A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. V.

Introduces me into the Nabob's presence;* 1.1 my Business with him; a Prospect of the Gur (Seva Gi's Birth-place); the Army and Country of Duccan: Of the Pass of Tanaw, and benefit thereof, were it in the hands of the English.

IT was the first of May therefore before I waited on him; when he ordered a Guard of Horse to attend me to the Castle, which was large, but rude, and the Wall of raw Brick; serving as well to secure Cattle as Men from the Enemy.

His own Apartments in the middle encompassed a verdent Qua∣drangle of Trees and Plants;* 1.2 in whose chief Choultry were assembled all his Great Men on his Right hand, he being enclosed in a Seat of State, boulstered up with Embroidered Cushions, smoaking out of a Silver Hubble bubble; afore whom lay a rich Sword and Buckler, with a Crescent Moon instead of Bosses, his Page bearing his Bow and Ar∣rows, much after the Turkish manner, as Busbequius reports of the Grand Segnior, Sedebat in Solio humili instrato; juxta autem arcus & sagittae. All the Floor was spread with a soft Bed, over all a fine white Calicut; the Pedestals were Massy Silver, where I put off my Shooes, and after Respect paid, delivered the President's Letter, and was received immediatly next to him on his Left hand, all that side being kept void for my entertainment: The result of this Visit was, after he had acquainted me who were to be my Patients, to tell me I must be patient till a good day presented, and then I should be called again; it remaining a Custom still in the East to defer im∣portant Affairs till a Lucky Day, totis haerentia fastis. I only intreated he would be mindful the Rains were at hand, falling earlier here than in the Low Countries.

Our Discourse being ended,* 1.3 a Couple of Singing-men began their Songs of Praise, which they pride themselves in, not being content with moderate Flattery; a thing odious to a generous Spirit, ac∣counting those that do it, servile; and those that admit it, impru∣dent to be deluded by Fawning Knaves: But here are not only those that profess it for Lucre, but it is the general strife who may impose most obsequiously. Adulandi certamen est, & unum amicorum omnium officium, quis blandissimè fallat; as Seneca observes in the corruption of his Age, de Benef. Cap. XXX.

Such as appear before him make a Salam or Bow before they ascend the Choultry,* 1.4 when if he allows them Conference, leaving their Slip∣pers below, they mount the Buchanna, where they bow, by first putting their Hands to their Heads, then to their Feet, which Sa∣lute they call Pervenau, used to Cauns or Dukes. Above their Head, cross their Breast to the Foot is Pharmau, only for Kings; the most familiar is a Bow with the Head: If they are permitted to sit in his Presence, those only of Consular Dignity have liberty to sit (as they call it at ease) cross Legged; but an European, before he is accustomed, will not be reconciled to that Term: Others of inferior Rank kneel,

sitting on their Heels, to which Posture, though I was not tied, I was thankful when he sent me a Bundle of Pawn, and had leave to make use of my Legs; being led out, as I was conducted in, by Two Virgers, and a large Train following, with a Master of Cere∣monies accompanying.

In my passage through the Castle they seemed rather Encamped than Fortified;* 1.5 wherefore if Seva Gi brings any Power, they betake themselves to speedy Flight, or retire to the Body of the Army un∣der Badur Caun, Generalissimo in these Marches; being ill provided to endure a Siege, and more able to defend themselves, joined to an Host of Forty thousand Horse always at Pergom, three Days Journy hence.

Curiosity invited many Spectators, and Courtesy some of Quality to be my Harbingers at my Lodgings; which at my return I found pestered, as I had the Streets all the way I came: They were very Civil, making no Intrusion before they had requested leave; and then interrogating the State of Europe, the Government, Policy, and Learning; nodding a satisfaction in the account I gave them: Nor were they less communicative in their Relations, of those Occurren∣ces which wheeled in their Sphere, being highly concerned to shew they had Book-men as well as Sword-men.

A good Day coming,* 1.6 the Governor sent for me to Visit his Lady in the Haram, which was opposite to a Chamber he sate in, Accom∣panied only with one pretty Wanton Boy, his Only Son by this Woman; upon which account he had the greater kindness for her: An Old Gentlewoman with a Tiffany Vail, made many trips, being, I suppose, the Governant of the Womens Quarters; at last I was called and admitted with my Linguist.

At our being ready to enter,* 1.7 she Clapped with her Hands to give Notice; when we were led through a long dark Entry, with Dor∣mitories on both sides, the Doors of which Creeked in our passage (but I was cautious of being too Circumspect) till we came to an aiery Choultry; where was placed a Bed hung with Silk Curtains; to which being brought, I was Commanded to place my self close by it, from whence I might conveniently Discourse and Feel her Pulse, putting my Hand under the Curtains. It was agreed among them to impose upon me; wherefore at first they gave me a Slaves Hand, whom I declared to be Sound and Free from any Disease, nothing contradicting the true Tenor and Rythme of Pulsation; when they began to be more ingenuous, telling me, it was done to try me: Then was given me another Hand, which demonstrated a weak languid Constitution; and collecting the Signs and Symptoms, I feared not to give Sentence; which met with their Approbation, and so I was sent back the same way I came.

The Caun had been acquainted with what had passed, and seemed pleased; whereupon I must visit the Haram again the next day to Bleed another of his Wives, he being tolerated Four, though he keeps more than Three hundred Concubines.

