A new description of Paris containing a particular account of all the churches, palaces, monasteries ... with all other remarkable matters in that great and famous city / translated out of French.

The Church of Notre-Dame.

THis Church is the Cathedral of Paris, and the Seat of an Arch-Bishoprick, which was erected in the Pontificate of Pope Ʋrban the VIII. in the Year 1622. It was before that only a Bishoprick, but that very ancient; since St. Denis who lived but a little time after the Apostles, was the Founder. This Church, in the first Ca∣tholick Ages, was call'd by the Christians of those times, by the name of that Saint its Founder; but it being rebuilt in the Reign of Childebert, eldest Son of Clovis, about the year 522. it was then dedicated to the Holy Virgin, whose name it has ever since retain'd. King Robert one of the most pious and wisest Princes that France ever had, perceiving the antient Building not to have all that Beauty and Magnificence, which it might have; begun another, but the design being a vast undertaking, it was not brought to perfection till many Years after. Henry the First his Son, Philip the First, Lewis the Gross, Lewis the Young, and Philip Augustus his Succes∣sors, did all assist in the Work, and it was finisht under the glorious Reign of the last, as we may presume, because he is the last of those 24. whose Statues are set up on the great Frontis∣piece.

The Structure of this Church is of the Gothick manner, but the handsomest and best perform'd in France. It is very remarkable for its Gran∣deur and Solidity. The Vaults are very high

raised, and contain 17. Toises (a Toise is six Foot) in height, the breadth is 24. and the length 65. The 2. great squate Towers in the Front, are 34 Toises high, flat on the top, so that from this place one may easily and conveniently dis∣cover all Paris. The Bells that hang in the Towers are very fair ones, the biggest of them was cast but a while ago, for which purpose the Chapter hath been at a very considerable ex∣pence, and yet it hath no very pleasing Sound. All the Body of the Church is cover'd with Lead, and it is easie to judge what a prodigious quantity there goes to cover so great a Roof.

As for the inside of the Church, the Curious who are Lovers of Painting, will here find suffi∣cient satisfaction in viewing those great Pictures which all the Pillars are adorn'd with. Those in the Quire are much better than the rest. Here are two of M. Le Brun's hand, one representing the Crucifying of St. Peter, the other the Mar∣tyrdom of St. Steven. Here is also one piece of le Sueur's, representing St. Paul in the midst of a Publick Assembly, casting into a Fire the Books of Magick, before the Gate of the Temple, whose Portico is supported with Pillars: This Picture ought to be esteem'd as one of the choicest that can be seen, it being of the best manner of that excellent Master, who in the Judgment of some able Men, is esteem'd the Se∣cond French Painter of this Age, and next to the famous Poussin. In former Years on every first day of May, the Company of Goldsmiths did use to present a Picture to this Church, for the ma∣king of which they employ'd some renowned Painter, who had made himself known and gain'd a Reputation; but this Year the Custom

hath been intermitted, tho' we hope it will be continued again hereafter. There are few Cathe∣dral Churches in Europe, wherein the Divine Service is perform'd with more exactness and Reverence. The Chapter is composed of 50. Canons, among whom there are some very fa∣mous and of great Merit.

Among the rest, Monsieur Joli, the Chanter, and one of the Canons, is known to be a person of extraordinary Probity and Diligence in his Office, and who to his singular Merit hath ad∣ded a profound Learning. He hath made pub∣lick several Works, some of which are already very scarce to be met with. The principal are

An Historical Treatise of the Episcopal Schools, 1678.

Christian propositions for relief of the Poor, 1652.

A Voyage to Munster in the Year 1646.

A Translation of two Books of the State of Mar∣riage, composed by Francis Barbaro, a Noble Venetian.

A Christian Instruction for the Financiers, 1667.

Christian and Moral Advice for the Education of Children.

The Christian Widow, Dedicated to the late Queen-Mother.

Divers small Tracts collected from the Memoires of M. Antoine Loisel. Advocate in Parliament, his maternal Grandfather.

