The gentlemans recreation in two parts : the first being an encyclopedy of the arts and sciences ... the second part treats of horsmanship, hawking, hunting, fowling, fishing, and agriculture : with a short treatise of cock-fighting ... : all which are collected from the most authentick authors, and the many gross errors therein corrected, with great enlargements ... : and for the better explanation thereof, great variety of useful sculptures, as nets, traps, engines, &c. are added for the taking of beasts, fowl and fish : not hitherto published by any : the whole illustrated with about an hundred ornamental and useful sculptures engraven in copper, relating to the several subjects.

AGRICULTURE, OR HUSBANDRY.

PART VI.

Treats of the Improvment of GROUNDS, by Enclosures, Draining, and overflowing by Engines. By good Manuring, Til∣lage, Feeding, &c. with the benefit arising by the Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, and Clover Grass, shewing their Nature and for what Ground most fit. Of GARDENING for delight and profit, as the Rais∣ing, Sowing and Setting of Seeds, Plants, and Flowers. Of FRUIT-TREES, and how to Raise, Graft and Inoculate them; with the benefit accrewing thereby; as also by Timber and other Trees. The several sorts of BEASTS, FOWL, and IN∣SECTS necessary to be kept, and how to breed and order them; With a KALENDER, or Monthly Directions necessary to be known by the Husbandman.

CHAP. I.

The INTRODVCTION.

AGRICVLTVRE was of so as high an Esteem, and held so Honourable in For∣mer Ages, that the Philosophers; nay, Kings and Pinces, were exceedingly delighted, not [ 10] only in Rural or Country Habitation, but did al∣so Exercise themselves in this Noble Art. Giv∣ing Rules and Precepts (which by their Writings they left to Posterity to their Immortal Fame. And the Romans had so high an Esteem for A∣griculture, that they gave encouragement to the Industrious Husbandman, and punisht the negli∣gent; And when they gave names to their Tribes called the chiefest of the States the Rustick Tribes, and the meaner in degree the Vrbane. [ 20]

As to its Antiquity no Art stands in competi∣tion with it; for all know that the Country Life was the most Antient; for in the Infancy of the World, Men inhabited in Tents, Woods, and such like places, instead of Houses, and lived on the Fruits of the Earth by their Labour.

Plato saith, That a Country Life is the Mistress, and as it were the Pattern of Diligence, Justice, and Frugality, and that he could find nothing more pleasant and profitable, than a Country Life, where they live free from Pride, Malice, Co∣vetousness and Ambition. And Cicero discours∣ing of the Utility of several Arts, concludes, that nothing is more advantageous and pleasant, nor more worthy an ingenious Spirit, than Agricul∣ture.

Also Attalus, that rich Asian King, left his Regal Dignity, and betook himself to a Country Life, and was very intent in Agriculture, form∣ing and planting several Gardens.

Likewise Dioclesian the Emperour, left his trou∣blesom Empire, and betook himself to a Coun∣try Life, and would not return to his Em∣pire.

Many more Examples might be inserted, but these together with the multitude of the like Pre∣sidents which our Age and Country Affords, may suffice to convince any one of the Pleasure, Dignity, Peace, Content and Utility of a Coun∣try Life.

Agriculture is of a large Latitude comprehen∣ding not only all things that are produced from the Earth, as all sorts of Grains, Fruits, Herbs, Plants, Roots, Flowers, &c. but also such things [ 10] that have their Nourishment from the Earth, as Cattle, Fowl, Insects and Fish. Now the Hus∣bandmans great Skil and industry is to be used for the Improvement of the Earth to bring forth her better encrease, and how to Breed and order Cat∣tle, Fowl, &c. for the most advantage. There∣fore having so spacious a Field to walk in, I shall with what brevity I can, treat of the most essen∣tial things, especially those that befit the quali∣fication of a Gentleman to be a proficient in, [ 20] omitting the Rustick part of Plowing and Sowing of Ground, as also the Reaping, Mowing, making and Housing the Corn and Hay.

This Treatise for Method sake shall be divi∣ded into several Chapters, and first of Grounds and the Improvement thereof.

CHAP. II. [ 30]

Of Meadow and Pasture-Grounds and how to Improve them by En∣closures, Draining, and over∣flowing by Engines. As also by Manuring and feeding them; with [ 40] the great benefit arising by the Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, and Clover-Grass, shewing their nature and for what Ground most fit.

Of ENCLOSVRES. [ 50]

ENclosing of Land brings a very great bene∣fit to the Husbandman, and that in several respects.

First, It ascertains every Mans just Proportion of Land. Secondly, It prevents abundance of Trespasses and Injuries between Neighbour and Neighbour. Thirdly, It gives great advantage for several sorts of Improvement, as planting the Hedgrowes with Timber and Fruit-Trees, by enriching it with Crops of Corn, if converted to [ 60] Arable, or by sowing it with some of the new French-Grasses as Sain-foyn, Clover or Lucern; by feeding it with Cattle, or Mowing it for Hay, which Improvements cannot be made in Champain Countreys that are destitute of Enclosures. Fouth∣ly, It is observed that the Crops of Corn are bet∣ter than in open Fields; for if the Hedgrowes are tall, they keep the Land warm, and shelter it from those pinching Winds that destroy much Corn; And the Hedgrows: being well planted with Trees, give good shelter and shadow for Cattle, both in Winter and Summer. Fifthly, The Hedgrows are very profitable, affording Firing and Wood for the making Plough, Carts and the like necessaries; and Sixthly, the Hedgrows are profitable for Mast for Swine, and for Fruit for Sider and Perry. All which reason being so demonstrative, there needs no further Arguments to be laid down or perswasons used for Enclosures. One thing more give me leave to add, that is, En∣closed Grounds are far more pleasant and delight∣ful than the open Champain, and afford more diversion.

In the making of Hedgrows these Cautions are to be observed; Not to plant Trees not natural∣ly agreeing with the Soyl they were removed from; that is to say, not from a rich moist and worm Soyl, into a cold, barren and dry; not to plant them too deep, in the barrenest Earth; To defend them from the external injuries of Cold, Drought, or prejudice of Cattle, which must be by fencing or enclosing them in by an artificial dry Hedge on both sides.

For Hedges the best are Quickset of Whitethorn; and to set them on the flat is far better than on the side, if a dry Bank; as hath experimentally been found: Three Rows are sufficient for a good thick Hedge; the richer the Soyl is, the better will the Quick grow, and the sooner come to perfect∣ion. You must keep them free from Weeds which may be easily done with a Hoe; if the Quick be set exactly in Ranges, and about Nine Inches asunder will be thick enough. The Nursery Quick doth far surpass that which is drawn up out of Woods or Hedgrows, therefore in the Sea∣son when the Haws are ripe, let a sufficient quan∣tity be gathered, and sown in a Bed well prepa∣red in some convenient place in your Nursery, or Garden; after a Years growth they must be set, and if you keep them longer they should be transplanted into Beds, as being sown too thick.

For Marsh or Watery Meadows Quick-set Hedges are not so customary, yet they will grow well on the Banks, and are very serviceable and commodi∣ous to Cattle; the most usual Fences are Willows, Popler and Osiers, being Aquaticks, and are very quick growers, and by consequence greatly pro∣fitable; for tis observed that a Willow and an Oak being set at one time, the Willow will buy a Horse, before the Oak will buy a Saddle.

A Popler is also a quick grower, and affordeth a better Wood than a Willow. The Osiers are cut every Year, and are of great use for divers things about a Country-House, as for Baskets, Hurdles, &c. These, as also the Popler and the Willow, are cut from the Trees sharpned at the points, and so thrust deep into the Ground near the sides of Ditches, to the end they may have the benefit of the moistness of the Water to nourish them. Let the Sets be busht about to keep them from the injury of Cattle for Three or Four Years, and keep them clear from Suckers that will spring out in the Bodies, which hinder their heading.

The best way to set them is in Rows, and at about Five Foot asunder; but the Osiers are to be hrust in the Bancks close to the Water side, and at about 9 Inches distance.

Some are of Opinion, that Enclosures do oc∣casion Mildews and Blastings; but that is a vulgar Error. 'Tis true, Wheat is subject to it, both in Champain and other Countreys, as well as in Enclosures, in Moist Years, and on Rich Grounds. [ 10]

Of Meadow and Pasture Grounds.

MEadow, and Pasture Grounds, are of two kinds, viz. Wet, and Dry: The Wet are properly called Marsh Grounds, being those that are subject to Overflowings, as well Naturally, as Artificially, by the help of Engines. The Dry Meadows are such as are Vplands, and by [ 20] reason of their Enclosures are subject to Improve∣ments by propagating of new Grasses, or Hays; as the Clover, Trefoyl, Sainfoyn, &c. of which in order.

Of Marsh, or Wet Meadow Grounds.

WET Meadows may be considered under three distinct Heads; First, Such as lye near the Banks of Rivers on a Flat, and have the benefit of overflowing by Land-floods: Se∣condly, [ 30] Such that lye near Rivulets, and may be oversflown by stopping the Current, and turning it upon them: And Thirdly, Such Grounds that lye above the Surface of the Wa∣ter, and are overflown by the help of Engines to raise up the Water, and cast it upon them. All which sorts of Ground are very improveable by Overflowing, especially by the first, as leaving a more Fatning Substance behind, so that the charge and trouble of Dunging such Grounds [ 40] may be spared; but for those that cannot be Overflown without the help of Engines, the Manuring is very profitable: for upon such the Water is made use of chiefly in a Dry Season, yet were they Overflown about a Month or five Weeks before Mowing time, the Advan∣tage would be sufficiently found by the great Burthen of Grass, especially if it prove a Dry Season: Also to Overflow them after Hay-Harvest, will produce a Second Crop, or make [ 50] excellent good After-Pasture, recompencing the labour in a Tenfold manner. But by the way of Caution, let not the Water lye on the Grounds, if possible, above Forty eight Hours; for if it lieth too long it Chills the Ground, and doth far more hurt than good. Therefore your Grounds must so be ordered by Rillings, to carry off the Water into Ditches, and those Ditches to convey it into Rivers; and for the better perform∣ing the same, the Bills and Ditches must always [ 60] be kept open, scoured, and in good order.

There are several sorts of Engines to be used for the Overflowing of Grounds, as the Persian-Wheel, so called, as being there first used, and is now very common in Italy, Spain, and France, and draws up great quantities of Water. This Engine is to be placed near the Banks of Rivers.

But although this Invention, as indeed the Wind-Mill Engine, and some others, are of good use; yet of late Years there are other of far more worth and excellency for this purpose, Invented by that Ingenious Gentleman, Sir Sa∣muel Moreland; and which are exposed to Sale by his Substitutes, especially by one now dwel∣ling in Southampton Buildings, London, where you may make choice of such as are most fit for your purpose.

Rules to be observed in the Overflowing of Grounds.

THe Water being raised to the designed height, let the main Carriage be cut, al∣lowing it a convenient Descent, to give the Water a fair Current all along: Also let the Mouth of the Main Carriage be of breadth rather than depth, sufficient to receive the whole Stream desired, and when you use but a part of the Water, let the Main Carriage grow Narrow by degrees, unto the end the Water may press into the lesser Carriages that comes from the Main.

At convenient Distances, and where the Ground riseth, small Tapering Carriages should be cut proportionable to the distance and quan∣tity of Water, or Land; for although it seemeth to waste Land by cutting so much Turf, yet it proves otherwise, for the more nimble the Water runs over the Grass it is the better, which is occasioned by making many Carriages, and those very shallow.

The Drains must be so made as to carry off the Water the Carriage brings on; for as the lesser Carriages convey the Water to every part of the Land, so must the lesser Drains be made amongst the Carriages in the lowest places, to convey away the Water, which must widen as they run, and the Carriages be lessened, for if the Water be not well drained off, it proves very prejudicial to the Grass; for in the Winter it killeth it, and in the Spring, or Summer, it obstructs its growth, and breeds Rushes and Weeds.

Of Dry Meadows, or Pastures, and the Improvements to be made thereon.

MAny good Meadows are spoiled by being pestered with Ant-Hills, Shrubs, Fern, Broom, or Goss, insomuch that good part thereby is lost, and cannot be Mowed, and that which remains is not so beneficial as if Mown, or Fed together. For the clearing the Ground of such Anoyances, Mr. Platt hath invented an Ingeni∣ous Instrument, which something resembleth a three Tined Dung-Fork, but much larger and stronger, the Stale thereof being like a large and strong Leaver; which Instrument set about half a foot distance from the Root of the Shrub, then with an Hedging Beetle drive it in a good depth, and so force it up by the Roots.

For destroying Ant-Hills, being provided with a sharp Paring-Shovel, divide the Turf on the Top into four parts or quarters, laying them open several ways; then take out the Core, which spread on the Land, and lay the Turf again neatly in its place, but a little hollowing or sinking in, that is, lower than the Surface of the Earth, so that at the beginning of the Winter the Water standing therein will destroy the Re∣mainder of the Ants, and by the Spring settle the [ 10] Turf.

In Cold, Moist, Claiy, Spewy, Mossy, or Rushy Ground, where the Pasture, or Hay is sowr and short, about July, or August, cause the Turf to be pared off and burnt, as hereafter shall be directed, and Plow it up; and in the Spring let it be Sown with Hay-Dust, or with Corn and Hay-Seed mixt together, which will cause a great fertility, and alter the Nature of the Ground. [ 20]

The best Season for Dunging of Meadows is in December, January, and February; for in these Pluvial Months the Fatness of the Soyl will be washed to the Roots of the Grass, before the Sun drieth it away; and for the breaking the Clods use a large Wad of Bushes, to draw over the Ground with a Horse in the nature of an Har∣row; and what Stones are in the Dung cause to be gathered off the Ground, for they do not only hinder the growing of the Grass, but en∣danger [ 30] the spoiling the Scyth in the Mowing it.

For such Grounds that are Sandy, Hot, and Dry, the best Manuring is Marl, Chalk, Lime, or the like Cold Soyls: and for Cold, Rushy, Spewy, and Mosly Lands, use Ashes of Wood, Turf, or Sea-Coal; also Pigeons Dung, and all Hot and Sandy Soyls; and betwixt these two Extreams, viz. Hot and Cold, the common Dung made by Horses and Cattle may be bestowed upon the [ 40] Grounds betwixt both.

Of the several kinds of Grass, and Hay. CLOVER GRASS.

THere are several sorts of Clover, but the best is that which is brought from Flan∣ders, and bears the great Red Hony-Suckle, having a small Seed about the bigness of [ 50] Mustard Seed, and the best is of the greenest yellow Colour.

The best way to Sow this Seed, is to mix it with Ashes, Sand, fine Dust, or the like, that will help to fill the Hand, the Seed being so small, and therefore not so well to be Sowed of an exact thickness in all places of it self; yet good Seedsmen will do it well alone, and then it is best: Also observe in Sowing it, to chuse good Calm Weather. [ 60]

The Season to Sow it is in the beginning of April, or latter end of March, if it be likely to prove a Dry Season; and you must allow to an Acre about a Gallon, or Nine or Ten Pound; some say less, but you had better over than under Seed it. The Land must be brought to a good Tillage, then Sow first your Corn, causing the Ground to be well Harrowed, and then the Clover-Seed, Harrowing it with a Bush to cover it over with Earth; for if you should do it with Harrows, the Corn would be raised up, and so spoil the Crop. Be sure to be provided with good New Seed, otherwise your Crop will be but indifferent, and there is great Deceit used in it by many Seedsmen.

This Grass is said to be so profitable, that it will produce three or four Crops in a Year, that is, three to Mow, and one to Feed; the first Crop may be cut in Mid May, which should be Cut green, and before the Stalk begins to grow too big, as also too Dry and Wither, unless it be kept for Seed, and then it must be quite Ripe, otherwise the Seed will be hard to Thresh out. Now for your Directions to know when it is Ripe, the Stalks will Dye, and turn of an yel∣lowish Colour; but if you intend any for Seed, the best is the second Crop, about July: when the Seed is Threshed out, the Straw is good for little except the Fire.

Some are of Opinion, that the Clover will grow on any Barren Ground; but by Experi∣mental Knowledge it is found otherwise, and that the Richer and Better the Ground is, the better will be the Clover; therefore Sow it not upon Heathy Barren Ground.

As to the Profit made of Clover Grass, an Acre of Ground (after the First Year, if it be well Husbanded, and good kindly thick Clover) may be worth Fifteen, or Twenty Pounds per Annum; for the two next Years, and as it degene∣rates and becomes weaker, is less Worth, nor vvill it last above five Years. An Acre (if Fed) vvill keep four Cows all the Year at Pasturage, vvhich is a great Advantage. After the Strength of the Clover is gone, vvhich vvill be after four or five Years, the Ground vvill be very fit and good for Corn for two or three Years, and then it may be applyed for Clover again. It is not to let Cattle that are not used to this Food, to eat too liberal of it at first, for it being so sweet and luscious vvill Surfeit them; so that the best vvay is to Cut it, and give it them in Racks, as they do in Flanders. It is also good Food for Hogs, and will make them Fat.

An Acre of Clover may produce three or four Bushels of Seed, and about three Pecks is a good Days Work to Thresh.

SAIN-FOIN.

THe Soyls proper for this Grass are Barren, Dry, Stony Ground, hardly fit for Corn, or Grass; but all Clays, and other Cold, Wet Grounds, bear it not. There is such great Im∣provement made by this Seed, that Grounds not vvorth 2 s. an Acre, may be made worth 30 or 40 s.

The Seasons for Sowing it are in Autumn, from the beginning of August until the end of Sep∣tember; and in Spring, from the beginning of February until the end of March: And the Ear∣liear it is Sown in either Season, the better it is.

'Tis a large and light Seed, and there must be Sowed four Bushels to an Acre.

In Autumn the Tillage must be as if for Wheat fine Plowed, and also as vvell Harrowed; and then Sow it, and Harrow it again to cover the Seed. In Autumn it must be always Sowed alone vvithout Grain; but in Spring vvith Oats, or Barley, Sowing the Corn but thin. In Spring the Husbandry must be the same in all respects as for Summer Corn, and Sown as before directed. [ 10]

Nevv Broken Ground can't be Sown vvith it; but if the Ground be presently turned up after the Crop is off, and vvell Harrowed, it may be fit to Sow the Spring following.

The Ground sowen with this Seed, must be well fenced in, and secured from Cattle the first Year; the second Year it may be Mowen, and fed about Alhallontide, but when the Weather is wet, the Cattle should be taken out for fear of Spoiling the Roots until they be strong, which [ 20] will be the third Year; and if it be not of a sufficient growth to Mow the second Year, (as sometimes it will not,) then feed it, observing the former caution not to let the Cattle too much trample it, until the third Year. But always after (as long as it lasts which may be thirty Years) it may be either Mown or Fed at pleasure, without any Emendation of Dung. But it is best to be sometimes Mown, and sometimes Fed; when it is designed to be Mown, it must be laid in about Our Lady Day; and [ 30] it will be fit to Mow in the middle of May, when it begins to Flower: It is made in all respects as other Hay, and is very good for all Cattle (ex∣cept Sheep) as being too gross for them, breed∣ing store of Milk; and in the Winter Season 'tis good for Sheep.

TREFOIL, or NONSVCH.

THis Grass is of that Nature to grow upon [ 40] the poorest Land that is; and although quite worn out by frequent Tillage, yet will pro∣duce good and profitable Crops of Grass, and all Land naturally kind for Corn, and unkind for Grass, is kind for Trefoil.

The Pasture is very good for Cattle, especial∣ly for Cows, causing great Increase of Milk; and the Hay is as Nourishing and Fatning, provided it be Mowed and made in good Season, whilst it is full of Yellow Blossoms, and not over-dryed, [ 50] being soon made; and then it will not lose its colour, nor shrink in making as the Clover-grass doth, being much siner and greener. It is also exceeding good for Ews and Lambs, it being a sound feeding, and free from Rotteness; nor is it subject to Surfeit the Cattle as the Clover; and therefore it is very good for preventing this mis∣chief, to mix in the Sowing one Moity of this Seed with another of Clover, which doth thrive very well together, and affords both good Hay, [ 60] as well as Pasturage.

The Trefoil will endure much longer if it stand not for Seed, for that is Destructive to the Root, and the Sap is gone that should nourish it; be∣cause it must be cut late, and in the Heat of Sum∣mer, always provided the Ground be Sown with clean Seed, separated from the Husk wherein it grows, otherwise your Expectation will fail in e∣very point; for if it be not, it is impossible to cleanse it from the course and four Grass which mixes with it; and is so destructive to the Tre∣foil, that it will not last half so long; for as the course Grass encreaseth every Year, so the other decreaseth. The next Year after the Corn, it may be either Fed or Mown.

The best Season for Sowing this Seed, either with Oats or Barly, is from Mid-March to the end of April; and it must be Sown after the Corn, as before directed for the other Seeds; and afterwards finely Harrowed, and Rowled. About a dozen pound of Seed is sufficient for an Acre.

Whereas Land that is brought out of Heart by frequent Tillage, produceth Couch-Grass, Twitch and the like Weeds, that are great Enemies to the Corn, and impoverisheth the Land; this Trefoil doth enrich the Ground, and prepares it for Corn, destroying the Couch-Grass, and the like Weeds if it be kept Mowed, and Plowed again before the Trefoil be decayed, and other Grass grow up in the Room; and will likewise bear far better Corn than before: And when it is again worn out, will bear good Trefoil as before.

La LVCERNE.

FOr Sowing this Seed, observe the same Me∣thod in ordering the Ground as for the other Seeds. It must be sown about the Middle of A∣pril, and some Oats may be sown with it, but not so great a proportion as with other Seeds. The Land must be well dressed, and at least three times fallowed. It may be Mown twice every Year, and Fed all the Winter; The Hay if well made and ordered, is very good for all kind of Cattle; especially for Horses; and is good to fat store Cattle. It must be give with Caution at the first, as directed for the Clover, for fear of Surfeiting, so that it is best to be mixed with Straw, or Hay. An Acre will serve three Hor∣ses all the Year at Pasturage; and will soon raise them to Flesh, and make them Fat.

If it be Mown but once a Year, it will hold ten or twelve Years, but if twice a Year not so long.

There are several sorts of other Grasses, but these being the chief I shall omit the rest, only to say that Hop Clover, Trefoil, or Three Leaved Grass are both finer and sweeter than the great Clo∣ver-Grass, and will grow in any Ground. They may be Sown with Corn as before directed, or with∣out, or being Sprinkled in Meadows will much mend the Hay, both in Burthen and Good∣ness.

CHAP. III.

Of Arable Land, how to order it with the several Grains usually Sown. [ 10]

THe great and chiefest knowledge of the Husbandman, consists in the Understand∣ing the true Nature of the Ground, for every sort of Land almost requires a different sort of Husbandry; some Grounds yielding plenty of that which on another will not grow. The stiff and strong Ground receiveth the greatest Improvement from the Plough, and the light, warm and Mel∣low Land is most fit for Plantations and Garden∣ings; [ 20] not but that the Light and Mellow Ground is good for Corn, but the stiff is not so good for Plantations. Also Mossie, and such like Grounds are much improved by Ploughing.

All stiff, Clayey, moist and cold Grounds are generally thrice Ploughed for Wheat, and four times for Barley; for the several Ploughings are very Advantageous to the Ground in divers respects, as killing the Coutch, Twitch and the like Weeds that the Ground is subject unto; It also makes it light, Mellow and Finer for the Seed; and by giving it a Fallowing in the Sum∣mer, is as good as a sorry Dunging to it.

Land that hath layn long for Pasture, will be [ 30] subject to Moss and Weeds, so that Ploughing of such Land for two or three Crops, will be very Advantageous, not only in the Crops, but also to the Ground, especially if when it is laid down it is Soiled, or Sown with some of the a∣foresaid French Grasses.

There is much wast Ground in divers parts of this Kingdom, as Heaths, Moors, and Com∣mons subject to Broom, Rushes, Fern, Heath and the like, which if enclosed and good Hus∣bandry [ 40] used on them, would become good Grounds, Experience of which hath been made in many parts of England, on Ground that would scarce bear Grass, to produce good Crops of Corn; and the way to effect this is to Burn, or Denshire them as hereafter shall be Treated of; which is so exceed∣ing Advantageous, that two or three Years Crops have been worth the Inheritance of the Land; and after two or three Crops of Corn being lain down for Pasture, and Sown with some of the afore∣said [ 50] French Grasses, do become good Pasture Grounds, especially to what they were be∣fore.

The severally sorts of Grain usual Sown in England.

THe Husbandmans great care is to understand the Nature and Temper of his Land, and [ 60] what Grain is best agreeable thereunto, otherwise he can expect but indifferent Crops.

There is no Grain so useful, and Universal as Wheat, of which there are several sorts, as the Poland Wheat both White and Red, Great and Small, the Straw Wheat, Rivet Wheat, both White and Red; The Turkey Wheat, the Gray Wheat, the Flaxen Wheat, which in some places is supposed to be called Lammas Wheat, Chiltern-Ograve Wheat, Sarasins Wheat, with other Names which tis probably may be the same sorts: Of these sorts some prove good for cold and stiff Land; and others for that which is Hot and Dry. The Great Pland and the Ograve delights in stiff Ground, the Flaxen and Lammas on indifferent Lands; and the Sarasins on any. The Bearded Wheat is not Subject to Mildews. The best Sea∣son to Sow Wheat is about Michaelmas, and ra∣ther when the Weather is wet than dry.

RYE is a Grain used next to Wheat for Bread, and both mixt together in the Sowing (which is called Measeline) makes an excellent sort of fine moist and Palatable Bread. This Grain may be Sown something later than Wheat, if of it self, and will Grow on a lighter and poorer Land; It requireth a dry Seed time, it is a great bearer, and yields an advantageous Crop.

BARLEY is a profitable Grain, but the Ground must be good and brought to a fine Tilt; the best Season is about the latter end of March, or be∣ginning of April; and to be Sown when the Weather is dry, is very convenient.

OATS is a Grain much used in the Northern Parts of this Kingdom for their Bread, as also for their Malt, making good Beer. This Grain groweth almost on any Ground, nor is there that fineness of Tillage required as for Barley, for this may be Sown upon a Laye. The Season is in February and March. There are two sorts, the White or Polish Oat, which is a fine weighty Grain, and the Black Oat much Sown in Fenny Grounds, which sort of Corn is light, lank, long tayled, and not so good as the White.

PEASE are of great use and very profita∣ble; there are several sorts, as the Green, the Gray, or Hog-pease, the large Rouncifals, and the White which are of several sorts, as the Hots∣pur, Reading, Haisting, and Sandwich: And for the Sowing them, several Seasons are to be observed, that is, sooner or later as you would have your Crop to be Ripe; for the Hotspur about Christ∣mas is a good time, but if the Season prove frosty somwhat later. Pease do much Mellow Land, making it fit for a Crop of Winter Corn; and it must be Sown in a good Ground, your Stony, Rushy Land being unfit for it.

BEANS delight in a strong deep Land, and are of chief use for fatting Hogs, and being ground and mixt with Oats, are a good strength∣ening Food for Horses.

TARES, or Fetches are not of such great use, but Pigeons much delight in them. It is good Fodder for Horses if cut green. It requires indif∣ferent good deep Ground, the Season is about Fe∣bruary or March to Sow them.

LENTILLS, or TILLS are very good Fodder, they grow on any Ground, yet afford a great Encrease.

LVPINS are a pulse of a very great pro∣fit, growing on any Sandy, Gravelly or Rushy Ground, being sodden in Water are good Food for Swine and Oxen.

[illustration]

CERES

To the Worshipfull Thomas Fawkes of Farnley in the West riding of Yorkshire Esquire

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome.

good Crop, and curiously dryed it like unto Hops, to a perfect and just gage of Drought.

Of RAPE, or COLE-SEED.

THis Seed is very profitable to be Sowed upon Marsh, or Fenny-Land, or indeed upon any Moist Ground, that is of a fat and rich Soyl. The best Seed is the biggest, and it must be dry and of a clear Colour, like the best [ 10] Onion-Seed.

The Season for Sowing it is about Midsummer, and the Land must be well Plowed, laid Fine, and Even; about a Gallon will Sow an Acre, and for the Sowing it Even, it should be mixt with fine Dust, or Ashes, as before directed for the Clover.

The principal use of this Seed is for making Oyl, and a good Crop is about five Quarters, and commonly worth 4 s. a Bushel. When it looks [ 20] Brown it is time to Reap it, which must be done as Wheat, only it is not to be bound up, but must lye in handfuls upon the Ground until it be dry, which will be about a Fortnight, and when it is dry it must be gathered up on Sheets, or large Sail-Cloths, and so carried into the Barn to Thresh, for fear of shedding, to which it is much subject.

Directions for the Preparation of the Seed. [ 30]

BY Nature every Seed is found to differ from another, and to require a different Nourishment, insomuch that one sort of Seed will thrive where another sort will not; and by Experience it is found very advantagious for the Husbandman to change his Seed, especially for Land that is tyred out with frequent Tillage, into-Land newly broken up; and from dry, barren and hungry Ground, to that which is fat [ 40] and rich. The like is observed by Cattle that are taken out of barren, short, or sour Pasture, and put into that which is good and sweet, how they thrive over those that are not exchanged. The like is observed by Trees that are removed out of Barren bad Ground, into a good rich Mould.

Seeing then the Husbandmans great care is to Manure and Enrich his Ground. I shall with what brevity I can give an Account of the seve∣ral [ 50] ways, and Soyls, or Composts, for effecting the same.

CHAP. IV.

Of Manuring, Dunging, and Soyl∣ing of Lands. [ 60]

Soyls and Manures taken from the Earth.

LIMING of LAND is very good, much improving Barren Ground; about fifteen or twenty Quarters of Lime is sufficient for an Acre: Also a mixture of Lime and Dung is a very good Compost for Land. But where there is not the conveniency of a Kiln, to burn the Chalk into Lime, simple Chalk may be used, which by Frosts and Rains will be dissolved, and prove a good enrichment to the Ground, and will also be very good to mix with Dung: That which is called Chalk-Rubbish, being the Offals of the Lime, is the best for this pur∣pose.

MARL is very good for the enriching of Land, insomuch that it is commended by all Authors; there are several kinds of it, as some Stony, and some Soft, and some of divers Colours, as White, Yellow, Gray, Black, Blew, Russet, and Red.

It is of a Cold Nature, and very much saddens Land; the Goodness and Badness there∣of is not so much known by the Colour, as by the purity and uncompoundedness of it, being smooth like Lead-Oar, without any composition of Sand, or Gravel.

It is an excellent Improvement to High, Dry, Sandy, Gravelly, or Mixt Lands, though never so Barren, keeping them in good heart fifteen or twenty Years, and on some Grounds a longer time; but its strength and vertue will not ap∣pear the first Year, so much as in the succeeding Years, until it begins to wax out of heart.

Strong Clay Ground is not proper for Marl.

In the Spring lay the Marl on Light, Dry, Sandy, and Gravelly Grounds, as aforesaid; and in the beginning of Winter on Hard and Binding Grounds, and spread it abroad, that the Frost may moulder it in pieces. Yet some are of Opi∣nion, that the Winter Season is the best to lay it on, for any sort of Ground.

FVLLERS-EARTH is likewise a good Soyl, and is to be used after the matter of Marl.

CLAY is a very good Improvement to Dry, Light, and Sandy Ground, being spread thereon like Marl, or other Soyls.

By the same Rule that Clay is good for Light and Sandy Ground, SAND is good for Strong, Cold, and Stiff Land, a sufficient quantity there∣of being laid thereon; but as to the quantity, it is good to try the Nature of the Ground, and accordingly add a greater or lesser proportion. The best and fertilest Sand is that which is washed from the Hills, or other Sandy places, by the violence of Rain.

Sand is also very good to mix with other Compost, and for raising a good quantity thereof, in the Winter House your Sheep, and other Cattle, but not altogether, for fear of spoyling one another; and there fodder them, having Racks placed up and down in the said Houses. Let there be first spread on the Floor a good thick Coat of Sand, and short Mushy Straw, good for little else, upon which they will Piss and Dung; and when it is well covered therewith, then lay on another Coat of Sand and Straw; and this course using will make a considerable quantity of very good Soyl, for the enriching of any sort of Ground.

The DIRT, or Soyl of TOWNS, is a very good Improvement.

Soyls taken from the Sea-Shoar.

THe SANDS of the Sea-Coast, and Creeks, being of a Saltish nature, is very good for the Improving of Barren Land, and is much used in the Western parts of England. The like they do by Soyling their Land with the [ 10] Sea-Weeds, Sea-Owze, or Owzy-Mud, which turns to a very great Advantage.

In some places, when the glut of the Season of Fishing is, and that they are very cheap and plentiful, cast a good quantity upon the Land, which will cause an exceeding great Fertility, though never so Barren before. And without doubt there is nothing that proceeds from the Sea, or Rivers, whether Fish, Garbish of Fish, Shells, Sand, or Mud, but is very profitable to [ 20] the enrichment of the Ground, if Judiciously applyed.

Of Dungs, and other sorts of Soyls, and Manures.

SHEEPS-DVNG is the best and richest, so that the Folding them on the Land (which is but a thin sprinkling) causeth as great a Fertility as an indifferent Dunging.

HORSE-DVNG, which is the most com∣mon, [ 30] by reason of their keeping in Stables, and their Soyl preserved and cast up in Dung-hills to Rot with the Litter, is also a very good Manuring to Land, being of a hot Nature, and therefore excellent for Gardens, as also for Cold Grounds.

COW-DVNG is of a colder quality than that of Horse or Sheep, and therefore more fit for hot and sandy Grounds.

SWINES-DVNG is very good, and esteem∣ed better than Cow-Dung; and great quantities [ 40] may be made from about a Score of Hogs, if well ordered; which is to keep them up in a Yard of an indifferent largeness, well Paved, with a little Falling one way, to the end their Piss may fall to one part where the Dung should be Shovelled up to Rot. Let their Sheads, or Styes, be made along the side of the Pales, at the Upper part. The Hog-Troughs should be fixed in the Ground, with some part without the Yard, for the better conveniency of giving them [ 50] Meat therein without coming into the Yard; and for the making the greater quantity of Dung, cast into the Yard (besides their other food, as Roots, Offal, Wind-falls of Fruit in the time of the Year, Coleworts, and Cabbage-Leaves,) great store of Fern, or Mushy Straw, to make Dung of, which they will soon do by their Trampling, Lying, and Dunging upon it, inso∣much that there may be made yearly of good Soyl out of such a Hog-Yard, about forty or fifty [ 60] Loads.

The Dung of FOWLS, as Pigeons, Hens, Ducks, Geese, and Turkeys, is excellent, one Load being worth a Dozen of ordinary Dung, so that instead of laying it on the Land in the ordinary Husband-like way, it should be sown on the Ground.

WOOD-ASHES makes a good Dung, and enricheth Land; so doth those of Sea-Coal, Peat, Turf, Fern, Stubble, Straw, and Moss, in cold Marsh, or Meadow Grounds: And if Sea-Coal Ashes are mixt with Horse-Dung, they make an excellent Compost for divers uses.

SOAP-ASHES are esteemed a very good Soyl both for Arable and Pasture Ground; that is, the Stuff that comes from the Soap-Lees, when the Soap-Boylers have done with it. The best Season to lay it on the Ground is in the beginning of Winter, that the Rain may wash it into the Earth.

RAGS are excellent Soyl for Land, one Load going as far as a Dozen of ordinary Dung.

MALT-DVST is a very great enricher of Barren Ground. The way to use it is thus; After your Corn is Sown and Harrowed in, take the Malt-Dust and Sow it over the Ground, as you do Corn; about four Quarters is sufficient for an Acre, and as near as you can let the Dust be Sown in a Wet Season, that the Rain may wash it into the Earth. This is as good an enrichment to Ground (especially for one Crop) as an ordi∣nary Dunging. This Malt-Dust is to be bought of Malsters, or great Brewers, and for about 3 s. the Quarter.

HAIR, HORN-SHAVINGS, Shreds and Pieces of LEATHER, are found to en∣rich Ground very much, being thinly strewed thereon.

SOOT is very good, especially that which is made of Wood; It is most beneficial to Trees, or Plants, that either grow in the Shade, or in Cold and Moist Grounds.

SALT, if used with moderation, is said to be a good Improver of Barren Ground, and doubt∣less it is true; for by Experience it is found, that Corn being steeped for some time in Brine, doth not only cause Fertility, but also prevents Soot in the Ears, and some say Bliting also; but that I shall not aver.

The ways and means of Improvement of Grounds by Dunging and Soyling, as aforesaid, is very good and effectual; but in many places very chargeable and troublesom, by reason that it can't be obtained but at dear Rates by Carriage, or otherwise; so that the profit accruing thereby will not answer the Expence and Trouble. In this case your Art must be used to the Seed de∣signed to be Sown on such Land, and for that, there are several ways to be used, some of which are as followeth.

Let your Corn be steept in Dung-water for some time, wherein put some Salt-Peter; then lay it to dry on some Floor, and so Sow it. It is also good to steep the Corn in new Ale, or Wort; but more effectual to steep it in Nitre, or Sal-Terrae, which is so highly extolled by Glanber, being that fixed Salt extracted out of any Ashes either of Vegetables, Animals, or Minerals, that are throughly calcined.

SHEEPS, or PIGEONS-DVNG, dis∣solved in Water, with Salt cast therein, is very good to steep Corn in: But above all take ten, or twenty Gallons of Train-Oyl, or such a quan∣tity as you shall have occasion for; put it into a

large Vessel, and cast therein your Corn, that is, such a quantity as the Oyl will well cover, and there let it lye and steep until it be supple, and as it were glutted therewith; then take it out, drain it, and spread it on a Floor, and with a Sieve sprinkle it over with slack't Lime; then with your Corn-shovel let it be turned, that the Lime may encrust the Corns, or Grains, all over, and so Sow it. This way is recommended for an excellent Improvement, exceeding all the [ 10] others; for the Oyl is fatning, and the Lime doth preseve it from Vermin, as also from Smut.

There is another compound Liquor, which is said to surpass the former; that is, Take a quan∣tity of unslack't Lime, put thereto as much Water as will make it swim about four Inches above the Water, and unto the Water that is poured off mix one tenth part of Aquavitae, and in that Liquor steep your Corn about twenty four Hours; then take it forth and dry it; which done, put it [ 20] in the said Water again, and let it steep twenty four Hours more; then take it forth and dry it; and ob∣serve the like way a third time; then Sow it, but so thin, that every Corn, or Grain, may be about nine Inches apart, if possible; and 'tis said, that one Grain will produce thirty or forty Ears, very large, with a large and tall Stalk; but this I leave to Trial, not averring it for Truth.

Of BVRNING of LAND. [ 30]

THe Burning of Land, or indeed any other operation on it by Fire, is a very great Improvement to Barren and Poor Ground, be it wet, or dry; and this is the only Improvement the Americans use; for the Burning of any com∣bustible thing on the Land doth much heat the Ground, and wastes that Acid sterile Juyce that hinders its Fertility.

This Art of Burning of Land, commonly cal∣len [ 40] Denshiring, is not to be practiced on Ground of a good, rich, and loose Soyl, that produceth flourishing Crops; but only upon Barren, Sour, Hide-bound, and Rushy Ground be it either dry, or wet; hot, or cold.

The usual way to effect the Burning of Land is as followeth, you must be provided with a Breast-Plough to pare off the Turf, which must be turned over as it is cut, that it may dry the better; and if it prove a Wet Season, the Turf [ 50] must be turned again, and set up hollow, the better to dry; and being throughly dryed, they must be gathered up and put in small Heaps, of about two Wheel-barrows full in an Heap. If the Turf be full of sibrous Roots, or hath a good Sword of Grass upon it, it will burn without any other Addition of Fewel; if not, the Heaps must be raised on a small Bundle of Goss, Fern, or Straw to set it on fire; and being consumed to Ashes in a still time (when the Wind will not [ 60] hinder the equal scattering) let them be strewed on the Land. Then on those places where the Hillocks were, the Farth must be pared away, to abate its over Fertility, caused by the Fire made thereon.

And Note, That the Land must be but shallow, or half Plowed, and not above half Seeded, and also Sowed late in the Season, to prevent the over-rankness of the Corn; but for the second Crop observe the usual Husbandry as to your other Grounds.

CHAP. V.

Of Herbs, Roots, Fruits, Plants, &c. Planted and Propagated in the Kitchin-Garden; with In∣structions how to Sow, Raise, and Order them according to the several Seasons, as well those for Food, as others for Advantage.

Of HOPS.

HOPS are now grown a National Commodity, although formerly Petitioned in Parlia∣ment by the Londoners, to be Prohibited the Im∣portation or Growth in this Kingdom, as a Nu∣sance, or an Offensive Commodity, for that it would spoil their Drink, and endanger the Peo∣ples Healths, it being an unhealthful Herb, oc∣casioning the Stone; for before Hops were used in Drink, that Disease was not known in this Kingdom: However it advanceth Land to such an Improvement, that sometimes an Acre is worth Fifty, or Sixty Pounds; but it is an uncertain Crop, for overmuch Drought, or Wet, spoils it; the like doth Mill-dews, which makes the Price so uncertain.

