The institution, laws & ceremonies of the most noble Order of the Garter collected and digested into one body by Elias Ashmole ...

CHAP. VI. (Book 1)

THE Statutes and Annals OF THE Order. (Book 1)

SECT. I. Of the Statutes of Institution.

AMong Societies in general, it hath been found expedient, to plant Rules for them to walk by: Order and Regularity being not only the beauty and Symmetry of Government, but the parent of that Being, which greatly contributes to their perpetuity: Besides, Sta∣tutes and Rules, are as well the Bounds to determine, as Bonds to unite Fellowships and Societies together; and if either through negligence fall into disuse, or be unadvisedly broken, they readily open a way to dissolution and ruine.

Upon such like considerations therefore, that most famous, happy, and victo∣rious Prince, King Edward the Third (after he had advisedly determined the Erection of this most noble and renowned Order of the Garter) did most pru∣dently a 1.1 devise and institute several laudable Statutes and Ordinances, to be duly

observed and kept within the said Order; which being collected into one Body, are called the Statutes of Institution.

The original of these was Ordained to be safely kept within the b 1.2 Treasury of the Colledge of Windesor, but hath long since wholly perished, yet there is a Transcript of them recorded in the Reign of King Henry the Fifth, at the begin∣ning of the old Book, called Registrum Ordinis Chartaceum; a Copy whereof we have placed first in rank of the Infections and Autographs in the Appendix: ne∣vertheless, bearing the marks of the Transcribers negligence or inadvertency, as will appear in several places, by the words we have supplied in the margent, warranted by two ancient Exemplars of this Body of Statutes.

The first of which, written in an ancient hand, I had communicated to me by the favour of the late Lord Hatton, that noble Patron of all good learning and learned men. But 'tis evident these were not the Original Statutes, from a part of the 10. Article, where speaking of the penalty for a Knight's not coming to Chapter on the Eve of the Grand Feast, at the assigned hour, it is there added, Concerning which there is a Decree extant. So also in the 12. Article relating to the penalty, where a Knight-Companion is found without his Garter; the pay∣ment whereof is there appointed to be made after the same manner, as those who sailing in like sort have been used to pay. And lastly, the 33. Article here is whol∣ly added out of King Henry the Fifth's Body of Statutes. This Exemplar next follows the Transcript of the Original Statutes in the Appendix, and where we have occasion, is cited thus, Ordinis Statuta in Bibliotheca Hattoniana.

Another Exemplar of the Founder's Statutes is registred at the beginning of the Black Book of the Order, it being the same in substance, put only into purer Latin, and the Articles rendred in a more eligant stile; yet there is one thing must not slip our observation, that whereas in the 17. Article of the Statutes entred in the Registrum Chartaceum, the Title of Marquess and Viscount, with the propor∣tions they were decreed to pay c 1.3 an. 24. H. 8. upon the death of each Knight-Companion, are both interlined by another hand, and with fresher Ink, this Exem∣plar hath put them into the Text: But the same Titles being not interlined in the 22. Article, in the said Register (where there is a like occasion to speak of the Degrees of Nobility in the Order) are also omitted in that very Article of this Exemplar: which is a sufficient Argument, to manifest that it was compiled from the Statutes in the Registrum Chartaceum; and as to the time, after the 24. year of King Henry the Sixth, at soonest. These also are printed next the former Ex∣emplar, and cited under this Title, Ordinis Statuta in Libro Nigro.

SECT. II. Of those other Bodies of Statutes since established.

BEsides these Statutes made at the Institution of the Order, there are two other Bodies or Exemplars established since; the one by King Henry the Fifth, and the other by King Henry the Eight.

King Henry the Fifth, that happy restorer of the honor of the Order, having (at his entrance to the Royal Throne) found its glory upon abatement, not only raised it to its former lustre, but very much increast the honor thereof. For He renewed the Grand Festival and other Solemnities, He commanded a strict obser∣vation of all the Founders Statutes, and d 1.4 brought many more to a like perfection, which He subjoined to such of them where they properly might be inserted, and are these that follow.

Article

• 3. That the Knights should make their obeysance in the Choire, first to the Altar, and next to the Soveraign.
• ...

• 8. That the Deputy should elect, if the Soveraign (when abroad) had not six Knights with him.
• 9. That the Feast of St. George should not be kept on St. Marks day, May-day, &c.
• 12. That when a Knight should ride, he might wear a Blue Ribband instead of his Garter.
• 14. That the order and manner of offering up the Atchievements of deceased Knights, should be such as is there prescribed.
• 20. That Knights absent in the Soveraigns service, might be Installed by Deputy.
• 31. That the Soveraign should take a Signet of the Order abroad with him.
• 34. That no Charge should be admitted upon the Colledge, by the Custos or Ca∣nons, without the Soveraigns consent.

The Statutes of Institution, with these Additions, this King caused to be tran∣slated into French, and transcribed into a Roll, the Transcript whereof was lent me by the right honorable Basill Earl of Denbigh, a person who through an in∣dustrious search into his own ancient Evidences, is become fortunately happy, by adding thence great light to his e 1.5 high and noble Descent; and a no less en∣courager of, than really affected with the Studies of venerable Antiquity.

This Roll (as before the Statutes of Institution) was Ordained to issue out thenceforth to the Knights-Companions under the f 1.6 Common Seal of the Order. In af∣ter times it was transcribed into Books; and by a Decree pass'd an. 3. H. 7. an g 1.7 Ori∣ginal Book of these Statutes and Institutions fair written, was to be laid up in the Colledge of St. George; and the Scribe or Register to have Transcripts of it in readiness to present the Elected Knights withall.

The last and largest Body was undertaken and compleated, by that munificent increaser of the splendor of this most Noble Order, King Henry the Eighth; chiefly in regard some of the former Statutes were obscure, doubtful, and need∣ed further explication; others wanted reducing and contraction, where the necessity of the case required.

And to set this worthy work on foot, this Soveraign gave Order (in a Chap∣ter held at h 1.8 Greenwich on St. George's day, anno regni sui 9.) i 1.9 That all the Knights-Companions should be carefully summoned, to assemble together in the year then next following (whilst the solemnity of the Feast lasted) to consult and conclude upon the abrogation of such things as tended to the dishonor of the Order (if any such were) and for the advancement of other things that might augment and promote the honor thereof, but it seems there was not any thing done thereupon.

Afterwards, to give greater reputation to this his Royal design, this Soveraign on the k 1.10 28. of May in the 11. year of his Reign, entred upon this great and no∣ble work, with all magnificent Ceremony, being accompanied with l 1.11 19 Knights-Companions of the Order, all m 1.12 proceeding on Horseback to the Chapter-house at Windesor; where being entred, and consideration had of the old Statutes; the n 1.13 Knights-Companions, with all due reverence, intreated the Soveraign to reform and explain them, as he should think convenient; who thereupon determining so to do, the whole Company gave their advice and consent. That done, all present be∣sought the Soveraign, kneeling, that where any of them had o 1.14 offended, in breaking any Ordinance concerning the Order, he would please to remit it, and give them a general pardon, which most benignly he granted, and the next day, in Chapter, ratified it to them.

But it seems this undertaking held yet p 1.15 three years, before it came to per∣fection; nevertheless then, viz. the 23. of April, anno 14. H. 8. the Soveraign out of q 1.16 right singular, love, good zeal, and entire affection to this most Noble Order, to the estate of Chivalry, and the continuance and increase thereof; as also at the hum∣ble request and instant desire of the then Knights-Companions, and by their advice, counsel, and consent did make Interpretation, and Declaration of the obscurities, doubts, and ambiguities of the former Statutes and Ordinances.

And having r 1.17 reformed divers things in them, he thereunto made several

s 1.18 additions, no less necessary than expedient. The t 1.19 Original whereof being signed and sealed, was commanded to be carefully laid up, in the Treasury of the Colledge at Windesor, there to remain to succeeding times, notwithstanding which, it hath not been seen there these many years past.

The Articles and Clauses added to the former Statutes in this last Body are these.

Article

• 1. That the interpretation of the Statutes, &c. belongeth to the Soveraign.
• 2. The three points of Reproach, declared; and what is meant by a Gentle∣man of Blood.
• 4. Of the Prorogation of the Feast.
• 5. How the Feast is to be observed by absent Knights.
• 6. Attendance on the Soveraign, if he be not at the Feast.
• 7. That the Soveraign's Deputy may correct things in Chapter.
• 12. The Offering up of Atchievements, and a Taper armed with a Scutcheon.
• 13. Canons to sit in the lower Stalls, when any Knights are present.
• 14. That six Knights make a Chapter.
• 20. The manner of Installation set down.
• 21. Clause for a forreign Knight's Deputy to be conducted from the Chapter-house to his Stall; and for making an Election void, if the Knight send not his Proxy within seven months.
• 23. For Advancing and Translating of Stalls.
• 25. Plates not to be larger than the first Founders, except Strangers.
• 38. Concerning the Collar of the Order.

This Body of Statutes was compiled in Latin, and is recorded in the u 1.20 Black Book of the Order; it was translated into w 1.21 French and English by Sir Thomas Wriothesley. Knight, then Garter King of Arms: The English Version is that which hath been since delivered (instead of the former Statutes) to all succeed∣ing Knights-Companions, according to the Injunction, but of late times appoint∣ed to be sent to Forreign Princes, and other Elect Knights abroad, x 1.22 sealed with the Great Seal of the Order, affixed to a Label of Blue Silk and Gold.

Where this Book hath been delivered to a Knight-Companion at the Soveraign's charge, the Knight's y 1.23 Executors are obliged to send it back to the Colledge of Windesor, and there to deliver it to the Custos or Register of the Order. And be∣cause this Law was defective in point of time, therefore King z 1.24 Henry the Eighth's Statutes appoint the same to be sent to either of them (or to one of the principal Officers of the Order, for the time being) within three Months next after the de∣cease of such Knight-Companion.

And yet besides these three Bodies, most eminently known by the title of Sta∣tutes, there was another drawn up and published, anno 7. E. 6. the Reformation of Religion here in England giving the occasion; but it being within few Months repealed by * 1.25 Queen Mary, his Sister and Successor, before it received the life of Execution, and not since revived, we suppose it not proper to rank it in the Appendix or make any use thereof in the following Discourse.

In the Month of December 1666. the Right Reverend Father in God Matthew Wren, late Lord Bishop of Ely, shewed me a Manuscript, compiled by himself, about the year 1631. being at that time Register of this most Noble Order: where∣in by way of Comment upon King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, he briefly shews (out of the Statutes and Annals of the Order) what alteration there hath been in the Law of the Garter, both before and since. It is a work composed with a great deal of judgment, and exceeding useful; and had it been my good hap to have met therewith before I had so neer finished this Work, the ready directions there∣in would have eased me of much toil, whilst I was about the composing it.

SECT. III. Several endeavours for Reforming the Statutes, since the Reign of King Henry the Eighth.

AS the Kings of this Realm, immediately at their attaining the Crown, do become Soveraigns of this most Noble Order of the Garter, and conse∣quently the a 1.26 Supream Law, and Interpreters thereof; so is the regulation of the whole their undoubted Prerogative; and this hath been evidenced in nothing more fully than from their constant course in exercising the power, not only of making and establishing, but changing and altering the Laws and Statutes there∣of; which upon interest of Religion, pleasure of the Soveraign, change of times, or any other fit or necessary Occasion, hath from time to time been done by them. Upon this ground was it, that King Edward the Sixth went about to alter and reform such things in preceding Statutes as seemed not consistent with the Re∣ligion he had established in England. To which purpose, at a Chapter holden at Greenwich, the 23. of April in the 3. year of his Reign, it was agreed, b 1.27 That the Lord St. John, the Earl of Arundel, and Sir William Paget should peruse over the Statutes of the Garter; and that the same should be reformed, and made agreeable to the Kings Majesty's other proceedings, by the advice of the Duke of Somerset Lord Protector, and other Companions of this Noble Order.

This was seconded by another Order, made also in Chapter at Greenwich, on St. Georges day in the following year; where it was agreed, c 1.28 That the Book of Sta∣tutes should be reformed, and thereupon the Soveraign delivered to the whole Com∣pany, a Book, wherein was contained certain Statutes, by the same to be corrected and reformed as they thought best, until the next Chapter.

But it seems, nothing was as yet done, in pursuance of either of these Orders, for at the next Feast, on the 24. of April, anno 5. E. 6. another Order past, d 1.29 im∣powering the Duke of Somerset, the Marquess of Northampton, the Earls of War∣wick, Arundel, Bedford, and Wiltshire, to peruse over the Statutes and other Books of the Order, and the same to be reformed; as aforesaid.

This third Order it seems took more effect than the former; for thereupon a new Body of Laws was collected together (wherein some things were reformed, others newly added; but in effect the Laws of the Order very much altered) and published March 17. anno 7. E. 6. But this King dying within four Months after, the very first thing Queen Mary (his Sister) took care for, in reference to the Af∣fairs of this Order, was to see these new statutes abrogated and made void.

To which purpose in a Chapter held at St. Iames's House, the 27. of September next following her coming to the Crown, it was among other things Decreed and Ordained, e 1.30 That the said Laws and Ordinances, which were in no sort f 1.31 conve∣nient to be used, and so impertinent and tending to novelty, should be abrogated and disanulled; and no account to be made of them for the future.

And for the speedy execution of this Decree, command was then also given to Sir William Petre (who that g 1.32 day was admitted Chancellor of the Order) to see, h 1.33 that they should be speedily expunged out of the Book of Statutes, and forthwith defaced; left any memory of them should remain to posterity: and only those Decrees and Ordinances, which her Father, and his royal Predecessors had established, should be retained and observed.

