A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.

A New Voyage TO THE LEVANT.

LETTER I.

SIR,

I must beg leave to complain of the hardness of the Task you impose upon me, by requi∣ring me to give you an exact Relation of our present Campaign, with the Description of those Cities in Germany which I shall have oc∣casion to visit; but neither the Troublesomness of such a Correspondence, nor the Sence of my own Unfitness to Manage it, shall make me decline an Undertaking by which I may convince you of my extream desire to obtain the honour of your Friendship, and to secure my self in the Possession of it beyond the danger or fear of any future Alteration.

I shall begin, then, with acquainting you, that we were about eight Days ago quarter'd in a City call'd Spire, which is now a heap of Stones:

The Inhabitants have been threaten'd these three Months, with the execution of that fatal Design of reducing the City to Ashes, and during that time liv'd in a cruel Uncertainty, and perpetual Fear of their impending Ruine. Spire was situa∣ted in the Palatinate of the Rhine, call'd of old Ni∣metum, and its Inhabitants Nimetes; it was the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, compos'd of two Presidents, one a Catholick, and the other a Prote∣stant; and fifteen Counsellors, eight of the Ro∣mish, and seven of the other Persuasion. The E∣lector of Triers held the Bishoprick of that City, the Sovereignty of which is extended over seve∣ral fine Territories; and among the rest, Philipsburg, which the Emperor was oblig'd to restore to that Prelate, by the Treaty concluded with France at Triers, in 1685. The Cathedral was a large and fine Structure, well furnish'd with Lights, and a∣dorn'd with great Pyramidal Towers at the four Corners. On the Right-side of the Church stood the Episcopal Palace, famous for its Architecture, and enrich'd on the Inside with a great variety of fine Pictures; and on the other side was the House of the Canons, with a very ancient Cloyster, in the middle of which there was a Mount of O∣lives cut in the Rock, esteem'd to be a Ma∣ster-piece of Sculpture. Before the Church there was a great Court or void Space, capable of con∣taining 10000 Men drawn up in Battalia. All the Houses that surrounded it were well built, especially that of the Jesuits, which fronted the Bishop's Palace, where those Fathers had a very curious Library of above 6000 Volumes, which was consum'd in the general Conflagration of the City; with five or six others belonging to private Persons that were no less considerable. The Inhabitants of Spire were Rich, and lovers of Pleasure: The City was surrounded with a great

number of Gardens abundantly furnish'd with eve∣ry thing that might contribute to the Advantage and Pleasure of the Owners; for besides the Beau∣ty of the Orange-Trees which were preserv'd there notwithstanding the Coldness of the Climate; and the various Ornaments of cover'd and open'd Walks, Flowers, Water-Works, and Statues; there was a great abundance of all sorts of Fruit-Trees. Every Garden had also the convenience of a Plea∣sure-House, very handsomly built, and all over Painted and Gilt after the German Fashion, in which the Gentlemen of Spire pass'd the time with a great deal of Satisfaction, some in Drinking, and others in more charming Diversions. The Town-House was famous for its Antiquity, which was said to amount to above twelve Ages since its first Foun∣dation, but had nothing else to recommend it to the Observation of Travellers. Before the Gate there hung on an Iron-Ring, a Bone of an Arm, which equall'd a Thigh-Bone in bigness, and was proportionably long. 'Tis affirm'd in the Records of the City, that the Man to whom that Bone belong'd, whose Name was Olps, was twen∣ty five Foot high, and that he was kill'd about 1300 Years agoe in a Siege against the Town, the Ladder breaking under him as he was scaling the Walls; which gave a fair Opportunity to the Besieg'd to rid themselves of so formidable an E∣nemy, by pouring whole Hogsheads of boiling Pitch upon him. His Hip-Bone was also preser∣ved in the great Hall, which I have often seen, without giving much credit to the Story; for tis hard to conceive, that a Man of such a Gi∣gantine Stature cou'd have escap'd the Obsrvati∣on of Historians.

To return to Spire; The City was taken by the Dauphin about the end of the last Year, (when he made himself Master of Philipsburg)

and was immediately put under Contribution; and besides, 6000 Men were quarter'd in it during the Winter, which made the Inhabitants believe they had already suffer'd the severest Effects of their Enemies Fury. But they were extremely surpriz'd, when in the last Spring they were com∣manded to raise 60000 Crowns, under pain of Burning. This rigorous Order cou'd not be exe∣cuted without reducing 'em to Beggary; for Money was already very scarce in the City, and yet those Wretches put themselves to the ut∣most stretch to raise the Summ; which they had no sooner paid, but the Baron de Monclair caus'd a Proclamation to be publish'd with Sound of Trumpet, commanding all the Inhabitants to re∣tire with their Goods, because the Town was to be burnt on the 5th. Day after the publishing of the Order. And to add to the Cruelty of their Punishment, they were not suffer'd to pass the Rhine, where they might have found some Assi∣stance among their Friends and Relations, but were forc'd to retire to Alsace, among the French, who treated them like so many Beasts, without the least Mark of Humanity or Compassion. Af∣ter all these Severities, they might have found some Consolation even in the extremity of their Affliction, if they had been furnish'd with Wag∣gons for the Transportation of their Goods; but they were not to expect the least Favour, and were oblig'd to hire Waggons of the Peasants and Sut∣lers, who, taking Advantage of their Necessity, made 'em pay such excessive Rates, that they were forc'd to leave the greatest part of their Goods for want of Carriage. In that time of Extremity I heard some of those miserable Creatures offer fifteen Crowns a-day for the use of a Horse, that might have been bought for a smaller Summ. Never any Man beheld so touching an

Object as was occasion'd by the Grief and Con∣sternation that cover'd every Face in this unfortu∣nate City, at the publishing of the Burning-Or∣der. Our Eyes and Ears were every where salu∣ted with Tears and Lamentations; the Women especially mov'd the hardest Hearts with Com∣passion, their Despair making 'em tear their Hair, and strike their Heads against the Wall.

At last the fatal Term being expir'd, they were forc'd to bid a lasting Farewel to the City, and with it to almost all their Goods and Possessions. Then their Lamentations began afresh, and their Despair appear'd more visibly than e∣ver; nor was it possible for any Heart that was not entirely divested of all sence of Humanity, to resist the Motions of Compassion that were excited at the sight of so deplorable an Object. Noblemen, Tradesmen, the Poor and the Rich, began their doleful March, without any Mark of Distinction, all equally Miserable; with this only difference, that the Rich were more sensi∣ble of their Misfortunes than those whose Po∣verty secur'd 'em from the danger of considera∣ble Losses. I'm still fill'd with Horrour as often as I reflect on that dismal Spectacle; and I'm confident you wou'd not be less deeply touch'd with a sence of the irrecoverable Ruine of so many innocent Persons, if you had been an Eye-Witness of it. You cou'd not have beheld, with∣out feeling almost the same Transports of Sor∣row, two or three hundred Noble-women and Citizens Wives walking on foot in the midst of an Infinite Crowd of People, and most of 'em fol∣low'd by five or six small Children, some of 'em hanging at the Mother's Breast, not knowing where to shelter themselves during the Night, nor where to find necessary Refreshment and Sustenance for their weary'd Bodies; for the ex∣cessive

Contributions that were exacted from 'em, had so drain'd their Purses, that three quarters of 'em were not Masters of one Peny; and those who had the happiness to preserve the Remain∣ders of their Money, had hid it under-ground, for fear of being robb'd by the Soldiers on the Road, as several of 'em were who had not us'd that Precaution.

After their Departure, the Town was abandon'd for two Days to the Mercy of the Soldiers, who committed a Thousand Sacrileges; for hoping to find some hidden Treasures, they threw down the Altars, dig'd up dead Bodies, and rif••••d the most Ancient and Venerable Tombs, without sparing those of an Emperour, and several great Princes and Prelates that were in the Cathedral, which they turn'd to a Stable.

After all these Violences, the appointed Day for the final destruction of the City being come, the Troops were encampt, and 200 Men, each with a lighted Torch in his Hand, were Com∣manded to set fire to the Houses; so that in less than half a Day the Town was entirely consum'd, and the last Day of May 1689, was the last of that Ancient City. And lest the Fire shou••d be too merciful, the King order'd it to be after∣wards demolish'd, and 1000 Soldiers are actually employ'd in levelling it with the Ground. They will find some difficulty in executing their Fu∣ry on the great Church, by reason of the unu∣sual thickness of the Walls, which are all built of ••ewn Stone; yet the strength of that noble Edifice cannot prevent its Ruine; for lest the Germans shou'd afterwards lodge themselves in it, 'tis resolv'd to blow it up with a Mine. The House of the Jesuits resisted all the Endeavours of the Demolishers for two or three Days; but they were well paid for their Labour with two Treasures

[illustration]

Places burnt•• by the French

which they found, one of 8000 Livres of coin'd Silver, hidden under-ground; and the other, which probably belong'd to some Citizens, who had in∣trusted it to those Reverend Fathers, consisting of Plate to the Value of 9 or 10000 Francks, in Iron Coffers, lying under a heap of Books. You wou'd hardly give Credit to my Relation, if I shou'd undertake to give you a particular Account of the prodigious quantity of Wine that was wasted on this Occasion; for there was a sufficient Store of that Liquor in Spire to furnish such a City as Paris above a Month: And besides, it was of the most excellent sorts, all near eight Years old at least; and even some of the richest Citizens usually kept it twelve Years, preserving it in large Casks, many of which contain'd 100 Hogsheads. I'm persuaded that no other City in the World cou'd boast of so fine and so numerous Cellars, as Spire; they were deep, large, and well vault∣ed with great Pillars that sustain'd the whole weight of the Houses and Streets; so that they seem'd to be Subterraneous Temples, consecrated to the God Bacchus. The Citizen with whom I lodg'd had a very stately one, which contain'd 100 Casks, such as those I have already describ'd, full of the most excellent sorts of Wine. I never visited this well-stor'd Cellar, but I thought on our dear N—, and wish'd his Company, plea∣sing my self with the Thought, how nobly I cou'd have regal'd him, especially with one Cask of Wine fifteen Years old, that was highly pri∣zed by all my Friends, tho', for my part, I must confess, that Champagne is infinitely more agree∣able to me; and I willingly leave all those Gross-body'd Wines to the Germans, whose Heads are strong enough to bear 'em. My Landlord, M. Creps, was a very rich Man, he had very fine Houses at Worms, ••ranckendal, and Spire, besides a small

Office in the Imperial Chamber, which in all yielded him above 15000 Livres a Year, yet by a deplorable Turn of Fortune, he lost his whole Estate in less than three Months, and is fall'n so extremely poor, that he is forc'd at present to sell Brandy in our Army, and resolves to con∣tinue that Trade during the rest of the Cam∣pagne.

While we are busi'd in demolishing Spire, the Queen's Regiment, and some others, are employ'd in the same Exercise at Manheim, a small City built by Charles Lewis, Elector Palatine, who had the conveniency of contriving the Fortifications as he pleas'd. All the Houses were exactly uni∣form, and the four Gates might be seen at once from the Place of Arms in the midst of the Town. This was so important and advantage∣ous a Post, that Monsieur Vauban said one Day to the King, That whatever Prince was Master of Manheim and Philipsburg, might at once main∣tain a War against his Majesty and the Empe∣rour. The Baroness of Aiguenfeld, the second Wife, or (if you will) the Mistress of that Ele∣ctor, was buri••d in this City: And our Soldiers not only broke open her Tomb, but threw her Bones without the Walls. The Dutchess of Or∣leans pretends to have receiv'd several ill Offices from that Lady; but I'm the less inclinable to think that she was accessory to such an inhuman Action, when I consider her Kindness to the Rho∣graves, that Barone••s's Children. Worms, Franken∣dal, Ladenburg, Openheim, and Keidiscum, are under the same Sentence that has been executed on Manheim and Spire: But since I never was in any of those Places, I cannot gratifie your Curiosity with an exact Description of 'em, only I can inform you that they were considerable Towns, and that they are either already demolish'd, or

will be quickly reduc'd to such a Condition, that all that can be henceforth said of 'em is, Here stood Worms, Spire, Manheim, &c.

These, Sir, are all the remarkable Transactions with which I can at present acquaint you;

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

From the Camp at Spire, June 1689.

LETTER II.

SIR,

I Hope this Letter will in some measure atone for my long Silence, and convince you that my Neglect was not the only Cause of my not writing to you once every Month, according to your Desire: For I concluded that a compleat Relation of the Compaign wou'd be a more ac∣ceptable Present to you, than if I had sent you from time to time some interrupted and ill-con∣nected Accounts of it. Besides, I was so little Master of my Time during the whole Month of August, that you cannot with Justice refuse to put a less severe Construction on my Silence: And I'm confident that after you have read the Account of my Misfortunes in the beginning of this Month, you will esteem me a fitter Object of your Compassion than Anger. Perhaps you little expected to hear of my Confinement to a close Prison for fifteen Days; but I can assure you, that if the Marquess D'Efiat had not vouch∣saf'd me his Protection, and clear'd me of all

my suspected Crimes, in a Letter to Monsieur de Chamilly, for ought I know, I might have been still in the same Condition. But before I give you a particular Account of that Accident, the Order of time obliges me to entertain you with a Relation of our Warlike Expeditions.

While our Army, in July, lay quiet, the Ele∣ctor of Brandenburg attack'd and took Keiserwaert: And we were afterwards inform'd, that, not content with that Success, he sate down before Bonn; and that Mentz was invested by the Dukes of Bavaria and Lorrain, with an Army of Seventy thousand Men, which oblig'd us to make a Diversion in the Palatinate: And that Design was executed with so much Fury and Cruelty, that Posterity will hardly ever give credit to that part of the History of our Age. We pass••d the Rhine at Philips••urg on a Bridge of Boats, in the beginning of August. I need not tell you that this City was surrender'd to the Dauphin on his Birth-day (Novemb. 1.) which he render'd famous by his first Conquest: But I cannot forbear do∣ing Justice to the Bravery and Greatness of Mind which he shew'd on that Occasion. For he was everywhere present, and neither gave his Orders by Proxy, nor suffer'd any thing to be done without his Knowledge. Philipsburg is a very in∣considerable Town, scarce able to contain a nu∣merous Garison, nor can it boast of one remark∣able House, but that which belongs to the Go∣vernour. But, notwithstanding those Defects, 'tis a place of great importance, both by reason of its Situation between the Rhine and a large and deep Marsh, and its numerous Fortifications. There was a Redoubt on the other side of the Rhine to defend the Passage of the River, which the Dauphin took in two Days: But there are so many new Works added, that it may be call'd

more properly a considerable Fort than a sim∣ple Redoubt. The next Day we encamp'd be∣fore Heydelberg, which we invested on the side next the Rhine. This City was part of our last Year's Conquests, and had paid Contributions two or three times. Some of our Troops had their Winter-Quarters in it, and possess'd it with∣out the least Disturbance till the Spring, when by an unaccountable sort of Policy, we blew up the Castle, and left the Town (I think) on pur∣pose that we might have the pleasure of Besieging it two Months after: For you must not imagine because the Trenches were not open'd, that the Siege was never really intended, since 'tis plain from reason that we sate down before it with that design, because we cou'd not have chosen a more probable way to divert the Imperial Forces: And besides, 'tis certain that Monsieur de Duras had given Orders for a general Assault the Day on which the Place was reliev'd by a Detach∣ment of 3000 Men, who enter'd the Town with several Boats laden with Ammunition, and all sorts of necessary Provisions. However, our Ar∣my, consisting of 25000 Men, with 45 Pieces of Cannon, lay seven Days before it, during which time we lost 8 or 900 good Soldiers, besides se∣veral Officers; and were at last forc'd to leave a defenceless Town, that might have been storm'd with Sword in Hand the first Night we sate down before it: For we had already ruin'd those inconsiderable Fortifications that defended it, be∣fore we left it in the Spring: And at the same time we blew up the Castle, or at least the best part of it, in which alone the strength of the Place consisted. Nevertheless all its Defects might have been corrected by an industrious Master: And besides, it must be acknowledg'd to be a Place of great Importance, if we consider the

Advantages of its Situation; for it wou'd have open'd a Passage on the Neckar, and made us Masters of the whole Country as far as Franckfort.

Heydelberg is the Chief City of the Palatinate of the Rhine, seated on the Neckar, in a Bottom betwixt two Hills. The Castle where the Electors formerly resided, stands on a Hillock that commands the Town, and has the Advantage of a lovely, but of late neglected Garden. The Strangers that pass'd thro' this City never fail'd to pay a Visit to the famous Tun, of above a hundred Years standing, and were usually receiv'd with the ••••llkom▪ which is a Glass containing about two Quarts. The French, who quarter'd here during the Winter, were so sensible of the Charms of that hospitable Vessel, that they left not one Drop in it, tho' it contain'd above 300 Hogsheads of Wine. Near the City there is a fair Church, consisting of three several Vaults, under which the Catholicks, Lutherans, and Calvi∣nists perform Divine Service. It was built by Charles Lewis, Elector Palatine, who nam'd it The Temple of Concord, to put his Subjects in mind that their Temporal Safety depended on their Union; and that a diversity of Interests was not a necessary Consequence of Difference in Religion. This City was formerly Mistress of one of the finest Libraries in the World, which she possess'd till the Year 1622, when Count Tilly having ta∣ken the City, sent part of the Books to Rome, while the rest were dispers'd like those of Alexan∣dria, to the irreparable Loss of the learned World; since no other Library contain'd so numerous a Collection of rare Manuscripts.

The City being secur••d by a seasonable Re∣lief from our intended Assault, we decamp'd on the 9th. before Day, and having march'd two Leagues, arriv••d about eight a-clock at the little Town of Wiseloch, which we burnt in our Pas∣sage,

after we had thrust out the Inhabitants. Sinsennes, and several other Villages, met with the same Treatment from our Dragoons, who were always entrusted with these fiery Commissions. These Ministers of our Fury allow'd no longer respite to the Places they were order'd to destroy, than what might give 'em leisure to plunder the best Effects of the Inhabitants, ravish their Wives and Daughters, and commit a thousand other Disor∣ders. The Fame of our Cruelties was quickly spread over the Countries of Wirtemberg and Baden, and drove away all the Inhabitants of the Towns and Villages to which we approach'd; who fled from us as from the Enemies and Destroyers of Man∣kind, endeavouring to save their Lives in the Woods and Forests, where many of 'em seeking to avoid one kind of Death, met with another no less terri∣ble, and chose rather to be starv'd than kill'd; so that from hence-forward during our whole March, we found not one Person, either in the Towns or Country thro' which we pass'd. On∣ly Weingarten and Bruchsal pretended to stop our Career; but two Days after they were constrain'd to Surrender, and both the Garrisons and Inhabi∣tants were made Prisoners of War, and the Towns were treated with the same Severity with those that were formerly mention'd, by the Troops that enter'd into 'em. At the same time Monsieur de Boufflers, who commanded a Flying Camp, came before a little Town call'd Cocheim, in which there was a Garrison of 600 Men, and fearing least the Place shou'd be reliev'd, immediately gave Or∣ders for an Assault, which was carry'd on and receiv'd with equal Vigour and Bravery. The Action lasted two Hours, after which our Men were oblig'd to retire; but the Major, who com∣manded in the Town, contenting himself with so remarkable a Success, and concluding that the

Courage of the French Troops was so well cool'd, that they wou'd hardly venture to return to a place where they had met with so rough a Treat∣ment, instead of taking Measures to prevent a Surprize, went to recruit his Spirits after so hot an Action, with a Glass of his beloved Wine: In the mean time Monsieur de Boufflers, upon a Signal which was made to him by some Tray∣tors in the Town, commanded his Dragoons to renew the Attack, which they did with greater Vigour than before, and storming the Town, ran to the place of Arms, with their Swords in their Hands, where they found the Garrison drawn up in Battalia, whom they put to the Sword, not allowing them the benefit of Quarter. The Slaughter lasted three Hours, during which, Men, Women, and Children were kill'd without Mer∣cy: Nor could the Fury of the Soldiers be stopp'd till the General had by repeated Orders com∣manded 'em to put an end to the Massacre. They were Masters of the Art of squeezing Mo∣ney even out of those who had none, which they had learn'd in France, at the expence of the poor Protestants; and here they display'd all their Skill, using the Inhabitants with the utmost Bar∣barity, to make 'em discover their Treasures. From thence Monsieur de Boufflers, continuing his March and his Cruelties, burnt entirely the Towns of Keyseresch, Dhonu, Hellesheim, Meyem, Ul∣man, Kerpen, and all the other Cities and Villages of that Country, which oblig'd the Elector of Brandenburg to detach 10000 Men, under the com∣mand of General Schonen, to give him Battle; but that Unfaithful Officer communicated the Orders he had receiv'd to the Marquess de Boufflers, who immediately retir'd to Philipsburg.

In the mean time we were no less careful than Boufflers's Dragoons to act the part of brave Incendiaries, and continu'd our March from Bruch∣sal to ••aden and Durlach, where we found the Ware-Houses, Shops, and Houses full of Commo∣dities and Furniture, but altogether void of In∣habitants, who were taught by the Misfortunes of their Neighbours, not to expect our Visit. The Pillage lasted two Days; after which the Cities were set on Fire, after the laudable Cu∣stom of this Campaign.

Baden is situated in Suabia, and gives the Title of Marquess to a Family, the Head of which is a Prince of the Empire on a double Account, both by his Birth, which is Ancient and Illustri∣ous, and by his Principality, which gives him a Voice in the Diets of the Empire. The Town was Rich, embellish'd with fine Houses, fair Streets, and lovely Gardens; and besides had the Ad∣vantage of the most remarkable Baths in Europe. The Princess of Baden left no means on her side to preserve their City; she sollicited the Gene∣ral and the King himself, and offer'd to demo∣lish the Walls; but all her Endeavours cou'd not procure the least Mitigation of its Doom, and Baden was laid in Ashes, as well as its Neigh∣bouring Towns.

Four Leagues from hence lay Durlach, call'd in Latine, Durlacum, which gives some Title of Ho∣nour, to the Younger Branch of the House of Baden, who have also a Voice in the Diets. It was in my Opinion a larger and fairer Town than Baden, inha∣bited by several rich Merchants, and a considerable number of Persons of Quality, and adorn'd with ma∣ny magnificent Structures, which I had not time to consider at leisure, before the fatal Sentence was executed upon 'em. The Castle particularly was a stately Edifice; a magnificent Portal open'd a Pas∣sage

into a vast Court; from whence we ascended by a broad Stair-Case, to a large Hall, out of which you might pass into the Apartments appointed for Winter and Summer, and all the other Seasons. The Furniture of all these Apartments was very rich, and well-contriv'd, at least as far as I cou'd judge by what was left; for the most precious Part of it, with all the Plate, was remov'd; only there remain'd se∣veral Pieces of very fine Tapestry richly Wrought, Embroider'd Silk Beds of great Value, and some of Gold and Silver; Tables and Cabinets of China-Work, Looking-Glasses, magnificent Lamps of Chrystal, and several other Ornaments of the same Nature; which inspir'd the Beholder with a great Idea of the Richness of that part of the Furniture which was remov'd. The Platfond of the Library was enrich'd with Gilding and very curious Paintings, and it contain'd between four and five thousand Vo∣lumes; adjoining to this were two Cabinets full of Papers rank'd from top to bottom in very good Order. The dispositions of the Gardens were suita∣ble to the Beauty of the House, and the Eye was every where saluted with Objects of Pleasure; but all those Beauties were consum'd by the merciless Fire, and reduc'd to a few Heaps of Ashes, and dismal Ruines. During our abode here, the Germans, who had made a Detachment of Two or Three thou∣sand Men to disturb us, took some of our Men, with Two hundred Horses that were Forraging in the Country. They had done the same at Sinsennes, and besides a terrible Sickness made such a prodigious Havock among our Troops, that when we arriv'd at Strasburg we were forc'd to send above Six thou∣sand Men to the Hospital, which lessen'd our Army to such a Degree, that the Number of those who were render'd useless by the Sickness, with those who were kill'd at Heydelberg, Bruch••al, and Wein∣garten amounted to 11000 Men, of which there

were at least 5000 dead, without reckoning above 1000 Horses, that were either taken from us, or dy'd by the Way; for the ill Weather that had last∣ed during the whole Campaign, had so weaken'd and spoil'd 'em, that only such who were very well mounted were Masters of a Horse fit for Service.

To return to our March; We decamp'd from Durlach, and leaving Fort-Lewis on our Right-hand, which is a strong and well-fortify'd Place, built by the King's Order, we arriv'd before Stolof, the only Town that escap'd the utmost Marks of our Fury; for the Magistrates, to appease Monsieur de Duras, presented him with the Summ of 50000 Crowns, which prevail'd so far on his good Nature, that he contented himself with ordering the Town to be pillag'd, and the Walls to be demolish'd. Two days after we arriv'd near Strasburg, where I was constrain'd to leave the Army, in a manner that was not very agreeable to my Humour. I was struck with so much Horrour, when I reflected on the Barbarities, and the Desolation of so many Towns of which I had been an Eye-witness, and sometimes an In∣strument, that I cou'd not forbear expressing my Indignation, and was therefore look'd upon as a suspicious Person by some of our most resolute Burners. It happen'd one day, that being en∣gag'd in a pretty warm Dispute with some Offi∣cers that were none of my best Friends, at the General's Quarters, I handl'd those nice Points with a great deal of Freedom, and plainly told 'em my Opinion of the Revolution in England, and of the Difference between King William's Way of making War, and that which was in Fashion among us. So bold a Declaration of my Senti∣ments, procur'd me the Title of the Prince of Orange's Spy; and Complaints were made against me to the Count de Marsin, Commander of the Brigade, who order'd me to be apprehended, and

carry'd to Strasburg; tho' I must own my self ob∣lig'd to him, that he forbore putting me in the Mercy of a Council of War, till he shou'd receive a clearer Information of my Crime; in order to which he commanded my Trunks to be seiz'd, where he found nothing to confirm his Suspicions, but a Book of Psalms, which was a sufficient Demon∣stration (of what I did not deny) that I had been a Hugonot. But the Marquess d' Efiat had the Gene∣rosity (as I told you before) to give me so favour∣able a Character in a Letter which he wrote to Monsieur de Chamilly on this Occasion, that I was set at Liberty after an Imprisonment of fifteen Days, without any other Punishment, than that I was oblig'd to hear the tedious Exhortations of certain Jesuits and Capuchins, to whom I promis'd to be a Good Catholick for the future.

We are inform'd that Mentz was surrender'd on the 8th. instant, notwithstanding the brave Resi∣stance made by the Marquess d' Uxelles, Governour of the Place, who perform'd on this occasion, all that cou'd be expected from a Man of Courage and an experienc'd Captain; and defended a Place which is not very considerable for its Strength, against a nu∣merous Army commanded by two Princes, on whom, without running the hazard of being accus'd of Flattery, I may bestow the glorious Title of He∣roes. 'Tis true he lost a great number of Men; but none that are acquainted with Affairs of this Na∣ture, will be surpriz'd at the lessening of the Numbers of a Garrison that turn the War upon their Besiegers, and make three vigorous Sallies in one Day. The most considerable Loss they sustain'd, was occasion'd by the general Assault of the Counterscarp, on the 7th. instant in the Evening, which lasted five Hours, and was both carry'd on, and receiv'd with such an obstinate Fury, that few old Soldiers can pretend to have seen so warm a Dispute. But at last the Be∣sieg'd

were forc'd to retire, their Powder failing, and most of their Musquets being split; and the Imperialists lodg'd themselves on the Counterscarp, and began to fill up the Ditch, in order to assault the Town, which oblig'd the Governour to beat a Par∣ley, and Capitulate. The Garrison march'd out with their Arms and Baggage, Drums beating, Colours flying, Matches lighted, and their Bullets in their Mouths, with six Pieces of Cannon, and two Mor∣tars. I hear the King was so well satisfi'd with the Marquess d' Uxelles's Conduct on this Occasion, that he thought he ow'd him no less a Recompence for making so brave a Defence, than the Government of Luxemburg, which is one of the most important Places in his Dominions, besides a Gratuity of 1200 Crowns, which he has already receiv'd. Nor cou'd his Majesty have chosen a more deserving Object of his Favour; for the Marquess d' Uxelles is not only an excellent Captain, but in all other respects a well-accomplish'd Person. I never heard that he was accus'd of any other Crimes, but Haughtiness to his Inferiour Officers, and an Inclination to cer∣tain Pleasures that were brought into Fashion about 20 or 30 Years ago: but I am so far from pre∣tending to warrant the Truth of these Accusations, that I must confess I believe 'em to be meer malici∣ous Aspersions.

We have also receiv'd Advice, That Bonn is very much straiten'd; so that if the King lose that Place, he will only retain Philipsburg, of all the Conquests his Son made last Year.

In the mean time I must tell you, with all the sincerity of a Friend, that my late unjust Impri∣sonment has mightily cool'd my Affection to the French Service; and besides, as young as I am, my Thoughts aspire sometimes to more solid Objects than bare Pleasure. I'm e'en resolv'd then in good earnest to encrease the number of the Refugees; and

I'm not a little confirm'd in that Resolution, by a seasonable supply of Money I have just now receiv'd. I have no other Business at present, than to put things in Order for my Departure; intending to begin my Journey in few Days, on the only Horse I'm now Master of, for my Servant carry'd away the other two, which was my whole Equipage. I design in the first place to visit Geneva, and there to expect a fresh Re∣cruit of Money, before I begin my remoter Travels.

I remember I have heard you express a de∣sire to be more particularly acquainted with Strasburg, than the Accounts you have hitherto receiv'd of it cou'd make you; and therefore I shall take this Occasion to satisfie your Curiosity before I finish my Letter.

Strasburg is a large City, very well built, af∣ter the German Fashion, seated at the end of a vast and fertil Field, extremely smooth and level, so that you may discover the City from the Mountains of Saverne, which are eight Leagues distant from it. 'Tis wash'd by the River Ill, and divided into the Old and and New City by the Beusche; and both these Rivers fall into the Rhine, which is but a quarter of a League distant from the Town. The Bishop of this place is Suffragan to the Elector of Mentz; and at pre∣sent the Cardinal of Furstemberg is Bishop of Strasburg by the Mercy of God, and of the Crown of France. The Count of Chamilly, Lieu∣tenant-General of his Majesty's Armies, is Go∣vernour, and Monsieur de Labadie formerly Major, was made the King's Lieutenant since I came to the City. 'Tis a very ancient City, but was never acknowledged for a Republick till the time of Luther, whose Doctrine it receiv'd: And its Rights were never since disputed till the Year 1682, when the King made himself Master of it, as a Dependence, or rather the Capital City

of Alsace, which belongs to him by Virtue of the Treaty of Munster. You are not unacquainted with the Methods that were taken to justifie his Pretensi∣ons. The Eyes of some of the principal Burgoma∣sters were so well enlighten'd with the Summ of 100000 Crowns, that all their Doubts were clear'd in a Moment; and those Conscientious Magistrates put his Majesty in possession of a Place to which he had asserted his Right by such convincing Arguments, with all the Self-denial and Disinte∣ressedness that cou'd be desir'd. But this Restau∣ration was not made with the Unanimous Con∣sent of the Citizens, the greatest part of whom bewail'd, and continue still to bewail the Loss of their Liberty, which, next the Sovereign Good, ought to be the dearest Blessing to all ge∣nerous Minds. Nor are their Complaints ill∣grounded; for they have been extremely harras'd of late, and even their Religion cou'd not escape the Fury of their new Masters. I know not what Excuse can be pretended for so manifest a Vio∣lation of the Rights of a free City, that submit∣ted on Condition that its Liberty, and all its o∣ther Privileges, shou'd be preserv'd intire. Be∣sides, if they be only consider'd as Natives of Al∣sace, what plausible Reason can be alledg'd why they shou'd be treated with greater Severity than the rest of their Neighbours? Has not the King an equal Right to the whole Province? and why shou'd Strasburg be singl'd out for the Object of his Indignation, since there are several less consi∣derable Places in Alsace, whose Privileges are suf∣fer'd to remain untouch'd? Thus, for Example, the Inhabitants of St. Mary aux Mines, in the Ger∣man part of Lorrain, continue still in the enjoy∣ment of their ancient Rights; the River separates the Precinct of the Protestants from that of the Catholicks: The same Privileges are common both

to the Priests and Ministers, and they live in a peaceful Union without incroaching upon one another. I was inform'd by the Guardian of the Co••deliers in that place, that when the Queen came thither, in her Journey to receive the Dau∣phiness, she resolv'd to build a Chapel, in perfor∣mance of a Vow she had made, and appointed the Place where it shou'd be erected in the Ter∣ritory of the Protestants, who immediately came to beg her Majesty not to violate their Privile∣ges, which they shew'd her; and she was so well satisfy'd with the Justice of their Desire, that she was easily prevail'd with to countermand her former Orders. And I can assure you, that the Privileges of that paltry Village are still preserv'd with so little innovation, that I have seen with my own Eyes the Catholicks and Protestants per∣form Divine Service by Turns in the Parochial Church. But it seems the People of Strasburg were not thought worthy of so favourable a Treatment. The Protestants, who were sole Ma∣sters of the Cathedral, were compell'd to give place to the Catholicks, who are at present possess'd both of that and most other Churches in the City, tho' about twelve Years ago they cou'd on∣ly pretend a Right to a Chapel that belongs to the Order of Malta. This is certainly one of the fairest Churches in Europe; and I may venture to say, that its Steeple cannot be parrallel'd in the whole World: This magnificent Tower is con∣triv'd with wonderful Art, and the Stones are all exactly cut into several Figures, which charm the Eye of the Spectator: Its heights amounts to 560 Foot, and its breadth to 52; the Doors are of Brass, and proportionable to the largeness of the Building. Since the Catholicks became Masters of it, they have built a great Altar, according to the Modern way, in the Floor of the Nave, which

is of a Triangular Figure, with large Mar∣ble Columns at the Angles, supporting a Dome adorn'd with many Basso-relievo's, and fine Paintings. The Tabernacle is in the middle of the Altar, enrich'd with excellent Sculptures; and all the other Ornaments are Beautiful be∣yond the possibility of Improvement. But all the Charms of so rare a Piece of Work∣manship cannot long detain the Spectator from satisfying his Curiosity with a View of that ad∣mirable Clock built by the Chapter, which marks the Minutes, Hours, Days of the Month and Week, the Age of the Moon, Signs of the Zodi∣ack, and the Centuries or Ages of the World, by a Wheel that performs only one Round in the space of a hundred Years. If you wou'd have the pleasure to behold all the Beauties of the Clock, you must wait till Noon, when the twelve Apostles appear, and each knocks with a Hammer on the Bell. The striking of this, as well as of all the rest of the Hours, is preceded by the crowing of a Cock, who claps' his Wings, stretches out his Neck, and Crows so naturally, that if your Eyes did not convince you that he is made of Copper, you wou'd certainly conclude him to be really that which he represents. Immedi∣ately after the History of the Annunciation appears, the Door of the Virgin's Chamber opens, and the Angel Gabriel comes to intimate her Conception; the Virgin, who is on her Knees at Prayer, turns to hear his Message; and at the same time the Holy Ghost descends upon her Head in form of a Dove: And all these Motions are perform'd with an admirable Exactness.

This beautiful Church is not the only Orna∣ment of Strasburg: The rest of its Buildings de∣serve an attentive Consideration, especially the Fortifications, on which the King has bestow'd

such prodigious Summs: The Citadel has its pe∣culiar Beauties, where the King entertains a Com∣pany of Cadets. But the City is so extremely large, and lies so open, that all the Works with which it is surrounded, cou'd hardly resist the Attacks of a powerful Enemy, if it were not co∣verd on all sides by the impregnable Forts ere∣cted by his Majesty's Order, on the Bridge over the Rhine; for all the Advantage an Army cou'd propose by taking the City while those Forts re∣main in the Hands of the French, wou'd amount to no more than the Possession of a large and strong Prison.

'Twou'd be needless to describe the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants, since they are so observant of all the Fashions of their New Masters, that a meer Stranger wou'd imagine 'em to be natural Frenchmen.

I'm persuaded, Sir, you'll be as weary in Read∣ing as I am in Writing this Letter; however, I'm resolv'd that neither of these Considerations shall discourage me from pursuing my Design of presenting you from Time to Time, with Rela∣tions of my Travels, which I intend to begin to 〈◊〉〈◊〉.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Strasburg, Sept. 1689.

LETTER III.

SIR,

I Left Strasburg about the end of the last Month, and passing by Saverne, Phalsburg, and Marsal, (which is much different from what it was here∣tofore) arriv'd at Metz in Lorrain, from whence the Cardinal of Furstemburg was gone some Days before. He retir'd to this place in the beginning of the Year, not thinking himself secure at Bonn: And he was even so sensible of the Danger with which that place was threaten'd, that he brought a∣long with him the very Bolts of the Doors of the Episcopal Palace. In the mean time he put on a seeming Confidence, and talk'd of nothing but Conquests and Electorates, promising great things to all his Friends; and even levy'd two Companies of Soldiers for his Guard, whom he was afterwards forc'd to disband for want of Money to pay 'em. I staid two Days at Metz, to consider all its Rarities. The City is pretty large, and tolerably well Fortify'd. There is a Company of Cadets in the Citadel, which has four Bastions, with good Ditches full of Water. The Cathedral, which is dedicated to S. Stephen, is built on the declivity of a Hillock; so that whereas we usually ascend to other Churches, we must go down seven or eight Steps to this. It is a large Building, tho' there is nothing re∣markable in it but the Bap••ismal Font, consisting of one piece of Porphyrie, about ten Foot long, which is a Rarity in this Country. The Bishop assumes the Title of a Prince of the Holy Empire; and is a Suffragan of the Elector of Triers. This

City was formerly the Metropolis of the King∣dom of Austrasia, which Clovis I. gave to his Na∣tural Son Thierry, creating him the first King of it: Afterwards it purchas'd its Liberty for the Summ of 100000 Crowns, of Godfrey of Bouillon, at his departure for the Holy Land, and main∣tain'd the Character of a Republick till the Year 1552, in which it was treacherously seiz'd by the Constable de Montmorenci, in the Name of Henry II. For pretending to go to the assistance of the Protestants in Germany, he ask'd permission to en∣ter the City, under pretext that he had fall'n sick by the Way; and the next Morning sent to ac∣quaint the Mayor and Echevins of the Town, that he was desirous to communicate an Affair of great importance to 'em before his Death. When he saw 'em all met together in his Cham∣ber, he started up, and thrust his Poniard into the Mayor's Breast, for a Signal to his Followers to stab the rest of the Magistrates: And imme∣diately after the Execution of that cruel Trea∣son, the French run about the Streets, crying, Vi∣ve le Roy, and made themselves Masters of the Gates, and afterwards of the whole City. About the end of the same Year, it was in vain besie∣ged by Charles V. who was forc'd to make a shameful Retreat by the Duke of Guise, who de∣fended the place. Since that unsuccessful Attempt, Metz remain'd still under the Dominion or ra∣ther Protection of our Kings: For the Inhabi∣tants carry'd all their Appeals before the Impe∣rial Chamber at Spire, till Lewis XIII. establish'd a Parliament in this place, extending its Jurisdi∣ction over Toul, Verdun, and the Country of Mes∣sin. The Emperour complain'd of this Innova∣tion; nor was the Contest that happen'd on this Occasion entirely decided, till the Peace that was concluded in 1648. Besides the Parliament, the

King erected a new Court of Judicature here some Years ago, which has had the Impudence (if I may use that Expression without exposing my self to the same Censure) to cite before it Kings and Sovereign Princes, to yield Homage and Fealty for some Territories over which they pretend to have a Right of Superiority, as the Counties of Chini and Alost, the Dutchy of Deux-Ponts, and several others.

This is the only City in France where Jews are permitted to settle; and there are even some Towns in Alsace where they dare not lodge one Night. At Strasburg they are forc'd to pay thir∣ty Sous at the Gate, before they are suffer'd to enter the City; and I have been often surpriz'd at the extraordinary dexterity of the Toll-ga∣therers in discovering a Man of that Nation.

From Metz I came to Nanci, the chief City of Lorrain, and Residence of the Dukes of that Name. 'Tis hardly possible that a Town which has chang'd its Masters so often, shou'd be re∣markable for its Riches: However, 'tis very well fortify'd; and the same Prince by whose Orders 'twas almost entirely ruin'd in 1661, was after∣wards pleas'd to repair it. The River Meurte passes by the Walls, and fills the Ditches, which are of a considerable Depth. The City is divi∣ded into the High and Low Town; and the Ducal Palace, which is seated in the former, is a very large Structure, of an admirable Architecture, and adorn'd with many fine Pi∣ctures. Among its other Rarities, there is a Hu∣mane Figure of Wood, consisting of several Pie∣ces, fitted together with so much Exactness and Art, that it may be made to imitate all the Motions and Gestures of a living Man. S. George's Church is particularly remarkable for the Magni∣ficent Tombs of the Dukes that lie inter••d there.

About seven or eight Years ago this City was depriv'd of two of its noblest Ornaments; the famous Culverin, that shot a Bullet to S. Nicho∣las, a Village two large Leagues from Nanci; and the Brazen Horse, that carri'd the Statue of one of the Dukes of Lorrain. These are cer∣tainly the finest cast Pieces in France, and were always thought too heavy for Carriage, till a certain Engineer undertook to remove 'em, and succeeded in the Attempt. The latter was de∣sign'd to support the King's Statue in the Place of Conquests at Paris, but was found to be of too small a size; and the other was carry'd to Dunkirk. The Inhabitants of this City, and, in general, all the Third State (or Commons) of Lorrain, are still extremely devoted to the In∣terest of their true and natural Prince; and scru∣ple not to express their Affection to him on all Occasions, with a certain innocent Frankness, which together with their Clownish way of Speak∣ing, is esteem'd by the French rather worthy of Laugh∣ter than Anger. But the Nobility are so dazzl'd with the glaring Prospect of Court-Preferment, that they seem to have quite forgot the loss of their ancient Privileges, which were so great un∣der the Government of their Dukes, that they were in a manner Sovereign Princes; whereas at present they are reduc'd to an equal Level with the rest of the Gentlemen of the Kingdom.

I stay'd not at Nanci, but continuing my Journey towards Dijon, arriv'd at Langres in Champagne. This City is seated on a Mountain almost inaccessible on all sides: but the Inhabitants have no reason to be proud of the strength of its Situation, which makes it a kind of Prison; for the Descent from the Town is extremely uneasie, and a Man may without Va∣nity boast of his Lungs, if he can climb from the bottom of the Hill to the Gate, without losing his

Breath. The People of the Country call this the Maiden-City, both because it has not been taken for several Ages, and by reason of its Fidelity to the Crown: The Bishop is both a Spiritual and Tem∣poral Lord, and has the Title of Duke and Peer of France.

The next Day I pass'd thro' one of the most charming and fertil Plains in France, and arriv'd at Dijon. The City begins to appear at a considerable distance, and presents a Traveller with the pleasant Prospect of 100 Spires that overtop the Houses; for which reason Dijon is usually call'd the Town of Stee∣ples. 'Tis seated on the Banks of the O••che and Suson, and was founded by the Emperour Aurelian, tho' some affirm that 'tis much more ancient, and that he only repair'd it. But not to invade the Province of Antiquaries, I shall content my self with assu∣ring you that 'tis a very fine City: The Streets are large and fair, the Courts spacious, the Buildings very beautiful, and the Churches extremely magni∣ficent. Among the rest I cannot forbear taking no∣tice of the famous Abbey of S. Benign, which was built by Gregory, Bishop of Langres, after he had miraculously found the Body of that Saint. 'Tis one of the largest, and highest Structures that are anywhere to be seen, adorn'd with three Stone-Spires, the heighth of which is suitable to the rest of the Building. The Abbey-Church of S. Stephen is on the other Side of the City, and is no less remark∣able for its Beauty. The Front of Our Lady's Church surpasses all the rest, consisting of a large Clock-Tower all over wrought, rising between two others smaller, but no less curiously adorn'd, which charm the Eyes of the Beholder. S. John's Church, the Holy Chapel, the Convents of the Jesuits, and Cordeliers, and generally all the rest of the Churches and Convents deserve particular Observation, espe∣cially that of the Carthusians, without the City,

towards the Red Gate, which is one of the richest Monasteries in the Kingdom. There are a hundred Monks in it, who observe with so religious a Strict∣ness, their Vows of Solitude and Silence, that a Stranger visiting the Place wou'd be tempted to think it were uninhabited. And I may venture to add, that perhaps they may make a better use of their Revenues than any other Convent in the King∣dom: for besides a considerable Summ which they give to the Hospital of the Holy Ghost, they distri∣bute every Week five or six hundred Loaves to the Poor. They have a very fine Cloyster, and a finer Church, where the Dukes of Burgundy, and a King of Poland lie interr'd in magnificent Tombs.

On a Hillock, on the other Side of the City, there is a Convent of one of the Orders of Mendi∣cant Friers, said to be the House of S. Bernard's Fa∣ther, who was Lord of the Place that still retains the Name of Bourg-fontaines. The Room where he was born, which is a very little and low Hall, of a square Figure, is turn'd to a Chapel, with this In∣scription over the Door: Come, my Children, and I will bring you into the House of my Father, and into the Chamber where my Mother brought me forth.

Dijon is the Capital City of the Dutchy of Bur∣gundy: 'tis the Seat of a Parliament, Generality or general Receipt of the Finances, Chamber of Ac∣counts, and a Court that takes Cognizance of Affairs relating to the Coining and Value of Money; and besides the States of the Province meet here once in three Years: so that it wants only the Dignity of an Episcopal See, being under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Langres. It had formerly very considera∣ble Privileges; and our Kings at their Accession to the Crown, and as often as they enter'd into the City, were oblig'd to swear to preserve 'em. But that Custom was abolish'd by the present King, when he pass'd this way to receive the Queen at her

Arrival from Spain. For when the Mayor accom∣pany'd with the rest of the Magistrates, presented the Keys of the City, together with a Copy of their Privileges to his Majesty, humbly beseeching him that he wou'd swear to preserve 'em, after the Example of all his Predecessors, and even of the late King of Glorious Memory; Cardinal Mazarin reply'd, Are you so insolent as to impose an Oath upon your King? The Magistrates surpriz'd at so severe a Reprimand, answer'd with a great deal of Respect, that they pretended not to impose any thing, but only begg'd and hop'd to obtain that Favour from his Majesty's Justice and Goodness. I understand your Meaning, reply'd the Cardinal, you wou'd be a Free City and Commonwealth. And I assure you, in his Majesty's Name, that, without taking an Oath, he considers you as such, but prepare your selves to be∣come his Conquest. This Threatning was quickly ex∣ecuted, for the next Day 8000 Men enter'd the City, and the Cardinal made a general Alteration in the Magistracy. The Mayoralty of Dijon was the best Place of that Nature in France; for besides the Title of a Viscount, the Government of the City, and of all the Third Estate or Commonalty of Burgundy was annex'd to it. The Inhabitants of this City are generally of a very free and sociable Temper, and the Women enjoy all the Advantages of an honest Liberty. So charming a Society puts a kind of easie Constraint upon Strangers, and makes 'em break all their Resolutions of hastening their Departure: for 'tis impossible to stay here four and twenty Hours without making some agreeable Acquaintance, which may afterwards prove the Source of a great deal of Pleasure. The narrow Compass of a Letter will not allow me to insert the Relation of a very pleasant Adventure that I met with in this place; but I'm resolv'd to make

you my Confident at our first Meeting. To mor∣row I intend to depart for Lyons, where I shall have time to give you an Account of my Journey. In the mean time,

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Dijon, Octob. 1689.

LETTER IV.

SIR,

CHaalons is a considerable City, honour'd with the Title of a County, and is the same with the ancient Cabilonum mention'd in Caesar's Commentaries. It appears by the Ruines of an old Amphitheatre, that this place was formerly possess'd by the Romans. I lodg'd at the Pelican, where I had the good For∣tune to meet with three Merchants of Lyons, who were returning thither, and promis'd to shew me all the Rarities of that City. We had scarce tra∣vell'd a Mile, when we met with a Priest walking a-foot, in a pretty genteel Garb: He was a Man of a very serious Mien, but talk'd wittily. He ac∣cepted the Civility of one of our Company, who offer'd him the Conveniency of riding behind him half a League of bad way, thro' which we were oblig'd to pass. This Accident gave us occasion to discourse of the Uneasiness of travelling on Foot, and of the Happiness of those who by Virtue of certain Charms, can ride 30 or 40 Leagues a day. I was never fond of believing what I cannot com∣prehend,

and I must confess my Reason was too hard for my Faith on this Occasion. However I know not whether I shou'd have been able to with∣stand the Opposition of some of my Fellow-Tra∣vellers, if he who had the Priest behind him had not vigorously undertaken my Defence. The Di∣spute continu'd for some time pretty warm on both sides, till our mutual Weariness rather than Want of Arguments, made us at last consent to chuse the Priest, who had not yet sided with either Party, to be Judge of our Difference. He very gravely told us, that the controverted Story was a certain Truth, and that he knew some Persons who were Masters of that Secret; I cou'd not forbear laugh∣ing at the serious Tone with which he pronounc'd Sentence against me; and he was so vex'd at my Incredulity, that he began to maintain his Assertion with a great deal of heat. Immediately his Fellow-Horseman took up the Cudgels, and they engag'd in a Debate which lasted about a Quarter of an Hour; till at last the Priest perceiving that 'twas in vain to contend longer with so obstinate an Adversary, told us plainly that he himself cou'd do the Feat, tho' he never us'd to put it in Practice; and that if his Opponent had a Mind to see the Experiment, he wou'd make his Horse carry him to Mascon in two Hours. The Merchant took him at his word, and summon'd him to perform his Pro∣mise, to which he consented, and immediately the Horse gallop'd away with so prodigious a Swiftness, that we lost sight of 'em in a Moment. This Acci∣dent did not much surprize us at first; for we thought the Priest had a Spur conceal'd in his hand, with which he prick'd the Horse: in the mean time we rode on, but cou'd neither see, nor hear the least News of our Gallopers till we arriv'd at Mascon on the morrow, where we found the Merchand ve∣ry melancholick. He told us that he was carry'd

to Mascon exactly in two Hours after he left us, with so much Ease, that he imagin'd all the while he was riding at a Hand-Gallop; but that his Horse fell dead assoon as he enter'd the Stable. He con∣cluded that the Priest was a Wizard, and was so firmly perswaded of the Truth of his Opinion, by the concurring Testimony of our Landlord, who knew the Man, that he enter'd an Accusation a∣gainst him, and procur'd him to be apprehended the same day. I was oblig'd to give Evidence with the rest, and to declare all that I had seen him do, which, in my Opinion, cou'd not amount to a con∣vincing Proof of his Guilt. I know no Reason that shou'd hinder us from supposing that a good English Horse, such as the Merchant's was, might with a good Spur be made to gallop eight Leagues in two hours, and without any Enchantment fall dead at his Journey's End. Yet this Accident made a great Noise, and the Poor Devil was sent to Prison, where I left him. I had almost forgot to tell you that they found in his Pockets a Piece of Parch∣ment four fingers breadth long, and two broad, with this Sentence in Red Letters, Adjutor meus, & Protector meus, tu Domine, nè derelinquas me, with four small Crosses, one at each End, one above, and ano∣ther below, which they fansi'd to be a certain Charm or Character.

From Mascon we proceeded on our Journey to Lyons, where I was forc'd to sell my Horse, who was gall'd under the Saddle-Bow. I resolv'd to spend some Days in this Place, that I might have time to take a full View of a City that is esteem'd the Largest and most Considerable in the Kingdom, next to Paris, and is certainly worthy of all the Curiosity of a Traveller. 'Tis seated at the Conflu∣ence of the Rhone and the Saône, in a Bottom be∣tween two Hills. The Houses equal, or rather ex∣ceed those of Paris in Heighth, some of 'em amount∣ing

to six Stories; which makes the Streets somewhat Dark, by reason of their Narrowness. There are many fine Courts in the City, but none of 'em are comparable to Belle-Cour, which is em∣bellish'd with Rows of Trees; tho' its principal Ornament consists in the Company that resort to it; for 'tis the general Rendezvous of all the Peo∣ple of Quality and good Breeding; and since the Ladies here are no less Generous than Charming, and cannot justly be accus'd of Inhumanity to their Captives, there are many Intrigues form'd in this Place, which are carry'd on with all the Tenderness and Pleasure that a reciprocal Passion can inspire.

To give you a compendious Account of the publick Edifices in Lions, in which respect it holds the first Rank, without Controversy, among all the Cities of France; I shall begin with the Me∣tropolitan Church, dedicated to S. John, and foun∣ded by John King of Burgundy, on the Ruines of a Temple formerly consecrated to Augustus. There is a Clock near the Choir, which surpasses that of Strasburg in the fineness of its Contrivance and Workmanship; for, besides all the Rarities men∣tion'd in the Description of that famous Machine, the Clock of Lions has several peculiar Beauties; among which I shall only take notice of the An∣gel that Chants the Hymn of S. John with all the exactness imaginable. The Needle that marks the Hours, and grows longer or shorter according to the various dimensions of the Oval Dial, and the Days of the Week mark'd by Figures that appear every Morning in a Nich on the top of the Clock, in the room of those that possess'd the same place the Day before.

The King of France by Virtue of his Crown, is the first Canon of this Church; and all the rest

have the Title of Counts; and must prove their Nobility before they can be receiv'd.

There are several other Magnificent Churches in Lions. That of Nôtre-dame de Forvieres is one of the most ancient, which was formerly dedi∣cated to Venus. Every curious Traveller ought to view the City from the Steeple of this Church, where he may have a distinct Prospect of its Ex∣tent and Situation. Adjoining to this are the Ruines of the Palace of Augustus, and of a Neigh∣bouring Amphitheatre, where Learned and Inqui∣sitive Antiquaries may find an excellent Oppor∣tunity to display their Skill in the Examination of an infinite Number of Inscriptions, Statues, Tombs, Urns, Medals, and other rich Monu∣ments of the Roman Grandeur. But my unac∣quaintedness with those Studies makes me purpose∣ly decline entring upon this Subject; since I'm con∣fident you'll be better pleas'd with my Silence, than if I shou'd send you an imperfect or erro∣neous Account, under the specious Title of A Description of the Antiquities of Lions.

The Town-House is a Master-piece of Art, com∣pleatly furnish'd with all the Advantages and Or∣naments of Beauty, Situation, Extent, Height, Architecture, Marbles, Paintings, Gardens, Foun∣tains, Antiquities, and every thing else that may recommend a Building to the Observation of a Curious and Knowing Traveller. Its Front re∣gards the Place des Terreaux, which is one of the most pleasant Courts in in the City; and before it there is a lovely Fountain, which is none of its least Considerable Ornaments. In the first place I took notice of a large Clock-Tower, rising between two high Pavilions, under which is the Entry to the Palace adorn'd with large Columns of a precious kind of Marble. Then I went up some Steps, and coming under the Pavilions, observ'd two Tables

of Brass, where I found engrav'd in Ancient Cha∣racters, the Patent granted by the Emperour Cla••∣dius to the Inhabitants of Lions, when he bestow'd the Privileges of Roman Citizens upon 'em. From thence I enter'd into the First, and afterwards into the Second Court, where I consider'd with a great deal of Pleasure and Attention, the Stru∣cture and Design of that Majestick Mass of Buil∣ding, which is of a Square Figure, and bounded at the four Corners with as many large and ve∣ry high Pavilions. Afterwards I went down to the Garden, which is embellish'd with Gravel Walks, Beds of Flowers, Fountains, and a hun∣dred other Ornaments. After I had satisfy'd my Curiosity with a View of the external Beauties of this Noble Structure, I return'd to admire the in∣side of it. I went up a pair of winding Stairs, of a very excellent Contrivance, to the Hall, where I was agreeably surpriz'd with its Large∣ness, Gilding, Paintings, and especially a great number of Pictures of the Kings of France, which are all finish'd Pieces: And in the the other A∣partments I observ'd a vast variety of different Beauties, which I dare not undertake to describe. I spent the whole Morning in this House, and employ'd the Afternoon with a great deal of Satisfaction, in visiting the Hospitals, which may be reckon'd among the most considerable Founda∣tions of that Nature in France. Hòtel Dieu is a spacious Structure, well built, and very rich: All sorts of diseas'd Persons are receiv'd into it; so that 'tis always very full, and wou'd hardly be able to maintain so vast a Charge, notwith∣standing the greatness of its Revenues, if the Archbishop did not bestow upon it the Profits accruing from the Dispensation of eating Eggs, Milk, Flesh, &c. The Hospital de la Charite is a Modern Foundation; and tho' tis not near so large

as the former, it may be justly reckon'd equal to it in other respects. On the top of a great Por∣tal, that serves for an Entry to the Building, there is the Figure of a Pelican, tearing her Breast, to feed her young ones; the true Emblem of Charity I observ'd one thing at Lions which I had not seen in any other part of France, I mean the Place of Refuge for Criminals, which is nei∣ther a Church nor Royal Palace, but a House appointed for that Purpose, and usually call'd the Sanctuary. Towards the Gate des Trions, I saw the Aqueducts that were built by the Romans for the Conveyance of Water into the City; and not far from thence there is a Cave, call'd the Grotto, which is also said to be one of their Works. The Country about the City is embellish'd with a vast number of lovely Seats, among which la Duchere and la Claire deserve a particular Observa∣tion. The City has six Gates, three Bridges, a∣bout two hundred Streets, and above a hundred Churches, Convents, or Chapels. The Archbishop is the chief Prelate of the Gauls, and by Virtue of his Primacy receives Appeals from all the parts of France in Ecclesiastical Cases. Monsieur de Villeroy is the present Archbishop, and Lieute∣nant-General of the whole Province. He is de∣scended of a very honourable Family, but is cer∣tainly one of the roughest and least Complaisant Men in the World. I cannot forbear relating to you, upon this occasion, a very pleasant Di∣scourse that pass'd between this Prelate and Monsieur de la Feuillade.

That Mareschal, says the Story, riding Post to Turin, in a very mean Garb, to dispatch some Affairs of Importance, stopt at Li••ns to deliver a Packet from the King to the Archbishop, who taking the Bearer for an Ordinary Courier, be∣cause he pretended to no higher Quality, ask'd

him, Whether there were any News at Paris. Green Pease, my Lord, reply'd the Mareschal. You mistake my meaning, Friend, said the Archbishop; I wou'd know what People were saying when you left Paris? My Lord, answer'd the Mareschal, they were saying Vespers. Then the Prelate perceiving that the pre∣tended Courier abus'd him, fell into a Passion, saying, How, Friend? where were you taught to speak thus to Persons of my Quality and Character? What are you?—What do People use to call you? Why, my Lord, reply'd the Mareschal, some are pleas'd to call me Friend, others Monsieur, and the King calls me Cousin. These Words surpriz'd the Archbishop, who, considering the Mareschal more attentively, at last knew him, and made an Apology for his incivility. Never∣theless I can hardly be induc'd to believe that a Man of his Quality wou'd have stoop'd to such punning Wit, which is only graceful in the Mouth of a true Courier: Tho' 'tis well known that Mon∣sieur de la Feuillade was a Person of a very odd and singular Humour. You have doubtless read what an Author of great Reputation relates con∣cerning his Discourse to the King about the Arch∣bishop of Rheims; and if you can believe that Story, you will not think this incredible.

Lions is a very ancient City, known to Titus Li∣vius and Plutarch by the Name of The Island. The Name which it still retains was given to it by Anthony, (who obtain'd Celtica Gallia for his part of the Empire) when he enter'd the City on a Tri∣umphant Chariot drawn by twelve Lions; and he afterwards caus'd Money to be coin'd in the same place, of which I have seen some Pieces, bearing his Figure on one side, and on the other a Lion, with the Word Lugduni. The Town it self neither is, nor can be made very strong; but 'tis comman∣ded by three good Castles which defend its Ave∣nues. The first is the famous Fort of Peter An∣cise,

built on the top of a steep Mountain, with the rare Advantage of an excellent Spring of Wa∣ter; the second is that of S. Sebastian; and the third has the Name of S. Clair.

I intended to have gone directly from Lions to Geneva; but I soon found that I cou'd not pro∣secute that Design without throwing my self into unavoidable Dangers; for the Protestants are so narrowly watch'd every where, that 'tis absolutely impossible to travel thither without a Pass-port, un∣less a Man were Master of the Invention of fly∣ing thro' the Air. Nor is it very safe to demand a Pass-port of the Archbishop; for very lately he order'd two Merchants to be apprehended, for no other reason than that they were going to Ge∣neva. That Name alone is sufficient to make any Man pass for a Heretick that dares venture to pronounce it; and he may reckon himself favour∣ably treated if his Crime be not immediately judg'd worthy of the Gallows. You cannot ima∣gine with what care I avoid the mentioning of so dangerous a Word; and, I assure you, I'm so much in Love with the Principle of Self-preserva∣tion, that I talk of nothing but Rome; and pre∣tend that the only Design of my Travels is to wait upon the Duke de Chaûnes.

All this Caution, and the Commotions that at present disturb this Country, are occasion'd by the return of the Vaudois, who arming them∣selves in the Canton of Bern in Switzerland, with a Secrecy that prevented even the Suspicions of their Enemies, form'd two Bodies, one of 1200, and the other of 3000 Men; and embarking on the Lake of Geneva, forc'd their way thro' Savoy to their own Country, in spite of the uni∣ted Forces of France and Savoy, who oppos'd their Passage, and oblig'd 'em to five or six Battels, or rather Skirmishes, in which the Vaudois had

still the Advantage; but all those who were caught straggling were made to pay for their Fel∣lows, and immediately hang'd without Mercy. 'Tis impossible for a considering Person to reflect without amazement, on the Success of that En∣terprize. The first Body of those poor Exiles had so little Experience in the Management of War∣like Expeditions, that there was not one Officer among 'em to conduct the rest; for they had no other Commanders but one Monsieur Arnaud, a Minister, and under him a Mason, nam'd Turel, for their Lieutenant-General. Judge, Sir, whether such doughty Captains were fitted for the At∣chievement of an Attempt, which a Triple num∣ber of regulated Troops durst not have undertaken. This Consideration makes me very inclinable to believe that the Duke of Savoy not only knew and allow'd, but was the Promoter, and even the Au∣thor of their Design; especially since 'tis plain that he might have easily prevented the Execu∣tion of it, by cutting off their Passage, and ma∣king 'em perish in the Mountains.

I have said enough to convince you, that 'tis not safe for me to prosecute my intended Jour∣ney to Geneva; however I'll leave no means un∣essay'd, to get out of the limits of France, and to break thro' all the Difficulties that lie in my Way. In pursuance of that Design, which I con∣fess seems in a manner impracticable, I'm resolv'd at all Adventures to go to Grenoble, that I may at least draw nearer the Confines of the King∣dom, in expectation of a more favourable Op∣portunity to get beyond 'em. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Lions, Nov. 1689.

LETTER V.

SIR,

I Acquainted you in my last with my Resoluti∣tion to continue my Journey to Grenoble. At my departure from Lions I hir'd a Post-Ass at S. Siforins, out of pure Curiosity to try so rare an Experiment: Tho' I must confess this way of Travelling is not altogether without its Advanta∣ges; for the Rider may boldly venture a Fall, without running the hazard of breaking his Neck. I pass'd thro' Vienne, a very Ancient City, and of Old much esteem'd by the Romans, notwith∣standing its disadvantageous Situation at the bottom of two great Mountains, which dar∣ken the Place extremely. Pilate, the Governour of Jerusalem, and our Saviour's Judge, was after∣wards sent hither; and they still show the Prae∣torium, or Hall of Justice, where he was wont to pronounce Judgment. There is a round Stone in the Wall with this Inscription, This is the Globe of Pilate's Scepter; tho' its unfitness for such an Use makes me rather inclinable to believe, that the Inscription speaks of the House, which might be call'd The Globe of a Sceptre, by way of Figure or Allusion. They also make Strangers take notice of a square Tower, where they pretend he ended his Days, after an Imprisonment of Seven Years. The City is full of such-like Antiquities, which are the only things in it that deserve a Travel∣ler's Observation; for the Buildings are very in∣considerable. S. Severus's Church stands in a Place where formerly the Heathens ador'd a Hundred Gods, under a great Tree, that was afterwards cut

down and rooted up by that Saint's Order, as appears by this Inscription on a Column:

Arborem Deos Severus evertit
Centum Deorum.

There goes a Story, that under that Tree there was found a Death's-Head, full of Gold and Sil∣ver, with which the Church was built. I will not pretend to demonstrate the falseness of this Tradition; but I think I may venture to conclude, that either the Head was very big, or the Wages of Workmen in those Days very low; for such a Structure cou'd not now be erected for sixty thou∣sand Crowns.

Without the City, in a place call'd The Field de l' Aguillé, there is an high Pyramid, consisting of several Stones join'd together without Mortar or Cement, and supported by an Ancient Vault of the same kind of Architecture, resembling a little Chapel. The Inhabitants of Vienne pretend that this Pyramid was erected by an Emperour, with a Design that his Ashes shou'd be plac'd in an Urn on the top of it, that his Tomb might be nearer Heaven. The Archiepiscopal Church is consecrated to S. Maurice, whose Head is pre∣serv'd in it. The Archbishop assumes the Quali∣ty of Primate of the Primates of the Gauls; preten∣ding a right to that Title, in opposition to the Archbishop of Lions, against whom he has a Suit on this Occasion, that (if we we may judge by Appearances) will not be soon decided. Vienne was the Capital City of Dauphiné, before the ere∣ction of a Parliament at Grenoble; and therefore the Kings of France, among the rest of their Ti∣tles, style themselves Dauphins of Viennois.

From thence continuing my Journey, mounted as before, at the rate of five Sous by the Stage,

which is the ordinary Price; I and my Ass had the Fortune to meet with a Couple of Fellow-Travellers. Immediately I accosted my Compa∣nion, and finding nothing either in his Mien or Di∣scourse that deserv'd Contempt, I concluded that he was a Merchant of Lions or Grenoble. About two Hours after our Meeting, perceiving at a con∣siderable distance a Coach drawn by Six Horses, and attended with some Horsemen, coming to∣wards us, he presently alighted, and turn'd his Ass loose: Then shrinking up one of his Arms, and turning it awry, as if he had been Lame, he walk'd bare-headed to the Boot of the Coach, and begg'd Charity of the Passengers. I was extreme∣ly surpriz'd at so odd and unexpected an Action, nor cou'd I divine the Meaning of it; for I thought it almost impossible that a Man, who, I imagin'd, was neither Poor nor Sick, cou'd be guilty of so much Baseness: However, since my Beast had already carry'd me so far, that I cou'd not observe distinctly what he said or did, I re∣solv'd to suspend my Judgment till I shou'd learn the reason of it from his own Mouth. Assoon as he came up, I ask'd what he went to do at the Coach; Somewhat, reply'd he, that will doubt∣less surprize you: Perhaps you did not believe me to be a profess'd Beggar; yet I assure you I have no other Trade; and if you stay at Grenoble, you may be a Witness of my Diligence in that Vocation. I'm going to the Hospital in that City, where I'm sure of a Lodg∣ing, for three Days, during which I hope to get three Pistoles. I was no less astonish'd at what I heard him say, than at what I had already seen him do: But he went on with the same Frankness, and told me the whole History of his Life. He said he was born at Avignon, of a considerable Fa∣mily in that City, and that he had actually a Revenue of above 200 Livres; that during his

Infancy he had so strong an Inclination to Beg∣ging, that he usually stole away from his Father and Mother to ask Alms on the High-ways; where he sometimes pick'd up twenty or thirty Sous a Day, which made him so fond of that Course of Life, that he cou'd never afterwards leave it. He assur'd me, that the Trade of Begging was attended at least with as much Pleasure as Pain; and that he was so accu∣stom'd to it, that he was resolv'd to make it the only Business of his Life. In the mean time I hearken'd to him with an Admira∣tion that wou'd not suffer me to inter∣rupt him; and he scrupl'd not to acquaint me with most of the usual Tricks of his Fellow-Vaga∣bonds. They spend their whole Lives in wandring from one Hospital to another, and know exactly all the Customs of those Places, and the various Offices of Charity that were appointed by the Founders to be perform'd in 'em. Some of 'em cover themselves with Rags, and putting their Arms or Legs out of Joint, take up their Post at a Church Door from Morning to Night, while others go about in a pretty decent Garb, and pretending to be poor Officers who have been robb'd of their Money, and are at a great distance from their Friends and Relations, beg the Chari∣table Assistance of those whom they meet, with a certain Bashfulness, and mournful Tone, that deceives many well-dispos'd Persons. He that in∣structed me in all these Mysteries, was of the Se∣cond Order, and contemn'd the others as a sort of Puny Mumpers, who had neither Courage nor Ambition: Adding, that he got more in a Day that the best of them cou'd do in a whole Month. Nevertheless these Strolers depend not wholly on Charity; they have another Trade which is no less Gainful than Begging, I mean the selling of

Pass-Ports to Travellers. My Companion percei∣ving that I had none, desir'd me to buy one of him; and at the first Inn where we alighted, shew'd me at least a Hundred. I ask'd him the Price of One: There are some, answer'd he, of all Prices, as well as other Commodities; for some are Au∣thentick, others forg'd; some of an old, others of a fresh Date; and if you will be satisfy'd with such as are Counterfeit, you shall have 'em for fifteen Sous a-piece. I thank'd him for his Ingenuity; but told him, that I cou'd not trust to a false Pass-Port. Yet they are as sure as the rest, answer'd he, for they are never call'd in Question; and all the Authentick Pass-Ports I have, are procur'd on the Credit of such as I wrote with my own Hand, for otherwise they wou'd not give me any: However, you may please your self both in the Choice and Goodness of your Commodi∣ty; for I have some for all Places. Then I ask'd him one for Geneva; but he told me, that to his great Sorrow and Loss, 'twas impossible to obtain one for that Place; assuring me, that if he had a Hundred of 'em, he cou'd dispose of 'em all at the Rate of Ten Pistoles a-piece. At last I gave him two Pistoles for a Pass-Port to Rome, preten∣ded to be granted by the Archbishop of Lions to one Bidault, and afterwards ratify'd and approv'd at Vienne. He swore and protested that 'twou'd infallibly pro∣cure me an unquestion'd Passage; but the extream desire I had to make my Escape out of France ra∣ther than any Credit I gave to his Asseverations, made me willing to run the Hazard; tho', after all, I apprehended the Danger to be greater than it really was: For assoon as I presented my coun∣terfeit Pass-Port to the Marquess de S. André, he granted me another without the least Difficulty, ap∣pointing me to pass thro' Chambery, S. John de Mo∣rienne, and Turin.

Grenoble became the Capital City of Dauphiné, when Charles VII. establish'd a Parliament in it, and has ever since continu'd in the possession of that Dignity. This Country was bequeath'd to King Philip de Valois, by Humbert, the last Prince of Dauphine, on condition that from thenceforth the Presumptive Heir of the Crown of France, shou'd be stil'd Dauphin of Viennois; and bear in his Coat-Armorial the Arms of France quarter'd with those of Dauphiné, which are, Or, a Dolphin Azure, Crested, Finn'd, and Ear'd Gules. The Tomb of Andrew, Humbert's Son, is in the Church of the Dominicans that fronts the Place de Grenette, which is the finest in Grenoble, both for its Largeness, and the Magnificence of the Building with which 'tis adorn'd, especially the Parliament-House, to which you enter thro' a Court, border'd with Shops full of all sorts of Commodities: 'Tis of an Antique Structure, and the Chambers are very well fur∣nish'd. The Governour's House is large, and has the Advantage of a very pleasant Prospect. The Episcopal Church of Nôtre-Dame is another Piece of Architecture remarkable for its Antiqui∣ty. But after all, 'tis certain that the principal Glory of Grenoble consists not in its Buildings; and they who wou'd have the pleasure to be ac∣quainted with all its Beauty, must not expect to gratifie their Curiosity by a Transient View of it. For it has the Honour to be the Seat of several Noble Families, who are so far above the Clownishness that might be expected in so remote a Province, that their Conversation and Deport∣ment may be justly reckon'd the Standard of Ci∣vility and good Breeding: So that a Stranger is amaz'd to find the most refin'd Politeness of the Court in the midst of those wild Mountains. 'Tis seated on the Banks of Issere, in a Valley, which my Natural aversion to all Hilly Countries will not

suffer me to call Pleasant. Yet at my departure from the City, I saw some places that must be acknowledged to have a kind of dismal Beauty, especially the Monastery of the Carthusians. The very Ascent to it is a Journey of six Hours, thro' Ways that are almost only passable for Mules, which are very common and extremely fine in this Country: At least I can assure you, that those who live in it may for ever despair of see∣ing any Coach or Waggon near their Habitation, unless it be made upon the Place. These Moun∣tains, that seem to have been appointed by Na∣ture as a wild Retreat for Wolves and Boars, are nevertheless inhabited by Humane Creatures, if I may give that Name to Animals that seem to have a nearer resemblance to Bears than Men. Their Habit consists of so Course a Cloth, that they ne∣ver wear above one Suit of Clothes during their whole Life, tho' it shou'd last an hundred Years. 'Tis a certain reddish Stuff, of the thickness of two Crown Pieces, and every Thread in it is at least as big as Packthread. These miserable Wretches are perfect Strangers to all manner of Pleasure: Their main or only Happiness consists in filling their Stomachs with a sort of Bread that none of our Dogs wou'd taste; and even that is a Rarity among 'em: They drink Water, and live Night and Day in Huts of Straw in the midst of their Oxen, Cows, and Hogs, which are their usual Companions, and are utterly unacquainted with the Transactions of the rest of Mankind.

'Tis impossible to approach the Monastery with∣out feeling an over-bearing Melancholy that damps the gayest Spirits: 'tis seated between two high and rugged Mountains or rather perpendicular Rocks, and the Ghastliness of the Prospect is heighten'd by the Pine-Trees, that cast a dismal Shade upon the jutting Cliffs. And to compleat the Horrour of

the Place, the Ears are stunn'd with the amazing Dinn of a Torrent that rolls impetuously thro' the Bottom which separates the Mountains. The Monks have spar'd no Pains to cut a Way thro' those na∣turally impassable Precipices; and 'tis certain that so laborious a Work cou'd not be perform'd without a vast Expence of Treasure. However they cannot be accus'd of throwing away their Money upon useless Projects; for, if you except the trouble of ascending and descending, a Man may walk pretty easily to the Convent from the Bridges that are built at the two Ends, and in the narrowest Places at the Bottom, especially that next Grenoble, which joins the opposite Mountains with a little Arch that over-looks the Torrent, and is commanded by a House at the End of the Bridge, which Ten Men might defend against a Hundred thousand. Nor is the Passage to the Convent less difficult on the other side, so that it might be justly esteem'd a very considera∣ble Post, if it were as important as 'tis strong: but in my Opinion the Uselesness of the Conquest se∣cures it as effectually against the Attacks of an Ene∣my, as the Strength of its Situation. These Passages end in a sort of Meadow or little Valley, contain∣ing a hundred Paces in breadth, and a large quarter of a League in length, where the Monastery is seat∣ed. The Monks have made several successless At∣tempts to cultivate and embellish their solitary Abode; which are so many convincing Proofs of the Badness of the Soil, that makes it incapable of Improvement. However, they still continue to encrease their Buildings, for they have the Advan∣tage of Wood, Stones, and Iron upon the Spot, be∣sides the Conveniency of Mills, that are turn'd by a small Torrent which passes by the Convent, and furnishes 'em plentifully with Water. I'm perswa∣ded they cannot eat one half of their Yearly Re∣venue, which amounts to 300000 Livres: tho' Gen∣tlemen

of their Order are seldom guilty of pinch∣ing their Bellies, and tho' they are at a vast Charge in bringing every thing from Grenoble.

Assoon as I arriv'd, the Father, who is appointed to take Care of Strangers, brought me into the Chamber call'd the Inn, or Place of Entertainment, where they immediately kindl'd a great Fire, which was a very seasonable piece of Hospitality, for I was almost frozen with Cold. Not long after the the Father-Prior came to make me a Compliment, and left a Monk to keep me Company during my Abode in that Place. The Earliness of my Arrival gave me an Opportunity to visit the whole House, after I had enjoy'd for some time the comfortable Warmth of the Fire. In the first place, my Father-Companion shew'd me the Church, which is long and narrow for want of Room: the Walls are lin'•• with Wood, as in all the other Apartments, by rea∣son of the Moisture of the Place, that not only spoils the Paintings and Ornaments, but occasion•• violent Distempers. Afterwards we visited the Ha•• of the Chapter-General, which is wainscotted lik•• the Church, and adorn'd with some Pictures; an•• among the rest I took particular notice of a ver•• fine Piece, representing the Martyrdom of certai•• Fathers of the Order in England. From thence 〈◊〉〈◊〉 went to the King's and Bishop's Apartments, whe•••• they usually receive Persons of great Quality; fo•• others are generally entertain'd in the Room where 〈◊〉〈◊〉 was lodg'd: the Furniture of these Apartments is ne•••• without Magnificence. The Chapel of the Novice•• is, in my Opinion, the principal Ornament of th•• Monastery: for 'tis wholly built of Marble, ver•• curiously wrought with Basso-relievo's, and excelle•••• Paintings; and besides the Altar is adorn'd with 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Tabernacle of Amber, which is a valuable Piec•• and was presented to 'em by a Polander. Since th•• usual Contrivance of this kind of Structures w••••

impracticable in this place, instead of a Square Cloyster, they were forc'd to build a Row of Cells, above 300 Paces in length. After I had taken a View of all the Apartments, my Guide brought me back to my Chamber, where we supp'd on Fish; for there is no Flesh eaten in the House; after which he left me to repose.

Next Morning about Nine a-clock he return'd, to conduct me to the Place where S. Bruno per∣form'd his Penance, which is not accessible with∣out great difficulty, being on the Top of the Mountain, and so extremely Cold, that I cannot imagine it was ever inhabited by Men. Never∣theless these Fathers assur'd me, that 'twas the con∣stant Habitation of that Saint, with his Six Com∣panions; and shew'd me certain Caves or Grotto's cut out of the Rock, where they spent their Days in the Exercise of Religious Austerities. Since that time the Monks erected a very fine Chapel, enrich'd with several Pictures; among which that of the Saint himself is particularly remarkable for its finish'd Beauty. They forget not to make Strangers take notice of their Rock, on which, if you can believe their Tradition, an Angel appear'd to him every Day, and brought him his necessary Food. But it seems his Companions were not so much in love with Mortification; for after his Death they left the Hermitage, and de∣scended half a League lower, to the place where the Monastery is now seated, with the permission of S Peter himself; who did 'em the favour to appear in Person on that Occasion, and promis'd 'em the Virgin's Assistance, on condition they shou'd rehearse her Office once every Day:

It must be acknowledg'd that these Fathers do not content themselves with a bare verbal Renun∣ciation of the World and of Themselves; for their Practice is suitable to the Austerity of their Profes∣sion.

The Solitude of their Recess is certainly worthy of Admiration; they live in a perpetual Confinement among those almost inaccessible Moun∣tains, where they spend their Lives in Prayer, Contemplation, and the Severities of Repentance; and are so little acquainted with the rest of the World, that they are ignorant even of the most Remarkable Occurrences that are transacted in it. They never eat Flesh, fast three quarters of the Year, submit to the rigour of Monastical Discipline twice every Week, wear Sackcloth, spend nine Hours in the Church every Day, observe a perpe∣tual Silence, and undergo voluntary and frequent Acts of Mortification: So that if those Persons be damn'd at last, I may venture to say that they buy Hell at as dear a rate as the Saints purchase Paradise. To make you less apt to suspect the Truth of this Relation, 'twill be sufficient to tell you, that the very sight of the place inspir'd me with so resistless a Melancholy, that I spent the whole Night in making serious Reflexions on the Vanity of the World. But, after all, you must not have so favourable an Opinion of the force of this Religious Charm, as to imagine it sufficient to imprint an indelible Character of Sanctity; for I assure you, a little of the Air of the World soon dissipated all my additional Devotion, and I be∣gan to recover my wonted Gaiety by degrees, as I approach'd Chambery. The Way thither is a re∣markable Monument of the Grandeur and Mag∣nificence of Charles Emmanuel, Duke of Savoy, by whose Orders it was cut out of the Rock, for the Conveniency of his Trading-Subjects; as it appears by an Inscription fasten'd to the Rock, and ac∣company'd with the Arms of that Prince. The Road for a considerable distance from the Mona∣stery, is border'd with Precipices, and rugged Cliffs, that cast forth an almost innumerable Multitude

of impetuous Torrents, which roll along with a horrid Dinn. But afterwards the Traveller has time to recover his Senses, when at the end of this frightful Passage, he meets with a pleasant Road, that brings him insensibly to Chambery.

