The present state of England. Part III. and Part IV. containing I. an account of the riches, strength, magnificence, natural production, manufactures of this island, with an exact catalogue of the nobility, and their seats, &c., II. the trade and commerce within it self, and with all countries traded to by the English, as at this day established, and all other matters relating to inland and marine affairs : supplying what is omitted in the two former parts ...

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Title
The present state of England. Part III. and Part IV. containing I. an account of the riches, strength, magnificence, natural production, manufactures of this island, with an exact catalogue of the nobility, and their seats, &c., II. the trade and commerce within it self, and with all countries traded to by the English, as at this day established, and all other matters relating to inland and marine affairs : supplying what is omitted in the two former parts ...
Author
Chamberlayne, Edward, 1616-1703.
Publication
London :: Printed for William Whitwood ...,
1683.
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"The present state of England. Part III. and Part IV. containing I. an account of the riches, strength, magnificence, natural production, manufactures of this island, with an exact catalogue of the nobility, and their seats, &c., II. the trade and commerce within it self, and with all countries traded to by the English, as at this day established, and all other matters relating to inland and marine affairs : supplying what is omitted in the two former parts ..." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A31596.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 4, 2024.

Pages

Page 177

CHAP. LV. A Treatise of Precious-Stones, how to know them and their true value, viz. Diamonds, Rubies, Saphyrs, &c. as also the goodness and worth of Pearles in General.

THe Weight usual in India for Diamonds and Precious Stones, were brought thither by the Portugals, called the Mange∣ar or Fanan, which differs not much from the Carot, whereof 150 Carots make an Ounce Troy; and is divided into 64.33.16.8.4.2.1. ½ ¼ ⅛ 1/16 Parts. The Mangelue or Mangear is near or altogether 5 Grains Weight, or 2 Tars ⅔ Accounted the ⅔ of 1 Carot, so that 4 Grains and 4 Tars weigh a Fanan, the Fanan being somewhat above 2 of our Carots, for 11 ¼ Fanans are 1 Mittigal. and 6 Mittiglas and ½ make the Ounce Troy; this Fanan in many parts of India goes currant for a Coyn, being E∣qually valued with a Spanish Ryal; and thus having laid down the proportion of the Weights, I shall first begin with the Dimonds, the chief of Precious Stones,

Page 178

then to know a good and true Diamond take this rule. A good and right Diamond is fast and no ways porous, so that it will re∣sist the Fire, and after several hours con∣tinuance therein, come out bright as at first; and in choice of such a one▪ it must be nei∣ther Brown, Yellowish, Blewish, nor a Dullish-Black, but of a good Water-Chri∣staline; not wanting any corner when Po∣lished on a Mill, nor be too thick nor too thinn, but so as it may be set firm, and to good advantage in a Ring, or Collet without being upholden by Velvet, and such a Diamond weighing 1 Carot is worth 35 pounds Sterling or upwards.

Note when you have found out the true value of a perfect Diamond or Diamonds, this Rule is to be observed. Suppose a Dia∣mond weighing a Carot Weight be worth 40 Ducats more or less, then the 4th. part being ten Ducats is the price of a Diamond weighing half a Carot, so the Diamond weighing a Carot is worth but the 4th. part of the value of one weighing 2 Ca∣rots, viz. 40 Ducats, and that weighing 2 Carots worth 160 Ducats; and so if there be over Weight by Grains, you must di∣vide all into Grains, and then a Diamond weighing 3 Grains is worth but the 4th. part of that weighing 6. And this is a Ge∣neral

Page 179

Rule, not only for Diamonds but all manner of precious Stones, according to Equality in goodness, as for Example a thick Table Diamond of the goodness a∣foresaid weighing 1 Grain is worth 1 pound 17 Shillings 6 pence, weighing 2 Grains is worth 7 pound 10 Shillings, weighing 3 Grains is worth 16 pound 17 Shillings 6 pence, weighing 1 Carot is worth 30 pound, and so proportionably to 8 Carots, yet there are some Diamonds imperfect, and not of any Extraordinary value, which are called Brut Diamonds, Naifs, Rocks, and flat-Stones, which are bought and sold at uncertain rates.

