How to propagate Fruit-Trees.

DIvers ways may be used for the raising of Fruit-Trees, as by Grafting, Inoculating, or Budding; also by Layers, Suckers, and Slips; and likewise from the Seed, Nut or Kernel.

GRAFTING.

THe Art of Grafting, as also Innoculating doth preserve the Species of the most curious Fruits, and meliorates their Gusts or Tasts; for Fruits that are raised from the Kernels do produce most commonly a kind of wild Fruit•ngrateful to the Palate, participating of the wildness of the Stock, on which the Tree was Grafted.

Sometimes Apples, and Pears may happen to be good, being raised from the Kernel; but for Cher∣ries, Plumbs, Aprecocks, Peaches, &c. produ∣ced from the Stone, or Kernel, unless Grafted, or Inoculated▪ are esteemed but of small value.

Things to be observed in Grafting.

YOur first business is to be provided with Stocks, which must be according to the na∣ture of the Tree, you intend to Graft; for ApplesPage  238 the Crab stock is the best; also Stocks raised from every sower Fruit may do, for they bear the best, and soundest Fruit, and the Tree will be the larger, and grow freer from the Canker.

If you would have Dwarf Trees, make choise of the Paradise Apple, either raised from the Ker∣nels, or Layers, for the Branches are as apt to take Root as those of Codlins; But by reason the Paradice Apple is a slow grower, you may graft the Cyon thereof on a Crabstock close to the Ground, [ 10] and when it is grown to the bigness of ones Fin∣ger, graft about eight Inches higher thereon, such Fruit as you would have, which will quicken the growth of the Paradice Apple, and cause the Fruit to be better.

PEARS are to be grafted on Stocks raised from the Kernel, the White Thorn commonly u∣sed is not good.

PLVMS are to be Grafted on Plum Stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones, of which [ 20] sort the great white Pear-plum is esteemed the best; and indeed any that have very large Leaves and Shoots, are good either to Graft any choise Plums upon, or for the Budding of Peaches and Aprecocks.

CHERRIES are best to be Grafted on black Cherry Stocks; but Stocks of a better Nature may be raised from the Stones of the Black-Heart, the Duke, the Amber, and the Morello-Cherries. For the Grafting the May and Early Cherries, the [ 30] Stocks of the common English Cherry is said to be the best, but it is not so good for a Wall as the Morello, or other sorts, as growing too high.

MEDLERS are best to be Grafted on Pear-Stocks.

QVINCES are raised by Cuttings, or Suckers, which being set in good Earth, and kept watered if the Season proves dry, will not fail to grow; and when they have taken Root in Winter, remove them into your Nursery; and in a Year or two [ 40] they will be fit to Graft Pears on for Wall-Fruit, being esteemed better than Pearstocks, as not grow∣ing so high.

APRICOCKS, PEACHES and NECTE∣RINES are usually Innoculated in Plum-stocks raised from Suckers, or the Stones; and those of the white Pear-plum, as aforesaid is the best, as also for Budding of Apricocks, and Peaches; but for the Necterine a Pear-stock is most pro∣per.

GOOSBERRIES and CVRRANS, as also Ser∣vices [ 50] are Innoculated on their own kind.

FILBERTS are raised from Nuts of their own kind, the like are Walnuts.

For the raising Stocks.

BBeing provided with what quantity of Stones and Kernels you design to Sow about October (being then a good Season) let there be a Bed [ 60] of Earth well prepared and dressed, and therein Sow the Kernels of Crabs or such like Apples, and cover them with fine Mould sifted over two or three fingers thick. And for Fruitstones you may prick them down in Rows two or three Fin∣gers deep, with the sharp ends downwards; and in the Winter cover the Beds over with long Dung to preserve them from the cold Frosts, which when the Weather grows warm, as about April, must be taken off. You must keep them clean from Weeds, and in two Years they will be fit to remove into other Beds, to be Planted at greater distances for the conveniency of Grafting.

Cherry-stones are to be Sown, and ordered as Apple kernels: But before you Transplant any of these Stocks, you must cut off such Roots as run down, as also the Tops and side Branches, placing them in Rows, closing well the Earth about them; and be sure to set each kind apart, for the knowing what Fruit it is. When they are grown to a sufficient bigness, of about an Inch in Diameter, they may be fit to Graft in the Cleft; and set not the Roots too deep, as being more Troublesom to remove.

Crab, or Apple-stocks thus raised, are better than those that come from the Wood, or any other ways.

The Nursery thus set, may be ready after one Year to Innoculate, and after two or three Years to Graft.

Trees Grafted on a Gennet Moyl, or Ciderstock, preserve best the tast of a delicate Apple, especi∣ally the Pippin; but on a Crabstock the Tree lasts longer, and hath a more tart palatable relish; the same Rule may be observed in the choise of Stocks for Pears, Plums, Cherries, Aprecocks, &c. for the more Acid the Stocks are, the more life it gives the Fruit.

Although the Fruit doth generally take after the Graft, yet it is somwhat altered by the Stock, either for the better or worse.

The Pear Grafted on a Quince-stock, produceth its Fruit better than the same kind upon a wild Pear-stock, and fairer, much better coloured; and causeth the Trees to bear sooner, and more Fruit.

The Soyl of the Ground designed for the Nur∣sery, ought to be considered, which should be a light Mould, not too rich, nor too barren, and that which lyeth warm, will cause the Stocks to thrive the better.

Gather your Grafts of Plums, Pears, and Cherries from mid January, to mid February, but those of Apples may continue till March.

Choose such as are of two Saps, that the old Wood to the knot may be placed in the Stock; those of one Years Shoot will serve in default of the other; but such will be longer before they come to bear. Make choise of such Grafts that are strongest, and from such Branches that are fullest of Fruit Buds, and aptest to bear; and bind every sort of Graft in bundles by it self, with the Name of the Fruit writ on a Parchment L•bel, lest you should forget the sort; and for your greater care a Book should be kept, where each sort is entred down. These Grafts should be put in the Earth by themselves about half ways, for preserving them fresh until you shall use them.

