hard for them; whereby it is familiar to give an Hundred Thomands for a right Muscovia Hawk; of which they are so great Lovers, that they seldom appear abroad without one of them on their Hand.

Some of them in their Swoops are so couragious, as to seize the Heads of Deer or Antelopes, and seating themselves with their Ta∣lons between their Horns, pick out their Eyes, or doze them with their Beaks, or stupify them with their Strokes; so that no Hunting in the World is like it, to see them soaring in a wide Plain where Herds of these are, (especially if there be these Water-pits for the Courses under Ground), at once to observe them guarding their Fronts, scampering with their Heads to the Earth, to avoid the tow'ring Enemy aloft; sometimes unawares to fall Captives into these Wells, not suspecting the Danger under foot, so much as avoiding that which threatens them over head, whereby they run into Thickets, or against Shrubs and Stumps of Trees, tumbling and leaping unadvisedly, so that Greyhounds being set upon them, easily overtake them.

Not by this Stratagem to derogate from their Greyhounds,* 1.12 which are as good as most of that kind, well-shap'd and swift, but shagged with long Hair, yet for all that are kept cloathed as their Horses in Winter, and all the Year besides rubbed, dressed, and covered with lighter Cloaths: The other Dogs are but Curs; they are Strangers to our Bloodhounds; but have many English Mastiffs in good Repute, which breed, and are very serviceable to keep their Houses, stri∣king Terror into the Assailants more than a Guard of Watchmen.

Here are no Parks,* 1.13 Forests, or Chaces for Sport, nor Meres or Decoys for Game, nor indeed Medows yielding Hay for their Cat∣tel, their Fodder being chopped Straw, and Barley their Provender all over the Empire; nor are here any Woods more than inclosed in Gardens, which is unfit for Building or Firing; yet of the tall Ma∣ple or Sycamore they have slit Boards for their Chests for Wine and Fruit; neither is there any Turf or Coal, so that Firing is more worth than Food, being forced to send Camels to fetch it many days Journy hence, as has been said at our first coming hither.

In our Return we observed several Tombs of the Ancient Gabers, after the same manner as the Parsies in India; and at top of the Mountains such Monuments as are on the sides of the Plain of Per∣sepolis, and one more eminent, in Honour of their great Champion, Rustam; but who this Rustam was, both their Annals and Tradition give an unsatisfactory Account.

On the 19^th of August an Eclypse of the Sun made us take notice of the Alteration of the Weather,* 1.14 which was stormy and tempestu∣ous; as well as the lamentable plight all the Mahometans were in, they supposing that Orb to be in Labour, and therefore by Pray∣ers and Incantations concerned at its Delivery, all the time beating Pots of Brass, making a Noise as dreadful as the Day of Doom: The Eclypse being over, the Weather cleared up again, as also the Madness of the People was allay'd.

All September the Mornings and Evenings were sharp,* 1.15 and the North-West Winds began to bring the Winter's Cold, though the Day-time was Hot and Serene; wherein we made another Excursion through the Suburbs on the farther side of the Court, to Jelfa, through new Buzzars, finer and better Arch'd than those in the City, terminating in the Squares of divers Noblemen, who had reared

them at their own Charge and Advantage; whereby they were more Costly and Neat, broad enough for two Coaches to pass abreast, though this City is unacquainted with those Carriages; nor indeed would they be convenient, by reason of the Narrow Streets within, and Mountains without.

These brought us a long way to the River-side,* 1.16 adorned with Dwellings of their Great Men, over which, to the Christian Town, lay another Bridge, inferior neither for Length, or Elegancy of Structure, to either of the former two, but much later built. At the Foot of it is a large Coppice of Willows, reaching a great way by the Water-side; here the Jelfalines met us with their usual Noise of loud Musick, and led us directly up to a Mountain, where the Emperors have digged a Grotto overlooking all the City, at their Retirements hither shading them from the Sun's Violence: This is fabled to be also Solomon's Throne, as we remarked before in Duccan; others pretend it was projected by Darius, but for what end, unless for a Prospect of this large place hid in a Wood, I cannot guess.

Hence in two days we compassed the two Cities of Ispahaun and Jelfa,* 1.17 taking more Ground by far than London and Southwark with their Suburbs, but then the most part is filled with Gardens; how∣ever I believe them not to be so populous: Yet the Frenchmen here avouch, That more Melons, Cucumbers, and other Horary Fruits are consumed in this Place in a Month, than in Italy, France, and Spain, in half a Year, estimating by Balance of Six thousand Ass or Mules Loads of them expended every day: For though they have good Butchers Meat and Poultry, their chiefest Diet is on Fruit; and if such vast Quantities be brought out of the Country daily, besides what may be planted within their own Walls, it may be concluded some Thousands of Inhabitants contribute to the devouring of them; though it must not be credited what is spoken hyperbolically by these Citizens, That it is the biggest City in the World, and therefore by way of Excellency called, The World.

It is not fenced by Walls, nor has it more than one strong Tower with Mud Walls, fitter for Butts for Bows and Arrows, than to re∣pulse a Cannon-Bullet; only serviceble at present to be the Exche∣quer of the Emperor, where are laid up great Treasures, the present Sophi being an intolerable Hoarder, beneath the Majesty of so migh∣ty a Prince, repining even at mean Expences.

