Travels over England, Scotland and Wales giving a true and exact description of the chiefest cities, towns, and corporations, together with the antiquities of divers other places, with the most famous cathedrals and other eminent structures, of several remarkable caves and wells, with many other divertive passages never before published / by James Brome ... ; the design of the said travels being for the information of the two eldest sons, of that eminent merchant Mr. Van-Ackar.

AN ACCOUNT OF Mr. BROME'S Three Years TRAVELS OVER England, Scotland, and Wales. (Book 1)

A Narrative of his first Journey. (Book 1)

WHen the Spring had rendred the Roads passable, and the Country was a fit∣ting Entertainment for Travellers, the Gentlemen, whose Names I have given my self the Honour of Inserting in the Title, were pleased to take me for their Compa∣nion, in order to have a View of those Places, which were under the same Government with the City from whence they set out, and which it was

not Improper to be acquainted with before they made a Visit to Nations more ••ote. And since it is but natural for the Inhabitants of other Coun∣tries to be as inquisitive after our Scituation and Establishment, as we are after Theirs; we could not but endeavour to provide our selves with an Answer, by the Knowledge of our own Country's Constitution, before we had occasion to ask Que∣stons in Relation to those of others.

As these were the Reasons which occasion'd our Journey, so we took a time in which it was agree∣able to make one. The Season of the year push'd us forward, and the delights which it afforded were motives enough to persuade us to take leave of the Glorious City of London, which is Caput Gentis, and an Epitome of England.

* 1.1We took our Journey through Middlesex, a Country famous for its goodly Edifices, as well wisely compacted together upon the pleasant Banks of Thames; as likewise for divers stately and magni∣ficent Palaces dispersed in several other parts there∣of,* 1.2 to Ʋxbridge, anciently Woxbridge, seated on the Colne, which parts it from Buckinghamshire, a Town Built of late times, well stored with Inns, and of a considerable length. This was the place famous in the Year 1644. for a Treaty held be∣twixt King Charles the First, and the Parliament, where after several Debates by Commissioners on both sides, the Treaty of Peace was unhappily broken off, and ended in a Deluge of Blood, which speedily over-ran this whole Nation.

* 1.3From Ʋxbridge, we came into the County of Bucks, which might possibly receive its Denomi∣nation from its Fertility in Beech-Trees, there being a Province in Germany called Buchonia for that very reason: 'Tis a Country rich in Pasture, and so convenient for Grazing, that the Inhabi∣tants thereof do very much addict themselves to that Employment, receiving great Advantages by

the Vicinity of London, where the Markets are very Encouraging, the Prices being high, and the Returns considerable.

Passing through Beconsfield,* 1.4 a Town better known, in that it was formerly part of the Inheri∣tance belonging to the Noble Family of the Schu∣damore's, than for any thing at present of greater Consequence, we arrived at Wickam or Wicomb, situated above a pleasant Valley, by which runs along a little Rivolet, and perhaps from this situ∣ation it took its Name; for Combe, saith the Great Antiquary Mr. Somner, in his Saxon Dictionary, is a Valley enclosed on either side with Hills; and Wick, saith the same Author, is the turning, win∣ding, or hollowness of Water-banks, or the cur∣ving reach of a River: 'Tis a Town for large∣ness and buildings, not much inferiour to any throughout the Shire; and hath a Mayor and Al∣dermen to govern and support it; and is a place very much celebrated for the abundance of Bone-Lace usually made here, which brings no small Advantage and Profit to its Inhabitants.

Having refresh'd our selves a while here, we set forward for Oxfordshire,* 1.5 which being once entred into, we could not sufficiently enough admire the pleasantness of the Soil; for there it is that Ceres bestows her Gifts most liberally upon the laborious Husbandman; there it is the Meadows are garni∣shed with Flora's curious Embellishments; and the great variety of Plants allure and invite the indu∣strious Herbalist into a more strict Enquiry of their Names, Natures, and Properties: There it is where the Hills adorned with shady Woods, af∣ford most delightsome Bowers to wearied Students, whilst the Silver-stream'd Rivers with their gentle Murmurs nimbly coursing along by the humble Valleys, do whet their Fancies, and scrue up their Inventions to the highest pitch. To confer upon them suitable Encomiums; What more plea∣sant than Isis, afterward called Thamisis, which

runs along the South-side, and then branching it self out in several Veins gives heart to the Ea∣stern part of the County, till by a continued Cir∣culation like that of the Blood, after several Win∣dings, and Maeandrous Flexures, it lodgeth at last again within it self? What can be more diverting than the River Cherwell, which being well reple∣nished with numerous Shoals of Fish, after it hath for a time parted this County from Northampton∣shire, passeth through the midst of it, and divides it as it were into two equal Portions? In fine, Na∣ture hath here so generously scatter'd all her Lar∣gesses, either for Pleasure or Profit, that she cer∣tainly at first designed it as a Glorious Seat for the Muses, and a fruitful Colony for Apollo's Chil∣dren; and therefore we now find here one of the Eyes of this Nation, which is the Renowned Ox∣ford.

* 1.6Oxford, q. Bovis Vadum, a Ford for Oxen to pass over, as the Thracian Bosphorus is called by the Germans Ochenfurt. It was anciently called Bello∣situm for its healthy Air, and commodious Situ∣ation betwixt two Rivers, and is so ancient a City as to fetch its Original from the time of the Bri∣taine, so large, to contain 13 Parish Churches, besides the Cathedral so well adorned with private goodly Structures, as well as with divers magni∣ficent Colleges and Halls, that it must needs be al∣lowed to be one of the most beautiful and stately Cities in England: it is supposed by Antiquaries, to have been a place for publick Studies before the Reign of that learned Saxon King Alfred, who very much augmented it out of his Princely Favour, and Love to Learning and Religion, and it justly glories in the Ancient and Royal Foundation of Ʋniversity-College, founded by the aforesaid King Alfred, about the year 872.; afterward re-edified by William Archdeacon of Durham, or as others write, by William, Bishop of Durham, in the Reign of William the Conquerour; In the curious

Fabrick of New-College, built by William of Wickham, Bishop of Winchester, in Richard II's time; In the Magnificence of Christ-Church, e∣rected by Cardinal Woolsey, in the Reign of Henry VIII. and in Twenty two stately Colleges and Halls besides. To wave the curious Fabrick of the Schools, the admirable Structure of the Theatre, built at the sole Cost and Charges of the most Re∣verend Father in God, Gilbert, late Lord Arch-Bishop of Canterbury; the famous Bodleian Libra∣ry, which for a Collection of choice Books, and rare Manuscripts is not much inferiour to that of the Vatican at Rome. The Musaeum erected at the Charge of the University, for the Improvement of Experimental Knowledge: The publick Physick Garden, replenished with the choicest Plants, and surrounded with a strong Stone-Wall, at the Ex∣pence of his Grace the present Duke of Leeds, to∣gether with all the Customs, Privileges, Offices, and Dignities, which are already Elegantly set forth by the Ingenious Author of the Present State of England: I shall only observe, that the most Puissant King Henry VIII. erected here first a Bi∣shop's See, and Endowed it, as we are informed, out of the Lands belonging to the dissolved Mo∣nasteries of Abington and Osney; and for further Ornaments to the University, and Encouragement of Learning, through the Munificence of that Prince, and divers other Benefactors, there have been since added divers professors of several Arts and Sciences, to instruct the younger Pupils in their Minority, and to make them fit Instruments for the Service of Church and State.

From hence we moved forward to Burford,* 1.7 a Town in this County of good Note for its Anti∣quity, situated very pleasantly on the side of a rising Hill: It was formerly called Berghford, or Bregforde, saith my Learned Friend, Mr. White Kennet, in his Parochial Antiquities of Oxford∣shire; and as he further informs us, A Synod was

here Convened, at which were present the two Kings Etheldred and Berthwald, Theodore, Arch-Bishop of Canterbury, Sexwolph, Bishop of Litch∣field, Bosel, Bishop of Worcester, and Aldhelm, af∣terward Bishop of Sherborn, then only Priest and Abbot of Malmsbury; which said Aldhelm, at the Command of this Synod, wrote a Book against the Errour of the British Christians, in the Obser∣vation of Easter, and other different Rites where∣in they disturbed the Peace of the Church; the reading of which Book reclaim'd many of those Britains who were under the West-Saxons.

After this, 'tis storied further, That about the year 752. Cuthred King of the West-Saxons, when he was no longer able to bear the Severe Tributes, and Exactions of Aethelbald, King of the Merci∣ans, who did most cruelly oppress him, and began 〈◊〉〈◊〉 suck the very Blood and Marrow of his Sub∣jects, came into the Field against him, and in a pit••••'d Battle at Beorgford, saith the Saxon Chro∣nicle, published by the Learned Mr. Gibson, rou∣ted him ••••tally, taking from him his Banners, on which was painted a golden Dragon, and so eased and freed himself and his Subjects from that Tri∣butary Vassalage: The Memory whereof has con∣tinued for several Ages in the Custom used here of making a Dragon, and carrying it about the Town solemnly on Midsummer-Eve, with the ad∣dition of a Giant to it; the reason of which lat∣ter Practice is not so easily discovered, saith the Ingenious Dr. Plot, in his Natural History of Ox∣fordshire.

Having once passed from this place, we soon arrived within the Limits of Glocestershire,* 1.8 in the Eastern parts swelled up into Hills, called Cots∣wold, which Feed innumerable Flocks of Sheep, the Wool whereof is much praised for its fineness; the middle parts consist of a fertile Plain, watered by the Severn: and the Western part, where lies the Forest of Dean, is much covered with Woods:

'Tis a Country happy in the Enjoyment of all things that are necessary for the Use and Service of Man; the very Lanes and Hedges being well-lined with Apple, and Pear-Trees; and the Vales, which in William of Malmsbury's time, were filled with Vineyards, are now turn'd into Orchards, which yield plenty of Sider. The Towns and Villages stand mostly thick together, and so it is po∣pulous; the Houses numerous, and so 'tis sociable; the Churches fair and magnificent, and so 'tis ho∣nourable: But that which is one of the greatest Blessings of all, is the Noble River Severn, than which there is not any River in all this Island for its Channel broader, for Stream swifter, for va∣riety of Fish better stored, though sometimes it overflows its Banks; and when it hath roved a great way upon the Land, retires back again in Triumph as a victorious Conquerour.

This River Severn,* 1.9 or Sabrina, was so called from Sabrine, a fair Lady, concerning whom there goes this Story. Locrine, the Eldest Son of Brutus, who came first into Britain, and from whom, some Writers are of Opinion, our Country received its Denomination, took to Wife Guendoline, Daugh∣ter to Corineus Duke of Cornwall, the Companion of that Noble Trojan; but notwithstanding this, he kept a very beautiful Mistress, whose Name was Estrilde, and by her had a Daughter, which he named Sabrine, whereupon he grew so enamou∣red of her, that after the Death of his Father-in-law Corineus, he put away his Wife, and Married this Lady; at which Act his Wife was so extream∣ly netled, that she immediately repairs into Corn∣wall, makes her Complaint among her Friends, and Relations, and having gathered a great Pow∣er to revenge her Injury, she fought with her hus∣band Locrine at New-Troy, or London, and there slew him: After this, to execute her Revenge still in the highest degree, she took the Lady Estrilde, with her fair Daughter Sabrina, and drowned them both in this River.