The Hop delights in the richest Land, or deepest Mould, and Light (if mixed with Sand) is the better; also black Garden Mould is very good; but a Barren Moorish Soyl is altogether unfit for it.

If it lyes near the Water, and yet Dry, it is the better. It also ought to lye warm, and free from the North and East Winds, as being shel∣tred by Hills, or Trees.

If the Land that you design for a Hop-Garden be cold, stiff, four, or barren, it will be conve∣nient to burn it about the latter end of Summer, and to make the Ground mellow, light and free from Weeds by sowing it with Turnips, Hemp, or Beans; And fail not to Till it in the begining of Winter with the Plough or Spade, be it in what condition soever.

For the planting the Ground, the best way is to make the Hill where the Plants are to be set in Squares, by which means the Ground will be better to plough, and at every place where there is to be a Hill thrust down a small Stick for your directions, the better to make the Hill; and if the Ground be poor and stiff, make the Holes good by putting therein good Mould or rotten Dung, which will sufficiently repay the charge and trou∣ble.

As to the distances of the Hills, if the Ground be deep, moist, and of a rich Mould, about Eight Foot asunder is convenient; but if of a dry and burning quality, then not above Six: And let the Ground be what it will, so order it that there may be room to come between, and that they may receive the influence of the Sun; for in moist Years the Hops grow large, so that the wider the Hill the better; and in hot and dry Years they grow thin, so that the nearer they are the [ 10] more Hops they bear. Let the Hills be made of a middle size, for if they are big, they re∣quire the greater quantity of Poles, and cannot be so conveniently drest.

The Season for planting your Hops is about the end of March or beginning of April, but expe∣rienced Planters affirm that the best time is in Octo∣ber, for then the Hops will settle againt the Spring.

Let the Sets be the largest you can get, with [ 20] Three or Four Bads; and before you take the Sets out of the Ground, let the Holes be ready to receive them, and made as deep as the Plant or Set, and about a Foot over, and at every corner of the Hole put a Set, and raise the Earth Two or Three Inches above it; but if you Plant so late that the Green Sprigs are shot forth, then cover them not quite for fear of killing them.

If your Hops are Old or Worn out of Heart, through ill Husbandry, then about the begining [ 30] of Winter dig them, and take away as much of the Old Barren Ground, as you conveniently can, and in the Room thereof (after they are dressed) put good rich Mould, or Rotten Dung, which will exceedingly Nourish and revive the Roots; and the Winter digging or tilling will de∣stroy the Weeds and Couch Grass: But if the Hops be strong and in good Heart, then dress them not until March, or the beginning of April, and in dressing the Hops, these Rules are to be observed, [ 40] viz. Pull down your Hills, and undermine them round about to come to the principal Roots, and shake off the Earth from the Younger Roots, and cut them away, preserving well the old Sets, and in the First Years cutting uncover no more than the Tops of the Old Sets, and cut not the Roots before March, although you pull down the Hills sooner. The Roots, that grow downwards are not to be cut, but only such that grow outwards at the sides of the Sets. The Old Roots are red, [ 50] those of the last Years white.

For the Poling Hops, if the Hills are wide, the more Poles are required, and if the Ground is hot, dry, and hungry, the Poles, may stand nea∣rer together than in Rich and Mellow Ground; where they must be also larger, and longer, other∣wise the best profit will be lost; whereas on the contrary if the Land is Poor the Poles must be small, for if over-poled the Hop will run it self out of Heart, especially the First Year: And be∣gin [ 60] not to Pole until your Hops appear above Ground, for then you may discern where the bigest Poles are required; and you may continue Polling until the Plants are about a Yard in height. Poles of Alder are esteemed the best, as being Streight and tapering, and of a rough Rind, so that the Hop, will not so easily slip down; But for lasting the Ash is to be preferred before the Alder. Be sure to fix the Poles deep in the Earth that the Wind force them not out, and let them lean outwards from one another to prevent Hous∣ling as they call it, for thereby they will have the greater benefit of the Sun, and by conse∣quence bear more and better Hops; and you should be always provided with spare Poles if in case any should break, for if the Hops lie on the Earth they will soon Perish.

Your Hops being got Two or Three Foot a∣bove Ground, it is time to fix them to the Poles, by winding them about according to the Course, of the Sun, and by fastning them thereto; but in doing this be sure not to break the young and tender Shoots.

In April and May your care is required to be guiding the Shoots to the Poles as you would have them, which may be done with forked Sticks where they are out of your reach.

About Midsummer the Hops begin to leave shoot∣ing or runing at length and then begin to Branch; at which time those that are not at the Tops of Poles, should be nipt off at the Top, to cause them to Branch the better.

In May after Rain, you should pare off the Sur∣face of the Earth, with a Spade, Hoe, or Breast Plough, and with the parings raise up the Hills, burying all Superfluous Shoots of the Hops, as also the Weeds.

If it prove a dry Summer, it is requisite to Water the Hops, making a Hole in each Hill, the better to receive the Water, and then raise up the Hills to keep the Roots cool; once or twice watering is sufficient in the dryest Sum∣mer.

About the End of July Hops blow, about the begining of August they Bell, and are ripe in the latter End of August, or begining of September. The Signs of their being ripe are the changing their Colour to brounish, and their fragrant smell.

The best way for gathering Hops is in a Frame, or Bin, made for that purpose of Canvass, and short Poles to remove from place to place, and the Pickers to stand on each side to gather the Hops, and so convey them to drying; but cut no more Stakes, nor draw no more than can be dispatched in an hour or two, for fear of Rain; and let them not be over Ripe before you gather them, for fear of shedding the Seed, which is the strength of the Hop: and gather them as free from Leaves and Stalks as possible.

About Four Pound of Hops throughly ripe will make One Pound when dryed; but if gathe∣red before they are so Ripe, then there will be a∣bout Five Pound to make one. Great care is re∣quired in the well drying the Hops, for a little quantity slack dryed will spoil divers Pounds.

These are several ways, as in Kilns made for that purpose, first invented in Holland; but that which seemeth easier, and better, is to dry them on an ordinary Malt-Kiln on a Hair-cloth, laying them about Five or Six Inches thick, and when they are almost dry, to turn them up side down with a Scoop made for that purpose, and so let them lye until they are throughly dryed, and

then remove them in the Hair-Cloth to the Heap where they are to lye till picked. In stead of the Hair-Cloth some use a Tin-Floor, or Bed, to lay over the Kiln, to put the Hops in, which is prefer∣red far before any of he the former ways, as being more sure, less expensive, and more expeditious.

Before you Bag up the Hops, after they come from the Kiln, let them ly Three or Four Weeks to cool and toughen, otherwise they will be brittle, and break to Powder. The better the [ 10] Bags are trod the better will the Hops keep.

Clear your Hop-Poles from the Hawm, and lay them up in some Barn, or dry Shed, for use the next Year, for Poles are chargable, especially in many parts of England.

Of SAFFRON.

THis is the richest Commodity that this King∣dom produceth, quantity for quantity; [ 20] and is very sovereign for divers Diseases, and much used for several occasions. The best Sea∣son to plant, or Set it, is about Midsummer, and the Land must be brought into a very good and fine tilt, and of a rich Soyl; for the better the Land is the better Crop it will produce. For the Plant∣ing the Sets you must make use of a very broad H••e, and with that draw the Land into Ranges open like Furrows (as if for Pease) and about Two or Three Inches deep, in which the Sets are [ 30] to be planted about Three Inches asunder. Let the Ranges be well covered over with Earth and about Four Inches asunder, very streight, to the End the Ground may be the better Hoed to clear the Weeds. The Winter following it grows green like Chives, or small Leeks, and in the begining of the Sumer it quite dieth as to appearance, but it must be clean H••ed, and then will come up the Flower without the Leaf which in September appears like the Blue Crocus, in the midst of which [ 40] comes up Two, or Three Chives of a deep yel¦low, which is the Saffron, which is to be gathered from the Flower, and very early in the Morning otherwise it will return back into the Earth until the next Morning. The Season lasts about a Month for the gathering it, so that you must have many Hands to pick it.

The best way to dry it is to make use of a Kiln made of Clay and Sticks in the fashion of a Bee-Hive, but not so big, and a little Fire made [ 50] of Char-Coal, being carefully tended, will serve to dry it, for it must not be too dry.

An Acre may produce Fourteen, or Fifteen, Pound of good Saffron; but Eight or Ten Pound is reckoned an indifferent good Crop.

When the Crop is off, about Midsummer is the time to take up the Sets, or Plants, and to set them again as before directed, which course must be ob∣served every Year, for a Crop will hold good but one Year. [ 60]

The Country about Saffron-Walden in Essex is noted for this Commodity.

Of LIQVORICE.

THe best Land for Liquorice is the richest, warmest, dryest, and of a very deep Soyl: Before the Sets are Planted, the Ground must be dug, or rather Trenched about three Spades depth, and laid as light and hollow as possible: And if the Ground be not Naturally very rich, it must be made so by Manuring, for which Horse-Dung is esteemed the best, as being hot∣test.

Your Land being well prepared, and laid ou•• into four Foot Beds; you must get the best and largest Sets you can, which are those called Crown-Sets, or Heads taken from the top of the Root, or a little shived down; and Plant the Sets in Beds at about a Foot distance from each other, with a Dibber, or such like Tool, to make Holes in the Ground, and let the Earth be well closed. If it prove a very dry Season when they are Planted, which is in the Months of February, and March, then let them be Water∣ed for two or three Days at the first, or so long until you find they have recovered their wither∣edness.

This Crop comes not to perfection until the third Year to take up, but the first Year you may Sow the Ground with Onions, Lettuce, or any Sallet Herbs that take not deep Root down∣wards; and afterwards keep the Beds and Alleys well Hoed, and clear from Weeds.

In November and December is the best Season to take up the Liquorice; and observe that in the taking them up there will run from every Master Root a Runner, which runs all along the upper part of the Ground, which hath little Sprouts and Roots, which will yield excellent Sets, if they be cut three or four of them in every Set, and about four or five Inches long, which also Plant, being as good as the Crown-Set; and if it be a moist Season, the Branches may be Planted betwixt the Set to thicken them.

In Planting the Liquorice, be sure to have your Ground ready prepared before you take the Sets out of the Ground, for they will soon wither and be spoiled, and make all the possible hast you can in Planting them.

Of TOBACCO.

THis is a very Advantageous Plant, and of great esteem in this Age; it would grow very well in this Kingdom were it allowed, but by reason of its Prohibition, I shall not proceed to give Directions for the Planting, Dressing, Ordering and Curing it.

GARDEN-BEANS and PEASE.

BBEANS are of several sorts, and known by divers Names, as the Windsor and the Sand∣wich, which are the chief, and the largest are esteemed the best; yet many are of Opinion that the middle sized Beans (provided they are sound) are the best, that is, they go farthest, there being the greater Number to fill the Bush∣el.

Beans delight in a rich, stiff and deep Mould; good Husbandry ought to be used in digging the Ground well; the Season to set them is from Christmas to Candlemas, and also earlier or later,

according to the Season of the Year; but if too early, then great Frosts coming after they are Spired, will kill them; and if too late, they must be steeped in Brine, or such Water, as before prescribed for Steeping Corn in; and observe to set them very near when the Moon is in her Wane.

It is the common and usual way to Set them here and there promiscuously in Holes made with a Dibber; this way I do not approve of (as by Experience finding it not the best) but make Ran∣ges [ 10] with a Hoe about three Inches deep, very streight, and let the Ranges run from South to North, for the greater benefit of the Sun, and this way they bear far more, the Sun and Air having a freer passage between them; also it is more commodious to go between them to Weed, Top, and gather them. You may Sow them thicker or thinner according to the goodness of the Ground, and your own Discretion; when they are sown, with your Hoe raise up the [ 20] Earth about them. Let the Ranges be about two Foot and a half, or three Foot asunder; and that you may not lose Ground, Carots may be Sown betwixt the Ranges, which will prove a good second Crop. In gathering Green Beans it is not good to pull them from the Stalks as is usual, for that prevents the thriving of the younger Cods not ripe, but cut them off with a Knife; and if you cut off the Stalks close to the Ground when the Beans are gathered, 'tis probable you [ 30] may have a Second Crop before Winter.

PEASE are of Sundry sorts, viz. Hotspurs, of which there are the Barns Hotspur, the short Cod Hotspur, and the long Cod Hotspur; they are usually Sown in November and December, and sometimes in January, they will be very early ripe provided the Ground is rich and warm; The Sandwich white Pease; The White, Grey, Blew, Green and Maple Reuncival; the large and small White Sugar Pease; the Grey Sugar Pease; the [ 40] White Rose and the Grey Rose Pease; the Egg, the Wing, and the Sickle Pease; the Sugar Pease which is to be eaten in their Cods like unto French-Beans, and by reason of their tenderness are to be Sown late.

Your Ground must be well ordered, if you ex∣pect a good Crop, especially if it be Ploughed; and Sow them in Ranges made with a Drill Plough, or for want thereof with a Hoe indifferent deep, earthing them well over; and when they are come [ 50] up, earth up the Roots, which is a great preser∣vative to them, especially in a dry time, and keep them well Hoed and free from Weeds. Those that have but small quantities to set, and have the Conveniency of Sticks, may use them for the Pease to run upon, which doth occasion a far greater encrease.

FRENCH-BEANS.

FRench-Beans, or Kidney-Beans are of three [ 60] sorts, viz. White, Speckled, and those called the Canterbury Kidney Bean; the White is esteemed the best. They are very tender at their first coming up, so that they must be Sown in warm Weather: April being a good Season. To cause them to come up the sooner, steep them in Water as aforesaid. It is a very great bearer, and would be very profitable to Sow them for a ripe Crop for Poultrey; but the usual use of them is for the Kitchin, being esteemed a very good Dish; and therein made use of several ways.

ARTICHOAKS.

THis is an excellent Plant, and very strength∣ning; the Ground fit for them must be deep, and of a very rich Soyl, and Trenched up with Dung in the Winter, to make it the bet∣ter, which will produce the larger Choaks.

The Slips that grow by the sides of the Old Stubs serve for Plants, which are to be taken from them, and Planted in April, the Ground being well Dug; and they must be kept well watered until they have taken Root; and if they be strong, they will bear Heads the Autumn following. They are to be Planted four or five Foot distance one from another, and kept well Weeded; and if the Summer prove dry, they must be Watered. This is a lasting Crop for divers Years, but your care must be to look after them in the Winter, to preserve them from the pinching cold Frosts, by cut∣ting the Stalks within about a Foot of the Ground; and raise up the Earth about them like unto Mole∣hills, within two or three Inches of the top, and that covered over with long Dung; but do not Earth them up too soon, for fear of Rotting them: When the Winter is spent, uncover them, and lay them open by little and little, lest the Air pinch them as being tender; then Trim them up very well, taking away most of their small Slips, not leaving above three of the strongest to each Foot for Bearers, and dig about the Roots as deep as conveniently you can, adding thereto good rotten Dung.

If you would have Choaks in Autumn, cut the Stems of those that bore in the Spring, to hin∣der them from a second Crop, and in Autumn these lusty Stocks will bear very good Choaks; but you must take away the Slips that draw the Substance from the Plants, and dig about them, dressing and watering them as occasion re∣quires.

JERVSALEM-ARTICHOAKS.

THese are much of the Nature of Potatoes. but are neither so toothsom, nor so whol∣som, nor are they in any request; they are planted of the Roots, or come of the Seed.

COLLYFLOWERS.

THis Plant is raised from Seed, which is sown in August, and carefully preserved in the Winter, being a tender Plant; or you may sow them in the Spring in a Hot Bed, and remove them when they have indifferent large Leaves, and set them in good rich Ground, well prepa∣red for that purpose; but the best way is to dig small Holes about a Foot Square, and fill them with good rotten Dung mixt with rich Mould, and therein Plant the Collyflowers very deep, almost covering the Leaves, and be careful to water

them well, especially in a dry Season, otherwise they will not Flower. Let the Holes be about three Foot apart, and set in Ranges, to the end the Ground may be the better Hoed, and kept from Weeds.

CABAGES.

THere are divers sorts of Cabages, those most common are the English, the Dutch, the Rus∣sia, [ 10] and the Red Cabage, of which the English and Dutch (which are generally very large and firm) are the best.

The Ground ought to be very good, rich, and of a deep Mould: and the manner of setting them is in Holes, as before directed for Colly∣flowers; They require Watering, especially at the first setting, until they draw Root: It is most convenient to set them in Ranges, at about four Foot asunder, if of a large kind, otherwise three [ 20] Foot is enough.

The Slugs are very injurious to them, so that if they are not carefully looked after until they are grown pretty large, they will destroy them; therefore every Morning very Early, and every Evening about Sunset they should be pick'd off the Leaves, for at other times in the Heat of the Day they are not to be seen; Now to ease your self of this Trouble get a parcel of Ducks, and they will do that business, for the Slugs are good Food [ 30] for them.

The Cabage Seed is to be Sown between Mid∣summer and Michaelmas, that it may gain Strength to defend it self against the pinching Cold, and in some Years the sharp Frosts kill them. The Seed is also to be Sown in a Hot Bed in the Spring, and then in April, or beginning of May they may be Transplanted into your Grounds, as before directed.

Many ordinary Grounds will produce Cole∣worts, [ 40] and indeed if the Cabage Plants are not good, or if they be set too thick, they will turn to Coleworts.

These, as also the Ossal Leaves of Cabages, are very good Food for Cows and Swine, so that were they Planted for no other use, it were beneficial enough. They are also excellent for Rabets, ei∣ther Wild or Tame.

If you would preserve any Cabage Seed, let it be of the very best; and let them be placed very low in the Ground during the Winter Season, to [ 50] preserve them from Frosts and Cold Winds, co∣vering them with Earthen Pots, and warm Soil over the Pots, and at Spring Plant them forth.

SAVOYS.

THese are of two sorts, Dutch and English; they are in Season earlier than Cabages, and are more sweet: They are raised, and Plan∣ted [ 60] much after the same manner as Cabages, but not so much Curiosity is required about them.

POTATOES.

THis is a Root in great Request in our Ame∣rican Plantations, as also in Ireland, no doubt but it will grow well in England, were it Planted here. They require good Garden Mould, and are easily encreased, for the Roots, if cut in small pieces, will grow as well as the whole Roots.

CAROTS.

OF this Root there are several sorts, viz. the Red Carot, the Swelling Orange Carot, which is the forwardest, and the Yellow Ca∣rot.

The Ground most agreeable for this Root is a light, warm and sandy Soyl, and withal rich in Heart. The usual way was to dig the Ground for them, which for small quantities for Gardens is the best; but of late Years the Farmer easeth himself of that great charge, by Ploughing it deep, which serveth as well; but it must be well har∣rowed and laid fine, otherwise it will be trou∣blesom to Hoe, which is the chief care and charge required about it, for it must be three times Hoed, which will cost 30 s. an Acre to be well done; but those that Sow but a little for their own use, their Gardiner or other Servants may do it, being no difficult thing to learn; the chief care being to set them apart, for if two or more grow together, they will be small and come to nothing, and the cutting the Tops of them with the small Hoe kills the Roots.

There are two Seasons for Sowing Carots, one is about February, for forward Carots, and those will be ripe about the beginning of July; and the other Season is in July and August for Winter Carots, and those will be ripe and fit to draw in October.

These Roots are of great use, not only for the Table, but also for Swine, Geese, Poultrey, and Rabets. The best way to keep them all the Winter, is to lay them in dry Sand; and if you would reserve any for Seed, let them be the fi∣nest.

PARSNIPS.

THis Root delights in a deep, rich and Mel∣low Ground, which must be well dug, at the least a full Spit deep, and laid loose, the bet∣ter to take Root. The Season to Sow them is in the Spring, to wit about April; And great care must be taken in the Hoeing them, as is for the Carots.

The Swelling Parsnip is by some preferred be∣fore the other. About Christmas is the time to draw them, and the Season holds all, or the greatest part of Lent. The fairest may be pre∣served for Seed.

This Root is of that Nourishment, that it will Fat Hogs with as firm a Flesh as with Pease; and those that have Experienced it say, that the Flesh is sweeter, and more delicate. Carots will also Fat them, but their Fat is loose, washy, and

waists in the Boyling. Parsnips are also very good, being cut into small pieces and boyled for fatting Poultrey.

TVRNIPS.

TVrnips are of several sorts, viz. the long, the round and the yellow, of which sorts the long are esteemed the best.

This Root is more usually Sown in the Field [ 10] than in a Garden, being generally a second Crop, with no more Husbandry than only giving the Ground, one stiring or Plowing after the Crop is taken off, and so Sowing the Seed, and Harrow∣ing it well in. They must be twice Hoed to se∣ver them, but that great exactness is not required as for Carots.

Besides the benefit of this Root for the Table, it is excellent good for Cows and Sheep, especial∣ly in hard Frosty Weather; And this Crop doth [ 20] very much Mellow the Ground, and fit it for another Crop, being as good as a small Dunging; It is best to be Sown after a Crop of Pease, or Beans.

If you would raise good Seed whereby to have fair and large Roots, either of Carots, Par∣snips, or Turnips, gather the highest Branches when the Seed is full ripe, which Sow in March, or April; and at drawing time choose the fairest Roots, cut off their Tops somwhat low, and set [ 30] them again, and let them stand for Seed the next Year; which Seed take from the highest Top Branches, and Sow them in Season, and they will answer your Expectation.

SKIRRETS.

THis is a very sweet Root; it is raised of the Slips, and planted in the Spring Season in Ranges about five or six Inches asunder, and at [ 40] Winter when you raise the Roots, you may lay the Tops in Earth until the Spring, for your fur∣ther encrease. They delight in a very Fat and light Mould. If you would have the Roots of these Plants to be large, often tread down the Tops to hinder the Sap from runing up.

ASPARGVS.

THis is to be raised from the Seed in a rich [ 50] and fat Soil, and at two Years growth may be Transplanted into Beds; which must be rich, and well prepared with rotten Dung, about two Foot deep at the bottom; and also very good rotten Dung must be mixt with the Mould. Then set the Asparagus Plants at about two Foot distance, and three or four Rows in each Bed, which in time will extend themselves throughout all the Bed.

After three Years standing they will be fit to [ 60] cut, but if you cut them sooner, they will be small. But your Ground may not be lost to you all this time; for the first Year you may Sow Onions, and may expect a good Crop.

At the beginning of Winter when the Stalks are cut away, pare up the Alleys, and cover the Beds with Horse-Dung about three Inches thick, which will preserve them from the Cold pinching Frosts, which otherwise will anoy them; and about Mid March uncover the Beds, and let the Dung lye in the Alleys to rot for good Mould against the next Season, and cast over the said Beds rich Mould, about Two or Three In∣ches thick, which will exceedingly nourish them and bring them forward and early.

Cut the Asparagus very low within the Earth and it will grow up the better; but be careful, of cutting those that are just peeping up, for that will hinder their growth.

If you take up the Roots of old decayed As∣paragus about the begining of January, and Plant them in a Hot Bed, keeping it warm and shelter∣ing it from the Frosts, you may have Asparagus a∣bout Candle-mas.

MELLONS.

MEllons are very troublesom and costly to raise; about the Middle of February make your Hot-Beds in some enclosed place that is sheltred warm from the Wind by a Pail or Fence of Reeds, or Straw, which Hot-Bed must be made of good new Horse-Dung Five or Six Foot high and about Four Foot broad, and very hard trod or beat down; then sift some pure Mould of last years rotten Dung without any mixture of Earth, about Four or Five Inches thick, and put in the Seeds with your Fingers at Two or Three In∣ches distance, and an Inch and an half deep; then cover them over with Mellon Glasses, the better to draw up the heat, and bring up the Mellons; and this way is better than the covering the Bed with Straw, or Mats, raised or supported up by Arched Sticks, which is the common way to those that cannot, or will not be at the charge of Glasses.

When the Plants begin to peep up, cover them thinly over with Fine Warm Mould; and when they are shot above Ground, cover up the Stalks close to the Leaves, and in the heat of the Day give them a little Airing, taking off the Glasses, but casting a little Straw over them for fear the Sun proves too hot for them, and this do about Ten a Clock to a Eleven, and open them again a∣bout Two till Four; and as the Plants rise, raise up the Earth to the Roots to succour them, and when you find the Bed begin to decay, remove the Plants into another Hot-Bed, otherwise they will decay for want of Heat; but coming into a fresh Bed will mount up apace; If the Bed grows dry, Water them once in Twelve Hours with Water made Luke warm: When the Plants are grown pretty big remove them into another new Bed, and Plant them▪ about Four Inches asunder; Then Plant them where they shall stand all the Year: dig a large Trench about Four Foot deep, and Three Foot over, and place therein some Dung about Three Foot deep, that will heat them; then make a square Hole about Four Foot deep and half a Yard square, and fill it about half full with very rich Mould; Then take up the Mellon-Plants from your last Bed very carefully, and set Three Plants in one Hole Triangular in the warm Mould, so deep, that the Leaves may be level

with the Top of the Earth; then set the Glasses upon them, and cover them very warm, and Water them with Dung-Water Blood-warm for Three or Four Days after the planting, and be sure to give them good attendance in the time of their ripening, for the excellency is to take them in their prime, and they will soon be over ripe: Lay the young Mellons upon ride Tiles to to keep them from the Ground, and to cause the reflextion of the Sun the better. [ 10]

CVCVMBERS.

CVcumbers are raised in Hot-Beds, and from thence transplanted as Mellons; but the more usual way is to make a Trench of a suffici∣ent bigness for the quantity of Cucumbers you design to sow, and fill it with new Horse-Dung and make square Holes, as before directed for the Mellons, which fill with rich Mould, and set [ 20] the Seeds about Two Inches deep in it, and put about Twelve in a Hole dispersed up and down; when they come up cover them with Straw, Cabage∣leaves, or Mats, to shelter them from the Wind and Weather, until they are pretty Big, and then they will be out of danger; but forget not to water them, especially in a dry Season. About the latter End of March, or beginning of April is a good time to set the Seeds; and if you would have them earlier you must make use of Hot-Beds [ 30] and Glasses.

Cucumbers are of Three Sorts, viz. long, short, and prickly Cucumbers.

POMPIONS.

THese Roots are set in good Mould after the manner of Cucumbers, and must be well watered at their first appearing: When you per∣ceive a Pompion to be kerned, and Grown pretty [ 40] big, and that the Runner shoots forwards and pro∣duceth another about a Yard beyond it, lay the Runner about half a Foot in the Ground and it will shoot out Roots and nourish the other Pompion, for that next the Root intercepts all the Sap from tie other, so that in Two or Three Days it will pin•• away; and observing this Rule you may have Nine or Ten upon a Root, otherwise not a∣bove Two or Three.

MEKINGS and GOVRDS are not much [ 50] unlike unto Pompions and require the same order∣ing.

Of Onions, Leeks, Garlick, Shalots, with Sal∣lating and Potherbs.

ONIONS are of several Sorts, viz. Strasburgh Onions, the Red Spanish, and the White Spanish, the French that comes from S•••• Omers, and the English Onion.

They delight in a fine, fat and warm Mould; they are sown in March, or beginning of April; [ 60] If they are not sown with an even Hand they will be in some places too thick, and in others too thin; then where they are too thick let them be drawn up and planted in the thin places: When they are grown to some reasonable bigness bend down the Blades, which will make the Heads the larger. They must be kept well weeded, otherwise they will not come to good perfect∣ion.

In August they are usually ripe, then gather them up, and lay them in the Sun to dry on a Blanket; then make them up in Ropes and hang them up, or lay them on some boarded Floor for your use.

The Strasburgh is reckoned the best.

LEEKS.

LEeks are of the nature of Onions, and are so sown, but when they are grown big, if they were transplanted and set deep in the Earth they would have the more white stalk for use, but this is too great a trouble for any quanti∣ty.

The fairest and best Leeks, as also Onions, are to be kept and planted for Seed, and by reason of weightyness of their Heads they are to be prop∣ped up with Sticks; when the Seed is ripe, cut off the Heads, and lay them to dry, then rub out the Seed.

GARLICK and SHALOTS.

GArlick is set in rich Ground; one Head be∣ing severed into Cloves will set a small Bed. Shalot is to be set in rich Ground, but this and Garlick may be raised from Seed, as the Onions, and so ordered

Seeds necessary for the Kitchin.

THere are divers Seeds necessary for the Kit∣chin, the sowing and propagating of which, being so easy, I shall not trouble the Reader with a Discourse of each particular Part, only say that they are to be sown for the generality in the Spring, and the Ground must be of a rich and Mellow Mould, and well husbanded by diging and laying into Borders.

As near as you can, let not the Seed be above a year old; and to trye if it be good, put some thereof into a Saweer of fair Water set over a Chafindish of Coals, and if they be good they will sprout forth in a short time, else not. Also new Seed is of a brighter Colour than that which is old.

For sowing the Seeds being so small, the best way is to mix them with sine Ashes, and that the Ground may lie the better, let it be finely raked, and then sow the Seeds; and having good fine Mould, sift it through a Sieve on the Beds, about half an Inch thick, which is far better than to sow them, and so rake the Ground afterwards.

These Seeds I shall divide into four several Heads, viz. Sallad Seeds, Pot-herb Seeds, sweet-herb Seeds, and Phisical Seeds.

SALLAT SEEDS are Radishes, which are of Four sorts, viz. London, Sandwich, Black spanish, and White spanish Radish. LETTVCE, viz. the Curld, the Red, the Rose, the Savoy, the Roman, the Lombar, and the Cabage. SPINAGE the round and the prickly. The White, the Red and the Roman Beet, Sampier, Berry-bearing Orach, Italian Selleree, Foenochio Rocket Spanish

Rocket. Rampion, Hartshorn, Taragon, French Sor∣el, Candy Sorel, Cardoon, Indian Cresses, Garden Cersses, Broad leaved Cresses, and Curled Cresses, Chervil, sweet Chervit, Purslane, golden Purslane, Parsley, curld Parsley, Alisander, &c.

POT-HERB SEEDS, Endive, Succory, Borage, Bugloss, Burnet, Bludwort, Clary, Sorrel, Marygold, Pot Marjoram, Summer Savory, Colombine, Tansey, Nep, French Mallows, &c.

SWEET-HERBS SEEDS are Thyme, Hy∣sop, [ 10] Winter Savory, sweet Marjoram, sweet Basil, Rosemary, Lavender, Baum, Fennel, &c.

PHISICAL SEEDS are Carduus-bene∣dictus, Scurvy-grass, Angelica, Lovage, Smallage, Dill, Caruway, Cumin, Anise, Coriander, Gromil, Henbane, Flea, Foenugreek, Rubarb, Burdeck, Ele∣campane, Balsam, white Poppy, Cardemum, Gourd, Citrul, Wormseed, Wormwood, Rue, Oculus Christi, Line, Marsh-Mallows, &c.

Thus having given you a short Account of di∣vers [ 20] sorts of Seeds; In the next place it will be convenient to give some directions for the water∣ing them which is the chief preservative in a dry Season.

It is better to water a Plant, or Seeds seldom and throughly, than often and sparingly, for that is but a deceiving it, and causeth it to root not so deep as otherwise it would, and by consequence makes it the more obvious to the Weather.

If the Weather be never so dry when you Sow [ 30] your Seeds, do not Water them until they have been in the Ground some Days, and the Ground be a little setled about them.

Pond, or Rain-Water, is esteemed the best for the Watering Plants, or Seeds, and is preferred far before Spring, or River Water.

Many curious Plants and Seeds would suffer, were they not carefully Watered at the first Re∣moval, or in the dry Seasons; therefore 'tis not to be neglected: Early in the Spring (whilst the [ 40] Weather is cold) be cautious to Water the Leaves of the young tender Plants, only wet the Earth about them: When the Plants, or Seeds, are more hardy, and the Nights yet cold, Water them in the Foren••on; but when the Nights are warm, or the Days very hot, then the Evenings are best.

Directions for drying Herbs, and preserving Seeds. [ 50]

GAther them in their Prime, pick them clean from the withered and rotten Leaves; then tye them up in small Bunches, and hang them on Lines in the Wind and Sun to dry, but where no Rain comes, for that will make them look black, and also take away their Scent: When they are sufficiently dryed, put them in brown Paper-Bags, and so hang them up in con∣venient [ 60] dry places against the Walls to keep for your use; and if you lay them before the Winter comes in, the Sun for a few Hours will much refresh them.

Then for the preserving the Seeds, let them be gathered when they are through Ripe, and laid to dry in the Sun; then rub them out, and cleanse them from the Dust, and so preserve them for use.

Besides, the aforesaid Herbs raised from Seeds, there are divers raised from Sets, or Slips, and such are Mint, Sage, Hysop, &c.

Of Goosberries, Cu••rans, Rarsberries, and Strawberries.

GOOSBERRIES and CVRRANS are much of one nature, and the same Husbandry that is required to the one is to the other: They must be planted in good rich Ground, and of a deep and light Mould. You must keep the Ground in good heart, by Soyling it at least every third Year, and keep it dug, and well Hoed, to be free from Weeds, which are great Enemies to them: Also keep the Trees clear from Succors, or young Shoots, by cutting them off close to the Root; and suffer not a Bushy thick Head, for that will hinder the Suns influence to Ripen the Fruit, nor will they bear so well, nor the Fruit be so large as if thus trimmed and ordered.

If you plant either Goosberries, or Curran-Trees, for a full Crop, four or five foot square is enough, and be sure to plant them in even Ranges, which is better for the Digging, Hoing, Gathering, and all occasions.

There are several sorts of Goosberries, as the English, both White and Red; the Yellow and White Dutch Amber, which are the best and fairest Fruit.

CVRRANS are of three sorts, the Red, the White, and the Black, which as yet is not common.

RARSBERRIES are an excellent Fruit; They delight in a good stiff Ground, and will grow in the Shade, but then the Fruit is not so good and pleasing to the Pallate, being more waterish. They are best set in Beds; and if the Plants are set about a foot asunder they will soon be too thick, by reason of the great store of Shoots that spring up.

In the Winter let the Borders be Pared, and the Earth cast up on the Beds, with Dung over them, which will very much nourish the Plants, and cause them to bear the better, and keep the Beds clear from Weeds.

STRAWBERRIES are also of several sorts, viz. the great White Strawberry, the ordi∣nary Red one that grows in the Woods, and the Virginia Strawberry of late years brought into England, being a large Berry, and of a delicate taste, far exceeding the English.

They delight to be set in new broken Ground, or at least where they have not grown before, and should be removed every third Year, other∣wise they will decay and cease bearing, so that they must be removed into fresh Ground well prepared, and rich: But Wood-Strawberries are found to prosper best in Gardens. The Beds may be about four Foot broad, and not too thick set, for they will soon spread: Let them be kept clean Weeded, and in the Winter pa••e the Borders, and cast the Earth on the Beds, with

some Dung, as before directed, for Rarsberries to nourish them.

Watering them, especially in the hot, dry Weather, doth cause a great Encrease, and makes the Berry the larger.

If you would have Strawberries in Autumn, cut away the first Blossoms that they put forth, to hinder their timely Bearing, and they will Blow anew, and Bear in Autumn.

Thus having treated of the Kitchin-Garden, [ 10] the next business shall be to speak of the Garden of Delight, for Flowers, Greens, &c.

CHAP. VI.

Of Flowers, and how to Raise, and [ 20] Order them.

GArdens for Delight are of two sorts, viz. producing Flowers from Stalks, and Flow∣ers from Trees; under which Head all Greens are comprehended.

The most graceful Grounds for the Garden is a Level; and for a Soyl, neither a Sand nor a Clay, but a good deep light Black Mould, which [ 30] must be made rich with Soyl: But if the Ground is not upon a Flat, the best way is to divide it into parts with Descents, as the place will admit of, and for the laying it out into Walks, Beds, and the like; If your own Ingenuity will not perform the said Undertaking, 'tis convenient to have the assistance of one Expert therein, to the end your cost and labour may be effectual, and that you may not wish it were to do a∣gain. [ 40]

These Gardens are not good to be too big, for then requiring so much Cost and Attendance to look after carefully, 'tis probable many things will be neglected; which if but small, would be exactly kept, and according to the Proverb, A little well done, is better than a great deal ill done. Also great care ought to be taken in the Walks, that they be of good Workmanship, have a good Foundation and Thickness, that the high Wind may not blow them down; and for [ 50] Height, about nine or ten foot is sufficient, and under is too low: And Brick is far better than Stone, which is too cold for Fruit to ripen against (to that perfection) as against a Brick-Wall. Pailing (provided the Boards are whole Deals, and laid over one another Featheredg-wise) is very good, and more kindly than a Stone-Wall.

Fruits proper to be planted against the Walls, are May-Cherries, Apricots, Peaches, Nectorins, [ 60] Pears, and Vines; all which require a South Sun, so that the North-side is best next to the East; the West is indifferent good, as having the Morning Sun; but most fit for Plumbs, as the South-side is, which is fit for nothing else.

These Trees may be planted at about ten foot distance, and between each may be set Curran-Trees, to fill up the vacant places until the Trees spread forth, and require the said place, and then they may be cut up; and in ordering the Branches along the Wall, lay them low within a foot of the Ground, for when the Boughs, or Branches are well dispersed, and that there is no vacant places, it is an handsom sight to look upon; and above all things be sure to make the Borders (where you plant the Trees) very rich, which will extreamly bring forward the Trees.

To fill up the Borders set Auricula's, Wall-flowers, Stock Gilly-flowers, double Violets, Hipa∣ticaes, double Pinks, &c.

As for the laying out your Garden into Walks, Borders, and Grass-Plats, some few Directions shall suffice, every one having a Form to his own liking.

For Grass-Plats, let them be of Turf, and taken from the Barrenest and Hungryest Ground, provided the Grass is thick and short, for that which groweth Rank is not so good. Let the Ground be exactly made Level, then lay the Turf close together, beat it well with a heavy Beater, and be not slack in Watering it for some time, until it is setled to the Ground.

For GRAVELLING the WALKS, lay the Gravel thick, the Coursest at the Bottom, and the Fine at the Top, which should be Screned, and let the Middle be highest, with a gentle descent on either side. It is now the fashion to lay on the Top of the Walks Cockle-shells instead of Gravel, which is far better, and not very chargeable.

The Walks must be kept well Rolled, and the Grass-Plats well Mowed and Rolled, to keep them smooth and handsom.

Worms are great Eye-sores to Walks in casting up the Earth, for preventing which, it is good to strew amongst the Gravel good store of Bay-Salt.

It is now customary to set in the Borders that encompass the Grass-Plats Dwarf Fruit-Trees, as Pears, Apples, and Cherries, which are gene∣rally of the best and choicest Fruits growing, and you may have two or three sorts upon one Stock. They may be planted about ten or twelve foot asunder, with an Apple, or Pear-Tree, betwixt a Cherry; and betwixt the said Trees may be planted Roses, Currans, Gooseberries, Cypress-Tree, Miszerions, and the like; and the rest of the Beds may be set with Tulips, Daffa∣dillies, Lillies, Pionies, Martagons, and the like; and about the Edges of the Beds double Pinks; or else Box, which being always Green is plea∣sant to behold; the only fault is, it eateth out the heart of the Ground, so that you must keep it always Soyling.

EVER-GREEN HEDGES are very Ornamental; the best are made with Pyracantha and Phillirea, as much of the one as the other, equally dispersed; and for lower in small Gar∣dens, Celastrus and Alaternus. For the raising and setting of these Plants more anon. These Hedges must be kept orderly, cut Even on the Top and Sides, and not too Broad.

[illustration]

FLORA

To the R^t Hon^ble: Richard Lord Maitland Lord Iustice Clarke of the Kingdome of Scotland one of the Lords of his Ma^• most Hon^ble: privy Councell in that Kingdome and eldest son to the R^t. Honourable Charles Earle of Lauderdale

This Plate is humbly Dedicated by Richard Blome

Your Garden cannot be compleat, if the Borders are not bounded in with Border-Boards, which should be laid in Oyl for lasting, and Coloured for Ornament, with handsom round Balls placed at equal distances on the said Border-Boards, which may be coloured Black, and the Boards White.

A Summer-House is requisite to be erected in some convenient place of the Garden, which may be made of Framed Timber-Work, covered [ 10] over at the Top; and for curiosity of Work∣manship in the said House in Carving and Paint∣ing, it is left to your discretion.

The Summer Season being generally dry, the Flowers require frequent Watering, so that there should be the conveniency of a Well, or Fountain, and if Pumped out of a Well, a Cistern is ne∣cessary; for the Water should stand some time in the Sun before it is fit to be used on tender Plants and Flowers. [ 20]

For the maintaining and keeping up your Garden, a Nursery must be in some convenient place adjoyning to your Garden, where not only Stocks for Fruit, but Flowers raised by Seeds, Slips, and the like: And here your Hot-Beds should be for the Raising of choice Annuals, to be transported into your Garden.

In this Nursery should be some convenient House raised against the Side of the Wall for the Housing your Greens, and tender Plants [ 30] that are in Pots, as Gilly-flowers, &c. which the cold Winter will kill; as also to keep your Garden Tools in that they may be ready at hand on occasion, as Hoes, Rakes, Spades, Shovels, Garden-sheers, Pruning-hooks, Grafting and Inoculating Knives, Trowels, Saws, Chissels, Mallets, Ham∣mers, Nails, Garden Reel and Line, a Screen, a fine Wyer Riddle, Brooms, Watering Pots, Wheel-Barrows, and the like Tools.