It may be also noted, that in this particular of Reformation, King Philip her Husband appeared no less zealous: for on the 5. of August, an. 1. & 2. Ph. & Mar. (which was the third day after he had been invested, with the Habit and Ensigns of the Order) himself being pres••nt at a Chapter in Windesor Castle, it was then Ordained; i 1.34 That all Acts and Decrees being recorded in divers places of the Great Book (to wit, the Black Book of the Order) which were repugnant and

disagreeable either with the ancient and received Statutes of the Order, or else with the Laws of the Realm; should clearly be abolished and taken away; by the Mar∣quess of Winchester, the Earls of Arundel, and Pembroke, and the Lord Paget.

And we no sooner see Queen Elizabeth ascending the Throne, but shortly after, on St. George's day in the 2. year of her Reign, a view of the Statutes is com∣mitted (by Commission) to four of the Knights-Companions, namely the k 1.35 Mar∣quess of Northampton, the Earls of Arundel, and Pembroke, and the Lord Howard of Effingham: l 1.36 Who were thereby impowered to read over and consider those Statutes, and being so read over and viewed, to consider with a watchful care and diligence, if any of them were disagreeable to the Religion, Laws, and Statutes of this Realm; and if any such were found, the same to be faithfully represented to the Soveraign, to the end that She, with the Knights-Companions, might establish such Decree con∣cerning them, as she should think fit.

Whether any thing was done pursuant hereunto, or not, doth not appear in the Annals of the Order, or any where else that we have seen; nor do we conceive there was, or that this Soveraign saw much cause, to alter the frame of those Statutes, which King Henry the Eighth had established, and Queen Mary con∣firmed; since the Books of Statutes delivered to the Knights-Companions at their Installations, throughout her Reign, were no other than Transcripts of her Fa∣ther's Body of Statutes, and besides, the practice of her time was generally pur∣suant to the direction therein; except in some few things, now and then added or altered, at future Chapters, when there arose new cause for so doing; of which we shall give an account as the matter occurs.

After her Reign, King Iames, her Successor, observing the obscurity and dis∣agreement of some passages among the Statutes, attempted something towards their reformation, and in reference thereto, the m 1.37 14. of May, in the 9. year of his Reign, Decreed, That Commissionary Letters should be made forth to the Earls of Nottingham, Worcester, Pembroke, and Northampton, whereby power should be given them, n 1.38 to examine the Registers, and other Monuments, which pertained to the Order; and where any thing should be found obscure, to make it cleer, where contrariety appeared, fitly to reconcile it, yet with no endeavour of innovating any thing, but an intention of renewing all things, as neer as might be to the first and most ancient Institution of the Order: Saving always power to himself, as Soveraign of the Order, to add or change any thing (according to the occasion) as it should seem agreeable to his prudence, for the honor of this most Noble Order. What was done hereupon appears not, but some few years after, this Affair was revived, and the following Commission issued forth.

Iames R.

JAmes by the grace of God King of Great Britain, * 2.1 France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, and Soveraign of the most Noble Order of the Garter,

To our Right trusty, and Right well beloved Cousi••s and Councellors, Charles Earl of Nottingham, and Edward Earl of Worcester, and to our right trusty, and right well beloved Cou∣sin Henry Earl of Southampton, and to our right trusty, and right well beloved Cousin and Councellor Thomas Earl of Arundel, and to our right trusty, and right well be∣loved Cousins, Philip Earl of Montgomery, and Robert Viscount Lisle, Knights and Companions of our said Order, Greeting;

Whereas, ever since our coming to the Crown of this our Realm of England, We have had a special care to maintain and up∣hold the dignity and honor of our most Noble Order of the Garter, whereof we are Soveraign, as to the world hath well appeared, both by our careful observation at all due times of all the Ceremonies and Solemnities belonging to the same, and also by the choice we have made of Noble and Worthy persons, whether Princes of Forreign Nations, or Subjects of our own Kingdoms, to supply the places which have been void of that Society. Now forasmuch as We are not ignorant that in all humane Consti∣tutions, there may be not only Ambiguity, suffering doubtful Interpretation, but also defect, for which addition is requisite, the same best appearing in time, which is the producer and tryer of truth, We have therefore thought fit, out of the knowledge and

experience we have of your understanding and wisdom, and the confidence we repose in your faithfulness and sincerity, being men of honor, and Knights and Compani∣ons of our said Order, to nominate you six, and to appoint you, or any four of you, to take an exact view of all the ancient Statutes and Articles of our said Order. And do give unto you, or any four of you, full power and authority to call before you all such persons, whether Officers of our said Order, or others, as can give you light or infor∣mation concerning the same; and after a serious consideration thereof had by you all, or four of you, We will and require, that you set down in writing, what in the said ancient Statutes and Articles, you shall conceive meet to be explained, and what to be added, whereby our said Noble Order may be made more famous and illustrious, that the same being presented to us the Soveraign and the Society, at a Chapter holden, may be resolved on, in part or in all, to be put in execution, if to us it shall seem so good. Given under the Seal of our said Order, at our Palace of Westminster, the 26. day of April, in the sixteenth year of our Reign, &c.

Notwithstanding the powers and directions given by this Commission, the pro∣gress in this business was very slow paced, but towards the later end of his Reign, the Earls of Worcester, Montgomery, Arundel, Surry, and Leicester, four of the six Commissioners above-named, having had divers meetings, and debated se∣veral things represented to them; did at a Chapter holden at Whitehall, the 19. of May, anno Iac. Regis 20. present to the Soveraign certain Articles, subscribed with their hands, which for the Honor of the Order they thought necessary to be observed.

By the first of which they endeavoured to provide for a further progress and advance of the same, in proposing, o 2.2 that every year a Commission from the Sove∣raign should be given or continued to such Knights of the Order, as in Chapter should be thought fit; to consider of all things to the Order belonging; and that the year following an account by the Knights in Chapter should be given of their proceed∣ings, by virtue of the said Commission.

This with 8 other Articles, were p 2.3 confirmed by the Soveraign, and twelve of the Knights-Companions, the q 2.4 22. of May following, in a Chapter held at Whitehall.

And so happily and effectually went this work forward, that on the Feast-day of St. George held at Windesor in the ensuing year, the said Earl of Worcester (be∣ing then the Soveraign's Deputy for that Feast) with ten Knights-Companions more, did agree to eight other Articles (most of them concerning the Alms-Knights) which the next morning were r 2.5 approved of by the Soveraign; and that day, be∣fore the celebration of Divine Service, by the Soveraign's Deputy, and Compani∣ons assembled in the Chapter-house, s 2.6 the observation thereof was also Decreed.

And now to come neerer, even to the Reign of his late sacred Majesty, King Charles the First, of ever blessed and glorious memory, who while it lay in his power, was (and much more would have been, had not the angry Fate of our late times opposed) the greatest Increaser of the Honor and Renown of this most Illustrious Order: He, I say, taking into his princely thoughts all things whatso∣ever, which carried any shew or probability of adding lustre thereunto, designed and endeavoured, the most compleat and absolute Reformation of any of his Predecessors.

And first, at the Solemnity of St. George held at Windesor the a 2.7 6. day of October in the 6. year of his Reign, He commissionated nine of the Knights-Companions, namely, the Earls of Molgrave, Pembroke, and Montgomery, Arundel and Surry, Salisbury, Carlisle, Dorset, Holland, Berkshire, and Suffolk, with command to assem∣ble four times in a year, to consult and handle the Affairs of the Order.

All these, but the Earls of Molgrave and Dorset, met at Whitehall, the 2. of Ia∣nuary following, where some b 2.8 few things were considered of.

This Commission was seconded by one more ample, about three Months after, and directed to the before-named Knights-Companions, or to any 8, 7, 6, 5, or 4 of them, thereby impowring them, d 2.9 to meet, consult, and take an exact view, and to peruse all the Statutes and Ordinances of the Order; as well such as were esta∣blished in the beginning, as such as had been since made by Explanation or Addition,

and to consider advisedly, whether any thing had been Ordered, that had brought Doubt or Ambiguity, or did stand in need of Alteration or Amendment. To the end, that if upon mature deliberation by them, there should appear any contrariety or other defect, by want of plain expression or other omission, which were fit by the Sove∣raign to be supplied for the augmentation of the Honor of the Order, that then in such case, He [the Soveraign] might (upon return of their Proceedings) resolve of some general Declaration in Chapter, to reform and reduce into one body all the Statutes and Ordinances thereof, that the same being compiled and setled in a per∣fe••t form, might be so delivered over to posterity, cleered and freed from all future questions and doubts.

We see here the largeness of this noble design: Nevertheless not any thing was done upon this Commission, though it stood in force even from the 6. to the 13. year of this Soveraign's Reign: but where the neglect lay appears not, though it may not untruly be conjectured by that which follows.

At the Feast of St. George, celebrated by Prorogation at Whitehall, for the year e 2.10 1636. upon the 17, 18, and 19. days of April, anno 1637. divers humble Petitions for f 2.11 Reformation and Renovation, were presented to the Soveraign, the said 18. day of April, by the Chancellor, and them also read; some of which more especially tending to the honor of the Order were accepted and decreed by the Soveraign, and the rest referred and transmitted to the Knights-Commissioners be∣fore mentioned.

The first of those Decrees which at this time past, was g 2.12 to revive and renew the powers given in the former Commission, and thereupon a new Commission, dated the 7. of May then following, issued under the Great Seal of the Order, having the same Preamble with the former Commission, and was directed to the Earls of Molgrave, Derby, Pembroke, and Montgomery, Arundel, and Surrey, Kelley, Salis∣bury, Dorset, Holland, Berkshire, Suffolk, Lindsey, Exceter, Marquess Hamilton, Duke of Lenox, the Earls of Danby, Moreton, and Northumberland, or to three or more of them, to h 2.13 meet and consult of any matter, concerning the Statutes, or Honor of the Order. These Knights-Commissioners, were likewise armed with i 2.14 all the powers given in the foresaid Commission, dated anno 6. Car. 1. Unto which was added, for the better effecting the Soveraign's royal care; k 2.15 That three or more of them should meet at the Soveraign's Court, and begin to execute the said Commission, in Whitson-week next ensuing, attended and assisted by the Chan∣cellor of the Order, and all or any other Officers, or such of them as they should call and find serviceable. And being met and assembled, to have power to hear, pro∣pound, and debate whatsoever should be presented, or that they should conceive con∣ducible, to the honor and perfect establishment of the Order. And to prepare all mat∣ters of such their consultation to be presented unto the Soveraign, at the next Feast of St. George, and so successively at every Chapter to be held by the Soveraign: there∣in to receive his full determination, approbation, and royal assent: with further power to adjourn from time to time, after the first opening and reading of the said Commission, their meetings to such places and days, as to them should seem most convenient.

Now who would think, that, after so noble a designation of the Soveraign, af∣ter his care to send forth a second Commission with augmentative powers, after his earnest l 2.16 recommending this Affair to their diligence, his pressing their di∣spatch for the speedy accomplishment of his Royal Intentions, and lastly, his ex∣pecting from them an account of their Transactions, at or before the celebration of the next Feast, these honorable persons who were Companions of so noble and honorable an Order, and at their admission sworn to advance the honor of the same, no less than to defend and maintain it, should need a Spur to so worthy a design? But it was so!—

For although the foresaid Commission was opened and read at the Court at Whitehall, the 30. of May following, in the presence and session of the Earls of Pembroke, and Montgomery, Salisbury, Holland, Marquess Hamilton, and Duke of Lenox, Commissioners and Companions of this most Noble Order; yet I find the then Chancellor Sir Thomas Rowe, in an account of that day's proceedings by Letter,

dated the fourth of Iune 1637. and directed to Dr. Christopher Wren, then Regi∣ter of the Order (whose attendance was on that day excused) sadly profess; That it was as much as he could do, to procure and draw together five of the Knights-Companions, to open and read the Commission, and this also in haste, quasi in tran∣situ; and all that was done, was to appoint another meeting at the Court in Mid∣sommer-week, then next ensuing; and to lay a charge upon the Chancellor to pre∣pare matter (to wit, m 2.17 Propositions and Observations upon the Statutes) fit for their Consultation, against that time, according to the tenour of the Commission. And elsewhere he makes this ingenuous acknowledgment, That he found such dif∣ficulty to procure meetings, and a certain non-chalance in every one, as if it were but a ceremonious Affair, and so few hearty in it, that he feared, he and the Officers should wait to little purpose.

And so indeed it fell out, for albeit he attended the said Knights-Commissioners in Midsomer-week, according to the appointment at their last sitting; yet there was nothing done, save only the adjourning of their meeting to n 2.18 London.

Some little (and but little) progress was afterwards made in this Affair, at another meeting at White-hall, the o 2.19 8. of February following; where three of the said Knights-Commissioners were present, namely, the Earls of Berkshire, Lindsey, and Northumberland; who Ordered, p 2.20 That the Chancellor, Register, and Garter, should prepare an abreviation of the Statutes, and reduce every thing of one-head, in∣to an act, to avoid confusion: And this being the half of what they then did, caused this Expression to fall from the Pen of this worthy Chancellor, in another Letter to the Register, of the 24. of Nov. 1637. There is little hopes of the Knights; they never meet, or to no purpose; though I am tired with solicitations.

Finally, the q 2.21 first of February after, another assembly of seven of the Knights-Com∣missioners was held also at Whitehall, in whose presence a few things were debated, but little concluded: and further than this sitting, can I not trace the prosecution of this noble design and intendment of the late Royal Soveraign, all the following years of his Reign; but that here it slept in silence and neglect.

SECT. IV. Of the Annals of the Order.

AND because the several Orders and Decrees occasionally made in Chapters (being of good authority and binding to the Knights-Companion•• and Offi∣cers) with many other Historical and Ceremonial matters, relating to the Order, lye disperst throughout the Annals thereof; it will be requisite here, to give some account of those Books wherein they are so recorded, because we shall make frequent use of them in the progress of our Discourse.