Chambery is the principal City of the Dutchy of Savoy, seated among the Mountains on the lit∣tle Rivers of Orbane and Esse. As for Spiritual Af∣fairs, 'tis under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Grenoble; and for its Temporal Government, there is a Senate, or Court of Justice, resembling a French Parliament, which takes Cognizance of all Civil and Criminal Suits; and its Authority is ex∣tended over the whole Dutchy. This is all the Account I can give you of Chambery; only I can assure you 'tis neither large, strong, nor beautiful. I took a Pass-Port of the President, and proceed∣ing on my Journey, pass'd by Montmelian, about two Leagues distant from Chambery, and seated on the Top of a little Hill, that rises like a Sugar-Loaf in the midst of a Valley: It may be reckon'd almost impregnable; for it seems to be plac'd out of the reach of all other Enemies but Famine, and want of Provisions: But the Town, that is seated below, is a Place of no Defence, and much less considerable than a Thousand Villages in France. S. John de Morienne, where I arriv'd the next Day, deserves no better Character, tho' it be honour'd with a Bishop's See. Here I took another Pass-Port of the great Vicar, which I may reckon cheap, tho' it cost me very dear; for it brought me safe to this place, without being at the Charge of renew∣ing it.

Two Days after I arriv'd at the Village of Lane∣burg, seated directly at the Foot of Mount Cennis. This remarkable Hill is famous both for its height, in which respect it exceeds the tallest Mountains of the Alps; and for a Bottomless Lake, situated in

the middle of its Surface. I ascended a League and a half before I arriv'd at the Lake; after which I found a Plain; extending about a large League; and in that an Inn, where I was accommo∣dated with the most desirable Entertainment in these Mountains, I mean the warmth of a good Fire; for the Way is lin'd on both sides with vast Hills of Snow; and the Wind is so cold and pier∣cing, that the poor Traveller is hardly able to sup∣port himself on his numm'd Limbs. After I had rested an Hour, I mounted my Mule, for there are no other Beasts of Carriage able to pass the Mountain; and found the Descent on the other side as troublesome and uneasie as the Ascent, which I have already describ'd.

The same Evening I arriv'd at Suza, a little Ci∣ty in the Frontiers of Piedmont, seated at the Foot of a Mountain, and separated from Turin by a vast and fertil Plain: It has the Advantage of a pure and healthy Air, pleasant Meadows, good Wine, and beautiful Houses. The warmth of the Cli∣mate exceeds that of France, but the Heat is not so intollerable as at Rome; so that the Traveller finds as great an Alteration at his Descent from the Mountains of Savoy, as if he were transported in an Instant from Norway to Italy; and is agree∣ably ravish'd at the sudden Change of a stormy Winter into a Mild and Temperate Spring.

The City of Turin is seated at the other end of this charming Plain, between the Po and the Loire, which furnish it abundantly with all the Necessa∣ries and Conveniences of Life. 'Tis enclos'd with strong Walls, and surrounded with broad, deep, and well-lin'd Ditches. The Cittadel is a Master∣piece of Fortification; for the Duke has spar'd no Cost to make it Strong and Magnificent; and if the Goodness of the Soil had been suitable to the Care he has taken to improve it, I'm confident

'twou'd have been absolutely impregnable. The Town is all glorious within, and adorn'd with a Thousand Beauties: The Publick Places are spa∣cious, all newly built with an admirable Regulari∣ty: The Streets are broad, and streight as a Line: The noblest improvements of Architecture are mag∣nificently display'd in the Palaces; the Gilding, Paintings, and other Ornaments of the Churches are suitable to the Beauty of the Buildings; the Shops are full of all sorts of rich and fine Stuffs; and the Academies for riding the Great Horse, Dan∣cing, and Martial Exercises, deserve a particular Observation. And to compleat the Glories of the Place, there is a Court, that, notwithstanding its smallness, may be justly reckon'd the Seat of Gal∣lantry and Politeness; 'Tis compos'd of a Society of both Sexes, that are equally Admirable; the Ladies for their resistless Charms; and the Men for a Nobleness of Mien, and Magnificence of Garb, that seems peculiar to themselves.

Thus, Sir, I have endeavour'd to give you in few Words, a just Idea of this Charming City; for it wou'd be an endless Labour to undertake the particular Description of every fine Church, and beautiful Palace, in a place where such Stru∣ctures are no Rarities. All the Ornaments of this City are Modern; at least I cou'd not, upon the strictest Enquiry, discover any other Antiquities than those in the Duke's Gallery, which is full of all sorts of fine Paintings, rare Munuscripts, Medals, Vases, and other Curiosities of that Na∣ture. The Gate of the Palace is defended with two Culverins, admirable for their Largeness and Workmanship; and a Mortar of a prodigious big∣ness. The Metropolitan Church is dedicated to S. John, and exceeds all the rest in Magnificence: 'Tis a stately Dome, enrich'd on the Inside with Paintings, of a finish'd Regularity and Fineness:

And to all the other Ornaments, there was lately added a Chapel of a surprizing Beauty and Rich∣ness. This admirable Structure is of an excellent Architecture, and seems in a manner to be over∣laid with a glittering Cover of Gold and Silver: 'Twas built on purpose for the Holy Handkerchief, which is kept there at present. You cannot ima∣gine with what Devotion the People of this Place adorn that Relick; which is a little Sheet, with the Image of our Saviour painted very imperfect∣ly in the middle, of a yellowish Colour. I need not tell you that this is commonly pretended to be the same Cloth in which Christ's Face was wrapt at his Burial, and that his Image was miracu∣lously stamp'd upon it: But there are so many other Pretenders to the same Dignity, that I will not undertake to decide so doubtful a Con∣troversie.

According to all Appearance, the Duke of Sa∣v••y will not remain long in the King's Interests; for he has already given out Commissions for the levying of two Regiments of Foot, and one of Dragoons, with an express Order, not to receive a Frenchman into 'em; and besides, 'tis certain that he did not oppose the Passage of the Bar∣bets, as he might have easily done: For all the Motions of his Troops, were only in Order to their Encampment at Verecil; and I'm persuaded the only reason why he suffer'd the French to act on that Occasion, was because he cou'd not hin∣der 'em.

I have met with another Obstacle, that will re∣tard my Journey to Isaly for some time; for the whole Country is full of Spaniards, who Infest all the Roads, and commit a Thousand Robberies. The People here are daily alarm'd with fresh Ac∣counts of these Disorders; so that I have been at last prevail'd with to alter my Resolution, and

am going to take Journey for Marseilles, where I'm certainly inform'd I may find daily Oppor∣tunities of embarking for Genoa or Leghorn.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Turin, Nov. 1689.

LETTER VI.

SIR,

DUring my short stay at Turin after the Wri∣ing of my last Letter, I had not the Op∣portunity of making any remarkable Observation that I had not taken notice of before; and there∣fore all that I shall add to the Account I gave you of that City, is, that the People have an extraordinary Love to their Sovereign. You'll per∣haps tell me, that this is not a very uncommon Observation, since 'tis natural for all Men to re∣spect their Governours: But I hope you'll acknow∣ledge, that there are various Degrees in this kind of Affection, as well as in all others; and that I cannot be accus'd of Trifling, when I assure you, that never was the Breast of any Subject fill'd with a more ardent and respectful Love to his Prince, than that which the Inhabitants of Pied∣mont have for the Duke of Savoy. Nor is their Zeal for his Interest, and Affection to his Per∣son, the Effect of a blind Inclination: For 'tis no wonder that those who owe their Happiness to the mild Influences of his Government are charm'd with the Greatness of his Courage and

Magnamity, and a Thousand other rare Perfecti∣ons, of which he is certainly Master in a very emi∣nent Degree.

The Dutchess is an illustrious Example of Con∣jugal Affection: 'tis true, she is not unmindful of the Blood that fills her Veins; nor will ever for∣get that Natural Inclination to the place of her Nativity, that obliges her to be the declar'd Pro∣tectress of the French: But her Love to her Coun∣try is not strong enough to lessen that which she owes to her Lord, and puts not the least Byass on her Mind when it comes in Competition with his Interest.

I forgot to tell you in my last, that it Rains almost perpetually at Turin; and, (whatever you may think on't) this is a very important Remark for Persons of my Humour and Fortune. I can∣not forbear complaining of the Unkindness of my Destiny, that exposes me to be drench'd with e∣very Shower for want of a Coach, and even en∣vying the Happiness of those who are better pro∣vided; for, if God had thought fit to intrust me with the Management of 10000 Livres a Year, I wou'd not have deny'd my self the Pleasure of Tra∣velling in a portable House.

From Turin I came in seven Hours to Pignerol. The Town is very well fortify'd; and the Citta∣del, as now it stands, after so many Additions and Alterations, may be justly reckon'd one of the strongest places in his Majesty's Possession, and a terrible Thorn in the Duke of Savoy's Foot, which may one Day make him halt, if he do not take care to pluck it out. Here the unfortunate Mon∣sieur Fouquet spent the last part of his Life, and (as 'tis generally believ'd) compos'd that admira∣ble Treatise, entitul'd, The Counsels of Wisdom. If that Report be true, even his Enemies must ac∣knowledge, that the Confinement of his Body di∣sturb'd

not the Freedom and Tranquillity of his Mind, and that he was entirely disengag'd from the Allurements of this World. Nevertheless, I'm certainly inform'd by Persons of unsuspected Cre∣dit, that he attempted to make his Escape by cut∣ting the Sheets of his Bed; and that he was after∣wards put under a Guard of four Centinels instead of one, as well as the Count de Lausun, who about four Years ago had little reason to flatter himself with the hopes of a Release. The Marquess d'Her∣ville, the present Governour of Pignerol, is a Man of a large and comely Stature, brave, and well ac∣quainted with the Duties of his Office.

Leaving Pignerol I proceeded on my Journey thro' the long Valley of Sestriere to Guillestre, and from thence by the Way of Briançon to Ambrun, a little City on the Frontiers of Dauphiné, inaccessible on one side, by reason of the Steepness of the Rock on which 'tis built, but only defended on the other with a weak and single Wall. The Archbishoprick of this Place is at present possess'd by Monsieur de Genlis, Nephew to the Marquess de Genlis, Lieute∣nant-General of his Majesty's Forces, and Captain-Lieutenant of the Duke of Anjou's Company of Geudarms. This Prelate signaliz'd his Courage and Zeal in the late Campaign against the Vaudois; for he remain'd in the Camp all the Summer, and was personally engag'd in the Battel of Salbertrand: And this unusual Bravery in a Man of his Character, has procur'd him so much Honour and Authority in the Country, that when I produc'd his Pass-Port at Gap, the Major, who commanded in the Place, told me that if it had been sign'd by the King himself it wou'd not have been so much respected. 'Tis true he gave me a very favourable Character, for he was not ignorant that I had the Honour to be very well known to his Uncle: and 'twas also on that Score

that he kept me two days at Ambrun, and entertain'd me with a great deal of Kindness.

You must give me leave to detain you a while with an Account of my fatiguing Passage over Mount Ge∣nevre: for tho' it be neither so large nor so high as Cenis, the crossing of that Mountain put me to more Trouble and Pain than ever I suffer'd in any one day of my Life. I was mounted on a Horse that was not worth Six-pence, which I hir'd of a Pea∣sant at Briançon, and accompany'd with a Guide who was utterly unacquainted with the Roads, and carry'd me quite out of the Way. But that was not my greatest Misfortune, for my Horse stuck so fast in the Snow, which reach'd above his Belly, that I cou'd not make him go one Step farther, and was at last forc'd to alight and endeavour to open a Pas∣sage for him to the High-way; for I perceiv'd cer∣tain Sticks at a considerable distance, which (I knew) were set up as Marks to keep Travellers from wan∣dring out of the Road. But I quickly found my Design impracticable, for both I and my Horse were so benumn'd with the Cold, that we cou'd hardly stir a Leg; and besides the Wind drove the Snow upon me faster than I cou'd rake it away: so that I was beginning to give over my useless Labour, and to reflect in good earnest on a Death that seem'd unavoidable, when I discover'd certain black Spots, that gave me some hope of finding a Village not far the place where I thought to have ended my days. Immediately I left my Guide, Horse and Baggage, and, feeble as I was, ventur'd into the midst of the Snow, in quest of those Houses, where at last, by God's Assistance, I arriv'd, and was receiv'd with all imaginable Marks of Kindness by those Hospi∣table Wretches, who brought me into one of their Hutts, which I found stuff'd with Oxen, Cows, Sheep, Cats, Dogs, and (the most miserable Part of the Family) Men and Women. Nevertheless

I assure you that the Sight of this Place, which perhaps at another time wou'd have turn'd my Sto∣mach, seem'd more charming to me in that Ex∣tremity, than the most glorious Palace that ever I be∣held: I fansi'd my self restor'd from Death to Life assoon as I enter'd that Resemblance of a Hog's Stie, which was as hot as a Stove. In the mean time I begg'd some of my kind Hosts to compleat their Charity, by going to relieve the Poor Creature, whom I had left with my Horse in the midst of the Snow: and their Assistance came very seasonably, for he had certainly perish'd if they had stay'd half a quarter of an hour longer. After I had the Satisfacti∣on of seeing him alive, I stretch'd my weary'd Body on a Heap of Straw, where I enjoy'd the most com∣fortable Night's Rest that ever I had in my Life. The next day I feasted on a Piece of Bread exactly of the Colour of Soot, and a little dry and salt Cheese; and was in the mean time entertain'd with an Ac∣count of their Way of Living in this Place. They told me that they were imprison'd in their dismal Habitations, and almost bury'd in the Snow for the Space of seven Months, every Year; during which time they linger out a miserable Life in the midst of Stench and Nastiness.

After my Arrival at Gap, I sent back my Horse, and hir'd another, which I found there by chance, to Sisteron. But to compleat the Misfortunes of my disastrous Journey, as I was crossing a very rapid Torrent about a League from the last of these Pla∣ces, having occasion to blow my Nose, I pull'd my Handkerchief out of my Pocket, and with that the Box with my Pass-Ports, which fell into the Stream, and was in an instant carry'd quite out of my Sight. If my Purse with all the Money I was Master of, had been irrecoverably lost, I cou'd not have been more sensibly vex'd: for when I consi∣der'd with what Rigour I had been every where ex∣amin'd

notwithstanding my Pass-Ports, I concluded that Imprisonment was the mildest Treatment I cou'd expect to receive at Sisteron. These Re∣flexions kept me for some time in an Irresolution, whether I shou'd go forwards; but since the Danger was equal either Way, I resolv'd to proceed on my Journey, tho' I shou'd be forc'd to take up my Lodging in a Gaol. I found, to my Cost, the Ac∣complishment of those Melancholick Presages; for the Governour laugh'd at my Excuses, and told me that I must needs have a very mean Opinion of his Judgment, if I thought to put him off with such an ill-contriv'd Story. Confess the Truth, added he, you are one of the Barbets, and are going to Langue∣doc and Dauphiné, to persuade the new Converts in those Provinces to join with your Party: I answer'd, That I was too Loyal a Subject to his Majesty, and too zealous a Catholick to undertake such a Com∣mission; that I was a meer Stranger to the Barbets; that I came from Turin, and was going to Rome. What, Sir, reply'd he, you came from Turin? Mor∣bleau, you came with the Barbets: I'm better acquainted with your Tricks than you imagine; I say you did come with 'em, and I'll shew you presently some of your own Friends, who will maintain it to your Face. Immedi∣ately he order'd two of those unhappy Wretches that were fall'n into his Hands, to be brought before him, and assoon as they appear'd, Here is one of your Officers, said he to 'em, whom we have caught strag∣gling. He wou'd have us believe that he has deserted your Party, and left you with a Design to submit to the King; but we have Reason to suspect his Sincerity. Con∣fess the Truth ingenuously, and declare all that you know concerning him, as the only way you can take to obtain the King's Mercy. If I had been guilty of entertaining a Correspondence with these People, I wou'd have immediately said something to undeceive 'em, and prevent their biting the Hook: but since I was alto∣gether

unacquainted with 'em, I was glad of that Occasion to justifie my Innocency, and expected their Answer with a Silence that confuted all my Accusers: and besides, the Prisoners affirm'd that they did not know me. Then the Governour be∣gan to examine me more particularly, and with less Prejudice than before: he ask'd me which way I came, where I receiv'd Pass-Ports, and who had any Knowledge of me. In answer to the last Que∣stion, having nam'd several Persons, and among the rest the Archbishop of Ambrun, the Governour assur'd me, that I might conclude my self out of Danger, if that Prelate wou'd undertake to answer for me; and I reply'd, that I hop'd he wou'd not deny me his Testimony. Then the Governour desir d me to write to him, telling me that he wou'd accom∣pany my Letter with another, and that in the mean time I shou'd be confin'd to the Cittadel, where I was lodg'd with two Lieutenants, from whom and the rest of the Officers, I receiv'd all imaginable Marks of. Civility. Four days after, the Governour having receiv'd a very favourable Answer from the Archbishop of Ambrun, sent for me, and told me that I was at Liberty to depart when I pleas'd. I return'd him my very humble Thanks for the Justice he did me, and intreated him to grant me a Pass-Port, since without that I shou'd certainly be stopp'd, and perhaps also abus'd by the first Corps de Garde of Peasants on the Road. But he assur'd me that there was no need of a Pass-Port, and that all the Roads were free, from Sisteron to Marseilles.

Since I have had occasion to mention the Bar∣bets so often, I believe it will not be an unwel∣come Gratification of your Curiosity, to give you an Account of the Original of that Name, which the Piedmontois and Savoyards give to the Protestants that inhabit their Valleys. The Word Barbe in their Language signifies Uncle; and besides, an An∣cient

and Venerable Person; so that in several Pla∣ces 'tis the usual Custom to express a more than or∣dinary Respect to a Person by prefixing this Word before his proper Name, as Barbe Peter, Barbe John, &c. And even by degrees it grew in such Esteem among 'em, that they thought they cou'd not give a more honourable Title to their Ministers, whom for that Reason they call'd Barbe du Plessis, Barbe du Menil, &c. From hence the Protestants in this Coun∣try were nick-nam'd Barbets, as in France they are call'd Hugonots, and in Flanders, Gueux.

Sisteron is seated on the Durance, and is so inconsi∣derable a Town, that 'twou'd be an useless Waste of Time and Paper to undertake the Description of it. The Cittadel stands on a very steep Mountain, and is consequently strong, but so small that 'tis scarce capable of Lodging three hundred Soldiers.

The Marquess de Vallevoir, the present Governour of this Place, is an old Officer, very well known, and much esteem'd by the Soldiers. The double Meaning of his Name had once almost cost him his Life; for as he was walking at Night on the Ram∣parts of a Town of which he was Governour, a new Soldier who was then on the Watch, not know∣ing him, saluted him with the usual Question on such Occasions, Qui va là, Who comes there? to which he answer'd, Vallevoir. But the Centinel imagining he had said in a slighting manner, Va le voir, Go see, and taking it either as an Affront, or as a Refusal to discover his Name and Quality, discharg'd his Mus∣quet, and shot him into the Belly so dangerously, that he had almost dy'd of the Wound.

From Sisteron I came in a Day and a half to Aix, which is but five Leagues distant from hence, and was founded by Caius Sextius, a Roman Consul, who call'd it by his own Name, in Memory of the Hot Baths he had built there, which are still to be seen without the Walls. 'Tis neither large nor strong,

but it may be justly said to be a very pleasant City, for 'tis seated in a lovely Plain, that produces Store of good Wine; and besides, 'tis adorn'd with a con∣siderable Number of new Houses, which are very fine, and built after the Italian Fashion. The Nobi∣lity of Provence are, without dispute, the greatest Lovers of Building in France, and are at the greatest Charge in gratifying their Inclinations to Archite∣cture; and there are in this Country a great Number of admirably well-contriv'd Structures that may pass for little Palaces. The Metropolitan Church, call'd S. Saviour's, is particularly remarkable for the Tombs of four Counts of Provence, a small subterraneous Chapel, where 'tis said S. Mary Magdalen ended her Days, and especially the Baptismal Font of white Marble, adorn'd with Reliefs that are much esteem'd by the best Judges, and cover'd with a little Marble Dome, supported with Columns of the same, ma∣king all together a very valuable Piece. The Place des Prêcheurs is the finest of all the spacious Courts or Squares in the City, both for its Neatness and Large∣ness, and for the Beauty of the Structures that sur∣round it, among which the ancient Palace of Justice deserves a particular Observation. In one of its A∣partments, where the Counts of Provence kept their Residence, there is a very fine Room, at present call'd, The King's Chamber, richly gilt, and hung round with the Pictures of our Kings. After the Traveller has satisfy'd his Curiosity in this Place, he may visit the Cours, or publick Walking-Place and Rendezvous of Coaches, which is 800 Paces long, and 15 broad, without reck'ning the pav'd Streets on both Sides for the Coaches. 'Tis enclos'd with Bal∣listers of Wood, and all over-shadow'd with tufty Trees, whose spreading Boughs cast such an agree∣able Coolness in the Heat of Summer, that one may walk in this lovely Place without the least incom∣modity, at Three a Clock in the Afternoon: and

besides, at convenient Intervals, there are Benches of Stone, where those who are weary may rest themselves. The Houses that environ it are all ve∣ry fine, and inhabited by Persons of Quality, who chuse to live there for the Pleasure of the Prospect, and the Conveniency of walking without losing Sight of their Houses. This is the general Rendez∣vous of the genteeler part of the Inhabitants of the Town, who flock hither every Evening, and en∣crease the Pleasures of the Place with their agreeable Society and Conversation. You will be easily per∣suaded to believe that there are some handsome Wo∣men to be found among so much good Company: but I'm afraid you'll stand in need of all your Faith to give Credit to another Observation I made in this City. 'Tis perhaps the peculiar Advantage of the Gen∣tlemen of Aix, that they are possess'd of the dearest and most distinguishing Privilege of the Beautiful Sex; Ten or Twelve of 'em especially, who are so many Adolphus's and Jucundus's, and out-vie the most charming Ladies that ever were admir'd for the delicate Mixture of Roses and Lilies in their Com∣plexion, the Lustre of their Eyes, and the incom∣parable Graces of their Mouth. These wondrous Youths are so many convincing Proofs of the Rea∣sonableness of the first Part of that common Saying in this Country, which ascribes the Preeminence in Beauty to the Men of Aix, and the Women of Mar∣seilles.

The whole Country of Provence is under the Au∣thority of the Parliament, which was establish'd here by Lewis XII. Ann. 1501. The Archbishoprick of this Place is remarkable for its Antiquity, and the Extent of its Jurisdiction: for 'tis the Metropo∣litan See of a very large Ecclesiastical Province, and the first Bishop was S. Maximin, a Disciple of S. La∣zarus.

Since the County of Provence was dismember'd from the Roman Empire, it has had the Misfortune to change its Masters very often: but instead of pre∣senting you with a Catalogue of all its Sovereigns, I shall content my self with observing that it was annex'd to the Crown of France, under the Reig•• of Lewis XI. by René, Count of Provence, and King of Naples and Sicily; and that the Privileges re∣serv'd to the Inhabitants, by the Conditions of that Donation, were involv'd in the same Fate with those of Languedoc, Dauphiné, Burgundy, Bretaign, &c. For you know the King has a notable Faculty of Judging in his own Cause, and is furnish'd on all Oc∣casions, with irresistible Arguments to demonstrate, That his Will and Pleasure are the only Limits of his Royal Authority.

The Air of this Province is so mild, that 'tis sel∣dom or never observ'd to be subject to Frosts: but the Advantages of its Climate are considerably les∣sen'd by the Boisterousness of the Winds that reign in it. And besides, the Country is generally so mountainous, that one half of it is not cultivated; and the little fertil Ground that remains, is so full of Stones, that a Man wou'd be tempted to think they had been purposely brought thither. The La∣bourers take care to remove those that lie in their way, and, instead of Hedges, surround their Fields with Stone-Walls, which are almost every where three Foot high: so that if ever this Country be made the Seat of a War, 'twill not be an easie Task to open a Passage thro' it for the Cavalry.

But, to make amends for the Inconveniency of the Soil, which is neither proper for Corn nor Pastu∣rage, it produces very good Wine, and great Store of such excellent Olives, that the Oil of 'em is esteem'd the best and sweetest in Europe. The Wine is of se∣veral Sorts; for, besides the Red, which is most com∣mon, and not inferiour to Burgundy, there is the Pale-Red,

Red, White, and delicious Muscadin. The best grows at Ciotat, a little Town between Marseilles and Tou∣lon; but 'twou'd be needless to describe its Excellen∣cies to you, who have tasted it so often at Paris. There is also a mix'd Sort of Wine, call'd Malmsey, much esteem'd by the People of this Country, who make it, by boyling Red Muscadin with Cinnamon, Cloves, and the best Aqua-Vitae. They have also abundance of Ortolans, (which are delicate, and very beautiful Birds, of the Bigness of a Lark) good Quails, Red-legg'd Partridges, and some Francolins, which are a Sort of the immediately preceding Spe∣cies of Birds, for they have both the same Cry, and Colour of Feathers; only the Wings of the latter are spotted, black and white, their Legs are some∣what smaller, and they are thought to exceed the others very considerably in their Agreeableness to the Taste. But all these Marks are not sufficient to distin∣guish 'em when they are dress'd, and therefore the Cooks usually stick one of the Feathers of the Wings into the Body of a Francolin, that it may not be ta∣ken for a Red Partridge. 'Tis not so hard a Task to know the delicious Earth-Apples or Swine-bread, that are so cheap in this Country: for tho' they are brought to the Table cover'd with a Napkin to keep 'em warm, the whole Chamber is immediately perfum'd with their odoriferous Scent. You must not ima∣gine your self to be a competent Judge of this excel∣lent subterraneous Fruit, because you commonly eat 'em dry'd in Ragou's at Paris: for they are incompara∣bly more pleasant, when the fresh Pulp is eaten like an Apple, without any other Preparation than peeling off the Rind. 'Tis certain, that Maids have reason to complain of the Tyrannical Custom that restrains 'em from tasting a Dish which all the World ad∣mires, under Pretext that 'tis too powerful an Incen∣tive to Amorous Inclinations.

This kind of Earth-Apple is neither a Plant, Herb, nor Mushroom: it grows in a very little time, some∣times equalling a Man's Fist in Bigness; and is al∣ways found at the depth of half a Foot under the Surface of the Ground. 'Twou'd be impossible to discover these admirable Productions of the Earth, without the Assistance of the Hogs, who smell 'em out: The Country People follow these Animals, especially when they perceive 'em busi'd in digging up the Ground; and when they have gather'd so many, that the Weight of 'em may amount to five or six Pounds, they carry 'em to the Market, where they sell 'em for 7 or 8 Sous a Pound. Next these you cannot imagine any thing of a more delicious Taste than the large Grapes of Provence, which the People of the Country have the Secret to preserve till May, as fresh as if they were newly pick'd from the Tree, bringing Baskets full of 'em every Day to the Mar∣ket. But this is not the only Reason why Provence may boast of an Autumn in the midst of Winter; for the Arbute-Trees are not only ever green, like Bays, but continue to bear Fruit till Carnaval-time. This Fru•••• resembles a very large Straw-berry; but its Goodness is not answerable to its Beauty, for 'tis full of small Seeds like Sand. These, with the ex∣cellent Figs that are so common in this Country, and some Peaches, are, I think, all the Kinds of Fruit that are to be found in it. But I must except the Canton of Hieres, which may justly di∣spute with Blois the Title of The Garden of France: For Orange, Citron, and Pomegranate-Trees grow as naturally there, and are brought up with as little Care as Oaks and Chesnut-Trees in other Places. These Advantages are owing to the peculiar Ad∣vantages of its Situation; for it seems to ingross all the Heat and fruitful Influences of the Sun, and to be wholly exempted from all the Inconveniencies of even the sharpest Winters.

You may expect in my next an Account of the City of Marseilles, and of S. Baume; In the mean time I am, with a great deal of Zeal and Affection,

SIR,

Your &c.

Marseilles, Dec. 1689.

LETTER VII.

SIR,

MArseilles is one of the most ancient Cities in France; and tho it was famous in all Ages, 'tis not an easie Task to trace its Original, not∣withstanding the Opinion of some Writers, who pretend that 'twas founded by the Greek Exiles, who were driven out of their Country by Cyrus the Great. 'Twas formerly the seat of an Illustri∣ous Assembly of learned Senators, and of an Ac∣cademy, which was the general Rendezvous of Studious Persons from all the Corners of the World. These glorious Advantages made it in a manner the Metropolis of the Commonwealth of Learning; and inspir'd the Romans with so high an Esteem for it, that they courted the Friendship of the Citizens of Marseilles, while the rest of the Inhabitants of Pro∣vence were their Conquer'd Vassals. After the Fall of the Roman Empire, 'twas govern'd as a Re∣publick by four Counts; till at last the Inhabi∣tants, finding themselves unable to withstand the united force of their Neighbours, put themselves under the Authority and Protection of the Kings of France. But the Conditions of this Voluntary Submission were very Honourable and Advantage∣ous

for 'twas concluded, that the City and its Territory, which comprehends two Leagues round, shou'd be exempted from all manner of Taxes, Charges, and Impositions; that the King shou'd not pretend a Right to any Customs or Duties for Goods Exported or Imported; That the City shou'd be govern'd by Four Consuls, who shou'd hold their Office for Life, and be elected by the Citizens; only 'twas agreed, That one Judge or Magistrate might be sent by the King, with the Title of Viguier: That they shou'd not be oblig'd to receive any Garrison, or be commanded by a∣ny Cittadel but that of Nôtre-Dame de la Garde: Besides several other Articles of the same Nature, which remain'd in force till the King's Voyage thither; when he took the occasion of a Mutiny that was rais'd against the Duke of Guise, General of his Galleys, to abolish all the Privileges of Mar∣seilles. You may imagine with what Consterna∣tion and inward Rage they heard of their Sove∣reign's Approach in a Hostile manner, with an Ar∣my at his Heels; and afterwards beheld him enter the Breach as into a conquer'd City: However they set a good Face on't, and resolving to make the best they cou'd of a desperate Game, recei∣ved the Destroyer of their Liberty with all ima∣ginable Marks of Love and Respect. In the mean time he order'd ten thousand Men to march into the City, who seiz'd on the principal Posts, and were lodg'd in the Citizen's Houses; and after∣wards told 'em, that he had observ'd a great Number of pretty Buildings in their Territory, and was so well pleas'd with 'em, that he was resolv'd to build one more. This Design was quickly put in execution; for the Cittadel was erected at the Mouth of the Port on the Right-side, and Fort S. John on the other. The People of Marseilles perceiving that Reason was too feeble a Defence

against Violence, very tamely submitted to the new Yoke that was impos'd upon 'em: And their forc'd Complaisance on this Occasion, was made the Subject of a Song; of which these are two Stanza's:

He told'em he wou'd build a Fort, And swore 'twas meerly to protect 'em: They swore again they thank'd him for't, Because they durst not contradict him.

They vow'd they were his loyal Slaves, With Lives and Fortunes to assist him; Ready to serve him to their Graves, Because unable to resist him.

Whatever were the Sentiments of these unfor∣tunate People at that time, I can assure you that most of the old Inhabitants are struck with so much Horrour at the remembrance of that. Dis∣aster, that they never relate the Story of it with∣out the deepest Marks of a lively Sorrow. And they still retain such an inconceivable Abhorrence against the French, that they scarce ever mention 'em but in the most reproachful Terms that Spite or Disdain can invent. They look upon all those of that Nation to be contemptible Wretches; and you cannot do 'em a more provoking Injury than to call 'em Frenchmen. I cannot give you a more lively Representation of their implacable Hatred against our Nation, than by relating a Story which I heard t'other Day: When the King concluded the last Peace with Algiers, Commissioners were sent on board all the Galleys, and into the Baths, to release all the French Slaves they cou'd find: Some of these Officers perceiving a Man, whom they took to be one of their own Nation, stand∣ing in a careless manner, without showing the

least desire to be Enroll'd in their List, ask'd him, Whether he was a Frenchman: No, answer'd he: What Countryman art thou then? said one of the Com∣missioners: I'm a Native of Marseilles, reply'd the Slave: Very well, said the Commssioners; write to thy King of Marseilles, that he may set thee at liberty. This is no contriv'd Story, but so certain and well-attested a Truth, that I know some Persons who were present when the Accident happen'd: Nor will the credibleness of this Relation be que∣stion'd by any who have had occasion to con∣verse with the Inhabitants of this City, or to be Witnesses of their extreme Aversion against our Countrymen. If any of 'em gives his Daughter in Marriage to a Frenchman, or makes a Man of that Nation his particular Friend, he exposes him∣self infallibly to the Hatred and Scorn of all his Neighbours: And if a Maid shou'd receive a Vi∣sit from a Frenchman, she might for ever despair of finding a Husband in her own Country. To conclude; The People of Marseilles are in all re∣spects diametrically opposite to us; only I must except from this general Rule, the Nobility of this City, and of the Country in which 'tis seated, than whom there are none of their Quality in France that can lay a juster Claim to Antiquity of Descent, and Politeness of Manners; nor any that are better affected to his Majesty's Ser∣vice.

The Language of Provence is extremely harsh and unpleasant, especially in Marseilles, and the Terri∣tory that belongs to it, where the Pronunciation is as Guttural as in Arabia. You can hardly ima∣gine what a vast Alteration the very Sound or Accent makes in a Language: There is scarce any difference at all between the Words of the Dia∣lects that are us'd in Provence and Languedoc, and nevertheless this is as amorous and agreeable as

that is rough and uncouth. A Stranger is never more sensible of the Truth of this Observation, than at his first Arrival: And I remember that the very Day on which I came to this City, I was astonish'd at the intolerable Clownishness with which a handsome young Lady pronounc'd these Words, to diswade one of her Kinsmen from quarrelling with an ordinary Woman: Hai, mon Cousin, said she, laché stata quelle femme, non sabais pas qua cau à la teste dau Diable. This made me tell a Gentleman, who, some Days after, ask'd my Opinion of the Women of Marseilles, That I ad∣mir'd their Beauty, but cou'd wish they were dumb, because their Speech was such a Bugbear, that all the Charms of their Countenance cou'd never retain a French Lover. If you were acquainted with their Humour, reply'd he, you wou'd be easily convinc'd, that the very Reason you alledge wou'd make 'em in love with their Pronounciation.

Marseilles is one of the most populous Cities in France; but the third part of those who reside in it are Strangers. The old part of the Town is neither very large nor fair: The Streets are nar∣row, crooked, and uneven, by reason of its Situ∣ation on a Hillock; but 'tis at least double of what it was thirty Years ago. The Cours, or Pub∣lick Place for taking the Air, is exactly in the middle of a long and very streight Street, that reaches from the Gate of Aix to that of Rome, and separates the Old from the New Town. 'Tis 1000 Paces long, (which is only the third part of the length of the Street) and in all other re∣spects is like to that of Aix. Four Men are hir'd by the City, to Water it twice a Day in Summer, that the Dust may not offend the Gentlemen and Citizens, who flock thither every Evening in such Multitudes, that a Man can hardly turn himself in the Croud. The Houses that Border it are

built pretty regularly, but are not so fine as at Aix.

The New City is well built; the Streets are broad, streight, and light; and besides, 'tis con∣siderable for the Quality of its Inhabitants; for all the Officers of the Galleys, the Gentry, and the richer part of the Citizens chuse to live in it. The Extent of the Walls of the City has been considerably augmented within these three Years; for besides what they contain••d before, there is a large Space enclos'd behind the Arsenal for a ••lace of Arms, which (when finish'd) will be 300 Paces square. The King bestows the Ground about this Place on those who will build Houses on it, provided they observe the Lines mark'd out for that purpose. By means of this new Ad∣dition, the Abbey of S. Victor is advanc'd further within the Town, being a Monastery of unre∣form'd Benedictines, who acknowledge no other Superiour but the Pope, in Ecclesiastical Cases. There are 50000 Livres a Year annex'd to this House, for the Maintenance of eighteen or twen∣ty Monks, who know very well how to enjoy all the comforts of so plentiful a Revenue. The Neighbourhood of these Independent Gentlemen is so great an Eye-sore to the Bishop of Marseilles, that he has several times endeavour'd to make 'em consent to the Re-union of their Monastery with the Chapter of the Cathedral, offering 'em all the Privileges of the Canons, with the Coadju∣torship of the Bishoprick for their Prior: But they have hitherto kept themselves from being dazzl'd with the seeming Advantageousness of these Proposals. The present Bishop is of the Family of Vintimille, descended from the Counts of Marseilles, and Nephew of Cardinal Fourbain Janson, his Prede∣cessor in the Bishoprick. He is well-shap'd, hand∣some, not above thirty Years old, has very much

the Air of the Court, and might be reckon'd a very handsome Man, if his Teeth were some∣what smaller, and more evenly set. He is a Man of Sence and good Breeding, of a pleasant Wit and agreeable Conversation. He is none of those morose Censurers, who affect a certain Surliness and ill Humour on all Occasions. His Life is a convincing Argument that the Pleasures of this World are not altogether inconsistent with Devo∣tion. He plays, hears Opera's, visits Ladies, and if we may believe the common Report, is not hated by 'em: Yet all these must be acknow∣ledg'd to be innocent Liberties, since he always preserves a due regard to the Laws of Decency, and never seems to be guilty of any Criminal Design. I know a Person who took the liberey to desire the use of his Purple Habit and Golden Cross, for a Masque: The Prelate reply'd, That these Accoutrements were Sacred; but very civilly accommodated him with his Cassock, short Cloak, and Perriwig. He has a Niece who is admitted into the Nunnery of S. Ursula, at Mar∣seilles, and is certainly the most amiable Girl in the World: His Affection to her is suitable to her Merit; and since she is yet too young to bear the Austerities of a Religious Life, he suffers her to live with her Father, the Marquess de Fourbain: In the mean time he visits her daily, and instructs her in all the Duties of her Profession. Let us leave 'em in this Holy Occupation, and take a View of the Port of Marseilles.

'Tis inclos'd within the City, which secures it on all sides from the Violence of the Winds; and its Mouth that before was not above thirty Paces broad, is streighten'd by two Moles, lea∣ving a very narrow Passage for the Galleys, which is shut up with a Chain every Night, and open'd at Seven in the Morning. The Har∣bour

by the largest Computation is not above twelve hundred Paces long, and three hundred broad; and besides, 'tis so shallow that a Man of War cannot enter into it. However 'tis the Sta∣tion of all the King's Galleys, of which there are forty five, including the old Patronne, which at present serves only for a Show, and for an Instance of the late prodigious Increase of the French Grandeur. All the rest of the Galleys are magnificently Painted and Gilt, especially the new Patronne, which is adorn'd with the finest Basso-Relievo's that are made in this Age: Besides the Flags, Banners, Streamers, and Pendants, which are all incredibly Rich. All these Ornaments are of the best and finest red Dama••k, with Flower-de-Lu∣ces, Devices, and Coats of Arms embroider'd with Gold: The principal Flag is above forty Foot long, and ten broad; and all the rest are propor∣tionably large: The Poop, where the General has his Chamber, is cover'd with the same Stuff, en∣rich'd with a Fringe of Gold and Silk.

All the other Galleys are adorn'd after the same manner, only instead of Gold they have Yel∣lowish Silk, which is no less agreeable to the Sight, especially at a Distance. 'Tis impossible to be∣hold a more stately Prospect than those Galleys when they appear in all their Magnificence on Sundays and Holydays. But notwithstanding all these external Beauties, they are only splendid Prisons to the most miserable Wretches in the World; the poor Slaves are chain'd together, ea∣ten up with Vermin and Scabs, beaten from Morn∣ing to Night, and expos'd to all the Injuries of Cold. Their only Habit is a sort of wide and short Jacket, without Shooes or Stockings, without a Shirt for Change, without Straw to lie upon, without any other Food than a little Bread as black as Soot; and to crown their Misery, without the

least hope of a Deliverance from this deplorable Captivity, more insupportable than that of the Turks. There comes not a Person of Quality to Marseilles whom the Intendant does not regale with this sight on board the new Patronne, which on these Occasions is embellish'd with all its Or∣naments. The Galley-Slaves perform their Exer∣cise by the Sound of a Fisquet: First they salute the Intendant and those that are with him, bel∣lowing out thrice Hou, hou, hou, as if they were Bears in a Humane Form: In the next place they stretch a Rope from one side of the Galley to the other, and then a Sail-Yard; this done, they set up the Tent and take it down again; after which comes the most necessary part of their Exercise, they pull off their Jackets and Shirts, shaking off the Lice into the Sea, and sweeping 'em away with their Hands: Then they put on their Clothes, and the Haut-boys entertain their Company; who at their Departure receive the same howling Sa∣lutation as at first. I know not what Pleasure some Persons may take in beholding so dismal a Spectacle, but I assure you it had a quite con∣trary Effect upon me: I was altogether unable to resist the Motions of a most tender Compassion, mixt with Horrour; and I'm persuaded you cou'd not preserve the usual Tranquillity of your Mind at the reading of a lively Recital of the Reflexi∣ons I made on this Occasion: I shall therefore leave this melancholy Subject, and proceed to en∣tertain you with something more diverting.

These Galleys are Mann'd with a Regiment, compos'd of as many Companies as there are Ves∣sels, each Company consisting of one hundred and twenty Men, who exceed all the Soldiers in the King's Service, in Comeliness of Person, and Large∣ness of Stature; for the Captains never grudge to advance Ten Louis d' Or's when they meet with a

Man that pleases 'em: And besides, there are two considerable Encouragements that invite Men to enter into this Service; for they have a Sous a Day more than in the Land-Army; and the Campaign, or time of Action, never lasts above two Months. There is also a distinct Company, call'd the Guards of the Standard, who are cloath'd in Red, with a Gold Galoon, and train'd up to be Ensigns of the Galleys: This Company consisted formerly of fifty Men, but their Number was doubl'd this Winter, and 'twas order'd that no Person henceforth shou'd be admitted into it, without a Brevet.

The Duke of Maine is at present General of the Galleys; but since that Office is purely Honorary, all the Duties of it are executed by the Lieutenant-General, the Chevalier de Noailles, Brother to the Duke of that Name. This Officer is much envy'd, if not hated, by some old Commanders of Squa∣drons, who grumbl'd extremely to see him advanc'd before 'em; yet since he is a very brave Man, and possess'd of his Master's Favour, his Court is al∣ways pretty numerous. Some days ago he visited the Arsenal, and I took hold of that Occasion to sa∣tisfie my Curiosity, which I cou'd hardly have done at another time; for Monsieur de Montmor, the In∣tendant, keeps the Keys of the most considerable Places, and never parts with 'em out of his Custody, but when there is something to be done that requires the opening of the Doors. Tho' this Arsenal was not begun to be built till about Thirty Years ago, it may be divided into the Old and the New; since the Additions that have been made within these four Years, make it at least double of what it was before. The Length of the Old Arsenal is equal to the Breadth of the Port which it fronts; It contains particular Magazines for all the Galleys, mark'd with their respective Names, with large Round

Doors. This is the Lower Story on one Side; the other contains Magazines of Cannon, Bombs, Car∣casses, and Gun-Powder, in which 'tis said there are Two thousand Pieces of Cannon, and Five hun∣dred Bombs. The Upper Story is divided into Rooms, where the Flags, Pendants, Sails, and the rest of the Tackling are kept; but most of 'em are empty. Here is also a fair Hall of Arms, the Walls of which are hung with Six thousand Musquets, and as many Sabres, all kept in very good Order: And near this is another, where there are Five hun∣dred Sutes of Armour, all intire and bright as Silver. The whole Arsenal is one single Mass of Building, in the Middle of which there is a Dome with a Clock: and tho' in the general it may be reckon'd a fine Building, there is nothing in it that deserves to be admir'd. The New Arsenal begins where the other ends, and stretches along the Port almost to the Cit∣tadel: 'Tis larger than the Old Arsenal, tho' not so well built, but when 'tis finish'd 'twill exceed the other, not only in Vastness of Extent, but in the Beauty and Con∣veniency of a fine Canal, thro' which the Galleys may come to the Doors of their respective Maga∣zines. 'Tis also said that there will be Stoves built there for the Galley-Slaves, to lessen the Miseries they usually suffer in the Winter. This is the Place where the Galleys are built, in a certain dry Ditch or Dock, into which they can let as much Water as they please, by a Sluce; so that the Galley is im∣mediately set a-float, without the least Trouble in Lanching it. The Place of Arms, of which I took notice before, will be behind the Arsenal.

There is not one fine Church in Marseilles, but there are some very ancient. That of Nôtre-Dame des Accoules was formerly consecrated to Pallas, that of S. Saviour to Apollo, and the Cathedral or Church de la Major, is said to have been a Temple of Di∣ana. In the last the Body of S. Lazarus, the first

Bishop of this City, is kept in a Silver Shrine; and there are several other Holy Rarities both in this and S. Victor's Church; where, besides the Head of that Saint, they preserve the True Cross of S. An∣drew, which is seven Foot long, and consists of two Joists join'd cross-ways, after the Figure of an X. Here is also a Grotto, where Mary Magdalen did Pe∣nance for some time. The whole City is full of such Places, but none of 'em is so much respected as S. Baume, where 'tis said she liv'd 33 Years. Not∣withstanding all the Difficulties and discouraging Rubbs I met with in my Passage thro' the Moun∣tains, my Curiosity was still strong enough to ob∣lige me to undertake a Pilgrimage to that Place; and in my next you may expect an Account of the Observations I made there.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Marseilles, Feb. 1690.

LETTER VIII.

SIR,

S. Baume is a Cave in the midst of a Rock, which is so extremely high and steep, that by taking a distant View of this Place, you wou'd think it im∣possible to ascend to it. And certainly the Ascent was very difficult at first, since at present, tho' there are Steps very industriously cut out of the Rock, it requires a Man's whole Skill and Agility to mount these artificial Stairs, holding his Horse by the Bri∣••le; and the Pleasure of arriving at the Top of 'em

is very considerably increas'd by the need one has of Rest. This Rock is the Top of the highest Moun∣tain of Provence, between Marseilles and Toulon; and you must ascend continually for the space of two Hours, before you can arrive at the Rock: The Cave is possess'd by certain Jacobin Friars, sent thither by the Prior of S. Maximin, who al∣lows each of 'em a Thousand Livres a Year for their Maintenance, without reckoning their Masses: And I'm confident they cannot spare much out of so considerable a Revenue, since they are ob∣lig'd to be at a vast and almost daily Charge for the Carriage of such things as are necessary for their Subsistence, the Situation of the Place not permitting 'em to lay up great store of Provisi∣ons. On the right side of the Entrance into the Cave, they have taken Advantage of a piece of the Rock that jutts out beyond the rest of it, to contrive a little Convent, consisting of seventeen Cells, and three double Chambers, which are ap∣pointed for the King, the Bishop, and the Go∣vernour of the Province, or at least are call'd by their Names. On the other side of the Entry there is an Inn, where we paid dear for what we eat, besides the Chaplets and Medals with which my Companions loaded themselves. 'Tis Morally impossible that ever any Person cou'd have liv'd in this Cave as many Days as Mary Magdalen, according to the Tradition, liv'd Years in it, by reason of the extreme Coldness and Moistness of the place, occasion'd by the conti∣nual dropping of Water from the impending Rock, which falls in such abundance, that it fills a kind of Well or Cistern below. The Monks pretend that this perpetual dropping is a miraculous Em∣blem of the Tears which that Saint shed in this place; and that 'tis naturally impossible for Water to spring out of so high a Rock. This is

a Philosophical Question, which you may deter∣mine at your leisure; for I'm resolv'd to say nothing on this Subject that may prepossess your Judgment.

In the bottom of the Cave there is a little Rock, about three Foot high, which I vehement∣ly suspect to be Artificial; for 'tis exactly con∣triv'd like a Bed, with the resemblance of a Bol∣ster, as if it had been made on purpose for that use. 'Tis inclos'd with a great Iron Grate, which the Monks open, that the Spectators may have a full View of the Saint's Image of Marble, paint∣ed and gilt: She is laid at her full length, her Head leaning on her Right-hand, and in her o∣ther holding the Pix, in which she kept consecra∣ted Wafers or Hosts. This Image is much bigger than the Life, being seven Foot long; and yet they pretend that 'tis an exact imitation both of her Face and Stature. 'Tis strange that the Scripture shou'd neither mention her unusual Bigness, her Quality, (for they say she was a Princess) nor her Voyage: And 'tis still more surprizing, that a Woman of her Stature cou'd charm such a Croud of Lovers: I know not whether the Men of her Age had a particular Inclination to Court Gian∣tesses; but I question very much whether such a Bouncing Girl wou'd find so many Admirers a∣mong us.

After a Traveller has satisfy'd his Curiosity with a View of all these Rarities, it is the usual Cu∣stom to go up to the Top of the Rock, call'd S. Pilon, whither that Saint was carried seven times a Day by the Angels, that she might have the Convenience of saying her Prayers at that Place. I will not detain you with the particular Rela∣tion of the rest of her Adventures: But since, per∣haps, you may not be unwilling to know how, and by what odd Accident she came to this Place,

I shall give you a short Account of that part of her History. After our Saviour's Ascension, there arose a violent Persecution against his Disciples, as you may see at length in the Acts of the Apo∣stles: Among the rest, the Family of S. Lazarus was involv'd in the common Calamity; but the Jews, unwilling to make Persons of Quality suf∣fer the utmost Severities that were usually inflict∣ed on others, instead of putting 'em to Death, plac'd Lazarus and his Sister, S. Maximin, and some others, whose Names I do not remember, in a Bark, without Oars, Rudder, or Sails, abandoning 'em to the Mercy of the Winds, which by the Providence of God, brought 'em into the Port of Marseilles, where they spent several Years in Preach∣ing the Gospel: Their Memory is preserv'd to this Day, by a great number of Chapels erected in the places where 'tis pretended the He and She Saints usually pronounc'd their Sermons; which had such a prevailing Influence on their Hearers, that the whole City was converted. After such happy Success, S. Lazarus was made Bishop, and Mary Magdalen went to do Penance in the horrid Cave of S. Baume. Her Head, and one of her Arms are kept at S. Maximin, amongst a great num∣ber of fine Relicks: Her Head is enchas'd in a kind of Bust of Gold, ending a little below her Shoulders, and enrich'd with a great number of very fine Jewels, among which there is an admi∣rable Ruby, equalling a Man's Thumb both in Length and Breadth: This Bust was presented by Charles II. King of Switzerland, Count of Pro∣vence. The whole Face of this Head is expos'd to view, contrary to the Custom of other Places, where the Shrine is only show'd, and the Specta∣tor must imploy his Faith, if it be strong enough, to discover the Relicks: But here one may di∣stinctly perceive a Death's-Head of so vast a size,

that if it be Mary Magdalen's, we cannot justly refuse our Assent to the Tradition, that assures us of the unusual Bulkiness of the rest of her Bo∣dy. Our Guide made us observe a little dry Scurf about the middle of her Forehead, some∣what towards her Left Eye, and told us, that this was the place where our Saviour put his Fin∣ger, when, after his Resurrection, he said to her,* 1.1 Touch me not, &c. But since I had never observ'd in the Scripture, that Christ put his Finger on her Fore∣head, when he spake these Words, I ask'd a Fa∣ther where I might find that Passage: He told me that it was a Holy Tradition of the Church, which I was oblig'd to believe, under pain of Heresie; adding, upon the Authority of the same Tradition, That during the Forty Days which Christ spent with his Disciples after his Resurrection† 1.2, he never touch'd any thing but this part of Mary Mag∣dalen's Forehead, and S. Thomas's Hand, both which remain entire to this Day.

This Head is preserv'd in a Subterraneous Cave, clos'd with four Iron Doors; and we were told, that the Bodies of S. Magdalen, S. Maximin, S. Mar∣cellus, and S. Sidonius, were put into four Marble Sepulchres, that are still to be seen in this Cave, which was contriv'd on purpose for their Bury∣ing-place; but that these Holy Bodies were after∣wards more honourably lodg'd. In the same Cave, or Subterraneous Chapel, they shew also a little Glass Vial, containing certain small Flints that were moistened with the Blood that our Saviour shed upon the Cross; endeavouring to make the Spe∣ctatours

believe that the Blood is still visible; but whatever care I took to consider these Flints with all imaginable Attention, I cou'd not perceive the least Tincture of Blood. Coming up from hence, we were desir'd to take Notice of a Shrine of Porphyrie, which contains the rest of that Saint's Bones, except one of her Arms, which is enchas'd in Silver, and suitable in bigness to the Head: Her Flaxen Hair is in another Reliquary: And there are in the same place many other Rarities of this Na∣ture, which 'twou'd be too tedious to enume∣rate.

The Church that belongs to this Convent, is large, well lighted, and very much esteem'd for its Architecture. The Inside is adorn'd with se∣veral fine Marble Columns, especially the great Altar, which was built by Lewis XIII. in perfor∣mance of a Vow; and is reckon'd one of the largest, and most magnificent Altars in France. All the rest of the Church is cover'd with Paintings, by the most celebrated Hands, which are also the Effects of Vows: And every Altar is enrich'd with all sorts of Vessels, Candlesticks, Lamps, and other Ornaments of Gold and Silver, in great abundance. This Church was built by Charles, Duke of Anjou, King of Sicily, who en∣dow'd it with a very plentiful Revenue; and the Foundation being since encreas'd by the Piety of our Kings, there is a very honourable Maintenance for Fifty Monks who live here.

I'm afraid the Holiness of the Place will scarce make amends for my detaining you so long at S. Baume; and therefore since a change of Enter∣tainment is always very acceptable to a cloy'd Ap∣petite, I hope you will have the less Reluctancy to accompany me in a little Journey to Arles and Nismes, where you might divert your self with a View of those Admirable Antiquities, and

Illustrious Monuments of the Roman Grandeur that are to be seen in those places.

Arles is a City of Provence, and was formerly the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name. 'Twas adorn'd by its old Masters, the Romans, with Temples, Palaces, Amphitheatres, and other magnificent Works, most of which were ruin'd in the succeeding Revolutions. The Amphitheatre, commonly call'd les Arrenes, has escap'd the Fate of the rest, tho' not so well as that of Nîmes; for 'tis impossible to walk on the Top from one end to the other; so that I cou'd not measure its Length and Breadth.

The Town-House is very remarkable, both for its Structure and Antiquities: Among the rest there is a Marble Statue of Diana, which former∣ly pronounc'd Oracles to those who came to consult her in her Temple, which was seated in the same place where the Town-House stands at pre∣sent, as appears by the Foundations that are un∣der the Clock-Tower. All the Walls of the City are full of pieces of Statues, Cornices, and Co∣lumns, which give the Spectatour a great Idea of the Number and Beauty of its Ancient Orna∣ments. Among its finest Antiquities, I may just∣ly reckon that admirable Obelisk which some Years ago was found entire in the Ground, and was since erected to the Glory of Lewis the Great, by the Care and Contrivance of the Gen∣tlemen of the Royal Academy, with very beautiful Inscriptions on the Pedestal, both in Latine and French; and a Golden Sun on the Top, which you know is the King's Emblem, and the Soul of his Device. This Obelisk wants the usual Ornament of Monuments of that Nature, and, at least in this respect may be justly esteem'd a Rarity. But tho' there are no Hieroglyphical Figures upon it, to determine its Age, and discover its first Contri∣vers,

'tis generally reputed a Work of the Egyp∣tians. I know not whether the same Opinion will prevail in After-Ages; for perhaps Posterity viewing the Inscriptions that have been lately ad∣ded to it, will do our Age the Honour to be∣lieve that 'twas capable of Undertaking and Fi∣nishing such Works; if they be not kept from falling into that Errour, by the Consideration of the Granite of which 'tis built.

This City is the Seat of an Archbishop, and of an Academy of Ingenious Persons, under the Name of the Royal Academy of Arles; to whom the Publick must own it self oblig'd for many Curious and Learned Treatises. 'Tis situated on the Rhône, at the distance of seven Leagues from its Mouth: But no Ship, nor great Bark, can come up to the City, by reason of the Banks of Sand with which that River is pester'd.

Having satisfy'd my Curiosity at Arles, I re∣solv'd to visit Nismes, one of the most remarkable Cities in Languedoc, for its Trade, Antiquity, and I may also add, for its Largeness, tho' 'tis at pre∣sent much less considerable in that respect than when (if we may give credit to History) 'twas founded by Marius, who chose this for the place of his Residence, and built it in imitation of Rome, observing an exact Equality in the Dimensions of the New City, as well as in its Publick Places and Buildings. But Time, that impartial Destroy∣er of all things, has made so many Alterations in both these Illustrious Cities, that at present there is not the least Resemblance between 'em.

The principal Monument of Antiquity at Nis∣mes, is its Amphitheatre, the largest and most en∣tire Structure of that Nature that is at present to be seen in any part of the World. I cannot forbear complaining that Private Persons are suf∣fer'd to fill it with Houses, which quite take away

the Prospect of it, and consequently all its Beau∣ty; whereas if it were still empty, as when 'twas possess'd by the Romans, all the Curious part of the World wou'd come to admire the Magnifi∣cence of its Structure. 'Tis of a perfectly round or circular Figure, having only one Door, with a Tower on each side of it: It contains 150 Pa∣ces in Diameter, and its Circumference amounts to 460. The Inside of the Circle is Pyramidal, in form of Stairs, where the People sate to behold the Fights of Beasts, and other Publick Sights; and below there are very fair vaulted Galleries, where the Spectatours might walk till the Shows began. This lower Story is adorn'd with fine Co∣lumns, with their Cornices; and from place to place there are Heads of Animals, Eagles and Fasces in Relief. The whole Amphitheatre is built of large Free-Stones, some of which are three Foot square on all sides; and particularly those on the Top of the Building.

We went out at the Gate la Bouquerie, to see the famous Temple of Diana, where that Goddess pronounc'd her Oracles. 'Tis an exact Square, the length of each side amounting to Seventy Pa∣ces: The Door is round, ten Foot broad, and fifteen high. This is a very Massive Edifice, ac∣cording to the ancient manner of Building, and consists of Stones as large as those of the Amphi∣theatre; so that it might serve for a Fort in Case of Necessity, and even might hold out for some time against Cannon.

Not far from thence there is another no less remarkable Structure, call'd, la Tour Magne, which we may reasonably conclude to have been design'd for a Mausolaeum, and built in imitation, tho' not after the Model, of the Egyptian Monu∣ments. 'Tis a high and solid Pyramidal Tower, without any Vault or Concavity; and there are

Steps made round it, by which one may ascend to the Top, tho' not without Danger; for they are extremely worn and broken in several places; so that I chose rather to content my self with viewing it from below, than to run the hazard of going up. From thence I return'd to the City, and went to see an old Palace, call'd, The Square House, which at present is the Dwelling-House of a Private Person. 'Tis much longer than broad, built with great Free-Stones, and adorn'd on the Outside with several fine Columns, with their Bases and Cornices. Some think this House was formerly the Praetorium, or Hall of Judgment; but others are of opinion that 'twas the Capitol of Nismes.

This City is full of People of Quality and Breed∣ing; and tho' there is so small a distance between it and Provence, I can assure you, that their Customs are not only different but opposite; and instead of that Scorn and Contempt with which Frenchmen are treated at Marseilles, here they are entertain'd with all imaginable Civility, and with the highest Marks of Love and Friendship. You wou'd hardly give Cre∣dit to some Instances of this Nature which I cou'd relate to you: The Ladies take pleasure to accost a Stranger whom they find walking alone; Their Conversation is accompany'd with all the Sprightli∣ness and innocent Freedom that can be desir'd. For tho' they have as tender a Regard to their Honour as any of their Sex in France; their Vertue is not barbarous and inhumane; and provided a Man have an Inclination to Love, and be Master of a compe∣tent Stock of Merit, join'd with some external Ac∣complishments, he may venture to ingage with those favourable Enemies with almost certain Hopes of Success. I have heard a hundred Relations of such amorous Adventures of Strangers, who taking Fire at first sight, were afterwards bless'd with the Pos∣session

of the Object of their Flames; and preser∣ving their Love after Marriage, had never any Rea∣son to repent of the Suddenness of their Choice. For if I might depend upon the Character I have receiv'd of the Ladies of Languedoc, and 'tis almost impossible for one who has convers'd with 'em to doubt of the Truth of it; a Man cannot trust his Heart in better Hands, nor make a more advantage∣ous Resignation of his Liberty. They are naturally Loving, Complaisant, and Constant even to Death; and besides they are generally of a very pleasant Humour, and all their Actions are accompany'd with a certain Amorous Air that seems always to de∣mand a Heart, and puts it out of the Owner's Pow∣er to refuse it. 'Tis not without an extreme Dis∣pleasure that I must content my self with relating what I heard on this Occasion, and that I cannot add my own Experience to the Testimony of others; but I cannot pretend to the Happiness of those who find Fortune ready to compliment 'em with a Mi∣stress at their first Arrival: and since the main De∣sign of my Travels wou'd not suffer me to stay long in this Place, I saw my self depriv'd of a Pleasure of which I had conceiv'd so agreeable an Idea, and left with an extreme Reluctancy, that lovely Coun∣try, where the Customs and Manner of Living are so suitable to my Genius and Inclinations. But at my Return to this Place I was somewhat comforted by a late Instance of the Misfortunes of Love, and my Grief was in some measure abated, when I re∣flected on all the Troubles and Disasters that usually attend a Passion from which we expect nothing but the Enjoyment of undisturb'd Delight and Satis∣faction.

Two Young Pilgrims betwixt the Age of Twen∣ty and Twenty two Years, pass'd thro' this City about three Months ago, and like the rest of those miserable Wanderers, who rove about the World

under the Protection of a Pilgrim's Staff, were con∣strain'd to take up their Lodging at the Hospital de la Charité, where one of 'em, not longer able to endure the Fatigues, Cold, Hunger, and perpetual Want of every thing that is necessary for Life, sunk at last under such an insupportable Load of Mise∣ry, and fell into a Fever, accompany'd with so great a Weakness, that the Surgeons began to despair of his Recovery. His Companion seeing him in this Condition, was so overwhelm'd with Sorrow, that the very Servants of the Hospital, who were wont to be unconcern'd Spectators of such Acci∣dents, were touch'd with Compassion: He never stirr'd from his sick Friend's Bed-side, gave him his Broth, serv'd him with a wonderful Zeal and Assiduity, and wou'd not suffer any other to come near him. The sick Person, on the other side, was not pleas'd with any thing but what came from the Hands of his belov'd Companion, and receiv'd his Services with all the Marks of Grati∣tude, and of a most tender Affection. In the mean time the Sickness of the one, and the Grief of the other were daily and equally augmented: The dis∣consolate Mourner embrac'd his dying Friend every Moment, and bath'd his Face with Tears. At last, on the Ninth Day, the Feaver was succeed∣ed by a violent Crisis, and the sick Pilgrim, after some Convulsions, fell into a Swoon, and was thought to be dead. His Friend then losing all Patience, gave himself up entirely to the Excess of his Grief, and throwing himself upon the dear Body, with the Transports of a Despair, that melted the Hearts of all the Assistants, burst forth into Lamentations, which discover'd his secret, and made 'em know that the Person whom they hi∣therto treated as a poor Pilgrim, was a young Lady: Alas! my dear N... cry'd he, Thou art no more! Thy fair Eyes are shut for ever! 'Tis done—

Thou hast lost thy dear Life, and 'tis I who have robb'd thee of it. Ah! my Love! my Soul! continu'd he, thou hast paid dear for thy Love to me, who am the wretched occasion of thy Death in thy most blooming Age. Ah! fatal Love! cruel Parents! unfortunate, and too-loving Daughter! These, and such-like Exclama∣tions he utter'd with unconceivable Despair, for the space of a quarter of an Hour; after which, perceiving that she show'd some Signs of Life, he sent immediately for a Physician, and throw∣ing himself at his Feet, Sir, said he, I conjure you by all that is dear to you in the World, refuse not your Assistance to this young Maid: She is a Person of Quali∣ty, and deserves your utmost Care for her Preservation: Leave no Means unattempted; spare no Cost, Sir, I be∣seech you, and be confident that you shall not lose your Labour; you shall have whatever you please to demand; take my promise, and you shall find me to be a Man of Honour. The Physician being mov'd with Compas∣sion, assur'd him that the sick Person shou'd not Perish by his Neglect: And after he had admini∣ster'd such Remedies as were most necessary in her present Condition, he begg'd her Lover to inform him who they were, and by what Acci∣dent they fell into such deplorable Circumstances. The young Man told him, that he was a Native of Lorrain, and born a Gentleman, tho' with a very small Fortune; That he fell in Love with this young Lady, who was of a very Rich and Honourable Family; That She requited his Love with a Reciprocal Affection, notwithstanding the Opposition made by her Father, and all the rest of her Family, who designing to settle her Advan∣tageously in the World, wou'd never be persuaded to accept of so poor a Son-in-Law; That, never∣theless, they kept a Correspendence for two Years, giving and receiving all the Marks of an unex∣pressible Tenderness, and confirming by mutual

and repeated Oaths, their resolution to die, rather than to be guilty of the least Infidelity; That her Father having provided a considerable Match for her, wou'd have forc'd her to comply with his Inclinations; That She rejected the Proposal with great Con∣stancy, and was very rigorously treated by her Father on that Occasion; and, That when she cou'd not resist any longer, they resolv'd to make their Escape, chusing rather to live poorly and miserably together, than to purchase the Enjoy∣ment of a plentiful Fortune at the rate of being for ever separated. In pursuance of that Design, as he inform'd the Physician, he seiz'd on one of her Father's Horses, and after she had disguis'd her self in a Man's Habit, he brought her to Paris, where their Money failing, they were forc'd to sell their Horse; and that little Stock being also ex∣hausted, they were reduc'd to the miserable Con∣dition in which he found 'em: 'Yet, added he, we were firmly resolv'd to spend the Remainder of our Lives like wretched Vagabonds, rather than to submit to the Tyranny of our Relations, if this fatal Sickness had not made me alter my Resolution. I cannot longer bear, continu'd he, the sight of so dismal an Object: My Constancy is overcome by her Sufferings; and if God wou'd vouchsafe to restore her Health, I design to carry her back to her Father; tho' considering the extreme Violence of his Humour, I cannot expect a milder Punishment than Death, for the Injury he pretends I have done him.

The Physician, who is a very Humane Per∣son, was struck with Compassion at the Recital of their Misfortunes, and promis'd to assist 'em not only as a Physician, but as a Friend. Immedi∣ately he order'd the young Lady to be taken out of the nasty Couch where she lay, and to be car∣ry'd to a convenient Chamber; where she was laid in a good Bed, and carefully attended till

her Recovery, which happen'd not long after. In the mean time, he made their Condition known to the Bishop, who, as I told you in my last, is none of those morose Censurers, who exclaim against the least Breach of the Rules of Decency; and indeed, he was sensibly touch'd with the disast'rous Condition of these sorrowful Lovers; and admi∣ring the odd Effects of Love and Fortune, he look'd upon 'em as Objects of Compassion, and assur'd 'em, that it shou'd not be his Fault, if their Suf∣ferings were not crown'd with the Happiness they deserv'd. They were soon sensible of the Sinceri∣ty of his Kindness; for he joyn'd 'em together in Marriage, Cloath'd 'em, and entertain'd 'em; till having written to their Relations, and obtain'd their pardon, he sent them back to their own Country. To keep you from suspecting the Truth of this Relation, 'twill be sufficient to acquaint you, that 'tis not above Fifteen Days since that admirable pair of Lovers departed from this Place. I am so much in Love with the Bishop's Gene∣rosity on this Occasion, and even I think my self so extremely oblig'd to him for it, that I know nothing so difficult, which I wou'd not undertake for his Service: And I'm confident that a Man who is capable of performing an Action of that Nature, must infallibly be Master of all the Car∣dinal Virtues.

And to convince you that he is no less remark∣able for his Prudence, and the solidity of his Judg∣ment, I shall add one Story more before I finish my Letter.

About four or five Months ago, the Convent of the Monks of S. Anthony in this City began to be haunted with one of those Ill-natur'd Spirits, who not contenting themselves with making a frightful Noise, beat and knock down all that come in their Way. The Monks who came out

of their Chambers at Night, were the chief Sufferers by these Disorders; for their troublesome Guest watch'd 'em so narrowly, and was so exact in walk∣ing his Rounds, that 'twas impossible to stir abroad without falling into his Clutches; and he always bestow'd so furious a Correction on those whom he caught straggling, that they durst not venture out of Doors from six a-clock at Night to six in the Morning: And even those who had the Wit to keep out of harms way, cou'd not escape alto∣gether unmolested; for they were terrify'd with the Clinking of Chains, and such other Noises that are usually ascrib'd to returning Spirits. There were several Chapters held on this Occasion, and the Fathers still concluded that their deceas'd Prior's Ghost was come either to impart some Matter of Importance to 'em, or to ask some Questions, and that there was none of 'em worthy to be his Confident, or to be acquainted with the Rea∣son why he gave 'em so many unwelcome Visits. After some time spent in Deliberation, 'twas re∣solv'd to say a great Number of Masses for his Soul, and to keep as close as they cou'd for the future, to avoid coming within the reach of his Fists. In the mean time this wondrous Ghost was the com∣mon Subject of the publick Talk, and of the Ser∣mons of the Monks, who show'd the print of his Hand on the Wall of the Refectory, and offer'd a Reward of 100 Crowns to any Man that wou'd undertake to lodge there, and speak to the Ghost, that they might know what he wanted. This was a very welcome piece of News to one Blan∣chet, a Native of Paris, who had so much Cou∣rage, and so little Money, that he might have been easily persuaded to expose himself to far greater Dangers for a less considerable Summ. Immediate∣ly he went to the Fathers, and offer'd 'em his Service, assuring 'em he would talk to the Spirit,

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and endeavour to procure 'em Satisfaction. The Monks embrac'd the Proposal, and the Bargain was concluded: But the Bishop, hearing of so gross an Abuse, sent for the Superiour, and ha∣ving reproach'd him with Weakness and Super∣stition, forbid him to suffer that Man to lodge in the House, or to show the print of the Hnad to any Person whatsoever; adding, That such a Circumstance was very unsuitable to the Nature of a Spirit, and that he ought rather to watch himself, than to entrust the Management of an Affair of that Nature to another. Blanchet, ac∣cording to his Promise, came in the Evening, arm'd Cap-a-pee; but instead of his expected Re∣ward, he was dismiss'd with a Compliment. Some Days after, my Curiosity prompted me to desire a Sight of the Hand; but the Monks re∣fus'd me that Favour, excusing themselves upon the Bishop's Prohibition. I applauded his Wis∣dom, and took the Liberty to tell 'em, That they shou'd not suffer themselves to be frighted into the belief of an Apparition, till they were con∣vinc'd of the Truth of it by a strict Examination of all the Circumstances; and that they ought not to instill Superstition into the Minds of the Peo∣ple, since they were naturally too much inclin'd to it. The Monk to whom I addrest my Discourse, was so offended at it, that I was almost afraid he wou'd have pull'd out my Eyes: He wonder'd what cou'd move me to offer him such Advice, and ask'd whether I took him, and all his Illu∣strious Brethren, for a Company of Enthusiasts. My Freedom had irritated him so extremely, that he was incapable of Reason, and therefore I left him. But the Bishop's Conduct, and my Opini∣on, were sufficiently justify'd by an Accident that happen'd some Days after. A certain Captain of a Galley coming one Night to Sup with another

Captain, whose House is very near the Convent, left his Chairmen below, who being surpriz'd with a violent Shower, carry'd the Chair into the Court of the Monastery, and plac'd it under a Portico; where one of 'em sitting down in it, fell into so deep a Sleep that he perceiv'd not when the Gate was shut, and wak'd not till Midnight. His unwillingness to disturb the Fathers at such an unseasonable Hour, made him resolve to sit in his Chair till next Morning: And an Hour after, he saw a Person cover'd from Head to Foot with a long Black Gown, who having open'd the Gate of the Court with a Key, began to walk up and down, and cough'd several times very softly. The poor Chairman was at first struck with Terrour, for he was one of those who believ'd the Story of the Apparition; but being a Man of Resolu∣tion, he took Courage, and observ'd the Motions of the Spirit. Not long after one of the Monks appear'd at a Window, and ask'd softly, Are you there? Yes, said the Ghost, Throw down the Rope. You have staid very long, reply'd the Father; and crying 'st, two or three times, let fall a Ladder of Ropes, by the help of which, the Spirit got into the Convent, and three Hours after came down again, and went out. Next Morning the Chair∣man divulg'd the Secret; and 'twas afterwards discover'd that the pretended Ghost was a Whore, whom one of the Monks brought into the Con∣vent every Night, having invented that Disguise to fright those who might see his Mistress: And least any of his Companions shou'd come out of their Cells, and disturb his Pleasures, he drag'd Chains thro' the Dormitory, knock'd at the Doors, and beat those whom he met so unmercifully, that their Fears were much greater than their Curiosity. This Accident has so extremely les∣sen'd the Reputation of those Fathers, who be∣fore

this Discovery were thought to live pret∣ty regularly, that at present they dare not show their Faces: And S. Anthony's Ghost is be∣come a proverbial Expression, or softer Term for a Whore.

I shall conclude this Letter with telling you, That there are so many Occasions of going to Turkey to be met with in this place, that I••m ful∣ly resolv'd to undertake a Voyage thither. I may perhaps find some English or Dutch Vessels there, and without any considerable Charge satisfie my Curiosity with the View of a Coun∣try of which I have heard so many Wonders. I'm just going to embark on the S. Anthony of Ciotat, bound first for Genoa, and then for L••ghorn, and commanded by Captain Marin, who de∣signs to stay so long in the last of these places, that I shall have an Opportunity to see part of Italy, before we set sail for Constantinople, from whence you may expect a farther Account of my Travels.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Marseilles, March 1690.

LETTER IX.

SIR,

AFter I have told you that we set sail from Mar∣seilles on the 25th. of March, you must not expect to hear more News of us till our Land∣ing; for I cannot imagine what pleasure you cou'd take in reading, that on such a Day the South or East Winds were contrary to us, or that we were forc'd to tack about to the North or West. I'm so far from looking upon the Sea as my Element, that I never found the least Inclination to be acquainted with it. Besides, Sir, I must con∣fess I'm naturally apt to judge of others by my self; and therefore when I remember how often I have skip'd over such Passages in the Relations of Travellers, I cannot forbear concluding that you wou'd be as little pleas'd with so dull an En∣tertainment. Since then you will have the Ad∣vantage of passing from one Port to another, without feeling the Inconveniencies of bad Wea∣ther, or being troubl'd with the Noisy Hurry of the Mariners, I hope you will be the more easily persuaded to stop a while with me at the Isles of If, where we spent a whole Day at Anchor, after we came out of the Port of Marseilles.

The Isles of If are three small Islands about three Miles distant from Marseilles, forming a very safe Harbour against any sorts of Wind, which is de∣fended by two strong Castles, where the King keeps a Garrison. These Islands are of great Im∣portance to secure the Trade of Marseilles; for without the Advantage of their Neighbourhood, that City wou'd be a kind of Prison, since

'twou'd be impossible for any Vessels to go out of the Port, without exposing themselves to the Insults of their Enemies: And besides, the Storms that are so frequent in the Mediterranean, wou'd drive many Ships upon the Shoar, if they had not the Conveniency of standing into this Harbour. But notwithstanding the Advantageous Situation of these Islands, and the great Importance of the Harbour for the Security of Trade, they were mortgag'd by one of our Kings to the Duke of Florence, for six hundred thousand Crowns. Whilst the Princes of that Family injoy'd the possession of this Post, the Spaniards left no means unessay'd to make himself Master of it; but they were ei∣ther resolv'd to keep it in their own Power, or afraid to incur the Anger of the French, since 'tis certain that they rejected all the Proposals that were made to 'em upon this Occasion. These Islands were afterwards reunited to the Crown, by the Marriage of Mary de Medicis with Henry the Fourth. And the Success of that Negotiation was in a great measure owing to the Marquiss de Pile, who was then Governour of the Place; for he made Duke Francis sensible, that 'twas better to comply with the Desires of that Monarch, than to engage himself in a War with so potent an Enemy. In consideration of so acceptable a piece of Service, the Marquiss was continu'd in his former Post, and the Reversion of his Office was bestow'd on his Son, who died there, leaving two Sons, the elder of whom, who enjoys his Grand∣father's Title, succeeded in the Government of these Islands; and the younger, call'd the Count de Forville, was made Governour Viguier of Mar∣seilles, and Captain of one of the King's Galleys; the yearly Revenue of these two Places amount∣ing to 20000 Livres.

To make amends for the less favourable part of the Character I gave you of the Natives of Prov••nce, I shall take this Occasion to acquaint you with some of their better Qualities: For I love to do Justice to all Men; and besides, I wou'd willingly make my Peace with the Inha∣bitants, before I leave their Country: They are very good Mariners, and are famous over all Eu∣rope for their Industry and Diligence: Nor are they less remarkable for their Courage and Bra∣very; for they are so little capable of Fear, that they wou'd reckon it a piece of Cowardice to turn their Backs to ten times their Number of Enemies. Not very long ago, our Captain's Un∣cle, call'd Blaise Marin, in a Ship of Forty Guns, maintain'd a Fight for three Days together, during a Calm, against five Tripolin Men of War, with so much Resolution and Success, that they were forc'd at last to leave him. And a small Bark of thir∣ty Men, was about a Year ago snatch'd out of the very Jaws of the Algerines, by the Prudence and Bravery of the Pilot. She was chas'd by one of the largest of the Enemy's Ships, in which there were four hundred Men, till seeing no pos∣sibility of escaping, that Handful of Men resolv'd to board the Ship that pursu'd 'em, without lowering their Sails, or grappling the Vessels to∣gether: And the Pilot leaping on board the Ene∣my's Ship, with his Curtelas in his Hand, cut the Rope that sustain'd their Main-Sail, which they cou'd not hoise again in above three Hours. In the mean time the Pilot jump'd into his own Bark, and Crying, Courage, my Boys, we're sav'd, steer'd away from the Enemy, who could never afterwards come up with him. The Merchants at his Return, presented him with a Gold Medal; nor cou'd they in Justice do less Honour to so rare a Merit. But they will not be so kind to a Cap∣tain,

call'd Curet, who had the Misfortune to be taken by the Galleys of Naples about three Months ago: For tho' he had only 24 Guns mounted, and 100 Men on board, to resist seven Galleys that attack'd him; his Countrymen exclaim a∣gainst him as the basest of Cowards; and I know not whether 'twill ever be safe for him to show his Face at Marseilles. But after all, this seems to be a Rodomontade, rather than an effect of true Courage; since it must be acknowledg'd that se∣ven Galleys are a very unequal Match for the strongest Merchant-Ship in the World.

Three Days after our departure from If, we arriv'd at Genoa, which you know is usually call'd Genoa the Proud, tho' in my Opinion it cannot pre∣tend the least Right to that Title: 'Tis the Ca∣pital City of Liguria, and had its Name from Ja∣nus the first, King of Italy; or according to o∣thers, from double-fac'd Janus. Some make this Janus King of the Toïans; and others deduce the Etymology of the Word from Janua, a Gate, or Door; because Genoa is as it were the Gate of Italy. Authors are generally much divided con∣cerning the true Name of this City: Luitprand, Tircin, and some others, call it Janua; Titus Livi∣us, Ptolomy, and Strabo, give it the Name of Ge∣nua; and the latter Opinion seems to be better grounded than the former, especially since 'tis confirm'd by a small Copper-Plate, which is to be seen in this Place, and was found Ann. 1507. by a Peasant, as he was Tilling the Ground. The Inscription is engrav'd in very small, but pretty distinct, Roman Characters; and in it the Genoese are call'd Genuates.

The time of its Foundation is unknown, at least I never had the Fortune to meet with a satisfactory Account of it in any Author, either Ancient or Modern. 'Tis seated at the bottom

of a little Gulf, on the Declivity, and at the Foot of a Hill, seeming to consist of several Stories. The Port lies very open towards the Sea, and therefore cannot afford safe Anchorage for Ships. The City contains five and thirty Parishes; the Streets are uneven, and very narrow, tho' the Houses are extremely high. In the middle of the Publick Place, there is a Marble Statue of an unusual bigness, representing Andrew Doria, the Deliverer of the Republick, trampling on three Turks Heads, in Memory of the signal Victories he obtain'd over these Infidels. The Palaces of Genoa are ve∣ry much admir'd; and it must be acknowledg'd that some of 'em are very fine Structures; but the principal Beauty of those few that deserve that Title, consists in the Marble of which they are built.

Marble is no Rarity in this Country; all the Churches are adorn'd with it, as well as the Pa∣lace Royal, where his Serenity keeps his Residence: But after all, you must not imagine that the Streets are pav'd with it. Since we staid but two Days in the City, I cou'd not find an Op∣portunity to see the Inside of any of the Pala∣ces, and therefore I cannot satisfie your Curiosi∣ty with a Description of 'em. You are so well acquainted with the nature of the Government, that 'twou'd be needless to give you any farther Account of it; only I cannot forbear taking no∣tice of the extreme Decrease of the Power and Grandeur of this Republick since those glorious Days, when they extended their Conquests to the Tanais, and made themselves Masters of all the Coasts of Asia, and the Islands of Cyprus, Scio, Lesbos, &c. They still retain a little Island, with the Title of a Kingdom, and are extremely proud of it, tho', in my Opinion, without any reason. The Habits of the Nobles resemble those

of the Counsellors in France; they dare not wear Gold or Silver when they come abroad; but in their Houses they have very rich Vests, and cost∣ly Night-Gowns.

