Letters write [sic] to a friend by the learned and judicious Sir Andrew Balfour ... containing excellent directions and advices for travelling thro' France and Italy, with many curious and judicious remarks and observations made by himself, in his voyages thro' these countreys, published from the author's original m.s.

LETTER III. (Book 3)

CONTAINING Advice for Travelling into ITALY. (Book 3)

Written to a Friend (Book 3)

IT is much better to go into Italy in the latter end of Autumn, than in the Spring; Because the Change of the Air is not so much from one Ex∣treme to another in that Season, as in the other; for the Mildness of the Win∣ter in Italy (especialy upon the South side of the Appennine) doth not so much re∣cede from the Temperatness of Autumn in France, as the Heat of Summer in I∣taly exceeds the Mildness of the Spring in

France. It is certain, that if a Man intend to stay but a half a Year, it is better to begin the Journey in Autumn, and fi∣nish it in the Spring, than to begin in the Spring, and finish it in Autumn, and so be obnoxious to the exces∣sive Heats of Summer. If one intend to stay one or more Years, it is un∣doubtedly best to begin the Journey in Autumn, because the Winter, being much more clement than usually it falls out with us, will be easily supported, & all the Heat that happens in the follow∣ing Summer, in regard it comes by de∣grees, will not so readily affect the Bo∣dy, that hath been already inured to the Air of the climate, for some Time before.

The most convenient way of ma∣king the Toure of Italy, (in my opini∣on) is to go through Provence to Cane, a small inconsiderable Town upon the Frontiers of Provence, and there to hire a Felluck to Genoua, and, if you can∣not get one at Cane, to go to Nize, which is but six or seven Leagues fur∣ther,

where you will be sure to find one; a Felluck is ordinarily of four Oares, and hath this advantage that you go in it Ter' a Terre, that is so near the land, that in the case of any danger by Storm or otherwise, you may easily run on Shoar and escape it, and besides, land as often as there is any Town or other thing worthy the seeing, and likewayes ly a Shoar every Night, at some good Town or other. A Felluck will serve to carrie half a dozen of persons with ease, besides the Rowers: The Price is not fixt but more or less as the Fellucks hap∣pen to be more or fewer in number. Ours cost us about 11 or 12 Crowns, in regard there were but few at Cane, but you may chance to get one for 8, or 9. especially if ye be few in number and not much Baggage; You may provide every morning to take along with you, Wine and what Victuals you please, the rather because sometimes it will happen that you will have no conveniency of any Town about Mid-day, and therefore must Dine aboard Your Fellucke.

The first thing You will meet with, worthy the taking notice of, is Nize, a City belonging to the Duke of Savoy, it lyes near to the Sea syde, at the very foot of the Alps, and hath a very strong Cittadale belonging thereto: some two miles from thence stands Villa Franca, one of the best Ports in Italy, it belongs likewise to the Duke of Savoy, and is guarded with two Castles, one whereof stands on the top of a Rock, upon which growes in great aboundance the Ficus Indica. Some three miles farther upon the Coast stands the Town and Palace of Monaco, or Morgues, It is a Princi∣palitie by it self, and hath very litle land belonging to it: The place is strong standing upon a Rock, which is not ac∣cessible, save at the side where the Palace stands, and where it joynes with the land, all the rest being compassed with the Sea. In the Palace they use to show 1. The Princes Wairdrob, in which there is good store of Silver plate, and other Rich furniture, 2. Severall rooms as Halls, Galleries, Chambers &c. well

furnished with Hangings, Cabinets, Pi∣ctures, &c. 3. A little Garden upon the top of the Rock, behind the Palace, made up of earth brought thither on purpose. At the foot of the Hill near the Town there are store of Carobe Trees, or Siliqua Dulcis, Bauhini in Pinace.

I must not omit to tell You that you must be sure at your first leaving of France in the last Town that You happen to be in, whither it be Cane or any other, to get a Certificate of your health and free∣dome from the Plague, as also of the freedom of that Town. There are persons appointed in every place for giving of such Bills, or Patents de Sainte, as they call them. Their Subscriptions are known to the next Townes about, where you are to go, so that it is not easie to counterfit, and besides it were very dan∣gerous to doe so; They are very scrupu∣lous in this matter upon all the Coast of Liguria, for fear of contagion; So that when you arrive at any Town, before you go a shore, you must send one of your Boat-men, with your Certification to be

shown to such as are appointed for those matters in that Place, who immediately upon the Sight of the Bill permit you, la Practica, that is Libertie to stay in the Town as long as you please, and do what you will. When you part from that, You must take a new Cer∣tificat to the next Place, and so of the Rest untill you come at Ligorn, where this niceness will end.

You must carrie with you no Secret Weapon, as Dagger, Pocket Pistols, or the like: And this is general all o∣ver Italy, except only in the Kingdom of Naples, and States of Venice and Milan, where it is permitted to wear Daggers. At most Towns in Italy, You will be oblidged to leave yonr Hulster-Pistols, and sometimes your Sword with the Guard at the Gate you enter in by: And then they will ask you, by what Gate you are to go out, and ac∣cordingly Your Arms will wait for you, which they will know to be yours, by the delivery of a Nick-stick given You as you enter, and which for that purpose,

You must carefully keep. In most Places, Strangers are permitted to weare their Swords. Your Cloak-Bag like∣ways will be visited at every Town, to to see that there be no Customable Goods in it, and if there be any Books, you must give up a List of them to the Visitor, or Inquisitor appointed for that end, and he will Signe it with Or∣der to let them pass, Providing, there be no Prohibited Book amongst them, For if there were any such, it would be Dangerons; yet there are wayes enough to convey Books, or any other thing of whatsoever Nature, or Quality, from any Sea-port, without any Dan∣ger, which you will easily under∣stand, after your being a while in the Country.

From Monaco you will easily reach Oneglia, which is at about twelve Miles distance, and about 5 Miles further Albenga, from thence you have seven Miles to N••li, & ten more to Savona, from whence there rests five Miles to Genoua,

All the Coast, of Liguria, from Nize to

Genoua, & some days Journey beyond Genoua towards Ligorn, is nothing but rude Alps, for the most part infertile and unhabitable, except towards the Bottom near the Sea, where there are little Smal Valleys here and there, both deli∣cious and Fruitfull. For the rest it is wonderfull to see with what industry & trouble, they have been able to place little smal Villages, as it were in the Clefts of the Hills, and Plant Olive Trees, where one would think nothing but crows could venture to Big. All this Tract is extreamly hot, especially in Summer, being directly opposit to the South, and altogether guarded from the North, So that the reflection of the Sun beames, makes a Heat almost in∣supportable.

Genoua la Superba, so called from the sumptuousness of its Buildings, and so they use to give other epithets to other Towns, as Roma la Sane∣ta, Fiorenza la Bella, Bolognia la Grassa, Padua la Dotta, Venetia la Rieta, &c. It is said that Genoua has Montagnie senza legno, Mare senze pesce, Donne senza Vergonia,

& Gente senza sede. It is a Republick & the Government administred by a Senate. It is a City of great Trade and very Rich, and it is said they account usury no great Sin: It being their Maxim, that Cento per Cento e Niente, Cento Cinquanto per Cinto e quelcha cosa, du Cento per Cento e quadagnio Hone••io. You may take notice in the Place; First, of the Situa∣tion of the Town, and so you may Her∣barize towards the West-side. 2ly. The Senate House, 3ly. The Churches, and particularly that of St. Lorenzo, which is the Cathedrall, a Stately Fa∣brick Crusted with Marble. 4ly. That famous Street, called la Strada Nova, which is composed of so many Palaces, most of them of Marble: you must by all means endeavour to see the most con∣siderable Palaces. Within you will find them most delicatly Adorned with all sorts of fine Things, as Statues, Paintings, &c. You must also see their Gardens, where besides severall sorts of Flowers, Shrubs, and Trees, you will likeways

find delicat Fountains, Fish-ponds, and Grotto's; as particularly in the Palace of the Principe d'Oria; I would likeways have you see the Palace of Signior Baldi, and some other Houses of Pleasure espe∣cially towards the Sea-port, where they stand at the foot of the Hill over look∣ing one another as they mount in de∣grees in form of a Theatre, and all of them having a full view of the Sea-port, which is very spacious and very deep; but in my Opinion, not so very well guarded from stormes. That which I find most considerable in it is, the Mole, which secures the entrie thereof, it being the best and strongest and in the deepest Water I ever saw. At the east end of the port there is a litle Promontory called Capo de Fara, upon which stands a High Turret, which they call la Lanternâ, from the Top whereof they use to disco∣ver all Vessells at Sea at a considerable distance. 5ly. Forget not to visit the Book-Sellers, but in Regard this is a generall Remark not to be omited, in every Town where there any, I shall

say no more of it here, but shall put You in mind of it now and then.

From Genoua You must again provide Your self of a Felluck to Ligorn, which you will find readier and at an easier rate, because of the more frequent Traffick and intercourse, than from Cane or Nize, you will pass by Porta Fino, Leresi, Viare∣gia, &c. and you wil not find many things considerable more than I have already noted on the Coasts of Liguria betwixt Genoua and Nize, except that when ye pass Leresi a litle, you begin to discover a large plain, part of which belongs to the state of Genoua, and therein are the Quarries that furnish all Italy with the best Marble, and the rest is the Principa∣lity of Massa; For the better seeing of which if you please you may go from Genoua by Horse to Ligorne.

Tuscany begins about Viaregia, the greatest part whereof is under the Do∣minion of the Great Duke of Tuscany.

Ligorn is no antient, but yet a very Handsom and well built City, by Fer∣dinand the first, Great DUKE of Tuscany, of whom you will see a most

stately Statue or rather Colosse, with slaves Chain'd at his Feet, on each side kneeling; a litle without the Gate as you go to the Sea-Port. The Town is regularly fortified, they say, by the con∣trivance of the Duke of Northumberland, who was banished out of England in the Reign of Queen Eli••abeth, and well receaved and much esteemed by the then Duke of Tuscany, for his excellent parts and Qualifications. The Duke for in∣couragment of Trade hath granted great Immunities to Merchants of all Nations whatsomever, which is the great cause that the Town flourishes so much in Trade, and is so well Peopled: Severall Nations have established great Factories here, but especialy the English and Hollanders who have made this place, as it were the staple of all their commerce into the Levant. The Jews also have a very great freedome here and are not distinguished by any particular Mark, as in other places, from other Merchants, but live Honourably in a particular Street of the Town, built by them∣selves,

yet not sequestrated from the rest of the Town by any Wall or Gate, as they use to be in all other places, where I have seen them. The English Merchants live very splendidly, and are very hospitable and courteous, especially, to their Countrymen, that Travell that way, under which name they comprehend all that are Subject to our King: The Jews Synagogue here is the best in Italy; and therefore wor∣thy your seeing. They observe our Sa∣turnday, so that if You please to stay, You may see their form of Worship. You must take particular notice of the Sea-Port, which is undoubtedly the most secure and finest in all Italy, in which You will see the great Dukes Gallies, which he kee••s for a Guard, to his Coun∣trey against the Turks men of War. It is worth the while to see a Gallie put out to Sea, or, as she comes in, for so one may see the Discipline of the Slaves to whom the Bosson delivers the word of Command by the noise of a Whisle, the diversitie whereof they are as well

acquainted with, as Horse-men with a Trumper, or foot with a Drum. If You be diligent You may meet with se∣verall curiosities, some naturall, some of Art, especially from the Levant, and all at reasonable Rates: and for the more commodious doing of this, it will be fit∣ting to make acquaintance with severall Merchants, especially English, who will either inform You themselves, where such things are to be found, or else ad∣dress You to such Persons in the Town, as may best hap to do it. It is like∣ways necessary for You to have such ac∣quaintance, and amongst them some one confident for returning You Mo∣ney from England, or at least for retur∣ning You, what Money You have not present Use for, to Florence, as also for keping correspondence with; that by this means, You may send any thing you please to Your confident at London. And because this advice may be usefull in ma∣ny other Places; I shall be more par∣ticular in it here for all. I suppose then You were to send any little Ball for Trunk from Ligorne to London; Your

way would be first to pass it at the Cu∣stom house, where, I think Books, and curiosities pay nothing but yet You must have an Order for Shipping of them, then You must agree with some English Master of a Ship, bound for London, for the portage, and accordingly draw a Bill of Loading—which is of a common Stile bearing, that such a Ball or Coffer marked,—(and sometimes it says, marked as on the Margen, and then the Mark whether it be Letters or Figures or both, which is put upon the Goods, is like∣ways placed upon the Margen of the Bill) is imbarked This—Day of—and Year of God—aboard the good Ship called—now in the Port of Ligorn, and bound for London, whereof Mr:—under God is Master, the which Ball is consign∣able at London to Mr—Merchant &c. or bis Order, for which he is to Pay— English Mony, he receiving the said Ball well conditioned, without Skaith or Da∣mage, There must be three Copies of this Bill, one You must subscribe, and give to the Master of the Ship, for 〈◊〉〈◊〉

Warrand to carrie his Fraught. The other two he must subscribe and give to You, whereof You must send one by Post with a particular Letter of advice, to Your correspondent at London, to war∣rand him to call for the Goods, at the Master of the Ship; and the other You must keep by You for Your own securi∣ty, in case there should be any miscarri∣age, either through the Skipper, or Mer∣chants fault, and then Your Goods may be imbarked. If You were to send from Florence, then you must in the like man∣ner pass your Goods at the Custom∣house; if there be any Books among them, You must have a particular Li∣cence as I Noted formerly, and then cause unball them at the Custom-house, and set your Mark upon them, and find out some Boat going for Ligorn, (which you will be sure to do,) and take a Note under the Boat-Masters hand of the recept of such Goods so marked, consignable to such a Ma••n Merchant in Ligorn, for which he is to pay so much Fraught, he receiving the Goods

well conditioned. This Note you must send by the Post to your Merchant in Ligorn, together with Your acquittance at the Custom house of Florence, which will serve to acquit them at Ligorn; to∣gether also with particular advice to dis∣patch them by the first good occasion for London, and to take Bills of Loading for them, whereof you must desire one Copie to be sent to your self, which you must keep for your Security, as said is; From Rome you must use the same conveyance to Ligorn: But from Venice you must address immediately for Lon∣don, and in the same manner as from Ligorn. If you be to send any thing o∣ver Land, where you go not along your self, you must make two Letters of Voiture (having first agreed for the car∣riage at the Rate of so much per Cent.) whereof you must give one to the car∣rier, which is a kind of advice to the Person you address your Goods to, which is in this form: suppose from Turine to Lions, you write thus,

Sir

I have sent a Bundel marked—by—

Indweller in this Town, and Carrier to Lions, addressed to You, which I desire you would be pleased to receive, and being in good condition, Pay for it at the Rate of—per Cent. and I shall hold you account thereof, or otherways place it to the account of—at Paris, to whom I desire you to ad∣dress the Bundell and send it with the first good Occasion, and I shall be Accountable to him. The carrier will part from hence, such a Day being the—Day of—and will arrive at Lions the—Day thereafter, the Bundell contains no Merchant Goods, being only Books, &c. for my own Privat use and therefore not Customable I rest.

SIR,

Yours &c.

THe other Letter of Voiture is an Obligation under the car∣riers hand to You, which you must send by the Post to your correspondent at Li∣ons. The Form of it ought to be as follows.

I Vnder Subscribed Carrier of Tu∣rin, acknowledge to have received from—the—Day of—at Turin a Bundell Marked—Weighing—addressed to—Merchant of Lions to whom I promise to deliver it in good condition at Lions, (with the help of God) or to his Order, he pay∣ing me at the Rate of—per Cent. therefore. In witness whereof I have subscribed their presents with my hand at Turin the—Day of—Anno—

I Have been the more particular in these things, because altho' they may seem to be triffles, to those that are conver∣sant in such matters, yet a small mistake, may be the occasion of a great Miscar∣riage. I shall now return to put You in mind of some other particulars, and 1. That in this Place, Oisters are a ve∣ry great Delicat, there being but one person that has Priviledge to sell them, for which he payes a considerable Sum

to the great Duke; I know not well from whence they are brought, but I am sure it is from a considerable Distance: They are keept in the Town-Ditch, on the East side of the Town, which is full of salt water, because it hath communion with the Sea; the keeper hath a little House hard by, and accor∣ding to the number Bargained for, takes them alive & very fat out of the Ditch, & sells them at the Rate of a Pistole the Hundred. They are many times put into the Ditch little, and keept untill they be big enough, they taste very well, and are by far the best in Italy. 2. To the East-ward of the Town, about a Mile or little more, there is an Hill called Monte Nero, upon which there is good harbarizing. You will do well to take a Horse and a Guide with you to the Place. From Ligorn you have 15 Miles of Smooth and Plain way to

Pisa. It is an Ancient City, some∣times a common-wealth by it self, and then both Rich and populous: But since it was Reduced under the command of

the great Duke of Tuscany, it is neither of the two; the far greater part of the Inhabitants, after the Town was Re∣duced, chusing rather to abandon their Native Country, than their Liberty, or at least preferring a voluntar Subjection abroad, to a necessitated Slavery at home. The City is large and Beautifull, divided, as it were in two by the River Arno, and again conjoyned by a beautifull Bridge, of white Marble. The Air of this Place, in Winter, is judged to be more Tempe∣rate than that at Florence, & therefore the great Duke uses to pass the Winter here. There are many things considerable in this Town; as, 1st. The great Church, which is a Stately Fabrick, and well a∣dorned within, as also the Batistaria whereof the Doores, as also of the great Church, are all covered with Massive Brass, cast into delicat Figures. 2ly. The crooked Steeple, which leanes to one side very far from the perpendicular; some people alledge it was purposely so built, but I am more apt to beleeve that the ground hath miss-given on the one side

by little and little, or rather insensibly, which may be some part of the Reason, why it hath hung together so long with∣out falling, to which the excellencie of the Cement and Workman-ship hath contributed very much; my opinion, to one that narrowly observes, will not appear to be unreasonable, for the out∣side is of so many Rows of small Pillars going round about, and the lower-most Row, on that side that it leanes to, is more than half hid in the ground, where as those of the other are wholy to be seen; which I suppose could not have happened otherways, than as I have said. 3ly. The Buriall Place, which is the most stately I ever saw, being a long quadrangle, well walled and galleried about, in the midle whereof are very many Monuments of great antiquity, of many of the ancient noble Families of Pisa. They are most of them of white Marble in shape like a Coffine, wherein the Body of the Dead persons was laid: Some of them are carved in one Fa∣shion and some of them in another, and

some of them into excellent Figures. 4ly The Dukes Palace. 5ly. The Physical Garden, together with the Rarities that are keept in a Gallery belonging to the Garden, where you will see a very great Collection of Natural Curiosities. The Garden uses to have very rare exotick Plants; but in regard you can have no access to it, except by the recommen∣dation of the Physitian, that is Pro∣fessor of Botany for the time, therefore I think it will be worth your while to make your address to him, for a Liber∣tie, first, to see the Garden and Gallery; secondly, to get from the Gardener or himself, the Seeds, of such as you have a mind to, and a Peece of the Plant for drying, if you think fitting; you must not be negligent here, for this is one of the best Gardens in Italy, & in my opini∣on preferable to that of Padua, especi∣ally for exotick Plants. The Universi∣ty, for the whole Estate of Tuscany, is keep'd here, and if you please you may see the Schooles for all Professions, and particularly that for the Lawes, where

the most renowned Bartholus did teach. Amongst the Booksellers you may find something to accommodat you, be∣cause it is an University Town, and I shall tell you here, because I do not re∣member to have it done as yet, that, generally speaking, all sort of Books in Italy, are cheaper than in any other place where I have been. I pray You re∣member to get a Couple of the Cata∣logues of the Garden there, of the last Edition.

From Pisa, You have but a small half days Journey, of very pleasant Way, to Luca, which is a Delicat little Town, a Republick by it self, and having but a very small Territory belonging to it; it is well and regularly fortified with a dry Ditch, which is keept very cleane and in good Order, and allways Green: the Republick is governed by a Prince or Chief Magistrat, whom they choose of their own Town, and change him e∣very two Month: So soon as any one is chosen, he must leave his own House and Friends, and retire himself to the

Publick Palace, where he is assisted by some other of the Nobles, & cannot come out untill his Government be finished.

The Humour of the people is Chear∣full and very Civil, and contrary to the Custome of all Italy, Men and Women converse freely amongst themselves or with Strangers. They use Balls & Dance∣ing, much after the French Fashion; The Religious people use to distill Spirits and Essences, whereof you may provide what Quantitie you please, both good, and good cheap, I wish you might help a Friend to some of Orange-Flowers and Myrtles; The religious Women likeways use to make very prettie Things, and particularly I remember they use to sell Stomagers of quilted Silk, which most people use to wear in the Winter-time, of one Fashion or an∣other.

