A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. IV.

Of Siras, and the Ancient City Persepolis, and our Journying quite through Persia.

IN our Stay here we had Opportunity to observe Siras, not only by Fame, but indeed to be, second to none, except the Royal City, in the whole Empire: And in this Country, the Country which is pro∣perly Persia (extended from the Gulph to ••••••luchos, which parts Parthia from it by a great Ditch made for a ••••ndary on that Side to this Ancient Kingdom) it is the principal Metropolis.

It is delivered as a Tradition,* 1.1 That it arose from the Ruins of Per∣sepolis: Others will have it as old as Cyrus▪ who contend for him to be the Founder, for that the nearness of the Name intimates as much: But that he should raise it as a Monument, seems not so probable, who would not permit it at his Death, as that these People, devoted to his Memory, might on the Miscarriage of Persepolis, raise this in Honour of him, whose Remembrance might at once revive the Glo∣ry of the then fallen Monarchy, and bury the hated Name of the new Conqueror in Oblivion, who had sullied all his Lawrels by hearkning to the unlimited Revenge of a Prostitute, to lay the most flourishing Persepolis in Ashes, from whence, Phoenix like, this is supposed to spring.

And when we enter its Wealthy Markets, or Buzzars, Basilick Buildings, supported by Rows of vast Pillars covered at top, of which there are innumerable, large and splendid, abounding with

Rich Merchandize;* 1.2 the stately Palaces of the Caun and other No∣bles; the pleasant Walks and Gardens, Colleges and Temples, the Tombs, and Water-Courses; we may afflict our selves with the Losses magnified by Historians, but at the same time do Injustice to so valuable a Reparation, which, for ought I know, exceeds the worth of the other: And what adds to its Esteem, it is reckoned by the Persians an Holy City, wherefore it's Endowed with Schools and Con∣vents, with Allowance for Students; nor do they in any place ex∣cel, (for the Concinnity of Harmony in Chorus from the high Towers of their Mosques at their stated Hours for Devotion) these sweet Singers of Siras: It boasts therefore of its being an University; which it truly merits from the confluence of all the Learned Tribe coming hither for Education.

Their stately Gardens and Summer-Houses are out of the Town,* 1.3 whither resort those Invited either by Curiosity or Recreation; the most famous of which we Visited, under whose shady Bowers we were Feasted, from the Heel of every Day till Midnight, while we remained here, by the interchangeable Solicitations of our Christian Friends.

Among which,* 1.4 that, honoured with the Royal Claim, and there∣fore stiled the King's Garden, deservedly carries the Lustre from the rest, and though every one share in some Excellency or other, yet this comprehends them all in one, being a large Map of the whole: Here grow the loftiest Cypress-Trees in the Universe; nor do they want Bodies proportionable to their Height, one of which is said to be Set by Shaw Abas, their Beloved Emperor, Measures some Fathoms round: So addicted are these People to Loyal Heartedness, that what is Great, or Magnificent, they offer up as a grateful Testimo∣ny to perpetuate the Fame of those Princes who have deserved well in their Annals; for which reason these Trees keep the Name of To∣ken Cyr, even down to this our Age; willing thereby to Immorta∣lize the Grand Cyrus, transmitting an unalterable Tradition as lasting as Posterity its self.

These set in Order make Majestick Walks, under whose shelter thrive the Underwoods; which were they removed from the first Rank of the Quarters, whether our Countrymen would allow the rest to be Wilderness, Orchard, or Garden, would be a Question; since these, with the Water-courses, make the whole Design of the Perspective; in which promiscuously are included Philberts, Hasle∣nuts, Pistachias, Sweet Almonds, Cherries of both sorts, Peach, Apricot, Prunello's, Figs, Prunes, Grannet, Chestnut, Nectorines, Quince, and all those we call Wall-Fruit, without any Assistance: Oranges and Limes begin to flag here, rejoycing more where Cold is less felt; for though it is very Hot now, it has a short but severe Winter; for which cause, Roses, Lillies, and Jassemin, are Shaded under all these to defend them from each Extreme; and below these the Violet and Primrose, with what exalt not their Heads above the Grass.