Grafting is an Artificial placing the Cyon, or Graft of one kind upon the Stock of another, so as the Sap of the Stock may without Impedi∣ment come to nourish the Graft. It is therefore necessary (the Sap passing betwixt the Bark and Page  239 the Wood) that they be exactly joyned, and well bound together, which may be thus done.

The time and Manner of Grafting.

THe best time to Graft is in February, and March, but forward Fruits may be Graf∣ted in January; and some backward Fruits in the beginning of April, provided the Spring be not [ 10] too forward; for the Temperature of the Sea∣son doth very much conduce to the growth or proof of the Graft, as mild Weather in Decem∣ber, or January may be better than Frosty Wea∣ther in February; and indeed such kind of Wea∣ther is not fit to Graft in.

Grafts of any kind being cut before they be∣gin to Spring, may be kept many Days; and carryed a good distance, being bound up in bun∣dles in Moss, and the ends wrapt up in Clay, or [ 02] Stuck in a Turnip; and although they are a little withered, yet they will prove not the worse.

Having your Stocks or Grafts in readiness, as also all your Tools and Materials, as the Pru∣ning-Knife, Pen-Knife, a fine Saw, a Mallet and a Wedge, also Rushes, strong soft Flags, or Wool∣len Yarn to bind the Graft and Stock together; and Clay well tempered with Hors-Dung, to keep it from Choping in dry Weather, or soft Wax for smaller Trees, you may proceed to your work, [ 30] which may be performed several ways.

The first and most usual is Grafting in the Cleft, especially for the middle sized Stocks, and after this manner; First saw of the Head of the Stock in a smooth place, which for Wall or Dwarf Trees should be within four Fingers of the Ground, and for Standards much higher according to the growth of the Stock; then pare away with your Knife the Roughness that the Saw hath left on the Head of the Stock, which done, cleave the Head a [ 40] little besides the Pith, and put therein a long Wedge of hard Wood to keep the Cleft open; which cut smooth with the point of your Knife, that the sides may be even; then cut the Graft on both sides from some Knot or Bud in form of a Wedge, in length proportionable to the Cleft with shouldrings; which Graft being so cut, place exactly in the Cleft, that the inward Bark of the Cyon may closely joyn to the inward part of the Rind, or Bark of the Stock, in which lyes the [ 50] principal skill of the Grafter; then draw out the Wedge: But if the Stock pinch hard, lest it should endanger the dividing the Rind of the Graft from the Wood, to the spoiling the Graft, let the inward side of the Graft that is within the Wood of the Stock be left the thicker, that so the Woody part of the Graft may bear the Stress; or there may be a small Wedge left to keep it from pinching the Graft too hard; and likewise leave the outside of the Graft a little the thicker; and in this business great care is required. The Graft [ 60] being thus fixed into the Stock, your next and last business is to cover the Head of the Stock, with the Tempered Clay or soft Wax for the small Grafts, and leave not the Grafts too long.

There is another way of Grafting much like the former, which is Grafting in the Bark or Rind of the greater Stocks, and differs only in this, that where you cleave the Stocks and fasten the Grafts within the Cleft in the other way, here with a small Wedge made of Ivory, Box, or some hard Wood cut Taperwise, with a thin point you force into the Stock between the Rind and the Wood after the Head thereof is sawn off, and the roughness pared away. Then take the Graft, and at the shoulder or grossest part thereof, cut it round with your small Grafting-Knife; and take off the Rind wholly downwards, preser∣ving as much of the inward Rind as you can; then cut the Wood of the Graft about an Inch in length, and take away half thereof to the Pith, and the other half Taper it away, and set in the place you made with your Wedge, be∣tween the Bark of the Stock and the Wood, that the shouldring of the Graft may joyn close to the Bark, or Rind of the Stock, and then cover it with Clay, as before directed. This way is best to be used when the Stock is too big to be cleft, and where the Bark, or Rind is thick; and here you may set into one Stock many Grafts, and that of several sorts, if you so think fit.

Your great care must be to keep the Top of the Stocks close covered for some time, until the Bark it self hath covered it; for otherwise the Rain will Rot the Stock. And do not leave the Grafts above four or five Inches above the Stocks, for if too long, they draw more feeble, and are more exposed to the injuries of the Weather, nei∣ther do they prosper so well. And observe to Graft your Cyons on the side of the Stock, that may receive the least damage from the South-west wind, so that it may blow into the Stock, and not from it.

There is another way of Grafting, called Shoul∣der, or WHIP-GRAFTING fit only for small Stocks, and to be performed somwhat la∣ter than the former; and this may be done two several ways; first by cutting off the Head of the Stock, and smooth it as in Cleft-Grafting; then cut the Graft from a Knot, or Bud on one side slo∣ping, about one Inch and a half long, with a shouldring smooth and even sloping by Degrees▪ that the lower end may be left thin; place the shouldring of the Graft upon the Head of the Stock, and mark the length of the cut part of the Graft; and with your Knife cut away so much of the Bark, as the cut side of the Graft did cover, but touch not the Wood of the Stock; then place both together, that their Saps may exactly joyn; then bind them together with your Rushes, Flags, or Yarn, and cover the Heads over with Clay, as afore directed.

The other way of Whip-Grafting, is where the Grafts and Stocks are of an equal size, the Stock must be cut sloping upwards from the one side to the other; and the Graft after the same manner from the shoulder downwards, that the Graft may exactly joyn with the Stock in every part; which done, bind them about with your Flags or Rushes, and put Clay about them as a∣foresaid.

This way of Whip-Grafting is esteemed better than Grafting in the Cleft, and for these Reasons, 1. This way requires smaller Stocks; 2. It is less Page  240 injurious to the Stock and Graft; 3. The Wound is sooner healed, and is better defended from the injuries of the Weather; and 4. It is more easy to learn, and to be performed.

There is another way of Grafting called Graf∣ting by Approach, or Ablactation, and this is done in April, sooner or later according to the State of the Spring. It is to be performed where the Stock you intend to Graft on, and the Tree from which you take your Graft or Cyon, stand so [ 10] near together that they may be conjoyned; then take the Sprig or Branch you intend to Graft, and pare away about three Inches in length of the Rind, and Wood near the Pith; cut also the Stock or Branch on which you intend to Graft after the same manner, that they may joyn exactly together, and that the Sap may meet; and so bind them about, and cover them with Clay, as aforesaid.