Travelling over this delightsome Region, the first place of any Remark we arrived at, was Ci∣rencester, alias Circiter* 1.10; which the River Corinus, or Churne rising among the Wolds passeth by and giveth it its Name: It appears to have been a place of great Antiquity and Renown, from the old Roman Coins and Medals, and divers Marble Engraven Stones, which have been digged up hereabouts: Nay, a Judicious An∣tiquary Mr. Kennet has observed, That this place seems to have been as well the first, as the greatest of the Roman Stations, which the Bri∣tains had before made a place of Strength, and Confluence: That this Corinium is by Ptolemy Recorded, as the Metropolis, or Chief City of the Dobuni; and was after called Corinium Do∣hunorum.

The British Chronicles tell us further, That this Town was burnt down, being set on Fire by a company of Sparrows, through an Invention de∣vised by one Gurmund. Certain it is, the Inhabi∣tants shew a Mount below the Town; which they Report this Gurmund cast up, which they corrupt∣ly call Grismund's Tower:* 1.11 It was a long time sub∣ject to the West-Saxons; afterward the Mercians got it into their Possession, where it continued till the Establishment of the English Monarchy, under which it sustained very great Calamities, by the Incursion of the Danes: and 'tis probable, that Gur∣mon the Dane, whom some Historiographers call Guthrus and Gurmundus, was a great Instrument to augment its Troubles and Oppressions: However, there are still some Remains to be seen of old Rui∣nated Walls, and of an Abby built, as some con∣jecture, by the Saxons; afterward much repaired, or rather rebuilt by King Henry I: 'Tis now beau∣tified with a very handsome Church, having a high Spired Steeple, and hath once a Week a Market, and has formerly been Enriched with the Trade of Clothing, though that with many

other Privileges and Immunities they enjoyed, are now impaired and gone to decay.

From hence coursing over the Wolds, we came to the top of Burlipp-Hill,* 1.12 where we had a Pro∣spect of a very pleasant Vale; the Hill is craggy, steep, and high, from which descending by de∣grees, and passing through a Way which was for∣merly paved with Stone, and was undoubtedly one of the Roman high Ways, which here crossed one another, we came to Glocester,* 1.13 called by An∣tiquaries, Caer Gloyn, which took its Name either of Claudius the Emperour, or of the Beauty and Brightness thereof, which the Britains call Gloyn, though others call it Kaerclan.

'Tis a City well Seated, and as well Inhabited, and of a considerable Trade, by reason of the Ri∣ver Severn, over which it has a fair Bridge, and being Navigable, Boats of great Burden come up to the Key side, loaded with several Commodities. 'Tis governed by a Mayor and Aldermen, and is adorned with 12 Parish Churches besides the Cathedral: And for the Strength of the Place, it was formerly on the Landside encompassed with a strong Wall, the standing Remains whereof shew what Force they have been of: On the Southside it had a strong Castle of square Stone now fall'n to Ruine. Craulin King of the West-Saxons Conquered this City from the Britains a∣bout the year 570; and 300 years after it fell into the Hands of the Danes, who miserably de∣faced it.

Soon after this Aldred, Archbishop of York, built the Cathedral, to which belongs now a Dean and Six Prebendaries and it hath been much enlar∣ged by the Charity of good Benefactors, John Hanly and Thomas Early adding to it the Chapel of the Virgin Mary; N. Morwent the Forefront, being an excellent Fabrick; G. Horton adjoyn'd to it the North-Cross part; Abbot Trowcester, a very fine Cloyster, and Abbot Sebrok, a high Four square

Steeple: As for the Southside, it was repaired by the Free Offerings of the Inhabitants at the Se∣pulchre of Edward II. who lieth here Interred un∣der a Monument of Alabaster; and in the Quire, under a wooden-painted Tomb, lies Robert, the Eldest Son of William the Conquerour, who was deprived both of his Life and Kingdom, by his Younger Brother Henry I. having his Eyes first put out at Cardiff-Castle; and died thereafter 26 years Imprisonment.

Here likewise is the Monument of Lucius, who is said to have been the first Christian King in Eng∣land: Now, though by Bishop Burnet in his Tra∣vels we are told, That there is a famous Chapel Erected to him, as their Great Apostle, near Coir, a Town of the Grisons, for the great Service he did to them, in working their Conversion; yet 'tis most probable that he lies Interred here: But how he came at first to be instructed in the Chri∣stian Faith, we have the most probable Account given us by the most Learned Bishop Stillingfleet, in his Antiquities of the British Churches, which is this: That King Lucius hearing of the Christian Doctrine, either by the old British Christians, such as Eluanus and Meduinus are supposed to have been; or by some of M. Aurelius his Soldiers coming hi∣ther, after the great Deliverance of the Roman Ar∣my by the Prayers of the Christians, which had then lately happen'd, and occasion'd great Dis∣course every where. The Emperour himself, as Ter∣tullian saith, giving the Account of it in his own Letters, might upon this be very desirous to inform himself thoroughly about this Religion; and there being then frequent Entercourse betwixt Rome and Britain, by reason of the Colonies that were set∣led, and the Governours and Soldiers passing to and fro, he might send Eluanus and Meduinus to be fully instructed in this Religion, and either the same Persons alone, or two others with them (called Fag••••us and D••••••ianus commonly) coming

into Britain, might have so great Success, as to Baptize King Lucius, and many others, and there∣by inlarge the Christian Church here.

But to return from what we have made a little Digression, the Pillars of this Church are of an extraordinary Thickness, not to be Parallel'd in any Church of England: But that which makes it most Remarkable, is a curious piece of Archi∣tecture at the East-end of the Quire, called, The Whispering Place;* 1.14 'tis an Arch in the form of a Semi∣circle, 30 yards in Circuit, and so rare a Contri∣vance, that if any Person stand at one end of it, and Whisper never so softly, he that lays his Ear to the other end, will discover distinctly the Words he speaks.

[illustration]

A C D E F B is the Passage of the Voice, or Whispering Place; at A and B do the two Persons stand that Whisper to each other. At D, the middle of the Passage, is a Door and Entrance in∣to a Chapel, with Window-Cases on each side of the Door; and to my best Remembrance, there are one or two Places open upward in the Roof of the passage; from whence it is the Opinion of Mr. Childrey, in his Britannia Baconica, when he has occasion to speak of this Place, that the Chapel standing so in the middle, much conduceth to the conveying of the Sound so entirely, which is hel∣ped

by the open places of the Roof before-men∣tioned, for they help to draw in the Voice, which else would not so well enter into that narrow Pas∣sage, but reverberate back into that broad open place before the Whispering Entry; and the Rea∣son upon which he grounds his Opinion, that the Chapel doth a great part of the Work is this, Because, saith he, we see in Viols, Lutes, and o∣ther Musical Instruments, there are Holes cut in∣to the Belly of the Instrument just under the play∣ing or striking place, which we find by Experi∣ence, do much augment the Noise of the Notes, and make them more Audible.

But this being only a Conjecture, I shall leave it to be further discuss'd by those who delight in such kind of Speculation, and proceed to Lassing∣ton,* 1.15 a little Village near Gloucester, where are found many Astroites, or Star-stones, being about the breadth of a silver Penny, but the thickness of half a Crown, flat, and pointed like a Star, or Mullet in Heraldry, only the Points of them are not sharp, but a little roundish, and of a greyish Colour, and on both sides curiously graved, (as it were by Art) as if there were a little Mullet within the great one: Being put into Vinegar, they have a Motion like the Astroites in Germany, which the Learned Cambden speaks of; and are more fully described by Mr. Childrey in his Natural Rarities of Gloucestershire.

Having diverted our selves at Gloucester, we steer'd our Course for Tewksbury,* 1.16 a Market-Town of a great Trade for Cloth, Mustard-Seed, but more especially for Stockings, of which the Townsmen every Saturday buy great Quantities from the Neighbouring Inhabitants: 'Tis situa∣ted among three pleasant Rivers; Severn on the one side enricheth it, and on the other Avon, and another small Rivolet which comes from the East; over each whereof stand Bridges which give En∣trance into it. By the Saxons it was call'd Thro••••

••uria, from a Religious Man named Throcus, who led here an Hermite's Life, and hath been reputed famous for a Monastery, founded by Odo, and Dodo, two Saxon Noble Men, which was after∣ward much enlarged by the Earls of Gloucester, who lived at Homes-Castle near to this place,* 1.17 and were generally here Interred. Nor is it of less Fame for the Memorable Battle fought here in 1471 be∣tween the House of York and Lancaster, which bloody day decided for that time, that great Con∣troversie, and left the Crown to the former.

In the Reign of King Henry III. there is a Story Recorded, of a Jew that lived in this Town, how that falling into a Jakes, or Privy, on the Jewish Sabbath, or Saturday, would by no means, out of Reverence to that Day, suffer any one to come and rescue him out of that Noisome place; where∣upon Richard, then Earl of Gloucester, having some Intelligence of his refractary Sullenness, gave a strict charge, that no one should dare to take him out on the Sunday, for the Reverence of that Day; and so the poor Circumcised Wretch perished in that loathsome Dungeon through his own Folly.

Our abode at this place was but short, for we hasted into the Confines of Worcestershire,* 1.18 which we found a very healthful and plentiful Country: In one part it is of Note for its Cheese, in most for its Perry, which is a very pleasant Liquor, made of the Juice of Pears, growing here in abundance in the Hedges; 'tis likewise full of Salt-Pits, and hath formerly been admired for abundance of Salt-Springs, which have been very oft discovered in this County: But that which makes it most Re∣nown'd, is the River Severn, which Streams along the Country, which as also the River Avon, is well replenished with divers sorts of Fish; but more particularly seem'd to be design'd on pur∣pose by Nature, as Stews and Ponds, for the Pre∣servation of Lampreys, a Fish of great esteem in that County, and sent far and near as a very great

Present throughout divers parts of England; they are called Lampreys from the Latin word Lampe∣tra, as if they had their Denomination from lick∣ing of Rocks, they are like Eels, slippery and blackish; however, on their Bellies they are of a blewish colour; in the Spring they are most whol∣som and sweet, for in the Summer the inner Nerve, which is to them instead of a Backbone, waxeth too hard for Concoction: Naturalists observe, that these Fish receive, and let in Water at seven Holes, for that they have no Gills which are any way visible; the Romans always thought this a very noble Dish, and when any Person of Quality de∣sired a sumptuous Feast, he would be sure to be provided with these; and the Italians at this day are very much delighted with them, and conse∣quently by their Cookery, make them exceeding delicate to the Taste, for they take a Lamprey, and killing it in Malmsey, close the Mouth with a Nutmeg, and fill all the Holes with as many Cloves, then they roll it up, and put Filberd, Nut-Kernels stamp'd, crums of Bread, Oyl, Malmsey, and Spices to it, and so they boil it with great care, and then turn it over a soft gentle Fire of Coals in a Frying-pan.