In the midst of all a Banquetting-House, or House of Pleasure, with this Conveniency, that which side so-ever we cast our Eyes, most grateful Greens refresh our Prospect, and cooling Springs feed

spouting Fountains, till they unite in a full Sea, and thence are di∣verted into pleasant Streams, both for Diversion and benefit of the Place.

Here is beheld the Trembling Poplar, the Tall Sicamore, and the Humble Elm, contrary to what we see in Europe; the Pine and Ash are Natives of this Soil, by the diligence of the Skilful Planters; but out of these Enclosures, no Woods, nor Thickets of any of these accost us.

The Nightingal,* 1.5 the sweet Harbinger of the Light, is a constant Chearer of these Groves, Charming with its Warbling Strains the heaviest Soul into a pleasing Extasy.

We return'd back to the City, Lighted by Torches and Flambeaus over a noble Bridge, from whence the Street enlarges gracefully a good length, till we were received into straiter Allies, the rest of the Streets being mostly such, or else covered Buzzars; this Bridge serves only to pass over, when the sudden Showers, and Water falling from the Mountains, raise a Flood, at other times it being dry un∣der it, here being no River; though Water is not lacking every where there, flowing plentifully in Rills or Brooks, taking their source from the Mountains, with which it is invested on every part, except the South-side, which lies plain and open a great way.

These Mountains,* 1.6 as well as Vallies, are stocked with Vineyards, being disposed to bear good Grapes, out of which they press their Wine, and from the Wine-fat set it to Work in great Earthen Jars, from which it is drawn off into Flasks, and so packed up in Chests.

In this place only these Glasses,* 1.7 and some course Drinking Glasses are made; as also Rose-Water Bottles, the best Water whereof is Distilled here; they likewise rectify Spirit of Wine very well: Moreover this City has the noted'st Coppersmiths in all Persia.

It has neither Fortification nor Walls,* 1.8 neither Ditch nor Mounds, nor other Guard, save its own Soldiers, which are the only Bul∣works.

The Chief Magistrate was the Caun, Governor of the City and all the Province; but he, poor Man, lately by the King's Tyranny, is Deposed and cast into Prison, laden with Irons, as a Capital Of∣fender, for no other reason, but that of abounding with unheard of Treasures; all that he could not convey away the King Seized, and in his room has Nominated the Steward of the King's Houshold's Brother (who is Chief Favourite at Court) as Delegate for the time being, but not wholly Deprived the Caun, giving him hopes of Re∣lease, provided he confess his Wealth and consign it for the use of his Master.

Some say the King took occasion to quarrel with him for neglecting to send his Annual Tribute of Limes to the Haram,* 1.9 he expecting to be served first, with the Product of every Province for the Expence of his House, by the Governors thereof before any other; which as it appears reasonable, it is unlikely the Caun would have been defective in that point; but it is an easy thing to find a Staff to Beat a Dog; Facile est invenire baculum Canem ut caedas.

By which single Instance it is visible how it fares where Arbitrary Power bears sway, and how Monarchy is defaced when it takes upon it to be Circumscribed by no Sanction, and what a Monster it looks like when all Laws are swallowed in the Absolute Authority of Di∣spensing with them; by which means the Godlike Government be∣comes an insupportable Thraldom.

In all the Cities of Persia,* 1.10 as well as this, there are abundance of the Jewish Nation (known only at Lhor, where the Caun is an Hodge, by the upper Garment, marked with a Patch of Cloth of different Colour); Banyans also, and Armenian Christians, with Eu∣rope Roman Catholicks; driving a Trade, and exercising the Superstiti∣ons of their several Religions with freedom, being disturbed by none unless sometimes by the Bigotted Kindred of Mahomet; who presume on that account (knowing the Reverence every where paid to that Impostor) very often on open and extravagant Injustice, setting poor People at Work and never satisfying them; entitling themselves Lords Paramount, and all others by a servile Tie of Conscience to be their Slaves; which sort of People (though Cursed by all) must be appeased, or else all will be in a flame: Which sort of Behaviour of theirs, has wrought the most understanding among the Persians to a Diffidence of that Doctrine with its Author, they so mightily preach up, yet practise so little.