Since the late Bombardment of the City, they cannot endure those of our Nation. They show'd me a Convent of Nuns, into which there fell not one Bomb, tho' there were above a hun∣dred shot at it; and told me, that there was a Hand seen in the Air, which diverted their Course, and threw 'em another way. The Jews, who are detested by all the World, were in great Favour here during those terrible Disorders, be∣cause they found out a way to quench the Bombs with Ox Hides: Yet this is not a new Inventi∣on; for the same was practised long before by the Inhabitants of Groningen, when they were be∣sieg'd by the Bishop of Munster in 1672: And since that time the Algerines made use of the same Secret; besides the covering of their Streets with Sand. Nor is there any thing wonderful in the Success of this Stratagem; for one may easily and infallibly smother a Bomb if he can come in time to stop the Hole before the Fusee be spent. At the Assault of the Horn-Work at Philipsburg, I saw a Soldier take the same way to prevent the Effect of the Granadoes, which the Germans threw among us: For he gather'd 'em as they fell, and stopping the Touch-Hole with his Hand, either smother'd 'em immediately, or threw 'em back upon the Enemies. But tho' this may be easily done, it cannot be attempted without Dan∣ger; for the Fusee is always made as short as possible; and if the Fire shou'd happen to reach the Powder when the Man throws himself upon the Bomb, the shutting out of the Air wou'd on∣ly 〈◊〉〈◊〉 it burst the sooner.

But tho' the shortness of our stay at Genoa wou'd not permit me to gratifie your Curiosity with an Account of the Beauties and Rarities of that City; I confess I cannot pretend the same Excuse for declining to undertake the Description of Rome, Florence, and the place where I am at present. I have spent two whole Months in exa∣mining and admiring that infinite Number of Wonders that seem to have been brought from all the parts of the World, and shut up in this Country, as in a vast Repository. I have even wallow'd in Delight, and been kept in a conti∣nual Rapture with the amazing View of so many noble Structures, august Monuments of Antiquity, inestimable Libraries, Statues, Pictures, Works of Marble and Porphyrie, and a Thousand other Cu∣riosities, of which there is a prodigious and even incredible Abundance in these places. I have seen all these magnificent Rarities; I have view'd 'em with all imaginable Pleasure and Attention, and my Mind is still full of their agreeable Idea's; but tho' I have not forgot what I promis'd you, nei∣ther the Consideration of your Satisfaction, nor of my own Engagement, can make me willing to keep my Promise with respect to Italy. You must e'en give me leave to claim the Privilege of a Norman once in my Life; and you will easi∣ly dispense with the Account you expected from me, if you peruse the Relations of so many Tra∣vellers, who have visited this lovely Country from one end to the other, especially the late Work of Monsieur Misson: For what can be added to so exact a Description? Is there any Corner in Italy, that has escap'd his inquisitive Curiosity, or any thing remarkable in it which he has not illu∣strated with Learned and Judicious Reflexions? He is a compleat Traveller; he has forgot nothing that deserves to be taken notice of, and has so

intirely exhausted his Subject, that there is no∣thing left for future Observers. And therefore, instead of describing Italy, I shall only desire you to consult his Book, by the Assistance of which, you may make one of the pleasantest Voyages in the World without going out of your Closet. But since you will perhaps expect that I shou'd at least add something to convince you that I have seen these celebrated Places, I shall adven∣ture to tell you, that among so many admirable Rarities that fill'd me with Wonder and Amaze∣ment, there is nothing, in my Opinion, more ex∣traordinary and surprising than the Pomp and Mag∣nificence of the Court of Rome. I know not whe∣ther this Remark will make amends for my Si∣lence in other Respects: You'll perhaps tell me, that 'tis a stale and trivial Observation: However, you must give me leave to assure you, that 'tis not an easie Task to represent all its Wonders; and I must confess, that hitherto I had never any Idea of it, that did not come short of the Truth. The Court of Rome is no less Numerous and Magni∣ficent than that of France; and perhaps I might venture to say, that the latter is exceeded by the former. Every Cardinal is a Prince, who receives daily all the Marks of Honour and Respect from a Thousand Prelates, and other Ecclesiasticks, that look upon him as their Sovereign, and place their whole Felicity in his Favour. Nothing is want∣ing to compleat the Splendor of their Dignity: Magnificent Palaces, rich Furnitures, delicious Tables, Pleasure-Houses, Gardens, Grotto's, Foun∣tains, numerous Trains of Servants, and, to crown all, the Conversation and Society of the handsomest Ladies in Europe; for you must not imagine that their Character confines 'em to all the Austerities of a Mo∣nastick Life; and, excepting only some Gray-Bearded Dotards, that pretend to the Popedom, the

rest are as Gay and Amorous as any young French Prince. 'Twou'd be needless to apply this Cha∣racter particularly to all the Members of the Sa∣cred College; and therefore I shall content my self with assuring you, that none deserves it more just∣ly than the Cardinal Patron, who has acquir'd so Universal a Reputation of an accomplish'd Gal∣lant, that 'tis generally reckon'd the most effectual way to obtain a Favour of him, to make use of the Intercession of a Lady; and even he scruples not to declare, that he has not the Force to re∣fuse any thing to a fair Petitioner.

Those who love Pleasure and Luxury, cannot de∣sire a more favourable Treatment than they meet with under the present Pontificate. The Holy Fa∣ther encourages 'em by his own Example; his Table and Furniture are Magnificent, and his Nephews resemble so many Sovereigns. The Prince Mark is attended with a Train of forty Lacqueys, all clad in a Livery of Cloth of Gold, and his Stable is furnish'd with sixty of the finest Horses in Rome; tho' all this is a manifest Violation of the Edicts that were publish'd to regulate the Affairs of the Nepotism. 'Tis true, the People grumble extremely to see their Substance exhausted, and the very Blood drain'd out of their Bodies, to maintain the extravagant Vanity of those Upstart Favourites, who about a Year ago were as poor as them∣selves. But among so many Marks of Splendour, there is nothing more surprizing, than the Mag∣nificent Gondola's, built by the Pope's Orders, which are the first that ever grac'd the Tiber. His Holiness goes thither very often to take the Air, accompany'd with those that have the great∣est Share in his Favour; and 'tis thought he de∣signs to bring the Venetian Fresco into Fashion at Rome, which in my Opinion is a Project that may be easily accomplish'd, since the Roman Ladies

love to be seen, as well as the rest of the Fair Sex.

In the mean time the Luxury and Vanity of the present Pope, gives occasion to several well-dispos'd Persons, to make Comparisons between his Conduct, and that of his Predecessour, which you may reasonably conclude are not in the least Advantageous to his Holiness: For there is cer∣tainly a very remarkable Difference between these two Pontiffs: He who at present fills the Chair, makes it his only business to gratifie his Incli∣nation to Pleasure, and to Aggrandize his Fami∣ly; whereas the good Pope Innocent apply'd him∣self only to the performance of the Duties of his Office, reforming the Abuses that had crept into Rome, visiting the Hospitals, and assisting the Poor. And besides, he left no Means unessay'd, to re∣store Peace to Christendom: And when an unjust Power endeavour'd to extend its Usurpations to the Church it self, we had the Pleasure to see that generous Prelate oppose the incroaching Ty∣ranny, with a Resolution and Piety worthy of a Common Father. His Private Life, and Dome∣stick Occupations, were no less Edifying: He was easie of Access to all Men, and hearken'd favourably to the Poor when they came to re∣present their Grievances to him, or to beg his Assistance. His external Deportment was very simple, and so free from the least Appearance of Worldly Pomp, that he might be call'd the Model of Humility. I'm assur'd by several Persons of un∣question'd Credit, that the Expence of his Table was fix'd at* 1.3 Two Julio's a Day, and that the whole Charge of his Provisions did not exceed Fifty Crowns a Year. I cannot without Astonishment reflect on the admirable Sobriety of a Person who might be justly rank'd among the most Potent Princes

in the World; and am not at all surpriz'd that most Persons here esteem him a Saint. 'Tis said that Miracles are wrought at his Tomb; and if that Report continue a while longer, he will cer∣tainly be the only Object of the People's Devo∣tion. I know not whether the Zeal of his Ado∣rers may not one Day procure the deceas'd Pope a place among the Canoniz'd Saints: But consi∣dering the Reputation of his Successour, I may ven∣ture to assure you, that he will never be enroll'd among that Number.

Under this Pontificat the Curtezans have resum'd their expiring Courage, and begin to appear with the same Haughtiness and Insolency that seem'd to be in some Measure curb'd under the Govern∣ment of Innocent XI. That Jovial Society, which may be reckon'd a Fourth Order in the State, and no less considerable than any of the rest, will, in all probability, maintain its Privileges and Li∣berties as long as the Supreme Power is lodg'd in the Clergy, who will never deprive themselves of so necessary a Diversion. And truly, I know not how so many young Persons that are engag'd in a Vow which they are not able to perform, cou'd subsist, without the comfortable Assistance of those Communicative Ladies. Honest Matrons are daily affronted by those domineering Strumpets, whose Insolence they must suffer patiently, since 'twou'd be in vain to contend with the Mistresses of their Masters. I'm not in the least surpriz'd at their Haughtiness and Pride; but I confess I cou'd never have believ'd, without the Testimo∣ny of my own Eyes, that they had so much Liberty, and so little Shame. We had no sooner drop••d Anchor before Leghorn, but we were im∣mediately boarded by a Dozen of these Female Pyrates, who, in spite of the Captain, carry'd off an equal Number of Prizes; for Mariners look

upon this Port as a priviledg'd Place, where they may ramble without controul. 'Tis true, they find Pleasure is not a cheap Commodity in this place; for these Ladies are not so Hospitable as to entertain Travellers Gratis, and they usually set a very high price on their Favours, especially at Rome, which may be call'd the Centre of Whores. I will not pretend to warrant the Truth of their Opinion, who say, That at Rome Whores may sue a Man for their Hire: But I can assure you, that they may and do demand the Assistance of the Corte, or Watch, who have Orders to protect 'em, and see 'em paid, according to the Quality of the Person. The Corte is a Band of Sbirri's, who walk the Rounds every Night, to prevent Disorders; but their Authority is so small, and the care they take to suppress Abuses so ineffectual, that I know not whether the City receives any Benefit by 'em: For since they are not permitted to Fire at any Person, 'tis easie for any Man that has the Ad∣vantage of a Nimble Pair of Heels, to avoid fal∣ling into their Clutches; and there are some roar∣ing Hectors, who not only make Head against 'em, but even keep 'em in Awe. I might reckon up a Thousand Instances of such insolent Vil∣lanies; but I shall content my self with mention∣ing one that happen'd very lately: The City was never plagu'd with a more desperate Villain than a certain Neapolitan Lord, call'd, The Prince de la Matrice, who was Ring-leader of Fifty Bandits that were fit Companions for such a Master: He and his Gang made all the Sbirri's in Rome quake, and continu'd their Insolences above a Year, till at last the Pope having issu'd out an Order to take him alive or dead, he took Sanctuary in a Church, where he Capitulated with his Holiness, and was permitted to depart with Bag and Bag∣gage, he and all his Companions. 'Tis certainly

a very great Abuse, that Churches shou'd serve as places of Retreat for Villains; and so long as these Privileges remain, the abolishing of the Fran∣chises will never put a Stop to the reigning Dis∣orders. But, which is still more intolerable, the Churches are not only so many Sanctuaries to se∣cure Malefactors from Punishment, but the Theatres where they act their Villanies. The other Day, when the People were met to hear Vesper's at the Church of S. Lewis, and were busie at their De∣votion, Fifteen or Twenty Persons cry'd out on a sudden, Fly, fly, the Church is falling; and imme∣diately run towards the Door, with so many signs of Fear, that the People were almost per∣suaded that the Church was tumbling about their Ears. And since on such Occasions 'tis natu∣ral for a Man to think of saving himself, before he consider the greatness or probability of the Danger, the People in the Church follow'd those whom they saw running out, with so much haste and confusion, that several Persons were trodden under Foot, and so hurt that they were forc'd to keep their Beds. In the mean time the Rogues were not idle Spectatours of the Fright they had occasion'd; and some began to miss their Purses, and others their Silver-hilted Swords, assoon as the Tumult was appeas'd, and the Cheat dis∣cover'd.

During my abode at Rome, I had the fortune to meet with the same Priest, who, as I told you in one of my preceeding Letters, was imprison'd at Mascon on suspicion of Witchcraft: He makes his Court to Cardinal Chigi, whom he solicites ve∣ry earnestly, and expects to obtain a Benefice from him; but he is certainly an incorrigible Fool, as you may perceive by the Account he gave me of himself. He assur'd me, that he entertain'd a most intimate Fellowship and Correspondence with

certain imaginary Inhabitants of the Air, by whose Assistance he pretends that one may easily surmount all Difficulties, and wou'd have persua∣ded me, that these Spirits open'd the Doors of the Prison when he was in danger of being con∣demn'd as a Sorcerer. I was so surpriz'd at the Novelty and Oddness of his Opinion, that I re∣solv'd to discourse seriously with him about it, and ask'd him how he came acquainted with that Airy People, and why they wou'd not dis∣cover themselves to the rest of Mankind. He re∣ply'd, that they communicated their Favours only to those who are willing to hearken to 'em, and to enter into a Society with 'em; adding, that they have many Correspondents in the World who live unknown, and conceal themselves with all possible Care, to avoid the Fate of so many Honest Persons, that have been burnt alive for Witchcraft in several places of the Kingdom. He deny'd positively that there were any Witches, saying, That God was too Just and Good to give so much Power to the Devil, who, according to his Opinion, lies bound in Hell, from whence he shall never be releas'd. But I soon perceiv'd that there was as much Confusion in his Brain as in his Discourse, and that he was a meer Fantastical Enthusiast.

I know not what Credit ye will give to this Man's Relation concerning his imaginary Acquain∣tances in the Air; but you may firmly believe the Story with which I am going to conclude my Letter, since I was an Eye-witness of all that pass'd. A certain Florentine Soldier in this City, without pretending to be invulnerable, undertook for a Wager of a Crown to stand as a Mark till four Bullets were successively shot at him, and perform'd his Undertaking without receiving the least hurt, tho' the Man who discharg'd the

Gun stood but fifty Paces from him, and cou'd neither be suspected of Collusion, nor want of Skill, since all the four Bullets pierc'd the Door against which the Florentin stood. You will doubt∣less look upon this as a very odd and surprizing Accident: I was so amaz'd at it, that I know not whether I cou'd have believ'd it if I had not seen it: Yet I can assure you, that the Florentin is no Magician, and that his Secret only consists in shifting his place assoon as he perceives the flashing of the Powder: And the Account he gave me of the easiness of his Undertaking, has considerably lessen'd my Surprizal at the Success of it: However, I wou'd not for 10000 Pistols try the Experiment any otherwise than by shoot∣ing a Bullet into the Sea. The Soldier found out this way to give me some Satisfaction; and I observ'd that the Bullet remain'd so long in the Air, that a Man might easily have avoided it.

Our Captain having taken in all his Lading, expects only a fair Wind; and by good fortune, the third part of the Cargo belongs to Malta; so that I shall have the pleasure of spending at the least Fifteen Days in that celebrated Island.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Leghorn, May 1690.

LETTER X.

SIR,

THo' I promis'd in my last to excuse you from sharing with us in the Inconveniencies of the Sea, and to bring you from France to Turkey, without meeting with one Storm; I can∣not forbear giving you account of one that over∣took us in the height of Sardinia. And I have even the confidence to think that you will not complain of my breach of Promise, since we had all the Trouble, and you will only have the Plea∣sure; if there be any truth in the common Ob∣servation, That Men usually take delight in hear∣ing a Relation of distant Misfortunes.

The pleasure of our Voyage was not disturb'd for the first two Days, tho' we made no great Progress; but on the Third, about seven in the Morning, there arose on the sudden a most fu∣rious North-East Wind, which burst our Sails as if they had been made of Paper; and between the Wind on one side, and the South-West Surges on the other, our Ship was so violently toss'd, that our Mariners durst not stir from the Sides of the Ship, for fear of being wash'd off by the Waves. Never was there any Object more capable of striking Terrour into the Spectatour; never any Noise more frightful and amazing than that which was occasion'd by the tumbling of the Casks and Boxes, the Wind, Thunder, and Sea, the cracking of the Ship, and the howling of some Women that were on board. A horrid Gloom turn'd the Day into Night, and was suc∣ceeded by a Flash of Lightning that cover'd our

Ship for above a Minute, and was accompany'd with a terrible and stupefying Crack. I know not what we did in the mean time, nor was there one among my Fellow-Passengers that cou'd inform me what was done in that dreadful Mi∣nute: For we were all so stunn'd, that there were hardly any Signs of Life left in us. All the Account I can give you is, that when we recover'd our senses, we perceiv'd that the Light∣ning had left a thick and black Smoak, accompa∣ny'd with a sulphureous and noisom Stench, that wou'd have kill••d us if it had lasted a quarter of an Hour; but it was dissipated in a Moment. We found also that we were remov'd from the places where we were when the Lightning fell; which Change, doubtless, proceeded from the vio∣lent Motion and Agitation of the Ship. Among the rest, one of the Ship-Boys who lay sculking in the Fore-Castle, was thrown upon the Hatches in the other end of the Ship, and so bruis'd, and black with Contusions, (tho' I may say more properly, that there was only one Contusion, which cover'd his whole Body) that we have still reason to doubt of his Recovery. The Ma∣riners concluded that the Devil was the Author of all these Disorders, and that there was some Person in the Company under a Sentence of Ex∣communication: For (you know) extraordinary Ac∣cidents are usually esteem'd Miracles by the super∣stitious Vulgar. 'Tis true, the throwing of the Boy so far may at the first View seem to be above the Power of Nature; but an attentive Con∣siderer will not be much surpriz'd at this Effect of the Tempest, since this is not the first time that a Hurricane has snatch'd up Men, and even whole Ships. This puts me in mind of a Story almost of the same Nature, which I heard at Guernsey, a little Island, subject to the Crown of England.

It happen'd one Day, that during a violent Storm, a Flash of Lightning set fire to the Powder in the Castle, and blew it up, with the whole Garrison. Only Ten or Twelve Persons escap'd, among whom the Governour had the good fortune to be pre∣serv'd in a very singular manner: They assur'd me that he was carry'd thro' the Air in his Bed, and laid down upon the Castle Wall, the Foot of which is bath'd by the Sea; and that not know∣ing how to get down, because the Wall was e∣qually steep on both sides, he remain'd there till the Weather began to grow calm, and then made signs to the People of the Town, who came to his Assistance.

This furious Tempest was succeeded by pretty fair Weather, which we enjoy'd during the rest of our Voyage to Malta, where we arriv'd six Days after, and in nine Days from Leghorn; so that we made above a hundred Miles a Day, for the distance betwixt these two Places amounts to about a Thousand Miles. We had no reason to complain of the slowness of our Passage, tho 'we might have perform'd the Voyage much sooner if the Wind had been constantly favourable: For the Captain assur'd me, that the Great Master of Malta, having sent an express to Aix in Provence, the Ship on which the Messenger embark'd, met with so strong an Easterly Wind, that she was carry'd nine hun∣dred Miles in three Days, and arriv'd at the Port of Marseilles, where finding another Ship ready to set sail for Malta, he took Post for Aix, and ha∣ving dispatch'd his Business, return'd the same Night to Marseilles, where he embark'd in that Ves∣sel, which immediately set sail with a most fa∣vourable Westerly Gale, and in three Days arriv'd at Malta: So that in Seven Days he perform'd a Voyage of eighteen hundred Miles, travell'd ten Leagues by Land, and dispatch'd his Affairs. I

must confess few Travellers are so fortunate; but that which happens rarely may happen some∣times.

This Island was of old call'd Melita; and its pre∣sent Name is an Abbreviation or Corruption of the former: It lies in the thirty fourth Degree of North Latitude, being seventy Miles in compass, twenty five long, and ten broad. Under the Reign of Augustus, and long before, 'twas govern'd by its own Kings, from whom it was taken by the Saracens, who afterwards lost it to the Christians. In the Year 1530, Charles V. erected it into a So∣vereignty, which he bestow'd on the Knights of S. John, who eight Years before were driven out of Rhodes by the Turks, and had till then ••rov'd as Pyrates upon the Sea. The Conditions of the Donation were, That the Nomination of the Bi∣shop shou'd belong to him; That the Knights shou'd present him Yearly with a Falcon, as a Mark of Homage; and that they shou'd not re∣ceive into their Ports any Ships or Vessels at En∣mity with the Crown of Spain, which they pun∣ctually observe to this Day. But the Spaniard has no reason to boast of this Custom as a pe∣culiar Mark of Honour or Acknowledgment, since his Ships meet with the same Treatment with those of other Princes, and are never admitted into the Harbours of this Island. I'm so loth to send you an imperfect Account of this Place, that I can∣not forbear taking notice of the famous Siege which it suffer'd Ann. 1565. tho' I cannot reasonably sup∣pose you to be ignorant of a Transaction that made so great a Noise in the World. Sultan Solyman, re∣solving to extirpate the whole Order, sent a for∣midable Army against 'em, under the command of Sinan Bassa, who possess'd himself of the Island, burnt the Villages, made the Inhabitants Slaves, and destroy'd the whole Country with Fire and

Sword. But the Castle of S. Angelo put a Stop to his Fury, and resisted all his Attacks, till upon the News of the approach of the powerful Aids sent by the Christian Princes, he was forc'd to make a disorderly Retreat, leaving two great pieces of Can∣non, one of which lies at the bottom of the Wa∣ter in the Port; and the other under the Baraque of Italy, commonly call d, The great Basilisk, and carrying 120 pound Ball. The next Year the Great Master, de la Valette, laid the Foundation of the New City, and call'd it by his own Name. I may venture to say, without an Hyperbole, that this is the strongest City in the World: I never saw so many, nor better contriv'd Works; and besides, the Strength of the Place is very conside∣rably augmented by the Advantages of its Situa∣tion; for all the Half-Moons and Bastions are cut out of the Rock, as well as the Counterscarp that de∣fends 'em; and the Ditches, which in some places are sixty Foot deep, and proportionably broad.

The Castle of S. Angelo is in the Old City, which is separated from the other by a double Port, consisting of two Harbours, divided by a Neck of Land, which have but one Mouth. At the end of this Isthmus stands the Castle of S. Elm, defending the Entry of both Ports, in one of which the Ships that arrive are oblig'd to perform their Quarantain, having the conveniency of a lit∣tle Island, which serves as a Lazaretto for the Passen∣gers and their Goods. On the other side is the great Harbour, frequented by those who are permitted to converse with the Inhabitants. Both these Har∣bours are safe and convenient; but the Entry is extremely dangerous, by reason of the Rocks that lie hid under the Water.

The New City, call'd Valette, is seated partly on the Top, and partly on the Declivity of a rising Ground, descending to the Shoar. The

Streets are streight, running in parallel Lines both thro' the Length and Breadth of the City, and are so contriv••d, that the Ascent is only discerna∣ble in four or five, the rest being exactly level. The Houses are generally fair, built after the Itali∣an Fashion, with Platforms on the Top; so that the Sketch of the New City resembles perfectly a Rectilinear Amphitheatre. The Old City is not so beautiful, and is at present only inhabited by the Common People; yet 'tis the Seat of the Bishop and his Chapter, which may vie with any So∣ciety of that Nature in Italy, being compos'd of four and twenty Canons, who wear the Episco∣pal Habit, and have each a Thousand Crowns a Year.

There is but one publick Place or Square in the City Valette, which is considerable for its Beauty, adorn'd with a Fountain in the middle, the Water of which falling into a Basket of Stone so artificially cut, that it seems to be transparent, makes one of the pleasantest Cascades in the World. The Front of the Great Master's Palace makes one intire side of the Square. There is nothing admirable either in the Inside or Outside of this Structure; 'tis of a Square Figure, and separated from the Neigh∣bouring Buildings by four Streets. 'Tis divided into the Winter and Summer Apartments: The first, which is the most ancient and least beautiful, is painted throughout with the Representations of Victories ob∣tain'd over the Turks, and particularly the raising of the Siege of Malta, accompany'd with Explanatory Inscriptions. The Summer Apartment was built by the late Great Master, Vignacourt, who beauti∣fy••d Malta with so many Ornaments, and wou'd have certainly made this a very Magnificent Pa∣lace, if Death had not interrupted his Designs. That which is chiefly remarkable in it is the Hall of Arms, where there are 30000 Muskets, as many

Bandaliers, 10000 Cuirasses and Helmets, with a proportionable Number of Swords, Pikes, Pistols, and Scimitars, all rank'd in the finest Order ima∣ginable. There is an incredible number of cast Pieces of Cannon in this City; for tho' I never reckon'd 'em my self, I'm assur'd by Persons of unquesti∣on'd Credit, that there are 1060, and all of a con∣siderable bigness.

The Churches of Malta are incomparably beau∣tiful, the Italian Neatness reigns throughout, and they are every where adorn'd with Painting and Gilding. The principal Church is dedicated to S. John Baptist, the Patron of the Order: The Pro∣spect of it is not very pleasant; but to make a∣mends for the Defects of the Outside, I never saw any thing that cou'd with Justice be compar'd to the Richness and Beauty of the Inside. 'Tis as light as an open Field, and all its Ornaments ap∣pear with so unclouded a Lustre, and so charm the Eye of the Spectatour, that I believe never any Man came out of it without Reluctancy. 'Tis pav'd throughout with large pieces of black and white Marble: The Walls and Columns are lin'd to the very Cornices, with curious Wain∣scotting, which hardly obstructs the Sight; and the Life of S. John is painted in Fresco, on the Vault, by the Hand of the Chevalier Mathias. But the fi∣nest Work of that Nature in the Church is the beheading of the Holy Baptist, represented in a Cha∣pel of the same Name, by the Hand of Michael Angelo; this Picture was presented to the Order by one of the Dukes of Florence, and may be rec∣kon'd a very considerable Complement, since the Princes of that Family are seldom wont to part with such rare and beautiful Pieces.

The many and magnificent Epitaphs of the Great Masters, and Grand Crosses, with their Scutche∣ons, are none of the least remarkable Ornaments

of this Church; and among the rest, the Great Master Vignacourt's Epitaph is extremely beauti∣ful.

Every one of the Seven Languages has a peculiar Chapel in this Church, which they strive to adorn in Emulation of one another. There is not a Church in the World where Vessels of Gold and Silver are more common than in this. Among o∣ther curious Works, there are two Angels of the last of these Metals, as big as the Life: But the most finish'd Piece is a golden Sun of Filagram-Work, to receive the Holy Sacrament, of which the Workmanship alone cost 2000 Crowns. The Trea∣sury is so full of Relicks, that 'twou'd be an end∣less Labour to describe ••em; and therefore I shall only tell you, that the finest Piece I saw in it is the Bishop's Mitre, set all over with the richest Jewels.

The Great Altar in the Nave is esteem'd one of the most magnificent Works of that Nature in Europe: It stands by it self, after the Modern Fa∣shion, like that of Strasburg, which it exceeds both in Largeness and Richness. I saw the Grand Prior of the Order say Mass here in Ceremony, and after the same manner as the Pope does at Rome. His Habit is not different from that of a Bishop; but he is serv'd by eight Deacons and Sub-Dea∣cons, with a great deal of State and Ceremony. The place where he sits while the Epistles and Gospels are read, is on the Right-hand as you go to the Altar, and directly opposite to the Great Ma∣ster, who sits in an arm'd Chair on the Left∣hand, unde a Canopy, two Pages standing be∣hind to serve him. The Grand Crosses are seated in the middle of the Nave, on a double Row of Benches, with Rails or Backs, which enclose the place. The Bailiffs and Commanders are plac'd on the Seats behind; and the rest of the Knights sit

either in the Chapels belonging to their Language, or in any other part of the Church. To return to their manner of Officiating; I observ'd two Ceremonies I had never seen before, since they are Marks of Respect that are only show'd to the Pope: For there are two Clerks who fan the Grand Prior's Head and Face all the while he says Mass, with two large Fans of Ostridge Feathers; and after he has done, he sits down in his Chair, and the same Clerks coming in their Surplices, undress him from Head to Foot, pulling off even his Slippers. The Prior is one of the most consi∣derable Officers of the Order, and is rank'd be∣fore the Grand Crosses, and immediately after the Bishop and Great Master, who only preceed him, tho' he is not chosen out of the Classis of Noble Knights. The present Possessour of this Dignity is a Native of Aix in Provence, and is a Person of Merit, tho' of mean Birth.

Since I have insensibly enter'd upon this Sub∣ject, I shall take this occasion to acquaint you with the various Degrees and Dignities of these Knights; but you must only expect a general Idea of the Order, and I believe you desire no more.

The usual Title of these Knights is of no older date than their Settlement in this Island; for ac∣cording to their Institution they ought to be call'd Knights of S. John of Jerusalem. The Design of the Foundation was for Hospitality, and for the Relief and Assistance of the poor Pilgrims who came from all the parts of the World to visit the Holy Places. At first the Order was compos'd of Persons of mean Rank or Quality, living under a Superiour, call'd Gerard, a Frenchman by birth, who had built a Hospital in the same Place where they pretend Zacharias us'd to perform his Devotions, and dedicated it to S. John Baptist. This Gerard,

who may be reckon'd the Founder of the Order, was a Man of a very Holy Life, and spent his time in doing all the Offices of Hospitality, ac∣cording to his Profession. 'Tis said, that he car∣ry'd Bread every Night to the Christian Army, when Jerusalem was besieg'd by Godfrey of Bouillon; and that being suspected, he was narrowly ob∣serv'd, and at last surpriz'd in the very act. Im∣mediately he was seiz'd, and carry'd before the Governour, with a Burthen of Loaves, which were miraculously chang'd into Stones when his Accusers began to take 'em out of the Bag; so that he was fully acquitted.

Sometime after, Godfrey having taken the Town, was not unmindful of his Benefactour; he caress••d him, and wrote in his Favour to Pope Paschal II. who confirm'd him and his Religious Company in the Exercise of their Pious Occupations, by a Bu•• I granted for that purpose, and dated Octob. 19. 1113, ordaining that after Gerard's Death, the Rectors shou'd be elected by the Members of the Society. By Virtue of this Bull, they made choice of one Roger for their second Rector, whom they afterwards honour'd with the Title of Master: 'I was he who contriv'd and establish d the Sta∣tutes of the Order, and made his Society take up Arms against the Infidels: He order d em to wear black Mantles of Camels Skin, in imitation of S. John••s Habit in the Wilderness; to which he ad∣ded a white Cross with eight Points, to denote the Eight Beatitudes. This Habit is clos d at the Neck, and has two Sleeves ending in a Point, which are thrown backwards, that the Knights may more conveniently serve and assist sick Persons. 'Tis not much different from that with which Escula∣p••us is cloath'd, in Ancient Paintings. This In∣stitution was confirm d by the Popes, Gelasius, Ca∣lixtus II. and Honorius II. and afterwards, Ann. 1130.

by Innocent II. who gave 'em for Arms, Gules, a Cross Argent. Under Pope Honorius the Pl••beian Knights were not only separated from the Nobles, but almost excluded out of the Order, since they were only suffer'd to remain in it in the Quality of Chaplains or Servants. This is as properly a Religious Order as that of the Carmelites, or Au∣gustine Friars; and when the Great Master writes to any of the Knights, he directs his Letters thus; For our Dear and Well-beloved, the Religious Brother N... Knight of the Order of S. John. And they are qualify d with the same Title in all Publick Writings at Malta.

On the Day of their Profession, they must bran∣dish a Sword thrice, as it were to defie the Ene∣mies of the Name of Christ: Afterwards they take the Vows of Poverty, Chastity, and Obedience. In performance of the First, they live in the Inns of their respective Languages, enjoying all things in Common, and the Order inherits their Estates: The Second hinders 'em from Marrying; and the Third obliges 'em to come to Malta as often as their Appearance is requir'd by the Great Master, and to obey all his Orders by Virtue of their Ho∣ly Obedience. Thus they content themselves with a seeming Performance of these Vows, but their Practice is not in the least answerable to their Profession: For, in the first place, their Poverty wou'd satisfie my largest Desires, since most of 'em receive considerable Pensions from their Relations, besides Eighty Crowns a Year from their respective Inns, which may be reckon'd a very comfortable Maintenance. Nor are they more religious Ob∣servers of their Second Vow; they are just as Chast as my self, and I know not what they can pretend to enjoy in Common but Women, whom they have so well accustom'd to that way of li∣ving, that a Faithful Wife is a very scarce Com∣modity

in Malta. And as for the last Vow, if Obedience consist in Grimaces, they are certainly the most Obedient Gentlemen in the World; but if, for Example, the Great Master shou'd take a Fancy to recall the Chevalier de Noailles, I question very much whether he wou'd obey the Summons. To conclude, I cannot give you a juster Character of 'em, than in their own Words; They are on∣ly Poor when a Curtesan demands her Fees; Obe∣dient at Table, where they are always invited to Eat and Drink heartily; and Chast at Church, which is their greatest Penance.

The Order is compos'd of four different Classes; or rather there is only one, which tolerates the rest out of Charity. The first is that of the No∣ble Knights, who before their Admission must prove their Nobility in the presence of certain Commissioners, who are sent to examine their Pe∣digree upon the Place. They wear a Cross of Gold enamell'd, hanging at one of their Button-Holes, as you have doubtless observ'd in France. The Second is the Class of Priests, who for the most part are not noble, yet wear a Cross, as the first. The Third is that of the Serving Knights, who are not Noble, and only wear a Cross of white Sattin sow'd upon their Iustaucor, and of a different Figure from that of the Nobles. The Fourth and last is compos'd of the Great Master's Menial Servants, or of some indigent Persons, to whom he grants that Favour, which brings 'em no other Advantage than the usual Salary of fourscore Crowns; and their Cross is like that of the Serving Knights. Of all the Four Classes, the first only can aspire to the Dignities of the Order, that is, to the Title and Office of Comman∣ders, Grand Crosses, and Great Master. The two first are given in Order, according to their Seniority; for the oldest Knights are in Course promoted to

be Commanders, and the oldest Commanders to be Grand Crosses. But the Office of Great Master is on∣ly obtain d by Election, without the least regard to Seniority; so that frequently a simple Comman∣der is preferr'd before all the Grand Crosses.

The Grand Crosses are so call'd from a large Cross of white Sattin, that covers their whole Breast, from their first Button-Hole to the Belly. 'Tis sew'd upon a kind of Sleeveless Vest, meet∣ing on the side, which in Winter is made of black Cloth, and in Summer of Silk. All the rest of the Knights wear a red Vest of the same Fashion when they go to War, but the Cross is white, and of the same Figure with that which they wear at their Button-Holes; but the Cross of the Serving Knights is of a Circular Figure.

All the Employments and Offices of Honour and Profit are at the Disposal of the Great Master, who is oblig'd to chuse one of the Nobles: But there are few even of that Classis who dare aspire to the Dignity of Captain of the Galleys, by reason of the vast Charge that attends it, since the Or∣der only allows him a Set of Plate, which he must re∣store when he quits that Employment. But to make amends for that Inconveniency, the Captains of the Galleys are soon after promoted to a Com∣mandery; for tho' I told you that these Places are usually given to the Senior Knights, yet there are a considerable Number of 'em at the Great Master••s disposal, who bestows 'em on his Favourites. These are call'd Commanderies of Grace, or Favour, which exclude not the Possessors of 'em from enjoying the Commanderies that fall to 'em by right of Se∣niority: And besides, there are certain particular Offices belonging to each Language, such as that of Treasurer, Master of the Artillery, &c. The Three Sovereign Jurisdictions of Malta belong to the College of the Grand Crosses. The First is the Great

Council, compos'd of all the Members of the Col∣lege: The Second is the Council of the Treasury; and the Third of the Marine, or Admiralty; con∣sisting each of three Members. Besides, the Great Master chuses every Year a Captain of the Verga, who must be a Native of Malta, and consequent∣ly no Knight: His Office is to administer Justice to the Inhabitants of the City and Country. This right of Seniority which gives a Title to the Of∣fices of Commanders and Grand Crosses, is a great Mortification to those who are not made Knights in their Youth: And therefore they who design to obtain that Dignity for their Children, procure 'em to be receiv'd into the Order as soon as they are born, that they may not wait too long for Preferrment. In the mean time, those who have no Estates live in their respective Inns, of which every Language has one. The Seven Lan∣guages are those of Provence, Auvergne, France, Italy, Arragon, Germany, and Castile. Over every Language there is a Grand Cross, to whom the Order allows eighty Crowns for each Man.

The Members of the Second Class serve at the Altar, and are only capable of Ecclesiastical Pre∣ferment: Thus they may obtain the Offices of Vicars, Canons, and Grand Prior, which is the highest Dignity within the reach of their Am∣bition.

The Serving Knights are incapable of being pro∣moted to the Dignity of a Grand Cross, or of enjoying a Commandery by right of Seniority; but they may possess Commanderies of Grace, which the Great Master sometimes bestows on 'em, either as a particular Mark of his Kindness, or as a Reward of their Valour. They may rigg out Privateers under the Banner of the Order; but none of this Classis can be made Captain of the Galleys, since the Noble Knights wou'd not submit to his Authority.

As for the Great Master's Knights, who compose the Fourth Class, they receive no other Honour or Advantage by their Admission into the Order, but a Salary of Eighty Crowns a Year, and the Title of Knights of S. John.

To these Four Classes I might add a Fifth, I mean the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre, who wear a Cross of Gold Potency; but since they are not ac∣knowledg'd by the Knights of Malta, and have no other Patents than what they receive from the Fathers Observants, who are at present Guardians of the Sepulchre, I will not trouble you with a far∣ther Account of 'em.

Having given you a general Idea of the Four Classes, and of all the inferiour Offices, I shall in the next place proceed to consider the Supreme Dignity of the Order. The Great, Master is very careful to preserve the Respect due to his Chara∣cter, and seldom Converses familiarly with the Knights, nor even with the Grand Crosses. When he goes to Church, all the Knights whom he meets in the Square, and by the Way, join in his Train; and when he returns they make a dou∣ble File, thro' which he passes. All the Officers of his Houshold are Noble Knights, even the very Pages, of whom he entertains twenty four. His princi∣pal Officers are the Master of the Horse, the Major Domo, and the High Chamberlain. The present Great Master is descended from the Illustrious House of Caraffa: He is a large and thick Man, of a good Mien, but very old: He keeps a Table for a hundred Knights, whom he chuses to be partakers of his Bounty, and who by that means may save the Pension they receive from the Order.

The Habits of the Knights are very different at Malta: The French, Italians, and Spaniards re∣taining the Modes of their respective Nations. The Garb of the last is so odd, that I cannot for∣bear

giving you some Account of it: They wear a Doublet slit before and behind, and the Sleeves are also slit, and close at the Wrists; an old-fa∣shion'd Collar, narrow Breeches fasten'd with But∣tons; and, in a Word, I cou'd not chuse a more Comical Habit if I were going to act the Spani∣ard in a Mask. The Italians are dress'd exactly like so many Scaramouchi••s.

The Order takes care to preserve some exter∣nal Marks of Hospitality, which, as I told you, was the Design of their Institution: They keep a Magnificent Hospital, endow'd with a Revenue of 50000 Livres. The Commandery of it belongs to the French Language, and is one of the principal Offices of the Order: The Magnificence of the Structure does not appear on the Outside, but the Apartments are very fine. There are five Halls, capable of containing four hundred sick Persons, who are serv'd by the Knights when they Eat or Drink, the Servants of the Hospital taking care of the rest. The Vessels are generally of Silver; the Beds are good, and the Linen is chang'd pretty often. And besides, the diseas'd are so plentiful∣ly furnish'd with all things that are proper for their Entertainment and Cure, that the Knights themselves scruple not to lodge here when they are sick. 'Tis true, they are not laid in the same Rooms with so many dead and dying Persons, whose Company alone wou'd infect the soundest Man in the World with their Distempers: For they lie in separate Halls, and are serv'd apart. Catholicks of all Nations, without exception, are receiv'd into the Hospital; but these Acts of Cha∣rity are not very Chargeable to the Order, since their Guests are seldom very Numerous.

These few Observations may suffice to give you an Idea of the Order of Malta. My next shall contain an Account of the Island in general, and

of the Manners and Customs of its Inhabitants: In the mean time I wish you good Night, and am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Malta, June 1690.

LETTER XI.

SIR,

MAlta is so low an Island that 'tis scarce dis∣cernible above twenty Miles off at Sea, even in the clearest Weather; so that many Ships pass by without perceiving it. There are no Woods in it by reason of the shallowness of the Ground; for the whole Island is only a dry Rock, which, with much ado, may be made to produce some∣thing. And the scarcity of Earth makes it so precious, that if a Man were found stealing it out of his Neighbours Grounds, he wou'd be punish'd with the utmost Severity. The only Trees that grow there are Oranges, Citrons, Apricocks, Peaches, and Pomgranates, which require no great depth of Earth; and even these grow only in certain parts of the Island, the rest being planted with Vines, which bear a very delicious Grape: There are al∣so Strawberries, Pastaiques, and excellent Figs, and a prodigious quantity of the best M••lo••s in the World, which we eat as often as we please: They are almost all white, but sweet as Sugar, and melt in the Mouth. The Pastaique is a Fruit very much resembling a Citrul, but not quite so big. 'Tis eaten raw like a Melon, and melts in the

Mouth. Tho' it be expos'd a whole Day to the Sun-Beams, it remains as fresh as if it had been kept in Snow. There are two sorts of it, one red, and the other white: The first is the best; but the Buyer must take 'em at a venture, as well as Melons. 'Tis the usual Custom when five or six Citizens meet on the publick Place, to open a Score of 'em, and those who have the fortune to meet with none but white ones, are oblig'd to pay for the rest; which they call playing at Pastaiques.

Malta is hotter than Rome, or any other place in Europe; and the stifling Heat of the Climate is so much the more insupportable, because there are no cool Breezes to temper it; and the Brow of the Hill is expos'd directly to the South. The Peasants are as black as Egyptians; for they take no care to preserve themselves from the Sun; and the most scorching Heat is not able to drive 'em into their Houses, or even make 'em leave off working. This is an evident Demonstration of the Power of Nature in performing things that seem to be impossible: For there are few things which a Man may not suffer if he be ac∣custom'd to 'em from his Infancy, as the Mal∣tese are in this case, who inure the Bodies of their Children to Heat, by making 'em go stark naked, without Shirt, Drawers, or Cap, as soon as they are taken from their Mother s Breast, to the Age of Ten Years; so that their Skin grows as hard as Leather. You will easily perceive that I speak of the Peasants, and Meaner sort of the Inhabitants; for all the rest cloath their Chil∣dren as they do in other Countries: Only to pre∣serve themselves from the Heat, they never go a∣broad during the hottest part of the Day; and besides, they cloath themselves very slightly, and sleep from Noon till four a-clock. The richer

sort make use of a kind of Fans, which are ve∣ry much in fashion among Persons of Quality in Italy, I mean certain Machines hung at the Ceil∣ing, about three Foot broad and usually made of some Silk Stuff, stretch••d upon small and very thin Laths, surrounded with Ostrich-Feathers. There is also a small silken Cord fasten'd to it, and drawn thro' a Hole into the Anti-chamber, where a Servant is plac'd to keep the Machine playing by pulling the Cord. These Fans are u∣sually hung over a Couch, or Bed of Repose, where a Man may lie and enjoy the Pleasure of Fan∣ning as long as he pleases: And sometimes one of 'em is plac'd on the Table, both for Coolness, and to drive away the Flies. If you consider al∣so the Sorbet, Straw-berries, Raspherries, and all the cooling Waters us'd in Italy, you will not blame me for affirming that a Rich Man may live com∣fortably in any Climate, and easily avoid all the Inconveniencies of excessive Heat or Cold. I need not go farther than Malta for a convincing Proof of this Assertion; since the violent Heat that reigns here serves only to encrease the Pleasure of being fann'd, and of drinking cold Liquors, with which this Island is always furnish d, tho' the Winter produces neither Snow nor Ice: For the Great Master takes care to sup∣ply that defect, by letting out the Sale of these Commodities by way of Farm, to a Man, who sends every Winter to Sicily for a sufficient quan∣tity to fill the Ice-Houses, and is oblig d to fur∣nish the Island all the Summer, under pain of paying a Fine of Ten Crowns a Day, in case of failure.

The Island of Malta is very populous, and rec∣kon'd to contain 15000 Men, who are all divi∣ded into Companies. They are oblig'd to wear Swords, but forbidden to draw 'em under such ri∣gorous

Penalties, that the natural Malice of the Inhabitants is very effectually curb••d by their Fear of Punishment: Yet they sometimes venture to execute their Fury with a little Poniard or Stiletto, after the Italian fashion. I cannot better express the barbarity of their Temper and Inclinations, than by telling you, that their Humour is not different from that of the Sicilians, that, like them, they are Treacherous and Bloody, Jealous even to Mad∣ness, and capable of attempting the most horrid Villanies when they are animated by that cruel Passion. To convince you of the Justness of this Character, 'twill be sufficient to relate two Acci∣dents that happen'd very lately; for the two Prin∣ciple Actors are still alive, and remain in the Churches of St. Lewis and St. John, whither they f••ed, to avoid the just Punishment of their Crimes.

The first had a young, handsom, and loving Wife, yet (according to the Custom of all his Countrymen, both Batchelors and marry'd Men,) he kept a Whore, who possess'd his Heart and Soul, and was so absolutely the Mistress of his Affection, that without regarding his Duty to his Wife, he lay every Night at her House. This malicious Woman made use of the Power she had over him to irritate him against his injur'd Wife, telling him, that he had reason to suspect her Ver∣tue, since he gave her so many inviting Oppor∣tunities of repaying him in his own Coin; and his guilty Conscience prompting him to conclude that the might be as vicious as himself, he resolv'd to bring her along with him every Night, and made her lie in the same Bed with him and his Concubine, since there was not another in the Lodging. Judge, Sir, with what Grief and Horrour this poor Creature cou'd behold her due Benevolence squander'd away upon an impudent Doxey in her presence;

and whether ever any Woman was so barbarously treated. 'Tis certainly the highest and most cruel Indignity that cou'd be put upon a Wife; and there is no Crime so inhumane which such a Husband wou'd not dare to commit. Thus she liv'd for above a Year, till at last her Patience being intirely exhausted, she was not able any longer to bear the insupportable Torment of be∣ing made the Spectatour of her own Shame and Misery; and therefore advis'd her Husband, since he cou'd not overcome his Passion, to bring the Cu••t••san home to his House, where he might en∣joy his Pleasure with more Conveniency and less Charge. This Advice was so agreeable to his Hu∣mour, that he resolv'd once in his Life to com∣ply with her Desires: But she had little reason to be satisfy'd with the Success of her Proposal, for she liv'd in a perpetual Hell with her pityless Tormentour, and his insolent Strumpet. But in∣stead of making a tedious Relation of all the Af∣fronts they put upon her, I shall only acquaint you with the Tragical Conclusion of the Story. He had a Son, about nine Years old, who having seen his Mother at Church speaking to one of her Brothers, who was newly come from Italy, and whom the Boy did not know, went immediately to tell his Father, that his Mother was discoursing with a Stranger: And that inhumane Villain, without enquiring farther into the Matter, or so much as accusing her of her Crime, stabb'd her with his Poniard as soon as she came home.

The other, who retir'd to the Church of S. Lewis, was as unmerciful to his Whore as the former was to his Wife. He knew that she intended to Mar∣ry, and had often with horrible Threatnings for∣bidden her to prosecute that Design. But she was so weary of her infamous way of Living, that she resolv'd, notwithstanding his repeated Menaces,

to provide herself a Husband, and was even actu∣ally engag••d with a certain Tradesman. Her Gal∣lant hearing of this new Intrigue, and having seen her two or three times talking with the young Man's Sister, ran to her House in a Transport of Fury, and immediately told her, that he was come to kill her. She being ignorant of the cause of his Rage, and imagining that he only intended to laugh at her Fear, threw her Arms about his Neck, and embracing him, And why, my Heart, said she, wou'dst thou kill me? Because thou art an impudent Where, reply'd he, and wou'dst Marry in spite of me; but I sh••ll quickly cure thy Longing: Immediately he stabb'd her in the Breast with his Poniard, and repeated the Blow four times, till he laid her dead upon the Spot. The Barbarity of these Murde∣rers is so prodigiously inhumane, that these two Instances will give you a livelier Idea of the Hu∣mour of this People, than the most pathetic De∣scription I cou••d make of it.

The Number of the Curtesans is extremely great; their Trade is not at all reputed scandalous; and when they have earn'd a little Money, they may Marry, and are esteem'd as honest Women as if they had kept their Maidenhead for their Husbands. No Person whatsoever dares offer 'em the least indignity; for they are look'd upon as Publick Persons that ought to be Sacred; and there are even some Ladies of Honour who disdain not their Acquaintance and Society; so that 'tis not an easie Task to distinguish those Prostitutes from Vertueus Women. The Curtesans of Rome and Mal•••• are beholding to the same Cause for the Advantageous Privileges they enjoy: There the Priests govern, and here the Authority is lodg'd in the Knights. Both of 'em have sworn Chastity, and neither of 'em are able to keep their Vows. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 cannot forbear taking notice of a pretty odd

Custom in this Place, for the conveniency of Strangers, who having no Acquaintance, and for the most part staying but two or three Days in the Island, might be sometimes oblig'd to leave it without tasting its most delicious Fruit: For 'tis not the Fashion here to visit Strangers in their Ships, as at Leghorn. Malta is a Land of Li∣berty, where Pleasure is not forc'd upon any Man: But they who have a mind to divert them∣selves, may easily find a Play-fellow by walking about the Streets with a Sequin in their Hand, holding it so that it may be seen; for this is a never-failing Signal, which will procure 'em twen∣ty Invitations in a Moment.

The Habit of the Women in this Place is as Me∣lancholic and Dismal when they go abroad, as 'tis Wanton and Lascivious when they are at home. In the Streets you see nothing but a long black Veil in∣stead of a Woman, which covers 'em so intirely from Head to Foot, that such a sight wou'd cost a Low Briton at least twenty Signs of the Cross: for the Wo∣men in this City look just like so many Ghosts wrapt in Shrowds, stalking about the Streets. But if they are Ghosts in the Street, they are Angels at home; for tho' the Peasants are tawny, the Wo∣men who live in the City have the fairest Complexi∣ons in the World. I can only give you an Account of their Summer Dress, since I never had occasion to see 'em in the Winter. They wear a fine White Smock, plaited at the Neck like a Man's Shirt; but the Opening is so wide, that it leaves their Shoulders and Breasts intirely expos'd to the View of the ravish'd Beholder: the Sleeves are very large, and tuck'd up to the Neck-band of the Smock to which they are fasten'd with a Pin, so that one may see their whole Arms. This Smock is almost their intire Habit, for they wear nothing above it but a very little Pair of Boddice about their Waste under

their Breasts, which being not above a Span long, serves only to set off the Fineness of their Shape, and rather exposes than conceals those alluring Charms that strike the Eyes and Hearts of the Spectator with a sweet but irresistible Violence. The Mens Habit is not different from ours, at least they endeavour as much as they can, to imitate it.

Almost all the Maltese are serv'd by Slaves, who are suffer'd to walk freely about the Streets all day, as well as those who belong to the Order; but they are all oblig'd to retire in the Evening to the publick Baths, as at Leghorn, and if any of 'em shou'd fail to come at the time appointed, he wou'd be put to death as a Fugitive. The Galley-Slaves are the most miserable Wretches in the World; yet there are some Persons here who have so little regard to their own Happiness, as to sell themselves for a hun∣dred Crowns to the Order: they continue Slaves during their whole Life without any Pay, rowing naked and chain'd as the rest, without any other Mark of Distinction than the Title of Bonne Vogue, whereas the Turks are call'd Slaves. I know there are also some of these voluntary Slaves at Venice, where they are call'd Gallioti, and even the Repub∣lick finds less Difficulty in levying 'em than in rai∣sing Soldiers: but they are only engag'd to serve three Years on the Galleys, whereas the Bonne Vogue at Malta are perpetual Slaves, without the least hope of recovering their Liberty.

There are only seven Galleys belonging to the Or∣der, which are sent every Year under the Command of a General to assist the Venetians. The Govern∣ment is constantly employ'd about raising new Funds, without which they cannot encrease the Number of their Galleys.

There are Three Languages spoken in the City; the French, Spanish, and Italian. The last of these is authoriz'd by the Government, and us'd in pub∣lick

Writings. The Peasants in the Country speak a corrupt Dialect of the Arabic: and 'twou'd not be an easie Task to make 'em leave it.

The Holy Office of the Inquisition, that dreadful Tri∣bunal, famous for its Injustice and Cruelty, reigns more Tyrannically here than at Rome it self. I have heard a hundred remarkable Stories of its Barbarity; but I'm too much your Friend to disturb the Tran∣quillity of your Mind with such dismal Relations. And therefore instead of entring on so Melancho∣lic a Subject, I shall only observe that Confessors, who in any other Country would be burnt if they should divulge the Secrets with which they are in∣trusted, are oblig'd here to reveal 'em, as often as the Inquisition is concern'd in the Discovery. 'Tis true, they do not own this Maxim, for fear of spoiling their Trade; but the Truth of it is too well known to be call'd in question: In the mean time, to prevent Suspicion, they are sometimes si∣lent for a Year or two, after which the Inquisitor sends for the Party accus'd, and asks him whe∣ther he knows the reason why he is brought be∣fore him. Then must the poor Wretch call to mind all that ever he said; and if he has either forgot his Fault, or refuses to own it, confiding in the Secrecy and Fidelity of his Confessour, whom he knows to be his only Confident, he's a dead Man, and must not entertain the least hope of Mercy: For they strangle him in Prison, and some time after tell his Relations that they may forbear sending him Provisions. Happy are they who are not subject to this Yoke!

I saw a Church, t'other day, in which there is a little Grotto, where 'tis said S. Paul liv'd three Months: But 'tis so small, and contriv'd in such a manner, that I'm much enclin'd to suspect the Truth of this Tradition. However, every one that comes, carries away a piece of it, as a Pre∣servative

against the biting of Serpents: And they pretend that by a perpetual Miracle, the Rock is never diminish'd. I will not dispute the Truth of the Matter of Fact, tho' I can assure you that there are visible Gaps or Notches in the Rock, and that they still continue to break off Pieces of it: But supposing it to be as big as ever, I see no reason why we shou'd have recourse to a Mi∣racle on this Occasion, since 'tis generally acknow∣ledg'd, that there are some Rocks which grow naturally till they be separated from their Roots: And our Mariners, who are no very able Philo∣sophers, show'd me one in our Voyage hither, which is commonly call'd the Brothers; and why may not S. Paul••s Grotto be of the same Nature. But this is not the only Miracle in Malta: They tell us, that there are no Serpents in the Island, and wou'd have us believe that this Privilege was the Effect of a Viper's biting the same Apostle, as you may read in the Acts of the Apostles. For my part, I must confess, I'm as little satisfy'd with this Sotry as with the other; for some Per∣sons assure me that there are Serpents in Malta: But supposing there were none, I had occasion to men∣tion another Island in my last, which may boast of the same Advantage; and why shou'd the Mi∣racle be greater here than at Guernsey, where tis certain there is neither Toad, Scorpion, nor any o∣ther Venomous Creature: And, which adds to the Wonder, I know that the Governour, who is a Curious Person, having order'd some of those Ani∣mals to be brought to the Island, they dy••d im∣mediately. I'm confident if the Roman-Catholicks were Masters of that Island, they wou••d make some Saint the Author of this Privilege, which might perhaps be pretended with less improbabili∣ty, to be the effect of a supernatural Cause, than at Malta, since the Island of Jersey, which is but

seven Leagues distant from Guernsey, is so extreme∣ly pester'd with Serpents and Toads, that the Houses are full of 'em, and none of the Peasants dare lie upon the Ground. This, I doubt not will seem strange to you; but you will be stil•• more surpriz'd when I have told you that it rains Toads in this Island: If you suspect the Truth of this odd Phaenomenon, you may receive a Con∣firmation of it from any Man that has been upon the Place.

Nature is so Mysterious and Unsearchable in her Operations, and Men are generally so apt to admire what they cannot comprehend, that their Inclination to ascribe surprizing Events to super∣natural Causes, may be justly reckon'd an effect of their Ignorance. I'm so fully persuaded of this Truth, that I seldom or never take Notice of those Miracles that make so great a Noise in the Coun∣treys thro' which I have occasion to pass: And besides, since I have reason to believe that such Stories wou'd not contribute much to your Di∣version: I'm resolv'd to trouble you with none of 'em, unless they be either very extraordinary, or extremely ridiculous.

I hope my next Letter shall be dated from Con∣stantinople, for we intend to set sail to Morrow.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Malta, June 1690.

LETTER XII.

SIR,

WE sail'd from Malta, June..., and leaving Sicily on our Left-hand, enter'd the Archi∣pelago. After a Voyage of fifteen Days, without any remarkable Disturbance, we arriv'd at the Height of Troy, and our Vessel standing in to Tenedos, both by reason of the contrary Wind, and to take in some fresh Provisions, I took this Occasion to visit the Ruines of that famous City, which are at present so obscure and inconsiderable, that unless a Man's Mind were full of the Idea of it, he might view it all over without perceiving the least reason to conclude that ever any Town stood in that place. Yet by a Curious Search, an inquisitive Traveller may find enough to convince him, that 'twas formerly of a prodigious Extent: And I observ'd some Marks of it in four or five different Places, two of which were about twen∣ty Miles distant. The next Day we set sail with a favourable Wind, and enter'd the Canal of Constan∣tinople, otherwise call'd the Hellespont, at the Mouth of which we found two Castles, one in Europe, and the other in Asia, separated by the Canal or Strait, which is about a Mile and a half broad in this Place, and retains the same breadth almost throughout. The European Castle is a Mass com∣pos'd of three great Towers, surrounded with a weak and inconsiderable Wall, after the manner of a False-bray, at the Foot of which there are twen∣ty Pieces of Cannon level with the Water. 'Tis said that they carry a fifty Pound Ball of Stone; and indeed their Mouths are so wide, that the

very sight of 'em is terrible: Nevertheless, I'm apt to believe that they are not fit for Service, and even that they cou'd not bear above one discharge, both by reason of their thinness, and because they are not mounted on Carriages. There is a Mountain behind the Castle that overlooks and commands it.

The other Castle, which is seated upon the Asian Shore, is of a Square Figure, according to the Ancient manner of Building, defended only with some small Towers join'd to the Wall; and with∣out there is a Battery of Cannons behind a Wall, as in the other. The Captain was oblig'd to stop at this place, and one of the Officers of the Cu∣stom-House came on board our Ship, and accom∣pany'd us to Constantinople. Having pass'd the Ca∣nal, we enter'd into the Sea formerly call'd the Propontis, and at present Marmora, from the Name of an Island which contains a great quantity of very fine Marble. Twenty Miles from thence we discover'd Constantinople, and had the pleasure of viewing the finest Landskip that ever I beheld; for it strikes all those who look upon it with Wonder and Astonishment. Imagine you see a great City stretch'd along the Shore for above six Miles, and so situated sloping towards the Sea, that you perceive at once an infinite Number of Mosquees, adorn'd with little Domes cover'd with Lead, and high Turrets, which altogether make one of the most lovely Prospects in the World: Whilst the Eye is busy'd in contemplating this charming Variety of Objects, 'tis agreeably divert∣ed with the sight of the Castle of the Seven Towers, and of the Seraglio, which are particularly remark∣able not only for their largeness, but for a vast Number of gilt Globes and Spires, resembling lit∣tle Steeples. The nearer I approach'd, I still dis∣cover'd new Ornaments; and after I had consi∣der••d

at leisure so many Wonders, I was at last agreeably surpriz'd with the Beauty of the Port: 'Tis three Miles long, and almost one broad, clean and deep throughout, even to the Shoar, the lar∣gest Ships coming up close to the Land, so that one may go on board without making use of a Boat. 'Tis strange that the Harbour is never fill'd up, especially near the Shore, since all the Filth of the City is cast into it, without the Advan∣tage of a Tide to carry it away. At the En∣trance into the Port there is a high square Tower, commonly call'd The Tower of Leander, from a Per∣son of that Name, who, according to the Story, us'd to swim thither every Night to see his Mi∣stress, who was imprison'd in the Tower. There is a Fountain on the Rock, with some Pieces of Cannon, which might defend the Entry in case of Necessity.

As soon as we arriv'd, I went with the Captain to salute the Baron de Chasteau-neuf, Ambassador of France, who receiv'd me very civilly. He has a good Mien, and is Master of a great deal of Wit: He was formerly Councellor in the Parlia∣ment of Paris, and was sent to the Port about the end of the last Year, in the room of Monsieur de Girardin, who died here. He is a Savoyard by birth, but a very zealous Promoter of the Interests of Franee: He spares nothing to gain the Turks; he endeavours to win 'em with Presents, Caresses, and Entertainments; his Table is always full of 'em; but his principal Care is to oblige those whom he knows to be the Favourites of the great Officers. I know one among the rest, call'd So∣liman Aga, who is extremely debauch'd, and since he always finds excellent Win•• at the Ambassa∣dor••s Table, he goes thither very often, and is still receiv'd with all imaginable Demonstrations of Love and Kindness. After I had the Honour to

Sup with the Ambassadour, I went to lodge at a Tavern, or Victualling-House. If I had resolv'd to have stay'd long in the Country, I wou'd have boarded in some Family, for Strangers are very ill accomodated in these Publick-Houses. Every Nation is permitted to have three; so that there wou'd be nine in all, if the English and Dutch thought fit to make use of their Privilege: 'Tis still more difficult to obtain a Permission to keep an Oven: One must procure a special Mandamus from the Sultan for that effect, and pay a Thou∣sand Avanies to the Bassa and Cadi; and there is only one allow'd for the use of each Nation in every Town; for the Turks are so extremely afraid of Fire, that they suffer very few Ovens to be kept in their Cities. They are also very careful to prevent the Exportation of Corn; for 'tis a Ca∣pital Crime to carry it out of the Country, or even to sell it to private Families: And for the more effectual Execution of these Orders, there are certain Officers appointed to over-see the Mar∣kets, who suffer no Man to buy a∣bove * 1.4Four Muids at a time, nor even the least quantity, without a Licence from the Nais. Offences of this Na∣ture are punish'd with so much Rigour, that if a Peasant were convicted of selling his Corn to a Christian, 'twou'd cost him more than 500 Bastina∣do's. But before I proceed to describe the Man∣ners and Customs of the Inhabitants, I shall give you a short Account of the City of Constanti∣nople.

'Tis seated in Europe, on a Point or Tongue of Land that juts out into the Sea of Marmora, in a Triangular Figure, six Miles long, and fourteen in compass, two of its sides being wash'd by the Sea. 'Twas founded by Pausanias, King of Sparta, who gave it the Name of Byzantium, which it re∣tain'd

till Constantine the Great, resolving to make it the Metropolis of the World, order'd it to be rebuilt with all imaginable Magnificence; after which it took the Name of Constantinople, or Con∣stantine's Town; but the Turks call it Stambol. The French, in Conjunction with the Venetians, took it in 1203. and fifty Years after ▪twas re-taken by the Greeks, who remain'd Masters of it till the Year 1453, when it fell into the Hands of Ma∣homet II. 'Tis at present the Capital City of the Ottoman Empire, as it appears by the Grand Sig∣nior's Titles, who stiles himself, The Ruler of Kings, Distributer of Crowns, Lord of the White and Black Seas, of Bagdat, Grand Cairo, Aleppo, &c. and particularly of the fain City of Stambol the well-defen∣ded, which is the Desire of the Kings and Princes of the Earth.

The Air is extremely pure, and so wholsome, that the Inhabitants are never subject to any reigning Disease but the Plague, which visits 'em every Year, and makes a dreadful Havock among 'em. I'm apt to think that they wou'd live till they dropt into their Graves through meer Age and Weakness, if their Days were not shorten'd by this Infectious Malady; and they are so little acquainted with any other mortal Di∣stemper, that when a Frenchman assures 'em that the Plague is hardly known in his Country, they usually cry, What d'ye die of then? The Climate is so Temperate, that the Winters are never excessively Cold, and the Summer-Heats are usually allay'd with a pleasant Brieze, besides the drinking of cool Liquors, which, in my Opinion, is one of the greatest Pleasures of this Life.

In the Account I have given you of the Situ∣ation and Bigness of Constantinople, I speak only of the City which properly bears that Name; for there are four other Towns join'd together, call'd

Cassum Pacha, Galata, Pera, and Tophana, which may be consider'd as a part, or rather as the Suburbs of the City, since they are only separated from it by the breadth of the Port, which is so small a distance, that a Man who cries aloud, tho' with∣out extending his Voice to the utmost, may be easily heard on the other side. In these Towns, and particularly in Pera, the Ambassadors and all the Franks live; for they are not permitted to reside at Constantinople. And 'tis to be observ'd, that the Name of Franks is given indifferenly to Men of all Nations who wear Hats. These four Cities are about eight Miles in compass; so that if they, together with the Village of Scutaret, and some other Suburbs, be added to the City of Con∣stantinople, and all join'd together to make one vast Town, Constantinople, in this sense, wou'd be found to be double of Paris. But there is a great variety of Opinions in this Case: Some comprehend all the a∣bove-mention'd places under the Name of Constan∣tinople, others cut off the four Cities; and there are some who include the City within the com∣pass of its own Walls; so that almost every Tra∣veller gives a different Account of its Extent from all others.

The Walls with which 'tis at present surroun∣ded, are the same that were built by Constan∣stine the Great, except in some places where they have been repair'd. They are double on the side next the Land, with Battlements, after the Oriental fashion, and Towers from place to place; and be∣sides, they are defended with a lin'd but shallow Ditch: These, with the Castle of the Seven Towers, are all the Strength of Constantinople; for the Num∣ber of its Inhabitants deserves not to be reckon'd among its Advantages, since those Turks who are never accustom'd to War, are so unfit to resist an Enemy, that they wou'd only serve to consume

the Provisions, and hasten a Famine: And besides, I'm persuaded that Bombs wou'd do more execu∣tion here than in any other City in the World; for the Houses are generally of Wood, and the Streets so narrow, that in the greatest part of 'em two loaded Horses cannot go a-breast. But this is not the greatest inconvenience of their manner of Building; for their Houses jut out so far near the Top, that in several places one may step from one Window to another, and cross the Street without going down from his Chamber. This Contrivance of their Houses does not pro∣ceed from want of Room, for the City is full of Gardens, and large Courts, that are perfectly use∣less. But tho' I cannot acquaint you with the reason that makes 'em so fond of this manner of Building, I can assure you that it exposes 'em to all those fatal Inconveniencies that are occasion'd by Fire, which breaks out very frequently, and proceeds with irresistable Fury, till it meets with some Garden, or empty Place, where there are no Houses to be burnt. Among so many Instan∣ces of this Nature, I shall only take notice of one that happen'd in the Year 88, which made so ter∣rible a Havock in the City, that there were a∣bove 3000 Houses laid in Ashes. But besides the dangerous Consequences of this kind of Archite∣cture, 'tis also very offensive to the Eye; for the Streets are extremely disfigur'd by this Irregulari∣ty: Nor are there any external Ornaments on the Houses to make amends for this Defect, since they are only daub••d over with a nasty red Paint, laid upon the rough Wood, which is neither plan'd, nor cut with any other Instrument than an Axe or Saw; so that the Houses are all very ugly. Judge, Sir, what reason I had to be surpriz'd, when after I had view'd with Amazement the magnificent Prospect of the City from the Sea of

Marmora, I saw all my Expectations baulk'd, and instead of so many Wonders, found only some Mosques, and a few Monuments of Antiquity. Not that I wou••d discourage any Curious Person from undertaking this Voyage; for tho' the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants ought never to be propos••d for Imitation, they are so odd and singular, that an Inquisitive Traveller may employ his Time and Curiosity with a great deal of Plea∣sure in observing 'em. The Turks are opposite to us in almost all respects: We content our selves with one Wife, They marry several Wives; Our Habit is short, Theirs long; We wear our Hair long, and our Beards shav'd, They shave their Hair, and suffer their Beards to grow; We write in a streight Line from Left to Right, and They in a crooked from Right to Left. I cou'd easily add several other Instances of the same Nature, since the Opposition reaches even to the meanest Acti∣ons, such as the easing of Nature; for they crouch down to Piss, like Women, and when they have done, rub their Privities on a Wall, which they think purifies 'em.

Two Days after our Arrival at Galata, the Cap∣tain and I went to see Constantinople, with the French Interpreter, who accompany'd us on purpose to show us all the Curiosities. There are always so many Boats passing from one side to another, that the Port is usually cover'd with 'em, and their Fare is only an Asper. We took Boat at the Custom-House, and enter'd the City at the Gate of Gala∣ta, or the next Gate to the Seraglio, which we kept on our Left-hand, and went streight to the Besestin, which is a distinct Canton of the City, enclos'd with Gates and Walls, where all the Mer∣chants keep Shops. This is the finest and most regular place in Constantinople, not unlike to the places that are appointed for the keeping of Fairs

among us, such as that of S. Germain at Paris: The Streets are divided after the same manner, and cover'd above with Planks join'd together upon Rafters, which form a kind of Roof, sufficient to secure the place against all the Inconveniences of bad Weather, tho' there are Holes left to let in the Light. Here all the finest and most precious Wares of Constantinople are to be seen; for every Merchant keeps a Shop in this Place, as it were for a Pattern of all the Goods contain'd in his Ware-house; and the Shops are rank'd and dispos'd in such excellent Order, that the Buyer may di∣spatch his Business in less than a quarter of an Hour; for all the Trades are separated, and con∣fin'd to their proper places. Thus one part of the Besestin is possess••d by the goldsmiths, whose Work, indeed, is not so fine, nor their Shops so well furnish••d as in France or England; but I only speak here of their Order and Regularity: Another place is set apart for the Drapers, or those who sell Dutch, French, and English Cloth: Not far from thence are the Sellers of Silk Stuffs, and Gold and Silver Brocado's; the Makers of Talpo, or Head-Dresses for Women, which are very magnificent; the Babouchi, or Shoo••-makers, the Taylors, Grocers, and all sort of Shopkeepers, have also their di∣stinct Streets. The Gates are shut every Evening at Ten a Clock, by Persons who are hir••d for that purpose, and those who have occasion to pass this way later, must give two or three Pence to the Porters, who wait constantly at the Gates. This is the only place in Constantinople where there are Shops; for the rest of the City consists only of little and narrow Streets, which for the most part are so desolate that one may pass thro' the Town without meeting so many Persons as Streets, unless in the Publick Places, such as the Hyppodrome, whither we went after we had view'd the Besestin. This spacious

Place was built by the Emperour Constantine, for Exercises on Horse-back, and is still call'd by the Turks, the Place of Horses. 'Tis an Oblong Square, 400 Paces long, and about 200 broad. Towards the End opposite to the Seraglio, there are two Obelisks; the first consisting of one Stone, is seven∣ty Foot high, adorn'd with several Hieroglyphical Figures in Relief, and plac'd on a square Marble Pedestal. On one of the Faces of the Pedestal, there is a Latin Inscription, so ancient and worn, that all that can be learn'd by it is, that it was built by Theodosius: The second contains a like Inscription in Greek: The third is adorn'd with the Figure of the Emperour seated on a Throne, and accompany'd with his great Officers; and in the fourth there is a Representation of a Battle, in Memory of some Victory obtain'd over that Prince's Enemies. The other Obelisk is a sharp pointed Pyramid, built of Free-Stones, without any Inscription, and begins to decay extremely. Near these Obelisks there is a Brazen Pillar of a consi∣derable height, commonly call'd the Serpentine Co∣lumn, because it consists of three Serpents wreath'd and twisted together, with their Tails fasten'd in the Ground, and ending at the Top in three ga∣ping Heads, which seem to hiss, and threaten the three parts of the World that were known in that Age. Some pretend that this Column is a Hieroglyphical Representation of the united Em∣pires of the East and West, extending their Do∣minion over the whole Universe: But the most common Opinion is, that in the time of the Em∣perour Leo Isaurus, who was a great Magician, there were three Monstruous Serpents, who made so prodigious a Havock in the Country about Constantinople, that the People were forc'd to aban∣don their Habitations; and that the Emperor drew these Serpents by Enchantment into a large

Ditch, which he made in the middle of the Hippo∣drome, where they were kill'd, and cover'd with Earth. The Story adds, that to prevent a like Misfortune for the future, this Column was ere∣cted by the same Prince, as a Talisman against Serpents, of which there are at present very few in the Country. One of these Heads wants the the Nether-Jaw, and 'tis said that Sultan Morat broke it off with his Hand. The Turks boast much of the wonderful Strength of that Empe∣rour, as a Memorial of which, they preserve in the Castle of Grand Cairo, ten great Bucklers pierc'd with a Stake, or Wooden Javelin, which they pre∣tend he darted at 'em; the Stake sticking still in the Bucklers, and keeping 'em all joyn••d together.

The Story of the Serpentine Column is not the only fabulous Tradition concerning the Emperour Leo. The Greeks, especially, who are without Contra∣diction the most superstitious People in the World, and most addicted to Miracles, take pleasure in relating a Thousand Wonders of the Life of that Prince. For Example: They tell us that he made two Torto••ses, by Art Magick, of a surprizing big∣ness, which drew his Chariot, and both Eat and Drank, tho' they were not natural Animals; ad∣ding, that these Tertois••s are still to be seen in the Grand Sign••or's Garden, but that they have remain'd immoveable ever since his Death. They pretend also that the same Emperour made a Tree with its Franches and Leaves so artificially contriv••d, that they seem••d to be perfectly Natural, and that the Boughs were fill'd with a hundred Magical Birds of different kinds, who upon the least breath of Wind, warbl'd out their various Notes, and all together made a most charming Melody. These are some of the Tales with which the Greeks are wont to talk Men asleep.

There are two other Columns in Constantinople,

one call'd the Historical, and the other the Burnt Column; for the last was actually burnt. Adjoining to these we saw a large Court, appointed for the use of Archers: The Master of the Sport presented us with a Bow, and we had the Pleasure to shoot some Arrows at the Mark, which was fasten'd on a Wall, and contain'd several lesser Marks, gra∣dually decreasing, so that the least was not big∣ger than a Dutch Skelling; and yet I saw several Persons who hit at every Shoot, tho' they stood 100 Paces off.

In our return to Galata we pass'd by Sancta So∣phia, which is at present the principal Mosque of the City. There are several Doors that lead into a Portico, which brought us immediately into the Mosque. 'Tis 120 Paces long, and 80 broad: The Walls are Square, but the Vault or Roof is Round, and so artificially contriv'd, that so large a Stru∣cture is supported without any Columns; for those Rows of Columns that form the two lower Por∣tico's, serve only for Ornament, and are so plac'd that they cannot be suppos'd to carry any other weight than that of two Galleries; and even the greatest part of these Columns are so old, that they are forc'd to bind 'em about with great Iron Hoops, to prevent their falling. I know not what cou'd occasion all those Chinks that are observ'd in 'em, for they are built of a very hard and polish'd Stone, which some think is a kind of Marble, tho' others believe it to be the Serpentine Stone. There are thirty on each side, about sixteen Foot high, with very fine Cornices: The Vault of the Mosque re∣tains almost all its ancient Beauty; 'tis enrich'd with a very fine Mosaick Work, consisting of little gilt Stones so exactly join'd together, that they remain almost perfectly entire after so many Ages.

At the four Corners of the Building where the Vault begins to be round, the four Beasts mention'd

in the Apocalyps, are painted in Mosaick; only the Turks have disfigur'd their Faces, as they have al∣so done to an Image of Our Saviour, which is over the principal Door, represented after the Greek Fashion, upon a Throne, with his Hand lifted, and two of his Fingers stretch'd out, to bless a Saint, who lies prostrate before him, with his Face on the Ground, the Virgin appearing on the other side. Over the same Door there is also a Basso-Relievo, representing the Holy Ghost in the form of a Dove, which the Turks have not in the least disfigur'd. The Tomb of Constantine remains also intire, which the Turks hold in great Veneration; as well as the Stone on which the Virgin wash'd Our Saviour's Linnen. This Temple is pav'd with very fine Marble, and the Floor is cover'd with Mats; not to keep it from being foil'd, for they always put off their Babouche's, or Shooes, before they enter; but by reason of the coldness of the Marble, which might incommode those who come to perform their Devotions in this place, especially since they kneel or crouch down, almost after the same manner as they sit upon their Sopha's. The Keeper of the Temple was easily brib'd to permit me to satisfie my Curiosity with a distinct view of all the Cu∣riosities I have describ'd: But these Officers are not always in so good a Humour; for sometimes they are very civil, and soon prevail'd with to ad∣mit a Stranger into the Temple; but at other times they are so Surly and Obstinate, that one can hardly procure that Satisfaction at the rate of ten Pistoles. 'Tis true, indeed, they are expresly forbidden to grant that favour to Christians; and the permission which is sometimes given to Franks, is only an effect of their Indulgence: For if a Greek or Iew were found in the Mosque, he wou'd either be immediately put to Death, or constrain'd to save his Life by renouncing his Religion.

Sophia is a Greek Word, signifying Wisdom, and this Temple was so call'd by the Emperor Ju∣stinian, who consecrated it to the Sovereign Wis∣dom. I shall briefly acquaint you with the Histo∣ry of its Foundation, as I had it from the Greeks. You may depend upon the fidelity of my Relati∣on; but I dare not undertake to justifie the Cre∣dit of my Authors.

The Emperor Iustinian being dangerously sick, his Physician, call'd Samson, whose Mind was no less enlighten'd by the Inspirations of the Holy Ghost, than by the Knowledge of Philosophy, and of the Art which he profess'd, told him, that his Distem∣per was of such a Nature, that it cou'd not be cur'd by the Precepts of Physick, and that he must depend wholly upon the Assistance of Heaven, advising him to make some Religious Vows, and encouraging him with some Assurances that God wou'd hear his Prayer. The Devout Prince cheer∣fully embrac'd his Counsel, and vow'd to build a Temple which shou'd surpass all the Churches of the World in Magnificence. God was pleas'd with the sincerity of his Devotion; he rewarded his Faith, and rescu'd him from the Jaws of Death: Nor was Iustinian unmindful of his Duty to his Gracious Deliverer. In order to the performanc•• of his Vow, he fram'd the Model of the Church of Sancta Sophia, such as 'tis at present, and em∣ploy'd a vast Number of Workmen on the intend∣ed Building: But he had the Misfortune to see all his Treasures exhausted before the third part of the Work was compleated; so that he cou'd nei∣ther prosecute his Design, nor so much as pay 50 Days Wages which he ow'd to the Workmen; for Christian Emperors had not then assum'd the power of imposing Taxes on their Subjects, with∣out an indispensable Necessity. He was so over∣come with Sorrow when he saw that he cou'd

neither finish so pious a Work, nor, do Justice to the poor Men whom he had imploy'd, that he burst forth into Tears, and retir'd to his Closet, where he was breathing out his Complaints in the presence of his God; when a sudden Light shone thro' the Room, and discover'd a Youth of in∣comparable Beauty, who assur'd the sorrowful Em∣perour that God had seen his Tears, and heard his Prayers, and told him that he might quickly be happy if he wou'd send some of his Servants and 50 Camels along with him. Justinian's Heart was fill'd with Joy at the hearing of such welcome and unex∣pected Tidings: He commanded twenty of his Ser∣vants, with fifty Camels, to attend the bright Mes∣senger, who carry'd 'em out of Constantinople to a Field, where they found a stately Palace, tho' there was never any Building seen in that place either before or since. The Beauteous Youth, or rather Angel, (for so it seems he was) open'd the Gates of this Magnificent Structure, and led 'em to a Hall, where they saw vast Heaps of Gold, Sil∣ver, and all sorts of Jewels: He orderd 'em to load their Camels; and then both he and the Pa∣lace disappear'd, only the Treasure remain'd, which the Emperor receiv'd with all the Marks of a joy∣ful Gratitude, and employ'd it in building and adorning the Church of Sancta Sophia in so admi∣rable a manner, that the Temple of Solomon in its highest Glory, was neither more Beautiful nor Mag∣nificent. He built also with the same Money a large and stately Hospital, where Persons of all Nations were charitably entertain'd. And since there was still a great quantity of Treasure left, which the Emperor's Piety wou'd not suffer him to employ in prophane Uses, he order'd the Jew∣els to be samp'd to Powder, and the Gold and Silver to be melted, and mixing 'em all together, he made the most precious Table that ever adorn'd

a Temple, and plac'd it on the High Altar, to serve at the daily Consecration of the Sacrament, where it remain'd till the Venetians carry'd it away with those admirable Brazen Gates, which are at present to be seen at S. Mark's. But God wou'd not suffer so Holy a Piece to become a Prey to those who cou'd not pretend any right to it; the Galley that carry'd it open'd miraculously at the Mouth of the Canal, in the Sea of Marmora, where it sunk, and was never afterwards found.

