The manner of making of coffee, tea, and chocolate as it is used in most parts of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, with their vertues / newly done out of French and Spanish.

OF THE USE OF COFFEE.

ALthough the use and the eat∣ing of Beans, were hereto∣fore forbidden by Pythagoras, because that their Flowers being spotted with a black Colour, did re∣present a melancholly shape, and the Souls of the dead that did dwell therein: And though there be others that reject them, affirming that the use of them dulls the senses, and cau∣ses troublesome Dreams: Yet be∣cause they serve us in the Nature of Victuals and Physick, I shall not think my time and labour mis im∣ployed, if I communicate to the pub∣lick, something on this Subject of Beans.

Nevertheless I don't mean to speak of our European Beans; neither of the wilde, nor those they sow, whether they be Lupine, or Kidney Beans, or whatsoever sort; of all which we were ever wont to make use, either in the Kitchin or in the Drugsters Trade, since that the most famous Physicians and Chyrurgions have employed them in the Cure of Maladies internal as well as external; viz. In the Dropsie, the Stone, the Stoppage of the Urine, the bloudy Flux, Loosness, Bruises, and o∣ther Diseases. Neither will I mention the Bean of Egypt; which Dioscorides speaks of, which the Crocodiles avoid as being destructive to their Eyes, wit∣ness Pliny. Neither of the Kidney Beans of Paludan Garet, like the Cacao Nut (whereof they make Chocolate) named otherwise Coles by Clusius: Nor will I treat of the purging Beans of Carthage; or those of Ferdinand de Lopez of Ca∣stagneda; which come from the Isle of St. Thomas. I will speak for the pre∣sent of a certain Bean of Arabia called Bon, whereof they make a Drink term∣ed Coffee, which was heretofore in use amongst Arabians, and Egyptians;

and which is now a dayes in very great request amongst the English, French, and Germanes.

The first that makes mention of the Property of this Bean, under the name of Bunchum in the 9th. Century after the Birth of our Saviour, was Zachary Maho∣met Rases, commonly called Rhasio, a ve∣ry famous Arabian Physician, who has composed a great many excellent Books, to wit, Ten dedicated to King Alman∣sor, and Fifteen other learned Works. He was the first, that did explain what was the meaning of Bunchum, assuring us that it is hot and dry, very good for the Stomach, it hinders the un∣pleasant smell of Sweat, and of depila∣tory Oyntments.

After Rases divers other Physicians, and particularly Avicenne, explains Bon under the name of Bunchum.

As to the choice thereof, he says that of a Lemmon colour, light, and of a good smell is the best; that the white and the heavy is naught, that it is hot and dry in the first degree, and according to others cold in the first degree. As to its operations and ef∣fects, it fortifies the members, it cleans

the skin, and dries up the humidities that are under it, and it gives an ex∣cellent smell to all the Body.

Prosper Alpinus in his Book of the Medicines and Plants of Egypt, throughly describes the Bean Bon, and the Drink they make thereof. For he sayes the Grain Bon is in great use a∣mong the Egyptians, of which they prepare a decoction, whereof they drink in their Country just the same as we do the wine in our Taverns: And tho they drink it all day long, yet their manner is alwayes to take a large quantity thereof in the morning fa∣sting, as hot as they can well indure it, it being the general opinion amongst them, that it warms and corroborates the Stomach, and that it is a power∣ful remedy to cure all the obstructi∣ons of the Bowels.

It is an excellent Remedy against the stoppage of Womens Courses, and they make often use thereof, when they don't flow so fast as they desire, they sip a great deal of it, as hot as they can drink it; alwayes taking care to drink it by little and little: for it is the Custome of every one

to drink it after that manner. He proceeds further in it, saying, that the drink called Coffee is much esteem'd of in those Countries, the which they prepare with certain black Grains, which come very near to Beans. This decoction they make two ways: the one with the skin or the outside of the aforesaid Grain, and the other with the very substance of the Bean. That which is made of the skin is of more force, then the other that's made with the Bean it self: I have seen the Tree whereon it grows in the Orchard of a Turkish Commander, who had caused it to be transplanted out of Arabia, it very much resembles the Plant, called Priests Bonnet. The quality of this Drink is cold and dry, or rather tem∣perate in respect of cold, by reason of some heat, which is found mingled therewith: For this grain is composed of two different substances; to wit, the one gross and terren, whereby it strengthens and corroborates, and the o∣ther is thought to be made up of warm parts, by which it heats, cleanses, and opens. This decoction has a taste not much different from that of Succory,