In your Nursery there should always, be a [ 40] Stock of old Dung of several sorts, each laid by it self to be used as occasion requires; for if the Ground be Hot and Sandy, Cow-Dung mixt with Lime is best; and if cold and Clayey, then that of Horses, Pigeons, or Poultrey.

Now forasmuch as laying of Branches, plant∣ing by Cuttings, Budding, and the Hot-Bed, are in great use: It will be necessary to speak a word or two of each.

Laying of JVLYFLOWERS is thus [ 50] done; chuse such Slips that are strongest, prune off the ends and sides of the Top Leaves, and under the middlemost joynt cut the Stalk half through, and slit it upwards to the next joynt; then make a Hole in the Earth, and gently bend it down thereunto with a small hooked Stick to keep it from rising; then turn up the Head of the Slip, that the slit may open, in which po∣sture hold it with one Hand, and Earth it up with the other, pressing it down to keep the slit [ 60] upright, then water it.

There are some good Slips that grow so high from the Ground, that they can't be laid; in such case you must make use of small Pots, that have slits in one side made on purpose, and sold by Potters. These Pots are to be fitted with good Mould, and kept well watered.

The best Season for laying of Julyflowers is from Mid June to Mid July, and about the beginning of September they may be taken off with the Earth about them, and set in Beds or Pots fitted with good Earth. Place these Pots in the shade, sometimes gently watering them, but not too much; and to preserve them from great Rains, shelter them in Paint-Houses made of Boards for that purpose.

For the laying of Jasmines, Roses, Greens, and other Woody Plants after directed to be rai∣sed by Layers, make choise of such a Branch or Launce, that may easily be bended to the Ground; the same Years Shoots are the best for Rooting; cut it half through on the underside at a Joynt, or Knot, if it have any, then slit the same upward two or three Inches long, and prick the Bark through with a blunt pointed Awl in divers places about the slit: Take off the Tops of all Laid Plants except Greens, then make a wide Hole to hook it down, and follow the Directions as for Julyflowers.

Such Plants that will not take Root, let the upper end of the slit be bound very hard with Wyer, or Packthread, which will stop the Sap, and cause it to grow; and put some Rich Fat Earth about the place where they are layed

The best time to lay Greens, or other Plants is about Mid August, that they may have ta∣ken Root by the Spring, and the next Year will be fit to take off, as being well Rooted; and to cause them the better to Grow, water them often.

CVTTINGS are to be taken as soon as the Sap begins to rise: They must be cut sloop∣ing from a Joynt or Knot at the lower end, and left about a Foot long: Make a deep Trench and lay them therein a little slooping, fill the Trench with good Mould, and press it hard down, and often watered.

As for Budding, or Innoculating of Roses, it is performed after the same manner as for Fruits, of which more hereafter.

HOT BEDS are used for raising up of forward Plants, &c. and how to make the Beds is already Treated of in the fifth Chapter, con∣cerning Mellons.

If you remove any Rooted Plant of Flower or Herb, although it be in the midst of the Sum∣mer, if you remove them in the Cool of the Evening, and well water them, taking all the Earth about the Root, without loosening it from them there is no danger.

Should I make a Discourse of each par∣ticular Flower, and the great Variety of each sort, it were enough to make a Volum of it self. Mr. Rea, a great Florist, hath Published an elaborate piece of this kind, Entituled Flora, Ceres and Pomona, wherein he hath Treated of each particular Flower, as also of the Greens, as well those bearing Fruits and Flowers as otherwise. I shall therefore give a short Account of the Names thereof, and refer you to the Book it self.

Mr. Rea begins his Discourse of Flowers, with those that have either Scaly, Bulbous, Grumous, or Tuberous Roots, from whence the Leaves, Stalks

and Flowers do annually Spring, most of them dying even to the Root soon after their Flow∣ring. And first with the Lilies and Marta∣gons.

Of LILIES.

THe Crown Imperial, the Double Crown Im∣perial, the Yellow Crown Imperial, the Narrow Crown Imperial, with a reddish Flower. [ 10] The Persian Lily, the red Lily, the fiery red bulbed Lily, the double red Lily, the yellow Lily, the white Lily, the white Lily of Constantinople, the double white Lily.

MARTAGONS.

THe Mountain Lily or Martagon, the Mar∣tagon Imperial, the white Martagon, the white spotted Martagon, the spotted Martagon of [ 20] Canada, the Martagon of Constantinople, the red spotted Martagon of Constantinople, the Marta∣gon of Hungary, the Virginian Martagon, the Martagon of Pompony, the yellow spotted Mar∣tagon, and the yellow Martagon without Spots.

All these sorts of Lilies and Martagons flower in and about June, and are all, except those of Canada and Virginia, strong and hardy Plants and great Encreasers. [ 30]

FRITILLARIES.

THese are of two Species, the one with small Roots, sharp pointed green Leaves, and large Flowers; and the other with bigger Roots, round pointed whiter green Leaves, and different fashioned smaller Flowers, and of each kind there are several sorts, viz.

The Common Chequered Fritillary, the dou∣ble Bush Fritillary, the white Fritillary, the yel∣low [ 40] Fritillary, the darkred Fritillary, the great red Fritillary, the great yellow Fritillary, the spotted yellow Fritillary, the great yellow Ita∣lian Fritillary, the small Italian yellowish green Fritillary, the exotick narrow leaved Fritillary, with a whitish green double Flower, the small yellow Fritillary of Portugal, the black Fritil∣lary.

These do Flower about the end of March and beginning of April. The Roots lose their Fibres [ 50] as soon as the Stalks are dry, and may then or any time after before August be taken up, and kept dry for some time; but not to be kept longer out of the Ground than Mid August.

TVLIPS.

THere are innumerable many sorts of Tulips, [ 60] all which are (or may be) comprehended under three sorts, viz. the Early, the Middle, and the latter Flowring Tulips, of which in order.

The Early Flowring Tulips are the Winter Duke, General Duke, General Brancion, pretty Betty, Duches Brancion, Lac Varine, Violet Ratgans, Violet de Remow or Purpure Lisse, Palto van Leyden, Florisante, Religious, Blindenburgh, Nonsuch petits late, the Corn Heart, Admiral Crinki, General Molswick, Cleremont, Paragon-Cleremont, Admiral Encusen, Morillion Cramosine, the Noble Aurora, the Early perfect, Pirishot, Princess, Fair Ann, the Omen, the Marquess, Vice-Roy, Galatea, Maria, the Superintendent, Auraro van Bart, Paragon Greberi, Gilden Blome Brentel, Gilden Blome Seonie, Alcetus, Vnique of Delfe, Vgenia, Climene, Clitus, Venetian, Retrocede, Dorade, Witten Root Hodie, Bona∣ventura, dos de Chamoy, Paragon Iserant, pur∣ple and white Evers-Wind, Bran Moresco &c.

The Middle Flowring Tulips are, the Swish of Portugal, Munera, Semper Augustus, the Prince of Orang, General Essex, Pluto, Pass Endi∣nard, Paragon oudinard van Bole, Agot Morine, Agot Robine, Agot Robine Paragon, or Robinet, the white Agot, Tudart, Jasper Tudart, Harvy, Admiral vander Pool, Morillion, Nacarat, Car∣dinal Flambiant, Prince Cardinal, Morillion de Anvers, Orient Virgin, General Gowda, Envy, Triumphans, B••w Turnier, Bell la Bar, Bell Bre∣ire, Bell Brune, the Cardinal, Vesta, Royal Ve∣sta or Non pare, Mazarine, Sattine, Morillion de Argiers, the Pearl, Bien venu, Admiral Cataline, Susanna, the Pelican, Belline, Pass Belline, General Sweman, Camusetta, Paragon Franswise, Admiral of France, Benedictine, Para∣gon Blackbam, Paragon de Gildon, Dautile de flure, Pass Rosie, Rosilliante, Holofernes, the Chimney-Sweeper, Turban, Admiral Heart, Zeablom, Cedo Nulli, Lauscot Bole, Altes Royal, Zweman, John Garet, or Chamolet, Paragon Lis∣gen, the Parot, the Rich Parot, Agot Rampard, Agot Gekeire, Star de Mans, Marvelia de Qua∣cle, the President, the Royal President, Nofte la perfeit, Pompeza, the Eagle, Eminentissime, the Royal Agot, Agot Oriental, Paragon-Flori∣son, Morillion-Curtiis, Admiral de Mans, Jaco∣bea rectified, Paragon de Costa, General of Hol∣land, La Towers, Bell pallas of Paris, Pass bel Tew, Marbre Jesper, Agot poit vin, white pass Cittadel, Dorile, Carthage, Diana, Dis∣pute Doria, General Doctor Bolesom van Bole, Otter, brown Purple Cataline, Pass He∣ron, Violetta, the Flanders Widdow, Princess Royal, the White Widdow, Prince of Wales, Princess, Turgiana, Ariana, Rundelo, Brown Anvers, Bew Anvers, General Anvers, General Bole, Paragon Geron, Dorothy of Holland, Caro∣lus, Volverte, Pass Zeablon of Paris, Brown Purple de Marris, Agot Hanmer, Agot St. Den∣nis, Brabazon, Hispaniolet, Agot de Gorier, Arch Duke Imperial, Le Arch de Auckre, Amphi∣trio, Armiante, Consiergi, Althea, Atlas, Para∣gon Alette, Sigismond, Vnick la Croy, Jacobine, the Brown Purple of Marris, the Brown Purple Pa∣ragon, the Brown Purple Blassack, the Brown Purple King, and the Brown Purple Prelate.

Other good Tulips, viz. Amarantine, Atlas Aurora Celeste, Bellincourt, Borimda, Brabazon Elserier, Brabazon Hugh van Hij, Cardinal Ma∣zerine, Celestine, Dulcina, Dutchess of Venice, Eliza, Faustina, Finetta, Flenricourt, General Picot, Her∣cules,

Jasper Angloice, Jacobine, Imperial, la Con∣stante, la valles Mahomet, Melinda, Mirandola, Morillion Chirar, Monster Cytroon Parat, Morine, Oriental, Non plus bella, Paragon Aletta, Paragon, Hellena, Paragon Bush, Paragon Quacle, Paragon Gowda Quacle, Richmont, St. Nicaise, Sigsmont, Speciosa, and Turney Dolphin.

Admiral de Groot, Admiral van Zierchee, Admi∣ral Lifebrews, Admiral Sierchee, Beline, Camillus, Dorillies, Daphne, Dorothea Paragonee, Duke of [ 10] Calabria, Don Frederick, Emillia, Floridort, Galli∣ard, General Hanniball, General Pump, Harders, Jacasta, Keremi, Luxemburg Paragonee, Metander, Nonsuch, Orinda, Paragon Vesta, Paragon Orant, Paragon Sheldenburg, Paragon past Marmillion, Queen Elizabeth, Queen of France, Rechelu, Shoon Hellena, Timon, Victoria, Venus, Wig∣gons, Paragonee, Xenophon, Youngster, Zeablon, King, Zelot, and Zacaria.

Other sorts Tremontane, Proteus, Amidore, [ 20] Brown Georg, Agot Pigot, Aurora, Clytus, Agot Bizar, Rich Portugal, Memorables, Proserpine, the Curle, Eremanthe, Cleomedon, la Billy, Cle∣lia, Zelinda, Phenix, Charmante, la Fine, A∣mazon, Swissisis, and Philadelphia.

The latter Flouring Tulips, viz. Pato Madam, the yellow Crown, Prince de la More, the Zero∣tine Zeoblom, Gresound, Star of Venus, Paragon Mullen, Agot Romane, Marbre Harlus, Tenebris, &c. [ 30]

The Roots of all Tulips lose their Fibres eve∣ry Year, and are to be taken up so soon as the Stalks are dry, which is about Midsummer, and must be kept dry on the board of some Room until setting time, vvhich is about the beginning of October.

The Roots in light Ground may be taken up with the Hand, but in stiff you must use a Trowel; and those that are curious, lay every sort by it self on Papers, and write the Names thereon; [ 40] and you must take away the dead Fibres, and the loose outward Skins, as also the Off-Sets or Roots to set again.

The best Tulips should be set by themselves in good prepared Beds, and the ordinary ones may be disposed of in Borders; but so disperse them that there may be a handsom mixture of Co∣lours.

After the Flower is shead break off the Head, or Seed-Pod from the Stalk, unless of such that [ 50] you intend to keep for Seed, which will cause them to dry down the sooner, as also to fortifie the Roots.

Those that are designed for Seed, are to be made choise of when in the prime of Flower; choose the strongest Stalks, such as have the most benefit of the Sun, and such as have the Bottoms, and Tamis, either blew or purple.

When the Seed is ripe the Pods will open, and the Stalks will be dry; then gather them off, but [ 60] rub not the Seed out until about the end of Sep∣tember; then sow the Seed in Beds of fine Mould; In April the Seeds will come up high enough to Weed, and about Midsummer (two years after the sowing) they may be taken up, the Roots clean∣sed, and set in Rows at a wider distance; and so every year until they come to bear Flowers, still altering the Ground with rich, and fresh Earth; Those that prove excellent, keep, and the com∣mon ones cast away; but although they come up at first of one Colour, if they be Brimstone, Dove, Orange, Hair, Isabella, Gredeline, Shamway, or any light and strange Colour, cast them not away, for in a Year or two many such have changed in∣to good marked Flowers.

NARCISSVS or DAFFODILLS.

THere are divers sorts of Daffodills, as well single as double, some with broad, and some with narrow green Leaves; some bearing one, and others many Flowers on a Stalk. And a∣mongst the great variety, these sorts following are of chief esteem amongst Florists.

Narcissus Non parel, or the Incomparable Daf∣fodil; the Incomparable Daffodil with a double Flower or Cup; the great double French Daffodil; the lesser double French Daffodil; the double white Daffodil of Virginia; the great Daffodil of Africa; the great Brimstone coloured Daffodil; the French Daffodil with the yellow Cup; the white Daffodil, which many flowers; the yellow Daffodil of Ciprus with many flowers; the great African Daffodil; the white Junquilia, or Rush Daffodil, the white turning Junquilia, the yellow turning Junquilia; the yellow turning Junquilia, with a white Cup; the white turning Junquilia with a yellow Cup; the Junquilia with a great Cap; the double Junquilia; the gr••at Sea Daffodil; the Indian broad Leaved Daffodil; the Indian broad Leaved Autemn Daffodil; the Indian Au∣tumn Daffodil; the broad Leaved Daffodil with Scarlet Flowers, called Jacobea; the broad Leaved Virginian Daffodil, with a Purple Flower; the great yellow Spanish Bastard Daffodil; Tuggies great double Bastard Daffodil; the lesser double Bastard Daffodil, or Wilmores double Daffodil; Parkinsons double Daffodil; the double English Bastard Daffodil; the white Bastard Junquilia; the Gol∣den double narrow Leaved Daffodil; the great yellow Bastard Junquilia.

The greatest part of these Daffodilis are har∣dy, great encreasers, except it be those that bear many Flowers on a Stalk, as also the double white of Virginia, the double yellow of Cyprus, and those of Canstantinople.

Not much unlike unto the Daffodills as to nature, are the greater early Bulbous Violet, the lesser early Bulbous Violet, and the great late Flowering Bulbous Violet.

These as well as the Daffodil•• are early Flow∣ers, and do also much encrease by the Root, and very apt to off-sets, they lose their Fibres, and are taken up out of the Ground, and ordered like un∣to Tulips.

The HYACINTD, or IACINTH.

THe sorts of most esteem of this Flower, are either the great Indian tuberous Rooted Hyacinth, the great yellow Musk Grape Flower, or yellow Muscari, the Ashcoloured Muscari, the red Muscari, the white Muscari, the fair haired Jacinth, the fair curled haired Jacinth, the great Starry Ja∣cinth

of Peru, the great white Starry Jacinth of Peru, the great blush Starry Jacinth of Peru, the Sky-coloured Grape-flower, the white Grape-flower, the blush Grape-flower, the branched Grape-flower, the great Oriental Jacinth, the Celestial Hyacinth, the early white Oriental Jacinth, the fair double blew Oriental Jacinth, the common blew Starry Jacinth, the early Starry Jacinth.

All these lose their Fibres, and may be re∣moved in June and July; they are hardy, and [ 10] require no great Attendance; most of them bear Seeds, and are sowed as Tulip Seeds.

ORNITHOGVLVM.

THe Star of Bethlehem, the greatest white Star of Bethlehem, the Star flower of A∣rabia, the Star flower of Naples, the yellow Star of Bethlehem, the Star-flower of Aethiopia, the great white spiked Star of Bethlehem; [ 02]

These aforesaid Flowers lose their Fibres, and the Roots may be taken up so soon as the Stalks are dry, and may be kept out of the Ground un∣til September.

MOLY.

THe great Moly of Homer, the Indian Moly, the Hungarian Moly, Serpents Moly, the yellow Moly, the Spanish purple Moly, the Spa∣nish Silver Cupped Moly, Dioscorides his Moly, the [ 30] sweet Moly of Montpelier, and Homers Moly,

These lose their Fibres, and are to be taken up after the Stalks are dry; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

The ASPHODIL.

THis bears a Star-like-flower; the chief sorts are the great white branched Asphodil, the white unbraced Asphodil, the blush coloured [ 40] Asphodil, the great white striped Asphodil, the little white hollow Asphodil, the small yellow Asphodil, the yellow Lily Asphodil the Lily Asp∣hodil, with a white Flower, and the Lily Asphodil with a blush Flower.

The SPIDER-WORT.

OF this Flower, the best sorts are the Savoy Spider-wort, the great Italian white Spider-wort, [ 50] the common unbraced Spider-wort, and the Virginian Spider-wort.

The Lily Asphodils flower about the end of May, and the Spider-worts about the beginning of June. They are both hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl; the best time to take them up and transplant them is in August.

PEONY.

THis Flower is Male and Female, and of [ 60] several sorts both single and double; the chief are the double Red Peony, the double Pur∣ple, the double Carnation, the double Blush, or White, and the double Strip'd Peony.

They generally flower in May, are very hardy and fit for any Soyl. They are a very spreading and ornamental Flower, and usually set at the Corners of Borders.

The MEADOW SAFFRON.

THe principal sorts of this Flower are the Party-coloured Meadow Saffron, the varie∣gated Meadow Saffron, the dark Purple striped Meadow Saffron, the Checkered Meadow Saffron of Naples, the Checkered Meadow Saffron of Chio, the double Meadow Saffron, the double variegated Meadow Saffron, and the greatest dou∣ble Meadow Saffron.

When the Stalks of these are dry; take them up, and about the beginning of September they may be Set again; they will suddenly put forth Fibres, and soon after will flower; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

CROCVSES.

THis Flower is of divers sorts, some flowering in the Spring, and others in Autumn, and of this the true Saffron is a kind; the other chief sorts are the great white Crocus, the white Crocus of Masia, the pale feathered Crocus, the Imperial Crocus, the Royal Crocus, the smaller purple Crocus, the greater purple Crocus, the blew Neo∣politan Crocus, the purple feathered Crocus, the purple striped Crocus, the great purple striped Crocus, the greater purple flamed Crocus, the yel∣low Crocus, the yellow striped Crocus, the Cloth of Gold Crocus, the Silver-coloured Autumn Cro∣cus, the purple Mountain Crocus, and the Autumn Mountain Crocus.

All these sorts of Crocusses both of the Spring and Autumn lose their Fibres, with their Leaves, and may be then taken up and kept dry; those of Autumn until August, and those of the Spring until October; they are hardy, and will thrive in any Soyl.

The IRIS, or FLOWER DE LIS.

THere are great varieties of this Flower, viz. the Persian Iris, or Flower de Lis, the English blew bulbous Iris, the great bulbous Iris with a rich blew Flower, the blew striped Iris, the great purple variable bulbous Iris, the great Ash-coloured striped bulbous Iris, the great varia∣ble coloured bulbous Iris, the great pale Red, or Peach-coloured bulbous Iris, the great white bul∣bous Iris, the great white striped Iris, the great white bulbous Iris striped with purple, and the great yellow bulbous Iris, or Flower de Lis.

The lesser bulbous Flower de Lis, or Iris, are also of several sorts, viz.

The Spanish narrow Leaved Iris, the narrow Leaved bulbous Iris with a spotted Stalk.

Other sorts of Flawer de Lis in France; viz. the Agat Iris, the African Iris, Aleppo Iris, Am∣bois Iris, Arabian Iris, the Iris of Avergne, Iris du Blois, Iris de Bologne, Iris of Britany, Iris of Brie, Chamber Iris, Iris of Candy, Iris of Castile, Iris of Damascus, Iris of Egypt, Iris of Flo∣rence, Iris of Florida, Iris of Frontiers, Iris of Gascogny, Grand Signiors Iris, Iris of Greece▪ Iris

of Guiney, Indian Iris, Iris of Judea, Iris of the Levant, Iris of the Lombards, Iris of Lorrain, Iris of Lybia, Iris of Macedon, Iris of Maldives, Iris of Melinda, Iris of Me••ico, Iris of Milan, Iris of the Moluccoes, Iris of Parma, Iris of Picardy, Iris of Poets, Iris of Poictou, Iris of Portugal, Iris of Pay, Rochetain Iris, Iris Royal, Iris of Savoy, Iris of Sicily, Iris of Siena, Swiss Iris, Iris of Syria, Iris of Tartary, Iris of Turkey, Iris of the Valleys, Iris of Valois, Iris [ 10] of Vandois, and the Venetian Iris.

The Seeds of all these are sowed and ordered as Tulips.

Other sorts of Flower de Lis.

THe Tuberous or Flag-leaved Flower de Lis, the great and lesser Chalidonian Iris, the great Flower de Lis of Dalmatia, the blew Flower de Lis of Asia, the twice flowering Portugal [ 20] Flower de Lis, the variable Purple Iris of Came∣ranius, the blew Party-coloured Iris, the white variable Flower de Lis, the yellow Flower de Lis of Tripoli, the great blew narrow-Leaved Iris, the narrow-Leaved variable Iris of Clusius, the greater double narrow-Leaved Iris, the great white Dwarf Iris, and the Blush-coloured Dwarf Flower de Lis, or Iris.

All these Flowers are hardy, and will grow in any Soyl. [ 30]

CORN-FLAG.

THe chief sorts of this Flower are the Corn-Flag of Constantinople, the Corn-Flag with a bright red Flower, and the Corn-Flag with bright Flowers.

These Flower about July, when their Stalks are dry they lose their Fibres, and may be taken up, and ordered as Iris. [ 40]

The BEE-FLOWER.

THe Bee-Flower, Gnats, Satyrion, Fly-Orchis, Dogs-Tooth Violet, Dogs-Tooth with a white Flower, Dogs-Tooth with a pale Purple-flower, Dogs-Tooth with a Red-flower, and Dogs-Tooth with a Yellow-flower. [ 50]

The SOW-BREAD.

THese are also of several sorts, viz. the pur∣pled Cyclamen of the Spring, the white Candy Cyclamen of the Spring, the double white Spring Cyclamen of Antioch, the pale Purple Cyclamen of the Spring, the Summer Cyclamen, the Roman Cyclamen, the Ivy-leaved Cyclamen, the Narrow-leaved Cyclamen, and the Double-leaved [ 60] Cyclamen of Antioch.

The Roots of these Flowers do not lose their Fibres, and therefore are seldom to be removed; but if transplanted, it is in June, of July.

ANEMONIES, or the WILD FLOWER.

THere are great variety of these Flowers, but may be reduced under these two Heads, viz. the Anemone with broad Leaves, and the Anemone with narrow Leaves; and both sorts bring forth divers Slips of curious Flowers, viz.

The common great double variable Broad-leaved Anemone, the common Broad-leaved scar∣let Anemone, the Broad-leaved Anemone with a double scarlet flower, the Broad-leaved double scarlet variegated Anemone, the double Broad-leaved red Anemone, the Broad-leaved double purple Anemone, the double Broad-leaved purple variegated Anemone, the Broad-leaved Anemonies with single flowers, the common double Narrow-leaved red Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved variable Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved scarlet Anemone, the double scarlet variegated Narrow-leaved Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone with a Scarlet Thrum, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone, called Nacara; the the double Brimstone coloured Narrow-leaved Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double green Ane∣mone, the greater white Narrow-leaved double Anemone, the Narrow-leaved blush Anemone, cal∣led Colombina; the double Narrow-leaved Rose-coloured Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double spotted blush Anemone, the Narrow-leaved dou∣ble purple Anemone, the Narrow-leaved double Lavender-coloured Anemone, the Narrow-leaved Anemone with the Purple Thrum, the Narrow-leaved double Anemone with the dark Purple Thrum, called Amarant; the double Narrow-leaved variegated Amarant Anemone, the double Narrow-leaved Anemone of five Colours, and the Noble double Anemone.

Besides these Anemonies already mentioned, which have been long in England, there are abundance of other new sorts raised of Seeds in France and Flanders, all bearing five double Flowers differing from each other both in colour and fashion, the Names of which are taken notice of in Mr. Rea's Book of Flowers, fol. 123.

These Anemonies (both double and single) bring forth their Flowers in March, April, and May, which for the generality are very beau∣tiful; and for the ordering them great care must be taken, as to the Soyl of the Ground, the Season, and manner of planting and taking them up, which Mr. Rea hath largely treated of.

RANVNCVLVS, or CROWFOOT.

THis Flower is of divers sorts, those of most esteem are the double white Ranunculus of Candia, the Cloth of Silver Crowfoot of Candia, the double yellow Crowfoot of Asia, and the double red Crowfoot of Asia.

There are divers other sorts of Ranunculus's, or Crowfoot of Asia, with fine double Flowers; viz. Bozvel or Plumash, Pianisco, Sang de ••e••f, the Monster or Giant Ranunculus, the great Mon∣ster

of Rome, Puvoin of Rome, Marvelia, Spheri∣cus, Fericus Trashe, Surifix, Turks Turvan, Mar∣vellen de Paris.

Ranunculus of Asia with single Flowers are of divers sorts and colours, which with Direction for the ordering them are set down by Mr. Rea, Pag. 131.

WOLF-BANE. [ 10]

THis is also of divers kinds, the chief are the Winter Wolf-Bane, the pale Winter Wolf-Bane, &c.

These bring forth their Flowers with green Leaves in January, which is the chief Rarity in them.

HIPATICA, or LIVER-WORT.

THis is of two sorts, the one bearing single, [ 20] the other double Flowers, which are of most esteem, the chief of which are the double purple Hipatica, the double Blew, the double White, and the double Red.

These Flowers about Mid March are to be ordered as Auricula's.

HELLEBORVS, or HELLEBOR.

THis is of two sorts, viz. Black and White; [ 30] the true black Hellebor, called the Christmas-Rose, the white Hellebor, with a Dark-red Flower, our Ladies-Slipper, the small white Hellebor, and the small purplish Hellebor.

GENTIAN.

THe Gentian is of several sorts, the chief are the Great Gentian with a yellow Flower, and the Gentian of the Spring. [ 40]

BELL-FLOWERS.

THese are also of several sorts, and both double and single, the chief are the Peach-Leaved Bell flower, the Steeple Bell-flower, the great Canterbury Bell, the double Canterbury Bell, Giants Throat-Wort, and the Cardinals Flower.

All these Flowers are easily encreased, and thrive very well in most Soyls, provided they stand not [ 50] too hot in the Sun; but the Cardinals Flower is more tender, and requires good care.

JVCCA INDICA, with other Indian Plants.

THe Indian Jucca, the Virginian Silk, the In∣••••an flowering Reed, and the Indian Fig.

AVRICVLA's. [ 60]

THis Flower is of several sorts and colours, as Purple, Red or Scarlet, Yellow or Buff, and White: Most bear the Names of those that raised them, which are taken notice of by Mr. Rea, fol▪ 142. together with Directions for the raising and ordering them.

PRIMROSES, and COWSLIPS.

THese Flowers are of divers other sorts, than those common to us in England. Mr. Rea takes notice of these sorts, viz. the commou double Garden Primrose, the Couslip Hose in Hose, the double green Couslip, the double green Prim∣rose, the Jack-an-Apes on Horseback, the Couslip with a Jagged Hose, the Red Primrose, the double Red Primrose, the Red Couslip, or Oxlip, the Orange coloured Couslip, and the Red Couslip in Hose.

CHAMPIONS.

THese are likewise of several sorts, viz. the double Red Rose Champion, the double White Rose Champion, the single Nonsuch, the Flower of Bristol, and the rich Scarlet Nonsuch.

WALL-FLOWERS.

THe principal sorts of this Flower are the great single Wall-flower, the double Wall-flower, the single White, and the double White; the double Red, and the pale Yellow Wall-flower.

STOCK-GILLIFLOWERS.

THis Plant is of several sorts and Colours, and both single and double, viz. the dou∣ble stripd Stock-Julliflower, the yellow Stock, the blush Stock, and the whiter Stock-Julli∣flower.

They are raised from Seed, and Slips; if from Slips, make choise of such Branches that bear no Flowers, which cut off some distance from the Stock; then slit down the Bark at the End of the Slip, about half and Inch in three or four places, which peel as far as it is slit, and turn up; then cut off the naked Woody part close to the Rind that is turned up; then make a pretty wide Hole in the Earth to set it in about three Fingers deep with the Bark spread open round about the end thereof; which done, cover it with good Earth, keep it in the shade, and water it for some time, to cause it to draw Root.

Plants that bear double White-flowers.

DOuble Pellitory, double Feather-few, double Camomil, double Dog-fennel, double Lady-Smocks, and double Daffies.

GILLI-FLOWERS.

THis Flower for its beautifulness and fragrant smell may deservedly have the prehemi∣nence of all others. There are an innumer∣able many sorts both double and single, a∣mongst which these following are taken notice of by Mr. Rea, which had their original from Holland, Flanders, and the Netherlands; viz. Achilles, Acteon, Admiral of England, Admiral Young, Admiral Rowse, Admiral Lifgins, Admiral of Spain, Admiral of Arragon, Ad••nis, Agot,

Bertine, Ajax, Abertine, Alcetus, Abiance, Impe∣rial, Alexander the Great, Alexander of Holland, Albertine, Amazone, Andronicus, Angelion, Approaching Sun, Apollo, Apelles, Argus, Astrea, Attalanta, Augustus Caesar, Augustina, Aurora, Aure-stella; Barnadine, Barkshire, Beauty of Eng∣land, Baron of France, Bel Triumphant, Bell-Montwas, Belvidere, Bel Curtisan, Bel Angloise, Bel Believer, Bel in Younton, Bel Infanta, Bel Fra••sway, Bel Rose, Bel Gentoice, Bel Magdalen, [ 10] Bel Holandres, Bel Antus, Bel Brunetta, Bel Blome, Bel Joy, Bel Rosaline, Bellarmine, Beloved, Bethlem, Beu Buisson, Beu de Lile, Beu de Den∣nis, Beu Deeper, Belle Olinda, Beu Monelle, Beu de Corn, Beu de Harlem, Beersheba, Boor Van Lakerbe••ck, Bele de Lanoy, Belle Princess, Belle de Bruxels, Blazing Star, Black Imperial, Blanch de Bruxels, Blew Christal, Bohemia Crown, Bona∣ventura, Bonum M••gnum, Brown purple, Brabason, Brewers Paragon, Brown Favorite, Brown Apelles, [ 20] Bride of Holland, Brun de Brune, Burstol, Cardi∣nal, Carthusa, Charles the Great, Charles the Fifth, Charles the First, Charles the Second, Christal, Chancellor, Cleopatra, Colusa, Count Mansfield, Count Lodowick, Count Florus, Count of China, Count Henrick, Countess of Flanders, Covenant of England, Court of Castile, Coridon, Crown of Eng∣land, Cursella, Cupidon Royal, Cydonia, Darius, Daris, Diana, Don Alphonso, Don Doria, Don John, Dolphin, Dore, Dorothy of Holland, Dorillisant, [ 30] Duke of Anjou, Duke of Bucks, Duke of Burgun∣dy, Duke of Brunswick, Duke of Cambridge, Duke of Freesland, Duke of Florence, Duke of Lor∣rain, Duke Phillip, Duke Victor, Dutch Royal Dunkirk, Dutchess of Brabant, Dutchess of Cleave∣land, Dutchess of Monmouth, Dutchess of York. Eagle Royal, Eaglet, Emperour Constantius, Dal∣fast, Empire of Russia, Emperour, Emperors Court, Emperour Rodolphus, Emperatoria, Emillai, Fair Dutchess, Fair Flora, Fair Frances, Fair Hanna, [ 40] Fair Hellena, Fair shepherdest, Favorite, Fields∣by, Florida Floradine, french Marble, Galatea, General of Austria, General de Dorne, General Gouda, General of Holland, General of the In∣dies, General Lambert, General Monk, General Palmer, General de Pike, General Rowse, Gene∣ral Tuest, General Wigons, German Empire, Giants Head, Giganti••k, Glistering Star, Golden Crown, Golden Piece, Grand Duke Royal, Grave Earnest, Gray Florist, Gray Hulo, Grand Britain, Grand [ 50] Constantine, Grand Caesar, Grave Florus, Grave William, Grave Vandike, Great Boor, Great Cap∣tain, Great James, Great Monarch, Great Prophet, Great Seneca, Great Tamberlain, Great Turk, Gro∣tius, Halsion, Harison, Heart of Oak, Hecuba, House of Peers, House of Commons, Host of Bohemia, Honora, Hugonot, Imperial of Hol∣land, Incarnadine-Corinthi, Incarnadine de Bezond▪ Incarnadine de Blan, Joyesse, Issabella la bella, Ju∣piter, Juno, Kereme, Kill-all, King of Assyria, [ 60] King of Bohemia, King David, King of England, King of Aethiopia, King of France, King of Naples, King of Poland, King of Portugal, King Rehobo∣ham, King of the Romans, King Solomon, King of Spain, Kings Court, La Croy, La Morisco, Land of Promise, Lackerbet, La Joyesse, La Perle de Den∣nis, La Placidia, La Super Bona, Last Hope, La∣tisson Dore, Leviam, Le••nt de Scemes, Leo, Linne Frecal, Lord of the Camp, Loofte, Lorea, Loy∣alty, Lord of Gaunt, Lord Frances, Lord Pleasure-Boat, Low Haule, Lusty-gallant, Master de Camp, Mamada, Marvel de Mundi, Martin Grim, Mar∣ble-stone, Marble-Rose, Mearmaid, Minerva, Mi∣rabilia, Morillion-Nonparel, Monstrum of England, Monstrum of Holland, Morillion-Triumphant, Morning-star, New St. George, New Bonaventura, New Hogonet, New Appollo, New Boore, New Cook, Covenant, Nesarial, Nimph Royal, Non-parelia, Non-such, Olimpia, old Vestal, Omega, Oriental, Ovid, Oxenar Oyleman, Pass Monarch, Pass Imperial, Pass Tout, Painted-Lady, Pantelece, New Para∣gon Aleto, Paragon Rike, Philomel, Phillis, Pira∣mid, Pico••omine, Polidore, Prince of Tire, Prince Henry, Prince Rupert, Prince Thomas, Prince of Wales, Prince of Orange, Princes Court, Princess of Savoy, Purple Paragon, Purple Imperial, Purple Royal, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Katherine, Queen of France, Queen of Sweden, Queen of Portugal, Queen of Persia, Queen Hester, Queen Hellena, Queen Cleopatra Queen, Biddia, Ravisant, Regent, Reutineere, Remus, Romulus, Rosilliante, Rosamond, Rose of Jerico, Royal Match, Royal Oak, Royal Je∣remy, Royal Exchange, Roxalana, St. John, St. Jo∣seph, St. Michael, St. George, Salamander, Salis∣bury, Soliman, Sommer Fair, State House of Am∣sterdam, Super Bonerges, Susanna, Super Eminent, Tapisere, Thodesier, the Jewel, the Cook, Thomu∣lin, Tiberius Caesar, Triumphans, Tribune, Triumph of Sapin, Tricolor, Troupes, Validdi, Van Velson, Vetonica, Vestina, Virgin of England, Virgin of Middlesex, Virgin of Orleance, Virgin of Lile, Virgin of Cullen, Vice Admiral, Vice Roy, Victo∣ria, Vlysses, Vnick de Lovel, Vtrick Duny, Vter∣pendragon, Warwick Hero, white Diana, white Nobless, white Hugonet, white Lady, Witties Rich Scarlet.

By this Catalogue the great Variety of Dutch Julyflowers doth appear, which by them are Yearly raised from Seeds, but it will not be so with us in England, as Mr. Rea noteth, for they will soon degenerate, and become single, nor will they be so large, thick and double, neither of such well intermixed, striped, and flaked Colours; And all the best Dutch Flowers may be comprehended under these three Heads, viz. Red and White, Purple and White, and Scarlet and White.

And amongst the great Variety of Flowers, these following are now in most esteem.

Red and White JVLYFLOWERS.

AChilles, Ajax, Alcetus, Approaching Sun, Argus, Barkshire, Bel Infanto, Bel Joy, Bel-Fransway, Bella de Bruxels, Bella Brunetta, Bo∣hemia, Crown, Coridon, Count of Lodowick, Cy∣donia, Duke of Lorrain, Duke of Bucks, Duke of Anjou, Duke of Florence, General of Hol∣land, Great Turk, Grand Duke Royal, King Charles the Second, La Super Bona, Low Ha••le, Marble Stone, Monstrum of England, Monstrum of Holland, Polidore, Prince Henrick, Queen Katherine, Queen Hellena, Super Eminent, Vir∣gin of England, Virgin of Cullen, Virgin of Middlesex.

Purple and White JVLYFLOWERS.

ADmiral of Spain, Aliance Imperial, Andro∣nicuus Beloved, Brown Purple, Cleopatra, Court of China, Crown of England, Darius, Dolphin, Duke of Burgundy, Fair Hellena, General Wi∣gons, Grave William, Great James, King of Spain, King of Assiria, King of Naples, La Pla∣cidia, New Appollo, New Hugomot, New St George, [ 10] Oylman, Pass tout, Prince of Tyre, Purple Im∣perial, Purple Paragon, Queen of France, Queen Elizabeth, Queen of Portugal, Queen Biddia, Salisbury, Tapisere, Vlysses, Warwicks Hero.

Scarlet and White JVLYFLOWERS.

ALbertine, Attalanta, Aurora, Baron of France, Bel Gentoice, Beauty of England, Blazing Star, Brewers-Paragon, Pride of Hol∣land, [ 20] Don Doria, Duke of Cambridge, Dutch∣ess of Cleaveland, Dutchess of Brabant, Empe∣ror Constantius, Fair Flora, Golden Crown, Golden Piece, Isabella, Labella, Juno, King of France, King of Poland, Land of Promise, Lord of Gaunt, Mirabilia, New Cook, New Paragon, Aletta, Pa∣ragon Rike, Remus, Romu-lus, Rosamond, Royal Ex∣change, Somerfair, Tiberius Caesar.

These Julyflowers are in their pride and glory [ 30] in July, and so continue till the middle of Au∣gust.

For the Raising and Ordering these choise Flow∣ers, take these following Directions. Besure to make choise of a good S••••l, neither too stiff, nor too light; and withal that it is very rich by mixing good store of old rotten Dung amongst the Earth, This Earth put into your Pots designed for your Flowers, and therein set the Layers, either as you take them off in September, or else in March [ 40] being the Spring time; but before you Plant them, cut away with a pair of Scissers from the Layers all the Dead Leaves, and the Tops that are too long; and when you take them up to set into the Pots, let the Earth be about the Roots, and give them convenient Watering, but not too much whereby to rot the Roots. Let the Pots be so placed to have the Morning Sun only, for that of the Afternoon doth more hurt than good; until mid April water in the Morning, and after [ 50] when the Sun grows hot, in the Evening; and the Pots with Flowers so soon as the Sun is gone off them.

The Fat and Richness of the Earth in Pots, is sooner waisted than in Beds, so that every Year there should be a new supply of fresh and good, by taking away as much of the old Earth, as you can without hurting the Roots, and putting in more i•• the room; and also take away those Roots that are killed by the Cold. [ 60]

When the Flowers begin to Spindle, nip off such that are smallest, leaving one or two of the big∣gest at each Root to bear Flowers, by which means the Flowers will be fairer.

From mid June to mid July is the best Season for laying Julyflowers, and if well watered, they will take Root in about six or eight Weeks, and be fit to remove if occasion requires; but the best Season to remove them is in March.

When the Flowers are Spinled, tye them to Sticks, and let all the Superfluous Buds be nipt off to make the Flower the fairer. When the Flowers begin to appear, open the Tops of the Pods a little, to give the Flower liberty to come forth. Those Pods that break through the larg∣ness of the Flower, may be neatly bound about with a Thread, or Wyre.

Your great care to preserve these tender Plants is in Winter, from Rains, Snows, pinching Frosts, and cold North and East Winds; therefore be provided with a Winter House, to set them in, as be∣fore advised; and in February and March when the Days are Fair and Warm, set them abroad a little to Ayr; and now and then a gentle shower of Rain to fall upon them, would much refresh them; but be sure to take them in at Nights; and in April you may set them abroad where they are to stand, filling up the Pots that want Earth, and cutting away the dead Leaves.