The first place we came to which was Remark∣able in this County was Worcester it self,* 1.19 where the River Severn, which in other parts of the County runs along in a swift Current, glides on here more softly with a gentle Stream, admiring as it were, this City,* 1.20 as it passeth by, which is famous both for its Antiquity and Beauty: 'Tis supposed that the Romans built it at that time when they first planted Cities on the Easternside of the Severn, to hinder the Incursion of the Britaine, who were on the other side, as they did on the Southside of the Rhine to repress the Germans: 'Tis situated partly upon the Brow of a Hill, rising with a gentle A∣scent, and hath a very fair Bridge over the River, and is of great Repute for its Manufacture of

Cloth, by which the Inhabitants become Wealthy and Creditable: The Houses are neat and well built, the Streets clean and well paved, the Churches in number many, in Order and Beauty excellent, especially the Cathedral, in which are divers small Pillars all of pure Marble, which stand in Rows, and do uphold that vast Bulk and Fabrick, some∣what strange to see the Body larger than the Sup∣porters, and that so small Props should be able to bear up so great a Weight: This Church, say some Historians, was first built by Ethelred, King of the Mercians, tho' others by Bishop Sexwolph * 1.21, about the year 680, under the high Altar, where∣of lies the Body of King John wrapped in a Monk's Cowl, which the Superstition of that time accoun∣ted Sacred, and a very necessary Defensative a∣gainst all evil Spirits: Here is likewise to be seen the Tomb of Arthur Prince of Wales, the eldest Son of Henry VII. with divers Monuments be∣longing to the ancient Family of the Beauchamps: It was formerly a Cloyster for Monks, but King Henry VIII. did substitute in their Room a Dean and Prebendaries, and erected a free School for the Education of the Citizen's Children: It hath suffered great Calamities by Fire, being burnt down by the Danes about the year 104.1, after this by an unknown Casualty under the Reign of Henry I. and once again in King Stephen's days; and sure I am, it hath of later years fall'n into the Hands of some merciless Men, who were as raging as the Flames, and whose Fury was as un∣quenchable as the Fire it self; Witness the grie∣vous Pressures it groaned under for its Loyalty to the King, in the year 1651: For here it was, that after his long Exile, King Charles the Second arrived with an Army of Scots and some English the 22. of August, and by the Assistance of the Citi∣zens, beat but the Soldiers, who kept it for the Common-wealth, and being proclaimed by the Mayor that then was, and Sheriffs, King of Eng∣land,

&c. Nevertheless, was attended with the same ill Fortune and Success, which was at that time his chief Attendants; and having but a small Army in comparison of the numberless number of Rebels that were poured in upon him, was totally defeated at this City, several of his Nobles Slain and took Prisoners, the rest forced to fly for their Lives, and himself constrain'd to make his E∣scape as privately as he could, and to betake him∣self into a Wood in Staffordshire, where hiding himself in the shady Boughs of a well-spread Oak, he found more Pity and Security from Trees and Woods, than from some of his own unnatural and bloody Subjects: However, this City is now again restored to its Lustre, and like the Phoenix, being revived out of its own Ashes, is raised up to its Prestine Splendour and Magnificence.

Having sufficiently satisfied our selves with the Varieties of that City, we came into the Confines of the Eastern part of Herefordshire,* 1.22 which appear∣ed very Rocky and Mountainous at the first; but having passed those Rocky parts, we began to find the Country more pleasant to the Eye; for we discovered it to be a Fertile Soil, the Valleys thick with Corn, and the Meadows abounding with Grass, and well watered with Rivers, the Hills covered with Sheep, and the Hedges full of Apple-Trees, which bear a sort of Fruit called Red∣streaks, of which they make the best Syder in Eng∣land: In a word, we found it according to the u∣sual Report, which is made of it, to yield to no Country in this Nation, for three W. W. W, Wheat, Wool, and Water, to which formerly might have been added Wood, but that the Iron Works have since destroyed it very much, and made it become less plentiful.

Passing through Bramyard, a small Market-Town of no great Consequence,* 1.23 we came to He∣reford, the chief City of this County, which is situated almost in the middle of it, and watered

by two pleasant Rivers, Wye and Lugg, which by their happy Union not far from this place advance her Felicity, and enrich her Soil: Antiquaries are of Opinion, That this City had its Rise from A∣riconium, which hath at this day no manner of Form of a Town, as having been thrown down by an Earthquake, only some do imagine it to have stood in a place which they now call Kenche∣ster, three Miles distant from this City,* 1.24 and they do build their Conjectures from the Ruines of old Walls, which are there Conspicuous; as like∣wise from some four-square paving Tiles, and thick Bricks, as well as several Roman Coins dig∣ged up thereabouts, though now the place which they mention is all over-grown with Shrubs, Bushes, and Brambles: We observed, when we went to visit this place, three or four Receptacles in an old piece of Ruin'd Wall, in which the Owners had found some Urns, which argues the place to have been of great Antiquity; however, her Sister Hereford, which is now become Beauti∣ful by the others Decay, justly claims the Pre-emi∣nence above all other Places within this County: She is thought first to have shown her Head under the Saxon Heptarchy, and is supposed to have re∣ceived great Helps and Increase by Religion; and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, who, when he Courted the Daughter of Offa, King of the Mercians, was treacherously put to Death by Quendred, Offa's Wife: Hereupon, being Registred as a Martyr, he had a Church built, and Dedicated to him by Milfrid King of the Mercians, A. D. 825. which after the Esta∣blishment of a Bishop's See in it, grew to great Wealth and Honour through the Devout and Pi∣ous Liberality of the Mercians, and then of the West-Saxons, and is thought never to have suffer∣ed any Misfortune, untill Edward the Confessor's time, when Griffith, Prince of South-Wales, and Algarus, having raised a Rebellion against King

Edward, and led away Captive Leofgarus, the Bi∣shop, sacked the City, and burnt the Cathedral Afterward the Normans at the East End of the Church, by the River Wye, built a strong Castle, Fortified the City with a Wall; and by the Trench near the Castle is a very fine Spring, call'd St. E∣thelbert's Well,* 1.25 famous formerly for Miracles, to which, no question, but in that Superstitious Age, there was a great Resort of the Lame and the Blind, with their Vows, and their Offerings; the Sanctity of Waters being such a Devout Fancy a∣mong our Ancestors, as has been truly observed by that Indefatigable Searcher into Antiquity, the Ingenious Mr. White Kennet, that after Ages were forced to restrain the horrid Superstition of Well-Worship, by a Canon in a Council under Edgar, and after this too by some other Episcopal Injunctions.

Within this City are four Parish Churches, and Bishop Reinelme, in the Reign of King Henry I. founded the Cathedral that now is, being a beau∣tiful and magnificent Structure, adorned with di∣vers Monuments of ancient Prelates, and Abbots: To this adjoyns divers Houses, for the Dignitaries of the Church, and a College for 12 Vicars, who live after an Academical way under a Praefectus, who presides over them, and supplies them with all Necessaries, to encourage their Attendance up∣on all Divine Offices: So ready were our Ance∣stors to promote Learning, and advance such Per∣sons whose quick and acute Parts were eclipsed un∣der mean and slender Fortunes.

The City is govern'd by a Mayor, (who is An∣nually sworn upon Michaelmas-Day) 12 Alder∣men, a Recorder, and divers Common-Council Men; and by their Charter have Privileges for particular Companies and Societies amongst them∣selves, who have several distinct Halls and Petty-Laws Enacted, for regulating and ordering their Affairs in Trade: It hath three Markets a Week,

in which there is plenty of Corn, and all other sorts of Provisions: And finally, it is observable, That in the late Civil Wars it was never taken by the Rebels; and though the Scotch Army came a∣gainst it, yet they found such hot Service without, by the playing of the Ordinance from within, that they were forced at last to Retreat Ingloriously.

Not far distant from this City stands an ancient House,* 1.26 belonging formerly to the Family of the Bodenhams, since in the Possession of the Heirs of Mr. Van-Acker, which is one of the most delight∣ful and sweetest Seats in all this part of the Coun∣ty, having a spacious Park before it, the River Wye behind it, pleasant Meadows on the one side, and fruitful Tillage on the other, and having had such great plenty of Apple-Trees belonging to it, as we were credibly inform'd by those that knew it, that take but one Apple from each Tree, and it would make a Hogshead of Sider; and the Country People there have a Proverb, which goes currant amongst them, Every one cannot live at Ro∣theras, it having formerly been a place of too profuse Hospitality.

Having spent some time at Hereford, and being now upon the Borders of Wales, we resolved to make a visit to some parts of that Country: To this purpose we Travelled into Monmouthshire,* 1.27 in some places very Fruitful, and in others as Bar∣ren, though Nature supplies those Defects, by gi∣ving the Inhabitants great plenty of Iron, which proves to them a very advantageous Commodity.

We found the ways near Monmouth very hard and rugged,* 1.28 and that Town to be environ'd with Hills on all sides, the Ruins of its Wall and Castle argue its great Antiquity; it hath a fair Church and Market-place, with a Hall for the Assizes and Sessions; 'tis govern'd by a Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen, and the Inhabitants do generally speak both the Welsh and English Tongue: They told us there of great Immunities and Privi∣leges

granted to them by the House of Lancaster; but for nothing is it so much Renown'd, as in that it was the Native place of Henry V. that dreadful Scourge of the French, and glorious Pil∣lar of the English Nation, who Conquer'd Charles VI. King of France, and maugre all the Scoffs and Affronts put upon him by the Dauphin, as parti∣cularly when he sent him a Tun of Tennis-Balls in dirision of his Youth, thinking him more fit to play with them, than to manage Arms, did at length toss such Iron Balls amongst them, that the best Arms in France were not able to hold a Racket to return them. Here likewise was born that famous British Historian, Geoffrey, Archdeacon of Monmouth, who lived under King Stephen, a∣bout the year 1150, of whom is made this Ob∣servation, by the Learned Archdeacon of Carlisle, in his English Historical Library, that having a pe∣culiar Fancy for Stories surmounting all ordinary Faith, his History being Epitomiz'd by Ponticus Vitruvius, an Italian, is of a Complexion fitter for the Air of Italy than of England: Hither, they say, do the Welsh Men come down in great crouds out of South-Wales, as they do likewise to Ludlow out of North-Wales, and make their Appeals up∣on divers Occasions, and Commence their Suits, which upon Court-days are very Numerous and Trivial, for the Yeomanry are generally warm and litigious, and make often good Work and Sport too for the Lawyers.