De Verbis Ʋsuardi quae in Martyrologio Ecclesiae Pari∣siensis referuntur in festo Assumptionis B. Mariae Virginis, in 12. 1662.

Traditio antiqua Ecclesiarum Franciae seu totius Imperii Occidentalis, quae in ipsius Martyrologio ad festum Assumptionis B Mariae Virginis referun∣tur, Vindicata, 1672.

There are also some other Books ascribed to him, Entituled

Recüeil de Maximes veritables & importantes pour l'institution du Roi.

Codicille d'Or, ou petit Recüeil tirè de l'Instution du Prince Chr••tien, composé par Erasme, mis en Francois sous le Roi Francois I. & a present pour la deuxiéme fois, aves d'autres petites pieces, 1665. in 12.

Traitè de la restitution des Grands, precedé d'un•• Lettre touchant quelques points de la Morale Chrè∣tienne, 1665. in 12.

De Reformandis horis Canonicis & rit•• constitu∣endis Clericorum muneribus, Consultatio, 1643. in 12.

This last mention'd Book is a most curious piece. He hath also compiled together the Works of Monsieur Guy Coquille, containing many Curious Tracts relating to the Liberties of the Gallican Church, in two Volumes in ••olio. He had a numerous Library, but gave it away to the Chapter about two years since, on Condition that it be publick, and that all sorts of People may have liberty to come and study in it freely. It is at present in a house in the Cloifter, behind the Draw-wells, on that side next the Church; and we may e're long see it considerably augmented, some other of the Canons having promised to add their ••ooks to it.

It ought to be observed that the Canons of this Church rise at midnight to go to Matines, which they still say at that hour, according to the ancient usage of the Church. There are some

antient Men among these hanons, who for 30. or 40. Years together, have not omitted one single time: and this is almost the only Church in the Kingdom, that hath Religiously conti∣nued this pious Custom, tho' so painful and troublesom, especially in Winter. The Ca∣nons places are of no great Revenue, yet they are much esteem'd, because they are very honou∣rable.

On Festival days you may see here very rich Ornaments. Their Silver Vessels, or Altar Plate, is of the best Workmanship. It consists of six great Candlesticks, and a Cross made by Monsieur Baslin. Over the Copper Pillars, be∣hind the great Altar, is the Shrine of St. Marcel, one of the first Bishops of Paris. It is of Silver gilt, adorn'd with precious Stones, and Enamel of a delicate Colour. On Whit-sunday they ex∣pose here a Suit of Ornaments of Crimson Sat∣tin, Embroidered with Pearls, some of which are very large. This was the gift of Queen Isabel of Bavaria, Wife of Charles VI. Which Present she made in order to obtain of God her Husbands Cure, being afflicted with a troublesom Distem∣per. The fair Suit of Tapistry, which they dis∣play here on the great Festivals, representing the Life of the Holy Virgin; is the gift of M. le Masle Prior of Roches, Chanter of this Church, and Secretary to the Cardinal de Richelieu, the same who gave his Library to the Sorboune. The Statue which we see on a Pillar on the left hand of the great Altar, represents Philip Augu∣stus, whose Wife is interred here in the Quire; as is also a Son of Lewis the Gross, who refused to be Bishop of this Church, because he would not by his own promotion, hinder that of the fa∣mous

Peter Lombard, who was chosen in his stead. The Tomb of Copper raised about one Foot from the Ground, near the Quire Door, belongs to a Bishop of Paris, named Odo de Sulli, in whose Pontificate this Church was finish'd; he lived in the Reign of Philip Augustus, and died in the year 1208.