* 2.22The first of these in order of time, is an old Paper Book, written in French (hitherto fortunately preserved in the Paper-Office at Whitehall) which in all pro∣bability was begun by Iohn Coringham: for we find him 1414. (which was a lit∣tle before the Annals therein entred do commence) made e 2.23 Canon of Windesor, and constituted f 2.24 Register of the Order. And in regard that one and the same kind of hand-writing is continued from the beginning of this Book, until anno 16. H. 6. inclusive, where follows an Hiatus till anno 23. H. 6. that the Annals begin to be entred with another hand, and that he shortly after died, viz. g 2.25 anno Dom. 1445. 'tis very probable, the Book so far was writ by himself.

Hence forward these Annals are entred with several hands, and those gene∣rally in use about the times, wherein the Transactions passed, whence may well enough be presumed, that these were the proper hand-writings of each Register of the Order, and that this Book was transmitted from one Register to another, wherein, after their death or other removal, the Annals and Acts were continued

by the hand of the next Successor; and from this conjecture may some light be also given of the time how long each Register or Scribe enjoyed his Office.

After Richard Sidnor was made Register, to wit, h 2.26 anno 16. H. 8. (who sub∣scribed his name to the foot almost of each leaf) the Annals were written in one hand, until anno 26. H. 8. that i 2.27 Robert Aldrydge Doctor of Divinity, and one of the Canons of Windesor k 2.28 succeeded him in that Office, and then 'tis evi∣dent the hand-writing also was changed, to an old set Roman, which ran on to the end of 29. H. 8. in which year he was advanced to the Bishoprick of l 2.29 Carlisle, and this Book ends in the 31. of his Reign.

Besides this, there is another Book wherein the Annals of the Order are recorded in Latin, concerning which there past a Decree, anno 3. H. 7. m 2.30 That it should be fairly transcribed, and n 2.31 afterwards, That the Soveraign should be put in mind of it, as being then needful to be renewed; but neither of these Decrees took effect, nor was this done till towards the end of the Reign of King Henry the Eight.

This Book agrees very neerly with the Registrum Chartaceum, for therein is nothing entred relating to the Order (except o 2.32 one of the Exemplars of the Foun∣der's Statutes, and a n 2.33 Catalogue of the first 25 Knights-Companions) before the fourth year of King Henry the Fifth; the Annals of the Order until then being wholly lost. It hath the same Hiatus or Intervals, viz. from the 16. to the 23. year of King Henry the Sixth, from the 7. to the 10. of Edward the Fourth, from the 4. to the 7. of Henry the Seventh, and from the 10. to the 14. of the same King; it also runs parallel therewith for the most part, yet where there is any thing more recorded in the Registrum Chartaceum than in the Black Book, we shall note it, as we have a fitting occasion offered.

And that it was compiled by Dr. Aldrydge, while he was Register, may be col∣lected from a short Account given in the o 2.34 Preface, of all the Soveraigns of the Or∣der, ending with King Henry the Eighth; with a memorial relating to Cardinal Wolsey, who, as it there appears, was then dead.

The Transcription of this Book was finished anno 31. H. 8. for so far it is writ∣ten (as ••••so the Appendix) with one and the same hand (being a middle sized Text Letter) but anno 32. H. 8. 'tis most apparent, another hand is introduced, which with some variation is afterwards carried on to the end of anno 5. E. 6. where this Book ends.

The Register of the Order, by the Constitutions of his Office, was obliged to prouide p 2.35 two Books, and therein to enter the Ordinances and Statutes, with other Acts of the Order, whereof one was appointed to be kept in the Chapter-house at Windesor, and called Index Windesoriens••s; and the other (being a duplicate of the former) to remain in the Register's keeping, ready at hand to shew the Sove∣raign whensoever he should require it; and this latter was called Aulae Regisirum.

As to the general directions given for compiling these Books, and of what particulars they are principally to consist, we have some information from the Statutes of the Order, and the foresaid Constitutions; for besides the entry this Officer is enjoined to make of all the Scrutenys taken in Chapter, and Elections thereupon made (which we shall at large discourse of in its q 2.36 due place) his duty is to record the r 2.37 Penalties inflicted on Knights-Companions, and the reason thereof, the s 2.38 reconciliatin of those that have suffered penalties as Delinquent, with other Acts and their causes, appertaining to the Order: All which are Decreed to be t 2.39 recited before the Soveraign and Knights-Companions, at the beginning of the Chapter, yearly on the Eve of St. George; to the end they may be corrected, and reduced into Method, if need require.

Moreover, he is, by the foresaid Constitutions, to make entry of all the u 2.40 Policies in War, Exploits, Transactions, and memorable Atchievements, both of the Sove∣raign and Knights-Companions, according as he can best attain the knowledge of them, either by his own search, or the assistance of Mr. Garter, which having first set down and committed to writting, as passages and accidents happen from year to year, whatsoever is thus noted by him, is to be red and perused at the next Chap∣ter, by the Knights-Companions there assembled, that if any thing be found to stand in need of Correction, it may there be forthwith amended, and again in like manner at

another Chapter afterwards; which done, he is to take care, that they be fairly in∣grossed in the foresaid Book, for a perpetual memorial.

And because the time assigned for rehearsal of these particulars in Chapter, had in succeeding years been taken up with other Affairs; in one of those Arti∣cles, which the Knights-Companions (to whom King Iames recommended the framing of some Articles, necessary for the honor of the Order) presented to the Soveraign the 19. of May, anno Iac. Regis 20. and confirmed the 22. of May following, it was Decreed, w 2.41 That nothing of this nature, or any other Act in Chap∣ter should be Registered, before it had been perused and considered by the then Knights-Commissioners, or at least sour of them, who when they should set times apart, to consult of the Affairs of the Order, for which they were chiefly con∣stituted, might then also make use of such opportunities, as should give this bu∣siness dispatch with more conveniency.

Upon due consideration had of these Injunctions, the present Register (at a Chapter held the 19. of November, anno 22. Car. 2.) x 2.42 exhibited the continuation of the Annals of this Noble Order, which he had prepared to register in the Li∣ber Carolinus, and humbly submitted it to the perusal and approbation of the Knights-Companions whom the Soveraign had deputed to take into their conside∣ration the Affairs of the Order; which tender when they declined, he proposed that it might be examined by the Prelate, but that not being liked by them (on consideration that the Register was obliged under an Oath, to deal faithfully in his Report) it was Decreed, y 2.43 That the said Annals should be recorded in the said Book without any further examination.

Besides the above-mentioned particulars, there were materials of another na∣ture, ordered to be collected, both from the Chancellor of the Order, and Garter Principal King of Arms, to be digested by the Register, and entred also upon Re∣cord; for, whereas one part of the Chancellor's duty was to z 2.44 set forth and declare every year in Chapter, at the Feast of St. George, the renowned and praiseworthy Acts of the Knights of this Order, as many as had so merited, and as for those who had deserved the contrary, to make relation also of their scandalous and dis∣graceful actions; the Register was to take these in writing, and record them for a memorial of their honor or shame, never to end.

And it is part of the duty of Mr. Garter, a 2.45 diligently and industriously to make enquiry after the valiant, fortunate, and renowned Acts, both of the Soveraign, and the rest of the Knights-Companions, which having learnt, he is to make a true and faithful relation of them to the Register, to be by him entred upon Record for a per∣petual memorial.

But we find very little of this hitherto done, and how sparingly inserted, the Annals themselves are but too evident Witnesses. Nevertheless, the present Garter, Sir. Ed. Walker, hath drawn up a faithful account of the noble Actions and Characters of the Knights-Companions, beginning with Thomas Earl of Straf∣ford, and continuing it down to his Son; which he delivered to Dr. Ryves, the now Register, for the use afore directed.

Among the Articles established at the Feast of St. George, anno Iac. Regis 21. the last is, b 2.46 That the then Register of the Order should compose a Book, wherein should be orderly transcribed the form and manner of all the Solemnities, Ceremo∣nies, and Processions, which were accustomably used at the Feast of St. George, and celebration of the Order, as also of taking down and offering the defunct Knights Atchievements, to the end the Knights-Companions, upon recourse to it, might have full information thereof. But (after much enquiry) we have not heard that such a Book was drawn up by him, or any of his Successors.

And that some course should be taken for the safe custody and preservation of the Annals of the Order, such was the worthy care of the foresaid Knights-Commissioner, that the said 22. of May, anno Iac. Regis 20. it was Ordained, c 2.47 That a secure and certain place within the Castle of Windesor, should be provided and appointed, in which all Acts concerning the Order, should be kept, and to which every Knight-Companion at all times might have access. And further, d 2.48 That up∣on the remove, or after the death of the Register of the Order, the Book containing

an account of all such acts as had been Registered and there reserved, should be deli∣vered to one of the Knights of the Order.

The second of these Books (is called the Blue Book,* 2.49 and so called from the co∣lour of the Cover, being fairly bound in Blue Velvet. It begins with the first year of Queen Mary, and ends at the 18. year of King Iames.

The third,* 2.50 being bound up in Red Velvet, goes therefore under the name of the Red Book; it takes commencement where the Blue Book ends, and contains like Acts and Entries with the former, it ends in the 14. year of King Charles the First of ever blessed memory, having first given a full account of the Ceremo∣nies performed at the Installation of the present Soveraign.

And as to a great part of this Book may I justly and without flattery say, (and to the honor of that right Reverend Prelate, Doctor Wren the late Lord Bishop of Ely, let it be remembred) that from the Institution of this most Noble Order, until he was chosen into the Office of Register, the Annals of the Order, were at no time recorded by a Pen neer so judicious or eligant; whose excellent Patern his wor∣thy Brother, and Successor into that Office, Doctor Christopher Wren, (who most freely and readily communicated to me, what materials he had, to encou∣rage my first design and entrance upon this Work) hath exactly copied in its fol∣lowing leaves.

The fourth and last Book commenceth,* 2.51 anno 1640. wherein the Annals are continued down to the beginning of the year 1670. according to the English Ac∣count, by the learned pains of Dr. Brune Ryves the present Register of the Order. And in a Chapter held at Windesor the 16. of April, anno 13. Car. 2. it was Decreed, e 2.52 That there should be two of these Books made, the one penn'd in Latin to re∣main with the Register at Windesor, and the other in English to be kept at Whitehall, and called Registrum Aulicum.

THE Account drawn up of the Founder and first Knights-Compa∣nions of this Noble Order, we designed for the next Chapter, but for some considerable reasons cannot bring it in here; nevertheless we intend it to usher in the Catalogue of their Successors, and join them together in the last Chapter, where our Reader, is hence he cast his eye thi∣ther, may read it in due Order.

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Of what materials this principal Ensig•• was at first made, we have not yet found, nor is it described by any, before P••lydore ••irgile, and he, but in general, as to the ornamental part of it, to wit, That it was c 2.53 adorned with Gold and precious Stones, and had a Buckle of Gold at the end, wherewith to fasten it about the Leg. But doubtless, it was also wrought with rich Embro••dery, and thereon the Symbolical word or Motto was raised with Gold, Pearl, and sundry sorts of Silks; as may be guessed from the Garters anciently placed on the left shoulder of the Knights-Companions Mantles, and these other little embroider∣ed Garters, wherewith their Surcoats and Hoods were heretofore adorn••d, which we shall describe by and by.

But touching those made in the last Age, we have received more particular sa∣tisfaction: for we find, that the Garter sent to Em••nuel Duke of Savoy, ann. 1 & 2. Phil. & Mar. was set with d 2.54 Letters of Goldsmiths Work▪ the Buckle and Pen∣dant of the same, and on the Pendant, a Ruby and a Pearl hanging at the end. The Garter made for Francis the Second, anno 6. Eli••. was e 2.55 richly wrought with Letters of Gold, garnished with Stones: the Buckle and Pendant weighing f 2.56 three Ounces and a half and half quarter, was richly set with Rubies and Diamonds. The French King Henry the Fourth, had a Garter of g 2.57 Purple Velvet, embroi∣dered with Letters of Gold, garnished with Diamonds and Rubies; and the Gar∣ter of Christier•• the Fourth King of Denmark, was h 2.58 embroidered with Gold and Pearls.

But that Garter sent to Gust••vus Adolphus King of Sweden, did excel all others, bestowed by former Soveraigns, for richness and glory: each Letter of the Motto being composed of Diamonds. A particular Inventory whereof (taken the 24. day of May, anno 14. Car. 1. when delivered by the Soveraign's Command, to the custody of the Dean and Chapter of Windesor, to be preserved there in memory of that famous King) we here exhibit; it being the transcript of that Counterpart, signed by Doctor Christopher Wren, then Dean of Windesor, and seven Canons of that Colledge, upon the receipt thereof.

Vnder the Letters of the Garter Small Diamonds on [the lower] side

52

Item, on the upper side of the Garter of Small Diamonds

52

In the Letter H Diamonds small

10

In the Letter O Diamonds small

12

12

In the Letter N Diamonds small

11

In the Letter I Diamonds small

4

The first stop Diamond

1

In the Letter S Diamonds small

11

In the Letter O Diamonds small

12

12

In the Letter I

4

4

In the Letter T Diamonds

10

The Stop,

1

1

1

1

In the Letter Q Diamonds

13

In the Letter V

9

In the Letter I

4

4

The Stop,

1

1

1

1

207

85

In the Letter M Diamonds small

11

In the Letter A Diamonds small

10

In the Letter L Diamonds small

6

The Stop,

1

1

1

1

The Letter Y Diamonds

6

The Stop,

1

1

1

1

The Letter P

10

The Letter E

9

9

The Letter N

11

The Letter S

11

The Letter E

9

9

207

85

207

85

In the first Button, Diamonds

6

In the second

6

In the third

6

In the fourth

6

In the Star of longer Diamonds

7

Small Diamonds.