So soon as you perceive the Graft and Stock to [ 20] unite and incorporate together, cut off the Head of the Stocks, hitherto left on, about four Inches above the binding, and in March following the remaining stub also together with the Graft or Cyon underneath, close to the grafted place, that it may only subsist by the Stock.

Some use to cut off the Head of the Stock at first, then joyn the Cyon thereunto, after the man∣ner of Shoulder-Grafting, differing only in not severing the Cyon from its own Stock; both ways [ 30] are good, but the first most successful.

This manner of Grafting is chiefly used in such nice and tender Plants, as are not apt to take any other way, as Lemmons, Oranges, Pomegranets, Vines, Jessamines, and the like.

You must remember that those Grafts that are bound you must unbind about Midsummer, otherwise the Band will injure them.

There is a new way of Grafting, which is thus done; Take a Graft or Sprig of a Tree you de∣sign [ 40] to propagate, and a small piece of the Root of another Tree of the same kind, or very near it, and Whip-Graft them together, and bind them well, and plant it where you intend it shall stand, or else in your Nursery, which piece of Root will draw sap and feed the Graft, as doth the Stock after the other ways.

Be sure to untie the two But-Ends of the Graft and the Root, and that the Rind of the Root joyn to the Rind of the Graft. By this means the [ 50] Roots of one Crab or Apple-Stock may serve for twenty or thirty Apple Grafts. In like manner you may do for Cherries, Pears, or Plums.

And thus you may raise a Nursery of Fruit-Trees instead of Stocks; and it is esteemed better for the raising of Tender Trees, that will hardly endure the Grafting in the Stock; for here they are not exposed to the injury of the Sun, Wind, or Rain; Also Trees, thus Grafted will bear soon∣er, and the better for Dwarf-Trees. [ 60]

This way is easily performed, and may be done in great quantities in a little time within Doors, and then planted in the Nursery in Rows and Beds, as you do your Stocks.

Of INNOCVLATING, or BVDDING.

THis way of Innoculating, or Budding is by many preferred before Grafting, by which means several sorts of delicate Fruits are propa∣gated and meliorated, which cannot be done by Grafting in the Root; as the Peach, Aprecock or Nectarine rarely thrive any other way than this, because few Stocks can feed the Graft with Sap so early in the Spring as the Graft requires; but be∣ing rightly Innoculated in the fulness of the Sap seldome fails.

The Stocks to Innoculate on are to be the same kinds, as directed to Graft on, but the Peach takes best on its own kind, and the Ne∣ctarine on a Peach Stock.

The best time for this business is from Mid∣summer to mid July, when the Sap is strongest in the Stock, and bark easiest to be raised, and tis best to be done in a dry Season, and in the Evening, for Rain is very pernitious to the Buds; also the Buds must not be too young nor tender, but sufficiently grown. Those of the Aprecock are the soonest ready, and must be taken from strong and well grown Shoots of the same Year.

The Tools, or Instruments required in this cu∣rious Art are the sharp pointed Penk-nife, a Quill cut half away and made sharp and smooth at the end, to divide the Bud and Rind from the Stalk, and Woollen Yarn, Flags, or the like to bind them with all.

Having your Instruments and Buds in readiness, you may proceed to your Work after this man∣ner, on some part of the Stock, either near or further from the Ground, according as you in∣tend it, either for a Wall, Dwarf Tree, or Stand∣ard, and from the middle thereof gently Slit the Bark, or Rind, about an Inch long in form of a T, not wounding the Stock; then nimbly pre∣pare the Bud by cutting off the Leaf, and leave on∣ly the Tayl, about half an Inch from the Bud; then Slit the Bark, on each side the Bud, a little dist∣ance from the Bud, and take away the Bark, a∣bove and below the Bud, like a Sheild, that it may the more easily go down, and unite be∣tween the Bark, and the Stock; then with your Quill dexterously take off the Bark and Bud, that you leave not the Root behind; for if you see a Hole under the Bud on the inside, the Root is gon; cast it away, and prepare another. When your Bud is ready, raise the Bark of the Stock on each side in the Slit (preserving as carefully as you can the inner thin Rind of the Stolk) put in with care the Bud between the Bark and the Stock, thrusting it down until the top joyn to the cross Cut, then bind it close with your Yarn, or Flags, but not on the Bud it self.

There is another way of Innoculating which is more easy, and successful than the former, from which it differs only that the Bark is Slit upwards, from the cross Cut, and the Bud put upwards, leaving the lower end longer than may serve, and when it is in its place, cut off that which is superfluous, and joyn the Bark of the Bud to the Bark of the Stock, and bind it as before direct∣ed.

Page  241 There is also another way, which is to cut the Edges of the Bark about the Bud Square, and cut the Bark of the Stock fit to receive it binding it fast, and this is a sure and easy way.

About three Weeks, or a Month after Innoculat∣ing unbind the Buds, and in the unbinding them you may see which are good by their lively ap∣pearance. In March following cut off the Stock about three Fingers above the Bud, and the next year cut it close, that the Bud may cover the Stock [ 10] as Grafts usually do.

Fruits raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts, and Kernels.

SUch Fruits that are raised from Seeds, Stones, Nuts and Kernels, are Almonds, Services, Chesnuts, Walnuts, Filberts and common Nuts; likewise Oranges and Lemmons; all which are to [ 20] be sown in Beds, and from thence transplanted into your Nursery at convenient distance, where they are to stand until fit to be transplant∣ed.

The best way to raise WALLNVT-TREES is from the Nut; which from the time of gather∣ing you may keep in a Bed of Sand, or Earth, until March, and then plant them; and if you can, in the places where you intend they shall grow, (for transplanting them doth much check [ 30] their growth). You must have a great care to pre∣serve them from Mice which are great destroyers of them.

FILBERTS and NVTS are raised also from the Nut the same way as Wall-Nuts; the like are Chesnuts, &c.