From Luca, if you please, you may go to Pisloia, and so to Florence, or o∣therways returne to Pisa, and from thence, either by Coach or Horse, to Flo∣rene. If the Weather be not too hot, it

is better to go on Horse-back, in regard of the prospect of the Countrie, which cannot be had in a Coach. Florence is a new Town, but one of the most beau∣tifull in all Italy, and therefore called Fioren•• a la Bella; it is situated upon the River Arno, which divides it in two sev••∣rall places, over which stands four fair Bridges. The City is Counted at least six miles in Compass; The Beautie of it consistes in the Stateliness of the Buil∣dings, the great number of Palaces, the neateness and cleannesse of the Streets, occasioned by the largeness and smooth∣nes of the Stones, with which it is paved; the many large Places, Fountains, Statues, Churches, Towers, Convents & Gardens; Of all which it hath very many of the best in Italy. There is scarce any thing in this City; which is not very well wor∣thie to be taken notice of▪ but particu∣larly. 1. The Dukes two Palaces, the Old and the New; In the new the great Duke himself keeps his Court. It is a ••ost magnificent Structure, o•• the T••scan Order of Architecture, but not finished

as yet; The Garden belonging thereto is very well furnished, with Rare Plants and Flowers; of which the Catalogue is Printed, of which I desire You to bring alongs a Couple of Copies. It will not be a miss to make Acquaintance with the Gardener; for, so you will get what Seeds you please. The old Palace stands in the great Place of the City, in the midle of which Place there is a Stately Colossus of Brass, of Cosmus great Duke of Florence a Horse back, by the Model whereof that of Henry the great upon the new Bridge of Paris was made. Near to the Entrie into the Palace there are severall other Noble Statues of Mar∣ble: within the Palace it self is that so much famed, over the World, Gallerie, which is composed of many Roomes, containing great Varietie of the choisest Curiosities; as Sta••ues, Busta's, Base∣relieues, Paintings, Drawings, Prints, Cabinets, Jewels, Cameo's, Intaillia's, with all sorts of Anticailles, with an infinite number of Master-peeces of lat∣ter times. Amongst other things, there

is a Chamber or two full of all sorts of Armes, amongst which those of Charles the Great and Roland, with severall Swords of Henry the great, also a great Number of Cymiters, some whereof have their Scabbards set with Rubies, Eme∣ralds, and other precious Stones. There is an ancient Buckler with a Medusa's Head, Painted by Michael Angelo bona rota. I remember to have observed some ancient Casaques, whose weight I am confident no Head could sustain, unless so adjusted to the rest of the Armour, and that to the Sadle, that the Horse must have carried all. You must en∣deavour to get a Writen Inventure of the severall Curiosities in the Gallerie, for without that it is not possible to re∣member every particular; Within this Palace, the great Duke uses to keep the most excellent Artisans he can meet with, of all Trades, to whom he gives consi∣derable Salaries and Priviledges, whom you will do well to see, but especially the Stone-Cutters, of whose Art I intreat you to take particular notice, and what

Instruments they use, and learne at least as much of it as may serve to polish Stones. Amongst other Curiosities of this Trade, You may see a New way of Mosaick Work, wherein the figure is compleated most delicatly, both as to the parts and Colours thereof, by the Natural Colours of the severall peeces of Stones assembled together; and which is strange, all the lights and shadows re∣quisite in Painting is herein observed; So that they can imitate Nature allmost as fully this way as in Painting it self. This way differs from the old Mosaick, in that the particular Peeces that com∣pose it, are of different Figures accord∣ing as the colours require; for example, a Cherrie because it is all of one Co∣lour, therefore it may be represented by a Red stone of a round Figure in one Peece, but the Stalk of it must be of an other different figure: But in the old way, all the peeces were Quadrangular, whatsoever might be the colour or thing to be represented, and of this kind of Mosaick you will see a most excellent

Peece in St. Peters Church at Rome, re∣presenting St. Michael the Arch-Angel treading upon the Devil. In this Pa∣lace likeways, the great Duke keeps a Chymical Laboratorie, called la Fun∣deria, wherein are made very many notable preparations with great Faith∣fullness, especially Spirits and Essences, which may be bought here at reaso∣nable Rates, and without fear of being cheated, as to the goodnes of the things, 2ly. Severall Churches and Convents, particularly the Dome the out-side whereof is the most beautifull in Europe, being all crusted with Black. White and Red Marble, fit••y placed together in regular figures. The Church with∣in is Paved with black and white Mar∣ble, and Richly adorned with Cha∣pels and Altars; The Cupola is very Large and Fine insomuch that the Golden Ball upon the Top of it, which is able to contain a great many Persons, does not appear from the Ground to be bigger than a good Foot-Bal; Near to the Dome stands Jota's Towre, one of the most

admirable Peeces of Architecture, in the World; being a square Steeple, without any spite on the Top of it, all crusted with black, white and red Marble, in most regular figures from the top to the bottom; near to it stands the round Chapel of St. John delicately payed with Marble, and adorned with statues, with a Rich Vase adorned with precious Stones, wherein the Children are Bap∣tised. The Doors of the Chapel are of Brass, all in Figures of personage in Base-relieve of most admirable Work∣manship; in this Chapel is the Sepulchre of Jota, that renown'd Painter and Ar∣chitect, upon whom there are some ex∣cellent Latin verses there ingraven, which I have lost, but ••o••mend to you to take a Copie thereof. In the Church of St. Spirito; there is an Altar ha••cost above a Hundred Thousand Crowns, which were left by a Florentin Gen∣tleman for that effect. In the Church de Sancta Cr••ce, (I h••ve ••orgot whether i•• belongs to the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 or Ja••o∣bi••••;) Michael Ang••••o bona rota i•• in∣terred,

and it is said at his own desire, that he might lye within the View of Jota's Towre, which he did so much admire in his lifetime; Upon his Tome there are three most delicate Statues, the one represents Painting; the second, Sculp∣ture; the third Architecture: in which three Arts, he was so great a Master. St. Laurence Church was magnificently built by Cosmo de Medicis, whose Scpul∣chre is to be seen there. There is that famous Chapel, which the Dukes con∣tinually Labour to Finish. It is the most Glorious thing extant in the World, there being already bestowed upon the Workman-ship thereof above eight Millions of Gold, and I beleeve a con∣siderable deal more will not perfect it. It is not very large, but built round; it is all Mosaik, both the Floore, roofe and sides; and the least considerable Stones that compose it, are Jasper, Porphir, Ala∣baster, Lapis Lazuli &c. there are seve∣rall nests in the Wall about, where the statues of the Dukes are to stand as they lived and succeeded to the another. The

Great Altar is not yet set up, because of peoples being still at work in the Chapel, nor is it yet altogether finished, but yet there is so much done, that to look upon it, one should hardly think there were any thing wanting. It is keept in the Dukes Wardrobe in the Old Palace, of which I forgot to speake formerly, and there∣fore tell You now that it is one part of the old Palace which You must not faile to see, there being in it a vast Treasure of Silver and Gold Plate, with many other Precious things. The Altar is keept in a little Room by it self, I shall not under-take to descrive it particularly, but only desire You to consider well every part of it, the Richness of the Materials and excellencie of the Workemanship, the Mosaicks, and the Christall Pillars, and I believe You will easily excuse my holding by the general, and omitting to speak of particulars: I do truely think that the beauties and excellencies of this Chapel and Altar, are so great and so many, that they Deserve a Particular Book to make them known to the world,

and it may be there is some such work intended, or alreadie extant, which if it be I am confident You will take care to have it.

I must give You notice in this Place, that You will doe well to Treat with some of those men that Work about the Chapel, or else with some of those stone-cutters in the Gallery for some small Peeces of all the species of stones; let them be of such a Bigness as may easily serve to know them by. I make no doubt but You may get them at a Reasonable Rate. But I must earnestly intreat You to mind those two Species of stones which are found in Quarries not farr from Florence, whereof the one Naturally represents Townes and Landscapes, the other is some what Whiter, and has Trees and Forrests Represented on it, by little Black Draughts; I remember to have shown you a small Peice of each sort, but now I would have, two or three larger Peeces of both the sorts, of about a span-Length, and of the best Marked, for I intend to put them in frames, as a Cheif ornament of my

Tradescants. I shall hold You compt for the price. 3. The Place where the wild Beasts are keept. It is a long square Peece of ground Walled about, and galleried on the Top for Spectators; under the gal∣leries are litle cells that open to the Place, in each of which there is keept a severall Wild Beast, such as Lyons, Tygers, Leo∣pards, Woolfs, Beares, &c. These have their keeper that waits upon them, and Feeds them, and when the great Duke commands, they are brought out, one or more, as he Pleases, and bated with Dogs, or otherwise set to fight with one another, Upon such occasions strangers are Permitted to see. 4. The Book-sellers; of which there are prettie store here and those well furnished too. You cannot miss of a Casalpinus de Plantis or two, for it was Printed in this Place. If You can get his appendix ad libros de Plantis, You will oblidge me to bring it with You; it was Printed by it self at Rome. You may possibly meet with other good Books, for it is ordinar when Learned men die▪ for Book-Sellers to buy

their Books. I must likeways put You in mind to buy a Printed Paper for me, that was Published at Florence, called Testis examinatus; it containes two or three figures of the Testicles with a short Description thereof, in one single leaf.

There is one Dr. Kirton Dr. of Phy∣sick, He is a very civill and obligeing Gentleman; If he be yet alive he will be Your Interpreter: and if You need not that, he will help You to expede the rest of Your affairs; in short, both his coun∣sell and his company are to be esteemed; He is an English Man born, low in stature and prettie ancient.

You must not faill in this Place to take notice, of the variety of Fruits, & Wines; as the Red Florence Wine, which is counted the best for ordinar Drinking, being stomachical and without Sweetnes. The White Florence Wine, which is Sweet; Verdea, which is delicious small Sweet white Wine; Monte Pulciano, White and Red, both very good Wines, so called from the Place they grow upon, and many more such.

If You happen to be here in the Sum∣mer time, especially when the Grapes are Ripe, You will find in the Markets great Varietie of Fowles and small Birds, where∣of I intreat You to take notice, but espe∣cially of those kinds, that are not common with us, and try to get their Skins, which may be easily done, when the bird hath not been long Dead; the rump must be left at it for preserving of the Taile; The Head, Wings and Feet must be like∣wise left, and only tbe body taken out, & so the Skin filled with Flax or Cotton. This I intreat You to remember to doe wheresoever You shall happen to be in the Summer time, and if any such occasion Present it self to You in Winter, not to ommit it.

From Florence to Rome You have 140. Miles; there are severall wayes of Tra∣velling, viz. by Coach, by Procaccio or Messenger with whom you agree for so much; as is usuall in France: and by the Viturin, that is, by hyring of Horse at a certain Rate, & Paying for Your own entertainment at every part as you pass.

If you be acquainted with the customes of the Countrey, and have Language enough to make Your self understood, this last way is the best, because you will be sure to fare better, and cost you no more, than you would otherwise Pay to the Messenger, who will be sure to pro∣vide the worst chear for you, that he may make the better for himself: in short, it is best to be Master of your own Purse, and not live at the discretion of Your Conductor. I have forgot hitherto to tell you that there is some Incommoditie for Travellers upon the Road, as to their Bedding, their Cloaths espiecially, the Sheets being for the most part very nasty, and it is but now and then that either money or fair words can procure a Pair of clean Sheets. The best remedy I know is not to put off ones Cloaths, and to wrap ones self, especialy the Head, in their Cloak, that the face and Hands may not touch any unclean thing; in short a litle Patience will do it, and you will be sure to be better accomodated in good Towns.

The places You are to pass by, are Cheifly these as follows.

FLORENCE.

• S. Casciano 9 Miles
• Le Tavernelle 8 Miles
• Pogibonzo 5 Miles
• Staggia 4 Miles
• Siena 9 Miles
• Montarone 5 Miles
• Lucignano 3 Miles
• Bonconvento 5 Miles
• Tornieri 5 Miles
• S. Quirie 4 Miles
• La Scala 4 Miles
• Ricorso 4 Miles
• La Paglia 5 Miles
• Ponte Centino 9 Miles
• Acquapendente 2 Miles
• S. Lorenzo 3 Miles
• Bolsena 4 Miles
• Montefiascone 6 Miles
• Viterbo 8 Miles
• Ronciglione 10 Miles
• Monterosi 8 Miles
• Roma 20 Miles

There are not many considerable things to be seen upon this Road; Siena was a re∣publick by itself, but was reduced by the Emperour Charles the 5th. and by his Son Philip Gifted to the Great Duke of Tus∣cany, under whose Power it still Remains. The Town is of a good bigness, and com∣mended for it's Situation, and the purity of the Italian Tongue. The Dome or great Church is a statly Fabrick; it is Paved with Marble, but especialy the Quire, upon which is most Curiously Graven the Hi∣story of Abraham Sacrificeing his Son, and History of the Maccabees, and for the better Preservation of them they are co∣vered with Matts. There is likewise an entrie from the Church to the Biblio∣theck of Aeneas Sylvius, who was born in this Town. He was once Legat from the Pope into Scotland, and afterwards Cre∣ated Pope himself, and took the name of Pius Secundus. He was a Man of great Learning. The late Pope Alexander VII. was Native of this Place, of the Family of Chigi; his Statue is to be seen in the great Church. The greatest Part of the

and the Towre belonging to it are of Black and White Marble without. In the Church of St. Dominic, amongst other Relicts, is preserved the Head of St. Catharine of Siena. The Tovvne is well watered with many fine Fountains. The great place is made with a kind of Descent Theatre ways, so that from the middle of the Place You may see all that walk in it. Montefiascone is famous for a most Delicious Kind of Muscatello Wine, which You must be sure to Tast. The Messenger uses to Dine without the Town, but you will be sure to fare better and get better Wine with∣in; There goes a storie that a German killed himself in this Place with Drinking excessivly of this Muscat. As you goe from thence to Viterbo you will find a kind of Aspalathus, which I take to be Acacia altera Angularae. It growes as high as our Broom, and is plentifull enough, so that you will easily discover it.

From Viterbo, all that distance to Rome is called the Campania of Rome, in which it is thought most dangerous to sleep in

the Summer time, therefore if you fortune to travel it in Summer, whither to Rome or from it (the same is under stood of 40. Miles distance round about Rome) you must be sure not to sleep in the Cam∣pania, which you may easily avoid by Travelling in the night. when you arrive at Rome you must give up your name at the Port; your Countrey, the Place from which ••ou came last, and the house you goe to Lodge at: and from thence you must go a la dogano, or to the Custom House, where your Cloakbag must be Searched, and from thence to your lodg∣••ng place, according to the Billet given ••ou at the Port, without which no House ••eeper dare receave a stranger; But they ••re things of Course and effectuat with∣out any trouble. You will doe well to Lodge in a Pension for the first week, un∣till you have made some acquaintance, by means whereof you may be fullie infor∣med where to light upon a convenient Camera locanda: There was two French Pensions, and one English in my time. The first of the French was Al monte d'oro. The second was nella strada del Populo

The English pension was in the same stra∣da del Populo, alla villa di Londra: we had severall Countrey men living in the Town in my time, as particularly signior Roberto Pendrick, a worthie old Gentle∣man, and most obligeing to his Count∣rey men, he was my particular good friend; and I make no doubt but you will find him so, for I hear he is still alive, and I wish he may be long so. He lives in a House of his own upon the Triuita di monte. There is an other called Signior don Gulielmo Lesly, He is Chaplain to Car∣dinal Carlo Barberino and lives nella Can∣cellaria. I dare be confident to give you this man for one of the most faithfull Friends in the World, and one in whose goodness, prudence, Kindness, and good Conduct you may trust ten Thousand Lives: to be short you will find I am not mistaken, when I call him deliciae huma∣ni generis, for in all my lifetime I never knew another like him, make it their whole work and study to find opportu∣nities to oblige every Countrey-man ac∣cording to his condition: The p••••r of

them, with Food and Rayment and what∣soever else they may stand in need of, and all other men with continual offices of ci∣vility. By his means you will get to see many of these things I shall recommend to you hereafter. If I Know of your going to Italy in time, I shall have a Letter there before you. Your best convenience for Lodging and Diet will be a Camera Lo∣canda. You may take it in that place of the town that suits best with your occasi∣ons, you will pay for it by the month, less or more according to the goodness of the Chamber and furniture thereof. As for your diet it will be drest in the House, and you must tell at night what you In∣tend to eat next day, that they may pro∣vide it for you: As for the prices you can∣not be easily Cheated, because as to that, most things are Regulated, And in the quantitie it is not possible you should be overreached because all things are sold by weight. There are severall Kinds of Bread used in this City, but that which is called Papaline is undoubtedly the best. There are likewise many sorts of Wines,

some of them Galliardi or strong, as Greco, Muscatello di Saragosa, Lagrima &c. others are Legieri, or small, and they are many; the best for common use is Albano, which You may drink pure: and it is re∣markable that there are but few places in Italy where Water may be Drunk safe∣ly, and because one may be mistaken in the choise, the best remedy is to Drink none at all. There are great variety of fruits according to the Seasons of the year, I shal only desire you to be cautious, and not to eat too much or too often of any, but especialy, of Melons, Cucumbers, and the Malanzane, or mala insana, which are a Kind of Solanum Pomiferum. There are good store and Many Kinds of Fishes, especialy Sea Fish, whereof the best are, Sols, il Pisce Capone &c. The Tunino is a great Fish as big as our Salmond, and Red like it, but harder and dryer a great deale, the bellie of it is verie fatt and they use to Salt and sell it in the Taverns, be∣ing sliced in small peeces upon a Trencher; Fresh Sturgeon is very common; Lobsters are much harder and worse to disgest

than ours: as for fleshes, Bufalo is only eaten by the Poorer sort of people; Beif which they call Vacina is good; Vitella campo reccia, or Hudron is good, but above all the Vitella mongana or sucking Veal. Lamb is worth nothing, nor Mutton either, which they call Castrato, and serves only to make Broath for Sick Peo∣ple; Kids are good. In the Winter-time there is is abundance of Sangliers or wild Boars, as also Porcepics. The Snow in that season, driving them from the Hills to the Valleys, where they are Killed by the Hunters. There is likeways great Varie∣ty of Fowl. There is none so common as Quailes, at two seasons of the year, that is, the Spring when they come into Italy, and the latter end of Autumn, at which time they are much fatter and better when they go from it. It is said that they draw together to the Coast side, and there wait for the rest of their number a whole Moneth, and then at last, their Caravan being complete, they flee away nearer the Sunn in a great cloud. The Pigione Sotto hanca are the biggest and

fattest, and best for eating in the world: they are good in all seasons of the year. About the time of Vintage there are great Variety of small Birds, all very fatt & good, and at easie Rates, amongst which the Ortolani, and Beccafiche are most esteemed.

As for the things to be seen here, they are so many, and so considerable, that it would require a large Volume to de∣scribe them, and there are abundance of such Books extant, to which I referr you, and especially to one in 80. called L' Antichita di Roma di Andrea Fulvio: but you must not fail to get an Anti∣quario, who for a certain Summ of two or three Crowns will show you all the particular Antiquities and considerable places of the Town, and as for the fuller information of them your Book will serve you: I shall only hint at some∣things worthie to be taken notice of; 1. The Court; that is, the Pope, Cardinals, Prelates, Monsigniorie &c. There are some great Holy days, when the Pope Celebrats Mass in person; it will be sit to

wait upon some of these occasions, for then you will see the Grandeur of the Court and the forme of a Cavalcata, together with the Popes ordinary Guards. 2. The Churches. 3. The Palaces; espe∣cially those of the Vatican, together with the Bibliotheck and Gardens of Belvidere, in which amongst other things take par∣ticular notice of the statue of Ly••aon with the Serpents wreathed about him; There is an other Garden also belonging to the Vatican, in which there are many exo∣tick Plants, it was planted by the Popes or∣der, by Tobias Aldinus and is Keept still in reasonable good order; amongst other things you will find the Cameripses, or Camedactylus, of the bigness of a Low Tree and carrying Fruit; there is like∣wise a Grotta or water work, and very fine Fountains of water, about which grows plentifully the Capillus veneris Major or Ramosus. and Arum Aegypti∣um Mathioli, sive Colocasia, which is a plant carying no stalk, flowr nor fruit in Italy (I know not what it does in its native Soyle) but only broad Leaves very large and round.

The Palace of Farnese; and in it that Gallery whereof the Painting in Fresco by Aniball Caraccio is so famous, and the Tauro which is kept in a little House a part, in the back court of the Palace. It is the noblest piece of Art extant in Rome altho it be very antient, as being one of those named by Pliny, to have been in his time in Foro Trajani; yet it is not only intire, but as beautifull as if it had never been moved out of the place it stands in now.

The Palace of Principe Pamphilio; it stands in the Piazza Navona, where you may take notice of that Glorious Fountain made by Cavelier Bernini, whereupon the top of a little artificial Rock, are placed, four great delicate Marble Statues, representing the foure great Rivers of the World, and each of them pouring out of a Vale placed under one Arme, a great quantitie of Water, and in the middle of the four there stands one of these Gulias graven with Aegypti∣an Hieroglyphicks, brought from A••gypt by the Antient Romans. They use to

stop the way-goe of the Water, some∣times in the Summer, and lett the Place overflow with Water, and then Peo∣ple come toward the evening, in their Coaches, and drive softly up and down the water to take the fresco, which is one of the greatest Gusto's in Rome.