The Houses of Siras are Built with Brick,* 1.11 not Red, but better Hardned than they are, I mean theirs of the Better sort, not of the Common People, they agreeing with the rest elsewhere mostly, being composed of Mud and Clay. Pipes, or Conduits for Ven∣tilation are not so requisite here as in other parts, and therefore not so universal as in the Sandy Countries; here they are more Expensive on the Beautiful Adorning the Porches and Gatehouses leading to their Houses, taking care to Enclose them with huge high Walls, so that they are hid from the Streets; to which they are admitted by double Gates, over which are Folding Doors opening into Balconies.

Their Publick places of Worship are illustrated with Mosaick Work:* 1.12 Painted and Glazed Slates grace the outward Case, artifici∣ally disposed into Convex Towers, representing the bending Heaven about them: Panes of Glass for the more solemn Light, are fetched from Venice, Tinctured with divers Colours; the Portuco's and lower Walks shine with polished Marble, supported by substantial Pillars of the same.

The Midan,* 1.13 or open space before the Caun's Palace, is an Oblong and Stately Piatzo, with real, not belied Cloisters.

Taking our leave of this City,* 1.14 we were ushered out as we came in, the Armenians compelling us to take a Treat in their Garden ap∣propriated for the Burying of their Dead, where were many Neat Tombs; but the Oddest, because New, was one beset with Young Cypress Trees, and Trimmed to that advantage, that they stood like deep Mourners Clad with Sable Green; pretty Attendants by their Tapering Figure to so sad an Office.

On the outside of this City are Repositories for Snow and Ice, which they preserve to Cool their Wine with, and Sell it constantly in the Market for such uses;* 1.15 these are fine Buildings. Ice dissolved in their Liquors, is as prevalent, even among the Vulgar, as Drink∣ing Tobacco. When we had crossed the fruitful Valleys and Hills of Vines, we turned out of the high Road to Ispahaun, to a poor Village called Zergoon,* 1.16 Inhabited by Mulateers, in the plain of Per∣sepolis, Fifteen Miles distance from Siras.

From hence to the River Bindamire,* 1.17 or the River Araxes, (fa∣mous for its untraced Windings upon the Mountains, and sometimes under their very Bottoms, till by its rapid course it vents its self in∣to the Sea), were Twelve Mile more; which having passed, I be∣gan to revolve whether ever Alexander, the Macedonian Victor, had been over it or no; which because it is Recorded he passed his Army over Araxes by a Bridge of his own Building, I know not if that be proof enough of this being that River, or of his passing this place more than that; the Stream runs with a Torrent whereby it is unsafe Fording the River without such a Suppliment.

Though as if that were too Trite and Common, I cannot forbear without some Mirth, relating what I had from a Persian in this Journy, pointing to an Hill; There, quoth he, stands the Monu∣ment of a Miracle performed by Band Haimero, the Prophet who gave Name and Credit to this Plain, and consequently to the Bridge athwart this River, which is a thing beyond Human reach to effect, otherwise too mean to exact our Belief.

This Prophet was one of the Twelve Apostles, or Succes∣sors of Mahomet; nor was this Fact unworthy of so great a Title; for he leading an Host this way, after a notable descent of Rain, which caused this place to overflow, the progress of his Forces was thereby impeded; which he peceiving, thus bespoke that Mountain, March into the middle of the Waters Confluence, and lay thy self in that man∣ner, that there be sure Footing for my Host; to whom it readily obey∣ing, became an high Road for his Soldiers to pass over dry shod: But when after this device he had Ferried over his Multitude, it was told him an huge Casm, or Hell-Kettle was left where the Mountain had emptied its self; not being much concerned at the Accident, and meeting a Country Fellow who by chance had a Cheese, he cast it into the Well; which was not filled so, but that it gave occasion to the Satyrists of that time to Lampoon it in their own Language,

Band Haimero has Agger hau tauk k••onet As Colobe Painer has.

What wanting is to fill the place, Not from Band Haimer is, but the Cheese.