tho it has a greater power to remove all obstructions. Having then took notice; that the Women in the begin∣ning of their courses, to help evacua∣tions, drink of it by little and little, a great quantity very hot, and in that time make great use of this Drink. Assisted and with this experience I begun to employ it for all women whatsoever, who by some cause or o∣ther have their purgations ceas'd or diminished, the which I have seen ex∣perimented by very many with good success; and thence I have learned, that this sort of Medicine was excel∣lent for the stopping of Womens cour∣ses, which proceeds from the obstru∣ctions of the veins in the Matrice, ha∣ving before hand provided for the pur∣ging of the body. This Drink took in the morning fasting, mightily pro∣vokes the Courses, and it is a quick and certain remedy for those Women, who not having their courses are trou∣bled with violent pains.

They prepare this decoction taking a pound and a half of the Kernels of this Grain, peeling off the skin they roast it before the fire, and having

roasted or parched it, they boyl it in twenty pintes of water. Others take the Grain roasted or parched, and beat to powder, and let it lie steept in water a whole day: and without any other infusion they boyl it half a way, and having strain'd it, they keep it in earthen pots stopt close, to make use thereof when they shall want it.

They prepare this drink after the same fashion, with the Bark of the a∣foresaid Grain: which nevertheless they take in a less quantity, viz. some only six ounces, others nine, with twenty pintes of Fountain water, which they boyl half away. This Drink the Arabians call Caova: the Ber∣ries (as I said before) grow on a Tree much like our Priests Bonnet, tho the leaves are thicker, harder, and greener, and besides they are green all the year round.

They use this decoction to fortifie the stomach, when it is too cold, and to help digestion, as also to remove the obstructions of the entrails: they make use of it several days with good success, in the cold swellings of the Li∣ver and the Spleen. Avieenne menti∣ons

these Grains, and attributes the same use to them; esteeming them to be hot in the third degree, and dry in the second; which does not seem likely; since it has a sweet with a kind of bitterness, without any sharp∣ness or acrimony.

We must now particularize the pre∣paration of this Drink made with Cof∣fee; tis true, I have spoken something hereof before, but in general now I will proceed to the particulars.

The Grain Bon whose figure (with the Tree whereon it grows) you see here before you, being first well skinn'd and pill'd, is put into an I∣ron Instrument firmly shut together with the coverlid, through this In∣strument they thrust a Spit, by the means whereof they turn it before the Fire, till it shall be well rosted; after which having beaten it into very fine Powder, you may make use thereof, in an equal proportion accor∣ding to the number of the people that will drink it: Viz. the third part of a spoonful for each person, and put it into a glass of boyling Water, put∣ting a little Sugar thereto: And af∣ter

[illustration]

The Coffee Tree.

[illustration]

The Instrument.

having let it boyl a small time, you must pour it into little dishes of porcelain or any other sort, and so let it be drunk by little and little, as hot as it can possibly be indur'd, but especially fasting.

I have here explained in general the Virtues of that wholesome drink called Coffee; tho it will not be al∣together unnecessary, to relate what an eminent Arabian Physician speaks thereof, who more particularly declares these things that follow.

The fruit Bon (says he) is gathe∣red in the Month Ab, which being took out of its shell is divided into two parts, its Flowers are whitish, this Bean is hot in the first degree, and dry in the second, that is to say its Skin, as to the kirnel, it is al∣together temperate, nevertheless it dries, but moderately and plesantly: Its drink is good against Catharrs and Rheums, which trouble the Breast: In the stoppage of Womens courses, and Urine, against the boyling of the blood, and the decaying of the strength 'tis very necessary. This drink has got the same esteem in Den∣mark

and Sweden: In which Coun∣tries the great Lords make use of it frequently. And especially at Paris there are a great many Shops that sell Coffee publickly with this follow∣ing commendation.

The most excellent Virtues of the Berry called Coffee.