And now the Curtain was extended athwart the Choultry,* 1.8 and an Arm held forth at an hole; but this was a slight fence for such Ani∣mals, who leaning too hard as they peeped, pulled it down, and disco∣vered

the whole Bevy, fluttering like so many Birds when a Net is cast over them; yet none of them sought to escape, but feigning a shamefacedness, continued looking through the wide Lattice of their Fingers: The Lady I had by the Arm was a Plump Russet Dame, summoning the remainder of her Blood to enliven her Cheeks (for among the darkest Blacks, the Passions of Fear, Anger, or Joy, are discernible enough in the Face) and she bearing a command, caused it to be hung up again; pouring upon her extravasated Blood a Golden shower of Pagods, which I made my Man fish for.

In this Interview they appeared to me not altogether unimployed,* 1.9 there lying pared Mangoes, and other Fruits for Confection, and Achars, or Pickles; some Samplers of good Housewifry in Needle∣works; and no indecent decorum in managing their Cloystered way of living, making it agreeable to the choice of Custom rather than Restraint: But here are foulmouthed Homers that Stigmatize them, how deservedly I dare not say.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Nil gravius nil improbius quam foemina vivit.

And a Man would guess no less, to see the number of Spies upon them, of Toothless Old Women, and Beardless Eunuchs, that they are incontinent in their Desires, for which reason they debar them the sight of any thing Male, but their Lord; they Waiting, as well to hand them Necessaries, as Wood, Water, Meat, and the like, taking them at the Door, as to prevent unlawful Intruders.

These have their Singing Wenches;* 1.10 exercise their Ears and Noses with weighty Jewels, as the Gipsy of Old did her Hair and Neck.

—Colloque comisque Divitias Cleopatra gerit, cultuque Laborat. Lucan.

And are Cloathed like the Men, only they go in their Hair within, and abroad with Vails.

Gaining by these steps a nearer intimacy with the Nabob,* 1.11 he cut me new Business out every day; he advised me of the intention of the Governor of the Castle on the Hill, to commit his Brother to my Care; and I in a private Conference, according to my Instructi∣ons, propounded the Commodity might arise from an intercourse of Commerce between this place and Bombaim, from thence to Bussorah, Persia, and Maecha, for to provide the Army with Horses; in re∣turn of whom might be exchang'd the same Goods procurable at Surat and better Cheap, should they succeed in their Conquests over the Low Countries; which is not a matter of such impossibi∣lity should they earnestly set upon it, considering the Avenues are open: But by that proceeding, it would take away a powerful ob∣stacle to the maintaining so vast an Army as is always in Duccan, whereby a main Body of the Soldiery would be out of pay; which is absolutely against the Generals interest, and therefore he would never consent: This I soon saw was the main Argument, though he coloured it with pretext, that 'twas a work of more pains to reduce

Seva, than was represented, in respect of his Situation, being im∣powered not only to make Excursions, but to bid them Defiance.

Whereupon I told him, If the latter was not feasible, it was in vain to propose any thing in relation to the former, for that all Ac∣cess was stopped if the Low Lands were not cleared; the Havaldars being unconscionable in their Customs, and without doubt would interrupt what might be serviceable to their Enemies, or bring pre∣judice to their Prince; whereas were the Ways free, it would enrich his Jageah beyond the Bunder at Surat, and tie the English to a per∣petual Truce, who were known in these Parts addicted to Traffick, and Friends to Peace: He asked further, How far we desired to ex∣tend this Liberty? I replied, beyond the Portugal Dominions, which would front the Island of Bombaim about Tull; otherwise we must be at the charge of double Custom, to them as well as the Mogul. He said all this had been moved to Badur Caun, but those to whose hands the Presents for him had been entrusted, had defrauded him of them, on whom nothing was to be wrought without liberal Piscashes, he bearing it as high as the King himself, and at this juncture he was an unfit Mediator to him, having lately had some jarrs with him (the Governor of Jeneah undervaluing his Authority in an Expe∣pedition, not long enough ago to be thoroughly forgot); however did the President immediately apply himself to him, he was incli∣nable enough to let him Settle Factories; which I gave him to un∣derstand, without a mutual Benefit on both sides, was not the pre∣sent Design; but for the esteem we bore to Men of Honour, and that made account of their Word, it was wished the Moguls were posses∣sed of those Parts; which was never to be cultivated, either with good Manners, or Profit, whilst Perfidy reigned there.

This being the substance of our Discourse, after he had related the Business to his Council (he replied) he would intimate what might be effected in it, to the President, in answer to his Letter.

At Night it was dismally Tempestuous,* 1.12 Killing Two of the Watch on Duty, and carrying a Tower of the Hill at one Clap; below, it brake one Man's Arm, the Prologue to the Rains.

The Day after the Nabob's Brother,* 1.13 of the Castle, was received kindly here, bringing a noble Train, and Piscash to bespeak his Welcome; he was Lodged in a Palace adjoining that where I was.

The Eleventh of May I went abroad to a Garden left by a common Strumpet,* 1.14 in which was a noble Tomb built in remembrance of her, with a Well belonging to a lovely Spring, which by Aqueducts sup∣plied the City with Water.

Who when she died, like Flora Fair, Did make the Commonwealth her Heir.

Hence we went to a ruined Palace,* 1.15 where Auren Zeeb, the present Emperor, was hospitably received in his Father's Reign, and lived a pretended Fakier.