31

In the Chapes border, Diamonds of a bigger size

32

In the Cross, four faucet long Diamonds, and four three square faucet Diamonds

8

One large Diamond long and fauce•• encompassed with seven square Diamonds and faucet

8

In the Buckle, one faucet table Diamond in the end, and twenty seven in the compass and tongue

28

In the Hinge of the Buckle, one soul square Diamond, and eleven other faucet and square Diamonds

12

88

Total of the Number

411

* 2.59This rich Garter, being (for greater security) buried in St. George's Chappel, at the beginning of the late War, was discovered by Cornelius Holland, and fetch'd thence by Iohn Hunt Treasurer to the Trustees for sale of the late Kings Goods, and sold by them to Thomas Beauchamp their then Clerk.

The Garter which his said late Majesty wore upon his Leg at the time of his Martyrdom, had the Letters of the Motto composed likewise of Diamonds, which took up the number of 412. It came into the hands of i 2.60 Captain Preston (one of the late Usurper's Captains of Horse) from whom the said k 2.61 Trustees re∣received it, and sold to Mr. Iohn Ireton, sometimes Lord Mayor of London for 205 l. But since the happy Restauration of the present Soveraign, Mr. Ire∣ton was summoned before the Commissioners, impowered by a Commission un∣der the Great Seal of England, to enquire after the Crowns, Plate, Iewels, &c. of the said late Soveraign, which had been concealed or imbezeled, and being charged with the buying the foresaid Royal Garter, and not denying it, Com∣position was offered him, according to the direction of the Commission (as in all other like cases, where any thing could not be had in kind) but he refusing the offer, the Kings Attorney General proceeded against him in an Action of Trover and Conversion, in the Court of Kings-Bench, which coming to trial in Trinity Term, 〈…〉〈…〉 upon a full hearing, a Verdict was given for the King, against the said Iohn Ireton for 205 l. and 10 l. Costs of Suits.

The Motto of the now Soveraign's Royal Garter, is set with Diamonds upon Blue Velvet, and the borders wrought with fine Gold Wire; the Diamonds which frame the Letters of the Motto are Rose Diamonds, much of a bigness, but those which make the Stops, table Diamonds; and the number which set each Letter are as followeth.

In the Letter H small rose Diamonds

10

In the Letter O

12

11

In the Letter N

11

In the Letter I

4

4

4

The first stop Diamond

1

In the Letter S

9

In the Letter O

12

11

In the Letter I

4

4

4

In the Letter T

8

The Stop,

1

1

In the Letter Q

12

In the Letter V

9

In the Letter I

4

4

4

The Stop,

1

1

In the Letter M

13

In the Letter A

10

In the Letter L

6

The Stop,

1

1

In the Letter Y

8

The Stop,

1

1

In the Letter P

9

In the Letter E

9

9

In the Letter N

12

In the Letter S

8

In the Letter E

9

9

In each of the four Ilot holes six little Diamonds

24

In the Buckle, two very large Diamonds, four somewhat lese, three less than they, and four small Diamonds

13

In the Tab, three very large Diamonds, six a little lesser, one somewhat less, four smaller Diamonds, two less than they, and fourteen small Diamonds

30

Total

250

The Hinge of the Buckle is pure Gold, and thereon the Soveraign's Picture to the breast, curiously cut in flat-stich, crowned with a Laurel, and vested in the Military Habit worn by the first Roman Emperors. The Tab or Pendant is also Gold, and on the back side thereof engraved a Saint George on Horse∣back, encountring the Dragon. The order of placing the Diamonds on the Buckle, Tab, and about the Ilot holes, may be seen in the Draught which (with the rest of the Noble Ornaments, that make up the whole Habit and En∣signs of the Order, exactly taken from the particulars themselves) is placed at the beginning of this Chapter.

This Noble Ensign [the Garter] was at the Foundation of the Order, appointed to be worn on the l 2.62 left Leg, a m 2.63 little beneath the Knee, and so hath the usage in all time since continued. And its apparent, that the manner of placing this Gar∣ter on the left Leg of the Knights-Companions Sepulchral Portraictures, was very early brought into use; seeing in that Alablaster Figure, of Sir William Fitz Wa∣ren (who died a Knight-Companion of this Noble Order, in the n 2.64 five and thir∣tieth year of the Founder's Reign) lying with his Lady on a raised Monument, in the North side of the Chancel of Wantage Church in Berkshire (and yet to be seen) with his Surcote of Arms upon the breast) the resemblance of his Garter (but without any Motto) is carved upon its left Leg. In like manner is the Garter o 2.65 re∣presented on the left Leg of the Alablaster Portraicture of Sir Richard Pembridge, elected Knight of this most Noble Order, in the Founder's Reign, and in the room of Sir Thomas Vfford: whose Monument is erected in the p 2.66 South side of the Ca∣thedral Church of Hereford, below the Pulpit, and encompassed with a Rail of Iron Spikes.

The next Monument in time, whereon we have seen the Garter so represented, is that made for Sir Simon Burley (q 2.67 beheaded anno 1388.) and raised in the North wall siding the Quire of St. Paul's Cathedral London, almost over against the Mo∣nument of Iohn a Graunt Duke of Lancaster. Thence forward the usage be∣came more frequent (and then the Motto began likewise to be cut thereon) inso∣much as even until these days, the Garter is to be seen thus represented, upon all the Monumental Portraictures of those, who were since Companions of this most Noble Order.

And albeit this Princely Ensign of the Order, was at first designed for an Orna∣ment to the left Legs of the Soveraign and Knights-Companions; yet was not its use confined only thereto, but extended to some other particulars: For, in the next place it was (and that ancienly also) made use of to incircle the Scutcheon of St. George's Arms, worn by the Soveraign and Knights-Companions on the left shoulder of their Mantles; who within a short time after took it to surround each of their proper Coats of Arms: which usage, their Successors in this most Noble

Order have retained, as a peculiar priviledge, but not permitted to any other, except the Prelate of the Garter their principal Officer.

The first Example which hath occurr'd to our view, is the before mentioned Monument of Sir Simon Burley; where on the front towards the head is a Scut∣cheon of his Arms, impaled with his first Wives, set within a Garter (wanting the Impress) but another having the same impalment (placed below the Feet) is surrounded with a Collar of SS, of the fashion with that about his neck.

The Monument also of Ioane Wife to Ralph Nevill Earl of Westmerland, Daugh∣ter to Iohn a Gaunt Duke of Lancaster (who died on the Feast-day of St. Brice, anno 1410.) raised on the South side of the Quire in the Cathedral Church of Lincolne, hath the Arms of Nevill, impaled with those belonging to the said Ioane, incircled with a Garter: And by these two (among other Examples) it appears to have been the usage about those times, to surround Scutcheons of Arms, and other Devices, with a Collar of SS also: for so, on this great Ladies Mo∣nument, is there such a Collar, fashioned like that of Sir Simon Burley's placed about a square, whereon, what was painted doth not now appear.

Another ancient instance is that Scutcheon, viz. r 2.68 Sable, three Ostrich Feathers Argent, surrounded with the Garter, set up in the Glass Windows of Greenwich Church in Kent, by Humfry Duke of Gloucester, and supported with a Grey∣hound and an Antilope. It is said, that these three Feathers were the Badge of King Henry the Fourth, which he had from Iohn a Gaunt Duke of Lancaster his Father, who bore them for his Device (as might be seen not long since in the North Window, against his before mentioned Monument, in St. Paul's London) and placed in a Field Sable as here, but the Pens were powdred with Ermyns, for a difference from the Black Prince's Feather. The King likewise, so also the House of Somerset, gave the White Ostrich Feather for a Device; but all the difference lay in the Pen, for the Kings Pen was Or, the Princes Argent, the Duke of Lancasters Ermyn, and the Duke of Somersets Compony, Argent, and Azure.

The Arms of Sir Lewis Robsort Lord Bourchier, one of the Knights of this Order, Elected in the Reign of King Henry the Fifth, are to be seen painted within a Garter, on each side his Monument, in St. Paul's Chappel in Westminster Abbey. Afterwards we find at the Interment of Richard Duke of York, Father to King Edward the Fourth (slain at the Battel of Wakefield) that every corner of the Majesty Scutcheon (set over the Image of the defunct) had s 2.69 a Scutcheon of the Arms of France and England quarterly, and four Angels Gold, holding the Arms within a Garter.

In like manner, some of the Scutheons prepared for the Funeral of Iohn Vis∣count Wells (who married Cicely, third Daughter to King Edward the Fourth and died the t 2.70 9. of February anno 14. H. 7.) were u 2.71 surrounded with the Garter; and so were others having his w 2.72 Ladies Arms, of both Metal and Colour. At the Interment of Thomas Duke of Norfolk in Thetford Abbey (who dyed anno x 2.73 16. H. 8.) there was provided a Shield of his Arms y 2.74 within a Garter, and a Co∣ronet set over it. A Target also of the Arms of George Earl of Shrewsbury z 2.75 with∣in a Garter was born at his Funeral, anno 33. H. 8.

It was the custom (begun with us about the Reign of King Henry the Seventh) when the Obsequies of any Forreign Prince were celebrated here in England, to paint the Scutcheon of such Princes Arms within the Collar of that Order, whereof he was Soveraign, or a Fellow-Companion; for instance,

At the Obsequies of the French King Charles the Eighth, celebrated in the Ca∣thedral of St. Paul's London, the Scutcheons of the Arms of France, were placed a 2.76 within the Collar of the Order of Saint Michael, of which he was Soveraign. At each end of the Hearse, b 2.77 when the Obsequies of Iohn King of Portugal, were kept in St. Paul's Cathedral, there was among others, one great Scutcheon of his Arms, c 2.78 within the Collar of the Golden Fleece, wrought with Metal upon Wax, in regard he was one of the Knights of that Order. The Obsequies of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, being performed in Westminster Abbey the 22. and 23. days of December anno 1558. there were ten great Scutcheons, d 2.79 compassed with Garters; to shew he was a Fellow, and Knight-Companon of this Order.

And upon the same account, where any Forreign Princes, were not only Sove∣raigns of one Order, but Companions of another; their Herses were garnished with Scutcheons of their proper Arms, surrounded with the Collars, or principal Badges of both those Orders. Hereupon we find, at the Obsequies of Francis the First, the French King, celebrated the 19. of Iune in St. Paul's Lon∣d••n, anno 1. E. 6. the Herse was adorned with the Scutcheons of the Arms of France, placed both e 2.80 within the Garter of St. George, and Collar of St. Michael's Order; in regard he had been a Fellow of the one, and Soveraign of the other.

At the Obsequies performed for Henry the Second of France, on the 9. of Sep∣tember, anno 1. Eliz. in St. Paul's also, there were some Scutcheons of his Arms, incircled both with the f 2.81 Garter and Collar of the g 2.82 Golden Fleece, he having been a Knight-Companion of both these Orders; under the Joysts was a Majesty Scutcheon of Black Taffaty, of this Kings Arms within a Garter, crowned with an Imperial Grown: This Scutcheon was garnished in eight places, with eight Rundles, and therein his Impress Donec totum impleat Orbem, with three Cre∣scents, and two D's of the Roman Letter, linked back to back; and in several other places of the Herse, were fastned other Scutcheons of his Arms within this principal Ensign of the Garter.

King Henry the Eighth was first of the Soveraigns of this most Noble Order, who introduced into his Great Seal, the Scutcheon of his Arms, incircled within a Garter; as may be h 2.83 seen placed on either side of his Portraicture, sitting in his Royal Throne. Since his Reign, all succeeding Soveraigns have born their Arms within the Garter, not only in their Great and Privy Seals, but also in those other belonging to their Courts of Justice; and generally in all things (except Coyns) whereon the Scutcheon of their Arms have been since cut, carved, graved, paint∣ed, or wrought (in imitation of whom the Knights-Companions have done the like) But there were an. 21. Car. 1. certain half Crowns stamped in the West of England, having the Soveraign's Arms so encompassed, and this was the first Money, whereon the Royal Garter appeared amongst us.

[illustration]

And the present Soveraign, intending the augmentation of the Honor of this renowned Order, as in many other things, so in advancing the reputation of this Noble Ensign by a more publick way; hath caused the irradiated Cross of St. George, encompassed about with the Royal Garter, to be stamped in the Center of his Silver Coyn made upon the alteration of it, anno 14. Car. 2.

There were likewise Medals, heretofore stamped upon several occasions, wherein the Garter was designedly added, some of which are here exhibited; As that in the year when Frederick Prince Palatine of the Rhyne, was crowned King of Bohemia, and Robert Cecil Earl of Salisbury, made Lord Treasurer of England, both Knights-Companions of this most Noble Order.

[illustration]

We have seen Gold Rings cast into the Figure of Garters, the ground on the outside enamelled with a deep Blue, through which the golden Letters of the Motto appearing, set them off with an admirable beauty. And it seems such Gar∣ter Rings have been of ancient use, since the Preface to the Black Book of the Or∣der, taking notice of wearing the Garter on the left Leg and Shoulder, adds al∣so the i 2.84 Thumb; by which we suppose is meant Gold Rings, made into the fashion of Garters, and bestowed by some new installed Knights upon their Relations and Friends, to wear in memorial of so great an honor conferred upon them.

Among the Officers belonging to the Order, the Prelate is allowed to bear his proper Arms, (impal'd with those of his See) within the Garter: and the rest of the Officers are permitted only to wear the Badges of their Office, surrounded with the same, to express their peculiar relation to this most Noble Order.

Besides the manner of bearing Arms within the Garter of this Order, the Garter, either in whole or part, hath been given by way of Armory, (but without the Motto) and in sundry manners of bearing. As in the Seal of Arms, belonging to the Office of Garter, Principal King of Arms; where the Garter (surrounding a Crown) is placed in Chief, between one of the Lions of England, and a Flower de Lis of France. And to instance in Families; we find, k 2.85 Argent, three demy Garters Azure, buckled and garnished Or, granted by King Henry the Seventh, to his Servant Peter Nerborne: and l 2.86 Sable a Garter Or, between three Buckles of the second, to be born by the name of Buckland or Bowland in the County of Northampton.

[illustration]

SECT. II. Of the Mantle.