COffee is a Berry which only grows in the desert of Arabia, from whence it is transported into all the Dominions of the Grand Seig∣niour, which being drunk dries up all the cold and moist humours, disperses the wind fortifies the Liver, eases the dropsie by its purifying quality, 'tis a Sovereign medicine against the itch, and corruptions of the blood, re∣freshes the heart, and the vital beat∣ing thereof, it relieves those that have pains in their Stomach, and cannot eat: It is good also against the indispositions of the brain, cold, moist, and heavy, the steam which rises out of it is good against the Rheums of the eyes, and drumming in the ears: 'Tis excellent also a∣gainst

the shortness of the breath, against Rheums which trouble the Liver, and the pains of the Spleen: It is an extra∣ordinary ease against the Worms: After having eat or drunk too much: Nothing is better for those that eat much Fruit.

The daily use hereof in a little while will manifest the aforesaid ef∣fect to those, that being indisposed shall use it from time to time.

'Tis related that the Turks a∣mongst other drinks, make use of one which they greatly esteem, and which they call Chaube, the same with our Coffee as black as Ink, and which is excellent, especially in the illness of the Stomack: They are wont to drink thereof in the Mor∣ning, in publick places without any difficulty, they take it in earthen or Porcelain Porringers, their manner is seting themselves down on the ground in a Ring, every one drinks in his turn: They set the Porringer oftentimes to their mouth, but they drink but a very little at a time, by reason of its extream heat. The in∣gredients they use in the making of

this Liquor, are certain fruits which are call'd Buncho, by the Inhabitants of the Country; being like (as to the out side) in greatness, and Co∣lour to the Laurel Berries, having two skins very thin, they say they are brought from the Indies, 'tis a∣thing of small price amongst them. There is observed to be two yellow Grains within, which have each of them their little several partition▪ and resembles in Colour, Name, and quality, the Bancha of Avicenne or the Buncha of Rases. And for my part I shall think it to be the same thing till the Learned shall better inform me, this drink is very frequent a∣mongst them, for which cause there be very many of them that sell it in publick Shops, and a great many trade abroad with this Fruit in hou∣ses of entertainment. They count it as wholsome as we do our worm∣wood Wine or other Physical drinks

At Amsterdam this drink is sold with great commendation of the publick, for it preserves the radical moistness, strengthens the Stomach, cures sore eyes, pain in the Head,

Catharrs, Palsie, Gout, the Dropsie, 'tis good against the Scurvy, breaks the Stone, and eases women with Child. Monsieur Simon Pauli an e∣minent Physician does altogether con∣demn the use of Coffee, in a Treatise concerning the abuse of Tobacco and Tea, for as much as it effeminates both the body and understanding, which yet it does not by cooling it too much, but because it insensibly dries by reason of its natural Sul∣phure wherewith it abounds as well as Tobacco, and the Agnus Castus, or Park-leaves, but we ought to inter∣pret what this Learned man says of the abuse, and not of the right usage of Coffee, otherwise one may as well forbid the use of Rhubard, China, Sassafras, and other Drugs which grow out of Europe.

For my part I do no less blame the abuse of Coffee, than that of Wine: But I defend the lawful use thereof, since it is evident that many find this drink to be very profitable, taken in the Morning fasting, with a little Sugar, in a moderate quantity, and to very good purpose, and dai∣ly

experience shews that it is very pro∣per to cure the indispositions of the Stomach, stop Fluxes, and fortifies the whole body. If all those that make use of Coffee, did it through a prin∣cipal of daintiness and nicety, the a∣foresaid discourse would be sufficient to satisfie their curiosities, but the most part of those that use it are re∣duc't thereto by necessity, and take it rather as a Medicine and not as a dainty dish: I thought I should do them a pleasure to add hereto these following remarks on the same Sub∣ject, which I have gathered from the reading of some particular Voyages, by which one may see that all the Authors, who have treated of the properties of this sort of Bean, are agreed in the same opinion, that it is most excellent in the curing of seve∣ral indispositions, and most especial∣ly for those which trouble the head or Stomach.