The Ruby is found in Zeilam in India, and called commonly the Carbuncle, try∣ed in the Fire to know its perfection, the which if it abide and come out Burning like a Cole and of a high Colour, it is Ac∣counted perfect; a Stone of which perfecti∣on weighing but one Carot or ½, a Fanan is valued at 30 Fanans in Callicut, and in∣crease in value as the Dimonds according to their Weight; there is another sort on∣ly called a Ruby, found in a River in the Kingdom of Pegu; but it will not indure the Fire, but looseth it's Colour▪ when put to the Tryal; there are likewise several sorts of Rubies as the Carbuncle, Ballas,

Page 180

Spinal, Garnat, and Rubas; but this Ruby of Pegu is accounted the next in value to the Carbuncle, and a Ruby square table-wise, perfect, and of high Colour of 16.18.20. or 24. Carots in Colour, weigh∣ing a Fanan is worth sometimes in the In∣dia's, 100. Ducats, and in England weighing 11 ½ Carots, and of 20 Carots in Colour perfect and without Blemish, is worth 350 pound Sterling or rather more.

Saphyrs are found in Zeilam, Calucut, Ba∣singer, Canoner, and Pegu, and those are accounted best that are of a pure Azure or Sky-Colour, and in that hardness excelleth all other Stones the Diamond excepted, and according to their Colour are held in Esti∣mation; as for example, Saphyr weigh∣ing one Carot is worth 2 Fanans, one weighing 2 Carots is worth 5 Fanans, one weighing 3 worth 10 Fanans, and one weighing 4 Carots worth 15 Fanans, and so Proportionably each Fanan being Ac∣counted 2 Carots; after this manner Tur∣quoise, Topaze, Berrils, Crysolites, Jacynths, Amathists, and other precious Stones are known and valued every one according to their goodness and Weight; as for Pearls, how they are taken, I have before set down, and now I shall as far as is necessary make a report of their true value

Page 181

according as they are in goodness.

The Rule to value Oriental Pearls, from a Grain in Weight to what bigness any will afford, is by the Colour, Round∣ness, Pear-Fashion, or Oval; and that is in all parts perfect, as to Water and Gloss, without Knobs, Specks, Yellowness or other imperfections, and a Pearl of this perfection weighing a Carot is worth a Ducat in India. But before I proceed fur∣ther, as to their value it will not be a∣miss to relate how they are sold, by those that have the disposing of them, viz. the Indians sell them by Sieves of Latten full of holes in number 12, one bigger then the other as to their holes, and according to the largeness or smallness, the price is re∣gulated; for those of the 10, 11, and 12 Sieve are seldom capable to be holed, and therefore are called Seed-Pearls; most fit for Apothecaries, to be used by them in their Physical Preparations; but the others for the use of Ladies, and others to adorn themselves withal; and for the price of all large Pearls, they are valued as is said by Weight and fairness, as Diamonds and o∣ther precious Stones, tho seldom before they be holed for fear of their breaking in the holing; as thus, a Pearl of one Grain is worth 7 pence, of 2 Grains 2 Shillings

Page 182

6 pence, of 3 Grains 5 Shillings 7 pence, of 1 Carot 10 Shillings, and so in pro∣portion to those of greater Weight, as for Seed-Pearls, the smallest of which are Ac∣counted 4500. to the Ounce, and the larg∣est 400 or 450 to the Ounce, and com∣monly divided into 6 parts, the Prizes are these: The 6th. or smallest sort 4500 are commonly sold for 2 pound 4 Shillings the Ounce, the 5th. sort are sold for 1 pound 6 Shillings the Ounce, the 4th. sort at 10 Shillings the Ounce, the third sort at 18 Shillings the Ounce, the second at 1 pound 6 Shillings, and the first at 1 pound 15 Shillings. But note that the first is termed the sixth sort, and so Consequently the sixth the first; the Rag Pearls which are sold likewise by the Ounce, according to their bigness are divided into thirds, se∣conds, and firsts, an Ounce of which con∣taining 350 Pearls, is Accounted worth 1 pound 18 Shillings, an Ounce containing 250 Pearls is Accounted worth 3 pounds, an Ounce of 150 worth 4 pounds, and so according to their lesser quantity or num∣ber, in making the Ounce, all sorts of half round Pearls of pure Water, and Gloss are Accounted worth a round Pearl of half the Weight. And thus much for Gold, Silver, precious Stones, and Oriential

Page 283

Pearls; with which I shall return to Europe, as the common Receptacle of those rich Commodities, which were of little value to the Indians, before the European Navi∣gators set Prizes thereon, and by that means taught the Natives how to Esteem them; for in the first Discovery of the In∣dies by the Portugals, they bought them for Beads of Glass, and such like Trifles, but now they are not purchased; but at Extra∣ordinary rates.

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