But those that have not the conveniency of a House, may place the Pots close to a South, or West Wall, where with Boards made Penthouse-wise, they may be defended from the aforesaid injuries of the winter Weather, which Boards may be to take off at Pleasure to Air them; And this way by some Florists is esteemed better than to put them in Houses.

Julyflowers or Cornations are also raised by Seed, for which observe these Directions; about October cut off the Stems with the Cods of those Flowers you design for Seed, which hang up in some dry upper Room until Spring, then rub out the Seed, and Sow it, which will bear in the Flower Season.

CLOVE JVLYFLOWERS.

THe Clove is a more hardy Flower, and will endure to grow in Beds well enough, but in the Snowy Frosty Weather shake off the Snow from them, and lay about the Roots some moushy Straw, which is a great preservative of them. They are encreased by Layers, as other Julyflow∣ers; but not by Seed.

PINKS.

THis Flower is of several sorts, and both single and double, the latter being the best; and of those the double Feathered Pink of Austria is of most esteem, being of different colours, but generally White and Reds. They are encreas∣ed by Slipings, and are most used to set on the edge of Borders, for which use is also the Mat∣ted Pink.

SWEET JOHNS, and SWEET WILLIAMS.

THese are of several sorts, and all bear many Flowers on one Head or Stalk; and of variety of Colours; but generally white and red, with a mixture of both. They Flower in June before Pinks; they are raised by Seeds, and the Slipings also will grow.

The double Sweet Johns, and the Velvet Wil∣liams are pretty Flowers.

Colombines.

THese are of many sorts, differing in Form as well as shape, being raised from Seeds; the double are of most esteem, and are general∣ly White, Blew, Murrey, Red or Purple, or a mixture of some of these. Those of most re∣pute [ 10] are the double inverted Colombines, the dou∣ble Rose, the Degenerate, and the Virginia Co∣lombine.

They Flower about the end of May, when Tu∣lips go out. The Seeds are Sown in Beds in April, and from thence Transplanted, so that it will be the next Year ere they bear Flowers, nor will they continue double well above three years without Degenerating, or turning single.

SNAP-DRAGON. [ 20]

THis is a common Flower, and chiefly differs in its colours; the best sorts are the white, the white Variegated, the red and the yellow Snap-Dragon.

THey are raised from Seeds, and bear Flow∣ers the second Year after Sowing; also the Slips taken off and ordered as the double Stock-Julyflowers, [ 30] will grow and bear Flowers.

FOX GLOVES.

THis Flower is of several sorts, as to the size and colour, the chief are the Dun colou∣red, the Orange Tauny, the great white, and the great Yellow Fox Glove. All which are raised by Seeds, and bear Flowers the second Year. [ 40]

Corn Flowers and Blew-Bottles.

This is a common Flower, and grows in Fields.

FLOWER GENTLE.

THis is of two sorts, the greater and the les∣ser, and of each many Diversities and Colours. They Flower in August, and are raised by Seeds as others are. [ 50]

SCABIONS.

THis Flower is of several sorts and Colours, the chief are the white Flower Scabion, th•• red Scabion of Austria, and the red Indian Scabion. They are raised by Seeds, and ordered as other such like Flowers.

LARKS HEELS. [ 60]

THis is as well double as single, being also of several sorts, and raised from Seeds usually sown in April, the chief sorts are the double upright Larks Heel, and the Indian Cresses, or yellow Larks Heel.

DOVBLE POPIES.

THis is a very common Flower, and almost in every Country Garden; it bears Flowers that are Red, Purple, Scarlet, Leadcolour, Blush or White, and one sort that is very small, with the Flowers very double, they Flower in June.

MARYGOLDS.

THis is a Flower of a great Encrease, and when once Sowed in a Ground, will pre∣serve it self being hardy to endure the cold Frosts, the Seed lying in the Ground all the Winter. There are several sorts, the chief of which are the Corn Marigold of Peru, called the Flower of the Sun, the double Garden Marygold, the Afri∣can or French Marygold, and the less double French or African Marygold.

BLEW BINDWEED, or the BELL-FLOWERS.

IT is so called by reason of the Flowers coming forth from the long Stalks, and for shape (when blown) resemble Bells, one sort being called Canterbury Bells.

Not much unlike these in the manner of grow∣ing is the Mervil of Peru, but the Flowers of different Colours; they are raised from Seeds Sown the beginning of April, in Hot Beds, and from thence Transplanted.

APLES of LOVE.

THese are received more for the beauty of the Aples, or Berries, than for their Flower; which are of a Yellow Colour.

GARDEN LVPINS.

THese are of four sorts, one with yellow Flowers, another with white, and two with blew; they bear Pease like Blossoms of a blew Colour; and are Sown in April.

Not much unlike these are the Scarlet Kidney Beans, which of late Years are very common in Gardens.

Thus having given you a Summary of the Flowers mentioned by Mr. Rea, with some short ac∣count thereof; In the next place, I shall observe the same Method in giving an abstract of Greens; refer∣ing the most curious Florists to the Book it self.

CHAP. VII.

Of Greens, to wit, Ever-Green Trees, that bear Flowers, Fruits, or Berries.

THe BAY-TREE is of several sorts, viz. the Common Bay-Tree, known to all;

the Bay-Cherry, growing about ten or twelve foot high, as it were with a thick Bush full of Boughs, adorned with bright shining green Leaves with whitish flowers, which are succeeded by small Cherries, black when ripe.

The Wild-Bay is most proper to spread against a Pale, or Wall; It beareth dark green Leaves, with great Tufts of small white flowers with Blush-edges on the Tops of the Branches, and hath also small blew Berries that succeed the [ 10] flowers.

The Rose Bay-Tree is of two sorts, the one bearing red flowers, and the other white, and both with small Stems.

The Indian-Bay seldom grows above four foot high, and hath a thick Bush well Leaved, with flowers of a greenish white, succeeded by Berries like small Olives: 'Tis a fine Plant, and by careful keeping in the Winter may be pre∣served; it is encreased (as most others are) by [ 20] Layers, every Slip having the great Leaves stript off, and set in March will grow.

The Wild-Bay of Portugal is much different from the former Wild-Bay, the Leaves being browner, and the Flowers inclining to purple, but the Berries are not unlike them.

The Cherry-Bay flowereth in May, the Wild-Bay in Winter; but most beautiful in March and April; the Rose-Bay, and Indian-Bay in July.

The ORANGE-TREES is a very tender [ 30] Plant in our Climate, and must be set in Cases, so that they may be Housed in the Winter, as other Greens must be; and by careful tendance it is of great Beauty, there being at one time flowers and fruit both green and ripe; but with us it is in its greatest Beauty in the Spring. Young Plants may be raised from the Kernels, set in rich Mould in Cases in March, and ten∣derly kept; they may also be grafted in the Bud. [ 40]

The STRAWBERRY-TREE is a slow grower, seldom exceeding five foot in height; the Leaves are Green, like the Bays, and on the End of the Branches grow the flowers with long Stalks, being little white Bottles like those of the Lily of the Valley, which are succeeded by red Berries, which are ripe in October and November; this Tree being then in its greatest Beauty.

This is a choice Plant to raise either from [ 50] Seed, or Layers; but being past their tender young Age, are hardy, and will grow very well under any warm Wall.

The MYRTLE-TREE is a very tender Plant, but by careful Housing may be preserved in our old Climate. There are several sorts; The Broad-leaved Myrtle groweth in a thick Bush about four or five foot high, full of Bran∣ches, with sweet and fine bright shining Leaves, with Flowers at the Joynts of the Branches. [ 60]

The Lesser-leaved Myrtle groweth like the former, but not so high.

The Box-leaved Myrtle differeth only but in the Leaves, which are like to those of Box.

The Double-flowered Myrtle differeth not from the Broad-leaved Myrtle, only it is not so large and tall; and the Flowers are white, very thick, and double, and of a delicate sweet Scent.

The Great Spanish Laurel-leaved Myrtle is larger than any of the former; the Leaves are of a whitish Green, and for flowers and fruit little differing from those of the Broad-leaved Myrtle.

The sweet Indian yellow JESSAMIN is not above two foot high, adorned with fair, shining Dark-green Leaves, with fair yellow Flowers of a sweet Scent, like unto the white Jessamin.

The Variegated, or Striped PHILLIREA is a curious Plant, far exceeding the ordinary ones, used for Ever-green Hedges: It will grow to the height of a Man, and thick with small Branches, and Leaves, edged or striped vvith white.

These and the like Greens must be set in Cases, or Boxes, and carefully Housed in your Con∣servatory at the approach of the cold Winter; but at first set them in only in the Nights, and about March, when the Frosts are past, open the Doors, to give them Sun and Air to refresh them; and about the end of April set them out, washing them clean from the Dust and Cob-Webs, which they did contract in the House. In the hot Season cover the Earth with Moss, to keep it moist, watering them as occasion requires; and whilst they are in the House forget not to Water them gently, especially in November, and after long Frosts; but let not the Water touch the Leaves.

Also every Spring and Autumn, that is, before the setting the Plants forth and Housing them, you take some Earth out of the Cases, opening the rest with a Fork, or Tool, not hurt∣ing the tender Roots, supplying the place thereof with good rich Mould, that is one part Earth, and two parts rotten Dung.

The Layers of the hardiest Greens are to be transplanted about Mid March, and the more tender about the end of April: Let the Earth be very rich and fine sifted before it is put into the Cases for the setting the Layers; and at the bottom of the Cases put some small Stones, pieces of Brick, or the like, to draw away the Moisture from the Earth, which will else pre∣judice the Roots; and set not the Plants too deep in the Earth: When they are set, water them, and keep them sheltred from the Sun and Wind until they have taken Root, which will be about a Fortnight, and after that they may stand in the Air and Weather.

CHAP. VIII.

Of Flower-Bearing Trees, and Shrubs, that fall their Leaves in Winter, and renew them again in the Spring. [ 10]

THe Double-Flowered CHERRY is in all parts like the common English Cherry-Tree, only in the Flowers, which in this are large, thick and double; of a fine white Colour, many growing together, which fall off without bearing Fruit.

There is another Double-Blossom'd Cherry, cal∣led in France Merisziere, of the common Black-Cherry, [ 20] that beareth a large double flower, as big as the lesser Double white Rose.

The Double-flowered PEACH-TREE is not much unlike the common Peach-Tree, on∣ly its Flowers, which are double, consisting of three or more rows of Leaves of a redish Blush-colour.

The Double-Blossom'd Wild POMGRANATE-TREE groweth, if pruned up, about seven foot high; otherwise is a thick Bush full of small [ 30] Branches with some Thorns thereon, and many shining green Leaves, and at the sides and ends of the Branches come forth divers hard, hollow and reddish Cups, and out of them beautiful Flowers of a bright Crimson colour as big as Province Roses.

The Double White PIPE-TREE, or JAS∣MINE of Arabia, is a rare but tender Shrub, having divers long, slender, yet stiff Branches, whereon grow fair long Leaves of a fresh green [ 40] colour, two standing at one Joynt one against another, and at the ends of the Branches shoot forth divers Flowers, each in an Hose, like those of the common white Jasmine, and of an excel∣lent scent.

The PERSIAN JASMINE comes up with many small Woody Branches, bedeck'd vvith fine small Leaves, and purplish blew Flow∣ers, of a sweet scent.

The Tree of PARADICE of a dark yel∣lowish [ 50] Colour, set vvith long whitish green Leaves, bearing along the Branches divers small Flowers of a greenish yellow.

The Tree of NIGHT-SHADE is about a Yard high, vvith a Woody Stem, vvith many green Branches, beset vvith small long Leaves, and at the Joynts thereof it putteth forth two or three Flowers together of a Star-like form, and upon the decay of the Flowers come small green Berries, that in December are red. [ 60]

The Shrub SPIRAEA riseth up with divers Woody-stalks about a Yard high, and at the Tops of the Stalks come forth divers pale Peach-coloured Flowers thick set together. It flowereth in August, endures the Winter, and is encreased by Layers.

WOODY St. JOHN's-WORT groweth about a Yard high, is beset at certain distances vvith Tufts of small green Leaves, and amongst them many small vvhite Flowers vvith purple in the midst. It flowereth in and about the end of April, is hardy, and is encreased by Lay∣ers.

The MIZERION, or Dwarf-Bay, groweth in a thick Bush full of Branches, with Leaves and small Flowers growing thick together; some of a pale blush Colour, others of a white, and others of a red; and vvhen these fall off, small Berries come forth, vvhich vvhen ripe are red. These Blossoms begin about the end of January, and continue till the end of March. It is an hardy Plant, is raised by sowing the Berries, vvhich lye long in the Ground, not coming up till the next Spring, and the Year following may be transplanted.

ROSE-TREES.

THere are divers excellent sorts of ROSES, vvhich former Ages vvere Strangers unto. An Account thereof is as followeth:

The English Red Rose, common to all; the Rose of the World, of a pale Blush vvith red Spots; the Hungarian Rose, vvhich is of a paler red than the common Rose, and hath many faint Spots in the Leaves; the Red Province Rose, vvhich hath its Flowers large, thick, and double, vvith no great Scent; the Red Belgick Rose, of a fine deep Red, vvith the Flowers very thick and double; the Dwarf Red Rose, called by some the July Flower Rose, vvhich grows low, vvith the Flowers thick but small, and is of a pleasant Car∣nation Colour, and vvell scented; the double Vel∣vet Rose, vvhich hath two or three rows of Leaves of a dark Velvet-red Colour; the Marble Rose, much of the nature of the Velvet Rose, as to its growing; but different in Flower, vvhich is larger, more double, and of a lighter Red; the Rose vvithout Thorns, or the Virgin Rose, much like the Marble Rose, only vvithout Thorns, and the Flowers are not so thick and double, and of a pale Colour; the Frankford Rose, vvhich hath large thick vvhitish green Leaves, vvith the Flow∣ers very thick and double, which are of a blewish red, and very strong Scented; the Ci∣namon Rose which is very early, coming in May; it is but small, and of a pale red; the Da∣mask Rose well known to all, none being so common nor of so much use, especially for ma∣king Rose-Water; the party Coloured Damask Rose commonly called York and Lancaster, differeth in that the Flowers are parted and marked with a pale blush, inclining to a white upon the Da∣mask Colour; the Christal Rose little differeth from the York and Lancaster only 'tis better mar∣ked; the Damask province Rose is very large, thick and double, and of a deeper blush; the Monthly Rose, much like the Damask Rose, but not so sweet, it commonly bears three times a year, viz. in June, about mid August, and about the end of September; the Blush Belgick Rose, or the white Province as being of a pale blush. Thus much for Red Roses.

The Single Yellow Rose, by some Florists esteem∣ed

but a wild Rose; The Scarlet Rose of Austria groweth much like the former, with single Flow∣ers, which within are Scarlet, and without side of a pa••e Brimstone Colour. The double yellow Rose hath its Flowers of a pale yellow, and grows some∣thing like the Damask Province Rose.

The common white Rose is of two sorts, the one double, the other single, and both well known.

The Blush-Rose differs nothing from the White but in Colour, which is a very pale Blush. [ 10]

The double Musk-Rose hath its Flowers, that come forth on long foot Stalks at the End of the Branches many together in a Tuft, not very double, and of a whitish Colour and strong Scent∣ed; They Flower in August.

The Ever-green-Rose, so called by reason the Leaves fall not off in the Winter, but stay on un∣til thrusted off at the Spring by the new.

The Great Apple-Rose hath a great Stock, and many Branches, with the Flowers small and sin∣gle, [ 20] standing on prickly Bottoms, which after the Flowers are fallen, grow great, red, and of the fashion of a Pear.

Mr. Rea saith, that Roses are increased by lay∣ing of Layers, that is, the Branches put in the Earth with good rotten Dung about them to grow the faster; or by Inoculating the Buds of them in other Stocks; and the best Stocks are those of the Damask, the white and the Franckford; and about Midsummer, or when good Buds can be got. [ 30] The Stocks of Budded Roses must be carefully kept from Suckers. But the best Stocks for the Musk and Yellow-Rose, and all those double and Centiple-Roses are the sweet Brier.

When the Roses have done bearing, the Tops should be cut with your Garden-Shears some∣thing neer, and three or four days after the change of the Moon, and then they will bear again about Michaelmass; and towards the Spring each Branch should be cut again with a Pruning-Knife close to [ 40] the Leaf-Bud, and what is dead or superfluous should be taken away.

JASMINES, HONISVCKLES, and some other woody Flower-bearing Trees.

JAsmines are of several sorts, the white Jasmine sufficiently well known and much esteemed for its pleasant Scent; The Catalonian or Spanish Jasmine, hath its flowers much larger than the [ 50] former, and sweeter, with Blush••coloured Edges: The double Spanish Jasmine much like the first, but the Flowers double; The Yellow-Jasmine is a great encreaser, bearing small long hollow Flow∣ers. The Indian Scarlet-Jasmine hath its Flowers, that come forth at the ends of the Branches many together, which are of a deep Scarlet, veined with small yellow Lines.

The double Honisuckle is so common, that e∣very one knows it, nevertheless it is to be esteem∣ed, [ 60] for its sweet Flowers. The Italian Honi-Suckle is a very great spreader and bearer, but not of so sweet a scent.

Virgins-Bowe•• is much of the nature of the Honisuckle; The Flowers are some Red, and o∣thers Purple; some double, and others single.

Bastard-Dittany is a small Woody Plant that grows not above two foot high; It is of several sorts, some beareth a reddish Flower; some a white and some an Ash-colour Flower, they are all strong scented.

The Cistus is also a small Woody Plant, and is of two sorts, the Male Cistus, and the Gum Cistus, which is the biggest and greatest spreader. This is a tender Plant not enduring the cold Winter, which the Dittany will.

Other Flower-bearing Trees, and Shrubs.

THe Horse Chesnut, of some esteem for its beautiful fair green Leaves, as also for its Flowers in May.

JVDASTREE hath its Flowers before its Leaves, three or four standing together like Pease-Blossoms, of a fine purplish bright red, which are succeeded by long flat•• Cods; This is apt to put forth Suckers, by which as also by Layers 'tis en∣creased; It seldom grows above six foot high.

BEAN TREFOILE is of two sorts, the greater and the lesser, and both put forth yellow Flowers, much like those of Broom, but lesser and pailer, which are succeeded by flat thin Cods.

The great Bastard Sena•• with Bladders, hath its Flowers in May, much like those of Broom, af∣ter which appear clear thin and transparent Blad∣ders with black Seeds.

Spanish Broom puts forth its Flowers towards the top of the Branches in May, which are much like the common Broom, but larger, and the Cods are long and small. There is another kind that bears white Flowers.

The BLADDER NVT, if pruned up, and kept from Suckers, will grow to about six foot high; its Flowers are white and sweet, many hanging down on a long Stalk: after them green∣ish Bladders, each containing one smooth small Nut with a green Kernal; the Leaves are like those of Elder. It is encreased by Suckers.

The GILDER, or GILDERLAND ROSE; is a pretty larg spreading Tree, at the top of the young Branches comes forth a round Ball of many single white Flowers close set together. It is a hardy Plant, and is encreased by Suckers.

The SPRINGA, or PIPETREE is of several sorts, but none very tall; the chief differ∣ence is in the Flowers, one putting forth blew Flowers, another white, and another a kind of a fair Purple Flower, at the end of the small Bran∣ches many together.

CHRISTSTHORN groweth about five or six foot high, hath many slender Branches, set with broad and round Leaves veined, also thick set together on a long Stalk; This is that with which our Saviour was said to be crowned. It is encreased by Layers.

The MYRTLE••LEAVED SVMACH riseth from the Root yearly, with many small Branches about four or five foot high, and at the top of the Branches come forth divers Flowers, which are succeeded by small black Berries.

The LARCH TREE is a very slow grower, and not common; beareth amongst its green Leaves beautiful Crimson coloured Flowers, very pleasant to behold.

[illustration]

POMONA

To the R^t. Worshipfull S^r. Robert Clayton of •• Harden in Surry and of the Citty of London▪ Knight and Lord Major there of Anno ••680.

This Plate is humbly dedicated by Richard Blome

I shall conclude this Chapter with some E∣ver-Green Trees worth the taking notice of.

EVERGREEN TREES.

The CYPRESS TREE groweth pyramidi∣cal, and is much used in Gardens; 'tis propt up by a Pole which runs up in the midst, to which it is bound about with Wyer, but being a Tree so common, is known to all. [ 10]

The TREE of LIFE is a slow grower, yet hath many hanging-down Branches, on the tops of which in May are small downy yellowish Flow∣ers with standing small scaly heads. This Plant is encreased by Layers.

The EVERGREEN OAK is of a slow growth, and not very large; It beareth small Mossy yellowish Flowers in the Spring, and in some places small blackish Acorns. This is encreased by Layers. [ 20]

HOLLY is common every where, but there is a sort that hath Green shining Leaves, vario∣ly marked with a yellowish Colour.

BOX is of several Sorts, the common English sort is known to all; the Gilded Box, whose Leaves are edged with yellow, and the Dwarf Box, which is much smaller than the former; and of this there is a gilded kind esteemed the best of all. All Sorts are easily raised; for every Slip set in March will take root and grow. [ 30]

PYRACANTHA, or the Ever-green Haw∣thorn, if permitted to grow, will be about six foot high, full of Branches, beset with Leaves snipt about the Edges, and long sharp Thorns; The Flowers come forth in the Spring in Cluster, to∣gether, as the Berries are that succeed, being of a bright red: It is encreased by Suckers, Layers, and by sowing the Berries like as you do Haws. This Green with Phyllirea or Privet, makes a very good Ever-green Hedge. [ 40]

The STAFF TREE is a small grower, and bears on a little Stalk four or five yellowish green Flowers, which turn into small Berries, like Black Cherries; 'tis of chief use for Hedges mixt with Pyracantha, and is encreased by Layers.

The Ever-Green PRIVE•• groweth low in a thick Bush full of Branches, and Leaves; the Flowers come forth many of them together at the Joynts, being small and white, which are succeed∣ed by little Black Berries.

PHYLLIREA or Mock Privet is of seve∣ral Sorts, and all very good; the Flowers which are many together, are of a Greenish yellow, after which come small black Berries. [ 50]

This Green, as also the Ever Green-Privet is excellent for Hedges in Gardens, by reason they may be cut, and brought to carry to any Form by the Garden shears, and so kept in any compass by Laths or Rods.

The LAWREL and the BAY are very com∣mon, [ 60] and well known, and much used for several occasions, the former being of much esteem for the adornment of Houses. They grow best a∣gainst the sides of Pales, or a Wall, or a House, and in the Shade.

CHAP. IX.

Of FRVIT-TREES, and how to propagate and manage them, as to Planting, Grafting, Inoculating, Pruning, &c. with an Account of each sort of Fruit.

THere is no greater Improvement to be made on Ground, than the planting it with Fruit Trees, especially if rightly ordered, and good sorts of Fruits made choise of, which for the ge∣nerality should be those that are durable, and will keep the Winter Season: and also such that are most fit to make Cider and Perry of▪ The charges and trouble of planting is inconsiderable to the great profit accrewing thereby. But the Rustick People will not easily be perswaded to go out of their old way, nor be at one Peny charge in expectation of a future Gain; Therefore it were to be wished that when any Landlord lets a Lease of any Ground, he would tie the Tenant by Covenant strictly to plant such a quantity of Fruit Trees on the Premises every Year in his Hedg Rows, or such like vacant places that will be no way prejudicial to the management of his Crops, were it but four Trees to an Acre, which is but an inconsiderable charge; and they are easily preserved from the Injury of Cattle by bushing or railing them about, which may be done by his own hands at spare Hours. But to proceed to the ordering and Raising them.

How to propagate Fruit-Trees.

DIvers ways may be used for the raising of Fruit-Trees, as by Grafting, Inoculating, or Budding; also by Layers, Suckers, and Slips; and likewise from the Seed, Nut or Kernel.

GRAFTING.

THe Art of Grafting, as also Innoculating doth preserve the Species of the most curious Fruits, and meliorates their Gusts or Tasts; for Fruits that are raised from the Kernels do produce most commonly a kind of wild Fruit ••ngrateful to the Palate, participating of the wildness of the Stock, on which the Tree was Grafted.

Sometimes Apples, and Pears may happen to be good, being raised from the Kernel; but for Cher∣ries, Plumbs, Aprecocks, Peaches, &c. produ∣ced from the Stone, or Kernel, unless Grafted, or Inoculated▪ are esteemed but of small value.

Things to be observed in Grafting.

YOur first business is to be provided with Stocks, which must be according to the na∣ture of the Tree, you intend to Graft; for Apples

the Crab stock is the best; also Stocks raised from every sower Fruit may do, for they bear the best, and soundest Fruit, and the Tree will be the larger, and grow freer from the Canker.

If you would have Dwarf Trees, make choise of the Paradise Apple, either raised from the Ker∣nels, or Layers, for the Branches are as apt to take Root as those of Codlins; But by reason the Paradice Apple is a slow grower, you may graft the Cyon thereof on a Crabstock close to the Ground, [ 10] and when it is grown to the bigness of ones Fin∣ger, graft about eight Inches higher thereon, such Fruit as you would have, which will quicken the growth of the Paradice Apple, and cause the Fruit to be better.

PEARS are to be grafted on Stocks raised from the Kernel, the White Thorn commonly u∣sed is not good.

PLVMS are to be Grafted on Plum Stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones, of which [ 20] sort the great white Pear-plum is esteemed the best; and indeed any that have very large Leaves and Shoots, are good either to Graft any choise Plums upon, or for the Budding of Peaches and Aprecocks.

CHERRIES are best to be Grafted on black Cherry Stocks; but Stocks of a better Nature may be raised from the Stones of the Black-Heart, the Duke, the Amber, and the Morello-Cherries. For the Grafting the May and Early Cherries, the [ 30] Stocks of the common English Cherry is said to be the best, but it is not so good for a Wall as the Morello, or other sorts, as growing too high.

MEDLERS are best to be Grafted on Pear-Stocks.

QVINCES are raised by Cuttings, or Suckers, which being set in good Earth, and kept watered if the Season proves dry, will not fail to grow; and when they have taken Root in Winter, remove them into your Nursery; and in a Year or two [ 40] they will be fit to Graft Pears on for Wall-Fruit, being esteemed better than Pearstocks, as not grow∣ing so high.

APRICOCKS, PEACHES and NECTE∣RINES are usually Innoculated in Plum-stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones; and those of the white Pear-plum, as aforesaid is the best, as also for Budding of Apricocks, and Peaches; but for the Necterine a Pear-stock is most pro∣per.

GOOSBERRIES and CVRRANS, as also Ser∣vices [ 50] are Innoculated on their own kind.

FILBERTS are raised from Nuts of their own kind, the like are Walnuts.

For the raising Stocks.

BBeing provided with what quantity of Stones and Kernels you design to Sow about October (being then a good Season) let there be a Bed [ 60] of Earth well prepared and dressed, and therein Sow the Kernels of Crabs or such like Apples, and cover them with fine Mould sifted over two or three fingers thick. And for Fruitstones you may prick them down in Rows two or three Fin∣gers deep, with the sharp ends downwards; and in the Winter cover the Beds over with long Dung to preserve them from the cold Frosts, which when the Weather grows warm, as about April, must be taken off. You must keep them clean from Weeds, and in two Years they will be fit to remove into other Beds, to be Planted at greater distances for the conveniency of Grafting.

Cherry-stones are to be Sown, and ordered as Apple kernels: But before you Transplant any of these Stocks, you must cut off such Roots as run down, as also the Tops and side Branches, placing them in Rows, closing well the Earth about them; and be sure to set each kind apart, for the knowing what Fruit it is. When they are grown to a sufficient bigness, of about an Inch in Diameter, they may be fit to Graft in the Cleft; and set not the Roots too deep, as being more Troublesom to remove.

Crab, or Apple-stocks thus raised, are better than those that come from the Wood, or any other ways.

The Nursery thus set, may be ready after one Year to Innoculate, and after two or three Years to Graft.

Trees Grafted on a Gennet Moyl, or Ciderstock, preserve best the tast of a delicate Apple, especi∣ally the Pippin; but on a Crabstock the Tree lasts longer, and hath a more tart palatable relish; the same Rule may be observed in the choise of Stocks for Pears, Plums, Cherries, Aprecocks, &c. for the more Acid the Stocks are, the more life it gives the Fruit.

Although the Fruit doth generally take after the Graft, yet it is somwhat altered by the Stock, either for the better or worse.

The Pear Grafted on a Quince-stock, produceth its Fruit better than the same kind upon a wild Pear-stock, and fairer, much better coloured; and causeth the Trees to bear sooner, and more Fruit.

The Soyl of the Ground designed for the Nur∣sery, ought to be considered, which should be a light Mould, not too rich, nor too barren, and that which lyeth warm, will cause the Stocks to thrive the better.

Gather your Grafts of Plums, Pears, and Cherries from mid January, to mid February, but those of Apples may continue till March.

Choose such as are of two Saps, that the old Wood to the knot may be placed in the Stock; those of one Years Shoot will serve in default of the other; but such will be longer before they come to bear. Make choise of such Grafts that are strongest, and from such Branches that are fullest of Fruit Buds, and aptest to bear; and bind every sort of Graft in bundles by it self, with the Name of the Fruit writ on a Parchment L••bel, lest you should forget the sort; and for your greater care a Book should be kept, where each sort is entred down. These Grafts should be put in the Earth by themselves about half ways, for preserving them fresh until you shall use them.

Grafting is an Artificial placing the Cyon, or Graft of one kind upon the Stock of another, so as the Sap of the Stock may without Impedi∣ment come to nourish the Graft. It is therefore necessary (the Sap passing betwixt the Bark and

the Wood) that they be exactly joyned, and well bound together, which may be thus done.

The time and Manner of Grafting.

THe best time to Graft is in February, and March, but forward Fruits may be Graf∣ted in January; and some backward Fruits in the beginning of April, provided the Spring be not [ 10] too forward; for the Temperature of the Sea∣son doth very much conduce to the growth or proof of the Graft, as mild Weather in Decem∣ber, or January may be better than Frosty Wea∣ther in February; and indeed such kind of Wea∣ther is not fit to Graft in.

Grafts of any kind being cut before they be∣gin to Spring, may be kept many Days; and carryed a good distance, being bound up in bun∣dles in Moss, and the ends wrapt up in Clay, or [ 02] Stuck in a Turnip; and although they are a little withered, yet they will prove not the worse.

Having your Stocks or Grafts in readiness, as also all your Tools and Materials, as the Pru∣ning-Knife, Pen-Knife, a fine Saw, a Mallet and a Wedge, also Rushes, strong soft Flags, or Wool∣len Yarn to bind the Graft and Stock together; and Clay well tempered with Hors-Dung, to keep it from Choping in dry Weather, or soft Wax for smaller Trees, you may proceed to your work, [ 30] which may be performed several ways.

The first and most usual is Grafting in the Cleft, especially for the middle sized Stocks, and after this manner; First saw of the Head of the Stock in a smooth place, which for Wall or Dwarf Trees should be within four Fingers of the Ground, and for Standards much higher according to the growth of the Stock; then pare away with your Knife the Roughness that the Saw hath left on the Head of the Stock, which done, cleave the Head a [ 40] little besides the Pith, and put therein a long Wedge of hard Wood to keep the Cleft open; which cut smooth with the point of your Knife, that the sides may be even; then cut the Graft on both sides from some Knot or Bud in form of a Wedge, in length proportionable to the Cleft with shouldrings; which Graft being so cut, place exactly in the Cleft, that the inward Bark of the Cyon may closely joyn to the inward part of the Rind, or Bark of the Stock, in which lyes the [ 50] principal skill of the Grafter; then draw out the Wedge: But if the Stock pinch hard, lest it should endanger the dividing the Rind of the Graft from the Wood, to the spoiling the Graft, let the inward side of the Graft that is within the Wood of the Stock be left the thicker, that so the Woody part of the Graft may bear the Stress; or there may be a small Wedge left to keep it from pinching the Graft too hard; and likewise leave the outside of the Graft a little the thicker; and in this business great care is required. The Graft [ 60] being thus fixed into the Stock, your next and last business is to cover the Head of the Stock, with the Tempered Clay or soft Wax for the small Grafts, and leave not the Grafts too long.

There is another way of Grafting much like the former, which is Grafting in the Bark or Rind of the greater Stocks, and differs only in this, that where you cleave the Stocks and fasten the Grafts within the Cleft in the other way, here with a small Wedge made of Ivory, Box, or some hard Wood cut Taperwise, with a thin point you force into the Stock between the Rind and the Wood after the Head thereof is sawn off, and the roughness pared away. Then take the Graft, and at the shoulder or grossest part thereof, cut it round with your small Grafting-Knife; and take off the Rind wholly downwards, preser∣ving as much of the inward Rind as you can; then cut the Wood of the Graft about an Inch in length, and take away half thereof to the Pith, and the other half Taper it away, and set in the place you made with your Wedge, be∣tween the Bark of the Stock and the Wood, that the shouldring of the Graft may joyn close to the Bark, or Rind of the Stock, and then cover it with Clay, as before directed. This way is best to be used when the Stock is too big to be cleft, and where the Bark, or Rind is thick; and here you may set into one Stock many Grafts, and that of several sorts, if you so think fit.

Your great care must be to keep the Top of the Stocks close covered for some time, until the Bark it self hath covered it; for otherwise the Rain will Rot the Stock. And do not leave the Grafts above four or five Inches above the Stocks, for if too long, they draw more feeble, and are more exposed to the injuries of the Weather, nei∣ther do they prosper so well. And observe to Graft your Cyons on the side of the Stock, that may receive the least damage from the South-west wind, so that it may blow into the Stock, and not from it.

There is another way of Grafting, called Shoul∣der, or WHIP-GRAFTING fit only for small Stocks, and to be performed somwhat la∣ter than the former; and this may be done two several ways; first by cutting off the Head of the Stock, and smooth it as in Cleft-Grafting; then cut the Graft from a Knot, or Bud on one side slo∣ping, about one Inch and a half long, with a shouldring smooth and even sloping by Degrees▪ that the lower end may be left thin; place the shouldring of the Graft upon the Head of the Stock, and mark the length of the cut part of the Graft; and with your Knife cut away so much of the Bark, as the cut side of the Graft did cover, but touch not the Wood of the Stock; then place both together, that their Saps may exactly joyn; then bind them together with your Rushes, Flags, or Yarn, and cover the Heads over with Clay, as afore directed.

The other way of Whip-Grafting, is where the Grafts and Stocks are of an equal size, the Stock must be cut sloping upwards from the one side to the other; and the Graft after the same manner from the shoulder downwards, that the Graft may exactly joyn with the Stock in every part; which done, bind them about with your Flags or Rushes, and put Clay about them as a∣foresaid.

This way of Whip-Grafting is esteemed better than Grafting in the Cleft, and for these Reasons, 1. This way requires smaller Stocks; 2. It is less

injurious to the Stock and Graft; 3. The Wound is sooner healed, and is better defended from the injuries of the Weather; and 4. It is more easy to learn, and to be performed.

There is another way of Grafting called Graf∣ting by Approach, or Ablactation, and this is done in April, sooner or later according to the State of the Spring. It is to be performed where the Stock you intend to Graft on, and the Tree from which you take your Graft or Cyon, stand so [ 10] near together that they may be conjoyned; then take the Sprig or Branch you intend to Graft, and pare away about three Inches in length of the Rind, and Wood near the Pith; cut also the Stock or Branch on which you intend to Graft after the same manner, that they may joyn exactly together, and that the Sap may meet; and so bind them about, and cover them with Clay, as aforesaid.

So soon as you perceive the Graft and Stock to [ 20] unite and incorporate together, cut off the Head of the Stocks, hitherto left on, about four Inches above the binding, and in March following the remaining stub also together with the Graft or Cyon underneath, close to the grafted place, that it may only subsist by the Stock.

Some use to cut off the Head of the Stock at first, then joyn the Cyon thereunto, after the man∣ner of Shoulder-Grafting, differing only in not severing the Cyon from its own Stock; both ways [ 30] are good, but the first most successful.

This manner of Grafting is chiefly used in such nice and tender Plants, as are not apt to take any other way, as Lemmons, Oranges, Pomegranets, Vines, Jessamines, and the like.

You must remember that those Grafts that are bound you must unbind about Midsummer, otherwise the Band will injure them.

There is a new way of Grafting, which is thus done; Take a Graft or Sprig of a Tree you de∣sign [ 40] to propagate, and a small piece of the Root of another Tree of the same kind, or very near it, and Whip-Graft them together, and bind them well, and plant it where you intend it shall stand, or else in your Nursery, which piece of Root will draw sap and feed the Graft, as doth the Stock after the other ways.

Be sure to untie the two But-Ends of the Graft and the Root, and that the Rind of the Root joyn to the Rind of the Graft. By this means the [ 50] Roots of one Crab or Apple-Stock may serve for twenty or thirty Apple Grafts. In like manner you may do for Cherries, Pears, or Plums.

And thus you may raise a Nursery of Fruit-Trees instead of Stocks; and it is esteemed better for the raising of Tender Trees, that will hardly endure the Grafting in the Stock; for here they are not exposed to the injury of the Sun, Wind, or Rain; Also Trees, thus Grafted will bear soon∣er, and the better for Dwarf-Trees. [ 60]

This way is easily performed, and may be done in great quantities in a little time within Doors, and then planted in the Nursery in Rows and Beds, as you do your Stocks.

Of INNOCVLATING, or BVDDING.

THis way of Innoculating, or Budding is by many preferred before Grafting, by which means several sorts of delicate Fruits are propa∣gated and meliorated, which cannot be done by Grafting in the Root; as the Peach, Aprecock or Nectarine rarely thrive any other way than this, because few Stocks can feed the Graft with Sap so early in the Spring as the Graft requires; but be∣ing rightly Innoculated in the fulness of the Sap seldome fails.

The Stocks to Innoculate on are to be the same kinds, as directed to Graft on, but the Peach takes best on its own kind, and the Ne∣ctarine on a Peach Stock.

The best time for this business is from Mid∣summer to mid July, when the Sap is strongest in the Stock, and bark easiest to be raised, and tis best to be done in a dry Season, and in the Evening, for Rain is very pernitious to the Buds; also the Buds must not be too young nor tender, but sufficiently grown. Those of the Aprecock are the soonest ready, and must be taken from strong and well grown Shoots of the same Year.

The Tools, or Instruments required in this cu∣rious Art are the sharp pointed Penk-nife, a Quill cut half away and made sharp and smooth at the end, to divide the Bud and Rind from the Stalk, and Woollen Yarn, Flags, or the like to bind them with all.

Having your Instruments and Buds in readiness, you may proceed to your Work after this man∣ner, on some part of the Stock, either near or further from the Ground, according as you in∣tend it, either for a Wall, Dwarf Tree, or Stand∣ard, and from the middle thereof gently Slit the Bark, or Rind, about an Inch long in form of a T, not wounding the Stock; then nimbly pre∣pare the Bud by cutting off the Leaf, and leave on∣ly the Tayl, about half an Inch from the Bud; then Slit the Bark, on each side the Bud, a little dist∣ance from the Bud, and take away the Bark, a∣bove and below the Bud, like a Sheild, that it may the more easily go down, and unite be∣tween the Bark, and the Stock; then with your Quill dexterously take off the Bark and Bud, that you leave not the Root behind; for if you see a Hole under the Bud on the inside, the Root is gon; cast it away, and prepare another. When your Bud is ready, raise the Bark of the Stock on each side in the Slit (preserving as carefully as you can the inner thin Rind of the Stolk) put in with care the Bud between the Bark and the Stock, thrusting it down until the top joyn to the cross Cut, then bind it close with your Yarn, or Flags, but not on the Bud it self.

There is another way of Innoculating which is more easy, and successful than the former, from which it differs only that the Bark is Slit upwards, from the cross Cut, and the Bud put upwards, leaving the lower end longer than may serve, and when it is in its place, cut off that which is superfluous, and joyn the Bark of the Bud to the Bark of the Stock, and bind it as before direct∣ed.

There is also another way, which is to cut the Edges of the Bark about the Bud Square, and cut the Bark of the Stock fit to receive it binding it fast, and this is a sure and easy way.

About three Weeks, or a Month after Innoculat∣ing unbind the Buds, and in the unbinding them you may see which are good by their lively ap∣pearance. In March following cut off the Stock about three Fingers above the Bud, and the next year cut it close, that the Bud may cover the Stock [ 10] as Grafts usually do.

Fruits raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts, and Kernels.

SUch Fruits that are raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts and Kernels, are Almonds, Services, Chesnuts, Walnuts, Filberts and common Nuts; likewise Oranges and Lemmons; all which are to [ 20] be sown in Beds, and from thence transplanted into your Nursery at convenient distance, where they are to stand until fit to be transplant∣ed.

The best way to raise WALLNVT-TREES is from the Nut; which from the time of gather∣ing you may keep in a Bed of Sand, or Earth, until March, and then plant them; and if you can, in the places where you intend they shall grow, (for transplanting them doth much check [ 30] their growth). You must have a great care to pre∣serve them from Mice which are great destroyers of them.