Cotton in its season is Planted all hereabouts:* 1.16 The Fields produce Wheat in abundance, and other Grain; but are often served as the Philistine's were by Sampson, the Foxes from the Mountains with Fire∣brands

consuming them; which made us bethink of retiring, they descending sometimes in Parties to Prey on Straglers, that often Troopers are sent home disrobed and dismounted, to be laught at for their Misfortune.

Having tarried now till the Rains had made their first onset Four∣teen days together,* 1.17 with horrid Thunder; at the end thereof I set apart a day to take notice of the adjacent Rarities; among which is a City called Dungeness, of like Antiquity and Workmanship, as Canorein, cut out of a Mountanous Rock, with a Temple and other spacious Halls, by no means inferior to it both for Water and other Refreshments, and much more entire; Time having not dealt so cruelly with it, but the Lines of its ruined Beauty are still legible, though in old Characters; however it is left a desolate Habitation for Batts and Wasps; to disturb which it is dangerous, being over∣grown and desperately revengeful, following their Aggressors till they have Whealed them into Contrition for their unadvised Provo∣cation: To be out of the Noise of these buzzing Hornets, and to se∣cure our selves from the surprize of any disturbed Idolater, who might bellow the report of our being here, we hasted to the safer Plain, and ended the rest of the day in a pleasant Garden, on the brink of the River which glides hence to Surat.

The Governor of the Gur hearing I was preparing for to return to Bombaim,* 1.18 requested before my departue to accept of my choice, either to ascend the Gur, or else to meet him at his Garden below, being the prescribed Limits of his Walk: I signified my readiness to comply with the former, wherefore he sent Four Palenkeens, his Kinsman, an Ingenuous Mogul, and his Brother to attend me.

We Travelled Two Miles before we came to the Foot of it,* 1.19 where is a Garison, or Fortified Town, walled with strong Chockies, or Watches, and a Troop of Five hundred Horse, and as many Camels of War; here are great Stacks of Hay and Corn, all their Droves of Beasts being sheltered here anights. Seva Gi has distressed this often, and put them to the rout; but that, whose Top we are endeavouring to gain, is inaccessible, unless by Seven winding Gates, which are ve∣ry strong, and able to clear one another as they rise, the Way being lined with Murtherers, and they themselves defended with good Pieces of Ordnance: The last is a Piece of excellent Work and Strength, and the place filled with Soldiers.

Hence it is painful Riding,* 1.20 and requires a strong Back to keep State in a Palenkeen, it being carried almost bolt upright, over slippery Marble steps, cut out of the shining Rock, as smooth as Glass, and reflecting the Sun-beams as much: After we had mounted near an Hundred Stairs, we were received into the Neck of the Castle, which is collared about with a Wall, rather to keep them from falling down, than needful to prevent Assailants; from whence an easy Ascent leads to a Level, which is the Circus to train the In∣fantry; where are conspicuous Tombs of their former Kings, being firmly Built, and a Mosque of polished Marble, which on Festivals only they repair unto: No Houses here are able to resist the Storms of Wind, or the Sun's Heat, for which conveniency they have made the Eastern side of the Hill most Inhabited, it serving instead

of a Bank; where they live in little low Huts, the Governor's not exceeding in height, (though a pretty neat Dwelling, fenced with Trees, no where else to be found) who had expected me Two whole Hours; but being impatient of delay, and the Sun growing too hot, he betook himself to his Haram, having ordered his Kinsman (whose Civil Deportment met with his Commands) to Entertain me; he is but Poor (so that he threatens the Nabob to turn Fakier) yet Ge∣nerous, of a free open Temper, neither Jealous nor Lazy, as the Moors most are; but applying himself to several Handicrafts, which he has learned of the Europeans; he is learned too in the Persian and Ara∣bick Languages, though not to Vain-glory; being so Humble, Face∣tious, and Merry, that nothing but Spight and Envy can disagree with him: His Name is Nishambeak; such another I have not met with, so general a lover of Franks; which he specified in an espe∣cial manner to me, receiving me in an Airy Banquetting-house, Embellished and Adorned on purpose; and notwithstanding the Go∣vernor's Son was to pay his Compliments, would not suffer me to give him Place, but diverted me with several Interludes of Morisco Dancing. That which took most with them I perceived, was a Jester, or Mimick, the Ancient Salt at publick Banquets, as we may gather from Statius:

Non ego Mercatus Phariâ de puppe Loquaces Delicias, doctumque sui convicia Nili Infantem, Linguâque simul salibusque protervum.

And from Lucan to Piso:

Sed Miserum (clientem) parvâ stipe numerat —ut pudibundas Exercere sales inter convivia possit.

Having feasted the Fancy,* 1.21 he contends to cloy the Stomach, with loads of Viands stowed in Plate, serving me with his own Hands, his Friends and he being content to feed on the desire they had to satisfy me, not being to be courted to fall to till I had done; they served me with variety of Stews and Baked Meats, but offered me Sherbet only for Drink; I had provided against this chance by fil∣ling my Metarrah with Beveridge, which passed for Water, being drunk out of a Leather Bottle Tipped with Silver, for Travel.

After Dinner they made their loud Musick proclaim my going to the Governor (whereat flocked all the Gur) and after formal Salutes,* 1.22 present him with a Glass of Chymical Spirits. As the Parthians were wont not to receive Visits without a Gift; Et exem∣pla in Oriente plura sunt, interea & Magorum in sacris qui Christum ado∣raturi, munera attulerunt. So here the like Custom prevails.