Palazzo Borghese, Standing near to the Ripetta. Palazza Palistrino; and in it the library, where you may see two copies of the Hortus Eystetensis, one illuminated and the other not; Mr. Lesty will command you a sight of that when you please, for it belongs to Car∣dinall Francisco Barberino.

The Popes Palace of Monte Cavallo, and the Gardens thereof. 4. The Villa's: as first that of Borghese, which is with∣out the walls: there is a particular Book to be sold by the House keeper, that sufficiently descrives it and all the beau∣ties of it, to which I Refer you. 2ly. the villa or Palazzo medici, belonging to the great Duke of Tuscany. It stands upon the monte Trinita, the Hall is ador∣ned with a great many Pillars stand∣ing

about the Walls, of most delicat Marbles, and the Originalls of a great many Illustres and virtuosi. In one of the Chambers there is a most beautifull statue of Venus, of Grecian Antiquitie. In the Garden there is a Noble statue of Cleopatra, the Ruins whereof were repar∣ed by Michaell Angelo bona rota, and many other statues Base Releiv's and Vases, which for Brevities sake I must omit, and refer you to the particular Books that treat of those things, But most of all to your own diligence in viewing them and keeping a punctuall Register of all that you see, and so I shall only name some of the Villa's that remain, and are most considerable. As the Villa Montalto; The Villa Ludo∣visi, where amongst other Admirable things the statue of the dying Gladi∣ator is excellent. The Villa Farnesi; The Villa Pamphilio, which is a pretie way without the walls, and the rest which I leave to your sight.

5ly. The Castle of St. Angelo, which formerly was the Burial Place of Hadrian

the Emperor. 6. The Hospitalls; Parti∣cularly that of St. Spirito, which is a most magnificent Structure, and well ap∣pointed in all things. They will show you amongst other remarkable things, the Place where the Children of such a Big∣ness are permitted to be put in, without any further inquirie made after them, or who brought them. By this means the Life of many a Child hath ben saved, which otherways would have been taken away to prevent the dis∣grace of the Parents. They are no soo∣ner put in, but Nurses are got for them: If they be Boyes, when they come to a convenient Age they are put to Trades, according ro their several Inclinations and Capacities. But if they be Girles, then when they come to the Years of discretion, if they incline not to a Religi∣ous Life, every one of them is provided with so much Portion to Marry her with, out of the common revenue of the House; And then upon a certain Day appointed for that purpose; all Zitelle or maids come in Procession, one after ano∣ther,

with their Faces Vail'd, and the Men that come there upon such Days, of pur∣pose to choose a Wife, (for all of them have a like Portions) pitch upon such as please them best, and present them a Nose∣gay, after which, she is sequestred from the rest, & the Marriage Solemniz'd, after the Man has given Information of him∣self and sufficient Caution that he shall provide a Lively-hood for her. There is a very fine little Garden that belongs to the Hospital lying just upon the Tyber. It uses to be well furnished with Plants, and I have seen the Dictamnus Creticus in flowre there. 7ly. The Convents; as particularly the French Minims upon the Monte Trinita. In the upper Gallerie of their Cloyster there is a Dyall, where the Sun beams, entering by a small round hole, Point the Hours. It was made by Marsennus that famous Mathematician, a Father of their Countrie and Order. They have likeways, in a particular part of their Garden some rare Plants, as Ma∣lus punica flore amplissimo pleno & Varie∣gato.

The Minerva; which was anciently the Temple of Minerva, and now is the Chief Convent of the Domini••ans in Rome. In my time there was a French Father there called Padre Barilieri Secretarie to the General for his Nation; He was a great Virtuoso, and exceedingly well versed in the whole Historie of Nature; He had a very Curious Collection of ma∣ny Naturall Things, and was about to have Published a Large Book in Folio, wherein he had designed a Natural Histo∣ry, with a great many cutts, which he showed me. If the Book be Published, I should be very glad to see it; if he be alive, it will be worth your while to pro∣cure his acquaintance. He hath also a Garden well stored with Plants at St. Xisto.

The Roman Colledge; where there is a famous shop and Laboratorie for Phar∣macie, as also a Garden.

8ly. The Capitol; the middle of the Place before it, is the Statue of the Em∣perour Marcus Aurelius, a Horse-back in Brass; It was brought thither from the

Place before St. John de Lateran, and is thought one of the best Modells in the World. At the Top of the Staires, as you enter into the place are two Horses, one on every side held by a Slave in Marble. They were brought thither from the Ruines of Pompey's Theatre. There is also in the same Place two Trophies of Marius; there is also Columna milliaris, with a Brass-ball on the Top of it; there used to be such a one at every miles end, upon the common Roads; & from thence came their Fashion of counting the miles per Lapides, as primo ab urbe Lapide was a mile from the Town &c. The Ca∣pitol, as it now is, consists of three Pala∣ces all of Excellent Architecture, and beautified, both within and without with Painting, Statues, and other Mo∣numents of antiquitie; the particular Relation whereof I referr to the Books that are written thereof, and particu∣larly to one called Roma antica & Mo∣derna, & to the particular demonstration of the Antiquario, for I find it will be utterly impossible to discourse of every

particular, unless I should resolve to compile a Volumn.

The rest of the Monuments, and rests or rather ruins of Antiquitie, I shall pass over, and only name a few of them; as for example, first, the Walls of the City, which were built by Bellisarius Captain of the Guards to Justinian the Emperour. The breaches have been repaired by seve∣rall Popes. The Ports for the most part are the same they were anciently, only the Porta del populo was made a great deal more stately, at the first Entrie of Chri∣s••ina Queen of Sweden into Rome. There is a long courten of the Wall be∣twixt Porta del populo and Villa Borghese, under which it seems the Ground has misgiven, so that the Wall bendeth, & is therefore called Muro torto. Near to this place also, is the Burial Place delle Cortegiane, there being no Christian Burial or Holy Ground allowed to such persones. There is good Herbarizing about the walls, especially on the out-side, and particularly you will find a Plant there which is not common else where, at

least that I have observed, viz. Sature••a Spicata sive Thymbra S. Juliani•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Sa∣tureia vera Lobelii. Upon the Wall of the City, close by the Port of St. Paul•• in via ostiensi; there is yet extant a Py∣ramid built of Marble, which was the Burial Place of C. Ces••ius Septemvir E∣pulonum. Secondly. The old Temples; whereof there are so many that it would be tedious to describe them all, I shall only name some, viz. The Pantheon now cal∣led Madonna della rotunda; It was built by Marcus Agrippa, Son-in law to Au∣gustus Caesar, in Honour of all the Gods. It had the Fortune to escape almost totaly, the ruine, and fury, which the Goths & Vandals brought upon the Roman Em∣pire and magnificence thereof. I admire the Roofe of it, being so large and so flat without any Pillar, to support it, and al∣tho' it be a Vault, it hath no nevil∣stone to bind it in the middle, but in place thereof a round hole so wide that it lights the whole Roome abundantly, nor is there any other Window in the Fa∣brick. The next thing I admire in it is

••he Doore-Cheeks and couple which is all of one Peece of white Marble. The Door opens in two leaves, very wide & very high, they were covered with Corin∣thian Brass, as was also the whole Roofe, until the time of Vrban VIII. who took it off, and covered it with Lead as it now is, and made thereof the great Altar of St. Peters, and some pee∣ces of Ordinance, that are keept in the Castel St. Angelo, as will testifie a par∣ticular inscription at the side of the pan∣theon Doore, made by the Popes com∣mand. Upon this occasion was that Pasquinad; Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecere Barberini. It has a most stately Portico before the Gate, of a great many large tall Pillars of Egyptian black and white speckled Marble; the descent into the Portico from the Street is of ten or twelve steps, but it is said, before the ru∣ine of the City, that there was as great an ascent to it; whence it may be gathered, what an universal & great devastation of buildings must there have been to fill up so great a deepth. And indeed it is obser∣ved,

that when they have any occasion to dig, it is long before they come, in most places, to the terra Virgine, that is, which hath not formerly been broke u∣pon: and when they are digging into old ruins, for Anticails (as they are conti∣nually doing in severall places) they leave off when they come to the Terra Virgine. Before the Portico there is a large coffine, with it's cover and suppor∣ters of Porphyre which they commonly call Agrippa's Tombe.

Near to the entrie of the Camp of Va∣cino, at the bottom of the back stairs that lead to the Capitol, there is a Chapel under ground, which was formerly the Prison of St. Peter and St. Paul, when they suffered for the Holy name of JESVS. It was then called Tullianum, according to that of Cicero; est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur. The Temple of Sa∣turn is hard by, which in ancient times was the Aerarium publicum, in which the Publick Treasury was keept.

Thirdly, the Amphitheatres; most part of which are Ruined, especially that

which was built by Titus, now ••alled the Coliseo; by the part thereof that is stand∣ing you may abundantly Judge of the Magnificence of the whole, when it was extant. There is good Herborizing within it, and there is one Dominicus Pa••arolus that hath Writen Catalogus Plantarum Amphitheatralium; with the rest of his works in ••0. Romae, apud ••ranciscum Monetam 1652. to which I refer You.

Fourthly, the Aqueducts; of which the most part are ancient: when they come near to the City, they are convey'd under ground to several Fountains in the City, and some of them so deep, that it is Prodigious by what art they could have Peirc't so deep, as for example, the Aqua Virgine, which is the sweetest and best for use in all Rome, is conducted so deep thro' the Monte Trinita, That in the French Minims Garden there is a descent of six or seven score steps to come at it. Amongst all the Fountains in Rome the most beautifull are in the Pi∣azza Navona, in the Piazza St. Pietro, the Tre Fountane, &c,

5ly The Thermae, or Baths; as the Thermae Diocletianae built by the Empe∣rour Diocletian. It is said that ten thou∣sand Christians were imployed about this work, and all cruely Massacred when they had finished it. It is now a Mona∣stery of Carthusians, in whose common Garden I remember to have seen the Myrtus Buxifoliis. The ruins of Thermae Antonini Caracallae; they are situated ad Radicem Collis Aventinae. I have seen amongst these Ruins that kynd of Ca∣pillary, which is called Hemionitis, and no where else that I Remember of.

Sixthly the two Columns of Antoninus, and Tra••an Emperours; The Statue of St. Peter stands upon the Top of one, and that of St. Paul upon the other: Trajan was so well beloved of the Peo∣ple that to make a place, which in ho∣nour of him they called forum Trajani, in the midle of which this Column stands, they levelled a great Hill, of the precise hight of the Column it self. Both the Columns are of white Marble, and all the out side Historified in base relieue,

in a spirall line beginning at the bottom and ending at the top. That of Trajan hath the whole storie of the Dacian War. There is a great Book in Folio of this Co∣lumn, wherein all the figures are cutt in Brass, and the Large description thereof added. I have forgot the Authors name, but I believe You will find the Book Al insegna di Parigi alla pace from Jacomo Rossi. where you will likewise find all other sorts of Prints and T••lledouces. The Columne of Antoni••us▪ is 160 foot High and that of Trajan 128. Altho' they apear to be but smal yet each of them hath a Stair-Case within, that leads to the Top. There are some others but less Considerable, as that which stands before St. Maria Majore, which was one of the Pillars of the Templum Pacis, brought hither by Paulus V. who placed a Bra∣sen Statue of the Blessed Virgine upon the Top thereof. There is likewise not far from the same place a little Column with a Crucifix on the Top of it, erected in memorie of the absolution given to Henry the IV. King of France; In the

Capitoll likewise there are two viz. the Columna milliaris, of which already, and the Columna Rostrata, which you will see when you view the fine things within that part of the Capitoll whi••h stands next to the River, where the Hill is most steep and was anciently called Tarpeia Rupes.

Seventhly, the Triumphall Arches; as particularly that of Septimius Severus; That of Titus; and that of Constantine &c.

Eighthly, the Bridges upon the River. Ninthly, the Obelisks; most part where∣of are graven with Aegyptian Hierogly∣phicks. The best of them is erected in the middle of the place before St. Peters, upon the back of four Brazen Lyons, and a large Pedestal of Marble. The next best is at the Porta dell Populo.

Tenthly, the Septem Colles or Montes; upon which Rome is said to be built viz. Mons Capitolinus, Mons Palatinus, Mons Aventinus, Mons Celius, Mons Esquili∣ne••s. (where the House of Virgil was and the Garden of Mecoenas,) Mons Vi∣minalis

and Mons Quirinalis, called now Monte Cavallo where the Popes Palace is.

Eleventhly, some other Hills: as the Ja∣nicular, which is a Chain of Hills with∣out the Walls in the Trans••evere. And the Mons Testaceus, which is nothing but a heap of broken earthen Pots and bricks; for in ancient times these were so much in use; and the Figuli or Tradesmen that made them, so numerous, that there was a necessity of appointing them a particular place, and that by publick edict, for throwing the Ru••bish of their Furnaces and the pot sheards that broke in the Baking into, least otherwise if it had been permitted to throw them into the River, it might have occasioned an ••n∣undation of the City. In process of time it grew to the bignes of the third part of a Mile in Compass, and a Hundred & Sixtie foot in hight. This Hill is within the Walls not far from the side of the River, as also Mons Vaticanus in Trans∣••evere, so called a Vaticiniis which used to be made there: The Palace of the Va∣tican stands upon it.

Twelthly, Roma subterranea; com∣monly called the Catacombs, whereof Bosio hath writen a large Volumn in Folio. There are two of them, both without the Walls. One of them is at St. Sebastion's Church. They are Caverns digg'd under ground in the forme of a Town, that is, larger and lesser streets crossing one another, in some place lower so that You must be forced to stoop, but in others higher than a Mans hight, and all along as you go upon the one Hand and the other, as thick as they can stand one by another, are holes or nests where∣in were placed the bodies of the Dead, one by one, upright upon their feet, and so the nests Plastered over. The Bodies and reliques of many Saints and Martyrs have been found here, and were known to be such by the Cross found upon their Sepulchers, with this Inscription Pro CHRISTO. You must take good lights and a good guide to conduct You, for some have mistaken their Way and never found an outgate. The Second, I need not describe it.

There are severall things about Rome worthie the taking notice of, as 1. Ponte mola a Bridge standing upon the Teve∣re; in Latine Anio, some two miles from the Town, before it joynes with the Ty∣ber. You go to it by the Port del Populo. It is considerable for it's Antiquity. It was at this Bridge that Constantine the great vanquished Maxentius the Tyrant: There having appeared to him before the Battle, in the Firmament, a red Cross with these words in hoc Signo vinces. the story is Painted in fresco in the Palace of the vatican by a great Master, where You may see it and You will seldome miss Painters in the Roome a Copying of it. 2. The City of Tivali, in Latin Tibur; by the way You will pass a little River, The Sulphureous and noysome smell whereof You will perceive at a Miles distance; it is of a whitish Colour as if Meall were mingled with it; there is a white slymie Sulphureous substance adhering to the sydes and bottom of it, which is soft whilest it is under Water, but being once dryed becomes very hard,

they use to make counterfeit comfits, & which they call comfits of Tivoli and use to Cheat People with them for sports sake. The River runs into the Tiverone and spoils the Water thereof, and in my Opinion, does much harme the Water of the Tyber it self, because the Tiverone joyns with it before it come at the City of Rome. The Town is verie ancient, having several marks of great Antiqui∣ty, as Sybilla's Temple, &c. close by the Town the River Teveron•• falling from a great hight over a Rock makes that famous Cascata so much talked of. It makes a horrid noise and continues fro∣thy and working for a good way below the fall, and hath made a Million of meanders and strange figures in the Rock where it falls. A little below the fall there is a Bridge over it of a considerable hight above the Water, where if You stand a while you will perceive a dew able to wet you, which arises from the fall of the Water after the River is fallen. Several parts of it are conveyed by aqueducts in∣to the Town for severall uses; as namely

one part for the Brass works, where You may observe, that the Waeer blowes the fire, not by moving the Bellowes (which is common) but by affording the Wind; an other part of it is carried to the Villa d' Este where there is a curious Palace and most curious Gardens with all sorts of Ingenious Water Works and other ornaments, as statues &c, belonging to Gardens. Amongst other things there are several Artificial Birds, that sing their natural Notes by the help of the Water. There is an Organ that plays sweetly, mo∣ved only by the Water, which also fur∣nisheth it Wind. The Girandola is con∣siderable, where the water rises in a gross Body very High, and the ayr being Ar∣tificially mixed therewith, makes a noice that exactly imitats Thunder. Tivoli is some eighteen or twentie Miles distant from Rome You may easily go from Rome and see all things considerable there, & returne the same day to Rome, unless You please rather to goe to Frescati, which is a most delicious litle Toun about twelve Miles distant from Rome, stand∣ing upon the side of a Hill, from whence

in clear weather You may easily disco∣ver Rome. The Place is beautifi'd with many delicat Villa's about it, amongst which the most considerable are, first, the Belvidere belonging now to the Principe Pamphilio, the water works whereof are esteemed the best in Italy: There is a Cen∣taur that Winds a Horne by the help of the Water, with that Loudness, that it can be heard at six or seven Miles dist∣ance. There is a low Room which they call the Apollo, at the end of which Apollo sits upon the Top of an artificial Parnassus. with the nine Muses about him, he with his Harp, and they with their severall Instruments of Musick, which play by the help of the Water, which is convoy∣ed under ground and is not seen with∣in the Room. About the middle of the Room there is a little hole, out of which the Wind (occasioned by the motion of the Water underneath) comeing furth, hath so much strength as to support a wooden Ball, of the bigness of a Tennes ball, at half a ell's distance and more from the floor, without ever letting it fall

to the ground. 2ly. At half a miles di∣stance from Frescati are the Ruins of Ci∣cero's Tusculanum, and Lucullo's country House; as also a curious villa called monte Dragone, where the House is well adorn∣ed with Paintings, &c. and the Gardens with water works.

3ly If You desire not to Returne to Rome first, You may goe directly from hence to Castello gondolfo, which is about ••ive miles distant from Frescati, and fourteen from Rome. It is a most delici∣ous Countrey House of the Popes, To which he uses to retire some Moneths in the Summer, for the good Air's sake, it hes the Prospect of a most delicat lake, encompased with Hills, that are all sha∣dowed with Trees, where amongst other pleasures you will not want that of Herbarizing.

Being returned to Rome you may make another little Journey with your con∣venience to Ostia, which is some twelve miles distant from Rome doun the River Tyber, it was of old the great Harbour for all the Ships and Gallies that belonged

City and Empyre, cutt out as it seems by Art, but now thro' long neglect fill∣ed up and useless. Having seen all and dyned, you may returne before night to Rome; it will be fit you be at the pains to make another Journey to Caprarolla, one of the noblest Palaces in Italy, built by the famous Architect Vignoli, by order of Cardinal Alexander Farnese. It be∣longes to the Duke of Parma. It is distant from Rome Miles It is in figure, pentagone, having five very High and equal faces, with a Court perfectly round in the middle, as likewise are the Galleries and Corredor's about it. Mor∣over there is almost as much lodging below ground as above. The Hangings, Statues, Pictures, as also the Gardens, Fountains, and other embellishments, doe well sute the magnificence of the Palace.

Having seen Rome and the Places a∣bout it. It will be fit to make the Voyage of Naples. The Months of April and O∣ctober are most convenient for this Jour∣ney, the heat being too great in Summer,

and the Snow and Raine troublesome in Winter.

From Rome to Naples.

 

Miles.

Marin••,

12

Velitre,

08.

Sezza

15

Biperno,

04

Terrazina,

10.

Portella,

03.

Fondi,

05.

Itri,

05.

Mola.

04.

Tragetto,

10.

Pass the River Garrigliano.

Sessa,

07.

Carionole,

04.

Capua,

12.

Auersa,

07.

Naples

08.

 

114.

As You go out at the Port St. Gioua••∣ni, all along the Campania on every side of the High-way, You will meet with many Ruins of Ancient Burial-Places for several Miles from the City.

Velitre; is an Ancient City of the Volsci, much famed also for the Parents of Octavius Augustus, who were Originaly of this Place. Upon the Way from Veletri to Sezza, upon the Hill-side un∣der Sarninetta, there are some Ancient Ruins supposed to be the Tres Taberna••, of which St. Luke speaks in the 28. Chapter of the Acts of the Apostles.

Sezza, formerly Setia; was much com∣mended for its Wine, whence that of Juvenal.

—Tunc illa time cum pocula sume▪ Gemmata & lato Setinum ardebit in auro.

Piperno; in Latin Privernum; and the Inhabitants Privernati; near to this

Place, Iris Florentina, grows abundantly.

