The manner of raising, ordering, and improving forrest-trees also, how to plant, make and keep woods, walks, avenues, lawns, hedges, &c. : with several figures proper for avenues and walks to end in, and convenient figures for lawns : also rules by M. Cook.

CHAP. X. (Book 10)

Of the Oaks Raising and Improving. (Book 10)

I Shall not trouble you with the several kinds there be; though the Learned J. Evelyn, Esq; Reduceth them to four, in his Dis∣course of Forest-Trees, but if they were distinguished by several Names, as we do our Pears, you might find as many varieties, onely according to the shape and taste of the Acorn: for as we know by Ex∣perience that several of our Pear-Trees grow Pyramid-like, as the Oak∣man-berry, and Bordon-Musk-Pears, &c. And some likewise grow much spreading, as the Winter-Bonchristian, the back Pear of Wor∣cester, &c. Even so do some of your Oaks; therefore if you desire aspiring Trees, take care to gather your Acorns off from such Trees, or rather gather them from under some such Trees, when fallen, and in a dry time if you can.

When you have so done, lay your Acorns thin in some open Room to dry, and when they be dry, keep them in some dry place till the latter end of January, and having prepared some good fresh Loomy Ground, by digging and keeping it clean before-hand, sow them, and let them be covered about an Inch and a half, or two Inches deep; by sowing them at this time, you shall save a great many, which other∣wise would have been spoyled by Mice or other Vermin; but if it hap∣pen to be a wet time when they fall, then will they begin to spear out in a short time after: And then so soon as you see them shoot forth a little bud at the small ends, commit them to their Spouse as soon as may be; for when they be come to the time that the Almighty hath alotted them, and be sed and made lusty by the dews and showers of the Heavens, then the Star-fire impregnats the Moysture in the seed, and then the seed throws off, or endeavours to do it, and then takes his Lodging in the Earth, where he prepares a room for his Off-spring; that is, as soon as the seed hath imbibed himself in the Water, and received heat, (for without both these no seeds can produce its kinds) the Body of the Acorn cracks, and the spear shoots into the Earth, and as soon as it hath got Entertainment there, and the Season of the year agreeable, the Bo∣dy of the seed either turns into leaves, or spends it self into leaves, and that little small part of the seed, the spear, that shoots forth Root, and

then shot and leaves; so that if the Acorn hath had a convenient quan∣tity of heat and moisture (but if too much of either of these, that is deadly to all seeds) then the seed spears forth, and if it be not com∣mitted to the Ground before it be dryed, and the spear withered, then for certain that Seed, Acorn, Nut, or Stone will never grow. For Nature, if once set on Motion, will rather cease to be, than alter its course; for Nature hates violence, neither can the seed receive this pre∣cious sperm without these two, Father and Mother; and these two must have a sutable Agreement between them: for though one Vessel be suf∣ficient to perfect the Infant in the Womb, yet Nature hath not been wanting to provide several Breasts to Nourish it. Therefore if your Acorns have taken wet, and the heat hath made them spear, you must sow them as soon as you can, and venture them a whole Winter in the Ground; remembring to keep some Traps set to catch the Mice.

In the Spring following they will come up, keep them clean from Weeds, and let them stand two or three years on their first bed, then ha∣ving prepared a piece of good fresh Ground, by adding some rotten dung to it, if poor; or good fresh Rich Ground (which is better than dung) cut the tap-root, and the side-boughs, and set them as you do other Trees in your Nurseries, keep your Ground with digging, and the Trees with pruning up every year; thus Order them till you find them fit to Remove, and you will then find no such hazard in the Remo∣ving them, as if they were never Transplanted before; for there is a great deal of Reason to be given that the oftner you Remove a Tree, the likelier 'tis to grow when it is Removed again, provided it be not too great. Besides, Experience doth plainly shew the same, for I have often found that a Walnut-Tree set of a Nut, and never-removed in its Minority, but still keeping his place of Situation, till it is six or seven Foot high, that in Removing such a Tree, you shall find near as much hazard in the growing of that Tree, as in Removing an Oak of the same stature, provided the Oak hath had his Abode in open Air, and not been tenderly Nursed up in a Wood; for such Trees, let them be of what kind you will, are nice to be removed out of their warm Habitation: But at this I have hinted before. Now, to shew you some Reason why any Tree being Removed before, is the likelier to grow when removed again, Observe these few Rules:

First, 'Tis the Nature of all Trees to put forth one Root first, and then some side-roots, according to the Kind and Nature of the Ground; and this most stately Tree doth commonly run to the bottom of the Soyl that is fit for his Nourishment, before it puts forth many side-roots, espe∣cially in a loose, hollow Ground, and then at the end of the tap-root

it puts forth feeding Roots, and when this Tree comes to be pretty big, it having few feeding Roots near home, the Tree can hardly be taken up well, without losing most of them, which will be a great hazard to the loss of your Tree.