Fruits raised by Layers, Slips and Suck∣ers. [ 40]

THere are several sorts of Fruit Trees raised with more ease from Layers, Slips and Suckers than by Grafting, Innoculating, or from Seed, and such are Vines, Figs, Malberies, Bar∣beries, Currans, Rasberys, Goosberys, Quinces, Cod∣lins, Gennet-Moyls, &c.

For VINES any shoot of the last Year (es∣pecially if a short piece of the former Years groweth be cut with it) will grow, being laid in [ 50] February about a foot and a half within the Ground long-ways, and not above two or three Buds at the most out of the Ground; but you must be very careful to keep them watered in the heat of the Summer.

The FIG-TREE yields Suckers, which is the usual way to encrease them.

The MVLBERRY-TREE is very diffi∣cult to raise; 'tis best thus done. Cut a Bough off, as big as a Mans Arm, which cut into pieces [ 60] about a Yard long, and lay into the Ground (that is rich) about a Foot deep, with one end a∣bout a handful broad out of the Ground, and af∣ter a Year or two being kept watered in a dry Summer Season, divers young Sprigs may be drawn with Roots fit to transplant, and the old Roots will yet send out more.

The BARBERY Tree is raised from Suckers laid into good Earth, as before directed.

RASBERRYS, GOOSBERRYS and CVRRANS are also raised from Suckers, be∣ing all great encreasers.

The CODLIN, as also the GENNET∣MOIL are easily raised by Suckers, and Slips, being apt to thrive in any Ground, but that which is moist is best agreable with their nature.

QVINCES, like unto Codlins, are easily propagated from Suckers, which being set in any moist place, will soon draw Root.

Of Transplanting Trees.

THe best Season to Transplant and set Trees is from Mid•October to the end of January, if the Weather be open; and if the Spring is not too forward in February.

In taking them up out of your Nursery be care∣ful that the Roots be not cut, or broken, especially the Spreading Roots, and let the Roots be left lon∣ger than the Heads, and the more vvays they Spread, the better; but such Roots as run down∣vvards may be taken off; likewise the ends of those that you find too long, as also most of the small Threads vvhere they grovv too thick: you must likewise prune as vvell the Branches as the Roots.

The Ground being prepared vvhere the Trees are to be set, raise a small Hill in the Center of each Hole, vvhich should be vvide made, and thereon set the Tree, opening and spreading the Roots round about it, and cover them vvith the best Earth, and shake the Tree, that the Roots lie not hollovv, treading it dovvn to fasten them.

Plant not too deep, especially in such Ground that is clayish, over-moist or spewy; as also Gra∣velly, or Chalky; but as near the surface as you can, or above it, raising the Earth about the Tree; which vvay one Sr. Josias Child or Wanstead in Essex a great Planter hath observed (to the admiration of Beholders) his Ground lying upon a Gravel; for if Trees are too deep planted, they generally pine away.

It is very necessary to be observed that the Ground vvhere you plant your Trees should be of a richer, and higher Mould than the Nursery from vvhence you take them; otherwise they vvill not thrive so vvell. It is also a great check to take them out of a warm Nursery and trans¦plant them in an open vvide Field free from shelter.

As near as you can, choose young thriving Trees, rather than those that are large, for an Orchard of such young ones vvill soon overtake one planted vvith larger Trees at the same time.

The Mode of planting is novv upon a Square, so that you have a Row, look vvhich vvay you vvill; and for distance thirty or forty foot is very vvell, for then you may make some benefit of the under Ground, either by Grass or Tillage, Likevvise the Trees vvill have more benefit of the Sun and Air than vvhen planted to near or irregu∣lar, and by consequence vvill thrive the bet∣ter, and the Fruit vvill be the fairer and better tasted.

Page  242 You may set your Apple Trees at thirty foot distance, and between every Tree set a Chery Tree, which Method is now much used; for by the time that the Apple Trees will spread to require the place of the Chery Trees, the Che∣ries will have done bearing, which will be in about Twenty Years time; and then they may be cut down and grubbed up, so that you have then a sine Apple-Orchard. And be sure let the [ 10] Rows be of one intire sort of Fruit and not mix∣ed, which is very convenient for the gathering the Fruit, and laying them together in sorts.

PEARS are to be set as Apple Trees, with a Chery betwixt; But for Plums they may be set in the Angles of the Ground, or in Hedg∣rows.

FILBERTS are best to be set to make a Walk, the like may Walnuts; and Codlins are set at a closer distance, being good to make H•d•rows. [ 20]

WALLFRVIT are to be Planted at such a distance as the hight of the Wall, and the Na∣ture of the Fruit requires; for the higher the 〈◊〉 the nearer together, and the lower the far∣ther, that they may have room to spread in breadth, which they want in height.

Of Pruning, Plashing, and ordering of Trees.

IT is found by Experience, that the Pruning of [ 30] Trees, and taking away their dead and un∣necessary Branches, doth much better their growth.

If you would not have the Grafts and Twigs to mount up too high, you may pinch off their tender Tops, which will cause them to put forth side Branches.

In March is the best time to take away the small and Superfluous Branches, giving them a ••nce close behind the Bud, which is much to be [ 40] observed in Pruning.

The old Trees may be Pruned in October, and November; and thence forward until the rising of the Sap.

Wall-Trees are to be pruned in Summer, taking away those Superfluous shoots of the same Years growth, that hinder the ripening of the Fruit; and in the Winter after the Fall of the Leaf you may prune and take away the residue of the Branches that are unnecessary, placing those that [ 50] are fit to remain in order.

Some are of Opinion that the best time for this business, and to nayl the Boughs to the Wall, is in February, after the great Frosts are past, except Peaches and Ne•••rines, which must be pruned when the Buds begin to put forth; for if sooner, it will endanger the killing them.

In pruning of Trees (especially Wall-Trees) be sure to leave the small Twigs that are short and knitted to Blossom the succeeding Year; for if [ 60] you observe such Twigs have the most Fruit, be∣ing usually of two Years growth. But cut off all gross Shoots that will not be easily brought to the Wall.

In Pruning the VINE leave some new Bran∣ches every Year, and take away (if too many) some of the old, which will much further its bear∣ing; And when you cut your Vine, leave two Knots, and cut at the next Interval; for usual∣ly the two Buds yield a Bunch of Grapes, and when (through Ignorance) they are close cut, as for Beauty sake, they commonly bear few or no Grapes.