Fietro Del Lavallè an Italian Gentle∣man Sirnamed the illustrious Travel∣ler, speaks in two several places of his Book concerning Coffee, but as that which he says of it in the first place

is not very considerable, I'le pass it over, and only insist upon his second remark of Coffee, wherein speaking of the Turkish Liquors, he utters his mind in these Terms. The Turks have a Drink of a black Colour, which during the Summer is very cooling, whereas in the Winter it mightily heats and warms the Bo∣dy, yet without changing the sub∣stance, and always continuing the same drink, that they swallow hot as it comes from the Fire, and they drink it at long draughts, not at dinner time, but as a kind of dainty, and as it were to please their palate, and to entertain themselves at their case in the Company of their friends, and one cannot find any meetings amongst them where they drink it not. For which end they keep a great fire on purpose, near which they keep always ready little Porringers of Porcelain filled with this mixture; and when that is hot enough, there be Servants ap∣point••d for this end, who do nothing els•• but carry these Porringers to each man in the Company, as hot

as they can, giving them also some Melon seed to chew, for the better passing away the time; and with this Seed and this Drink, which they call Cahue, they divert themselves in their Conversations, in publick Feasts or particular Recreations, sometimes the space of seven or eight hours. I drank of it last Summer, as a refresh∣ment, with Melon Seed, and satisfa∣ction enough; I remember I have read somewhere that the Antients did likewise use such sorts of Liqours, and if that be true, there is a great deal of likely-hood that it is was the same thing: Because that in ma∣ny other fashions, as well of this Country as abroad amongst Forreigners, I find every day some foot-steps and remainders of Anti∣quity. This Drink, as I remember, is made with the grain or Fruit of a certain Tree, which grows in A∣rabia towards Mecca, and the fruit it produces is called Cahue, whence this Drink derives its Name, 'tis of ••n oval shape, of the same bigness as a middle-sized Olive, and to make this composition they take sometimes

no more than the skin, which is tender, sometimes only the Kernel which is like to beans; and they are of an opinion, that of these two juices, the one heats the to'ther cools, but I cannot well call to mind whe∣ther the refreshing is that of the skin or the other.

The way to make the Drink there∣of, is thus: They burn the skin or Kernel of this fruit as it best plea∣ses their fancy or palate, and they beat it to a powder very fine, of a blackish Colour, which is not very pleasant to the eye-sight; this Powder will keep a long time, and is always to be found in the Drug∣sters Shops. When they would drink thereof they boyl it in Water in cer∣tain pots made on purpose, having a long and slender pipe to pour it readily into the little Porringers, and when the Water has boiled e∣nough, they put therein such a quan∣tity of this powder, according to the number of people that are to drink of it: they let this powder boyl with the Water sometime until it sha•• have lost its bitter taste, which it wou••••

always keep without a perfect boy∣ling. Afterwards they pour out this Liqour to be drunk as hot as the Moath and Throat can endure it, not suffering themselves to swallow it but by little and little, and at several times, because of its actual heat: and after it has taken the taste and colour of this powder, whereof the thick sinks down and remains at the bottom of the Pot, to make use of it more deliciously, they mingle with this powder of Cahue, much Sugar, Cin∣namon, and Cloves well beaten, which gives it an exquisite taste, and makes it much more nourishing. But yet without these dainties this drink it agreeable enough to the taste with the powder of Cahue alone; and if you will believe them it con∣tributes notably to the health, help∣ing digestion, fortifying the Stomach, stopping Rheums and Catharrs: These are very good qualities if they be effectual. They also say that after Supper it hinders drowsiness, and for that reason those that would study by Night do then drink thereof. There is sold here by retail so great

a quantity of it, that they say the•• impost upon Cahue, amounts to a considerable sum to the Grand Seig∣nours profit: When I return I will bring some of it with me, and I will impart the Knowledge of this simple to the Italians, which perhaps at present is altogether unknown to them. If they should drink it with Wine as they do with Water, I durst say it would be the Nepenthe that Homer mentions, which Helen drunk there, it being for certain that Cahue is brought hither from that Country: And as this Nepenthe was a charm against cares and vexa∣tions, the same Cahue to this day is used amongst the Turks as an en∣tertainment and past-time, making the hours to slip away merrily in conversation, intermingling with their drink several pleasant and recreative discourses, which unawares brings up∣on their mind this forgetfulness of sorrows which the Poet attributes to his Nepenthe.