Secondly, But when a Tree is taken up young, as at one, two, or three years old, then there is but small head, so that a little Root will maintain that, and then this little Root lying not deep, and in a little compass of Ground, may be taken up with less loss, to the proportion of the Head, than a greater.

Thirdly, When you have taken up these young Trees, in cutting off the end of the tap-root, and the ends of the greatest of the others, those very ends so cut off with the slope lowermost, will at that place put forth many small Roots, which lying near to the Body of the Tree, are the easier to be taken up with the Tree when 'tis Removed again.

Lastly, Custom in Removing of Trees tends somewhat to their grow∣ing, being Removed; for I sansie, that if you could get some Acorns of an Oak, that had (with his Fore-Fathers) been accustomed to Re∣moving, as our Apple-stocks are, I do Judge it would be then as pa∣tient of changing his Habitation as they. From that which hath been said I hope you will conclude with me, that 'tis best to Remove, either Forest-Trees, or others, when young; for if you Remove them when they be older, the better the Ground is, the more the Tree runs down with a tap-root; therefore if never Removed before, the worse to re∣move off from such a Ground.

Thus having Ordered these Young Trees till you have Nursed them up to the stature of six or seven Foot high, you may afterwards Trans∣plant them into your Walks, Wood, or where else your Fancy pleaseth, onely in Transplanting Observe this:

Make your holes four Foot wide, and two Spade deep at least; half a year, or a quarter at least before the time of Planting (if it be a year 'tis the better, provided you keep that Mould which you threw out of the holes clean from Weeds and Grass, by turning it over as Occa∣sion requires) and if you think your Ground be poor, or of some con∣trary Soyl to what your Tree Naturally delights to grow in, mix it with some such like Earth as your Tree doth best delight to grow in; as for an Oak, if your Ground be Gravelly, mix it then with the upper Spade of Ground that is a Brick-Earth, turning these together with the Earth you did throw out of the holes; if Clay, mix it then with a light Loom, or a fat Sand, or small Gravel; and if the Ground be poor, a little laying of rotten dung in the bottom of your holes, but let none be

among your Earth when you set your Trees, that is, to touch the roots of them.

Having thus prepared your holes for your Tree, and your Earth, if your Ground be a dry Soyl, then begin as soon as you find the Leaf to fall, that is in October: 'Tis not the Hill or Valley, North or South Situation which makes the finer or tougher Grain; but if there be a seeding Ground on the top of an Hill, or on the North side, more than there is in the Valley or South-side, there then will be the toughest Tim∣ber; for where a Tree grows most in a year, that Oak is the toughest Timber, and there that Tree shall have the most sap, as on a deep Loomy Ground: But let it be Hill or Valley, if it be a shallow ground, and the bottom Gravel, and not mixed with Loom or Clay, there Oaks will grow slow, and the Annual Circles being close together, the Tim∣ber must then be the finer Grained: and the sap of such Oaks is little, as I have many times Observed: Experience and Reason (which I have alwayes hitherto taken with me as Guides in my Travel and Search after Nature) have confirmed me in this: A light Brick-Earth, or a Loomy-Clay produce the stateliest Oaks, soonest, and toughest Tim∣ber, for there they grow quickest,

Your Clays produce great Oaks, for that is a holding Ground; al∣though they grow sometimes slow, yet they last long.

Your Gravel produceth many Oaks, and streight, they grow slow, the Timber is fine, and they decay while they be young; the Reasons of this I have told you before.

Having made Ready your Holes, and taken up your Trees well, I Advise you to open the Earth well round your Tree, keeping the side of your Spade to the Body of your Tree, to prevent Cutting the Roots when you take them up; and also to digg deep round the Tree, that when you come to pull up your Tree, it may come up easily, which will prevent those Roots which grow Elbow-like, which if they do not break off in pulling up, by straining them to pull up, they will crack so in the Elbow, that they will never grow, nor put forth Roots below that place; therefore for such Trees as be ticklish to Remove, take the more time, lest you verifie the Old Proverb, which saith,

Too much haste Oft makes waste.