The Pruning of Trees doth much depend on the Discretion of the Person, who is to consider the growth of every Tree; and what may most conveniently be taken away without leaving the Walls bare.

Divers necessary things to be observed about Fruit-Trees.

THe Roots of such Trees that Thrive not, nor bear well, may be laid open about No∣vember; and if the Ground be poor in the Spring, lay thereto good Fat Mould; but if the Ground be too rich, so that the Tree spends it self in Leaves and Branches, and bears but little Fruit; then put to the Roots, Lime, Ashes, or any Manure that is Hot, Salt and Dry, being mixed with the Earth.

Digging about the Roots of the Trees, adds much to their Fertility, and prevents Moss.

Stones laid in heaps about the Roots, preserve them cool and moist in Summer, and warm in Winter; and cause great Fertility.

If your Orchard is not Naturally warm Seated, and defended from Winds by Woods, Hills, or the like; I would advise you when first you Plant your Orchard, to raise about it a good White-Thorn Hedge, which in a few Years will be a good shelter. Also at some distance beyond the Hedge Plant a Row of Wal-Nut, Chesnut, Popler or Lime-Trees, which growing higher than the Hedge, will the better break off the Wind; But Plant the Trees at such a distance from the Hedge, that the dropings of the Leaves may not fall upon it, which will spoil its grow∣ing.

If the Tree be Bark-bound, and doth not thrive, slit the Bark down the Body of the Tree with your Knife in April or May, which will cure it.

If the cleft where the Tree was Grafted, or any other wounded place be neglected, the Rain is apt to engender the Canker, which is hard to cure, if far gone; and if cutting off the Cankered Branches will not do (it being so much infected) the best way is to cut it down for the Fire, and Plant another in its Room.

In Dunging of Fruit-Trees, the Soyl should be laid not close to the Body, but at some distance where the Roots run; and strong and hot Dung is not so good, as that well rotted and cold, espe∣cially for hot Grounds, but the Soyl of the Streets is far better.

For causing old decayed Trees to bear well a∣gain, about the end of October, or beginning of November, Prune the Trees from their decayed, bruised, and Superfluous Branches; also scrape off the Moss, which is as bad as Ivy is to the Oak; then dig the Earth about the Trees at least a Yard round, and about a Spit deep; and let it Page  243 lye open all the Winter until mid-March, then give the Trees a good Watering, at least a Barrel to a Tree, then lay on some good rotten Dung, and cover it over with the Earth, then about the end of May give each Tree the like Watering, and this will cause them to bear to Admira∣tion.

To prevent the Bliteing of Fruit, when you find there is an Easterly, or a Northeasterly Wind, take three or four Armfulls of Musty Straw, or [ 10] Fern, and that side of the Orchard that the W••d blows on, lay the said stuff in three or four pla∣ces, according to the bigness of the Orchard, and so set Fire to it; and the Wind will drive the Smoak and smother through all the Trees; and thus do every Day so long as the Wind continues in that quarter; and it will prevent all Blites, and all manner of Flies and Catterpillers that these Winds bring.

Orchards that lye low, and near Rivers, have [ 20] their Fruit waterish, puffy, and subject to perish; to prevent which, in October or November lay o∣pen the Roots of the Trees about a Yard and a half in compass, and at least a Spit deep, then fill up the place with Chalk, and let it lye open all the Winter for the Frost to chasten it, and to Incorporate the better with the Earth; and about the end of March throw the Earth upon the Chalk, and give each Tree a good Watering, and your Fruit will be of another tast for goodness; [ 30] and will also be firm, and last as long as if grown on higher Ground.

Having given you sufficient Instructions for the Ordering, Grafting, and Innoculating of Fruit-Trees, I shall conclude this Chapter by giving an Account of the several sorts of Apples, Pears, Plums, &c.

Sorts of APPLE-TREES. [ 40]

GReat are the Variety of Apples, as indeed of all other Fruits, some coming early for Summer Fruit, and others late for Winter Fruit. A Catalogue of the choisest is as follow∣eth.

• The Juniting.
• The King Apple.
• The Margaret or Magda∣len.
• The Famagusta.
• The Giant Apple.
• The good Housewife.
• Pome de Rambures.
• The Winter Queening.
• The Quince Apple.
• The Carlisle Pepin.
• The Bridgwater Pepin.
• The Kirton Pepin.
• The Golden Pepin.
• The Kentish Pepin.
• The Holland Pepin.
• The Green Pepin.
• The Roman Pepin.
• The French Pepin.
• The Italian Pepin.
• The Black Pepin.
• The Russet Pepin.
• The Summer Pepin.
• The Beauford Pepin.
• The Lincoln Rennet. [ 50]
• The Golden Rennet.
• The Great Rennet.
• The Kentish Rennet.
• The Russet Rennet.
• The Red Russet.
• The Round Russet Har∣vey.
• The Harm Russet.
• The Nonsuch.
• The Royal Pearmain. [ 60]
• The Summer Pearmain.
• The Winter Pearmain.
• The Lowins Pearmain.
• The Apple Royal.
• The Darling.
• The Angels Bit.
• The Blandril.
• The Year Apple.
• The Marygold Apple.
• The Palman Apple.
• The John Apple.
• The Pomewater.
• The Sage Apple.
• The Marygold.
• The Marygold Stocken.
• The Rose Apple.
• The David Apple.
• The Davy Gentle.
• The Flower of Kent.
• The Henrietta Maria.
• The Old wife.
• The Gillyflower.
• The Gaunt Apple.
• The Kitchin Apple.
• The Powel Apple.
• The White Coster.
• The Gray Coster.
• The Red Coster.
• The Violet Apple.
• The Cotten Apple.
• The Pome Roy.
• The Boughton Greening.
• The Harvy Apple.
• The Summer Belle Bon.
• The Winter Belle Bon.
• The Breading.
• The Spising.
• The Master John.
• The Master William.
• The Bardfield Queening.
• The French Goodwin.
• The Worcester Apple.
• The Sugar Apple.
• Sops in Wine.
• The Paradice Apple.
• The Fig Apple, which is without Core, or Kernel, and without Blossom, the Fruit coming out of the sides of the Branches, as big as a Pepin.