I was placed close by him,* 1.23 he like an Hermit, having the Court brought to him, admired the Splendour as well as the Novelty of our Europe Dress; asking my Servant if I lay in them, because it is their fashion not to undress to go to Bed, but lye in the same Clothes they wear in the day; he made me declare the use of my Rapier, at

first not apprehending it so serviceable as their Broad Two-handed Swords; 'twas a Question out of my road, yet I made him under∣stand our Custom in War was to appear all armed Cap-a-pee, where their Broad Swords would find a rebate; whereas these Sharp-pointed Weapons would pierce the Junctures of the Harness, or the Pleats of a Coat of Mail (they denying a Stab to be more mortal than a Slash). He was very inquisitive about our Military Discipline; and heard it with pleasure. He called all his Male Children about him, who sate at his Feet, and gave me an History of their Maladies; as most here did that durst speak, there being an infinite number of Captains and Grave Fellows: The Old Men mended their Eyes with Spectacles, the young marred theirs with staring.

The Choultry was hung with Green and Red Velvet checkered;* 1.24 his Pawn Boxes were large, and of Massy Gold; his Retinue grave, his Carriage affable; he gave me a Bow-Ring off his Thumb, of Cash∣mire (of equal value as Vertue, being a Charm against Thunder) and the liberty to take a Round about the Castle, never before granted any not listed in his Service: A Portuguez Mestizo, Chief Gunner of the Castle, was very officious, though I was entrusted to the charge of his prime Eunuch.

The first Object busied me,* 1.25 was a Place Seva Gi's Men had at∣tempted to scale, by me esteemed a desperate Design, and very im∣probable; yet two Men got up, and a Stone casually tumbling, de∣terred their Accomplices, leaving them a Sacrifice to the Governor and Women, who being left alone to the defence of the Castle (all the Men deserting on the approach of a vast Army of Seva Gi's) hurled them down the Mountain for their rash Adventure; con∣firming to me by a great Stone let fall, the unavoidableness of their destruction; it running with that force where-ever it came, that it beat all a-fore, till it rested in the middle of the Valley.

It is stored with Granaries hewed out of Stone,* 1.26 I suppose for Re∣ligion's sake at first, being too delicately engraved for the present use; though there be several Tanks filled with Butter of 400 years standing, prized by the Gentiles as high as Gold, prevalent in Old Aches, and Sore Eyes, one of which was opened for my sake, and a Present made me of its black stinking and viscous Balsom: There are other Tanks or Cisterns for Water, which look nastily, Green, Yellow, and Red, being distilled in the Rains, and in the Heats evaporated to a Consistency; in some of these Gurs the Water is so bad, that they use Onions to correct its unsavoriness. (Garlick in∣deed with us is called the Countryman's Treacle).

They have Provisions for a Seven Years Siege for a Thousand Fa∣milies,* 1.27 but no other Ammunition than Stones, excepting two un∣shapen Sakers of Two and twenty Foot long, with a narrow Bore of Brass of Gentu Mould, at each end one, on huge winding Carriages; one of which at random killed a Rajah some four Months ago, when Seva was encamped about Jeneah slinging a Bullet two Course off; which Shot caused a Bonfire of a couple of his Ladies, beside other Dome∣sticks; one of each sort to attend him in another World, as his Chief Physician, Barber, Washerman, Horse-keeper, and the like, to the number of Twenty odd; a thing as customary at the death of

any great Rajah, as 'tis for the Wife of every Gentue of note at the death of her Husband.

By this fatal Instrument of Mortality stood the remaining part of the Tower the Thunder had cleft in twain: Near where a Dutch Apostate has a wretched Dwelling, enjoying a Pair of Wives, the miserable Tools who induced him to this lamentable Condition, that he is despised and slighted by them all; few of those that endure Cir∣cumcision meeting with better fortune.

Having taken my full view,* 1.28 and returning to give the Governor Thanks for this freedom, I met him as he came from Prayers through a Lane of Soldiers, followed by a Crowd of his Domesticks, when taking my leave, he ordered my release, being ushered with the same State down as I came up, leaving him Prisoner in his strong Hold.

Hence might be beheld many Dens and Caverns, fondly believed to be carved and cut out of the Rocks by some Divine Power; having no account of their original. Indeed they are miraculous; And I am apt to judge, the pious Zeal of former Ages, when undisturbed in their Tranquility, thinking the greatest labour too little to express their love to a Deity, set them upon such imployments, more than that they could promise to themselves any security from these Places; which though the Passages to them be difficult, yet they are gene∣rally unprovided of Human Necessaries; This Hill being only inde∣pendent, whereby it stands out against all the opposite Forts of Seva Gi, many of whom in a still Night may be heard by Voice, but more by Trumpets.

Here are a Thousand Sword-men in pay,* 1.29 no Horse or Elephant be∣ing able to climb it: It was never fairly taken, the Governor is one of approved Fidelity; the Mogul having not the like Fort in all his Kingdoms, and is of main concern to the Frontiers; putting a stop to Seva Gi's progress, otherwise likely to overrun Duccan. His name is Hagiess Caun, originally a Brachmin, now a strict Musleman; some years past Governor of the City, when oppressing the Poor, their Cries reaching the King's Ears, he was translated hither, in conside∣ration of his good Service; where he receives a liberal Pension, and is at no Expence, which agrees well enough with his covetous Hu∣mour; which Humour of his Seva Gi being informed of, left no means unattempted to gain the Surrender of his Trust; promising Mountains of Gold in exchange of this, which he scrupled not to receive; appointing a day for the delivery of it to Seva Gi, if he sent 7000 to take possession; who keeping touch, met with the same measure he had meated to others, they being all surprised by an Ambuscado from Badur Caun, whom the Governor had advertised of all the Transactions.