Such Roots as you find Bruised, or much Cracked, cut them off, till you come at firm sound Root. Such Trees as are slow-growers, as the Oak is, you may prune up to the smaller Head; as, if your

Tree be taper and streight, you may prune up such a Tree to one shoot; but if your Tree be not taper, then leave two side-boughs, or more, to receive some of the Sap, which will make the shoot that you intend shall lead to make the body of the Tree, the smaller, and so your Tree will be taper; but top your shoots, all but your leading-shoot, which will make the Body of your Tree swell the more, and hinder them from equalling the leading-shoot, and by topping the other it will grow the stronger: I need not tell you which shoot you should leave to be the leading-shoot for your Tree, not Questioning but Sence and Reason will teach you to leave that which grows streightest and strongest; if you do leave any shoots, as most often it is necessary, leave them not right against one another, for that will make the Tree grow too suddenly thick in that place, but leave them one above another, so will your Tree grow the more taper, for it will be less and less upward, between the shoots, which shoots you must take off Year after Year, as your Tree runs up in height, minding still, now and then to leave some side-boughs to keep the Tree taper, or else you will want your height of Timber; or your Tree may grow top heavy, and so Crooked: I speak of Tim∣ber-trees, or the ways to Order Trees for Timber, (for I wish all Oaks were fit for Timber) but if your leading-shoot be much Crooked, then top it underneath a bud that tends upward, so low as if that bud lead away, it may grow near streight up; or cut off the leading-shoot un∣der another that grows more upright, Ordering it to be the leading-shoot so, as your Tree grows, mind to lead it up every Year, accor∣ding as you see Cause, taking care to keep off the Suckers, especially the first Year, unless you find the Head grow too great for the Body, then leave some side-boughs to receive some Sap, and to make your Tree taper, but this you shall hardly find in Oaks in their first Years growth, namely, to grow too much in Head.

Thus endeavouring to keep your Tree, (of what sort soever it be, if it be for Timber) with no great Head, still keep the leading-shoot uppermost, by sometimes heading the other side-boughs, about a Foot or more from the Body, or else they will be ready sometimes to make your Tree top-heavy, therefore keep your Tree till you have got it to the height you intend, by keeping it as is above-said; and if you find it is not taper by these means, then in the Moneth February slit the Bark quite thorow on three or four sides, according to the bigness of your Tree; but if small, but one or two: so if the Tree be three yards high to the Head, then let three slits go up one yard, two slits two yards high, and one to the top: But if it be a streight Tree, and taper, as you

would have it, if the Bark be bound, slit it on one or two sides, from the Ground to the top.

If your tree be young, though thriving, it will do it no harm, but much good, for you may see in many thriving trees the Bark part of it self, telling you that it wants your help, therefore observe Nature, and assist her in all your undertakings; for Wisdom standeth, not onely in the Streets, but in the Woods, calling to you to learn of her.

Note also, if you find any tree Crooked, slit it in the ham at the afore-said time, and take off some of the lower side of his Head, and you will help the crook of the tree, whether it be great or small; and in time, by so doing, it will grow streight: for by slitting the Bark in the ham it makes the tree swell there, and so sets the tree streight; there∣fore make two or three slits in the ham, according to the bigness of the tree and crook; but if the tree be pretty great, then take your Bill and cut the Bark thorow in the ham in several places, about two or three Inches asunder, let the Cut be cut slanting upward, a little cross the Diameter of the tree; by so doing you will stop the Sap in that place, the Bark will dilate, and the place grow greater, and so the tree will grow streighter.

Sometimes if your tree be not taper, in Summer when it shoots much, the weight of the Head will draw the Body crooked, and the Head will incline to the Ground; in such trees Leave shoots on the Body, to check and receive the Sap, and to keep it from abounding too much in the Head; but when you find your tree grown crooked by the Head, in Summer, with Leaves and Boughs weighing it down, as soon as you find it begin to leane, take off some of the Boughs on the leaning side, and top some according as you see cause: By this Summer-pruning you may keep your tree streight, therefore Observe it. I have found good success on Walnut-trees and Lines by it, &c.