Terracina; was Anciently called Aux∣ur, in the Language of the Volsci, of whom this was the Metropolis. Strabo sayeth that it was called Trachina, quasi Aspera from the Rockiness of the Hill u∣pon which it is Placed; altho' the Town be Ancient, it is not very considerable, it is the last Place of the Ecclesiastick E∣state towards Naples; Passengers use to Dine here at a pittiful Inn without the Town, where there is no manner of Furniture, but VVood to make Fire: it not being secure for any Body to live in it, because of the Turks that often Land here, and take what they can meet with. VVhen the People that keep the House see any Strangers Arrive, instantly they make Fire and bring Provision from the Town. The Sea comes very near to the Foot of the Hill where the Town stands, and on that side which is towards Na∣ples, the Rock is precipitious, and betwixt it and the Sea, leaves but a very nar∣row and strait Passage, which one Man

may Guarde against a Hundred. Fondi is the first Town you meet with in the Kingdom of Naples; here you must give notice to the Officers appointed for that purpose of your intended Journey for Naples, and cause registrat your Name, together with the marks of your Horse, that he may be the better known when you return, to be the same that you brought along with you from Rome, or otherways you will not miss to be chal∣lenged upon your return, and stopt, untill you can produce a Certificat that he is the very same you brought into the Kingdom with you. There being a Ge∣neral Prohibition, the observance where∣of is Strictly lookt to, against carrieing Horses or Mares out of the Kingdom, into any foreign part, least the breede of them, which is esteemed amongst the best in Europe, should become com∣mon to other Nations. Notwithstand∣ing of this severity, sometimes with cre∣dit, and sometimes with a little Money, a Man may obtain permission for the

Transporting of one or more, either Horses or Mares.

Mola, is one of the most pleasant places in rhe World; being close upon the Sea side, and but a little way from Gaieta, to which you may go either by Sea or Land. It is likeways hard by the ruins of the Ancient City Formiae, where Cicero had his Villa Formiana. The place abounds with many plants, and great Varietie of the choisest Fruits; especially the Agrumi, such as Citrons, Oranges, Limons &c, of all sorts.

If ye please to go to Gaieta, it is worth the while: It stands at the extremity of of a Promontory or Tongue of Land that runs out into the Sea, from the main-Land about three miles, and by that means becomes peninsule, and for∣meth on the side towards Rome, betwixt it and Terracina, that Sinus Gaitanus, a∣bout twelve miles in length. The Town is pleasantly Situated and strongly. There is a great Rock hard by, which is rent from Top to Bottom, which they say, happened when the Saviour of the

World Suffered upon the Cross. There is excellent Herbarizing all the way be∣twixt it and Mola.

Trajetto is a Castle near the place where the Ancient City of Minturnae stood, where there is yet to be seen an Amphitheatre almost intire, and the re∣mains of a great Aqueduct: It was a∣mongst the Marishes near to Mintur∣nae, that C. Marius did hide himself, when he fled from his Enemies; whence that of Juvenal,

Exilium & carcer Minturnarum{que} Paludes, Et Mendicatus victa Carthagine Panis.

You must pass at this place the Ri∣ver Garigliano, called Li••is Anciently.

Capua, is a new City standing upon the side of the River Vulturnus, and some two miles from it, the Ruins of the Old famous Capua which in the Old Ro∣mans Time, was esteemed one of the most delicious Places in the VVorld. There are yet Vestiges of the Gates of the City, of a Theatre, of a great many sumptuous Temples, Cisternes un∣der gronnd, and a great many other

things; that evidently show it to have been a magnificent City. The Coun∣try from Vulturnus to Naples, is called the Campania Felice, and is indeed the fertilest soyle and bautifullest Coun∣try that my Eyes ever beheld.

Aversa is a new City, extructed out of the Ruins of Atella, It is distant 8 Miles from Naples, and famed for a kind of Wine called Asprin••.

That way which leades from Rome to Naples, was Anciently called Via Appia, from Appius Claudius the Censor, who caused Pave this way from Rome, just to Capua. It begins at the Port now called St. Sebastian, but Anciently Porta Capena, from the Capenati a peo∣ple of Latium, to which that way did lead. The Via Appia is of that breadth that one Chariot may easily pass another. The Emperour Trajan did renew it, and continue the Pavement even to Brin∣dici, drying the marishes, plaining the Hills, and filling up the Valleyes. By this way Anciently did pass the grea∣test part of the Triumphs; whence it

was called Regina viarum: whence that of Papinius;

Appia cunctarum fertur Regina viarum.

Altho' this way be Ruined in many places, yet it is wonderfull to see, in how great perfection a great deal of it con∣tinues. Without doubt it has been a matter of vast Expense to make a way of that Length, and Breadth so well paved, with Quadrangular Stones, that even to this Day (altho' it be of common & frequent Passage) continueth as intire as if it were newly done. Upon both sides of this way, as far as Capua, there are a great many Ancient Sepulchres; many whereof are altogether ruined, and some almost intire, as yet; in one of these Sepulchres, in the Reign of Alex∣ander VI. (as Volateranus tells) the Body of a Delicat young VVoman, was found altogether intire in a Marble Chist. She was of incomparable beautie hav∣ing her long Flaxen Hair drawn toge∣ther upon her Head with a Circle of Gold. The Body did almost swim in a mervellous kind of Liquor and had a

burning Lamp at the Feet thereof, which the Air, coming in at the opening of the Sepulchre, did instantly extin∣guish. The Body (as did appear by the Letters graven upon the place) had lyen there thirteen Hundred Years. Some have been of Opinion that it was the Body of Tulliola, the dearly Beloved Daughter of Cicero. It was presented in its integrity to the Conservators of Rome, and for some Days keept in the Capitol as a singular curiosity; but Pope Alex∣der coming to understand it, caused it to be thrown into the Tyber.

I must not omit to tell you, that there is some incommoditie in this Journey both as to Dyeting and Lodging; and sometimes there is perill from the Ban∣diti; But he that will gather Roses, must not be affraid to prick his Fingers: Be∣sides, that danger is but sometimes, and you may probably find the way clear, especially, if the Vice-Roy be a stirring Active Man, as it often happens: For then the Banditi will hardly dare to

come so far down from the Hills▪ as the Via appia, or High-way to Naples.

Naples was Anciently called Parthe∣nope, from one of the Sirens, Buried in this place, (who as the Fables say) Drowned her self for Grief, that She could not Charm Vlysses and his Com∣panions. Hence Silius lib: 12.

Sirenum dedit una tuum memorab•••••• nomen. Parthenope muris Acheloias, aequore cujus Regnavere d••l cantus, cum dulce per undas, Exitium miseris caneret non Prospera nautis.

It was built Closs upon the Sea, at the foot of most pleasant Hills; First built by the Cumani or Inhabitants of Cuma; who being taken with the sweetness of the Air & Pleasantness of the Place; did daily increase in number; insomuch that the Cumani that lived at Cuma, took a Resolution utterly to Ruin Parthen••pe

••east their own City should become deso∣••at. But it being Ruined, there came so great a Pestilence upon Cuma, as car∣ried away Multitudes, and having con∣sulted the Oracle about the cause of this Mortality; it was answered that this fate had come upon them for the Ruine of Par∣thenope; and that if they ever hop'd to be free from this disease, they should first re∣store it, whence with all diligence they went about the Restauration thereof, and called it Neapolis, that is to say the new City. The sweetness of the Air, & delicacy of the Country about is so great, that many Emperours and Roman Senators being wearied with the Wars, and weightiness of Government, did repair to this place, that they might live plea∣santly & Peaceably, & give themselves to the Study of Letters; amongst which were Virgil, T. Livius, Horatius, Claudianus •• & a great many more: At this very pre∣sent it is no less frequented by the Nobi∣lity and Gentrie of the whole Kingdom, who for the most part have their own Palaces and pass the greatest part of the

Year here; so that for Nobility and Gentry there are few Cities in the World more considerable than this. I think it is for this Reason, that it is commonly called Napoli la Gentile: Nor is it to be passed by, that it gives name to a Kingdom; which is not very Ordinary.

The City is big and sumptuously built from the Sea to these pleasant Hills a∣bout it. It is very well fortified with strong Walls & Castles, especially since the dayes of Charles V. who built the Castle of St. Elme and called it la Bri∣lia, that is, Bridle; intending to make it so, to the mutinous Humour of that people, and it may be alluding to the Armes of the City, which is an unbrid∣led Horse; the exact emblem of the di∣sposition of that people, as witness the innumerable Tumults and revolts both of old and late Years made by them. I confess there is no small occasion given them by the severe domination of Stran∣gers over them; and it is strange that having so many brave and va∣lourous Men amongst them, they

should more readily agree to submit their necks to the Yoak of a Stranger, than to the sweet Scepter of a Native of their own number and Nation. It is thought the great emulation, (which the Spaniards as wisely, as industriously keep up to the hight) amongst the Princes, who are but too numerous for the ex∣tent of the Kingdom, is the great cause of their unhappiness.

You may take notice of these particu∣lars within the Town. 1ly. The Church∣es; of which this City hath a greater num∣ber, than any other of its bigness in Europe. Amongst the rest, that of the Annunciata, is so Rich; that the Rent of the Hospitall thereof is capable to entertain, 5000 Poor, part whereof are Children found. St. Chiana, together with the Monastrie of Nuns consisting of 400 with as many servants, is very glori∣ous; It was Built by Agnes of Spain Queen to King Robert. There are many curious Sepulchres to be seen here of Kings, Queens, and their Children. In the Church of St. Dominico is to be seen

the Image of the Crucifix, that said to St. Thomas Aquinas; bene scripsisti do me▪ Thoma. In the Church of the Frat•• di monte Oliueto, the true Pictures of Ferdinand, the first and the second; and Alfonsus the First; both Kings of Naples, are so Admirably well done that they seem to be living. There is likewise Buried here Alexander ab Alexandro, who composed that learned work Genialium dierum. The Church called the Domo, hath a Chapell compo∣sed of Marble, Jasper, Gold and Brass; wherein is keept the Head of St. Genna∣ro, and a little Phiole of his Blood all to∣gether fixed, which being approached to the Head of the St. ••immediatly begins to boyll, dissolves and becomes clear. The most ancient of all the Churches is that of St. Paul, keept now by the Jesuits; It was formerly the Tem∣ple of Castor and Pollux.

2. The Religious Houses or Convents; of which there are so great a number, that the Dominicans alone have seventeen. The Chartrous convent stands upon the

Hill, a little beneath the Castle St. Elm••' It hath the pleasantest Situation that I ever beheld; one may discover from it the whole City and Suburbs of Naples, a great part of the Campania Felice, the monte Vesuvio, all the Bay of Naples, the Island of Capreae, the Hill Posilipo, Pu∣teoli, Baii, Cuma, &c. The Cloister of the convent is all of white Marble, and in short, both the Church and whole Con∣vent are altogether Magnificent.

3ly. The Hospitals; which are about twelve in number; amongst which, that of the Annunciata and of the Incueabili are the most considerable. It is said that they Marry 665. Maids every Year, and the least portion they give with any is 24 Ducats, and the greatest 300.

4ly. The Castles; of which there are 4. The Castle d'Ovo stands within the Sea upon a Rock, built of an Oval Figure by Willam III. a Norman. The Castle Nov•• was built by Charles the first, Brother to St. Lewes, but it was Ferdinand of Ara∣gon that fortified it so well. It is of a quadrangular figure, Built of polished

Stone as hard as Marble; it hath foure great Bastions, and five Towres, toge∣ther with strong ramparts, and deep Ditches, which the Sea water filleth: It is ordinarly keept by a Garison of the Spaniards Consisting of 500. There is a great Magazin of all kinds of Armes & Engines for War keept within it. In the middle of it stands the Governours Palace, capable to Lodge a King. It is excellent∣ly furnished with Hangings of silk and gold, many excellent Statues and Pi∣ctures. Amongst other fine things there is a Cabinet furnished with all sorts of curiosities. The Castle of St. Elm stands upon the top of a Rock, commanding all about it; It's Garison consists of 250. Spainards. It was built by King Robert the first, Son to Charles II. but after∣wards farr better fortified with great Bastions by the Emperour Charles V. who called it La Brillia di Napoli.

The Castle Capuano (so called from it's situation which is near to the Port of Capuano) is rather a Palace than a Fortress where the Magistrats of the City,

and Officers of justice keep their Assem∣blies.

5. The Palaces; whereof there are a very great number, amongst which that of the Viceroy; That of the Prince of Salern▪ which the Jesuits now possess, are very considerable. The Palace of the Duke of Gravina is most superb. That of the Cara∣fi is adorned with abundance of excel∣lent statues of Marble and Brass. There be many other worthie to be seen: as also the beautifull Garden of Don Garcia di Toledo, which is full of Grotto's, Foun∣tains, Water works, statues &c.

6. The Harbour, or Sea Port; which is fortified with a Superb mole, first made by Charles II. And then very much mended by Alfonsus the first, for the great∣er security of the Harbour.

7. The Publick Places, the streets, & the avenues of the Town.

8. The Suburbs; which are seven in number; amongst which the most consi∣derable, is that which leads A la grotio di Posilipo; near to the entry of which Grotto stands la mergelina, looking in∣to

the Bay; it was sometimes the House of pleasure of Sanazarius that famous Poet, who gave it to the Religious men called Servi. This Suburb is no less than two miles in length from the City to the Grotto of Po••lipo. The Circuit of the Town and Suburbs is counted to be a∣bout six miles: and the Inhabitants to be about 30••000. Soules. Statius Papi∣nius and Jacobus Sanazarius; both excel∣lent Poets; together with many other great Virtuosi were borne in this City.

It will be worth the while also to take a view of the Book-sellers Shops, there being many good Books Printed here which hardly or not all can be found with us; as for example, the works of Baptista Porta, whereof the Impressions at Naples were both the first and fairest, and the Cutts for the most part Tailledouce. The works of Fabius Columna, which are almost out of Print, and especially his Phytobasanos. It may likewise happen that there are some new peeces emitted which will never come to our hands

for at least, not tell after a great while. It is likely too that You may meet with many other Books, that in other places You had sought in vain for: there are many learned and Curious men in this City, and they are as mortall here as elsewhere, and as ordinary a thing it is to sell their Books.

You will likewise meet with a great many curiosities of all sorts, espccially from the Levant: some naturall; as stones, shells, Animalls, or parts of them, fruits &c. Others artificiall; some of Leather, as Purses, Letter-cases, cups, and a great many things of that kind, usualy brought from Allepo and Con∣stantinople: Some of Silk either alone, or mingled with gold and silver; as Sashes, Girdles, Cravats, Night-Caps, wast∣coats, stockings, &c. Outlandish Armes, as Cimetres, Poyniards, Bows and Ar∣rows, with severall sorts of fire Armes. Medalls antient and modern: Intalio's Chameo's &c. But in these You must take some heed, that You mistake not the modern for antique.

Having well viewed and considered the City and all things in it. It will be necessary to see those things that are con∣siderable about it. And first the Hill Po∣silipus, famous for it's Gardens and Houses of Pleasure, for it's Fruits and Wines, especially the greco di Posilipo. But that which is most Admirable in this Hill is the Passage cut quite thro' it. By Cocceius of whom Pontanus saith, Nescio an is fu∣erit M. Cocceius Nerua Augusti Avus, qui Romae aquarum curam habuit tulit{que} m••x∣imam Architecturae Laudem. Howeve•• it is certain he must have been a man of great Riches that durst undertake so great a work, at his oun expence. It is called la Grotta di Posilipo, and is very near a mile in length, cutt thro' the Rock. As for the breadth of it, one Coach may pass another with ease. And for the Hight, I believe a man on Horseback will hardly touch the Roof of it with a Lance; At the two ends it is some what higher than in the middle, I think of purpose that the light might enter the farther. When You enter at the one end You

will very hardly perceive the light in the other end, but as You advance it begins to appear by little and little. In the Just middle of it, on that side which is next the Sea, there is a little Chapell, where a Lamp is keept continually burning, but it is more out of Devotion than for any light it gives: betwixt the Chapell and the end, as it were about the middle on every side of the Chapell there is a hole cutt thro' the Hill which serveth for a win∣dow, but it gives little light. It is exceed∣ing dusty, especeially if there be many Horses Ryding together altho' it be paven with stone, because there comes no Rain to wash it, and none takes pains to make it clean. Those that goe from Naples to Pozzuolo if they hear any Horses Coaches or Carts coming toward them, least they should stop the way, or unawares Justle one another, they use to cry aloud dal mare, which when the others hear, they cry in like manner dal monte and so those that goe from Naples take that side of the Grotto, which is next the Sea and these that go to it take the side

next the Hill; and so avoid all incum∣brance. At the mouth of the Grotto, upon the top thereof is the famous Sepulchre of Virgil. There is little remaning of it now except a few Ruins of an old Brick wall in the middle whereof anciently there did stand nine small Pillars, which su∣stained a Marble U••••, in which were con∣tained the Poets ashes, with this Distich.

Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, te∣net nunc Parthonope; cecini pascua, rura, duces.

Not far from this Tomb, is the Sepul∣chre of that famous Poet Sanazarius, in a Place called Mergelina, a Villa given him by King Frederick, where he built a Church in Honour of the BIessed Virgin, and composed that incomparable Poem de partu Virginis. He is Buried within the Church in a Tomb of pure Marble upon which his statue done to the life standeth with this Epitaph by Cardinal ••embo.

Da Sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni Sineerus, musa proximus, ut tumulo.

There are many other excellent Statues, Base Relieves, and Pictures within this Church well worthie the seeing.

When you go to Pozzuolo, you must take a Guide with you to show you all the considerable Places. It will be a good dayes Journey because You have many Things to see and consider, and therefore you must part early in the Morning from Naples. The first thing you will meet with upon the Way, (but you turne out of the common way) is the Lago di Agnano at the side of which are the Natural stoves of St. German, which are certain little roomes, where the hot and Sulphureous Vapors entering from the Ground quick∣ly provoke sweating, and is commend∣ed in severall diseases.

At a little distance from thence, up∣on the side of the Lake is the Grotto de I Cani. It is a little hole dug out of the side of a Brae where two or three Persons scarcely can stand. The Floore of it is ordinarily wet and dirtie, out of which there riseth a Poisonous Vapour,

in form of Smoak, but it ascendeth not above a Foot from the Ground. They use to trie it with Torches and Dogs, which you must carrie from Naples with you, for you will not find them upon the Place. As for the Torches, the guide lights two, and then reaches one of them to the Smoak, which instantly ex∣tinguishes, as if it were blown out by the force of Powder: Then he lights it at the other, and so renews the experi∣ment as oft as you please, keeping al∣ways one lighted, untill your Curiosi∣tie be satisfied; as for the Dogs he holds their Nose into the Vapour, and instantly they begin to fetch their Breath thick, and in a very little space are quite suffocated. If ye let them ly long, they will never recover, but if ye take them immediately when they are fallen down and throw them into the Lake, they will by little and little returne to live again. I guesse this Vapour to be so much like the Damps, that are sometimes found in our Coal-pitts, only, with us, they are soon dissipated, but here this lasteth

continuallie, and (which is yet more strange) in an open Air; but it may be the openness of the Air is the Reason why the Vapour ascendeth no higher. I remember one of our Dogs did recover without being thrown into the Lake, which makes me believe, that it is not any peculiar Vertue in the water (as is commonly said) that restoreth them to life, but only the freedom of the Air, with the help whereof Nature reinforceth it self, the life being yet not quite ex∣tinct, which is cleared by this, that if they lye any considerable time in the cave, neither Air nor water will recover them. It is very True that, That which was thrown in the Lake recovered much sooner, and better: whereas the other remained paralytick, and impotent to move his hinder quarters: (tho' he could Sit upon his foremost Leggs and bark▪) for almost two houres thereafter. It seems there is something in this Vapour or Damp that coagulats or fixes the Spi∣rits, that they cannot move or circu∣lat in the Body.

From hence you take the Way to Pazzuolo, near to which you will meet with a Place called la Solfatara, it is a large plaine, Oval in Figure, representing a The∣atre, it is above 1200 Foot in length and 1000 in breadth, it is compassed about with white & high Hills, from which in many Places, arise Clouds of smoak, of a Sulphu∣reous smell, rolling up into the Air impetu∣ously, with great crackling. Some of these spiracles are very small, so that it is a Plea∣sure, to see the Smoake ascend, by a direct line of the bigness of cane, and sometimes smaller by much. About these spiracles you will see Quantitie of the Flowres of Brimstone sublimed; but I suspect the internal use of them, because of the mix∣ture of other minerals wherewith they may be infected: But for external uses, I am not so doubtfull, as also of the Spirit which by the help of convenient Glasses might be gathered in aboundance from these spiracles. When you consider the plaine you will wonder to hear it sound under your Horse-feet, as you were Ri∣ding over a large Floore, which is caused

by the Vacuitie underneath. All the Hills about abound in veines of Allum whereof some is scissile; nitre, Sulphur, Vi∣triol & Salt Armoniac. The Vitriol is of a Delicat blew Colour and much finer than that which is commonly called Ro∣man-Vitriol. It will be worth your while to take particular notice of these mi∣nerals, how they are extracted out of their mines, what differences there are of every Species, how they are mixed with one another sometimes, by what Art they are purified, and with what Instruments, and to what use they are put. I would have you take a Parcel of every sort and bring along with you, which you may box up at Naples with Cotton, and send before you to Rome.

