Bucaniers of America the second volume : containing the dangerous voyage and bold attempts of Captain Bartholomew Sharp, and others, performed upon the coasts of the South Sea, for the space of two years, &c. : from the original journal of the said voyage / written by ... Basil Ringrose, Gent., who was all along present at those transactions.

CHAP. VIII. Description of the State and Condition of Panama, and the parts adjacent. What Vessels they took while they blocked up the said Port. Captain Coxon with seventy more returneth home. Saw∣kins is chosen in chief.

THe famous City of Panama is situate in the latitude of nine degrees North. It standeth in a deep Bay,* 1.1 belonging to the South Sea. It is in form round, except∣ing only that part where it runs along the Sea-side. For∣merly it stood four miles more Easterly, when it was ta∣ken by Sir Henry Morgan, as is related in the History of the Bucaniers. But by him then being burnt, and three times more since that time by casualty, they removed it to the place where it now standeth. Yet notwithstanding, some poor people there are still inhabiting at the old Town, and the Cathedral Church is still kept there, the beautiful building whereof maketh a fair shew at a distance, like un∣to that of St. Pauls at London. This new City, of which I now speak, is much bigger than the old one was, and is built for the most part of brick, the rest being built of stone, and tiled. As for the Churches belonging thereunto, they are not as yet finished. These are eight in number, where∣of the chiefest is called Santa Maria. The extent of the City comprehendeth better than a mile and a half in length, and above a mile in breadth. The Houses for the most part are three stories in heighth. It is well walled round about, with two Gates belonging thereunto, excepting on∣ly where a Creek cometh into the City, the which at high-water letteth in Barks, to furnish the Inhabitants with all sorts of Provisions and other Necessaries. Here are al∣ways

Three hundred of the Kings Souldiers to Garrison the City; besides which number, their Militia of all colours, are one thousand one hundred. But at the time that we arrived there, most of their Souldiers were out of Town; insomuch, that our coming put the rest into great conster∣nation, they having had but one nights notice of our be∣ing in those Seas▪ Hence we were induced to believe, that had we gone ashoar, instead of fighting their ships, we had certainly rendred our selves masters of the place; especial∣ly considering, that all their chief men were on board the Ad••iral; I mean, such as were undoubtedly the best Soul∣diers. Round about the City, for the space of seven Leagues, more or less, all the adjacent Country is Savana, as they call it in the Spanish Language, that is to say, plain and level ground, as smooth as a sheet; for this is the signifi∣cation of the word Savana. Only here and there is to be seen a small spot of woody Land; and every where this level ground is full of Vacadas, or Beef Stantions, where whole droves of Cows and Oxen are kept, which serve as well as so many Look-outs, or Watch-Towers, to descry if an Enemy is approaching by land. The ground whereon the City standeth, is very damp and moist, which rendreth the place but of bad repute for the concern of health. The water is also very full of worms, and these are much prejudi∣cial to shipping; which is the cause that the Kings Ships lye always at Lima, the Capital City of Peru, unless when they come down to Panama to bring the Kings Plate; which is only at such times, as the Fleet of Galeones cometh from Old Spain to fetch and convey it thither. Here in one night after our arrival, we found Worms of three quarters of an inch in length, both in our Bed-cloaths and other Appa∣rel.

* 1.2 At the Island of Perico above-mentioned, we seized in all five ships. Of these, the first and biggest was named, as was said before, the Trinidad, and was a great ship, of the burthen of four hundred Tuns.* 1.3 Her lading consisted of Wine, Sugar, Sweet-meats, (whereof the Spaniards in those

hot Countreys make infinite use) Skins, and Soap. The second ship was of about Three hundred Tuns burthen, and not above half laded with bars of Iron, which is one of the richest Commodities that are brought into the South Sea. This vessel we burned with the lading in her, because the Spaniards pretended not to want that Commodity, and therefore would not redeem it. The third was laden with Sugar, being of the burthen of one hundred and fourscore Tuns, more or less. This vessel was given to be under the Command of Captain Cook. The fourth was an old ship of sixty Tuns burthen, which was laden with slower of Meal. This ship we likewise burnt with her lading; esteem∣ing both bottom and Cargo, at that time, to be useless unto us. The fifth was a ship of Fifty Tuns, the which, with a Periagua, Captain Coxon took along with him when he left us.

