The French perfumer teaching the several ways of extracting the odours of drugs and flowers and making all the compositions of perfumes for powder, wash-balls, essences, oyls, wax, pomatum, paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other sweet waters ... : also how to colour and scent gloves and fans, together with the secret of cleansing tobacco and perfuming it for all sorts of snuff, Spanish, Roman, &c. / done into English from the original printed at Paris.

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Title
The French perfumer teaching the several ways of extracting the odours of drugs and flowers and making all the compositions of perfumes for powder, wash-balls, essences, oyls, wax, pomatum, paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other sweet waters ... : also how to colour and scent gloves and fans, together with the secret of cleansing tobacco and perfuming it for all sorts of snuff, Spanish, Roman, &c. / done into English from the original printed at Paris.
Author
Barbe, Simon.
Publication
London :: Printed for Sam. Buckley ...,
1696.
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Subject terms
Perfumes -- Early works to 1800.
Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A30869.0001.001
Cite this Item
"The French perfumer teaching the several ways of extracting the odours of drugs and flowers and making all the compositions of perfumes for powder, wash-balls, essences, oyls, wax, pomatum, paste, Queen of Hungary's Rosa Solis, and other sweet waters ... : also how to colour and scent gloves and fans, together with the secret of cleansing tobacco and perfuming it for all sorts of snuff, Spanish, Roman, &c. / done into English from the original printed at Paris." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A30869.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 15, 2024.

Pages

A Treatise of gross Powders a la Ma∣rechale, and how to use them.

Gross Powder a la Marechale.

TAKE a Pound of Iris, twelve Ounces of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Coriander, half a Pound of Roses of Province, two Ounces of Angel-water Dregs, an Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, half an Ounce of Cloves, beat all them Drugs in the Mortar one after another, then mix them well toge∣ther and 'tis done.

Another sort.

TAKE twelve Ounces of Iris, half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Roses of Province, four Ounces

Page 81

of Wood of Roses, one Ounce of Ben∣jamin, half an Ounce of Limon Peels dry, as much of Orange Peels dry, half an Ounce of Marjoram dry, an Ounce of Souchet, half an Ounce of Calamus, two Gros of Cinnamon, half an Ounce of Cloves, two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain; beat all the Drugs one after another in a Mortar; mix them very well together, your Powder is good.

Another Sort.

TAKE a Pound of Iris Powder, half a Pound of Orange-flowers dry, four Ounces of Roses of Provins, two Ounces of Wood of Sendal Citrain, one Ounce of Orange-peels dry; half an Ounce of sweet Marjoram, as much of Lavender dry, an Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, one Ounce of Benjamin, half an Ounce of Storax, and half an Ounce of Labdanum; beat all them Drugs in a Mortar, one after ano∣ther, and mix them very well; the Pow∣der is made. You may add to all these Powders sweet Woods.

Page 82

A Receipt for sweet Bags.

TAke twelve Ounces of common Rose Leaves, a Pound and half of La∣vender, twelve Ounces of sweet Marjo∣ram Leaves, four Ounces of Myrrh Leaves, six Ounces of Thyme Leaves, four Ounces of Melilot Leaves, one Ounce of Rosemary Leaves, an Ounce of Bay-leaves, two Ounces of Cloves half beaten, an Ounce of musked Rose-leaves, as much as you can of Orange-flowers, and of Carnation-flowers; put all these in a Pot, making a bed of Flow∣ers, and a bed of Salt, and so again till your pot is full: stop it well, and stir it every other day with a Stick, exposing it to the hot Sun in the Summer: but take it away when it Rains, and an hour before the Sun setting at a Years end; fill your sweet Bags with your prepared Drugs, adding to it some Cypress Pow∣der Perfum'd as you think fit.

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Rose Buds.

TAKE what quantity of Rose-Buds you please, the closest Green, and in their room put as many Cloves, dry them in the Sun between two Papers; they'll be very good to put in your sweet Bags.

You may, if you will, expose them to the Sun, in an Earthen Pot covered with Paper, and sprinkle them with the best Angel-water, and being dry use them as before.

Orange Flowers dry.

DRY in the Sun what quantity you will of Orange flowers, between two Papers very close round about, being dry keep them for your use.

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Little sweet Bags.

CUT little Silk Bags square, sow them round about, leave only a slit, and put in twelve Ounces of Mare∣chale Powder, sow up the slit and 'tis done. After a while, if the Bags have lost their smell, take out the Powder, and beat it in a Mortar, put it again in your Bags, and it will be sweet as before.

Another sort.

CUT your Silk Bags as before, with∣out sowing them, lay upon one peice of your Bag some of the gross Marechale Powder, then put over it a Bed of Cot∣ton Perfum'd an Inch thick, strew the same Powder over the Cotton; then co∣ver it with the other peice of Silk, and sow your Bag without shaking it, quilt it and 'tis done. You may trim it with Ribbons, or what you please, in the four corners of the Bags.