This, Sir, (if you have Faith enough to believe it) is the Original of Sancta Sophia, which was for∣merly a Christian Church, and is now a Turkish Mos∣quee. 'Tis at present the only Ancient Structure of that Nature in Constantinople; for all the rest were built in this and the last Age, by the Sul∣tans or Sultanesses, whose Names they bear. There are seven or eight particularly remarkable, I mean those of the Sultans Mahomet, Achmet, Solyman, and Selim, with those of Chazadet, and Validé, and some others, built after the same Model, and differing only in the largeness of the Structure, the Num∣ber of the Fountains, and variety of the Painting; so that the Description of one will give a just Idea of all the rest, and therefore I shall make choice of that of Valide, which is the newest and most beautiful Mosque I have yet seen: 'Twas built by the Sultaness Validé, Mother of Sultan Ma∣homet IV. and is seated in the midst of a large square Court, resembling a vast Cloyster, because of the arch'd Roofs that inviron it in form of Portico's; under which there are many Fountains with Cocks, where those who are polluted may wash themselves before they enter the Mosquee. It has but one Gate, surrounded with a Portico of a considerable height, pav'd with white and black Marble, and supported by sixty four Co∣lumns of red Marble, eight of which are of Por∣phyrie,

plac'd near the Entry, but of no very re∣gular Design, because the bigness of the Pieces is pre∣serv'd entire: The Plafond is adorn'd with Paint∣ing and Figures, after the Turkish manner, of which afterwards you may expect a more particular Ac∣count. The Portico is cover'd with little Domes, with a very large one in the middle, over-topping the rest; the whole Structure consisting of Ma∣son's-Work cover'd with Lead. At the four Cor∣ners of the Building there are four Turrets, call'd Minarets, built of Free-Stone, and so small that there is just room enough within for a little Winding-Stair-case, reaching to three fourth parts of the Height, which the Muezans, or Marabouds, ascend every Morning and Evening, to give the People notice of the appointed times of Prayer, shouting till they are out of Breath, with an extremely harsh and disagreeable Tone; for they begin with a very low Voice, and raising it by degrees, end in a very loud Shriek, so that 'twou'd be impos∣sible to understand 'em, if the People were not already acquainted with what they say. As they cry, they clap their Hands upon their Ears, and go round the Turret in a little Balcony, that their Voice may be heard thro' the whole Town, re∣peating these Words; Allah ekber, allah ekber, allah ekber, eschadou in la illah, illallah, hi alle salla, hi alle salla, allah ekber, allah ekber, allah ekber, la illah, illal∣lah. God is Great, God is Great, God is Great; give testimony that there is but One God: Come yield your selves up to his Mercy, and pray him to forgive you your Sins. God is Great, God is Great, God is Great, there is no other God but God. These Turrets are very high, and for the most part end in a Globe or Cre∣scent, which is sometimes Gilt. This is a brief Representation of the external Architecture of Va∣lid••, and consequently of the other Mosquees. Within they are either vaulted, or cover'd with a

Plafond: That of Validé is vaulted, and adorn'd with a great Number of Lamps, and Globes of Glass. When they say Prayers, they turn their Face towards a large Frame at the end of the Mosque, in the same place where the High-Al∣tar stands in Roman-Catholick Churches. There is no Figure represented on this Frame or Table, only the Name of GOD is written on it in Ara∣bick Characters; and over-against it stands two Brazen Candlesticks, with a Taper of Virgin-Wax in each, bigger than a Man's Thigh. In the Mos∣quees that are founded by Emperôrs, there is u∣sually a Turbé, or little Chappel, in which they are bury'd. Some Sultans have built Turbe's apart, re∣sembling little Mosquees. Those of Amurat and Solyman I. are thè finest: The Body of the last lies in a Coffin, like those that are us'd in France, cover'd with a large piece of Tapistry, with a Turbant on his Head, in which there are two fine Aigrets. In the Turbé of Amurat there are Ele∣ven of his Children plac'd round him, with two of his Wives; and at the Head of the Coffin there is a little Cupboard or Press, where his Pra∣yer-Books are kept, which, are adorn'd with Gold and Precious-Stones, appearing thro' a Lat∣ten Grate, and all Mussulmen are permitted to read there, for the Repose of the Souls of the deceas'd. The Keepers of the Turbé are also oblig'd to pray for 'em at certain Hours of the Day. This Sepul∣chre is not very magnificent.

Having seen all the above-mention'd places, we return'd to Galata, resolving to spend another Day in visiting the rest of the Curiosities at Constantinople, which will furnish me with Matter for another Letter. In the mean time I am,

SIR,

Your. &c.

Constantinople; July, 1690.

LETTER XIII.

SIR,

THere are so few Palaces or other remarkable Buildings in Constantinople, that in two Days I compleated my Walk thro' the City; and the Observations I made are so inconsiderable, that I shall easily be able to finish, in this Letter, the De∣scription which I began in the last.

The Grand Signior▪s Arsenal is at the End of the Port, beyond Cassum Pacha and Galata. I found the Building better than I expected, after what I had seen in the rest of the City; and besides, it con∣tains a considerable extent of Ground: The Gal∣leys are laid up under 120 Arches, and 'tis said there are Arms in it for 60000 Men. But the Magazins are inaccessible to Christians, and they are only permitted to see the Baths where the Sultan's Slaves are shut up; the Number of these Wretches amounts to several Thousands; and their Lodgings are so miserable, that I repented the Curiosity that engag'd me in so unpleasant a Visit. The Cap∣tain Bassa lives in the Arsenal, with all the Officers of the Admiralty, that they may be always ready upon the Spot to receive his Orders.

Constantinople is full of certain Houses, which the Poverty and ill Customs of the place have render'd necessary, I mean the Hans and Karavanseraïs. The Hans consist of four Sides of Building, enclo∣sing a large square Court, in which there is al∣ways a Fountain, either in the midst, or in some other part of it. The Walls are very strong, and the Windows well barr'd, to secure the Goods that are laid in the Ware-Houses. The Roof consists

of little Domes cover'd with Lead, like those of the Mosquees. These Houses are appointed for the En∣tertainment of Foreign Merchants: They contain only two Stories, divided into Rooms, which have not the least Communication with one another. The lower Story is compos'd of Ware-Houses for the Goods, and the upper is divided into little Chambers, where the Merchants Lodge, but they must take care to furnish themselves with Beds, Pots, Dishes, &c. for they are only accommodated here with four bare Walls; and after they have provided their Furniture, they must buy their Meat at the Market or Bazar, and Dress it themselves, since o∣therwise they might starve with their Pockets full of Money. And, in the general, the way of Tra∣velling in this Country is so inconvenient and trou∣blesome, that this Consideration alone may serve to discourage any Man that loves his Ease from visit∣ing it out of pure Curiosity. For in the first place you must neither expect Coach, Waggon, Boat, Horses, nor any other convenient Carriage. If your Affairs oblige you to undertake a Journey, tho' not above 100 Leagues, you must wait three Months for a Caravan, which, after all, will not Travel above four Leagues a day, and carry no other Provisions but Rice, Bisket, and Salt Beef, on which you must make a shift to live, and encamp every Night till you ar∣rive at your Journies end, where, if you have not the conveniency of Lodging with a particular Friend, 'twill be in vain to enquire for the King's-Head, the White-Cross, or the Golden-Lyon: You must e'en creep into a Han with a hundred Wretches, whose Bru∣tishness is altogether insupportable, and reckon your self happy when ye can find such a Lodging, which, after all, is better than Encamping with the Caravan.

You will, perhaps, think it impossible to represent a more frightful Idea of Travelling; but I can assure

you, that all these Inconveniencies are not compa∣rable to those which they who Travel to Persia, or cross the Desarts of Arabia, must resolve to undergo. They must Travel six Months together expos'd to all the Inconveniencies of bad Weather, and for the most part in burning Sand, where there is neither a Stalk of Grass, nor a Spring to quench their Thirst. Besides, they are perpetually in danger of being surpriz'd by the Arabs, who rob and kill all that come in their way. But all these Incommodi∣ties may be either more easily avoided or supported than those terrible Distempers that usually seize Eu∣ropean Travellers, who are not accustom'd to such hot Climates and fatiguing Journeys. I shall take this occasion to relate a Story of one of my Friends who return'd, not long ago, from Poland, whither he went about the beginning of the last Year by the King's Order, in the quality of an Interpreter with Monsieur de Chateauneuf's Chancellor, call'd Beauchesne. He was seiz'd by the way with a vio∣lent Fever and Looseness, which brought him so low, and made him so troublesome to the Caravan-Bachi, or Captain of the Caravan, that his Com∣panions wou'd have left him to perish without assi∣stance, if that Officer had not been afraid to run the hazard of offending the Ambassador; yet he assur'd me that all their respect to Monsieur Chateau∣neuf cou'd not have protected him, if the Fever had seiz'd on his Head, and so made him incapable of sitting on Horseback. But these are not the only disadvantages which Travellers suffer in this Coun∣try; they are expos'd to a thousand other vexatious Accidents, and are constantly plagu'd with the Brutish Humours of the Camel-drivers. We are wont to complain of the Sawciness of Carriers and Coach-men; but I assure you they wou'd be reckon'd very mild and tractable in this Country, where every Camel-driver is as haughty as a Lord, and the

poor Traveller must keep in his Post under pain of a Bastanado, which he must take very patiently, for if he shou'd offer to return the Blow, I wou'd not ensure his Life for all the Money in the Caravan.

I thought my self oblig'd to give you a faithful Account of all these Inconveniencies, which most Travellers study to conceal; that, if any of your Friends have a mind to undertake the same Voyage, they may at least have the advantage of knowing what they are to expect, which they cou'd not have done if I had only given you a view of the pleasant and bright side of a Traveller's Entertainment. For my part, I must confess I had so strong an Inclina∣tion to Travelling, that I know not whether I shou'd have stopt on this side China, if I had not met with so many discouraging Rubs: But my Curiosity is wonderfully abated of late, and I'm so perfectly cur'd of my gadding Humor, that I'm resolv'd to confine my self hereafter to Europe, and to Travel only in such Places where I may find, at least, a piece of Beef, and a pair of clean Sheets at Night.

Since I had occasion to mention Beauchesne's Jour∣ney to Poland, 'twill not be improper to give you a short account of the cause of it.

The Turks being informed of the great Losses which the French sustain'd during the Campaign of 1689. and of the ill-fortune that attended His Ma∣jesty's Arms in Flanders, where the Mareschal D' Hu∣miere was unsuccessful in the only attempt he made, began to give less credit to the French Ambassador's smooth Harangues, and to desire a Peace with the Emperour. The Grand Visier spoke of it several times to Sir William Trumbal and Monsieur Collier, the English and Dutch Ambassadors, and sent Orders to His Master's Envoys at Vienna to hasten the desir'd Accommodation. And certainly the Grand Signior had reason to wish for a Peace, for his Affairs were in a very hopeless condition. At the beginning of

the Campaign his Troops suffer'd a considerable dis∣advantage in Croatia, where they lost above 2000 Men, with several Ensigns, and the Bassa who Com∣manded 'em. The Prince of Baden afterwards Routed 'em thrice in three memorable Battels, and they saw themselves expos'd to all the Insults of the Imperialists, who talk'd of nothing less than of Be∣sieging Constantinople. Temeswaer, Canissa, and Wara∣din, the only places they possest in Hungary, were closely Block'd up without any hope of Relief. Thus 'twas plainly the Interest of the Turks to ac∣cept of the Proposals that were made by their Vi∣ctorious Enemies: But the King's Interest was on this occasion directly opposite to that of his Allies. He dreaded the fatal consequences of such a Reso∣lution and left no means unessay'd to prevent its taking effect. He cajol'd the Grand Signior more than ever, and flatter'd him with the hope of ma∣king a separate Peace with the Polanders, since they had already enter'd into a Negotiation with the Tartars, and had sent Deputies for that effect to Count Tekeli, who was to perform the Office of a Mediator between 'em. This Stratagem produc'd the desir'd effect, and the Turk was the more easily deluded, because he knew that not long before there happen'd a sort of Quarrel between the Courts of Poland and Vienna. For the Emperor had granted his Protection to the Moldavians, and on that score was to receive the same Tribute which they for∣merly paid to the Turks. The King of Poland pre∣tended a right to that Province, as an ancient Fief of his Crown: But the Emperor wou'd not give him any satisfaction, and even refus'd to answer the Polish Ambassador's Remonstrances on that subject. In the mean time the French and Turkish Ambassadors at the Court of Poland, were not idle Spectators of so favourable a Juncture, they endeavour'd to fo∣ment the difference, and Beauchesne was dispatch'd

thither with several Instructions both from the King his Master, and from the Grand Visier. But all their Negotiations were unsuccessful, for they cou'd not prevail with the King of Poland to break his Con∣federacy with the Emperor.

I will not trouble you with an Apology for the length of this digression, into which the way of Travelling in Turkey has insensibly engag'd me. For since at the beginning of our Correspondence I resolv'd to entertain you from time to time with a familiar account, not only of my own Observa∣tions, but of what I shou'd learn from others; I see no reason why the prosecution of that design shou'd oblige me to a nice observance of an exact and regular Method.

I have already told you, that there are two sorts of Public Houses in Constantinople; the Hans, and the Karavanseraïs: And I shall take this occasion to add a short description of the Second to the larger account I gave you of the First.

They are both built after the same manner, only the Hans are enclos'd with good thick Walls, where∣as the Stone-work in the Karavanseraïs reaches no higher than the first or lower Story, the second be∣ing built of Wood, and cover'd with Bricks. They have only one Gate, as well as the Hans, and serve to lodge poor Strangers, and the Servants of the Caravans; for which reason they are call'd Kara∣vanseraï, or the Houses of the Caravans. All Indi∣gent Persons resort to 'em, paying from half a Crown, to a Crown a Month, according to the fineness of the House, or the advantages of its Situation.

After we had taken a slight view of several of these Houses, we went to the Grand Signior's Seraglio, which I cannot describe exactly, since I was not suffer'd to go further than the second Court, tho' I was accompany'd by an Aga of the Janisaries, to

whom I had been effectually recommended, and without whose assistance I must have contented my self with a view of the first. The Seraglio is built on a Point of Land that juts out into the Sea, which I had occasion to mention when I describ'd the situation of the City. 'Tis surrounded with high Walls of a greyish Stone, with a Parapet at the top, and Battlements like those of the City. It contains a vast extent of Ground, almost four Miles in compass, the greatest part of which is taken up with Gardens. The Structure is irregular, and very unsutable to the boasted Magnificence of its Master: For 'tis only a vast heap of Buildings not unlike to some old Castles in Christendom; and you see no∣thing on the outside but a confus'd medley of Houses, adorn'd with those little gilt Spires and Globes I mention'd in my last, in which all its Beauty con∣sists. The rest of the Building is so mean, that a Man wou'd never imagine it to be the Seraglio, that admir'd Palace of the Grand Signior. The prin∣cipal Entry is near Sancta Sophia, and exactly re∣sembles the Gate of an old paltry Town, without either Architecture or Ornament: Yet 'tis carefully guarded by the Capigi, who keep their Court of Guard under it, and sit on Benches of Stone. This Gate led us into a large Court, where on the right hand we observ'd the Apartments for the Sick, with large Matted Sopha's along the Walls, where the Diseas'd Persons are plac'd, and lodg'd as poorly as if they were in a Hospital. On the left hand are Magazines containing Arms for a Thousand Men, that in case of necessity the Grand Signior may arm his Domestic Servants for the security of his Person. But notwithstanding this Precaution, Ibrahim was Strangled, Mahomet Dethron'd, and Solyman Poi∣son'd, not to mention the Tragical Ends of so ma∣ny other Princes of the same Line, whose Guards cou'd not protect 'em from the fury of a Seditious

Multitude. From this Court we pass'd into ano∣ther, border'd with two large Portico's. The Grand Signior's Kitchens are on one side, which are not kept very hot at present, since he chuses to reside at Adrianople: Yet I observ'd some Persons preparing Pilo, Pasties, and Fish, for the Women in the old Se∣raglio. On the other Side are the Stables, where there is Room and Accommodation for a hundred Horses. If your Curiosity be not satisfy'd with so imperfect an Account of so famous a Place, you must consult those who were permitted to enter farther.

Very near this Seraglio, and within the same En∣closure, there is another Edifice, commonly call'd The Old Seraglio. 'Twas erected by one who was no Lover of ill-contriv'd Structures, I mean Constantine the Great; and yet 'tis certainly a very ugly Mass of Building, surrounded with Walls of an unusual Heighth, without any Windows on the Outside. I will not undertake to justifie the Design of the Founder, tho' we may be allow'd to suppose that he had some secret Reasons for contriving it after this Manner. Besides I only saw the Back of it, and perhaps the Front may be more regularly built. Here the reigning Sultan shuts up the Wives of his Predecessours, who at their Entrance into this Place may bid adieu to all the Pleasures of this Life.

The present Sultan's Wives are lodg'd in a Third Seraglio, which is join'd so close to that of the Grand Signior, that he may pass from one to the other with∣out exposing himself to the Rain. I need not tell you with what severity they are guarded by the white and black Eunuchs, who never permit 'em to enjoy the least Shadow of Liberty. All the Relations of Tra∣vellers are full of Stories and Reflexions on this Sub∣ject, and therefore instead of repeating the Obser∣vations of others, I shall only add, that 'tis a Capi∣tal

Crime to look upon one of these Women. I saw a Turk at Galata whose Father was strangl'd for so dangerous a piece of Curiosity, under the Reign of Amurath, whose Memory will not be easily forgot∣ten in the Places that were subject to his Dominion; for he was certainly one of the severest and most vi∣gilant Princes in the World. 'Twas his daily Cu∣stom to walk in Disguise thro' the City, that he might be an Eye-witness of the Care that was ta∣ken to put the Laws in Execution; and he seldom or never walk'd the Rounds without leaving some headless Monuments of his Justice: besides he fre∣quently observ'd what was done in the City from his Seraglio, by the help of some excellent Prospe∣ctive-Glasses, with which the Venetians had presented him. One day as he was making his usual. Observations, he perceiv'd a Man in Pera, who had also a Prospe∣ctive-Glass, and was viewing the Sultanesses, who were walking in the Garden. Immediately he call'd a Capigi, and commanded him to go with four Mutes to such a House, and hang a Man, whom he describ'd, at the Window; which the Capigi ex∣ecuted, and Amurath saw him and was satis∣fy'd.

From the Account I have given you of the Sul∣tan's Palace, you may reasonably conclude that the great Officers of the Empire are but meanly lodg'd. Most of their Houses are inclos'd in a kind of Park, which contains a Garden, and a large Court bor∣der'd with Stables on one side, and Kitchens on the other. The finest I have yet seen is that of Haly Bassa, Kaimacan of Constantinople, whither I attended the Ambassadour, when he receiv'd the first Audi∣ence of that Minister, which was perform'd with the following Ceremonies.

First march'd sixteen Livery-Men, in Red Coats, with a broad Gold Galoon on the Seams, the Steward walking before 'em. They were follow'd by the

[illustration]

The Audience which the Caimakan of Constantinople gave to M^r. de Chateau-neuf the French Ambassador P. 169

Valets de Chambre, Cooks, Clerks of the Office, and Commissaries of the Chancery. After 'em walk'd six Interpreters, follow'd by as many Janisaries; and at last came the Ambassadour, accompany'd with his Se∣cretary, and Chancellour, the most considerable Persons of the Nation marching some Paces after him. In this Order he walk'd to Tophana, where he embark'd with all his Train, the Kaimacan having sent Boats to attend him, and a very fine gilt one for himself, with twelve Rowers. There were a considerable number of French Vessels in the Port, who saluted him with all their Guns. At his Arrival on the o∣ther side he found his Led-Horses very richly har∣nass'd, with Silver Bridles, and Embroider'd Foot-Cloths trailing on the Ground. Immediately he mounted his Horse, and all his Attendants falling in∣to the same Order, as before, he rode thro' the City to the Kaimacan's House, who sent his Kiaia, to re∣ceive him at the Foot of the Stairs, accompany'd with two other Officers, who led him under the Arms to the Chamber of Audience, where there was a kind of Chair with a Back, plac'd for him on the Sopha: Immediately after the Kaimacan enter'd, and sate down upon the Sopha over-against him. At first the Discourse was only general; but after some Compliments to the Kaimacan on his late Promoti∣on, they began to talk of the present Posture of Affairs: and that Minister insisted very long on the Grand Visier's happy Success in Hungary, informing the Ambassadour, that in less than two Months he made himself Master of the Cities of Nissa, Widin, Semendria, and Belgrade it self, which he took by Storm after a Siege of eight Days, and put the whole Garrison to the Sword, except 300 Men who made their Escape. He related also the particular Circumstances of Count Tekeli's Engagement with 4000 Transylvanians, who were entirely routed, scarce 200 of 'em escaping, and General Heuster

himself being taken Prisoner. The Ambassadour receiv'd this agreeable News with the highest Marks of Joy, and reply'd in these very Words, That it seem'd there was a Sympathy between the two Empires, since while the Emperour his Master was triumphing over their common Enemies beyond the Rhine, he had the Plea∣sure to be inform'd of the Glorious Success of his High∣ness's Arms in Hungary; adding, That this was cer∣tainly an Effect of that entire Correspondence which had united the two Empires for so long and uninterrupted a Series of Years. The Kaimacan answer'd, That he had taken delight in making the same Observation, and that he lookt upon it as a happy Presage. Then the Am∣bassadour took occasion to intreat him to employ all his Interest for the Establishment and Confirmation of an Union that was of such high Importance for the Happi∣ness of both the Empires; for 'tis plain, said he, that the Interests of both our Emperours are the same. They can∣not break the Union that links 'em together, without weakening themselves: and it ought to be acknowledg'd as a Fundamental Maxim, That the Grandeur of the Emperour my Master confirms that of his Highness, which reciprocally contributes to the Glory and Safety of my Em∣perour. The Kaimacan reply'd as one who was of the same Opinion; he spoke several times of an Alliance between the two Emperours, adding, That 'twou'd not be the first time the Ottoman and French Armies had carry'd on the same Design, and even obey'd the same Orders. But the Ambassadour declin'd to re∣turn a positive Answer, because he could not rely upon the Fidelity of all that were present, and perhaps I was one of those whom he doubted most, for they begin already to suspect my Catho∣licism.

Then putting some odoriferous Matter into a Censer, they perfum'd his Head and Cloaths, hold∣ing a large Cloth or Napkin above him to keep the Fumes from evaporating. After this Ceremony was

over, they brought Coffee, Sherbet, and at last the usual Presents, consisting of Twenty five Vests, which were laid before the Kaimacan. The first was for the Ambassadour, and the rest for his twenty four At∣tendants, who were call'd in Order by his Steward.

According as our Names were call'd, we stept forwards to receive the Vests from one of the Kai∣macan's Officers, who first spread it before the Am∣bassadour, and then put it on our Shoulders. These Vests are such inconsiderable Trifles, that the pre∣senting of 'em seems rather an Affront than a Mark of Esteem; for they are not worth above three Half-Crowns a-piece. They are made of Cotton, branch'd with a little Silk of several Colours, after a very odd and phantastical Manner. The Ambassa∣dour's was not finer than the rest, only spangl'd here and there with a little paltry Gold. I'm inform'd that this Custom of presenting Vests is an usual Ce∣remony among the Turks, proceeding from their extream Desire of Presents, which is the usual Foun∣dation of their Kindness and Affection: for 'twou'd be reckon'd as ridiculous, as 'tis in vain, to endea∣vour to acquire their Friendship, or convince 'em of the Sincerity of our Love by Protestations and other Marks of Affection, if they be not accompany'd with Presents. I can assure you that all my Turkish Acquaintances are of the same Humour: and this Custom prevails so universally that every one is ob∣lig'd to comply with it.

After we had receiv'd our Vests, his Excellency re∣tir'd with the Kaimacan to a private Chamber, to discourse of secret Affairs. In the mean time we had leisure to view the Apartments of the House, which were all open'd to us; tho' we might have contented our selves with the Sight of one, since there is no difference between 'em; and therefore 'twill be an easie Task to gratifie your Curiosity with a Description of 'em. You must not expect

a long Catalogue of rare Pictures, magnificent Beds, large Looking-Glasses, silver Tables, curious Hang∣ings, and other rich Furniture: for there are no such Ornaments in the House. Four bare Walls, a Plafond or Cieling, and a Sopha are all the Riches and all the Beauty of their Rooms. 'Tis true their Plafonds are very fine, and painted all over with Cochineel, Gold, and Azure: their way of designing is peculiar to themselves, but its Oddness does not make it less pleasant; 'Tis a kind of Moresco, the Figures entering into one another, and appearing the same on all sides; and it must be acknowledg'd that the Turks have very fruitful Inventions, for, I believe, there are a Million of several Sorts of Fi∣gures. The middle of the Plafond is usually richer than the rest, both in Gilding and Painting; but 'tis impossible to make you comprehend either of 'em, unless you had seen something of a like Na∣ture, which, I believe, you never did, since there is not one Room in France thus adorn'd. The Walls are also cover'd with the same sort of Paint instead of Hangings: and as for the Sopha, I cannot repre∣sent it better than as a Bench about two Foot high, reaching from one end of the Chamber to the other, on the Side next the Street, under the Win∣dows, which begin a Foot higher in the Wall: 'tis always between ten and eleven Foot broad, and co∣ver'd with Turkish or Persian Tapestry; besides which there are Mats laid along the Wall, 4 or 5 foot broad, cover'd with Cloth or Velvet, and over these there are large Cushions, stuff'd with Hair or Wooll. These Cushions in great Mens Houses are either curiously embroider'd, or made of a rich Cloth of Gold: and 'tis here that the Turks sit night and day cross-legg'd like Taylors, smoaking Tabacco, and drinking Coffee, without any other Diversion than playing with Shells, and sometimes a Game at Tric-trac, or the Goose. But since I shall have occasion hereafter to

speak of their Recreations, I shall at present only give you an Account of their Houses.

While the Ambassadour was discoursing in private with the Kaimacan, I went down to the Garden, which is not above 100 Paces long, and 60 broad: the Walks are gravell'd, border'd in some places with Orange-Trees, and in others with Fruit-Trees. The square Beds in the Garden are not cut and bor∣der'd like our Flower-Plots, but only separated with Divisions, and fill'd with Flowers, of which the Turks are very curious. In the Middle there is a pretty large Bason of Water, from the Centre of which there rises a little Marble Spire, gilt and painted after the Turkish Manner, and cast∣ing forth Water thro' four Pipes. There are also two other Basons at each End of the Garden, which are more remarkable for the peculiar Odd∣ness of their Structure, than for their Beauty. They are fram'd almost like Centinels woodden Boxes, only they are not quite so deep, and there is a kind of Chapiter on the Top, adorn'd with Gilding and Figures. The Inside is cut into the Form of Scal∣lop-Shells, on which the Water falling makes a great number of little Cascades that run into a Bason, and form another large Cascade, the Water of which is receiv'd into a Sort of Tub or Vat, and from thence thro' several Holes, runs into little Ca∣nals about the Breadth of four Fingers, cut out of a large Marble Pavement that reaches from these Fountains to the Bason in the Middle of the Gar∣den. The Pavement was contriv'd on purpose for the Conveniency of cutting out these little winding Canals, which forming a vast number of regular and very pleasant Figures, fall at last into the great Bason. This, Sir, is the best Account I can give you of the Kaimacan's Garden, which may serve for all the rest I have hitherto had occasion to see, since there is no great Difference between 'em. As

for the House, 'tis a great Mass of Building, the Front consisting of a high and broad Stair-Case divi∣ded by two Galleries that reach from one end of the House to the other; and the whole is dawb'd over very coarsly with a sort of Red and Green Paint. Under the Stair-Case there is a large square Gate, that leads into a Court surrounded with Gal∣leries like the first, and supported with woodden Pillars. Here the Kaimacan's Servants lodge, whose number may amount to fifty or sixty, all cloath'd after the same manner, with a Cafetan or white Coat, that covers 'em from Head to Foot. From thence I went to view the Stables, which in this Country is usually the best furnish'd part of the House; and in these I observ'd forty good Horses. After I had satisfi'd my Curiosity with a View of all that was remarkable below, I went up again to my Companions, and sate drinking Sherbet, till the Ambassadour came out. The Kiaia accompany'd him to the Foot of the Stairs, where he receiv'd him at his coming, with the same Officers that sup∣ported him under the Arms; but the Kaimacan came not out of his Chamber, which in my Opi∣nion was a little too stately for a Person of his Cha∣racter. The Ambassadour did not pull off his Hat, either at his coming in or going out: not that he slighted the Kaimacan, but out of pure Compliance to the Manners of the Turks, who never uncover their Heads before Persons for whom they have the least Respect. I had forgot to tell you, that when he enter'd the Chamber all the Kaimacan's Servants bellow'd out thrice, Is alla Malec allec is alla: and at his Departure he was saluted with ano∣ther Hollow; which is the usual Welcome and Fare∣well of the Turks to Persons whom they intend to treat with particular Marks of Honour. I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Constantinople, Aug. 1690.

LETTER XIV.

SIR,

MY unexpected stay in this City has procur'd me the splendid, or rather the mortifying sight of Sultan Solyman's Triumphant Entry into Con∣stantinople, at the end of so successful a Campaign. The Turks are so puff'd up with the advantageous Progress of their Arms this Summer, and both their Contempt and Hatred of the Imperialists are so ex∣treamly heighten'd that they look upon 'em as dead Doggs, ripe for destruction, and flatter themselves with the Chimerical Hope of seeing Vienna once a∣gain Besieg'd the next Campaign. The sight of so great a quantity of Booty which was brought from Hungary, and is sold almost for nothing in this City, has swoln their Pride to such a height, that they usually treat Christians with intolerable Insolence, except the French, whom they call their Friends and Allies. When they accidentally meet a Frank, whom they know not, their first Question is, What Country∣man are you? and if he answers,

* 1.5 Sono Francese, immediately they embrace him, and patting him gent∣ly on the Shoulder, reply,† 1.6 Siamo Fratelli.

The Inhabitants of this City have not seen these many Years a more Magnificent Ceremony than the late Entry of the Grand Signior, which was made in the following Order: First march'd 200 Capigi, or Keepers of the Grand Signior's Gate, with tapering Caps, and a Cone, or sharp-pointed piece of Cloth hanging down to their Noses; they were Com∣manded by the Capigi-Bachi. After 'em came the

Sorlaques, or Foot-Guards of the Body, consisting of, old pick'd Soldiers who expect Preferment: They wore tuck'd up Gowns, carrying their Bows in their Left-hand, and Quivers on their Shoulders: Their Caps were of Cloth, like those of the Capigi, but instead of a Cone they were only adorn'd with Plumes of Feathers. A Thousand Janisaries march'd after 'em, Clad in Red, with Zercola's on their Head, made of a large piece of Felt a Foot broad, which falls back on their Shoulders, with a Cone or sharp point like that of the Capigi: Every one of 'em carri'd a great Reed or Cane, eight foot long and three round, with an Ivory Ball on the top, and their Aga walk'd before 'em.

The Janisaries were follow'd by 500 Chiauox's which are Horse Guards, the last of 'em carrying the Standards and Colours that were taken from the Imperialists. They had large Caps or Turbants a∣bove two Foot in circumference: They were very well Mounted, and led by the Chiaoux-Bachi. After 'em march'd the Mutefaraca's, who are a sort of Officers that never go to the War, almost like our Reformades. Next came the Kisler Aga, accompani'd by the White and Black Eunuchs, who walk'd on each side of him, to Guard the Sultanesses, who rode in eight very fine Coaches, but cou'd not be seen by reason of a piece of Silk with which the Glasses were cover'd.

After them appear'd the unfortunate Prince Ma∣homet IV. who, with his two Sons, was plac'd in a Coach close barr'd like a Prison-Window, and guarded by twelve Chiaoux's. Immediately after came the Sultan's Great Officers, to the number of above 200 Persons, all richly Cloath'd in Embroi∣der'd Vests, and Turbants, enrich'd with precious Stones: Their Horses were also adorn'd with Silver Bridles, and very fine Foot Cloaths, either Embroi∣der'd, or of Cloth of Gold, trailing on the Ground.

The seven Visiers of the Bench brought up the Rear of this Magnificent Troop, and were follow'd by the Mufti, who was mounted on a white Horse (but not so stately as the rest) and attended by four Officers on Foot. Then came the Selictar carrying the Grand Signior's Sword bare. At last the Sultan himself ap∣pear'd seated in a triumphal Chariot, open on all Sides, and cover'd all over with silver-gilt Plates, enrich'd with counterfeit Jewels, which neverthe∣less cast a great Splendour. The Chariot was drawn by Eight spotted Horses, cover'd with Red Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, and adorn'd with gilt Buc∣kles. The Inside of the Chariot was lin'd with Vel∣vet of the same Colour, embroider'd also with Gold; and in it there was a little Sopha, with a large Cushi∣on of a very rich Stuff, on which the Sultan sate. This place of the Chariot was cover'd with a very rich Canopy, like that of a Coach, and rais'd so high, that the Grand Signior might be easily seen by the Spectatours. He is about fifty Years old, of a severe Aspect, and no very fine Shape. He wore a large Turbant, almost like that of the Chiaoux's, adorn'd with two very magnificent Aigrets, enrich'd with precious Stones: His Vest was of a very fine Stuff adorn'd with Pearls, but much inferiour to the Coat that cost Fifteen Millions, which the King puts on when he receives Ambassadours. About and af∣ter the Chair march'd a hundred Aga's on Foot, with their Officers and Commanders; and in the last place came Three hundred Spahi's.

At Night there were great Illuminations in the Seraglio and all the Mosquees: and the People ex∣press'd their Joy by Feasts, Bone-fires, and re∣peated Shouts, crying, without Intermission, Long live our Emperour, the Restorer of Monarchy, and the Prophet's Darling.

Monsieur de Chateauneuf, who omits no occasion of pleasing the Turks, gave 'em so many and so expen∣sive

Marks of the Share he took in their Joy, that his Charge cou'd not be much less than theirs. His Palace was almost cover'd with Garlands of Myrtle; and at Night almost all the People of Con∣stantinople flock'd thither to admire the Beauty of his Fire-Works. The French Ships signaliz'd their Zeal and Affection to the Ottoman Interest, according to the Or∣ders they receiv'd from the Ambassadour, both by the Illuminations of which their Masts and Ropes were so full, that they seem'd at a distance to be on fire, and by repeated Discharges of their Artillery. Be∣sides the Ambassadour prepar'd a splendid Feast for several Turkish Lords; among whom was the Prince of Moldavia: There were two Tables for twenty Persons each, those who sate at one being enter∣tain'd by himself, and those at the other by his Se∣cretary Pelleran. The Guests were regal'd with all imaginable Magnificence both at Dinner and Sup∣per; and two Fountains run Wine in the Court, all the while the Feast lasted, whither all the Rene∣gado's, Greeks, and Mariners, came to drink the Healths of the Two Glorious Emperours, Lewis and Solyman, ever Great, and ever Victorious, pronoun∣cing the Word Vivat, according to the Custom of the Country, with loud and repeated Acclamations, which is the same thing with the English Huzza.

But among all those Expressions of Joy, that which scandaliz'd me most, was a Pyramid of Fire, forty Foot high, which burnt in the Court till the Morning. For there was an Illumination on the Top of it representing on one Side the Arms of France, and on the other, a Shield charg'd with Three fiery Crescents. The Turks were extremely pleas'd to see with how much Ardour the French espous'd their Interests; and since that time have look'd more favourably upon our Countrymen than before. 'Tis true that they have been of late so much oblig'd to France, that they might justly be reckon'd the most

ungrateful People in the World, if they were not sensible of so many good Offices. For without in∣sisting on the powerful Diversion made by our For∣ces on the Rhine, which has contributed so effectu∣ally to the Success of their Arms; they have, to my certain Knowledge, receiv'd Supplies of Money from them, which, without pretending to deter∣mine the precise Sums, I can assure you amount to a very considerable Value; for it has been observ'd in Ships that brought 100000 Piasters, there were not 20000 for the use of the Merchants.

The Ambassadour has the most convenient way that cou'd be desir'd, to receive the Sums that are design'd for secret Service: for all the Money that comes over to the Merchants must be carry'd to his House, where the Owners must afterwards receive it; so that People are not at all surpriz'd, when at the Arrival of a Ship they see Chests of Gold and Silver carry'd to him. And besides, who knows whether the King sends not over Engineers, Gun∣ners, and Officers: I have seen several Persons of that Character here, and I my self refus'd a Place which Monsieur de Chateauneuf wou'd have given me in a Company of French Granadiers, consisting of 200 Men, who are publickly levy'd in this City.

This puts me in Mind of a remarkable Accident that happen'd lately at Thessalonica. Two Engineers arriv'd in that Port, pretending to be French Gen∣tlemen, and that they travell'd purely out of Cu∣riosity: the Consul receiv'd 'em with the highest De∣monstrations of Civility, and invited 'em to lodge at his House; for 'tis the usual Custom of all the Consuls in the Levant to shew a great deal of Respect and Kindness to Strangers that seem to be Persons of Note or Quality. But having other conceal'd De∣signs, they address'd themselves two Days after their Arrival, to a Greek that wore a I••ruggoman's Cap, and pray'd him to carry 'em to the ••assa, and to in∣terpret

for 'em, without acquainting the Consul. The Greek, who was glad of any Opportunity to earn Money, embrac'd their Proposal very chear∣fully, and accompany'd 'em to the Bassa's House, where they declar'd their Profession, and offer'd him their Service, but without intimating in the least that they were willing to renounce their Religion. The Turkish Officer receiv'd 'em very favourably, and promis'd to recommend 'em to some Person at Constantinople, who wou'd quickly procure 'em an Em∣ployment suitable to their Inclinations. Thus they return'd to the Consul's House very well satisfy'd with the Bassa's Civility: but the Interpreter's Con∣science not permitting him to have a Hand in assi∣sting the declar'd Enemies of his Religion, he disco∣ver'd the whole Intrigue to the Consul, without con∣cealing the Arguments and earnest Intreaties they us'd to oblige him to Secresie. Immediately the honest Consul believing that 'twou'd be an acceptable Piece of Service both to God and the King, to pre∣vent the wicked Designs of his Guests, order'd 'em to be apprehended, and sent back to France in Fet∣ters. 'Tis plain that his Intentions were good, and that he could not be justly blam'd for taking that Course; but he quickly found, to his Cost, that they had more potent Friends than he imagin'd, for after they had made their Complaints, he receiv'd a severe Reprimand from the Marquess de Seignelay, and was in danger of being turn'd out of his Office.

The Number of Deserters that come over to the Turks is almost incredible. There are at present so many of 'em in the Service, that there might be several compleat French Regiments in the Ottoman Army. I know that such a Design has been several times propos'd to the Ambassadour by the Grand Vi∣sier, Kopergli Oglou, but the little Regard he still pre∣serves to the external Rules of Decency, has hither∣to

to restrain'd him from giving his Consent. Neither do I see any Reason why the Turks shou'd be offen∣ded at his seeming Niceness, since 'tis not at all pre∣judicial to their Interest: For while their main Design is serv'd, they may very well dispense with a needless Piece of Formality, and the French Soldiers fight as well when they are dispers'd among the Ottoman Troops, as if they were all united in a distinct Body. That which allures 'em to come over in such vast Numbers, is the favourable Treatment they receive at their Arrival: about eight Days ago I saw a hundred and fifty of 'em march thro' this City, with Drums beating, and Colours flying, I mean a Piece of White Cloth, which in this Coun∣trey, as well as upon the Sea, is reckon'd the Ban∣ner of France. Prisoners of all Nations, except the Germans, enjoy the same Priviledges, provided they claim his Majesty's Protection. 'Tis true there are several pretended Deserters, who carry on their hid∣den Designs under so specious a Disguise: Nor have the Turks yet learn'd Circumspection, tho' they have been so often deceiv'd. I cou'd tell you twenty Stories of this Nature, but I shall content my self with relating one Instance, to convince you that the Emperour has as good Spies as the King of France.

About the End of the last Year, immediately af∣ter the Death of the Ambassadour Girardin, one Vanel came over as a Deserter to the Grand Visier's Army in Hungary, pretending to be a French Gentle∣man, who was taken Prisoner on the Rhine, and forc'd to serve as a Voluntier in the Emperour's Ar∣my, which he left, assoon as he found a favourable Occasion to make his Escape. But not contenting himself to remain as a Spy in the Army, he had the Confidence to assume the Character of Agent of France, till the Arrival of the Ambassadour whom the King had nam'd. The Grand Visier see∣ing

a Man whose very aspect seem'd to answer for his Honesty; and besides, perceiving that he made a great Figure, was so far from suspecting him, that he own'd him as Agent: So that during the whole Winter he manag'd the King's Affairs with as much Authority as if he had been empower'd with a Commission from Versailles. 'Tis true, he seem'd to be very jealous of the Honour and Interest of the Nation; but in private he endeavour'd to per∣swade the Grand Visier that the only way to preserve the Ottoman Empire, was to hasten the conclusion of a Peace with the Emperour; and in the mean time he found out ways to acquaint the Court of Vienna with all the Transactions at the Port.

This cunning Spy had the Art to play so difficult a Game with so much dexterity and success, that he gain'd the esteem and affection both of the Grand Visier and Sultan, from whom he receiv'd considera∣ble Presents. And even the French had at last so good an Opinion of him, that they scrupl'd not to address themselves to him on all occasions, as they wou'd have done to an Ambassador. So that he thought his Credit so well established, that he might boldly expect the arrival of Monsieur de Chateauneuf, who was coming to perswade the Visier to continue the War against the Empire. Vanel went to meet him a days Journey beyond Sophia, and told him, that since Fortune had engag'd him in the Ottoman Service, during the Vacancy of the Embassy, he thought himself oblig'd by the Honour he had to be a French Gentleman, to do what Service he cou'd to the Nation, as he had actually done for several Months, and was ready to give him an exact ac∣count of all his Proceedings. Afterwards he went with the Ambassador to the Visier, who gave him so favourable a Character, that Monsieur de Chateauneuf either did not, or seem'd not to doubt of his Zeal and Affection to the King's Service. However, 'tis

probable, that he was not entirely satisfi'd with his Conduct, and that he wrote to several Places for better Information concerning him. For having one Evening receiv'd a Pacquet in Vanel's Presence, that subtle Spy fearing that the Intelligence might concern him, adventur'd to peep over the Ambassa∣dor's Shoulder, while he was reading the Letters, and perceiving that they gave a very suspicious Ac∣count of him, he resolv'd to prevent the danger that threaten'd him by a sudden Flight. Next Morning he rose as soon as the day began to appear, and went immediately to one D' Etanchot, a French Captain in Count Teckely's Troops, who was his intimate Friend: He accosted him with a Melancholic Air, and in∣treated him to carry him to Count. Teckely's Army, where he had some business to dispatch that requir'd all possible expedition. D' Etanchot reply'd, That he was ready to serve him, and that he would im∣mediately go along with him after he had receiv'd the Ambassador's Orders. Vanel, who dreaded no∣thing more than the discovery of his Design, con∣jur'd his Friend not to insist on that piece of For∣mality; and to engage him the more effectually to comply with his Desires, he offer'd him 1000 Pi∣stoles, promising to give him as much more at the end of his Journey. D' Etanchot was extreamly sur∣priz'd at his Earnestness and Impatience, and per∣ceiv'd by the great Offers he made him, that the business was of greater Importance than at first he imagin'd: His Fidelity to his Prince was stronger than his Affection to his Friend, and at last he told him plainly, that he wou'd not go with him unless he wou'd suffer him to ask the Ambassador's Per∣mission before his departure. Then Vanel seeing himself discover'd, and fearing Torture more than Death, which he knew was inavoidable, lest he shou'd not be able to endure the extream violence of the Pain, without divulging his Secret, he resolv'd to be

his own Executioner; and suffering D' Etanchot to walk some paces before him, without speaking a Word, he pull'd a Pistol out of his Pocket, charg'd with three Bullets, and shot himself thro' the Head. His Friend surpriz'd at the unexpected noise, look'd back, and seeing him lie groveling on the Ground, and wallowing in his own Blood, run immediately to acquaint the Ambassador with the Tragical Ac∣cident, who at first cou'd not believe him, but af∣terwards suspecting him to be the Murderer, or∣der'd him to be secur'd: Then he went with several of his Servants, to the place where this unfortunate Person lay, and finding him still alive, tho' very weak, he ask'd him, How he was; Optimé, reply'd Vanel, for they us'd to discourse in Latin. Then the Ambassador enquir'd, who put him in that condi∣tion, I did, answer'd he: What mov'd you to such an act, reply'd the Ambassador; Because, said he, I was weary of Life. Afterwards the Ambassa∣dor ask'd him several Questions concerning the place of his Birth, and his design in coming hither, but cou'd not obtain any satisfactory Answer; and (which is hardly credible) he endur'd the most ex∣quisitely cruel Torments they cou'd invent, with∣out making the least discovery, and even was so little daunted, that while he lay under the extre∣mity of the Torture, 'Tis in vain, said he to the Ambassador, to torment me thus, you shall never know more than I have already told you. In short, he gave so many Marks of an invincible Courage and Re∣solution, that I cou'd hardly forbear comparing him to Socrates, or Minutius Scaevola, if I had not a natural reluctancy to praise Men of his Profession. Thus he died of his Wounds, and left no Papers of consequence, that cou'd discover his Intrigue: But the Ambassador and his Men seiz'd on ten or twelve good Horses, and above 25000 Livres in Gold that were found in his Possession.

I shall conclude this Letter with telling you, that I'm resolv'd to depart with the first fair Wind for Alexandria, in a Vessel belonging to Ciotad, Com∣manded by Captain Carbonneau, who is an old Sea∣man, and perfectly well acquainted with all the parts of the Mediterranean. But I'm afraid he will stand in need of all his Experience to bring us safe to our design'd Harbour; for this is the most dangerous season of the Year. However, I have stay'd so long in Constantinople, that, tho' the Voy∣age were more hazardous, I cou'd willingly ad∣venture on't.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Constantinople, Nov. 1690.

LETTER XV.

SIR,

STorms and Contrary Winds are the main, and al∣most the only Objects of a Traveller's Fear at Sea: And Yet I reckon my self extreamly oblig'd to the Bad Weather we met with about eight days ago, since it forc'd our Captain to stop at the fa∣mous Island of Scio, where we still continue.

The Greeks, and in general all the Christian In∣habitants, enjoy so many Priviledges, and retain so many Marks of their ancient Liberty, that if I did not sometimes see a Turbant, I shou'd almost forget that I am still in Turkey. The whole com∣pass of the Island does not amount to 100 Miles; yet there are above 200 Churches in it, and at

least 30 Monasteries belonging to the Greek and Latin Christians, who perform their several Rites without the least disturbance. They are suffer'd to walk in Procession about the Streets, as in France; tho' there is nothing more odious to the Turks than that Ceremony: And which is still more remark∣able, the Greeks, who, in all other parts of the Otto∣man Empire are reputed Slaves, live here under the Protection of a Magistrate, who has the Title of Consul. This Happiness, which ought to be so much the dearer to the Greeks of this Island, be∣cause 'tis peculiar to themselves, is only a continu∣ation of the Favours bestow'd on 'em by Mahomet II. when he made himself Master of Greece. For the Sciots perceiving that 'twou'd be in vain to resist an Enemy who had lately taken Constantinople from the Palaeologi, and was still Victorious in all his At∣tempts, resolv'd to mitigate his Fury by a volun∣tary submission, and own'd themselves his Subjects, perhaps before he thought of Attaking 'em. Mahomet was so well satisfi'd with this Mark of their Affection, that he granted 'em several advantageous Privi∣ledges which they still enjoy. For the Turks are very Religious observers of their Promises to their own Subjects; tho' they scruple not to violate Treaties concluded with Neighbouring Princes, e∣specially Christians, and Heretical Mahometans, such as the Persians, of whom the Turks have almost as bad an Opinion as the Roman Catholicks have of Pro∣testants; because the Persians embrace the Doctrine of one Haly, who pretended to reform the Maho∣metan Religion, as Luther and Calvin have Reform'd the Christian.

At that time the Island was possess'd by the Ju∣stiniani, with the Title of a Principality, under the Protection of the Genoese, who were then Masters of many fine Countries in Natolia, as it appears by the Escutcheons and Arms of the Republic,

which are still to be seen almost at every end of a Field.

There is but one City in the Island, and that a very small one, tho' it has eight Gates. The Streets are broad enough for Coaches; and the beau∣ty of the old Houses is a sign of the richness and splendor of their ancient Possessors. The Castle is not much less than the City, and Commands both that and the Port: Yet some Years ago the Marquis Du Quesne had the Courage to attack some Pirates who retir••d under its Walls, and fir'd above fifty Broad-sides into the City, because the Bassa made a shew of resisting him. This attempt caus'd so great a Consternation among the Inhabitants, that their fears continue even after the Marquiss's Death, and they still tremble when they hear his Name mention'd. The French are very proud of this Expedition, tho' 'tis certain they have no great reason to boast of it, since it cost the Nation 100000 Crowns, which Fabre, the French Agent, pay'd to the Grand Visier. This was, in my Opini∣on, a sufficient reparation to the Turks; and there was no Honour got by so vigorous an Action, but that which is due to the Memory of the brave Man that perform'd it.

'Tis equally difficult to enter the Port, and to get out of it, as our Captain has found to his cost: For the charge of maintaining the Ships Company amounts at least to 60 Livres a day, and I believe he wou'd willingly give 30 Louis d' Ors to be at Sea again.

The Government of Scio is a very considerable Post, and the Bassa is oftentimes advanc'd to the Dignity of Grand Visier. 'Tis not above a Year since Kopergli Oglou was remov'd from this place, and made Visier after the Death of Ismael. He has un∣der him a Kiaia, a Kady, a Vaivoide, and a Receiver of Customs, as all other Bassa's have. The Last of

these Officers has more Employment here than in most other places, by reason of the Mastic that grows in this Island, better and more plentiful than in any other part of the World. There are above a Thousand Chests of it gather'd every Year, each of which contains Three Hundred Weight, and the total Value amounts to above 200000 Crowns. But the Inhabitants are not much enrich'd by so considerable a Trade: For they are not only oblig'd to pay one half of the Mastic by way of Tribute, but must sell the rest at a very low rate to the Re∣ceiver of Customs. 'Tis a white odoriferous Gumm, that runs in the Spring out of little holes which are made in the Bark of a small, weak, and twining Shrub that creeps along the Ground, as Vines wou'd do if they were not supported.

I have not hitherto had occasion to see any re∣markable Church in this Island, but that which is call'd Niaomai: 'Tis a very ancient Building, and adorn'd with a piece of Mosaic Work, like that of Sancta Sophia. I will not trouble you with the Story of its Miraculous Image, since all these Legends are only the same Tale, repeated with some small alte∣rations. The Greeks believe and maintain these Impostures with a great deal of Zeal; and even the Turks who abhorr the Christian Religion, worse than Magic, are sometimes cheated by 'em: For when they hear that one of the Saints cures such a Di∣stemper, they procure Masses to be said, and pre∣sent Candles with as much Devotion as the most Su∣perstitious Greek. I shall take this occasion to re∣late an accident that happen'd not long ago in this place; and perhaps you will not think your time ill imploy'd in reading so odd and diverting a Story. You have doubtless heard of St. Anthony of Padua, who is the Padrone Singularo of all the Ita∣lians, and has acquir'd so great a Reputation of working Miracles, that tho' he was a declar'd

Papist, and more than that, a Monk of the Order of St. Francis; the Greeks have plac'd him among their Tutelar Saints, and sing Kyrie Eleison's to him with as much Devotion as to St. Polycarp himself. He has a Magnificent Chapel in this place, and in it a Wooden Image, which is very well painted, gilt, and crown'd, and wants neither He nor She Vota∣ries in abundance. His Miracles are the only sub∣ject of the common Talk. Some own themselves oblig'd to him for Husbands, and others for Wives; sometimes he heals a broken Leg, and saves others from Ship-wrack; and, in a word, I know not one Person here who has not receiv'd some Marks of his Favour. 'Tis true, he's apt to grow sullen, and woe be to the poor Suppliants when little St. Anthony takes the pet, for he'll e'en let 'em cry their Eyes out, without deigning to take notice of 'em: However, there is no Disease without its Re∣medy, and a few smart Lashes about the Shoul∣ders usually cures him of the Spleen. But when the Distemper is very stubborn, and the Dose of the Whip proves ineffectual, they either turn him out of his Lodging, and make him lie abroad in the Wind and Rain, or dip him ten or twelve times in Water, with a great Stone at his Neck, which always pro∣duces the desir'd effect, and makes the little Gen∣tleman as Complaisant as they can wish. One of the Turks in the Castle, who had ventur'd all his Stock on Board a Saique, and was afraid of losing it either by Storm or Piracy, resolv'd to steal St. Anthony, of whom he had heard so many Wonders, and either by fair or foul means to make him preserve his Goods. He waited some time for a convenient opportunity to put his design in execution; and one day perceiving that there were none in the Church but himself, he hid the miraculous Image under his Vest, and carri'd it away undiscover'd. As soon as he came home he set it in the most

honourable Place of his House, adorn'd it with Flowers, and kept two Wax Candles perpetually burning before it; addreffing himself to it every day with a great deal of Reverence, and humbly acquainting it that his whole Estate was on board the Saique; and that the Loss of that wou'd en∣tirely ruine him and his Family. Thus he conti∣nu'd as long as he might reasonably hope that the Saique was safe; but when the time was expir'd, in which he expected to hear of its Return, he took away the Flowers and Candles, and began to treat the Image very roughly, beating it every day, and threatning a worse Usage, if he shou'd find that it had neglected his Saique. Thou infamous Chri∣stian, said he, think'st thou to mock a Musulman, whose Slave thou art not worthy to be? By Mahomet, if thou dost not restore my Saique, I'll beat thee to Pieces.

In the mean time both the Greeks and Romanists were extremely griev'd for the Loss of their Saint: and their Consternation was the greater, because they cou'd not imagine him to be stoll'n away, since he was only made of Wood. The Cordeliers had not the least Share in the common Affliction; but since they have an admirable Faculty of improving every thing to the best Advantage, they declar'd publickly that the Saint was not able longer to en∣dure the Coldness of the Peoples Devotion, and had therefore withdrawn his Presence from among 'em. And even an old Father dream'd that S. Anthony ap∣pear'd to him, and said, My Son, I have left this City, because I was no longer able to be a Witness of the Crimes that are daily committed in it, and the Want of Love to God, and Zeal to his Service. The good Man related his Dream to the People, and exhort∣ed 'em to recall the Saint by Prayers, Vows, and above all, by a great number of Masses. At last the Turk heard of the safe Arrival of the Saique with

his Goods, so that thinking himself oblig'd in Con∣science to release the Saint out of his Prison, he carry'd him back with a great deal of Honour, and told the whole Story. The Image was very joyfully receiv'd by the Christians, who look'd upon this as a New Miracle; which re-kindl'd their Devotion to such a Degree, that it can never be more ardent than 'tis at present: the Turk also gave 100 Piasters, as an•• Acknowledgment of the Favour he had re∣ceiv'd, and the Fathers order'd the Money to be cast into a silver Chain, with which they fasten'd the Image, to prevent its being stoll'n hereafter: for they consider'd that People are always apt to follow a bad Example, and that they might perhaps miss their Saint when they shou'd have most need of him.

This Accident has convinc'd me of a Truth I cou'd never believe before, I mean that Supersti∣tion may bear such an absolute Sway in the Minds of those who are under its Power, that even Turks and Christians may join together in some Rites of Devotion. I confess I was so far from giving Cre∣dit to Relations of this Nature, that I could hardly believe my own Eyes on a like Occasion at Lampe∣dusa, where we touch'd in our Voyage to Malta. But since I am now of another Opinion, I shall take this Occasion to acquaint you with an Observation I made there, which I durst not mention so long as I thought it impossible.

There is in that Island a little Chapel dedicated to the Virgin, in which there is an Altar, and a Coffin with a Turbant laid upon it, which is usually call'd Mahomet's Tomb. Both Turks and Christians have so great a Veneration for this Chapel, that they never pass it by without leaving Money, Victuals, or some other Offering. At our Arrival we found two large and fresh Pastaiques, a Sequin of Gold, some silver Aspers, and small Coin of Malta, to which our

Captain added a French Piece of Three-pence half-peny. Our Pilot told me that these Offerings were de∣sign'd for the Relief of poor Slaves, who oftentimes escap'd thither from Malta and Afric; adding that the Place was so Sacred and Miraculous that none but Slaves durst take any of these things from the Altar; or, if they did, that they could not possibly get out of the Island. He related also several In∣stances of these Miracles, but all his Arguments and Stories could not hinder me from eating one of the Pastaiques; for the Weather was very hot, and you know that those who are not accustom'd to the Sea are usually very desirous of Fruit. To return to Scio.

I went t'other day to see a Place call'd the Schools of Homer, tho' according to all probability there were never any Schools in it. I incline rather to believe that 'twas formerly a Place where Sacrifi∣ces were offer'd to the God Pan, or some other Ru∣ral Deity: for I saw nothing but a square Altar cut out of a Rock, on the Shore, with some decay'd Basso-Relievo's on the Sides, among which you may distinguish the Representation of an Oxe, Wolf, Sbeep, and Rabbet, besides some other Beasts which are less distinct. Not far from thence I saw a paltry Vil∣lage, where they assur'd me Homer was born: but Smyrna pretends a better Title to the Honour of be∣ing the Birth-place of that great Man.

I observ'd nothing else remarkable in this Island, except their Manner of Living, which is extremely free: for they give and receive Visits, make Enter∣tainments, and the Women sit at the Doors of the Houses, and walk with Young Men to the Fields, with as much Liberty as if they were in France. Be∣sides they are of a very sociable Humour, and any Frenchman, who is Master of a tolerable Stock of Wit, may quickly find a Mistress, and even some∣times an advantageous Match in this Place. For

'tis the highest Ambition of the Women of this Island to marry a Frank; both because they are na∣turally of a freer Temper than the Men of the Country, and are not subject to the Grand Signior, nor consequently pay any Avanies, Taxes, or Im∣posts; which are two very considerable Advan∣tages.

This is the only Island in the Levant, where the Custom of wearing long Garments does not prevail: for the Sciots retain'd the Fashion us'd by the Franks, after their Subjection to the Turks. They still use Doublets or Wast-coats, Breeches, and Shooes; and besides they wear their Hair long: but we have chang'd so many Fashions since that time, that they who have still kept that which was then in use appear very ridiculous at present. Their Hats have broad Brims, not cock'd up, and tapering Crowns, somewhat resembling a Sugar-Loaf: the Sleeves of their Doublets are wide and open, but close at the Wrist: their Breeches are open below, edg'd with Ribbons, and their Drawers appear under 'em: their Shooes have large open Ears, and are sharp-pointed at the Toe, as they were usually made in our Coun∣try about Twenty Years ago. The Womens Habit is not different from that which is us'd by the Com∣mon People in Bretagne, Maine, Normandy, and some other Parts of France. For they wear a kind of short Cassock, fasten'd with a Lace before, and over that another of Silk Stuff, of which there is a great deal made in the Island. This Cassock, which the Maids of my Country wou'd call a Waste-coat, reaches not below the Middle of the Thigh, and the Sleeves which are not very long, are tied up a little below the Bending of the Arm, for the Con∣veniency of wearing Silken Gloves, which are also made in Scio, and are not unhandsome. Besides they have a kind of Petty-Coat, in which there are (I believe) thirty Ells of Stuff, for 'tis pleited

quite round, except on the Fore-part, and these Foldings are all of an equal Depth, and sew'd to∣gether: this Petty-coat is so short, that it hides not above one half of their Legs: and they are always very careful to wear fine and tight Stockins, lest that which appears shou'd give a Man an ill Opi∣nion of what is conceal'd. In their Head-Dress they differ both from the Franks and Levantines; for it consists only in a Piece of Cloth wrapp'd about their Heads.

There are in this Island several Families that pre∣tend to Nobility, and even some that draw their Pe∣digree from the Justiniani; but their Education, and Way of Living, is so unsuitable to their high Birth, that 'twou'd seem altogether incredible, if it were not attested by all the Inhabitants of the Island.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Scio, Decemb. 1690.

LETTER XVI.

SIR,

WE set said from Scio on the 20th. of the last Month, and two Days after were in the Height of Stanchio, a little Island, famous for the Birth of Hippocrates, and the celebrated Apelles; and for a Tree of such prodigious Bigness, that its Shadow is large enough to cover 150 Men. I cannot give you a more particular Account of that Island, since we stopt not there, but kept on our Course till we

arriv'd at Rhodes on Christmass-Day: Instead of a large Description of this Island, you must content your self with an Account of what Observati∣ons I could make in the narrow space of half a Day.

The Island of Rhodes is a hundred Miles in Com∣pass: 'Twas taken from the Saracens by the Knights of S. John of Jerusalem, on the Day of the Virgin's Assumption, Ann. 1309. and retaken by Solyman II. Emperour of the Turks, in the Year 1522. by the Treachery of Andrew d' Amaral, one of the Knights, and Chancellour of the Order; who aspiring to the Dignity of the Great Master; and being disappoint∣ed of his Hopes to attain it, by the Election of Monsieur de Villiers l' Ile Adam to that Office, was so enrag'd, that he shot an Arrow into the Enemy's Camp, with a Letter discovering the only Place where the Town cou'd be successfully attack'd.

The City is little, but extremely strong, both by rea∣son of its Situation on a Rock, and the great number of Bastions and Towers that command one another very advantageously. The Great Masters House, and the Inns of the Seven Languages remain still entire, and the same may be said of the Church of S. John, tho' the Turks have turn'd it into a Mosquee, for they have not so much as defac'd the Images of our Saviour and the Virgin, represented over the Door in Bass-Relief. Tho' I had not known that this Island belong'd formerly to the Knights of Mal∣ta, I shou'd have easily discover'd it by the great number of Inscriptions, and Scutcheons of the Or∣der, that are over the Gate of the City, and al∣most every where else. And besides there are so many other ancient Monuments of the same Na∣ture, that I never saw so vast a number of In∣scriptions in so small a Spot of Ground.

'Tis related in the History of the Order, that this Island was formerly infested by a horrible Dragon,

above thirty Foot long, who abode in a Cave not far from the City, and made such a dreadful Ha∣vock all around, that there was no Safety in the Country. The Story adds, that his very Breath in∣fected all the Neighbourhood of his Cave, and that his Skin was so hard, that no Arrow cou'd pierce it, but that he was kill'd at last by a Knight of Pro∣vence, call'd Dedoat de Goson. I always suspected the Credit of this Relation, but mine Eyes have now convinc'd me of the Truth of it: for the Monster's Head is on one of the Gates of the City towards the Land, and I had time to take a full View of it. I cannot represent it better than by comparing it to the Head of a Hog; only 'tis longer and bigger, and hath no Ears; the Jaws are very large, and arm'd with long and sharp Teeth.

Since I am not over-fond of believing any thing that seems strange and unaccountable, I must beg leave to persist in my Incredulity, concerning the Famous Colossus, which was formerly the Glory and Ornament of this Island.

'Tis true, Strabo, Pliny, and several other Grave Writers, seem to believe this Story: but Authors as well as other Men, take Pleasure in relating Won∣ders. This was the usual Custom of the Ancients, especially Pliny and Herodotus, who have stuff'd their Writings with such lofty Fables, as the Reader may easily perceive by a transient View of their Works. And besides when an Author of any considerable Reputation in the Learned World relates a Matter of Fact, 'tis always confirm'd by the Testimony of those who follow him. Nevertheless in this Case, the Opinions of Authors are very different; for Chares according to some, erected the Colossus, where∣as others ascribe that Honour to Lacches: some with Strabo relate, that 'twas seventy Cubits high; and others affirm that its Height amounted to Eighty; so that the Story is at the best doubtful and un∣certain.

But to examine the Matter more narrowly, the largest Computation of the Heighth of the Colossus will hardly amount to what is requir'd by the Circum∣stances of the Story: for the Breadth of the Port of Rhodes, between the opposite Shores, where the Feet of the Colossus are said to have been fix'd, amounts to 324 measur'd Feet, so that the whole Figure must have been 500 Foot high. And besides how is it possible to conceive that a Mass of such a Prodigious Big∣ness cou'd be cast. I know some pretend that 'twas built by Pieces, and that it consisted only of Stone lin'd with Brass; but this Opinion as well as the other is clogg'd with unsurmountable Difficul∣ties, as 'twill appear from the following Reflexions.

The tallest of the Egyptian Pyramids, which are justly reckon'd among the Wonders of the World, cou'd not be rais'd above 520 Foot high; and the Tower of Strasburgh, which has not (and perhaps never had) its equal in the World, does not exceed 560 Feet. Now these admirable Buildings have sufficient Bases or Foundations, to support the Weight of the Su∣perstructure; whereas this enormous Figure must have been four times bigger above than below, without reck'ning the Arms that hung down, or at least one of 'em which carry'd a Lanthorn, and (if the Story be true) could not be made but by the Architects whom Aesop sent to King Nectanebus. I will not insist upon the equal poising of so great a Mass, which was both absolutely necessary, and ex∣tremely difficult in this Case; but shall proceed to more obvious Reasons. 'Tis said that after this Co∣lossus was overthrown by an Earthquake, it remain'd where it fell till the Year 656, or according to others 952, which is a new Controversie; and that the Saracens broke it to pieces, and sold the Brass to a Jew, who carry'd it to Antioch. And here we meet with another Variation in the Relations of Au∣thors; for tho' most are agreed that 900 Camels

were loaded with the Brass, there are some that re∣duce the Number to 800, but neither of these Opi∣nions is well grounded.

Now, Sir, I wou'd gladly be inform'd where the Co∣lossus fell; and they who maintain the Truth of this Story, will perhaps find this to be a more puzzling Question than they imagine. For considering the Situation of its Legs, they cannot pretend that it fell towards the Land, and consequently they must acknowledge that it tumbl'd into the Sea, where it cou'd not lie without stopping the Mouth of the Harbour; nor cou'd that be done without ruining the Trade of the City, on which all its Riches de∣pended. But these necessary Consequences of this Supposition, are directly contradicted by History, which assures us, that Rhodes was a very flourishing City, and that its Port was as good and as much frequented, as ever, at the Arrival of the Sara∣cens.

But this is not the only Absurdity that destroys the Credit of the Story. Tis well known that a Camel's Burthen never exceeds five or six hundred Weight, especially when the Journey is considerably long: and how then cou'd 900 of those Animals carry away so prodigious a Quantity of Brass. For you will find by Calculation, that every Foot in the Heighth of the Colossus, (reckoning 'em one with another) weigh'd above 3000 Pounds; since 'tis computed that a square Foot of that Metal, containing an Inch in Thickness, weighs above fifty Pounds. Now 'tis plain, that the very encompas∣sing of the ••ody of the Colossus wou'd require much more than sixty such Pieces, which according to the above-mention••d Computation, amount to 1500 Pounds, without reckoning the Overplus; and by the same Proportion you may guess at the Quantity of Brass that wou'd have been necessary for lining the whole Figure.

This Colossus puts me in mind of the extravagant Proposal made to Alexander the Great by an Archi∣tect call'd Dinocrates, who undertook to build a City on Mount Atlas, and to cut it into the Shape of a Man, with a Cup in his Hand disgorging a River. Cou'd ever a more ridiculous Chimaera enter into a distemper'd Brain? But the Ancients cou'd easily swallow the greatest Absurdity, and there are still too many profess'd Adorers of those fabulous Wri∣ters, who defend all their Lies and Mistakes with a stupid Obstinacy. As for my part, I confess my Faith is so weak on such Occasions, that I cannot forbear suspecting the Truth of the Story of the Rhodian Colossus. At least since I have so much Com∣plaisance to the Authors that attest it, as to keep my self from denying it absolutely; I hope they will give me leave to think that 'twas somewhat smaller, less wonderful, and situated in another Place, than they imagine: for a much less incredi∣ble Bulk will suffice, if we suppose that 'twas plac'd at the Mouth of the Harbour for Galleys. However I dare not venture to assure you that I have seen the Place where the Colossus of the Sun stood, but only where 'tis believ'd it stood: for thus I shall be sure to keep close to the Truth, which I have al∣ways made the Standard of my Relations.

We stay'd part of a Day at Rhodes, and set Sail the same Night with a fair Wind; but a sudden Change of Weather oblig'd us to stand in to the Road of Cyprus.

Cyprus is an Island almost of the same Bigness with Rhodes. The Air is so sweet, clear, and tem∣perate, that the Weather is perpetually fair; at least I can assure you, that during the little time we spent in it, I cou'd not perceive the least Sign of Winter. It produces great Abundance of Sugar, Cotton, and delicious Wine: besides 'tis the best Country in the World for Hunting, and Provisions

are so incredibly cheap, that, as the French Consul as∣sur'd me, the greatest Lover of his Belly cannot spend Forty Piasters a Year in Eating and Drinking. The Town is neither large nor neat, inhabited by a Medley of Turks and Christians, as all other Places under the Grand Signior's Dominion. I saw a Man in it that had four Arms, two on each Side, one above the other, but he cou'd only use the lower. The 27th. in the Morning we set Sail, and arriv'd at Alexandria on the 8th. instant towards Noon.

The Land lies so extremely low, that tho' the Sun shone very bright, we cou'd not discover the Coast, till we were very near it. At the same time we perceiv'd a Saique making towards us, with a Pilot and four Officers of the Custom-House. Per∣haps most of us wou'd have willingly dispens'd with the last of our Visitants; but we stood very much in need of the Pilot's Help, for both the Road and Harbour are extremely dangerous, by reason of the lurking Rocks that can hardly be avoided without the Assistance of a Seaman of the Country. At last having cast Anchor very happily, I went a-shore in the Saique. As I pass'd by the Custom-House, I was somewhat surpriz'd at the unusual Exactness of the Officers; for they search'd me all over, and even thrust their Hands into my Breeches, to know whether I had brought any Gold or Silver, which pay a considerable Impost to the Grand Signior, com∣monly call'd Gold-Duty. But I was much more sur∣priz'd at Night, when they came to shut us up like so many Prisoners, as they do every Night in the Week, and on Fridays at Noon; by reason of a foolish Prophecy, that foretells the Conquest of the City by the Franks. For since 'twou'd be very trou∣blesome to shut as many Doors as there are Franks in the Town, all those who bear that Name are oblig'd to lodge in certain spacious Hans, call'd Fondies, which having but one Gate or Door, are

quickly secur'd. The French, English, and Dutch have each a distinct Han, where they live, without medling in the least with one another's business, either in Peace or War. The Merchants who re∣side here are for the most part only Factors to an∣swer the Commissions of their Correspondents in Christendom: Nor can this City be reckon'd as a place of Commerce, unless by the bye, for no con∣siderable Caravans come hither, and Aleppo is pro∣perly the Seat of Trade, and Residence of the Consuls.

The famous City of Alexandria, admir'd in for∣mer Ages for its Extent and Beauty, is now a wretched heap of Cottages, that seem to have been built on purpose to insult over the deplorable fate of the Ruins on which they are founded. There cannot be a more lively Instance of the frailty of human Grandeur, than those rich Fragments of Marble, Porphyry, and Granite, that are every where to be seen mixt with Earth, Wood, and Stone. The whole City is as it were buri'd under the Ruines of overturn'd Palaces; and 'tis impossible to be∣hold that magnificent Rubbish, without reflecting with a certain Melancholic Pleasure on the ancient Splendor of these celebrated Structures. But since I have reason to believe that such general Remarks wou'd not satisfie your Curiosity, I shall proceed to give you a more particular account of the admi∣rable Remains of Alexandria.

It appears by the Walls (which are not so rui∣nous as the Houses) that the compass of the City amounted to Ten Miles: But they are infinitely more remarkable for their Beauty and Magnifi∣cence, than for the largeness of their Extent. They are 20 Foot thick throughout, and join'd with a certain Cement as hard as Stone: From space to space they are flank'd with great square Towers, which are so strong and massive that they

appear like so many Castles; and within each Tower there are Cisterns, Halls, and a sufficient number of Chambers to lodge at least 100 Men. But, which is still more convenient and useful, there are Casemates under the Walls round the whole City, in which, together with the Towers, there was room enough to lodge 50000 Men, who were always ready either to appear in Arms on the Walls in case of necessity, or to march upon occa∣sion to any place in the City. The Walls are also surrounded with good False-brays, which are still entire; and if you add to these a broad, deep, and well-lin'd Ditch, I think there cou'd not be more desir'd in that Age, for the security and defence of any City.

Among all the ruinous Beauties of Alexandria, there is none more remarkable than Caesar's Palace. 'Twas certainly a very large Building, and if I may be allow'd to judge of the rest by the Front which remains still entire, I may venture to assure you that 'twas a noble and compleat Work. I observ'd also several Columns of Pophyry and spotted Green Marble, which heighten'd the Idea I had already conceiv'd of its Magnificence. Near these stately Ruines there are others equal to 'em in all respects, and no less rich in Porphyry and Granite, which are said to be Fragments of the Ancient Palace of the Ptolomies: Besides a great number of others as admirable as ei∣ther of the former. But 'tis so long since the City was demolish'd, and the confusion is so great at pre∣sent, that 'tis impossible for the most curious Anti∣quary to distinguish the Foundations of so many Palaces and Temples. The only entire pieces that have escap'd the common Fate of the rest, are the Column of Pompey, and four Obelisks of Granite. 'Tis said the first was erected by Caesar, to the Me∣mory of Pompey: Some think 'tis a kind of Marble, but others incline rather to believe that 'twas built

of melted Stone, cast in Moulds upon the place. The latter Opinion seems most probable, for there is not the least piece of that Stone to be found in any part of the World, and the Pillar is so prodi∣giously big and high, that it cou'd hardly be erected without a Miracle. I know 'tis alledg'd by those who believe the Story of the Rhodian Colossus, that the Ancients had the advantage of admirable Ma∣chines to raise such bulky Pieces: But I shou'd reckon my self extreamly oblig'd to these Gentle∣men, if they wou'd show me any probable reason why among so great a variety of Egyptian Monu∣ments of Antiquity there is not one of Marble, and by what an accountable accident the Stone call'd Granite, which was then so common, is now grown so scarce, that the most curious Inquirers into the Works of Nature cannot find the least Fragment of it; that was not employ'd in ancient Structures. And even tho' I shou'd suppose with my Adversaries, that the Quarries out of which this Stone was dug were by degrees so entirely exhau∣sted, that there is not the least Footstep of 'em left; and that Nature her self has lost so much of ancient Vigour and Fecundity, that she is not able to produce new ones: I may still be allow'd to ask why Granite was only us'd in Obelisks or Columns of a prodigious bigness: For if it were really a sort of Stone or Marble, I see no reason why we might not find small pieces of it, as well as of Porphyry, and other precious kinds of Marble. These reflecti∣ons, in my Opinion, may serve to confirm the Hypothesis of those who believe that all these ad∣mirable Monuments were actually cast in a Mould: And if they wou'd take the pains to view this Co∣lumn attentively, they wou'd soon be convinc'd by the testimony of their own Eyes, that 'tis only a kind of Cement, compos'd of Sand and calcin'd Stone, not unlike to Mortar or Lime, which grew

hard by degrees. I will not pretend to determine by what Artifice those ancient Workmen kept the Cement from yielding or sliding till the Pillar was compleated; tho' perhaps it might be probably alledg'd, that they made a Mould of Stone or Wood, besmear'd on the Inside with some fat or unctuous Substance, to hinder the Matter from sticking to its cover; and that after the Work was finish'd, and the Column almost dry, they broke the Mould that preserv'd the regularity of its Fi∣gure, and kept it from falling.

This Column is 80 Foot high, and 24 in com∣pass: 'Tis plac'd on a Marble Pedestal eight Foot square, and crown'd at the top with a Chapiter of the same Granite, of which the Pillar consists. I know not what Opinion you may have of the An∣cient Engines, but for my part I must confess, whether I consider the weight or bulk of so vast a Mass, I find it equally impossible to conceive that it cou'd be rais'd by the strongest and best contriv'd Machines that ever were Invented. The four Obe∣lisks are also of Granite, and adorn'd with Hiero∣glyphic Figures in Relief, like that at Rome: Some of 'em are standing, and the rest fall'n.

I cannot comprehend the reason that mov'd the Founders of Alexandria to chuse such an uninhabi∣table Country for the Seat of so stately a City. The Heat is so insupportable in the Summer that it makes all the Inhabitants as Tawny as they can pos∣sibly be, without being quite Black. And, which is still more incommodious, they have no Foun∣tains to qualifie the scorching Heat of the Climate: For the only Springs in Egypt are two that are at Cairo, of which I may perhaps give you an account, after I have seen 'em. To supply, in some measure, these natural defects, the Natives have contriv'd subter∣raneous Buildings, which are no less admirable than the Palaces that formerly adorn'd Alexandria. For

there are vast Cisterns under Ground, Vaulted and under-prop'd with strong Marble-Pillars that sup∣port the weight of the Houses, and of the City, which is wholly built on these Caves. All the Cisterns are border'd with Streets, as if they were Houses, so that they seem to form a subterraneous City.

This puts me in mind of the Roman Catacombs, tho' they are much inferiour in beauty to the A∣lexandrian Cisterns: For the former are narrow, low, and unadorn'd; whereas the latter are spacious, enrich'd with Marble, and in some parts with Por∣phyry: These Cisterns were fill'd with Water at the overflowing of the Nile, by a large Canal call'd Khaalis, which still brings Water from the River, for the use of those few Inhabitants that are left in the City. The Canal is border'd with Gardens, which are not beautiful, tho' they contain a vast number of very large Orange, Citron, and Limon-Trees.

If you reflect on the usual Custom of the Romans, to imitate the Egyptians in every thing, you will find your self oblig'd to acknowledge that 'tis at least a probable conjecture, that the Catacombs of Rome were built after the Model of certain large Caves, without the Walls of this City towards the Palace. These subterraneous Vaults are fifteen Foot square, and eight or ten Foot high: And there are Tombs in the Walls cut out of the Rock, like those in the Roman Catacombs, but more artificially contriv'd, and rank'd in better Order, in which there are many entire Skeletons, tho' tis perhaps above 2000 Years since they were laid there. The Entry of the Caves is very low and narrow, for you must creep into a little hole, and slide several paces downward before you come to the Vaults.

This Country is Inhabited by a medley of se∣veral Nations; natural Turks, Moors, Arabs, Greeks,

and Jews. The Arabs are generally Free-booters, infesting the Roads, and rifling all the Passengers without Mercy, so that 'tis extreamly dangerous to Travel without a numerous Company. Yet there are some of that Nation who live in the Cities, and are more Civil than their Country-men in the Fields: But they all pretend to be Magicians, and are so intoxicated with such Chimera's, that one wou'd almost think they were seiz'd with a sort of Epidemical Madness. They have several ways of Divination; for some of 'em pretend to Inspiration, others Prophecy by Visions, and there are some who throw Beans into a Bag, and after they have coun∣ted 'em, return answers to those who consult 'em. Among all these Fortune-Tellers, those who Divine by way of Vision, are reckon'd the most skilful, and are fewest in number: As for the rest, the Streets are full of 'em. I have heard several Instances of their Predictions, both in Christendom, and in this Countrey, without giving Credit to any of 'em, because they were for the most part only second∣hand Stories: But I'm extreamly puzl'd what to think of an account I had from the Master of our Ship, for my Author is a Man of Honour, and part of the Matter of fact is attested by all the French-men in Alexandria. The Story is this.

Captain Carbonneau, Master of the Ship, call'd St. Augustin, bound for this City, was entrusted at Marseilles with a Bag of 200 Piasters of Sevil, which he receiv'd without counting 'em, and oblig'd him∣self to make good the Summ. At his Arrival he deliver'd the Bag to the Person to whom it was directed, who told the Money immediately, and finding 50 Piasters wanting, refus'd to receive it, and entred an Action against the Captain for the Overplus. In the mean time Carbonneau made a diligent search on Board his Ship, to discover who had stoln the 50 Piasters; for he suspected his

Clerk and Surgeon as the only Persons who had en∣ter'd his Chamber: But finding that all his Inquiries were unsuccessful, he resolv'd to consult an Arabian Sooth-sayer, who was of the Visionary Tribe, and re∣puted very skilful. After some time spent in Cere∣monious Grimaces, the Arab told him, that he saw a Man, whose Person he describ'd, tell 150 Piasters into a Bag of strip'd Ticking, and afterwards tye it up. The Captain perceiv'd that these Circum∣stances agreed exactly to the Bag and the Person who gave it him; but not being entirely satisfi'd, he entreated the Diviner to tell him positively, whe∣ther there were only 150 Piasters put into the Bag, or 50 of 'em afterwards taken out. After some new Ceremonies, the Sooth-sayer told him, that he saw the same Person endeavour to put 200 Piasters into the Bag, which not being large enough to hold them all, there remain'd 20 that cou'd not be put in for want of room. 'Tis plain then, added he, that the compleat Summ neither was nor cou'd be put into the Bag: And if you make the Expe∣riment, you'll be convinc'd of the truth of what I say. Nor was he mistaken, for 'twas found up∣on trial, that the Bag was not large enough to contain 200 Piasters, and Carbonneau's Adversary was so honest as to put a stop to the Action. This accident made a great noise among those of our Nation; and the Captain was so extreamly sur∣priz'd at his Fortune-Teller's Skill, that some days before his departure, he went again to consult him concerning the Success of his Voyage. The Arab answer'd, that he saw neither Fight, Ship-wrack, nor Arrival, but only four Mariners, whom he describ'd, carrying Fire in their hands; and there∣fore advis'd him to have an Eye upon 'em, and to prevent any accidents that might happen in his Ves∣sel. Six days after the Captain having put out to Sea, and intending to set Sail the next Morning,

the four Seamen, whom the Arabian represented, smoaking Tabacco between the Decks, set Fire to some Bales of Wool that were part of the Lading, and the Ship was entirely consum'd.