That which makes Seva Gi so intent on this more than the fore∣mentioned Advantages,* 1.30 is, because it was his Birth-place; to whom that of Virgil is applicable,

Non tibi diva parens generis, nec Dardanus author Perfide: Sed duris genuit te cautibus ingens Jenneah; Duccanaeque admôrunt ubera tigres.

What makes it more famous, it was anciently the Seat Royal of the Duccan Kings, under whom Seva Gi's Father was Keeper; but Auren∣zeeb in his Conquest of this Kingdom (after he had fled hither for protection) had it surrendred unto him: It is reckoned two Course and an half in height; is surrounded, though a good way off, with Hills, all but towards the North, where it seems to stand Captain of the Mountains.

The Moguls I perceive are inclinable to the like Credulity the Gentues are,* 1.31 pointing out a Mount where undoubtedly Solomon gave Audit to the two Women claiming the same Child, and pronounced Judgment in favour of the true Mother; and it still bears the name of Tecta Schelimon, Solomon's Throne; I brought Night with me to Jeneah, being too well guarded to suspect any Attempt; though notable enough by the multitudes of Oily Flambeaus.

This Day gave me occasion to take notice of the sneaking Offici∣ousness of the Banyans, who pressed on my Heels, and where-ever I went, waited like Lacquies, which put me in mind of that Distich of Martial's,

Lecticam sellamque sequor, nec ferre recuso Per medium properans, sed prior ire tutum.

The New Moon brought the Soldiers to their several Standards,* 1.32 against the Governor's House, by their Salam to refresh his Memory of their Pay, being Fourteen Months behind-hand. Pay, says Tacitus, is the Cause of Soldiers, and Money is the Cause of Pay; which is not wanting to the Muster-masters, who abuse the common Troopers in retarding it; to the end, that having run into debt, they might compound for half their Wages in ready Money; for all which they leave not often their Side, for they are sure of something with ease, whereas Seva Gi is a kind of Free-booter, whose Maxim is, No Plun∣der, no Pay; which comes with pain and hazard: Yet it is common for him to have Moors in his Army; for the Liberty of their Country is not stood so much upon, as Whose Salt they eat (their own Phrase); so that you may see Gentues in the Mogul's Army, as well as Moguls among the Gentues: For the most part of the Body of the Cavalry consists of Moguls, the Infantry of Gentues, with Match-Lock Muskets.

In order to this Convention every Petty Officer brings the number of his Men and Horse along with him,* 1.33 who first salute him, and he the Governor, owning none else for their Commander, though they fall off under such an Ensign as they are ordered to march with: They are taught little more than the Grand Paw, and to make a Salam: They ride in wide Saddles as our War Saddles, but hold with the Calves of their Legs, not fasten themselves to their Saddles by their Thighs, as we do; by which slight they raise themselves to mow down their Enemies, and will cast a Spear, and take it up from the Ground on full speed: They stop with a jerk, not taking their Horses up by degrees, which they laugh at us for, as well as our riding with our Feet at length: They have no Spurs to their Heels, but in their

Bridle-bit is one to stop the most untamed Horse, or bore his Mouth through, pointing out of a Circle upon their Tongues.

They have other excellent Qualities; as he that runs fastest, is the best Soldier: Besides, their Arms are kept so bright, they are afraid to handle them for fear of soiling them: Their Leaders are good Carpet-Knights, loving their Buchannos better than the Field.

The old Roman Discipline takes place,* 1.34 viz. Commanders of Tens, so of Hundreds, thence to Legions; and accordingly receive their Salary, making their own Terms with those under them: The Go∣vernor distributing to the Officers, and they to the Soldiers, every one having their Snips; that never was more truly verified that Pro∣verb, Half the King's Cheese goes away in Parings.

The Grandees of the Army appear with their Furniture of Silver and Gold,* 1.35 on Persian, Arab, or Turkish Steeds; the rest rarely get any other than the Race of the Country, which are Fiery and Met∣tlesome, but very Flashy, probably because they pinch Their Bellies to put into their Own.

And now the Rains began to urge me to take my Leave of the Caun of Jeneah,* 1.36 which I did in a full Assembly convocated for the purpose; where I was informed Two hundred of Seva Gi's Men had pursued me almost to Ambegaum, with a resolution to have carried me back, but durst come no further, for the Report of the Army being in Motion; wherefore the Naibob advised me to take another way, and a select Guard of his should attend me to the utmost Extent of his Territories; after which he dismissed me very honourably, with a Letter to the President, which is not sealed on the Paper, but in a Neat Bag of Cloath of Gold or Silver.