Having done these things, you come to Pozzuolo; in Latine Puteoli. The City is now much Ruined; but was Stately and Rich of Old. Cicero writing to At∣ticus saith quid potui non videre cum per Emporeum puteolanum iter facerem; which is Chieflly to be understood of that part of the Town, which stood upon the

Shoare where the Arti••ans, and chiefly the Goldsmiths, had their Shops, where∣of there remaines little now except the Ruins, and Vestiges: And yet beneath the Church di Giesu Maria, possessed by the Dominicans, when the Wind dryves out the Sea, they do find sometimes severall Precious Stones, some cutt, some uncutt; and if you be Curious to en∣quire you will find People that make a Trade to sell such things amongst other Anticails. I remember there came seve∣rall of these Persons to our Lodging-House, with Medals, Intaglio's, Lucerne Antiche &c. But I found many of them to be cheats, and but moderne, brought thither from Naples and other Places, of purpose to cheat Strangers, who are or∣dinarly more Curious than knowing of these things; As for Medals, were they never so Ancient, they are little worth unless they be well preserved, and the Characters and impressions easie to be discerned. And for Intaglio's unless the Figure be good▪ and well done, and the Stone entire and unbroken, they are not

worth much. The great Church now dedicated to St. Proclus was anciently dedicated to Octavianus Augustus. It is a Sumptuous Fabrick of great square Marble Stones; serving for the whole thickness of the Wall, with great and high Corinthian Pillar's, and other Ex∣cellent Ornaments of Architecture.

Here are also be seen many Ruins of great antiquitie, amongst which she Gardens of Cicero famous for his Academy, where he wrote his Quaestiones Academi∣cae. But this City, in diverse ages has suffered so much by the tumults of Wars, as also by the eruptions of fire and earth∣quakes, that it is wonderfull there should yet remain any vestiges of Antiquitie. The Soil about it is most fertile and fruitfull, and nature produceth here many Plants of it's oun accord, which in other places are kept in Gardens, not without care: among others I remember to have seen the Ricinus or Palma Christi not only growing wild but out-living that Winter, and continuing fresh green and strong in the month of March; al∣tho'

it be an Annual Plant with us, that can hardly be raised upon a hot bed.

You may have your Horse at Pozzuolo, and hyre a boat to cross the Bay for see∣ing of the following things, And 1. hard by the City the remains of that Superb mole, which having been ruined by storme was afterwards Restored by the Emperour Antoninus: But at present all that Remains is 12. or 13. great Pillars built of Brick and stones of vast bigness. They appear so many towrs, over which there are yet remaining, but half Ruined, some Arches. This fashion of Moles seem to be the best, because the Pillars and Arches are sufficient to break the water and secure the Ships within, and by letting part of the water enter betwixt the Pillars les∣sens it's violence, so that the Pillars suffer not half so much, as if they were one continued wall. The Emperour Caligulae built a bridge of boats from Pozzuolo to Baii upon which he went in Triumph first on Horsback and then in Chariot, but it was of small continuance and ser∣ved only to be the subject of discourse in

future ages. Having passed these Pillars. Yov put ashore hard by the Lacus Lu∣crinus which as some said was so called a Lucro from the profit which it yeild∣ed to the Romans by the great abundance of excellent Fish especialie Oysters, which were esteemed before any other in Italy: Whence Martial to express the Glutto∣ny of a certain Person.

Ostrea tu sumis stagno saturata Lucrino.

But there is little water in it now, it being almost dryed up by that most Ter∣rible eruption of the Solfatara which happned in the Year 1538. the 29. of September two hours after Sun set, the whole countrey about having been troubled for two Years before with Earthquakes: At which time there burst out in one night so great a quantitie of fire, Stones, Pumecks, and ashes, that near to the monte Barbaro formerly called mons Gaurus it made another Hill, near three miles in compass, and almost as high as the monte Barbaro. The south part of it looks to the Sea, the north reaches to the Lacus Avernus, & on the East it is

joined with the foot of Monte Barbaro. It is called monte Nuovo. These ashes did not only make this Hill, but covered like∣wise a great part of the Country about, Killing both beasts and Trees, and ruin∣ing the Vintage for that Year. The Sea in the mean time retired above 200 paces, leaving abundance of Fish upon the dry sands, and many Wells of fresh Water, which sprung here and there.

2. The Lacus Avernus is about half a miles distance from the Lago lucrino. It is compassd about with small Hills which they say were formerly covered with Trees, that did over shaddow the wa∣ter, and make it look black, and like∣wise did hinder the Sulphureous Vap∣ours that did arise from the water to dissipat, so that the Air being infected with these vapours became so noysome especially to Fowls, that they could not live in it, and hence came the Name Avernus. At present there is little or no Wood about it, nor is the Air any thing more noysome there, than in other places about, and I have seen Fowles

haunting about it and swimming in it. It is said to be very deep & for that reason without Fish but I am not certain hereof.

3. Upon the west side of the Lake, cutt into the Hill is the Antrum Sybillae commonly called Grotta della Sybilla, but not truly, for the true Cave of Sybill•• is at C••••••a. This seems rather to have been a common passage from Avernus to P••ia, but is now stopt at the one end by the falling down of the Hill a∣bove. The passage is large and High, but altogether dark, and therefore You must be guided by Torch light. When You are got a good way in, upon the one side there is a little narrow passage of about three or fourscore foot in length, that leads into a handsome large Cham∣ber, which altho' it be now much ruin∣ed, appears to have been Richly adorned, the Roof of it being Painted with Gold and Blew, and the Walls with curious figures of divers colours and the Pave∣ment consisting of many small peeces like unto Mosaick. It is a vulgar errour that this was Sybilla's Chamber, and

that the Temple of Apollo, where she re∣ceived her Responses, was hard by upon the Right Hand as you enter to the Lake; But it is not so, for the Ruins of that Place appeare not to have been any Tem∣ple at all, But rather a Superb Bathing House, such as that of Baia, for it has the same order of Windows, & Spiracles for conducting of the Vapours. But to returne to the Grotto, upon the left hand, as You enter into this Chamber, there is another Passage, some what higher and larger than the first, about 40. foot in length cut out into the Hill, which leads into another Chamber, from which there is a narrow passage, which leads into another Chamber, and severall other little passages and Roomes which I doe not distinctly remember, only this much that in one of them, there is as it were a little Pool of Warm Water. In this Room the heat is so great, that it is im∣possible to continue any time in it with∣out excessive Sweating, which makes me to believe, that these Rooms were inten∣ded for no other use than Bathing and Sweating.

4. The Remains or Ruins; and first Bagno di Cicerone. 2ly. Bagno di Tritoli; quasi Frittoli, q••od Corpora ibi fricrentur, The Entrie to it is large and high. Tow∣ards the ground it is cold, but if you stand upright You must needs Sweat for Heat, and the farther one goes in, the greater the Heat is. At the bottom of the Rock within Sea-mark, and even where the Sea covers it, the Sand is so Hot that one cannot lift a handfull of it.

5. Baia; So called from Baius, the Companion of Vlysses, who was Buried there. It was a most delicat City, but now altogither Ruined, and in the place of it there is a Castle lately Built with a a Garison of 30. Souldiers for Securing the Port, which is verie safe for Gallies, but not deep enough for Ships. The whole Bay, or Sinus of Baia, is exceed∣ingly Pleasant; all that Tract betwixt Avernus and the Mons Misenus being full of the Remains of great and Noble structures. Many of the Roman Emper∣ours took great pleasure in this place, & and spared no cost for the beautifying of

it. Horace, who was no ill Judge, gives this Testimony of it,

Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis praelucet amoenis.

As You go forward from Baia, You will still be finding something worthie the Remarking; as, 1. The House of Agrippi∣na, Nero's Mother, who was put to Death here by her Sons Command. It is com∣monly said to be her Sepulchre, but it is not true. There is yet to be seen the Plaister of the Roof and walls in severall Curious figures, but they are much de∣faced by the smoak of the Torches which strangers from all parts so frequently carry down with them. 2. That delicat Pleasant Field called the Eligium, so much renowned by Virgil in the 6th. Book of the Aeneids. All the Noble Per∣sons that lived here abouts, or did other∣wise attend upon the Court, which did often happen to be here, likewise those that for their Health's sake came to the Bath's, used to walk in this place for their

Recreation and Converse. I am easily inclined to believe that considering it's Situation, Prospect, and the Order that it was keept in, when so many great Persons frequented it, It could not chuse but have been the most delicious Place in the whole World, and no wonder that it Prompted Virgil to Borrow both it's name and his Conceit in expressing and describing the Place of the Blessed Soules Departed. I saw it in the begin∣ing of the Moneth of March, and then the Heat was considerable, and the Place not only green but covered with Anemonies and other Flowers. Hard by this, is the Piscina Miraebilis: it is a Ci∣stern for keeping of fresh Water, of a vast Bigness, the Roof whereof is support∣ed by 48. great Pillars on everie side. The whole inside of it is Crusted over with a kind of Plaster as hard as Mar∣ble, which whither it was so made by Art, or by the Continuance of the Water in it, I know not, but I think it probable that both have contributed to it. Boccace in his Book of Rivers, believs

it to have been built by Agrippa, for preserving of fresh Water, for the Com∣modity of the Navie which used to stay at Misenum. The Water was brought to it by aquedu••ts from Serino. 3. Mons Misenus or the Promontorium Misenum, so called from Misenus, Aeneas's Trum∣peter, who was Buried here. It is of a Reasonable Hight, and without doubt the prospect from it is Noble; but I did not ascend it, by reason of the Com∣pany that would not stay for me.

4. The Centum Cellae; which are a con∣tinued Fabrick built of Brick with great Art under ground, it seems they have been Cisterns for Conserving of Water. In short, all this peece of ground is full of ancient Ruins, and it is not easie to Guesse, what every one of them in Par∣ticular hath been.

Having vieued all these things, you ei∣ther go straight to Cuma, or else you leave it for another Day, and so re∣turne to Pozzulo, by the same Boat that waited upon you from it, and so returne by Horse, by the lower but plainer and

more pleasant Way, to Naples, from from whence the next Day you may go to Cuma, in Latine Cumae; a City built upon the Top of a Hill six Miles from Naples; upon the highest Top of this Hill stood the Temple of Apollo built by Dedalus, when he fled from the wrath of King Minos. It was in this Temple that Sybilla Cumea did pronounce the Ora∣cles of Apollo. Hence that of Virgil,

At pius Aeneas arces quibus altus Apollo Praesidet, horrendae{que} procul secreta Sybillae.

As you descend from Cuma upon that side that looks to the East, is to be seen the Frontis-peece of the true Grotta of Sybilla, which was cut out of the solid Rock, which Virgil describeth,

Excisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in antrum.

There are many other Ancient Ru∣ins worthie the taking notice of, which you may have leasure enough to observe, and have time enough to returne to Naples at Night.

The next Day you may take Horse again and a Guide with you from the Town, to see the burning Hill, about 8 Miles distant from the Town; It is cal∣led in Latine Vesuvius, and in Italian Monte di soma, from the great Plentie of all things wherewith it aboundeth. the Hill it self is of a very Large Com∣pass, and about the middle divided in two Tops, of which one is much abated of its length by the burning. Before the first eruption of the Fire, it was much higher than the other, but now it is by much the lower. It is not easily accessible both in regard of its steepness, and the great Quantitie of Ashes that co∣ver it every where, by Reason whereof, the ascent becomes slippery and uncer∣tain. In the ascending, you may take nottice of many several Channels, some larger and deeper, some narrower and shallower made by the Tor∣rents of burning Sulphur and other Mineral Substances, which Boyled out at the Top in the last great eruption it made, which torrents were carried se∣veral

Miles into the Gulf or bay of Na∣ples without being quenched, and killed the Fishes in the middle of the deep. You may likeways take notice of the various Mineral Substances, & Stones burn'd to Pumick, which are scattered over the whole Hill. When you come at the Top you will see the great Gulf made by the se∣veral eruptions, which is suposed to be six Miles in compasse about the Brimmes, so that it makes a very large plain Field at the Bottom, that in deepness from the brimm is not above a hundred Yards, it is all covered with Ashes, and no∣thing green in it, except it be some few Tufts, of I cannot tell what, not being able to Judge of them at that distance. The descent to the Bottom at some pla∣ces seems to be easie enough, but we could find none so hardie as to venture to show us the way, altho' some of our Guides had undertaken it before, and to speak truth, it is no great discretion to venture so far down upon a Ground, which probably is not able to support one, being nothing in appearance but a

Field of Ashes of uncertain deepthness. You will see in a Hundred diverse Places, Spiracles, some greater, some smaller, out of which the Smoak rises impetu∣ously, as it were shott out of a Gun, and with a continual Crackling, like that of Thunder at a distance, or the quenching of Fire. When you have satisfied your Curiositie of seeing all, you must return the same Day, and take your Horse where you left him, about the middle of the Hill; and so returne to Naples. It is usuall for Strangers to light at a Village a∣bout midway to the City, to Taste of these excellent Wines, that grow upon the fertile places of the Hill, and parti∣cularly of Lachryma Christi, otherways called Lagrima di Soma, which is a gross bodied Red Wine, strong and sweet to the taste, and very pleasant.

In the suburbs of the Town, as you re∣turn, you may see the Kings Stables, where the choisest Horses of the Kingdom are menaged and keept for the Kings use.

Thus having vieued all in & about Na∣ples, it will be time to order your re∣turn

for Rome, by the same way you came, nor do I remember any other thing needfull to be observed or advised, except that you must l••t•• your Baggage ••e vieued at the Gate▪ as you go out, and take a Pass from the Customers; or which you will pay some small thing. You will likeways do well to rid your self of all Spanish Monie (gold excepted) unless it be somuch as will serve to bear your expen∣ses to Fu••die, because it will not pass in any place of Italy, except such as are un∣der the Spanish Dominion.

If the Season of the Year be good, there is excellent Her••••rising upon this ••oade to Naples. You will find Wild in the Fields, many sorts of Narcissus's, many Colours of single Anemone's, Squills: As••h••delus albus ma••or; Tithyma∣lus Dendroides. It is a Plant I never saw, except upon the way from Piper∣n•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 T••rrachina, about mid way u∣pon a Hill side, where it groweth in great aboundance. It is a stately tall Plant, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 reading it self into severall Branches, some whereof I observed to be as big as a

Mans Wrist. It had few or no leaves on it in the Season when I saw it, which was March, but aboundance of Yellow Flowers at the Top's of the Branches: The Ficus indica lati-folia, is a Beast∣ly weed in the same Place, and spoiles all the Ground; every leafe that falls spring∣ing up into a new Plant, which at last becometh hard and woodie. Tuchr••um lusit anicum arborescens, of which I saw some goodly tufts near to Terachina. There be many other, which for brevi∣ties sake I omit to mention, and like∣ways a great many that I have forgot, having lost those notes I made of their names and places; but I hope you will supply this defect, being your self much more able to do it.

Being returned to Rome, which I shall suppose to be about the middle or end of April: It will be fitt for you to think of the next Voyage towards Loretto, un∣less you resolve to pass the Summer at Rome, for after the 20th. of May, un∣till the latter Rains fall (which is com∣monly about the middle of September, or

the beginning of October, the extream heat makes Travel very unseasonable. But if in the case of necessity, such as Pestilence, or War, you should be forced to undertake the Journey, you must order it so as to Travel most in the Night, and Rest in the heat of the Day, and be sure not to Sleep till you have passed the Campania of Rome, as I have formerly marked.

The Way to Loretto from Rome.

 

Miles.

Prima porta

7

Castel Novo

8

Rignano

7

Civita

9

O••ricoli

8

Nar••i

••

Terni

••

Strettur••

8

Spolet••

8

Passo di Spel••to

8

Verchi••no B••rg••

9

Pi•• di dignano

••

Mucc••a Castello

7

Valcimara

8

To••entino

9

Macerata

10

Loretto

6

I have not much to say of the parti∣cular places upon this Road, only Tern•• is an Ancient City and pleasantly situat∣ed; the River Negra, in Latine Nar being divided in many Branches, and drawn through the Town, are as it were so many little Rivers, whence also the Town in La∣tine is called Interamna: the Meadowes & Fields about it, are exceedingly fertile, in so much that the meadowes are mowen three or four times a Year; and they talk that Turneps are often found there of five or six & thirtie weight, of which seaven or eight will load an Ass; it is also renowned for Pidgeons, which are thought the biggest & most savoury in Italy. If you can take the leisure to stay here any time, it will be worth your

while to see the Lago di piedi luco, in Latine Lacus velinus (not far from Terni) which is said to be the middle of all I∣taly, that which is most considerable in it, is the Issue of the Waters from it, which was cut by a Roman Consul through a Rock, whence it Rushes out, and falls over so great a hight of Rocks, that it makes a noise which may be heard at ten Miles distance, and makes a grea∣ter cascata then that of Tivoli. From Verchian•• you have the Appennine to pass, which is that ridg of Hills that divides all Italy by the length.

From Valcimara, the way is exceeding good to Loretto.

Loretto it self is a little Town not very Ancient, built upon the Top of a Hill, not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Adri∣atick Sea, it is fortified reasonably well: the most considerable thing in it, is the Church, in the Quire whereof stands the Casa S••ncta, brought thither from Judeae Miraculously by Angels, as is beleeved. This is the House in which the blessed Virgin is said to have been Born. The

out-side of it is walled about with Mar∣ble cut into excellent Figures, but yet so as the Walls touch not the Holy House. The inside hath continually Lamps burning in it, some of Gold, some of Silver. There is in it a Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin, which they say were painted by St. Luke. The Image of the Virgin, which stands upon the Altar, hath a Garment upon it all co∣vered with Pearles, & upon the Head a Crown of Gold, enriched with Jewells; upon the Top whereof there is a Carbun∣cle of the bigness of an Egg. There is like∣ways shown within the House a little Dish, out of which our Saviour is said to have Eat his Meat whilst he was yet a Babe. People commonly bring their Beads, Me∣dals, & other peeces of Devotion to be put in this Dish, & to touch the other relicts. The Sacristia is well worthy the seeing be∣cause of the Jewels, and other Rich pre∣sents and Ornaments belonging to the House, which are keept there, and have been given and offered continualy, by allmost all Princes and great Persons in

Christendom. The Cellar is likeways worthie the seeing, being exceedingly Large and full of Wines. Amongst o∣thers they ordinarly shew one great Tun out of which they draw 3 or 4 sorts of Wine, some red, some white. The num∣ber of Pilgrims, and other Persons, that out of Devotion resort to this Place, from all the parts of Christendom, is allmost infinit, insomuch that every Day ap∣pears to be a holy Day and the whole Year but one continued Feast. So soon as the Gates are opened in the morning, they begin to enter as it were in Pro∣cession. I believe there are but few In∣habitants in the Town, except a few Trades-men of all sorts, for the Ac∣commodation of Strangers, the greatest part are Merchants, that sell nothing but Beads and peeces of Devotion, such as Medals of Silver, Gold, Brass, Christal &c. Books of Devotion, and such like. There is good Accommodation in the Town, at a reasonable Rate. The City is Commanded by a Governour, who hath his Palace near to the Church.

We were Recommended to him by Car∣dinal Charles Barbarini, and were treat∣ed by him with great Civilitie; his Se∣cretary being commanded to wait upon us, and show us all that was considerable in the place.

After two days stay here we dismissed our Horses that we brought from Rome, and Hyred new ones from Loretto to Bolognia.

From Loretto to Bolognia.

 

Miles

Ancona

15

La casa Brugiata

9

Cenigalia

9

Fano

9

Pesaro

6

Rimini

20

Sanigniana Castello

9

Cesena

10

Furli

10

Faenza

10

Imola

10

St. Nicola Castello

10

Bolognia

10

Ancona is about half a days Journey from Loretto. It is a verie ancient City and the best Sea Port in Italy, at least upon the Adriatick Coast: The Port was Built, at least Restored and Beautified, by Trajan the Emperour, in whose Ho∣nour a most stately Triumphal Arch was Raised upon it, which it yet extant, with this Inscription in Capital Letters. Imp. Caes. di••i Nervae F. Nervae Trajano opti∣mo August. Germanic. Daetico. Pontef. max. Tr. Pot. xix. Imp. xi. Cos. vii. P. P. Providentissimo Princ. S. P. Q. R. Quod adcessum Italiae, Hoc etiam addi∣to ex pecunia sua Portum tutiorem Na∣vigantibus reddiderit. And upon the Right side thereof You may Read this Inscription Plotinoe Aug. Conjugi Aug. And upon the left, Divae Marcian: Aug: sorori August.

Cenigalia is a little Town having a Sea-Port▪ It seems from the name to have been built, and to have belonged to the Galli Cenones.

Fano, Antiently Fanum; because of the Temple of Fortune that stood here; There

is a stately Triumphall Arch of Marble 30, Cubits High. Pesaro is a very Plea∣sant and handsome City having many fine Houses and a Magnificent Palace, It is well Peopled and well Fortified. The Duke of Vrbin, to whom this City did belong, used to pass one half of the Year here; But since his Death without Heirs Male the whole Dutchie is Reunited to the Ecclesiastick state.