The Arabians were formerly very Learned, espe∣cially in Medicine, and our European Surgeons have found very useful Secrets in their Books: But at present they apply themselves wholly to Divination, which, in their Opinion, is the only sublime Sci∣ence. They are perfect Strangers to the knowledge of Religion, and their only Trade is to Rob Pas∣sengers: Nevertheless, it must be acknowledg'd to their praise, that they kill none but Turks, and these only when they are disoblig'd by the Grand Signior. They are divided into Tribes, commanded by their particular Captains, who are all subject to a kind of Duke or Prince, whom they call Skeick el Kebir. They Encamp in the Deserts, where they spend their whole Lives; for when they have con∣sum'd the Grass in one place they remove to ano∣ther. They are lean and black; their Aspect is Grim and terrible: They are usually cloath'd with the Skins of wild Beasts, and feed upon Milk, But∣ter, Honey, and sometimes a little Camel's Flesh parch'd in the Sun-Beams, or Roasted in the Em∣bers: But when they go out on Parties to Attack Caravans, or private Travellers, they carry no other Provisions but a little Flesh, which they lay under 'em upon their Horse's backs till it grows hot and tender.

They have the best Horses in the World, for they are incredibly swift, and will ride a whole day without tyring. 'Tis the Custom of the Ara∣bians to Gallop perpetually, without stopping to Dine: At Night they tye their Horses to Stakes, and feed 'em with Milk, Flesh, and Wheat, as they do themselves. They esteem a good Horse above all things in the World; and to prevent Deceits,

they keep their Pedigrees in Writing. When they have occasion to sell or exchange a Horse, they produce his Genealogy, proving him to be lineally descended from such a Stallion and Mare of illu∣strious Memory.

This wandring Nation owes the preservation of its Liberties to the weakness of the Grand Signior, and of the Bassa's of Cairo and Aleppo, who not only connive at 'em, but gratifie the Sheck el Kebir with a Pension, which very much resembles Tribute; For upon the least delay of Payment, they burn and pillage the Country in so barbarous a manner, that I cannot give you a livelier Idea of the havock they make on such occasions, than by putting you in mind of the French Campaign in the Palatinate.

I have done with the Arabians, and shall in the next place proceed to give you a brief Account of the Turks that live in Egypt, before I finish my Let∣ter. They are so extreamly Superstitious, that when they go abroad in the Morning, if the first Person they meet be a Christian, they return im∣mediately, and having wash'd themselves, stay at home all the rest of the day; for they believe that some great Misfortune wou'd certainly befall 'em, if they shou'd venture to go abroad again.

Their hatred and scorn to all that profess the Faith of Christ, is extended even to the Franks, who meet with a thousand Indignities, which the Greeks themselves can hardly bear. For not to mention the Custom of Imprisoning us every Night, we are not permitted to appear on Horseback in the City, but are oblig'd to ride on Asses; and if a Frank were found taking a particular view of a Fortification, 'twou'd cost him at least 500 Piasters, and he might reckon himself very Fortunate if he escap'd with so mild a Correction. 'Tis still a more hainous Crime to enter into a Mosquee, and wou'd be punish'd with greater Severity: And therefore

I hope you will not expect that I shou'd acquaint you whether the Egyptian Mosquees are different from those of Constantinople.

I have already told you, that the Men of this Country are very black; but I'm inform'd, that the Women are not tann'd in the least with that Co∣lour, so careful are they to preserve their Com∣plexions, and to keep themselves out of the reach of the Sun. I cou'd tell you some very diverting Stories of the Alexandrian Women, if I were fully convinc'd of the truth of 'em. 'Tis true, my Au∣thors are very positive, but the Thing is so odd, that I dare hardly venture to relate it upon their Credit; and especially in this case, I shou'd be glad I cou'd speak as an Eye-witness. However, Sir, since the mentioning of the Subject may perhaps raise your Curiosity, 'twou'd be ill Manners to take leave of you without giving you some account of it.

I'm inform'd there are Schools here where Maids learn to give and receive the Pleasures of Love with more than ordinary delight. This pretty Art is taught by Women, who acting the part of Men, make their fair Scholars exercise the most lascivious Postures imaginable. Maids of Quality are in∣structed at home, and I'm assur'd that this is an Accomplishment which usually recommends young Ladies to the most advantageous Matches.

I intend to Embark to morrow on a Tartane of Marseilles, bound for Cairo. I'm extreamly afraid of the Mouth of Damieta, for they say 'tis very dan∣gerous.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Alexandria, Jan. 1691.

LETTER XVII.

SIR,

I Cannot express my Amazement at the sight of those stately Monuments that make Cairo the most admirable City in the World, and convince the Beholder of so many Wonders, that the ancient Kings of Egypt were the most powerful Monarchs in the Universe. We are usually fill'd with a high Idea of the Roman Grandeur, because we view it at a less distance: But how vastly inferiour are the Pantheon, Collieseum, Capitol, and all the other celebrated Stru∣ctures of Rome, to these Magnificent Sepulchres which have for so many Ages stood firm against all the Attacks of Time and Age, and piercing the Sky with their lofty Tops, seem to be Copies of the Tower of Babel. At least 'tis plain, that the Founders of these Egyptian Monuments were acted by the same Designs that mov'd Nimrod to erect that famous Tower. They saw that all things were subject to the irresistible Power of Fate, which de∣stroys in a Moment the most illustrious and potent Empires, and annihilates even the Memory of their Grandeur. Their Souls were too elevated to sub∣mit to the common Destiny of other Mortals; and the sublimity of their Courage inspir'd 'em with the noble and glorious Resolution of making them∣selves Immortal in spite of Death. This was the design of those Egyptian Hero's, and 'tis to their Heroical Ambition that we owe the Possession of these Wonders of the World. How often do I wish you had been an Eye-witness and Partaker of my Happiness, when I stood gazing on so many Beau∣ties that are not to be found any where else, and

might justifie the Curiosity of a Traveller, tho' he shou'd come from the remotest part of the Uni∣verse to admire 'em.

These Monuments are of several kinds, but there are none so admirably magnificent as the Pyramids, which are so highly celebrated by ancient Histori∣ans. Two of the three principal Pyramids are shut, the other which appears biggest is open: 'Tis seated (I mean the last) very near the other two, three Leagues from Cairo, if that name be confin'd to the New City, or two Leagues and a half, taking in the Old. 'Tis a vast artificial Mountain, compos'd of Free-Stones of different bigness; for we cannot suppose it possible, that there cou'd have been a sufficient quantity of Stones found exactly of the same Dimensions, for the building of so prodigious a Mass; but the smallest are a Foot thick, and two Foot long; some being three Foot thick, six long, and four broad. Its heighth amounts to 520 Feet, and the breadth of each Face to 682.

The Ascent consists of between 200 and 210 Steps. The Top appears like the point of a Spire to those that are below; but when they go up to it, they are surpriz'd to find a Platform 24 Foot square; and their Wonder is still encreas'd, when they ob∣serve that so large a space is pav'd only with 12 Stones; for 'tis hardly conceivable how Stones of that Bulk cou'd be rais'd to so vast a heighth. From thence you have the Prospect of Boulac, old and new Cairo, the Ruines of Memphis, the Moun∣tain and the Desarts of Egypt: But he who can look to the bottom of the Steps without Amaze∣ment, may justly boast of the strength of his Head; for my part, I must confess I was struck with so much horror when I cast my Eye downward, that I was hardly sensible of any Pleasure in viewing so great a variety of Objects. There were formerly Steps on every side, but Time that consumes all

things has so wasted some of the Stones, that in se∣veral Parts there are dreadful Precipices; and therefore Strangers dare not venture to ascend with∣out the assistance of Guides that are acquainted with the safest ways. At the bottom of the Pyra∣mid there is a heap of Sand that reaches to the six∣teenth step, where there is a little door, thro' which (after you have drunk a refreshing Cup) you may enter into a sort of descending Alley, 30 paces long, about three Foot and a half high, and of equal breadth, so that a Man cannot walk in it without bowing his Body extreamly. At the end of this Alley you must lie down upon your Belly, and creep thro' a little Wicket, which is even with the Ground, and brings you into another little Alley like the former, only in this you must ascend, whereas you descended in the other. This Alley ends in two others; that on the Right-hand has no inclination, and leads to a little Vaulted Cham∣ber 18 Foot long, and 12 broad. At the entrance into this Alley there is a very deep Pit or Well without Water: Some Travellers go down into it, but I did not follow their Example: For I thought I had already done enough to satisfie my Curiosity, by creeping thro' those Caves which are darker than Hell it self, and in all respects a fit Habitation for the Dead. Besides, they are so full of Bats that flutter about perpetually, and blow out the Candles, that 'twou'd be very dangerous to venture in without a Tinder-Box. Directly opposite to the last Alley, there is another which begins so high in the Wall, that we were forc'd to climb up to it; but to make amends for that inconveniency, 'tis much higher and broader than any of the rest. After I had walk'd 70 Paces, still ascending, I found a sort of Hall 32 Foot long, and 16 broad, pav'd with nine Stones, the length of which is equal to the breadth of the Room. The Walls are of

a very fine and precious kind of Porphyry; and at one end there is an empty Tomb of the same Por∣phyry, seven Foot long and three broad.

I went afterwards to take a view of the two other Pyramids, the least (and according to all ap∣pearances the most ancient) of which was formerly over-laid with Porphyry. 'Tis only 150 Foot high, and each of its Sides or Faces is 200 Foot broad. The common Opinion is, That 'twas Founded by a Young Woman call'd Rhodope, who was Aesop's Fellow-Slave in Egypt; and that the Munificence of her Lovers enabl'd her to build so vast a Work. The other is almost as great as the first; for its height amounts to 510 Feet, and the breadth of each Face to 630. These three Pyramids are of a quadrilateral Figure, and I observ'd the Ruines of an ancient Temple before each of 'em; for 'tis not at all probable, that there were ever any Palaces in that Place; and the huge Idol of Stone that stands very near those decay'd Structures, is, I think, an evident confirmation of the truth of my Con∣jecture. The People of the Country say, that 'twas heretofore famous for Oracles, and I believe 'tis no fabulous Tradition; for there is a very deep Hole in the Head of the Idol, where the Priests might lie conceal'd, and return answers to those who came to propose Questions. 'Tis a Colossus cut in the Rock, representing a Woman, and is 26 Foot high, tho' it scarce reaches down to her Bo∣som, so that 'tis one of the most monstrous Figures in the World.

Three hours Journey from thence there is a Vil∣lage call'd Sacara, in which there are Catacombs or Sepulchral Vaults, but of a different Contrivance from those at Rome and Alexandria. For these are distinct subterraneous Chambers, built of Free-Stone, without the least Communication between one another: There is an opening above, thro'

which you are either let down with a Rope, as into a Well, or must go down a Ladder, according to the various Depth of the Caves. They were here∣tofore full of the Bodies of ancient Egyptians, so skilfully embalm'd, that they were preserv'd entire, perhaps above 4000 Years, with their Epitaphs, Coffins, and curious and magnificent Dresses. The Coffins were enrich'd with Hieroglyphics, and the Figure of the Deceas'd in Relievo; and sometimes there were Idols and Jewels found in 'em. But the Curiosity of the Franks has at last exhausted 'em; tho' 'tis thought there are some that were never open'd, and that the difficulty of finding 'em pro∣ceeds from the Avarice of the Moors, who only know where they are, and keep the Price of such Rarities very high. Yet I made 'em let me down into two or three, where I saw some Pieces of Mum∣my, but so spoil'd, that 'twas impossible to preserve any of 'em.

This Place is so full of Pyramids, that I believe there are above a hundred; but they are not com∣parable to those I mention'd. Yet I observ'd one that wou'd be as big as the first, if it were finish'd: there are also ascending and descending Alleys in it, at the end of which there are three Rooms in dif∣ferent Places. I will not trouble you with a De∣scription of it, since the only remarkable Difference between it and the first, is, that this is only rais'd to half the intended Heighth, if I may judge by its Proportion to the rest, whereas that is compleatly finish'd.

On the other Side of the Nile, directly opposite to this Place, are the Ruines of the ancient City of Memphis, extended along the River, till you come overagainst Old Cairo. They are so confus'd at present, that I spent half a Day in viewing 'em, without finding any thing remarkable.

I confess, Sir, that in pursuance of the Niceties of an exact Method, I shou'd have made you ac∣quainted with the City of Cairo, before I had car∣ry'd you to visit the Rarities in its Neighbourhood. But I cou'd not forbear giving the first place to that which I most admir'd; and besides an Account of Cairo will be as useful and perhaps as acceptable to you at the End, as in the Beginning of my Let∣ter.

The Observation I made concerning the Variety of Opinions about the Extent of Constantinople, is equally applicable to this City, which is divided in∣to three Parts, Boulac, and Old, and New Cairo. Some Travellers scruple to comprehend these three Towns under one Name, because they are separated by Gardens and Fields: but if those Gentlemen were to write to an Inhabitant of any of these Di∣visions, they wou'd certainly direct their Letters to Cairo, and not to Boulac, &c. And 'tis as imperti∣nent a Piece of Nicety to make a Distinction be∣tween Places that are divided by so small a Distance; as 'twou'd be absurd and improper, according to that Opinion, to give the City the Title of Grand Cairo. But not to trouble you with more Arguments, I shall only tell you that I think fit to join all the three Parts together; and that in this Sense Cairo contains four large Hours Journey in Length, and twelve in Compass.

'Twas taken from the Soldans of Egypt, Ann. 1517. by Sultan Selim I. who put to death all the Mamme∣lucks with their Soldan: and since that it has been still subject to the Turks, who in all probability will not be soon nor easily driven out of it. 'Tis the Metropolis of Egypt, and the most considerable Bassa∣ship in Turkey: and since 'tis a City of a vast Ex∣tent, the three Parts that compose it are differently situated. Boulac is the Port of Cairo on the Nile, and is alone as large as Rennes in Bretagne, or the

Hague in Holland. The New City lies further in the Country, at the Foot of a great Hill, and the Old Cairo a little beyond it, on the Banks of the Nile. Thus the New City is depriv'd of the advanta∣geous Neighbourhood of the River, and receives all its Water by a Khaalis or Canal, like that of Alexandria. All the rest of the Cities of Egypt are also furnish'd with such Aqueducts, without which they wou••d be wholly destitute of Water. This is the Inconveniency, or rather the Misery of the Country; for the Heat is very troublesome during the Summer: and so much the more insupportable, because all the Ground is cover'd with Sand, which grows burning hot, and makes the Air so sultry, that one can scarce breathe in it. Judge, Sir, what a Pleasure 'twou'd be in that Season, to drink a Cup of cold and fresh Water; and yet the poor In∣habitants must content themselves with the nasty Puddle that has stood about a Year in the Cisterns, or (which is almost as bad) with the Water that is carry'd about the Streets to be sold in Pitchers made of Goats Skins, by the Moors. For the Khaa∣lis is dry for the Space of six Months, and begins not to be fill'd till the Month of August, when the Nile is almost come to its greatest Heighth. Then they cut the Dam or Bank, that kept out the Wa∣ter, which immediately gushes into the Canal, and continues to flow during the Encrease of the River, that is, till near the End of October, after which it decreases by degrees. The Day of the Opening of the Khaalis is observ'd in this City as a Festival, with extraordinary Marks of Joy: but since I have nei∣ther seen, nor am like to see that Ceremony, you may consult some other Travellers for an Account of it. The Khaalis passes thro' the New City, and fills a vast number of Cisterns and Basons for Gar∣dens. The Inundation of the Nile is the only Cause of the Fruitfulness of Egypt; for without that

'twou'd be one vast Desart, as those Parts are, which are depriv'd of that Advantage by reason of their Distance from the River. These Floods, which are occasion'd by the Melting of the Snow in the Moun∣tains, fatten the Soil more effectually than the best Dung in the World cou'd possibly do: and indeed those Spots of Ground that are wash'd by the Inun∣dation are admirably fertil. I cannot leave this Sub∣ject without taking Notice of the Vulgar Errour, That it never rains in this Country; for during the little time I have spent in it, I have observ'd some Showers; tho' I must confess it rains not so frequent∣ly here as in other Countries.

The Nile is very near as broad as the Rhine: it crosses the whole Country of Egypt; and during the time of its Inundation, it overflows for the space of two Months, all the neighbouring Fields, which only are inhabited, the rest of the Land being co∣ver'd with dry and burning Sands. It falls into the Mediterranean by two Mouths, about 80 Miles di∣stant. 'Tis famous over all the World for its Cro∣codiles, and it must be acknowledg'd that it contains a great number of very large ones, but they are neither venomous, nor so terrible as they are usu∣ally represented.

If I shou'd tell you that there are 23000 Mosquees in this City, you'd certainly laugh at my Credulity, that cou'd swallow such a monstrous Fable. How∣ever, Sir, 'tis held by all the Inhabitants as a most certain Truth; and they are no less firmly persua∣ded that there are as many distinct Quarters or Wards, containing several Streets each, according to which Computation there are at least 100000 Streets in the City. 'Tis true, they are extremely small and narrow, but I dare not positively assure you that there is such a prodigious Number of 'em, especially since I never counted 'em. 'Tis also said that when the Plague rages in this Place, it sweeps

away 10000 Persons a-day; nor do I think this Story so incredible as the other: for the City is ex∣tremely populous, and there is as great a Concourse of People at the Bazar or Market every Thursday, as at the most crowded Fairs in Europe. This Bazar is the only to lerable Street in Cairo, and the Besestin at one of the Ends of it is at least as fine and rich as that of Constantinople. At the other End there is a Market of Slaves, where a Man may be always accommodated with a pretty Girl, at the Rate of 100 or 150 Pi∣asters. All the Houses are of Wood, with Plat∣forms on the Top, after the Turkish Fashion: The Outside is as mean, as the Inside is said to be beau∣tiful. 'Tis true, I never view'd 'em within, and therefore will not desire you to believe that they deserve the last part of that Character; for it de∣pends entirely upon the Testimony of the Franks, who are guilty of an unaccountable Prejudice, in magnifying the Turkish Magnificence. This is cer∣tainly a very great and inexcusable Weakness; and I know not whether it is more unreasonable to ad∣mire all things or nothing. We ought indeed to do Justice to every thing that is either Good or Beauti∣ful: but I know no Reason that obliges us to extoll the most ordinary Beauty, or rather Deformity it self, especially in a Place that may justly boast of so many incomparable Wonders, among which I may venture to reckon the ancient and vast Castle of Cairo. 'Tis true, it may be said to be a mere Heap of inhabited Ruines: but these Ruines are ex∣tremely Magnificent, and suitable to the Glory and Power of Pharaoh, who is reputed to be the Foun∣der both of this Structure, and of the great open Pyramid. It stands directly in the Middle of the City, between the Old aud New Town, on so large and steep a Rock, that one wou'd think it was pur∣posely fram'd by Nature to secure and command Grand Cairo. 'Tis above two Miles in Compass, and

was formerly surrounded with thick Walls, like those of Alexandria; flank'd at the end of every hundred Paces with great and very strong Towers. It has four Gates which lead into a fine open Place, and from thence to several Streets; so that it seems rather to be a Town than a Castle. The Turks have profan'd these venerable Monuments, by disfigu∣ring 'em with their Cottages, which look like so many Rats-Nests. Some Parts of Pharaoh's Palace remain still to be seen: The Room call'd Joseph's Hall, is enrich'd with Gold and Azure, and adorn'd with thirty fine Columns of Porphyry. That of his Steward or Intendant, is not so entire, and is only remarkable for twelve Columns of Thebaic Marble, which are not much inferiour to the for∣mer in Beauty. But the entirest and most admirable Work in this Place, is the celebrated Well of Joseph. 'Tis cut or hollow'd in the hard Rock, a hundred and six Foot deep, of a square Figure, each Side containing eleven Feet, without reckn'ning the Stair-Case, which is seven Foot broad, and cut out of the same Rock. It turns round the Well, and consists of twelve several Windings, six of which contain eighteen Steps a-piece, and the other six, nineteen; so that the total Number of the Steps amounts to to Two hundred twenty two. The Stairs are so easie and commodious, that they make two Oxen go down every day to the Bottom of the Well, which is dry, and from thence to a little square Room, where there is a Spring, out of which they draw Water continually, by a certain Con∣trivance of Wheels hung round with Buckets, that discharge the Water into a Bason or Cistern in the midst of the dry Pit or Well; from whence 'tis rais'd up in Buckets fasten'd to Ropes, that are let down and drawn up again by the turning of other Wheels. Round the Stair-Case on the Inside there are Walls that serve instead of Rails, and secure

those that go down from falling. At the Bottom of the Well there is a Door on the Right-hand, and another on the Left, both cut out of the Rock: and 'tis commonly believ'd that one of 'em leads to the Red-Sea, and the other to the Pyramids. The first is impossible, for the Sea is above thirty Leagues di∣stant: but the second is not at all improbable, con∣sidering the great Works that were undertaken and perform'd by the ancient Egyptians, and the Care they took to dig subterraneous Passages to secure their Retreat in case of Necessity. 'Tis true, the Greatness of the Distance, and Hardness of the Rock cou'd not but make this Attempt very diffi∣cult; but after all 'tis not near so vast a Work as the Pyramids, and there must be some Passage that begins at this Place: for tho' the Doors are at pre∣sent wall'd up, 'tis plain they were design'd for some Use. You will not be surpriz'd at the Magnificence of this Well, nor wonder what made the Egyptians bestow so much Time, Pains and Cost on the dig∣ging of it, if you consider how precious and valu∣able Water is in this Country. For (as I told you in my last) there are but two Springs in all Egypt, This, and That of Maltharea, of which I shall give you some Account before I finish my Let∣ter. And it seems the Egyptian Monarchs were afraid that these two Fountains shou'd at last be dry'd up; for they took care to bring Water from the Nile in a very fine Aqueduct, beginning betwixt Old Cairo and Boulac, and reaching as far as the Castle. Not far from Joseph's Palace there is a dreadful Prison, consisting of several Dungeons cut out of the Rock. It bears the Name of the same Patriarch, because 'twas here, according to the common Opinion, where he interpreted the Dreams of the Bu••ler and Baker: if this Tradition be true, it must be acknowledg'd, that he was in a lamen∣table Condition, for this is certainly a very dismal Place.

Maltharea is a Place about a large League distant from the City, whither the Franks often walk to en∣joy the pleasant Shade of its fine Orange-Trees, and refresh themselves with its delicious Water. There is also a little Chapel in the same place, which, 'tis said, the Blessed Virgin chose for her Abode, when she fled to Egypt with her Son Jesus; but the Circumstances of the Story are so improbable, that it seems to be of the same Stamp with other fabulous Legends. For they pretend that while she liv'd in that little House, perceiving at a great distance the Men whom Herod had sent after her, and, not knowing where to flee, an old Sycamore burst open to receive her and the little Jesus, and closing again secur'd 'em from the Rage of their Enemies. Assoon as the Danger was over the miraculous Tree let 'em forth, and remain'd open ever afterwards; but 'tis extremely decay'd at present, and part of it is fall'n away. However I spent two Hours near it with a great deal of Pleasure; for the Sun shone very bright that Day, and the Verdure of the Myrtle, Orange, and Limon-Trees was extremely agree∣able.

There is another little Chapel in Old Cairo, where the Virgin resided for some time: and near that there are large Store-houses for Corn, which are thought to be the same that Joseph built when he laid up Provisions against the seven Years of Fa∣mine.

Thus, Sir, I have entertain'd you with an Ac∣count of some of the Aegyptian Rarities. 'Tis true, there are many other remarkable Monuments in this Country, that are worthy of a Traveller's Cu∣riosity; but the very Sight of those howling De∣sarts deterr me from undertaking a Journey that wou'd expose me to so many Dangers and Incon∣veniencies. Besides 'twou'd require a great deal of Money, and I begin already to perceive that I must

take more than ordinary care to Husband my Stock. I find also that the same consideration will not suf∣fer me to prosecute my design of visiting the Holy Land, tho' 'tis not without an extream reluctancy that I'm forc'd to deprive my self of the fight of a place which the Saviour of the World hallow'd with his presence. But the Journey is prodigiously chargeable, and I'm resolv'd to deny my self that satisfaction rather than to put my self in a conditi∣on that might oblige me to return to France. I in∣tend then to Embark on a Greek Saique, which in few days will set Sail for Smyrna, where, I hope, I may easily find an occasion for Venice.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Cairo, Feb. 1691.

LETTER XVIII.

SIR,

AFter a very troublesome Voyage that lasted a whole Month, I arriv'd at Smyrna, a City of Natolia, a hundred Miles from Scio, where you may remember I stay'd so long that I found Matter enough for a whole Letter.

Smyrna was formerly seated on two Mountains, separated by a pleasant Valley that divided the City into two Parts, one of which was not above a quarter of a League distant from the Sea. This Mountain is so high that you cou'd not go up or rather climb the steep ascent in less than a full quar∣ter of an hour: And on the top of it was a large

Castle fortifi'd both by Nature and Art; for besides the advantages of its Situation, 'twas surrounded with high and thick Walls, on which there was a Parapet embattel'd after the Oriental fashion; and certainly 'tis not easily conceivable how so many Stones cou'd be carry'd up so high. The Gate of the Castle is defended by two round Towers join'd to the Wall: And in the Stone-work of the Tower that stands on the right hand as you enter, there is a Figure of a Woman's Head and Neck, a Foot and a half high, which is said to represent a cer∣tain Amazon call'd Smyrna, who having Conquer'd the City, call'd it by her own Name, and built the Castle. The inside is a meer heap of Ruines, a∣mong which I observ'd a very fair Cistern twenty Paces long and twelve broad, Vaulted and sup∣ported by six fine square Pillars which are all entire. Besides, there is a little Chapel built like a Mosquee, but it seems not to be very ancient. This Castle commanded the City on one side, and the Port on the other; and from thence you have an unob∣structed Prospect of the Sea. 'Tis at present only Inhabited by a Turk with his Wife and Daughter, who is oblig'd to keep Watch, and give notice to the Merchants when he discovers a Vessel. De∣scending from thence we saw the Ruines of an Amphitheater, about which there are Ditches where the Lions were kept; and somewhat higher are the Niches where the Magistrates sate. 'Twas here that S. Polycarp, the first Archbishop of Smyrna was crown'd with Martyrdom. He was one of St. John's Disciples, and yet even then the Schism of the Greek Church was begun; for he was sent to the Pope to Negotiate an Accommodation, tho' with very little Success. The City was heretofore very large, as it appears by the compass of its Walls; for if any Man will give himself the trouble to take an exact view of their Ruines, as I have done,

he will be quickly convinc'd, that 'twas above twelve Miles about: And the Error of those who contract its Dimensions, is only an effect of their Carelesness.

There is a very fine Aqueduct still to be seen, which brought Water to the part of the City next the Sea. It reaches from one Hill to the other, and contains 300 Paces in length. In the same part of the Town there are very ancient Burying-places, which at present belong to the Jews: And adjoin∣ing to these are the Burying-places of the English and Dutch, where there are very magnificent Marble Tombs, enrich'd with fine Relievo's. This Place is call'd St. Veneranda, from the Name of a Greek Church, near which there is a Spring, fam'd for curing Fevers miraculously; tho' I'm confident its Vertue consists only in quenching the Thirst, which it does very effectually, for 'tis extreamly cold and clear, and may for that reason be reckon'd one of the Rarities of Smyrna, where the Water is generally bad.

This City was ruin'd in the time of Mark Anthony, who caus'd it to be rebuilt at the foot of the Hill on the Sea-side, where it stands at present, stretching in length about two short Miles, and a little above one Mile in breadth. This situation is more con∣venient for Trade than the former, and besides, the Heat of the Summer is agreeably temper'd by a cool Breeze that blows every day. But these Ad∣vantages are counter-balanc'd by the Earthquakes that happen so frequently in this place, and make such a terrible havock that the Inhabitants often∣times wish that their Town were plac'd again on the Hill, where they think the danger wou'd not be so great. For 'tis generally believ'd, that the Earth∣quakes are occasion'd by the vast and deep Conca∣vities made by the subterraneous Streams that fall from the Mountain, where the Wind and Vapours

being pent up, and endeavouring to break forth impetuously, cause those dreadful Jolts that are felt here so often. However I can assure you, that the Hill is much less subject to Earthquakes than the place where the City stands at present: For since I came hither there happen'd four in one day, and all of 'em strong and violent enough to strike a Ter∣ror into those that are not accustom'd to 'em. Nor does their frequency make 'em less dreadful to the Inhabitants of this place; for as soon as they per∣ceive the least shaking of the Earth they run out of their Houses with all the signs of Fear and Amaze∣ment, and call upon God, every one according to the Rites of his Religion. Nor can this be justly call'd a Panic Terror, for they were so roughly handl'd by an Earthquake three Years ago, that I I wonder how any of 'em durst afterwards venture to repair their ruin'd Habitations. About Noon, when they were all at Dinner, the Earth began to shake so furiously as if the whole Machine of the Universe had been falling to pieces. A thousand Houses were over-turn'd in an Instant with a hide∣ous dinn, and 3000 Persons were buried under the Ruines. The rest who had the good Fortune to escape, were seiz'd with a terrible Consternation, and ran wildly about, not knowing whither to flee, nor where to hide themselves; for they were still alarm'd with repeated Jolts. And besides, the lurk∣ing Fires that lay hid among the Ruines were fann'd and blown up so violently by a strong Gale, which accompany'd the Earthquake, that the Flame cou'd not be extinguish'd for the space of two days, till the very Rubbish of the Houses was consum'd. Add to this dismal Spectacle the howlings of those Wretches that were not quite kill'd by the fall of the Houses, and you'll find your self oblig'd to ac∣knowledge, that never any accident produc'd a more lamentable Scene of Misery. At last the Sea∣men

that were on Board the Vessels in the Port, came a-shore, and found above 500 Persons alive under the Ruines, some with broken Legs, and others with broken Arms; some were bruis'd all over, and all in general were Objects of Pity and Compassion. The Captains of the Ships carry'd those who were Hurt or Wounded on Board, with the most considerable Persons of their respective Nations: But the rest of the Inhabitants were forc'd to lie abroad till they had prepar'd new Lodgings, which were only some paltry Huts of Straw. That part of the City where the Franks live was most violently shaken, so that they were all Sufferers, and most of 'em lost in one day the fruit of many Years Labour. Some that had strip'd themselves to the very Shirt to enjoy with greater Pleasure the Coolness of the Wind, were reduc'd to the necessity of begging Coats to cover their Na∣kedness. As for the Societies of Merchants, tho' they were considerable Sharers in the common Ca∣lamity, the greatness of their Stocks kept 'em from falling into such an excess of Misery. The English and Dutch particularly are so rich, that they can easily support the loss of 50000 Livres: But every Man suffer'd proportionably to his Estate, and it may be said that the Poor lost more than the Rich, because they were depriv'd of their All.

Monsieur Fabre the French Consul perish'd under the Ruines, notwithstanding all the Endeavours that were us'd to save him; and several Rich Mer∣chants had the same Fate. Next Year the Plague broke forth among those whom the Fire and the Earthquake had spar'd; and the last Year may be reckon'd as Calamitous as either of the former, by reason of the horrible Disorders that were commit∣ted here by the Algerines and Barbarians. Thus, within the compass of Three Years, this City has suffer'd Four of the severest Judgments that are usually

inflicted by Heaven. These Misfortunes wou'd have ruin'd a poor Town, but there are hardly any Footsteps of 'em left in this; for 'tis almost quite Rebuilt already, and the Street where the Franks live is fairer than 'twas before.

This is the most considerable seat of Commerce in the Levant, and the Dignity of the Consuls who reside here is next to that of Ambassadors. Their Jurisdiction is extended over Natolia, Scio, Metelin, and several other Islands of the Archipelago, in which they appoint Vice-Consuls, who govern under their Authority. This is a very Honourable Employ∣ment, and those who are possest of it are much re∣spected, even by the Turks, who have as great a Veneration for Consuls as for Ambassadors, and receive 'em at Audiences with the same Ceremonies. When they go thro' the Streets, the Turks draw up in Files, and open a Passage for 'em, as for a Bassa: Nor do they ever walk abroad without two Inter∣preters, and as many Janisaries, who march before 'em, and serve instead of a Life-Guard; and be∣sides, they are accompany'd with two or three Merchants, and follow'd by their Servants in Li∣very. But on the days of Audience their Train is more numerous and splendid, for they are always preceded by six Interpreters, and a like number of Janisaries, with Zercola's on their Heads; and follow'd by all the most considerable Persons of the Nation, whose number sometimes amounts to above forty. Nor does the Grandeur of this Post consist meerly in external Pomp; for their Power is as considerable as their State, and their Authority over their respective Nations exceeds that of ordi∣nary Governors, so much the more as they are far∣ther distant from the Court. 'Tis true, that in the management of Affairs that meerly regard Trade, they are oblig'd to call a Meeting of the Principal Merchants, who decide the Matter by plurality of

Voices, and the Consul is only President of the Assembly. But in all cases that relate to the admi∣nistration of Justice or the Government of a City, he represents the Person of the Sovereign, and is as exactly obey'd. He is the absolute Judge of all Suits or Actions, whether Criminal or Civil; and has under him a Chancellor, who performs the Office of a Clerk and Notary, a Secretary, and a Treasurer, who receives all the Money that is sent either on the publick Account, or by way of private Com∣mission. The Dignity of his Function is also con∣spicuous in the Church, where he sits in an arm'd Chair, with a Cushion of Crimson Velvet to kneel upon. But the main advantage of this Office is in my Opinion the largeness of its Revenue, which seldom or never amounts to less than 18000 French Livres. All Franks are oblig'd at their Arrival to address themselves to their respective Consuls, and desire their Protection, or otherwise must expect to be seiz'd, and sent back to their own Country. Yet, without any regard to that Custom, I have put my self under the Protection of Monsieur de Hochepied, the Dutch Consul: For when I went to see him, and acquainted him with my design, he offer'd me that Favour with so much Generosity, that I neither cou'd, nor was willing, to refuse it. Nor did his Civility stop there, for he oblig'd me to accept of a Lodging in his fine House, where I need not be afraid of my Countrymen's Indignation. However, to avoid any accident that might happen, I seldom or never go abroad but in his Company, tho', considering the kindness he expresses to me on all occasions, I believe I might walk alone without any danger. For he is so much honour'd, respected, and belov'd by all the Nations who reside here, and even by the French themselves, that there is not one Person, small or great, who wou'd not run to Japan, rather than disoblige him. He is usually

call'd, The Consul, without any Addition, as if he were the only Person in Smyrna who cou'd pretend to that Character: The rest of the Consuls are known by the Names of their respective Nations, but he is The Consul by way of Eminency. And, to give you a better Idea of him, I can assure you that so universal a Love and Esteem is purely the effect of his Merit; for he is Master of a vast Wit, his Temper is sweet, civil, and obliging, and in one world he is a compleat Person, which I think is the justest and most expressive Account I can give you of him. There are so many Perfections requir'd to make a Man worthy of that Character, that a Compleat Man is certainly one of the greatest Ra∣rities of this Age: But all these Qualifications are united in him. He is descended of a Noble and Ancient Family in Holland, which can boast of an uninterrupted Succession for above 300 Years, and is Ally'd to the Principal Houses in the Netherlands. Among the rest I shall only mention its late Alliance with the most ancient Family of the Collier's, which is originally of Scotland: Their* 1.7 Device is the finest that ever I saw, nor do they bear it in vain. For they have upon all occa∣sions signaliz'd their Courage in Military Atchieve∣ments; and there are at present three of that Fa∣mily in the King's Service, who seem to make Va∣lour their Favourite Vertue, and are known and esteem'd by the whole Army, both for that and a thousand other no less glorious Endowments.

Madam de Hochepied is the Sister of the present, and Daughter of the late Dutch Ambassador. She's a finish'd Beauty, and has the Air of a Princess; and besides (which is as true as it seems incredible) she is absolutely Mistress of Seven of the most diffi∣cult and opposite Languages in the World. For be∣sides the Dutch, which is her natural Tongue, she speaks the French, Italian, Greek, Russian, Turkish, and

Arabian Languages, and speaks 'em all so perfectly well, that I have often heard her explaining to Interpreters the true sense of certain hard Words, of which they were ignorant before. In short, she's in all respects an admirable Person. Judge, Sir, whether I can think the time tedious which I spend in such agreeable Company, and in a House where I'm so kindly entertain'd; and whe∣ther you can blame me for not hastening my de∣parture. I'm resolv'd to expect an occasion for Venice, and I believe 'twill be a long time before I can find one; because the Venetian Vessels never venture to appear in this part of the Sea, till the Turkish Fleet be laid up, tho' they have no great reason to dread it, since the Grand Signior, for all his Grandeur, is Master only of Eleven Ships of War. 'Tis true, if all his Galleys wou'd put to Sea, their number might at least amount to 200; but as Affairs are manag'd at present, his Navy makes no great Figure. You may expect a more particular Account of these things in my next. In the mean time,

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Smyrna, Apr. 1691.

LETTER XIX.

SIR,

YOU might justly accuse me of Laziness, or want of Complaisance, if I shou'd not employ the leisure I enjoy at present in recollecting my Observations concerning the Government, Religion, Manners, and Customs of the Turks. I shall en∣deavour therefore to satisfie your Curiosity, by en∣tertaining you with a short account of these Sub∣jects, avoiding all impertinent Repetitions of those obvious and common Remarks that are to be met with in almost every Book of Voyages. And I hope the Points I propose to handle will furnish me with sufficient Matter for Three Letters; the first of which shall treat of the Government, the second of the Reli∣gion, and the third of the Manners and Customs of the Turks.

The Turkish Empire, according to the primitive and fundamental Constitution of the Government, is absolutely and entirely Despotic; that is, a Su∣pream and Arbitrary Power is lodg••d in the Person of the Emperor, whose Will is the only Law by which he Rules, and who acknowledges no other Maxim of Government than Sic volo, sic jubeo. He is not curb'd by any written Law or Custom, and those whom he Oppresses have not so much as a right to Complain. He may take away any Man's Estate, and either keep it, or give it to another. Sometimes he passes by the most ancient Bassa's, and in one day advances a simple Chiaux, or even a Cook, to the Dignity of Grand Visier. He sends for the Heads of those whom he has a Mind to be rid of, who are Murder'd without any Trial or

Form of Justice, and even without knowing the Reason of his Displeasure. In one Word, his Plea∣sure is the supreme and uncontroulable Law. This unlimited Power of the Sultan is founded on the Mahometan Religion, which enjoins a blind Obedi∣ence to all his Commands under Pain of Damna∣tion. But the Turks of late have render'd their Slavery more tolerable; for tho' they have made no Alte∣ration in the Constitution of the Government, their Practices are very different from what they were heretofore.

The Grand Visier is the Chief Minister of State, and is call'd King by the Turks, to shew how much the Sultans slight and undervalue that Title, in Imi∣tation of the Old Roman Emperours, who bestow'd Kingdoms on their Favourites. This is the Rea∣son why the Grand Signior stiles himself The Pro∣tector of Persecuted Kings, and the Distributer of Crowns; tho' he wears none himself, not even on the Day of his Public Inauguration, for the only Badge of his Imperial Dignity is a magnificent Sabre, enrich'd with precious Stones, which the Mufti girds to his Side. The Grand Visier is entrusted with the whole Management of Affairs, and his Power is almost equal to the Sultan's. He is in a great mea∣sure the Arbiter of Peace and War, and creates the Fortune of all the Great Officers in the Empire. 'Tis true, he ought not to do any thing without the Advice of a Council, compos'd of seven Bassa's, call'd the Visiers of the Bench: but they have only a Shadow of Authority, which scarce deserves to be mention'd.

The next in Order, are the Bassa's, who are a sort of Vice-Roys in the Provinces. Their Office is to administer Justice exactly, and to keep the Peo∣ple in Subjection to the Government. They are al∣so oblig'd to pay a yearly Tribute to the Grand Sig∣nior, both of Money and Slaves, without reck'ning

the Carache, Customs, and other Imposts that are usu∣ally exacted. This is the utmost Extent of the Legal Authority of the Bassa's; but they commonly abuse their Power, and are more arbitrary Tyrants than the Grand Signior himself. Their principal Aim is to raise their Fortune speedily; and in order to that they rob the Widow and Orphan, and fill the Land with Spoil and Oppression, never scrupling to com∣mit a gainful Crime, tho' attended with the ba∣sest Circumstances. The Sultan is forc'd to dissem∣ble his Knowledge of these Disorders, for want of Power to suppress 'em: for every Bassa maintains some standing Forces at his own Charge, whose Assistance he may command upon all Occasions, if their Payment be not wholly neglected. Whereas the Sultan, who for the most part wants Money to pay his Army, and perhaps does not shew himself twice in his Life to the Soldiers, is so far from be∣ing Master of 'em, that he is almost always con∣strain'd to submit to their Authority. This is the fatal Source of all those Seditions that have so often shaken, and will at last overturn the Empire. For how can we suppose that Subjects will either love or fear a lazy Prince, that takes no Share in the Bu∣siness of State or War: a Prince, that contents him∣self with a Chimerical Show of Grandeur and Pow∣er, and seems rather to be a Mock-King in a Farce than a Ruler of Kingdoms? 'Tis plain both from Rea∣son and Experience, that a great Monarch, who wou'd be the absolute Master of his Subjects, ought to apply himself to the Execution and Reformation of the Laws, and above all, to gain the Esteem and Affection of his Soldiers, whom he ought to look upon as the surest Prop and Support of his Authority. An Ar∣my in a State cannot remain indifferent; they must and will have a Master; and will either continue faithful to the Crown, or espouse the Interest of some designing Subject: And therefore it ought to

be the Prince's Care to discover their Inclinations, and to act accordingly. Kings are as feeble Creatures as other Men, and as unable to perform any Great Action by their own Power: but when they are at the Head of 100000 Men, all devoted to their Interest, 'tis then they become the Terrour of the World, and their Power is almost as boundless as their Ambition. The Fate of Monarchs depends on their Armies, and without these neither Alexander, Caesar, nor Lewis XIV. cou'd have gain'd one Inch of Ground. This is so evident and certain a Truth, that never any Person had the Confidence to controvert it: and I believe the Ottoman Emperours are of the same Opinion, tho' all their Actions seem to be grounded on very different, and even opposite Maxims. A Prince that wou'd secure the Loyalty of his For∣ces, must take care of 'em himself, visit 'em of∣ten, give out all Orders, preferr Men of known Me∣rit, keep both the Officers and Soldiers under an exact Discipline, and pay 'em as punctually as he can. The Grand Signior observes not one of these Maxims, and therefore he may blame himself for the Unru∣liness of his Army. But the Government is guilty of another Blunder, which, in my Opinion, is no less fatal than the former; I mean the usual way of appeasing Seditions, which break forth oftner than once a Year. For every Tumult that shakes the Sultan's Throne, costs him the Heads of a hundred of his Principal Officers: The Grand Visier is com∣monly made the first Sacrifice, and afterwards that important Charge is entrusted to some young and unexperienc'd Person, as if a Minister of State cou'd spring up in a Night like a Mushroom. This Custom is directly opposite to common Sence, which teaches us that no Man ought to be advanc'd to so high a Post, but one that has been long accustom'd to State-Business, and has spent his whole Life in fitting himself for the Management of so great a Trust.

These Considerations give me an Idea of the Turkish Empire, which I cannot express better than by com∣paring it to a Coach drawn by a Sett of ungovernable Horses, each of which pulls a contrary Way.

If we descend lower, and take a more particular View of the Government, we shall every where find the dismal Effects of these Disorders. The Di∣stempers of the Head are usually communicated to the Inferiour Members: And I never saw a Country, where Justice is so often and so impudently pervert∣ed, by those who are entrusted with the Execution of it. I know 'tis the Custom of some Travellers to magnifie the Turkish way of administring Justice: but such a groundless Conceit is only the Effect of the powerful Inclination most Men have to admire every thing that is unusual or extraordinary. And I'm confident that a bare Account of their Method of Judging Civil and Criminal Causes, will give you a very different Notion of their boasted Justice; You, I say, who are not tainted with those com∣mon Prejudices, but are always wont to judge of things as they are in themselves, without considering whether they are rare or common.

They have no written Laws but what are con∣tain'd in the Alcoran, which they hold to be the Rule of Faith, and Standard of Justice, and every thing that it forbids is esteem'd unlawful and pu∣nishable. Nevertheless the Bassa's and Cadi's judge as they please, for the Book is very short, and be∣sides a great deal fuller of Dreams and Absurdities than of Laws or Moral Precepts; and those few it contains are so ambiguously express'd, and deliver'd in so loose a Manner, that these greedy Officers cannot desire a more favourable Opportunity to sa∣tisfie their Avarice. Besides they judge without Ap∣peal, and cause the Sentence to be executed upon the Spot. 'Tis true, some highly injur'd Persons have recourse to the Grand Signior's Divan; but

then the Injustice must be very plain and inexcusa∣ble, or 'tis in vain to expect Satisfaction; and that is so seldom obtain'd, that few prudent Men will venture on so troublesome and expensive a Journey: for since 'tis not the Custom to record either the Pleadings, or the Sentence, the Judge may easily elude all the Arguments of his Accusers. 'Tis true, the Number of the Plaintiffs is usually so great, and the Informations of other Officers so positive, that the Truth is at last discover'd, and the Offen∣ders are punish'd. But tho' few Cadi's leave the Of∣fice with Honour, there is not the least Care taken to repair the Losses of those whom they have ru∣in'd. For, besides what I intimated before, that their Proceedings are not register'd, the new Cadi is usually as great a Rogue as his Predecessour; so that the poor oppress'd People must bear their Mis∣fortunes as patiently as they can, without the least hope of Redress.

The Cadi's are mere Beggars when they are first advanc'd to that gainfull Post, and their Commission lasts but a Year: yet in less than three Months these tatter'd Scoundrels exchange their Rags for gawdy Habits, and a magnificent Equipage, and at the End of the Year are Masters of vast Estates. We exclaim against our Lawyers in France, and will not suffer those who have spend 20 or 30 Years in a perpetual Hurry of Business, to enjoy the Fruit of their Labours in Peace, tho' the Fortunes they ac∣quire are for the most part so small, that they can hardly subsist without Employment. But I'm con∣fident a little Acquaintance with the Customs of this Country wou'd quickly stop the Mouths of our Grumblers: for if the Cadi of a considerable City were permitted to hold his Office Ten Years, he wou'd be richer than a President au Mortier. He that went last from Smyrna gain'd above 40000 Crowns; and you may easily judge how mise∣rably

the Inhabitants were oppress'd by a Judge that cou'd in one Year heap up so great a Treasure. 'Tis true he durst not expect the Coming of his Succes∣sour, but march'd off eight days before, without staying to take leave of his Friends, according to the prudent Custom of his Brother-Rogues. For they are oblig'd to give an Account of their Administra∣tion to the succeeding Cadi's, who make a Report to the Grand Signior's Divan, and even secure their Persons when the Comlaints against 'em are very numerous and grievous. But they are too conscious of their Guilt, to stand a Trial which they know wou'd infallibly ruine 'em; and therefore to avoid so terrible a Danger, they go immediately to their Patron at the Port, who receives his Share in the Booty, and grants 'em his Protection, without which they wou'd be punish'd without Mercy. Yet some of 'em chuse rather to buy their Peace of the new Cadi, who, for 8 or 10 Purses, which amounts to 12 or 15000 Livres, gives 'em as favourable a Certifi∣cate as they can desire.

All Civil Affairs are judg'd by the Cadi according to the Deposition of Witnesses, without any regard to Writings. For suppose you had lent 1000 Piasters to a Man upon his Note or Bond, if he can but suborn two Men to affirm that they saw him pay you such a Summ, you must infallibly lose your Money. This Custom gives a fair Opportunity to Men of dishonest Principles to abuse their Creditors; since they may easily find Witnesses to prove any thing, and even without giving themselves the trou∣ble to enquire after 'em. One word, or a Sign to the Cadi is sufficient, who always keeps a Score of Knights of the Post ready to serve him or any of his Friends on such Occasions. After the two con∣tending Parties have pleaded their own Cause as well as they can, for there are no Barristers in Tur∣key, one of 'em clutches his right Fist, and

stretches out one, two, or three of his Fingers, sig∣nifying, that he intends to present the Cadi with a like number of Purses: Then his Adversary makes the same Sign, and offers more or less, as he thinks fit. At Night the Cadi sends for the highest Bidder, and having receiv'd his Present, requites his Com∣pliment very civilly the next Day, with a favourable Sentence; after which he that is cast must either pay the Debt immediately, or go to Prison. And (which is still more unjust) if you are not able to maintain him, and pay the Fees of those who ar∣rested him, you must resign the third Part of your Debt; in Consideration of which the poor Wretch is kept rotting in the Gaol, till an exact Enquiry be made into his Estate. And if it be found that the Debt exceeds the Value of his Goods and Possessions, the Payment is chang'd to a Corporal Punishment, and he receives as many Bastinadoes on the Soals of his Feet as he owes Piast••rs, unless the Summ exceed 500; for they stop there, because the strongest Man cou'd not endure a greater num∣ber of Blows without manifest Danger of his Life.

The Judgment of Criminal Affairs belongs to the Bassa, who proceeds after the same manner: for Money clears the most barbarous Malefactor, and without that, Justice degenerates to Cruelty. The Stake and the Gibbet seem to be only made for poor Villains; nor can there be a greater Sign of Poverty, than when a Man is prosecuted for Murder or Rob∣bery: for since the Bassa and Vaivode are always sure of 40000 Aspers, the usual Price of Blood, which they exact of those before whose Doors the Murder was committed; they seldom or never take care to execute Justice on the Murderer. I have seen a Ja∣nisary, who had kill'd above 30 Men, walk thro' the Streets unmolested, and with as much Confi∣dence as the most innocent Person in Town. Nor are these corrupt Tribunals less favourable to the

Robbers that infest the Country, and commit such frequent Disorders, that no wise Man will venture to travel one day's Journey without being compleat∣ly arm'd, and extremely well accompany'd. 'Tis true, the Grand Signior from time to time sends su∣periour Bassa's, attended with some Companies of Soldiers, to search after unpunish'd Malefactors. 'Tis not above two Months since one of 'em came to this City, and put to Death about 20 Criminals: but after all, these Great Inquisitors are only terrible to those who are unable to buy their Favour, and even he whom I mention'd had above fifty Customers of this Sort. Among the rest I shall only take notice of one Instance of his mercenary Clemency; and I hope I shall easily obtain your Pardon for a Di∣gression which will not only divert you, but give you a clearer Idea of the Genius of the Turkish Offi∣cers of Justice.

A Man that us'd to work in a Dutch Merchant's Garden, was seiz'd for a Murder, which he had committed 7 or 8 Years before, and finding him∣self to be in a very hopeless Condition, sent to beg the Merchant's Assistance, who was too generous to suffer one that had serv'd him to be hang'd for wan•• of 2 or 300 Piasters. The poor Man relying upon his Master's promis'd Kindness, began immediately to treat with the Bassa for his Ransom, which at last was fix'd at 100 Turkish Pieces of Gold, commonly call'd Scherifi, worth 2 1/4 Piasters each. The Bargain being thus concluded, the Merchant gave the hun∣dred Scherifi to the Bassa's Kiaia, who deliver'd but ninety to the Treasurer, having kept the other ten for himself. Now you must know that there are in Turkey a sort of Men who pretend to be Mahomet's Kinsmen, and are highly reverenc'd by all Persons: They wear green Turbants, and are call'd Scherifi, which (you may remember I told you) is the Name of the Pieces of Gold. When the Trial came

on, after the Witnesses were examin'd, the Bassa perceiving that there were Ten Pieces wanting of the promis'd Summ, and imagining that Defect to be a design'd Breach of the Agreement, seem'd to be very nice and inexorable, and protested that he cou'd not acquit a Man who was positively charg'd with Murder by so many Witnesses. But the Secre∣tary, who by good Fortune was acquainted with the whole Transaction, told him, That tho' these Wit∣nesses declar'd him Guilty, there were 100 Scherifi ar∣riv'd, who asserted his Innocencey, and that their Testi∣mony was much more convincing. I thought, said the Bassa, I saw but 90; 'Tis true, reply'd the Secretary, but there were Ten more, who by reason of their great Age, could not come up to your Presence, and therefore staid below with the Kiaia. The Bassa, who was neither Deaf nor Dull, understood the Meaning of those Expressions, and declar'd the accus'd Person in∣nocent.

There are several sorts of Punishments inflicted on Malefactors in this Country; such as Beheading, Drowning, Hanging, Strangling, Burning, Impaling, and the Strappado. The two last are the most Cru∣el, and are appointed only for Turks that renounce the Mahometan Faith, or Renegado's that return to the Profession of the Christian Religion, or for those who are convicted of some very enormous Crimes. Robbers and Murderers are hang'd, Women are drown'd, those who are found guilty of Rebellion or Sedition are beheaded, and Burning is the Punishment of Chri∣stians for blaspheming against Mahomet or the Alcoran, or for lying with a Turkish Woman. Not long ago an English Merchant at Constantinople very narrowly escap'd Suffering for the last of these Crimes. He kept a fair Turk with all imaginable Secrecy, and never saw her at his own House. To prevent Suspici∣on, he procur'd a very pretty Yacht, in which he went with her almost every day, to take the Air

on the Sea of Marmora, or in the Canal of the Black Sea, and usually staid abroad till Night. But at last the whole Intrigue was discover'd by the In∣discretion of a Servant; and they were both ap∣prehended by an Order from the Grand Visier, who at first threaten'd to burn the Merchant, but was af∣terwards prevail'd with to accept a Fine of 10000 Piasters, which he paid upon the Spot. Several Travellers have particularly describ'd the Punish∣ments call'd Impaling, and the Strappado, as well as the Manner of giving the Bastonnado; and therefore I shall forbear troubling you with an Account of what I suppose you know already.

The Government of the Cities is manag'd by Five Kinds of Officers, the Bassa, Sub-Bassa, Vaivode, Cadi, and Receiver of the Customs. The Bassa is properly the Governor, and judges criminal Causes; and the Sub-Bassa is as it were his Deputy. The Vaivode takes care of regulating Affairs in the City; he walks the Round twice a-week, to examine the Weights and Mea∣sures, to observe whether unlicens'd Tipling-Houses are kept, to punish Drunken Persons, and all those in the general who commit any Disorders in the City. Those who are found guilty of these or any other Abuses, must immediately submit to the Ba∣stonnado, especially Drunkards, who are always very roughly handl'd. The Function of the Sub-Bassa is not much different. The Cadi is the Judge of all Civil Suits; and the Receiver of the Customs, who in France is only a private Person without any Authority, is in this Country empower'd to take Cognizance of all fraudulent Practices relating to Pecuniary Duties, in all which Cases he is both Judge and Party.

The Jealousie that reigns among these Officers is so furious and extravagant, that they make it their principal Business to discredit and ruine one ano∣ther. 'Tis a Pleasure to hear the Characters which they mutually give of each other; and assoon as

they are acquainted with a Man, they begin to en∣tertain him with a Harangue on that Subject. The Vaivode of this Place, with whom I have contracted a sort of Friendship, has told me a thousand Sto∣ries of the Bassa's and Cadi's, which, as diverting as they are, I shall rather chuse to relate, than to write to you: and therefore you must even content your self at present with one, for a Taste of the pleasant Entertainment you may expect at our next Meeting.

One who had as little Money as Honesty, that is, none at all, was sent in the Quality of a Cadi, to a certain Town, where he hop'd the Wranglings of the Inhabitants wou'd quickly supply all his Wants. But, as ill Luck wou'd have it, his Predecessors had quite spoil'd his Market; and Oppression, which makes some wise Men mad, had made these Fools, wise. They heard he was a very hungry Devil, and they resolv'd to starve him out-right; wisely considering that 'twas both their Duty and Interest to live in Peace, or at least to refer all their Diffe∣rences to the Arbitration of honest Friends, rather than by tearing out their own Bowels to feed their Greedy Devourer. And it seems they show'd as much Firmness in pursuing, as Wisdom in ma∣king so advantageous a Resolution: for the Cadi spent six Weeks or two Months after his Arrival, without any Employment but Fretting, Cursing, and biting his Thumbs out of meer Spite, because he could find nothing else to exercise his Teeth upon. One day as he was walking in the Streets, medita∣ting no doubt on his wretched Fate, he perceiv'd a Baker, who was drawing a good Fat Goose out of his Oven; and the savoury Vapours assaulting his Nose, rais'd a furious Commotion in his empty Stomach: his Mouth water'd at the delicious Ob∣j••ct, and his Guts began to rumble with a more than ordinary Violence. In a Word, he was so little Master of himself, that he cou'd not forbear beg∣ging

a Piece; but the Baker told him that the Goose belong'd to one of his Neighbours, who had sent it to him to be bak'd. Come, reply'd the Cadi, take my Advice: We'll eat the Goose, and when the Man comes to fetch it, tell him that as thou wert bringing it out to see whether 'twas ready, a Flock of Geese hap∣pen'd to fly by the Door, and that his Goose perceiving its old Companions, wou'd not be persuaded to stay be∣hind 'em. If he will not be satisfy'd with so fair an Answer, let him e'en take his Course; for he must bring thee before me, and I'll find a Way to save thee harmless. There was no need of more Argu∣ments, for the Baker's Stomach was on the Cadi's Side, and his Conscience made no long Resistance: and therefore assoon as he had signify'd his Con∣sent, the Cadi began to bestir his Chaps so vigorous∣ly, that by the Assistance of his Friend the Business was dispatch••d in an Instant. Two Hours after the Man came for his Goose, and the Baker repeated his Lesson very gravely: but the Jest was some∣what too gross, and the Man was so offended at the Baker••s Insolency, that he took him immedi∣ately by the Neck, and told him that he must ei∣ther restore his Goose, or go before the Cadi; for there are no Sergeants or Bailiffs in this Country. These Threatnings made no great Impression upon the Baker, since he knew that he was to be judg'd by his Fellow-Rogue; so that he was as free from Fear, as the other was full of Anger and Revenge and walk'd very peaceably along with his Accuser. But they had not gone far when they were stopp'd by the Lamentations of a poor Mule-Driver, whose Mule was fall'n under her Load, and lay sprawl∣ing on the Ground. The Baker was mov'd with Compassion at the poor Man's Misfortune, who came to beg his Assistance, and took hold of the Mule's Tail, while the Man himself endeavour'd t•• raise her Head: but the Load was so heavy, tha••

the Baker finding more Resistance than he expected, and pulling with all the Force of a Brawny Arm, at last pluck'd the Tail off at the Root. The Owner of the Mule was so enrag'd at this unlucky Accident, which made him incapable of following his usual Oc∣cupation, that not regarding the Baker's charitable Intention, he seiz'd him by the Collar, and help'd the other Man to hale him along, for he was so far from going willingly as before, that considering the Cadi was not at all concern'd in this Affair, and not daring to rely too much on his Friendship, lest he should be oblig'd to pay the Price of the Mule, he made a shift to get loose; and think∣ing to make his Lscape, ran into a House not far from the place where he met the Mule-Driver. But, as Mischances never come single, it happen'd that there was a Woman six Months gone with Child, standing in the Court of the House where he thought to secure himself, who was so terrify'd at the sight of a Man running, with two others pur∣suing him furiously at his Heels, that she miscar∣ry'd immediately. Thus the poor Baker had the Mortification to see the Number of his Enemies en∣creas'd; for the Woman's Husband join'd with the other Two, and all together carry'd him before the Cadi, whom they acquainted with the Reason of their Coming, expressing their several Complaints in a very mournful Tone, to move their Judge to Compassion.

I'm a very poor Man, said he who had receiv'd the first Injury, and all the Town knows that I had but one Goose, which I intended to eat with my Wife and Children, in Peace and Joy, as I hope for the Blessing of the Prophet. But alas! this wicked Man has stoll'n her from me, and wou'd put me off with a ridiculous Story: he has the Impudence to tell me that ••y Goose after she was bak'd, spy'd a Flock of other Geese, and flew away with 'em.

I had but one Mule, cry'd the Second, which main∣tain'd me and all my Family; I had but one, and now, alas! I may say I have none: for the poor Creature had the Misfortune to fall under her Burden, and this Man happen'd to pass by as I was endeavouring in vain to relieve her. I intreated him to help me, but instead of raising her up, he pluck'd off her Tail.

Ah! Wou'd I had no more Reason to complain than either of the rest, said the Third. I have but one Wife, and that a very bad one. We have been mar∣ry'd these three Years, and I have toil••d Night and Day to get her with Child: At last, by the Blessing of the Prophet I did the Feat, and in a little time ex∣pected to see the Fruit of my Labours. But that Trai∣tour has this Day destroy'd what I cou'd hardly get in three Years: he put my Wife into such a Fright, that she miscarry'd three Months before the Time.

Judge, Sir, with what Impatience and Fear the Baker expected his Doom, and how the Cadi was puzzl'd to bring him off in Spite of so many cla∣morous Accusers. Yet the Difficulty of the Case serv'd only to show the Dexterity of the Judge, as you will easily perceive by his Answers to the Three Plaintiffs.

I cannot, said he to the First, oblige a Man to re∣store a Goose, which, he affirms, flew out of his hands. I confess the Story is very surprizing and improbable, but we must always give credit to an honest Man's Word: And therefore since thou canst produce no Wit∣nesses to disprove it, thou must e'en resolve to bear thy Mifortune patiently.

As for thee, said he to the Second, 'tis another Case: He has pluck'd off thy Mule's Tail, and made her unfit for Service. And therefore 'tis just that be shou'd be oblig'd to keep her at his own Charge till her Rump be heal'd.

But thou, poor Man, said he, turning to the Third▪ art more to be pity'd than either of the rest. Thou

say'st (and I believe thee) that it cost thee three Years Labour to get a Child: and after all thy Toil, this Man by an unlucky Accident has made thy Wife cast her Bantling three Months before the Time. I condemn the Rogue to take her home with him, to ••ill her Belly again, and to keep her till she be in the same Conditi∣on, and the Child as old as when he made her miscarry.

I will not ask your Opinion of this Story, till you have heard both Parties: for the Cadi thinks himself as honest a Man, and as worthy of your Audi∣ence as the Vaivode; and therefore you must e'en be satisfy'd to hear his Tale next.

A very Rich Man dy'd, and left his Son Heir to his whole Estate, except 1000 Piasters, which he bequeath'd to the Tyrant of the Country. Now you must know that the Turks are very religious Obser∣vers of the Last-Wills of their Relations: and this Young Man it seems was very nice in that Point. His Ignorance of his Father's Meaning made him extremely uneasie; for he concluded that if he shou'd detain another Man's Right, against his Fa∣ther's positive Command, 'twou'd certainly bring the Curse of the Prophet upon him. After he had spent some time in considering where to bestow the Legacy, he resolv'd to carry it to the Bassa, whom he address'd thus: Sir, My Father order'd me by his Last-Will, to give 1000 Piasters to the Tyrant of the Country, without mentioning the Name of any particu∣lar Person. I was extremely troubl'd at the Obscurity of these Words, and not being able to unriddle the My∣stery, I thought my self oblig'd to bring the Money to you not as to a Tyrant, but as to the most powerful Person in the Country. The Bassa, who by chance was an honest Man, reply'd very calmly, My Son, I neither am, nor will be a Tyrant, carry the Money to the Cadi, for he has more Right to it than I. The Young Man perceiving that 'twou'd be in vain to urge him to accept it, went according to his Advice, and

made the same Complement to the Cadi, whom he found to be as generous as the Bassa; for he told him he cou'd not take it without injuring the Per∣son for whom it was design'd, and desir'd him to carry it to the Receiver of the Customs. But that Offi∣cer was as jealous of his Honour as either of the rest, and sent the young Heir to the Vaivode, who hearing that he had been with the other three, and what Answers he had receiv'd from 'em, told him that as his Conscience oblig'd him to ease a Neighbour of a Burthen that seem'd to be so troublesome to him, so it wou'd not permit him to receive it absolutely gratis. Let us, added he, make a feign'd Bargain; you shall buy all the Snow in my Court for 1000 Piasters, and then I can take the Money with a safe Conscience. The Young Man, who had been bandy'd about so of∣ten, and was glad to be rid of the Money on any Terms, consented immediately to the Proposal. As soon as the Bargain was concluded, and the Deed of Conveyance written, the Vaivode's Secretary de∣manded his Fees; for in this Country the Purcha∣ser must always pay for the Contract. The Young Man was both vex'd and surpriz'd at the Impudence of these Blood-suckers, and upbraided 'em with their Injustice and Barbarity; adding, That he did not expect to be troubl'd with their litigious Tricks after he had freely presented 'em with so considerable a Summ: But neither his Anger nor Arguments cou'd prevail, for he was forc'd at last to give the Se∣cretary Ten Piasters more; after which he went home with a Resolution to return no more to a place where he had been so ill treated. But three Days after the Vaivode sent to acquaint him that 'twas time for him to remove his Commodity. The Young Man imagining that they intended only to put a Jest upon him for his foolish Bargain, bid the Messenger tell his Master, that he might keep both

the Goods and the Money. But he was quickly convinc'd, that he had bestow'd the Legacy on the Man who had the best right to it: For the Vaivode forc'd him to remove all the Snow that was in his Court.

I know not whether you can read these Stories without Sleeping: But I durst almost lay a Wager, that if I shou'd add a Third, you wou'd throw away my Letter without staying to hear that

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Smyrna, 1691.

LETTER XX.

SIR,

IN pursuance of the Method I propos'd in my last, I shall in this Letter give you a brief Ac∣count of the Turkish Religion, which, in the Opini∣on of those who profess it, is a New Law, Insti∣tuted by GOD, in the room of the Christian Re∣ligion.

GOD, they say, has sent Four Prophets to reveal his Will to Mankind, and instruct us in the way to Salvation. The first was Enoch, who Preach'd and Propheci'd, but did not commit his Doctrine to Writing. For, in those Days, GOD communica∣ted Himself to Mankind in so sensible a manner, that there was no need of a Written-Law. After this Prophet had executed his Commission, he was taken up into Heaven, both Soul and Body. In

the mean time, GOD seeing that Men perverted their Ways, and made the want of a Written-Law, a Cloak and Pretext for their Transgressions, sent Moses, who brought the Children of Israel out of Egypt, and gave 'em the Law which he had re∣ceiv'd from GOD. This was the second Prophet, whose Dispensation was to continue till the coming of JESUS CHRIST, whom they call the Breath of God, acknowledging, that he was Conceiv'd by Divine Operation, in the Womb of his Mother, who remain'd a Virgin, even after his Birth. He alter'd and reform'd the Law, according to the Power with which God had entrusted him, and for that reason incurr'd the hatred of the Jews, who sought to put him to Death, and hir'd the Traytor Judas to betray him. But when he came to the Oliv••-Garden, they were seiz'd with so strange an Illusion, that they Crucifi'd Judas instead of his Master, who was, in the mean time, translated to Heaven, where he remains with the two former Prophets. They say, this Opinion serves much bet∣ter to display the Glory of CHRIST, than the Christian Doctrine; and brand us with Folly and Im∣piety for believing that He whom we adore as God, was shamefully Crucify'd. The very sight of a Crucifix fills 'em with Anger and Rage, pretending that 'tis a horrid Injury to CHRIST, to represent him in a State of Ignominy and Suffering. They believe also that He will come to judge the World at the last Day; but that He will first Reign upon the Earth, and Marry, and beget Children. They affirm, that He was a Holy Man, and a chosen Vessel; but they will not be perswaded to acknow∣ledge a Trinity of Persons in the Godhead, saying, That such an Opinion wou'd absolutely destroy the Unity of that Sovereign Being, without which He cou'd not be GOD.

CHRIST was succeeded by Mahomet, after whom there shall come no other Prophet. 'Twou'd be an endless Task to reckon up all the Glorious Titles they bestow upon him.

They differ not much from us in their Opinions concerning the Divine Attributes. Only they have such a peculiar Fondness for Predestination, that they extend it even to the most Indifferent Actions, yet with some Limitations and Circumstances which 'twou'd be very difficult to explain, and which they themselves do not well understand. Thus they are firmly perswaded, that under the Reign of such an Emperor, the State will infallibly and perpetually have either a disast'rous or happy Fate: And 'tis this Persuasion that makes 'em so inclinable to de∣throne their Sultans.

They believe, that there is an infinite number of Angels, some Good and others Bad. The first are call'd White, and the others Black Angels or Devils. They imagine that every Man has two Angels that attend him continually, and that one of 'em writes down all his Good, and the other all his Bad Acti∣ons. They address their Prayers to the Black An∣gels as well as to the White, that they may secure the Friendship both of the Inhabitants of Paradice and Hell, tho', in their Opinion, the Souls of the Damn'd enter not into the last of these Places till the Day of Judgment. For 'tis an Article of the Turkish Faith, that the Spirits of the Wicked remain in their Graves, where they are tormented by the Black Angels till the last Day, when they shall be sent to Hell, together with their Bodies, and suffer very cruel Punishments, for the space of One or Two Thousand Years, according to the Crimes they committed in this Life; after which they shall be releas'd, and admitted into Paradice, where they shall enjoy the same Happiness that is appoin∣ted for the Souls of Good Men. They think 'tis

inconsistent with the Divine Goodness, and blame us for believing that GOD will punish a Man Eternally for the Offences of so short a Life: Yet, since they are extremely afraid of Hell, they pray very devoutly to the Black Angels that they wou'd be pleas'd not to write down all their Ill Acti∣ons.

Since you will doubtless look upon their Opini∣on, of the Soul's resting in the Grave after Death, to be very Absurd and Ridiculous, I shall endea∣vour to give you a clearer Idea of their Thoughts on that Subject.

They differ from us in the account they give of the manner how the Soul Informs and Animates the Body. For whereas we believe, that these two Substances are Hypostatically united, and that Death consists in their Separation; they imagine that the Soul and Body have no dependance on one ano∣ther, and that the absence of the Spirit (which, for Example, may take a Journey to Paradice) is not necessarily attended with the Destruction of the Corporeal Machine; tho' they acknowledge that the Body is always depriv'd of Reason, during its Separation from the Soul. Thus they believe, that the only reason why a Fool or Ideot acts and speaks absurdly, is because his Soul (and consequently his Reason) has forsaken him. As for Lunatic and Hypochondriacal Persons, who have some lucid Inter∣vals, and are only depriv'd of their Reason by Fits, they endeavour to solve the Difficulty, by main∣taining, that the Soul leaves her Mansion at certain times, and returns again after a short Absence: And this, they say, is an effect of Providence, either for the Punishment of the Distemper'd Per∣son, or for some other hidden Design. When a Christian tells 'em, that these Fits of Madness pro∣ceed from the Disorder and Indisposition of the Organs, which hinders the Soul from performing

her Functions, they upbraid him with the absur∣dity of his Opinion; for, say they, the Soul of Man is a Spirit, and therefore cannot be stopt or obstructed in the exercise of her Faculties by Mat∣ter, which is a Substance of another, and absolute∣ly different Nature. From this Principle they infer, that neither the Presence nor Absence of the Soul can produce any alteration in the Machinal course of the Body, which is only mov'd by Springs: And that when one of the principal Springs fails, or is spoil'd, the Soul cannot prevent the Ruine of the whole Engine. This, they pretend, is an ob∣vious Truth, and confirm'd by daily Experience: And therefore we must not be surpriz'd, that a dead Body neither Walks, Breathes, nor performs any Operation, tho' the Soul be still lodg'd in it: For since she is not the Author of the Machine which she Inhabits, 'tis beyond her Power either to keep it entire, or to repair it after it falls to de∣cay. GOD alone, who made and contriv'd it, can restore it, and renew its motion, as he will do at the last Day. To confirm this Hypothesis, they cite, with a great deal of Confidence, what Pliny relates of a Man whose Soul and Body were wont to be separated every day, so that the Body re∣main'd without any appearance of Life or Motion, till the return of the Soul, which afterwards us'd to give an Account of all the wonderful things she had seen in the remotest Countries. This, you know, is one of that Author's fabulous Stories, and yet the Turks pretend to draw from thence an evi∣dent and irrefutable Proof of their Opinion. Be∣sides, they give the Soul a Figure exactly like that of the Body, and upon this Principle maintain, that the Souls of the Damned are beaten in the Grave, and suffer Torments, which a pure Spirit seems incapable of feeling. They believe also, that the Beasts shall not be depriv'd of the benefit of

the Resurrection, and that at the Day of Judg∣ment they will give an Account before CHRIST, of all the Kindnesses and Injuries they have re∣ceiv'd from Men. And this Conceit makes 'em so charitable to Irrational Creatures, that some of 'em buy little Birds and live Fishes, that they may afterwards set 'em at liberty.

They fansie themselves polluted by several Things, such as Sleeping, the touching of a Woman, and of all sorts of Excrements; and therefore after any such Accident, they perform their Ablution or Abdest, washing their Face, Hands, Ears, and Feet, and looking towards Mecca. In the Day they content themselves with washing their Mouth, which they repeat as often as they have occasion to obey the necessities of Nature: But after Copulation their Ablutions are much more Ceremonious, for they wash their whole Body in a Bath, as they do also when a drop of Wine falls upon their Garments. I have seen some of 'em so extreamly Superstitious, that they wou'd never afterwards wear a Vest that was pulluted with Wine; tho' there are others of less scrupulous Tempers who never refuse to taste that spirituous Liquor, and even some that continue Tipling till they have quite lost their Senses.

They Pray five times a Day, in the Morning at the break of Day, at Noon, at Three a Clock in the Afternoon, at Six in the Evening, and an hour after the close of the Evening. But they go only twice to the Mosquee, to the Sabah in the Morning, and to the Quindy at Three in the Afternoon: And even many of 'em perform their public Devotions only on Friday, which is their Festival-Day, as Sunday is ours. On that day an Iman, or Priest of the Law, says a Prayer, and delivers a kind of Sermon or Exhortation to the Hearers: But the Men are too jealous to suffer any of the Fair Sex to come to the Public Places of Worship.

The Turkish Lent is shorter, but much more se∣vere than that which the Catholicks observe; for they neither Eat, Drink, nor Smoak Tobacco while the Day lasts; so that this may be justly reckon'd a very mortifying Season, especially when it happens to fall out it Summer, considering the violent Heat that reigns throughout all Asia. This Fast is call'd Ramadan, and lasts Thirty Days, du∣ring which time the Turks are oblig'd by the Al∣choran to begin their Fast every Morning assoon as they can discern a Black Thread from a White, and to continue their Abstinence till the same Hour at Night, which is proclaim'd by the Muezins and Marabouts from the top of the Minare••s. Then they let loose the Reins to their wild Desires, spending the whole Night in Gluttony and Drunkenness, and roaming about the Streets: For during this Month they turn the Day into Night, and the Night into Day, and greedily hunt after all sorts of Pleasures, to allay the severity of the Fast, which, notwithstanding all the Pains they take to sweeten it, is very disagreeable to Flesh and Blood. It ends with the Moon, and every one is so impa∣tient to see the New-Moon that releases 'em from this loath'd Constraint, that they run up to the Tops of Houses and Mountains to see their Deli∣verer rise, and assoon as they perceive her gild∣ing the Horizon, they salute her with several Bows, and the Castles proclaim the glad Tidings with re∣peated Discharges of their Artillery. The Three succeeding Days are spent in Mirth and Jollity; every Man puts on his best Cloaths, and entertains his Friends. This is properly the Turkish Easter, and is call'd the Great Bairam, to distinguish it from several Feasts or Bairams of less consequence, such as that of the Birth of Mahomet, &c.

'Twou'd be needless to tell you, that they nei∣ther eat Hog's-Flesh, nor drink Wine, and that they cannot endure Images; for these are things so com∣monly known, and so often repeated by all the Crowd of Travellers, that I cannot suppose you to be ignoront of 'em. But, perhaps, you have not so distinct an Idea of the Charity that reigns among 'em. Since they believe Alms to be the surest Atonement for Sins, they neglect no occasion of buying their future Peace. 'Tis this Principle that excites 'em to leave considerable Legacies at their Death, which, according to the Will of the De∣ceas'd, are employ'd in repairing public Fountains, building Bridges, or paying the Portions of Indi∣gent Maidens. I have already told you, that their Charity extends even to Beasts; and I shall take this occasion to add, that they are particularly kind to Dogs, tho' naturally they do not love 'em, and keep none in their Houses. Yet the Cities are full of 'em, where they wander about the Streets, and perpetuate their Kind like Wild Beasts. They are so mangy, lean, and miserable, that one wou'd think they cou'd not live a day; and I have seen some of 'em at Constantinople so near Starving, that they wou'd jump into the Sea for some Bits of Carrion which they perceiv'd at the bottom. How∣ever, since they cou'd not possibly live on what they find in the Streets, the richer sort of Turks buy Provisions for 'em, and feed 'em every Morn∣ing at their Doors with Eleemosinary Bread and Flesh. They reckon it a heinous Crime to kill a Dog, Cat, Horse, or any other Creature that is not appointed for the Food and Nourishment of Mankind: For they pretend that since Man is not the Author of their Life, he ought not to de∣prive 'em of it.

I shall take this occasion to relate the Story of an Accident that happen'd in this place, not above eight days ago. There was a Dog that us'd always to howl, when he heard the Muezin calling the People to Prayers from the Minaret. The Turks, who are Superstitious, even beyond Imagination, cou'd not behold their most Holy Rites profan'd by an Impudent Cur, without an extream Indig∣nation: Yet they durst not kill him for fear of offending GOD. However, they found out a way to chastise the daring Criminal, without provoking the Wrath of Heaven: For notwith∣standing all their Veneration for his Person, they were loath to allow him greater Privileges than they claim for themselves. After mature deliberation on such a weighty and important Case, they ven∣tur'd at last to seize him, and carry him before the Cadi, where they Indicted him as a Dgiahour, or Christian, who derided the Law of the Prophet. The Evidence was so plain, that after a full Hear∣ing poor Towzer was condemn'd to be Cudgel'd to Death, and the Sentence was immediately execu∣ted. Perhaps the oddness of this Relation may make you suspect my Veracity so far as to ima∣gine, that I Invented it on purpose to divert you: But, in short, you must either believe it, or in plain Terms give me the Lye. 'Tis true, I dare not warrant the truth of the Story I'm going to tell you, but since it relates to the same Subject, you must e'en be content to read it.

Besides the ordinary Dogs that wander about the Streets, there are others call'd Jaccals, or Chacaly, that run in the Fields, where they make a hideous noise every Night. They do not Bark like other Dogs, but have a kind of sharp or yelling Cry, peculiar to themselves.

Now (if you'll believe the Turks) the Chacaly or Wild-Dogs, in ancient Times, Inhabited the

Cities, and the other Dogs liv'd in the Fields. They were perpetual and irreconcilable Enemies to each other, and fought many bloody Battles, in one of which the Chacaly were Victorious, and the Forces of the Dogs were so shatter'd that they were oblig'd to beg a Peace, which was granted by their Generous Enemies on these favourable Terms; That the Dogs might stay in the City till their Wounds were heal'd, during which time the Chacaly shou'd retire to the Country; but that af∣terwards both Parties shou'd return to their for∣mer Habitations. These Conditions were pun∣ctually perform'd by the Chacaly, but the Dogs growing lusty and strong, resolv'd to maintain their Post, and have ever since remain'd in the City. 'Tis the remembrance of this Injury that makes the Chacaly call to the Dogs every Night in their yelling Language, and summon 'em to resign a Place which they usurp'd so unjustly; and they answer as they Bark, crying still, Yock, Yock, which, in the Turkish Language signifies No, no. But, in∣stead of insisting longer on these insipid Fables, I shall return to the Turkish Religion, which is little less absurd and ridiculous.