IN the Founder's Statutes, mention is made of no other Robe among those ap∣pointed for the Habit of this most Noble Order, but only an upper Garment, to which is there given the name of Mantle; and is the chief of those Vestments, which the Soveraign and Knights-Companions wear upon all solemn occasions re∣lat••ng to the Order.

That this kind of Mantle was transferred and derived to us from the ancient Greeks and Romans, is not to be doubted; since it so little differs in fashion from their Pallium or Toga. For the m 2.87 Grecian Pallium, was a kind of long Cloak, which only wanted a Coller or Cape: and the n 2.88 Roman Toga, a Garment as common in fashion with, and proper to them, as the Pallium to the Grecians; and the use so ancient, as Romulus is noted by o 2.89 Plutarch to have worn it.

We find the Pallium further described to be p 2.90 a kind of upper Robe, that cover∣ed the whole Body, made fast on the right shoulder with a Fibula, or Clasp: It was usually worn over the Tunica, or short Coat, whence grew the Proverb, Tunica Pallio propinquior est; and is more particularly observed by q 2.91 Erhard. Cellius from

the authority of Livie, Suetonius, Tacitus, and other Latin Authors to have been a Garment, made without Sleeves, that reached down to the Ancles.

In describing this upper Robe called the Mantle, (the Soveraign's being dif∣ferenced from the Knights-Companions, only by a long Train) we shall first set down the various Names given it in the Records of the Order, secondly the Ma∣terials whereof made, thirdly the Colour, fourthly the Quantity, and last of all the Ornamental Trimming used about it. Wherein, though some things hereaf∣ter inserted, may perhaps to some seem light and trivial, and fitter to fill up a a Taylors Bill, than have place in a serious Discourse; yet well knowing they will be thought to others worthy remembrance, and as much esteemed, as ne∣cessary to be known; we thought good, not to omit the least particular, that might contribute to the satisfaction of any enquiry.

In the Founder's Statutes it is called r 2.92 Mantellum,* 2.93 and in Henry the Fifth's Man∣te••••, both which in English we render a Mantle. But the Exemplar of the Foun∣der's Statutes entred in the Black Book, and the Statutes of Henry the Eighth call it Trabea, which s 2.94 Rosinus also reckons among the different kinds of Man∣tles or Gowns. And in the 20. Article of King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, it is applied both to the Mantle and Surcoat. Sometime it is called t 2.95 Chlamyda, sometime u 2.96 Stola, but in other places (and more agreable to the Greek and Latin denomination) w 2.97 Pallium, and x 2.98 Toga.

In the second place,* 2.99 as to the Materials; That Mantle made for the Founder, against the first Feast of this Order, appears to have been of y 2.100 fine Wollen Cloth. And it is not unlikely, the Founder made choice of Cloth for the Robes of the Or∣der (rather than any richer material) to the end he might give a reputation to that our homebred and native Commodity: albeit we find in the Statutes of In∣stitution, a permission for the Proxies of Forreign Princes, to bring over with them Mantles of z 2.101 Silk or Velvet, when they came to receive the possession of their Principals Stalls; either because other Countries were better furnished with such Commodities, than our English Cloth, or that it might rather stand with the liking or esteem of Forreign Princes, as accounting Silk or Velvet the nobler material.

How long the Soveraigns of this most Noble Order continued wearing of Cloth, we cannot directly say, the first time we discover their Mantles to be made of a 2.102 Velvet, is about the beginning of the Reign of King Henry the Sixth; which sort of Silk hath thence continued in use until this day. About this time also we ob∣serve the Mantles of Forreign Princes, were likewise made here of Velvet; for so was b 2.103 that sent to the King of Portugal, elected c 2.104 anno 13. H. 6.

As touching the Mantles of the Knights-Companions, there is no question, but they were of the same materials, with those made for the Soveraign of the Order; namely, at first, of fine Wollen Cloth, and when the Soveraign changed Cloth to Velvet, they did so likewise: But we cannot meet with equal satisfaction in this particular, as we have done in the Mantles belonging to the Soveraign, because the Knights-Companions provided this Robe at their own charge, and their pri∣vate accounts, through many casualties were of no great durability; but their Surcoats were of the Soveraign's donation, and consequently the particulars of them remain on Record, in the Rolls and Accounts of the great Wardrobe.

The Colour of these Mantles is appointed by the Statutes to be d 2.105 Blue;* 2.106 and of this coloured Cloth, was the e 2.107 first Robe made for the Founder; by which, as by the ground-work of the Royal Garter it is not unlike, he alluded (in this no less than that) to the Colour of the Field in the French Arms; which a few years be∣fore he had assumed in Quarter, with those of his Kingdom of England: But the Colour of the Surcoat was changed every year as will appear by and by. Of the same g 2.108 Colour were the Velvet Mantles made in King Henry the Sixth's Reign, who though he changed the Stuff, yet did he not vary the dye.

It is also manifest, that the Blue Colour was retained to King Edward the Fourth's Reign, for when this Soveraign sent the Habit and Ensigns of the Order to Iulianus de Medicis, the Mantle was made of i 2.109 Blue Velvet.

But in King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, there is no mention at all of the Colour of this upper Robe, save only of the Mantle, which a Forreign Princes Proxy is enjoined to bring along with him, when he comes to assume the Stall of his Prin∣cipal, which though it be not directly to the point, yet is it there noted to be of k 2.110 Blue Velvet: and it is more than probable, that the Blue Colour continued still in use; for within a few years after the compiling this last mentioned Body of Sta∣tutes, it appears, the Mantle sent to Iames King of Scotland, was of l 2.111 Blue Velvet. And m 2.112 Polydore Virgile, who wrote his History about that time, affirms as much. Moreover in the ancient form of admonition and signification, appointed to be spoken at the Investiture of Forreign Princes, and then in use, it is called the Mantle of n 2.113 Celestial Colour.

If we pass from the Reign of King Henry the Eighth, to the first and second years of King Philip and Queen Mary, it will appear, the Mantle sent to Emanuel Duke of Savoy was likewise of o 2.114 Blue Velvet.

But in Queen Elizabeth's Reign (upon what ground is no where mentioned) the Colour of Forreign Princes Mantles, was changed from Blue to Purple: for of that Colour were the Mantles sent to the French Kings, p 2.115 Charles the Ninth, anno 6. Eliz. and q 2.116 Henry the Third, an. 27. of the same Queen: So also to the Emperor r 2.117 Maxi∣milian, an. 9. Eliz. to s 2.118 Frederick the Second King of Den∣mark, an. 24. Eliz. to t 2.119 Iohn Casimire, Count Palatine of the Rhyne, an. 21. Eliz. and to u 2.120 Christierne the Fourth King of Denmark, an. Iac. R. 4. but that sent to w 2.121 Frederick Duke of Wirtemberg in the same year, was of a mixt Colour, to wit, Purple with Violet.

Thus the Purple Colour came in, and continued till about the 12. year of King Charles the First, when that Soveraign (having determined to restore the Colour of the Mantle to the primitive Institution, namely a rich Celestial Blue) gave di∣rections to x 2.122 Mr. Peter Richant Merchant (afterwards Knighted by him) to furnish himself with a parcel of Velvets of that Colour from Genoa, and upon their ar∣rival into England commanded y 2.123 Sir Thomas Rowe, then Chancellor of the Order, forthwith to signifie by Letters to all the Knights-Companions his Soveraign Plea∣sure; that every one of them should take so much of that Velvet as would make new Robes, against the following St. George's day, and satisfie for them; in obe∣dience to this command the Chancellor within ten days gave notice thereof to the Knights-Companions.

Hereupon all the Knights furnished themselves with new Mantles at the rate of thirty seven shillings a yard, being the price the Soveraign paid to Mr. Richaut for the Velvet of his own Robes; and the first time these Mantles were worn, was to honor the Installation of the present Soveraign.

And because there were many Knights-Elect to be Installed, after the happy re∣turn of the present Soveraign, it was therefore Ordered, at a Chapter held at Whitehall, the 14. of Ianuary, an. 12. Car. 2. (called to consider what prepara∣tions were fit and necessary to be made, against the grand Feast of St. George then at hand) That directions should be given to the Master of the Wardrobe, to send abroad for special good Velvets, of Skie-colour and Crimson, and other materials of the proper Colours for the Mantles and Surcoats, both of the old Knights-Companions, and those that were then to be Installed; which was ac∣cordingly done, and they brought over in time to accommodate them at the said Feast.

* 2.124Albeit the just number of Ells of Cloth, which went to the making the Foun∣der's first Mantle, are not set down, yet in gross for his Mantle, Hood, and Sur∣coat, there was allowed a 2.125 10 Ells of long Cloth. The Mantle of King Henry the Sixth took up b 2.126 one Piece, 5 Ells and 3 quarters of Blue Velvet; and those sent to c 2.127 Frederick the Second, and d 2.128 Chri∣stiern the Fourth, Kings of Denmark, and to the French King e 2.129 Henry the Third, contained each 20 yards of Vel∣vet. This we find to be the allowance for the Mantles of

Forreign Princes, and are the more large by reason of their long Train, which being wanting in the Mantles of Knights Subjects, 18 yards served to make one of them. The full length of the present Soveraign's Mantle, from the Collar be∣hind to the end of the Train, is 3 yards; the length of the foreside 1 yard and 3 quarters; from the foot along the bottom to the setting on of the Train is 2 yards; and from thence, the length or compass of the Train is 2 yards.

The left shoulder of each of these Mantles have (from the Institution of the Order) been adorned with one large fair Garter, * 2.130 containing the Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense: These were distinguished from the lesser Garters, anciently embroidered upon the Surcoats and Hoods, of the Soveraign and Knights-Compa∣nions, by the name of f 2.131 Garters gross.

Within this Garter was embroidered the g 2.132 Arms of St. George, viz. Argent a Cross Gules; and was heretofore wrought upon h 2.133 Satin, with Gold, Silver, and Silk; but in succeeding times, more cost was bestowed upon this Ensign; the embroi∣dery being curiously wrought upon Velvet, with Damask, Gold, and sundry sorts of Purls, Plates, Venice Twists and Silks; and the Letters of the Motto and Borders of the Garter, composed of fair Oriental Pearl. The Garter fixt upon the Mantle of the present Soveraign, is encompassed with large Oriental Pearl, so also are the Letters of the Motto, and the Cross within the Garter (an exact Figure whereof is to be seen in the Plate set at the beginning of this Chap∣ter) the Diameter of this Garter is seven Inches, but the depth, from the upper part to the end of the Pendant, ten Inches.

In the Reign of King Henry the Sixth, it seems to have been the fashion to gar∣nish the Mantle with three or four Welts drawn down the sides, and round the bottom; for so have I found it exprest on the Monument of Iohn Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, set in the South Wall of the Chancel in the Church of Whit••hurch in Shropshire.

About this time also the Lining of this Robe, was i 2.134 White Damask, and af∣terwards k 2.135 White Satin; but of later times, it was lined with White l 2.136 Tassaty, which continues yet in fashion.

For further Ornament, the Mantle had fixed to its Collar, a pair of long strings, anciently woven of m 2.137 Blue Silk only; (called Cordans, Robe-strings, or Laces) but of later times n 2.138 twisted round, and made of Venice Gold, and Silk of the Colour of the Robe; at each end of which, hung a great o 2.139 Knob or But∣ton wrought over and raised with a rich Caul of Gold; and Tassels thereunto of like Silk and Gold.

Lastly, at the Collar was usually fixed, an p 2.140 Hook and eye of Gold; for the surer fastning it about the shoulders.

SECT. III. Of the Surcoat.

WE observed before, that the Mantle or upper Robe is only taken no∣tice of in the Founder's Statutes, but not the Surcoat or Kirtle; never∣theless this part of the Habit, is as ancient as the other, being made use of at the Institution of the Order: For such a Garment the Founder then made, together with his Mantle (as also a Hood) to wear at the first Feast of this most Noble Order.

And as the Mantle was derived from the Greeks and Romans, so was the q 2.141 Sur∣coat also; it being not much unlike the Tuni••k or upper Coat, now in fashion with us, and worn over the Vest. This Garment among the Romans was called Tunica, and worn, r 2.142 next under the Toga, but both s 2.143 narrower and shorter than it; it was girded close to the Body with a Girdle, and so girded, that the t 2.144 Hem of it reached

a little below the Knee, or to the middle of the Ham. u 2.145 It was the proper Mode of the Roman Citizens, and by its trimming were the three degrees among them known: For the w 2.146 Senators Tunicks, were embroider'd or purfel'd over with broad purple Studs, the Knights with narrow ones, and the Plebeians plain, and without any such embroidery.

In seting forth the Surcoat which was heretofore annually bestowed by the Soveraign on the Knights-Companions, and therefore called his x 2.147 Livery, we shall follow the method used in describing the Mantle, and say something of the Name, Materials, Colour, Quantity, and Garnishing.

As to the Name, * 2.148 we observe, this Garment hath had sundry denominations; that bestowed on it in the old Rolls of the great Wardrobe is y 2.149 Roba, a Robe; but more properly (as the Founder's first Surcoat is called) z 2.150 Tunica, which Name is also given it, in the Red Book of the Order. In English it is rendred Gown, Kirtle, a 2.151 Surcoat, b 2.152 Vndercoat, and Robe.

The first of these English Names, [Gown] is attributed to the Surcoats of the Soveraign and Forreign Princes, in the times of d 2.153 Henry the Sixth, e 2.154 Edward the Fourth, and f 2.155 Henry the Seventh; but since his Reign, and (till very lately) it hath been bestowed also on the Surcoats of Knights-Compa∣nions; and that of Kirtle sometimes given to those sent to Forreign Princes, as doth almost every where appear among the Books of Warrants, in the great Wardrobe; but the rest are terms made use of in our Age.