Rimini, in Latine Ariminum; is like to be so called from the River Arimine that passes by it. There are severall fair Pala∣ces in it, built by the Mala-testi antient Lords of the Place. There is a Triumph∣al Arch erected in Honour of Augustus, yet extant, and the Ruines of a great Theatre. But the most considerable thing of all is the Bridge, Built of great square Marble stones, of twentie foot in length and 15. in breadth, with five Arches. The Bridge Joynes the Via Flaminia and the Via Emilia together. It is said to have been Built by Tiberius Caesar. In the Mercat place there is to be seen the stone upon which Julius Caesar stood, and en∣couraged

his Officers, when he began the Civil War. This Stone hath this Inscrip∣tion C. Caesar D. Rubicone superato, civili Bello, Comilitones suos hic in for•• Arimi∣nensi adlocutus.

Within a Mile of Cesina, or there a∣bouts, You must pass the Rubicon, which seems to be but a Torrent, and in the Summer time for the most part dry; At the place where You pass there is yet ex∣tant an ancient Pillar, the Inscription whereof hath made the name of Rubicon so famous. it is as follows; Jussu manda∣tuve P. R. Cos. Imp. Myli Tyro Co∣milito manipulariaeve Cent. Turmaeve Le∣gionariae armat quis quis est hic sistito. Vexillum sinito, ne citra hunc amnem Ru∣biconem signa, Arma, ductum, commea∣tum, Exercitum{que} traducito; siquis hu∣jusce Jussionis ergo adversum ierit, fece∣ritve, adjudicatus esto hostis P: R. ac si contra Patriam armaverit, Sacros{que} Pe∣natos e penetralibus asportaverit Sanctio plebisci Senatus.

NE Consulto ultra hos fines Armae pro∣ferre liceat nemini.

S. P. Q. R.

And upon the other side of the Pil∣lar, the following Inscription; Rubiconem ponta subjectum transis viator, Romano interdicto Caesaris ausu, & adagio, Jactae alcae, Celebratum.

Flumini huic stabilem imponere trajec∣tum, Ethnica diu vetuit pavida Supersti∣tio, Catholica nunc suasit socura Religio.

Innocent: X^o Summo Pont: Card: D: Legato 1654.

Furli; in Latine Forum Livii, where there is litle thing considerable except the Market Place.

Faenza; is divided in two by the Ri∣ver Lamone, over which stands a goodly Bridge that Joynes the two parts of the Town together, it is called in Latine Fa∣ventia, and the People Faventini.

The whole way from Ancona to Bo∣lognia is Plain and Smooth, and the Countrey on all sides very Rich and Fertile, but especially near to Bolognia, (which deservedly is called la Crassa) where the whole Countrey, on everie s••de of the high way, looks like Gardens, be∣ing Hedged and closed in on all sides, and Planted with Olive and while Mul∣berry Trees, the Leaves whereof ••erve to the ••eeding of Silk Wormes, and at the Roots of which the Vines being Plant∣ed, run up and spread themselves thorow all the Branches of the Trees, and load them with Grapes. The distance betwixt the Ranges of Trees is Sowen sometimes with Wheat, or other usefull Grain, or Kitchin Herbs and Roots, Nor is there wanting here abundance of the Choisest Fruits that Italy affoords.

Bolognia; is the second Town of the Ecclesiastick State, sweetly situated in a large Plain, near to some Hills at the one side. The City is near two Miles in length and one in breadth, and about 5 Miles in Compass. The Inhabitants are

not esteemed to be under 80 Thousand in number, amongst which it is thought there are two Thousand Gentlemen, whereof many have the Titles of Count and Marques. There is a famous U∣niversity & many fine Colledges worthie to be seen: As also many fine Churches & Religious Houses. The Archdean of the Cathedral of St. Peters, has the Privi∣ledge of making Doctors, above others. In the Church of Corpus Christi, may be seen the intire Body of St. Katharine of Vigri, a Religious Woman of the Order of St. Clare, that Died at Bolognia, in the Year 1463. She sits in a Chair, with a Religious Habit. The Skin of her Face seems to be bent and streacht, her Eyes open, her Hands and Feet bare: In one Hand She holds a Crucifix, the other is placed upon a Pillow. They use in the presence of a great deal of Com∣panie to paire her Nails every Month, and to cut her Hair once a Year, after they are grown. In the Iacobins Church is keept the Head of St. Dominick in a Rich Tabernacle, and his Body in a Cu∣rious

Tomb of white Marble cut in se∣verall figures of Base relieve; In the Choire may be seen the Histories of the New and Old Testament, with wonder∣full Artifice represented in mosaick of of Wood. There is also to be seen here, a rare Peece of Painting, of the Innocents made by Guido Reni; all the parts of this Convent are worthie the taking no∣tice of, the Cloisters, the Dormitories of above 150 Religious, the Refictory Painted by great Masters, the Apothe∣caries Shop, and the Bibliotheck, and the Cellar which is extraordinarly Big.

There be many fine Palaces worthie the seeing, and very well Ornamented within, but especially the Popes own Pa∣lace, where the Legat resides, and in it you must take particular care to see Al∣drovandi's Studie, and Collection of Cu∣riosities, which are keept in this Palace, and commonly intrusted to the Legats Physitian. There is likeways to be seen in the Back Court Aldrovandi's Garden, in which there are some Curious Plants. In the Study you will see a great Her∣ball,

in water Colours, but without any description, as also a whole press full of Manuscripts, written all with his own Hand.

There are severall Towres in the Town, but especially that of Degli Pisanel∣li, which is one of the highest I remember to have ever seen; it stands about the middle of the Town, and near by it there is an other which is not finished, and the reason they give for it is very apparent, that the Builders mistook the perpendicular; when one stands near to it, it is so very crooked that it appears to be just a falling. I had the Curiositie to go as high in the other Towre as I could, and rather because I thought I might more easily discover the situati∣on of the Town, it's avenues, and the Country about, but I had much Reason to repent me: The ladders for the most part being old and rotten, so that I was in continuall apprehension of falling, and one slip would have done my turne as well as a hundred. I shall advise you rather to take the paines to see a Con∣vent,

a little without the Town, toward the Hills, called St. Michaele in Bosco, from whence you will have a most De∣licate Prospect of the Town and Coun∣try about. The Town appears in the form of a Ship, and the Towre Deglipisanelli, may be the maine Mast of it. This Con∣vent is one of the most Glorious in Italy; the Religious are of the Order di Monte Olivetto, there are many other things in the Town worthie the taking notice of, which for brevities sake I omit.

You must not forget to see the Silk-Work, which is a most Curious con∣trivance; it is three or four Storie high, in the Highest Storie there are Innume∣rable Pirns of Silk, which are all moved by the generall Motion that the Wa∣ter gives to some Wheeles below, & there they receive the first Twist; in the Storie next to that, they receive the se∣cond; & in the lowermost Storie the last: which brings it to that form of raw Silk that we commonly see sold.

This Place above all others in Italy,

or in the World, is famous for excel∣lent Soap-Balls, of which you will do well to provide your self abundant∣ly; they will keep in their perfection above 20 Years: You may have them of severall Sizes, bigger or lesser as you please. It is likeways famous for Sassadges, which are the best cetain∣ly in tke World: I have seen of them of 5 Crownes the Peece.

There is good Herbarising towards the Hills, if your leisure can permit you; you may take a Guide along with you. Upon these Hills, you will likeways find that famous Stone called Lapis phosphorus Bononiensis, of which For∣tunatus Lic••t••s hath written a particular Book. It is very hard and Flintie like, but more glistering; when it is calcined 48 hours in a reverberatory Fire & then set to cooll: If you expose it a little to the light and free Air, and on the sud∣den bring it to the dark, it shines for a little while as if it were a Red burning Coale, but there is a kind of efflorescence like Rust or greenish Dust that growes u∣pon

the Top of it, whilst it is a Calci∣neing, which is most effectuall for the shining, and which if it by lost by any Accident, the rest will not be much worth, and for saving of this they use or∣dinarly to fix the Stone in Wax in the bottom of a Box, & so sell them to Stran∣gers, but this way does not secure them, to my certain Experience. The best way is to bring the Stone uncalcined and prepare it at home. I would have you to see an Apothecarie, who is a great Vir∣tuoso especiallie in Plants. He is called Jacomo Zanoni speciale da san Biaggio custode de simplici in Bolog∣nia; I believe he has Published something of Plants by this time, for he shewed me a Number of Brass cutts, which were allreadie Graven, and told me the inten∣tion he had as soon as he could get the rest perfected, to cause print them. If they may be had, I intreat you to pro∣cure me one of them; you will do well to see his Garden, which is very Curious. And the best way to ingage all such Men as he is, is to have allways a Parcell of rare

Seeds with you, and to give them some, by which means you will find them rea∣die to give you whatever they can spare, in like manner.

I shall advise you to Visit the Book∣sellers Shops, concerning which I must give you this generall advice, for find∣ing out Botanick Books, that you take paines to look them all over your self; for many times the Book-sellers do not know their names. You will find here Panacea ex herbis quae a Sanctis denomi∣nantur Item Historia & Icones Capsico∣rum Bartholomaei Ambrosini in 80. Bono∣niae 1630. also Hyacinthi Ambrosini hor∣tus Studiosorum & Novarum Plantarum hactenus non S••ulptarum Historia in 40. Bononiae 1657. But above all I must in∣treat you to buy me Aldrovandus's works, which ate 13 or 14 Tomes in Folio; you may buy them in Sheets, and have them packt up in your own things for Venice, where you will not fail to meet with frequent Occasions of sending them for London. I believe they will not cost a∣bove 18 or 20 Crowns. and if they do I shall be readie to allow it.

It will not be a miss here, if you think fit, to go by Land to Modena, Parma and Piatzena and returne by the River Po to Ferrara: But because I had not the Fortune to see them my self, I shall not say any thing of them, but returne to Ferrara, which is not above half a Days Journie, or thereabouts, from Bolognia.

Ferrara, is situated in a large Plain about half a mile distance from the Po. It be∣longs to the Ecclesiastick State, and is governed by the Popes Legate. The Streets, Houses and Places, are very handsome & fine, as also the Churches & Religious Houses. In the Monasterie of S. Bennet, you may see the Sepulchre & Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariosto. It hath a verie strong and well contrived Cittadale.

From hence you go to Venice by Wa∣ter, that is in an open Boat, by a Canale near to the side of the Po, where ye im∣barke in a bigger Vessel, which goes con∣stantly twice a Week to Venice. If the Wind be favourable, you will easily ac∣complish the Voyage in 10 or 12 houres

time, but if otherways, you may be longer, and therefore you will do well to make Provision of Victuals, to take along with you. When you Arrive at Venice, it will be needfull to Lodge in a conveni∣ent Place of the Town, and for that end, you will do well to provide your self of a Recommendation to the English Con∣sul; from Rome or from Bolognia. Giles Jones was Consul in my time, and en∣tertained Lodgers himself, he was a ve∣rie honest Man, and did faithfullie send my things to London, according to the address I gave him. When you are set∣led in a Lodging, It will be time to take a View of the Town, for the doing of which and considering it well, 3 or 4 Weeks is little enough. Nothing in Nature can appear more prodigious than to see a Vast big Town seated in the mid∣dle of the Sea; everie House whereof at one side or another is touched by the Water, and the nearest Land being 4 or 5 Miles distance. It was built at first u∣pon the little Island of Rialto in the Year 421, perhaps later by the Inhabitants of the

firm Land that were chaced from their own homes by Attila King of the Huns, & forced to make choice of this place for their safety; since that time they have built upon 70 or 71 Isles more, which are joy∣ned together by upwards of 450 Bridges. The Town is about 8 Miles in compass. There are but few Streets built on both sides, except some open places. The most part of the Streets have a Canale or Ditch in the middle, by which the Gondols pass, which is a great commo∣ditie, for there is scarce a House in the Town, but one may be carried this way, either close to it or within a few steps of it. The Canals are different in breadth, some more some less large, the narrowest is broad enough for one Gondole to go by another; It is remarkable, that the Water Ebbs and Flowes here 4 or 5 foot, which is not observed in the Adriatick farther down towards Naples, nor in a∣ny other Port of the Mediterranian Sea; The Gondals are believed to be above fourteen or fifteen thousand in Number; they are small tight Boats much cleaner &

finer than Oares upon the Thames, having a prettie Tilt over the seat where the Passin∣gers sit, & will be able to accommodat 5 or 6 Persons: It is usual for Gentlemen or Persons of Qualitie to have their own Gondols, and those Richer than the or∣dinary; some are rowed by one, some by two, and it is somewhat extraordinary that the Rower does not sit within the Boat, but stands upon one side of it, and lookes the same way that he rows. At the tur∣ning of any Corner, after they come with∣in such a distance of it, they are oblig∣ed to cry, to give notice to the Gondols on the otherside whom they cannot see, and he that cryes first hath this advan∣tage, that he turnes close by the corner, and the others are obliged to give him way and take it larger: And I assure you it is no small wonder to me that there being so many corners to tur••e, and so continuall and frequent intercourse of Gondols going some the one way, and some the other; and in the dark as well in the Day: there should be so few Ac∣cidents of running one another down, e∣speciallie,

considering with what swift∣ness thay go. The largest Canale, called Canale grande, is about 13 or 14 hun∣dred paces in length; & fourtie in breadth, and divides the Town as it were in two. The Bridge of the Rivo alto, or as it is commonlie pronounced Rialto, is one of the most magnificent Structures in the Citie: it consists but of one Arch, & yet is said to have cost above 250 thousand Duckets; at the one end of the Bridge, there are three large Streets divided by 2 rowes of Houses, which are so many Merchant shops. This serves for the Ex∣change, where the Merchants meet about Noon to do their affairs.

There are so manie things considerable in this Place that it is difficult to compre∣hend them in this short Narration, and therefore I shall onlie name a few of them, and leaue the rest to your particular in∣quirie, which will not be hard for you to make, when you are upon the place. Be pleased then first to take notice among the Churches of that of St Mark, which properlie, is onlie the Dukes Chapel be∣longing

to the Palace of St. Mark, whose Bodie being brought from Alexandria is preserved here; The Church has 24 Cha∣noines belonging to it under one Head, called Primicero. He is commonlie chosen by the Doge, and wears the Mi∣ter and other Ornaments of a Bishop, & uses to give his Benediction to the People as Bishops do. The inside of the Church is of Marble of diverse sorts, and all ve∣rie fine, with above 40 Marble Pillars; It is paved with Porphire, Serpentine &c. in Mosaick Work; Upon the Top of the great Altar, there is a Globe enriched with a great number of Pearles and other Jewels of price; The Roof of the Church consists of 5 Cupula's covered with lead; It hath 5 Doors of Brass, and over the great entrie on the outside there stands four Delicat Horses, equal in bigness to the Natural, of Brass Guilded, which at first were placed upon the Triumphal Arch of Nero, after he subdued the Parths, but were afterward carried to Constanti∣nople, when the Seat of the Empire was removed from Rome and at last brought

hither by the Venetians when they took Constantinople. 2ly. That which is most worthie of the seeing (it may be in all the World) is the Treasure of St. Mark, where amongst other things you will see 12 Royal Crowns & 12 Breast Plates of Gold, ful of Pearles and Jewels; taken as they say at Constantinople; And the Traditi∣on is, that they were the Ornaments of the 12 Maids of Honour that waited upon St. Helena Mother to Constantine the Emperour; several Rubies weighing 8 Ounces a Peece, and a Saphir that weighs ten Ounces; two Unicorns Horns; se∣verall Vessels of Precious Stones▪ as A∣gat, J••spir &c; one of Emerauld which a King of Persia presented the Senat with. One of one single Turkis; another capable to hold a Scots Quart of one single Granat; The Tiar or Bonnet wherewith the Duke is Crowned, is Garnished with Jewels of inestimable price; There is a vast deal of other Riches, which I cannot particu∣larly remember; There is likewa••s to be seen the Picture of the blessed Virgin done by St Luke. The Acts of the A∣postles

writen in golden Letters by the hand of St John Chrysostome, Patriarch of Con••tantinople. It will be worth your while to go to the Top of the Steeple, from whence you will have a delicat Prospect of the whole City and Neighbouring Islands, of a part of Lumbardie, of the severall Mouths of the River Po, The Hills of ••tria; & the Sea about▪ 3ly: The Palace of St Mark, whereof the Arches, Pillars, Halls and Chambers are all most Statelie, especialy the great Halls, which are Painted by the greatest Masters of their time; for the fetter understanding of which, it will be fitt, that you get a Printed Invento∣rie ••f all the particular Ornaments of this Palace.

4ly, The Piazza of St Marco, which is one of the Largest and finest that can be 〈◊〉〈◊〉 in any Town in Italy; being com∣••••••sed with most Stately and regular Buildings▪ with large Arches and Porti∣c••es to walk in, in the time of Heat or Rain▪ with all sorts of Merchandise and Trades. This Place is the most diver∣ticeing in all Venice, for here you may

see People of many Nations with different Habits. At that end of that place which lookes to the Sea, there stands two Marble Pillars, each of them of them one Peece, of a great hight and bigness, at a reasonable Distance one from another. Upon the Top of the one is placed a flying Lion guilded, which is the Armes of Venice, and the Symbole of St Mark; Upon the Top of the other the Statue of St Theodore gilded. Betwixt these Pillars, Justice is usuallie done upon Male-factors. About the middle of the place stands 3 verie Tall Poles like unto Ships Masts, whereupon the Standards of the Republick are di∣splaied at great Solemnities. On that side of the place, which is opposit to the Dukes Palace, stands the Mint-House, a verie goodlie Fabrick, composed of Stone and Iron, without any Wood at all. 5ly. The Arsenal, which is the largest and best Furnished in the World; it is strongly Walled about, and the Sea drawn about it likeways. There are fifteen or sixteen hundred Men constantly at Work, be∣sides

Old Men, who are not able to work, but intertained for instructing the younger. Here are keept all sort of Amunitions of War both for Sea & Land, in vast Quantities, and in that good Or∣der, that I have heard some confident∣lie say, that there were Workmen with∣in the Arsenal, that were able to build a Gally, and reik her out compleatly in one Hours time; which if it be true, argues a great deal of sharpness in the Work∣men, and readiness of the Materials.

There are severall lesser Islands at some distance from the Town, worthie to be seen, and particularlie, 1. Murain a∣bout a Mile Northward from the City. It is well built and many good Houses in it; It is in this Island, that all those fa∣mous Crystall Glasses so much talked of, and so much sought after throughout the World, are made. It is observed here, that the Glass-works succeed much better on the one side of the Street than on the other. They have likeways a great Art of whitneing Wax, which is observed to succeed better in this Island

than any other place in or about the City. There are abundance of Oysters likeways in this Island; they ordinarly keep them in Baskets near the Shoare, to have them in readiness when they are called for, but in my opinion they are neither so pleasant, no•• so wholesome as at Lighorn and other places, especiallie being eaten raw, for I have often found the eating of them so, to give a verie troublesome Flux of the Belly to severall Persons. 2ly. The Isle of St Helena, where there is a verie statelie Monasterie & Church, with Monks of the Order of Mont O∣livet. In this Church is keept the Body of the Emperess St Helena. This Isle lyes to the Eastward of the Town, and about two Miles further the same way, stand the two Forts del L••do and Casiel∣novo, which both defend them selves mutuallie, and secure the entrie to the City from Enemies in time of War▪ 3ly. Malamocco, where all Ships and Vessels of anie considerable Burden do Arrive because of the deepness of the Har∣bour. 4ly. The Isle of St. George, lying

just before the place of St. Mark, at half a Miles distance, where there is an Abbace of the Order of St. Benedict, with a most Stately and Glorious Church, together with a Garden and fair Walks, which is thought no small thing in that Place.

Altho' a Traveller cannot be alltoge∣ther sure of his times, there being so many Contingencies that may force him either to Arive too soon or too late; yet it were to be wished that a Man might happen to be at Venice in the time of Carnoval, because of the Opera's and fine shows that are to be seen, and the Extraordi∣narie Musick at that time. In the Sum∣mer time the great Divertisement is to go in Gondole upon the great Canale, where towards the Evening, one may see Five, or six hundred Gondols touring up and down, full of Ladies and Gentlemen, & severalls of them with Musick, both Vo∣cal and Instrumental; which is one of the greatest Gusto's imaginable.

You cannot miss to meet with a great many Curiosities here, both Natural and

Artif••cial, because of the great resort that Strangers have to this Place, espe∣ciallie from the Levant; you will find Medals, Intaleo's, Chamaeo's &c. amongst the Goldsmiths. I have seen severall Cu∣riosities to sell in the place of St. Mark, and sometime within the Court of the Pa∣lace, and in many other corners through∣out the City. You may meet with ma∣by Curiosities of Glass, that are both use∣full and delightfull. It will be worth your while to Visit the Book-sellers Shops, for besides many Curious Books, that you may light upon here, and particu∣larly of Botany; you may likeways find verie many Books, that are prohibited in many other places of Italy. Be plea∣sed to inquire diligently for a thin 40. called Trattato de simplici Pietre. & pesci marini che nascono del lito di Venetia di Antonio Donati Farmacopeo all'insegn•• di St. Liberale in Venetia 1631. Printed by Pietro Maria Bertano. Donati him∣self was Dead before I came thither, but I found out his Brother, a Man of the

same Profession and living at the same place, but nothing knowing in Simples. After I had told him the respect I had for his Brothers Memorie, and my regrate for the loss of so worthie a person; he was pleased to show me a great many Brass-Plates of so many Plants not yet descri∣bed, together with their description done by his Brother; I am confident were they Published, they would make a bigger Vo∣lume than the first. They were in Con∣fusion when I saw them, but I put them in Order and prayed him to keep them so, untill he should find the opportuni∣tie of printing them, which I found him willing to do at his own Expense, nor to trust it with an other, least his Bro∣thers name should have been stolen from it. If it be not as yet printed, you may see what you can do, either to purchase the Manuscript and Plates, or promise the printing of it.