This Naibob Mucklis Caun lives not in that Splendor the Governor of Surat does, though he have ten times the Salary, being liable to the daily Assaults of Seva Gi; but he exceeds in Command, being Absolute, without any Dependance on the General; which causes an Emulation on either side, and the more, because the Mogul has lately heaped new Honours on Badur Caun, doubling his Stipend, and giving him the Title of Foster Brother, his Mother nursing the King: But this Governor, to equalize him in Wealth, keeps but half the alotted Number in Pay, and lives sparingly, which makes him take Sanctuary with regret sometimes under Badur Caun, he being always upon the Forlorn Hope.

This Cheat is practi•••• all over the Realm,* 1.37 notwithstanding here are Publick Notaries placed immediately by the ••••gul, to give No∣tice of all Transactions; which they are sure to represent in favour of the Governors where they reside, being Fee'd by them, as well as Paid by the Emperor; so that if a Defeat happen, it is extenua∣ted; if a Victory, it is magnified to the height: Those in this Of∣fice are called Vocanoveces.

The Government of this Place is as in all other Cities of the Mo∣guls.* 1.38 The Walls are broken down, but the Gates are still remain∣ing: With the City's Safeguard Trade is fled, though it be commo∣diously feared, and furnished with course Chints, fine Lawn, and plenty of Cotton-Grounds; but the Plowmen and Weavers have followed the Merchants, a Rich one not being to be heard of in se∣ven or eight days Journy from hence.

The Buzzars therefore consist chiefly of Provisions, which they compel the Country to bring in, and sometimes take them by Force, by reason of the general Poverty reigning among them.

Wherefore the 22^d of May I left them,* 1.39 and took my Way by Nunny Gaot, or the Little Hill in respect of the other, which we saw mounted a prodigious height above us: Hither I came by twelve a Clock at Noon, a far shorter and easier Way than the other: It is ten Course from Jeneah, wherein we travelled between a Couple of Seva Gi's Castles; and overlooking the Gaot, is a third very like Je∣neah Gur, which hailed us; I sent one to answer them, but kept on my Course till I came to the Gaot, where I was constrained to bestow more time th••n I was willing, 300 Oxen laden with Salt (which is so precious up the Country, as to be proverbially preferred to Bread, they saying, Whose Salt they eat, as we, Whose Bread,) stopping the Gap; but with a little Intreaty, after an hour's standing still in the Sun, I got them, by sending my Peons, to desist below, till we had widen'd the Pass above; after which it is feasible, being sup∣plied at fit distances with charitable Cisterns of good Water, and to∣wards the bottom adorned with beautiful Woods, delighting as well as refreshing us with the Shade: By Sunset I was in the Plain, where an honest Subidar that took off his Liquor, let me pass without trou∣ble, being more like a Scout than a Set-Watch.

Nor do I believe the Mogul's Army dare venture to advance be∣tween these Streights,* 1.40 which are so well maintain'd; but farther North the Hills seem to stoop more to the Plain, and it may be that Way they may pass; though this Way be tolerable for Caphala's and Merchants who have their Passports.

We reckon to have measured this Day Fifteen Course, most in the Heat of the Day, to the side of a poor Village called Wesnure, where we rested under a Tree, the Coolies being unprovided for; nor could they purchase any thing here, the Inhabitants being hared out of their Wits, mistrusting even their own Countrymen as well as Strangers, living as it were wildly, betaking themselves to the Thick∣ets and Wildernesses among the Hills, upon the approach of any new Face; for my Horse by chance breaking loose, set a whole Gom or Town upon the hoof, they thinking Auren Zeeb's Luscarry at hand; thus unhappily live these, a Prey to every one.

The Clouds had spread themselves over the Tops of the Hills, that they seemed to make a Ne plus ultra, or the World's-End.

The next Day at Twelve a Clock at Noon we struck into our old Road at Moorbar,* 1.41 from whence before we were misguided; we packed hence by Five in the Afternoon, and left our Burnt Wood on the Right-hand, but entred another made us better Sport, deluding us with false Flashes, that you would have thought the Trees on a Flame, and presently, as if untouch'd by Fire, they retained their wonted Verdure. The Colies beheld the Sight with Horror and Amazement, and were consulting to set me down, and shift for them∣selves; whereof being informed, I cut two or three with my Sword, and by breathing a Vein, let Shitan▪ (the Devil) out, who was crept into their Fancies, and led them as they do a startling Jade, to smell to what their Wall-Eyes represented amiss; where we found an Host

of Flies, the Subject both of our Fear and Wonder, which the sultry Heat and Moisture had generated into Being, the certain Prodromus of the ensuing Rain, which follow'd us from the Hills.

This gave my Thoughts the Contemplation of that Miraculous Bush crowned with Innocent Flames, that gave to Moses so pleasant and awful a Prospect; the Fire that consumes every thing, seeming rather to dress than offend it.

Thus we came to Barfta,* 1.42 a despicable Country Town, Seven Course more; it is in possession of the Combies, who are not strong enough to aid their Herds against the devouring Jaws of the Wild Beasts, a young Buffola being seized the Night before, out of the Ta∣bernacle they lodged me in; wherefore they caution•••• me to keep Fires all Night, lest the Horse might lose one of his Quarters, or our Oxen might serve them for a Supper; I added to the Fires a strict Watch, whose mutual answering each other in an high Tone, was deafen'd by the Roarings of Tigres, Cries of Jackals, and Yel∣lings of Baloos, or over-grown Wolves: At Cock-crow (the Lions Charm) we parted hence, and observed the Sheds here were round, thatch'd, and lined with broad Leaves of Teke (the Timber Ships are built with), in fashion of a Bee-hive: These Combies are the Wood-men. About Seven we overtook our deep Creek, and being somewhat swelled by the Rains, we followed its Current till we found it passable; about Eleven we returned to Gullean.