* 2.156As the first Mantles, so the first Surcoats were made of h 2.157 Woollen-Cloth: and though the Cloth of the Mantles, was in time changed to Velvet, yet were the Surcoats for some time after made of i 2.158 Cloth, at least till after the Office of Chan∣cellor of the Garter was erected by King Edward the Fourth, as appears by the k 2.159 Precedent of this Livery, in the Soveraign's great Wardrobe; where after the distribution of materials for this Garment, proportionable to each Degree of Nobility, the like follows for the Liveries, given to the Officers of the Order, among whom the Chancellor is there mentioned. But at length they also came to be made of Velvet, which sort of Silk is still retained.

* 2.160The Colour of this Vesture was anciently changed every year, commonly in∣to one of these four Colours, either Blue, Scarlet, Sanguine in grain, or White; but the Colour of the Mantles remained one and the same, as at the Insti∣tution, until Queen Elizabeth's Reign, namely Blue: and note that the Surcoats of the Knights-Companions, were always changed to the same Colour with the So∣veraign's.

The Founder's first Surcoat was of the same Cloth and Colour with his Mantle, viz. l 2.161 Blue; but that Surcoat provided for him in the 34. year of his Reign, was m 2.162 Black Cloth. And of the n 2.163 same Colour were those he bestowed (against the So∣lemnity of the Feast held that year) upon these following Knights-Companions, namely, the o 2.164 Black Prince, the Earls of Vlster, Richmond, and Salisbury, Edmund of Langley (his Son) Sir Richard la Vache, Sir Hugh Wrotesley, Sir Reignald Cob∣ham, Sir Bartholomew Burgherst, the Lord Mohun, Sir Walter Manney, Sir Nele Loring, Sir Walter Paveley, Sir William Fitz Waryn, Sir Miles Stapleton, the Earls of Stafford, Warwick, and Suffolk, and Sir Thomas Vghtred. But we conceive this mourning Colour was then assumed, because the p 2.165 Pestilence began again to encrease; the dreadful remembrance of that great Pestilence, which so furi∣ously raged eleven years before (called Pestilentia magna) inviting to all kind of humiliation. The Surcoats which the Soveraign gave the Dukes of Lancaster and Clarence, and 14 other Knights-Companions, r 2.166 an. 37. E. 3. were of Cloth, San∣guine in grain.

Those 24. provided for the Feast of St. George, an 7. R. 2. were s 2.167 Violet in grain; whereof one was for the Soveraign, the other 23. for these Knights-Companions

following, t 2.168 Iohn King of Castile and Leon, Duke of Lancaster, the E•••••••• of Cambridge, Buckingham, Derby, Kent, Warwick, Stafford, Salis∣bury, Northumberland, and Nottingham, the Lords Nevil, Basset, and Iohn Hol∣land, Sir Guy Bryan, Sir William Beauchamp, Sir Thomas Percy, Sir Nele Loring, Sir Iohn Sulby, Sir Lodowick Clifford, Sir Simon Burley, Sir Richard Burley, Sir Bryan Stapleton, and Sir Soldan de la Trane.

Anno 11. R. 2. there were made against St. George's Feast, three and twenty Surcoats of u 2.169 White Cloth, for the Soveraign and 22 Knights-Companions. And in the 12. and 19. year of the same King, the Soveraign bestowed on the same num∣ber of Knights, Surcoats of w 2.170 long Blue Cloth, as were the first.

The 23 Surcoats provided for the Feast of St. George, an 1. H. 5. were of x 2.171 White Cloth.

Anno — H. 6. the Soveraign's Gown or Surcoat was made of y 2.172 Scarlet; and so was that sent to the z 2.173 King of Portugal in the 13. year of the same King. Anno — H. 6. the Soveraign had a 2.174 White Cloth; and of b 2.175 like Colour were the Surcoats provided for 20 Knights-Companions in the — year of his Reign.

Afterwards the before mentioned four Colours, began to be laid aside, and others brought into use; for the Surcoat sent to Iulianus Medices, in the Reign of King Edward the Fourth, was c 2.176 Purple Velvet.

And by the Soveraign's Warrants entred in the great Wardrobe, towards the latter end of the Reign of King Henry the Eighth, and since; it is manifest the Surcoats of the Soveraign, and all the Knights-Companions were Crimson Velvet: Nor was this Colour altered in the Surcoat, though the late Soveraign restored the Mantle to its first and ancient Colour, an. 12. Car. 1.

It is evident that in provisions of Surcoats made for the Knights-Companions, * 2.177 against one and the same Feast, there hath been some difference in the Quan∣tity of the Cloth allowed: for we find, an. 34. E. 3. the Earls of Stafford, Warwick, and Suffolk, as also Sir Thomas Vghtred, had then allowed for each of their Sur∣coats, d 2.178 6 Ells of Cloth (perhaps the tallness of their stature required it) when the other 15 Knights-Companions were allowed but e 2.179 5 Ells, being the f 2.180 same quantity put into the Soveraign's Surcoat at the same time.

The Dukes of Holland and Clarence (an. 1. H. 5.) with the Earl of Arundel, were allowed g 2.181 8 Ells of Cloth apiece, the Dukes of Bedford, Gloucester, and York, the Earls of Westmerland and Warwick, the Lords Grey, Fitz-Hugh, and Roos, h 2.182 6 Ells apiece, the Earls of Dorset, with six Barons, and five Knights-Bat∣chellors, but i 2.183 5 Ells apiece.

Afterwards, when the number of Ells of Cloth, Garters, and Furrs came to be ascertained for each Degree, all the Knights-Companions (even the Prince of Wales) were stinted to a certain allowance of l 2.184 5 Ells of Cloth. But since Velvet came into use, the allowance for Surcoat and Hood (as appears by the Soveraign's Warrants) hath been eighteen yards; that is, while the Surcoat reached down to the feet, but now it being the fashion to wear it shorter, the allowance is but ten yards.

The length of the now Soveraign's Surcoat, is one yard and a half; and of the sleeve one yard wanting a Nail.

In the last place, * 2.185 the ornamental Trimmings of these Garments, especially at the time of Instituting the Order, are worthy observation; for they were then, and for a long time after, garnished or n 2.186 powdered all over with little Gar∣ters, embroided with Silk and Gold Plate; in each of which was neatly wrought the Motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense. Besides, the Buckles and Pendants to these small Garters were Silver, gilt. Of these embroidered Garters, there were laid upon the first Surcoat and Hood made for the Founder, no less than o 2.187 168.

In King Richard the Second's Reign, the little Garters that adorned the Surcoats of the Soveraign and Knights-Companions, were wrought in embroidery upon p 2.188 Blue Taffaty, with Cyprus and Soldat Gold, and Silk of divers Colours; and the Letters q 2.189 Gold.

And as the Soveraign was not limited in the proportion of Cloth or Velvet for his Surcoat; no more was he confined, to a certain number of Garters, wherewith

to adorn it: nor do I find, that any of the Knights-Companions were, until the Precedent of the Livery of the Garter was setled. For an. 1. H. 5. the D••kes of Holland and Clarence, the Earl of Arundel, the Dukes of Bedford and Gloucester, had each of their Surcoats adorn'd with r 2.190 120 Garters: but the Duke of York, and the rest of the Earls, Barons, and Knights-Batchelors wore but 100.

The setlement in the Precedent of the Livery was made in relation to the De∣grees of honor of each Knight-Companion, according to which, they had an al∣lowance of a greater or lesser number of Garters, that is to say

• A Duke 120 Garters.
• A Marquess 110 Garters.
• An Earl 100 Garters.
• A Viscount 90 Garters.
• A Baron 80 Garters.
• A Baneret 70 Garters.
• A Knight-Batchellor 60 Garters.

About the Reign of King Henry the Sixth, the Soveraign's number of Garters did not much exceed those which the Founder allowed to himself at the Institu∣tion; for the Surcoat and Hood of the said King, took up but s 2.191 173. and the King of Portugal, an. 13. H. 6. t 2.192 120 Garters. But this manner of adorning these Gar∣ments, grew at length quite out of fashion (perhaps when Cloth was altered to Velvet) and the plain Surcoat hath to this day continued in use.

In the second place it is to be noted, that all these Surcoats (whilst made of Cloth) were lined with Fur, of one and the same kind, to wit, with Bellies of pure Miniver; only the Soveraign's were u 2.193 purfled with Ermyn; and of these it seems a like proportion was at first allowed to all the Knights-Companions, viz. w 2.194 200 Bellies.

Yet in the Reign of King Richard the Second, some difference began in the allowance to the Knights-Companions; for a Baron and all Degrees upward had the same allowance of x 2.195 200 Bellies, but the Degrees under a Baron only y 2.196 120. Howbeit an. 1. H. 5. the Barons were equalled to the Knights-Batchellors, for all Degrees z 2.197 above a Baron were allowed a Fur of 200 Bellies, but the Barons and Knights Batchellors Furs were only of 120 Bellies.

Afterwards by the Precedent of the Garter, there was another Proportion set; the Prince, a Duke, a Marquess, an Earl, had each of them a 2.198 5 Timber of pure Miniver allowed to a Surcoat, but the Viscount, Baron, Baneret, and Batche∣lor Knight, but 3 Timber apiece. In time these Furs also were laid aside, and then the Surcoats came to be lined with White Sarcenet, to which, in Queen Eli∣zabeth's Reign, White Taffaty succeeded, and that still continues.

What became of these Surcoats heretofore, seeing the Knights-Companions had new ones every year, appears from this Note entred in the Black Book of the Order, b 2.199 That on the Eve of the Feast of St. George, the Knights wore to Vespers the Soveraign's Livery or Surcoats used by them the preceding year, which after that night they did not wear (for the new Surcoats were first worn on the Feast-day) but the Ensigns and Ornaments of this kind, were afterwards disposed of to the use of the Colledge.

SECT. IV. Of the Hood and Cap.

THE Hood comes in the next place to be spoken of, which in King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, and the Black Book of the Order, is called Humerale;

but in the Rolls of Accounts in the Soveraign's great Wardrobe, Capucium. In the French it is Chaperon, a word used in the Statute, an. 1. Ric. 2. c. 7. and also retained in an old English Draught of Henry the Eighth's Statutes, that seems to have been prepared for the view of the Soveraign and Knights-Companions, at their solemn meeting in Chapter at Windesor, an. 11. H. 8. for it carries the date of 29. of May, in that same year; on which day that memorable Chapter was held, for Reforming and Explaining the Statutes of the Order.

Hoods were anciently worn for defence of the Head, against the inconveni∣ences of weather, &c. but in later times Caps and Hats have supplied their place. How they were then worn and sat upon the Head, may be observed in that c 2.200 Plate, which exhibits the Portraictures of the first Founders of the Order, standing compleatly robed. As also with some variety of fashion in succeeding times, in the Pictures of d 2.201 William Beauchamp Lord Bergaveny, Richard Earl of Warwick, Humfry Earl of Stafford, and Iohn Duke of Norfolk. Yet is not the Hood quite laid aside, since still kept hanging down the back (almost like a Pil∣grims Hat) as if put in hopes (being so ready at hand) that it may again be re∣stored to its former use.

This Hood was Ordained, and is yet retained as part of the Habit of this most Noble Order: And though neither it, nor the Surcoat is remembred in the Sta∣tutes of Institution, or in either of its Exemplars, nor doth King Henry the Fifth's take notice of it, yet is it of equal antiquity with the rest of the Habit; as ap∣pears from several places before cited, out of the Rolls of the great Wardrobe; and Henry the Eighth's Statutes have made special observation of it, as part of the Habit, for there the Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, and Collar, are called e 2.202 the whole Habit of the Order. Nay, before this time, mention is made of it in the Black Book anno 22. H. 7. where at the Investiture of Philip King of Cas••ile, the Mantle, Kir∣tle, f 2.203 Hood, and Collar, are exprest to be the whole Habit, wherewith he was invested.

The form of this part of the Habit is perfectly described in the Plate at the be∣ginning of this Chapter. It was heretofore, and now is, generally made of the same materials with the Surcoat, and consequently of the same Colour. More∣over it was anciently trim'd and garnished, with a proportion of little embroi∣dered Garters, lined with Cloth of a different colour, and such as would best set off to view; but now with Taffaty, as is the Lining of the Surcoat; of all which mention is made, in those authorities cited before, and relating to the Surcoat.

As to the Cap, which in use and place succeeded the Hood, we shall brief∣ly say thus much: That it hath been, and yet is made of Black Velvet, lin'd with Taffaty, but the fashion hath several times varied: for in the Reign of King Henry the Eighth, the Cap was flat, as appears in a Proceeding of that Soveraign, and the Knights-Companions, fairly limned in the g 2.204 Black Book of the Order. In Queen Elizabeth's time, it was a little raised in the head, as may be seen in ano∣ther Proceeding in her Reign, which h 2.205 hereafter follows. But in King Iames his Reign, they were much more high crown'd; and the present fashion is shewn in our before mentioned Plate.

This Cap hath been usually adorned with Plumes of white Feathers, and Sprigs, and bound about with a Band, set thick with Diamonds; i 2.206 so was that Cap provided for the Installation of the present Soveraign: And sometimes the Brims have been tackt up with a large and costly Jewel.

It seems the custom of wearing Caps and Feathers at the grand Solemnities of the Order, had for some time (about the beginning of King Iames his Reign) been neglected; and thereupon, in a k 2.207 Chapter held the 13. of April, an. 10. Iac. Regis, this laudable usage was re-established.

To all these may be fitly added, the Cross of the Order, encompassed with a Garter, which by King Charles the First was * 2.208 Ordained to be worn, upon the left side of the Soveraign's and Knights-Companions Cloaks, Coats, and Cassocks, when they did not wear their Robes. The Order for which we shall here insert.

Charles R.