There are many Virtuosi in the City, that have great Collections of fine things which you may be pleased to inquire af∣ter and see.

From Venice you have twentie five Miles to Padua, whereof fo••r by Berg to the Terra ferma, and the rest you go by Boat, drawen with Horses by the River Brent, which is a most pleasant and soft running River, having plain, Fertile & most delicious Fields on either side, full of Villages & pleasure-Houses, to which the Inhabitants of Venice use to resort in the Summer-Time.

The River runs not all of a Levell, & therefore there are three or four Locks or Sluces, by means whereof, at severall places the River is made portable; which otherways it would not be. There is such an other Lock upon the Canale of Briar, near to Montargis in France. You will more easilie understand the manner of them by seeing them, than by any de∣scription I can make of them.

Padua, in Latine Pattavium. Is a very Ancient and Large Town; famous over the World, for its Vniversity; whence it is called Padua la dotta. There are many things considerable in the Town fit to be seen and take notice of. As 1. The

Churches as namely that of S. Sophia, that of Justino, which is all Pavemented with white & red Marble; there is an Abbacy joyning to it of the Order of St. Benedict; the Reformation of which Order did begin first here. It was Anciently the Temple of Concord. The place before the Church is very large & spacious. They say ten Thousand Men might be drawn up within it. The Church of St. Antonia de Lisbon, is notably designed, and hath many Rich things belonging to it; many Relique's, but amongst others the most considerable is the Body of St. Antonia, commonly called of Padua, because he Died and was in••erred here. There is great a Devotion payed to this Sainct, and a great con∣course dayly to the place, as well of the Inhabitants of the Town, as of Pilgrims that come from other places. They use to kiss the Marble-Stone that covers his Se∣pulchre; and they say it smels of Musk. 2ly. The palace of Justice, which is most stately. The Stairs are all of Marble cover∣ed with Lead without the support of a∣ny Pillar. The great Hall is 256 foot in

length, and 86 foot in breadth, and very well painted, and at the end of it, that Statue of Titus Livius, whose Tomb is likeways to be seen in the Town. 3ly. The Schooles, which is a very stately Fabrick, being a 4 square court, where you will see a great many of the Statues or Busta's, Names & Arms of so many Consuls, that have been of the several Nations that compose the Vniversity; the Scholars here have large Priviledges, and many times abuse them, and become very insolent, insomuch that they have been sometimes known to threaten the Podesta himself or Governour of the Town; they have, likeways a beastly custome of carrieing Arms in the Night, insomuch that it is never safe to be abroad after it hegins to be Dark, for many are this way unhap∣pity Murthered without any Offence given or taken, but only by wantoness, or ra∣ther Wickedness of the Scholars. 4ly. The Physical Garden, which is exceeding∣ly fine, not so much for the number as rareness of the Plants. You may easily make your addrefs to the Professor that

keeps the Garden who in my time was the Excellentissimus Signeur Tore, but the Gardener will be sufficient to do your turn, for in giving him a small peece of Mony, you will command both Seeds, Plants, and all that he hath. We have a very worthie Gentleman of our Coun∣trie, called Doctor Cadenhead; in my time he was Publick Professor of Logick nel Bo, which is the Publick Schooles. He is a most courteous and obliging Gentleman, and will be ready to do you all the kind∣ness's Imaginable. 5ly. You may see the Hospitals for sick Folk, and many other things, which for Brevities sake I omit, only I intreat you be at the paines to Visit the Book-sellers Shops; and if there be any new thing in Physick, since the 62 or 63 Year of God, I intreat you to bring them along with you for me, espe∣cialy if there be any thing of Rhodius, who hath promised us his commenta••s upon Cornelius Celsus long ago.

If you please, you may make a little Journey to the Euganean Hils, which are not far from P••dua. There is very good

Herborsing upon them. It will be worth your while, likeways to see Abbano, a Village 3. or 4 Miles distant from Padua; famous for its Natural Baths. At the end of the Village there is a little rising or know; upon the Top of which there are a great many Springs of hot Water, some where of are scalding hot. The Wa∣ter is convoyed by little Conduits to several Houses about, where Baths are keept for sick People, but the greater part of it is convoyed the other way by a trough, where, at the distance of a Musket shot, it moves a Milne. The water it self is whitish, having a white slimy sub∣stance in it, which it deposes every where, where it runs, and which in process of time becomes as hard as a Stone; in so much that the Miln-Wheel, and all the Wood that is toucht by it, becomes cru∣sted as it were with Marble; and if it be not broken of timeously, it stops the Motion of the Wheel just as I••eicles use to do with us. The Country about Pa∣dua is very Plain and exceedingly Fer∣tile, insomuch that they use to say, B••∣lognia

la grassa, ma Padua la passa; yet the Wine is not good, but a red small Claret-Wine such as they use at Venice for ordinarie drink. When you ha•••• past some time at Padua, and satisfied your self, of all that is to be seen and known there, it will be time to set ••or∣ward for Milan.

From Padua to Verona.

 

Mil••s

Vicenza

17

Montebello

12

Scaldere

10

Veron••

12

In going from Padua to Vicenza, you will do well to turne a little out of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 way to see a place called Gus••••so, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 is a House of Pleasure belonging to a ••••r∣••ticular Person, where, besides many ••••∣riosities, of Gardens &c. there is p••••ti∣cular wayes of conveying the Win•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Caves below to the upper 〈◊〉〈◊〉

which makes a Delicat Fresco in the grea∣test heats of Summer. It stands at the foot of a very great Mountain, under which are the vastest and biggest Caves I ever saw; but seem not to be Natural, but rather Quarries, out of which the greatest part of the Stone that Vicenza has been built with, has been taken. In one place of these Caves, there is a little Well made by the Water that drops from the Top of the Cave, which petrifies any Wood, Straw &c. that lyeth any time in it, and yet the Water keeps clear it self, with∣out congealing. Near to the City of Vi∣cenza, upon your left hand, you wil see a delicat Peece of Architecture, made by the famous Architect Vinogli, which is like∣ways designed in his Book; It is only a House of Pleasure, and stands upon a considerable hight from the City, disco∣vering all the Country round about.

Vicenza is a good large Town, having many fine Churches and Palaces, with a large place for Tilting and other Exercises: there is likeways in it a Noble Theatre built by Vinogly: the Country about is exceed∣ingly

Fertile, and abounds with all sort of good Fruit, and is therefore called the Garden of Venice.

Verona is an easie days Journey from Vicenza; It is an Ancient City, large and well built, having many stately Pa∣laces, Churches &c. & an old Amphitheatre, yet more intire than any other in Italy. The Town is divided in two by the River A∣dice, it is wel Fortified, having 13 Roy∣al Bastions, and three Castles; the two parts of the Town, are conjoyned by 4 large Stone Bridges. There is excellent Herborizing upon the Hils near to the City, but especially upon the Monte baldo, which is about 20 Miles distant from this City, and which is described at great length by Joannes Pona, whose Book I suppose you have seen. The Palace del Conte Justi, is worthie the seeing, toge∣ther with the Gardens and Grotta's. A∣mongst the rest, there is one of a Reaso∣nable Capacitie built with that Artifice, that four Persons being placed in the four Corners, may speake each of them to his Neighbour in the opposit Corner,

and yet not be heard by those that stand in the middle between them. In the Pa∣lace of the Signeur Conte Gregorio Bevi∣la••••••▪ there is a Gallerie, in which you may see a great many fine Pictures, Statues, Medals, and other Rarities.

••rom Verona you pass by la peso••eira, which is a strong Fort, upon the River 〈◊〉〈◊〉 issues from the lago di Garda: from 〈◊〉〈◊〉 you go to Dissanzano, which tho' 〈…〉〈…〉 big Town, but rather a Village, I look upon it as one of the pleasantest 〈◊〉〈◊〉 in Italy; being upon the side of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 lago di Garda, a Lake not so 〈◊〉〈◊〉 as long, for in length it reaches to 〈…〉〈…〉 Rhetici. The Country about 〈…〉〈…〉 and Fertile, and the Lake it 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ••••ounds with all sorts of Excellent 〈◊〉〈◊〉 such as Pykes, Pearches, red and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Trouts &c. and of all there are 〈◊〉〈◊〉 very big. In my time there was 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ••rench-man, that keept a very good 〈◊〉〈◊〉, where we had excellent Fare 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of fish and Flesh, and the best Wine 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the whole State of Venice, and all at 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Rate.

From Dissanzano, you go to Bre••cia, which is not above half a days Journey distant from Dissanzano. It is a large and very strong Town, especialy the Ca∣stle thereof placed upon a Hill, that Com∣mands the Town. It is famous for ma∣king of Guns, and Pistols, especialy the Cannons of them, which are the best I ever saw by farr. If you have the op∣portunity of carriage, it would be worth your while to make Provision for your self here. If you resolve to make your return, not to Lions but, throw Switzer-Land and Germany, down the Rhen, & so throw Flanders and Holland, then it will be fitt when you are at Bol••gnia to go up the Po, by Modena, Parma, Piazz••nza, and so to Millan, and from thence to Turrin, and then back to Mil∣lan again, and so returne by the other way of Bergamo, Brescia, Dissanzano, Verona, Vicenza and Padua to Venice, by which means you will not only see the sweetest and most Fertile places of Lum∣bardie, but also have the commoditie of bringing what ever you find in all that

way to Venice, from whence it may easily be Convoyed into England. From Bres••i•• to Bergamo you have a dayes Journey: You must Dine at a Place called Pallazolo; It is a little inconsiderable Town. I re∣member we had a Letter of Recommen∣dation from the Duke of Norfolks Ma∣jor-Domo at Padua, to a Gentleman in this place, who was exceedingly Civil to us & sent us a Present of excellent Wine, & (which was of farr greater importance to us) gave us the assurance of the peaceable∣ness of the Countrey & security of Travell∣ing, which sometimes is not without the danger of being robbed; it being near the Frontiers of the state of Millan: & in such cases, it is usual for Rogues, when they have done a Mischief to pape into the next state, where the Laws of the other State cannot reach them. The project of our recommendation, was to have been conducted by this Gentleman on our way; if there had been any such need. He willingly profered it, but we, upon the assurance he gave us did as willingly deny to accept it.

Bergamo is situated upon the side of a Hil, Fortifie with 9 Bastions besides the Castle, which is extreamly strong. There is, as I take it, in the Dominicans a Rare Bibli∣otheque, Collected by the great expense of Alexander Martinengo, You will do well here to exchange all your Venetian Money into Spanish Money, & such as will pass into the State of Millan. You have a Days Journey from hence to Millan, and must Dine at a Place called Villa nova: as soon as ye have Dined, you pass the River Tesin: And then enter the State of Millan.

As you enter the State of Millan, you will find some Searchers or wayters of the Custom-House, to whom you must give some small thing to let your Baggage pass, or else you may be troubled with them.

The State of Millan, altho' but small in extent, is yet one of the pleasantest & Fertilest places in Italy. The Country is very Plain. The High-ways for the most part very large and straight, plant∣ed with Trees and Hedges, on every side,

and having Canales of water, for the most part, on every side; and Travellers have this Advantage also to meet with better Inns and better accommodation here than on any other Road in Italy. The Inha∣bitants are not given to mutiny and Re∣bellion as those of Naples, but willingly submit to their Prince. It is said that the King of Spaine Governs the Kingdom of Sicilie with mildness: Naples with subtilitie and the Dutchie of Millan with Authoritie. They say likeways that the inferior Governours of Sicilie, only but Gentlie: Those of Naples eat lustilie, but that in Millan they devoure. I have observed throughout all Italy, that the greatest part of the Inn-keepers and Ta∣verners even in Rome it self are Mila∣nese: as also that the greatest part of the Masons that serve all Italy, are of this Countrie: and it is a verie great Mark both of their love to their Countrie and loyaltie to their Prince, that when they are not able to get so much by staying at home, as to entertain their Wives and Children, and pay Publick Burdens, they

are contented to live abroad most part of their lives, and returne that home which they Gaine abroad; for they ne∣ver carrie their Wives with them, nor Children till they be able to Gaine for themselves: Onlie it may be they make them a Visit sometimes. The Citie of Millan, which is Capital of the Dutchie, is one of the stateliest in Italy: it is near ten Miles in compass, but a considerable part of it, especiallie toward the Walls, is Gardens. The Streets are large & hand∣some; Many statelie Churches and Pa∣laces: But I shall Mark them a little more particularly as I have done in other Towns: And 1. to begin with the Churches, It is said there are above 230 in the Citie and Suburbs, whereof 96 are parochial: 40 Convents of Religi∣ous Men, and 50 of Religious Women. The Cathedral Church called il Domo, is one of the greatest and most Glorious in Italy except St. Peters at Rome. It is intirely built of white Marble within & without, but that which is to be pitied is, that the design is Gothick; it is not yet

quite finished; but they are still at work, and you may guess when they are like to come to an end, they haveing been up wards of 200 Years at work allreadie. There are above 600 Marble statues a∣bout the Walls, everie one of which cost at least 1000 Crowns, amongst which the statue of Adam and St. Bartholomew are much esteemed, especiallie the latter which is thought to be one of the best in Europe. The Pend of the Church is supported by 160 white Marble Pil∣lars, each of them of that bigness, that scarcelie can three Men fathom them. It is believed that they stand not under 10000 Crowns a peece. All the rest of the parts of the Church are correspondent in Magnificenee, only it appears to me to be somewhat darker than need were. Amongst many other things that are considerable in this Church is the Body of St. Charles Boromeus in a Chappel un∣der Ground. It hath a Lamp burning before it, and you look down through an Iron Tirles from the Church to see it. You may see the Head and Feet, but the

rest of the Bodie is covered with his pon∣tificall Habit. There is a rich Treasure belonging to the Church, where you will see, amongst other things▪ a Silver statue of the same St. Charles in his Pon∣tifical Habit, with many precious Stones of great Value upon the Myter thereof. It was presented by the Jewellers and Goldsmiths of Millan. In the Church of St. Ambrose, you may see a Pillar in the middle of the Church, upon which stands the Brazen Serpent that Moses elevated in the Wilderness. You may likeways see two statelie Tombs, one of the Em∣perour Luis, and the other of Pepin King of Italy, both Sons of Charles the Great. Here also you may see the Chapel where St. Augustine was Baptized. In the Church of St. Satyre, upon the great Altar there is a Picture of the blessed Virgin with the Babe Jesus in her Armes, of which they tell a wonderfull Story, that it being placed upon the Church-Yard-Wall, a certain Gamester called Massario Vigonzonio, being mad to have lost his Money, struck the little Jesus with a poy∣nard,

whereupon immediately there gusht out abundance of Blood, after which it was placed upon the great Altar where it is yet to be seen.

2ly. The Palaces; amongst the rest that of the Governour.

3ly. The Hospitals; which are said to entertain above 9000 poor People all the Year long, at the expence of the Pu∣blick. That which is called the great Hospital, entertaines alone more than 4000, and so it may, for it has three Score ten Thousand Crowns of Yearlie revenue. The Lazaretto is a kind of Hospital without the Walls, It is a large Square court about a Mile in Compass, not unlike the form of the Carthusians Houses; that are divided into so many little appartments. The chief Design & use of it, is in the time of the Plague: at other times it stands emptie, only some few persons that have the keeping of it, remaine there.

4ly. The places in the Town; chiefly the Exchange, where the Merchants meet; there you will see the statue of St▪

Augustin, and the place where he taught Rhetorick before his conversion to the Christian Faith.

5ly. St. Ambrose's Bibliotheck, where not only these Books that belonged to St. Ambrose himself, but many other Books that have been presented since, are kept.

6ly. Septalie's Galerie. This Man∣fredo Septali, is Son to that famous Phy∣sician Ludovicus Septalius, who hath written many things, & learnedly in Phi∣losophie and Medicine. He is at present one of the Canons of the great Church; And one of the greatest Vir∣tuosi in Italy. His Studie of Books con∣sists of 2 or 3 Roomes. His Galerie of Curiosities of three Roomes. The Cu∣riosities are both Natural and Artificial, of so great a Number and Varietie, that I must not insist upon particulars; but only refer you to the description there∣of in Latine by Paulus Maria Tersagus, the Book is in 40. Dertono 1664, and bears the name of Musaeum Septalianum. He hath also an other Room or two, full

of working Tooles, ••ome for turning, o∣thers for Grinding of optick Glasses of all sorts and Fashion; and here you will see a great Variety of Musical Instruments. Most part of the Booksellers live near to the Exchange, but their Magasins are in severall other places of the Town; you must be carefull to see them all. You will undoubtedly find some to please, on which perhaps you will not readily fall else where.

You will meet with many Curiosi∣ties in this place, especiallie of Cristal, brought hither from the Alps, and a Thousand Conceits, most delicatly wrought of Straw. I have heard of peeces of Cristal, with severall shapes re∣presented within them naturally, as of Trees, Flees, &c. others with a drop of water within them, that one might per∣ceive to move, but is was not my Fortune to light on any such.

7ly. The Castle of Milan, is one of the greatest Forts in Italy, with six Roy∣al Bastions, a large Fossey full of running water, and within it a second Wall of

strength. The Place within will admit of 6000 Men to be drawn up, It has a∣bove 200 peece of Cannon▪ all sorts of Ammunition and 600 Spaniards in Ga∣rison. It has a Water Miln within it for Grinding of Corn, which is moved by the running Water that fills the Ditches.

At a Miles distance from the Town, there is a Privat Gentlemans House, where the Echo is so excellent that it re∣peats above 40 times, which you may try, ether by speaking Loud or otherways with a Trumpet; but the surest way is with Pistol Shot, for then you may distin∣ctly tell to 40, one after another.

The Carthusians have a stately Mona∣stery at 10 Miles distance from Millan, wihin five Miles of Pavia, which hath 500000 Crowns of Yearly revenue; The Monks use to entertain Strangers for one Night. The Church is of a most Delicat Fabrick and very Rich. If you please you may go from hence to Pavia, Anciently Ticinum, and afterward called Pavia. The Town is very strong and stands upon the Tesin▪

It is the Chief Vniversity of the Dutchie of Millan, but because I was not in it my self I cannot say much of it, only I have heard that in the great place of the City stands the Brazen Statue of the Em∣perour Constantine, or as some think of Antoninus, very much esteemed. If you list to go thither I believe it may be well worth your seeing, because of the Vni∣versity, for, for any thing I know, there may be both good Books, and a Physical Gar∣den there.

From Millan to Turin, you have about 73 Miles.

From Millan to Turin.

Buffalora

9

Novara

16

Vercelli

15

S. Germano

13

Ci••uas

10

Turin••

10

You have two Rivers to pass, by Boat

viz. the Dorn, after you pass Vereelli and the Tesin near to Ci••uas: Near to Vercelli you enter into Piedmont, & there you will meet with waiters or Customers to whom you must give some thing, and before this time it will be fitt that you have changed all your Spanish Money ex∣cept it be Pistols, or half Pistols of Gold, for these will pass any where, either in Piedmont or France. When you Arrive at Turin you will think your self allrea∣dy in France, for their Apparel, Customs and Discourse, are almost altogether French.

Turin, Augusta Taurinorum is the Ca∣pital City of Piedmont, and is situated in a Plain about 20 Miles distant from the Alps; having the Po on the one side and the Dorn on the other. The Dukes of Savoye keep their Court here, and have made it both very pleasant & very strong: There is the old and new City, which is very well and regularly built. It is com∣passed with Royal Bastions, and Walls. It hath a Citadale, consisting of 5 strong Bastions. They say it is after the Mo∣del

of the Citadale of Antwerp. The great Church is called the Domo, where a∣mongst other relicts is keept and had in Veneration the Sanctum Sudarium, upon which the Visage of our Saviour & the greatest part of his Body is impressed. There is a famous Vniversity here, & this is said to be the first Town in Italy that had the first use of Printing. The Castle serves now the Duke for a Palace. There is a rare Galerie to be seen, with many fine Pictures, Antick Statues &c. and a great Collection of Manuscrips. Amongst the new Buildings the Royal Place is con∣siderable; the walks thereof being full of Shops and Merchandice of all sorts. You may likeways see the Valentine, which is a beautifull Palace, built by Madam Royal a little beneath the Town upon the Bank of the Po▪ In the Suburbs of the Po, there is a House called Albergo wor∣thie the seeing, because of the many ex∣cellent Manufactories of Silk, and other Stuffs that are made there.