FILBERTS and NVTS are raised also from the Nut the same way as Wall-Nuts; the like are Chesnuts, &c.

Fruits raised by Layers, Slips and Suck∣ers. [ 40]

THere are several sorts of Fruit Trees raised with more ease from Layers, Slips and Suckers than by Grafting, Innoculating, or from Seed, and such are Vines, Figs, Malberies, Bar∣beries, Currans, Rasberys, Goosberys, Quinces, Cod∣lins, Gennet-Moyls, &c.

For VINES any shoot of the last Year (es∣pecially if a short piece of the former Years groweth be cut with it) will grow, being laid in [ 50] February about a foot and a half within the Ground long-ways, and not above two or three Buds at the most out of the Ground; but you must be very careful to keep them watered in the heat of the Summer.

The FIG-TREE yields Suckers, which is the usual way to encrease them.

The MVLBERRY-TREE is very diffi∣cult to raise; 'tis best thus done. Cut a Bough off, as big as a Mans Arm, which cut into pieces [ 60] about a Yard long, and lay into the Ground (that is rich) about a Foot deep, with one end a∣bout a handful broad out of the Ground, and af∣ter a Year or two being kept watered in a dry Summer Season, divers young Sprigs may be drawn with Roots fit to transplant, and the old Roots will yet send out more.

The BARBERY Tree is raised from Suckers laid into good Earth, as before directed.

RASBERRYS, GOOSBERRYS and CVRRANS are also raised from Suckers, be∣ing all great encreasers.

The CODLIN, as also the GENNET∣MOIL are easily raised by Suckers, and Slips, being apt to thrive in any Ground, but that which is moist is best agreable with their nature.

QVINCES, like unto Codlins, are easily propagated from Suckers, which being set in any moist place, will soon draw Root.

Of Transplanting Trees.

THe best Season to Transplant and set Trees is from Mid••October to the end of January, if the Weather be open; and if the Spring is not too forward in February.

In taking them up out of your Nursery be care∣ful that the Roots be not cut, or broken, especially the Spreading Roots, and let the Roots be left lon∣ger than the Heads, and the more vvays they Spread, the better; but such Roots as run down∣vvards may be taken off; likewise the ends of those that you find too long, as also most of the small Threads vvhere they grovv too thick: you must likewise prune as vvell the Branches as the Roots.

The Ground being prepared vvhere the Trees are to be set, raise a small Hill in the Center of each Hole, vvhich should be vvide made, and thereon set the Tree, opening and spreading the Roots round about it, and cover them vvith the best Earth, and shake the Tree, that the Roots lie not hollovv, treading it dovvn to fasten them.

Plant not too deep, especially in such Ground that is clayish, over-moist or spewy; as also Gra∣velly, or Chalky; but as near the surface as you can, or above it, raising the Earth about the Tree; which vvay one Sr. Josias Child or Wanstead in Essex a great Planter hath observed (to the admiration of Beholders) his Ground lying upon a Gravel; for if Trees are too deep planted, they generally pine away.

It is very necessary to be observed that the Ground vvhere you plant your Trees should be of a richer, and higher Mould than the Nursery from vvhence you take them; otherwise they vvill not thrive so vvell. It is also a great check to take them out of a warm Nursery and trans¦plant them in an open vvide Field free from shelter.

As near as you can, choose young thriving Trees, rather than those that are large, for an Orchard of such young ones vvill soon overtake one planted vvith larger Trees at the same time.

The Mode of planting is novv upon a Square, so that you have a Row, look vvhich vvay you vvill; and for distance thirty or forty foot is very vvell, for then you may make some benefit of the under Ground, either by Grass or Tillage, Likevvise the Trees vvill have more benefit of the Sun and Air than vvhen planted to near or irregu∣lar, and by consequence vvill thrive the bet∣ter, and the Fruit vvill be the fairer and better tasted.

You may set your Apple Trees at thirty foot distance, and between every Tree set a Chery Tree, which Method is now much used; for by the time that the Apple Trees will spread to require the place of the Chery Trees, the Che∣ries will have done bearing, which will be in about Twenty Years time; and then they may be cut down and grubbed up, so that you have then a sine Apple-Orchard. And be sure let the [ 10] Rows be of one intire sort of Fruit and not mix∣ed, which is very convenient for the gathering the Fruit, and laying them together in sorts.

PEARS are to be set as Apple Trees, with a Chery betwixt; But for Plums they may be set in the Angles of the Ground, or in Hedg∣rows.

FILBERTS are best to be set to make a Walk, the like may Walnuts; and Codlins are set at a closer distance, being good to make H••d••rows. [ 20]

WALLFRVIT are to be Planted at such a distance as the hight of the Wall, and the Na∣ture of the Fruit requires; for the higher the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the nearer together, and the lower the far∣ther, that they may have room to spread in breadth, which they want in height.

Of Pruning, Plashing, and ordering of Trees.

IT is found by Experience, that the Pruning of [ 30] Trees, and taking away their dead and un∣necessary Branches, doth much better their growth.

If you would not have the Grafts and Twigs to mount up too high, you may pinch off their tender Tops, which will cause them to put forth side Branches.

In March is the best time to take away the small and Superfluous Branches, giving them a ••••nce close behind the Bud, which is much to be [ 40] observed in Pruning.

The old Trees may be Pruned in October, and November; and thence forward until the rising of the Sap.

Wall-Trees are to be pruned in Summer, taking away those Superfluous shoots of the same Years growth, that hinder the ripening of the Fruit; and in the Winter after the Fall of the Leaf you may prune and take away the residue of the Branches that are unnecessary, placing those that [ 50] are fit to remain in order.

Some are of Opinion that the best time for this business, and to nayl the Boughs to the Wall, is in February, after the great Frosts are past, except Peaches and Ne••••••rines, which must be pruned when the Buds begin to put forth; for if sooner, it will endanger the killing them.

In pruning of Trees (especially Wall-Trees) be sure to leave the small Twigs that are short and knitted to Blossom the succeeding Year; for if [ 60] you observe such Twigs have the most Fruit, be∣ing usually of two Years growth. But cut off all gross Shoots that will not be easily brought to the Wall.

In Pruning the VINE leave some new Bran∣ches every Year, and take away (if too many) some of the old, which will much further its bear∣ing; And when you cut your Vine, leave two Knots, and cut at the next Interval; for usual∣ly the two Buds yield a Bunch of Grapes, and when (through Ignorance) they are close cut, as for Beauty sake, they commonly bear few or no Grapes.

The Pruning of Trees doth much depend on the Discretion of the Person, who is to consider the growth of every Tree; and what may most conveniently be taken away without leaving the Walls bare.

Divers necessary things to be observed about Fruit-Trees.

THe Roots of such Trees that Thrive not, nor bear well, may be laid open about No∣vember; and if the Ground be poor in the Spring, lay thereto good Fat Mould; but if the Ground be too rich, so that the Tree spends it self in Leaves and Branches, and bears but little Fruit; then put to the Roots, Lime, Ashes, or any Manure that is Hot, Salt and Dry, being mixed with the Earth.

Digging about the Roots of the Trees, adds much to their Fertility, and prevents Moss.

Stones laid in heaps about the Roots, preserve them cool and moist in Summer, and warm in Winter; and cause great Fertility.

If your Orchard is not Naturally warm Seated, and defended from Winds by Woods, Hills, or the like; I would advise you when first you Plant your Orchard, to raise about it a good White-Thorn Hedge, which in a few Years will be a good shelter. Also at some distance beyond the Hedge Plant a Row of Wal-Nut, Chesnut, Popler or Lime-Trees, which growing higher than the Hedge, will the better break off the Wind; But Plant the Trees at such a distance from the Hedge, that the dropings of the Leaves may not fall upon it, which will spoil its grow∣ing.

If the Tree be Bark-bound, and doth not thrive, slit the Bark down the Body of the Tree with your Knife in April or May, which will cure it.

If the cleft where the Tree was Grafted, or any other wounded place be neglected, the Rain is apt to engender the Canker, which is hard to cure, if far gone; and if cutting off the Cankered Branches will not do (it being so much infected) the best way is to cut it down for the Fire, and Plant another in its Room.

In Dunging of Fruit-Trees, the Soyl should be laid not close to the Body, but at some distance where the Roots run; and strong and hot Dung is not so good, as that well rotted and cold, espe∣cially for hot Grounds, but the Soyl of the Streets is far better.

For causing old decayed Trees to bear well a∣gain, about the end of October, or beginning of November, Prune the Trees from their decayed, bruised, and Superfluous Branches; also scrape off the Moss, which is as bad as Ivy is to the Oak; then dig the Earth about the Trees at least a Yard round, and about a Spit deep; and let it

lye open all the Winter until mid-March, then give the Trees a good Watering, at least a Barrel to a Tree, then lay on some good rotten Dung, and cover it over with the Earth, then about the end of May give each Tree the like Watering, and this will cause them to bear to Admira∣tion.

To prevent the Bliteing of Fruit, when you find there is an Easterly, or a Northeasterly Wind, take three or four Armfulls of Musty Straw, or [ 10] Fern, and that side of the Orchard that the W••••d blows on, lay the said stuff in three or four pla∣ces, according to the bigness of the Orchard, and so set Fire to it; and the Wind will drive the Smoak and smother through all the Trees; and thus do every Day so long as the Wind continues in that quarter; and it will prevent all Blites, and all manner of Flies and Catterpillers that these Winds bring.

Orchards that lye low, and near Rivers, have [ 20] their Fruit waterish, puffy, and subject to perish; to prevent which, in October or November lay o∣pen the Roots of the Trees about a Yard and a half in compass, and at least a Spit deep, then fill up the place with Chalk, and let it lye open all the Winter for the Frost to chasten it, and to Incorporate the better with the Earth; and about the end of March throw the Earth upon the Chalk, and give each Tree a good Watering, and your Fruit will be of another tast for goodness; [ 30] and will also be firm, and last as long as if grown on higher Ground.

Having given you sufficient Instructions for the Ordering, Grafting, and Innoculating of Fruit-Trees, I shall conclude this Chapter by giving an Account of the several sorts of Apples, Pears, Plums, &c.

Sorts of APPLE-TREES. [ 40]

GReat are the Variety of Apples, as indeed of all other Fruits, some coming early for Summer Fruit, and others late for Winter Fruit. A Catalogue of the choisest is as follow∣eth.

• The Juniting.
• The King Apple.
• The Margaret or Magda∣len.
• The Famagusta.
• The Giant Apple.
• The good Housewife.
• Pome de Rambures.
• The Winter Queening.
• The Quince Apple.
• The Carlisle Pepin.
• The Bridgwater Pepin.
• The Kirton Pepin.
• The Golden Pepin.
• The Kentish Pepin.
• The Holland Pepin.
• The Green Pepin.
• The Roman Pepin.
• The French Pepin.
• The Italian Pepin.
• The Black Pepin.
• The Russet Pepin.
• The Summer Pepin.
• The Beauford Pepin.
• The Lincoln Rennet. [ 50]
• The Golden Rennet.
• The Great Rennet.
• The Kentish Rennet.
• The Russet Rennet.
• The Red Russet.
• The Round Russet Har∣vey.
• The Harm Russet.
• The Nonsuch.
• The Royal Pearmain. [ 60]
• The Summer Pearmain.
• The Winter Pearmain.
• The Lowins Pearmain.
• The Apple Royal.
• The Darling.
• The Angels Bit.
• The Blandril.
• The Year Apple.
• The Marygold Apple.
• The Palman Apple.
• The John Apple.
• The Pomewater.
• The Sage Apple.
• The Marygold.
• The Marygold Stocken.
• The Rose Apple.
• The David Apple.
• The Davy Gentle.
• The Flower of Kent.
• The Henrietta Maria.
• The Old wife.
• The Gillyflower.
• The Gaunt Apple.
• The Kitchin Apple.
• The Powel Apple.
• The White Coster.
• The Gray Coster.
• The Red Coster.
• The Violet Apple.
• The Cotten Apple.
• The Pome Roy.
• The Boughton Greening.
• The Harvy Apple.
• The Summer Belle Bon.
• The Winter Belle Bon.
• The Breading.
• The Spising.
• The Master John.
• The Master William.
• The Bardfield Queening.
• The French Goodwin.
• The Worcester Apple.
• The Sugar Apple.
• Sops in Wine.
• The Paradice Apple.
• The Fig Apple, which is without Core, or Kernel, and without Blossom, the Fruit coming out of the sides of the Branches, as big as a Pepin.

Several sorts of PEARS.

For the Table.

• The Summer Bon Christi∣en.
• Burgomet de Buga.
• The Great Burgomet.
• The Summer Burgomet.
• The Winter Burgomet.
• The Orange Burgomet.
• Brezid Heri.
• Baeure de Roy.
• The Green Baeure Pear.
• The Violet Pear.
• The Binfield.
• The Greenfield.
• The Great Musk Pear.
• The Great Russet of Renes.
• The Amodotte.
• The Bloody Pear.
• The Rousellet.
• The Winter Bon Christi∣en.
• The Pourtail.
• The Dead Mans Pear.
• The Winter Musk.
• The Dionier.
• The Double Flowered Pear.
• The Dutate.
• The Primating Pear.
• The Red Geneting.
• The Diego Pear.
• The Green Chissel.
• The King Katherine.
• The Queen Katherine.
• The Russet Katherine.
• The Anthony Pear.
• The Berry Pear.
• The Morley Pear.
• The Windsor Pear.
• The Musk Pear.
• The King Pear.
• The Summer Poppering.
• The Green Poppering.
• The Royal Pear.
• The Pinp Pear.
• The Prick Pear.
• The Whorwood Pear.
• The Colveil Pear.
• The Tradescans Pear.
• The Slipper Pear.
• The Twelve penny Pear.
• The Inglefield Pear.
• The Norwich Pear.
• The Orang Pear.
• The Swai••e Pear.
• The Nonsuch Pear.

The Pears for Baking.

• The French Warden.
• The Spanish Warden.
• The Great Warden.
• The Red Warden.
• The White Warden.
• The Green Warden.
• Parkinsons Warden.
• Godboults Warden.
• The Red Roman Warden.
• The Quince Pear.
• The Painted Pear.
• The Tunip Pear.
• The Canterbury Pear.
• The Bell Pear.
• The Black Pear of Wor∣cester.
• The Winter Katherin.
• The Baking Greenfield.
• The Great Surrein.

Other choise Pears brought out of France.

• The Ambrette.
• The Averac.
• The Amadote.
• The Burgomot de la Gril∣liere.
• The Burgomot de Suisse
• The Burgomot de Bugi.
• Baeurre de Autumn.
• Baeurre d' Hyver.
• Bezidery.
• Bezideraisson.
• Bon Chretin d' Espagne.
• Bon Chretien d' este Mus{que}
• Bourdon Musque.
• Brouta Bon.
• Petite Cuisse Madame.
• Double Fleur.
• Epine d' Hyver.
• Frondente de Bresse.
• Lansac.
• Martinsec. [ 10]
• Monsieur.
• Petite Musquat.
• Roy d' Este.
• St. Michael.
• Virgouleuse.
• Vert Longue.
• Messire Jean.

Several sorts of PLVMS. [ 20]

• Yellow and white Plums
• The Amber Primordian.
• The Prunella.
• The Diapered Plum.
• The Marbled Plum.
• The Peascod Plum.
• The White Date.
• The Yellow Date.
• The White Pear Plum.
• The Dutch Plum.
• The Apricock Plum.
• The White Mirabolin.
• the Red Date.
• the Nutmeg Plum.
• Blew Plums.
• the Violet Plum.
• the Primordian.
• the Perdrigon.
• Greenish Plums.
• the Damosine.
• the Green Osterly.
• the Green Perdrigon. [ 30]
• the Verdoch.
• the Peascod Plum.

Red Plums.

• The Red Primordian.
• The Red Muskle Plum.
• The Cheston Plum.
• The Kings Plum.
• The Queen Mother Plum.
• the Damasco Plum.
• the Foderingham Plum.
• the Imperial Plum.
• the Gaunt Plum.
• the Red Peascod Plum.

Black Plums.

• The Morocco Plum.
• the Barbary Plum.
• the Black Damosine.
• the Black Prunello.
• the Muscle Plum. [ 40]
• the Catalonian Plum.
• the Pole Plum.
• the Turkey Plum.
• the Black Year Plum.
• the Pruine Damson.

Several sorts of CHERIES.

• The May Chery.
• the Early Flanders Chery
• the Latter Flanders Che∣ry.
• the Flanders Cluster Che∣ry.
• the Preserving Chery.
• the Morello.
• the Duke.
• the Arch Duke.
• the Carnation.
• the Lukeward.
• the Black Heart.
• the White Heart.
• the Red Heart.
• the Black Spanish.
• the Bleeding Heart. [ 50]
• the Prince Royal.
• the Portugal Chery.
• the Kings Chery.
• the Corone.
• the Biquar.
• the White Spanish.
• the Amber.
• the Hungarian of Zwerts.
• the Ciliegi Birrielone.
• the Dwarf Chery. [ 60]
• the Black Chery of Or∣leance.

Of several sorts of QVINCES.

• the English Apple Quince.
• the Barbery Quince.
• the Brunswick Quince.
• the Lions Quince.
• the Portugal Pear Quince.
• the Portugal Apple Quince.

Several sorts of APRICOCKS.

• THe common sorts known to all.
• The Algier Apricock is a small forward Fruit.
• The Masculine Apricock also an early Fruit.
• The Long Apricock much like the Masculine.
• The White Apricock better than the common sort.
• The Orang Apricock, so called from its deep co∣lour.
• The great Roman Apricock, a fair Fruit good to preserve.

Several sorts of PEACHES.

THe Nutmeg Peach is of two sorts, one white and first Ripe, the other red on the side next the Sun.

The Troy Peach, also an early Fruit, and lar∣ger than the Nutmeg-Peach.

The Savoy Peach hath a fair Fruit, is early Ripe, and of a redish yellow colour.

The Modena Peach comes from the Stone, is of a yellowish colour, and excellent tasted.

The Orleance Red Peach leaves the Stone, be∣ing a fine Stone.

The Morello Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is a fair redsided Fruit.

The Navar Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is of a whitish colour.

The Magdalen Peach is much of the Nature of the Navar.

The Carnation Peach is a very good Standard.

The Alberges Peach leaves the stone, and is a fair yellow Fruit.

The Violet Musk Peach is red on the out side, and yellow within.

The Persian Peach is a fair yellow Fruit, but cleaves to the Stone.

The white Monsieur is red within, and white without.

The Burdeaux Peach is a large Fruit of a dark yellow, but red at the Stone.

The Verona is a very good red Peach.

The Smyrna is a very good yellow Peach.

The Rambovillet is a good dark yellow Peach.

The Peach de Pavie is a good yellow Peach.

The Slane Peach is a good yellow large Peach.

The Fryers Peach is an excellent Fruit.

The Crown Peach is a fair Fruit.

The Newington Peach is a fair and excellent Fruit, of a greenish white, and red next the Sun.

The Billice Peach is something of the Nature of the Newington, as is the Crown Peach.

The Queens Peach is a good large Fruit, of a redish yellow colour.

The Isabellaa Peach is a very good tasted Fruit, of a fair redish yellow colour.

The Violet Muscat of a fine Violet colour, and is a good Fruit.

The Colrane Peach is a good red coloured Fruit.

The Roman Peach is a fair yellow coloured Fruit.

The Man Peach is an excellent tasted Fruit.

The Musk Peach is a large beautiful and good tasted fruit.

The Quince Peach so called as resembling the [ 10] Quince.

The Portugal Peach is a good redish coloured Peach.

The Lavar Peach is the same with the Nevar Peach.

The Peach Despot is yellow spotted with red.

The Royal Peach is a large fruit like the Queens Peach.

Several sorts of NECTORINES. [ 20]

THe Green Nectorine is of two sorts, the bigger and the lesser, which is of small e∣steem.

The Yellow Nectorine is also of two sorts, the large and the small, which is the best, and com∣eth from the Stone.

The White Nectorine is not much better than the great yellow.

The Paper White Nectorine is a smaller fruit [ 30] than the White, but better tasted.

The Painted Nectorine is of a good tast, and is full of red Spots.

The Red Roman Nectorine is a fair and well tasted fruit, of a Musky scent, and of a fine red colour on the out side.

The Red Nectorine is an excellent fruit, and leaves the Stone.

The Murrey Nectorine is of a yellowish colour, and not so good as the Roman. [ 40]

The Tawny Nectorine is an excellent fruit, be∣ing red on the out-side, and yellow within.

The Russet Nectorine is of a Brown Russet co∣lour on the out-side, and red at the Stone.

The Orbine Nectorine is a well tasted fruit, be∣ing red on the out-side.

All these aforesaid Nectorines and Peaches are treated of by Rea, fol. 210, and 212.

Peaches and Nectorines are more tender then Apricocks, and the fruit requires more the Sun [ 50] to ripen them; so that they must be Planted on the hottest Wall, that is, such that hath the most influence of the Sun.

If you suffer the middle Stem to grow upright, the side Branches will not prosper, but decay for want of Nourishment, the top drawing away the Sap. Therefore when the Tree is young bow down the Head, and so Nail it to the Wall, which will stop the Sap and cause the Tree to put forth side Branches. [ 60]

Such Trees that are old, and decaying, cut down in March as low as convenience will allow, leaving some Branches to draw up the Sap, and cover the Wound with Clay; and the Stock will put forth new Lances, and in a Year or two come to bear fruit again very plentifully.

Of VINES, and the several sorts of GRAPES.

THe small Black Grape is first ripe, 'tis a well-tasted Fruit, and set thick on the Bunches.

The White Muscadine Grape beareth large Bun∣ches of great Grapes, both of a sweet and plea∣sant tast. Of this Grape there are two sorts; of which one more sweet and pleasant than the other.

The Canada Grape, or Parsley Vine. so called as having its Leaves much like those of Parsley; it is a White Grape, thinly set on Bunches, and late ripe.

The Blood-Red Grape is very good for our Clime. Of which there are several sorts; viz, the sweet Alicant or Spanish Tint Grape, the great black Orleance, which is a very harsh and restrin∣gent Grape; which is usually mixt with the White Grape, to give its colour for the rough Claret.

The Red Muscadine requires much Sun, and is a large Grape.

The Raysin of the Sun Grape requirs also much Sun, and when ripe, is a Red, large, and good tasted Fruit, but hath little Juice, being very fleshy; it is excellent to preserve and pickle.

The Bursarobe Grape requires also very much Sun, otherwise it will not ripen with us: It is an excellent large white and well tasted Grape.

The Frontiniack is a white Musky sweet Grape, and requires so much Sun with us, that it seldome comes to perfection. There is also the Red Frontiniack which is much of the nature of the white.

The Muscat Grapes are very good, and great bearers, but require so much Sun that they ripen very late.

The Burlet is a very large White Grape, chief∣ly fit for Vinegar, as seldome being here ripe.

There are divers other sorts of Grapes found in France, Italy, and other Countreys, which are not fit for our Climate; as indeed many of these aforesaid, so that 'tis unnecessary to repeat their Names.

Vines prosper best in a dry, gravelly, or stony Ground; the wet, stiff or clayish Soyl being not agreable to their natures; but the sandy light Soyl is the best. They affect much Sun, and delight to be sheltered from the cold Winds. Every Win∣ter the Roots should be opened, and Ashes or good rotten Dung, put thereto, being well mixt with the Earth. From Christmass to the end of February is the Season to prune the Vines, as before directed; but not until they have had two Years growth. About the end of August clear the Vines from those Superfluous Leaves and Bran∣ches that obstruct the ripening of the Grapes.

Vines are easily encreased by laying the new Branches in the Earth, or by Cuttings, which within a Year or two will be fit to transplant, as occasion requires; and whilst they stand unremoved, they must be yearly pruned, as the Vines.

Thus much may suffice concerning the plant∣ing of Vines about your House and Walls. It will not be amiss, since I am entred on this Fruit, to lay down some Rules for the ordering a Vine∣yard. And the rather for that it is now coming into fashion amongst the curious of our Gentrey; All which I shall set down, as received from the hands of that Honourable, worthy, and truly experi∣enced Person in these, and the like affairs, Charles Howard Esquire, Brother to the late Duke of [ 10] Norfolk.

First, You must be provided with a dry piece of Ground, of a Chalky bottom, covered with a light Mould on the Top, but a fat sandy Soyl is best; which should be on the side of a Hill, ex∣posed to the South Sun. Let the Ground be well digged, broken small, and cleared from Weeds in the Summer before Michaelmass; then from November to March, when the Weather is fair and open, plant your rooted Vines of a years [ 20] Root in streight Rows, at about a Yard asunder, and very shallow; yet so that the Roots be cover∣ed. The first Summer do not prune them, but let them grow, only keep them clean from Weeds, and set Stakes close to each Root about a foot high, to which fasten the strongest shoot, and let the o∣ther branches fall down as they will. In April, or the begining of May following, just as they begin to bud forth their Leaves, bow the top of each Vine archwise to the next Stalk, and there [ 30] fasten it, and from this bowed Branch will come out new Shoots, which will produce Grapes that will hang down to the Earth, which will be the sweetest. And this is all that is done to them un∣til pruning time, which is from the end of Janua∣ry till March; and then cut away the Branch that was tied the last year to the Stalk, and arched down as low as an Eye, but one or two at the most, and tie up another of the strongest Bran∣ches for the Stock, instead of the former, prun∣ing [ 40] away all the other Branches within an Eye or two of their Bottoms; for the fewer Branches you leave to the Root, the more Grapes you shall have the following Year.

Every Year the Ground in your Vineyard must be well diged, but not very deep, and cast the fresh Mould in the Paths to the Roots of the Vines, laying all plain and even and free from Weeds: Also in Summer you must Hoe up the Weeds, for the barer the Earth is kept in the Al∣leys, [ 50] it is the better; but about the Roots the Earth must not be stirred in Summer, nor in the bearing time; but the elder the Vineyard is, the deeper it should be diged, and turned up yearly, and old rotten Dung or Ashes should yearly in February or March be mixt with the Mould; but use not too great a quantity of Dung.

The best kinds of Vines to be planted in our Clime for a Vineyard, are the white and red Mus∣cadine, and the Frontiniack. [ 60]

When your Vines begin to decay through age, plant Young ones in their rooms; but they will continue a great while before Age decays them.

Keep the Vine-stocks about a Foot high, from whence let the Shoots yearly come forth, pruning all the Branches, except one or two of the strong∣est, within an Eye or two of the head of the old Stock; but prune not close to the Stock, ex∣cept such Branches that you would have to shoot again; for too many Shoots from a Stock will hurt the Root; therefore leave but a few; and the best Cuttings are from a Branch that spreads most in the midst of the Tree, and not from the lowest or highest Branch, having five or six Joynts from the old Stock.

Of the FIG-TREE.

THe Fig-Tree is of several sorts, and all most fit to be planted against the Wall, where they may have the benefit of the Sun. These following are the chief sorts.

The great blew Fig; The Dwarf blew Fig; The flowering Fig; the white dwarf Fig; the Langue∣dock Fig, and the Marcelles Fig; of all which the great blew Fig is most fit for our Clymate, and is easily encreased from Suckers and by Lay∣ers.

Of the SERVICE TREE.

THe common Service-Tree grows wild in many places; but there is a kind like the Hors-Chesnut, common in France, whose Fruit is much larger and better than the common sort. They are raised from the Berries which must be sown as Haws in Beds; they are also encreased by Suckers or Sets.

Of the MVLBERY-TREE.

THis Tree is of several Sorts; the Fruit or Berries being of three colours, viz. black, white and red.

The Black groweth to a large well Spread Tree, whose Fruit at first is green, and when ripe, is black.

The White Mulbery groweth not so large, is thiner set with Branches, and the Fruit is smaller, and of a sweet tast.

The Virginian Mulbery groweth to a large Tree, the Fruit is long and red, and of a pleasant tast.

The CORNELIAN CHERYTREE.

THis Tree hath its Flowers, or Blossoms small, yellow, and comes early, but the Fruit is late ripe being shaped like a small Olive; and for colour some are of a shining red, others yellow, with red Sides, and some almost white. The Fruit is chiefly used Phisically, being preser∣ved.

The BARBERY-TREE.

THis is a common Tree, but there are two sorts something rare; the first hath many Branches of Berries that are without Stones, and some on the same Bush with Stones. The other differs from the common, in that the Berries are as large again, and far better for preserving. These Plants, are exceeding great encreasers from the Suckers.

The MEDLER TREE.

THis Fruit is of no great Esteem, and would be less did it not come when all others are gone. There are said to be in France, Medlers without Stones; and had we this sort, it would be of some Esteem.

The FILBEARD TREE. [ 10]

THis Tree is well received amongst all; there are three sorts, more rare than the com∣mon known amongst us, viz.

The White Filbeard is the most common.

The Red Filbeard also common.

The Filbeard of Constantinople, which is much like the White, but hath its Kernel larger and better. [ 02]

The NVT TREE.

THe great round Nut which is thicker shelled and bigger than any other sort, the Kernel being as big as other Nuts, with their Shells on.

The great long Soft-shell'd Nut hath its Ker∣nel as big as an Almond, and very well tasted.

All these sorts of Nuts and Filbeards are plen∣tifully raised from Suckers, as well as sown of [ 30] the Nuts.

Goosberry Trees.

THese are common in all Gardens, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the Yellow and White Dutch Amber. There is a sort which is a small Red Berry, of no great Esteem, but the large preserving Goosberry is of Esteem. [ 40]

Curran Trees.

THese like Goosberrys are common, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the large Red and White. There is also a Black sort, which as yet is something rare, and indeed is like so to continue, as not being much received, only for a curiosity more than for use, as the o∣thers are, which makes excellent Wine, if well [ 50] ordered, being of a very strong body, and lasting.

Having treated of the several sorts of Fruits, in the next Chapter I shall apply them to use; laying down some Directions for the making Wines, Cyder, Perry, &c. [ 60]

CHAP. X.

Of the use and benefit of Fruits for the making of WINES, CYDER, PERRY, MEAD, &c.

THe Planting of Fruit Trees is without doubt one of the greatest Improvements that can be made of the most part of our Ground, the Fruit serving both for Meat and Drink, especially Apples for the making Cyder, which if well pre∣pared, and rightly made of Cyder Fruits, is a most delicate Liquor, not much inferiour to Wine, and is more agreable to the Constitutions of the English Bodies.

CYDER next to Wine may justly claim the preheminence of other Liquors. There are divers ways used for the making it, and sundry sorts of Fruits of which it is made.

The Fruits most fit for this Drink, may be comprehended under two sorts, or kinds, viz. either curious Table Fruits, as Pippins, Pearmains, Codlins, and the like, or the wild, harsh, and com∣mon Apples fit only for Cyder, as the Red-Streak, the White Must, the Green Must, the Gennet-Moyl, ••liots, Summer-Fillet, Winter-Fillet, Stocken Apple &c. The greater part of which are so harsh and unsavory, that Swine will scarce eat them, yet af∣fords an excellent tart and winy Liquor, far ex∣ceeding the Pippin and Pearmain; and are also of so strong a Body that the Cyder will keep, be∣ing well preserved, seven Years.

But there are some that prefer the Pippin, Pearmain, and the like curious Table Fruit, to make the best Cyder, as having in them a more Cordial and Pleasant Juice, than the harsh Apples.

By observation it is found, that the more Red is in the Rind of an Apple, the better it is for Cyder, and the Paler the worse; and no sweet Apple that hath a tough Rind, is bad for Cyder.

For the making of Cyder let your Apples hang on the Trees until they be throughly ripe, gather them without Bruises, and before you make Cy∣der of them, lay them in heaps in convenient places, free from Rain, or Dew, where they may sweat for about a Fortnight, and the harsher and more solid the Fruit is, the longer they may ly. This Sweating takes forth their Aqueous Humidi∣ty which is injurious to the Cyder.

Such Fruit that are Vnripe, Wind-falls, or any ways injured or bruised, divide from the sound, for it is better to have two sorts, the one excel∣lent, and the other indifferent, than both ordi∣nary. And be sure to take away all the Stalks, Leaves and Rotten Apples from either sort; for the Stalks, and Leaves will cause an ill Tast, and the Rotten Apples make it deadish.

About twenty four, or twenty five Bushels of good Cyder Apples thus sweated will make a Hogshead of Cyder, and if taken from the Tree, about twentytwo Bushels.

These Apples thus prepared, may be either ground in a Horse Mill, like as Tanners grind their Bark, or else beaten in a Trough with Beaters of Wood rather than Stone; and the more they are ground, or beaten, the better; but the Grinding is perferred before the Beating them.

After the Grinding, the Pulp should be put in∣to a hair Bagg, or Baggs, and so put to the Press, of which there are several sorts, but the Screw-Press [ 10] is esteemed the best.

Being Prest, strain it, and put it into your Vessel, which must be so placed that it may stand to ferment, allowing but a small Vent-hole that the Spirits wast not; fill not the Vessel quite until it hath done working; then fill it of the same sort, which must be kept for that purpose, and stop it well, only with caution at the first, lest it break the Vessel.

The best Vessels for the Tunning up the Cyder and to preserve it, are these; the Barrel-Bords [ 20] strait, the Vessel broader at the one end than at the other, and to stand on the lesser end with the Bung-hole on the top; the reason is, that the drawing the Cyder through but slowly, the Skin and Cream contracted by its Fermentation, des∣cends and wholly covers the Liquor by the ta∣pering of the Vessel, and thereby preserves the Spirits of the Cyder to the last, which otherwise would wast and expend themselves.

Some Cyder will bear a mixture with Water, [ 30] without injury to its preservation, and others will not; so that you ought to understand the nature of the Fruit before such a mixture is made; and be sure let it be done in the grinding, and not afterwards; for then it will better in∣corporate with the Cyder.

Some are of opinion, that before you press the Cyder, after it is ground or beaten, the Liquor and Must should ferment together in a Vat for that purpose, close covered, for about twenty-four [ 40] hours, which is said much to enrich the Liquor.

The other sorts of Fruits for the making the Cyder, as the Pepin, Pearmain, Gillyflower, Cod∣lin, and the like Summer or Table-fruits, are very good palatable Cyder for a Year, but will not last good longer, as wanting the strength of body that the others have.

In the Pressing, as also in the Grinding or Beat∣ing these Fruits, the same Method is used as be∣fore [ 50] directed; but the Cyder or Must is not to be immediately Tunned up, but should stand in the Vat at least twenty four hours, or more, accord∣ing as the Apples were more or less pulpy, and must be close covered with Hair-cloths or Sacks, to hinder too much evaporation of the Spirits; nor must it be kept so close in as to cause Fer∣mentation, in which time the more gross part of the Feces will precipitate or fall to the Bottom, which otherwise would have prejudiced the Cyder [ 60] by an over Fermentation, and have made it flat and sowre.

Then at a Tap, three or four Inches from the Bottom of the Vat, draw forth the Cyder, and Tun it up, wherein is yet a sufficient quantity of the gross Lee or Feces to Fermentation; the want of the right understanding whereof is one of the main causes of so much bad Cyder in this Kingdom.

PERRY.

PErry is a Liquor not so generally received as Cyder, nor indeed is it so grateful to the Palate.

The best Pears for this Liquor are such that are not fit to be eaten for their harshness, and therefore are commonly planted in Hedge-Rows, as the Bosbury Pear, the Horse Pear, the Bareland Pear, and the Choak Pear; and the redder they are the better they are.

Pears must be through ripe ere gathered; they must be laid on Heaps to sweat as the Apples; and for the grinding or Beating, Pressing, and Tunning them up, you must observe the same Rules as for Cyder.

Crabs and Pears ground together make a good Liquor, for the Crabs help to preserve the Perry.

Some Observations concerning Cyder and Perry.

PEarmains make but a small Cyder of them∣selves.

If the Vessel be tainted, boyl an Ounce of Pepper in Water, enough to fill the Vessel, and let it stand therein two or three days.

New Vessels give the Cyder or Perry a deep Colour, and an ill Tast; therefore Wine-Cask are esteemed the best: But for want of such, put a little Mustard-seed ground with some of the Cyder into the Vessel, and it will help it.

Two or three Eggs put into a Hogs-head of Cyder that is sharp, sometimes helps it; and two or three rotten Apples put into the Cask will clarify thick Cyder. Also thick Cyder or Perry by a second Fermentation may be made good and clear; but that which is acid is seldom re∣covered.

Ginger helpeth Fermentation, promoteth its duration, and gives a more brisk Spirit.

Boyl Cyder immediately after the Press, be∣fore Fermentation.

The Cyder that runs from the Ground, or beaten Apples before they are in the Press, are much the best.

Fill not the Vessels quite full, that there may be room for the Cyder to gather a Head.

The mildness and temperature of the Wea∣ther is of much concernment in the Fermentation of Cyder.

Wheaten-Bran cast in after Fermentation, thick∣ens the Coat or Cream, and is a great preserva∣tion to it.

Cyder that is in danger of being spoyled, may be preserved, or recovered by putting into a Hogs-head about a Gallon of unground Wheat, or some Mustard-seed ground in about a Pint of Cyder, or Sack, which is better.

Stone Troughs are not good to beat or grind Cyder in, because they bruise the Kernels too much, which gives an ill Tast to the Cyder.

And after they are ground or beaten, let them stand a Day or two before they are prest, which will cause it to have a better Colour, and doth also cause it a little to ferment and maturate in the Pulp. Also after it is prest 'tis good to let the Cyder stand in a Vat covered, to ferment about twenty four Hours, before it is tunned up, and then draw it by a Tap from the Vat within a∣bout two Inches from the Bottom, leaving the Feces or Dregs behind, which will not be lost, [ 10] if you put it upon the Chaff, for then it meliorates the Pur, or Water Cyder, if you make any.

Your Cyder, or indeed Perry, being Tunned up, leave a small Vent open for some Days, un∣til its windy Spirit is spent, which otherwise will break the Barrel, or find some other Vent that will always abide open, to the spoyling of the Cyder, if you find it not out and stop it.

If Cyder or Perry proves thick and sowrish, put into the Cask at the Bung-hole some Apples, [ 20] which will cause a new Fermentation, and very much quicken the Cyder, provided you draw it off into another Vessel within a few Days after. But if it be only a little sowrish, or drawn off in another Vessel, the way to correct or preserve it, is to put about a Gallon of Blanched-Wheat into a Hogshead, and so according to that proportion into a greater or lesser Vessel.

Mixture of Fruits makes good Cyder or Perry, provided they be of an equal ripeness, and well [ 30] picked from rotten ones, as also from Leaves, Stalks, or the like.

The best way to preserve Cyder long, is to Bottle it; in doing which observe these Directions; You may Bottle it in two or three Days after it is well setled, and before it hath throughly fer∣mented; or you may Bottle it in March follow∣ing, which by the curious is adjudged the best time. After it has been botled a Week, provided it be new, put into each Bottle a Piece of fine Loaf-Sugar, [ 40] as big as a Nutmeg, which will make it brisk; but if you Bottle it not till March, then you may put in the Sugar at the time of the Bot∣ling. Your great care is required in the well Cork∣ing them, for if they take vent your Cyder or Pery (and indeed any sort of Liquor whatsoever) will be dead, and by consequence spoyled. There∣fore chuse your soft spungy Corks, that will swell, and to prevent their flying tye them about the Neck of the Bottle with Pack-thread. [ 50]

In Summer you may keep them in cold Foun∣tains, or in your Cellers covered over with Sand, and in Winter to prevent their breaking with the Frost, cover them with Straw, and by this good ordering them you may keep them many Years, provided the Fruit be good, and of a strong Body.

Of Wines made of the Juice of Fruits. [ 60]

CHerries make a fine, cool and pleasant Drink for the Summer Season, but being of no strong Body, will not keep long; yet the Morello Cherry will keep, and for Brandy this doth far ex∣ceed the Black Cherry, being of a curious Tast and a great Cordial; for the making this Wine gather such Cherries that are ripe, and not rotten or bruis∣ed, and press them in a Hair Cloth as your Apples, or Pears, after their grinding or Beating. Let the Liquor stand in the Vat to settle, and then draw it off into Bottles, which must be ordered as for Cyder and Perry, and well stopt with good Corks.

PLVMS make a good Wine, but not so brisk and fine as the Cherries; the Black Pear-Plum is the best.

MVLBERRIES make a rich, and high co∣loured Wine, and of a strong Body; It is very good to put to small or pale Wines to add a Tincture.

RARSBERRIES is an excellent pleasant Wine; and if mixt with other Liquors, adds an excellent high Flavour and Gust unto them. The usual way to make this Wine, is to boyl up the Juice with Sugar, and put it up in Bottles. Of this Juice two or three Spoonfuls are sufficient, to put into a Bottle of Claret, which will give it the Gust of Rarsberry Wine.

GOOSBERRIES extracted in their due time, being neither too ripe nor too green, and mixt with Water and Sugar, make a palatable Wine; it is usually made without boyling, be∣cause that contracts a brown Colour, and Water is added to it, to mitigate the strength. After prepare it thus; Let the Goosberries be bruised, but not too much, which force from the Pulp through a Hair-cloth: The Juice that comes out put into an Earthen Pot, the which let stand for four or five days to settle, then draw it clear off into Bottles, putting to each Bottle two Ounces of fine Sugar, and so Bottle it up.