But though Oaks grow Crooked, it is not often by their great shoots, for on most Grounds it grows slowly, but sometimes their Head, or leading shoot being cropped off by Cattel, it then breaks out on the sides into several leading shoots, and one leads one way, and another another; and so distributeth the Sap, which makes the tree not onely grow crook∣ed, but slowly; and sometimes the early shooting of the leading-shoot in the Spring causeth the same: For Frost coming upon the tender leaves and leading-bud, kills them, and then it is forc'd to break out a new on the sides; this happens often-times to young seedling Oaks in long Grass, which would gladly be more in the open Air, but by making too much haste many times they lose their Heads for it. Now in such Cases you must take off some, and cut some half a Foot off from the leading-shoot,

preserving that which is most likelie for the leading shoot, which though it be crooked, despair not, for Naturally it will grow streighter, and if you use pruning, and the afore-said Rules, it will be streight much the sooner. But in case you find your Young Oak very much stubbed near the Ground, and never a shoot that is fit to lead to make a Tree, in such a young Tree you must cut it off close at the Ground, in the Spring-time, so shall you have one fine shoot or more, but be sure take off all but one, and then you shall find that shoot thrive very much, till it hath got such a Head in bigness as the Head was before, and the Bark being then fine, it will enlarge it self for the growth of the shoot, and give good way for the Sap to run into the Head, and so make a fine Tree; therefore if your Tree be stunned, or much Crooked, then take this course, to head them close at the ground, and the Summer following neglect not to take off all the shoots but one, for at Midsomer it is as good, nay, better to prune some Trees than in the Spring, for then the Sap will soon cover round that wounded place, and if not heal it quite, it will preserve it from much harm, till the Spring following, and at that time shoots will not break out much into the head, to make it top-heavy: You may safely cut off small branches, and prune small Trees at this Summer-season. And for such Trees as have a great Pith, as the Ash and Walnut, I take it to be the best time for them. And whereas some say to the contrary, yet if the Reader will be Advised by me, let him prune such in Summer. But in the midst of Winter forbear to prune most Trees, especially great Boughs, or such Trees as have a great Pith, or tender, for then the wound lyeth ex∣posed to the open Air and Wet, and Frost coming upon the Wet, and piercing so far into the wounded place as the wet hath gone, kills the Wood, and makes a hole in that place, and that hole holding Water many times, Kills many a good Tree, especially where great Boughs are taken off, for they be long a covering over; and never will be co∣vered if the Tree be Old.

Therefore if your Tree be Old, forbear to cut off great Boughs; but if for some Reasons you are forced to do it, then cut off such Boughs two Foot, or a Yard from the Body of your Timber-tree; and let the place where you cut off such a Limb be perpendicular to the Horizon, rather inclining to the Nadir, than the Zenith; by so doing, the wa∣ter will not lie on such a place, and then the Tree will receive no harm.

But if your Tree be young and thriving, then cut off the Boughs as close as you can, keeping the wounded place perpendicular to the Ho∣rizon, and be sure not to leave Elbows to receive the wet, as too many of our Husband-men do; for, the closer you cut off a Bough to the

Body, the sooner the bark covereth that place, therefore cut off the side-boughs of young Timber-trees close and smooth.

I wish I could perswade all Lovers of handsome Timber-trees, at eve∣ry Fall of their Woods to prune up all the Timber-trees; but then the Wood must not stand too long before it be fell'd. You may prune off boughs of ten years growth very well, and so every ten years; or oft∣ner if it be in Hedg-rowes, prune up your Trees till you have got them to such a height as you find most convenient, viz. to fifty or sixty foot high: For I have many times observed Trees, of Oak, Ash, Elm and Beech, to have leading shoots sixty foot high and more, when they have had not above ten foot of good Timber; for Boughs have broke out at that height, and have so distributed the sap, that they were little worth, but for the Fire; when, if they had been pruned up as is before directed, you might have had the same height of good Timber; which, how much more profitable it would be, and also beautifull, I leave to any mans Judgement.

The Ash and Beech cover the wounded place over soon, and seldom break out many side-boughs: The Elm very frequently breaks out side-boughs, yet will arrive to a great height of good Timber: the Oak is a little subject to break out side-boughs, and though a slow grower, yet by its own hardness of his Wood he preserves himself well till it hath over-grown the wounded place, which it will in a few years doe, if your Tree be young and thriving, and the boughs, not very great; for if the boughs be great, that place when they be cut off is such a Damm to the sap, that it forceth it to break out with many small boughs there; especially in such Trees as have a thick and rugged bark, as the Elm and Oak have when old.

But if the Tree be young and thriving, then is the Bark thin and loose, and will more readily give way to the sap to ascend into the Head, and not break out into side-boughs; but if some few do break out, often pruning them close off will prevent that: But if you would be at a little more trouble, note this which I have found to be true, and your Tim∣ber shall pay you well for your pains.