They are so besotted with their Conceits about Predestination, that they use no manner of precau∣tion to preserve themselves from Infectious Di∣stempers, and are offended at the Christians for taking care of their Health on such occasions. A French∣man told me the other Day, that during the time of a very violent Contagion, he perceiv'd at a distance some Turks in the Street, who were car∣rying the Body of a Man that dy'd of the Plague to his Grave. As he was turning another way on purpose to avoid meeting 'em, one of the Com∣pany ran after him, and clasp'd him in his Arms, rubbing his Body upon him several times; after which opening his Vest, and showing him a large

Plague-Sore under his right Pap, Learn, said he, not to forsake dead and dying Men. And indeed, if we reflect seriously on the little care they take to stop that raging Disease, we may reasonably con∣clude, that none of 'em cou'd escape without a kind of Miracle, if the Distemper were as Con∣tagious as 'tis generally thought to be. For they never avoid the Converse of those who come from an infected Place, and there are few Ports where there are not some Vessels that left the Plague reigning in the Towns from whence they came. Yet this neglect of the Cautions us'd by other Na∣tions on such occasions, is never attended with the least ill-consequence, unless when the dispo∣sition of the Air has a sort of natural tendency to promote and spread the Contagion, for then it bursts forth impetuously like Gun-Powder set on Fire. But this is not the Opinion of the Turks, for they absolutely deny that the Infection depends either on the Constitution of the Air, or of hu∣mane Bodies, pretending that it proceeds wholly from a supernatural Cause, and that when GOD designs to execute the fury of his Vengeance on obstinate Sinners, he sends an Army of black An∣gels to destroy 'em. They add, that every Angel receives of Bow and two sorts of Arrows, to inflict either Death or Sickness, with orders to shoot their mortal Arrows at those whom they find under the Power of Sin, and to direct the others at such who are only tainted with some Pollution. 'Tis then that Men stand most in need of the Protection of their White Angels, who intercede for 'em, and do what they can toward the Blows that are aim'd against 'em, sometimes covering a Man entirely, when they perceive a great number of Enemies ready to attack him. Yet notwithstanding all their Care, their Assistance proves oftentimes ineffectual; and therefore 'tis the Interest of every Man that re∣gards

his own Safety, to secure himself against the Vengeance of those destroying Spirits, by leading a sinless Life. The Turks pretend, that they infal∣libly perceive the Blow, when the Arrow pierces 'em: And even some Franks who have been two or three times seiz'd with the Plague, assure me, that they felt a certain Pricking in the place where the Carbuncles break forth; which is not at all improbable, since 'tis usual for such a troublesome Sensation to accompany all sorts of Tumors. But to conclude this Subject with my Letter, I shall only add, that the Plague which rages so often in these Oriental Countries, and sweeps away such vast numbers of the Inhabitants, is in some mea∣sure necessary for their Preservation. For the num∣ber of the People is augmented Yearly by at least a fifth Part, and you will be the less inclin'd to look upon this as a Paradox, if you consider that they are allow'd to marry four Wives, and to keep seve∣ral Concubines, and that there are 50000 Slaves brought every Year into Turkey. So that the Coun∣try wou'd be quickly over-stock'd with Inhabitants, and in all probability, the People wou'd be in dan∣ger of Starving, if their numbers were not lessen'd by Pestilential Distempers. And notwithstanding the terrible Havock it makes, the Land is still so full of People, that a Man wou'd think their own In∣terest shou'd make 'em forbid the Exportation of Corn, especially since they have none to spare.

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Smyrna, May, 1691.

LETTER XXI.

SIR,

I Proceed now to give you an account of the Manners and Customs of the Turks, which (you may remember) was the last of the three Subjects I undertook to Discourse of. I told you once before, and I shall take this occasion to repeat it as an undoubted Truth, that they are opposite to us al∣most in every thing: And this Opposition appears in nothing more plainly, than in their obstinate adhering to their ancient Customs. In our Coun∣try we are never at rest till we have Invented some new fashion; and Beauty it self wou'd hardly please us without the Charms of Novelty. Hence the Turks accuse the Franks of Fickleness and In∣constancy, and boast of their own strength of Mind that fixes steddily on solid Enjoyments, without deigning to take notice of Trifles. I con∣fess I was at first somewhat surpriz'd at the dif∣ference I observ'd between their Temper and ours, but after I had taken all possible care to free my self of those Prejudices that are wont in such cases to put a biass upon the Judgment, and seriously consider'd the Genius of that Nation; I found that what they call Strength of Mind, Constancy, or Soli∣dity, is at the bottom nothing else but a pure in∣sensibility, and a Weakness that is altogether inexcu∣sable in any reasonable Creature. And you will certainly be of the same Opinion when I have told you, that they are so far from studying to improve their Understandings, that in a manner they profess and glory in their Ignorance; and that their Cu∣riosity is confin'd within so narrow a compass, that

they never undertake a Voyage without some co∣vetous or sordid Design. Besides, their Indiffe∣rence and Unconcern'dness for the Public Interest; the almost Monastical Solitariness of their Life, and the Laziness of their Temper are convincing Proofs of the truth of my Assertion. 'Tis true indeed, this Character must not be extended so far as to comprehend the Principal Officers of State, or those who are engag'd in Court-Intrigues: But as for all the rest, they scarce ever look beyond the Sphere of their own Families: And provided their Wives be handsome, their Horses well Curry'd, and their Servants Submissive and Respectful, they ne∣ver give themselves the trouble of enquiring after the Affairs of the rest of the World. Contented with their Lot, they sit whole Days on a Sopha, without any other Occupation than drinking Coffee, smoaking Tobacco, or caressing their Wives: So that their whole Life is a continual Revolution of Eating, Drinking, and Sleeping, intermixt with some dull Recreations. Yet they cannot be accus'd of Luxury in Eating, for a Hen boil'd with Rice, Coriander-seed, and Sugar is the best Dish that comes before a Man of 20000 Livres a Year, and 'tis this they call Pilo. The rest of the Meal is made up with a Dish of Fish, and some Sweet-Meats, in which there is always more Honey than Sugar. When the Hour of Dinner comes, they lay upon the Sopha an Octangular or Hexagonal Table of Olive-Wood or Walnut-Tree, inlaid with Ivory, &c. and usually not above a Foot and a half in Diameter. Then having laid the Cloath, they serve up all the Dishes one after another: There are no Napkins laid upon the Table, but a Servant spreads 'em on his Master's-Knees', and stands behind him to cut his Meat; for 'tis beneath the Turkish Grandeur to do any thing for them∣selves. All their Vessels are of Earth; only the

Great Men use Porcelain: For they reckon it a very heinous Sin to eat in Silver, tho' the Trap∣pings of their Horses are usually of that Metal. They never drink at Meals, tho' they are wont to sit a considerable while; but assoon as the Table is remov'd, the Servants bring a Cup of Sorbet, and then Coffee, and Tobacco, with which they divert themselves all the rest of the Day, unless they take a fancy to go to the Women's Apart∣ment, or to play at Shells with one of their Servants, who must always suffer himself to be beaten, as he wou'd avoid a worse Beating with a Cudgel. At Night there is a Mat brought, with Sheets and a Coverlet; and they Sleep all Night in the same place where they Eat, Drunk, Play'd, and Doz'd all the Day: For they are altogether ig∣norant of the use of dark Alcoves, and Beds with double Curtains. This is their constant manner of Living, after they cease to be Youths; for betwixt the Years of Fifteen and Twenty, they spend their Time in Riding, Archery, throwing Darts, and other Exercises of that nature in which they usually at∣tain to a great Perfection. I do not think that we have any Grooms or Jockeys in Europe that exceed 'em, tho' if you saw 'em on Horseback, you wou'd think they cou'd not sit a moment. For their Stirrups are so short, that they must almost bend their Legs as much as when they sit upon a Sopha: Their Boots are of Spanish or Goat's-Lea∣ther, so wide and ill-made, that nothing can be more troublesome to a Horseman: and all the Furniture of their Horses is still more incommo∣dious. Their Saddles are as large and high as a Pack-saddle, especially before, and fasten'd on the Horse's back, with a broad Girth or Surcingle drawn over it, without which 'twou'd be impos∣sible to keep it from falling off, by reason of its weight. Instead of Bridles they use Snaffles that

wou'd be thought bad enough for a Cart-Horse in France, if they were not richly gilded. Judge, Sir, what a Figure a Man can make on the back of a Horse Trapp'd after such a manner, and what Com∣mand he can have over him. Yet I assure you the Turks rule their Horses as they please, without either Spur or Whip, instead of which they only use a Stick or Batoon three Foot long, and as big as a very large Cane, which they hold in the middle, striking the Horse sometimes with one end, and sometimes with the other, according as they wou'd have him turn to either side. I never saw Horses run so fast as these, nor stretch their Bodies to so great a length, for their Belly almost touches the Ground. The Turks have an admirable dexterity at throwing Darts on Horseback; for riding at a full Gallop, they Dart their Sticks at a Turbant, which is set up as a Mark, without once missing their Aim. And which is still more surprizing, they throw their Batoon as far before 'em as they can, then putting their Horse to the swiftest Gallop they take it up with their Hand without stopping. You will easily perceive the extraordinary difficulty of stooping so low to take the Stick from the Ground, if you re∣member what I told you of the extraordinary heighth of their Saddles and lowness of their Stir∣rups. None but Turks are able to perform this Feat of Activity, for the Franks are so far from being capable of Learning it, that they can hard∣ly ride the Horses of this Country. One of our Merchants, newly come to this place, met with an Accident t'other Day, that confirms the truth of what I was saying; for his Horse ran away with him so furiously, that he cou'd not possibly pull in his Head; and I believe he wou'd have certainly broke his Neck, if he had not been stop'd by a Greek who happen'd to meet him. This proceeded from his Ignorance of the way of stopping a Horse

in this Country; for when a Horse runs away with a Man, he must never pull the Bridle, since that wou'd only make him go the faster; but take hold of one of the Reins, and turn his Head to the Right-hand, striking him with the Rod on the other side.

'Tis none of the least Conveniencies of this Coun∣try, that the Keeping of a Horse is so cheap, that the Charge of one does not amount to above 30 Piasters a Year: 'Tis true they must be very carefully tended, and the Turks make it their principal Business to look after 'em. They visit 'em very often, and when they find 'em in a good Condition, the Saïs is always rewarded with some Caresses; but if there be any thing amiss, he may certainly expect the Baston∣nado.

Nor are their Servants more chargeable to 'em than their Horses. Their Valets de Chambre cost 'em not above 40 Piasters a year, for Wages, besides their Entertainment, which is inconsiderable: and the Servants without the House, such as the Saïs, Porters, and Gardeners, have but 25. As for their Entertainment, the Rate of their Board-Wages is fixt at a Paras a day, besides Bread. The Paras is a small Piece of course Silver, not exceeding the Va∣lue of five Dutch Liards: and yet some of 'em are such admirable Husbands, that they make a shift to save part of so poor an Allowance.

I shall in the next place proceed to give you an Account of the usual Habit of the Men. Their Breeches are long and wide, reaching down to their Heels, and close both behind and before, with leathern Stockings or Socks fasten'd to the lower part of 'em: and all this is call'd the Chascir. Their Shirts are of very fine Cotton Cloth, made exactly like a Woman's Smock, only they are much wider, especially at the Sleeves, which are always left open. Over this, instead of a Wast-Coat, they wear a Cafetan, which is a kind of a long Cassock with

narrow Sleeves, button'd at the Wrists, like the Sleeves of our Doublets. In the Summer the Cafe∣tans are made of very white Cotton Cloth, and in Winter of Silk Stuff quilted with Cotton. Besides, they are girt about the Waste with a Silken Scarf, resembling Brocard, that serves to hang their Gangi∣are or Poniard, the Handle of which is pretty large, and oftentimes made of Ivory, the Teeth of a cer∣tain Fish, or Silver, and enrich'd with Jewels either true or counterfeit. They never appear with a Sword or Sabre, but when they go into the Coun∣try: nor are the Franks suffer'd to wear one, except the Ambassadours and Consuls.

Their upper Habit is a Cloth Gown, which they call a Vest. In Summer 'tis only lin'd with Taffeta; but in Winter 'tis furr'd with a Skin, call'd Samour, which is so costly that Great Persons have some that are worth 1000 Crowns a piece. The Hair of it is black, fine, and so long, that one may hide an Egg in it; I speak only of the best sort; for there are some of all Prices. Besides they some∣times furr their Vests with Ermins, or with the Skin of a bluish sort of Weasel, or of the Musco∣via Fox; and the poorer sort with Kid, Foine, or Lambs Skin. They never put any Gold or Silver on their Cloaths, unless on Days of Ceremony, such as the Grand Signior's publick Entry, their Wed∣ding-Day, or some such Solemnity: and even then 'tis the peculiar Privilege of the Bassa's and Grandees of the Port, to wear Ornaments of that Nature. You see what a Difference there is between the Cu∣stoms of this Place, and of France, where even the Footmen are gilt all over from Head to Foot.

Beauty is the Object of the reigning Passion of the Turks: and when they speak of a handsome Woman they seem to be all transport and extasie. Yet they are oblig'd to court their Mistresses by Proxy, and even must be contented to take a Character of 'em from

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Continency, are forc'd to make use of the Privi∣lege of Keeping Concubines, or buying Slaves. For a Man must not expect to live upon Charity here, tho' the Women are not at all guilty of Cruelty: but want of Opportunity hinders 'em from bestow∣ing their Favours, and 'tis impossible for a Gallant to thrive among such cautious Husbands. There is no Slavery equal to that of the Turkish Women; for a Servant may live Twenty Years in a Family without seeing the Face of his Mistress. The Door of the Womens Apartment is a Ne plus ultra for every thing that looks like a Man, and the utmost Limit of the Womens Liberty; I mean Women of Quality, who have Baths in their Houses; for the meaner Sort must go to the public Baths at least once a Week. Notwithstanding this close Confinement, I'm inform'd that they sometimes venture upon a little Recreation; but they are seldom so bold, and the Motion must always proceed from themselves. When they are in the Humour, and have cho∣sen a promising Play-fellow, they send him a Declaration of Love by some old Confident. But wou'd you not be surpriz'd instead of a Billet-doux to find nothing but Bits of Charcoal, Scarlet Cloth, Saffron, Ashes, and such like Trash, wrapt up in a Piece of Paper. 'Tis true these are as significant as the most passionate Words; but 'tis a Mystical Lan∣guage that cannot be understood without a Turkish Interpreter. I know a Frank that once receiv'd such an Invitation, and was extremely puzzl'd to know the Meaning of it. After several successless Trials to unriddle the Mystery, he entrusted the Secret to one of the Ambassadour's Interpreters, who told him that such a Bassa's Wife desir'd him to visit her such a day, when her Husband wou'd be gone from home, and that the Woman who brought him the Message wou'd introduce him to her Apartment. At the same time he advis'd him not to go, and us'd

all the Arguments that his Experience or Prudence cou'd suggest to disswade him from exposing himself to so terrible and unavoidable a Danger. But the Frank had such a longing desire to taste so delicious a Bit as he fansi'd his Unknown Mistress to be, that he resolv'd to sacrifice all to the Dear Expectation, and went boldly to the Bassa's House at the time ap∣pointed, where he really found a kind and beautiful Lady, who put him in possession of his expected Delight, and entertain'd him with all the Joys of Love, for two days; at the end of which his Strength being quite exhausted by the laborious Plea∣sure, and finding himself altogether unfit for the Ser∣vice, he ask'd leave to be gone, and was extremely surpriz'd when his Request was deny'd, in a very harsh and uncivil Manner. Then beginning to reflect on the Interpreter's wise Admonition; he walk'd about the whole Apartment, searching in every Cor∣ner for a place where he might escape unperceiv'd. At last he came to the Laundry or Washing-House, where he found a Woman-Slave, who perceiving his Melancholy, and guessing the Cause of it, be∣gan to condole his Misfortune in a manner that made him utterly despair of Relief. For she told him that 'twas her Mistress's constant Practice to secure her own Reputation by the Death of her Lo∣vers; adding, that to her certain Knowledge above Twenty of 'em had been strangl'd since she came in∣to the Family, and that he cou'd not reasonably ex∣pect a milder Treatment than his Predecessors had met with before him. Yet, said she, since we are both Christians, I'll endeavour to save your Life, if you do not force me to hate you by refusing to grant me one Fa∣vour. I have been shut up in this place these Twenty Years, and in all that time have not seen the Face of a Man: Oblige me but once, and afterwards I shall find a way to set you at Liberty. The Terms were somewhat hard for a Man in his Condition; but since his Life was at stake, he made a Vertue of Ne∣cessity,

and perform'd as well as he cou'd. The poor Woman, who had been a Stranger so long to the Pleasure of Love, was ravish'd with the unac∣custom'd Delight; and having given him a thou∣sand Blessings, help'd him to make his Escape thro' the Chimney, which brought him to a Platform, from whence he leap'd into the Street, and has ne∣ver since found the least Inclination to make Love to a Turkish Lady; which is certainly the most dange∣rous Recreation that a Frank can chuse. The Turks require so much Modesty and Discretion in their Wives, that they wou'd never pardon 'em if they shou'd suffer a Man to see 'em, or speak to 'em: and I shall never forget what an Aga once said to Monsieur de Chateauneuf's Secretary. This Gentleman was telling the Aga after the French way, that is very indiscreetly, that he had seen and spoken with one of Mahomet the Fourth's Odalische's, who was turn'd out of the Seraglio after that Prince's Misfortune. The Turk, who cou'd not hear him longer with Pa∣tience, reply'd very angrily, that she was a base Wo∣man, and unworthy of her former Dignity. Then the Secretary endeavour'd to persuade him that she had no ill Design in what she did, and that 'twas only an innocent Curiosity that made her willing to be inform'd of the French Customs, of the Beauty of the Ladies in that Country, and of their Way of Living. But the Aga, instead of being pacify'd, continu'd to rail again the Odalische so vehemently, that the Secretary began to repent his Freedom, and to swear and protest that she was one of the most vertuous Persons in the World, and that she was not guilty of the least criminal Thought. At last the Aga, losing all Patience, reply'd in a Rage; Sir, All that you have said signifies nothing. If she had been honest, she wou'd never have suffer'd you to see her, much less to speak to her. If a Man shou'd put his

Hand into your Pocket, wou'd you excuse him for say∣ing that he did it out of pure Curiosity.

Since I have had occasion so often to mention the Turkish Women, 'twill not be improper to give you some Account of their Habit, which is not much different from that of the Men, only 'tis a great deal richer. They wear a Cafetan of Gold-Brocard, fasten'd before with large Pearls, or little Knots of Diamonds. It covers their Shoulders entirely, but 'tis cut so deep before, that their whole Breasts wou'd remain naked, if their Smock, and a little fort of Waste-Coat that comes over it, did not hide a part of 'em. This Waste-Coat sits very close to the Body, and keeps up the Breasts, which is a great Conveniency to those whose Breasts are naturally loose and swagging: so that all Defects are con∣ceal'd, and the most curious Eye can perceive no∣thing but enchanting Beauties. Above the Cafetan they wear a Leathern Girdle, cover'd with Plates and Studs of Gold and Silver, and enrich'd with preci∣ous Stones that cast a great Lustre. Their Smock is always of the finest flower'd Silk, and hangs over their Chacsir, which in Summer is only made of the same Silk, by reason of the excessive Heat. Every prudent Christian ought to keep his Eyes from glan∣cing that way; if it be possible for any Man to preserve his Reason at the Sight of the enflaming Object, for this Stuff, which is no thicker than Tif∣fany or Gawze, gives the ravish'd Beholder an al∣most unclouded View of all the most charming Beauties that are so carefully conceal'd by our La∣dies. Their upper Vest is either of Cloth or Velvet embroider'd, or of some rich sort of Cloth of Gold: In Summer 'tis furr'd with Ermin, and in Winter with Samour. Their Head-Dress is so magnificent and becoming, that you can hardly form a suitable Idea of it unless you had seen it; tho' the follow∣ing Description may in some measure satisfie your

Curiosity. Their Talpo is a pretty long Velvet-Cap, made of Eight Pieces, the outward Circle being just large enough to receive the Head; but it widens by degrees towards the Top, not unlike to a close Crown. 'Tis adorn'd with the richest Embroidery of Gold, Silver, and Pearls: and is so long, that it wou'd fall back upon the Shoulders, if it were not very artificially rais'd above the Head, where they pleit and fold it with as much Care as our Ladies do their Fontanges and Top-Knots. 'Tis also enrich'd with long Strings of Pearls curiously interwoven, and strew'd with Diamonds, Rubies, and all sorts of Jewels, besides one or two Aigrets of Diamonds. To keep it up they bind it about the Head with a Frontlet, about two Fingers breadth broad, and so rich, that it may be fitly call'd a Diadem; for 'tis cover'd all over with Gold and Precious Stones. Round this Frontlet there are little Gold Chains, with a Diamond hanging at one, an Emerald at another, &c. which dangle upon the Forehead, and on both sides of the Face. I need not tell you that such magnificent Dresses are only us'd by Bassa's Wives, for tho' Jewels are cheaper here than in Eu∣rope, they are still so chargeable, that it requires a very considerable Estate to make so great a Figure. However I can assure you that every Woman, ac∣cording to her Ability, decks her self to the best Advantage; and the whole Dowry, or the Money that is given by the Father, is laid out on Orna∣ments for the Bride. But when a Woman's Porti∣on is not sufficient to purchase so many Jewels, she must content her self with a plain Frontlet of Gold, or Silver-gilt; and some that cannot reach so high, only tye an embroider'd Handkerchief about their Talpo's, which is the Dress of the poorest Sort, and even the meanest Cobler's Wife will not appear with∣out it. As for their Hair, they make it up into a long Tress, about the breadth of four Fingers, that

falls backward, and sometimes reaches to their Heels; and they whose Hair is not becoming, en∣deavour to supply that Defect, by mixing false Hair among it. Besides, there is a little Curl on each side of the Forehead, that runs along the Face: And they are very careful to keep these Curls in Order, and to dye 'em Black with a certain Com∣position, that serves also to dye their Brows, which are always extremely handsome: For they take care to have 'em shap'd with a Razor, and after∣wards apply to the shav'd Parts a certain Paste, call'd Pilo, which hinders the Hair from grow∣ing.

In Turkey, as well as in Europe, the Women generally Paint; for tho' they're asham'd to acknowledge it, I met with a Greekish Woman, who scrupl'd not to con∣fess that few of her Sex abstain from that Custom. Their White Paint is a sort of very thick Grease, which I cannot describe, since I had not the Curiosity to enquire how they make it. But as for their Red Paint, 'tis nothing else but Cochineel, prepar'd with Cream of Tartar, and boil'd so long till there re∣mains only a Tenth Part of the Composition. They use it with so much Success, that I believe it might serve for Spanish Vermilion, and even is, in my Opinion, more natural. They also Paint their Nails Red, but not with Cochineel.

The Turkish Women are the most charming Creatures in the World: They seem to be made for Love; their Actions, Gestures, Discourse, and Looks are all Amorous, and admirably well fitted to kindle a soft and lasting Passion. Since they have nothing else to do, they make it their only Business to Please; which they do so successfully, and in so natural and easie a Manner, that few Husbands take the benefit of the Law, that allows 'em to divorce their Wives when they please. This seems so strange and surprizing, that I cannot for∣bear

reckoning it a sort of Prodigy, when I reflect on the Genius of all other Nations: For Men are usually quite cloy'd with the Pleasures of Matri∣mony in three or four Years; and if a Maid had nothing else but her Person to recommend her to a Husband, she might e'en despair of ever tasting the lawful Joys of the Bed. Whereas in this Coun∣try, instead of enriching or maintaining their Hus∣bands, they put 'em to so prodigious a Charge, that none but Persons of high Quality are able to keep four Wives. The extreme Neatness of the Turkish Women is none of their least considerable Charms; and this extraordinary Cleanness is an effect of their Bathing at least once a Week; for the nicer sort bathe twice. I think I told you be∣fore that Women of Quality have the convenien∣cy of Bathing at Home; and that the rest go to the common Baths. I must now add, that the Virtue, and even the Modesty of a Woman is as secure in the Public, as in the Private Baths; for Men are forbidden to enter into these Sacred Pla∣ces under pain of Death. These Baths are large Halls built of Marble, and cover'd with vaulted Roofs in form of Domes; on the Top of which there are Glass-Windows to let in the Light, without suffering the Heat to evaporate. There are no Windows in the Walls, that the Women may undress themselves without fear of exposing their Naked Beauties to the Observation of some Curi∣ous Enquirer into the Works of Nature; and be∣sides, they take care to cover their Distinguishing Parts with a Cloth wrapt about their Belly, and tied on the Back. Then they Sweat a quarter of an Hour or longer; and for the Conveniency of those who are desirous to bathe in Water, there is in the same Place a Va•• or Bathing-Tub, which they fill with hot Water by turning a Cock, tempering and allaying it when 'tis excessively

hot, by turning another Cock that lets in cold Water. There are Waiting-Women always ready to attend those who come to bathe, who for a small Reward crack all the Joynts of their Arms, Legs, and Thighs. At the same time they anoint the hairy Parts of the Body with Pilo, which makes the Hair fall off, and leaves the Skin extremely white and smooth. The Men have their Baths apart, and are serv'd after the same manner.

There are three sorts of Recreations us'd by the Turks; Gaming, Musick, and Dancing. You may perceive by the Account I gave you of their Games, that they are neither Pleasant nor Ingenious: And I shall take this occasion to tell you, that their Mu∣sick is rather a hideous Dinn than a regular Har∣mony, and resembles exactly the howling Shrieks of a tortur'd Wretch. The first time I heard a Turk sing, I cou'd not forbear stopping to look up∣on him, concluding that he was certainly Mad: For I cou'd not imagine that a Man who had the use of his Reason, wou'd take pleasure in distort∣ing his Body, and rolling his Eyes in so odd and extravagant a manner; tho' they pretend that all those unusual Motions are only the Marks and Effects of a tender and violent Passion. Their Mu∣sical Instruments are extremely suitable to the Na∣ture of their Harmony: For they have a kind of Violin with three Strings, a Neck as long as a Man's Arm, and a great Belly like the Block of a Hat; some ill-contriv'd Flutes; little Timbrels about the bigness of one's Fist, a Drum, some paultry Haut∣bois, and several little Brazen Targets, which they hold in their Hands, and knock against one ano∣ther. Judge, Sir, what a mad Consort they make with the confus'd jangling of so many inharmoni∣ous Instruments. The only tolerable Instrument they have is the Psalterion, which is cover'd with Latten Strings, stretcht as upon a Harpsical; and

they strike upon 'em with little Sticks, which they hold betwixt their two Fingers. All the Wo∣men play admirably well on this Instrument, for 'tis their usual Diversion in their Chambers, e∣specially the Greeks, whose Musick may be heard with Pleasure, since 'tis a great deal more agree∣able than that of the Turks. I shall only add on this Subject, that neither of 'em sing the Notes without the Words; and our way of singing Tunes seems so ridiculous to 'em, that they usual∣ly laugh at the Franks, and ask 'em what their Tartara lera signifies.

Their Dances are also of different kinds. Those which are us'd by Persons of Quality are taught by Masters and Mistresses, the first being appointed to teach Men, and the others Women. Tho' they are all very grave, there is a great deal of Action requir'd in the Hands and Arms; and the finest part of the Dance consists in the graceful and dex∣terous Motions of those Parts: For the Beauty and Niceness of the Step cannot be well distin∣guish'd by reason of those troublesome Chacsirs that hide the whole Legs. The Turks never give any Balls, for they always Dance single; and the Dan∣cing of two Persons together wou'd be reckon'd a Crime, or at least an indecency among 'em. Thus after one Person has entertain'd the Compa∣ny for some time, the Spectators express their Ap∣probation by repeated clapping of Hands. Besides 'tis to be observ'd, that the Women never Dance but when they are invited to the Wedding of some of their Relations, or when they make a familiar Visit to some of their She-Friends, which happens very unfrequently. Yet there are some Publick Dancing-Women, who go to Private Families when they are call'd, and Dance before 'em in the most Lascivious manner imaginable: For they wriggle their Backs, roll their Eyes, seem to swoo••

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The Turkish Dancing P. 276

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away, and put their Bodies into a Thousand ob∣scene Postures, which the most shameless Strum∣pets in Europe wou'd hardly be persuaded to imi∣tate.

Dancing is most in use among the Peasants, who without pretending to Art, or learning any regular Steps, put their Bodies into such odd and extrava∣gant Postures, that the nimblest Dancing-Master wou'd be extremely puzl'd to imitate. They seem to be actually possess'd with a Devil, and from Time to Time break forth into such loud and fu∣rious Shouts, that one wou'd certainly conclude 'em to be acted by some Daemon, if he did not know that all these Motions are only feign'd Transports. They usually hold a great Stick in their Hands, with which they beat the Walls and Ground in a furious and terrible Manner, and continue those violent Agitations of their Feet, Hands, and Head, till their Weariness and want of Strength oblige them to give over; and even sometimes they Dance till they fall down in a sort of Extasie or Fit of Dizziness. I had the Pleasure to see all those va∣rious kinds of Dances at Constantinople, in Monsieur de Chateauneuf's House, on the Day appointed to so∣lemnize the Publick Joy for the advantageous Suc∣cess of the Campagne against the Christians. And these Diversions were succeeded by a certain odd kind of Show, perform'd by the Jews. Since all sorts of Figures are an abomination to the Turks, there were Puppets represented in Shadows on the Wall, which Danc'd and Sung to the Satisfaction of all the Company, as it appear'd by their Laugh∣ing and pleasant Humour. I cou'd not understand the Words of their Songs, but if I may be allow'd to judge of their Expressions by their Postures, they were certainly very obscene; for I never saw any thing so brutish as the Representations of those Shadows. Nor will this appear strange to those

who consider that the Turks are more addicted to that infamous Vice for which Sodom and Gomorrha were destroy'd, than any other Nation in the World; and that the Advancement of one half of the great Officers in the Empire, is an Effect of their base Complaisance to their beastly Patrons. Thus the Turkish Songs are doubly naufeous to the Franks, who are not accustom'd to such horrid Impurities.

The Puppet-Show was follow'd by another of almost the same Nature. Four Jews ty'd certain Sticks cross-wise to their Wrists and Feet, and clothing them like Men and Women, plac'd them∣selves all under one Covering; then the first stretch∣ing out one of his Arms, made the half Figures Dance and Sing; after him came another; then a third; and at last the eight Arms of the four Jews perform'd several extravagant Motions on the Co∣vering, accompany'd with a confus'd Din; after which they stood upon their Heads, and discover∣ing eight larger Figures that were fastned to their Feet, entertain'd the Company with another Show exactly like the former.

I had occasion in some of my former Letters to mention the rest of the Turkish Customs; and you may conclude that what I have omitted is either inconsiderable, or very particularly describ'd by o∣ther Travellers. And therefore I shall conclude this Subject after I have added one or two Observati∣ons concerning their Civility. They seldom make any Visits, but when they come to treat of Busi∣ness; and those who do are always entertain'd with Perfumes, Coffee, and Sherbet, as in the Account I gave you of Monsieur de Chasteauneuf's Reception at the Caimacan's House. The Left-hand is reckon'd the Place of Honour, because 'tis next the Heart; and when they salute, instead of pulling off their Turbants, they lay their Hands upon their Breast,

and at the same time bow their Bodies, which they repeat several times when they wou'd express a more than ordinary Affection to the Person whom they salute. This is the whole Ceremony of a simple Salutation; but when they intend to show a profound Respect, they must not only lay their Hand upon their Breast, but make several low Bows, and with all the signs of Humility kiss the lower part of the Person's Vest; after which they stand upright, and continue still to keep their Hand up∣on their Breast, or even sometimes both Hands, while they are in the presence of him whom they wou'd respect. When he goes abroad, they must make a Lane for him, as they see his Servants do, and sa∣lute him with a low Bow as he passes by. Besides, in the Absence of the Servants, they usually pre∣sent their Hands to hold him under the Arms when he goes up or down Stairs, or Mounts his Horse, and on some other Occasions of the same Nature; But when his Servants are present, 'tis their Office to offer their Assistance to their Master. When a Frank makes a Visit to his Turkish Friends, they still present him with a Pipe after his Coffee; which is a very troublesom piece of Civility to those who have so strong an Aversion to Tobacco as I have, especial∣ly considering the peremptory Stiffness of the Turks, who will not admit of the most reasonable Excuse. Some great Persons smoak a sort of perfum'd To∣bacco, like that of which Spanish Snuff is made; but our Franks never use any of that kind.

I have had occasion five or six times to speak of their Persons of Quality, without acquainting you with the Nature of their Grandeur and Nobility; and therefore I shall conclude this Letter with a short Account of it. You must not imagine that these are Persons of an Ancient and Noble Extra∣ction; for tho' there may be some of 'em that are honourably descended, the greatest part of 'em

owe their Advancement merely to Fortune, or are the Creatures of some Bassa; and their first Preferments are only the Rewards of their Ser∣vice. Thus we frequently see that a poor Slave is advanc'd by degrees to the highest Dignities in the Empire; and it may be said in the ge∣neral, that Riches are the Fountain of Honour in Turkey. This Reflexion puts me in Mind of a blunt Repartee that was made to the Marquess de la Marzelliere by one of these Pretenders to Nobility. This Marquess was descended of one of the most illustrious Families in Bretaigne, and yet scrupl'd not to marry a Citizen's Daughter of St. Malo's, who brought him a Portion of Two hundred thou∣sand Pounds. However, it seems, her Brother, whose Fortune was equal to hers, did not think himself much honour'd by this Allyance; for imagining that the Lustre of his Gold was bright enough to make amends for the Obscurity of his Birth, he wou'd never be persuaded to shew the least respect to his Brother-in-Law. One Day as they were di∣sputing about some Points of Honour, after several angry Replies, he told the Marquess he knew no Reason why he shou'd be so proud of a Title, and at last added, that he was as good a Marquess as himself. Marquess of what? said Monsieur de la Mar∣zelliere; Of what? reply'd he, I'm Marquess of Two Hundred Thousand Crowns in good Lewis d'Ors.

I have made it my Business to be acquainted with the Arch-Bishop of this Place, who is a Person of Wit and Merit, and has given me a particular Ac∣count of the principal Differences between the Grae∣cian and Romish Religions; which I intend shall be the Subject of my next Letter.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Smyrna, June 1691.

LETTER XXII.

SIR,

AFter the general Idea I have given you of the Religion and Customs of the Turks, you will perhaps expect an Account of their Christian Sub∣jects, the Greeks, and read with pleasure some Re∣marks on a Subject of which I have often observ'd that even the more inquisitive part of our European World have but a very slight and confus'd Noti∣on.

The present Condition of this Nation is so mi∣serable, and so apt to produce all the most tender Motions of Compassion in those who se∣riously reflect upon it, that 'twou'd be needless to heighten the Gloominess of the Prospect by com∣paring it with their former Glory, which after a long and fatal Eclipse, was restor'd to its ancient Splendor by Constantine the Great, whose Memory will last till the final Period of the World. But the Empire of the East, which he founded, and u∣nited to that of the West, was divided again after his Death, and continu'd in a declining Condition till the final Overthrow of the Palaeologi by the Turks, in the Fifteenth Age; since which time the Greeks have still been Slaves in a Country of which they were formerly Sovereigns; and to redeem them∣selves from the Yoak under which they are born, they are forc'd to pay a yearly Tribute, call'd the Carache, which is only impos'd upon them, and their Fellow-Slaves the Jews. The Carache is a per∣petual Poll-Tax, and exceeds not four Piasters a Man; and yet since 'tis a Mark of their Bondage, they have left no Means unessay'd to deliver them∣selves

from it, and have even offer'd to raise more considerable Summs another way. Besides, there are oftentimes large Avanies impos'd upon 'em, which they levy among themselves, according to the proportion of their Estates. All their Patri∣archs, Bishops, and Abbots are also oblig'd to pay for their Patents; and the Prices that are exacted of 'em cannot but amount to a very conside∣rable Summ, since there are above five Thousand Arch-Bishops and Bishops in the Turkish Empire, who, reckoning one with another, pay above two Thousand Piasters a-piece, as a Fine to the Grand Signior. The Greeks are naturally Proud, and lovers of Pomp and Magnificence: Most of 'em spend higher than their Estates will bear, and are very fond of the Title of Chelety or Lord. Yet even the richest of 'em, of which there is a consi∣derable Number, are look'd upon as Objects of Scorn and Contempt by the Turks. 'Tis true, they are not insensible of their Slavery, and perhaps wou'd willingly shake off the insupportable Yoak of their Domineering Masters; but the Natural Impatience of their Temper is more than sufficient∣ly curb'd by their Weakness, and want of Power; and they must e'en content themselves with repi∣ning in secret at the resistless Tyranny of their Op∣pressors: For they are seldom or never able to ob∣tain Satisfaction for the Injuries they receive from the Turks, if the Offenders are not wholly destitute both of Friends and Money.

The Habit of the Greeks is very different from that of the Turks. They are not permitted to wear a white Turbant; nor must their Turbants be of the same bigness with those that are us'd by the Turks, nor folded after the same manner: For they only wrap a little piece of Course Cloth, either blue or strip'd with blue, two or three times about their Caps; and even usually they wear none at all, but

content themselves with a little red Cap which is not large enough to cover their Ears. Instead of a Vest they have only a plain Wast-coat, which is ve∣ry short, and open before; and over that they wear another that meets on the side. Neither ought they to wear a Chacsir after the Turkish Fashion; for their Breeches are very short, and reach not below the Knee. And besides, they are distinguish'd from the Turks by their red Babouches; for those that are us'd by the Turks are yellow. Thus I have given you a short Account of the Habit of the Greeks; but tho' most of 'em do, and all of 'em are oblig'd to wear it, some of the richer sort are so far from observing these Regulations, that they can scarce be distinguish'd from the Turks but by their Turbants: And even all Persons of Note, whether Franks or Greeks, put on white Turbants when they go out of the City, as I have had occasion to see above fifty times. The Turks have of late conniv'd at those Innovations; but they have still such a veneration for Green, that the Greeks dare not pre∣sume to wear it: nor wou'd it be safe for Franks to wear Green in the midst of Constantinople, tho' I have often seen 'em make bold with that sacred Co∣lour. Since the Women are generally invisible, they are not oblig'd to observe these Marks of Di∣stinction; and the only difference between their Habit and way of Dressing, and that of the Turks, is that they must, as well as the Men, abstain from wearing Green. Nor is there a less Resemblance be∣tween 'em in their Manners and Customs, and in their solitary way of living; tho' they find so much sweetness in the Freedom that prevails among us, that they whose Husbands or Fathers have frequent Occasions to converse with Franks, are easily dis∣pos'd to renounce their wonted Severity. They are lovers of Pleasures, Dancing, and magnificent Ha∣bits; and will fix a Passion upon a Man whether

he will or not. But the poor Frank that suffers himself to be noos'd, must resolve either to be Hen-peck'd, or a Cuckold: He must adore his Graecian Spouse; he must furnish her with the rich∣est Habits, and keep a numerous Train of Slaves to attend her; or, if any of these things be wanting, 'Ware Horns. For the Franks have an excellent Fa∣culty at curing a handsome Lady of the grumbling Disease, and are always ready to do a kind Office to a Country-man's Wife.

The Greek Dances are extremely pleasant, and full of Mirth. They are of two kinds: The first is a sort of Country-Dance or Couranto, danc'd by Pairs; and the second a kind of Gavote or Branle, in which the Men and Women are mingl'd, as at Passepied in France; only you must hold in your right-hand the Left-hand of your Left-hand Wo∣man, and in your Left the Right-hand of he•• that is on your Right-hand. The Man who lead•• the Dance holds the Corner of a Handkerchi•••• and gives the other to his Lady, that he may hav•• room enough to take his Measures, and to giv•• the Dance what Figure or Turn he pleases. A•• first they begin very gravely with a Saraband-Ste•• two Steps forwards and three backwards: The•• mending their pace by degrees, they begin to le•••• and run, yet still observing the Rules of a Harmo•• nious Motion; so that the Dance becomes very Gay and Amorous: For the Women leaping on•• Step forwards, draw their Bodies backwards with a certain pretty Turn that cannot be call'd immo∣dest, yet gives a Man occasion to think of some∣thing more than he sees. And besides, the Mu∣sick contributes very much to the pleasantness of their Dances, for their Tunes are extremely Brisk and Airy.

[illustration]

The Dancing of the Greeks P. 284

The fittest time to take the pleasure of viewing their way of Dancing, is when they are met at a Wedding; for on such Occasions they give them∣selves up to Joy and Pleasure, drinking, eating, and sporting, and indulging themselves in all man∣ner of Diversions. The next Morning the young Woman's Relations make a Visit to the new∣marry'd Couple, and examine the Bridegroom con∣cerning his Wife's Virginity: Then they take the Bride's Bloody Smock, and expose it to the View of all the Company, as if it were some rare Cu∣riosity. The Jews observe the same Custom at the Marriage of a Maid, and are even nicer and more scrupulous in this Point than the Greeks; for if the Bride's Honesty be not confirm'd by the Blood that appears on her Smock, her Reputation is irrecoverably lost, and she is immediately di∣vorc'd from her Husband. They unanimously a∣gree in believing that this is an infallible Mark of Virginity: And this Opinion is so generally receiv'd thro' all Asia and Africa, that if a Man shou'd endeavour to contradict it, he wou'd expose himself to the Laughter and Derision of all that shou'd hear him. The Italians are also persuaded of the Certainty of this Experiment, tho' they ab∣stain from making a Shew of the Bloody Smock, for fear of exposing their own Shame; but the Husband examines his Bride very narrowly, and if he finds her not such as he expects and desires, 'tis in vain for her to endeavour by the most so∣lemn Protestations to convince him of her Innocen∣cy. Nevertheless this way of trying the Chastity of a Maid is esteem'd uncertain and ridiculous by the French, and even by Chirurgeons; nor can I reflect without a certain Wonder and Astonish∣ment on this Diversity of Opinions concerning a Question that one wou'd think might have been fully decided by so many repeated Experiments;

for I see no reason to believe that our Country-Women are fram'd after another manner than the rest of their Sex. But leaving this Controversie to be decided by others who are better acquainted with the Works of Nature, I shall proceed in the Account I promis'd to give you of the most re∣markable Graecian Customs, among which I cannot forbear taking notice of one that seems to be pecu∣liar to this Nation. On Easter-Day, and during the three following Weeks, they salute one another with three Kisses, one on the Mouth, and one on each Cheek, at the same time repeating these Words, Christos anesti, that is, Christ is risen. At other times their familiar Salutation is the same with that which is us'd by the Turks: But when they design to shew a more than ordinary Respect to a Man, they kiss his Hand, and then lay it upon their Heads. They observe the same Custom when they receive a Present, if it be not either too heavy or bulky: For this Ceremony of laying a Man's Hand upon their Head, is a Mark both of their Respect and Gratitude. When a Woman accom∣panies her Husband in a Visit to a Person of Qua∣lity, such as a Consul, whether they come to treat of Bus'ness, or only out of Civility, she stands direct∣ly behind her Husband; and when the Visiter brings his Daughters along with him, they place themselves at one another's Back behind their Mo∣ther; so that the Husband standing in the Front of the File, hides all his Female Train; and when they intend to go out, they make a half-Turn to the Right, and the Daughters march out first, to avoid the Indecency of appearing in a Stranger's Presence.

In pursuance of the Method I propos'd to fol∣low, I shall in the next place consider their Reli∣gion. I'm oblig'd to my Friend, the Archbishop, for the following Account, which perhaps will

give you a clearer Idea of this Subject than you can draw from the Relations of others. For there are some who pretend that the Greeks are only Schis∣maticks, or bare Separatists from the Romish Church; whereas others stretch the Point too far on the other side, and make their Differences in matter of Doctrine appear greater and more irreconcilable than they really are.

They acknowledge only One visible Church of God, without which there is no Salvation, unless in the Case of a sudden Conversion at the Hour of Death.

They believe that the Apostles instituted five Pa∣triarchs to govern the Church upon the Earth, who were seated at Rome, Alexandria, Constantinople, An∣tioch, and Jerusalem, and under them several Arch∣bishops, Bishops, and inferiour Pastors. All the Members of this Hierarchy have a Right to exer∣cise a Spiritual Jurisdiction over those that are sub∣ordinate to 'em, and to inflict Ecclesiastical Cen∣sures. But the Patriarchs can only admonish one another, and can neither be punish'd nor depos'd for their Offences but by the Sentence of a Gene∣ral Council. Yet their Power does not extend so far as to enable 'em to introduce new Laws into the Church, and they wou'd be laught at if they shou'd attempt to grant Indulgencies. The Bishop of Rome is the first of the Patriarchs; nor do any of the rest pretend to dispute with him for Precedency: But they refuse to submit to that ab∣solute Power he has assum'd in the West, by ta∣king Advantage of the Superstition and Simplicity of the People, and the Connivance of the Princes. 'Tis plain that the Greek Bishops had Reason to re∣fuse their Consent to the Introduction and Esta∣blishment of a Tyrannical Power in the Church, since they cou'd not but foresee that it wou'd pro∣duce very fatal and pernicious Consequences: And

yet this is the only Cause that made the Pope discharge his Thunders against 'em, and declare 'em Schismaticks; thus violently breaking the sacred Union of the Church, for the Preservation of which he ought to have spent the last Drop of his Blood. For this reason the Greeks are not con∣tented with returning the Charge of Schism upon the Roman Church, but pretend that they never actually separated from the Communion of Rome, since they have not establish'd a Fifth Patriarch, and still acknowledge the Pope to be the first Bishop in the World, and that therefore they cannot with the least Shadow of Justice be blam'd for the Fault of another, or said to separate from a Church which has violently driven 'em out of her Communion. I know not whether this is the Opinion of the whole Greek Church; tho' I cannot reasonably decline giving Credit to a Thing which I have heard so often con∣firm'd with repeated Protestations by the Archbishop of Smyrna, who is esteem'd one of the most learned Doctors of that Church in this Age. However, I took the Liberty to ask him why they did not send their Bishops to the last Councils that were held in the West, in which all their Differen∣ces might have been amicably terminated. He reply'd, that their Absence wou'd be easily excus'd by those who consider the Severity of the Yoak under which they groan; and that the sending of Deputies to the Councils wou'd have given a ter∣rible Umbrage to the Grand Signior, who wou'd have been apt to suspect that these Bishops were sent to contrive a Rebellion against him, and to plot the Ruine of his Empire; and to deliver him∣self from the danger of a Revolt, might have been easily persuaded to have put the whole Nation un∣der Military Execution. This Answer seem'd so reasonable, and agreeable to the Truth, that I was oblig'd to acknowledge my self intirely satis∣fy'd.

Thus I have given a short Account of the Occasion of the fatal Breach that divides the Eastern and Western Churches, and of the Reasons alledg'd by the Greeks to free themselves of the Imputation of Schism. I shall in the next Place examine the Points of Doctrine in which they dif∣fer from the Romans.

The Difference between these Churches may be reduc'd to five Articles, of which only two are Fundamentals: For tho' the other three are of con∣siderable Moment, they wou'd not be sufficient to excuse a Separation. The first is the Procession of the Holy Ghost, who in their Opinion proceeds not from the Son, but only from the Father. To illustrate and confirm this Doctrine, the Archbishop told me, that the Three Persons of the Trinity were only di∣stinguish'd by their different Operations and Attri∣butes; That the Property of the Father was to be∣get without being begotten; That of the Son, to be eternally begotten, without begetting; and that of the Holy Ghost to inspire and sanctifie our Hearts. I reply'd, That it did not necessarily fol∣low, because the Son was begotten, that he cou'd not co-operate with the Father in the Procession of the Holy Ghost: But he wou'd not acknowledge the force of this Reason, pretending that we cou'd not ascribe to the Son the Attribute of Generation, that belongs only to the Father, without overturn∣ing the Order, and confounding the Persons of the Trinity. Then he repeated what he had said before, that the Persons were only distinguish'd by their Attributes; f••om whence he concluded that the latter cou'd not be confounded without con∣founding the former. And for a farther Confir∣mation of his Opinion, he shew'd me a large Vo∣lume of S. Athanasius, printed at Venice, with the Latin on one side, and the Greek on the other, and made me take Notice of two Passages, which I

transcrib'd, but have unhappily lost the Paper. However, tho' I cannot at present call to Mind the very Words of the Author. I remember that in the first Passage he spoke of the Holy Ghost's proceeding from the Father, without mentioning the Son. I reply'd, that the Question was not whether the Holy Ghost proceeded from the Father; and that the Author whom he cited did not deny his Procession from the Son. But I was oblig'd to acknowledge that the same Answer wou'd not serve to elude the positive Authority of another Passage which he shew'd me in the Nicene Creed, where 'tis expressly said, à solo Patre procedens. Thus my Mouth was stopt on this Subject, as well as on the former; and I must leave the Decision of this Controversie to those whose Profession obliges 'em to search into these Mysteries.

The second difference between the Romish and Greek Churches, is concerning the Doctrine of Purgatory, which the latter expressly denies, affirming, with us, that 'tis absolutely injurious to the Merit and Satisfa∣ction of Christ: Yet they pretend there is a certain Baptismal Fire, through which every one must pass before he can be admitted into Paradise. They believe that the Souls of Just Persons at their Separation from the Body, go into a Third Place, of the same Nature with the Romish Lim∣bo's, where they must remain till the Day of Judg∣ment, at which Time a sudden Fire shall dissolve the World in an Instant, and purifie the Souls of the Righteous, who after their final Judgment, shall be receiv'd into everlasting Glory. To con∣firm this Doctrine, they alledge that Passage of the Scripture which speaks of the Souls that rest under the Altar: But after all, this Opinion seems not to be so well grounded as the former; for if the Dead are not in a suffering Condition, I know

not what Reason they can give to justifie their praying for 'em.

The third Point is the Communion under both kinds: for they give the Sacrament to the People in a Spoon, in which the Bread and Wine are mixt to∣gether.

The Fourth is concerning Leaven'd Bread, which they use in the Consecration of the Sacra∣ment.

The Fifth and last Point in which they differ from those of the Romish Persuasion is the Celibacy of the Clergy: For a simple Priest is allow'd to mar∣ry once, but must never proceed to a second Mar∣riage. The Priests wear the Violet-colour'd Habit of a Bishop, and a Cap of the same Colour, with a little blue Turbant; and behind their Cap there hangs a piece of Cloth of the same Colour a∣bout half a Foot long and broad, which falls back on their Shoulders. Besides these Priests, there are certain Religious Persons under a Vow of Chastity; and out of their Number the Bishops, and even the Pastors, are chosen, whom they call Papa's: They eat no Flesh, and wear long Hair, without ever touching it with Scissors: They al∣so suffer their Beards to grow without shaving or clipping 'em, which disfigures their Faces, and makes 'em seem very ugly. They wear a large black Gown or Robe, not much different from our Night-Gowns; only their Sleeves are wider, and button'd before; and the Neck is like that of a Cassock. Their Caps are made of Felt, flat beneath like the Block of a Hat, and wou'd be very deep, if they were not cut before; so that the whole Face appears, but the Ears and hinder∣part of the Head are cover'd. Over this they wear a Kerchief of black Serge, which hangs o∣ver their Shoulders. This Habit is generally us'd by all religious Persons, Pastors, Bishops, and Arch∣bishops,

without any Mark of Distinction; only the Bishops carry in their Hands a Pastoral Staff of Ebony, eight Foot long, with an Ivory Ball on the Top. The Bishops are not usually rich, but they are no less respected by their Clergy than our French Prelates are by theirs. Their Churches are built after the manner of ours, but without the least appearance of Pomp or Grandeur. They have a Quire where the Priests place themselves, with those that come to confess; and a Place for the Church-Wardens, with a Crucifix, or a Saint, to which every one presents an Offering. The Bishops do not observe so much State as in France; for my Curiosity having one Day carry'd me to see 'em Officiate, the Archbishop rose up to sa∣lute me, and made me sit down by him on one of the Seats in the Quire, whither a Priest con∣ducted me by his Order; after which they brought me some Frankincense, as they do to all Persons of Note of their own Nation. Their Pontifical Habit is so singular and odly contriv'd, that 'twou'd be a hard Task to represent it distinctly; and therefore I will neither undertake the De∣scription of that, nor of their Ceremonies and Rites of Worship. I shall only add, that when they enter the Church, they take some Holy-Water, and make five large Signs of the Cross, at each of which they make a very low Bow, repeat∣ing the same Ceremony when they go out, to commemorate the five Wounds of our Savi∣our.

It has been so positively asserted by so many celebrated Divines, that the Doctrine of Transub∣stantiation is not acknowledg'd by the Greek Church, that I dare hardly venture to contradict 'em. How∣ever, since neither Interest not Authority ought to deterr us from owning the Truth, I'm resolv'd at all Adventures to undeceive you of so vulgar an

Error. 'Tis plain that the Authors of those Relations, on whose Credit that Opinion is grounded, were either deceiv'd themselves, or intended to deceive their Readers; unless perhaps to soften the harshness of that Censure you had rather believe that they speak of some obscure Sect, which is not known in thi•• Countrey: For I can assure you that the Greeks at Constantinople and Smyrna are as firmly perswaded of the truth of that Doctrine as the most zealous Romanists; and the only reason why they do not kneel at the Elevation of the Host, is because their manner of Adoration is different from ours. Nor do they worship the Sacrament less devoutly by bowing their Body, and smiting their Breast, tho' they stand all the while on their Feet, than we do by prostrating our selves on the Ground; and therefore we ought rather to consider the In∣tention of their Mind than the Posture of their Body. But this is not all; for they have a Cu∣stom which may serve for a convincing Proof of their Belief of that Opinion. On Good-Friday they walk in Procession to the French Church, to adore the Sacrament which is expos'd there, and even pay five hundred Piasters to the Turks that they may be suffer'd to perform their Devotions there on that Occasion: So true it is that they are not willing to be separated from the Church of Rome. You may depend upon the Certainty of this Sto∣ry; for I can assure you of the Truth of it on the Faith of an Eye-Witness.

They have a great Number of Images; and their Devotion to 'em is not at all inferior to that which prevails in the Church of Rome. But I must confess there is a great Difference in the Structure and Workmanship of the Images; for whereas in our Country they may, for the most part, be reckon'd so many Master-pieces of Art, whether we consi∣der the Regularity of the Design, the Disposition

of the Lights and Shades, or the Beauty of the Colours. The Greeks are of Opinion, and scruple not to say, that the Pictures of the Saints, as they are represented in the Roman Churches are more proper to raise Criminal Desires, than to inspire the Minds of the Spectators with Devoti∣on. And therefore to avoid the dangerous Con∣sequences of that Abuse, they confine themselves to a certain Antick way of Painting, which is extremely unnatural, especially in their Figures of Virgins, who are almost all represented black, and so muffled up in Kerchiefs and Gowns, that you can scarce distinguish their Faces. And their Painters are so ignorant, and so little acquainted with the Beauties of the Art they profess, that they cannot so much as copy a Head. Nor am I at all surpriz'd at the Unskillfulness of these pretended Artists; for their Method is directly op∣posite to that of our Painters: First they lay on the Shades, and design the entire Figure, after which they proceed to the Disposition of the Light; which is the most preposterous Method cou'd be imagin'd.

The Armenians are not so scrupulous in this Point, tho' they profess almost the same Articles of Faith; for they make use of the modern way of Painting; and there is at present on their High Altar an Image of the Virgin, made by a French-man, which shews so much of her Breasts that I shou'd be almost Jealous if my Mistress were painted after that Manner. Nevertheless you must not suspect them of Libertinism; for I never heard of any Religious Order, except the Monks of Trape, that observe such mortifying Fasts. They keep four Lents, which lasts one half of the Year, like those that are observ'd by the Greeks:. But the Armen••∣••ns do not allow themselves so much Liberty as the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of their Fellow Christians; for they abstain from eating Flesh, Fish, and even Shell-Fish, Butter,

Milk, Cheese, and every thing that has or ever had Life; which may be justly reckon'd a very severe piece of Mortification. Their Bishop has put him∣self under the Protection of France, to deliver himself from the insupportable Exactions of the Turks; and 'tis but a very little while ago since he was freed from Prison, where he had lain six Months. He is a very honest and civil Person, and diligent in performing the Duties of his Fun∣ction. His Habit is almost the same with that of the Greek Bishop, only he wears a Hood or Cawle at the Neck of his Gown, and carries in his Hand a Cross, like that which is us'd by the Roman Bi∣shops, only 'tis made of Wood. This puts me in Mind of what a certain Author said concerning the Ancients, That they were Golden Bishops tho' they wore Wooden Crosses; and I may safely ven∣ture to apply that Saying to this Prelate.

To return to the Greeks; I had almost forgot to take Notice of one of their Opinions in which they differ from those of the Romish Persuasion. You have doubtless observ'd that the Romanists have an extreme Veneration for those Persons whose Bodies remain free from Putrefaction after their Death; and that the Incorruption of the Body is reckon'd a convincing Mark of the Holiness of the Deceas'd, and is one of the most considerable Proofs that can be offer'd for the Canonization of the Saint; whereas the Greeks pretend that 'tis only an Effect of Excommunication; and when they find a Body in that Condition, they never leave praying for the Soul of the dead Person, till his Body be putrefy'd and corrupted.

The Interrment of dead Bodies is perform'd with almost the same Ceremonies that are observ'd in the Church of Rome. All the Clergy meet toge∣ther, and sing the de profundis, and Prayers for the Soul of the Deceas'd. Several Persons march be∣fore

with lighted Candles, after whom the Body is carry'd in an open Coffin, drest in its finest Clothes, with a little Cotton in its Mouth; so that often∣times the Person seems to be alive. Then comes the Husband or Wife, accompany'd with the Children and Slaves of the Deceas'd, all bellowing out their Grief in so dismal and terrible a Man∣ner, that one wou'd conclude they thought them∣selves irrecoverably ruin'd. The Women especial∣ly signalize their Love by all the wildest Marks of Despair, tossing their Bodies so furiously from side to side, that they wou'd certainly break their Necks if they were not supported by two Persons who are appointed to attend 'em. Their usual Song is Hai agamimont, hai mathiamont; Ab my Eyes! ah my Love! And the Slaves echo back the howling Musick with so hideous a Noise, that one wou'd think they design'd to scare the De∣vil. Those who have not a sufficient Number of Slaves to make a Noise sutable to the Quality of the Deceas'd, may supply that Defect by hiring Weeping-Women, who for an Jsallote, which is worth about forty Pence, howl and cry, as if they were acted by the most furious Transports of Rage and Despair. 'Tis true, the Frace is too gross and vi∣sible; for there is something so moving in true Sor∣row that it can never be counterfeited; neither is it possible for the most dextrous Mimick to imitate the tender Motions of Nature. And even when those pretended Mourners seem to be tran∣sported with Fury and Despair, running about like Mad-Women, with dishevell'd Hair, the Ar∣tifice is easily discernible. And particularly I ob∣serv'd, that when they pretend to tear their Hair, they hold it fast with one Hand near the Roots, and then pull as hard as they can with the o∣ther. To co••clude, an unconcern'd Spectator wou'd be tempted to imagine that all this Mumme∣ry

is acted in derision to the deceas'd; for as soon as he is interr'd, they make a Feast on his Grave at his own Charge; and his Wife and Children take care that nothing be wanting to the Company, who eat and drink and laugh, as if they were carousing in a Tipling House. This is certainly a very extravagant way of expressing their Affection to their dead Friends; nor cou'd they treat a Man worse whose Memory they design'd to affront. I have also had occasion to see the Funeral Solemnities of the Jews, which in my Opinion are less inconsistent with the Rules of Decency; for tho' they use those Affected Howlings as well as the Greeks, their Design is to Mourn and not to Feast. Among the Ceremonies that are us'd by the Iews at the Death of their Relations, I took notice of one which seems to be very Troublesome and Inconvenient, I mean their keeping of the Dead Body Three Days unbury'd: And I leave you to judge what a sad Companion that must be to the Widow and Children, who are oblig'd to weep without Inter∣mission till the Body be interr'd.

Since the Description of the Greekish Funerals has given me an Occasion to mention the Jews, I shall conclude this Letter with a brief Account of that Nation. 'Twou'd be needless to enter∣tain you with an Abridgement of their Ancient History, and therefore I shall only observe, that after the Romans became Masters of Palestine, these unhappy Fugitives were dispers'd, and scatter'd thro' the whole World, and have liv'd ever since like hated Vagabonds, without King or Head, ex∣pecting the Messiah with an Impatience that has frequently made 'em give Credit to Impostors. About Thirty Years ago there arose a false Pro∣phet or Messiah in this Country, call'd Sabatai Sevi, who was very learned, and had diligently study'd the Cabala, by which means, 'twas thought, he came

to the Knowledge of certain Magical Secrets, which he afterwards made Use of to abuse the Credulity of his Followers. I have heard a Thousand Stories of him, but shall content my self with telling you that he manag'd the Cheat with so much De••∣terity and Success, that he was follow'd by a great Multitude of People, and began to exercise so great an Authority over the Jews, that the Grand Signior himself, growing jealous of his Power and Credit, order'd him to be apprehended, and brought in Chains to Constantinople, where this pre∣tended Messiah turn'd Turk to save his Life. The Scandal of this Example, which ought to have taught the Jews more Caution for the future, cou'd not keep 'em from falling not long after into another Error of the same Nature. You must know that during the Feast of Tabernacles, the young Women of that Nation are oblig'd to lie abroad under Tents in a place appointed for that purpose; and they have an old Tradition that the Messiah shall be conceiv'd in the Womb of a Vir∣gin during that Festival. Now it happen'd that a certain Maid, who it seems was weary of that Denomination, resolv'd to make use of so favour∣able an Opportunity of tasting the forbidden Delight, and to conceal her Fault, spread abroad a Report that God came to visit her every Night, and that she was to be the Mother of the Messiah. These acceptable News were receiv'd with Joy by the whole Synagogue, who appointed several Days of Solemn Thanksgiving to be kept with all ima∣ginable Secresie, for fear of offending the Turks. But their Joy was at last turn'd into Shame and Confusion, when instead of their expected Deli∣verer, the pretended Virgin was brought to B••d of a Daughter.

The Levantine Jews are extremely Cunning and Deceitful, and so dextrous in the Art of Wheed∣ling, that those who deal with 'em ought to be always upon their Guard. Cheating is the Trade by which they live, as others do by Labour or Traffick; and 'tis usually said here, that a Jew never eats his Breakfast till he has cheated a Chri∣stian. However, 'tis certain that he who trusts 'em must either betray his Ignorance or Impru∣dence; for by a modest Computation, I may venture to assure you, that among Twenty Jews there are always Nineteen Knaves. There cannot be a more convincing Argument to prove that Re∣ligion is not always attended with Honesty; for if it were, the Jews wou'd be the honestest Men in the World. They observe the Precepts of their Law with an incredible exactness; and wou'd not do the least Work on the Sabbath to prevent the Ruine of the Universe. 'Tis not yet a Fortnight since we had an eminent Instance of the Power of Superstition, on occasion of a Fire which broke forth in the Jews Quarter in this City on the Sab∣bath Day; for they suffer'd it to consume their Houses without endeavouring to quench it; and one among the rest seeing his Child just ready to be devour'd by the Flames, contented himself with tearing his Hair, instead of breaking the Win∣dow of his House, tho' there was no other Way to save the Life of his miserable Infant, which wou'd have been certainly burnt alive, if it had not been seasonably rescu'd by some Greeks, whose Compassion drew 'em to its Assistance. This Fire made a prodigious Havock, for it destroy'd above a Hundred Houses, in the greatest part of which there were Warehouses.

The Jews are no less jealous of their Wives than the Turks, and are very careful in keeping 'em under a close Confinement. 'Tis true, they are

permitted to see and visit one another; but if a Woman shou'd walk a Quarter of a League out of the City without her Husband or Brother, she wou'd infallibly be divorc'd.

They wear a large Gown of black Cloth, made almost like that of the Papa's; and their Shooes are of a Violet Colour. Their Caps are of Felt, cover'd with Violet-colour'd Cloth, and resemble a long Block of a Hat. Round their Caps they tye a small strip'd or Violet-colour'd Turbant, which they call a Tandour. They are oblig'd to pay the Carache as well as the Greeks, and are treated with more scorn and Contempt: But they are naturally of so intrigueing a Temper, that they thrust them∣selves into all sorts to Bus'ness, and are at pre∣sent the only Managers of Trade; for there are no other Brokers in the Levant.

I know not whether you will complain of the unusual Length of this Letter; but I can assure you that the writing of it has fatigu'd me so ex∣tremely, that, tho' I had not finish'd my Sub∣ject, I shou'd have been forc'd to break off ab∣ruptly.

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Smyrna, July, 1692.

LETTER XXIII.

SIR,

JUst now I'm inform'd that five Barbary Vessels anchor'd this Morning at Fosche, which is a lit∣tle Harbour at the Mouth of the Gulph. If this be true, we must expect to see the Streets always full of those insolent Scoundrels, from whom the Franks receive a Visit once every Year, tho' they wou'd gladly dispence with so troublesome a piece of Civility. I have not yet had Experience of their Deportment; but the Accounts I have re∣ceiv'd from others have extremely abated my na∣tural Curiosity to be acquainted with the Customs of Strangers: And I had much rather hear a De∣scription than be an Eye-Witness of the Disorders they committed in this City, which are still so fresh in the Memory of the People, that they hardly talk of any thing else. I know not whe∣ther you cou'd hear without Disturbance a Rela∣lation of those Abuses, if you were in a place where you might shortly expect to see 'em re∣peated: But since you are at so great a Distance from the Scene of the Tragedy, you may ven∣ture to read it without fearing to be made a Spe∣ctator of it: And besides, there can be nothing more proper to give you a clear Idea of the Weak∣ness of the Turkish Government.

About a Year ago the same Barbary Ships touch'd at the Port where they have now cast Anchor, which is only four or five Leagues distant from this place; and since these Sea-Monsters are not restrain'd by the least shadow of Discipline, one half of 'em was perpetually in the City. These pretended

Soldiers are a meer Rabble of Murderers, Rob∣bers, and the most desperate Villains, who, to a∣void the just Punishment of their Crimes, flock from all parts of Africk to the Sea-Coast, where they find on board the Ships, a Sanctuary that secures 'em from being made accountable for their past Offences, and are at the same time privileg'd to re-act their former Barbarities without con∣troul; so that they are equally dreaded by the Turks, Greeks, and Franks, tho' the Storm falls hea∣viest upon the last, especially since the Bombard∣ing of Algiers, which has inspir'd 'em with a hor∣rible Aversion against the French, and against all o∣ther Franks for their sake.

Two or three Days after their Landing, two of 'em drinking in a Tipling-House pick'd a Quarrel with a Frenchman, who seeing 'em advance towards him with naked Poniards, discharg'd his Pistol at 'em, and then made his Escape. Imme∣diately the two Barbarianss one of whom had re∣ceiv'd a slight Wound by the Shot, being reinforc'd by some of their Fellows, ran thro' the Streets, swearing like enrag'd Furies, and threatning to murder all the French without exception. In the Heat of their Rage they met three Mariners of Provence coming out of a Barber's Shop, whom they instantly assaulted, and dragg'd by the Hair along the Street to the Bazar, where they butcher'd 'em with their Poniards in a most barbarous man∣ner. The French Consul being alarm'd at the News, commanded those of his Nation to keep within Doors all that Day, and sent for Soldiers and Arms from on board the Ships that were in the Port, to secure him from the Insolency of the in∣cens'd Rabble. Next Morning he order'd forty Men, arm'd with Carabines and Pistols, to bring off the Bodies of the three Seamen that had lain all the while in the Street. As soon as the Bar∣baria••s

heard of their Design, they resolv'd to op∣pose the Execution of it; but since they had no Fire-Arms, and are extremely afraid of Shot, they fled after the first Discharge, and left the Bodies to the French, who carry'd 'em off without any Opposition. In the mean time the Consul had sent a Message to the other two Consuls of En∣gland and Holland, to beg their Assistance in the Common Cause of the Three Nations: But these Gentlemen did not think fit to irritate an enrag'd Mobb that had not positively declar'd against a∣ny other Nation but the French. And it appear'd by the Event, that they acted wisely in so nice a Juncture; for the Neutrality they observ'd, and the Care they took not to kindle the Fury of the Barbarians by appearing too much in the Streets, had so good an Effect, that the English and Dutch receiv'd not the least Injury during the Tumult, except some affronting Words. The French Consul being disappointed of the Assistance he expected from the two Nations, and not knowing to what Saint he shou'd make h••s next Address, resolv'd at last to demand Protection from the Cadi. Imme∣diately he sent two Merchants, and as many In∣terpreters to complain to that Officer of the In∣juries he had receiv'd from the Barbarians, and to assure him that if the Tumult were not quickly appeas'd, he wou••d seek Redress at the Port, and in the mean time wou'd Arm those of his Nati∣on in their own Defence. But instead of the Aid he expected, he had the Mortification to re∣ceive only a faint Excuse; for the most favourable Answer his Messengers cou'd obtain from the Ca∣di was, that he had not Forces sufficient to sup∣press the seditious Multitude; and that the best Advice he cou'd give his Master, was to defend himself as well as he cou'd. The Consul percei∣ving that this was in effect an absolute Denial,

dispatch'd an Express to Monsieur de Chasteauneuf, to acquaint him with the extreme Danger that threaten'd the Nation, and to intreat him to use his Int'rest at the Port for the procuring a Grand Mandamus against the Barbarians.

Before I proceed farther, 'twill not be impro∣per to inform you, that a Grand Mandamus is an express Order from the Sultan, which he never grants but in Cases of great Necessity, and of the highest Importance. Those who refuse to sub∣mit to it are declar'd Rebels against the Grand Signior; and the Law ordains that such Per∣sons shall be treated as Infidels: So that these Orders may be call'd the Grand Signior's Thunders; as Excommunications are said to be the Thunders of the Vatican.

The Consul waited with an extreme Impatience for the Return of his Express, and during the space of three Weeks which that Messenger spent in his Journey, and in dispatching his Bus'ness, the French were forc'd to suffer the Insolency of the Barbarians, whose Fury was so far from being appeas'd, that it wanted little of its first impetu∣osity; for they continu'd still to beat and affront all the Frenchmen that came in their Way. Nor cou'd the Greeks and Jews escape their Rage, for as many of 'em as were found with yellow Ba∣bouches, long Breeches, or any sort of Habit or Ornament prohibited by Law, were sure of the Bastinado; these Villains pretending that they wou'd restore Justice in the City, and reform the Abu∣ses that had crept into the Government. One Day they happen'd to meet an old Drogue-man with a Chacsir, after the Turkish Fashion, and im∣mediately ask'd him by what Authority he wore that Habit: The poor Man reply'd, that he wore it as Interpreter of France; but this Answer instead of pacifying 'em, irritated 'em so extremely,

that after a severe Beating they took away his Chacsir, and sent him home with a bare Breech. At last the Grand Mandamus came, forbidding the Barbarians under pain of Rebellion to molest the French; and ordaining the Cadi, and all the Inha∣bitants of Smyrna, to shut up their Shops, and be ready to assist the French in case of any Tumult or Disturbance. The Consul was extremely proud of this Order, and after he had notify'd it to the Cadi, thought himself as secure as if he had ob∣tain'd a strong Reinforcement: But the Barbarians, who had receiv'd Advice of it from the Cadi, in∣stead of submitting to the Sultan's Command, be∣gan to Rage with more Violence than before. The first who felt the Fury of this new Storm, were a Chirurgeon and another Frenchman, who receiv'd three Wounds with a Poniard. After∣wards they besieg'd the Consul's House, and wou'd have set Fire to it, if they had not been prevent∣ed by fifteen or twenty Janisaries, whom he had call'd to his Assistance. The Cadi seem'd to be an unconcern'd Spectator of all these Disorders; for when the Consul sent to require his Assistance, ac∣cording to the Order he had receiv'd from the Port, he answer'd him in plain Terms, that he neither wou'd nor durst incense the Barbarians, and that he was resolv'd to expect the Event without in∣terposing in other Mens Affairs. In the mean time the Inhabitants of the City shut up their Shops, according to the Grand Signior's Order; but they were so far from assisting the French, that they had not the Courage to appear in the Streets: And if by good Fortune the Captain Bassa had not arriv'd with seven Galleys, 'tis hard to divine what might have been the issue of these Disturbances. You may easily conclude, that our Country-men, after such late and fatal Experience of the Barbarity of those Infidels, are extremely alarm'd at the News

of their Arrival: And their Fears are encreas'd by the Advice they have receiv'd from Constanti∣nople, that there were two Frenchmen murder••d by 'em there in their own Houses. 'Tis true, the two Protestant Nations have hitherto suffer'd no∣thing but Words; but who can secure 'em from the Danger of being made Sharers in the com∣mon Calamity, if another Tumult shou'd happen. 'Tis impossible to reflect without Horror on their manner of attacking a Christian that has the Mis∣fortune to come in their way. As soon as they perceive him at a Distance, they draw their Poni∣ards, and with a Howling and Wolvish Noise, run bellowing out these Words, alla, alla, alla, in the same Tone they use when they board a Ship. In such Cases 'tis in vain to think of Resistance; and as soon as a Man sees 'em coming, he must place his only Confidence in the Swiftness of his Legs; For if a Turk shou'd offer to stop 'em, they wou'd infallibly turn their Poniards against him.

These are the fatal and inevitable Consequences of the Weakness of the Turkish Government: And the Grand Signior must be a tame Spectator of the Insolency of three or four Hundred Scoundrels, (for there were no more of 'em,) and patiently suf∣fer 'em to domineer over a great City, slight his Grand Mandamus's, and assassinate almost under his Whiskers those whom he had taken into his Pro∣tection in so particular a manner.

The present French Consul has been very unfortu∣nate in the Discharge of his Office. He has been twice affronted by the Barbarians; and besides, he has a very small Share in the Ambassador's Friend∣ship, and is yet less belov'd by the Nation, who take all Occasions to mortifie him. T'other Day there happen'd a Quarrel between him and the Capuchins, who are Curates of the Parish, on the Occasion of the Election of a Grand-Vicar. For

the Consul was persuaded by the Jesuites to promote one whom they recommended to him, and re∣solv'd to make him Officiate on S. Lewis's Day, and pronounce that Saint's Panegyrick. The Ca∣puchins wou'd not own the new Vicar, and were so incens'd against the Consul, that they threaten'd to shut the Doors of their Church; but perceiving that he was resolv'd to break 'em open, they were unwilling to expose themselves to so publick an Affront, and contented themselves with giving out that they wou'd Excommunicate the Consul, who laugh'd at their Anger, and told 'em in a deriding manner, that since nothing less than Excommuni∣cation wou'd satisfie 'em, he wou'd let 'em know that he cou'd Excommunicate as well as they, and that they shou'd find his Sentences more ef∣fectual than theirs were wont to be. This Con∣sul is absolutely govern'd by the Jesuites, and so intirely devoted to 'em, that he can't live with∣out 'em. Among the Marks of his Affection to that Order, I may reckon the late splendid Enter∣tainment which he gave to Father Grimaldy, who pass'd by this Place in his Return from China, from whence he was sent with the Character of an Envoy to the French King. This Jesuit has a strange Ambition to appear Great, and talks per∣petually of the Honours he receives from the King of China, and of the Favours that Monarch be∣stows on some other Fathers of the Society, whom he has made Mandarin's of the first Order. It must be acknowledg'd, that the Jesuits are perfect Ma∣sters of the Art of Intriguing; they have always made it their Bus'ness to insinuate themselves into the Affection of Princes, and have manag'd their Ambitious Designs with so much Dexterity and Success, that we have already seen some Fathers of that Order dignify'd with the Title of Embas∣sadors by the Courts of Siam, China, Poland, Tar∣tary,

&c. You see, Sir, how suitable their Actions are to the pretended Humility of their Profession: And I leave you to judge with what Confidence they can boast of their renouncing Ecclesiastical Dignities, while they court Secular Preferments with so much Eagerness.

In the Account I gave you of the Temper and Disposition of the Turks, I forgot to take notice of their surprizing Neglect of the Public Int'rest, in which Respect they run exactly Counter to the Maxims that are observ'd in all well-govern'd States. If we consider this incurable Flaw in their Go∣vernment, we may venture to conclude that Po∣sterity will not find many Objects of Admiration in the future Monuments of their Power and Glo∣ry. If the Aegyptians, Greeks, and Romans had not been inspir'd with a nobler Ardour, we shou'd not now see so many Curious and Inquisitive Persons undertake such long and troublesome Voyages to visit the Ruines of their ancient Grandeur, or to discover the Medals that give some light to the Hi∣story of the Great Men for whom they were coin'd. The Turks are so extremely careless of the Ma∣nagement of Publick Affairs, that their Streets are not so much as pav'd; and I'm apt to think there wou'd not be a Fountain in their Cities, nor a Bridge on their Rivers, if some dying Persons did not bequeath Legacies to be employ'd in erecting such useful Works. The ill Posture of Affairs in this Country is a natural Consequence of the Constitution of the Government; for what Or∣der can be expected in a place where there are no incorporated Societies, Town-Houses, Sheriffs, or Burgo-masters. They have no Publick Buil∣dings or Walks, and their Cities are extremely ill-built. There are no fixt Posts nor Couriers; so that when a Man has occasion to write to any remote place, except Constantinople, Aleppo, or Cairo,

[illustration]

An Arabian Impostor at his Conjurations P. 309

he must sometimes wait a whole Year for an Oc∣casion; and even between Smyrna and Constantino∣ple there are only Arabs who go a-foot, and fre∣quently stay a Month before they set out. I leave you to judge how stale the News must come to several places, and what an universal Ig∣norance must reign throughout the Empire. There are some Turks who know not so much as the Name of the reigning Sultan; and even in the places that are most frequented, by reason of their Conveniency for Traffick, such as Smyrna, the In∣habitan's are scarce acquainted with the most im∣portant Transactions in the World. For they ne∣ver publish any Books, Journals, Gazettes, or the least Account of Publick Affairs; nor do I be∣lieve that there is in all Turkey a Man capable of such an Undertaking. The Time they allow for the Improvement of their Knowledge is intirely spent in studying the Art of Magical Divination and Fortune-telling, which they have borrow'd from the Arabs, and have so high an Opinion of, that they esteem it a necessary Qualification in one that pretends to Learning. There is a very famous Soothsayer in this place, call'd Solyman A∣ga, of whom I heard so many Wonders, that I went on purpose to see whether there was any Solidity in so suspected a Science. When I came to the Place of his Abode, I found a Man whose Mien and Aspect was exactly suitable to the Idea we usually have of a Magician; for he was black and lean, his Looks was gloomy and dismal, and his Beard almost cover'd his Breast; and besides, he had about twenty Arabick Books full of Figures. As soon as I enter'd, I told him, by a Friend that perform'd the Office of an Interpreter betwixt us, that the Fame of his great Learning had drawn me to see him; and begg'd him to acquaint me with some part of my future Destiny. He re∣ply'd

that I was a Christian, that my Friend was also a Christian, and that consequently we were Brothers. I was not at all pleas'd with so imper∣tinent an Answer; but since I knew that the Turks are extremely fond of Sentences, I look'd upon his Bluntness to be an Effect of his Humour, and desir'd my Friend to ask him whether he cou'd give me a particular Information concerning my Fortune. Yes, said he, and more than that; if you please I will make you Discourse with the black Angel, who will teach you to speak all sorts of Lan∣guages. Since my only design was to discover the utmost Reach of his Skill, I took him at his Word, and earnestly pray'd him to shew me the Angel, which he promis'd to do the next Morn∣ing at the Hour of Quindi. When I return'd at the appointed Time, I found him extremely puzzl'd to find out some way to save his Credit, and that he was resolv'd either to flinch from his Promise, or to fright me from demanding the performance of it: For at first he ask'd me a Hun∣dred Crowns, concluding that I wou'd not pur∣chase the Satisfaction of my Curiosity at so dear a Rate: However, I resolv'd to touch him in the most sensible Part, knowing that he wou'd be ex∣tremely concern'd for the Loss of his Reputati∣on. I told him then that I perceiv'd his Learn∣ing was not so profound as he pretended, and that if he were not sensible of his own Igno∣rance, he wou'd not demand so extravagant a Summ for so small a Matter. These Words, as I expected, had some Influence upon him; for he told me, but to convince me of the Injury I did him by suspecting the Truth of his Pretensi∣ons, he wou'd show me the Angel, and wou'd make me speak to him for fifty Crowns. But he was extremely surpriz'd, when instead of endea∣vouring to beat down the Price, as he concluded

I wou'd, I immediately agreed to the Bargain: However, he conceal'd the Perplexity of his Thoughts as well as he cou'd, and endeavour'd to find out some other Starting-Hole. He assur'd me that he wou'd gladly give me the Satisfaction I desir'd, but the Ceremony cou'd not be perform'd till one a-Clock in the Morning: He advis'd me therefore not to place too much Confidence in my Courage, which cou'd not preserve me from being seiz'd with an Astonishment and Terror that might be attended with very dangerous Con∣sequences. He added a hundred other Reasons to deter me from adventuring on so hazardous a piece of Curiosity; but at last, perceiving that I conti∣nu'd fix'd in my Resolution, he promis'd to satis∣fie me that Night, and began to talk of Perfumes, Characters, and Evocations, which were so far from Daunting either me or my Friend, that we return'd thither in the Evening, well arm'd, and resolv'd to Fire briskly at the Devil if he shou'd have the Confidence to attack us. If you shou'd ask me what made me so desirous to be acquaint∣ed with Monsieur le Diable, and what Bus'ness I had to do with him, I shou'd be exremely puzzl'd to give you a satisfactory Answer: But to deal plain∣ly with you, I did not believe that 'twas in the Conjurer's Power to bring us to a Sight of him, and 'twas that perhaps that made me so resolute and couragious. At last Midnight being come, he began to prepare his Perfumes, and to bring his Books and Instruments, which I concluded he did only to amuse us; and after all these Ceremo∣nies, he told us that by reason of the Obscurity of the Moon he cou'd not shew us the Angel, but he wou'd make him speak to us in Arabick, Tur∣kish, or Italian, which we pleas'd. This unexpe∣cted Shuffling convinc'd me that he was an Im∣postor, and I was so enrag'd at the Disappoint∣ment,

that I left him without daining to re∣turn an Answer, and immediately went to my Lodgings.