After we were pass'd this Town, we found the Ways still more troublesom and uneasie, and were entertained with no other Objects, but what the stony Rocks, and dangerous Cliffs, the towring Mountains,* 1.29 and craggy Precipices did afford us, being covered with Flocks of Sheep, or Herds of Goats, or Multitudes of Oxen, which they call Runts. The Rusticks will tell you, that upon the Black Mountain, or near it, are some Hills which are so high, and whose Tops are so sharp, that

two Persons may stand upon two different Points thereof, and discourse with one another, and un∣derstand one another with great Facility, although they must be forced to traverse a long Circuit of Ground before they can meet to embrace each o∣ther: But though I will not answer for the Truth of this Story, sure I am, that there are many of those Mountains of so unconceivable a Height, and so steep an Ascent, that they seem to be, as it were, Nature's Stair-Cases, by which we may climb up to some higher Regions, and have an Entercourse and Correspondence with the Inhabitants of the Moon, or converse more frequently and familiar∣ly with the Aereal Daemons.

Having with much Difficulty scrambled over some of these Mountains, we arrived at a Town in the furthermost part of this County, which is called Chepstow,* 1.30 which signifies in the Saxon Lan∣guage, a Market, or place of Trade; this Town hath formerly been Fortified with Walls, though more naturally with Rocks, with which it is en∣viron'd on all sides. It is still remarkable for its Castle built, as some affirm, by Julius Caesar, after he had conquer'd Britain, which is strong, and generally well guarded with a convenient Garison: 'Tis seated upon the Wye, with a strong wooden Bridge over it near its fall into the Severn. The Water flows here 11 or 12 Ells high at every Tide, as likewise at Bristol, an extraordinary pro∣portion in comparison of most places besides on the English Shore. The Lords hereof have an∣tiently been Earls of Pembrook, or Strighull, so cal∣led from a Castle of that Name, not far distant from this place; the last of whom was Richard, Sir-named Strong-bow from his Nervous Arms, wherewith he could most dextrously use his Bow, and was the first Champion that made an Inroad for the Normans into the Kingdom of Ireland.

Whilst we were in these parts, we made the best Enquiries after South-Wales,* 1.31 which we had not

then an opportunity to travel over, and from some of the Natives, who were very Communica∣tive, and ready to make what discoveries they could of the Rarities of their own Country, we made a shift to Collect this short Account.

* 1.32Brecknockshire is one of the most Mountainous Counties of all Wales, but between its Mountains there are many fruitful Valleys; it has four Mar∣ket Towns, amongst which Brecknock is the chief;* 1.33 three Miles from which is a Hill, called Mounth-Denny, that hath its Top above the Clouds, and if a Cloak, Hat, or the like, be thrown from the Top of it, it will, as they Report, never fall, but be blown up again; nor will any thing de∣scend but Stones, or the like.

* 1.34Two Miles East from the same place is a Mere called Lynsavathan, which (as the People dwelling there say) was once a City, but was swallowed up by an Earthquake, and this Water or Lake succeeded in the place: They Report likewise, that after a long Frost, when the Ice of this Lake breaks, it makes a fearful Noise like Thunder, possibly, because the Lake is encompass'd with high steep Hills, which pen in the Sound, and multiply it, or else the Ground may be hollow underneath, or near the Lake.

* 1.35Through this Lake runs a River called Levenny, without mixtures of its Waters, as may be per∣ceived both by the Colour of the Water, and also by the quantity of it, because it is no greater after∣ward than when it entred the Lake.

* 1.36Cadier Arthur, or Arthur's Chair, is a Hill so called on the Southside of this County, from the Tops resembling the form of a Chair, proportio∣nate to the Dimensions of that great and mighty Person, upon the Top whereof riseth a Spring as deep as a Well, four-square, having no Streams issuing from it, and yet there are plenty of Trouts to be found therein.

Radnorshire, in the East and South parts there∣of, is more fruitful than the rest,* 1.37 but is uneven and rough, with Mountains, yet it is well stored with Woods, watered with running Rivers, and in some places with standing Pools; the Air is cold and sharp, because the Snow continues long unmelted under the shady Hills, and hanging Rocks, whereof there are many; and upon the Borders of it, which lies next to Herefordshire, runs a long famous Ditch, which Offa, King of the Mercians, with great Toil and Labour, caused to be cast up from Deermouth to Wymouth, for the space of 90 Miles, to separate the Britains from the English: There are in it four Market-Towns, amongst which Radnor is the Principal,* 1.38 being seat∣ed in a pleasant Valley near the River Somergil, which runs at the foot of a Hill, on the Top whereof stands the Ruines of an ancient Castle, de∣molished by that notorious Rebel, Owen Glen∣dore.

Glamorganshire hath a temperate Air,* 1.39 and is generally the most pleasant part of all South-Wales; it is replenished with divers convenient Towns, a∣mongst which Cardiff,* 1.40 which stands near the Sea, where Robert the Eldest Son of William the Con∣queror died after a long Imprisonment, is reputed the most Eminent, a Mile above which stands also on the River Taff Landaff,* 1.41 one of the four Epi∣scopal Sees of Wales: 'Tis one of the most ancient Sees either in England or Wales, claiming a direct Succession from the Arch-Bishops of Caer-leon up∣on Ʋske; it is adorned with a Cathedral consecra∣ted to St. Telran who was Bishop here, which Church Germanus and Lupus, French Bishops, then Erected, when they had suppressed the Pelagian Heresie, preferring Dubritius, a very devout Per∣son, to this Bishoprick, unto whom Meurick, a British Lord, gave all the Lands which lie be∣twixt the two Rivers, Taff and Elri * 1.42.

* 1.43On the top of a certain Hill, called Minyd-Mor∣gan, in this County, is a Monument with a strange Character, which the Dwellers thereabouts say, if any Man read the same, he will die shortly after.

* 1.44Upon the River Ogmore, and near unto Newton, in a Sandy Plain, about a hundred Paces from the Severn, Springs a Well, in which at full Sea in Summer-time, can hardly any Water be took up, but at the Ebb it bubleth up amain: 'tis most ob∣servable in Summer, for in Winter the Ebbing and Flowing is nothing so evident, because of the Veins of Water coming in by Showers, or otherwise; besides, it is observed, that this Spring never riseth up to the Spring, or overfloweth; and Polybius relates the same of a certain Well at Cadiz.

Clemens Alexandrinus saith, That in Britain is a Cave under the bottom of a Hill, and on the top of it a gaping Chink, where when the Wind is gathered into that Hole, and toss'd to fro in the Womb of it, there is heard, as it were, a Musical sound like that of Cymbals: It is not unlikely that he might point at the Cave at Aberbarry in this Shire,* 1.45 the Story agreeing very near with the Qua∣lity of this Cave: It is mention'd by my Lord Bacon, in his History of Winds to this effect, That in a certain Rocky Cliff, in which there are Holes, if a Man lay his Ears to them, he shall hear di∣vers Noises, and rumbling of Winds; now these Noises Cambden saith, are as well to be heard at the lowest Ebb, as the highest Flood.

* 1.46Carmarthenshire, though a most Hilly Country, yet it hath a wholsom Air, and though the Soil be not very fruitful in Corn, 'tis well stored with Cattle, and in some places yields good Pit-Coal for Fuel: On the South side the Ocean hath with so great Violence encroached upon the Land, that the Country seems to have shrunk back in a fright, and withdrawn it self more inwardly for Security.

Carmarthen,* 1.47 the chief place of it being a pretty distance from the Sea, is situated between pleasant Meadows and Woods: The Residence kept here by the Princes of South-Wales, made it anciently very Eminent, and it became a Prey to the Nor∣mans in the Reign of William the Conqueror.

Near Carreg-Castle are many Caves of great wideness within the Ground now covered all o∣ver with green Swerd and Turf,* 1.48 wherein 'tis pro∣bable, the Multitude, when unable to bear Arms, when the Normans made their first Incursions into these parts, hid themselves during the heat of the War; where also is a Well that like the Sea, Ebbs and Flows twice in 24 hours.

That Cardiganshire being a Hilly Maritime Country, was not formerly planted,* 1.49 or garnish∣ed with Cities, may be gathered from that Speech of their Prince Caratacus, who being taken Priso∣ner by the Romans, and carried to Rome; when he had throughly viewed the Magnificence of that City, What mean you, saith he, when you have such stately Buildings of your own, to covet such poor and mean Cottages as ours are?

Its chief Town is Cardigan,* 1.50 pleasantly seated upon the Tivy near its fall into the Sea, which Ri∣ver parts this County from Pembrokeshire; and o∣ver it here is a Stone-Bridge, supported by several Arches.

Pembrokeshire hath a good temperate Air,* 1.51 con∣sidering it lies so near to Ireland; the Inhabitants are now many of them Dutch Men, and formerly, as it appears from Giraldus Cambrensis, they were like the Romans of old, very skilful in Soothsaying, by looking narrowly into the Entrails of Beasts, and by their Manners and Language, are so near akin to the English, that upon this Account this Country is call'd Little England beyond Wales.

About Three hundred years ago it was repor∣ted, That for five Generations, the Father of the Family, in the Earldom of Pembroke, whose Names

then were Hastings, never saw his Son, the Fa∣ther dying always before the Son was Born.

At the time when Henry II. made his Abode in Ireland, there were extraordinary violent and last∣ing Storms of Wind and Weather, so that the San∣dy Shoar on the Coasts of this Shire were laid bare to the very hard Ground, which had lain hid for many Ages; and by further Search, the People found great Trunks of Trees, which when they were digged up, were apparently lopped, so that they might see where the stroaks of the Axe had been upon them, as if they had been given but a little before; the Earth also looked very black, and the Wood of these Trunks like Ebony, as the Report then went. At the first discovery made by these Storms, the Trees we speak of, lay so thick, that the whole Shoar seem'd nothing but a lopped Grove, from whence may be gathered, that the Sea hath overflow'd much Land on this Coast, as it hath done upon the Shoars of many other Countries bordering upon the Sea, which is to be imputed to the Ignorance of former Ages, who had not those excellent Arts and Ways to re∣press the Fury of the Sea, which have been since discover'd.

* 1.52About Kilgarran are abundance of Salmons ta∣ken, and there is a place call'd the Salmons-Leap, as there is also in other Rivers, probably for this Reason, the Salmon coveteth to get into fresh Wa∣ter Rivers to Spawn, and when he comes to places where the Water falls down-right, almost Perpen∣dicular, as some such like places there be, he useth this Policy; he bends himself backwards, and takes his Tail in his Mouth, and with all his force un∣loosing his Circle, on a sudden with a smart Let-go, he mounts up before the fall of the Stream; and therefore these downright falls, or little Cataracts are call'd the Salmons-Leap.

* 1.53In this County is St. David's, now only a Bi∣shop's, though formerly an Archbishop's See,

Translated from hence by Sampson the last Archbi∣shop, to Dole in Bretagne: Here is a fair Church, Dedicated to St. Andrew and St. David, which be∣ing often spoiled and ruined by divers foreign Pi∣rates as standing near the Sea, it was after this re∣edified by Bishop Peter the 49th Bishop of this Di∣ocess, who lived in the Reign of King Henry II. hard by which stands the Bishops Palace, and fair Houses of the Chanter, (who is next to the Bishop, here being no Dean) and of the other Dignita∣ries, all enclosed round with a Wall, whereupon they call it a Close.