In the Chapels behind the Quire there are more Tombs, the most considerable of which are those of the House of Gondi, originally of Italy, who came into France with Catharine de Medicis, the Cardinal de Retz, who died about 3. years since Abbot of St. Denis, and had been Arch-Bishop of Paris, was the second Cardinal of this Family. The Chapel of the Virgin, which is on one side of the Door that leads into the Quire, is adorn'd with many Silver Lamps, and abundance of other curious Offerings that have been made here. Some years ago they placed before the great Altar, that huge Lamp of Silver, given by the late Queen-Mother, which weighs 120. Marks, (a Mark is 8 Ounces) and is six Foot in Diameter. This Chapel of the Virgin, has been sometimes called the Sluggards Chapel, because of the very late Masses which were said here for such as lay long a bed: It was the only place in Paris that enjoyed this priviledge, contrary to the Custom of the past Ages, when it was forbid to say Mass after 10. a Clock. Over against this is the Statue of Philip de Valois, on Horse∣back Armed, and Caparison'd as the fashion was in his time. He is represented in such manner, as when he came into this Church, to return his Thanks for a Battel gain'd over the Flemings near Cassel; a Battle so Bloody that he saw 22000. of his Enemies dead upon the place.

Near this is a great Picture, representing Lewi•• XIII. in his Royal Robes, kneeling at the Feet of Christ taken down from the Cross; it is the Vow of that King made in a dangerous fit of Sick∣ness. I shall say nothing of the several Chapels round the Nave, all well Wainscotted and Pain∣ted; nor of the Galleries over the sides capable of holding a vast number of People; for this would be to engage too far into particulars. I shall only say that Paulus Aemilius, that famous Historian, is interr'd in this Church on the North side, but the precise place is not known. However you might have read this Epitaph not long since.

PAULUS AEMILIUS VERONENSIS, hujus Ecclesiae Canonicus, qui praeter eximiam Vitae sanctitatem, quantâ quoque Doctrinâ prae∣stiterit, judex atque testis erit Historia de rebus ••estis Francorum, posteris ab eodem edita.

OBIIT A. P. 152••. DIE 5. MENSIS MAII.

Paulus Aemilius of Verona, Canon of this Church, of whose great Learning, besides his extraordinary Sanctity▪ his History of France will be a sufficient testimony to Posterity.

He died in the Year 1526. the 5. of May.

In the Sacri••ty, you may see an excellent Bust of Cardinal de Richelieu, made by Cavalier

Bernin, which the Dutchess of Aiguillon gave to this Church by her Testament.

On the South side of this Church, stands the Archiepiscopal Palace, on the bank of the River Seine. The House makes no very handsom show on the outside, but is within very commodious and neat. Here is very handsom Furniture, and a Cabinet of choice Books. The Garden is but little, and consists only of one or two Alleys along the River.

Behind the Church of Nostre-Dame, stands another little one very ancient, call'd St. Denis du Pas, because the first Torment that they in∣flicted upon that Saint was in this place, where they put him into a hot Oven, from which he was deliver'd by a Miracle.

The Cloister where the Canons live is in∣closed with ancient Walls, within which they have their several Apartments. Formerly when they lived in Community like the Religious, Women were not suffered to dwell here; but since they have been Secularized, they have had distinct Lodgings, and it hath been permitted to those who have room to spare, to let out their Apartments, which has been the occasion to in∣troduce here all sorts of People.

M. Menage, so well known among the Learn∣ed for all his excellent Works▪ dwells in this Cloister. Every Wednesday he hath in his House a Meeting for the improvement of the Sciences, to which all Men who make any profession of Learning are freely admitted.

These are the most remarkable matters in this Cloister, which is join'd to the Isle of Nostre-Dame, by a Bridge of Wood, over which lies a Commu∣nication.

From hence, you pass before the Hôtel-Dieu. This Hospital is the principal and greatest of all Paris; they receive here indifferently all poor Sick People, and you may sometimes reckon here to the number of 4000. who are all enter∣tained and nourished with exceeding great Care. They are served by Nuns of St Augustine's Order, whose Rule is the more severe, in regard they are to spend their whole Life in this Exercise, which they could never undergo without admi∣rable Virtue and Patience, by reason of all those incommodities which they pass through, near so many poor Sick People, whose Miseries and Diseases render them equally froward and insup∣portable. This Hospital hath very great Re∣venues, and they encrease daily more and more, by reason of the gifts that are continually given to it. The building is not handsom, nay it is very incommodious, because it is straitned for Room; the Ground on which it stands being shut up on all sides. They have been therefore con∣strained to extend their buildings upon the very River, and to erect a great Room upon a long Vault, under which the Stream runs. Tho' there be here a very great number of Beds, they are not sufficient for that greater quantity of Sick which are brought hither every day; and some∣times they are constrained to put 3. or 4. in the same Bed. They have several and distinct Rooms, where they lodge those who are afflicted with like Distempers, that so the Disease may not spread. The Hall on that side next the Petit-Pont, whose outside is adorn'd with Figures, was built by Cardinal Anthony du Prat, Chancel∣lor of France, and Legate of the Holy See, about the Year 1535. It is thought that the first