I leave the rest to your own observa∣••ion, that I may haste to bring you over ••he Alps; the ordinarie way is to Tra∣••el with the Messenger to Lions or to Ge∣••eva. We came to Lions. It is a Jour∣••ey of 8 or 9 dayes. The first day we ••arted from Turin about ten a Clock in ••he forenoon, and came to lye all Night ••ome 10 or 12 Miles from Turin, having ••llready entered into one of the Vallies ••hat leads to the foot of the Hill; the next day we Dined at an other little Village hard by the foot of the Hill, cal∣••ed Monte Cene, here we hired Mulets to ••arrieus up the Hill; it being impossible for our Horses to do it. You must likeways ••ire Men to carrie you down on the other side of the Hill, because it is a great deal too far to walk, and the way that the Horse goes, is farr about, because of the steepness of the Hill. And yet I mnst tell you that the Hill is three times steeper and less accessible on the Italian side than on the French side. As you mount the Hill, at first you will find the soyle somewhat fertile at least wayes for

pasturage and abundance of Wood; but when you are ••ot higher you will find nothing but Rocks, & Shrubs, here & there; there is a little beck in the face of the Hill, where there stands a few Houses, or rather corbie nests; a habitation which some People have chosen for the bene∣fit they may make by Accommodating Strangers that pass that way, for they are all Victualing-Houses, and (as I take it) a Smith or two. When you pass this and continue still to Mount, you will be about the middle Region of the Air, and it's a hundred to one; but you may see Clouds enough beneath you, & it may be the Rain falling from them; and then you will begin to find it cold what ever time of the Year it be, and the the higher you go it will still▪ be the ••older, till you come to the very highest pitch you are to go, and there you will meet with a little House, in which one can scarce stand upright, where, if you have leisure, you will get some Bread & Drink to buy; they usually have white Hares and white Partridges to sell, and

as usuall it is for Strangers to buy them for curiosities sake, & have them dressed at their next Lodging. From this you have a Plain of above half a mile in length, which for the most part is co∣veted with Snow, except in the heat of Summer and then it will be green in some places that are most exposed to the Sunn. The great Pike of the Hill, which yo•• leave upon the right hand as you enter the plain, is above two miles high∣er, and perpetualie covered with deep Snow. About the middle of the plain stands the ruin of a great House, which Madam Ro••al began to build, but whi∣ther she finished it or not, I cannot tell; however I am sure nothing but omnipo∣tencie could make a House resist the Rage of so much Wind and Storm, as that Place is Subject to. When you come to the end of the plain, there is an other little Victualling House, but it was Desolate, when I pass'd. You quite your moulets at the entrie into the Plain, and take your own Horses, and here you quite them again, and leave your Mes∣senger to wait upon them to the bottom

of the Hill, the best way he can, and permit your self to be carried by two men which came along with you (for according to the number of the Companie there comes two for one from the Italian side, as I hinted at before) It is a kind of Barrow, with a litle Seat, & a back at it, with two little handles to hold by, & a foot board for streaching your limbs before you, tyed at both ends with a peece of small Rope, that they set ••ou upon; & then carrie you the nearest way down the Hill, which you would think steep enough for Goats to climb. They go at the Rate of an Ordinary Horse trot, & as they go will trist the stones to step upon, which lye confusedly here and there, as exactly as if they were a paire of stairs and yet they will not fall once in 500 times, and if they should it would be a fall without any great Perill. But indeed the danger on the Italian side is much greater; there being great Precipices on the one hand, where into, if one should fall it were impossible to escape, insomuch that I have often wondred how any Body durst

adventure to climb upon a Beasts back: and yet is admirable to see with it what dexteritie these poor Moulets pick out their way, where scarce any man could crawle all four, & how sure footed they are. But I must returne to the French side, where you may pay off your porters when they have brought you to your Lodging at a little Village near to the foot of the Hill. The ordinarie rate is a Crown a Head that is, half a Crown to every Porter.

I have told you the way of passing the Mount Cene at such Seasons, of the Year, as there is little or no Snow: But in the Winter time when the Snows are fallen the Passage is much more uneasie & un∣safe, especiallie if they be newly fallen, and the paths not trod; for then it is not only impossible to go without 2 or 3 Guides, that in case one should drop throw the Snow there may be more hands to let fall a Rope and bring him up a∣gain; for sometimes that will happen, as when a Courier is necessitat to pass up∣on important affairs, & any of the Guides chance to mistake a step, he will some

times slip down 100 fathom or two. But this is not the greatest Danger nei∣ther, for in the French side, from the foot of the Hills, you have a whole dayes Jour∣ney and more through a narrow Valley with a small River in the middle of it, which, at the foot of the Mount Cene, one may easilie step over, but it grows still big∣ger, as it advances throw the Valley; being increased by the water that pours from everie cleft of the Hills and Rocks, which are on everie side of the Valley, of a pro∣digious height, and most precipitious: The current of the River falling some∣times to be on one side of the Valley, and sometimes on the other, for the most part casts the highway on the contra∣ry side; So that verie often you will chance to pass under horrible Rocks that hang over the high way, and when the Snow is new fallen and they loaden with it, the least noise in the World would bring down a whole Mountain of Snow, So that if a Passinger were so caught, you might look upon him as bu∣ried till the following Spring.

But I shall advise you to choose a fitter Season, and then you will have the Satis∣faction of Herborising, for the lower parts of the Hills are all covered with Trees & many sorts of Plants, that do not grow Naturalie in an other Soil. I confess my Fortune, as to this, was ill; for af∣ter I past the Monte Cene, we had a con∣stant deluge of Rain, till I came the length of Chamberrie. But I must not here for∣forget to acquaint you with an other par∣ticular that had almost escaped me, in time of Snow: and it is this. When you come to the French side (supposing the Snow to be frozen and able to bear above;) there is a singular way of go∣ing down the Hill, which they call R••∣masser, ou se faict Ramasse. That is to have a little hurdle of Wood, upon which the Passingers is placed, with a little bit of Boord behind it, upon which the fel∣low stands that Guides the way, and so you come hurling down together, at a greater rate than the swiftest Horse in the World is able to go.

I do not remember to have remarked any thing worthie the troubling you with, upon the way from Mont Cene un∣till you come the length of Momilian, ex∣cept only that the Inhabitants near the Alps, are troubled with a certain Dis∣ease called Bronchocele, which is an out∣ward swelling in their Throats from the Chin downward, sometimes to the mid∣dle of their Breast, so that they appear at first to have no Neck or Chin, but one continued Thing from their Mouth down∣ward. It is exceedingly hard and easily affected with Cold; the cause of it is be∣lieved to be their continual Drinking of Snow-water, which runs continually from the Neigbouring Hills.

Montmelian, is a Fortress of great strength upon the Borders of Savoye near to Daufin; it is the only considerable place for strength in all Savoye, & stand•• within 3 leagues of Chamberrie, & with∣in 5 or 6 of Granoble, which is a Parlia∣ment Town, and the Capital City o•• Daufine; as Chamberrie is of Savoye. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the necessity of your occasions and you••

Engagement to the Messenger oblige you not to go straight to Lions, it will be very proper to see Granoble, Anciently called Gratianopolis from the Emperour Gratian: not that he was the first Foun∣der of it, but because he enlarged it much, and beautified it. It lyes in a plain at the foot of the Hill Chelmont, and hath the River Isere on the one side, & Drac, which is an impetuous torrent on the o∣ther. A little beyond the Drac, there is a wonderfull Curiositie to be seen; that is, a Fountain that burneth constantly. The Fields about the Town are exceed∣ing Fertile, and carrie good Wine, but the neighbouring Hills are so high, that you may see Snow all the dayes of Sum∣mer upon their Tops. The Manufacto∣rie of Gloves and dressing of Skins of all sorts is much commended in this City.

But the most considerable thing in all this Country to be seen is the great Charter-House, so called because the General of the Order is obliged to Reside here. It is a statelie Monasterie, but stands in the wildest place that ever my feet trod

upon. The Reason they give for choos∣ing this place is, because St. Bruno, the first Instituter of their Order, did pen∣nance here; It stands very near the Mount Chelmount, being three Miles distant from Granoble by a continual ascent. These three leagues will take you eight or nine good Hours riding, for in many places it is not safe to ride, and you must be for∣ced to walk a foot. About the mid-way there stands a little inconsiderable Vil∣lage of 4 or 5 Houses, where it wil be fit to repose a little; you will get Bread and Wine, and it's fourtie to one but you may meet with some good peece of sanglier, which abounds upon the Hill; being it is for the most part covered with Trees. When you come within a Mile of the House, you meet with a great Port and a Porter to wait upon it, who I sup∣pose shuts it in the Night time. Within the Port there is a Bridge over a great Cleft, within, which runs a little Rivolet; there is no possibilitie of entering any where on that side, but by this Port, from which you ascend still to the Monasterie, but,

the way is easie, and all within the top•• of the Hills covered with Oakes, Beeches, and Firr-Trees; within half a Mile of the Monasterie or some less, stands their Stables, Garnels and other Office-Houses, which indeed are statelie and well ap∣pointed, for there▪ they have lay-brothers of all Trades that serve to their purpose, and to this place it is that your Horses are sent back from the Monasterie to be ••eept till your going away, and if by chance any of your own or Horse-Fur∣niture had been broken by the way, or your Horses lost a Shooe, they will be all repaired next Morning without your de∣siring it. They have good store of Hay, and have made severall Closes near to the Monasterie, (which stands on that side of the Hill that hangs to the Southwest, and consequently has most of the Sun for making of Hay,) having felled down all the Wood that grew upon them. When you Arrive at the Monasterie, you alight from your Horses and then the Por∣ter desires you to stay untill he call the Prefect, who presently comes and informs

himself of your Names, Qualities, Coun∣try, and the Occasion of your coming (for most part come out of Devotion, and they be but few Strangers that come for Curiositie, but however all are welcome,) which being done he craves you Patience to acquaint the General, but he very soon returnes to conduct you to your a∣partement, only you must leave your Swords and Pistols with the Porter at the Gate. The Monasterie is verie large, and they have a different apartment for most Nations. We were carried into one that was very convenient, being a large Room wanscoted about with Firr-••••ords; and for Fireing, every Log of Wood they put on, is like the End of a Ships-Mast. Our Beds for the most part were at the sides of the Room within the Wal, all boorded abou•• like a Ships Cabbin; and for Courtens having two folding leaves, which you may shut or leave open at pleasure. Upon our first Arrival into this Room, we were presented with a Collation of very good Wine, Bread, Butter and Cheese; and then a Guide

given us to conduct us up the Hill, yet half a Mile further, to see St. Bruno's Chapel, that stands in the place where he did his Pennance for many Years to∣gether, as they will more particularly in∣form you, & as you returne they will let you see another Chapel Dedicated to our Lady. By that time you are returned to the Monasterie it will be time to Supp, and then according to your number you will be treated with more or fewer Di∣shes. We were only six in Companie, and we had above 30 Dish of Meat, but there was not above three or four Varieties, except in the way of dressing; & for that they are admirable. I believe we had at least a Dussen of different dishes of Eggs, all prepared in different maners; the rest were a few Fishes and Fritato's, for see∣ing they never eat Flesh themselves, it cannot be exspected they should give it to any other Body within their Mona∣sterie. The next Morning the Prefect conducts you thorow the House, shewes you the different Apartments, and parti∣cularlie to us was shown that of the

English Nation, which they used to Assigne for them in former times, but now be∣cause of their defection from the Faith, they have given it to the German Nation. They show you painted about the Walls the severall Torments & Deaths inflicted upon those of thei•• Order in England, in the time of King Henry the 8. & Queen Elizabeth. They let you see the Church, the Libra∣ry, the Refectory, the Religious Cells, the Kitchen, (which is the best I have seen in France after that of the Jesuits at L••-Flesch,) and lastly the Cellers, which are well enough furnished, but nothing so well as those at Naples of the same Order. If any Gentleman be desirous to see the General, and speake with him, it will be granted him, and he will find him very Civil. All this being done you Break∣fast, the Prefect waits upon you to the Gate, where your Horses attend you, and your Arms are delivered you, & so leave∣ing a little Drink-Money to the Ser∣van••s, (about a Crown a Head for Gentle∣men,) you take leave and returne a∣gain to Granoble. I must only add that

all this Hill over there is excellent Herbarizing.

From Granoble to Lions, you have a Matter of 15 leagues, in which there is little considerable.

From Chamberrie to Lions there is 16 leagues, but nothing considerable up∣on the way; save only that within 2 Miles of Chamberrie you have only the Ga∣belette to pass, which is a very steep and high Mountain in several parts precipici∣ous, especiallie on the Savoy side, yet you mount that side on your own Horses, and must carrie along with you from Cham∣berrie Porters to carrie you down the Hill, on the French side. I think you will pay but half a Crown for your two Porters, and you will find them as dex∣terous in their Trade, as those of Mount Ceni's.

Some that have a mind to see Geneva pass the Alps, either by the Mount Sam∣pion or the Mount St. Bernard, and so from Geneva either go straight to Lio••s, which is a Matter of 26 Leagues, or else from Geneva go to Chamberrie, which is

12 Leagues, and from thence to Montme∣lian, the Grand Charterhouse, and so pass by Granoble to Lions. This is all that occurs to my Memorie at present, con∣cerning this Journey.

In truth I am very sensible that it might have been much more accurat, had I been so diligent as to write of it in the time I made the Journey, when all things were fresh in my Memorie. But that occasion being lost; I had no more left me, but to Recol••ect my Thoughts as care∣fully as I could to satisfie your desire, & the rather because I am hopefull, it will provoke you to make a more diligent Inquiry af∣ter all things, and to set them down Orderly, without trusting your Memo∣rie. This I conjure you to do; and assure your self, it is one of the greatest things I will expect from you at your re∣turn. I confess, I have been some∣what prolix in my narration, but, if you consider the vastness and Fertilitie of the Subject, you will find few Towns in Italy, of which there might not have been more said than I have said of them all; & this you

will easily find to be true if you please to make a Collection of those Books that are writen of the Antiquities, and Curiosi∣ties, of each of them: For there is scarce∣lie any Town in Italy, where, you may not find such Books. However such as it is I offer it you, and wish it were better for your sake, for whole service it was only undertaken; aud if it prove acceptable and usefull to you, I have my designe. I shall o••lie add that it had been sent you much sooner, had not the Necessitie of an Extraordinarie atten∣dance upon this Winter-Session, so often withdrawn me, together with the other Duties of my Profession, which I was Ob∣liged to perform.

Postscript.

A List of those Things, which I desire The Laird of LEVINGSTONE to procure for me in Italy.

• ...

  1. All the new Books of Physick, Botany, and that any way relate to the Historie of Nature, that have been printed since

• ...

  the 64. and of Old Books, Aldrovandi's works at Bolognia, together with any o∣ther he can meet with, that was contained in the first List I gave him when he parted from hence, as also at Rome I desire him to buy me a Book in Taildouce, containing all the Antiquities, Palaces Statues, Churches, Villa's, Fountains, Py∣ramids &c. in Rome. I would have it of the best, largest and finest Impression; and if you cannot get them so in one Book, I would have you take them in se∣verall Fashions as you can best find them: You may inquire appresso Giacomo di Rossi a la Pace in Roma. Also Caroli Avantij, Paraleipomena Botanica, if it be to be had, for I never saw it, onlie he pro∣miseth it in his Notes in Caenam Baptiste Fiera 4. Patav 1649.

• ...

  2. At Florence I desire that you would remember to procure me a small Parcel of all the Varieties of Stones you can come by. The readie way will be to inquire for them at the Stone Cutters in the great Dukes Chapel at St. Laurence Church, or else at the Work-men that work in Stone for

• ...

  Cabinets at the Dukes Gallerie. But a∣bove all, of these two kinds of Stone that are most comon at Florence; whereof the one Represents Trees, and Forrests; the other, Towns and Villages: I would have of each two or three large handsome choise Peeces, fitt to be put in Frames. I would likeways have of those peeces of Cri∣stal that are extraordinarie for Colour, or otherwayes that have any Substance, contained within them; as water, &c. you may possibly find such, either at Florence or Millan, or it may be Venice or any o∣ther where. There is likeways a Stone cal∣led Lapis Fungiferus; It is a Stone that being placed in the Ground produces large Mushroms; I had one of them given me at Rome, but unhappily lost it at London. To the best of my Memorie, they are com∣monly found about Praenestae, commonly called Palestrina. Some honest Virtuoso, & particularlie Padre Barilieri alla Minerva in Roma, will tell you where they may be got; I have likeways heard that they were in many places of the Kingdom of Naples.

• ...

• ...

  3. I humbly desire likeways some parcel of Antieails, some••three or 4 of the An∣tiche Lucerne of the best fashioned and best preserved. In my time there was 2 or 3 in the Piazza navona, that sold such things, and particularly an Old Man, whose Name I have forgot, that had whole Ca∣binets full of Intalio's and Medales. I desire likeways some Intalio's that be tru∣ly Antique: the excellencie of the Impression, and the deepness of it commends them, e∣speciallie if they be well preserved, & neither the Stone nor impression spoiled. I would likeways have some Brass-Medals of the 1st. or second Magnitude, that be well preser∣ved. There are many things that com∣mend Medals to be good, particularly, 1. to be Antique and not Counterfeit. 2. To be well preserved, 3ly. to have a good Re∣verse; & it is to be observed, that the dif∣ferences of reverses make different Me∣dals, altho' they be of the same Emperour, or Consul, and of the same Magnitude, and it is likeways to be observed that those Em∣perours who Reigned longest had the great∣est Varietie of Medals; As for Reverses, the

• ...

  best are such as are least common; as for example a Charriot, a Triumphal Arch, a Tro∣phie of Warr, a Man or a Womans Head for the Reverse, two Faces on one side, a Galey, the Instruments of Sacrifice, an Am∣phitheatre, a Mousolium, an Elephant, a Lion, a Dolphin, and many more such that I cannot remember of; as also a Reverse charged with many Figures, can never be ill, nor one that relates any known Hi∣storie, as one that I have of Titus Vespasian with a Palm••Tree, a Slave sitting at the foot of it, with this Word, Judea capta for the Reverse thereof. But I doubt mine is only a Copie, and not truly Antique. I would likeways have a few Chamaeo's pro∣viding they be not dear; that which commends them is to have the Figures well done, and to be well preserved. The Pretiousnes of the Stone doth likeways con∣tribute much to their Value. In all there, that is, Medales, Intaglias, Chameo's, I would be content that ye did bestow 4 or 5 Pistolls for me, which tho' I confess it be a very small Summ; yet you may chance to make a better purchase for it at Rome

• ...

  than any where else for a farr bigger. Lastly, to conclude this Article, I would fain have some of the Ancient Glass, which through time looks now as it were Opal; Nothing will commend it so much as to find an intire vase or Phiol, for example a Lachrimatory, such as the Ancients used to cape their own or their Friends Tears in.

• ...

  4ly. There is the Face of a Hill near to Rome, as I remember, it is at the End of the Janicular, not farr from Cardinal Fran∣cis Barherin's Villa, that is full of Shells of all sorts Petrified, or if ye please to call them Stones, resembling all the Species of Shells. By what means they came there, I leave you to find out▪ only I would fain have you to make good Provision of all the Varieties of them, and these as intire as you can get them.

• ...

  5ly. At Naples I would desire you to buy me a couple of black Sashes, Net-work such as they use. I think the best use to cost 3 or 4 Crowns a Peece, and I would have the best. I would likeways have you to buy me at Luca, or at Florence, I think you may do it in either, two of the largest

• ...

  quilted Silk Stomagers, or Breast-Plates, such as people use to wear there in Win∣ter time. And at Rome I intreat you to buy me a Dossen a pair of Gloves, Concia di Roma, not exceeding a Testone, or 4 Julio's a pair: and at Venice two pound, of the best Old Theriae. At Bolognia a Dossen or two of Soap-Balls.

• ...

  6ly. All the Natural Curiosities that you can meet with, with your conveniencie of Fowls, Fish, Insects or other Animals, the manner of Ordering, of which I have written to you formerly. I confess these you sent me from Paris were the best or∣dered I ever saw; but besides that it is too Expensive, you will not allways meet with the Oportunity, of having them so order∣ed; therefore it will be sufficient, if the Skins (being carefully taken of, and stuffed with Flax, or Cotten) be so preserved: But for the smaller sort of Insects, their whole Bodies will easily preserve; the Guts being first taken out. Of this kind I would have these viz. a Viper or two both the kinds of Tarantula, viz. the Stellio, which is a kind of Lizard Curiously, Spotted, but

• ...

  accounted Poysonous; and the other true one, which is shaped like a Spider: and what others you think fitt.

• ...

  7ly. Be pleased to make me some pur∣chase of Outlandish Curiosities, especially, such as are from the Levant, of whatso∣ever Sort that you can meet with. Buy me at Venice, a Stilletto, and a pair of Ar∣menian Shoos, shod with Iron on the heels, such as they use to wear undermost.

For the rest I refer you to the Itinerary, and shall earnestly intreat you to do me the Favour to Remember all my desires, as farr as may Stand with your Convenience, for further I should be very sorry to trouble you. I do likeways with much Earnestness Recommend to you those Par∣ticulars, concerning my self, mentioned in such Places of the French Itinerary (which I sent you last Year) as you have not yet seen. Thus, once again wishing you all happiness,

I Remaine Your &c.

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