'Tis reported by some Historians, That while David, Bishop of this See, who was a very sharp Stickler against the Pelagian Heresie, was one day very zealously disputing against those erroneous Tenents, the Earth, whereon he then stood argu∣ing, rose up by a Miracle to a certain height un∣der his Feet.

From South-Wales our Curiosity led us over the Severn to Bristol,* 1.54 undoubtedly one of the principal Cities in this Kingdom; if we consider the state∣liness of the Buildings, or its Natural and Artifici∣al Fortifications, the Commodiousness of its Har∣bour, and its most pleasant Situation at the Influx of the Frome into the Avon, which five Miles from hence empties it self into the Severn, its lof∣ty Churches, and its stately Palaces, the great Con∣course of Foreigners, as well as the great Number of Native Citizens upon which ac∣count no wonder if both the Counties both of Somerset and Glocester, do contend which of them may be most glorious and happy in its Superiority over them, and yet neither of them can attain to that Honour, it being both City and County of it self, and having particular Privileges, im∣munities, and Laws of its own: 'Tis governed by a Mayor, and two Sheriffs, twelve Aldermen, with other Ministers and Officers befitting its Dig∣nity; 'tis environ'd with a double Wall, and a∣dorn'd

with two Navigable Rivers: Avon, which at Spring Tides, is 11 or 12 Fathom deep, and Frome, over which stands a Stone-Bridge, with Houses built on both sides, consisting of four large Arches: It is very convenient for the Ships, and larger Vessels to Anchor in, and hath a Key suffi∣ciently commodious for the Exporting and Im∣porting of Goods out, or into the Merchants Houses; this returns back into the River Avon, and so both by their mutual Union enrich this City, and augment its Happiness. At what time it was first built, it is very hard to determine, only it is supposed to take its Rise in the Declination of the Saxon Empire, at the time when Harold is said to have sail'd from Brickstowa with a great Na∣vy into Wales: Robert, Son of William the Con∣querour made choice first of this place, to begin his War against his Brother William Rufus, and did encompass it with the Inner-Wall, as some con∣jecture, part of which in some places is still to be seen; and what Spoils he then took, he lodged here for safety in the Castle, about the year 1088, as the Saxon Chronicle informs us, where himself afterward was kept Prisoner, as was also King Ste∣phen, by the Order of Mawd the Empress; from which time it hath been still receiving great En∣largements, and by degrees is risen to that Emi∣nency we now behold it; and as its Houses are fair, and its Streets clean, so are its Gates strong, and its Churches glorious, consisting of Nineteen Parish-Churches, whereof, though that which is the Cathedral, and Mother-Church, Dedicated to St. Austen, and endowed for a Bishop by King Henry VIII. ought to have the Precedency, as well for that Honour, as for its Antiquity too, which is remarkable by the Inscription over the Door of the Porch,

Rex Henricus II. & Dominus Robertus filius Hardingi, filii Regis Daciae, hujus Monasterii Primi Fundatoris.

* 1.55Yet notwithstanding this, the Church of Ratcliff in the Suburbs of this City, is a more noble Structure, being curiously Arched, and made a stately Fa∣brick all of pure Stone, without any Additions of wooden Beams, or Rafters; not one Stick being made use of throughout its whole Compages: The Steeple is foursquare, and of a very great height, but most artificially Carved with divers Sculptures, all at the Cost and Charge of one Mr. Cannins, a Merchant of this City, about 110 years since, who in the Erecting this famous piece of Architecture, employed at his own Expence, 800 Labourers and Artificers, besides Masons and Carpenters, to the number of 300, in all, 1100 for three years to∣gether, untill the Work was totally compleated, and in it his Monument doth now stand in Marble; but may his Memory be more lasting than the Marble, and his Name more durable to succeding Generations than the noblest Mausoleum, or Mo∣nument can make it.

* 1.56On the Northern side of this City are several high and craggy Rocks, by which the River Avon gently glides along, till it returns back again into the Severn, one of the chief whereof is call'd St. Vincent's Rock, which hath great plenty of Pellu∣cid Stones, commonly call'd Bristol Stones: The Learned Mr. Cambden hath observ'd, That their Pellucidness equals that of the Diamonds, only the hardiness of the latter gives them the Pre-eminence; and yet certainly Nature never made greater De∣monstrations of her Art than in such wonderful Phaenomena, as we here observ'd in this place, having made some of the Stones as smooth as the most expert Jeweller could have done, as round

and sharp, as broad above, and small beneath, as the greatest Artist could have effected, shaping some of them with four, some of them with six Angles apiece, like the Stones which we usually set in Rings; and to make us still the more to ad∣mire her Perfections, she hath not given them all one Colour, but some of them are like Chrystal, clear, and some are of a more ruddy and sanguine Complexion, according to the nature of the Soil, by which means she causeth the Production not to be unlike the Parent.

There is one thing here still very remarkable; and that is the Hot-Well,* 1.57 which is just at the bottom of this Rock, and at the very brink of the River Avon, by which, though it is still overflow'd every Tide, yet it still retains its natural heat, and by its constant Ebullitions, purgeth away all the Scum, or saltish Froth it might have contracted from the salt Water; the Water is exceeding wholsom, very good to purge away ill Humours, and purifie the Blood, it gives some ease in the Stone, and is useful, as is reported, for sore Eyes too, which makes it much frequented and resorted to by all sorts of People.

From this Renowned City we travelled into So∣mersetshire,* 1.58 a County of a very rich Soil, Com∣modious for its Havens, pleasant for its Fruit, pro∣fitable for its Pasture and Tillage, and sociable for its Inhabitants. Some will have it, it takes its Name from its comfortable Air, and the wholsome re∣freshing Gales it affords in Summer, which indeed then is truly affirm'd of it, though in Winter-time that part of it which lies low, moist and fenny, must needs be troublesom and unhealthy; that part of it which lies betwixt Bristol and Wells, is more Hilly and Mountainous; and the Hills call'd Men∣dipp-Hills,* 1.59 under which Wells is situated, are very remarkable, being in old Records call'd Munedupp, or rather Moinedupp, from the many Knolls there visible, and steepness of their Ascents; as also

Mineragia from their richness of leaden Mines, the Ore of which being digged thereabouts in great a∣bundance, and afterward melted down into Pigs and Sows, as they are there call'd, the Lead is convey'd to Bristol, and from thence it is transpor∣ted into divers other parts.

Wells,* 1.60 which is the chief City of the Province, receives its Denomination from the variety of fresh and wholsom Springs, which bubble up about it, the Houses therein are well contriv'd, and built of Stone, the Government by the Mayor and his Brethren safe and regular; but the chief Ornament hereof is the Cathedral, built by King Ina, in ho∣nour to St. Andrew, enlarged by Kenewulph, one of his Successors, and since much enriched by the Li∣berality and Piety of divers Religious Benefactors; it was made a Bishop's See in the Reign of Edward the Senior, and Athelmus was constituted the first Bishop here,* 1.61 but afterward Johannes Turonensis uni∣ted Bath and Wells together, and ever since the Bi∣shop hath received both these Titles. In the late unhappy times of Charles I. this Church under∣went the same Calamities, which was then in this Nation the Lot of all such Religious places, and became a grateful Prey to Rapine and Sacrilege; but at the happy Restauration of our Religion and Government, it returned again by degrees to its Primitive Magnificence and Lustre, and the Quire of it yields now to few for Workmanship, whe∣ther we consider the Artificial Bosses very delicate∣ly gilded, which adorn it above, or the curious Columns which uphold it below, or the Bishops Seat of Marble, set out with most glorious Embel∣lishments, supported with rich Pillars, and with its Towring Pyramids being the Head and Orna∣ment in a more especial manner of the Quire, as he is of the Church: To this I may add the va∣riety of carved Images, which almost environ the Body of the Church without, containing the Hi∣story both of the Old and New Testament, and

the curious Architecture of the Chapter-House, sup∣ported only by one large Column, which stands in the middle of it; to all which may be added the Bishop's Palace built Castle-wise of great Gran∣deur, which appositely becomes a Father of the Church to be seated in.

But the most remarkable, and which cannot but have the Suffrage of all Travellers to be the most admirable piece of Nature's Workmanship in our English Nation is a place call'd Ochy-Hole, some two Miles distant from this City, 'tis a Cave un∣der a high Rock, situated among the Mendipp-Hills I before mention'd, of which I shall endeavour to give a Description as briefly as I can

* 1.62After that we had with some difficulty climbed up to the top of a Rock, we went along the Brow of the Hill till we came to the Mouth of the Cave, where a Door being open'd that gave us an En∣trance, we lighted up Candles to direct us in the way, and took Staffs in our Hands to support us in our Passage, and in we ventur'd: Having gone forward some few paces, we found the Cave very craggy as well as hollow, and so dark, that no∣thing sure but Tartarus it self could resemble it; the Candles, though six in number, and of a large size, scarce burning so bright, as one great one doth usually in an open Room, we then thought certainly we were arrived upon the Confines of the Infernal Regions, or else were got into some such dismal place as the Italians tell us the Sibylline Grotto is, and we began to be afraid we might probably meet with the same unwelcome Entertain∣ment the Boeotick Cave of Trophonius used to give those who were so curious to visit it; namely, that though they enter'd in frolicksom and merry, yet they should certainly return out of it sad and pensive, and never laugh more whilst they lived upon Earth: Such dreadful Apprehensions did at first seize upon some of us, and, indeed, we had cause to fear such dismal Operations might proceed

from this, as well as from the other, since both were equally uncomfortable, by reason of their deprivation from the least glimmerings of light, and consequently had the same Circumstances to beget both horrour and astonishment: however we pluck'd up our Spirits, and crept in one after another, as fast as we could conveniently.