* 3.1WHereas the Robes concerning the Order, first, having the same ordinary use which Cloaks have at this time, and now are worn only at the Feast of St. George, Installing of Knights, and holding of Chapters, so that the Arms of the Garter, not being daily worn thereon, may be thought an omission, whereby the Order doth receive some diminution of honor, contrary to the intention of the Foun∣der. King Charles out of his princely desire by all due means to advance the honor of the said Noble Order, at a Chapter holden at his Palace of Westminster, on the 27. day of April, in the 2. year of his Reign of Great Britain, the same day, being by Prorogation appointed for the day and Feast of St. George, for that year, His Majesty, with eleven Knights of the Order, viz. Edward Earl of Worcester Lord Privy Seal, Robert Earl of Sussex, William Earl of Pembroke Lord Chamberlain of his Majesties House, Philip Earl of Montgomery, Francis Earl of Rutland, George Duke of Buckingham Lord high Admiral of England, William Earl of Sa∣lisbury, James Earl of Carlisle, Edward Earl of Dorset, Henry Earl of Holland, Captain of his Majesties Guard, and Thomas Earl of Berkshire, hath Ordered and and Ordained, That the Knights and Companions of the Order, and the Prelate and Chancellor of the same, shall after three months next ofter the date before men∣tioned of the said Order, wear upon the left part of their Cloaks, Coats, and Riding Cassocks, at all times when they shall not wear their Robes, and in all Places and Assemblies, an Escotcheon of the Arms of St. George, that is to say, a Cross within a Garter, not enriched with Pearls or Stones; that the wearing thereof may be a te∣stimony apert to the World, of the honor they hold from the said most Noble Order, Instituted and Ordained for persons of the highest honor and greatest worth.

And it seems it was not long after e're the Glory or Star (as it is usually called) having certain beams of Silver that spread in form of a Cross, was introduced and added thereunto, in imitation (as is thought) of the French, who after that manner wore the chief Ensign of the Order of the Holy Ghost, being the resem∣blance of a Dove, irradiated with such like beams.

And whereas some allow this Symbol of the Holy Ghost, to be properly enough surrounded with a Glory, like as are the representations of the Heads of our Saviour and his Apostles, by a general consent among Painters, yet censure it altogether improper for a Garter to be so adorned; let them consider that King Edward the Fourth, encompassed his White Rose with the like Glory (whereof both the Stone-work, and Wood-work of St. George's Chappel in Windesor Castle afford divers instances) and then there will be found something of Precedent for it, long before Institution of the Order of the Holy Ghost, as also of its appli∣cation to other no less than sacred things. But this King assumed this Devise, upon the Sun's appearance like three Suns, which suddenly united together in∣to one, immediately before his fortunate Victory at the Battel of Mortimer's Cross: an occasion, which he thought himself much obliged to perpetuate.

And they mistake, who take it to be the Garter, in this new Ornament, that is thus irradiated, but there is something else in it, which was then thought more worthy of the Glory, and from it, not the Garter, do the beams and rays spread; namely the Cross of the Order, esteemed glorious, since it shined so in Heaven, at its appearance to Constantine the Great; which that it may more evidently appear, a draught of the Medal stamped in memorial of adding this honorable Devise is here repre∣sented, whereby it is manifest, the Glory issues from the Cross, not Garter.

[illustration]

SECT. V. The Robes anciently assigned to the Queen and great Ladies.

HAving thus dispatcht our discourse concerning the Robes of the Order, we shall next give some light to a Custom taken up shortly after its Instituti∣on, of honoring the Queen, some of the Knights-Companions Wives; and other great Ladies, with Robes and Hoods, of the gift of the Soveraign, and of the same materials, as were the Soveraign's and Knights-Companions Surcoats; garnished also with little embroidered Garters, and lined with rich Furs; which Robes they likewise wore during the Solemnity of the Feast of St. George.

The first mention of this, which hath occurr'd to us, is m 3.2 an. 7. R. 2. (though we conceive tis elder) where, against the Feast of St. George, appointed to be held that year, such kind of Robes and Hoods were provided for the n 3.3 Queen, the So∣veraign's Mother, the Dutchess of Lancaster, the Countesses of Cambridge, Buck∣ingham, Penbroke, Oxford, and Salisbury, the Ladies Philippa and Katherine, Daughters to the Duke of Lancaster and the Lady Mohun.

They were made of Cloth o 3.4 Violet in grain, like as the Soveraign and Knights-Companions Surcoats that year. The Robes lined with p 3.5 Fur, but the Hoods, with q 3.6 Scarlet, and both embroidered over with r 3.7 little Garters; and the proportion of Cloth, Furs, and Garters were allowed according to their several Degrees. For the Queens allowance was s 3.8 8 Ells of Cloth, and half an Ell of Scarlet, for the lining of her Hood; the Soveraign's Mother had allowed her one whole Cloth, and a double proportion of Scarlet: but we conceive she had two Robes and Hoods made at this time, in regard so large quantity of all things were assigned her, besides the particular number (accounting the Queen for one) are but 11. and cannot else reach the total of Robes provided for them, and expresly set down to be t 3.9 12.

The Dutchess of Lancaster had the allowance of half a Cloth, and half an Ell of Scarlet, the Coun••ess of Cambridge 7 Ells of Cloth, and half an Ell of Scarlet; and the rest of the Ladies the same proportion of Cloth with the Knights-Companions; that is, each of them 5 Ells apiece, and half an Ell of Scarlet.

According to their proportion of Cloth, was also their proportion of Mini∣vers, the Queens allowance was two Furs, each of them containing 300 Bellies of pure Miniver; the Soveraign's Mother had double that proportion; the Dut∣chess of Lancaster, and Countess of Cambridge a like proportion of Minivers as had the Queen, but all the rest of the Ladies had only one Fur, consisting of 200 Bellies of pure Miniver▪ Besides, the embroidered Garters provided to adorn and garnish the u 3.10 24 Surcoats of the Soveraign and Knights-Companions, and the w 3.11 12 Robes for the Queen and other Ladies, amounted to the number of x 3.12 2900 Garters.

In like manner were there prepared against the Feast of St. George, an. 11. R. 2. y 3.13 15 Robes and Hoods for the Queen and other Ladies, of the same livery and sute, which the Soveraign and Knights-Companions then wore: namely, white long Cloth, and blue Cloth for the lining of their Hoods: the proportion in all things being like the former: z 3.14 The Dutchess of York having here the like allowance as had the Dutchess of Lancaster above mentioned.

Anno 13. R. 2. the Ladies Robes and Hoods were a 3.15 Sanguine Cloth, and the lining of their Hoods Cloth in grain; and in the 19. year of the same King they were b 3.16 Blue Cloth, and long Cloth in grain for lining their Hoods. In both these years we find the Dutchess of Aquitane had double the proportion of Cloth allowed her (as had also the Dutchess of York) viz. 14 Ells (the Queen having then but the former allowance of 8 Ells) and yet her proportion of lining both for the Robe and Hood, was no more than is mentioned before be allowed the Queen.

But an. 1. H. 5. the proportion of Cloth, Minivers, and Garters were alike to Ladies

of all Degrees, whether Dutchesses, Countesses, or other Ladies, and that was to each 5 Ells of White Wollen Cloth, (only the Queen Mother had 8 Ells of White Cloth, and 8 Ells of Black Cloth) a Fur containing 200 Bellies of Mini∣ver pure, and 100 embroidered Garters. And by a d 3.17 Letter dormant, under the Privy Seal, dated the 3. of November an. 12. H. 6. and directed to the then Ma∣ster of the Soveraign's great Wardrobe, the like Livery (both for Colour of Cloth, number of Ells, Bellies of Miniver, and Garters) is commanded to be provided, for the Countess of Suffolk, against the succeeding Feast of St. George.

The last mention we find of these Liveries was e 3.18 an. 16. E. 4. when at the Feast of St. George, held the Sunday after the 27. of February at Windesor, the Queen, the Lady Elizabeth the Kings eldest Daughter, and Dutchess of Suffolk the Kings Si∣ster, had for their Livery Murrey Gowns embroidered with Garters.

Besides, these Robes worn by the Ladies, at the Festivals of the Order, there seems to be some intimation of wearing a Garter also on their left arms, in like manner as the Knights-Companions do on their left Legs; for it is observed to our hand, from the Countess of f 3.19 Tankerviles Monument, that she is portrayed with such a Garter on her left Arm.

After a long disuse of these Robes by the Queens of England, and Knights-Com∣panions Ladies, there was (at the Feast of St. George, celebrated an. 14. Car. 1.) endeavour used to have them restored; for the then Deputy Chancellor moved the Soveraign in Chapter (held the g 3.20 22. of May) h 3.21 That the Ladies of the Knights-Companions might have the priviledge to wear a Garter of the Order about their arms; and an upper Robe, at Festival times, according to ancient usage. Upon which motion the Soveraign gave Order, i 3.22 That the Queen should be acquainted therewith, and her pleasure known, and the affair left to the Ladies particular suit.

The k 3.23 10. of October in the following year (the Feast of St. George, being then also kept at Windesor) the Deputy Chancellor, l 3.24 reported to the Soveraign in Chapter, the Answer which the Queen was pleased to give him to the aforesaid Order; m 3.25 Whereupon it was then left to a Chapter to be called by the Knights-Com∣panions to consider of every circumstance, how it were fittest to be done, for the ho∣nor of the Order; which was appointed to be held at London, about Alhollantide after: but what was then, or after done, doth not appear; and the unhappy War coming on, this matter wholly slept.

SECT. VI. Of Collars in general.

THE Collar is an Ornament, not of late, but ancient invention; and cer∣tainly, could we not deduce its antiquity very high, yet the wonderful consent of most Nations therein, would sufficiently plead for it, since such a consent can scarce be found, unless in things most ancient.

As to its Antiquity, the Author of the first Book of n 3.26 Sacred Writ, setting down the Ornaments bestowed by Pharaoh on Ioseph, mentions the Collar to be one, and of Gold; that being the Metal whereof it was in all times ordinarily made: And it may be inferr'd, the use of it in that, was the same as in this Age, viz. to be worn about the neck; in regard Pharaoh put it about Ioseph's Neck.

Again, the Draught of that most ancient Hierogliphical Table, reserved of old in the Temple of Isis in Aegypt, and most happily conserved till of late years (when, though it unhappily perished at the o 3.27 sacking of Mantua by the Spaniards, an. 1630. yet was fortunately set forth before in Picture by Laurentius Pignorius) doth evidence the great antiquity of this Ornament among them; for there are to be found incircling the Necks of the Images of Isis and Osiris such like Collars, in a

manner extending to their shoulders: Their workmanship seems curious, being intersected with various lines, and divided with Tablets and precious Stones.

The Collar became first and principally famous among the Romans, for having given a p 3.28 Surname of perpetual memory to one of the chiefest Families in Rome, derived unto it from T. Manlius Torquatus, who fought with a Champion of the Gauls, neer the River Anio, Anno V. C. 392. and having vanquished him, q 3.29 cut off his Head, then pluckt off his Collar, and (bloody as it was) put it about his own neck. Livy saith, r 3.30 the Soldiers, when they presented him to the Dictator, were heard to Surname him Torquatus, and from him that honorable name de∣scended to his Posterity.

In further memory of this gallant action, and to shew the original of this Surname, the representation of the Collar of this Gaul, is found stamped upon some Roman Coyns, in particular that referring to s 3.31 L. Torquatus, Consul with t 3.32 L. Cotta, An V. C. 688. which we have here inserted, to the end its fashion may be the better known.

[illustration]

[illustration]

[illustration]

[illustration]

And we shall herewith note, that when one of another Tribe became adopt∣ed into this Family, he also did assume this Badge of Honor; as may be seen in another Coyn relating to D. Iunius Silanus, sometime * 3.33 Pretor of Macedonia, adopted into the Manlian Family of the Torquati; though the fashion of the work be somewhat differing from the former.

In eldest times, none but Kings and Princes wore Collars, and therefore their first use seems to be a note of Dignity and Power: as is evident out of Daniel, where is noted, that the Assyrian Kings used this Ornament. Afterwards men fa∣mous for wisdom, excelling in Counsels, and thereby beneficial to their Country, had Collars bestowed on them, for tokens of Reward; and this is plain, as in the Example of Ioseph, so likewise from the u 3.34 Proclamation of Belshazzar King of Babylon, among the Rewards proposed to him, that could read and interpret the Writing on the Wall. But the Collar was bestowed as a Reward also upon those, whose famous actions and military enterprises merited well, and rendered them deserving of eminent recompences, though otherwise persons of no great or ex∣traordinary note.

Thus the Romans among the w 3.35 Dona & Praemia Militaria, those solemn Re∣wards, wherewith they honored Virtue, which upon occasion of merit and de∣sert, they bestowed among such of their Commanders and Soldiers, as had gal∣lantly exposed their lives to dangers for the service of that Common-wealth; and no less to excite others to like performances, than to recompence the deserving for great services done; among these (we say) Collars were of the number, and the honor of receiving them thought worthy to be preserved for the notice of Po∣sterity, in Marble Inscriptions; of which sort there are many collected by the in∣dustrious x 3.36 Gruter, out of whom, for a specimen of this kind, we have transcrib∣ed this that follows, * 3.37 M. LICINIO. MVCIANO. &c.
—DONIS. DONATO—ob vir¦
TVTEM. ET. FORTITVDINEM.
BELLO. DACICO. AB. IMP. TRAIANO.
CORONA. VICTRICI. PVRA. HASTA. TOR∣QVIBVS.
ARMILLIS. PHALERIS. &c.

This custom of bestowing Collars, as a peculiar Reward for military and me∣morable services, was continued down to, and used by the later Emperors, as the learned Budaeus observes. And we read of Investing a Knight of the Sepulchre

with a Collar, at his Creation: where assoon as the Ceremony of his Ordina∣tion is finished, the Padre Guardian kisseth the new made Knight, and y 3.38 puts about his neck (according to the manner of Ancients) a Golden Collar, with a Cross hanging thereat.