Several sorts of PEARS.

For the Table.
• The Summer Bon Christi∣en.
• Burgomet de Buga.
• The Great Burgomet.
• The Summer Burgomet.
• The Winter Burgomet.
• The Orange Burgomet.
• Brezid Heri.
• Baeure de Roy.
• The Green Baeure Pear.
• The Violet Pear.
• The Binfield.
• The Greenfield.
• The Great Musk Pear.
• The Great Russet of Renes.
• The Amodotte.
• The Bloody Pear.
• The Rousellet.
• The Winter Bon Christi∣en.
• The Pourtail.
• The Dead Mans Pear.
• The Winter Musk.
• The Dionier.
• The Double Flowered Pear.
• The Dutate.
• The Primating Pear.
• The Red Geneting.
• The Diego Pear.
• The Green Chissel.
• The King Katherine.
• The Queen Katherine.
• The Russet Katherine.
• The Anthony Pear.
• The Berry Pear.
• The Morley Pear.
• The Windsor Pear.
• The Musk Pear.
• The King Pear.
• The Summer Poppering.
• The Green Poppering.
• The Royal Pear.
• The Pinp Pear.
• The Prick Pear.
• The Whorwood Pear.
• The Colveil Pear.
• The Tradescans Pear.
• The Slipper Pear.
• The Twelve penny Pear.
• The Inglefield Pear.
• The Norwich Pear.
• The Orang Pear.
• The Swai•e Pear.
• The Nonsuch Pear.

The Pears for Baking.

• The French Warden.
• The Spanish Warden.
• The Great Warden.
• The Red Warden.
• The White Warden.
• The Green Warden.
• Parkinsons Warden.
• Godboults Warden.
• The Red Roman Warden.
• The Quince Pear.
• The Painted Pear.
• The Tunip Pear.
• The Canterbury Pear.
• The Bell Pear.
• The Black Pear of Wor∣cester.
• The Winter Katherin.
• The Baking Greenfield.
• The Great Surrein.

Other choise Pears brought out of France.

• The Ambrette.
• The Averac.
• The Amadote.
• The Burgomot de la Gril∣liere.
• The Burgomot de Suisse
• The Burgomot de Bugi.
• Baeurre de Autumn.
• Baeurre d' Hyver.
• Bezidery.
• Bezideraisson.
• Bon Chretin d' Espagne.
• Bon Chretien d' este Mus{que}
• Bourdon Musque.
• Brouta Bon.
• Petite Cuisse Madame.
• Double Fleur.
• Epine d' Hyver.
• Frondente de Bresse.
• Lansac.
• Martinsec. [ 10]
• Monsieur.
• Petite Musquat.
• Roy d' Este.
• St. Michael.
• Virgouleuse.
• Vert Longue.
• Messire Jean.

Several sorts of PLVMS. [ 20]

• Yellow and white Plums
• The Amber Primordian.
• The Prunella.
• The Diapered Plum.
• The Marbled Plum.
• The Peascod Plum.
• The White Date.
• The Yellow Date.
• The White Pear Plum.
• The Dutch Plum.
• The Apricock Plum.
• The White Mirabolin.
• the Red Date.
• the Nutmeg Plum.
• Blew Plums.
• the Violet Plum.
• the Primordian.
• the Perdrigon.
• Greenish Plums.
• the Damosine.
• the Green Osterly.
• the Green Perdrigon. [ 30]
• the Verdoch.
• the Peascod Plum.

Red Plums.
• The Red Primordian.
• The Red Muskle Plum.
• The Cheston Plum.
• The Kings Plum.
• The Queen Mother Plum.
• the Damasco Plum.
• the Foderingham Plum.
• the Imperial Plum.
• the Gaunt Plum.
• the Red Peascod Plum.

Black Plums.
• The Morocco Plum.
• the Barbary Plum.
• the Black Damosine.
• the Black Prunello.
• the Muscle Plum. [ 40]
• the Catalonian Plum.
• the Pole Plum.
• the Turkey Plum.
• the Black Year Plum.
• the Pruine Damson.

Several sorts of CHERIES.

• The May Chery.
• the Early Flanders Chery
• the Latter Flanders Che∣ry.
• the Flanders Cluster Che∣ry.
• the Preserving Chery.
• the Morello.
• the Duke.
• the Arch Duke.
• the Carnation.
• the Lukeward.
• the Black Heart.
• the White Heart.
• the Red Heart.
• the Black Spanish.
• the Bleeding Heart. [ 50]
• the Prince Royal.
• the Portugal Chery.
• the Kings Chery.
• the Corone.
• the Biquar.
• the White Spanish.
• the Amber.
• the Hungarian of Zwerts.
• the Ciliegi Birrielone.
• the Dwarf Chery. [ 60]
• the Black Chery of Or∣leance.

Of several sorts of QVINCES.

• the English Apple Quince.
• the Barbery Quince.
• the Brunswick Quince.
• the Lions Quince.
• the Portugal Pear Quince.
• the Portugal Apple Quince.

Several sorts of APRICOCKS.

• THe common sorts known to all.
• The Algier Apricock is a small forward Fruit.
• The Masculine Apricock also an early Fruit.
• The Long Apricock much like the Masculine.
• The White Apricock better than the common sort.
• The Orang Apricock, so called from its deep co∣lour.
• The great Roman Apricock, a fair Fruit good to preserve.

Several sorts of PEACHES.

THe Nutmeg Peach is of two sorts, one white and first Ripe, the other red on the side next the Sun.

The Troy Peach, also an early Fruit, and lar∣ger than the Nutmeg-Peach.

The Savoy Peach hath a fair Fruit, is early Ripe, and of a redish yellow colour.

The Modena Peach comes from the Stone, is of a yellowish colour, and excellent tasted.

The Orleance Red Peach leaves the Stone, be∣ing a fine Stone.

The Morello Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is a fair redsided Fruit.

The Navar Peach cleaves from the Stone, and is of a whitish colour.