At Midsommer, after you have pruned up your Trees, take off all the small shoots that are broke out on the side of your Trees, close to the body of the Tree; do thus two or three years together, and you will find every year the side-boughs to be fewer and fewer, till you have a clear body, beautifull to behold, and profitable for as good Tim∣ber, thirty or forty foot or more, which otherwise would not have been a quarter so high. Thus may you make an Elm (which is a Tree most

subject to break out side-boughs) as clear from boughs forty or fifty foot high, as they be.

Your Oak that is young you may easily master, and bring it to a clear body; though it is some what troublesome in Woods, yet in Hedg-Rowes it may be practised with ease, or in Walks, or on single Oaks: But our Yeomen and Farmers are too much subject to spoyl such Trees as would make our best Oaks, by heading them, and making them Pollards. I wish there were as strict a Law as could be made, to pu∣nish those that do presume to head an Oak, the King of Woods, though it be on their own Land.

By this means we should have the Farmer that is scanted in Wood, by often pruning off the side-boughs make many finer Trees than now there are; for in such places there is great food to make him a great Tree; and then in Coppices, if you let a Tree stand to be very great, it spoyls many a young one, and also your under-wood.

But methinks I hear some opposing me, saying, that by so pruning up of Trees, they do not prove so well for the Joyner, Carpenter, Wheeler, &c. for they say, if the Tree doth over-grow the Knot, when they come to cleave such a Tree, that place proves faulty within, and the Timber is not so good.

Secondly, They say, that cutting off the side-boughs, makes Trees more knotty.

Thirdly, they say, that it makes a Tree decay sooner.

To these three Objections I shall answer, and then hasten to conclude, and so leave my beloved Oak.

I do grant, that if the Knots be great, though the Trees be young and thriving, and have covered the place over well, if you come to saw out such Trees for Plank, Board, or VVainscot, that there may be some Defect there where great boughs were cut off; but suppose there be, you have still the same length clear Timber at the lower end as you would have had if these boughs had not been cut off; and then by pru∣ning up your Trees, they grow straighter, and your Tree carries a greater length of Timber, usefull for Beams, Summers, Raising, VVall∣plats, Rafters, Joyce, &c. and how much Timber these spend more than the other, viz. Board and VVainscot, &c. I leave you to deter∣mine. But my Advice is, not to let your boughs be great, but take them off from such Trees whilest young, and then the boughs will be young and small, and such Trees will cover such places in a little time, and these small Knots will not be perceived then, in case the Tree be sawn for VVainscot, &c.

Again, as to the first Objection, this seems to me a full Answer; as first, for such Trees as stand abroad single, you shall find them to have a clear body, of six, seven, eight or ten foot high, I only ask my Op∣ponent, whether such a length of Timber had Knots on it or no? I hope they will grant it had; well then, how comes it to be so clear without Knots? Now I tell you, 'tis Cattle that crop off the boughs whilest they be young, and that makes it clear from boughs, and the sap mounts up higher, and there breaks out, which if it were but taken off as it is below, it then would be as clear sixty foot as it is at six, and as straight.

This very Reason possess'd me so much, that it told me, an Elm (which is the most subject of any Tree to break out side-boughs) might be made clear Timber sixty foot high, as well as ordinarily they be six, by early, often, and Summer-pruning. This my Experience hath proved true.

Again, a Thorn or VVhite-bush growing in a Park, and kept under by Dear cropping of it, for eight, ten or more years, so that it hath got a hundred little boughs, if it once get but a leading shoot, and that out of the Dears reach, all shall unite in that one, and that shall come to be a straight body, and straight-grained, notwithstanding it was so crooked below; for the lower ones will all die by the Dear cropping them, and the saps free ascending into the leading shoot.

But as to the second Objection, I grant, that sometimes cutting off boughs, (especially great ones, and of Old trees) makes more, but then they be small; for the more a River is divided into small Rivu∣lets, the easier those little ones are stopped and brought into one; for a great River must have a great Damme, and taking off a great bough is a great Damme to the sap; for the Tree falling suddenly narrow upwards, and the sap being used to spend it self there, and having free passage thither, when it is got into that place it breaks out on each side of the Knot, into many little boughs; but if you take off these little boughs that Midsommer, the Summer after there will be but a small quantity in comparison of the Spring-sap: And the bark being then loose, it makes the easier way for the Sap to ascend into the head, and not to break out into Boughs; and so having prepared the way by the Sap, that Midsommer-shoot will not be at a stand so much the Spring following.