Page 85

Sweet Bags to wear about you.

TAKE some rich silk, cut your Bags of four Inches square, longer if you will; rub the wrong side of the Silk with Civet, then fill them with gross Marechale Powder of what sort you will; add to it few Cloves, and a little of the wood of Sendal Citrain both bea∣ten; it will strengthen and revive the sweet smell. Your bags being full, sow them, and trim them if you will.

Another sort.

CUT your fine silk Bags as before, of four Inches, and fill them with these Compositions.

Beat in a little Mortar eight Grains of Musk, and pour over it half a spoonful of Millefleur Water; add to it four grains of Civet, beat them with the Musk, pour over it four Drops of Balm of Peru, and a spoonful of several sorts of Water; having mingled the whole together very well with the Pestle, rub the wrong side

Page 86

of your Bags gently with it, then fill them with the Composition, in the first Receipt of sweet Bags, with Cyprus Powder Perfum'd, well mixt together; sow your Bags, trim them as fine as you will, they are done.

Another sort.

TAKE the finest Silk, cut your Bags a little bigger than others before, and fill them with the following Perfumes.

Heat the bottom of a little Mortar, melt in it eight Grains of Amber, mix with them four Grains of Civet beaten small with the Pestle; then pour gently over it two Spoonfuls of Millefleur Wa∣ter, with the bigness of a Pea of Gum Arabick, dissolved with the same Water; rub a little the wrong side of your Bags with the same Composition, then fill them with Cyprus and Frangipane-Powders Perfum'd in the same quantity; mix with it little bits of Bladder of Musk, sow your Bags, &c.

Page 87

Fine Basket of Ozier Perfumed, to keep Ladies Cloths in.

GET a Basket of fine Ozier, of what bigness you will, take as much of Silk as you want to line it; stretch your Silk over an Imbroidering frame; then over the Silk a Bed of Perfumed Cotton, of the thickness of two Crown Peices, strew over the Cotton some of the Ma∣rechal Powder, and over the Powder some of the Sendal Citrain Wood well beaten; then cover it all with the other piece of Silk, quilt it in Lozinges. This done cut your Silk according to the bottom of your Basket, of the sides and the cover, bind the edges with silk Galoon, of the same colour of your Silk, then sew it to the Basket very well.

Page 88

Pockets perfum'd for ladies.

THE same Stuff, Perfumes and Quilt∣ing, as in the last Receipt, will serve to Perfume Pockets; cut your Stuff only for Pockets, bend round the Seams with Silk Galoon, and they are made.

Boxes perfum'd for Perriwigs.

THE Perriwig-boxes must be of Wood an Inch thick, half an Ell long, round at the ends, and in the shape of a Perri∣wig: To line it, stretch on a Frame a bit of Silk, and lay over it a Bed of Cot∣ton well perfum'd thin and even, strew over the Cotton the best Powder a la Marechale not too coarse, and over that Powder a little of Sendal Citron-wood beaten very small: Then cover it all with the finest Taby rubb'd before with the following Preparation; Quilt your Silk and cut it according to the shape of your Box and the cover, bind the edges with Silk Galoon of the same colour of the Tabby; then line the in-side of the Box, the out▪side must be covered with

Page 89

a perfum'd sweet Skin, and the edges of the Skin cover'd with a gold or silver Galoon, the Lock and Key gilt over.

How to perfume the wrong side of the Tabby.

WARM the bottom of a little Mor∣tar, then melt in it ten Grains of Amber, stirring it with the Pestle, pour four drops of Orange-flower-water; add to it six Grains of Civet, then mix it all together very well, and pour over two Spoonfuls of Millefleur-water, and a piece as big as a Pea of Gum-Arbick dissolved with the same Water; the whole being well mixt, rub gently with it the wrong side of the Tabby with a bit of Spunge, and 'tis done.

Boxes perfum'd to keep Linnen.

THOSE Boxes must be lined within, cover'd and perfum'd after the same manner as the Perriwig-boxes, the shape

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only of these must be like a little Trunk, to keep fine Linnen for Persons of Qua∣lity.

To Perfume Toilets.

SWEET Toilets may be prepared of two sorts, the first which differs no∣thing from the lining of the Perriwig∣boxes, is thus prepar'd. Take as much Silk or Stuff as you will have your Toilet, stretch it on a Frame, lay over it a Bed of Cotton perfum'd, and the Powder over the Cotton, cover it with what Silk you will, and Quilt it. If the out-side of your Silk was not thick enough to endure the Preparation you rub it with, add to that Composition some of the Millefleur-water, have a sufficient quan∣tity of Cotton to soak it, then dry it, and lay a Bed very thin, and even all over your Powder, or in many places, and cover it all with your Silk well quilted, and your Toilet is done.

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Sweet Toilets as they prepare them at Montpellier.