Band was the Epithet to the Prophet,* 1.18 which signifies Abstemious, a Virtue more admired than followed, and Haimero his Proper Name, wherefore both the Bridge and Plain, as well as River, by Boterus is corruptly called Bindamire, as appears by this ridiculous

Tale; which I mention for this end, that the true Appellation the Persians now give them, and their Reason for it may be recovered.

The Bridge over the River is very old, raised high by four Arches, in the middle a Watch-Tower for the Rhadars to look out on, to ap∣prehend such as shall by By-ways attempt to deprive them of their Customs, as also to be at hand to secure those that Travel the Road.

Unless sometimes they connive at Excursions for their own Booty,* 1.19 as this Day we had cause to suspect; for this Evening the Rear of our Caphala we had taken with us, being only Servants with Arms (the other coming more leisurely, kept the direct Road), were set upon twice; but finding them in a condition to receive them, they wheeled off in the Dusk, but with an intention to take us napping when we were in our Lodgings at Meergoscoon, Twelve Mile off the Bridge, smooth Way, full of Farms and Country Towns; among which Plain dealing seems most an end to be their only Guard; for they being alarmed by the Rogues that dogged us, rose immediately in our defence, and gave us notice of our Danger, after one of the Villains, on pretence to light his Pipe, had rudely broke in upon us, to discover in what Posture we were, who perceiving their Pains would be only Blows, gave us no farther disturbance.

However we were the more willing on this account to get up by the crowing of the Cock,* 1.20 to pursue our Journy to Persepolis, whose Ruins we had reached by Break of Day; when having compassed its Marble Foundations (being above, an Area of a large Extent, on the Plain an high Wall, giving some Pains to the attollent Muscles of the Neck, to give the Eyes leave to reach its Height), we clambred a spacious Staircase united some part of the Way up, when on each hand it led to the several Apartments two different Ways; at top were the Portals, and the Heads of the Columns worn with Age (damnosa enim quid non imminuit dies) which consumes every thing; whose Bodies were Corinthian, but the Pedestals and Capitals of Do∣rick Order, as might be gained from what had resisted the corroding Jaws of Time, hardly lifting up their Reverend Crowns, though of most durable Stone.

Being entred the Pomaerium of Cambyses Hall (if Faith be to be given to the most Learned of these Relators), at the Hall Gates we encountred two horrid Shapes both for Grandeur and Unwontedness, being all in Armour, or Coat of Mail, striking a Terror on those about to intrude; their Countenances were of the fiercest Lions, and might pass for such, had not huge Wings made them flying Gryf∣fons, and their Bulk and Hinder-Parts exceeded the largest Ele∣phants.

In this August Place only Eighteen Pillars of Forty remain,* 1.21 about Fifty Foot high, and half an Ell Diameter, of the distance of eight Paces one from another, though we could count the Twenty two Bases; which agree with the Persian Memoirs, who therefore still call it Chulminor, The Palace of Forty Pillars: These may be seen on the Plain a great way, and at present are the Residence only of the Tyrants of the Lakes and Fens, Storks only keeping their Court here, every Pillar having a Nest of them.

Nutrit ubi implumes peregrina Ciconia faetus, Ad nidos abies confita primo fuit.

Which may serve to contradict the received Opinion, of Storks abiding only where Commonwealths are; this always having been an Empire, and at this time is the most Absolute in all the Earth.

Beyond these, many Pieces and Scraps of Antiquity offer us a View, and great Colossus's supporting vast Giants, as if they had been Yeomen of the Guard in the Anti-room to the Presence-Cham∣ber, which was Eighty Foot Square, where on the Fragments of Walls standing, and over the Porticoes especially, were most curi∣ously cut out of delicate White Shining Marble, Men in Military Habit, like the Old Grecian Phalanx (if there be leave for Con∣jecture) encompassing a Monarch represented sitting on his Throne, with a Moving Canopy, such as the Eastern Kings have carried over them: On other parts Bucephalus, or if that please not, some Per∣sian Steed priding himself to carry an Emperor, or some Demi-god. Because neither Quintus Curtius, nor after him Plutarch, mention the reedifying this Palace either by Alexander or any of his Cap∣tains, yet I cannot let it pass without this Remark, That they are habited more like the Ancient Grecians, than Persians now are; be∣sides, the Hair of their Heads is hanging down, and not tied up, which is different from the Modern Fashion of this Country.