The Magdalen Peach is much of the Nature of the Navar.

The Carnation Peach is a very good Standard.

The Alberges Peach leaves the stone, and is a fair yellow Fruit.

The Violet Musk Peach is red on the out side, and yellow within.

The Persian Peach is a fair yellow Fruit, but cleaves to the Stone.

The white Monsieur is red within, and white without.

The Burdeaux Peach is a large Fruit of a dark yellow, but red at the Stone.

The Verona is a very good red Peach.

The Smyrna is a very good yellow Peach.

The Rambovillet is a good dark yellow Peach.

The Peach de Pavie is a good yellow Peach.

The Slane Peach is a good yellow large Peach.

The Fryers Peach is an excellent Fruit.

The Crown Peach is a fair Fruit.

The Newington Peach is a fair and excellent Fruit, of a greenish white, and red next the Sun.

The Billice Peach is something of the Nature of the Newington, as is the Crown Peach.

The Queens Peach is a good large Fruit, of a redish yellow colour.

The Isabellaa Peach is a very good tasted Fruit, of a fair redish yellow colour.

Page  245 The Violet Muscat of a fine Violet colour, and is a good Fruit.

The Colrane Peach is a good red coloured Fruit.

The Roman Peach is a fair yellow coloured Fruit.

The Man Peach is an excellent tasted Fruit.

The Musk Peach is a large beautiful and good tasted fruit.

The Quince Peach so called as resembling the [ 10] Quince.

The Portugal Peach is a good redish coloured Peach.

The Lavar Peach is the same with the Nevar Peach.

The Peach Despot is yellow spotted with red.

The Royal Peach is a large fruit like the Queens Peach.

Several sorts of NECTORINES. [ 20]

THe Green Nectorine is of two sorts, the bigger and the lesser, which is of small e∣steem.

The Yellow Nectorine is also of two sorts, the large and the small, which is the best, and com∣eth from the Stone.

The White Nectorine is not much better than the great yellow.

The Paper White Nectorine is a smaller fruit [ 30] than the White, but better tasted.

The Painted Nectorine is of a good tast, and is full of red Spots.

The Red Roman Nectorine is a fair and well tasted fruit, of a Musky scent, and of a fine red colour on the out side.

The Red Nectorine is an excellent fruit, and leaves the Stone.

The Murrey Nectorine is of a yellowish colour, and not so good as the Roman. [ 40]

The Tawny Nectorine is an excellent fruit, be∣ing red on the out-side, and yellow within.

The Russet Nectorine is of a Brown Russet co∣lour on the out-side, and red at the Stone.

The Orbine Nectorine is a well tasted fruit, be∣ing red on the out-side.

All these aforesaid Nectorines and Peaches are treated of by Rea, fol. 210, and 212.

Peaches and Nectorines are more tender then Apricocks, and the fruit requires more the Sun [ 50] to ripen them; so that they must be Planted on the hottest Wall, that is, such that hath the most influence of the Sun.

If you suffer the middle Stem to grow upright, the side Branches will not prosper, but decay for want of Nourishment, the top drawing away the Sap. Therefore when the Tree is young bow down the Head, and so Nail it to the Wall, which will stop the Sap and cause the Tree to put forth side Branches. [ 60]

Such Trees that are old, and decaying, cut down in March as low as convenience will allow, leaving some Branches to draw up the Sap, and cover the Wound with Clay; and the Stock will put forth new Lances, and in a Year or two come to bear fruit again very plentifully.

Of VINES, and the several sorts of GRAPES.

THe small Black Grape is first ripe, 'tis a well-tasted Fruit, and set thick on the Bunches.

The White Muscadine Grape beareth large Bun∣ches of great Grapes, both of a sweet and plea∣sant tast. Of this Grape there are two sorts; of which one more sweet and pleasant than the other.

The Canada Grape, or Parsley Vine. so called as having its Leaves much like those of Parsley; it is a White Grape, thinly set on Bunches, and late ripe.

The Blood-Red Grape is very good for our Clime. Of which there are several sorts; viz, the sweet Alicant or Spanish Tint Grape, the great black Orleance, which is a very harsh and restrin∣gent Grape; which is usually mixt with the White Grape, to give its colour for the rough Claret.

The Red Muscadine requires much Sun, and is a large Grape.

The Raysin of the Sun Grape requirs also much Sun, and when ripe, is a Red, large, and good tasted Fruit, but hath little Juice, being very fleshy; it is excellent to preserve and pickle.

The Bursarobe Grape requires also very much Sun, otherwise it will not ripen with us: It is an excellent large white and well tasted Grape.

The Frontiniack is a white Musky sweet Grape, and requires so much Sun with us, that it seldome comes to perfection. There is also the Red Frontiniack which is much of the nature of the white.

The Muscat Grapes are very good, and great bearers, but require so much Sun that they ripen very late.

The Burlet is a very large White Grape, chief∣ly fit for Vinegar, as seldome being here ripe.

There are divers other sorts of Grapes found in France, Italy, and other Countreys, which are not fit for our Climate; as indeed many of these aforesaid, so that 'tis unnecessary to repeat their Names.

Vines prosper best in a dry, gravelly, or stony Ground; the wet, stiff or clayish Soyl being not agreable to their natures; but the sandy light Soyl is the best. They affect much Sun, and delight to be sheltered from the cold Winds. Every Win∣ter the Roots should be opened, and Ashes or good rotten Dung, put thereto, being well mixt with the Earth. From Christmass to the end of February is the Season to prune the Vines, as before directed; but not until they have had two Years growth. About the end of August clear the Vines from those Superfluous Leaves and Bran∣ches that obstruct the ripening of the Grapes.

Vines are easily encreased by laying the new Branches in the Earth, or by Cuttings, which within a Year or two will be fit to transplant, as occasion requires; and whilst they stand unremoved, they must be yearly pruned, as the Vines.

Page  246 Thus much may suffice concerning the plant∣ing of Vines about your House and Walls. It will not be amiss, since I am entred on this Fruit, to lay down some Rules for the ordering a Vine∣yard. And the rather for that it is now coming into fashion amongst the curious of our Gentrey; All which I shall set down, as received from the hands of that Honourable, worthy, and truly experi∣enced Person in these, and the like affairs, Charles Howard Esquire, Brother to the late Duke of [ 10] Norfolk.