Foundation of this great Hospital was laid by St. Landri, the 28th. Bishop of Paris, who lived under Clovis the 2d. in the Year 660. In the first Ages of Christianity, Bishops were, by a laudible Cu∣stom, obliged to Nourish and Lodge the Poor, as being the Dispensators and Trustees of the Poors ••state. For this reason they built Hospitals near their Cathedral Churches, to the end that so they might be the principal Administrators themselves; as at this Day the Arch-Bishop hath the chief direction here, with the Primier Presi∣dent, and the Procurer General; the Canons of Nostre-Dame have the Direction of the Spiri∣tuals.

St. Lewis, as William de Nangis, who hath com∣pos'd a History of France much esteemed, tells us▪ was a great Benefactor to this Hospital, and did considerably augment its revenue. Henry the 4th. did the like, giving wherewithal to build one of the fairest Halls, which is that of St. Thomas, raised upon a Stone Bridge, very solid, and finisht 1602. It is a very Edifying Curiosity to see in what manner the Poor are served in this Hospital. Princesses have sometimes performed here the vilest Offices of Ser∣vants; and even in our days we have known * 1.1one dye of a Dis∣ease which she caught here in giving some Broth to a Poor Creature. sick of the Small Pox.

Over against the principal Gate that goes into the Parvis de Nostre-Dame, you may see a great Stone Statue, very high, which represents a Man holding a Box in his hand, and a Serpent by his side. It is supposed to be the Statue of

Esculapius, God of the Physicians, who is presu∣med to have had some Temple in this place. On the Fountain behind this Statue, these Verses are ingraved.

QUI SITIS, HUC TENDAS DESUNT SI FORTE LIQUORES, PROGREDERE, AETERNAS DIVA PARAVIT AQUAS.

Come hither you that Thirst, and Water want, Go, and take living Water from the Saint.

All this Quarter is full of Churches, which in truth are but small but very ancient. Their names are

St. John le Rond, standing on one side of the Church of Nostre-Dame, and is the Parish Church of the Cloister.

St. Christophers, over against the same Church.

St. Geneviéve des Ardens, which has been so named, by reason of a famous Miracle, which happen'd through the Intercession of that Saint, when her Shrine was carried in procession to Nostre-Dame, in order to the obtaining a Cure for an Epidemical Disease, call'd Les Ardens, because those who were afflicted with this Distemper were inflamed with such a Thirst, that no Remedy could abate. This Miracle happen'd in the Reign of Lewis VI. in the year 1130. under the Ponti∣ficate of Pope Innocent the 2d. And for a perpe∣tual Memorial, this Church was built, it being

before that but a small Chapel; but in process of Time it is become a Parish Church, tho' the Parish be but of sinall extent.

St. Peter aux Boeufs, where they touch Cat∣tle with a hot Key, to keep 'em from running Mad.

St. Marine, the Parish Church of the Arch-Bishop's House, to the Curate of which Church are sent all Marriages, that are gain'd by Sentence n the Officialty.

St. Landri.

St. Symphorian.