TAKE new Linnen Cloth very strong, not too thick, cut it according to your Toilets, dip them and wash them in several Waters, then lay them in Angel∣water all night, dry them well, and per∣fume them thus.

Beat in fine Powder, and pass it through a hair Sieve, two Pounds of Iris, a Pound of Campane-root, two Ounces of Wood of Roses, and four Ounces of Sendal-Citrain, one Ounce of Calamus, two Ounces of Souchet, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, two Gros of Cloves, and half an Ounce of Labdanum, then mix them all together, put them in a Mortar, and pour over some Gum-Adragant dissolved with Angel-water; the Gum must be very thin, put Water enough that the Paste be fine and liquid; rub your Toilets with that Paste on both sides as hard as you can, rub them even, then let them dry, being almost dry, take a Spunge dipt in Angel-water, rub your Toilets with it to make them smooth, let them dry again and they are done.

Page 92

When they are dry, fold them as you will have them▪ and keep them between two Cloths.

Another Preparation of the same.

THE Cloths being washt clean and dry as before, make use of this Com∣position.

Beat very well one after another, and pass very fine through a hair Sieve, the following Drugs, two Pounds of Iris, a Pound of Campane-root, two Ounces of Lemon-peels, an Ounce of dry Orange-peels, an Ounce of Cloves, half a Pound of Benjamin, four Ounces of Storax, two Ounces of Souchet, and one Ounce of Labdanum; mix them all together, and make a Paste very thin, as in the former Receipt, rub your Cloths, prepare them as before, and 'tis done.

Page 93

Perfumes to wear about you.

BEAT in a little Mortar the bigness of a Pea of Benjamin, pour over it a few drops of Balm of Peru; then add to it four Grains of Civet, stir it and mix it well with the Pestle, and put it with Cot∣ton in your Perfume-box.

Another sort.

WARM the Mortar and melt in it four Grains of Amber infused in a few drops of Essence of Amber, put to it two Grains of Civet, mix it all, and put it with Cotton in your Sweet Box.

Another sort.

WARM the Mortar pretty hot as before, melt in it six Grains of Amber dissolved with four drops of Millefleur-water, add to it four Grains

Page 94

of Musk, stir and bruise them all toge∣ther, put it into your little Box with Cot∣ton rub'd with a Grain of Civet.

Another sort.

BRuise in the Mortar four Grains of Musk, and two Grains of Civet, pour over it four drops of Balm of Peru, gather it up with Cotton, and put it in your little Box.

Another sort.

WARM the Mortar, and melt in it twelve Grains of Amber, and six Grains of Civet, dissolved with some drops of Water; then take a little Cotton dipt in a few drops of Essence of Cloves and Cinnamon, and take up your Perfume with that Cotton; put it all in a little Bladder of Musk very close, and wrap it with a bit of Sweet Skin, sow'd round about, you may cover it with another Stuff if you please.

Page 95

Another sort.

IN Boxes with several little Partitions, put several Sweet Drugs without any mixture; as for Example, in one Parti∣tion Balm of Peru, in another Civet with Cotton, and so in others different Per∣fumes as you like.

Perfumes to burn.

GET a wooden Trunk call'd a Per∣fuming Trunk, it is like other Trunks, only this has a hole at the bot∣tom to put in two or three little Panfuls of Fire to burn the Perfumes, and when they are burning stop the hole; and at the top of the Trunk within about half a foot, there is a wooden or wire Grate to hold what you design to Perfume, turn your Perfume that the Smell should be even every where, and that the Smoak should not black what you laid on the Grate. This Receipt will serve for every thing you have a mind to perfume with Smoak.

Page 96

Cotton perfum'd.

LAY your Cotton even upon the Grate, and burn what sort of Pastils you will, stuff up the Perfuming-Trunk, and it will Smoak very sweetly.

Another sort.

LIght five or six Pastils made in Wax-Candles in the bottom of the Per∣fuming Trunk, lay them upon Tiles, and shut up the Trunk.

Another sort.

POUR in a Perfume-Pan, or in a Silver Porringer, Millefleur-water over a Pan of Fire, and when the Water boyls, he Steam of it will perfume Cot∣ton: You may boyl after the same man∣ner Orange-flower-water, pouring in it before three or four drops of Essence of Amber, the Smell will be extraordinary fine.

Page 97

How to Perfume a Room with Smoak.

SHUT all the Windows, light Pastils made in Candles, put them in the corners of the Room near the Hangings, otherwise heat red-hot the Fire-shovel, pour over it some Angel or Millefleur-wa∣ter, or Orange-flower-water, with three drops of Essence of Amber, the Smoak of it will perfume the Room all over.

Another sort.

PUT in a Perfuming-Pan, or Silver Por∣ringer, what sort of Sweet-water you like, lay them over Chafing-dishes of Fire, when the Waters boyl, the Steem of them is very Sweet: You may burn all manner of Pastils upon hot Coals.

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