Or if the Spring after you have taken off the Boughs, you take off the little ones that were shot out the year before, and slit the bark above each Knot, that is, somewhat great down to the Knot; by so doing you may bring your Tree to have a clear Body, by a few years

pruning; for I have Observed it usual in many Trees the Year they have been pruned up, for the Bark to have cracked an Inch or more; which tells you most plainly, that the pruning of Trees doth make them swell in Body, therefore help the pent places by slitting the Bark: you may often see this on your Ash, &c.

Pray you, how comes it, that in your Coppices you shall have Tim∣ber-trees ten or twelve Foot high, clear, without Bough, and then the Tree break out all into head? It is (I am confident) the under-wood which smothers, and beats off the side-boughs as high as that grows, and so makes the Timber clear so high; also if you mark where high Tim∣ber-trees are, that have clear Bodies a great height, they do, or did stand thick together, and so one draws up another, smothering the side-boughs, and beating them off (sometimes) by their Motion in great Winds.

Thus by what has been said of Cattels Cropping, Trees standing in Coppices, and by Trees standing thick together, you may Learn that you may do the same, and have Timber, by pruning, as clear from Knots, as it is by those Accidents.

Thirdly, Whereas they say it makes a tree decay sooner; I grant this, that to prune off great Boughs from an Old tree, makes it decay sooner; for the Wounded place being great, and the Tree slow of growth, is a long time covering over that place (if it can be done at last) and that takes wet and Air, and decays the Tree; therefore I do not Advise you to take great Boughs off from any tree.

But small Boughs cut off smooth, and close, from an Old tree or Young, causeth the tree to last longer, and to be clearer Timber: For when small Boughs are taken off from the side of your Tree, though Old, the Tree then not drawing much Sap, that little Sap doth most of it then ascend into the Head, and so makes the Head continue fresh and thriving the longer; and taking off the side-boughs makes the Tree to swell, and grow sooner into a great Body.

For the Boughs that break out of the side have not such deep Root in the Body of the Tree, (I mean those that come forth after the Tree hath been once pruned) for every bough that breaks out, breaks out through the Bark, and hath its Root between the Bark and Tree that Year, and as the Tree increaseth, so that knot is deeper and deeper in the Body of the Tree: thus taking off the small Boughs often, keepeth the Tree clearer from great knots within the Timber, and the little knots do cover over so soon before the out-side of the knot be dead, that they become as clear Timber.

Thus have I shewed you, that all sorts of Trees come to have clear

Bodies by pruning, either Natural or Artificial; that is by Cattel crop∣ping, by under-wood beating off the side-boughs, or by standing close one to another, and so drawing up one another, and smothering the side-boughs by standing so thick, or by pruning, &c.

Reader, if thy Faith hold out, Read on; But if you find you can't believe, be gone: For, with more ease a Man might undertake To bring Brute Bear unto the Fatal stake, Than him to Teach, whose Infidelity Does Demonstration, Reason, Truth defie.

Thus have I shewed in part how to Raise and Order the Oak from the Acorn, till it is thirty or forty Years old. There is one thing more to be known, which is, how to Remove an Oak that is large (or other Tree) and that was never Removed before; I shall borrow part of it from the Learned Esquire Evelin's Discourse of Forest-trees, p. 13. Choose a Tree as big as your Thigh, saith he, (but if less, the better to grow) Remove the Earth from about him, cut through all the Col∣lateral Roots, till with a Competent strength you can inforce him down upon one side, so as to come with your Ax at the tap root; cut that off, and cut all the Roots smooth on the under-side, re-dress your Tree, and so let it stand, covered about with the Mould you loosened from it, till the next Year, or rather longer, then take it up at a fit Season, and you will find it will (at those ends where the Roots were cut off) have drawn many tender young Roots, apt to take, and sufficient for the Tree wheresoever you shall transplant him: further to facilitate the Removal of such great Trees, or small ones that are ticklish to Remove, for the Adornment of some particular place, or the rarity of the Plant, there is this Expedient: A little before the hard Frosts surprise you, make a Trench about your Tree, at such distance from the stemme as you judge sufficient for the Roots; dig this so deep till you come lower than the side-roots, if your Ground be a dry Ground, water the Hill of Earth, the Frosts will lay hold on it the more, but commonly in Winter before Frosts we have showers saves you that Labour; then lay some Litter in the bottom of your Trench, which will keep that part from freezing, in case you have Occasion to undermine it more to loosen it when you take it up, as is very likely you will: Thus let it stand till some hard Frost do bind the Earth firmly to the Roots, and then convey it to the Pit or Hole prepared for its new station, having be∣fore covered the Earth by with some Horse-Litter to keep that Earth

from freezing, which Mould will then be ready to cover that clod round the Root of the Tree, and the ends of the Roots, and so secure it the better; and that Litter will do well to lay round the Tree on the top of the Ground.