In this Apartment Eight Doors seem to answer each other, Two on each side of every Square; which Conformity is attended with extraordinary Elegance and Workmanship; the Roof seems never to have had any intervening Pillars, and whether the Beams were of Cedar, it is not so fortunate as to have a Voucher of its own Nation. Many other Parts declared Cost and Pains enough, but nothing more worthy Study than the Characters fairly impressed and engra∣ven, which would unfold the Truth of the Founders of this Build∣ing, were they as Intelligible as Legible; for they remain like the Hand-writing on the Wall (Mene Tekel), till some Divine Expo∣sitor interpret them; yet I must needs say, many of the Characters may be found in the Greek Alphabet.

This vast Fabrick is made bigger, by being joined to a great Mountain, out of whose Entrails were worn, rather than digged, Noble Caverns with Stately Sculptures, and wide Ponds of living Water constantly distilling from the Marble Rocks, either for bath∣ing or necessary uses: It is an admirable Piece, overlooking all the Plain, where we took this day's Repast, and over Head saw the Cornish of the Frontispiece embellished with the Royal Arms of the Persian Emperor, immediately on the Union of the Medes and Per∣sians into one Empire, which was a Ram's Head delineated as far as the Chest.

In the Afternoon we saw another of the same Make,* 1.22 answering the other part of the Palace, and underneath on the Plain took no∣tice of Two Pillars at a fit distance, the one for the Goal, and the other for the Starting-place of their Coursers when they run Races. Having thus finished our Perambulation, we descended on the con∣trary

side we came up, and found there Goats and Sheep grazing on the Grass between the Joints of the Pavements; but on the Walls of the Staircase (which consisted of an Hundred and twenty Stairs of Black Marble on each side, till they united to Forty more, which de∣livered us to the Plain) were the Portraictures both of Men and Beasts on each side, and more of this Ancient Writing distinct in large Panes; at the Bottom whereof our Horses waiting us, we mounted, and returned to Meergoscoon, not a full Pharsang from hence.

The following Day drove us,* 1.23 out of the same Curiosity, over se∣veral Branches of Bindamire River, to enquire for other Structures of the like Nature, of which these Mountains afford plenty, bating the great Area of Persepolis, which distinguishes it from these; but we did not alight for these, satisfying our selves to stare on them from beneath, they being fit only for Atlasses, or for Winged Folk to look into, there being no passage to them, appearing like Dens or open Holes on the sides of the Rocks, from their very Mouths per∣pendicular to the Ground: Only one above the rest attracted our Sight and Animadversion, reported and still averred to be of old the Court of Rustam, an Ancient King of the Gaurs or Gabers (the true Original Persian Race), whose Statue was of a Gigantine Sta∣ture, on as large a sized Horse, triumphing over his Foes at the Front of his Cave, with many Attendants clad down to the Heels, with Caps on their Heads (not Turbats) and their Hair loose about their Shoulders.

From whence observing frequent Numbers of these,* 1.24 I was apt to collect, that even what goes now for the Persepolis which Alexander gave leave in a Drunken Fit to be set on Fire at the Request of the Costly Thais, may be the Ruins of some Heathen Temple, having seen of the same Recesses among the Idolatrous Indians, which they still pay Adoration to, and own to be the Temples of their Gods.

But that that City might stand in this Plain, not only the recei∣ved Tradition among all European Travellers, but the concurrent Opinion of undoubted Historians, certify with all the probable Con∣jectures.

From hence under these high Hills we kept our Course, proving it to be a Wealthy Plain, stored with all Cattel, Corn, and Wild Fowl, by the plentiful Afflux of Water to the River from the Mountains, and Cuts from the River into the Plain, whereby it might be a fit Situation for the mighty Persepolis, as it now is for store of Country Towns, besides whole Armies of Nomades, or wandring Shepherds, who pitch their Tents with all their Families, wherever they find a Soil suitable to their Employment. Not far from whom were mul∣titudes of such Tombs as we met with at Bonaru Level, which perhaps may give some surer Account than that more Romantick one in ap∣pearance we met with there, of their being the dying Trophies of former Battels; though here wants not matter to countenance such Tales to those of easy Faith.* 1.25 For two Mountains shut up this hap∣py Campaign so, as if Nature had taken special Care of its Security; which as formerly they terminated the Territories of the contending Gaurs, by their opposite Position, that nothing could creep between

