of the Order: As to the first of these, it was Ordained by the Constitutions of his Office, That as often as any Knight should happen to be Installed, he might chal∣lenge for himself the Garments worn by him, immediately before his Investiture with the Surcoat of the Order. And the constant practice hath interpreted this, to be the Knight's upper Garment, anciently a short Gown, of later times a Cloak, but now a Coat; which he puts off in the Chapter-house, when the Investiture begins.
When Garter had received the Gown of Philip King of Castile, immediately before his Investiture with the Robes of the Order, an. 22. H. 7. he came before the Soveraign, and humbly besought him to give thanks to the King, who, for his sake, had bestowed it on him, which the Soveraign accordingly did.
Heretofore, when Garter had received the Knight's Gown, he immediately put it on, and wore it during the whole Ceremony of Installation, and there∣fore the Gown of Henry Duke of York, second Son to King Henry the Seventh, though he was very young when installed, was made large enough for Garter's use. But because this short Gown hath been so long out of fashion, as to be well nigh forgotten, we shall therefore mention several of the kind, wherein their description will appear remarkable enough, both for their materials, and the then fashionable Trimmings.
King Henry the Seventh's Gown, at his assumption of the Soveraign's Stall, was made of Black Velvet, and lined with Cloth of Gold, full of red Roses. Prince Arthur wore a Gown of Crimson Velvet, lined with Black Velvet, when he proceeded to his Installation. And the Gown made for the foresaid Henry Duke of York, was of Crimson Velvet, lined with Black Sattin.
In the Reign of King Henry the Eighth, the materials of some of the Knights Gowns, were as followeth.
The Lord Dudley's, of Tinsel Sattin Violet, lined with Black Sarcenet. The Lord Howard's of Tawney Velvet, furr'd with Leopards. The Lord La Ware's, of Tawney Velvet, lined with Black Bogye. The Earl of Devonshire's, of Cloth of Silver, lined with Cloth of Gold. The Viscount Lysle's of Black Velvet, furr'd with Black Bogye. The Lord Fitz. Walter's, of Black Damask, and double Black Velvet. Henry Fitz Roy Duke of Richmond, of Black Sattin, with Buttons and Aglets of Gold on his Sleeves, and furr'd with Sables. The Earl of Arundel's of Tawney Velvet, lined with Black double Sarcenet. The Earl of Westmerland's of Black Velvet, lined with Sattin, with Aglets of Gold. The Earl of Oxford's, of Black Sattin, lined with Jennets. The Lord Russell's of Black Velvet, lined with Black Sattin. The Coat of King Philip (installed an. 1. & 2. Ph. & Mar.) was embroidered on Velvet, with Gold-Wire, of Gold∣smiths work, and lined with White Taffaty: His Gown was made of Purple Velvet, garnished with the same, and twisted Silver Lace laid on the Gard; his other Coat of Velvet embroidered with Silver, lined with White.
This kind of upper Garment or Gown continued also in fashion, a great part of Queen Elizabeth's Reign, for we likewise find, that the Earl of Leicester's Gown was made of Velvet, garded with four gards of the same, and thereon 38 pair of Aglets. The Lord Burghley's of Taffaty, with three gards of Velvet, and three dozen of great Buttons of Gold. The Lord Buckhurst's of Velvet, with a broad embroidery gard, and Buttons of Gold. The Lord Shandos of Sattin, with a broidered gard of Velvet, and two dozen of Gold Buttons. The Earl of Worcester's of Velvet lined with double Sarcenet, with a paceman Lace about it. The Duke of Norfolk's of Black Sattin, furr'd with Squirrels, faced with Sables, with—pair of Aglets. The Earl of Bedford's such ano∣ther Gown, but had a Silver Lace about it. The Lord Hunsdon's of Sattin, furr'd with Luzarts, and garded with—The Earl of Warwick's of Russet Sattin, embroidered all over with Russet Lace, and furr'd with Cony. The Duke of Northumberland's was a loose Velvet Gown, furr'd with Pavilion, and had a falling Cape.
But at length, the fashion of this upper Garment began to alter, and by that time Iohn Casimire, Count Palatine of the Rhyne, was received into the Order,