The Hardship these poor Combies undergo was obvious to the sense of the very Coolies,* 1.43 who often in this Journy would reflect on their own Happiness under the English Government; those being all so harass'd, that they dare not Till the Ground, never expecting to reap what they sow, or remain in their Houses, but seek lurking-Places in De∣serts and Caverns, being naked to the Violence of the Plunderer, and therefore both unsafe and uncomfortable Journeying for Tra∣vellers. I took up my Station where I was before, and sent my Man to the Havaldar to complain of the Treachery of the Guides; he professed he was asham'd, but a new Governor being since put over his Head, with the Command of a Party of Horse, he was incapable of punishing them; yet for what further Courtesy he was able to do he was ready, and to that end sent to the Subidar for his License for a Boat, which now are all pluck'd up and housed ashore, the Rains more than approaching, so that it was troublesome procuring one; but by their joint Power it was at last atchieved; which a cross∣grain'd Brachmin, supported by an outlaw'd Portugal, contradicted in despight of both, seizing it by Force with Three Files of Soldadoes.

For which cause I was tied to the Consort of croaking Frogs,* 1.44 ma∣king so hideous a Noise, that I took little Rest this Night: When Day broke I could hardly believe my Eyes, for Bulk, or Ears, for Sound, exceeding ours incredibly; and to raise the Wonder, this Night was the first of the Rains, before which none were heard: Wherein Pliny may be trusted, better than in some other Reports; for speaking de Ranis, he says, Mirum semestri vitâ resolvuntur in limum, nullo cernente, & rur∣sus vernis aquis renascuntur, quae fuere natae, proinde occultâ ratione cum omnibus annis id eveniat. Et Aristot. de Gen. Anim▪ cap. 4. Generantur autem in terrâ & humore animalia & plantae; quoniam humor in terrâ,

spiritus in humore, calor animalis in universo est, ita ut quodammodo ani∣ma••um plena sunt omnia.

Sic Ovidius.

Semina limus habet virides generantia ranas.

Who all consent to the possibility of the thing, the prolifick Virtue lying hid in the slimy Matter, till a conjunction of fit Causes dispose it for suddain Action.

Walking the Quarters of my Lodgings,* 1.45 a more delightful, and as unusual a Prospect attracted my Animadversion; a great Tree full of stringy red Flowers, set in open Calices upon a long Stalk, like budding Grapes; which before the Sun had collected much force, I saw begin to fall in showers upon the Ground; desiring to handle one Bough, I observed them fixed; still they upon the Tree dropped till all was shedded, and the Ground strewed with them, which a Brach∣min carefully gathered up to reserve for a Physical use; but more truly out of Superstition, paying Rent for the Privilege: This Wonder is renewed daily, they Blossoming in the Night, and con∣trary almost to all other Plants, are disgusted with the Sun-beams, drooping in the day; which is like the Arbor Tristis at St. Thomas his Mount, only the Flowers of that are White and Sweet, and this Red and indifferently Scented; the Leaves of the Tree resemble those of a Walnut; in the Country Nomenclature it is called Nure; of what Virtue I cannot learn.

Discharging here my Oxen,* 1.46 which I hired of a Gentue, who though they will not Kill their Neat, make no Conscience to Work them to Death, allowing them hardly Food to keep them alive.

Neither are they less Inhuman toward their Sick,* 1.47 a Woman being brought to die among the Tombs in my sight; pretended to be done to avoid the Governor's troubling the Family (where she lived a Dancing Wench) for Money; they making themselves Heirs to their Estates when they die: Non ad eundem finem quem Herodotus ait, uti Antiquiores Aegyptii aegrotos suos non ad medicos, sed in compita, & publicas vias deferebant, populum praetereuntem pro morborum cura∣tione consulturi: Not for that purpose, as Herodotus presumes; the Egyptians brought not their Sick to Physicians, but laid them in the Streets and publick Passages, that the People passing by might be consulted for their Cure.

Every Third Hour I had the din of a Man of God of the Moors,* 1.48 permitted to come hither to call them to Prayers; as he cried aloud he stopped his Ears with his Fingers, that he might emit his Voice with the more strength, and less disturbance to himself; experience thereby directing us to hear our own Sounds the better; and some Anatomists tell us, Nature has framed a Cartilaginous passage from the hollow of the Drum of the Ear, to the process of the outward part of the cuneal Bone reaching to the Palat, which being open may possibly divert the Noise; but whether this do help, or is un∣derstood by them, yet this they do Practise; and this Afternoon their Sanctum Sanctorum was open, the Priest entring in Barefoot and Prostrating himself on the Mats spread on the Floor, whither I must

not have gone, could his Authority have kept me out; the Walls were white and clean, but plain, only the Commandments, wrote in Arabick in the West-end, were hung on a Table over an Arched Place, where the Priest Expounds on an Ascent of Seven Steps, railed at top with Stone very handsomely: It is supported within with Four sub∣stantial Pillars of Timber well carved, the Roof all Wood, with a square Hole over the Pulpit: Underneath are fine cool Vaults, and Stone Stairs to descend to a deep Tank, where this Priest was following the Occupation of making such Paper as they use; which after he had steeped Cotton Rags in Water, he by beating brought it into the form of Paper; and cutting them, or slicing the Mass into Sheets, was past∣ing them up on the Stone-sides of the Mosque, next the Sun, to dry; after which they are polished and glazed, and so made fit for their use.