them unexamined, so it is not unlikely that these were the Strong∣holds Artibazanes defended against Alexander, when he repulsed him, and had put a Stop to the Torrent of his Victories, had not a Persian Rustick shewed him an unknown Passage by the Pylae Per∣sicae, or Postern-Gates on the back of these Mountains, which open∣ed a Way to his farther Progress, as well as to the ravishing this thus basely betray'd Country to the Lawless Rape of an ungovern'd Ambition. To conclude therefore from hence, That these Burial-Places took their beginning so long ago, as it would savour of small Judgment in the Affirmative, yet it may leave some ground to the credulous, that it is possible some as notable Fights might succeed, for the gaining such a Key to so Rich and Spacious a Valley, as well from time to time after Alexander, as that not a Century since, this Part remained almost unsubdued, till Shaw Abas the Great brought it to perfect Obedience, when there might be occasion for such In∣terments, if their Piety extended to such a Care of the Dead.

But these Field-Inhabitants incline me to think it their Work, being far from any Town; though the common Fame give it to the other Report, as well to aggrandize their foregoing Ancestry, as to cast a Lustre on the present Posterity. This may serve also to prove their Scythian Antiquity; for as the Worthy Mr. Sheringham observes, Sacae opiliones Asiam incolentes; that the Sacae were wandring Shep∣herds; whose Names, to shew their Original, he derives from the Hebrew 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, i. e. Tabernaculum, or Tent in English; from whence came the Getae, as well as present Persians, from their frequent dis∣burthening themselves by Colonies dispersed both into Scythia, so to Europe as well as Asia, where they first inhabited.

From Meergoscoon to this Strait is measured Twenty Mile,* 1.26 which finishes not this Stage, for now we were encompassed again with Rocks and Stones among the Mountains, (which we know whose In∣stigation it was to command they should be made Bread), our Provi∣sions being spent which we had taken for this Deviation; wherefore we were forced to march Twenty Miles farther, to Maijm, before either we or our Cattel baited; where we arriv'd before our Capha∣la we had left at Siras, they pretending they had lost their Way, but more truly lingred, not having us to spur them on; wherefore we were obliged this Night to make the Earth our Lodging, our Arms our Bolsters, and the uneven Stones our Feather-beds; which though we Travellers often do in this Journey out of choise, yet we found it disagreeable, because the Nights now were as intensely Cold, as the Days were Hot. In the Forenoon to the next Day the Caphala came, which created us this Day's Stay at Maijm, a Town where grows the best Walnuts, of the same bigness with the Spanish, and the choicest Tobacco Persia affords.

After a sweet Night's Repose, early in the Morn between the Straits of the Mountains, we traced the Source of the River Araxes, purling under slippery Pebbles, which no sooner removed, than the Crystal Water bubbles forth, by which means, though a little sup∣pressed at first, in Half a Mile's space it emits a Stream able to drive Three Mills, which notwithstanding were not forcible enough to restrain the impetuous Blasts of Heat pent in between the Hills:

Although on the other side when we approached in the Night, all the Cloaths we had wrapped about us, could hardly preserve the in∣nate Warmth, when the Sun had shrowded its self under the Horizon.

At Noon-day we overcame an high Mountain after a troublesome Luctation, this delivering us to another Golden Plain of Ojoan, gilded over with Ripe Wheat, being no more than Five Miles from Maijm.

This Ojoan glories in the Sepulchre of another Royal Prophet,* 1.27 which is well endowed with neat Dwellings and Orchards for the Mullahs, who take their Service by turns to officiate in their Priesthood, by loud Exclamations and Musick calling People to their Devotions: In this Mansion we were permitted to make our Abode this Day; which because it was so short a Munsel, and these Gardens so de∣lightful, I could not but give my self the Pleasure to reflect as well on those Plants we had met wild, as these more cultivated which grew here.