Within two or three days after our arrival at Panama,* 1.4 Captain Coxon being much dissatisfied with some reflections which had been made upon him by our company, deter∣mined to leave us, and return back to our ships in the Nor∣thern Seas, by the same way he came thither. Unto this effect, he perswaded several of our company, who sided most with him, and had had the chiefest hand in his Electi∣on, to fall off from us, and bear him company in his jour∣ney, or march over-land. The main cause of those re∣flexions, was the backwardness in the last Engagement with the Armadilla; concerning which point, some stick∣ed not to defame, or brand him, with the note of Cowar∣dize. He drew off with him, to the number of threescore and ten of our men, who all returned back with him in the Ship and Periagua above-mentioned, towards the mouth of the River of Santa Maria. In his company also went back the Indian King, Captain Antonio, and Don Andraeas, who being old, desired to be excused from staying any longer with us. However, the King desired we would not be less vigourous in annoying their enemy and ours, the Spaniards, than if he were personally present with us.

And to the intent we might see how faithfully he did in∣tend to deal with us, he at the same time recommended both his Son and Nephew unto the care of Captain Saw∣kins▪* 1.5 who was now our newly chosen General, or Comman∣der in chief, in the absence of Captain Sharp. The two Armadilla Ships which we took in the Engagement we burnt also, saving no other thing of them both, but their Rigg••ng▪ and Sails With them also we burnt a small Bark, which came into the Port laden with Fowls and Poul∣try▪

On Sunday, whi••h was April the 25th, Captain Sharp with his Bark and Company came in and joyned us again.* 1.6 H••s absence was occasioned by want of water, which forced him to bear up to the Kings Islands. Being there, he found a new Bark,* 1.7 which he presently took, and burnt his old one. This vessel did sail excellently well. Within a day or two after the arrival of Captain Sharp, came in likewise the people of Captain Harris, who were still absent. These had also taken another Bark,* 1.8 and cut down the Masts of their old one by the board, and thus without Masts or Sails turned away the Prisoners they had taken in her. The next day we took in like manner another Bark,* 1.9 which ar∣rived from Nata, being laden with Fowls, as before. In this Bark we turned away all the meanest of the Prisoners we had on board us.

* 1.10Having continued before Panama for the space of ten days, being employed in the affairs afore-mentioned, on May the second we weighed from the Island of Perico, and stood off to another Island, distant two Leagues farther from thence, called Tavoga. On this Island standeth a Town which beareth the same name, and consisteth of a hundred houses, more or less. The people of the Town were all sled, seeing our vessels to arrive. Mean while we were here, some of our men being drunk on shoar, hapned to set ••ire unto one of the Houses, the which consumed twelve houses more before any could get ashoar to quench it. Unto this Island came several Spanish Merchants from

Panama, and sold us what Commodities we needed, buying also of us much of the goods we had taken in their own vessels. They gave us likewise two hundred pieces of Eight for each Negro we could spare them of such as were our prisoners. From this Island we could easily see all the Vessels that went out, or came into the Port of Panama; and here we took likewise several Barks that were laden with Fowls.

Eight days after our arrival at Tavoga, we took a ship that was coming from Truxillo, and bound for Panama.* 1.11 In this vessel we found two thousand Jars of Wine, fifty Jars of Gunpowder, and fifty one thousand pieces of Eight. This money had been sent from that City, to pay the Sol∣diers belonging to the Garison of Panama. From the said Prize we had information given us, that there was another ship coming from Lima with one hundred thousand pieces of Eight more; which ship was to sail ten or twelve days after them, and which they said could not be long before she arrived at Panama. Within two days after this intelligence,* 1.12 we took also another ship laden with Flower from Truxillo, belonging unto certain Indians, Inhabitants of the same place, or thereabouts. This Prize confirmed what the first had told us of that rich ship, and said, as the others had done before, that she would be there in the space of eight or ten days.