In the Evening I saw the reason of our stay this day;* 1.49 a Pragma∣tical Portugal fled to this Place, for designing the death of a Fidalgo in the front of 40 Men marching to the Governor's; his Name Pedro Sylvio, a Rich Lout, no Gentleman: Besides these he keeps as a Guard to his Body, he has a Bloudy Leash of Cofferies imployed to be revenged on his Antagonist at Baçein; here he acts without Controle, and is about to accept of Pay under Seva Gi, he being courted there∣to, because he is a bold desperate Fellow, the fitter Instrument to ruin his Nation.

In the mean time here arriving a Bombaim Boat,* 1.50 she was presently disburthened of her Lading, and I Embarqued, and the 26th of May came abreast of Tanaw, the Pass here being another main Impedi∣ment to the intended Trade up the Country with the Moors; which, had we in our possession, according to the Contract with Portugal, we might the easier make Seva Gi comply; and more than that, find Lordships for Englishmen, where they might live contentedly, and not be beholden to Foreign Supplies for Provisions: By Three the next Morning I Anchored against the Bunder at Bombaim, and Landed presently after Travally-Beat, delivering my Letter from the Caun to the President.

Here rode an Europe Ship called the Fleece;* 1.51 which lost her Passage last Year, coming too late out of England; and about Noon the Rain∣bow arrived, they being both forced to put in at Bombass, an Island of the Portugals on the Coast of Melinda, which produces excellent Ivory, and other Miracles, from whence they failed together; till just on this Shore a Storm separated them, the Fleece gaining this Port; the Rainbow fell first in with Surat, and to Day came to an Anchor here.

Thus if I have been too prolix in this Narrative,* 1.52 I must beg your pardon for endeavouring to satisfy you on two Scores, which none but one of my Profession must pretend to; the one relating to the Women, and the other to their Fortified Gurs or Castles; and if it find your Acceptance, it is all the Aim I have, and my Pains is there∣by sufficiently rewarded.

Bombaim 1675. Sept. 22.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Chap. V.
• * 1.2

  The Caun re∣ceives me publickly.
• * 1.3

  Sycophants encouraged.
• * 1.4

  Several man∣ner of Ad∣dresses.
• * 1.5

  The Castle no strong place.
• * 1.6

  A good Day consulted, when I had a private Invita∣tion to the Caun.
• * 1.7

  Admitted the Womens Quarters.
• * 1.8

  What hap∣pened while I was in the Haram.
• * 1.9

  Scandal thrown upon the Women.
• * 1.10

  Their Dress is Rich.
• * 1.11

  A Conference about the Affairs of the English.
• * 1.12

  Mischief done by Thunder.
• * 1.13

  The Gover∣nor's Brother of the Hill descends for Cure.
• * 1.14

  A Strumpet's Benefaction.
• * 1.15

  The Empe∣ror's Palace.
• * 1.16

  The Fields no sooner Sowed than set on Fire.
• * 1.17

  Dungeness ano∣ther Heathen Fane.
• * 1.18

  The Request of the Gover∣nour of the Hill for my Ascent.
• * 1.19

  The Suburbs a shelter to the Castle.
• * 1.20

  The Hill in∣accessible but by Seven Gates.
• * 1.21

  Feasted by the Governor's Order.
• * 1.22

  None appear before Great Men without a Present.
• * 1.23

  How strange our Arms and Apparel seem to them.
• * 1.24

  Permitted the freedom of the Castle.
• * 1.25

  A bold At∣tempt of Seva Gi's Men.
• * 1.26

  Granaries for Stores now, formerly Re∣ligious Cells.
• * 1.27

  A Rajah slain the occasion of a Barbarous Funeral.
• * 1.28

  Took leave of the Governor.
• * 1.29

  This Gur puts a stop to Seva Gi this way.
• * 1.30

  Jeneah Gur the Birth-place of Seva Gi.
• * 1.31

  The Moors toucht 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Supersti∣tion of the Gentues.
• * 1.32

  Of the Luscar∣ry or Army.
• * 1.33

  Its Appear∣ance.
• * 1.34

  The Disci∣pline.
• * 1.35

  The Com∣m••nders rich∣ly accoutred.
• * 1.36

  I take my leave of the Caun.
• * 1.37

  False Musters the Practice of India.
• * 1.38

  The Govern∣ment and Commodities.
• * 1.39

  Returned by Nunny Gaot, or the little Hill.
• * 1.40

  No Army likely to pass this way.
• * 1.41

  Glistering Flies about a Tree, scare the Coolies.
• * 1.42

  Forc'd to keep Watch against the Wild Beasts.
• * 1.43

  The Coolies Reflections on the Miseries of these People.
• * 1.44

  Prodigious great Frogs.
• * 1.45

  The Nure-Tree.
• * 1.46

  Cruelty to their Beasts.
• * 1.47

  Inhumanity to their Sick.
• * 1.48

  The Moor-men Priests follow Trades.
• * 1.49

  A Pragmatical Portugal hin∣dred me Em∣barking.
• * 1.50

  A Bombaim Shebar carries me to Bom∣baim.
• * 1.51

  What Europe Ships I found in the Road.
• * 1.52

  The Conclu∣sion.