CVRRANS are also a strong Wine; It is to be mixt with some Water and Sugar, and is best to be boyled; when it is well setled, let it be put up into Bottles, and well Corked.

QVINCES make a strong and excellent Wine, which is thus made; Slice them, then press them in a Hair-cloth; the Juice must stand in a Vat, or Vessel, to settle as the other Li∣quors, before it is Botled up. If Sugar, and some Aromatick Spices were put in, it would much add to the pleasantness of the Tast.

MEAD or METHEGLIN being right∣ly ordered, is an excellent Liquor, the pureness and whiteness of the Honey is the chief cause of its clearness. It is made several ways.

I shall give you Instructions for the making it two or three ways, which are adjudged the best.

Take one part of Clarified Honey, and eight parts of pure clear running or Spring Water (but for weak Mead a far less quantity of Honey,) boyl them well together in a Copper or other Vessel, untill good part be consumed; then take it off the Fire, and when it is almost cold Tun it up, and it will work of it self; Then so soon as it has done working, stop up the Vessel very close, and if you have conveniency, bury it under Ground for about two Months; if not, keep it in a low place, and this will take away the tast and smell of the Honey and Wax, and give it a Flavour like Wine.

If you would have it of an Aromatick Tast, to about 12 Gallons you may add these Ingre∣dients, viz. Flowers of Rosemary, and Margerom, of each a small Handful; a Handful of Mother

of Thime, one Ounce of Nutmegs and Cloves, ½ an Ounce of Cinamon, and of Ginger, and Car∣dimum of each two Drams; slice the Nutmegs, and Ginger, and bruise the Cloves.

Another way is, To twelve Gallons of scum'd Must or Liquor, as aforesaid, take one Ounce of Ginger, ½ Ounce of Cinamon, of Cloves, and Pepper of each two Drams; let all these be gross beaten, the one half sowed in a Bag, and the o∣ther loose; and let them boyl in the Liquor a∣bout [ 10] half an Hour.

Some mix their Honey and Water until it will bear an Egg, by which rule you may make it stronger or weaker at your pleasure.

Another way is, To sixteen Gallons of Must take one Ounce of Thime, one Ounce of Eglantine, ½ an Ounce of Margerom, and as much of Rose∣mary; 2 Ounces of Ginger, one Ounce of Ci∣namon, and of Cloves and Pepper of each ½ an Ounce, all gross beaten; of these Ingredients let [ 20] the one half be boyled in a Bag, and the other loose, as aforesaid.

Another way, To about eight Gallons of Wa∣ter, and one Gallon of Honey, as aforesaid, add three or four li. of Reasons of the Sun, stoned, without any other Ingredients or Spices.

Note that all Green Herbs are apt to make the Metheglin or Mead flat or dead, and the Cloves make it high coloured. The scumming it in the boyling is injurious, for that being of [ 30] the nature of Yest, helps it to Ferment and pu∣rify; but tis customary with most to take off the Scum in the boyling, and for setting it to work, to use Yest, which is not so good.

CHAP. XI. [ 40]

Of the Benefit by Raising and planting of Timber-Trees, and other Trees useful for Building, Fewel, and other Mechanick Vses.

MAny and considerable are the advantages [ 50] by Wood and Trees, for 'tis experimen∣tally known that an Acre of Mountainous and barren Ground not worth cultivating, being planted with Trees, and Coppices, will be worth an Acre of indifferent good Ground well Hus∣banded; Also it improves and meliorates Ground, if cleared and ploughed: And Trees being planted in Hedg-rows are very commodious to keep off cold Winter Blasts that nip the Corn, and pinch the Cattle; and also qualifie the dry [ 60] Winds and parching Heat of the Summer. It al∣so affords Timber for the building and reedify∣ing of Houses, and Out-houses; as also for the making of Carts, Ploughs, and other Utensils, together with a supply of Fewel, so deficient in many Champain Countreys.

And besides these, and many more Advan∣tages, nothing can render a Seat m••re delectable than when situate amongst pleasant Trees and Groves, without which it lieth unpleasant, and naked, as being exposed to the Winds, and Weather.

There are several Sorts of Trees, very useful and profitable, as well as ornamental; most of which I shall treat of: And first with Timber-Trees.

TIMBER-TREES.

THe Trees reckoned for Timber are the Oak, the Elm, Ash, Beech, Walnut, and Ches∣nut.

The Oak hath the preheminence of all others, for its strength and Durableness; and for that reason is made use of for building of Ships, for which the English Oak excels all other Na∣tions. It is a Tree that will grow and prosper in any sort of Land, either good or bad, as on Clayey, Sandy, or Gravelly Ground, whether dry or moist, warm or cold; but that which is most agreable, is the black, deep and fast Mold, and rather dry, and on a rising Ground, than low and moist. They will also grow on hilly and stony Ground, though but slowly.

For the Propagation you may sow Acorns in Beds well dug and prepared; the Season for which is soon after they are full ripe; for they must not lye long after they are gathered, for the withering Spoyls them. The Spring following they will come up and be fit to transplant into your Nursery at convenient Distances, until they are fit to plant into your Grounds: But it is, and hath been the common Opinion, especially a∣mongst the Countrey People, whose Custom is to follow their Predecessors Foot-steps, right or wrong that the Oak of all other Trees will not grow, if set; but 'tis a vulgar Error, for they will grow and thrive as well as any other sorts of Trees, as hath experimentally been found, not only by those raised from the Acorn, as aforesaid, but also by Sets drawn up in Hedg-rows, or o∣ther places, and transplanted; but these prove generally crooked, so that you should cut off the Shoot close to the Ground when you plant it, and in the place thereof will shoot up ano∣ther that will grow streight.

Besides the great benefit by the Wood for Buil∣dings, Pails, Rayls, Mills, Sluces, &c. enduring both wet and dry, Wind and all Weathers, it is of such use, that Tanners cannot dress their Lea∣ther without the Bark; likewise the Mast, that is, the Acorns, are of great advantage for the fatning of Swine, and that Bacon so fed (especi∣ally if they are fed with Pease some time after) is of a delicate sweet Tast; and if salted with Salt-Peter instead of Bay-Salt, will be little in∣ferior to the Westphalia Bacon, so highly esteem∣ed. Acorns are also very good feed for Ra∣bets.

The Elm is a Tree easily propagated, grow∣ing in most sorts of Ground; but it most delights in light, loose, and moist Land, and on the Banks of such level, and fertile Grounds, whether gravelly or chalky, it prospers well.

This Tree is raised from Suckers, which shoot from the Roots in great plenty, which may be slipped off, and transplanted; or if the Roots of an Elm, that is felled, be cut into pieces, and put into Earth, they will send forth Suck∣ers.

It is a Tree very fit for Avenues, or Walks, by reason of its growing so streight, upright and high, over-topping all others, as also so near to∣gether; and is of that flexibleness that it may be [ 10] brought to grow in any Shape.

If it is felled between November and February, it will be all heart, or Spine, having little or no Sap; and is of great use for making all things that lie always wet, or always dry.

The ASH is a quick growing Tree, thriving in any sort of barren, montainous and dry Ground, but not so well for Timber, as in Coppice-Woods, nor will it thrive so well as on good Ground, or such that is of a chalky, and white [ 20] Soyl.

'Tis raised from the Seed, or Keys, which must be gathered when they begin to fall about October, and so sown in Beds, as you do your Acorns or Haws, and the next Spring come Twelve-Month they will appear, and thrive very well; but they must be removed, and set thinner whilst they are small, by reason of their speedy deep rooting. You must not cut off the Tops of the young small Ashes, by reason it is a sappy [ 30] Plant; but for the greater Sets it is good to cut them near the Ground, for then they will send forth new Shoots that will be better and larger. You may also have Plants drawn by those that draw Quick-setts, which will prove very good; but not like unto those that are raised in a Nur∣sery, as aforesaid.

If you would raise these Trees on Hills or o∣pen Grounds, the best way is to sow the Seeds in the place, either before, or after the Plough; [ 40] and if in Coppices, or in such places where the Plough cannot pass, then to prick in amongst the Ridges of Hasel, or the like shruby stuff, which will defend it from Cattle until the Trees are grown up.

The Season for setting the Ash for use, is from November to February; for if the Sap be but a little in the Tree the Worm takes it, and soon Spoils the Wood.

The Ash is a speedy grower, and is of gene∣ral [ 50] use for Carpenters, Joyners, Wheelrights, Coop∣ers, Turners, and other Artificers, and is also much used by Gardiners for Arbours, Palisado-Hedges, Hop-poles, &c. and for firing no Wood is comparable to it, either green or dry.

The BEECH delights to grow in gravelly, stony, sandy and warm Ground; and on the sides and Tops of high Hills, and chalky Moun∣tains.

This Tree will grow to a great bigness, and is [ 60] raised from the Mast, as the Oak; as also from young Plants drawn up, and Planted as before directed; for the Oak, whilst it is very young it grows but slowly, but when it is gotten out of the way, no Tree thrives better; and although it be crooked, knotty and ill shapen, whilst it is young, yet it will be otherwise when it comes to its full growth.

It is a Wood of a fine, clean and white Grain, and not apt to slit or rend, which occasions it to be so much used by Turners, Joyners, Vphol∣sterers, and the like Handy-crafts. The Mast is very good and sweet Feed for Swine, Deer, Pheasants, &c.

The WALNVT-TREE is a Wood of a fine Grain, and of a curious brown Colour, being of excel∣lent use for curious Works, and therefore much used by the Cabinet-makers, Gun-smiths, and such like Artificers. It delights in a good deep Mould, and is raised from the Nut, as before directed in the Chapter of Fruit-trees.

The CHESNVT delights in a light Ground, or in a moist Gravel, but will grow in any Soyl; It is also raised by the Nut as the Wal-nut: it is a durable Wood for Building, and its Fruit is good for the Table, especially roasted in the Embers; and is esteedmed excellent for the Fatning of Swine.

Of Trees for Fewel, and other uses.

THe BIRCH is a Tree that will grow and thrive in any place, as well on the hot Gra∣velly and sandy Ground, as on the cold, wet, and moorish. Tis raised from Suckers, planted at convenient distances, five or sixe Foot asunder, which soon will grow up to Trees. After the first Year they should be cut within an Inch of the Ground, which will cause them to shoot out the stronger.

The Wood is useful for Turners, and makes good Charcoal.

This Tree yields the best Sap, and most in quantity of any in the Kingdom, which being prepared, either with Sugar or Honey, makes a pleasant Liquor, which now bears the name of Birch-Wine. It is thus to be drawn from the Trees; Cut off some of the small Branches, and hang Bottles with the ends of the Branches so cut put into their months, into which the Christallin Liquor will distil. You may also bore a Hole in∣to the Body of the Tree, putting therein a Tap, to which hang a Bottle to receive the said Liquor. And by either of these ways good quan∣tities thereof may be extracted in the Months of February and March when the Sap ascends, and before the Spring of the Leaf. It will run best when the Sun shines warm, or when the Wind is South, or West. This Liquor thus extracted, and well prepared, makes a very good and palate∣able Wine.

The MAPLE delights most in a sound and dry Soyl, either in Woods or Hedgrows. It is raised from the Keys, as the Ash. The Wood is very good for Turners and Joyners, being of a fine, light, and white Grain.

The QVICK-BEAM delights in a light Ground, in Mountains and Woods. 'Tis a quick growing Wood, of chief use for Fewel, and is raised from the Setts; or the Berrys, which when ••ipe, may be sown.

The HORN-BEAM agrees best with Barren, cold and hilly Grounds; 'tis to be raised by Sets, which when set, must be cut within half a Foot of the Ground, and from the Seds sown

in October, which are ripe in August. It is a very hard Wood, and fit for Mill-wrights. If plan∣ted at about a Foot or eighteen Inches asunder in a single Row, it makes a fine Hedge, for it grows tall, with Leaves to the Foot of the Stems.

The HASEL groweth in any kind of Ground, and chiefly in Coppices; tis raised from the Nut, or from Sets, as the Filbeard, and is of principal use for Fewel. [ 10]

Of Aquaticks, or Trees growing in wa∣tery places.

THe POPLAR thrives best on the Banks of Rivers, or Ditches, but not in the Wa∣ter, as the Willow; 'Tis raised from the Branches cut off, and thrust into the Ground; but cut not off the Top, until they have stood two or [ 20] three Years, and then they may be headed at eight, ten, fifteen, or twenty Foot high; or you may let them run up without topping, which is more ornamental, but not so profitable. They may be planted at three or four Foot asunder, and will grow very well.

The Wood is good for Turners, as well as for Fewel, being very profitable, and a great grow∣er.

The ASPEN TREE little differs from [ 30] the Poplar; only it will grow in dry places, and not in wet; it is raised by Suckers, and must be ordered as the Poplar, not cutting off the Head, the first or second Year.

The ABELE TREE is a kind of white Poplar, but of a finer Grain, 'tis raised of Slips from the Roots, as also from Layers, and Cut∣ings; 'tis a speedy grower, and therefore very profitable to Plant.

The WILLOW delights in wet and moorish [ 40] Grounds, being commonly set on the Sides of Ditches, or Rivers to receive the benefit of the Water to nourish them. They are raised of Sets, or Lopings, the greatest care being to choose those that are smooth, and of a fine green, which shews them to be kindly, and free from the Canker. They are to be cut Taperwise, at the lower part, which is to be thrust into the Ground, a deep Hole being made in the Ground by an Iron Crow, and the Set being thrust down therein, great care [ 50] must be that the Earth is well closed about it, otherwise it will not draw root so well; and also be careful that you raise not the Bark, or Rind, from the Wood. Your Sets being thus ordered, let them be busht about to be preserved from the rubing of Cattle, to loosen them for two or three Years, and afterwards they are past all danger: You must also keep them clean from Suckers, which draw away the Sap that should ascend to the Branches for their nourishment, and at [ 60] four or five Years of Age the Heads should be Lopped, which will make them grow the bet∣ter.

The Willow is of great profit, and useful for divers occasions, besides for Fewel; so that 'tis ob∣served that a Willow will buy a Horse, before an Oak will buy a Saddle.

The WITHY is a larg Tree, and should be planted on high Banks, by reason their Roots run very deep in the Earth.

The SALLY is a very quick grower, and delights in Moorish Grounds, as the Wil∣low.

The OSIER requirs constant Moisture, and therefore must be planted in such places that are subject to frequent overflowings. They are rais∣ed from the Shoots or Sets that should be cut a∣bout February, and thrust into the Ground, much after the way as the Willow-Sets. They are very profitable and used by Basket-makers, Gardiners, &c. an Acre being esteemed to be worth as much as an Acre of Wheat.

Of TREES for FENCING.

FEncing and enclosing of Ground being of such great benefit as already hath been dis∣coursed, it will be necessary to treat of such Trees as are requisite for the same, with Directions how to raise, and order them; and first of the White-Thorn.

The WHITE-THORN is esteemed the best for Fencing, being a strong and durable Hedge; 'tis to be raised from Plants, or by sowing the Haws in Beds dug and prepared, as before dire∣cted, and from thence (when sprung up) to be Transplanted, which is the surest and best way; for the Garden-Quick (being that which is sowen) is esteemed far before the Plants drawn up in Hedg-rows and Fields, and will thrive much be∣ter, as being young and not stunted. The best way to set your Quick sets is on the flat, the Ground being well dug and finely ordered, and let the Bor∣dure consist of three Rows, and your Sets plan∣ted at about nine Inches distance, which will make a stout Hedge; If you are not well sto∣red with Quick sets, two Rows may serve. Be sure to keep the Bordure clean weeded, and ho∣ed, which is a great furtherance to their grow∣ing; otherwise they will be choaked up. After two Seasons you may cut them, which will cause them to shoot out the better, and thicker; and if the Season is dry, forget not to water them, which is a great preserver. And lastly provision, must be made to preserve them from the Injuries of Cattle, by raising Fences on each side, if it so requires. The common way to plant Quick is on the Bank, and a Hedge on the Top, which is not so good, for these reasons; First, being on the dry Bank the Sun hath more power, and so siccicates the Earth, that there is not that Mois∣ture to nourish the Quick, as that planted on the Flat. Secondly, The Bank being shelving, that Rain in the Summer Season that should refresh it, falleth away into the Ditch; and Thirdly, In the Winter Season, which generally is wet, the Drippings that fall from the Hedge planted on the Top of the Bank, do kill it; And these are the Reasons why there is so many Gawls in those Hedges, which are not to be seen in those planted on the Flat.

The BLACK-THORN is a good Fence, and raised as the White-Thorn.

The HOLLY, for sight, ornament and de∣fence,

is by many preferred; before the White-Thorn, being always green, and so thick that it is not to be seen through; the only fault is, 'tis very slow in growing. It is raised of the Ber∣ries, and of Sets, as the White-Thorn; but the Sets are more difficult to grow, unless they are planted late in the Spring, and well watered.

The PYRACANTHA is an excellent Fence, having strong prickly Branches, and the Leaves are always green. It is quick of growth, and [ 10] easie to be raised, either from the bright Coralline-Berries, which hang most part of the Winter on the Trees, or from Suckers or Slips. The Ber∣ries lye in the Ground as long as those of the White-Thorn.

The ELDER makes a good Fence for a Shelter, but not for Security, as not being so thick: the Cuttings set will grow, being kept wa∣tered.

The FVRZES, called Devonshire Furzes, [ 20] make a stout Fence, and so strong, that nothing can enter it. The best way for raising this Fence, is to dig the Ground where you intend your Fence, and sow the Seed in Rows, made with a Rill-Plough, or with a Hoe; three or four Rows are sufficient. This will grow upon a dry Bank, and be far better than any dead Hedge.

If you have any barren Ground, not worth Plowing and Sowing, it is good Improvement to Plow and Sow it with Furz-seed for Fewelling, [ 30] as for Brewing, Baking, or the like uses.

All these sorts of Hedges are to be ordered and kept, as before directed for the White-Thorn.

Of Trees for Ornament of Gardens, Ave∣nues, Parks, and the like.

THe LIME is of all Trees the most beau∣tiful [ 40] for Walks, and most uniform both as to its height and spreading Branches; and if set near together, affords a pleasant dark Shade; Its Blossoms in June and July are very fragrant and pleasing to the Scent.

It delights in a good rich and deep Soil: 'Tis raised from Seeds or Berries that drop from the Trees in Autumn, as also from Suckers, as the Elm-Tree is.

For the greater Ornament they are Cut or [ 50] Headed at about eight Foot high, that thereby all the Trees may be of an equal Height; but it suf∣fered to mount up without checking, they will become very tall in a short time, being quick growers.

The SYCAMORE is a Tree that delights in any indifferent or light Ground, but rather in a moist than dry. It is raised of the Keys, and sown in Autumn, when they fall from the Trees, which will come up the next Spring, being of a [ 60] speedy growth. Also Sets out from the Trees will grow, if set in moist Ground, and kept wa∣tered.

The FIR, PINE, PINASTER, and PITCH-TREE, delights in cold, high, and rocky Mountains; but Ground that is hot, dry, and sandy, is not good; they are raised of the Kernels taken out of the Clogs, which being laid in Water some Days, and then laid before some gentle Fire, will open so that you may get out the Seeds, which must be sown in Beds, as before directed for other sorts.

The Fir may be raised from Slips, it groweth lofty and streight; but the Pinaster bears the proudest and stateliest Branches, and hath a fairer and more beautiful Leaf.

Out of these Trees are made Turpentine, Rosin, Pitch, and Tar,

The HORSE-CHES NVT prospers well in England, delighting in Ground that is not too dry; the best is a rich Garden-Mould. It is a quick grower, being raised by Layers, and affords a pleasant sight in the Spring, when its Turpen∣tine Buds put forth into curious Leaves, and bears a Cluster of fine Flowers.

The LOCVS, LARCH, and PLANTA∣NVS, are not in much esteem amongst us; but afford an excellent Shade.

The CYPRESS is a curious Tree, and de∣lights most in a warm and dry Ground. It is raised from the Seed, sown in March, and well endures removing, and may be brought to grow in any fashion, either Pyramidal, which is the usual way, or in Hedges kept clipt.

The CAEDAR is a Tree not common amongst us, but grows in great plenty in America. It is raised of the Seeds, and may grow in our Cli∣mate, being a beautiful Tree.

The EVGH-TREE is an Ever-green, most commonly growing in Church-yards. 'Tis raised from the Seeds sown in Beds, which will not come up till the second Year. It is also raised of Suckers or Plants, but is difficult to grow. The Wood is very hard, and fit for divers curious Works.

The BAY-TREE delights to grow best in the Shade, like unto the Lawrel; yet it will grow in most Places and Soils. It is raised from Seeds, Suckers, Sets, or Layers, as the Law∣rel.

The PRIVET hath been formerly more used than at present for Hedges between Walks, as also for Arbors, being an Ever-green.

The PHILLYREA is a beautiful Plant, always in its Verdure, and now much used in Hedges, Arbors, or the like, instead of Privet: It delights in a warm fertil Soyl; 'tis a very quick grower, and may be raised of the Seeds or Berries, sown in the Spring; as also of the Slips, set like the Slips of Box.

The ALATERNVS prospers well in this Kingdom; It is very beautiful and useful for Hedges and Arbors, being green, with an early Blossom. 'Tis raised from Seeds, and is a swift grower.

Certain Rules to be observed for the better rasing the aforesaid Trees in way of Nur∣sery.

ALthough Trees may be raised by Suckers, Sets, Slips, and the like, yet the best and surest way is from the Seed; for they take Root

soonest, and thrive far faster, which is contrary to most Fruit-Trees, and make the streightest and fairest Trees.

The best time for sowing your Seeds is in the Spring, for then neither the Coldness of the Winter, nor the Mice and other Vermin will pre∣judice them; and for the better preserving them from drying, rotting or decaying, you may put them into Pots or Vessels, with a mixture of Earth or Sand not too dry, and at the Spring you [ 10] will find them sprouted, and be as forward as if sown in Autumn.

The Masts, or Seeds that you design to sow should be taken from good thriving Trees, with sound Stocks; also the Seed should be weighty, clean, and bright.

The Ground for your Nursery should be well fenced in, and sheltered from the North and East Winds, and of a Soyl something dry; for Trees will better thrive, being removed out of dry into [ 20] moist Ground, than out of moist into dry. The Ground must be well dug, and brought to a fine mellow Mould, and clear from Weeds. Being thus prepared, sow your Seeds in small Furrows or Trenches, about five Inches deep, and about two Foot broad, with a convenient distance be∣twixt, for the better wedding and dressing the young Sets, and cover them over with Earth with a Garden-Rake, and let every sort of Seed be sown apart. [ 30]

The place where you sow your Firs, Cypresses, Pines, and other tender Winter-Greens, should be sheltered from the cold Winds, and such Seeds should not be sown above an Inch deep, and finely covered over with sifted Mould; and for the more convenient removal of the Pine, you may set two or three Seeds in an Earthen Pot without a Bottom, filled with rich Mould, set∣ting them into the Ground up to the Brims. When they grow, leave only one, which in two [ 40] or three Years growth may be removed without hazard, and in time the Plant will rid it self of the Pot.

These young Plants must be carefully kept from Weeds, and in a dry Season water them. In the cold Winter Season you may lay over them some Bushes or Furzes, with Straw scattered over to preserve them from the cold Winds.

For the raising a Coppice from Masts or Seeds, let the Ground be well Ploughed, as if for Corn, and sow it with Winter Corn, mixt with your [ 50] Mast, Nuts, Berries, and Seeds that you intend to sow; Let the Corn be reaped high, for the Stubble is a great preservative of the young Shoots in the Winter, and so lay it up for a Coppice, fencing it about that Cattle annoy it not.

Concerning Transplanting Trees.

THe best Season for Transplanting of Trees, [ 60] is soon after the Fall of the Leaf; but they may be removed any time after in open Weather, until February.

Cut not off the Tops of the Ash, Lyme, Syca∣more, and the like Trees that are pithy, the first Year of their removal, because the Wet will be apt to perish them; neither cut off the Heads, not too many of the Branches or Roots of the Firs, Pines, or the like Trees, by reason of their aptness to spend their Gum, which is very injurious to them.

In the transplanting of the Suckers Cions, Layers or Slips of the Lime, Elm, Horse-Chesnut, Birch and such like Trees so propagated, you are to observe the same Season, and Method as you do in the removal of the young Seedlings of the other Trees; only that for the sliping or lay∣ing of such Branches of Trees that had not be∣fore taken any Wet, the best time is in the Top of the Spring, when the Sap is newly risen, and the Trees ready to Bud.

All Ever-Greens are to be removed in the Spring, for the Cold would kill them before they come to draw Root.

All Aquaticks, as the Willow, Poplar, Osier, Al∣der, Aspen, Withy; and the like, that are raised of Sets, are to be planted in the Months of January and February.

In transplanting be careful to preserve the smallest Roots that gather the Sap, and in filling the Earth about the Roots keep them to a Level, with Earth between them; for the well setling these Roots conduceth much to the thriving of the Tree; and leave as much of the Root as you can, cuting only the Top-Root, or down right Roots, spreading the rest every way, that they may the better get nourishment for the Tree.

Plant not too deep, nor below the good Earth into Gravel, Clay, Sand, Water, or the like, but rather very shallow, and raise up the Earth about the Trees in Hillocks, and as near as you can transplant into better Mould, as be∣fore directed; and the Holes ought to be made larger and deeper than the Tree riquires, to the end it may be filled up with loose Earth, which is better for the young Roots to Earth in.

In the setting your Trees, you ought to ob∣serve a Distance answerable to the sort of Trees, as the Oak, Walnut, and such like spreading Trees should be planted at greater distances, at least forty Foot asunder. The Chesnut, Ash, Beech, Fir, &c. may stand something nearer, and the Elm, Hornbeam, as also the Aquaticks, will grow very near, even to touch one another.

If you water your Trees soon after their Trans∣planting, it conduceth much to their growing, setling the Earth about the Roots, except it be in an extream cold Season, and the Plant of a ten∣der kind; however be not wanting of watering any Sort in a dry Season the first Summer after their planting. And if the Trees have been car∣ried far, and kept long out of the Ground, al∣though bound about the Roots with Straw Fern, Mat, or the like, as is usual; the best way to revive them is to lay them in Water some time before their Planting.

For the preservation of your Trees from Cat∣tle it is convenient to Fence them about with Bushes, Boards, Rails or the like, with a Stake for keeping the Tree fixt, that the Wind may not loosen it at the Root; and when you fasten the Tree to the Stalk, fix some Moss, Hay, or the like to preserve it from gauling.

For the better preserving of your young Trees from the heat of the Summer or of the Winter, lay about the Roots Fern, Mushy Straw, Hay or the like; also Stones are very good for the same purpose, and keep the Trees fast at the Roots from shaking with the Wind.

Of Pruning, Cutting, Shrouding and Fel∣ling of Trees and Coppices. [ 10]

Pruning of Trees is the taking off all Super∣fluous, and dead Branches, which is a great be∣nefit to the Tree; for the doing of which the best Season is in (and about) January, and rather whilst the Trees and Young, than otherwise; this is to be performed with a Sharp Bill, or Ax, making your Strokes upwards, to prevent the slit∣ting of the Tree, or Bark, at the fall of the Branch, and be sure cut it off clean, smooth, and close; [ 20] for by cutting it otherwise the Stump rotting, will leave a hollow Hole which will decay the Tree.

Those Trees not fit for Timber, but such that are designed for present use, for Fewel, &c. may be Lopped, or Shrouded at convenient sea∣sons.

The harder Woods may be Lopped at any time during the Winter season, but the Elm, the Ash, and such like Pithy and soft Woods, are [ 30] best to be Lopped in the beginning of the Spring, least the Winter Injure the Tree; and it is not good, to Lop them too often; once in ten, or twelve Years being sufficient; and for preser∣ving the Trees from decaying, cut the remaining Stumps aslope, and smooth, as before directed, that they may cast off the Water which rots them.

Take not off the Head of any Aquatick, (be∣fore Unlopped) growing upright and smooth af∣ter [ 40] they are about the bigness of a Mans Leg, unless you have some Collateral Shoots to draw up the Sap; for it will endanger the Tree.

These Aquaticks may be Cut, or Lopped every four or five Years, but cut them not too near the main Stock, which oft times occasions the dy∣ing of the Tree; especially if too great Lops; also it hinders new Shoots. You may Lop them in February, or the beginning of March, if designed for Sets, otherwise in the Winter before the Sap [ 50] begins to rise.

The Growth of Coppices is various, according to the Nature of the Ground, so that no prefixt time can be set for the time of their standing be∣twixt Felling and Felling, for in some Grounds the Wood will be at a good growth at nine Years; in others at ten, eleven or twelve; whereas in o∣thers not until fifteen or more, so that the bigness of the Wood must be your direction, which when grown to an indifferent size, should be fel∣led, [ 60] for after that it will not grow so fast as at the first.

The Season for falling Coppices is from Mid-September to Mid-March, and let no Carts and Horses come into the Wood after March, for fear of breaking, or bruising the young Cions; and al∣so let your Woods be fenced and preserved from Cattle cropping the young Shoots in the Spring, which is a very great injury; for it will Stunt them. Cut not above half a Foot from the Ground, and slopewise, triming up such as you spare for Stand∣ards, which may be left at the discretion of an understanding Wood-Man.

If any Coppice hath been neglected and receiv∣ed injury by the browzing of Cattle, or the like, so that you perceive the Wood to be stunted, the best way is to fell it down, for let it stand never so long it will not thrive; and after the felling by due care and well ordering, it will thrive as well as any other.

For the Felling of Timber-Trees you should consider if they are of full growth; for after that it is ill Husbandry to let them stand, but for the preservation of the growth, and encrease thereof for future Ages, it is good Husbandry to plant two young ones for every one felled. Next, the time of year is to be considered; for if you design your Timber for Sale, then the best time for Oaks is from Mid-April to Midsummer, the Sap being then up, so that the Bark will run, which is considerable advantage, being bought up by Tanners: And if I am not mistaken there is a Statute prohibiting the felling of Oaks but at such a Season when the Bark will run, but for all Timbers Trees the Winter season whilst the Sap is down is best.

If you would have Oaken Timber for your own use, then fell it in December, or January, at which time it is clearest of Sap, so that it will not be so much subject to the Worm, neither will it cast, twine, or rift, as if cut in the Summer, and it will also last longer in any Building, and not be so apt to yeild under a burthen, for the more Sap is in it, the sooner will it rot and decay.

Fell your Timber Trees not in the increase not full of the Moon, nor in windy Weather, for that oft times Spoyls the Tree.

If you design to reserve the Roots in the Earth, for a new encrease of Suckers, then fell the Tree as near the Earth as you can, for that is the best Timber; otherwise grub up all the Roots.

CHAP. XII.

Of the several sorts of Beasts, Fowls, and Insects, necessary to be kept, and the great Benefit accruing thereby.

THe Country Mans chief Benefit consists in the well stocking his Grounds, with Cattle, Fowls, and Insects; I shall in this Chapter, take Notice of those of most use and profit, omitting the Horse (which may justly claim, Preheminence of of all others,) as having already treated thereof, more at large in the Treatise of Horsmanship, and shall therefore begin with the Ox, and Cow;

The best Cows and Oxen are bred in the Coun∣ties of York, Darby, Lancaster, Stafford, Lincoln, Glocester, and Somerset, both for largness and neatness of shape. Those bred in York-shire, Darby-shire, Lancashire, and Stafford-shire are generally black, with large well spread Horns; Those bred in Lincoln-shire are for the most part pide, very tall and large, and most fit for labour; Those bred in Somerset-shire, and Glocester-shire, are generally red, and for Shape much like those of Lincon-shire; [ 10] Wilt-shire breeds large Cattle, but ill Shaped Hornes and Heads. Now for the breeding of Store-Cattle, 'tis not good to mix those that are Red with the Black ones, for their Shapes and Colours are so contrary, that their Issue will be very uncomely to the Eye.

Now for as much as the Males of all Crea∣tures are the principal in the Breed and Genera∣tion, therefore great care ought to be taken in the choise of the Bull, which for a curious Shape [ 20] should be as followeth; He should be of a quick and sharp Countenance, his Horns the larger the better, his Neck fleshy, with a broad and curled Forehead, his Ears rough within, with Hair like Velvet, his Eyes black and large, his Muzel large and broad at the upper Lip, but narrow and small at the neather, his Nostrils wide and open, his Dew lap extending from his nether Lip down to his Fore-booths large, thin and hairy, his Shoul∣ders large, broad and deep, his Breast rough and [ 30] big, his Back strait and flat, even to the setting on of his Tayl, which should stand high, of a good Length and bush-haired; his Ribs broad and wide, his Belly long and large, his Huckle-bones round, making his Buttocks Square, his Thighs round and well trust, his Legs strait and short joynted, his Knees round and big, and his Hooves long and hollow. And having a Bull with these good Shapes, or as many of them as you can, you need not doubt of a good Breed, [ 40] provided your Cows are tolerable good.

COWS.

The COW should be chosen of the same Countrey as the Bull, and as near as you can of the same Colour, only her Vdder should be white, with four Tetts and no more, and not fleshy, but large and lank, and such a one will prove good to the Pail; her Belly should be [ 50] round and large, her Fore-head broad and smooth, with well spread Horns. The Cow affords great profit, as well for the Darie, as for Breed to those that have good store of Ground, and Fod∣der; for there is no greater profit to be made than by Cows, either in raising and breeding them up, or by buying them when in Calf, and selling them with their Calf by their sides, especially near London.

The Dutch Cows are very good for the Pail, [ 60] giving as much as two ordinary English ones, be∣ing a large sort, much like an Ox, but ill shaped Heads and Horns; they commonly bring two Calves at a time.

The Red Cows Milk is esteemed the best, but the Black ones brings the best Calves. The youn∣ger the Cow, the better for Breed. That Cow that giveth Milk longest, is best both for the Dary, and for Breed; for those that go long dry are not so teeming.

CALVES may be bread these too ways; The one to let them run with their Dams all the Year, which maketh the best Calves, but is not so profitable, as losing the Cows Milk; The o∣ther to take them from their Dams after ten or twelve Weeks; but for a Fortnight before you wean them, let them have some Water put into Milk luke-warm to drink; then they are fit, if in the Spring or Summer season to put out to Grass, which must be short and sweet, by no means rank; But if in the Winter season, to be fed with fine, sweet and soft Hay, which put into low Racks, that they may learn to feed thereon; and it were not amiss to House your Calves the first Winter in the cold Nights. It is customary with some to take the Calves from their Dams after the first sucking, and so to bring them up by Hand with flit Milk, made only luke∣warm; for to give them that which is hot is very dangerous; but this way I hold troublesome. These Calves that are Calved in four or five Days after the change of the Moon, are not good to rear; but sell them off to the Butcher; and the best time to rear Calves, is from Michaelmass to Candlemass. Those Male Calves that you in∣tend for Oxen, the best Season to geld them is in the old of the Moon, and when they are fifteen or twenty days old, for then there is least danger; and the Ox is said to be higher and larger of Body, and longer Horned.

The OX is a very profitable Beast; for besides the great benefit made by them when fat∣ted for the Butcher, they perform the Office of the Horse, both for Ploughing and Carting, and therefore are much used in divers parts of this Kingdom; and those that once make use of them, seldom quit their Service, for that of the Horse; for they require not that care and charge in keeping; and when they grow old, are fatted for the Butcher, so that there is not that loss, as by Horses, nor are they subject to so many Dis∣eases; 'Tis true, they are slower in their Work, but will perform as much with the allowance of more time, and that fault may be easily born with. The larger your Oxen are, the better both for Draught and Feeding. In matching your Oxen for the Yoak, they should be as near as possi∣ble of an equal size, strength and Spirit; for the stronger (without great care of the Driver) will wrong the weaker, and the duller will injure the free spirited; and those Oxen are fittest for the Yoak which are of the gentlest nature. By no means put your Oxen beyond their ordinary pace, for that causeth heat, which breeds Surfeits, which is found very prejudicial unto them, even sometimes with the loss of their lives. Their Food is but ordinary, Barly, Oates, or Peasestraw, will suffice them, and sometimes for change some Hay mixt amongst the Fodder.

For the Oxen bred for the Butcher, see that they are always lusty and healthful, which you may know by a good Tayl, and a good Pyzle, for if the Hair of one or both be lost, he is a waster, and will be long in feeding. If they lick them∣selves

all over, 'tis a good sign they are fit for the Butcher, and will feed, shewing soundness, and that they take joy in themselves; yet whilst they so lick themselves they feed not, therefore if you lay their own Dung upon their Hides, it will cause them to leave li••king, and fall to ••eeding.

For the knowledge of a fat Beast, handle his hindmost Rib; and if it be soft and loose like Down, it shews he is outwardly well fed; the like doth soft Huckle-bones, and a big Neck round [ 10] and knotty; if his Cod be big and full, it shews he is well Tallowed, and so doth the Crop behind the Shoulders: If it be a Cow, handle her Navel, and if that be big, round and soft, 'tis a sign she is well Tallowed. Many other Observations there are to know fat Cattle, but these shall suf∣fice.

Directions to keep Beasts and other Cat∣tle. [ 20]

FOr keeping of Cattle to the most advantage there should be several Closes of Pasture Ground to put them in, which should be well en∣closed and fenced about with Ditches or Hedges, the better to sever and keep apart the greatest and strongest Cattle from the weak and small ones, especially in the Winter, when they are foddred; for if all sorts and sizes go together, the great [ 30] and strong ones will over-master the others, driving them from place to place, and trampling and spoyling more Fodder than they eat; And by being Foddred abroad, if severed as afore∣said, far less will serve them than if kept at House, and the Cattle will thrive the better; besides it is an improvement to the Ground.

How to dispose of Cattle at Pasture.

NEither Cattle, Horse, or Sheep put into a [ 40] Field alone, will eat down the Pasture e∣ven, except it be overstockt, and that is not good; therefore 'tis convenient to put Horses and Beasts together, for there is some Grass that an Horse will eat that a Beast will not: But Horses and Sheep will not agree well together, both being sweet Feeders, and close Biters. Milch-Cows and Draught-Oxen feed closer and barer than those that are Fat.

If a Milch-Cow have too much Meat, and grow [ 50] fat, she will abate her Milk, and go to Bull; and if a Cow be fat at her Calving it endangers the hurting her; and where there is too much Grass the Cattle feed the worser, for a Bite to the Earth is sufficient; for if it be long they will bite off the Top and no more, for that is sweet, and the other lieth on the Ground and rots, so that no Beast will eat it, but Horses in the Winter. [ 60]

Rules for Buying Cattle.

IF you would buy Oxen for the Plough, let them be young, and free from Diseases, nor broken of Hair, Tail, or Pizle. If Cows for the Pail, let them be also young, well shaped, thin Skin'd, with good Dugs and Vdders. In buying Lean Oxen for Graising, chuse those that are young, or at least those that are well Mouthed, and not wanting any Teeth; also such that have broad Ribs, a thick Hide, and loose Skin'd. Also in buying Cattle either fat or lean, endea∣vour to know where they were bred; for if they come off from better Ground than that you design them for, they will not thrive, but rather grow worse, and likewise see if they are free from Murren, or any Disease.

Now for the preservation of Cattle in good health, it is good to let them Blood (except the Calves) every Spring and Fall, the Moon being in any of the lower Signs; and also to give them a Drench made of the Pickle of Olives, mixed with an Head of Garlick bruised therein: And for your Calves, let them not go too early to Grass. But Diseases being common amongst Cat∣tle, I shall take notice of some of the most com∣mon, with Directions for their Cure.

DISEASES.

Of the Fever.

THis Distemper proceeds either from a Flux of cold Humors engendred through cold keeping, or from a Surfeit of Food that is raw and musty. The Signs of this Disease are a foaming at the Mouth, a Trembling, heavy Eyes. and Groaning: For Cure, First let Blood, then give a Drench of about a Quart of Ale, boiled with three or four Roots of Plantin, and two Spoon∣fuls of the best London-Treacle, and also sprinkle the Hay with Water.

Of any Inward Sickness in Cattle.

FOr any inward Sickness, or Drooping, Take a Quart of strong Ale, in which boil an handful of Wormwood, and half an handful of Rue; then strain it, and put therein two Spoonfuls of the Juice of Garlick, with the like quantity of the Juice of House-leek, as also of London-Treacle, which give the Beast to drink luke-warm in a Drenching-Horn.

Diseases in the Gats, as Costiveness, Cholick, Flux, &c.

FOr the Flux, Take an handful of Wood-Rose-Seeds, dried and beaten to Powder, this brew in a Quart of strong Ale, and give it to drink; but if the Beast is dry and costive, take an handful of Fenugreek, which boyl in a Quart of Ale, and give it him to drink luke-warm. And for the Cholick, Belly-ake, or Gnawing in the Guts, boyl in the Water that he drinks good store of Oyl.

Pissing of Blood.

THis Disease proceeds either from over-labour, or sowre-feeding; for Cure, Take Shepherds-Purse and boyl it in a Quart of Red Wine; then strain it, and put thereto a little Ci∣namon, and so give it to drink.

Of any Swelling in a Beast.

FOr any outward Swelling, bathe the place with Oyl and Vinegar exceeding hot, which will asswage it; but if the Swelling be inward, then boyl in the Water round Aristolochia.