Mean while we lay at Tavoga, the President, that is to say, the Governour of Panama,* 1.13 sent a Message by some Merchants unto us, to know what we came for into those parts? Unto this Message Captain Sawkins made answer, That we came to assist the King of Darien, who was the true Lord of Panama, and all the Country thereabouts.* 1.14 And that since we were come so far, it was no reason but that we should have some satisfaction. So that if he pleased to send us five hundred pieces of Eight for each man, and one thousand for each Commander, and not any farther to annoy the Indians, but suffer them to use their own power and liberty, as became the true and natural Lords of the Country, that then we would

desist from all farther Hostilities, and go away peaceably; other∣wise that we should stay there, and get what we could, causing unto them what damage was possible. By the Merchants also that went and came to Panama, we understood, there lived then us Bishop of Panama, one who had been formerly Bi∣shop of Santa Martha, and who was Prisoner unto Captain Sawkins, when he took the said place about four or five years past. The Captain having received this intelligence, sent two loaves of Sugar unto the Bishop as a present. On the next day the Merchant who carryed them, returning to Tavoga, brought unto the Captain a golden ring for a reta∣liation of said present. And withal, he brought a mes∣sage to Captain Sawkins from the President above-mentio∣ned, to know farther of him, since we were Englishmen, from whom we had our Commission, and to whom he ought to complain for the damages we had already done them? Unto this Message Captain Sawkins sent back for an answer, That as yet all his company were not come together; but that when they were come up we would come and visit him at Panama, and bring our Commissions on the muzzles of our Guns, at which time he should read them as plain as the flame of Gunpowder could make them.

* 1.15At this Island of Tavoga, Captain Sawkins would sain have stayed longer, to wait for the rich Ship above-men∣tioned, that was coming from Peru; but our men were so importunate for fresh Victuals, that no reason could rule them, nor their own interest perswade them to any thing that might conduce unto this purpose. Hereupon, on May the 15th we weighed Anchor, and sailed from thence unto the Island of Otoque. Being arrived there, we lay by it, mean while our Boat went ashoar, and fetcht off Fowls, and Hogs, and other things necessary for sustenance. Here at Otoque I finished a draught, comprehending from point Garachine, unto the Bay of Panama, &c. Of this I may dare to affirm, that it is in general more correct and true, than any the Spaniards have themselves. For which cause I have here inserted it, for the satisfaction of those that are curious in such things.

From Otoque we sailed to the Island of Cayboa,* 1.16 which is a place very famous for the fishery of Pearl thereabouts; and is at the distance of eight Leagues from another place called Puebla Nueba, on the Main. In our way to this Island, we lost two of our Barks, the one whereof had fifteen men in her, and the other seven. Being arrived, we cast anchor at the said Island.

[illustration]

The Bay of Panama and Gulf of Ballona

Notes

• * 1.1

  Present state of Panama.
• * 1.2

  Number of 〈…〉〈…〉 Panama.
• * 1.3

  〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• * 1.4

  Captain Cox∣on mutineth, and returneth home.
• * 1.5

  Captain Saw∣kins ch••sen.
• * 1.6

  〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• * 1.7

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 taken.
• * 1.8

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 Bark taken.
• * 1.9

  A third Bark taken.
• * 1.10

  They go to the Isl. of Tavoga.
• * 1.11

  A good Prize taken.
• * 1.12

  Another Pri••e.
• * 1.13

  A message from the Presi∣dent of Pana∣ma.
• * 1.14

  The answer unto it.
• * 1.15

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 go to the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Otoque.
• * 1.16

  And thence to Cayboa.