But in case the Tree be very great, and the Mould about the Roots be so ponderous as not to be removed by an ordinary force, you must then have a Gin or Crane, such a one as they have to Load Timber with; and by that you may weigh it out of its place, and place the whole upon a Trundle or Sledge, to convey it to the place you desire; and by the afore-said Engine you may take it off from the Trundle, and set it in its hole at your pleasure. By this Address you may transplant trees of a great stature without the least Disorder, and by taking off the less of their Heads, which is of great Importance where this is practised, to supply a Defect, or remove a Curiosity.

I do suppose that one of these small Cranes or Gins would be very useful to those that have a great many pretty big trees to take up in their Nurseries, especially such as have strong and tough Roots; for if the Ground were but well loosened round the Roots, and a Rope well fa∣stened a little above the Ground to the stemme of the tree, I dare en∣gage, that this way one Man with a Lever shall draw up more than ten Men: And besides, this will draw upright, which is better than draw∣ing on one side, as many are forced to do. You must have on the lower end of the three Legs, pieces of Plank, to keep it from sinking too far into the loose Ground: I have now one a making, and hereafter I shall be able to give you a better Account of it than now; the onely Inconve∣nience I think of at present, is, in fastening the Rope about the Tree so, that it may not slide, or gall the tree; but a piece of good Leather, about four or five Inches broad, with three or four Straps to come through so many holes, when it is fastened to the Rope they may all be strained alike; this I suppose will do your work. The afore-said Learned Author Adviseth you, before you take up trees, to mark them all on one side, the better to place that side to point to the same Aspect it did before: For, Oaks growing on the North side of an Hill, are more Mossie than those that grow on the South-side: this I grant, because that side is Colder and Wetter; for it is Cold and Wet Ground that breeds Moss most, and that gets from the Ground upon the Trees: Also he says, that Apple-trees standing in a Hedge-row, after the Hedge was taken away, the Apple-trees did not thrive so well as they did be∣fore, for want of the shelter of the Hedge. I say, that if the Hedge∣row had drawn up the Apple-trees so as to make them top-heavy, they might not thrive so well; but if they were not, the shelter being taken

away, they would thrive the better: unless by thriving he means grow∣ing in height: See Lord Bacon's Natural History, p. 113. For a tree pent up cannot spread.

But as for placing the South-side of a tree South again, this is not to the purpose; for the greatest time that Trees grow in, is from the Suns entring into Aries to his entring into Libra; and all that time (that is, half a Year) the Tree hath the Sun on the North-side both Morn∣ing and Evening, and the North side hath the benefit of warming it self later in the Evening, and earlier in the Morning, having two hours time earlier, and two later in the height of Summer, more than the South-side: Again, you shall have the Cold be as much on the South∣side of a Wall or Tree in the Night, as on the North, if the Wind blow on the South-side; therefore I do Judge that to place a Tree the South∣side South again, signifieth little, though the same Author saith, p. 88. and the Author of the Book, Called [Mathematical Recreations] p. 75. saith, That a Tree groweth more on the South-side than on the North; I have oft Observed the Annual Circles, and have found as many, nay more, to the contrary; for thus I have always found, on a Tree near the Ground the Annual Circles have been the greatest on that side from which most of the great Roots came: As if a Tree grow on the South-side of a Bank, you shall find the Circles on that Tree to be greatest on the North-side, &c. but higher on a Tree the Circles are ever greatest on that side the Tree where there is a great Bough breaks out, for the Sap has great recourse thither; many times by sudden cold some is stayed by the way, and so increaseth that side of the Tree most.

For I take the Sap of a Tree, if the Weather be open (that is, of those Trees that shed their Leaves) to be still ascending into the Head, though it be Mid-winter; though there do not rise enough to keep the Leaves on, nor to make it bud forth, yet it is plain that it keeps the buds full and fresh, and increaseth the growth of the Tree, for that same pory substance of the Tree which is between every Annual Circle that is made by the Winter-sap; and the milder the Winter is, the greater you shall find this to be, as is visible in Ash, Oak, Elm, &c. The other, which is more hard and clear, is increased by the Sap in Summer; and the more feeding the Summer is by showers, the more shall the Circles increase on dry Ground; and according to the Nature of the Ground that the Tree Loves, and the depth of the Soyl, so doth the Tree increase in these Circles and growth in all parts.