The Bitter Almond-Tree we met formerly in the Highways wild, if it may be called a Tree, and not a Shrub; the Body resem∣bles an Hasle, but slenderer, from whence come Stalks like Broom, on which sprout Leafs synonimous to our Privet; it brings forth Fruit in March or April, and delights in Hot and Barren Countries.

The Sweet Almond grows on a taller Tree,* 1.28 whose Leafs are like Ash, and ripen about the same time.

The Pistacia sends forth its Branches on high,* 1.29 and renders its Nuts edible in Autumn, whose Leafs are as big as a Walnut's, covered un∣derneath with a soft Grey Down; all these are covered with a succu∣lent Green Shell like a Walnut without, which includes an harder within, in the Shape and Substance we have them brought: Though I find them differently described both by Gerard and Lobelius.

The Capper-Shrub accompanies us in the Valleys from Caifer hi∣ther,* 1.30 and is encompass'd with Prickles something emulating our Goosberries; the Leaf is shaped like Purslain; the Seeds or Fruit, which we call Cappers, have a Cod not different from the Cod of the Major Cardamom, in which they are inclosed: In May the Flower is white and open, like a Sweet-Briar's.

The lofty Pine,* 1.31 the Top of the Woods, as well as of those float∣ing on the Main, is not so Tall in Asia as in Europe, though strait up to the very Top, and is not bunched till the Boughs aloft thrust out the Leafs to embrace the Woody Substance of its Cone-like Ap∣ple; the Body is scaled like the Palm-Tree.

The Peach by way of Excellence is termed,* 1.32 The Persian Apple; nor does it lessen the Repute, it far exceeding here what can be said in its praise in other Countries.

The Pomgranat is passing good,* 1.33 being the juiciest and biggest I ever met with, nor does any parallel them, unless those about Ba∣bylon.

Early the next Morning we departed from Ojoan, beginning to alter our Course, the Air being more moderate, crossing a River (by a Bridge) running the whole length of the Plain, in whose Bosom great store of Corn was nourished, it looking yellow, and fit for the Sickle: On the other hand, in the Meadows and Marshes

were Droves of Fat Cattle, and all things appeared with the same Face as in England; we enjoyed this Accommodation till we came to Asspass, four Pharsangs; it is a Village shelter'd by the Mountains on the North, from whence spring many Rivulets of Fountain-Water, dispersed among the Under-Grounds a little too much; by whose Exuberance, Flags, Reeds, and Osiers offer Covert to Wild Boars, and Habitation to some Water-Fowl.

Here a Countryman of ours is remembred to be Governor of a Castle (whose Ruins still are extant) for Shaw Abas the Great,* 1.34 in the beginning of King James the First's Reign; viz. Sir Anthony Shirley, who took Pay under the Emperor to defend this Pass: It is now inhabited by Georgian Christians, who are Tillers of the Ground and Planters of Vines, which are very productive on the sides of the Hills: They are Whiter than the present Persians, and of a flo∣rid Complexion, being Portly well-limb'd Fellows: Many of them have embraced the Mahometan Faith after the Persian Sect, being Vassals to the Emperor.

By the favour of the rising Moon,* 1.35 August the first, we brought the highest part of another Mountain under our Feet, it dividing this Plain from another Rich Valley cloathed with Green Grass, and therefore dedicated to the Pasture of the King's Breed of Horses, among which were Choice Ones of very great Value: We passed two Pharsangs to Cuscuzar, giving both Name to the Valley and Village: Here is a small but delicate Caravan Ser Raw, though some∣thing improvidently built, the Upper Part being too heavy for the Foundation, it being paved with large Square Stone over the Cloy∣sters, which already begin to press down the Walls, which are most elegantly adorned with Painted Bricks and Polished Marble, both too weak for so great a Weight.