For a Cough, or Shortness of Breath. [ 10]

GIve the Beast for several Mornings together, one or two Spoonfuls of Tar, dissolved in a Quart of new Milk, with an Head of Garlick bruised therein.

Diseases in the Lungs.

THe Lungs of Cattle are much subject to Sickness, which doth appear by much panting and shortness of Breath, with a continual [ 20] Coughing. This Disease is cured by the aforesaid Drink, prescribed for a Cough.

Loss of the Cud.

TO recover the Cud, Take a little sowre Leaven and Loam, of which make a pret∣ty big Ball, which cause the Beast to swallow.

To kill Worms. [ 30]

TAke Savin, chopt small, and mix it with sweet Butter, and so give it in round Balls. And if you give the Beast some sweet Wort, mixt with a little Black-Soap, in a Drenching-Horn, it will cause him to void the Worms.

Vomiting of Blood.

THis Disease proceeds through rankness of [ 40] Blood, got in rich Pasture after hard keep∣ing, insomuch that the Blood will be seen to flow from his Mouth. For Cure, First let the Beast Blood, and then give to drink Bolearmoniack and Ale mixt together.

To cause a Beast to Piss.

STeep Smallage, or the Roots of Raddish, in a Quart of Ale, and give it to drink is pre∣sent [ 50] help.

The Overflowing of the Gall.

THis Disease is known by the yellowness of the Eyes and Skin. For Cure, Give him a Quart of Milk, with Saffron and Turmerick mixt together, to drink after letting Blood; and this do three Mornings together. [ 60]

A Cow that is Whetherd.

THis is occasioned when a Cow after her Calving can't cast her Gleaning. Now to cause her to Cast it, take the Juice of Bettony, Mugwort, and Mallows, of each three Spoonfuls, which mix in a Quart of Ale, and give it her to drink: Also give her to eat scorched Barly, and it will cause her to void it.

Of Purging Cattle.

THere is no Medicine purgeth better than Tar, Butter, and Sugar Candy mixt together, and given in pretty big Balls.

Of faintness in Labour in an Ox.

IF in the heat of the Day, or in his Labour he doth faint, loose him, and drive him to some runing Stream to drink; then give him two or three Ospines full of parched Barley to eat, and he will soon fall to his Labour again.

Breeding Milk in Cows.

IF after her Calving she can't let down her Milk, give her a Quart of strong Posset-Ale, mixt with Anniseeds and Coriander-seeds beaten to Powder every Morning for some time, which will not only bring down her Milk, but much in∣crease it.

Of the Rot in Cattle.

THis Disease is known by their Leaness, and continually Scouring. Take Bay-berries beaten to Powder, Ivy-Leaves, Featherfew, Myrh, and Elder-Leaves, a good lump of dry Clay and Bay-Salt; mix these together in strong Vrine. Of this give the Beast to drink luke-warm about half a Pint, and it will preserve them.

Of Wounds in Cattle.

TO Cure any Disease given by Edge-Tools, or otherwise, where the Skin is broke; Take Hogs-grease, Turpentine, Tar, and Wax, of each a like quantity, with a quarter so much of Verdi∣grease; melt all these together into a Salve, which spread upon a Cloth, and lay to the Wound.

To Cure a Beast that is Goared by another, or by a Stake.

TAke Turpentine and Oyl, heat them, and so Tent the Wound therewith.

To draw out a Thorn, or Stub.

TAke black Snails and black Soap, beat them to a Salve, and so apply them to the Soar.

Diseases in the Eyes, as the Haw, a Stroak, Inflam∣mation, Pin, or Web.

FOr any general Soarness in the Eyes, Take the Water of Eyebright, mixt with the Juice of House-leek, and wash them therewith. If a Haw breed therein, then cut it out, which is easie to do: But if for a Stroak, Inflammation, Pin, or Web, take a new laid Egg, put out half the White, and fill it up with Salt and a little Gin∣ger; then Roast it very hard, and beat it to

Powder Shell and all: Of this Powder put into the Beasts Eye, and it will cure it.

Of Diseases in the Neck, as Bruised, Gauled, Swoln, &c.

IF any Oxes Neck hath any of the said Infir∣mities, occasioned by the Yoak, Take the Leaves of round Aristolochia, which beat in a Mortar with Tallow, or fresh Grease, and anoint [ 10] the place therewith.

Of Leaness of Cattle.

WHen Cattle fall away, which may be known by their Hair, First, let Blood; then take sweet Butter, and beat it in a Mortar with a little Myrh and the Shavings of Ivory, and cause him to swallow down two or three of the said Balls fasting; and if it be in the Winter, feed [ 20] him with sweet Hay.

The Murrain in Cattle.

THis Disease proceeds from divers Causes, as from rankness of Blood, or Feeding, from corruption of the Air, from Floods, In∣temperateness of the Weather, or from Infection of other Cattle. To prevent or cure this Dis∣ease, give all your Cattle (as well the sound as sick) [ 30] this following Medicine: Take of old Vrine a Quart, mix it with an handful of Hens-Dung dissolved therein, and give it them to Drink.

Of the Worm in the Tail.

FOr Cure, wash the Tail in strong Lye made of Vrine and Ashen Wood-Ashes.

Diseases in the Sinews, as Weakness, Stiffness, or [ 40] Soreness.

FOr Cure, Take Mallows and Checkweed, which boyl in the Dregs of Ale, or in Vine∣gar, and being very hot lay it to the place grieved.

Of Hide-Boundness.

THis Disease is occasioned through over∣much Labour, and ill Keeping: For Cure, [ 50] First let Blood, then give him to drink a Quart of Ale brewed with Myrh, and the Powder of Bay-berries, or of the Leaves. You must keep him warm, giving him Hay that is a little Mow burnt, which will cause him to drink, and Drink will cause his Skin to loosen.

Of Biting with a Mad Dog, or any other Venemous Creature. [ 60]

FOr Cure, Take Plantain, which beat in a Mortar with Bolearmoniack, Sanguis-Draconis, Barly-Meal, and the Whites of Eggs; This make up into a Plaister, and apply to the Soar, renew∣ing it once a Day.

Of the Foul, or any other Grief in the Hoof.

TAke Mugwort, beat it in a Mortar with hard Tallow, and apply it to the Hoof. Also cast the Beast, and with a Hay-Rope rub so hard be∣tween the Hoof that you make it bleed; then anoint the place with Tar, Turpentine, and Kitching-Fee mixt together; then bind up the Hoof, and keep him out of the Dirt.

Of Lice and Ticks.

BEasts that are bred in Woods under Dropings of Trees, or in barren unwholsom places, are subject to Lice, and Ticks. For Cure, Anoint their Body with fresh Grease, Pepper, Stavesacre, and Quicksilver, beaten together until the Quick∣silver be killed.

SHEEP.

SHEEP deserve the next place, if not the priority, for the great benefit accuring there∣by (especially if Fortune favours to keep them Sound) in a threefold manner; First for Food, next by their Wool for Clothing, and thirdly by Dunging and Manuring the Ground, being Foulded thereon, to the great enrichment thereof.

Therefore if you will stock your self with good Sheep, you must have regard to the na∣ture of the Soil where you dwell; for accord∣ing to the Earth and Air, Sheep do alter their natures and properties; the barren Sheep be∣coming good in rich Soils, and the good Sheep barren in ill Soils; so that if you would have Sheep of a fine Staple of Wool, buy those of Herefordshire, about Lempster parts; also in that part of Worcestershire bordering on Shropshire; yet these Sheep are very little of Bone, are black Fac'd, and bear small Fleeces. The Sheep about Cotsal-Hills are better Bond', Shape, and Burthen; but their Staple is courser and deeper. The Sheep in that part of Worcestershire joyning to Warwickshire, and many parts of Warwickshire, also all Leicestershire, Buckinghamshire, with part of Northamptonshire, and that part of Notingham∣shire which is exempt from Sherwood Forest, are large Boned, are of a good Shape and deepest Sta∣ple, especially if they be Pasture Sheep; but their Wool is courser than that of Cotsal. Lincoln∣shire (especially in the Salt Marshes) have also large Sheep, but not the best Wool. All these large sized Sheep (especially Weathers) find good vent amongst the London Butchers, to the no small profit of the Grasier. The Sheep in Yorkshire, and so Northwards, are of reasonable big Bone, but of a Staple rough and hairy: And the Welsh Sheep are generally esteemed the worst of all, for they are both little, and of a worse Staple; but their Flesh is excellent for its sweet tast. The Sheep of Dorsetshire are esteemed for bringing two Lambs at a time, and are a good sized Sheep.

Therefore the Natures and Properties of the Sheep of the several Counties being known, when you intend to stock your Grounds be sure to

bring your Sheep from a worse Soil to a better, and not from a better to a worse; for the Ground or Lear on which the Sheep lieth, and gives him his Colour, is much to be regarded; the red Lear is esteemed the best; the Duskish that in∣clines to a little reddish is tollerable good, but the white or dirty Lear is altogether bad. In the choice therefore of your Sheep, chuse the biggest Boned, with the best Wool, provided your Ground be fit for them, as before taken notice [ 10] of.

In the choice of your Sheep for Breed, be sure have good Rams, for they either mar, or make a Flock; and for Shape, should be long and large of Body, with a broad and well rising Fore∣head, a chearful large Eye, broad Back'd, round Buttocks, a thick Tail, short joynted Legs, and his Body well covered over with thick Wool; and above all, 'tis the Opinion of some to chuse them without Horns, for the Dodder Sheep [ 20] prove the best Breeders, and their Issue doth never endanger the Ewes in Yeaning, as the Horned Sheep do.

The best time for your Ewes to Lamb in (if they be Pasture Sheep) is about the latter end of April, and so to the beginning of June; but if they be Field Sheep, then from the beginning of January to the end of March, to the end their Lambs may be strong and able before May-day, [ 30] to follow their Dams over the Fallow Grounds: For those that Lamb very early, require great care in looking after, with no small charge to bring them up at House with good Fodder.

About Michaelmass is a good time to Geld those that you design for Weathers; first making choice of the goodliest for Rams.

The best time to Sheer Sheep is from June to August, and always Wash them three days before Shearing. Ewes are generally good Breeders from three Years old, until their Mouths break. [ 40]

For the preservation of your Sheep, feed them for the generality upon high or Hilly Grounds, which are dry and fertil, with short but sweet Grass. But if you are constrained to feed on low and moist Grounds which are Infectious, then bring not your Sheep from the Fold until the Sun is risen, and that the Beams begin to exhale the Dew from the Earth; and then suffer them not to feed at first, but chase them gently up and down with your Dog until they are weary; and [ 50] this Chasing not only beateth away those Webs, Kells, and Mildews that hang upon the Grass, which occasions the Rotteness of a Sheep, but also stirreth up that Natural heat in a Sheep, which drinketh up and wasteth that Moisture which otherwise would turn to Rotteness; besides, a Sheep thus chased and wearied, will fall to his food with more deliberation.

If your Shepherd once in about a Month, or when he hath occasion to handle his Sheep, do [ 60] rub their Mouths with Bay-Salt, 'tis a great pre∣servative against Sickness. But forasmuch as Dis∣eases are common amongst them, I shall take notice of the Principal, with Directions for their Cure.

Signs to know a sound Sheep, as also an unsound one.

IF a Sheep be sound and in health, his Eyes will be bright and chearful, the White pure without Spot, and the Strings Red, his Gums also will be red, his Teeth white, his Skin on his Brisket red, his Skin in general will be loose, and his Wool fast set on. But if unsound, his Eyes will be heavy, pale, and spotted, his Breast and Gums white, his Teeth foul and yellow, and his Wool easie to pull off; and when he is dead, his Belly will be full of Water, his Fat yellow, his Liver putrified, and his Flesh moist and waterish.

Of Sickness in General, or the Fever amongst Sheep.

FOr Cure of this Distemper, change of Pasture is very profitable. Also, Take Puliol Royal, stamp it, and mix the Juice with Water and Vi∣negar, and give each of them about half a Pint in a Drenching-Horn luke-warm.

Of the General Scab, or Itch in Sheep.

THis is a common Disease, and proceedeth from Wet and Rainy Weather, so that if they be chaft or heated after the Wet hath fallen upon them, they commonly break forth into Scabs; and the usual Cure amongst Shepherds, is to anoint the place with Tar and Grease mixt together. But if at the first coming you wash their Skins with Puliol Royal steept in Water, it will prevent the runing into the Scab.

Killing Maggots in Sheep.

FOr Cure, Take Goose-Grease, Tar, and Brim∣stone, mixt together on the Fire, and anoint the place therewith.

Diseases in the Gall, as the Jaundies, Choler, &c.

THese Diseases are known by the yellowness of the Sheeps Skin. For Cure, Take Plan∣tain and Lettuce, stamp them together, and mix the Juice with Vinegar, and give to each Sheep about half a Pint to drink.

Of the Sturdy, Turning-Evil, or More-found.

THese Distempers proceed from rankness of Blood, which offends the Brain, and other inward Parts. For Cure, Let them Blood in the Eye-Veins, Temple-Veins, and through the No∣strils, and then rub the places with young Nettles bruised.

Of Broken Bones, or Bones out of Joynt.

FIrst, Set it strait and right; then bathe it with Oyl and Wine, and dip a Cloth in moulten Patchgrease, which roul about it; then Splint it as occasion shall serve, and so let it re∣main for about nine Days, and dress it again; and at the end of the next nine Days the Sheep will be able to go.

Of the Tag'd, or Belt Sheep.

THe Cure of this is, with a Pair of Sheers to cut away the Tags, laying the Soar bare

and raw; then strew dryed Earth upon it, and after that Tar and Goose-grease mixt together.

Of the Staggers.

THis Disease proceeds by Surfeiting on Haw∣thorn Leaves, Oak Leaves, or the like, which Lambs especially are very subject unto, and if not timely prevented is Mortal. For Cure, Take Asafetida dissolved in Water, and [ 10] put the quantity of half a Spoonful thereof in∣to each Ear of the Sheep, or Lamb.

Loose Teeth.

FIrst, let Blood in his Gums, and under his Tail; then rub his Teeth with Earth, Sage, and Salt.

The loss of the Cud. [ 20]

THat which restoreth the Cud to an Ox or a Cow, will do for a Sheep.

Of Worms in the Guts of Sheep, or Lambs.

THis Disease is known by their beating their Bellies with their Feet, and looking upon it. For Cure, Take the Leaves of Coriander stampt, mix the Juice with Honey, and give it him to drink; then chafe him a little, and keep [ 30] him from eating two or three hours.

Of Lung-sick, or any Cough or Cold.

THis Disease is known by its Coughing, and shortness of Breath. For Cure, Take Colts∣foot, and Lugwort stampt and strain'd, and the Juice mixt with a little Honey and Water, which give the Sheep to drink.

Diseases in the Eyes, as the How, Dinness, or any Soreness. [ 40]

TO Cure these Diseases, drop into the Eyes the Juice of Selandine.

To preserve Sheep from the Rot.

THis Disease is the worst of all, as being In∣fectious, therefore great care ought to be [ 50] had to prevent it, which may be done by care, and following these Directions. So soon as you find that any are tainted, Take Adraces, which is a certain Salt gathered from the Salt Marshes in the heat of Summer, when the Tide is going off, and leaving certain Drops of Salt Water on the Grass, which the heat of the Sun turns to Salt. With this Adraces rub the Mouths of all your Sheep once a Week, and it will preserve them sound. Of this Adraces great plenty is in Spain, [ 60] and may be easily made in divers parts of Eng∣land, where the Sea overflows at Tides.

To cause Ewes to be easily Delivered.

TAke Balsa-mint, or Horse-mint, and put ei∣ther the Powder, or the Juice thereof, into a little strong Ale, and give it her to drink, and she will soon Yean, or Lamb.

Of increasing Milk in Ewes.

NOthing encreaseth Milk more than change of Pasture, driving them sometimes on the Hills, and other times in the Vallies, and where the Grass is sweet.

To cause an Ewe to love her Lamb, or any others Lamb.

TAke a little of the Glean of the Ewe, and force her to eat it, or at least to chew it in her Mouth, and she will fall to love it. But if an Ewe hath cast her Lamb, and you would have her to take another Ewes Lamb, take the Lamb that is Dead, and with it rub and dawb all over the Live Lamb, and so put it to the Ewe, and she will take it naturally, as if her own, provided it be not too old.

Of any Sickness in Lambs.

GIve them Mares-Milk, or Goats-Milk, or its own Dams Milk mixt with Water to drink, and keep it very warm.

To know the Age of a Sheep.

LOok into his Mouth, and when he is one Shear he will have two broad Teeth before; when he is two Shear, he will have four such like broad Teeth; when he is three Shear, he will have six; and when he is four Shear, he will have eight, and after those Years his Mouth vvill be∣gin to break.

SWINE.

SWINE are of that great profit, that he that hath Sheep, Swine, and Bees, let him sleep or vvake is sure to thrive, being a great support to a Family, affording great variety of Meat, as Pigs, Pork, Bacon, and Brawn, besides their Offal, which is very good food. And Hogs require the least charge in keeping of any other Beast; for their Food is course and ordinary, being con∣tented vvith any thing, so that they have but their Bellies full, as Whey, Flit-Milk, Wash, Grains, Offal, Corn, Carots, Parsnips, Coleworts, Cabage-Leaves, Bean-tops, &c. And it vvere not amiss if a parcel of Land vvere planted vvith such like Garden Food, on purpose to feed them.

Now for the Keeping them, some are of Opinion, 'tis better to have a Hog-yard with Styes in it, and there to keep them penned up, than to have their liberty, for then they wast their Flesh, and will not fat so soon. Yet after Harvest, to let them have the benefit of eating up the Corn left on the Ground would be profitable. And some are of Opinion, that 'tis better to keep all Boars and Sows, and no Barrows; for a Boar will re∣quire as little keeping as a Barrow, and is much better, having more Meat in him, and if you

make it into Brawn is far dearer; and for Sows, before they are fit to kill, may bring more Pigs than they are worth, and notwithstanding be as fit for Bacon as Barrows, provided they are not too old, for a Sow will bring three Litters a Year, and commonly nine, ten, or twelve at a time; but the only reason against keeping too many, is the great trouble attended with the charge of bringing up the Pigs, either fit for the Market, or for Store. [ 10]

For the choice of your Swine, both Boars and Sows that you design for a Breed, let them be long and large of Body, deep Sided, and Bellied, thick Necks and Thighs, short Legs and thick Chined, well set with strong Bristles; as to their Co∣lour it matters not much, but the White, or Sandy are esteemed the best, the Pide being held the worst, as subject to the Meazles.

A Sow will brings Pigs from a year old until se∣ven; and the Pigs best to rear are those sarrow∣ed [ 02] in or or about Lent, and in Summer, for in Winter the cold doth much pinch them and keep them back; then having chosen out the best for Boars and Sows to breed on, Geld all the Males, and Spay the Females you design to Rear, for both will make the best Hogs for fatning, and yield more Lard.

For Fatning of Swine it differeth much, having regard to the Country where you dwell; for those that inhabit near Woods, and places where Mast [ 30] is plentiful, turn them unto the Mast for six, or eight Weeks, by which time they will be much improved as to Flesh, and then put them into Styes to fatten, with old dry Pease, which makes their Fat Firm and not to wast away in boyling. But Swine fatned with Acorns, or Ches∣nuts, or with Parsnips, makes the Flesh of an excellent sweet tast; and if in Salting you use Salt-Peter mixt with Bay-Salt, the Bacon will imitate that of the Westphalia. [ 40]

Those that dwell in Champain Countreys, or by Cities or great Towns, destitute of Wood for Mast, do use to put their Hogs they design to fat into Sties, and so feed them with Pease, Beans, Buck-Wheat, or such that they have; but Buck-Wheat is not good, making the Fat soft and subject much to wast, without they are kept some time before their killing only which Pease, or Beans; for midling sized Pork, three Weeks is enough to fatten them, and four Weeks for Bacon. [ 50]

To cause Hogs to thrive.

IF your Hogs do not thrive (which is seen by the staring of their Hair, and looking rugged) take half a Peck, or more of Ashes, boyl them into Lye; then cause such Hogs, to be laid upon a Form, and wash them with the Lye, and curry them with an old Curry-comb until you find all the Scruf washt from the Skin; then wash them with clean Water, and Strew [ 60] dry Ashes over them, and this will kill the Lice, and cause them to thrive extraordinarily. Now the greatest thing that hinders Hogs from thriving, is to let them lye in the Wet.

There is no Creature so timerous in Sickness as the Swine, insomuch that he forsakes his Meat, until he finds a Recovery. Now when you find your Swine to droop and forsake their Meat, first let them Blood under the Tayl, and Ears, and if they Bleed not well, beat them about, which will cause them to Bleed; the Wounds wrap up and keep warm, and give them to drink warm Wash, well mixt with Bearly Meal, and red Oaker.

The Murren.

THis Disease is very common and danger∣ous, if not early prevented: For Cure give them in their warm Wash, Hens-dung, and boyld Liverwort, with a little red Oaker.

The Meazles.

THis is also a common Disease, and easily cured; Take Urine that hath been some time made, and mix it with red Oaker, until it be thick, and about an Ale-quart; this mix with a Gallon of warm sweeet Whey, and give it them to drink, after they have been kept all Night fasting.

Of Leanness, Scurf, and the Mange.

THese diseases proceed from corrupt Blood oc∣casioned by scanty feeding, and lying wet; for Cure first let Blood under the Tayl; then with a Wool-Card, or Curry-comb rub them well over to fetch off all the Scurf and Filth un∣til they Bleed; then take Tarr, Hogs-grease and Brimstone, well mixt together, and anoynt them therewith; then cause good dry, sweet Straw to be put into their Stye, and let them have good warm Food, which will soon recover them, and canse them to thrive.

To Cure Swine that are lugged in their Ears by Dogs.

ANoynt the Ears with Vinegar, Sope and Tallow mixt together, and if through want of looking after they Breed Magots, take sweet Wort, or Honey, and anoynt the Sore there∣with, and the Magots will soon fall off and dye.

ASSES.

THe Ass is a very serviceable Beast for di∣vers affairs, and is kept with little or no Charge, by reason of their hardiness, mean feed∣ing, and worse looking after; they patiently enduring Hunger, Thirst, Labour and Blows, and were it not for their ill quality of Barking Trees, they would be more set by. Asses Milk is esteem∣ed an excellent restorative in a Consumption.

GOATS.

THis Beast is also very pernicious to keep, for their Barking of Trees, and other mis∣cheivous Tricks; so that I cannot recommend them to any to keep, but to such that live in rocky,

Mountainuos places, hardly fit for any thing else.

I should here treat of the Coney, which is a very profitable Creature, and a great help to a Family; but having discoursed thereof in a Chap∣ter at large in the Treatise of Hunting, I shall o∣mit it here, referring you to the same.

FOWL, or POVLTREY.

THere is no greater benefit than that which [ 10] ariseth by Fowl, and they are so absolute∣ly necessary, that a Countrey Habitation cannot be deemed compleat that is not well stored with them; and as to the charges in keeping them, 'tis inconsiderable, if the great profit that may be made thereby (if well ordered) be rightly con∣sidered, as well by their Eggs and Feathers, as by their Bodies, and young Chicken to the Poulteres; besides the supplying your own Table therewith; and to those that live within a Days Journey to [ 20] London, for a quick sale of them, there can be no greater benefit made than by Fowl, for they always meet with good Markets; also the Lon∣don Poulterers will be desirous to take them off your Hands.

Of the Hen-house, and it Situation.

THe Hen-house should be large, but with consi∣deration to the quantity of Fowl you [ 30] keep; let it be high rooft, and withal strong and secure built for preserving them from Thieves; and with Shuts to the Windows to keep out Vermine; let there be dispersed about it Pens or Coops for the Fowl to be put in that are with Egg; and those for Geese, and Turkeys must be larger and higher then for Hens; and on the sides of the Walls, and thwart the House in convenient pla∣ces should be long Perches for Cocks, Hens and Turkeys to Roost upon. As for the Geese and [ 40] Ducks they sit on the Ground, or in the Pens; and to the end the Fowl may the better get up to the Roosts, let there be Pins (that is short pie∣ces of Wood) drove into the Walls, with Steps, in imitation of Ladders, for them to hop up to the said Roosts, which are very commodious, es∣pecially for the young ones. Let not the Floor be paved, or boarded, but of Earth made smooth, and even like a Barn Floor. And it were conve∣nient to have a Hole made in the Groundsel for the Chickens, and young Fowl to come in and our [ 50] at, with a Shutter at night for the keeping out Vermin. The Coops, or Pens as very convenient to put in those Fowl, that by the Servant that tends them are found with Egg at night, to the end their Eggs may be preserved; for if they should be suffered to make Nests, and to lay a∣broad, not one in Ten would be found good, for they will be subject to Wesels, or the like Vermin; or if found, may be stale and useless. [ 60] And to keep all the Poultry in the House until all have laid, will be a great prejudice to the rest, as being deprived of their early morning feeding for Worms; But for Geese when they have once chosen their Nests, they will always lay there, so that they need not be pen'd up.

But according to the opinion of the experien∣ced Housewife, Fowl that sit, be they Hens, Tur∣keys, Geese or Ducks, should have places apart, where other Fowl cannot come to distrub them, which oft-times occasions them to forsake their Eggs. Tis not material to direct what places, most Houses having that convenience; if not, such places must be made; especially if great store are kept.

The best way to keep Eggs long and good, is in a Heap of old Malt, close covered over.

Feeding your Fowl.

FOr the feeding your Poultrey it is various; Buck, or French Wheat will soon fat them; but 'tis a loose Fat, and will wast upon the Spit. Hemp-seed is good to lay Eggs, the like doth Net∣tle-seeds, a little being mixt with the Oats or Bar∣ley; and it is convenient to observe set times for the feeding them, as early in the Mornings, and just before their going to Roost, which will bring them to a good order, and to become tame, and readily go to the Henhouse to Roost; about the quantity of half a handful of Oats, or Barly, to each Fowl is sufficient at one time, for if you feed your Store-Fowl too much, their fatness will hinder their laying; besides they will lay their Eggs without Shells. There are divers other things very good to feed Poultrey, as also Tur∣keys with, as Parsnips, and Carots, which must be washt, sliced, and so boyled tender in fair Water; then mix them with Meal made up into a Past, and feed them therewith, which is an excellent fat feeding; but not good for your Store-Fowl, only for such as you design for the Spit. Sea-Bisket is very good Food, being steeped in fair Water, over a gentle Fire until it is soft, and so give it them; it is bought very cheap on Shipboard at their return from Sea. Grains are very good Food for Ducks; and it is observed, that if you put in∣to the Past aforesaid, a little Sugar, it much quick∣ens their fatning.

If the Range for Powltrey and Turkeys is large; they will get good part of their living by Worms; the Seeds of Herbs, Bugs, and the like. Ducks feed much on Duckgraves, as also on Frogs, Slugs, and such like things that are hurtful to your Garden-plants, so that they are very neces∣sary to be kept there; and for Geese, their Food is much on Grass.

For fatning of Poultrey 'tis the opinion of some, that if they are kept in dark places, they will fat the sooner.

Stubble-Geese, as also Green-Geese are best fatted if kept dark, and to be fed with ground Malt mixt with Milk. On their Rumps there is a small Bunch of Feathers which in the Nights they usually suck with their Bills, drawing out a moisture thereat, which Bunch of Feathers, if cut away before they are put up to fatten, they will fat much sooner, and with less Meat, so that 'tis said that the Jews knowing of this inconveniency, use to tye them up in a Cloth, hang them in a dark place, stop their Ears which Peases to hinder their hearing any noyse, and so feed them with Pellets made of ground Malt, or Barley steeped in Wa∣ter; as also to set Gravel and Water by them,

which much whets their Stomachs, and causeth them to fat sooner.

For Setting of Poultrey.

THe best time for Setting Poultrey, to have the best, largest and most kindly Chickens is in February, and in the Increase of the Moon, so that they may hatch in March; one Brood then Hatch'd being esteemed worth two or three [ 10] at any other time; yet they prove good if Hatch'd in any of the Summer Months; and it is observed to be best to Set them on odd Eggs. It is a great advantage to Set Turkeys on Hen-Eggs, for they Set a Month with their own, and in six Weeks they will hatch two Broods of Hen-Eggs; and the first Brood may be put to such Hens that have but a few Chickens, or that have had some Misfortune, by Adling their Eggs, or the like. [ 20]

Be sure to Set your Poultrey with New-laid Eggs, which you may easily know by holding them up against the Sun, for such will be clear; also they are heavier than stale ones. And chuse not the largest Eggs, for they take up too much room, so that you can't set under her so many.

The Hens having Hatch'd their Chickens, take them and the Hen to be kept in some conve∣nient place in the House, and after a Day or two give them small Oatmeal, some dry, and some [ 30] steept in Milk; and when a little bigger, larger Oatmeal, Crums of White-Bread, Curds, Barly-Meal soaked, and the like, until they grow big enough to eat Oats, or Barley; also to chop green Chives amongst their Meat is very good. Be sure let them not want Water, for that breeds the Pip.

If you would have Cram'd Chicken, let them be put into the Coops so soon as taken from the Hen, that is, when she forsaketh them; and the [ 40] best Cram is Wheat-Meal and Milk made into Dough, and the Crams steept in Milk, and so thrust it down with your Finger in small Pellets. A Fortnight is sufficient to fat them in.

Of Capons.

CApons, which are the gelt Cock-Chickens, should be gelt so soon as the Hen hath left them, if the Stones be so soon come down, or [ 50] else so soon as they begin to Crow; for the Art of Gelding them is common, and soon learnt by seeing one or two gelt. As for the Cramming them for the Table, Take Barley-Meal well sifted, mixt with New-Milk, which make into good stiff Dough, and so into Pellets, and feed them therewith, being wet in warm Milk; let them have their Crops full, and feed them three times a day, viz. Morning, Noon, and Night, and in a Fortnight, or three Weeks, they will be fat e∣nough. [ 60]

Diseases that Poultrey are most subject unto.

THe Pip is a white thin Skin, or Scale grow∣ing on the Tip of the Tongue, which hin∣ders their feeding, occasioned from drinking foul Water. For Cure, Pull off the said Skin, and rub the Tongue with Salt.

LICE in Poultrey is chiefly from corrupt Feeding; the Cure is, by bathing them in warm Water, with small Pepper mixt therein.

Stinging by Venemous Creatures appears by their swelling and drooping; for Cure, anoint them with Rue and Butter.

Poultrey are oft troubled with swellings in their Rumps, which in time will corrupt the whole Body. The Cure is, to pull away the Feathers, opening the Soar and thrust out the Core; then wash the place with Salt and Water, or Brine.

To cause Hens to SIT, bathe them oft in cold Water, and thrust a small Feather through their Nostrils.

Hens that CROW are very unnatural; to remedy which keep them from other Poultrey, and feed them with scorched Barley, or small Wheat.

For Hens that are Crow-trodden, there is no remedy but to kill them. It is to be known by the staring of their Feathers, and hanging their Wings.

GEESE.

GEESE, as aforesaid, are very profitable to be kept, their chief food being Grass, and that the worst, as in Commons; they are not to be kept without the convenience of Water.

They begin to Lay early in the Spring, and the sooner the better; before they begin to Lay they will carry up and down Straw in their Bills, and when they will Sit, they will keep their Nests, so that then put their own Eggs to them. In about a Month the Eggs will be Hatch'd; then keep them some time in the House, feeding them with Curds, Barley-Meal wet in Milk, ground Malt, or Bran moistned in Milk or Water; and having gathered a little strength turn out the Goose with her Goslings to feed, &c. still observing to feed them as aforesaid, until they are fit to shift for them∣selves. In about a Month they will be fit to put up to Fat for Green-Geese; and for their Fatting feed them thrice a Day, that is, Morning, Noon, and Night, with plenty of Skeg-Oats boiled, with Milk, or Milk and Water mixt to drink.

For the Fatning of Geese let them take the be∣nefit of the Stubble after Harvest, which will make them fleshy; and then put them up in Coops apart dark kept, and let them have always by them good Oats, or spelted Beans, and for their Drink, Water mixt with Barley-Meal, and this will fatten them in about three Weeks, or you may observe the same Directions, as afore∣said.

For the pulling off the Feathers, as some use, I hold it not good, being prejudicial unto them.

The general Infirmity that Geese are troubled with, is the Gargil, being a great stopping of the Head. For Cure, Take three or four Cloves of Garlick, beat them in a Mortar with sweet Butter, of which make little long Balls, and give two or three of them to her fasting, keeping her shut up for about two hours after.

TVRKEYS.

THis Fowl is very profitable, if you under∣stand how to order them rightly. The Young ones are very tender, and subject to the Cramp, especially if too tenderly kept, not per∣mitting them to go abroad with their Dams; so that 'tis observed, that a Turkey that sits her self, and brings forth her Young without Housing, [ 10] comes to more good, as not subject to the Cramp, that so often kills those kept in the House, when they are put out in the Dew. They are generally inclined to rove or stray from their Dams, which are also very negligent of them; for if she hath but one following her, she will not regard the rest, which oft proves the loss of them, without an Eye over them.

Turkeys begin to Lay about March, and will Sit about April, and Hatch in about a Month. [ 20] They are very subject to Lay abroad, so that care must be taken to put them in the Hen-house, Cooping up those that the Servant finds with Egg at Night, as afore-directed.

The Young ones are fed with Curds, Milk, and Bread, and let their Drink be Milk and Water. When they have got strength put them abroad in some warm place, and turn them not out till the Dew is off the Grass, and so House them at Nights. [ 30]

For Fatting Turkeys, put them in Coops, and for the first Fortnight feed them with sodden Barley, or Oats, and afterwards Cram them as Capons, as before directed.

DVCKS.

THis Fowl is no less profitable than the rest, and less chargeable in keeping, generally being their own Purveyers; but 'tis good to [ 40] feed them Mornings and Evenings to keep them tame, and to accustom them to the House, so that when night comes they will be drawing home; these, or indeed any other Fowl, may be called home at any time when you de∣sire, by a Pipe or any whistling Noise, and to bring them to it, is always when you feed them, to make such a Noise, so that when they hear your Pipe, or Whistle, they will immediately come in expectation of Food; but never call them, but [ 50] Feed them, be it never so little. Grains is very good for them. They are great Layers when they begin; they Sit about a Month, and the Ducklings must be ordered and fed, as your Gos∣lings, only giving them Clivers chopt in Water, or Duckgraves, and when they are abroad will better shift for themselves than the Goslings. Ducks, or Ducklings, are easily fatted, giving them good store of any kind of Grain. [ 60]

PEACOCKS.

THis Fowl is more for the delight of the Eye, than profit; however a few may be kept. They are great Enemies to Fruit-Trees and Gar∣dens, pulling off the Buds. They delight much to feed on Toads, New••s, and such Venemous things which makes their Flesh unwholsom; The Pea-Hen loves to lay abroad in Bushes, Hedges, and the like secret places that the Cock may not find her Eggs, for he will break them. They sit a Month Feed her young with Cheese-Curds, and Barly Meal mixt with Water. They are very tender un∣til grown a little big, the least Cold killing them, so that let them not go abroad, but in Sunshiny or Warm Weather. This Fowl being not for the Dish, I shall not prescribe Rules to fat them; but as for their keeping, any Grain serveth them, and that they will get themselves, if possible.

SWANS.

THis is a stately Bird, but seldom kept; for they require large Waters, and then they will live on what they can get themselves; but in Frosty Weather they must be fed. When they make their Nests, do not disturb them. For feeding the Cignets for the Dish observe the same Rules as for Geese; or if you have the conveni∣ency of a small piece of Ground with a Pond in it, which is encompassed with a Pale, or Wall you may feed them there, puting two Troughs, one for old dryed Malt, and the other for Barley and Water, and this way they will be sooner fatted than in a House.

Herns, Puets, Gulls, and Bitterns.

HErns, are nourished for too reasons, the one to make Trains for entring Hawks, or else for the Table at Feasts. The way to bring them up is to take them out of their Nests before they can fly, and put them in a large high Barn that hath many high cross Beams for them to Perch upon; and to have on the Floor several Boords about two Yards square, with Rings in them, and there to place round shallow Tubs of Water, and to the Boords ty great Gobbets of Dogs-Flesh, according to the quantity you feed; and be sure to keep the place sweet, and oft shift the Water; and let the Roof be so that Rain may fall in several places, which they much delight in; but if you feed any for the Dish, then instead of Dogs-Flesh, give them Livers, or the Intrails of Beasts or Fowl, cut in pieces. And after this manner you may feed the Gulls, or Bitterns.

To feed Pheasants, Partridges, and Quails.

THese may be kept, and fed in one large Room, where you may have in divers Corners, Boxes for them to run in to hide them∣selves, and in the midst of the Room let there be placed three Wheat-sheafs, two with their Ears upwards, and the other with the Ears downwards, and near unto them shallow Tubs with fair Wa∣ter, to the end they may eat and drink at pleasure, which will make them soon fat.

As for the Quail, the best way is to keep them in long flat Boxes, or Coops, with the Sticks or Wyers on the fore-side no wider than for them to put forth their Heads to feed, or drink out of the Troughs; their Food is good small Wheat, and fair Water to drink.

You have been told several ways how to take Phesants, Partridges and Quails, in the Treatise of Fowling, to which I refer you; omitting it here; and having so taken them, put them into your Room, as aforesaid.

To feed Goodwits, Curlews, Gray-Plovers, and Knots. [ 10]

FIne Chiltern, or small Wheat is very good; let them be fed Mornings, Noons and Nights, and to have fresh clean Water; but the quicker way is to Cram them, and then use fine drest Wheat-Meal, mixt with Milk, with some of the said Wheat, and so made up into Past, and feed them with Crums thereof dipt in Water, giving them their Gorges full; and so keep them feeding as oft as their Gorges are empty.

PIGEONS. [ 20]

PIgeons either wild or tame are very profitable and serviceable for the Table, but the wild affords the greatest, by reason they get their Food abroad, except it be in hard frosty and snowy Weather, when nothing is to be got, and about Mid-summer before Pease are ripe, this Season be∣ing called Benting-time, as being then constrain∣ed to feed on the Seeds of Bent-grass; and at [ 30] those times they must be allowed Food.

Pigeons are great lovers of Salt, so that it is very good to set a large Salt-pot in your Dove-House, that is, temper up some Loom and Salt to∣gether in a Pot, and the Pigeons will feed there∣on with great delight, and occasion them not to forsake your Dove-House.

Assafoetida being boyld in Water, and the Holes of the Dove-House washed therewith, will cause a scent to be on their Feathers, so [ 40] that what company they light into, by their plea∣sing Scent they will draw home with them.

Cumin Seeds boyled in Water and applyed as aforesaid, will do the same, being an excellent drawer.

But that which is adjudged the most effectual (were it lawful) is a Salt or proud Bitch baked or roasted with Cumin-seeds, and set in the Dove-House.

OF BEES, and how to order them. [ 50]

THere is no Creature so industrious, and taketh such great pains as the Bee, go∣ing out early and coming Home late, never rest∣ing but in cold and wet Weather; for Idleness is so detestable a Vice amongst them, that none are tollerated thereunto but their Sovereign, every one being employed either abroad in gathering Food, or at Home in building Combs, feeding their Young, [ 60] or some other employ; and no Creatures live to∣gether in that unity and amity in one House or Habitation, as having no single propriety in any thing they get or do, all being as it were in common amongst them; nor is their Labour compulsive, but every one endeavours to out∣vie the other in their industrious Labours.

There is nothing more ad vantageous to be kept than an Apiary, and there must be a con∣venient, and necessary place made choise of for that purpose, which should be square, or rather more long than broad, and extending from East to West, and facing the South, to the end that the Bees returning late Home at Night may the better see their way in. But some are of another opinion, and that is; to let them have the benefit of the Morning Sun, as much as possible, that time being the best to gather Honey; but the surest way is to let them have as much of both Morning and Evening Sun as the place will ad∣mit of; for the Morning Sun makes them swarm early in the Day. Let the Apiary be well defend∣ed from high Winds, especially towards the North; but let not the Fences, be so high as to hinder the Sun, nor so near as to obstruct their Flight; also let it be remote from ill Smells, and not fre∣quented by Poultrey: Let the Ground be kept mowed, not digged or pared if it be Grass, for in the Summer it will be too hot, and in the Winter too cold; and let it not be too remote from the House, that you may be often with them at Swarning time, or upon several other occasions. Likewise it would be very necessary to plant at some reasonable distance from the Bees, Fruit-trees, that they may pitch upon the Boughs in Swarming-time near at hand.

The usual way to set the Stocks of Bees upon, are Stools, Benches, or Seats.

The Stools are placed at different Heights, but about a Foot is well. They must be set shel∣ving that the Rain may run off, and made two or three Inches wider than the Hives, with a place before for the Bees to light upon. They may be made of Wood, or Stone, but Stone is not so good, as being too hot in Summer, and too cold in the Winter. The Stools ought to stand about five Foot one from another; in a strait Rank from East to West; and if they are placed one behind another, they should be eight or nine Foot asunder, and the Stools of the one Rank to be placed against the open places of the other, and free from all incumbrances to hinder their Flight.