The Cave, as we went along, was parted into several kind of Rooms; the names whereof our Guides informed us to be thus: The first was the Kitchen, in which by the Door sticks out a large mass of the Rock, which they tell us was the Por∣ter's Head formerly the Keeper of this Cave; it seems to bear that kind of resemblance, and tho' by that is a Stone which they call the Tomb-stone, under which they report that he lies interred, and his Dog hard by him too, metamorphos'd into the same lapideous Substance, yet their Transfor∣mations are not so strange and wonderful, though perhaps something too fabulous to be given credit to, as the variety the Rock affords into which they are incorporated, part of it glistering like Silver, and part like Diamonds, and both appear∣ing very pleasant to the Eye. A little farther on the Right Hand is another piece of the Rock, that bears the resemblance of a Bell; and on the Left, of a Vessel, which they term a Ceave, in which the Beer of an old Sorceress (Cousin to the famous Circe, Lady Governess of this dismal Cave) used to be work'd in. 'Tis a hollow Ci∣stern of a considerable depth, always filled with Water, and now and then flowing over, to which the drops of Water which continually trickle down from the top of the Rock, add every mo∣ment fresh supplies. Hard by this stands another Vessel of hers too, in which, they say, she used to wet her Malt; they call it the East-Hurdle: 'Tis likewise hollow, and of a pretty depth. And how appears to your view the old Witch her self, heating, as it were, her Furnace, which looks at

first view black and sooty, but inwardly seems to be a Statue of Alabaster, by reason of its whiteness, though it is most probably the product of Nature, not of Art, because the place is very unfit and un∣suitable for any Artist to exercise his Skill in, it being very oft so low, that it is impossible here and there for any one to stand upright in it, and therefore it was that we were enforced frequently to stoop, and buckle almost double, for fear of dashing our Heads against the Rock, until we came to some Steps we were to descend, where the descent likewise was tedious and frightful; for on the Right Hand the Rock hung over us very low and sloping, and on the Left a Rivolet which, with a pretty loud noise, glides along the Cave, made us cautious in our Steps, till at last we came Sweating into another Room, which is called the Hall; and here at first sight we were en∣tertained with as great a Rarity as Nature hath in all her Store-Houses: 'Tis a Cistern almost square, about six Foot each way, and of a considerable depth, always brimful of Water, supplied by the drops which continually fall from above, and yet never runs over: and the reason is this, because as the Water increaseth, so doth the Cistern too, and both of them had then been observed, within the space of Twenty Years, to have received a conside∣rable augmentation; which is the more probable, because the Water is of a petrefying nature; and if any thing be cast into it, in a short time it disco∣vers this secret quality by an outward incrustation of that which is thrown in. The drops which hang above are like congealed Icecles, as clear as Crystal, some of which falling down into the Water grow harder in substance, though they ap∣pear pretty pellucid. Round about this Hall hang four Stones resembling four Flitches of Bacon, for the outside is blackish, and the inside white. In this place the Daughter of the old Sorceress hath took up her residence, and appears to your Eye

like a Statue of a Woman big with Child; she is of a different colour from her Mother, being much more dusky. But nothing is more pretty to behold than those which they call the Organ-Pipes, placed upon one side of the Rock, and are very like to those we have in our Churches, some being of bigger, and some of lesser dimensions; in the middle of a good reasonable thickness, though at the ends sharp and slender. After some more difficulties in our Passage, and no less dangerous than before, we came into another part of the Cave, more strange than any we had yet seen: 'Tis a place which they call the Dancing-Room, so well contrived and arched above, that Nature hath here wrought what Art can never be able to attain: If you look up, the variety of Colours which are there to be seen by the light of the Can∣dles, and the checquered Configurations of the Rock, which is now very high above your Head, will both feast your Eyes and refresh your Body, which by that time is sufficiently wearied by the tediousness as well as the trouble of the Passage; for there is so great a glistering, such a lustre as it were of Silver and Precious Stones about you, that you would be ready to mistake your self, and think that you were in the Palace of some great Monarch of the World, and not in the subterra∣neous Caverns of the Earth. If you look down, there you will find no stony, hard, rugged tract to perplex you, but a fine, even, sandy Floor to divert you; and indeed it was beyond expecta∣tion, that we who had beheld before nothing but such craggy Stones and dangerous Passages, should at last arrive in so spacious and delightful a Place: They told us it was not unusual for the Gentlemen and Ladies in those Parts to bring Musick and Dance here, the Musick, by reason of the Eccho, making a Melody more sweet than ordinary. We paused and breathed a little here, delighting our selves as well with it, as also with the resemblance

of a Chimney, which we took really to be one, it being of that Fashion, and having in it a kind of black moist matter, which, if you touch, it will stick to your Fingers and black them like Soot, and yet no Fire was ever known to be there. But we were not as yet satisfied, though we were near half a Mileunder Ground in a dismal Grotto, but went on farther to a place termed the Cellar, that is curiously Vaulted; and 'tis very usual to carry Bottles of Wine, and drink there upon a Stone Table, which is formed out of the Rock. In this place lies a huge Massy Stone, which they call the Great Gun; the nature of which is this, take it but up in your Hands, and let it fall down to the Ground, and a great Gun cannot give a louder report: We tried this experiment thrice, but we thought the Rock we were under would have rent in Pieces about our Ears, yet they who were half way in the Cave, or at the Mouth of it, or above it, heard no noise at all; this we found experimentally true, for one of the Gentlemen who entred in with us, being beat out with the difficulty of the Tracts, staid about the middle-way, and when we returned back to him, he assured us, that where he stood he had heard nothing of a noise. But at length, at the end of the Cellar, after we had gone down lower some few Steps, a Rivolet there was that gave a period to our Progress; it was pretty deep, and as clear as Crystal, the Water extream cold, but very pleasant to the Palate, and runs along the Cave sometimes in a small, and sometimes in a larger Current, where taking up some of the congealed Matter that lies at the bot∣tom of it, we found it very hard, of a dusky co∣lour, and of a round consistency, just as if a little company of Hailstones were cemented and joined together, and the River running along under Ground, tho' its Head from whence it first springs, like that of the Nile in Egypt, is not as yet plain∣ly discovered, and conveying it self at last out of

the Cave sets, as they say, Thirty Mills on work, after it comes into the adjacent Country.

When we were got thus far, almost a Mile under Ground, as our Guides told us, we began to consider how we should return, and get out safe again from this place of Horrour and Dark∣ness to the Regions of Light, being afraid to find the same Difficulties we had encountred with in our entrance. But though the place was some∣thing resembling an infernal Abyss, and our Pas∣sage into it proved so troublesom and irksom, yet we came back without any toil, or rather with great facility and pleasure, notwithstanding it is impossible to find out the way without a Guide, there being so many windings and turnings; nor could the Guides themselves ever extricate them∣selves out of this darksom Labyrinth, but by the light of Candles, whereby they are enabled to steer their Course. However at last we made a shift to creep up again to the top of the Rock, just as merry Lucian tells us old Menippus did out from a hole in Lebadia, after he returned from Hell, and had ended his Discourses with the Ghosts below, and went back to the place where we first dismounted, and left our Horses to graze with the neighbouring Shepherds.

After we had got breath,* 1.63 and were a little re∣cruited, we mounted again, and rode away for Bath, which by several old Writers is called Aca∣mannum, Akemancester, from the old Roman way called Akemanstreet-way; which, say Antiquaries, took its name from them that being full of Aches and Achings, made it their way to this place for ease of their Pains. We could not discover it, un∣til we came just upon it, lying low, and on all sides surrounded with Hills, out of which issue forth many Springs of a wonderful virtue, though some of them are very Sulphureous and unplea∣sant to the Taste. It is watered with the Avon, over which it has a Stone-Bridge, and is environed

with a Wall, commodious for its Market-place, and handsomly adorned with three Churches, one whereof is very large and spatious, built in the form of a Cathedral, the Steeple is four-square, and hath a Ring of tunable Bells, and the Quire is grac'd with a small but sweet Organ: And in it are erected several ancient and stately Monu∣ments of Persons of great Quality, and of some Bishops of this See, who have been most noble Be∣nefactors to it. 'Tis govern'd by a Mayor and Aldermen, and the Assizes are generally kept there in the Summer time: But that which is most remarkable, and causeth a concourse not only of the Nobility and Gentry, but of the Commonalty too from all parts of the Nation hither, are the Baths, which are not inferiour to any whatever in Europe: The Waters herein are hot, of a blue∣ish Colour, strong scent, and send forth thin Va∣pours; and as, without question, they have strengthened many weak and feeble Limbs, so do they cure divers Diseases, which are incident and destructive to humane Nature, by causing Men to Sweat either more or less proportionably to their Distempers. There are four or five which are principally in request, one Triangular, and called the Cross-Bath, from the Cross that stood formerly in the midst of it; 'tis about twenty-five Foot long, and as broad at one end, the heat of it gentler than the rest, because it has fewer Springs. Whilst we continued in the Town, we were presented by the Serjeant of this Bath with a piece of Earth, which was digged up here at the loss of a Spring; it smelt like Sulphur, and burnt like Soot. We saw likewise a piece of an Elm-Tree, which was digged up at the same time, together with the Skull of a Woman taken up then too, which are supposed to have lain there many Years before the Bath was so enclosed. The Orders are strict and regular, and Persons of the greatest Quality prefer to bathe here, and to drink

the Water hereof with Limona Sugar, rather than of the other. Hard by this stands the Hot Bath, not much frequented save by those who have quite lost the use of their Limbs, the Water hereof being much hotter than the rest. Not far from this is that which they call the Leper's Bath, which is be∣liev'd to be very efficacious against that loathsom Disease, and an Hospital or Spittle, built by Reginald, Bp. of Bath, for the use of poor, aged, decrepit People. About the middle of the Town, nearer to the great Church, are the King and Queen's Baths, divided only by a Wall; the last having no Spring in it, but receiving the Water from the King's Bath, which is about 60 Foot square, and has in the middle of it many hot Springs that make its heat the greater: Each of these two Baths have a Pump to pump Water upon the Diseased; and I have observed some Persons who have been troubled with great Pains in their Heads, or other parts of their Body, have suffered very great quantities of this scalding Water to be poured on them by their Guides. Hereabouts, formerly, was found an ancient Statue of Hercules amongst other great Mo∣numents of Antiquity, holding a Serpent in his Hand, which was discover'd in the Ruines of an ancient Temple, perhaps that which was here Consecrated to Minerva, and it might be thought very convenient, that he being the Tu∣telary Patriot of such places, and having so fre∣quently exposed himself to hard Labours, and manifold Dangers, might now and then ease, and refresh his wearied Limbs by such Purgations, as the Bath could afford him. In this, and other Baths, hang divers Crutches of lame and decrepit Persons, which they left behind them as Trophies of their Recovery, being perfectly cured of their Lameness and Infirmity, and restor'd again to their former Health and Strength. There is still one behind, which is call'd the Horse-Bath, which is said to be as effectual for the cure of lame and

foundred Horses, and the removal of some other Distempers, which are incident to those kind of Animals.

* 1.64Having pass'd away some few days very plea∣santly in this Town, we set forward for Wiltshire, a County healthy, pleasant, and fruitful; the Nor∣thern part of it is Hilly, and hath formerly been shaded with thick Woods, and well watered with wholsom Springs; the Southern part is plain and open, very convenient for feeding great Flocks of Sheep, and through the middle of it, from East to West, a great large Ditch runs across, call'd Wanedike, the Banks whereof, as the Vulgar will have it, were thrown up by the Devil on a Wed∣nesday: But the Learned Mr. Cambden is of Opi∣nion, That it was made by the West-Saxons, for a Boundary to their Kingdom against the Merci∣ans: We travelled over some of these wide and large Plains for near twenty Miles, untill we ar∣rived at a place call'd Stonehenge, some four or five Miles distant from Salisbury.