Thevenot in a Relation which he has published of a Voyage into the Levant set a particular Chapter apart

which he imployes in describing the Victuals, Drink, and Lodging of the Turks, and after having men∣tioned their other Liqours, speaks thus;

The Turks have another drink very common amongst them which they call Cahue; whereof they make use every hour in the day. This drink is made of a grain whereof we will speak by and by. They roast it in a pan, or any other utensil upon the fire, afterward they peel it, and beat it into powder very fine, and when they would drink thereof, they take a brazen pot made purposely which they call Ibrik, and having fill'd it with water, thy boyl it, and when it boyls they put of this pow∣der therein, for about two cups of water one spoonfull, and when that is boyled they take it quickly from the fire, or remove it, other∣wise it would boyl over, for it rises quickly, when it has thus had ten or twelve boylings, they pour it into little dishes of Porcelain, set in rank on a Trencher of painted wood, they bring it you boyling hot, and it

must be so drunk, but at several times, otherwise it is not good.

This Liqour is black and bitter; and smells a little of the burnt too, every one drinks it by little and little, for fear of scalding their mouths, so that being in a Ca∣vehane (for so they name the pla∣ces where 'tis sold ready made) one may receive a kind of musick and divertisement by hearing the noise that every one makes in sipping. This drink is good to hinder the fumes which rise from the stomach into the head, and by consequence to cure the indisposition thereof, and for the same reason 'tis good against sleeping. When our French Merchants have a great many Letters to write, and intend to labour all night, they take in the evening a dish or two of this Cahue, it is good also to comfort the stomach and help disgestion; in a word if you will beleive the Turks 'tis good against all indispositions whatever, and as∣suredly it has at the least as much virtue in it, as is appropriated to Tea. For the taste, in drinking there∣of

once or twice, one may easily accustom ones self to it, and it will no longer seem unpleasant; there be some that mix therewith Cloves and a few grains of Cardamome, called in Latin Cardamomum minus, which they name Cacoule; others put thereto Sugar, but this mixture which makes it more pleasant renders it less wholesom and profitable: they drink a vast quantity thereof in the Turkish Country; there is neither rich nor poor that drinks less than two or three cups a day, and 'tis one of the things wherewith the husband is obliged to furnish his Wife. There be many publick Taverns of Cahue where they boyl it in great Kettles; in these places all sort of people may come, without distinction of Reli∣gion or quality, and 'tis no shame to frequent these places, since many go only to recreate themselves; there be also without the house, Walls with Mats on them, where those that will may sit and see all that pass by, and take the air, and there are some that play on the Violin, Flute and other Musick, who are hired by the

Master of the Cavehane to play and sing the best part of the day, to bring com∣pany together. When anyone that has any breeding sees another of his ac∣quaintance come into the Cavehane he will order the Master not to take their mony, and that by one only word, for when the Cahue is given them he Cries Giaba, that is, Gratis.

Monsieur de Bourges in the account he gives of the Voyage of the Bishop of Beryte to Cochinchina, reckoning up the incommodities they underwent, in the march of the Caravan through the Desert, sets down, as one of the most insupportable, the want of water, which they were put to much trou∣ble to find, and oftentimes they were forc'd to use corrupted water. Where∣upon he sayes,

As the water which they meet with is commonly naught, putryfied, to correct the indisposition which it causes in the stomach, the Turks take a drink, called Coffee, which begins to be used by the Europeans. This drink is made of a little Bean which grows in Arabia near Mecca in such abundance, that it is transported into

all Asia, and almost all the places where there be Mahometans▪ who make use of this drink instead of Wine, whereas it sufficiently imitates the effects, having the property to fortifie the stomach, and to make easie the digestion, and to purifie the va∣pours of the Head. They roast this Bean in a pan afterward they pound it in a Mortas, after having separa∣ted the bran by a fine Sieve, they boyl this black and burnt powder in water a little while, then they drink it as hot as they can, though this Liqour has not an agreable taste, but rather bitter, yet it is much esteem'd of by these people for the good effects they find therein; which manifests the care God has to furnish all Countryes with the necessary things for the ad∣vantage of men, and there is no doubt but that there be other plants in other Countries which have the like virtues.

The end of Coffee.