But leaving him to his Covetous Humour,* 1.18 it remains only to take notice of the Season at the end of this Month, inasmuch as Bodies undergo herein the Autumnal Changes, which afflicts them with Pleurisies, Catarrhs, Hoarseness, Consumptions, Coughs, Ma∣lignant, Putrid, Intermitting, as also continued Fevers, under this Fifth Climate: To which the Aphorism of the Medical Divine has regard, when it says, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; Dispicere oportet regionem, tempus, &c. The Regions and Seasons of the Year ought to be enquired into; for the Alterations and Deviations from the usual Seasons are chiefly productive of Diseases; for from Hot and Dry, the Air now passes into Cold and Dry, and at last into Moist; for which reason the Persians begin now to put on their Furrs; and the Sky, which hitherto had been clear (except a little

at the Change of the Moons), near the middle of October, wears a frowning Countenance, and at the end of November sends some Showers, according to the Wish of Virgil's Husbandman, to fatten the Earth.

Humida solstitia atque hiemes optare serenas.

The Solstice of the Year let them be moist, The Winter clear, and curdled o're with Frost.

But before that Barren Time approaches, take a small Catalogue of what the other Seasons produce.

FRUITS,

• Apples.* 1.19
• Cherries.
• Jujubies.
• Mulberries, White and Red: On the first of which only the Silk-Worms are fed, despising the Leafs of the other.
• Pears.
• Prunellaes.
• Sebastans.
• All those we call Wall-Fruit, without that help.

HERBS,

• Balm.
• Burdock.
• Betes, White and Black.
• Borrage.
• Cabbage.
• Coleworts.
• Colliflowers.
• Cichory.
• Clary.
• Hyssop.
• Lactise.
• Mustard.
• Marjoran.
• Mallows.
• Minth.
• Nettles, Alive and Dead.
• Parsley.
• Plantain.
• Purslain.
• Pennyroyal.
• Pimpernel.
• Savory.
• Spinach.
• Thyme.

FLOWERS,

• Clovegilli flowers.
• Blewbottles.
• Jasmins of all sorts.
• Lillies of all sorts.
• Holyoak.
• Marigolds.
• Roses.
• Poppies, White and Red.
• Primroses.
• Saffron.
• Violet.

ROOTS, or Bulbu's,

• Asparagus.
• Artichokes, not in the Leaf as ours, but from the Root and Stalk.
• Carrots.
• Eringoes.
• Garlick.
• Hermodactyls.
• Liquorice.
• Madder.
• Onions.
• Parsnips.
• Rhadish, Wild and Garden.
• Rhubarb.
• Turnips.

SHRUBS,

• Berberies.
• Cotton.
• Coriander.
• Faenicle.
• Fenigraece.
• Sena.
• Rosebriar.

TREES,

• Sycamore.
• Ivy.
• Maple, the Lesser.
• Poplar.
• Ʋlmes.
• Willows.

Which I mention only to see what relation it has to what grows in England, and have set down thus to avoid Tautology.

To shut up therefore this Discourse, I shall borrow an Indication from the Tall Trees growing in a free Air; for from their bending towards any Point of the Compass, thence is collected from what Quarter of the Heavens the most forcible and frequent Winds do come, in what Region soever they blow; so Trees growing near the Sea-shore, incline towards the Land, but up-land in Persia they grow upright, which shews no constant Winds to have any such In∣fluence; though from the Autumnal Equinox, the North-West ushers in the Wet Weather, to make way for the Frost and Snow till Decem∣ber, yet it is often variable, and veres to the East, when it is pinch∣ing Cold, from January to the middle of February.

The first New Moon in October brings the Musslemens Lent of Ra∣mazan, which hapned on the 10^th this Year, and was the same day our Agent set forth for Bunder, leaving me sick behind. The 16^th of November put an end to their Fast, and began a Day of Jubilee; when the Leafs were all dropped off, and the Earth and Trees were naked; after which, Bodies indisposed sue for a Writ of Ease, and as the Winter is more piercing, they recover Health.

December locks up all in Ice and Snow,* 1.20 and constipates the Pores of the Earth that it cannot be tilled; the Tops of Mountains are all capped, and the Sharp Winds and Serene Air make it less tolera∣ble than in Great Britain, it being ready to cut you through; though then in the Sun it is so warm, that the Poor are beholden to it for their Stores: It seldom snows above three or four days together, but that is sufficient to load the Mountains, and to fill the Valleys for many days, before it be dissolved. And then it proves fatal to the Houses built only of Mud; for whilst they seek to secure the Roof, many times by sweeping it thence, the Snow melts at the bottom, and undermines their Foundations, that oftentimes they become mixt with the Dirt in the Streets.