* 1.65It is call'd by ancient Historiographers, Chorea Gigantum, from its Magnitude, and contains with∣in the Circumference of three hundred Foot, a rude and indigested Mass of vast large Stones, rough, and of a grey Colour, 25 Foot in length, 10 in breadth, and 8 in thickness: they look as if they were hewn square, and are joyn'd two and two together, and every couple hath a third Stone lying across, which is fasten'd by Tenons that enter into Morraises, not closed with any Mortar; it ap∣pears as if they had been set in three Ranks go∣ing round as Circles one within another, whereof the uttermost and largest contain in compass about three hundred Foot, but the other Ranks are decay'd, and some of them being fall'n down to the Ground, as it is something difficult to compute their Num∣ber, so if they be rubbed, or scraped, and Wa∣ter thrown upon the Scrapings, they will (say some) heal any green Wound, or old Sore. It is

very strange to think how such vast Bulks should happen in this place, whenas there are no other kind of Stones even of smaller Dimensions near, or about it, therefore some not irrationally con∣jecture that they are not Natural, or had their first growth here, but were Artificially cemented into that hard and durable Substance from some large Congeries of Sand, and other unctuous Matter mixt together; Just as there hath been visible at Rome, Cisterns made of Sand and Chalk so artifi∣cially and closely conjoyn'd, that they have pass'd for the Product of Nature, and not of Art, and therefore it is not an improbable Conjecture, which is made by the Author of the History of Alchester, Publish'd amongst other Parochial Antiquities of Oxfordshire, by the Industrious Mr. Kennet, that they are not, as some Fable, Giants Stones fetch'd from Mount-Karel in Ireland, by Merlyn's Art, that Renowned Magician, but might be made out of that Cliff over-against old Sarum, the colour of which Clay they still represent; and being scra∣ped with a Knife, a Man may discern this Clay cemented with some other glewy Substance, as Plaister of Paris and such like, Erected not in Me∣mory of those Nobles, whose Tombs in heaps of Earth appear still thereabouts, slain treacherously by Hengist, when he call'd, his Son-in-law Gourti∣gern, and the Britains to feast there; but for a Tro∣phy of some Memorable Victory thereabouts ob∣tain'd, as Necham the Poet saith, by Ʋter Pendra∣gon; or as others, by Arthur the Valiant, and to that seems the ancient Bard Theliesinus to allude: But Necham's Verse is this:

Uter Pendragon molem transvexit ad Ambri Fines de victo Victor ad hoste means.

Uter Pendragon brought these Stones to Ambrosbury Coast, For Trophies of his Victory, had on the Pagan Host.

* 1.66From hence we rode to Salisbury, or Sarisbury, which some derive from Caesar's Burg, and in our way beheld the place where formerly old Wilton, the Metropolis of this County, stood which had then upon its Gates, in honour to the Romans, a black Spread-Eagle: It was also call'd Willey, or Ellandun, that is, Elen's Town: for here, or at Chloren, or at old Sarum, saith the Al∣chester Historian, being, before Guns were inven∣ted, an invincible hold, St. Helen, at her return out of Wales, did remain as well for her better Safety; as also to be near the South-Seas, to ex∣pect daily News and Tydings from Constantine the Emperour in the East Parts; as also from his Sons, her Nephews, who were in the Western. 'Tis si∣tuated (saith Cambden) where the two Rivers, Willeybrook, and Adderbourn meet: and here it was that Egbert King of the West-Saxons in the year 823, fought the second Battle against Beor∣wulphus the Mercian, so bloody on both sides, that the River Avon was dyed red with the Blood of the Slain: And in the year 871, Alfred having maintain'd a long Fight against the Danes, up∣on the first onset had Success, but was at last quite Routed, his Forces defeated, and himself forced to fly to save his own Life. In the Saxon Reign it mightily flourish'd, and Edgar building there a Nunnery, made his Daughter Editha, Lady Governess thereof, afterwards being long exposed to the Fury of Suenus the Dane, who was its mor∣tal Enemy, and deserted by the Bishops, who were its main support, it went to decay, and al∣most return'd again into its first Principles of No∣thing; and so Sorbiodunum, or old Salisbury then, and since new Salisbury, which hath sprang from that, have quite extinguish'd its Primitive Lustre and Glory. Old Salisbury was seated upon a Hill, expos'd much to Winds and Storms, very dry, barren and uncomfortable, by reason of the great defect of Water throughout the whole City, tho'

it was well fortify'd, as appears still by some re∣maining pieces of old Walls. Kinricus the Saxon; in the year 553 first sack'd, and took it, being very fortunate in all his Enterprises he undertook against the Britains; and in the Reign of Edward the Senior, Osmund, Bishop of Sherborne, Transla∣ted the See hither, and built a Cathedral Church, though Suenus the Dane, not long after having ta∣ken and burnt the City, that likewise underwent the same fatal Calamity, and were both levell'd with the Ground, till both of them were raised a∣gain in William the Conquerour's time; for after that he had made his Progress throughout England, he at last summoned all the three Orders of the Na∣tion to meet here, and take the Oaths of Allegi∣ance to him: But after this, in the Reign of King Richard I. the Citizens being oppress'd by the in∣solency of the Soldiers, and very much incommo∣ded by a continual want of Water, resolv'd to free themselves from these Inconveniencies, by transplanting themselves into another Soil, which they unanimously agreed upon, and seated them∣selves about a Mile from this place, in a more plea∣sant Valley, where the Flowry Meads, and Chry∣stal streamed Rivers gave them a more chearful Welcome, and endearing Entertainment. After the Plantation of this new Colony, Richard Pore first Bishop of Chichester, and then of this place, did likewise transplant the Cathedral from that barren dry place, in which it was first Erected near to the old Castle of the Earls of Salisbury, and built it at last in a more pleasant Soil, and by the Advice and Contrivance of the most excellent and ingenious Artificers, not only Natives, but Fo∣reigners, whom he drew hither by his large Re∣wards, he raised it to that Splendour and Magnifi∣cence, that it now vies both for Stateliness and Workmanship, with the most noted Cathedrals throughout the whole Kingdom. The Steeple is built in form of a Pyramid, very high, and as the

Pole-Star directs the Pilot at Sea, so doth this Spire direct the wandring Traveller over the Plain, dis∣covering its lofty Head near the distance of twenty Miles; but the Admirableness of the Structure consists in this, That it hath as many Pillars as there are Hours in the Year, and these not so closed, but you may see the Interstices betwixt them, and shake some that are of a lesser size; as many Win∣dows as there are Days in the Year, and these very Artificially adorn'd, and curiously painted to Ad∣miration; and as many Gates as there are Months, all which are thus comprised in an ingenious Copy of Verses:

Mira canam, Soles quot continet Annus, in unà Tam numerosa, ferunt, aede fenestra micat. Marmoreasque tenet fusas tot ab arte Columnas, Comprensas horas quot vagus Annus habet. Totque patent portae, quot mensibus Annus abundat, Res mira, at verâ res celebrata fide.

In English thus:

How many Days in one whole Year there be, So many Windows in one Church we see. So many Marble Pillars there appear, As there are Hours throughout the Fleeting Year. So many Gates as Moons one Year doth view, Strange Tale to tell, yet not so strange as true.

And as the Church was then Re-edify'd, so was the City much enlarg'd, by which means since its Houses are grown stately; its Guild-Hall for the use of the Mayor and Aldermen is beautiful; its Churches are many and glorious; its Streets, by reason of divers Rivolets, convey'd in Chan∣nels through the midst of them sweet and cleanly; its Gardens delightful, and fragrant, and nothing wanting to please and gratifie either the Eye or Palate.

From hence we coursed over the Plains directly to Winchester,* 1.67 which by Antiquaries has been call'd Venta Belgarum, as Bristol was Venta Simenorum; and amongst the Britains it had the Name likewise of Caer-Guent: It was of great Repute amongst the Romans, and no less famous in the time of the Saxons, and flourished as greatly under the Power of the Normans, till once or twice both Fire and Sword in an envious Emulation strove together to deface it; but it is grown again since very fair and populous, large and stately, is computed within the Walls to be about a Mile in length, is pleasant∣ly seated in a Vale betwixt two Hills, and hath six Gates which give Entrance into the City, tho' it was much defaced in the late Civil Wars; as like∣wise the Castle which formerly hath been accoun∣ted altogether impregnable. This is the Castle that Mawd the Empress having held out, after she had taken it, a considerable time against King Stephen, and after by a close Siege being in great danger to be Re-taken, fearing by that means to fall into her Enemies Hand, she secured her self by this cun∣ning Stratagem; she commanded it should be given out for a Truth, that she was certainly dead; and upon this order'd her self to be carried out upon a Bier, as if she had been so indeed, and by this means provided for her own safety. Upon the Wall hereof hangs the Round Table so much talk∣ed of by the Vulgar, and call'd King Arthur's Round Table; whether this can justly claim so great Antiquity, as is attributed to it, I shall not under∣take to determine; yet certain it is, that these very Tables are of a long standing, for formerly, after Justs and Turnaments, when there happen'd to be any great Entertainments amongst the valiant Champions of the Nation, it was usual for all such to sit round them,* 1.68 least any difference should arise amongst the Noblemen about Superiority of place. About the middle of the City stands the Cathedral, built by Kenelwalch King of the West-Saxons,

who, after the expulsion of Agilbert, con∣stituted Wine a Saxon born and ordain'd in France the first Bishop there, and it hath been Dedicated to divers Patrons accordingly, as it has been re-e∣dified by different Benefactors, viz. to Amphiba∣lus, St. Peter, St. Swithin, and now to the holy and undivided Trinity. Here it was that Queen Emma, upon the suspicion of Adultery, by the trial of Fire Ordeal, walking barefoot over nine hot Plough-shares without hurt, ascribed this mi∣raculous Proof of her Innocence to St. Swithin, Patron of this Church, and afterward in a grateful acknowledgment bestow'd great Donatives upon it. It was always held in great Veneration by the Saxons, because divers of their Kings were Interr'd in it, and was call'd by them the old Monastery, to distinguish it from the new one founded by Alured, in which he placed a Fraternity of Presby∣ters, who it seems, by a great Miracle of the Cross speaking, and disapproving their Order, were all expell'd from thence by Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury, who substituted Monks in their Room: These Monasteries were joyn'd so near to one ano∣ther, that it did often create a Disturbance at their Devotions, and hence arose great Feuds and Con∣tentions amongst the Brethren: besides a great Cur∣rent of Water running from the Western Gate of the City in divers Channels to this new Monastery, did stagnate, and so caus'd the Air to be foggy and unwholsom. Hereupon, the Church, about two hundred years after it was built, was Translated to the Northern part of the City, which they call the Hide, where, by the Permission of King Henry I. the Monks built another fair and stately Monastery, which in the space of a few years, by the Trea∣chery, as some suppose, of Henry, Bishop of Win∣chester, was reduc'd to Ashes: In the Conflagra∣tion whereof 'tis Storied, That the rich Crucifix given by King Canutus, who was buried here in the old Monastery, saith the Saxon Chronicle, in