St. Denis de la Chartre, where according to some Mens Opinions, that great Apostle of France, was put into Chains, and for some time cast into an obscure Prison, when he came to bring the Faith and Light of the Gospel into France. The late Queen-Mother, whose piety extended into many places, repair'd the Altar, and placed there all the Figures which you see, repre∣senting a Miracle which happen'd to the Saint, when he was shut up in this place; they are the Work of M. Anguerre. This Church is a Priory of the Order of St. Benet, enjoyed by M. l'Abbè Testu, one of the French Academy. Near to this is the Church of

Saint Magdelain. Some hold that this is one of the oldest in Paris, and that for this reason it is exempted from making Processions as others do. Here is a Fraternity that was formerly of so great Reputation, that the greatest Lords entered themselves of it, after the Examples of the King, and the Princes of the Blood. The other Churches are

Sainte Croix.

St. Peter des Arcis.

St. Martial.

St. Germain le Vieux. Whose great Altar is of a very handsom Wainscot Work, adorned with Corinthian Pillars of black Marble, with a Pi∣cture representing the Baptism of our Lord, Painted by Stella, an excellent Master. This Church was formerly dedicated to St. John Baptist, before they brought hither the Reliques of St. Germain, in the Reign of King Pepin, for fear they should be plundered by the Barbarians, if they remained in the Abby of his name, which at that time stood without the Town. That King himself assisting in carrying the Shrine upon his own Shoulders from the Abby to this place. In memory of the Miracle which then happened as they past by the little Châtelet, he gave to St. Germains the Estate at Palaiseau, six Leagues from Paris.

Lower in the Street near the Palais, are the Bar∣nabites. These Religious have been in the Possessi∣on of this Priory, but since the beginning of this Age before that time it belonged to the Order of St. Benet, under the name of St. Eloy. And the Re∣venues are re-united to the Arch-Bishoprick of Paris. Their Church is unfinisht. The House which they have erected here, about four or five years since▪ hath cost them more than 50000. Crowns; but it was a very necessary building, for before that they had hardly any Lodgings to lye in.

St. Bartholomew is also over against the Palais, to which and to all this Quarter it belongs as the proper Parish Church. This was formerly also a Priory of the Order of St. Benet, dedicated to

St. Magloire, but the Monks left it, to avoid the Tumult and Noise of the place, and removed to the Faux-bourg Saint Jacques, near the little Chapel of St. George, belonging to them at that time. This Translation was made, as hath been already said, in the Reign of Lewis the Young, in the Year 1138. This Benefice was since re∣united to the Arch-Bishoprick, and the Church made Parochial, the Extent of which Parish reaches to the Rüe St. Denis, St. Zue St. Giles was once annext to this; and we have known a Curate who was possest of both these Benefices, but they have been since divided because of the great distance.

The Church is obscure and ill built. The great Altar is of Wainscot Work, and of a hand∣som design. There is a Chapel on the right hand, in which you may see two Pictures of M. Herault's Work, one represents St. William, and the other St. Charles B••romeus. That over the Altar is of M. Loir's hand, and represents St. Ca∣tharine kneeling, and receiving on her Finger a Ring, which is put on by the Infant Jesus. The rest is not much remarkable.

Missire Lewis Servin, Advocate General in the Parliament of Paris, is interr'd in St. Bartholo∣mew's. He was a person who had gain'd by his extraordinary Merit, the Respect and Love of all those who knew him; and his Reputation was so great throughout all Europe, that the most Famous Men of Learning of his time, made it their glory to hold a Commerce by Letters with him, as we see in their Printed Works, where are some Letters of his, of wonderful Wit and Genius. His inviolable Fidelity for the Right side, gain'd him the Confidence of Henry III.

who made him his Advocate-General, after the dismission of Messire Jaques Faye Despesses, which Office he perform'd with a most exemplary Inte∣grity, until the Year 1626. in which he died, as he was making an Oration to Lewis XIII. then sitting on his Throne of Justice in the Par∣liament. The University, to whom he had done great Service, made him a solemn Fune∣ral at the Mathurins, where his Elogium was pro∣nounced in Latin. These two Verses may serve for his Epitaph:

Est satis in titulo Servinus, prob? jacet ingens, In mundo scivit scibile quidquid erat.

Servin's enough for Epitaph, here lies, Who knew whatever Science did comprize.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The Dutchess of Nevers, Mo∣ther of Madam R••iale, & of the Queen of Portu∣gal deceased.