By this Instance you may judge of the boast∣ed Skill of all those feign'd Arabian Magicians; for this Man was reputed one of the most learn'd Professors of that Art in Asia: And yet 'tis as certain as you may think it incredible, that some Franks are so besotted with those mystical Foole∣ries, that they are not asham'd to imploy all their Time in so useless an Occupation. I know a ve∣ry expert and much-esteem'd Painter, call'd Le Brun, who neglecting his Bus'ness, applies himself wholly to the Study of Divination, and spends whole Days in turning over his Magical Books, which he procures to be translated into French at a very considerable Charge. But notwithstanding all the Confidence of this pretended Diviner, 'tis im∣possible that his Art can be true, since the very Principles on which it depends, are certainly false; and to convince you of the Absurdity of his Pre∣tensions, 'twill be sufficient to acquaint you with his usual Method of Divining. He has two little Bones with Eight Sides a-piece, on each of which there is a small Character engrav'd; and when you pro∣pose your Question, he throws the Bones, and ob∣serves the Characters that appear on the sides that happen to be uppermost. Then having made se∣veral Combinations of these Characters, with cer∣tain Numbers, according to the Subject of the Question, he draws a Scheme or Figure, which he seeks in one of his Books, where he finds a Sen∣tence written, which he fancies to be the desir'd Solution. Thus you see 'tis plain that the whole Mystery depends on the Fortune of the Dice: But when I endeavour'd to convince him of the Un∣certainty of his Art which betray'd him into so many Errors, that not One Answer in Thirty was

found to be exactly true, he reply'd very grave∣ly, that these Mistakes were occasion'd by his Ignorance, and that he did not yet comprehend the Depths of that infallible Science; adding, as a Confirmation of the Certainty of the Art, that notwithstanding the small Progress he had made in it, he never found that his Book had return'd a Cross or Impertinent Answer. And to convince me of the Truth of his Assertion, he made seve∣ral Tryals in my Presence, and I observ'd always that the Answer, whether True or False, related to the Subject of the Question; nor will I scruple to confess that I was somewhat surpriz'd at so odd an Effect of Chance.

The Turks are also very much addicted to the stu∣dy of the Philosopher's Stone, or the Art of making Gold and Silver; and I remember a story on this Subject, which I had from a Turk, who is reckon'd a Man of Honour. Two Persian Dervises came to Constantinople about four Years ago, and after they had staid a Fortnight, told their Landlord, that tho' they had no Money to pay for their Lodg∣ing and Entertainment, they were resolv'd not to go away without giving him entire Satisfaction. I know not what Credit he gave to their Pro∣mises, but he quickly perceiv'd the Effect of 'em, for they took a large Copper-Dish, which they found in the House, and having melted it down in his Presence, threw a little Powder upon it, which immediately chang'd the Copper into Sil∣ver. They retain'd one half for themselves, and left the other with their Landlord, who upon try∣al found it to be true Silver: And besides, they presented him with a small Quantity of the Powder. The Grand Visier Ismael, hearing of this Accident, sent for the Man, and oblig'd him to deliver up the Powder, which he show'd to se∣veral expert Chymists, who according to his Orders,

endeavour'd to find out the Secret. But all their Attempts were unsuccessful; and I'm the rather in∣clin'd to believe the Conclusion of the Story, be∣cause I look upon this Art to be no less frivolous and uncertain than that of Divination.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Smyrna, August 1691.

LETTER XXIV.

SIR,

IN compliance with your Desire I shall in this Letter, present you with a short View of the Life of Soliman, Emperour of the Turks, who died June 22. and was succeeded by his younger Bro∣ther, Achmet.

The present Grand Signior, Achmet, the deceas'd Soliman, and the depos'd Sultan Mahomet, were three Brothers, the Sons of Sultan Ibrahim, who was strangl'd in the Castle of the Seven Towers, in the heat of one of those mutinous Tumults of the Ja∣nizaries, that happen so frequently in this Country. His eldest Son Mahomet, who was then very young, was declar'd Emperour by the Interest and Solicitation of the Sultana Mother, and of the famous Visie••, Kopergli, who ow'd his Advancement to her, and ever afterwards serv'd her with an inviolable Fide∣lity. This Prince's Reign may be justly reckon'd disastrous; for not to mention those frequent and terrible Seditions that made him tremble so often, and in one of which he was at last dethron'd, his

Armies were several times ••outed by the Venetians, and the Duke of Lorrain before his Death, had al∣most driven him quite out of Hungary. The Turks, who are the most ungovernable Subjects in the World to an unfortunate Prince, and who are possess'd with a Belief of a certain Predestination, that over-rules the Fate of their Emperour on which they imagine the Fortune of the Empire depends, concluded that the Reign of Mahomet would be a perpetual Scene of Disasters: and the Grandees en∣courag'd the Superstition of the People, in Expectation of a favourable Opportunity to execute the Designs they had premeditated against the Government. They cou'd not have desir'd a more inviting Juncture to attempt and carry on so vast an Undertaking, than the Disturbances that were occasion'd by the ill Suc∣cess of the Campaign of 1687. and especially by the Loss of the Famous Battle of Hersan; where the Imperialists kill'd Ten thousand Turks on the Spot, pillag'd their Camp, made themselves Masters of Ninety Pieces of Cannon, and their whole Train of Artillery. The Consternation that was occasi∣on'd among the Turks by the News of this Defeat, was encreas'd by the Advice they receiv'd almost at the same time that the Bridge of Esseck was seiz'd by the Count de Dunevalt, immediately after the Victory. The Grand Visier, who commanded the Army in Person, dreading the usual Fate of his Predecessors on such Occasions, endeavour'd to se∣cure himself by laying the Blame on the Generals that commanded under him; and resolving to pre∣vent the Designs of his Enemies, perswaded the Grand Signior to put 'em to Death. But tho' the Orders for that Effect were actually given out, there was so strong a Party already form'd both against the Visier and the Sultan, that the Great Of∣ficers of the Army, with the Chiaoux Bassa at their Head, made the whole Army revolt, and march'd

towards Constantinople, with a Resolution to depose Mahomet, and place his Brother Soliman on the Throne. The News of their Approach so terrifi'd the Sultan, that knowing no orher Way to appease the Fury of the Rebels, he abandon'd the Grand vi∣sier, and sent the Imperial Signet to the Chiaoux Bas∣sa, whom he thought to gain by satisfying his Am∣bition. But he quickly found that the Danger was greater than he imagin'd; for that Officer declar'd that he would not accept the Sultan's Offer till the Grand Visier, Tefterdar, Receiver of the Customs, the Caimacan, and some others whom he nam'd, were put to Death. The Persons whose Heads he de∣manded were the only faithful Servants of the Grand Signior, who was extremely perplex'd at so unwelcome a Proposal; knowing that his Visier's Death wou'd infallibly put a Period to his own Life, or at least to his Reign. However the Ne∣cessity of his Affairs constrain'd him at last to sign the fatal Order: the unfortunate Visier was strangl'd, and his Head sent to the Chiaoux Bassa, who was so far from being appeas'd, that his Inso∣lence was heighten'd by this Mark of the Sultan's Condescension. He dismiss'd the Messengers with Scorn, telling 'em in a domineering Manner, That they cou'd not justly expect he wou'd be satisfied with one Head instead of Twenty which he had demanded; and that this way of proceeding con∣vinc'd him that the Government was not much con∣cern'd for the Quiet of the Empire. Thus the Sul∣tan was constrain'd to send all the rest of the Offi∣cers whom those insolent Rebels requir'd; and soon after perceiv'd there was no Hope of reducing 'em to a Sence of their Duty: for all the Prisoners were barbarously murder'd in the Middle of the Ar∣my by the Chiaoux Bassa's Order. This last Act of In∣humanity struck such a Terrour into the Grand Sig∣nior's Mind, that concluding himself to be irreco∣verably

lost, he resolv'd in the Fury of his Despair to put to Death all his Brothers and Sons. To comprehend the Reason of this dismal Resolution, you must know that the Religion of the Turks in∣spires 'em with a certain Veneration for the Otto∣man Blood, that over-awes 'em ev'n in the the midst of the most terrible Seditions, and is so deep∣ly rooted in their Minds, that they wou'd rather chuse to suffer the most cruel Death than to see the Throne possess'd by a Prince of another Fami∣ly. And therefore 'tis the usual Custom of those Emperours to begin their Reign with the Death of their Brothers, that the Throne may be secur'd from the Attempts of so many dangerous Pretenders. Thus Sultan Amurath, the Uncle of these three Em∣perours, put to Death all the Males of the Family; and if the Tenderness of a Mother had not prom∣pted the Sultana Validé to hide Ibrahim, who was the Youngest, the whole Race had been extingush'd. For the Sultans are more concern'd for their own Secu∣rity than for the Preservation of the Royal Line. Nevertheless Sultan Mahomet wou'd never hearken to the Perswasions of some of his Counsellours, who advis'd him to put that cruel Maxim in Exe∣cution, and endeavour'd to make him sensible that the Quiet of the Empire could never be secur'd but by the Death of Soliman and Achmet. But since he wou'd not put 'em to death while they were in his Power, he found, at last, that he cou'd not execute that bloody Resolution when his Despair constrain'd him to attempt it: for the Bostangi Bassa, who was one of the Conspirators, carry'd the two Princes to the old Seraglio under a strong Guard, who mock'd the Sultan when he demanded to be admitted with some of his Servants; and the Army was already posted in and about Constantinople. That Night a Council of the Great Officers was held in Santa-Sophia, where they came to a final Resolution to

place Soliman on the Throne, and he was declar'd Emperour the next Day with universal Accla∣mations of Joy. Thus Mahomet was depos'd, and Soliman, who was no less averse to Cruelty than his Brother, contented himself with ordaining that he shou'd receive the same Treatment which he had made him suffer for so many Years. When the Capigi Bassa came to secure his Person, and to ac∣quaint him with the New Emperour's Order, he found him on the Sopha drinking Coffee, with a Serenity of Mind that may be almost reckon'd a Prodigy, considering the deplorable Circumstances of his Condition. He submitted without making the least Resistance, saying, That it was impossible to oppose the Decrees of Heav'n, and that whatsoever is predestinated must necessarily happen.

In the mean time the Caimacan, who was one of Sultan Mahomet's Favorites, had the good For∣tune or Interest, to secure himself from being en∣roll'd among the rest of those miserable Victims that were sacrific'd to the Fury of the Chiaoux Bassa. But assoon as he perceiv'd that his Master was irreco∣verably ruin'd, he resolv'd to prevent the implacable Malice of his Enemies by a speedy flight: and consi∣dering that Christendom was the only Place where he could expect to secure his Life, he embark'd that Night on a Saique accompany'd only with one Servant; and having made a sufficient Provisi∣on of Gold, Silver, and Jewels, attempted to get into a French Vessel of Ciotad, commanded by one Captain Crevilliers: but the Mariners who had been already alarm'd with the News of those terrible Di∣sturbanees, wou'd not suffer him to approach the Ship till he had declar'd his Name, and acquainted 'em, that the Caimacan of Constantinople desir'd to speak with the Captain. Assoon as the Captain ap∣pear'd, the Caimacan intreated him to receive him on Board his Ship, and transport him to France;

assuring him that he might set sail the next night with∣out any Opposition, and offering Twenty thousand Sequins, or Fifty thousand Crowns for his Passage. This was a very tempting Offer to the Captain, and he has since told me, that he wou'd have most willingly accepted it, if the Caimacan had had the the Prudence to conceal his Name; but since both that and his Quality was known by the whole Ship's Company, neither Compassion nor Covetous∣ness cou'd prevail with the Captain to run so great a Hazard; so that the poor Caimacan was forc'd to steer his Course towards the Canal of the Black Sea, thinking to make his Escape that way. But he was quickly discover'd by the great Quantity of Silver which he had about him, and was brought back to Constantinople, where he was beheaded. A Hun∣dred other Bassa's underwent the same Fate; and the Grand Visier giving a full Career to his Spite and Revenge, fill'd the whole City with Blood and Slaughter. There was nothing to be seen in the Streets but Janizaries and Spahi's, assaulting and murdering those whom they met; and no Man when he rose in the Morning was sure of going to Bed at Night. The Franks were extremely afraid, lest the Storm should fall on them: the Ambassa∣dours secur'd their Houses with strong Guards, and all the Vessels in the Port, English, French, Dutch and Venetian, join'd together, and put out to Sea, with a Resolution to defend themselves to the last Extremity, in case they shou'd be attack'd. To conclude; I have heard some Turks, who are both very old, and well skill'd in the History of their Country, affirm, That the Quiet of the Empire was never disturb'd by a more Bloody Sedition. However 'twas at last appeas'd, tho' the Calm lasted not long; for in March there broke forth another terrible Insurrection against the New Sultan, whom all Men began to look upon as incapable of

the Government. Nor were they much mistaken in their Opinion of him, and 'tis strange they did not sooner foresee the dangerons Consequences of so great a Revolution; for how cou'd a Man learn the Art of Ruling so troublesome an Empire, who had spent his whole Life in a close Prison, where he cou'd only converse with Books, and was so perfect a Stranger to the Management of Affairs, that he was ignorant ev'n in the most common Things. Thus the best Quality they could expect or desire him to be indu'd with, was an Easiness of Temper, and a Willingness to be absolutely go∣vern'd by his Ministers; and indeed it may be said, that there was never a more tractable Prince; for during the whole Course of his Reign he never made Use of his Absolute Power in any one Act, but only in preserving his Brothers, whom he was often advis'd to put to Death; especially on this Occasion, when the Rebels threaten'd to restore Mahomet to the Throne, and had almost effected their Resolution: for the Visier was massacr'd in his own House by the Janizaries, who were the Au∣thors of the Revolt, and had made themselves Masters of the City. But the Sultan having very seasonably display'd the Banner of Mahomet, the Saphi's, the Leventi, and the People run to his Assi∣stance, and dispers'd the the Janizaries. After the Tumult was calm'd, the Bassa of Natolia, who headed the Rebels, was oblig'd to beg Pardon, and above Five hundred of the Mutineers were hang'd; tho' their Death made but a poor Amends for a whole Quarter of the City, and above Twenty Galleys and Sultana's which they had burnt. 'Twou'd be needless to give you a more particu∣lar Relation of these Accidents, since you have doubt∣less read an Account of 'em in your publick Jour∣nals or News-Papers; and the only Reason why I mention'd 'em, is because they give some Light to

the Transactions that succeeded 'em, which perhaps have not yet come to your knowledge. While the whole City was in a terrible Combustion, and the Le∣venti animated by a Desire of Plunder, were seeking an Occasion of breaking forth into fresh Disorders, there came a whole Troop of 'em to the French Am∣bassadour's Palace, and in a very insolent Man∣ner desir'd him to receive a certain beggarly Greek, whom they brought along with 'em, to be his Drugger-Man, or Interpreter. At first Monsieur de Girardin rejected the Proposal, telling 'em that he did not want a Drugger-Man, and would not take one upon their Recommendation; but seeing they began to be unruly, and threaten to set Fire to his House, he grew more complaisant, and receiv'd the Drug∣ger-Man more civilly. Nor can he be blam'd for suffering himself to be hector'd by the Rabble, since 'tis certainly the wisest Course to submit on such Occasions.

After the Sedition was quieted, Soliman retir'd to Adrianople; for he did not think himself safe in a City that becomes the Sultan's Prison upon the first breaking forth of an Insurrection; and after that time he never resided in it. He conferr'd the Dignity of Grand Visier on one Ismael Bassa, a Man without Experience, and one who had no∣thing to recommend him but the Favour of his Master. No sooner was he intrusted with the Administration of the Government, but the Em∣pire was over-run with those Disorders and Con∣fusions that are the natural Consequences of the Unskilfulness of the Principal Minister of State. Several Bassa's began to form Cabals, and enter into separate Associations. Some espous'd the In∣terest of the Sultaness, the Mother of the depos'd Mahomet, who plotted to restore her Son; others declar'd in Favour of one Jeghen Bassa, who pre∣tended to be of the Ottoman Race: some resolv'd

to be independent, without acknowledging any Head of their Party, and all in general resus'd to submit to the present Government.

In the mean time the Emperour carry'd on the War very prosperously; for the Duke of Bavaria took Belgrade by Storm, and the Prince of Baden, after he had defeated the Bassa of Bosnia, made himself Master of the whole Province. The next Year was remarkable for more Signal and Glorious Advantages; for the Prince of Baden, who com∣manded the Imperial Army in Hungary, fought three Battles successively, and obtain'd as many important Victories.

The first Battle was fought near Passarowitz, where the Turks lost seven Thousand Men, a hun∣dred Pieces of Cannon, all their Bombs, Carcasses, Mortars, Powder, Tents, &c. The second Victo∣ry was obtain'd on the 24th. of September, near Nissa, where the Serasquier who commanded in Person, cou'd not prevent the Loss of all his Cannon, and eight Thousand Soldiers. The third Battel was fought near Widen; and during the Heat of the Action, the Imperialists carry'd the Town by Storm. Besides, the Prince of Baden had taken Nissa, Zwor∣nick, Nowigrath, Arsowath, and several other Pla∣ces, which open'd a free Passage into Bulgaria and Macedonia, and from thence into Romania; so that if the War had been carry'd on for some time with the same Vigour and Success, the Imperialists might have advanc'd to the Gates of Constantinople. But in the beginning of the last Year, the Visier Ismael was depos'd, and succeeded by Kopergli Oglou, Bassa of Scio. 'Twas then the Turks began to hope they might see a happy Turn of Affairs; they remem∣ber'd the great Actions of the famous Visier of that Name, and were persuaded that this Minister wou'd imitate so glorious a Example. Nor were they disappointed in their Expectation; for the new

Visier was not inferior to his Predecessor either in Valour, Strength of Mind, or any other Endow∣ments that are necessary to fit a Man for the Ma∣nagement of Affairs; and the Empire was quick∣ly sensible of the Advantageous Influences of his Government. I have already acquainted you in a former Letter, with the prosperous Success of their Arms during the last Campagne, which gave Oc∣casion to the French Embassador to take notice of the Sympathy between the two Empires, and was afterwards solemniz'd by that Triumph of which I gave you a short Description. And therefore in∣stead of troubling you with a tedious Relation of those Events, which you have doubtless heard of, and have not yet forgotten; I shall only tell you, that if that Great Man had not been kill'd at the Battle of Salankemen, the Christians wou'd have had Rea∣son to dread a fatal Revolution, which they cou'd hardly have prevented any otherwise, than by a speedy Peace. And indeed that Design was carry'd on so successfully, that every one expected a hap∣py Conclusion of their Negotiations, when they were unfortunately interrupted by the Visier's Death. For he was not at all averse to the Proposal, and was so far from being acted by that base Love of Riches, with which the Turks are generally pos∣sess'd, that, contrary to the usual Maxims of his Predecessors, he pursu'd no other Interest than this of the State. He had often discours'd on that Subject with Monsieur Collier, the Dutch Ambassa∣dour, whose Reasons made the greater Impression upon him, because of the Character he had re∣ceiv'd of his Merit, Capacity, and Dexterity in publick Negotiations. And that able Minister had prepossess'd the Mind of the Visier with such strong Inclinations to a Peace, that, if we may be al∣low'd to judge by the most promising Appearances, he wou'd have actually concluded it, if he had not

been prevented by Death. For Monsieur Collier had made so good Use of such a favourable Opportu∣nity, that almost all the Articles were agreed on, and the Emperour had empower'd the Prince of Baden to sign the Treaty; and had appointed the Counts of Kinsky and Straatman to be his Assistants. The King of Poland and the Republick of Venice had also sent their Plenipotentiaries: but instead of the much-desir'd News of a Peace, we receiv'd an Ac∣count of the dreadful Battle of Salankemen, in which the Visier was one of the first that lost his Life. The Aga of the Janizaries, the Serasquier, and Ten other Bassa's of Note, had the same Fate; and the Turkish Army fled with so much Precipi∣tation and Terrour, that the Memory of the Oldest Men cannot furnish 'em with an Instance of so entire a Defeat. They lost above 20000 Men, all their Cannon and Baggage; and, in a word, all they had in their Camp. I cannot ex∣press the Consternation that was spread over the whole Ottoman Empire, by the surprizing and melancholy News which was brought into this Country by some that had the good Fortune to escape; who never speak of that Battle without a certain Dread and Amazement in their Counte∣nance, which gives us a more lively Idea of the Horrour of that Day, than the most particular Relation that cou'd be made of the Action.

Monsieur de Chateauneuf takes so deep a Share in the Public Sorrow, that I know not whether he cou'd support so terrible a Blow, if the Visier's Death did not comfort him a little. For that Minister never had the Happiness of his Favour, because he wou'd not be led by his Advice; and I know a Man to whom the Ambassadour ex∣press'd his Thoughts in these very Words, speak∣ing of a Peace; 'Twill, doubtless, be speedily conclu∣ded, said he; The Dutch Ambassadour is perpetually

with the Visier, and has got such a Power over him, that he can undo in one Day all that I am able to do in Ten. Nor were his Fears groundless, for I can assure you that Mr. Collier is perhaps the fittest Man in the World to manage such a Negotiati∣on. In the first place, he knows the Original of all the Great Men at the Port, and is per∣fectly acquainted with their several Humours, Intrigues, and Interests. Besides he is the Son of an Ambassadour, and from his very Birth has been enur'd to Business, which by that Means is become so natural to him, that he manages the most intricate Affairs with a certain happy Easiness that can only be acquir'd by a Person of so rare an Industry, and after a long Resi∣dence at the Court. These are the Advantages which Monsieur de Chateauneuf wants: 'tis true, he has a great deal of Wit, and never sleeps away an Opportunity of Acting; but after all, an Am∣bassadour at his Arrival from France may be reckon'd almost as great a Stranger at the Port, as if he had dropt from the Clouds. The Geni∣us and Humour of that Nation is directly opposite to ours, and Mr. Collier has studi'd it so carefully, and understands it so perfectly, that he cou'd ea∣sily give the Bassa's themselves a Lesson on this Subject. So that if Monsieur de Chateauneuf did not counter-ballance these Advantages with large Bags of Gold and Silver, which are always wont to out∣weigh Reason in Turkey, the Peace wou'd have been long since concluded. This puts me in Mind of a Story, which will give you an Idea of the usual way of managing Affairs in this place.

The Captain of a Venetian Ship, who arriv'd some Months ago at Constantinople, under the Pro∣tection and Colours of Holland, was solicited by the French Ambassadour to put himself under his Protection, and was at last allur'd to yield to

that Minister's Request by the Promises he made him to obtain considerable Favours for him, both as to the Entry and Exportation of his Goods. Mr. Collier, who upon all Occasions maintains the Honour of his Masters with the highest Zeal and Courage, wou'd not endure an Affront that seem'd to be directly aim'd at the Re∣public. Assoon as he heard of it, he sent Orders to the Captain to take down the Banner of France, if he was not resolv'd to suffer the ut∣most Severity of his just Indignation: but that de∣luded Officer slighted the Message, and so was himself the Cause of all the Misfortunes that af∣terwards befel him. For after his Excellency had given Notice to the Grand Visier that there was a Prize in the Port, Orders were immediately sent to seize the Vessel, which was declar'd to be lawful Prize; and the Captain with all the Sea∣men were put in Chains. You may easily con∣clude that the French were extremely mortifi'd to see a hundred Wretches loaded with Fetters, and sold for Slaves, meerly for setting up the Banner of that Nation. Monsieur de Chateauneuf receiv'd a very severe Reprimand from Monsieur de Pont∣chartrain, and 'twas generally believ'd that his In∣discretion on this Occasion wou'd make him be recall'd from the Port. In the mean time he was perpetually at the Grand Visier's Gate, im∣portuning him for the Relief of the Ship and Mariners: but after all his earnest Solicitations, he cou'd not obtain a more favourable Compositi∣on, than that he was permitted to redeem the Men at the Rate of Fifty Crowns a-piece; and the Ransom of the Ship was fix'd at Ten thou∣sand Crowns, which was more than its real Va∣lue. Since that time the Credit of the French Protection is extremely lessen'd; and I'm apt to believe that few Captains will hereafter be guilty

of the like Imprudence. And even I know several Venetian Captains who will not put themselves under the Protection of France, because the Ambassa∣dour has impos'd a Tax of Fifteen thousand Crowns upon the Vessels of that Nation by way of Reprizal, for the Money he paid to the Grand Visier. This Imposition occasions a great murmu∣ring among the Venetians, who pretend that he was oblig'd in Justice to redeem the Vessel at his own Charge, since he was the only Cause of its Misfortune.

I perceive that I have insensibly wander'd from my Subject, and am ready to acknowledge that this wou'd be an unpardonable Fault in an Ex∣act and Methodical History: but since I only promis'd you a clear and faithful Account of the Observations I shou'd have Occasion to make in my Travels, I do not think my self oblig'd to make an Apology for every little Digres∣sion.

The Emperour Soliman died on the twenty se∣cond of June last: some believe that his Death was natural, but others say that it was occasi∣on'd by the Sultaness the Mother of Mahomet. The last of these Opinions is most generally receiv'd, and wou'd seem very probable, if it had produc'd any advantageous Alteration in the Condition of that unfortunate Prince; but there was not the least Motion made in Order to his Restaurati∣on. Achmet was unanimously elected, and his Ac∣cession to the Throne was attended with a cer∣tain Tranquillity that is rarely observ'd in this Country. The Misfortunes that happen'd in the Be∣ginning of his Reign seem to be the Forerunners and Presages of future Disasters; for before the first Month was expir'd, he lost that Great and Me∣morable Battle of Salankemen, of which I have

already given you an Account. And if I may be allow'd to give Credit to the probable Conje∣ctures of those who are best acquainted with the Genius of his Subjects, I may venture to foretell that he will never be an old Emperour, tho' he is already in the Eight and fortieth Year of his Age. For the Franks are possess'd with a less ad∣vantageous Opinion of him than of his Predeces∣sor Soliman, whose Reign was nevertheless di∣sturb'd with an almost perpetual Revolt that kept his Throne continually in a tottering Condition.

The Death of the Visier Kopergli, according to the usual Custom of this Country, was follow'd with several Changes of Officers, and the Death of many great Persons, among the rest of one Mustapha Aga, whom I knew at Constantinople. He was born at Leghorn in Italy, and had the Disadvantage to be descended of a Fa∣mily which had no considerable Fortune. He was taken by the Turks at the Siege of Candy, and renounc'd his Religion at the Desire of the Grand Visier, who had a good Opinion of his A∣bilities, and resolv'd to put him in a Way of Bus••ness. He was easily prevail'd with to em∣brace the Turkish Faith; for since he was natural∣ly of an aspiring Temper, he enter'd with Joy into the Service of a Man by whose Interest he might expect to raise his Fortune, and either out of Gratitude, or Policy, he chose always to depend on that Family. So that the late Visier, Kopergli Oglou, was his particular Patron, and ad∣vanc'd him to the Tophana, that is, the Found∣ing or Casting of Metals, of which he was Di∣rectour-General, as well as of the Mint, which is the most gainful Post in the Empire. And be∣sides he made a very considerable Addition to the usual Profits of that Office, by inventing and introducing a certain Copper Coin, call'd Man∣gours:

for each Piece was order'd to pass at the Rate of six French Deniers, tho' 'twas no larger than a Dutch Doit, or a single French Denier; so that buying the Copper at twenty Pence a Pound, the Profit amounted to Six in Seven. Not long af∣ter the Advancement of Kopergli Oglou, Mustapha propos'd this Expedient to fill the Treasury, which till this time was very empty; and had Orders to coin Four thousand Purses of that Money, or Two millions of Crowns. So prodigious a Quantity of those Pieces cou'd not but occasion great Disorders, and a general In∣terruption of Trade; and besides those that were coin'd at the Mint, there came several Barks la∣den with 'em from France and Thessalonica, where they were coin'd by the Jews, so that there are above Two hundred thousand Crowns of Coun∣terfeit Money at present in the Empire. At last People were so discourag'd at those Abuses, that about three Months ago they began to refuse to take these Pieces for more than one half, and at present they will not take 'em at all, notwith∣standing the repeated Orders of the Grand Signior, who (as I intimated before) is not much respect∣ed in this Country. The Disorders occasion'd by the debasing of the Coin, and the vast Estate Musta∣pha Aga had acquir'd, were the Causes of his Death. His Enemies had long before begun to exclaim against the Methods he took to oppress the Peo∣ple; pretending that he was a Christian in his Heart, and that he wou'd at last make his E∣scape to Italy with all the Treasure he had scrap'd together in the Empire, which certainly had been the most prudent Course for a Man in his Cir∣cumstances. But since the Desire of Riches is like the Thirst of some diseas'd Persons, which is en∣creas'd by Drinking, instead of heark'ning to the Advice of his Friends, he took a quite contrary

Method, and sent for his Sister and Nephews, thinking by that Means to vindicate himself from the Aspersions that were fix'd upon him by his Adversaries. Besides he plac'd an entire Confi∣dence in the Grand Visier, and thought himself absolutely secure under the Protection of so kind and powerful a Patron: but he ought to have consider'd that his Patron was Mortal, and that his Interest wou'd expire with his Life. 'Tis plain by the Event, that he shou'd have acted more warily in so dangerous a Post; for I have just now receiv'd a Letter which informs me that he was strangl'd, after they had given him the Torture to make him discover his Money. And he was even so strangely infatuated, that tho' he was not apprehended for the Space of Eight Days after the Visi••r's Death, instead of making his Escape, he chose rather to expect his Fate at his own House; where he was at last ar∣rested by the Caimacan, with his Wife, Sister, and Nephews. These unfortunate Creatures, who have not yet renounc'd the Catholic Religion, sent to beg Monsieur de Chateauneuf's Protection for the obtaining of their Liberty: but he is too much a Politician to hazard his Interest at the Port to preserve the Honour of his Religion.

They begin again to talk of Peace more than ever; and I••m inform'd that the Dutch Ambas∣sadour has prevail'd with the New Visier Hali, to continue the Negotiations for that Effect at Adri∣anople, whither he and the English Ambassadour, Sir William Hussy, will set forward in few Days; and 'tis generally believ'd that the Treaty will be brought to a happy Conclusion, assoon as the Count de Marsigli is return'd from Vi∣enna, whither he went to receive the Empe∣rour's final Instructions: So that I hope I shall

be able in my next to send you some conside∣rable News. In the mean time

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Smyrna, Septemb. 1691.

LETTER XXV.

SIR,

I Have not forgot the Promise I made you at the End of my last Letter; but I know not if you will thank me for keeping my Word, since instead of the News I hop'd to send you, I must acquaint you that the Negotiations for a Peace are at an End, or rather interrupted for some time; for 'tis so much the Grand Signior's Int'rest to conclude a Treaty, that without pre∣tending to the Spirit of Prophesie, I may venture to foretel that it will be renew'd. In the mean time it will not be improper to give you an Ac∣count of this unexpected Accident. The English and Dutch Ambassadors arriv'd at Adrianople in the Beginning of the last Month, and had several Conferences with the Grand Visier, in which the greatest part of the Articles were mutually agreed on; and the only Difficulty that obstructed the happy Conclusion of the Treaty, was the Visier's insisting upon the Restoring of Buda, and the keep∣ing of Caminiec, concerning which they expected Instructions from the Emperor. While Affairs were in this Posture, the Plague began to rage so violently at Adrianople, that the Ambassadors thought

fit to retire to a Vilage two Leagues on this side the Town, till the Fury of the Distemper shou'd be somewhat abated. But the Baron de Chateau∣neuf having receiv'd new Instructions, which in all probability were accompany'd with some weigh∣ty Proposals, came to Adrianople, tho' he was nei∣ther sent for nor expected; and without the least Regard to the preservation of his Life, he had the Courage to brave Death in the midst of a City where she seem'd to have fix'd the Seat of her Empire; for the Plague made so terrible a Havock, that there died above a Thousand Persons a Day. At the same time it happen'd that Sir William Hussy was in a Gallery, and perceiving a Company of Men in the Plain, he had the Curiosity to send one of his Servants to inquire who they were. As soon as he heard that 'twas the French Ambassador, he began to dread the Consequences of that Mini∣ster••s Journey; for he consider'd that he wou'd ne∣ver have expos'd himself to so imminent a Danger, and even without being call'd, if there had not been some hidden and extraordinary Design in Agitation. 'Tis thought that the French King be∣ing inform'd of the great Progress that was made in the Treaty, sent Instructions to his Ambassa∣dor, impowering him to conclude a secret Alliance with the Turks; and 'tis but too plain that these are more than bare Conjectures; for the Visier wou'd never afterwards hear the least Word of a Peace. However, 'tis certain that Sir William Hussey's Vexation at so unexpected a Disappointment, contributed not a little to his Death; for you must not give credit to the Surmises of those who pretend that he was poyson'd, since there was not the least Mark of Poyson found in his Body, which was open'd by his own Chirurgeon, in the presence of his Chaplain, Secretary, and the rest of his Dome∣stick Servants. But tho' in all probability the

French had no hand in this Gentleman's Death, I dare not pronounce 'em guiltless of the Attempt that was made upon Count Marsigli, who was as∣saulted near Belgrade, in his return from Vienna with his Imperial Majesty's Answer. His Chiaoux, and two of his Servants, were kill'd upon the Spot, and he was wounded in five places both with Sa∣bres and Pistols: But before they had time to di∣spatch him, the Prince of Moldavia came seasona∣bly to his Assistance, tho' he cou'd not seize the Murderers, because they fled as soon as they per∣ceiv'd him. All these Circumstances, and the Jun∣cture of the Time, make me very inclinable to believe that this Attempt was not made without a particular Order. I took Occasion Yesterday to discourse concerning this Accident with the Con∣sul de Hochepied, whose Vertue makes him so inca∣pable of Suspicion, that he cannot believe the French wou'd be guilty of so Barbarous an Action; and besides, he is persuaded that the Murderers wou'd have seiz'd on the Count's Papers, if they had been set on by the French. But in my Opi∣nion that Circumstance ought not to be alleg'd as an Argument in their Vindication; for the sei∣zing of the Papers wou'd have plainly discover'd the Authors of the Murder; and we may reasonably suppose, that tho' the French King takes no care to conceal the boundlesness of his Ambition, he wou'd be loath to be reckon'd an Abettor of Mur∣derers. And besides, he might well dispense with a Sight of the Emperor's Orders and Count Mar∣sigli's Instructions, since he entertains so many Spies at the Port, who make it their Business to disco∣ver the most secret Transactions, and had in all probability acquainted him with every thing that related to the Negotiation. Thus Mr. Collier has had the Misfortune to see all his Hopes unexpect∣edly blasted; and we may reasonably suppose that

his Vexation is considerably heighten'd by the im∣possibility of regaining his Ground: For Money is the prevailing Argument at the Port, and the in∣fallible Rule by which all Controversies are deci∣ded. I cannot better represent the Genius of the Aga's, Bassa's, that Visiers that compose this Court, than by comparing 'em to a Company of Mer∣chants, who wou'd sell the very State if they cou'd, to the highest Bidder. And the same Cha∣racter may be universally apply'd to private Persons; for Int'rest is the Idol to which they sacrifice their Quiet, Honour, Emperor, and even the Empire it self. This is the fatal Source of all those terrible Disorders and Revolutions, of which we find so many Instances in History, that wou'd seem alto∣gether incredible if almost every Day did not furnish us with fresh Examples of 'em.

There is at present in this Place one of Count Tekely's Relations, who came lately from France; and 'tis observable, that he was not at all sur∣priz'd at the News of the unsuccessful Conclusion of the Treaty, which makes us believe that he ex∣pected so sudden a Change, and was not ignorant of the Causes of it. He lodges at the Consul's House, and is just ready to depart for Constantino∣ple, where 'tis said he intends to lodge with Mon∣••ieur Chateauneuf. I know not what Treatment he expects from the Ambassador, but I'm apt to be∣lieve he will not meet with a very Ceremonious Reception: For when the Count himself paid a Visit to the Ambassador at Sophia, he receiv'd him in his Bed, and pretended a Fit of Sickness, to avoid the Ceremony of a formal Reception; for there were some Reasons that inclin'd him to receive the Count as Prince of Transilvania, as there were others that oblig'd him to treat him only as Count Tekely.

[illustration]

The Triumph of a Christian that has renouned the Faith

I had Occasion this very Day to see the Tri∣umphant Procession of a Genoese Renegado, who came hither in a Ship belonging to Provence. Since the Cadi's are oblig'd by the Chartel not to re∣ceive a Christian that intends to abjure his Religi∣on till they have first acquainted the Consul of his Nation, who is to examine whether his Apostacy be voluntary or constrain'd; the Cadi of the City sent to inform the French Consul, that a Frank who came under the Banner of France, was resolv'd to turn Musulman, adding, that he might send his Interpreters to examine the new Convert, and re∣••eive his Declaration. The Consul reply'd, that he did not know the Man, nor was at all con∣cern'd with his Resolution; but hearing that the Cavalcade was to pass by his Gate, he sent Word to the Cadi, that he wou'd take it as an Affront, and order the Renegado to be seiz'd in the midst of his Triumph, and chastis'd with five hundred Bastonado's. Nevertheless he was so far from en∣deavouring to execute his Menaces, that he suf∣fer'd the whole Procession to pass under his Win∣dows without making the least Attempt to disturb ••em. I shall take this Occasion to give you a ••••ief Account of the Ceremonies that are us'd when a Christian intends to abjure his Religion. First they instruct him in the Principles of the Mahometan Religion, and after a whole Month spent in that Exercise, they gather a Contributi∣on to buy a Sute of Clothes for him, which some∣times amounts to fifty Crowns, but rarely exceeds that Summ; and they commonly use Force when People are not willing to contribute out of Cha∣rity. Then the Renegado is carry'd before the Cadi, in whose Presence, and of two Effendi's, and several other Persons, he makes a public Pro∣fession of his Faith with the following Ceremo∣nies. First an Isman makes him perform the Goul,

which is their most Solemn Ablution, and as he begins to wash himself, he pronounces these Words, bis millah el azem ve ellem doullillah allah din is lam; In the Name of the Great God, Glory be to God, the God of the Musulman Faith. Then the Isman himself performs the Goul, for they reckon themselves polluted by touching a Christian; after which they both put on their Clothes, and come before the Cadi, who says to the Renegado, Art thou willing to turn Mu∣sulman. After he has reply'd, Yes, the Isman takes the Alcoran in both his Hands, and holding it a∣bove the Christian's Head, he says first bis millah, in the Name of God; then addressing himself to the Christian, he proceeds thus; Allah ecber, allah ecber, allah ecber, eschad in la illah, illallah, eschad in Mebe∣met resoul allah; which are almost the same Words that are proclaim'd by the Muezins from the Mi∣narets or Steeples of the Mosquees. The Renegado replies, Illah, illallah Mehemet resoul allah; There is no other God, and Mahomet is his great Prophet; and as soon as he has made a public Profession of his Faith by pronouncing these Words, they put a Turbant on his Head, and make him kiss the Al∣coran, which he cou'd not do before without a Crime. Then they embrace and caress him, and put all things in order for the Cavalcade, having already provided two or three Hundred Men, arm'd with Sabres, Carabines, and Pistols, with six Ensigns, two of which march before, and the o∣ther four surround the Renegado, who is almost entirely cover'd by 'em. He is mounted on a fine Horse, which the Cadi lends him, adorn'd with a rich Vest, which he wears all the rest of the Day. The Soldiers march four in a Rank, expressing their Joy by loud Shouts and repeated Volleys of Shot, the Renegado walking in the midst of 'em with the Ensigns. Thus they march in a Triumphant manner thro' the City; but all this Pomp is but

an Introduction to the Scene of Pain, for as soon as the Triumph is over, they proceed to Cir∣cumcision, which is thus perform'd: They draw their Prepuce over the Glans or Nut of the Yard, and pressing it between two little Pieces of Iron, they cut off with a Razor that part of the Fore-Skin which reaches beyond the Glans, and at that very Moment the Apostate must once more repeat these Words, la illah illallah, Mehemet resoul allah. After this Ceremony, the new Musul∣man must keep his Bed fifteen Days; for the Cure of the Wound is rarely compleated sooner; after which he may chuse what Imployment he plea∣ses; that is, he may either List himself in the Ar∣my, or enter into Service, tho' such Persons usu∣ally become extremely miserable. For there is no∣thing more common than to see a Renegado begging; and the Turks are so far from relieving 'em in their Distress, that the very Name of a Renegado is sufficient to make those who bear it hated and despis'd, not only by the Christians, who look up∣on 'em as base and cowardly Apostates, but even by the Turks, who can never be persuaded by all their seeming Devotion that they are sincere Pro∣fessors of the Musulman Faith.

Thus, Sir, I have at last finish'd the Account I promis'd to give you of this Country, which I intend to leave very speedily. I design to em∣bark on a French Ship, which, with another Ves∣sel of the same Nation, is bound for Venice, from whence I resolve to continue my Journey to Hol∣land by Land, during which I hope my Observa∣tions will furnish me with fresh Matter to enter∣tain you now and then with a Letter. I thought to have pass'd by Thessalonica, that I might have satisfy'd my Curiosity with a View of a very considerable Rarity, I mean the Bones of a Giant that were found by some Work-men in

that Place, as they were digging the Foundations of a House for the Bassa. All the Chirurgeons of the Country have examin'd 'em, and have gi∣ven in a formal Attestation in which they con∣clude that these are the real Bones of a Man, whose Height, according to their Computation, amounted to above Twenty Feet; so that this may be look'd upon as a Confirmation of the Sto∣ry of the Giant at Spire in Germany. But I must e'en content my self with the Accounts I have heard of that Curiosity, since our Captain intends not to touch at that Place. I shall have the good Fortune during our Voyage to have the Conversati∣on of one Signior Stephano, an Italian Engineer, who having spent Eight or Ten Years in the Turkish Service, is not willing to continue longer in so dangerous a Post. He is an ingenious and witty Person, and will doubtless prove a very agreeable Companion: Besides, he intends to carry his Wife along with him, who is a little Greek, about Eighteen Years old, and the prettyest Creature in the World; so that I hope to pass these Seas with more Pleasure than I did before.

We have just now receiv'd the good News of Count Marsigli's Recovery, with which I shall conclude this Letter. I have already told you that he was very dangerously wounded, and am glad I can now inform you that the Vigour of his Con∣stitution, and the Care of his Physicians, have hap∣pily restor'd him to his Health. If the Malice of his Enemies had succeeded according to their De∣sire, the Emperor wou'd have had reason to bewail the Loss of a Man who is very well fit∣ted for the Management of important Negotiati∣ons. He was born at Pisa in Italy, and is descen∣ded of a very considerable Family; but has not yet been dignify'd with any other Character than that of Secratary to the English Embassy; tho'

he is really a secret Envoy from the Emperor, and only assumes the other Title that he may with more Security negotiate his Master's Affairs. But if the Peace were concluded, he wou'd certainly be rewarded with a higher Post.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Smyrna, Octob. 1691.

LETTER XXVI.

SIR,

OUR present Confinement puts me in mind of the eager Impatience of a Lover who sees, but dares not approach his Mistress. For here we must lie in the Lazaretto, and content our selves with making Court to the Signora Venetia Bella, without the least hope of enjoying her Beauties, till we have purchas'd the Charming Delight at the rate of Forty Days sighing and whining. We are de∣tain'd here by an Order from the Tribunal of Health, least we shou'd spread some Infectious Distemper; and I among the rest am forc'd to bear this un∣easie Restraint, tho' I'm at present in as perfect Health as any of these Cautious Gentlemen. But perhaps you'll be more inquisitive to know how we came hither, than how we spend our Time here; and therefore I shall proceed to give you a short Account of our Voyage.

I left Smyrna some Days after the writing of my last Letter, not without a very sensible Affli∣ction at my taking leave of Monsieur and Madam

de Hochepied, from whom I had receiv'd so ma∣ny Favours and Civilities during my abode in their House.

Our Voyage was disturb'd by an almost perpetu∣al Storm, which redoubling its Fury from Day to Day, made us conclude more than once that we shou'd certainly be bury'd in the Waves. Poor Signior Stephano, whom I mention'd in my last, fell sick two Days after he embark'd, and being unable to bear the tempestuous Working of the Sea, dy'd Eight Days after. The Superstition of our Ship's Crew furnish'd us with a very plea∣sant Scene; for they unanimously concluded him to be a Sorcerer, because they had seen him draw some Mathematical Figures during the first two Days of our Voyage, and were absolutely confirm'd in that Opinion by a curious Mechanical Experi∣ment he happen'd to try in their presence, by lifting up a very considerable Weight with one Hand, which those thick-skull'd Animals thought impossible to be perform'd without the Assistance of Magic. This ridiculous Conceit made so strong an Impression upon upon 'em, that they slighted all the Arguments and Asseverations I cou'd use to undeceive 'em, and not only persist in their Belief of Signior Stephano's Skill in the Diabolioal Art, but impute all the bad Weather to his Conjurations▪ The Captain pretends to be of the same Opinion, tho' I know not how to reconcile his Complai∣sance to the young Widow to the Sentiments he seems to have of her Husband; For he obliges her to perform her Quarantain on Board his Ship, and resolves to make her his Wife.

The Storm forc'd us to stand in to a Canal between two little Islands, call'd Millo and Argen∣tiere. The first is Forty Miles in Compass, and the whole Country is Mountainous, except a plea∣sant and fertil Plain, six or seven Miles long, in

the midst of which stands the City of Millo, con∣taining about Twenty narrow Streets. The In∣habitants are generally Greeks; but there are also 3 or 400 Souls of the Latin Church, who have their Bishop and Cathedral. The Venetians main∣tain a Podestat in the Island to gather the Tribute; but there is no Garrison kept in it, tho' it receives frequent Visits from the Turks; so that the first Corsair who comes with a numerous Company, is King of the Island so long as he pleases to reside it it. Yet the Pyrates never commit any disor∣ders in this place, by reason of the Assistance they receive from the Merchants that live here, who furnish 'em with Commodities to be paid out of the next Prize that falls into their Hands. There is a French Ordinary in the Town, where one may find pretty good Entertainment: And I remember I saw a Man there of so free and open a Dispo∣sition, that I shou'd have thought him a Rarity in that Country, if I had not been told that all these Islanders are generally of that Humour. He took occasion to Discourse of a Maid who was his Wife's Daughter, and declar'd that he wou'd willingly dispose of her to a Husband. One who was present lik'd the Proposal, and told him that he wou'd ease him of the Burden if he pleas'd to bestow her upon him. With all my Heart, reply'd the Father: Then, said the other, I desire to know what you are willing to give with her. What d'ye ••ean, reply'd the old Gentleman, Give with her, ••••oth' a; Why, I wont give her self for nothing. You most take me for a silly Coxcomb indeed, if you think I'll give you a pretty lively Girl, and hire you to take her? No, I beg your pardon, 'tis you must give the Money: And if I can find none that will take my Daughter on these Terms, I'll e'en keep her, and make use of her my self.

The Women are so accustom'd to the Converse of the Pyrates, that they are generally very liberal of their Favours, but not quite so frank as their Neighbours of Argentiere, which is another little Island, about Twenty Miles in Compass, contain∣ing only a little Town and a Village, both inha∣bited by about Five hundred Women; for there is not a Man in the Island, except Seven or Eight Papa's, who perform Divine Service. These Wo∣men have no Trade to maintain 'em, but live purely on the Work of Nature; so that all the Merchants and Corsairs, who come to the Island, chuse a Female-Companion, either fair or brown, according to every Man's particular Fancy. The Children are left to the Disposal of the Women; the Girls grow up and work to maintain their Mo∣thers; but assoon as the Boys are Twelve Years old, they are put on Board the first Vessel that touches at the Island.

From thence we continu'd our Voyage to Zant, a considerable Island belonging to the Venetians. It contains a hundred Miles in Compass, and produ∣ces great Store of delicious Wines, both Muscadin and other Sorts. But since Italy is sufficiently stock'd with these Commodities, the Inhabitants of this Island dry most of their Grapes, and send 'em to England and Holland. Both the City and Harbour are commanded by a very fine Ca∣stle, where the Proveditore, who is always cho∣sen out of the Principal Nobility, resides. The Inhabitants are Rich, and there are several Gen∣tlemen among 'em. This is the first place as you come from the Archipelago, where you meet with People cloath'd after the manner of the Franks; yet many of 'em wear a Turkish Vest above their other Cloaths. The Venetians have built several Churches for the Use of those who profess the Romish Faith; and do what they can to establish

that Religion, in Opposition to that of the Greeks, which is the Religion of the Natives. The City is long and narrow; which is all the Account I can give you of it, for those who come from the Levant are not suffer'd to go a-shore till they have perform'd their Quarantain. The Prince of Brunswick, who serves in the Army of the Re∣publick, pass'd the whole last Winter in this place; and gain'd the Love of the Inhabitants to such a Degree, that there is not a Man of 'em who wou'd not sacrifice himself for his Sake. I heard a Story of that Prince, which I'm confident will give you some Diversion. He fell in Love with a very Beautiful Courtezan, who treated him with an extraordinary Coyness; either because she had a particular Aversion to him, or (which is the more probable Reason of the two) because she thought he was very deeply engag'd, and inten∣ded to make him pay dear for a Favour which he desir'd with so much Ardour. But whatever was the true Cause of her Rigour, the Prince persisted in his unsuccessful Courtship; but his Pati∣ence being at last exhausted, he resolv'd upon a Stratagem to satisfie at once both his Love and Revenge: There are in Zant certain Porters call'd Cestariols, whose Business is to carry home the Provisions that are bought by the Citizens at the Market. The irritated Prince procur'd a Cesta∣riol's Habit, which disguis'd him so well that he had no Reason to fear a Discovery. In that Dress he went to the Courtezan's Waiting-Maid, and told her, that he was so passionately in Love with her Mistress, that he shou'd certainly lose his Rea∣son if she wou'd not suffer her self to be touch'd with a compassionate Sense of his Sufferings. And to engage the Maid to employ her Interest in his Favour, he presented her with Ten Sequins, which amount to about Five and twenty Crowns; and

assur'd her that if by her Assistance he cou'd pro∣cure one Night's Pleasure, he wou'd give her as many Sequins more, and wou'd besides reward the Signora so liberally, that she shou'd never have Reason to repent her Condescension to him. The Maid was extremely surpriz'd at the Cestariol's Boun∣ty: however she forgot not to deliver his Message to her Mistress, who seem'd to receive it very cold∣ly; for she thought such an Action wou'd make her be look'd upon as a common Prostitute. But the Maid, who perhaps was not so scrupulous, and had so considerable an Interest in the Suc∣cess of this Affair, us'd all the Arguments she cou'd invent, to perswade her Mistress to a Com∣pliance, and concluded her Exhortations with this wise and prevailing Remark, That a Cestariol with a full Purse wou'd prove a better Customer than a Proveditore with an empty one; adding, that the Mistress might expect a very Noble Acknowledg∣ment from one that had been so liberal to the Maid. These sage Remonstrances had so good an Effect, that the Cestariol was introduc'd in the E∣vening to the Signora's Chamber, where he quick∣ly storm'd the Place that had so long with∣stood his Attacks. 'Twou'd be as needless to give you a more particular Account of his Night's Work, as it wou'd be to represent the Confusion and Astonisment that seiz'd the Fair One in the Morning, when she saw her Chamber full of Ser∣vants that came to dress her Bed-fellow, and found that the pretended Cestariol was transform'd into the Prince of Brunswick. However she endeavour'd to set the best Face she cou'd on so cross an Adventure, and comforted her self with the Expectation of a magnificent Reward. But she cou'd no longer con∣ceal the Discomposure of her Mind, when instead of a Handful of Sequins the Prince presented her with Three-pence, adding, That if she had entertain'd

him as a Prince, he wou'd have paid her as a Prince; but since she had only treated him as a Porter, she must content her self with Porter's Wages.

Departing from Zant, we left Corfou on our Left-hand, and enter'd the Gulf, at the Mouth of which we lost our Long-Boat in a Storm. The Fury of the Tempest being somewhat abated, we conti∣nu'd our Course with a Side-Wind, and about Mid∣night perceiv'd, by the Light of the Moon, a Sail, which pass'd very near our Ship without haling us. But she had scarce left us half a Mile when she tack'd about, and bore down upon us with full Sails; and since she was lighter than our Vessel, she quickly came up with us. Our Captain concluding that she design'd to attack us, commanded every Man to his Post, and put all things in a Readiness for an Engagement, swearing that he wou'd fire at her, if she came nearer. Some of the Seamen endea∣vour'd to perswade him that a Corsair wou'd hard∣ly venture to cruize in the Gulf; and that if the Vessel we fear'd had had such a Design, she wou'd have either fir'd at us, or boarded us as she pass'd by. But he continu'd fix'd in his Resolution, tel∣ling 'em that he plac'd more Confidence in his Guns than in their Arguments; and that if the Captain did not know his own Business, he wou'd endeavour to instruct him. And indeed he kept his Word, for assoon as cou'd have a full Aim to point his Guns at her Side, he gave her a Broad-side, and tacking about, rak'd her fore and aft: but it seems she was better acquainted with the Rules of Good-breeding than we expected, for she quickly return'd our Compliment with the same Ceremonies, and then bore away. Our Cabbin was pierc'd with a Shot, which was all the Dam∣mage we receiv'd, except the breaking of a Bar∣rel of excellent Wine, which I had provided

at Zant for my own Use, during the Quaran∣tain.

Two Days after we made the Height of Ragu∣sa, which is a considerable City seated on the Sea-side; Toward the Sea 'tis defended by a strong Cittadel, and on the other Side by a high and in∣accessible Mountain. Its Figure is almost round, and its Circuit exceeds not two Miles. The Hou∣ses are generally pretty well built; but there are none that deserve a particular Observation. The Government is Aristocratical, not much different from that of Venice, only its Weakness makes it act more cautiously for the Preservation of its Li∣berty. The Senate is compos'd of Gentlemen and a Doge: but this Dignity instead of continuing for Life, as at Venice, lasts but a Month, after which a New Doge is Elected with so little Intriguing, that oftentimes a Gentleman walking in the Public Place, is surpriz'd with the News of his Electi∣on. During the time of his Government he is serv'd and entertain'd at the Public Charge, after which he returns home to dress his Garden. Since the Government of the Castle is a more impor∣tant Office, and the Ill-management of it might prove more fatal to the Republic, it lasts not so long as the former: for a New Governour is chosen every Night, and oblig'd to remain in the Castle till his Successour come to relieve him. So that the No∣bles reckon this Commission rather a Trouble than an Honour; and wou'd be as glad to be exempted from it, as a Captain wou'd be pleas'd to be excus'd from mounting the Guard. The Garrison consists of Two hundred Men, and besides the Burgers are oblig'd to keep Guard with 'em. The Gentle∣men are exempted from that Trouble, but they must not lie one Night out of the City without a special Permission. S. Blaise is the Patron of Ragusa, as S. Mark is of Venice: and is painted on

their Banners and Ensigns, and wherever 'tis the Custom to place the Arms of the Republic. A Mile from the Town towards the Mouth of the Gulf, stands the ancient City of Ragusa, which at present is call'd Ragusa Vecchio. 'Tis inhabited by some poor People, and seems rather to be a Village than a City. The whole Territory of Ragusa ex∣tends not Thirty Miles round the City, and at Sea they are only possess'd of the Island of Au∣gusta. This little Republic makes a great Noise with a certain imaginary Liberty, of which the Ragusans are extremely fond, tho' really they are not Masters of themselves; for they are absolute∣ly commanded by the Venetians, and must do what whatever they please. The Turk and Emperour content themselves with a moderate Tribute, with∣out medling with the Affairs of the Republic; but if the Payment be delay'd, the Ragusans run the the Hazard of paying dear for their Neglect. And besides they are on several Occasions insulted over by the French King, and other European Princes; and must tamely suffer the greatest Abuses, without daring to repine at the Hand which oppresses 'em. I have all along observ'd, during the whole Course of my Travels, that one may find every-where fresh Instances of the Folly and Weakness of human Nature: and the very Sight of this Place is sufficient to put a Man in mind of that Reflexi∣on. For 'tis certain that the Liberty or Inde∣pendency of the Ragusans, as well as of several other States, is their greatest Misfortune; and that they wou'd be infinitely more happy under the Dominion of some potent Master, that cou'd protect 'em from all the Injuries and Affronts which they are daily oblig'd to suffer without the least Hope of Redress. And I'm confident, if you consider, without Prejudice, the Advantages on both sides, you will conclude with me, That, not∣withstanding

their boasted Liberty, a Wise Man wou'd rather chuse to be a Subject of Venice, than to be a Free Citizen of Ragusa. But to return to my Voyage.

The Wind coming fair, we left Ragusa, and the next Morning we came to an Anchor in the Harbour of the little City Parenzo in Istria, where we took a Pilot. For the Republick keeps always a sufficient Number of Pilots in this place, for the Conveniency of Ships that are bound for Venice; which are oblig'd to have Recourse to their Assistance, because from thence to the La∣gunes the Passage is extremely hazardous, by rea∣son of the Banks of Sand that are form'd by the Rivers Po and Brent at their Falling into the Sea. These Banks are so dangerous, and subject to so frequent Alterations, that the most skilful Pilots, who are acquainted with every Rock and Shoal in the Passage, are forc'd to steer perpetually with a Line in their Hand, for fear of some fatal Blunder, which wou'd certainly be punish'd with Death. The Difficulty of the Passage is a very considerable Disadvantage and Obstruction to Trade; but it may be reckon'd the main Security of Ve∣nice, which cannot be attack'd on that Side. For tho' a Fleet of Ships shou'd be conducted to Mala∣moca by Venetian Pilots, 'twou'd be impossible for 'em to ride there, by reason of the stormy Gusts that happen so frequently in that place.

After the charming View of Constantinople from the Sea of Marmora, I never beheld a finer Pro∣spect than that of Venice. At the Distance of Thirty Miles you begin to perceive the Spires of the Churches, and the Prospect is still enlarg'd the nearer you approach; which gives the ravish'd Spectatour the Idea of a Great City springing out of the Water. Nor can you possibly free your self from this pleasant Delusion of the Fancy till

you have enter'd the Town; for all the outer Houses of the City are founded on Piles in the midst of the Water. The Port of Venice is a large Plain cover'd with Water, in which there are cer∣tain Islands or Rising-Grounds, level with the Water, on the biggest of which Venice is built. most of the other Islands are also cover'd with Buildings, and make particular Towns; the most considerable of which is call'd Judeca, or the Jews Quarter. 'Tis said to contain Forty thousand Souls; the Houses are fair, and there are large Gardens, whither the Inhabitants go to divert themselves during the Summer, and are accommo∣dated with all sorts of Provisions, cool Liquors, and oftentimes with very agreeable Company.

The curious Traveller ought also to take a View of the Island of Mouran, where the fine Looking-Glasses are made that are so famous over all Eu∣rope; besides several other Curious Works in Glass and Crystal.

These Islands are call'd Lacunes or Lagunes, both such as are, and such as are not, inhabited. Two of 'em are set apart for the use of those who come from the Levant, where they are oblig'd to perform their Quarantain in certain large Hospitals, call'd Lazaretti. The first, call'd Lazaretto Vecchio, is but a Mile distant from Venice; but the other, where we are confin'd, is five Miles from the City. 'Tis one continu'd Building, consisting of two Stories, 300 Paces long, and divided by High Walls into six Apartments, each of which has a particular Gate that leads into a Square Court, where there is a Well, but the Water is so bad, that we never use any but what is brought from Venice. Every Apartment contains Twenty Chambers, Ten above, and as many below, separated like Cells, with a Chimney in each. Those who perform their Qua∣rantain are constantly attended by a Guardian or

Keeper, sent for that purpose by the Tribunal of Health. And we have the Misfortune to be plagu'd with one who mortifies us extremely: For he not only denies us the Liberty of conversing familiar∣ly with those who come to see us, but will not suffer us to approach within Ten Paces of 'em; and besides, they are oblig'd to take the Wind of us. No Person whatsoever, nor even the Doge himself, is exempted from these troublesome Seve∣rities, which are appointed for the Publick Secu∣rity, and for the Preservation of the City from contagious Distempers. But tho' we are not per∣mitted to entertain those who are without the La∣zaretto, there are some things which they are al∣low'd to receive from us, such as Bread, Wine, Vessels, Tobacco, Money, Wood, and generally every thing that does not consist of Threads. And yet, which in my Opinion is the most intolerable piece of Nicety in the World, they will not suffer a Letter to come out of our Hands till it be open'd and smoak'd: And I was even forc'd to open Monsieur de Hochepied's Letters to his Friends in Hol∣land; so that I shall be oblig'd to deliver 'em un∣seal'd to the Persons to whom they are directed. When a Man comes to lodge in one of these Rooms, he finds nothing but Four bare Walls, and must therefore buy an entire Set of necessary Fur∣niture: But as for Provisions, there are Barcarioli, who bring whatever you call for, allowing 'em a third part of the Price for their Pains. Every Man must be his own Cook, a Disadvantage which is more easily supported here than any where else; for our Time is so great a Burthen to us, that we are glad of any Occupation; and that which in another Place would be reckon'd a Trou∣ble, is esteem'd a Recreation here. The Lazaretto is govern'd by a Prior, appointed by the Tribunal of Health. His Revenue amounts to a Thousand Du∣cats,

worth about 3 s. 9 d. a-piece. He is entrust∣ed with the Keys of the six Apartments, which are kept shut from Sun-setting till Eight a-Clock in the Morning. The Guardians are under his Command, and are oblig'd to give him an Ac∣count of every thing. There are 120 of 'em in Office, who are employ'd by Turns, according to the Number of Ships that arrive in the Port. Their Salary, which amounts to half a Ducat a-Day, besides their Entertainment, is not paid by the Republic, but by a Tax laid upon the Passen∣gers and Goods that are committed to their Care. In the same Lagune there is a large Enclosure where the Goods are laid in a sort of Stalls or Market-Houses, supported by Pillars without Walls, and o∣pen on all Sides. And there are Faquini or Por∣ters appointed to remove 'em from time to time, and to take care that nothing be lost or da∣mag'd.

You have doubtless heard of the great Number of Spies that are kept by the Senate to give notice of every thing that is said or done against the Go∣vernment. These Informers are a horrible Plague to those who are under the Dominion of this Re∣publick, as well natural Venetians as Greeks. For the least Offence exposes a Man to the Severity of the Inquisition of the State, which is at least as terrible a Tribunal as that of Rome. Nor is it possible for a Man to know when he shou'd be upon his Guard; for those who profess the great∣est Friendship and Fidelity, are oftentimes mere In∣formers. And besides, there are Spies of all Ranks and Orders; Servants, Merchants, Officers, Citi∣zens, and Nobles, who disguise themselves with so much Care and Dexterity, that 'tis impossible to penetrate into their hidden Designs. The Re∣public is so cautious in preventing Discoveries of this Nature, that those who undertake such a Com∣mission

are enjoyn'd to conceal it even from their Wives and Children, under pain of suffering the most rigorous Penalties. And the Scandal and Odium that attends their Profession is alone suf∣ficient to oblige 'em to Secresie, tho' they were not kept in awe by the Fear of Punishment. This breeds an universal Diffidence and Shieness among all sorts of People, and makes 'em extremely re∣serv'd in discovering their Sentiments to one ano∣ther, especially in the presence of certain Persons who are more particularly suspected, such as Monks, and the Guardians of Health in the Lazaretti, who are generally reckon'd to be the Inquisitor's Spies, and I believe not without reason, as you will per∣ceive by the Relation of an Accident that hap∣pen'd to my self.

As soon as a Vessel enters the Port, the Tribu∣nal of Health sends immediately a Guardian with a Phanti on board to conduct the Passengers to the Lazaretto, that no time may be lost; for the Qua∣rantain is not reputed to begin till the Day after they come a-shore. But tho' this Custom is ve∣ry exactly observ'd on all Occasions, there arose a Dispute in our Ship about some Matters relating to Trade, that retarded our Landing Four Days, which consequently were not reckon'd in the For∣ty Days of our Quarantain. This Delay occasion'd a general Discontent among us, and we were the more sensibly afflicted, because we neither foresaw nor knew how to remedy our Misfortunes. How∣ever, the Greeks and Venetians whom he had take on board at Zant, conceal'd their Resentments with all possible Care. But I who was not so well acquainted with the Customs of the Place, and perhaps am naturally of too free a Humour, cou'd not forbear complaining of this Injustice that was done us, and was even so far transported, that I express'd my Impatience and Indignation in very

bold and emphatic Terms. In the mean time I was extremely surpriz'd to perceive an universal Si∣lence among those who heard me, and was so vex'd to find that none of 'em wou'd join with me, that at last I held my Peace. An Hour after, the Cap∣tain took me aside, and told me that I was ruin'd: I entreated him to let me know the reason that made him give me so unwelcom an Admonition: Because, reply'd he, you have spoken disadvantageously of the Government before a Guardian, who is certainly an Informer; adding, that he wou'd not have spo∣ken so freely for a Hundred thousand Crowns. Then he related five or six Tragical Stories of Per∣sons that had lost their Lives for less provoking Crimes, and added so many Arguments to convince me of my Danger, that I began to be afraid in good earnest, and to complain of his Unkindness in not giving me more timely warning. He re∣ply'd, that he ne'er thought of it, and that he cou'd not imagine me to be ignorant of a thing that was so universally known. The only way I can suggest to you, added he, to prevent your Ruine, is to be silent for the future, and to bribe the Guardian with a Present, which perhaps will stop his Mouth. In pursuance of his Advice, I gave the Guardian two Sequins, and endeavour'd to oblige him by all the Marks of Friendship and Kindness during the two days we remain'd on Board after that Accident. Yet after all, he inform'd against me, at least I had reason to suspect him; for the Prior told me t'other Day, that the Inquisitor had spoken concerning me, and had signify'd to him, that there was a very turbulent and impatient Frenchman in his La∣zaretto. This Reprimand abated, instead of encrea∣sing, my Fears, for the Inquisitor wou••d not have spoken to the Prior, if he had intended to punish my Boldness. However, this Accident shall teach me Circumspection for the future; and may serve

for a Warning to such of your Friends whose Curiosity may incite 'em to visit this Place in their Travels: For Strangers are in a more parti∣cular manner expos'd to the Severities of that dread∣ful Tribunal; and I'm persuaded that such indi∣screet Expressions have oftentimes prov'd fatal to Travellers.

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Lazaretto at Venice, Decemb. 1691.

LETTER XXVII.

SIR,

AT last I have obtain'd my Liberty, and have bidden a joyful Farewel to that nasty Laza∣retto, where I was forc'd to do so tedious a Pe∣nance for my Sins. And since I have reason to believe that all my Transgressions are blotted out by so severe a Mortification, I'm e'en resolv'd to venture upon a New Score: There is not a Town in the World so full of Invitations as this: I see every Day such charming and enflaming Objects at the Opera, Ridotti, and whither so ever I go, that a less sensible Heart than mine cou'd not long resist the powerful Temptation. There is a greater Number of lovely Women here than in any other Place of Europe, and their Charms are more allu∣ring. Three Divinities seem to contend which of 'em shou'd contribute most to the Embellishment of a City where they have fix'd the Seats of their several Empires. Venus makes it the Scene of all

the soft Delights of Beauty and Love; Apollo dis∣plays the ravishing Variety of his belov'd Harmo∣ny; and Momus charms both the Eye and Ear with splendid Masks and ingenious and witty Co∣medies. Venice is a Cluster of inchanted Islands, where Joy and Pleasure have establishd their peace∣ful Sway, without the least Disturbance from tu∣multuary or gloomy Passions. 'Tis all over charm∣ing; every Object inspires Love, and fills the Mind with a resistless and surprizing Delight. But I must not forget that I write to one who is too inquisi∣tive to be satisfy'd with general Hints; and there∣fore I shall proceed to give you a particular Account of this admirable City. I intended to have begun my Letter with the Story of a pleasant Accident that happen'd to one of my Friends at our coming out of the Lazaretto, where he perform'd his Qua∣rantain with me; but tho' I am not often guilty of a scrupulous Niceness in observing the Rules of an exact Method, I'm loath on this Occasion to invert the Order I intend to follow in the Descri∣ption of the City; and therefore I shall defer the Relation of my Friend's Adventure, till I come to speak of the Venetian Curtezans.

The Observation I made concerning Constantino∣ple and Cairo, may with equal Justice be apply'd to Venice, and in the general to all great and po∣pulous Cities; that there are very different Opini∣ons concerning their Extent, and the Number of their Inhabitants. Nor is this Controversie so ea∣sily decided as some Persons imagine: For when did ever a Traveller undertake to count the Streets of a great City? Or what more can the most in∣quisitive Stranger do than to measure the Dimen∣sions of a Publick Place, or of a Temple? Judge then whether any one can make a certain Computati∣on of the Number of the Houses, or of the Per∣sons that inhabit 'em. And I may venture to

add, that none but a Soveraign is able to manage such a Design; and that the exactest Calculations that can be made by Private Persons, are mere uncertain Conjectures, that can never be true but by a lucky Hit, on which there can be no depen∣dance. The same may be said of the Bigness of a City, which ought rather to be computed from the Figure, than from the Extent of its Circumfe∣rence: And 'tis so difficult a Task to find and de∣scribe the true Figure of a Town, that the Inha∣bitants themselves are ignorant of it. How many different Judgments are made of the comparative Bigness of London and Paris? Yet every Man thinks his own Opinion true; and the same Re∣mark may be apply'd to all other large Cities. I will not undertake then to determine so intricate a Controversie, but shall content my self with ac∣quainting you, that Venice, as to its Extent, may, in my Opinion, be compar'd to Rome, that the Streets are Narrow, the Ground extremely well Husbanded, and the Houses full of People to the very Top. It has neither Gates, Walls, nor Cit∣tadel, and yet cannot be justly said to be Weak. 'Tis esteem'd impregnable by many Authors, and that Opinion is so generally receiv'd, that you shall hardly hear any Man give an Account of Venice without that Encomium at the End of it. The Venetians themselves tell the Story so often, that at last they imagine it to be a certain Truth, and wou'd fain persuade others to be of the same Opinion. But tho' they alledge some Reasons in Confirmation of that Assertion, they must not expect to make us swallow 'em by an implicit Faith. At least I can assure you, their Arguments have made no great Impression upon me; for I cou'd never boast so strong a Faith as to give Credit to an obvious Absurdity. However, Ex∣perience has taught me so much Wisdom, that I

shall hardly venture to own my Opinion in this Case during my abode here. Let 'em magnifie their City beyond all the Forts in the World, and defie the Ambition of the most potent Sove∣reigns in Europe; their Arrogance shall never ex∣tort one indiscreet Word from me so long as I remain within the reach of the Inquisition: But as soon as I can set my Foot beyond the Limits of their Dominions, I shall e'en make bold to talk as freely to any Man of the boasted Strength of their City, as I now intend to write to you.

You may remember I acknowledg'd that Venice is impregnable on the Side next the Sea, and gave you an Account of the Reasons which inclin'd me to be of that Opinion. But I'm fully persuaded that 'tis not impossible to attack it with Suc∣cess on the other side, unless it be defended by an Army strong enough to baffle all the Attempts of the Besiegers, in which Case, I must confess, it may be said to be impregnable; but upon the same Supposition any Town in the World may plead a Right to that Title: Whereas a Place that may be properly call'd impregnable, must be strong e∣nough to endure a Siege two or three Years with∣out Relief; that is, it must be able to resist any Enemy but Famine, which is a necessary Conse∣quence of a long and close Siege. I confess there are very few such Places in the World; yet I have seen one, I mean Malta, and 'tis probable there are some other Forts which merit the same Character. As for those Places that may be subdu'd by Force, tho' not without extreme Difficulty, they may and ought to be call'd Strong, but cannot just∣ly be said to be Impregnable. Yet the last of these Epithets is very frequently abus'd and misapply'd; for 'tis as usual to honour a Place with that Title, as 'tis rare to find one that deserves it.

If this be the true meaning of the controvert∣ed Term, and if none but such Places as these can be properly said to be impregnable, as 'tis plain they cannot; I know no reason that shou'd hin∣der me from excluding Venice out of that Number. It seems to be no very difficult Undertaking to seize on the Lido and Malamoca, two inhabited Islands, and by securing those Posts, to intercept the Communication of the City with the Sea, and to cut off all Relief that might be expected that way. An Army might also soon take Pos∣session of several little uninhabited Lagunes about Venice, from whence the City might be easily bat∣ter'd and bombarded; and God knows what Ha∣vock the Bombs wou'd make in so compact a Ci∣ty as this. And besides, the Multitude of the In∣habitants wou'd quickly expose 'em to all the De∣solations that are usually caus'd by Famine. I confess the Arsenal is so well furnish'd that all the Burghers might be arm'd in Four and twenty Hours; but what use cou'd they make of their Arms in a Town which in case of a Siege wou'd instantly be turn'd to a Prison: For there is no cover'd Way thro' which they cou'd sally out upon their Enemies; and tho' they cou'd contrive one, the Citizens of Venice wou'd make but a very feeble resistance. I have so mean an Opinion of their Military accomplishments, that I dare boldly af∣firm that Ten thousand well-discipln'd Soldiers wou'd do more execution than a Hundred thou∣sand of 'em. Was not Paris starv'd by 30000 Men, tho' at the same time it was defended by 150000 Citizens, who might have sally'd out when they pleas'd? What then wou'd become of Venice in such a Case, where the besieg'd must be coop'd up in their Houses, and cou'd never make a Sally to di∣sturb or annoy their Enemies? Perhaps I shall be laugh'd at for maintaining that this wonderful

Place that dispises and defies the most potent and triumphant Enemies, might be enter'd and set on Fire by a sufficient Number of Men with Tor∣ches in their Hands, without the Trouble or Charge of Bombardment. But I wou'd willingly be inform'd what cou'd hinder 100000 Men from making and executing such an Attempt. There are no Walls to stop or retard their Progress; the City is open in Fourscore several Places, all the Houses that surround it are pierc'd with Doors and Shops, and many of 'em are built of Wood. I confess such an Expedition wou'd require a vast Number of Boats; but when I speak of 100000 Men, I do not mean that they shou'd all be em∣ploy'd in the Attempt: The Fifth part of 'em wou'd serve to carry on the Attack; and the Be∣siegers might find a sufficient Number of Boats in the adjacent Harbours, without giving themselves the trouble of making new ones.

My Opinion in this Case is so singular, and so directly opposite to the Notions that are enter∣tain'd by the generality of Mankind, that you will doubtless scruple to give Credit to my single Te∣stimony, especially since the Arguments I bring to confirm it depend on certain Circumstances with which you never had occasion to be acquainted. And you will be apt to tell me, that the Veneti∣ans wou'd certainly have taken care to fortifie their Capital City, if its Natural Strength were not incapable of any Artificial Improvements. In answer to the first part of this Difficulty, I shall only repeat what I have already told you, that 'twas never my Custom to make my Judgment a Slave to Authority, or to regulate my own, by the Opinions of others. I'm persuaded that a blind Submission to Vulgar Notions, is one of the most fertil Sources of Error, and that there is nothing

so variable and uncertain, as the Sentiments of Men in different Places and Ages.

I confess the other part of the Objection con∣tains a greater and more puzzling Difficulty. But tho' the Conduct of the Venetian Senate in this Case seems at first View to depend upon some secret Reasons of State, the Mystery lies not so deep but that it may be easily unriddl'd by a mo∣derate Degree of Application. You know that the Government of Venice is purely Aristocratical, and that the Revolutions which happen in such Con∣stitutions, are usually occasion'd by suffering one of the Members of the Body in which the Go∣vernment is lodg'd, to over-top the rest: For an Ambitious Person may be easily tempted by so inviting an Opportunity, to establish the Gran∣deur of his Family by oppressing his Fellow-Ci∣tizens, and to erect a Monarchy upon the Ruines of the Republick. History and Experience furnish us with so many Instances of such Revolutions, and these Examples are so universally known, that 'twou'd be needless either to cite 'em, or to alledge any other Arguments to prove so well-attested a Truth. Now the Senate of Venice, whose Maxims are, without Controversie, grounded on the most re∣fin'd Politicks, making a wise use of the Misfor∣tunes of other States, and being well acquainted with the weak part of their own, have endea∣vour'd to prevent the Inconveniences that might arise from that necessary Flaw in their Consti∣tution, by the most prudent Laws and Proviso's that ever were invented; and their Care for the Preservation of the State has been attended with such excellent Success, that the Republic conti∣nues still to subsist on the same Foundations on which 'twas first establish'd. To give you a Spe∣cimen of the admirable Politicks of that wise Bo∣dy, I shall briefly take notice of some of those

Laws and Customs that are interwoven with the Constitution of their Government. The Doge is entrusted with so small a Share in the Management of the State, that he may be justly call'd a meer Shadow of Grandeur. There are Inquisitors ap∣pointed to have an Eye upon his Actions, who may call him to an Account when they please. He is not allow'd the Liberty of public and familiar Con∣versation, nor suffer'd to appear in the City but on certain Days of Ceremony. The Nobles are forbidden to entertain any correspondence with Foreign Princes, or their Ministers. They are not permitted to wear Arms, to use any Ornaments of Gold or Silver, to keep a numerous Train of Ser∣vants, or to affect any Marks of Grandeur. The Custom of walking in the Broglio was introduc'd to prevent the dangerous Consequences of pri∣vate Cabals. The Inquisitors of State were esta∣blish'd for the Security of the Government; and 'tis the same Consideration that moves 'em to entertain above a Thousand Spies. And to con∣clude, that illustrious Body in which the Go∣vernment is lodg'd, the celebrated Senate of Venice, which knows so well how to maintain its Ho∣nour on other Occasions, keeps neither Guards a∣bout the Place of its meeting, nor a Garrison in the Town; wisely considering, that if ever an In∣surrection shou'd happen, those Mercenary Soldiers, however appointed for the Defence and Preser∣vation of the State, wou'd be made the Instru∣ments of its Ruine.

I will not trouble you with a particular Ac∣count of all the Laws and Regulations that were instituted for the same end, and are still observ'd in this place. But from what has been said on this Subject, you may easily perceive that those prudent Senatours make it their principal Care to prevent Intestine Disorders, and to render the

Nobles incapable of invading the Public Li∣berty.

Now if the Senate shou'd order a Citadel or Fort to be built at Venice, they might with Ju∣stice be accus'd of contriving the Instruments of their own Ruine, and of undermining that No∣ble Fabric, which they have taken so great Care to secure. But they are too wise to be guilty of so fatal a Blunder; and 'tis better to be in some measure expos'd to the Insults of Foreign Inva∣ders, than to lie at the Mercy of Domestic Ene∣mies. Besides they have no Reason to be afraid of their Neighbours; for 'tis the Interest of all the Princes and States of Italy, to preserve the Repub∣lic, that it may continue to be the Bulwark of Christendom on that side, and to counter-balance the Power of the House of Austria. And as for the Turks, they are at too great a Distance to un∣dertake an Expedition against the City.

Thus you see that there are several weighty Considerations that deter the Senate from forti∣fying their Capital City: and there are no less pressing Reasons that oblige 'em to encourage the Vulgar Opinion of its pretended Impregna∣bility.

If I shou'd send you a particular Description of this City, I cou'd only entertain you with a Repetition of what you have read perhaps in a hun∣dred Authors. And therefore I shall content my self with communicating some of my Remarks to you, in a loose and familiar manner.

Some pretend that Venice is built on seventy two Islands or Lagunes, which are separated by such narrow Chanels that they seem to form one little Continent: and there are others who re∣ject this Opinion. I will not undertake to de∣cide the Controversie, but only tell you what I have seen, and leave the whole Matter to your

Judgment. 'Tis certain that Venice is founded on a Spot of Ground that rises at least to the Surface of the Water; for the Earth appears in the Streets, Keys, public Places, and Houses. 'Tis true they are forc'd to make use of Piles, because the Ground is not firm enough to support the Weight of a large Palace without sinking: but that ought not to make us doubt the Truth of a thing that is con∣firm'd by the Testimony of our own Eyes; for the same way of Building is generally us'd in all Moorish or Fenny Places, and particularly in Hol∣land. 'Tis no less certain that this Spot of Ground is at present a Mass of Islands, so that it remains only to consider whether the Canals that sepa∣rate these little Islands be Natural or Artificial. This Question is not easily to be determin'd, for one may alledge very plausible Arguments either for the Affirmative or Negative part. 'Tis pro∣bable the Venetians might dig these Chanels, for the more convenient Carriage of Goods, which by this means are brought to their Doors, and for the Embellishment of the City, which is the on∣ly Town in the World that can boast of such a Situation. But there are so many, and so consi∣derable Reasons, which favour the contrary Opi∣nion, that I'm almost entirely convinc'd of the Truth of it. In the first place, 'Tis plain that the Venetians have taken all possible Care to husband the Ground on which the City is founded. The Streets are so narrow, that in most of 'em three Men cannot walk a-breast, and in some, one Man can hardly pass by another. And the Foundati∣ons of the Houses on one side are laid in the Water, without any Key or Passage betwixt 'em and the Canals. We cannot then suppose, with the least Shadow of Probability, that the Prospect of any Conveniency cou'd oblige 'em to waste so considerable a quantity of that Ground which

they manage so thriftily, that the City is every∣where full of Boundaries, to restrain the Proprietors of the Houses from breaking in upon the Streets. And besides, what Reason can there be alledg'd for their leaving so many large Spots of Ground entire; for tho' you are inform'd that a Man may go in a Boat to any House in the City, you must not take these Words in a strict and literal Sense, but only as a figurative Expres∣sion, to signifie that there are a great Number of such Houses in Venice. I can assure you that there is not a Canal within five hundred Paces round of the House where I lodge; and that there are twenty such Places in the City. I shall only add that the Canals are crooked, and ge∣nerally unequal both in Length and Breadth; which, in my Opinion, may serve to convince any considering Person, that they are not Arti∣ficial.