the year 1036, in the making of which was ex∣pended the Revenues of one whole year through∣out this Kingdom, was burnt likewise; after which another Monastery was erected, which continued till the Expulsion of Monks out of England, in the Room of whom there have since been placed here a Dean and twelve Prebendaries. The Church is now curiously adorn'd with Monuments of anci∣ent Hero's and Bishops of this See. William Wain∣fleet Founder of Magdalen-College in Oxford, lies here Entomb'd with his Heart in his Hand, and Cardinal Beaufort, and Bishop Gardiner that bloody Scourge to the poor Protestants in Q. Mary's days, who did so insatiably thirst for the Blood of Queen Elizabeth, but was always cross'd in his most wick∣ed Inclinations; there lies also the Lord Weston, Earl of Portland, whose Monument is of Brass, and by him his Father, who lies in Marble; here is likewise preserved the Chair of State, in which Queen Mary was Married to King Philip, and near to it lies Entomb'd, the Countess of Exeter, who was Godmother to King Charles II. and very re∣markable is the Chappel of Bp. Fox, where he now lies, Founder of Corpus Christi-College in Oxford, which he built for his own use, together with his Study and Press for his Books all in one place; in the Quire under a plain flat Marble Stone, lies the Body of Will. Rufus. This King receiv'd his mortal Wound as he was Hunting in the new Forest, by Sir Walter Tyrrel, who shooting at a Deer, hit this Prince unawares in the Breast, of which he died immediately, and was brought hither and buried in this place; though afterwards, they say, his Bones were translated and put into the same Coffin with those of King Canutus. At the West End of the Quire stand two Statues in Brass very curiously wrought, the one of King James I. and the other of his Son King Charles I. of Blessed Memory; but that which is most remarkable in this Cathe∣dral, is the rich and famous Monument of William

of Wickham, who from a mean Beginning, by the Favour of Edward III. was created Bishop of Win∣chester, and having after this run likewise through all the Grand Stages of Temporal Honour in this Kingdom, though now and then the Wheel of Fortune turn'd very cross against him, he by that means became no less a Benefactour to the Church, than he still approved himself an Ornament to the State; and to perpetuate his Name with the grea∣ter Glory to succeeding Generations, he built in this City a College, and liberally endow'd it for the Education of Youth, and for a Seminary to New College in Oxford, also founded by him; and notwithstanding the great Expences he must needs have been at, in Erecting two such large and noble Structures as these were, he Re-built like∣wise the present Body of the Cathedral, where his own Body lies Interr'd: Nor did all this lessen his Charity, or diminish his Hospitality, for he fed both Rich and Poor, as his Tomb Stone informs us, and for all this died exceeding Rich; and de∣ceasing in the Reign of King Henry IV. when he was Fourscore years old, he bequeathed great Le∣gacies to Persons of all Degrees, and gave some∣thing at his Death to every Church throughout his Diocess * 1.69. Here is one thing yet further not to be pass'd by in Silence, That when King Alfred di∣vided his Kingdom into Counties, Hundreds, and Tythings, he had an Inquisition taken and dige∣sted into a Register, call'd Dome-boc, which was reposited in the Church of Winchester, thence call'd Codex Wintoniensis, a Model afterward followed by William the Conquerour, in his Domes-Day Book, which Mr. Kennet observes was for some time kept in the same Church.

But to return again into our Discourse relating to the City, we find it not only to have attain'd a great Eminency for its Religious Houses, for its pleasant Gardens, for its Brooks and Meadows, for its publick and private Edifices, for its great

Hall, wherein the Assizes are usually held for the County of Southampton, not to be parallell'd for length and breadth by any throughout this Nation, except Westminster, but likewise for the true and exact Rules of Equity and Justice, which are fol∣low'd and prescrib'd by its chief Magistrates and Governours, and before we take our leaves of it, we shall add for a Conclusion, that as in the time of Athelstane King of the West-Saxons, that Invin∣cible Hero, Guy Earl of Warwick, is reported, in a single Combat, to have slain Colobraild, the Danish Giant in Hide-Mead near this City; so Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland, being beheaded here with∣out the Walls, in the Reign of William the Con∣querour, is observ'd as the very first Example of Beheading in this Island.

Having took a sufficient Prospect of the great Curiosities of this place,* 1.70 we advanc'd forward in∣to Surrey, q. d. South-Rey, from its Situation on the Southside of the Thames, the Saxons calling that Rey which we term a River. The Skirts of this County are noted for their Fruitfulness; and the middle parts for their Barrenness, which has occasion'd the saying, That Surrey is like a course piece of Cloth with a fine List: However, in point of Health, the middle parts have the advantage, besides the Pleasure they yield by their Downs in Hunting and Horse-Races. 'Tis adorn'd is most places with very stately Palaces of Gentlemen and Merchants, who by reason of the Parks well stor'd with Deer, and the Rivers replenished with Fish, have no Divertisement wanting to recreate their Bodies, and gratifie their Senses.

The first Town of Note we ariv'd at here was Farnham,* 1.71 receiving its Denomination very proba∣bly from the great quantity of Fern which grows thereabouts. 'Tis a Town of no very large Extent, but situated in a wholsom Soil, and a pleasant Air; and for its further Accommodation, hath the con∣veniencies of a Market for those Commodities

which the Inhabitants mostly want: Here it was, that in the year 894, saith the Saxon Chronicle, King Alfred routed a great Army of the Danes, with a small Party, taking from them a conside∣rable Booty, and putting them to flight to the Ri∣ver Colne in Essex: After this, when King Stephen gave a general Toleration for building Castles and Fortresses, Henry his Brother, then Bishop of Win∣chester, built for himself in this place a magnificent Castle, but proving in length a Nursery and Re∣ceptacle for Sedition and Rebellion, King Henry III. quite demolish'd and pull'd it down, though af∣terwards it was again Re-edified by the Bishops of Winchester, to whom it peculiarly belongs, and is at present a glorious Seat for the Prelates of that See.

* 1.72Passing from hence through Guilford, a Town of good Note, seated on the River Wey, consist∣ing of three Parishes well frequented, and full of fair Inns, we observ'd here still the Ruines of a large old Castle near the River, and have since learnt, That the Saxon Kings had formerly a Roy∣al Mansion here, in whose times it was a place of a greater Extent.

* 1.73Coming after this to Kingston, a Market-Town of good Resort, we were inform'd, that it went anciently by the Name of Moreford, but after that, chang'd its Name to Kingston, when it had the Honour to become a place for the Coronation of the Saxon Monarchs; Athelstan, Edwin, and Ethel∣red, being here Crown'd Kings upon an open Stage in the Market-place.

* 1.74And now we began to draw near to our Jour∣nies end; but calling in at Richmond, heretofore call'd Sheen, we found it still a Town of a consi∣derable Account, though perhaps no less in the Reign of King Edward III. who, when he had lived sufficiently both to Glory and Nature, died at this very place. King Henry VII. gave it the Name of Richmond, from the Title he bore before

he obtain'd the Crown of England, and ended his Life here, as did after him (here likewise) the most Glorious and Puissant Queen Elizabeth.

From hence pacing along by the Noble River Thames, which is on both sides of it wonderfully graced with many pleasant Towns and Villages, we arriv'd again in safety at the Renown'd Metro∣polis of England.

The End of the First Journey.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Middle∣sex.
• * 1.2

  Uxbridge
• * 1.3

  Bucks.
• * 1.4

  Becons∣field and Wickam.
• * 1.5

  Oxford∣shire.
• * 1.6

  Oxford.
• * 1.7

  Burford.
• * 1.8

  Glocester∣shire.
• * 1.9

  The River Severn.
• * 1.10

  Cirence∣ster. It was cal∣led by the Britains Kaerceri Rudborn's Hist. of Winche∣ster.
• * 1.11

  Gris∣mund's Tower.
• * 1.12

  Burlipp-Hill.
• * 1.13

  Glocester.
• * 1.14

  The Whis∣pering Place.
• * 1.15

  Astroites at Lassing∣ton.
• * 1.16

  Tewks∣bury.
• * 1.17

  Homes-Castle.
• * 1.18

  Worce∣stershire.
• * 1.19

  Worce∣ster.
• * 1.20

  This City was called by the Bri∣tains Ka∣erkoran∣gon. Rud∣born.
• * 1.21

  Bosel was the first Bi∣shop here, say the An∣nals of Worce∣cester. Angl. Sacr. pars prima.
• * 1.22

  Hereford∣shire.
• * 1.23

  Mereford.
• * 1.24

  Kenche∣ster.
• * 1.25

  St. Ethel∣bert's Well.
• * 1.26

  Rotheras.
• * 1.27

  Mon∣mouth∣shire.
• * 1.28

  Mon∣mouth.
• * 1.29

  Vast high Mountains in Wales.
• * 1.30

  Chepstow
• * 1.31

  South-Wales.
• * 1.32

  Breck∣nockshire.
• * 1.33

  Breck∣nock. Mounth-Denny-Hill.
• * 1.34

  Lynsava∣than Mere.
• * 1.35

  Levenny River.
• * 1.36

  Cadier Arthur.
• * 1.37

  Radnor∣shire.
• * 1.38

  Radnor.
• * 1.39

  Glamor∣ganshire.
• * 1.40

  Cardiff.
• * 1.41

  Landaff.
• * 1.42

  Mr. Whar∣ton's Angl. Sacr. Pars Secunda p. 667.
• * 1.43

  Minyd-Morgan Hill.
• * 1.44

  The Springs by New∣ton.
• * 1.45

  Aberbar∣ry Cave.
• * 1.46

  Carmar∣thenshire
• * 1.47

  Carmar∣then.
• * 1.48

  The Caves and VVell near Car∣reg-Castle.
• * 1.49

  Cardigan∣shire.
• * 1.50

  Cardigan.
• * 1.51

  Pembroke¦shire.
• * 1.52

  The Sal∣mons-Leap at Lilgarran
• * 1.53

  S. David's
• * 1.54

  Bristol.
• * 1.55

  Ratcliff-Church.
• * 1.56

  St. Vin∣cent's Rock.
• * 1.57

  The Hot-Well.
• * 1.58

  Somerset∣shire.
• * 1.59

  Mendipp-Hills.
• * 1.60

  Wells.
• * 1.61

  Angl. Sacr, pars prima, p. 556.
• * 1.62

  Ochy-Hole.
• * 1.63

  Bath.
• * 1.64

  Wiltshire.
• * 1.65

  Stone∣henge.
• * 1.66

  Salisbury.
• * 1.67

  Winche∣ster.
• * 1.68

  Mr. Whar∣tons Angl. Sacr, pars prima, p. 191.
• * 1.69

  See the Life of this Great and Worthy Pre∣late. VVrote by Tho. Chandler Chancellour of Oxford. Angl. Sacr. Pars a. p. 355.
• * 1.70

  Surrey,
• * 1.71

  Farnham,
• * 1.72

  Guilford.
• * 1.73

  Kingston.
• * 1.74

  Rich∣mond.