Benches are the most common in use, and known to every one; but they are nothing near so com∣modious as Stools, being subject to divers incon∣veniencies.

Seats are esteemed the best, for every Stock of Bees make a small House of about two Foot Square, and something higher, which should be placed upon four Legs about a Foot above Ground, and covered with Boards or Tyles, to cast off the Rain, with the North side closed up, the East and West sides to be made with Dores to open and shut at pleasure; and the fore part or South side to have a falling Dore to cover the one half thereof, which is to be raised up as oc∣casion requires: and it likewise serves in the Sum∣mer Season as a Pent House to shelter them from the extream Heat in the mid part of the Day, which is apt to melt their Honey.

On these Seats may be placed any sort of Hive, whether of Straw, Board, or Glass, which will preserve them to a longer continuance

than if placed on Stools or Benches.

Although in some Winter days the Sun shines seemingly warm and confortable, yet it is not convenient to open the Doors to let them out, neither too early in the Spring, before they can find employment for gathering of Honey.

The most usual Hives are the Straw; but of late there is a new invented one of Wood made in Squares, and so ordered to be one Story above the other; I cannot say much in praise or dis∣praise [ 10] of it; but the Invention did not much take, the chief design being to preserve the Stocks of Bees, and yet take the Honey, which by the com∣mon way are smothered.

Glass-Hives suit the disposition and nature of the Bee, who delights to see their workmanship go forward, insomuch that by Observation they will be more laborious, as it were endeavouring to out do one another in their diligence. Also these sorts of Hives afford great delight to the [ 20] curious by seeing how they work, and order their affairs to wonderful admiration.

For the dressing the new Hives, the inside must be very smooth, and free from Straws and Sticks, which much offends them. As for the rubing them with sweet Herbs, and splending them, (that is setting up the Sticks) it is common and well known to most Countrey People, so that I shall pass that by.

If you would have your Stocks to encrease, [ 30] make your Hives smaller; and if your design be to have good quantity of Honey, make them lar∣ger; for a few Hives well ordered and in a thri∣ving condition, will afford Bees enough to Stock many of the larger Hives.

As for the Swarming, if the Spring be dry, cold and windy, it will much retard their Swarm∣ing, nor will there be many that Year; but if it be mild and calm with gentle Showers, they will Swarm early and the oftner; about mid May in [ 40] an early and kindly Spring they may begin, and then comes in your care to look after them; but you may have timely notice of their Swarming by observing these Signs. They will hover about the Doors in cold Evenings and Mornings, and in sultry hot Mornings, and Evenings they will hang out; they will run hastily up and down, cast out their Drones, and there will be a moistness upon the Stool. Also if the Weather be hot and gloo∣my, and after a Shower or gloomy Cloud hath [ 50] sent them home, and that they hang out toge∣ther, then expect a suddain Swarming.

But on the contrary, if they continually lye forth, especially about mid June, 'tis a Sign of their not Swarming; Also much stormy and win∣dy Weather obstructs their Swarming, although they are ready, and causeth them to lye out; the like doth Weather that hath been very hot and dry, for some continuance.

Now for the causing them to Swarm, keep [ 60] the Hives as cool as possible, by watering the Ground near them, by shading the Hives, by enlarging the Doors to give them Air, and by forcing them into the Hives gently with a Brush, suffering them not to cluster together.

As concerning the Signs of After-swarming, there is more certainty to be observed; for when the Prime Swarm is gone, about nine or ten Even∣ings after, when another Brood is ready, the Hive being overcharged with them, the next Prince begins to tune in a treble voyce, and in a day or two after the old Queen will make her re∣ply in a base Note, as it were declaring her con∣sent for their Swarming. In the Morning before they Swarm they come down near the Stool, and there call some what longer, and at the time of their Swarming they come down to the Stool, and beginning their Notes more thicker and shril∣ler, they all come forth in great hast.

If the Prime Swarm be broken, the second will both call and swarm the sooner, probably the next day, and after that a third, and sometimes a fourth, and all within a Fortnights Space.

Sometimes a Swarm will cast another that Year; but if late, 'tis not worth the keeping, ac∣cording to the old Rhime,

A Swarm in July, Is not worth a Fly.

It is customary when Bees Swarm, to make a tinkling Noyse upon a Bason, Kettle, Pan or the like, thereby the better to gather them to settle; but by the Judicious and such as have made trials concerning the same, 'tis found very idle and foolish, rather causing them to fly away; for all great Noyses are offensive to them; there∣fore your business should be only to watch their setling, and if they fly aloft and are like to be gone, then cast up Dust amongst them to make them come down.

The Swarm being setled, as it were like a Cluster of Grapes, and the Hive well rub'd with sweet Herbs, &c. shake them off the Bough into the Hive, which should be of a fit Size answerable to the bigness of the Swarm to fill it that Year; and having a Sheet, or such like Cloth spread upon the Ground, set the Hive thereon, for some time, until the Bees are setled therein; or if the the Bough is small on which they Swarm, you may cut it off, and put it into the Hive under the Sheet, as aforesaid.

If the Swarm separate, and light in two places, but in sight of one another, disturb the lesser parcel, and they will fly to the rest; but if not in sight, then Hive them in two Hives; then bring them together, and shake the Bees out of one of the Hives on the Sheet whereon the o∣ther Hive stands, and place the other Hive on them, and they will take to it.

When Swarms come late, and are but small, 'tis convenient to unite them, by which means they will be more industrious in their labour. The manner of uniting them is thus; Place the Hive, whereing you have newly put your Swarm you intend to drive into another, in a place that the Skirts may be uppermost, and set the other upon him, binding them about the Skirts with a long Towel, and so let them stand until Morn∣ing, and the Bees will all ascend, that you may the next Morning set the Receiver on a Stool, and after this manner you may put two or three Swarms together; but be sure to unite them the same Evening, or the next at furthest that they Swarm.

For preserving your self from stinging in the time of Swarming, the best and surest way is to be provided with a Net made of fine Thread or Silk, with a close Mesh, which cast over your Head, Hat and all, compassing your Face; and for your Hands have on Gloves. And if not∣withstanding you happen to be stung, pull out the Sting as soon as possible, and for the asswag∣ing the swelling, heat a piece of Iron red [ 10] hot, and hold it as near to the place grieved as possible, and for as long a continuance as you can endure it, and it will attract out that fiery Venom caused by the Sting. But the most com∣mon way is to rub the Wound with the leaves of House-leek, Mallows, Mary-golds, Rue, Holly-hock and Vinegar, or Salt and Vinegar; but none of these are so good.

As soon as a Swarm hath entred the Hive, they lose no time, but begin to work and gather [ 20] Wax for the building their Combs, so that it is a Sight worthy to be seen to observe how these poor Creaturs frame their curious Workmanship; which may be done, if put into transparent or Glass Hives, or in Wooden Hives that have Glass Windows.

The best Season to remove an old Stock of Bees, is about Michaelmass, that is, a little before and a little after; also about the end of Febru∣ary, or begining of March at the latest. Let the [ 30] time be in the Evening, when all the Bees are quiet, and when the Weather is fair. The Hive must be put on a Board, and gently car∣ried to the place where it is to be set, for jog∣ging Spoyls the Hive, loosning the Combs, and dis∣turbing the Bees.

It oft times happens, that through a cold, dry and unseasonable Spring, as also by a cold and early Winter, that Bees will not have a Stock of Honey sufficient to keep them. [ 40]

In this case they must be fed, and the best Food is Honey mixt with sweet Wort, which must be conveyed into the Hives by small Canes or Troughs dayly, until the approaching Summer affords them provision abroad. Instead of Ho∣ney you may give them Sugar. Some gives them Toasts of Bread sopt in Ale; others dry Meal, or Flower of Beans.

There are several things very offensive and in∣jurious to Bees, as Smoak, ill Scents and Smells, [ 50] Noyse, ill Weather, as Winds, Cold, Heat, and Rain, which may be prevented by well placing the Apiary; Noysom Creatures, as Spiders, Snails, Frogs, Toads, Moths, &c. and devour∣ing Creaturs and Insects, as Birds, Mice, Wasps, and Hornets are also injurious to them. [ 60]

CHAP. XIII.

Of External Injuries amongst Cattle, and other Inconvenien∣cies that happen to the Hus∣bandman, with Remedies for the same.

Injuries sustained by Beasts and Vermine.

FOXES are found very pernitious in killing and taking away Geese, Poultrey, and oft times young Lambs, especially near Woods and Forests; so that such things can hard∣ly escape them.

Now for the taking this subtile Creature di∣vers Inventions are used, as by Traps, Gins, Snares, &c. as well as by Dogs, which having treated thereof in Hunting, I shall omit it here.

POLE-CATS, FITCHETS, WEA∣SELS, and the like Vermin, are great Enemies to the Hen-Roosts, Dove-House, and Warren; for taking and destroying of all which suffici∣ent Directions are given in the XIX. Chapter in Hunting.

RATS and MICE are great Enemies, not only in the Houses, Granaries, Barns, and Stables; but also in the Gardens, Orchards, and Fields.

For destroying them within-Doors, Traps are very good; also Baits of Arsenick, or the Roots of white Hellebore, mixt with Sugar, and laid in their Holes or Haunts are very good; but that which is more effectual, seldom or never failing, is white Arsnick beaten to fine Powder, which use as followeth: Take Raysons of the Sun, split and dip them in the Arsnick, and so close them again. Also, Take Apples Codled, and the soft Pap mix with the Arsnick together with Sugar: Likewise, Take some Hogs-Lard, Flower of Malt and Arsnick mixt together; to each of these three things put a little quantity into an Oyster∣shell, lay them in such places where the Rats come, and it will certainly destroy them.

For destroying Field-Mice, so injurious to Gar∣dens in eating and spoiling the Wall-Fruit, as also the Beans, Pease, and the like, observe these Di∣rections: Get a piece of a Deal-Board, which cut into thin slices, make them pretty smooth; then cut twenty pieces six Inches long, and as many three Inches long, and as many two Inches long; then cut a Notch in the side of that piece six Inches long, about two Inches from the end, and a cross Notch upon the flat side within half an Inch of the end; then the other of two Inches, to cut it taper at one end, and a cross Notch on the Flat side made within half an Inch of the end; then the Stick that is two Inches and an half must be taper at one end, that so the cross Notch may in the Stick of two Inches rest upon the top of the

two Inches and an half; and then the two Inches must at the Taper end go into the Stick that is six Inches, and the Notch of the side will be a stay to hold up the Tiles; then take forty Tiles, and they will serve for the twenty Traps, and fit them as near as you can to fall close together; Then take the three Sticks, the six Inch, the three and the two Inch Sticks, and place the three Inch Stick to the edge of the undermost bot∣tom Tile; then take the two Inch Stick, and [ 10] place the Notch of it upon the Taper end of the three Notch Stick; then take the six Inch Stick, and set the Taper end of the two Inch Stick in the Notch that is at the end of the six Inch Stick; then the Notch of the side of the six Inches must hook into the side of the three Inch Stick, otherwise the weight of the Tile will make the Sticks fly all apart; if it stand when it is set exactly like a Figure of 4, you shall see every part in the Frontice-piece. You [ 20] must bait the end of the six Inch Stick with Lard, and dip it into Oatmeal, and bait but the uppermost side; then having set them all along the Hedges, or Wall-sides, you will find good store taken of them, for the Traps seldom miss: And in those Traps where Mice are taken, when you set them again, you should Bait them a∣fresh with Lard and Oatmeal, as aforesaid.

These Traps are very good to take Titmice, which is a very destructive Bird to the Buds of [ 30] Trees, as also to Wall-Fruit.

MOLES, or WANTS, are great Enemies to Gardens, Meadows, and Corn-fields; they are to be taken with Traps, which are to be placed in the Moles Road, Passage, or Trench; and of these Traps there are several sorts, but the best is thus made: Take a piece of Board about three Inches broad, and five Inches long, with the ends made Taperwise; on one side six two small Sticks like round Arches, at each end one, large [ 40] enough for a Mole to go through; in the midst of the Board make a Hole large enough to re∣ceive a Goose-Quill, into which a Peg of about two Inches long is to be put. You must also be provided with a Hazle Stick, or some other bending Wood of about a Yard and an half long, which is to be stuck in the Ground with a Link of Horse-hair tyed to it; and before you fix the Trap into the Moles Passage, put the Hair-Spring through the Hole in the midst of the [ 50] Board, and place it round even with the Hoops, and with the said Peg (gently put into the Hole to stop the Knot of the Hair-Spring;) then make the Trap fast down by hooked long Sticks thrust into the Earth, to the end that the Spring-Stick may not draw up the Trap; and the Trap must be exactly covered over with Earth, that there may be no Light appear in the said Trench; And when the Mole passeth that way, by thru∣sting out the said Peg that hangs loosly perpen∣dicular [ 60] downwards, and the Knot passing through the Hole, the Mole is become ensnared with the Spring.

After this Method you may set what quantity of Traps your Ground requires, which should be tended every day Morning and Evening at their Working times, to see what are taken, and that the Traps may be set again, for in one Pas∣sage seven or eight may be taken without re∣moving the Trap.

Another way to take Moles.

HAving taken a Doe-Mole, get a large Earthen Pot, and having made a Hole in the mid∣dle of the main Trench, or Passage; set the Pot that the top may be even with the bottom of the Trench; then fill it about half full with Mould, and put some great Worms therein for the Mole to live upon, and cover the Pot very close that no Light come therein; and the Buck-Mole will not fall to visit the Doe in the Pot, especi∣ally if it be set about March, which is their Bucking-time; for then 'tis said they will run about a quarter of a Mile after a Doe, and by this means (with the help of a few Pots) all the Bucks will be taken.

If you Fume the Trenches with Brimstone, Garlick, and the like unsavoury things, the Moles will forsake the Ground. The like they will do, if you put a dead Mole into their Trenches.

The usual places for their Beds and Haunts, are in Banks, and near Hedge-rows.

Mole-Ketchers are very expert in taking them in the Mornings and Evenings, when they stir, only with their Paddle-Staves.

Injurious Fowl and Insects.

THe Crows, Rooks, and Daws; as also Spar∣rows, Titmice, Bulfinches, and the like small Birds, destroy much Corn, as also Cherries; the like do Jayes and Magpies. There are divers Inventions to destroy them; which are taken notice of in the Treatise of Fowling.

Kites and wild Hawks oft-times kill the Chickens.

Snails, Slugs, Wasps, Ants, Hornets, Ear-wigs, Caterpillars, Ants, Snakes, and like, are also very pernicious to the Husbandman; but they may easily be destroyed with a little care and pains.

Injuries sustained by the Heavens.

HIgh Winds are very pernicious to Fruits, Trees, Corn, Hops, Buildings, &c. especially in plain, open, and high Countries; for a defence from which, the Elm (or other high Trees) is a great shelter to Houses; and for Fruits and Hops good Walls, Pales, and Hedges, are a Preservative; and for Corn, there is no better way than good Hedge-Rows and Enclosures, as before treated of.

Thunder, Tempests, Hail and Lightning are great enemies to the Husbandman in divers re∣spects, which being so well known are unnecessa∣ry to be named.

Blighting and Mildews prove oft times fatal to Corn; but if a good Shower of Rain immediately follows, or that the Wind blow stiffly, it washeth or shaketh it off. But this Ill-conveniency doth most attend Inclosures. Also the Sowing of Wheat early is a great prevention of Mildews: And

Bearded Wheat is not subject thereto, as other sorts are.

Great and hasty Rains are very pernicious to Corn-Ground, especially to such that lye low, and at the bottom of Hills, for which it is good to make Water-Courses, or Drains, to carry it away: And a wet Harvest is very bad, not only as to Expences, but as to the spoyling the Corn, which the better to prevent observe the old Proverb, To make Hay whilst the Sun shines. And let the [ 10] Corn be well shock'd up, which will very much preserve it from a Shower of Rain.

Violent and long Frosts are very prejudicial in several respects, especially to forward Fruits, Seeds, and Plants in the Spring. Also some Lands (as cold Clayey Ground) are more subject to suffer by bitter Frosts, than those that lye on a warm Sand, or Gravel; also those that lye moist, more than those that lye dry; and those that lye on the North and East sides of Hills, [ 20] more than those that lye on the South and West. And as a Remedy for this, Inclosures are very good, being a great preservative to Corn, Trees, Plants, &c.

Also Horse-Dung laid to the Roots of young and tender Trees, and Plants, is a great preser∣vative against pinching Frosts. Likewise Straw, Hawm, Fern, or Furz, will very much defend any thing from Frosts. Also Mat, or Canvass, is very good to preserve Beds of tender Plants, or [ 30] Flowers, being arched over with Sticks, and the said Mat, or Canvass, laid upon it. The like it is for Hot-Beds, for the raising of Seeds in the Spring.

Fruit gathered into the House is subject to great damage by Frosts, so that to prevent this mischief in a great measure cast Straw over them.

This Kingdom is much subject to Heat and Drought in the Summer Season, so that to many [ 40] Seats Water is much wanting, all standing Pools being then dryed up, insomuch that Cattle are drove to Water a considerable distance to some Spring or River; and no Water for the Houshold Affairs, but what is brought by a Cart, which is very troublesom. Now to prevent this, where no Springs can be found by digging of Wells, make Cisterns which may be capacious enough to hold as great a quantity of Water as you think fit, which will easily be filled, be it never so big in the Winter.

For the making these Cisterns, make a Bed of good Clay, and lay thereon Bricks for the Floor; then raise the Wall round about, leaving a con∣venient space betwixt the Bricks and the Earth, to ram in Clay as fast as the Wall is made; but be sure let the Bed of Clay be of a good thick∣ness, and well tempered, that the Clay chop not, for then it is spoiled, and will not hold Water.

CHAP. XIV.

A KALENDAR, or Monthly Directions to the Husband∣man.

THere is a peculiar time to be observed for the most Affairs in the World, but espe∣cially for such that depend upon the mutable Seasons of the Year, being the essential part of AGRICVLTVRE, insomuch that every Hus∣bandman should have his Chart, or Draught, to steer by, and to reinforce his Memory, so that the multiplicity of his Affairs may not occasion his forgetting those things that are necessary to be undertaken, always observing the Proverb, To take Time by the Fore-lock, for Time let slip can't be recalled, so that it is a great negligence to be too late; and you shall rarely find a thriving HVSBANDMAN to be behind with his Affairs, for if you expect a Reward of your Labours, Plow, Sow, and Reap in due Season. But to proceed to the Monthly Kalendar, beginning with January.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	JANUARY 31 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1	New-Years
2	Day.
3
4	8. 00	4. 00	Castor and Pollux riseth in the Evening.
5
6	Twelf-day.
7
8
9
10	Sun in A∣quarius.		Lucida Corona, or the Crown, is with the Sun.
11
12			The Dog-Star riseth in the Evening.
13
14
15
16	7. 45	4. 15
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24	7. 30.	4. 30.
25	St. Paul.
26
27
28
29
30
31	7. 15	4. 45

[ 10]
[ 20]
[ 30]

A Frosty January is seasonable, although it proves the Rich mans charge, and the Poor mans misery.

Now it is time to Plow, or Fallow the Ground designed for Pease, Beans, or Oats; and if the Wea∣ther be Mild, sow forward Pease, and set Garden-Beans, digging or trenching your Garden Ground, [ 40] to make it mellow for your Crop in the Spring, if your time did not permit you in December.

Now it is good time to water Meadows, and Marsh Grounds, and to drain Arable Lands by cutting Water-Furrows.

If the Season be Hard and Frosty, carry out your Dung on your Land, laying it on Heaps until the Weather be mild and open.

Lop and Top Trees, and cut your Coppices and Hedge-rows. [ 50]

In open Weather remove and plant Trees and Vines, dig and trench Gardens, lay up your Bor∣ders, uncover the Roots of such Trees that re∣quire it, putting Soil unto them. Also Prune your Vines and Trees, Nail and trim Wall-Fruits, cleanse Trees from Moss and Succors, gather Cions for Grafts, and stick them in the Ground until Grafting time. Make Hot-Beds, and Sow your choice Sallads, also Colly-flowers, &c. secure your choice Flowers and Plants from the Cold by [ 60] Covers, Straw, or Dung. Earth up the Roots of such Plants that the Frost hath uncovered. Set Quicksets. Hedge and Ditch; Cut away Ant-hills. House your weanling Calves and Colts. Be careful of your Ews and Lambs. Set Traps to destroy Vermin. Dig Weedy Hop-Grounds, remove Bees, and turn up Bee-Hives, and sprinkle them with sweet warm Wort.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	FEBRUARY 28, or 29 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1			Cor Leonis riseth in the Evening.
2	Candlemass
3
4
5
6
7
8	7. 00	5. 00	Sun in Pisces.
9
10
11
12
13
14	Valentine
15
16	6. 45	5. 45	Cor Hydrae riseth in the Evening.
17
18			The Lions Tail riseth in the Evening.
19
20			Fomahant is with the Sun.
21
22
23	6. 30	5. 30
24	Matthias
25
26
27
28
29

This is a busie Month for sowing of Pease, Beans, Tares, and Oats, being the principal Season for Lenten Grain. Carry out Dung, and spread it before the Plough; but for Pasture Grounds that are wet, chuse the hard Frosts. Make hast to Plant such Trees that your occasions would not permit you in January, for now the Sap riseth up, and then it is too late: You may also yet plant Quick-sets. Set Osiers, Poplars, Willows, and other Aquaticks, this being a very good Season. If the Season is mild sow Hemp-seed, as also Mustard-seed. Cleanse your Ground from Moles before breeding time, which is March, and spread the Mole-hills. This is seasonable for cutting Coppices, Lopping of Trees and plashing of Quick-sets. If the Weather is temperate Graft your forward Fruits, and cleanse Fruit-Trees from Moss and Cankers. Cut not your tender Wall-Fruit until the Frosts are over. Trim up your Pallisade-Hedges and Espaliers. Lay Branches to take Root. Set Nuts, Fruit-Stones, and Kernels, with other hard Seeds. Towards the mid∣dle, or latter end of the Month sow Carots, Pars∣nips, Onions, Sallating, Parsly, Spinage, and other hard Seeds; plant Cabages, Liquorice; plant out Colly-flowers into Warm-Beds. Make up Hot-Beds for Cucumbers, Melons, &c. Sow Asparagus. Gather off the Snails from the Wall-fruit, set Traps for taking Bull-finches that destroy the Buds of Fruit-Trees. Plant Hops if the Weather be mild, and dress them that are out of heart. You may yet remove Bees, and half open their Passages. This Month is good to few Fish-Ponds, and to take Fish.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	MARCH 31 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1	David
2	6. 15	5. 45
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10	6. 00	6. 00	Sun in Aries. Aequinoctial.
11
12			Arcturus riseth in the E∣vening.
13
14
15
16
17			[ 20]
18	5. 45	6. 15	Calf of the right Leg of Bootes riseth in the E∣vening.
19
20
21
22
23			Spica Virginis rises in the Evening.
24
25	5. 30	6. 30	Lady Day.
26
27			[ 30]
28
29			Second Star in the Left Wing of Virgo riseth in the Evening.
30
31

[ 10]

This Month ushers in the welcom Spring, and if it prove dry, is esteemed ominous of a happy year for Corn. In this Mouth and the next sow all sorts of French Grasses, or Hay-seed, and if the Weather be temperate Flax and Hemp. It is [ 40] also the principal Season for Oats, Barley, Pease, &c. Also sow Carots, Parsnips, Turnips, Cabage-seeds, Parsley, Skirrets, Onions, Leeks, Garlick, Spinage, Purs∣laine, Lettuce, Raddish, Sallery, Smallage, Endive, Suc∣cory, Marygolds, with divers other Summer Herbs. You may transplant most sorts of sweet Herbs, and Summer Flowers. Make your Hot Beds for Melons, and Cucumbers. Dress up and string your Strawberry-Beds. Uncover Asparagus-Beds, and transplant them. Slip and plant Artichoaks, and [ 50] Liquorice. Plant all Garden-Herbs and Flowers that have fibrous Roots. And such choice Flowers that are not natural for our Climate sow in Hot-Beds. Now is a good time to plant Madder, and Saffron. As also Hops, and to dress them up. Sow Pine-Kernels, and the Seeds of all Winter Greens: Also Pinks and Carnations. This is the principal Season for Grafting all sorts of Fruit-Trees, and cover the Roots of such Trees that you laid open in the Winter. Carry Dung into your Gardens, and [ 60] Orchards. Destroy what Moles you could not in February. It is yet seasonable to set Osiers, Willows, and the like Aquaticks. Lay up your Meadows and Pastures designed to Mow, and keep up your Fences. If the Weather be dry, Rowl your Wheat. 'Tis a good Season to Lop Trees, and fell Coppices And this is the best Season to raise the best Brood Poultrey.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	APRIL 30 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1
2	5. 15	6. 45
3
4
5
6
7
8
9	5. 00	7. 00
10	Sun in Tau∣rus.
11
12			Canda Leonis Sets in the Morning.
13
14
15
16
17	4. 45	7. 15
18
19
20
21
22
23	St. George.
24
25	St. Mark.
26	4. 30	7. 30	Virgiliae, or the Pleiades, rises with the Sun.
27
28
29
30

If the Spring is forward, cleanse and rid away the Wood from the Coppices, and fence them in to preserve them from Cattle. It is now seasona∣ble to Fell such Timber you intend to Bark. If the Season is dry Fallow your Ground, cleanse and scour your Ditches, and make hast to sow your French Seeds that you could not do in March; and you may also sow Hemp and Flax in the beginning of this Month. Now is a good Season to sow all Garden Seeds, if the Weather is dry: and when it is wet, plant your Garden Herbs, and sow such tender Seeds that can't en∣dure the cold Frosts. Sow Cucumbers and Melons; set Artichoaks, French-Beans, and English-Beans. In the beginning of this Month Graft some sorts of Fruit in the Stock Gather up Snails and Slugs after Evening Showers, as also early in the Mornings. Sow your Annual Flowers that come of Seed, that you may have Flowers all the Summer: Also sow the Seeds of Winter-Greens, and transplant such Flowers with fibrous Roots that were left unremoved in March. You may now set forth your tender Greens, that are kept in your Conservatory in the Winter, except O∣range Trees, and those bring not forth till May. Also transplant and remove your Jasimines, Myr∣tles, and the like tender Greens: And towards the end of the Month, if the Weather be mild, clip your Phillyrea, and transplantany sort of Winter Greens. Plant Hops, and Pole them. Lay open your Bees to gather the sweets of the Flowers.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-set.	MAY 31 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1	Phil. and Jacob		Cor Scorpionis Sets in the Morning.
2
3			The Great Dog-Star in the Evening.
4
5
6	4. 15	7. 45	[ 10]
7
8
9			The Goat-Star appears.
10
11	Sun in Ge∣mini
12			Aldebran Sets in the E∣vening.
13
14			Fomahant rises in the Morn∣ing.
15
16	4. 00	8. 00
17			Middle Stat of Andromeda's [ 20] Girdle Sets with the Sun.
18
19
20
21
22			Cor Scorpionis rises in the Evening.
23
24
25
26	3. 50	8. 10
27			[ 30]
28
29			The Bulls Eye rises with the Sun.
30
31

This oft proves the pleasantest Month in the Year; the Fields and Trees being in their Sum∣mer Liveries, and Birds chant out their pleasant Notes to the welcoming in the Spring.

If this Month proves seasonable and cool, it rejoyceth the Countrymans Heart in expectation [ 40] of a happy Autumn; but if hot, it denotes Sick∣ness to ensue. If your Corn be to rank, Mow it, or Feed it down, with Sheep.

It is a good time to wean Lambs, whose Ewes you intend to milk. Cutting or Crop∣ping of Trees, hinders them from thriving.

You may sow Buck-Wheat this Month, as also later Pease, and set later Garden Beans. Weed your Quick-Sets. Drain wet and Marshy Grounds.

Turn out your weanling Calves to Grass. Twi∣fallow [ 50] your Ground, get home your Fewel, cleanse your Ground from Broom, Furz, Goss, and the like: and grub up such Coppices and Hedgrows as you intend should not grow again. Sell off your Winter-fed Cattle, look after your Sheep if the Weather proves rainy, for fear of the Rot.

About the end of the Month Mow your Clo∣ver, St. Foy••, and other French Grasses. Plant all sorts of Winter Greens.

Sow sweet Marjarom, Thime, Basil, hot Aro∣matick [ 60] Herbs, and Plants, and such like tender Seeds. Also set Sage and Rosemary. Sow Pur∣celain, and Lettuce; also French Beans; and uncover your Melons and Cucumbers, excepting in Glasses.

Take up such Tulips that are dryed in the Stalk. Watch your Bees ready to swarm, and bind up the Hops to the Poles, and make up the Hills after Rain.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun Set.	JUNE hath 30 Days.
	H. M.	H. M
1
2
3	3. 45	8. 15
4
5
6
7
8			The Head of Costor rises in the Morning before the Sun.
9
10	3. 43	8. 17
11	Barnabas		Sun in Cancer Solstice.
12
13
14			Arcturus sets in the Morn∣ing.
15
16
17			Hydra's Heart sets in the Evening.
18
19
20	3. 45	8. 15
21
22
23
24	Jo. Baptist
25
26
27
28
29	St. Peter		The Right Foot of Gemini sets in the Morning.
30	3. 30	8. 10

This Month is the principal Season for washing and sharing Sheep: And now begins the Husband∣mans Hay-Harvest in high forward Meadows. Fal∣low your Wheat-land, which will kill the Weeds, and mellow the Ground. And cleanse and scow∣er your Ponds and Ditches from the Mud, the Sea∣son being now warm to endure the Water. Fetch home your Fewel before your Teem is employed in Harvest affairs. Weed your Corn, sow Rape, and Cole-seed, as also Turnep-seed. Have a great care to your Sheep for fear of the Rot, for Mil∣dews, and Hony-dews begin to fall. Gather Snails, Slugs, and Worms; and destroy Ants and other Vermin. 'Tis a good time now to Inoculate, and to pluck off the Buds where you would not have the Trees branch forth. Water such Trees that you planted late, laying Weeds or Stones at the Roots to keep them moist. Plant July-Flowers, and Rosemary, set Saffron, sow latter Sallading. In∣oculate Jasamine, Roses, &c. gather Seeds that are ripe, and preserve them that are cool and dry. Wa∣ter the dry Beds. Take up your Bulbous Roots of Tulips, Anemonies, &c. and transplant them. Dig such Ground as you design for a Hop-ground, and bind such Hops to the Poles that the Wind hath shaken off. Be careful of yours Bees, this Month being the principal time of their swarming. And now is the time to distil Waters, to dry Herbs for the Winter; and to make Syrups, &c.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun Set.	JULY 31 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1			First Star of Orions Belt rises with the Sun.
2	Visitation of Mary.
3
4
5
6
7			[ 10]
8	4. 00	8. 00
9
10
11
12
13	Sun in Leo.		Lucida Corona rises in the Evening.
14
15	St. Swithin
16			[ 20]
17
18	4. 15	7. 45
19	Dog Days.
20	Margaret.		Lesser Dog-Star rises with the Sun.
21
22	Mary Mag.
23
24
25	St. James.
26
27			[ 30]
28	4. 30	7. 30
29			Greater Dog-Star rises with the Sun.
30
31			Syrius rises in the Morning.

This Month and August is the Husbandmans busy time, Hay Harvest admitting no delay, es∣pecially if fair Weather offers.

Gather your earliest Hemp and Flax.

Sow Turnep-Seeds: Towards the latter end of [ 40] this Month, your Rye will be ripe, especially if the Year is forward.

In this Month Wheat and Hops are much sub∣ject to Mildews.

It is now very good time to Inoculate choise Fruits, Roses, &c.

Cut off the Stocks of such Flowers that have done blossoming, and cover their Roots with new rich Mould.

Cleanse your Wall Fruit from Snails. [ 50]

Sow latter Sallading. Slip Stocks, and lay Ju∣ly-Flowers and Carnations for encrease, watering them, and keeping them from the hear of the Sun; also lay Myrtle and other curious Greens.

Graft by approach, and Inoculate Jasimines, Oranges, &c. Transplant and remove Tulips, and the like Bulbous Roots.

Streighten the entrance of your Bees, kill the Drones, Wasps, Flyes, &c. that annoy them. [ 60]

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	AUGUST 31 Days
	H. M.	H. M.
1	Lammas		Orion appears in the Morn∣ing.
2	Day.
3
4
5
6	4. 45	7. 15
7
8
9			Cor Leonis rises in the Morning with the Sun.
10	Laurence.
11
12
13	5. 00	7. 00	Sun in Virgo.
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21	5. 15	6. 45
22
23
24	St. Bartho∣lomew.		Cauda Leonis rises in the Morning with the Sun.
25
26	(end.
27	Dog Days
28	5. 30	6. 30
29
30
31

This Month is the Husbandmans great expence for the bringing in of his Harvest; and if it prove dry and free from high Winds, great part of his disbursments will be abated to Labourers; besides, the great advantage gained by having the Corn dry cut and housed. You may yet Twy-fallow, and carry on your Dung for your Winter Corn, laying it in heaps to be spread before the Plough. This is a good Season for gelding of Lambs; and such Ewes and Cows that you design not to keep for store, put to fatting. About the end of this Month you may Mow your Rowen, or After-Marth Grass, also your Clover, and other French Grasses will be fit to cut again. This is a good Month to make Cider of Summer Fruits that will not keep. The begin∣ing of this Month is very good to Inoculate in, and to unbind the Buds of those before Inoculated, if taken Sap. Pull up the Suckers from the Roots of Trees, prune away superfluous Branches from your Wall Fruit-Trees, but leave not the Fruit bare, ex∣cept the red Nectorine, which is much meliorated by its being exposed to the Sun. Set Slips of July-Flowers; Transplant Flowers and Garden Plants as Herbs, Strawberrys, &c. gather Seeds of Flowers and Herbs. Sow Cabages, Colly-Flowers, Turneps, and other Roots and Plants for the Winter, and a∣gainst the next Spring. Also sow such Seeds that will endure the Winter. About Bartholomew-Tide is a good Season to transplant all Bulbous Roots; as also Winter Greens. Gather Hops, look after your Bees, and streighten their passages to secure them from Wasps, and those that you intend not to keep, destroy for their Honey.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun Set.	SEPTEMBER 30 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1
2
3
4
5	5. 45	6. 15
6
7			[ 10]
8	Nativity of Virgin
9
10	Mary.
11			Arcturus Sets after the Sun.
12
13	6. 00	6. 00	Sun in Lira, Equinocti∣al.
14	Holy Cross
15
16
17
18			[ 20]
19
20	6. 15	5. 45
21	St. Mathew
22
23
24
25			Spica Virginis is with the Sun.
26
27	6. 30	5. 30	[ 30]
28
29	St. Michael		Plejades Rises in the E∣vening.
30

Gentle Showers are now acceptable for the mellowing the Earth for the Plough, the Wheat-Seed Season being now; but dry and calm Wea∣ther is best for the gathering your Winter-Fruits now ripe; for according to Observation, Sow Wheat in the Dirt, and Rye in the Dust. Geld [ 40] Cattle; put your Boars up to fat: Sew your Fish-ponds; beat out Hemp-seed; and Water your Hemp. Gather Masts; and put your Swine into the Woods: Carry out what Dung you have to be spread on your Wheat-Land before the Plough.

'Tis a good Season to make Cider and Perry of such Fruits that will not keep, or such that are bruised, or the like, in the gathering; but let your long lasting Winter-Fruit hang on the Trees till Michaelmass. Sow Cabages, Colly-Flowers, Turn∣ips, Onions, &c. and transplant such Cabages, and [ 50] Colly-Flowers that were sown in August; also trans∣plant Asparagus Roots, Artichoaks, and Strawberries. Hoe your Turnips, plant Tulips and other Bulbous Roots that you formerly took up; you may also transplant all Fibrous Roots. Be careful of your choise Plants, and Winter Green, setting them in your Conservatory.

This Month puts an end to your gathering and drying your Hops, cleansing the Poles from the [ 60] Hawm, and to set them up for the next Year.

Look after your Bees, destroy the Wasps, &c. streighten the Entrances into their Hives, and de∣stroy those that you intend not to keep, taking away their Honey.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-set.	OCTOBER 31 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1
2			Spica Virginis Rises in the Morning with the Sun.
3
4	6. 45	5. 15
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12	7. 00	5. 00
13
14	Sun in Scor∣pio
15
16
17
18	St. Luke.		Cauda Leonis sets in the Evening.
19
20	7. 15	4. 45
21
22
23
24
25	Crispine.
26
27
28
29	7. 30	4. 30
30
31

This Month proves generally Windy, and fi∣nisheth the Fall of the Leaf.

It is yet a good Seed-time for Wheat, and you may sow your Hotspurs on rich and warm Ground for a forward Crop.

Lay up your Barly-Land dry, water-furrow, and drain your new sown Wheat-Ground.

The time is seasonable for sowing of Nuts, A∣corns; as also other Berries, or Masts for Coppices or Hedgrows.

Plant Quick-sets, and plash your Quick-set Hed∣ges. You may also begin to set Trees.

Wean your Colts foaled of your working Mares at the Spring, and fell off such Sheep that you design not to keep.

This is a good time for making Cider and Perry of your Winter-Fruits, and finish the gathering of such like Fruits.

Sow all sorts of Fruit-Kernels, Stones and Nuts, as well for Trees as Stocks. Cut and prune Rose-Trees.

Plant your Bulbous Roots of any sort, and re∣move Flowers and Herbs with Fibrous Roots, if the former Season was omitted.

Plant Hops, and bag up those you dryed the former Month.

'Tis a good Season for removing Bees.

Trench the stiffer sorts of Ground for Orchar∣ding, and Gardening to lye mellow in the Winter; lay open the Roots of old and unthriving Trees, or such that spend themselves too much, or too soon in Blossoms.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	NOVEMBER 30 Days.
	H. M.	H. M.
1	Alhallon day.
2
3
4
5
6	7. 45	4. 15	Leonard.
7			[ 10]
8
9
10			Virgiliae, or the Seven Stars, sets in the Morning.
11	Martinmas
12	Sun in Sa∣gitarius.		The Bulls-Eye sets in the Morning.
13
14
15
16	8. 00	4. 00	Edmund.
17			[ 20]
18
19
20
21
22
23			Cor Scorpij rises in the Morning.
24
25
26	8. 10	3. 50	The Bulls-Eye rises in the Evening.
27			[ 30]
28			The middle Star of An∣dromeda's Girdle rises in the Morning.
29
30

Seed-time is now well over, and the Markets begin to fill with Corn. Fat your Swine for slaughter. Cast out your Mushy Straw in moist places to rot for Dung. Plant Timber and Fruit-Trees, if the Weather be open. Fell Coppices, and Lop Trees; break Flax and Hemp; destroy Ant-hills; [ 40] trench and dig up Gardens, and sow for∣ward Pease. Furnish your Nursery with Stocks against the Spring. Prune your Fruit-Trees, and cleanse them from Moss. Cider may be made of hard Fruits, that are not pulpy. Sow Nuts and Fruit-Stones. If the Weather is open plant Tulips; also Roses, and several other Plants and Flowers; and those Seedlings, or Layers that are tender, should be covered with Straw, Matresses, Boxes, or the like. Carry Dung into your Hop-Garden to mix [ 50] with Earth to rot against the Spring. Lay up Parsnips, Carots, Cabbages, Colly-flowers, &c. either for use, or to transplant for Seed at the Spring. Cover your Asparagus-Beds, Artichoaks, Straw∣berries, and tender Plants with long Dung, or Horse-Litter, to preserve them from Frosts. Now is a good time to dig up Liquorice.

	Sun-Rise.	Sun-Set.	DECEMBER 31 Days
	H. M.	H. M.
1
2
3	8. 15	3. 45	Right Foot of Gemini sets in the Morning.
4
5			The lesser Dog-Star sets in the Morning.
6
7
8
9
10
11
12	8. 17	3. 43	Sun in Capricorn Solstice.
13
14			Arcturus sets in the Even∣ing.
15
16
17			Cor Hydrae sets in the Morning.
18
19
20	8. 15	3. 45
21	St. Thomas.
22
23
24
25	Christmass.		Right Shoulder of Orion rises in the Evening.
26	St. Stephen.
27	8. 10	3. 50	St. John Evangelist.
28	Innocents.
29
30			The Left Foot of Gemini rises in the Evening.
31

Now begins the Country mans chargeable time for Housing his Cattle, or foddering them abroad. Lop Trees, and fell Coppices; plant all sorts of Trees, as well Fruits as others, provided they are such as shed their Leaves. Let Horses Blood; fat Cattle, and Swine. Destroy Ant-hills, overflow Meadows, and drain your Corn-fields by cutting Water-furrows. It is a good time to Plow for Pease, or Beans. Prune your Vines, if the Weather be open. Keep your Asparagus Beds covered, as directed in November; the like ob∣serve for you Artichoaks, and Strawberries. Trench and dig your Garden Ground to Mellow the Earth against the Spring; and if the Wea∣ther be Mild sow Pease, and set Beans for for∣ward Crops. Set Traps for destroying Vermin, and pick the Snails away from your Wall-Fruit-Trees. Dig up Liquorice, feed the Stocks of Bees that are weak, and cleanse your Hop-Gardens from Weeds.