First, You must be provided with a dry piece of Ground, of a Chalky bottom, covered with a light Mould on the Top, but a fat sandy Soyl is best; which should be on the side of a Hill, ex∣posed to the South Sun. Let the Ground be well digged, broken small, and cleared from Weeds in the Summer before Michaelmass; then from November to March, when the Weather is fair and open, plant your rooted Vines of a years [ 20] Root in streight Rows, at about a Yard asunder, and very shallow; yet so that the Roots be cover∣ed. The first Summer do not prune them, but let them grow, only keep them clean from Weeds, and set Stakes close to each Root about a foot high, to which fasten the strongest shoot, and let the o∣ther branches fall down as they will. In April, or the begining of May following, just as they begin to bud forth their Leaves, bow the top of each Vine archwise to the next Stalk, and there [ 30] fasten it, and from this bowed Branch will come out new Shoots, which will produce Grapes that will hang down to the Earth, which will be the sweetest. And this is all that is done to them un∣til pruning time, which is from the end of Janua∣ry till March; and then cut away the Branch that was tied the last year to the Stalk, and arched down as low as an Eye, but one or two at the most, and tie up another of the strongest Bran∣ches for the Stock, instead of the former, prun∣ing [ 40] away all the other Branches within an Eye or two of their Bottoms; for the fewer Branches you leave to the Root, the more Grapes you shall have the following Year.

Every Year the Ground in your Vineyard must be well diged, but not very deep, and cast the fresh Mould in the Paths to the Roots of the Vines, laying all plain and even and free from Weeds: Also in Summer you must Hoe up the Weeds, for the barer the Earth is kept in the Al∣leys, [ 50] it is the better; but about the Roots the Earth must not be stirred in Summer, nor in the bearing time; but the elder the Vineyard is, the deeper it should be diged, and turned up yearly, and old rotten Dung or Ashes should yearly in February or March be mixt with the Mould; but use not too great a quantity of Dung.

The best kinds of Vines to be planted in our Clime for a Vineyard, are the white and red Mus∣cadine, and the Frontiniack. [ 60]

When your Vines begin to decay through age, plant Young ones in their rooms; but they will continue a great while before Age decays them.

Keep the Vine-stocks about a Foot high, from whence let the Shoots yearly come forth, pruning all the Branches, except one or two of the strong∣est, within an Eye or two of the head of the old Stock; but prune not close to the Stock, ex∣cept such Branches that you would have to shoot again; for too many Shoots from a Stock will hurt the Root; therefore leave but a few; and the best Cuttings are from a Branch that spreads most in the midst of the Tree, and not from the lowest or highest Branch, having five or six Joynts from the old Stock.

Of the FIG-TREE.

THe Fig-Tree is of several sorts, and all most fit to be planted against the Wall, where they may have the benefit of the Sun. These following are the chief sorts.

The great blew Fig; The Dwarf blew Fig; The flowering Fig; the white dwarf Fig; the Langue∣dock Fig, and the Marcelles Fig; of all which the great blew Fig is most fit for our Clymate, and is easily encreased from Suckers and by Lay∣ers.

Of the SERVICE TREE.

THe common Service-Tree grows wild in many places; but there is a kind like the Hors-Chesnut, common in France, whose Fruit is much larger and better than the common sort. They are raised from the Berries which must be sown as Haws in Beds; they are also encreased by Suckers or Sets.

Of the MVLBERY-TREE.

THis Tree is of several Sorts; the Fruit or Berries being of three colours, viz. black, white and red.

The Black groweth to a large well Spread Tree, whose Fruit at first is green, and when ripe, is black.

The White Mulbery groweth not so large, is thiner set with Branches, and the Fruit is smaller, and of a sweet tast.

The Virginian Mulbery groweth to a large Tree, the Fruit is long and red, and of a pleasant tast.

The CORNELIAN CHERYTREE.

THis Tree hath its Flowers, or Blossoms small, yellow, and comes early, but the Fruit is late ripe being shaped like a small Olive; and for colour some are of a shining red, others yellow, with red Sides, and some almost white. The Fruit is chiefly used Phisically, being preser∣ved.

The BARBERY-TREE.

THis is a common Tree, but there are two sorts something rare; the first hath many Branches of Berries that are without Stones, and some on the same Bush with Stones. The other differs from the common, in that the Berries are as large again, and far better for preserving. These Plants, are exceeding great encreasers from the Suckers.

The MEDLER TREE.

THis Fruit is of no great Esteem, and would be less did it not come when all others are gone. There are said to be in France, Medlers without Stones; and had we this sort, it would be of some Esteem.

The FILBEARD TREE. [ 10]

THis Tree is well received amongst all; there are three sorts, more rare than the com∣mon known amongst us, viz.

The White Filbeard is the most common.

The Red Filbeard also common.

The Filbeard of Constantinople, which is much like the White, but hath its Kernel larger and better. [ 02]

The NVT TREE.

THe great round Nut which is thicker shelled and bigger than any other sort, the Kernel being as big as other Nuts, with their Shells on.

The great long Soft-shell'd Nut hath its Ker∣nel as big as an Almond, and very well tasted.

All these sorts of Nuts and Filbeards are plen∣tifully raised from Suckers, as well as sown of [ 30] the Nuts.

Goosberry Trees.

THese are common in all Gardens, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the Yellow and White Dutch Amber. There is a sort which is a small Red Berry, of no great Esteem, but the large preserving Goosberry is of Esteem. [ 40]

Curran Trees.

THese like Goosberrys are common, and easily encreased from Suckers; the best sorts are the large Red and White. There is also a Black sort, which as yet is something rare, and indeed is like so to continue, as not being much received, only for a curiosity more than for use, as the o∣thers are, which makes excellent Wine, if well [ 50] ordered, being of a very strong body, and lasting.

Having treated of the several sorts of Fruits, in the next Chapter I shall apply them to use; laying down some Directions for the making Wines, Cyder, Perry, &c. [ 60]