Between these Annual Circles doth some Sap rise, as is plain in a tree that is Barked round, for that tree shall put forth Leaves and increase

in Body, but produce little or no shoot, and the more porous the tree is between these Annual Circles, the longer that tree will Live, as ac∣cidentally I have had it Experimented on Walnut-trees, Ashes, &c. And they have continued sometimes two years, and sometimes near three before they have dyed, when they have been barked quite round the stemme, a Foot or more; and by way of Experiment I cut off the Bark from a Holly-tree and a Box-tree about half a Foot clean, quite round the stemme or body of each tree, and the tops of both did die in less than one years time, which informed my Reason, as much as though I had Learned it out of the most Learned Author, that the Sap of those trees that shed their Leaves, doth in a small quantity ascend between the Annual Circles, in that pory place: for trees that hold their leaves, their Wood is close, and Compact between the Annual Circles, and that is the Reason that they die soon, being barked round: Also their Sap being of a Turpentine and Clammy Substance, is the Reason they hold their Leaves all Winter, being as it were glued on by that Substance; and the Sap of such Trees as hold their Leaves, being once set by cold, requires a pretty deal of heat to make it thin, and set it on Motion: As Comparatively, a little Cold will set or make stiff Pitch or Turpentine; but it must be Frost that sets or stays the Motion of Water.

Also those Trees which hold their Leaves will grow much better un∣der the dropping of other great Trees, than those that shed their Leaves; for their Turpentine-sap shoots off the drops, so that they have little or no harm by such a Scituation,

But in case you should have a Tree Barked round by Accident, and would willingly preserve it, your best way is to get a shoot below the wounded place, and if your Tree be Young, you shall then have seve∣ral break out a little above the Root, if you find they shoot strong, preserve two of the strongest, and see that the Barked place be near the Ground; but if your Tree be Barked high from the Ground, or that it shoot up slowly, then leave but one shoot, keeping all other that shoot out clean taken off, as soon as ever you see them break out; so Nourish up the two shoots or shoot till you have got them higher than the wounded place; then cut a long slit in the Bark, above the wound, and joyn in that shoot exactly, making it fit the slit, the in-side of one bark right against the in-side of the other; tie it close in, and Loom it over with good and well tempered Loom, to keep the Air and wet out; or better with soft Wax. The Spring is the best Season, but if you fear your Tree to decay, defer not, but do it as soon as your shoots be shot long enough.

If you would be further satisfied concerning the Largeness and Use∣fulness

of this Royal Tree, see Esquire Evelyn's Discourse of Forest∣trees, who hath writ very well of this and others; but before I bid adieu, I must Plant these few unpruned Verses, and so leave the most Useful Oak.

O Stately Tree! Who right can speak thy Praise Doth well deserve the Lawrel or the Bays. Ask but our Thames what Burdens thou hast bore Of Gold and Silver fine, and in their ore, Of Rubies, Diamonds, and Pearls most rare, With others which past valuation are. Of Silk and Sattins fine to Cloath the Back; Of Wines, Italian, French, and Spanish Sack: Of Spices, Fruits, and many a Rich Dye, To Satisfie and Feast the Curious Eye: Of Mastick, Myrrh, and many a Rich Gum; Alloes and Druggs which from the Indies come. He who Loves this thy Burthen, and not Thee, He deserves never to be worth one Tree. 'Twas Faithful Oak preserv'd our King, that we Might thence Learn Lessons of true Loyalty. Kings, Lords, and Earls, and Men of Low Degree, Transported are by this our Royal Tree; Oak-Walls our Seas and Island do inclose, Our Best Defence against our Forreign Foes. No thing on Earth but Oak can Time Redeem, No Wood deserving of so high Esteem. When in Salt Seas Sir Francis Drake did stear, Sailing in Oak he sav'd one day i'th' Year. His Oak which the Terrestrial Globe did Measure, Through Dangers led him t' Honour, Profit, Pleasure. No Wood like Oak that grows upon the Ground, To make our House and Ships last long and sound; No Oak like Ours: By Love to Oaks let's then Appear true Subjects, and right English-men.