All the Streets in the City, without Exception, are narrow and crooked; but to make amends for these Disadvantages, they are so clean that one may walk a Year in 'em without meeting with any Dirt: and besides they are pav'd with large square Stones, which always after a Shower grow as white as Marble. In several parts of the City there are little empty places call'd Campi or Fields; which were probably left for the Conveniency of intrenching, if an Enemy shou'd enter the Town; for they are not at all Ornamental. The only considerable Place or Field in Venice, is that of S. Mark, which certainly claims all our Admirati∣on. 'Tis two hundred and fifty Paces long, and eighty broad. The Church of S. Mark faces one of the Ends of it, and that of S. Geminian the other. 'Tis border'd on each side with those state∣ly Piles of Building call'd the Old and New Pro∣••••••aties, which make it, without Controversie, the

most Magnificent Place in the World. The Front of each Procuraty is supported by a large Portico, ten Paces broad; and all along there are double Piazza's, one of which entering into the Building serves for Shops, which are lett by the Signiory to those who sell Perfumes, Li∣monade, and Coffee. The Procurators of S. Mark lodge in these Palaces, which for that Reason are call'd the Procuraties: but when any Foreign Prince comes to take a View of 'em, or on some other Occasions of Public Rejoicing, the Partitions are taken down, so that one may walk from one End to the other, and all the several Apartments are united into one spacious House. That on the Right-hand, as you go to S. Mark's Church, is call'd the New, and that on the Left the Old Procuraty. The first has two principal Fronts, one of which looks into the Place of S. Mark, and the other into the Broglio, over-against the Palace of St. Mark, which is an Ancient and Magnifi∣cent Structure, where all the Councils meet; such as the Grand Council, the Council of the Finances call'd the Ceca, the Marine Council, &c. The Ceca is a distinct Apartment in the Palace of S. Mark; and tho' 'tis built after the same Manner, and with the same Stones, the large Grates and dou∣ble Doors of Iron, with which 'tis inclos'd, make it resemble a Prison rather than a Palace: And besides the Smoak that arises from the Furna∣ces has so penetrated the Stone-Walls, that they are black even within the Chambers. Here the Mo∣ney is coin'd, and the Public Treasure kept in great Iron Chests, secur'd with three Locks, the Keys of which are committed to the Custody of three Procurators, who, under Pain of Death, dare not make the least Attempt to open 'em till they are all met together. The Council sits twice a Week,

which are the only Days for all sorts of Pay∣ments.

The little Arsenal of the Nobles, whose Arms are always kept ready charg'd, is in the same Palace of S. Mark; and the Doge's Apartment is in the Right-Wing, from whence there is a Pas∣sage to the Church, whither he goes sometimes incognito to hear Mass; but usually he per∣forms his Devotions at a private Chapel in his own Apartment.

S. Mark's Church is a large Structure, square on the Out-side, cover'd with four Leaden Domes, of which the largest is in the Middle, without any Spires or Steeples. The Top is surrounded with Stone Balisters for the Conveniency of walk∣ing. You enter the Church thro' a Portico com∣pos'd of five Arches, the highest of which is in the Middle. There you may take a View of those Large and Stately Gates of Brass, which the Venetians brought from Santa Sophia at Constantinople, when they robb'd that City of so many valuable Curiosities to enrich their own. Among the rest, I cannot forbear taking Notice of the four Brazen Horses that are plac'd upon the same Portico. 'Tis Pity they are not more carefully preserv'd; for they are so finely shap'd, that Nature her self cou'd not mend those Artificial Animals. 'Tis true, they have endeavour'd to piece 'em, but all their Care and Skill will never be able to restore 'em to their primitive Beauty.

The Figure of the Church within resembles a Cross, the Quire representing the upper part. 'Tis vaulted throughout, and enrich'd with very fine Mosaic-Work, like that of Santa Sophia, but not near so lasting: for it decays so fast, that they are forc'd to keep some Workmen on purpose to re∣pair it; whereas the other remains entire notwith∣standing its great Antiquity. And besides there is

another Difference betwixt the Mosaic-Work at Ve∣nice, and that at Santa Sophia; for the latter is smooth and plain, whereas the former is full of Fi∣gures. These are the only Pieces of this Nature I have had occasion to see in my Travels, ex∣cept one at Scio. The Floor of the Church is adorn'd with another sort of Mosaic no less preci∣ous than the former, consisting of several small Pieces of Porphyrie, Jasper, and Serpentine or speckl'd Marble, not unlike to the Tables and Ca∣binets of Ebony, that are inlaid with Shells and Naker.

The Arms of all the Doges that have hitherto govern'd the Republic are plac'd round the Walls. They are generally magnificent, and even some of 'em are of Silver curiously wrought. The only Fault I can find in this Church is its Obscurity, which hides the greatest part of its Beauties: For in all other respects 'tis enrich'd with the finest Orna∣ments, such as Altars, Pictures, and Vessels of Gold and Silver. 'Twou'd be needless to present you with a Catalogue of the rare Curiosities that are to be seen either in the Church or Treasury, since you will find 'em all particularly describ'd in a Treatise written by Monsieur de S. Didier.

'Tis Pity the Venetians shou'd have lost the Body of their good Patron, S. Mark, and that their Loss shou'd be attended with this mortifying Circum∣stance, that they know neither the Time nor Oc∣casion of it. 'Tis true the common People believe that he retir'd into a Pillar, which they shew'd me, and that he thrust his Hand out of that Co∣lumn when he gave the Ring to the Doge; but most of 'em scruple not to confess that they know not where he is, nor whither he went.

They made me also take Notice of a Stone, which they pretend is the same that yielded Water to the Israelites, when they were tormented with

Thirst in the Wilderness. If this be true, we must allow that Rock a Power to multiply its Kind; for 'tis still to be seen in the Desarts of Arabia, be∣tween Sues and Tor, as I have heard several credible Persons affirm, as well Christians, as Turks and Moors, who assure me that it stands by it self in the midst of a Sandy Desart; and that one may both easily perceive the Holes that gave a Passage to the Water, and discern the very Track or Print that was made by the Stream.

The next place in Venice that claims a particular Observation, is the Arsenal, which is certainly the best furnish'd Magazine in the World. For tho' it contains no less than two Miles in Compass, 'tis fill'd and even crowded with Cannons, Bombs, Granadoes, Muskets, Sabres, Gun-powder, Ropes, Sails, Anchors, &c. To give you an Estimate of the prodigious Quantity of Ammunition that is hoarded up in this Place, 'twill be sufficient to tell you, that in case of Necessity, 'tis sufficient to arm and equip fifteen Galleys, four Galeasses, as many Ships, and a hundred thousand Men. The Arsenal is govern'd by three Nobles, and under them by the Pilot of the Republic, whom they call the Admiral, who is entrusted with the Care and Inspection both of the Stores, and of two or three hundred Men, that are constantly kept at Work. He never goes to Sea but once a Year, to steer the Bucentaur on Ascension-Day, when the Duke accompany'd by all the Nobles, performs the Ceremony of Wedding the Sea. They set so high a Value upon this Vessel, that the Pilot is oblig'd under Pain of Death to bring it back in Safety; which makes him so cautious in observing the Weather, that when he perceives any Clouds, or the least Appearance of a Wind on the Day ap∣pointed for the Solemnity, he procures it to be de∣lay'd till the next Sunday.

'Tis the Opinion of one, That Venice contains Four hundred Palaces, fit to receive and entertain a King. This is certainly a very bold Assertion; and yet I dare not positively contradict it: for the Pa∣laces are so Numerous and Magnificent, that I may venture, without a Hyperbole, to affirm that they are sufficient to adorn Ten Cities. On the great Canal alone there are at least Two hundred, which seem to out-rival one another, whether you consider the Boldness of the Design, or the Fine∣ness of the Structure; and confound the amaz'd Spectatour with so vast a Medley of different Beau∣ties, that he knows not which to prefer, or where to point at the Principal Object of his Admiration. If your Curiosity shou'd lead you out of the City, to take a View of the neigh∣bouring Continent, especially towards Padua, you wou'd be tempted to fansie your self among the Habitations of the Gods; for every Palace resem∣bles a Magnificent Temple, adorn'd with all the most exquisite Beauties of Architecture. It must be ac∣knowledg'd that the Italians, and particularly the Venetians, are the best Architects in the World; and that the finest Houses in France are not comparable to these Palaces on the Outside.

I shall take this Occasion to give you a gene∣ral Idea of their Manner of Building. The Height of the Edifice is exactly proportion'd to its Big∣ness, according to the nicest Rules of Architecture. The Houses are cover'd with fine Platforms, where a Man may enjoy the Pleasure of walking with∣out going out of his own House; and when he grows weary may either sit down on the Benches, or rest on the Balisters that surround the Platform. The Fronts of the Houses are adorn'd with Portico's, Co∣lumns, Balconies at the Windows, Frizes, Festoons, Niches, and Statues. These Ornaments are accom∣pany'd with Courts, Anti-Courts, delicious Gardens,

Fountains, Grotto's, and all the other Embellish∣ments that a luxurious Fancy can contrive. I can assure you that this is a true and faithful Re∣presentation of these glorious Edifices; and I leave you to judge whether they may not justly be call'd Palaces, and whether any thing cou'd give a higher Idea of the Grandeur of the Venetian No∣bles. The main Reason, in my Opinion, that makes 'em employ so great a part of their Treasure in Building, is because they are not permitted to display their Magnificence any other way. For since they are not suffer'd to consume their Mo∣ney in splendid Equipages, and rich Habits, 'tis plain they must either build, or find some other way to bestow their superfluous Cash. And, 'tis probably the same Restraint that tempts 'em to throw away such vast quantities of Money on Courtezans and at Play. You wou'd hardly be∣lieve me, if I shou'd tell you what prodigious Summs are consum'd every Year at Bassette, especially du∣ring the Carnaval; when the Ridotti or Gaming-Houses are open. None are admitted into these Houses without Masks; that all sorts of People may enjoy an equal Liberty, and that there may be no Occasion for Disputes, nor any Marks of Distinction in a place where every one is welcome for his Money, and where there is always a con∣fus'd Medley of Noblemen, Citizens, Ladies, and Courtezans: Yet this Order is not observ'd with the utmost Rigour; for one that has a false Nose, or counterfeit Whiskers is held to be sufficiently Mask'd. The Nobles keep the Bank, and relieve one another by turns from Morning till Night. They bear good or bad Fortune without discover∣ing the least Alteration either in their Counte∣nance or Humour: and seem as little concern'd when they lose a Thousand Sequins by one Card, as when they gain One by another. I have

had Occasion two or three times to see the Bank broke, but cou'd never perceive the least Sign of Disturbance in the unfortunate Gamester. And which is no less surprizing, I have seen other No∣blemen continue to play with the Loser, upon his bare Word, to the Value of Ten thousand Ducats, which were always punctually paid next Morning. 'Tis true, the Loss does not fall wholly upon one Person, for there are sometimes a Hundred of 'em join'd together; and this is perhaps the main Rea∣son that makes 'em bear their Misfortunes so pa∣tiently. Besides the Bank is seldom a Loser at the last; and the Ridotti are sometimes so full of Money, that they know not where to keep it. All the Cash is entrusted to the Care of some Nobleman, who is usually one of the poorer Sort; and yet 'tis never observ'd that he retains so much as one Peny.

You may expect, in my next, an Answer to your Questions concerning the Nobility.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c

Venice, Jan. 1692.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

I Remember I told you, that the Order of Mal∣ta might be divided into four Classes; and I shall begin this Letter with applying the same Ob∣servation to the Noblemen of Venice: for tho' all who bear that Name are united into one Body, their Families are not equally Illustrious. The first Classis or Rank, consists of those Families who foun∣ded the Republic, and were Noble before that time. The second comprehends those who were elected before the Shutting up of the Council, which was call'd, Il Serrar del Consiglio. The third contains those who obtain'd that Honour as a Re∣compence for some eminent Services done to the State; and are therefore call'd Gentlemen by Me∣rit. And the fourth is made up of Nobili per Soldi, or Gentlemen by Purchase, who bought the Title. But notwithstanding so considerable a Difference in their Pedigrees, they have all an equal Right to give their Voices, and enjoy the same Privileges: All, from the Highest to the Lowest, go to the Great Council, and are honour'd with the Title of Excel∣lency. And even it happens not unfrequently that the most Illustrious Members of that Body are not most respected: for oftentimes a Gentleman of three Days standing is advanc'd to the Dignity of a Procurator, while the Ancient Families, and those that gave a Being to the Republic, are in a mi∣serable Condition. Here, as well as every where else, 'tis the Custom to worship the Rising Sun, and to court those who seem to be the Darlings of For∣tune: The Richest are always esteem'd the Greatest

Lords, and stand fairest for Preferment. However since all Elections are decided by Plurality of Voi∣ces in the Grand Council, the poorer Sort of Gen∣tlemen are treated with more Complaisance than they cou'd expect, if they had not a Right to Vote on such Occasions; since it may sometimes be in their Power to dispose of the Procuratorship, and even of the Ducal Coronet. This puts me in mind of a Story, which perhaps will divert you; you must take it on the Credit of its Authors. There was, say the Venetians, a certain poor Gen∣tleman, who had Occasion to take a Journey into the Country: Before his Departure he went to a Great Lord, who was his Neighbour, and intreat∣ed him to lend him a Cloak; but had the Mor∣tification to receive a flat Denyal, and was forc'd to have Recourse to another. Not long after the Doge di'd, and the rich Nobleman had so great an Inte∣rest in the Council, that when they proceeded to Balloting, he wanted but one Voice to be chosen. In the mean time the poor Gentleman happen'd to come in, and was immediately accosted by his wealthy Neighbour, who, with all imaginable Submission and Respect, begg'd his Voice; and assur'd him, that he wou'd always look upon him as the Author of his Fortune. But the Gentleman remembring his late Incivility, reply'd in an angry and disdainful manner, No, my Lord, you must e'en resolve to go without a Coronet, as you made me go without a Cloak. The Consideration of the fre∣quent Occasions they have to make use of the Assi∣stance of the rest of their Body, makes 'em treat one another with a great deal of Civility, if I may be allow'd to use so weak an Expression to signifie the Compliments and Ceremonious Nice∣ties of their Salutations, which are so extravagant, that in any other Country they wou'd be esteem'd Ridiculous. 'Tis pleasant to observe how they

court one another when they meet on the Brog∣lio: I have often seen Noblemen who stood Can∣didates for the highest Preferments, prostrate them∣selves before a poor Gentleman whose Vest was not worth a Groat, as if he had been a King, or somewhat more than Humane. The Venetian Salutations are quite different from Ours; they perform 'em slowly, to express the Modesty and Humility of their Respect, and bowing their Heads to their very Knees, continue sometimes for the Space of a Minute in that Posture, offering their Service in the most submissive Expressions; after which they raise their Bodies, and immediately begin again, repeating the same Ceremony two or three times. And they are so nicely scrupu∣lous in such Cases, that if any Nobleman shou'd venture to shorten his Reverences, or to imitate the French Air in the least, he wou'd be rec∣kon'd a base Man, who had lost all Sense of Honour.

When a Stranger comes to serve in the Venetian Army, he must immediately learn their Fashions, as the only way to avoid their Hatred, and to raise his own Fortune; tho' it must be acknow∣ledg'd these fawning Ceremonies are extremely troublesome and uneasie. I had occasion t'other Day to see the Entry of a Procurator, and took notice of some Colonels and other Officers who march'd before the Senate to the Church, where they stopt within the Door, and saluted every Nobleman as he pass'd by, with a Reverence, such as I describ'd before; so that for a large Quarter of an Hour they were perpetually em∣ploy'd in that troublesome Task. But besides those profound Reverences, there are a Thousand other Niceties, and nauseous Flatteries, which are the necessary Consequences of their Excessive Civili∣ty. You must weigh every Expression you use

either in Letters or Discourse; for 'tis not enough to avoid the Word Voi or You, which wou'd be reckon'd a Downright Affront, and to use al∣ways the Third Person Lei, or Ella, but you must take care to repeat the most submissive Phrases, such as If it please my Patron, If my Patron vouchsafe to command me, &c. You must still say, My Patron said or did such a thing; and whatever Epithet you bestow upon him, you must never forget to add issimo to the End of it; for 'twou'd be rec∣kon'd a poor Compliment to call a Man Nobile, Docto, or Galanto, instead of which you must say he is Nobilissimo, Doctissimo, and Galantissimo. The same, or rather greater Ceremonies, are observ'd in Writing; I remember I have seen some Letters from the Captain Generals Cornaro and Mocenigo to a Greek Merchant, in which they gave him the Ti∣tle of Molto Illustre Signor. Four Fingers breadth lower the Letter began thus, Ho ricevuto de vostra Signoria molto Illustre, &c. and the rest was all of a Piece: At the End of the Letter were these Words, de vostra Signoria molto illustre, devotissimo Servitore; then a Space of Six Fingers breadth, and the Subscription at the Bottom. I was ex∣tremely surpriz'd at the Extravagancy of these Compliments, when I consider'd the Quality of the Writers, and of him to whom the Letters were directed; and I leave you to judge what Ceremonies must be observ'd between Equals. A Letter to a Nobleman must be directed thus, Al' Illustrissimo & Excellentissimo Signor, & mio Padrone Colendissimo, il Signor, &c. and the Body of the Let∣ter must be sutable to the flattering Superscripti∣on. You must take care to give every Man the Titles that are appropriated to Persons of his Rank and Quality: Thus when you speak to a Trades∣man, you must call him Signor Pietro, or Signor Paolo; to a Citizen or Merchant you must say Vostra

Signoria, and, in Letters, Vostra Signoria molto Illu∣stre. A Counsellor, Physician, Notary, or a Gentleman who is a Subject is styl'd la Signoria Illustrissima; The proper Title of the Nobles is l' Excellenza; and the Doge is usually call'd la Serenita, or il Serenissimo; for they rarely say il Dogio. But when they say il Principe, they always mean the Re∣public. Thus all Orders and Proclamations begin thus, Il Serenissimo Principe fa sapere; The most Serene Prince declares, or gives Notice: And tis usually said in familiar Discourse, Il Principe ha prohibito le Pom∣pe; The Prince has prohibited the wearing of Costly Appa∣rel, &c. Thus they speak when they do not so much as think of the Doge, who has no more Power to make such Regulations, than the mean∣est Officer that belongs to the Republic; and far from being a Soveraign, he is so much a Sub∣ject, that he dares hardly move one Inch with∣out Orders. Francis Morosini, the present Doge, was elected to that Dignity in April 1688, while he was obtaining Victories for the Republick abroad. And yet as told and infirmas he is, he was forc'd to continue in that fatiguing Employment, and at last, with much ado, and after a whole Year spent in humble and earnest Solicitations, he obtain'd leave to quit the Service, and return'd to Venice last Year. He is the first Doge that ever enter'd the City with the Ducal Coronet on his Head: Nor cou'd the Senate refuse to grant some unu∣sual Mark of Honour to the Conqueror of all Morea. However, I'm strongly inclin'd to suspect that the main Consideration which made him so uneasie till he had obtain'd a Permission to leave the Army, was his Fear of losing the Glory he had acquir'd. And you will be of the same O∣pinion if you consider the ill Success of his At∣tempt upon Negropont; and the slow Progress he made in the Siege of Napoli di Malvasia, which

held out two Years against him, and was still in so good a Condition at his Departure, that there was little or no hope of reducing it; tho' for want of Provisions the Garrison was oblig'd to surren∣der the Place to the General during the last Campaign.

The length of this Siege puts me in mind of Candy, which for so long a time was attack'd and defended with equal Obstinacy and Vigour. 'Twas the same Morosini who commanded in the Place, and the Senate being unwilling to waste so much Blood and Treasure in the Defence of a Place which, after all, they cou'd not hope to preserve, sent him positive Orders to Capitulate. But he was so desirous of Glory, and had so mean an Opinion of the Turkish Valour, that he assur'd the Senate, if they wou'd continue to supply him with necessary Provisions, he wou'd either save the Place, or bury himself under its Ruines. Yet, for all his bravery, he was forc'd to submit to the Chance of War, without performing ei∣ther part of his Promise: And at his return to Venice he had the mortification to meet with a ve∣ry bad Reception on the Broglio. Some of the No∣bles were so incens'd against him, that they dis∣cover'd their Spite by abusing him to his Face, asking by way of Derision, Ha! is not this Moro∣sini; while others reply'd with equal Bitterness and Contempt, No, no, that can't be the Man who promis'd to bury himself under the Ruines of Candy, if he shou'd find himself unable to preserve it. But the Ma∣lice of his Enemies did not evaporate in Jests, they were not satisfy'd with so poor a Revenge, but prosecuted him so warmly, that his Head was in a tottering Condition. One of 'em represent∣ed his Crime to the Council, and in a vehement and pathetic Discourse, accus'd him of abusing the Senate, by promising such things as he cou'd not

perform, and of engaging the Republick in a pro∣digious Charge, which might have been better employ'd another way. Nor was this the single Opinion of one Person, for several others voted him guilty: Yet his good Fortune deliver'd him from so great a Danger, and has now set the Co∣ronet on his Head; he is somewhat lean, and of a middle Stature; his Hair and Beard are white; he wears Whiskers, and a little Tuft of Hair up∣on his Chin. I saw him at the Entry of his Kinsman the Procurator Morosini; and since I have occasion again to speak of that Solemnity, which I only mention'd before, I shall now give you a particular Account of it: But before I describe the Order of the Cavalcade, it will not be im∣proper to acquaint you with the Preparations that were made in the Church of S. Mark.

From the Door of the Nave or Body of the Church to that of the Quire, there was a Lane border'd with Rows of Benches, thro' which the Doge and Procurators were to pass; and both the Floor and Benches were cover'd with Turkish Tapestry. The Quire was also full of Benches, without any Difference or Mark of Distinction; only the Doge's Place was cover'd with red Velvet; and besides, there was a Cushion of the same Velvet at his Feet, and another on the Place where he lean'd at Prayer. The Altar was embellish'd with the richest Jewels, Relicks, Candlesticks, and other Or∣naments; and the Patiarch's great Vicar waited in his Seat for the Doge's coming. He wore a Chasuble embroider'd with Pearls, worth above 6000 Ducats; and the Hangings of the Altar were no less rich.

The Church being thus prepar'd, the Signiory or Noblemen began their Cavalcade from the Hall of the Great Council in S. Mark's Palace, where they were assembl'd to assist at the Solemnity.

In the first place march'd the Doge's Servants, to the Number of Forty, in long Livery Cloaks. Then came the Societies of Tradesmen, or rather a confus'd Company of private Persons who came of their own accord to honour the new Procu∣rator; for their Presence was not requir'd by any positive Order. These were follow'd by a Hundred Sclavonian Soldiers, arm'd only with Sa∣bres, who had obtain'd leave to come from the Army, and appear'd on this Occasion at the desire of their Commanders. Twelve or Fifteen Offi∣cers march'd before 'em, among whom was a Ser∣geant Major; and there were some also in the Rear. These Officers were not arm'd, because they came voluntarily, not by command; for at Venice every Man is welcome on such Occasions, tho' he be not invited. Then came the Eight Standards of the Republick, Two Red, Two White, Two Blue, and Two of a Violet-colour; the Red being carry'd first, to signifie the present War. These were immediately follow'd by the Signiory, who march'd Two and Two, in open-sleev'd Gowns, or Robes of Red Cloth furr'd with Ermines. There were at least Three hundred Nobles, comprehen∣ding the Senators and the Procurators, who form'd the last Ranks, and consequently were next the Doge. He that made his Entry walk'd among the rest, without any Mark of Distincti∣on either in his Habit, or any other Respect; so that if some Persons had not shew'd him to to me, I cou'd not have distinguish'd him from the rest of the Procurators. The Robes or Gowns of all the Procurators are exactly alike; nor is there any difference among the Nobles in respect of their Habits; that so none may pretend to Su∣periority over another. After them came the Doge, who represents the Soveraign: He had a Vest of Red Brocado, with Gold Flowers, and

over that a Duc•••• Mantle, of a very rich Stuff of Gold. His Coronet is a Cap of Past∣board neatly cover'd with the same rich Stuff, and adorn'd with some Galoons, without either Pearls or Precious Stones. There is a sort of Point on the hinder part of the Cap, that bends a little forwards. The magnificent Coronet that is kept in the Treasury, is only us'd on the Day of the Doge's Coronation. He was accompany'd on the Right-hand by the Pope's Nuncio, and on the Left by the French Ambassador, Monsieur de la Haye. The first was in a Camail and Rochet, and the other in a black Cloak. Two Citizens bore the Doge's Train, which otherwise wou'd have trail'd above four Feet on the Ground. Last of all march'd Fifty or Sixty Nobles, in the same Or∣der as before. As the Noblemen pass'd by, there were certain old and young Women that strew'd the Way with Flowers and Green Leaves, espe∣cially before the Doge: In the mean time the Guns at the Arsenal were fir'd, and the Compa∣ny was entertain'd with the Noise of the Prince's Trumpets and Kettle-Drums, which were plac'd on the Top of the Portico of the Church, be∣tween the two Brazen Horses, from whence they might be easily heard, because 'tis not Three hun∣dred Paces from thence to the Hall of the Great Council. As soon as the Doge enter'd, he went immediately to perform his Devotions upon the Steps of the Altar, where he kneel'd without a Cushion. As he return'd to his Place, the Nun∣cio happen'd to be on his Left-hand, and the Ambassador on his Right, but they instantly chang'd Places, and proceeded as before to the Place where the Doge was to sit. After the Doge had seated himself, the Nuncio sate down on his Right-hand, and Monsieur de la Haye took his Place on the Right-hand of the Nuncio; so that

the Nuncio sate between the Doge and the Am∣bassador. This preposterous Order will perhaps surprize you; for according to the Ceremonies that are observ'd on such Occasions, the Doge ought to have sate in the Middle: But I had forgot to tell you, that there was no particular Place appointed for the Doge, neither a Tribune, Pew, nor so much as an arm'd Chair; so that he was forc'd to make use of the Seat that be∣longs to the Dean of the Canons, which is the first on the Right-hand next the Door of the Quire. The rest of the Seats in the same Row were fill'd by the Procurators and Senators; so that the Doge had only the first Place among the Senators, without any other Mark of Distinction than the red Velvet with which his Seat was cover'd.

The Doge's Behaviour during the Mass was not very edifying, for he spent the whole time in discoursing with the Nuncio and the French Am∣bassador, and express'd a great deal of Earnestness by his Actions. Tho' I cou'd not pretend to divine the Subject of his Discourse, I cou'd easily perceive that he talk'd of some important Affair; for Monsieur de la Haye rose from his Place, and talk'd with him above a quarter of an Hour, chusing rather to stand while the Nuncio sate, and to turn his Back to the Altar, than to lose the Opportunity of imparting something with which, in all probability, he long'd to entertain him. After the Mass was ended, the Doge and Nobles return'd in the same Order as before, to the Palace of S. Mark, where they were regal'd by the New Procurator with a splendid Collation of Wax, for so it might be properly call'd, since most of the Dishes contain'd nothing else. The whole Table was cover'd with Trophies, Confections, Turky-Cocks, Partridges, and Fruits represented in Wax,

excepting two or three Places where there were Dishes of good and delicious Victuals: For the Italian Cooks are at least as skilful as ours. I ne∣ver saw People eat more heartily than these Gen∣tlemen, and I'm apt to believe that their Cu∣stom of serving up the Dishes singly might sharpen their Appetite; for 'tis certain that the very sight of a full Table cloys the Stomach. Yet I cou'd not forbear telling one of the Company, that this manner of Entertainment, and especially the Feast of Trophies was very odd and ridiculous: But the Person to whom I addrest my self, made a shift to answer my Objection by pretending that they observ'd this Method to avoid the trouble of co∣vering so large a Table several times, which cou'd not be done without Confusion.

That and the two following Days were spent in rejoycing; The Streets were full of People in Masquerade, and the Merchants expos'd their rich∣est Commodities. There was nothing to be seen in the Shops but Brocado's of Gold and Silver, Galoons, Fringes, and Ribbons; Sonnets in Ho∣nour of the Procurator were scatter'd about by Thousands, and Prints of him every where hung out. At Night there were great Illuminations at his Palace, and at that of S. Mark; and the whole City in the general seem'd to be full of Joy; tho' 'tis certain the Pomp wou'd have been much greater if the Magistrates, to whom the Re∣gulation of such Ceremonies does properly be∣long, had not publish'd an Order three Days be∣fore, to moderate the Expence of the Solemnity: For otherwise the whole City wou'd have been illuminated, the Ladies wou'd have adorn'd them∣selves with Pearls and Jewels, all the Lacqueys wou'd have appear'd in Liveries, and the Canal wou'd have been cover'd with magnificent Gon∣dola's, embellish'd with Flaggs and Streamers, and

fill'd with Consorts of Musick. Besides the Pro∣curator's Friends wou'd have signaliz'd their Joy in a particular manner, by Feasts, Illuminations, and Fire-Works: But all this Pageantry was pre∣vented by a positive Order from the above-menti∣on'd Tribunal. At the same time, another Edict was publish'd, which concerns all Persons in gene∣ral, and is only a Repetition of those Regulations that were formerly made on such Occasions. By this last Order all Venetians, whether Nobles or Citizens, are prohibited to wear any sort of Stuff, embroider'd Fringe or Galoon, of Gold, Sil∣ver, Steel, or any thing that shines or casts a Lu∣stre. The same Edict forbids Lace, new Fashi∣ons of Cloaths, Liveries, and the Painting or Adorning of Gondola's; and restrains the Women from using Gold or Silver Ribbons, and from wear∣ing above three Rows of Fringes or Lace on their Pettycoats, and even those Ornaments must only be worn on the Fore-part of the Pettycoat. But those who are call'd Novices are allow'd, during the two first Years of their Noviciate, to wear a String of Pearls, and a Gold Fringe about their Pettycoats. The Novices are such as are newly married.

All Strangers are excus'd from complying with this Order for six Months after the Day of their Arrival; but assoon as that time is expir'd, they must submit to the Custom as well as the Natives, unless they belong to the Retinue of an Ambassa∣dour; tho' Offences of this Nature are rarely punish'd.

When I consider the extreme Eagerness with which the Noble Venetians contend for the Ducal Dignity, I cannot forbear reflecting on the Weak∣ness of Humane Nature, which exposes us to the most fatal Delusions, and prompts us to court the dazzling Appearances of Grandeur, tho' we are

convinc'd of the Vanity of that Enjoyment in which we seem to place our Happiness. For, in my Opinion, the Condition of a simple Senatour is infinitely more happy than that of the Doge. He is permitted to enjoy the Pleasure of Walk∣ing, to visit his Friends, and to go to the Opera and Ridotti. He is not perpetually watch'd, and haunted Night and Day by a Multitude of Spies, under the Name of Counsellours; nor is he ob∣lig'd to give an exact Account of his Actions. But the Doge is a gawdy Slave loaded with Fetters, which are not the less heavy because they are gilded: And his Authority extends no farther, than to no∣minate some Officers of the Palace, and to create some Knights of S. Mark.

This Order of Knighthood may be divided into three Classes or Ranks. The First comprehends the Knights of the Golden Star, who are all Noble Vene∣ians, that owe their Dignity to their Merit, and wear a Star border'd with a Gold Galoon. The Second Rank consists of the Knights of S. Mark, who are call'd Knights of the Senate: And this Ho∣nour is usually conferr'd as a Recompence, on Co∣lonels, and even sometimes on Captains, who have signaliz'd their Bravery in an extraordinary man∣ner, or render'd some important Services to the Republic. The Captain-General recommends the Person to the Senate, who, if the Bal∣loting run in his Favour, receives the Order, and with it a Pension of at least a Thousand Ducats a Year. These Knights wear a Medal at one of their Button-holes, with the Figure of S. Mark on one Side, and a Device on the Reverse, ac∣cording to the Pleasure of the Senate. They are honour'd with the Title of Illustrissimo, and are much respected: but the Dignity is indifferently bestow'd upon all, whether Noble or Ignoble, Venetians or Foreigners. The Third and last Rank is made up

of the Doge's Knights, who confers the Honour on whom he pleases, and oftentimes on those who never wore a Sword; for any Man may purchase the Title of Illustrissimo at the Rate of a Hundred Sequins, which, if I am not mistaken, is the usual Price of this Dignity. Yet notwith∣standing the Lowness of the Rate, the Doge finds but few Customers; for the Italians are not over∣fond of so unprofitable Honour. So that this Classis of Knights consists chiefly of Foreign Officers, who receive some Benefit by the Title; since it not only procures 'em a more than ordinary Respect, but confirms 'em in the Possession of their Em∣ployments.

Since the mentioning of these Officers puts me in mind of the Venetian Army, I shall take this Occa∣sion to give you some Account of the Forces that are maintain'd by the Republick. The total Number of the Soldiers both at Land and Sea, hardly amounts to Four and twenty thousand; and of these there are usually Twelve or Fifteen thou∣sand in the Field. The Captain-General, who com∣mands 'em, is always a Noble Venetian, and has under him a General of the Land-Forces, Lieutenant-Generals, and Sergeant-Majors, who are almost al∣always Foreigners; for the Noble Venetians are not very ambitious of Military Employments. 'Tis true, they cannot be accus'd of Want of Cou∣rage; but since a Soldier must serve his Appren∣ticeship with his Musquet on his Shoulder, be∣fore he can attain to any Perfection in his Art, they cannot endure to think of stooping so low: and even there is hardly one of 'em that wou'd not think it beneath him to accept a Captain's Com∣mission. The Soldiers are for the most part Fo∣reigners, as well as the Generals; for, except three or four small Italian Regiments, which are not much esteem'd, the rest of the Army consists ei∣ther

of Germans, or Frenchmen, whom they call Tra∣montani. The Pay of Foreigners is double to that which is allow'd to the Italians; and no Captain must receive a Soldier of another Nation into his Compa∣ny, under Pain of being cashier'd without Remission. But the same Order is not observ'd in the Italian Regiments, for any Man may be admitted to serve in 'em. And since the Foreign Captains wou'd be at a Loss for want of Men, the Re∣public takes care to supply 'em with Recruits: Only they must be very cautious in preventing the Desertion of their Men; for when a Compa∣ny is extremely diminish'd, the Captain is always reform'd, and the Soldiers serve to recruit the rest of the Regiment. I know several Officers, who lost their Places by Misfortunes of this Nature; which sometimes cannot be avoided, especially a∣mong the French, who desert by Hundreds at a time. If it were not for this only Inconvenien∣cy, I shou'd have a very good Opinion of the Venetian Service; for a Foreign Captain has no less than a Hundred Ducats a Month, which makes Two hundred and fifty French Livres; a Lieutenant has Thirty, and an Ensign Twenty five. Besides there is not a Place in the World where a Soldier has a nearer Prospect of Advancement; for since the Army is not very Numerous, and the Noble Ve∣netians never pretend to Military Preferments, a Stranger has a fair Opportunity of raising his For∣tune: So that a Captain must either be extreme∣ly unfortunate, or negligent in the Performance of his Duty, if his Service be not rewarded with a Colonel's Commission, or even with more con∣siderable Preferment. The Army is full of Sergeant-Majors, who owe their Fortune meerly to their Merit; and there is no Post so high which a brave Man may not in time hope to obtain. 'Tis a wonderful Encouragement to a Young Aspirer,

to see daily so many Examples that flatter and ex∣cite his Ambition. Besides their travelling by Sea frees 'em from the Charge of providing an Equipage; which is a great Advantage to those who are not over-stock'd with Money. Add to these Conveniencies the free and unconstrain'd Way of living a-la-mode de Venice; and it must be ac∣knowledg'd, that a Man may easily chuse a less com∣fortable Employment. I know the World has ge∣nerally so bad an Opinion of the Venetian Service, that 'tis usually the last Refuge of those who are reduc'd to Extremity: Nor am I ignorant that the Officers are not here on the same Foot as in France, and that the meanest Scoundrels find Admittance; but, after all, the Service is not really less advantageous for these Inconvenien∣cies.

But, as for the Common Soldiers, their Condi∣tion is so miserable, that I wou'd rather chuse to serve a Tinker, than to carry a Musquet at Ve∣nice. Their Pay amounts to no more than Three Pence a Day; and besides they must furnish their own Clothes. Judge then what Provision they can make for their Bellies, and whether their Desertion can be reckon'd a Fault. Those who serve at Sea have the same Pay, and Clothes in∣to the Bargain; but they must buy their Provisi∣ons, for they are allow'd only Bread and Water. There are Eleven Ships belonging to the Republic, commanded by the Captain-General; for there is no Admiral. But besides the little Care that is ta∣ken to keep 'em in Repair, they are so defective in all Respects, that they hardly deserve the Name of Ships, much less of Men of War. In every Ship there is a Noble Venetian, with the Title of Com∣mander, who pehaps never saw a Mast before his coming on Board: but he has under him a Cap∣tain, whom he consults, or rather suffers to com∣mand.

These Captains (who are usually old and expert Pilots) have Thirty Ducats a Month besides their Entertainment; and may in time be ad∣vanc'd to the Command of a Merchant-Ship, if the Owners think fit to trust 'em. The Ban∣ner of Venice is Red, with a Lyon in the Middle, holding an open Book in one of his Paws, with these Words, Pax tibi, Marce, Evangelista meus. Many take this Lyon for the Arms of Venice, but they are extremely mistaken; for the Republic has no Coat of Arms, and wou'd be loth to adorn a Scutcheon with that Sacred Beast, whom they honour as an Emblem of S. Mark, or rather that Evangelist himself represented under the Figure of a Lyon. I knew that Painters usually give that Saint a Lyon for his Companion; but I cou'd not believe that the Venetian Lyon was the Saint himself, till I was convinc'd by the repeated Af∣firmations of several credible Persons, and even of some Noblemen; who, to satisfie my Scruples, told me the following Story.

S. Mark was a Youth of such exquisite Beauty, that his only Sister fell so desperately in Love with him, that notwithstanding all his Holy Ad∣monitions, she haunted him Night and Day, fol∣low'd him whithersoever he went, and continu∣ally begg'd him to satisfie her Passion. At last the young Saint perceiving that all his Severity cou'd not extinguish her Criminal Flame, besought God to transform him into the most hideous Creature in the World. His Prayer was grant∣ed, and he was instantly turn'd to a Lyon, whose gaping Mouth, and horrid Roaring, so terrify'd his Sister, that immediately she fell upon her Knees, pray'd to God to forgive her, and was convert∣ed. The Open Book he holds in his Talons, re∣presents the Gospel, of which they pretend to have the Original in the Treasury; and the

Words that are written in it are the same with which Christ saluted him when he came to visit him in Prison.

Perhaps you'll think that this Story deserves a place in Ovid's Metamorphoses; but I can assure you the Venetians are oblig'd to believe it, under Pain of being accounted Hereticks. Sometimes they represent him with, and sometimes without Wings, but they seldom or never forget to draw Rays about his Head; and very often the Doge is painted kneeling before him. At least he is thus represented in all the most remarkable Pla∣ces, such as the Front of the Palace of S. Mark, &c.

I'm sensible I have already detain'd you too long, but I must not finish my Letter before I have finish'd the Account I promis'd to give you of the Venetian Nobles. I had form'd so strange an Idea from the Character I had receiv'd of 'em, that I look'd upon 'em as the most Haughty and Ill-natur'd Men in the World. And even a Fa∣mous Author has the Confidence to affirm that one of their usual Recreations is to affront Stran∣gers who seem to be Persons of Note; thrusting 'em into the Canal as they walk along the Streets, spitting upon 'em at the Opera, beating 'em with flaming Torches, and hiring Bravo's to murder 'em. Yet to do Justice to that Illustrious Body, I can assure you, that I never met with more civil and obliging Persons in the World. I have the Honour to know two or three of 'em, and perceive daily so many conspicuous Marks of good Nature in all their Actions, that I cannot, with∣out Indignation, reflect on the Impudence of those who have so unjustly blacken'd their Character. 'Tis true, they take Care to maintain the Ho∣nour of their Birth, and their Authority over the Citizens and the rest of their Subjects: but they

are so far from insulting or tyrannizing over 'em, that they are always ready to grant their Protection to honest Men; and as for Strangers, there is not a City in the World where they meet with a kinder and more civil Entertainment. They may do what they please, for no Man ei∣ther enquires into, or comments upon their Acti∣ons; and when they meet with a Nobleman, they are treated with all imaginable Marks of Honour and Civility. There are several Coffee-Houses under the Procuraties, some of which are set apart for the Nobility; and that Order is so strictly observ'd that a Citizen never enters into 'em. But if a Foreigner, who has the Appearance of a Gentle∣man, go in to one of these Places, all the No∣bles that are there begin immediately to caress him; and there is not one of 'em who wou'd not willingly embrace the Offer of his Acquaintance, provided he belongs not to the Retinue of an Ambassador: for they are severely prohibited by the Laws of the State to entertain any correspon∣dence with such Persons.

As for the Bravo's, I will not pretend to af∣firm that Venice was never plagu'd with those barbarous and inhuman Murderers. It must be acknowledg'd that the Senate tolerated these Abu∣ses too long: There was a time when some No∣bles kept Fifteen or Twenty o•• those Ruffians; and there were others who were still ready to serve any Man in their Way, that is, for so ma∣ny Sequins wou'd agree to kill a Man, or to break his Arms for such a Number of Ducats. But the Face of Affairs is wonderfully chang'd since that time, and so vast a Number of those Villains have ended their Lives either on a Gibbet, or in the Galleys, that the Race of 'em seems to be quite extinct. The Shirts of Mail that were sold in those Days for Fifty Pistoles a-piece, are now sold

for half a Crown to Fishermen, who use 'em for catching Oysters: For these Cautions, that were once thought so necessary for preventing secret As∣sassinations, are now become so useless, that one may walk as secure thro' the City by Night as by Day, and during the Carnaval as in Lent: At least I have not yet heard of any Disord••rs since my Arrival. On the contrary, I shou'd never de∣sire to converse with a more harmless and peace∣able People; and if there are any Insolencies com∣mitted, I shou'd rather accuse the French as the Authors of 'em, who in this, as well as in all other Places, assume those Liberties by which they affect to distinguish themselves from other Nations. On∣ly I wou'd not advise any Man to hunt too bold∣ly in a Nobleman's Inclosure; for 'tis certain that there is none of 'em so Complaisant as to see his Wife kiss'd, without resenting the Affront, and that notwithstanding the seeming Extirpation of the Bravo's, the injur'd Nobleman wou'd quickly find a sufficient Number of 'em to execute his Revenge. Their Jealousie is accompany'd with so implacable a Fury, that they wou'd rather ruine themselves and their whole Family, than suffer a bold Intruder into their secret Delights to escape unpunish'd; and after they had sacrific'd the Lo∣ver to their Rage, they wou'd infallibly compleat their Revenge by the Death of her who betray'd 'em. Such Accidents have sometimes happen'd, and 'tis to be observ'd, that in such Cases the Se∣nate never enquires into the Murder. For every Nobleman may poison his Wife for Adultery, and cause her Gallant to be poniarded, without fear∣ing to be call'd in question for so bloody a Re∣venge; since 'tis suppos'd that no Man wou'd have recourse to such violent Methods, if he were not fully convinc'd of his Wife's Infidelity. I confess this way of satisfying their Revenge seems at first

View to be extremely base and unworthy of a Man of Honour: But you will be the less surpriz'd at their manner of Proceeding in these Cases, if you con∣sider that, notwithstanding their Nobility, 'tis not their Profession to bear Arms. For they are as much Men of the Gown as the Presidents of the Par∣liament at Paris; and are therefore under a sort of Obligation to abstain from Duels. Neverthe∣less since 'tis not just that they shou'd tamely suf∣fer themselves to be Cuckolded, they must exe∣cute their Vengeance by Proxy, since their Pro∣fession restrains em from making their own Hands the Instruments of their Revenge.

I shall in the next place give you a short Ac∣count of their Habit: They wear a black Gown exactly like that of a Minime Friar; only 'tis longer, wider, and open before; the Sleeves are so big that they hang down almost to the Ground, and they have a little Collar or Neckband like that which is us'd by the Jesuites. In the Win∣ter their Gowns are lin'd with a greyish Fur, which reaches a hands-breadth beyond the Cloth, all along the Breast, and are ty'd about with a Leathern-Girdle, adorn'd with Silver Buckles and Bosses. In Summer they use neither Girdles nor Furrs; for they wear their Vests loose by reason of the Heat, and line 'em with very thin Taffata: But they still wear Cloth Gowns of the same big∣ness as in Winter. On their Shoulders they wear a sort of Bag or Hood of the same Cloth, call'd the Stole, 18 or 20 Inches broad, and twice as long, which is extremely troublesome. Under their Gowns they have only a little Doublet, almost quite cover'd with black Lace, and adorn'd with Ribbans at the turning up of the Sleeves. Their Shirts are always very white and fine. Their Breeches are open and very wide, like those that were us'd by Citizens in France Fifty Years ago;

and they are also full of Lace and Ribbans. This Garb is both stately and cheap; for a Gown lasts at least three or four Years. The only Fault I find in their Habit is that they use neither Bands nor Cravates. Formerly they were oblig'd to wear their own Hair, but now they use the finest and longest Periwigs, which is certainly one of the most necessary parts of their Dress: for their Caps are so ill-contriv'd, that there can be nothing more proper to disfigure a Man's Face, which perhaps is the reason why at present they only wear 'em in their Hands like a Fan.

These Nobles, notwithstanding the Dignity of their Character, scruple not to go to the Market, and buy all the little Provisions that are requir'd for the maintaining of a Family. But I believe they are injur'd by those who pretend that they carry home their Provisions in the Sleeves of their Gowns; for there are Porters or Cestarioli, who have no other Occupation, and whose Hire is so small, that even the meanest Tradesmen make use of 'em. Nor must you imagine that the Principal and Rich Nobles buy their own Provisions; for the Markets are only frequented by the poorer sort of Gentlemen, of whom there is a considerable Num∣ber, and whose Condition is the more deplorable, because they must not endeavour to improve it by Trading.

I know not what Apology to make for the ex∣cessive Length of my Letter, unless you will be satisfy'd with that common Excuse for all sorts of Faults, that I did not intend it. I confess that will not make amends for the trouble I have gi∣ven you, but I hope you'll for once admit a Plea that can never be more justly urg'd than in Ca∣ses of this Nature; for it oftentimes happens, that when a Man comes to the End of the Leaf where he design'd to have ended his Letter, he

finds himself oblig'd to begin another, and per∣haps two or three before he can finish his Mat∣ter.

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Venice, 1692.

LETTER XXIX.

SIR,

I Have seen the famous Ceremony of Ascension-Day, and was so transported with Pleasure at the Sight of that celebrated Solemnity, that I was strongly tempted, and almost fully resolv'd to send you a Description of it. But upon second and cooler Thoughts, I consider'd that I cou'd add nothing to what so many Authors have already said on that Subject, and therefore I shall only tell you, that the prodigious Quantity of Gondola's that cover'd the whole Surface of the Sea from Venice to the Mouth of the Lido, made me almost give Credit to the usual Computation of the Venetians, who affirm, that there are Five and twenty Thou∣sand Gondola's in the City. The Number of those little Vessels might be more easily calculated than that of the Inhabitants; because every Gondolier is ob∣lig'd to pay a certain Tax to the State. The Dexterity of these Boatmen is surprizing, and even almost incredible; for tho' they seem to fly as swift as a Bird, and tho' the Canals are both narrow, and in several Places cross one another, they never run foul of those whom they meet.

To avoid the Disorders that happen on such Oc∣casions, they make a Noise at each Corner of the Canal to give Warning to those that are within the reach of their Voice, who answer in a Dia∣lect consisting of Words that are only known to themselves, such as Preci, Prami, and Sia, which they understand so well, that immediately they turn their Gondola's, and pass by without touch∣ing one another. These Gondola's, which are all made after the same Fashion, from that which belongs to the first Procurator to those that are commonly hir'd, are a sort of flat-bottom'd, nar∣row, and very long Boats. In the middle there is a little Chamber cover'd with course black Serge, with an Opening before instead of a Door; and on each Side there is a Window that may be shut with Curtains, or sometimes with a Piece of the same Serge which hangs at the Top of the Gondola, and is usually turn'd up in fair Weather. The Price of a Gondola ready made amounts to five and twenty Ducats; but in those that belong to some of the principal Noblemen, there are Grates that sometimes cost above a Hundred Crowns; and besides, the Windows may be a∣dorn'd with Glasses like those that are us'd on Coaches; which is all the Embellishment that is allow'd by the Republick. The meanest Gondolier earns half a Ducat a Day; and there are some who will not serve under a Crown: So that con∣sidering that every Gondola requires four Men, it will be found at the End of the Reckoning that one of these Boats consumes as much Money as the keeping of a Coach and Six Horses.

The Ceremony of the Bucentaur, according to the usual Custom, was succeeded by a very mag∣nificent Feast, that lasted Fifteen Days. This may be reckon'd a second Carnaval, and does really ex∣ceed the first. 'Tis true, there are no Opera's nor

Comedies, but that Defect is more than supply'd by the enlivening Beauty of the Season, and by one of the finest and richest Fairs in Europe, which is kept in the Place of S. Mark, and in the Brog∣lio, where the Shops are rank'd with such a har∣monious Proportion and Uniformity, that one wou'd think it were a City purposely built for Pleasure. The Street of the Goldsmiths, and that of the Mercers are extremely magnificent; for the Shops are full of the richest Commodities, and every Morning and Evening one may have the Pleasure to see the best Company in Town, and especially the Ladies, who come to oblige the longing Spectators with a View of their Charms, and to make Strangers confess that they are bet∣ter furnish'd with the noblest Ornament of their Sex than all the most celebrated Beauties in o∣ther Countries. And I cannot forbear adding up∣on this Occasion, that the Liberty I observ'd in this Place seems to be altogether inconsistent with the Slavery which these fair ones are said to suf∣fer. 'Tis certain that the Ladies in this Place are more closely confin'd than in France; but their Restraint is not so severe as we commonly ima∣gine. 'Tis true, 'twou'd be thought indecent for a Woman to walk, or to entertain a private Dis∣course with those of our Sex; nor is it usual for Ladies to make Matches for Gaming. But to make amends for these Niceties, they are permit∣ted to see Opera's and Plays, to go to the Ridotti, the Fresco, and Fairs, and to walk about the Streets in Masquerade, either alone or in Com∣pany. I leave you to judge whether their Con∣finement be so rigorous as 'tis usually represented, and whether they have reason to complain of the Severity of their Husbands. For my part, I'm apt to think that there are few Men in France or Holland that wou'd willingly allow their Wives the

Liberty to go abroad without any other Compa∣ny than one or two Maids, and after they have run Masqu'd about the Streets all Day long, to pop into a publick Gaming-House, where there are more Courtesans than any other Company. This is the usual Recreation of the Venetian Ladies, which they daily use without exposing themselves to their Husband's Anger, or the Censure of their Neighbours; tho' in such Frolicks they meet with many a fair Opportunity of indulging themselves in more criminal Diversions; for they are perpe∣tually surrounded with Temptations, and 'tis impossi∣ble for a Lady to ramble about a whole Day with∣out hearing Twenty Compliments of that Nature. 'Tis the Custom of the Place, and the particular Privilege both of the Carnaval and Fair, that any Man may demand the last Favour of a Woman whom he finds alone in a Vizor-Mask; for that Circumstance alone gives her the Denomination of Signora Mascara, and she's reckon'd as lawful Prize as if she were cloath'd in the obscenest and most extravagant Garb. You may freely accost any Woman that wears this Badge, without put∣ting off your Hat, or using any other Ceremony whatsoever; but if they return no Answer to your second or third Question, you may leave off your Courtship, and conclude that they will not be debauch'd. Nevertheless 'tis highly dangerous to use the same Freedom with a Lady that walks without a Mask; for in such Cases we are only allow'd the Privilege of Gazing and Wishing, and all other Liberties are so rigorously prohibi∣ted, that the highest Affront that can be offer'd to a Woman, is to salute her; for none but Curte∣zans will permit that Freedom.

These Masquerades are not only very diverting, but extremely commodious for several sorts of People. How many Persons are there who wou'd be con∣fin'd

to their Houses by the Gravity of their Cha∣racter, if such a Disguise did not give 'em an Opportunity of sharing in the publi•• Diversions. How many Princes, Dukes, Procurators, and other Persons of high Quality, take the Advantage of so savourable an Occasion to shake off that Load of Grandeur with which they are continually op∣press'd; and breaking loose from their gawdy Prisons, ramble about Incognito among the Crowd, and find more Pleasure in personating a Citizen or Tradesman, than ever they cou'd enjoy in their Palaces. For a Mask has this admirable Quality, that it can in a Moment transform a Prince into a Porter; and one of the greatest Advantages of such a surprizing Metamorphosis is, that every Man may resume his own Figure when he pleases. If we may believe the Venetians, a certain Great Prince, who is known over all the World, scrupl'd not to act a part in these agree∣able Frolicks.

The whole Carnaval, and the Festival after Ascensi∣on-Day is spent in Masquerading, and all that while there seems to be a New Republic form'd in the midst of the other. There is an universal Change in the Ha∣bits, Customs, and Laws. All Marks of Distinction and Superiority are forgotten, or at least neglected; All Persons are, or seem to be equal: Respect, Con∣straint, Ceremony, Care, and Business, are ba∣nish'd from Society, and are succeeded by Joy, Liberty, and an agreeable Sort of Folly. Under this Disguise many pleasant Intrigues are carry'd on; and Strangers are oblig'd to that Concealer of Blushes for many a happy Moment. I know one that was accosted by a Lady, who carry'd him to a little House; where, having open'd the Door with a Key that she had in her Pocket, she put him in Possession of a thousand charming Beauties; yet all his Arguments and In∣treaties

cou'd not procure him a sight of her Face; for her Mask was ty'd on with a Silver Chain fasten'd with a little Padlock. But the strangest Mascara that ever I had occasion to see, or per∣haps that ever appear'd in Venice, was a Woman who came to the Fair, cover'd from Head to Foot with a sort of long Gown or Shroud. She had no Clothes under it, not so much as a Smock, and from time to time she open'd her Gown, and oblig'd the Company with a full View of her Wares. Thus she walk'd three or four times about the Fair, and was doubtless very narrowly and attententively view'd by the Spectators. This Frol∣lick was thought to be occasion'd by a Wager.

During the Fair, the whole Place of S. Mark, and part of the Broglio, is cover'd with Shops: The other part is full of Juglers, Tumblers, Puppet-Players, Bears, and Mountebanks, who are dancing frequented by all sorts of People, from the Noble∣man to the Gondelier. But the greatest Croud is about certain Female-Astrologers, who are mounted on little Stages or Scaffolds, cover'd with Lace and Ribbons like Puppets; their Faces painted white and red, and surrounded with a great Number of Books, full of Figures and Characters, tho' they under∣stand no more of 'em than to distinguish the White from the Black. There are also some Men who follow the same Trade; but they are not so much follow'd as the Women, whose triple Top-knots draw the Multitude after 'em. They sit upon a Chair, from whence, as••from a Tripos, they blow good Fortune to their Customers thro' a Tin Trunk eight or ten Foot long, the Que∣rist putting the other End to his Ear. The Price of a Consultation is no more than Five-pence; and for so small a Summ you may have the Promise of as much Honour and Riches as you please. These Wenches, who sometimes are not

ugly, observe an admirable Gravity in pronoun∣cing their Responses; but they are not so starch'd in private, and may be easily prevail'd with to lay aside their affected Severity. One of my Friends, who is a Germain Officer, happen'd t'o∣ther Day to try the Experiment; and since the Story is not unpleasant, I shall make bold to en∣tertain you with it. As we were taking our Diversion in the Fair, we took particular Notice of one of those She-Astrologers, who was one of the prettyest and gravest of the whole Tribe. She was surrounded with a Croud of People of all Ages and Ranks, who approach'd one after ano∣ther to the End of her Trunk to learn their Fate, and to hear the Oraculous Sentences which she pronounc'd with an incredible Majesty and Authori∣ty. My Friend took his Turn among the rest, and after she had acquainted him with his For∣tune, told her that he was desirous to consult her about some private Affair, and therefore in∣treated her to turn the other End of the Trunk, that he might communicate his Secret to her without disclosing it to the Company. But instead of proposing some Questions to her about his For∣tune, he told her thro' her Trunk, that he came not to desire the Assistance of her pretended Art, which serv'd only to amuse the Vulgar; that 'twas in her Power to grant him a more solid Favour; and that his Business was to enquire where and when he might spend a Night with her. Assoon as she had heard his Proposal, she turn'd the Trunk and reply'd, that he ought not to be sur∣priz'd at her way of Living, by imposing upon the Credulity of the People, since the only Oc∣cupation of the greatest part of Mankind consi∣sted in cheating one another, every one in his own Way, and according to the Nature of his Employment; and that for her part she thought

five or six Crowns a day but a moderate Recom∣pence for the Pains she took in deceiving those that were willing to be deceiv'd; adding however that she was glad she had found a Man of Sense, that knew the Infirmities of Humane Nature, and wou'd laugh with her at the Follies of Mankind, and concluded with giving him an Assignation at an Inn, where she promis'd to meet him that Evening. Her agreeable Humour furnish'd us with Matter of Discourse for above an Hour; but this was the End of the Adventure, for the Officer did not think fit to drive the Jest further.

Tho' the Summer is scarce begun, the Heat is already so violent, that every one endeavours to make it less insupportable by the Thinness and Light∣ness of his Clothes. Now I speak of Habits, I wish you cou'd see that which is us'd by the Girls that visit the Fair every Day to look out for a Customer. For every Mother that is willing to be rid of her Daughter, carries her thither every Day as to a Market, with all the alluring Ornaments of an advantageous Dress. They have large and very fine Top-knots; their Neck and Breasts are bare; and their Habit consists chiefly of a little Cloak or Mantle of white Muslin, a∣dorn'd with red Ribbons, a single Petticoat of the same Cloth, a neat Pair of Shooes and Silk-Stockins, exactly fitted to their Legs. There is nothing more proper to inspire Love than the sight of those young Creatures, who for the most part are charming Beauties; nor is a Man forc'd to purchase his Happiness at the Rate of a tedious Courtship; for assoon as he feels Nature begin to work, he may immediately address himself to the Mother, who is always ready to make the Bar∣gain. But tho' it will not cost you a Sigh to gain your Mistress's Heart, you must pay dear for the Enjoymnent of her Person: for you cannot

purchase a handsome Maiden-Girl under 150 Crowns in hand, and as much every Year for Entertainment. For 200 you may have the Choice of the Market, where you may find some that look like little Angels. Nor are you oblig'd to buy a Pig in a Poke; for you may view and handle her as much as you will, and examine your Commodity both with your Eyes and Hands before you agree upon the Price. As for the Maiden-head, if the Mother promise to warrant it, you may depend upon her word: for these Matrons are too conscientious to impose second-hand Goods upon a Customer; and besides they dare not venture upon a Cheat which they be∣lieve may be so easily discover'd. For 'tis as im∣possible to root this Opinion out of the Minds of the Italians, as of the Oriental Nations; and whether it be true or false, 'tis attended with this advantageous Consequence, that it makes the young Women very careful of preserving their Treasure, since they believe it impossible to conceal the Loss of it; at least it has this Effect on those who in∣tend to marry. But they who pretend only to be kept are not so nice, for tho' they take care to pre∣serve their Maiden-head, they never scruple to al∣low a Man all the Liberties that can be us'd without deflowring 'em. I know a Woman that has three Daughters; the two Eldest are public

Courtezans, but the Third, who is ve∣ry pretty, is still* 1.8 una Putta, una Vergine, tho' she has lain perhaps with a Hundred Men. Yet she is really a Maid, and wou'd not sell her Maiden-head a Farthing under Two hundred Crowns. I cannot leave this Subject without ta∣king Notice of the extravagant Opinion of the Italians, concerning one of the Properties of a Beautiful Woman. Instead of little, hard, and well-separated Breasts, they love to have 'em

large and fleshy; so that when they put their Hand into the Bosom of a Maid whom they in∣tend to purchase, if she be not so well provided as they commonly desire, she is forc'd to make some pretty Excuse, or to tell 'em laughing, That she has lent her Bubbies to her little Sister, or has plaid 'em away at Bassette. And even when a French∣man meets with such Girls, and tells 'em that he is no Admirer of fleshy Breasts, they usually an∣swer, Ay, Sir, you are pleas'd to say so; but if they were larger you wou'd like 'em better.

You will be apt to look upon this Way of buying Girls as very odd and extravagant; but I'm confident you will be no less surpriz'd at the Relation of an Adventure that happen'd to one of my Friends, who is a French Officer late∣ly return'd from the Venetian Army. I remember I promis'd you the Story, and I'm resolv'd to keep my Word, tho' I must run the Hazard of giving you an ill Opinion of my Friend's Cha∣stity.

During our Confinement in the Lazaretto, we had no other Recreation, but what we found in conversing with the Prior, who is a very accom∣plish'd Person: You may easily divine the usual Subject of our Discourse. We hardly talk'd of any thing but the Venetian Ladies, of whose Beauty and Gracefulness he gave us so lively a Description, that his feeling Expressions made a very strong Im∣pression on the Officer's Mind. Then he proceeded to tell us, that we might easily satisfie our Incli∣nations to Love in this great City, without exposing our selves to the Censures of a Critical and Ill-natur'd World. In short, my Friend was so charm'd with his agreeable Conversation, and so well pleas'd with the Hope he gave him, that he cou'd not for∣bear protesting and repeating his Protestations more than once, that he wou'd not leave the City

without tasting the Dear Delight. His Guardian, who never left him, and had often heard us talk on that Subject, concluded that he had met with a Man fit for his Purpose, that is, one who wou'd spare no Cost to indulge his Inclination to Plea∣sure. Resolving then to make the best Advan∣tage of so promising an Opportunity, he took oc∣casion to talk with him in private two days be∣fore our Departure, and told him with a great deal of Confidence, that perceiving him to be a great Admirer of handsome Women; and know∣ing that he wou'd probably meet with some in that great City whither he was going, he thought himself oblig'd to admonish him of the dangerous con∣sequences that frequently attended the Rashness of an unexperienc'd Adventurer upon an unknown Coast; since those who seem to be very sound and beautiful, are oftentimes mere lewd and rot∣ten Strumpets. But, added he, if you will trust my Honesty, and lodge at my House, which is both very neat and civil, I have an only Daugh∣ter, who has as much Beauty as any Lady in Venice; her I'll bestow upon you, and warrant her as sound and clean as a Pearl, as I hope in the most holy Madona. Then the Officer ask'd him whether she was a Maid, and he ve∣ry ingenuously acknowledg'd that she was not, and that she was kept by a Venetian No∣bleman, who allow'd her a* 1.9 hun∣dred Sequins a Year: but, continu'd he, tho' she has hitherto observ'd an inviolable Fi∣delity to her Keeper, I have so strong an Inclina∣tion to make you my Friend, that I'm resolv'd to give her to you, and I'm confident you'll be sa∣tisfy'd with her Person when you see her. My Friend considering that at Venice a Man that loves to keep himself clean and neat, must not take a Lodging at a Public House of Entertainment, and

not knowing where to find a convenient Lodging, accepted his Guardian's Offer, and went to his House, where he took a very neat Room, and agreed both for Diet and Lodging at a very rea∣sonable Rate. The next Morning his Landlord carry'd him to his Daughter, who had a very mag∣nificent Apartment, consisting of three fine Cham∣bers on a Floor, adorn'd with large Looking-Glas∣ses, Cupboard and Scrutores of China, with two Maids in a very handsome Garb to attend her. My Friend was doubtless extremely well satisfy'd with every thing he saw, and especially with the lovely Donna, who was one of the most charming Beau∣ties in the World: But his Satisfaction lasted not long, for when he came to talk of the Price, she ask'd four times as much as he was able or wil∣ling to give her; so that after two hours Wrang∣ling, he was forc'd to leave her without conclu∣ding the Bargain. Yet he continues still to lodge at her Father's House, who professes as much Friendship to him as ever. He told me that he observ'd one Piece of Furniture in the Young Lady's Chamber that was very suitable to one of her Profession. 'Twas a very large Couch cover'd with a Quilt of black Sattin, and directly over it there hung at the Cieling one of those Fans which I had occasion to mention in one of my former Letters. She confess'd that this was her Lover's Contrivance, to qualifie the extreme Heat of the Weather, which is never more insupport∣able than when one is already sufficiently heat∣ed with the eager Recreations of Love. And she assur'd him that the all Nobles have such Fans in their Houses.

Of all the Customs that are peculiar to the Italians, I know none that seems odder and more incommodious than that of lying stark-naked in their Beds, which is generally observ'd by Men,

Women, Boys, and Girls; and notwithstanding the Indecency of such a Custom, the most bashful Virgin never scruples to strip her self to a state of pure Nature on her Wedding Night, and to be∣come an Eve to her new Adam. 'Tis true, most Persons of Quality lie as we do, tho' there are several even of that Rank, who follow the com∣mon Fashion.

The Curtezans enjoy here no less Liberty than at Rome, and are divided into two distinct Or∣ders. The first consists of such as are kept by par∣ticular Persons, such as the Guardian's Daughter; and these are so far from being imputed infamous or contemptible, that they are envy'd by their Companions, and are esteem'd (as they say them∣selves) if not Donne Honorate, at least Donne de proposito. And besides, they have this Advantage, that they can easily find a Husband after they have gain'd Seven or Eight hundred Ducats; for most Tradesmen are extremely fond of such con∣siderable Fortunes. The other sort of Curtezans are such as prostitute themselves to all Comers, and expose their Bodies indifferently to all sorts of Persons. And even these, tho' they must for ever despair of retrieving their Honour by Matrimo∣ny, disown the Name of Putane, and call them∣selves Donne d'amore.

But notwithstanding the extraordinary Kindness and Beauty of the Women, the Venetians are ge∣nerally so brutish, that they wou'd rather chuse a Boy, tho' as ugly as an Ape, than the most A∣miable Girl in the World. This is the predomi∣nant Vice of the Nation, with which they are so miserably intoxicated, that they spare no Pains or Cost to satisfie their beastly Passions: And even some of 'em are such Prodigies of Infamy, and have so entirely lost all sense of Humanity, that they turn S••ccubus's to Porters and Gondoliers, whom

they hire to act that Filthiness upon their polluted Bodies. All their Conversations are larded with those detestable Impurities; and as in France 'tis the usual Custom of young Persons to divert them∣selves with talking of their Intrigues with a love∣ly Mistress, their Discourses in this Place run per∣petually on their Masculine Amours. Nor are the Turks, themselves more addicted to this unnatural Abomination than the Italians seem to be. The Monks, especially, are infamous for Sodomy as well as Whoredom; and perhaps not without reason, for tho' I am not so particularly acquainted with their manner of Living, as to give you an exact Account of their Customs and Practice, I can assure you (and one sight of their Convents wou'd convince you) that they assume a great deal more Liberty than their Brethren in France. About some Weeks ago I visited the Convent of S. Joan∣ni Paolo, to see the fine Pictures with which 'tis adorn'd, especially that of S. Peter Martyr, by Ti∣tian, which is esteem'd one of the most finish'd Pieces in the World; and that of the Last Supper, at the bottom of the Refectory. After I had sa∣tisfy'd my Curiosity with a View of these ad∣mirable Pictures, they show'd me the Apartment of one of the Fathers, which certainly merits the particular Observation of every curious Traveller; for I must confess I shou'd have rather fansy'd it to be the Residence of a Cardinal than the Ha∣bitation of a solitary Friar. It consists of three small Pavilions, rank'd in a streight Line, each of which contains two Chambers and a Hall. They are separated by two Gardens, planted with O∣range-Trees, and divided into several Borders or Beds of Flowers, adorn'd with Busts and Statues. 'Tis true, there is no Water; but that defect is supply'd by a very fine Perspective, representing a Fountain at the end of a long Walk, border'd

with Trees. And this artificial Fountain is dis∣cover'd from the first Pavilion thro' the second, which is pierc'd and left open for that Purpose. The Beauty of the Chambers is sutable to that of the Garden; and to conclude, there are few Places in the World less fit to inspire a Man with Thoughts of Mortification and Repen∣tance.

I must not finish my Letter without giving you some Account of the Opera's and Comedies, which may be reckon'd one of the principal Diversions of the Carnaval. All the Beauty of the Opera's consists in Vocal Music and Machines; for there is nothing in the Habits, Dancing, and even in the Plays themselves, that merits a particular Descripti∣on. And, generally speaking, they are much In∣ferior to those that are represented at Paris; for tho' the French must acknowledge themselves indebted to the Venetians for their Opera's, 'tis certain that in this, as well as in several other Cases, they have surpass'd their Masters. The Venetian Music does not please all sorts of Ears; some dislike the Af∣fectation of their excessive Quavering, which made one say, That they seem'd to contend with Nigh∣tingales, who shou'd be most admir'd for the Volu∣bility of their Throats. But I must confess I'm of another Opinion, and I'm so charm'd by the melodious Accents of a fine Italian Voice, that I can hardly forbear crying out with the Venetians, I'm lost, I faint, I die. 'Tis true, those agreeable Transports I usually feel on such Occasions, are purely occasion'd by the Music, and by the Beau∣ty of the Voice, without any regard to the Words, which are so far from contributing to the Delight of the Hearer, that he ought not to give the least attention to 'em; since the Italian way of singing is extremely unsuitable to tragical Subjects: For what Impression wou'd it make upon your Mind

to hear an Orlando Furioso, or a despairing Atis, warble out the terrible Passions with which they are agitated, in a perpetual Quavering for a Quar∣ter of an Hour together? Wou'd you not imagine that those Actors design'd to ridicule the passionate Lovers whom they pretend to represent? This puts me in mind of the Air with which Harlequin us'd to sing on the Theatre of Burgundy, Ha! tu vas trahir malheureuse, &c. This, Sir, is the main Ad∣vantage that recommends the French Way of Sing∣ing beyond the Italian; for the Music is made pur∣posely for the Words, and so admirably well fitted to 'em in every respect, that the Singing is more ex∣pressive, and infinitely more touching than the Words, especially when there is Occasion to repre∣sent a Person transported with Sorrow, Despair, or Fury. But abstracting from this Conside∣ration, I'm still of the Opinion, that the Itali∣an Music, singly consider'd, is finer than ours, and that its Charms are extremely improv'd by a sweet and tuneful Voice, which is no Rarity in this Place.

There are also many different Opinions concern∣ing the Venetian Comedies; for I have heard several Men of Sense not only despise 'em as Trifles, but absolutely condemn 'em, as only fit to amuse the Eyes and Ears of Footmen and Porters. Others, on the contrary, are so much in love with this Diversion, that they wou'd rather chuse to deprive themselves of Meat and Drink, than to lose their Share in so agreeable a Pleasure. For my part, I think these Opinions are equally guilty of an Excess, and I see no reason that shou'd oblige us to run to ei∣ther of these opposite Extremities. If every thing that is not properly instructive, and does not di∣rectly tend to the Advancement of Vertue must be

absolutely rejected; I confess indeed, that the Ita∣lian Comedies ought to be banish'd out of the Re∣publick; but by the same Principle Masks, Balls, Turnaments, and all sorts of Games must be con∣demn'd, and the most innocent Pleasures must be reputed criminal. But since my Conscience is not so nice, I must own my self so much a Friend to the Ve∣netian Comedies, that I can easily bear with all their Defects. 'Tis true, they can neither make us wiser nor better; but that Fault, if it be one, is sufficiently atton'd for by the Pleasure they give us. And I have often observ'd, that those morose Criticks who talk of nothing but Edification, are the first who burst forth into Laughter, and express their Satisfaction by clapping their Hands. Yet there are certain Indecencies which I cou'd wish the Italian Poets wou'd avoid; and it were to be desir'd, that they had more Regard to the Respect that is due to the Modesty of Ladies, and to the Rules of Civility that ought to be observ'd between Man and Man. But after all, I have a much bet∣ter Opinion of the French than of the Italian Thea∣tre: For I had rather learn to know my self in the Characters of Moliere, than to be an useless Spe∣ctator of the Postures of Harlequin, or of the Dreams of Dr. Balouarde; tho' if I had a conveni∣ent Opportunity, and knew not how to employ my Time better, I shou'd never scruple to laugh an Hour or two at their diverting Fooleries.

I had almost forgotten to acquaint you with a pleasant Custom which is usually observ'd in this Place at the hearing of Opera's. The Female Mu∣sicians are always applauded at the End of their Songs; but the Hearers make use of different ways to express their Satisfaction. If they only say Cara, Cara, 'tis a sign they are but indifferently

pleas'd; but when they are touch'd to the quick, they fill the whole Theatre with repeated Accla∣mations, crying as loud as they can, Mi Moro, Mi Buto; and not unfrequently make use of such immodest and obscene Expressions, that I dare not so much as repeat 'em.

In Obedience to your Desire, I have made it my Bus'ness to enquire into the Birth and Origi∣nal of the late Pope Alexander VIII. You are mis∣inform'd by those who assure you that he was de∣scended from a Noble Family: For John Ottoboni, his Great-Grand-Father, was a Merchant, and was not much taken Notice of at first, tho' he afterwards gain'd a considerable Estate, which recommended both him and his Children to the Consideration of the Publick. His Eldest Son, John Francis, was advanc'd to the Dignity of Great Chancellor, the highest Office to which a Citizen can pretend; for those who are rais'd to that Post are honour'd with the Title of Excellency, and wear a Red Gown. His Son Leonard, who had already serv'd the Re∣public as Secretary to the Spanish Embassy, and af∣terwards as Agent in that Country, was advanc'd to the same Office in the Year 1639. and conti∣nu'd in that Post till his Death. He left two Sons, Francis, and Peter who was afterwards made Pope: Francis marry'd, and left a Son call'd Anthony, who is still alive; but Peter, who had not yet ta∣ken a Wife, endeavour'd to procure a certain Of∣fice, which, notwithstanding all his earnest Solici∣tations, was bestow'd on another Citizen, whose Family had never been intrusted with the Manage∣ment of any Public Affairs: And he was so nettl'd at such an unexpected Disappointment, that for mere Vexation he resolv'd to embrace an Ecclesi∣astical Life. Two or Three Years after, the Bi∣shop

of Padua gave him a Place in his Chapter, where he continu'd for some time; but being na∣turally of an impatient and ambitious Temper, he soon grew weary of that Post: And I'm inform'd that he us'd frequently to tell his Friends that something whisper'd perpetually in his Ears, and bid him go to Rome. These Suggestions flatter'd his Ambition, and made him so uneasie at Padua, that he left his Place, and went to that Great Ec∣clesiastical Court, where by his Intrigues, Com∣plaisance, and Dissimulation, of which he was an Absolute Master, he acquir'd several powerful Pa∣trons, and insinuated himself so dexterously into the Favour of the rest, that in 1652, he obtain'd a Cardinal's Cap of Pope Innocent X. and was af∣terwards made Bishop of Brescia in the State of Venice. But his Ambition was not satisfy'd by so considerable a Preferment; for he still continu'd to manage his Game with so much Dexterity and Success, that at last he was advanc'd to the Papal Throne by the French Faction, and by the Interest and Solicitation of Cardinal de Bouillon, who to re∣gain his Master's Favour, left no Means unessay'd to raise this Prelate to the Apostolic See. 'Twas on the 6th of October, 1689, that the Supreme Dig∣nity was conferr'd upon him; and his Advance∣ment occasion'd a general Satisfaction. Rome thought she had now a Bishop, who wou'd aim at nothing so much as the Exaltation of the Church and the Holy See: France concluded that she had at last obtain'd a Pope who was absolute∣ly devoted to her Interest: The Empire and Spain hop'd that he wou'd promote the Public Good of Christendom: And Venice was over-joy'd to see one of her Citizens in a Condition to raise the Glo∣ry of his Country. In the last of these Places, especially, all possible Care was taken to express

the publick Satisfaction with all the Marks of Splendor and Magnificence: Anthony the Pope's Nephew was honour'd with the Title of a No∣bleman, and at the same time was made Knight of the Golden Star, and Procurator of S. Mark by Merit. He sent his two Sons Peter and Mark to Rome, where the latter was immediately preferr'd to an advantageous Match; and the former was made Cardinal Patron. Dignities and Riches were heap'd without measure upon all the rest of the Pope's Relations, who seem'd, like so many Mush∣rooms, to spring up in a Night. Their sudden Advancement gave Pasquin occasion to say, That his Holiness had signaliz'd his Accession to the Pontifi∣cal Throne by a Miracle: And Marforio demanding what it was, he reply'd, That the Pope had restor'd to Life one that was Dead; meaning the Nepotism, which seem'd to have been utterly extinguish'd by Innocent XI. And indeed never Pope made so good Use of his Time as this Alexander: But since I have already given you an Account of his Character and Actions, I shall only add, that he went out of this World loaded with Curses, that his Memory is odious to all Mankind, and that never any Man's Death was less lamented than his. Rome detests him by reason of his Luxu∣ry, and because he establish'd the Nepotism: The Empire and Spain hate him as one that was their declar'd Enemy: France is incens'd against him because of the terrible Blow he gave her towards the end of his Pontificate: And Venice abhors the Memory of a Citizen, who instead of proving a Benefactor to his Country, seem'd on all Occa∣sions to be its mortal Enemy. At Rome they be∣gan to express their Hatred before he expir'd; for in the Night in which he dy'd there was a Paper affix'd to the Gate of the Vatican, in

which he was represented in the Posture of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 that is going to take Horse, with these Words written underneath, If any Man wou'd send a Let∣ter to the Devil, here is a Post just ready to depart.

After his Death, Prince Anthony his Nephew, endeavouring by his Intrigues to exclude Cardi∣nal Barberino, and to promote the Faction of the Pignatelli, the Venetians depriv'd him of the Procu∣ratorship, and at the same time remov'd him from the Management of Publick Affairs, and even prohibited him to appear in the Council; so that at present instead of a Procurator's Vest, he wears only a Citizen's short Cloak. Yet he was not de∣graded, but only suspended from the Exercise of his Offices.

I must not leave Venice without acquainting you with the ridiculous Opinion the Italians have of the French Customs: They imagine that a Man may Kiss and Handle a Young Woman as roughly and indecently as he pleases before her Father and Mother, and that one may take the same Liberty with a Wife in the Presence of her Husband; and from thence they infer, that they are guilty of more Criminal Familiarities in private. You see what an injurious Opinion they have of our Nation, and especially of the Chastity of our Ladies; and yet this extravagant Conceit is on∣ly grounded on the Civility of our Countrymen, who permit a Friend or Relation to Salute a Wo∣man with a Kiss after a long Absence; and are not so horn-mad as to enter an Action against a Man for every Kiss he steals from a Woman.

Thus we see how fatally Men are deluded by that unconquerable Inclination they have to mag∣nifie

every thing. As soon as they hear of any thing that is unusual, they instantly fansie it to be a Prodigy, and conclude that 'tis either against the ordinary Course of Nature, or contrary to common Sense. I have had occasion to discourse with several Persons that are no Italians, who as∣sure me that in England a Man may freely Kiss the first handsome Woman he meets in the Street, and even that all Women, not excepting the chief Ladies of the Court, are oblig'd to allow such Liberties. But tho' I never was in that Country, I'm so far from believing the Story, that I'm confident, and dare venture to affirm, that 'tis absolutely false.

I shall conclude my Letter with telling you that I have seen Padua, which is a very large Town, but so dispeopl'd, that one half of the Houses are not inhabited; and that I have bought a Horse to carry me to Holland; for I cou'd not endure to be so long shut up in a Coach. I have already sent my Horse to Mestre, a little Harbour about five Miles from this City, in the Road to Aus∣burg, and am putting all things in a readiness for my Departure. And therefore to finish the De∣scription of Venice, which some call the Rich, others the Fair, and I the Licentious, I shall only tell you, that I'm extremely pleas'd with three things in it, which I despair of finding in any other Place: First, the Festival Solemnities, which are always ac∣company'd with Shows: Secondly, the obliging Sweetness and Beauty of the Women: And in the last Place, the Neatness of the Houses within. I have often heard Holland commended for the extraordinary Neatness of its Houses, but I'm persuaded that even in this respect it does not exceed Venice: For the very Floors are cover'd with a

certain red Cen••••t, as ••ard as a 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and as smooth and clear as a Looking-Glass: And all the Furniture of the House is kept in the best Order, and with the same Care and Exactness. Every Cobler in the City takes care to furnish his Apartment with Hangings of gilt Leather, a large Looking-Glass, and some pretty Pictures; and the Magnificence of the Houses is always sutable to the Riches of the Inhabitants.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Venice, May 1692.

The END.

Notes

• * 1.1

  John 20. 17.
• † 1.2

  This is a di∣rect Contradi∣ction to the last Chapter of S. Matthew's Go∣spel, where 'tis said of the two Maries, that as they were going from the Sepulchre, Jesus met 'em, and that they came and held him by the Feet, and worshipped him.
• * 1.3

  One Shilling.
• * 1.4

  Somewhat more than 20 Quarters.
• * 1.5

  I'm a French-man.
• † 1.6

  We are Brothers.
• * 1.7

  Advance.
• * 1.8

  A Maid.
• * 1.9

  200 Crowns.