In this Season Stoves are no less in use in Persia,* 1.21 than in the ex∣tremest Cold Parts of the World, by which they cherish the innate Heat, otherwise like enough to be opprest; which they do after a peculiar manner: In the middle of a Square close Room, they dig an Hearth Foursquare (not raised, as in our College-halls), over which is set a Square, Low, but Large Table, whereon is thrown a Quilt, and upon the Hearth is only set an Earthen Pot of Char∣coal;

all the rest of the Room is spread with Beds and Quilts, into which, whoever comes (after his Slippers are put off) he thrusts his Feet under the Quilt covering the Table; which way, though it keep them warm, is prejudicial to the Nerves and Brain, by rea∣son of the Mercurial Fumes arising from the Charcoal; being obli∣ged to use that for want of plenty of Wood to Burn in Chimnies; the Conveniency whereof they are unacquainted with, having ne∣ver seen any Chimney but what is in the English Factory.

Their Kitchins are all over of a Smoak like our Malt Kills, with such ventilating Tiles as they have, they rounding their Cook Rooms with small Furnaces, such as our Chymists make in their Laboratories, setting their Earthen, or Copper Pots thereon, not hanging them on Pothooks as we do.

And last of all,* 1.22 for a final and undeniable Experiment of the Pureness and Clearness of the Air here, let a Sword, never so well Polished, (and they have the best Damascened Swords) lie un∣sheathed a whole Night, or longer, in Snow, or Water; take it thence and never wipe it, and it shall not Rust: Besides, now at Christmas time the Grapes sold for Food in the Market are so dry they may be powdered; Carry these individual Grapes down to Port, and you shall in Four or Five days (short of the Bunder) sensibly perceive them to imbibe the thicker Air, and contract a Clammi∣ness; which proceeds from the remoteness of Spahaun from any Sea, Navigable River, Lake, or Fenn; the Caspian Sea being the nearest, which is Five hundred Miles off; besides its being environed with dry barren Mountains, whence come fine, rare, and thin Blasts; insomuch that could Bodies ever be in an Equilibrium as to their Temperament, certainly it might be preserved here rather than in any other place; for whatsoever Stranger comes hither with an Healthy Constitution, it is very lasting; and the Natives who live Temperately, witness a good old Age, with a continued state of Health; the Endemial Diseases of this Country being rather Acute than Chronical.

We must close up this Year with the sad News of the Death of our President at Surat;* 1.23 He was a Mecaenas of Honest Studies; a great Cherisher of Ingenuity; of a Generous and Free Access; Masculinely Candid; a Master of all Languages and Sciences, as well as Skilled in Military Virtues; as if Mars had undertaken the Protection of the Muses: But so envious are the Fates, that the best things are snatch'd away first.

To this lover of Arts and Learning,* 1.24 our Agent, now at Port, by the Appointment of the Honourable Company, is to Succeed, and accordingly he is preparing for his departure to supply that Vacancy.

And,* 1.25 as if it were not fit one Mischief should pass unattended; at the same time we had an Account of the Villanous and Barbarous Attempt of the Molagans at Bantam, on the English Agent and the Factors there (who were only supposed to Espouse the Old King's Quarrel against the New) as they were in their Boats diverting themselves with their Ladies, unawares were set upon and Assassi∣nated by Ruffians hid in the Flags and Osiers on the Rivers sides, and

all Cut off;* 1.26 not without some reasonable Reflections that the Dutch were Accessaries, being but false Neighbours to them at Batavia, having a jealousy of the English Trading for Pepper in those Parts, and for that cause have promoted Animosities betwixt Father and Son; taking this opportunity to send Forces to the Son's Assistance, but in reality to secure Bantam for themselves, while they have for∣ced the Old King up the Country, to expect his Majesty of Great Britain's Strength in vain, by Embassador's sent thither to Reinstate him. Thus watchful and vigorous are the Hollanders to get all the Spice Trade of East-India into their own Hands, that they may solely enjoy it without any Competitors.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The great Garden at the end of the Chaurbaug.
• * 1.2

  Chap. VII.
• * 1.3

  Wild Beasts for the Empe∣ror's Diversi∣on.
• * 1.4

  The Rhinoce∣ros, not the Indian Ouager.
• * 1.5

  The Abassin Ass mistaken for the Sabean Wild Ass.
• * 1.6

  The Ostrich.
• * 1.7

  The Flower of Spahaun meet a nights in the Walk belonging to the Palace.
• * 1.8

  The French Artisans di∣vert us.
• * 1.9

  River Fishes.
• * 1.10

  The Hedge-Hog.
• * 1.11

  Water-Fowl.
• * 1.12

  Greyhounds.
• * 1.13

  No Woods or Forests about Spahaun.
• * 1.14

  An Eclypse of the Sun.
• * 1.15

  The Suburbs.
• * 1.16

  A Third Bridge.
• * 1.17

  We were two days encom∣passing Spa∣haun.
• * 1.18

  Changes of the Weather.
• * 1.19

  A Catalogue of Plants growing at Spahaun.
• * 1.20

  Sharp Winter here.
• * 1.21

  Use of Stoves in Persia.
• * 1.22

  A pure Air without Soil.
• * 1.23

  Death of the President.
• * 1.24

  This Agent Succeeds in the Chair at Surat.
• * 1.25

  Artifices of the Dutch.
• * 1.26

  Chap. VIII.