As we strove early the next Morning to reach the end of the Plain,* 1.36 being Thirty Miles, and very wide withal, our shivering Joints made us as sensible of Cold, as if the Frozen Bear had hung over our Heads: Nor must we wonder, since the Air is rarified, being soiled by no Lake, River, or Standing Pools, nor near any Sea or Gulph for some Hundreds of Miles; and to this Thinness of the Air another Reason is joined, the Mountain-Tops around this Plain all the Year long are capped with Snow; from whose Ribs the Sun dissolving them, is the only occasion of watering this Valley, where no other Supply can be had, or not so frequent as this; and his hottest Rays are not powerful enough (as 'tis credibly reported by all, though my Eyes I must confess were too short-sighted to inform me, the Summer being far spent, and this more extremely hot than usual), to melt all that fell in the Winter-Season; to which I ap∣pearing unbelieving, there was present a poor Rustick, who for a small Reward proffered to bring me a Piece to convince me; but having seen it nearer the Port, I did not think it impossible.

We kept on to Degurdu,* 1.37 signifying the Walnut Town, where grew never an one, and lodged our selves here before Noon, the Sun not in the least annoying us.

The Day after we Marched Two and Thirty Miles to Esduchos:* 1.38 But before we exchanged Degurdu for this place, we accosted a Black Marble Mountain,* 1.39 worn as smooth as Glass, and as slippery as Ice, by the constant footing of all sorts of Animals, so that we slode step by step, as our Horses do in deep Way, with this only advan∣tage, that we had sound Bottom: Beneath this a small Plain led us to the brink of a vast Precipice, the utmost Limits of Pharsestan, or the Old Persian Realm; here a deep broad Ditch, through which a troubled muddy Rivulet runs under a Stone Bridge, (the whole being not Broader than our Thamesis) parts this Country from Parthia: We remained this Night on the Persian side, in a Magnificent Brick Caravan Ser Raw, Built on the descent into the Trench, which West∣ward on the dry Banks was stored with fine Gardens and fruitful Or∣chards; over which on the other side was truly verified what might be Fabulously delivered of Semiramis's Pendulous Gardens and Sum∣mer-Houses, there being Tenements made over this Moat out of the ancient Fortifications, barring the Persian Incroachments on their Confines, whose Mouldring Sands have left the jetting Rocks the bare supporters of these hanging Buildings. The finest Wheat of all the Emperor's Dominions is of the growth of this Soil, the Bread whereof is in highest Esteem.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Siras the chief City in Persia.
• * 1.2

  Chap. IV.
• * 1.3

  Their Gar∣dens.
• * 1.4

  The Cypress Trees the big∣est in the Uni∣verse.
• * 1.5

  The Nightin∣gal.
• * 1.6

  The Vine∣yards.
• * 1.7

  Glass only made here.
• * 1.8

  No Fortifica∣tion.
• * 1.9

  The Caun Im∣prisoned.
• * 1.10

  The Kindred of Mahomet Disturbers of their Societies.
• * 1.11

  Their Houses.
• * 1.12

  Their Tem∣ples.
• * 1.13

  The Caun's Palace.
• * 1.14

  We take our leave at the Armenians Bu∣rying-Place.
• * 1.15

  Repositories for Snow, Ice, and To∣bacco used by the Vulgar.
• * 1.16

  Zergoon.
• * 1.17

  The River Araxes, now Bindamire.
• * 1.18

  Why called Bindamire.
• * 1.19

  We suspect the Rhadars to be Robbers at Meergoscoon.
• * 1.20

  Persepolis now Chulminor.
• * 1.21

  Stocks build on the Pillars.
• * 1.22

  A Ram's-head the Arms of Persia.
• * 1.23

  Rustam a Prince of the Gaurs.
• * 1.24

  Uncertain whether it be Persepolis.
• * 1.25

  The Straits where Artiba∣zanes repulsed Alexander.
• * 1.26

  Maijm.
• * 1.27

  Ojoan.
• * 1.28

  The Sweet Almond.
• * 1.29

  Pistacia Nut.
• * 1.30

  The Capper Shrub.
• * 1.31

  The Pine.
• * 1.32

  The Peach.
• * 1.33

  The Pomgra∣nat.
• * 1.34

  Asspass once governed by an Englishman.
• * 1.35

  Cuscuzar.
• * 1.36

  The Moun∣tains capped with Snow.
• * 1.37

  Degurdu.
• * 1.38

  Chap. V.
• * 1.39

  A Ditch at Esducho•• parts Persia from Parthia.