Most fitly therefore have the Soveraigns of Military Orders, added this Orna∣ment of the Collar to their Habit, and bestowed it on the Fellows and Compani∣ons; many of whom have meritoriously deserved it, upon account of those an∣cient qualifications, Wisdom and Valour.

SECT. VII. The Collar of the Order.

HEreupon also, in addition to the Ensigns and Ornaments of this most Noble Order of the Garter, there was instituted a Collar, composed after a peculiar manner, exactly relative to the name and title of the Order; to the wearing of which, the Soveraign obliged both himself, and Knights-Companions, and His and their Successors.

This Collar was Ordained to be a 3.39 Gold, 30 ounces Troy weight, but not above: howbeit, that Collar sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, weighed 34 ounces and a quarter; and that belonging to the late Soveraign King Charles the First, 35 ounces and a half; which after his Sufferings coming into the hands of b 3.40 Thomas Harison, sometime called Major General Harison, was by him delivered to the Trustees for sale of this Kings Goods, who c 3.41 Anno 1649. sent it to the Mint with the d 3.42 Regalia here particularized to set the Stamp on work for the first Gold that the upstart Common-wealth coyned, viz.

• The Imperial Crown,* 3.43 weighing 7 l. 6 ounces, enriched with 19 Saphirs (3 of which were exceeding large) 232 Pearls, 58 Rubies, 28 Diamonds and 2 Emeralds.
• The Queens Crown, weighing 3 l. 10 ounces 1 half, enriched with 20 Sa∣phirs, 22 Rubies, and 83 Pearls.
• An ancient Crown weighing 2 l. 1 ounce, enriched with one fair Diamond (valued by the Trustees, who rated such things far beneath their worth, at 200 l.) 13 other Diamonds, 10 Rubies, 1 Emerald, 1 Saphir (valued by them at 60 l.) and 70 Pearls; which Stones and Pearls weighed 3 ounces.
• The Globe or Orb,* 3.44 weighing 1 l. 5 ounces 1 quarter.
• Two Coronation Bracelets (adorned with 3 Rubies Ballas, and 12 Pearls weighing an ounce) in all 7 ounces 1 quarter.
• Two Scepters, weighing 18 ounces 1 quarter.
• A long Rod Silver gilt, weighing 1 l. 5 ounces.
• One Gold Porringer and Cover, weighing 15 ounces 1 half.
• One Chalice, adorned with 2 Saphirs and 2 Ballas Rubies, weighing 15 ounces 1 half.
• Two Patena's enamelled, weighing 25 ounces 1 half.
• Two Spoons, with flat heads, weighing 5 ounces 1 quarter.
• One Taster, enamelled with a Phenix, weighing 5 ounces 1 half.
• Two Offering Pieces and a Sey of Gold, weighing 10 ounces 1 quarter.
• Queen Edith's Crown (formerly thought to be of massy Gold,* 3.45 but upon tryal found Silver gilt) enricht with Garnets, Pearls, Saphirs, and other Stones, weighing 50 ounces.
• King Elfrid's Crown, of Gold Wirework, set with Stones, and two little Bells, weighing 79 ounces •• half.
• ...

• A Patena enamelled, set with Stones, weighing 23 ounces 1 half.
• The Ampulla, set with Stones and Pearls, weighing 8 ounces 1 half.
• A large Staff, with a Dove on the top, the upper part Gold, the lower part Silver gilt, weighing 27 ounces.
• A small Staff, with a flower de Lis on the top, being Iron within, and Silver gilt without.
• Two Scepters, one set with Pearls and Stones, the upper end Gold, weighing 23 ounces, the lower end Silver gilt. The other Scepter Silver gilt, having a Dove weighing 7 ounces 3 quarters.
• The Gold of the Tassels of a Liver-coloured Robe (adorned with Pearl) weighing 4 ounces, also the Gold of the Neck Button of the Coat, weigh∣ing 1 ounce.
• A pair of Silver gilt Spurs, set with 12 Stones, (having Straps of Crimson Silk) weighing 6 ounces 3 quarters.

Besides these, there were other parts of the Regalia fetcht from Westminster-Abbey, and sold by these Trustees, namely

• One large Chalice of Glass, wrought in Figures, and set in Gold, with Stones and Pearls, weighing 68 ounces 1 half.
• A Staff of black and white Ivory, having a Dove on the top, the binding and feet Gold.
• A Silver Spoon gilt weighing 3 ounces.
• One Crimson Tafsaty Robe.* 3.46
• One Robe trim'd with Gold Lace.
• One Liver-coloured Silk Robe.
• One Robe of Crimson Tafsaty Sarcenet.
• One pair of Buskins Cloth of Silver.
• One pair of Shoes Cloth of Gold.
• One pair of embroidered Gloves.
• Three Swords, with Scabards Cloth of Gold.
• One Horn Comb.

It was further appointed by King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, that this Collar should be composed ofe 3.47 pieces of Gold in fashion of Garters, the ground enamelled Blue, and the Letters of the Motto Gold. In the midst of each Garter, two f 3.48 Roses placed, the innermost enamelled Red, and the outermost White; contrarily in the next Garter, the innermost Rose enamelled White, and the outermost Red; and so alternately continued: but of later times these Roses are wholly Red.

The number of these Garters are so many, as be the ordained number of the Soveraign and Knights-Companions, by the Institution of the Order, viz. Twenty six; being tyed together with as many Knots of Gold: and this fashion hath in all particulars hitherto continued invariable.

Nor ought the Collar to be garnished or enriched with precious Stones (as may the George which hangs thereat) such costly embelishments being absolutely pro∣hibited by the g 3.49 Law of the Order.

At the middle of the Collar before, is to be fastned the Image of St. George arm∣ed, sitting on Horseback, who having thrown the Dragon upon his back, en∣counters him with a tilting Spear. This Jewel is not surrounded with a Garter, or row of Diamonds, as is the lesser George, but made according to the representa∣tion in the Plate above, and called the Great George. It is allowed to be * 3.50 gar∣nished with Diamonds, and other enrichments, at the pleasure of the Knight-Companion who owns it; and upon that license, hath been frequently adorned with variety of costly art, whereon the Diamonds and other precious Stones are so disposed, as may upon its motion and agitation cast out the greater lustre.

But before the establishment of this Article by King Henry the Eighth, it appears the Knights-Companions were invested with Collars at their installations; for the Black Book takes notice of a h 3.51 Collar among the Ensigns of the Order, wherewith

Philip King of Castile was invested, an. 22. H. 7. but whether a Collar of SS, or other fashion, doth not there appear. Nevertheless this doubt is in part cleared, by an old memorial of the ceremonies used at the i 3.52 Creation of Henry Lord Staf∣ford Earl of Wiltshire (Brother to Edward Duke of Buckingham) 3. Feb. an. 1. H. 8. where it is noted, that after he was invested with the Robes of his State and Dignity, k 3.53 The Collar of the Garter was put about his neck, denoting him a Knight of that Order.

And to make it yet more evident, there is found in a l 3.54 Vellom Book of Statutes in French, sent to Maximilian the Emperor, signed the 5. of Ianuary 1508. by T. Rowthale then Register of the Order. And in m 3.55 another belonging to Edward Stanley Lord Mounteagle, elected n 3.56 an. 6. H. 8. a particular Article (namely the 41.) that Ordains a Collar to be publickly worn by each Knight-Companion, there called the Collar of the Order, which though it be not in all respects agreea∣ble to the fashion of that prescribed by King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, yet comes it very neer, and said to be a Gold Collar, coupled together by several pieces of Links in fashion of Garters, with a Vermilion Rose, and the Image of St. George hung thereat. The reason of the Knights-Companions wearing it, the times appointed therefore, the License for putting it to mending, the command not to enrich the Collar, but the George only, and obligation not to sell, pawn, or alienate it for any necessity whatsoever, are wholly the same, as were afterwards enjoined by o 3.57 King Henry the Eight; so that in truth he did no more but adjoin to his Body of Statutes, a Decree, which (for the main) had been in practice be∣fore. Besides, an. 11. H. 8. upon interpretation of the 11. Article of the Statutes for wearing the Habit of the Order, at the grand Feast of St. George; the p 3.58 Collar is there enumerated among those Ornaments (as part of the whole Habit) that a Knight-Companion is obliged to wear.

In further proof that the Collar of Garters was used before King Henry the Eight's Reign, let us offer here the Monument of Sir Giles Daubeney (who died an. 22. H. 7.) erected in St. Paul's Chappel seituate on the north side of St. Ed∣ward's Shrine in Westminster Abbey, whereon his Portraicture, in his Robes of the Order, is adorned with such a Collar, as King Henry the Eighth's Statutes do af∣terwards describe.

As the Garter sent to Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden, so the great George (pendant at his Collar, weighing seven ounces) was set with large and resplen∣dent Diamonds; the particulars and order do fully appear, out of the Counter∣part of that Inventory (mentioned at the beginning of this Chapter) taken upon its delivery into the custody of the Dean and Canons of Windesor, and were as followeth.

In the three Chains of the George, small Diamonds

10

In St. George's Feather, three small, middlemost wanting

2

In his Forehead

1

In his Breast-plate, four faucet Diamonds, of a reasonable bigness

4

In the right Arm, faucet big

4

In the left Arm

4

In his Baces, of a big sort

4

Thigh, Knee, Leg, and Foot, one in each

4

The Horses head, in the forehead a faucet Diamond

1

In his Crest, very small, beside two wanting

5

In his Mane, four lozenge Diamonds

4

In his Neck

1

In his Bridle [4] small, one wanting

3

On his shoulder, two square, and two lozenge Diamonds of a bigger size

4

On his buttock, one square Diamond, and eight about, on his Traps and Crupper six, four wanting on the border of his saddle behind

21

Four square Diamonds large, at the skirts and leg

4

[illustration]

Between the fore legs, one fair square Diamond

1

The Dragon's forehead

1

In his Wing and Body, faucet Diamonds, one wanting

9

Total of the George are just

87

This George (with the Collar) was sold by the Trustees for sale of the late Kings Goods, to the before named Thomas Beauchamp.

Of what account this Noble Ensign of Honor [the Collar] hath been with the Soveraigns, and Knight-Companions, not only of the Order of the Garter, but other Military Orders; may be observed from the Pictures of some of them, as al∣so their Seals, Coyns, and Medals: which later passing up and down, after a pub∣lick manner, proclaim its honor throughout the world: for in these they have been pleased to exhibit as well their Effigies, as Scutcheons of Arms, incircled there∣with; and also the Symbols of their several Orders pendant thereto.

There is a Picture (hanging in his Majesties Gallery at Whitehall) of Philip Duke of Burgundy, Founder of the Golden Fleece, adorned with the Collar of that Order. And the leading example of the like representation in Seals, was first given by a Successor of his, above 180 years since, as appears from the great Seal of q 3.59 Maximilian and Philip his Son, Archdukes of Austria, Burgundia, &c. fixed to the agreement of Peace made between them and the Flemings, an. 1485. wherein the Pictures of both these Princes are represented, wearing their Collars of the Golden Fleece; and this fashion hath been since continued in Seals, by their descendents Kings of Spain, Soveraigns of that Order.

The French King Lewis the Eleventh, after he had instituted the Order of St. Mi∣chael, caused his Picture to be drawn (hitherto preserved at Fountain-bleau) with the Collar of that Order; the Copy of which François de Mezeray, having ex∣hibited in his r 3.60 History of France, we thence made a draught of it.

In like manner, in a Picture of Ame the Tenth Duke of Savoy (now hanging in the Gallery at Whitehall) is represented the ancient Collar of the Annunciade, and thereon the Motto in old Characters, used at the Foundation of that Order: All which we have caused to be etch'd (Tab. 1.) for the Readers satisfaction; to∣gether with the Medals made upon the Coronation of King Charles the First at Westminster, and of the present Soveraign there also, on the Feast day of St. George (Patron to this most Noble Order of the Garter) an. 1661. in both which, the Collar of the Garter may be seen placed over their Royal Robes.

Soon after the Institution of the Order of the Holy Ghost, the French Kings were represented wearing the Collars both of St. Michael and the Holy Ghost; it being Ordained by the Statutes of the later Order, s 3.61 that whosoever should be ho∣nored with both Orders, should wear their Collars, together: and perhaps, upon the same ground it was thought fit, that the Collars of both the Garter and the Thistle, should be exprest in the Coronation Medal of King Charles the First in Scotland, an. 1633.

And as the Soveraigns, so the Knights-Companions of several Orders, have as∣sumed this manner of adorning their Effigies with the Collar of that Order, where∣of they were Fellows: the Copies of some of their Medals and Coyns, are also exprest in Tab. 2. that is to say, the Funeral Medal of t 3.62 Lewis King of Hungary, Knight and Companion of the Golden Fleece, another Medal of d 3.63. Iames the Fourth King of Scotland, Knight of the Order of St. Michael, stamped at such time as he invaded England, an. 1513. one of e 3.64 Christierne the Second, King of Denmark, upon his Expedition against the Swedes: as also the Dollars of George Duke of Saxony, Henry Duke of Brunswick, and a piece of Gold of Sigismund the Fourth King of Poland; which last is now in his Majesties rich Cabinet of Me∣dals. And in like manner are extant the Pictures of divers Knights-Companions of the Garter in Painting, Limning, and Sculpture, adorned with the Collars of that Order.

And to make this Noble Ensign become ornamental to the Arms also both of Soveraigns and Knights, they have been placed (sometimes with their Quarterings)

within it; the first we find ordered in this manner, was a Seal of f 3.65 Charles the bold, Duke of Burgundy, Chief and Soveraign of the Order of the Golden Fleece, put to an Instrument, dated anno 1470. and whom we observe to have adorned the neck of the Lion of Flanders therewith, in another of his g 3.66 Seals, as in Tab. 3. The Chiefs of other Orders did the like, as may be seen from other ex∣amples of Coyns and Medals in the same Table: But the Soveraigns of the most No∣ble Order of the Garter, usually incircled their Arms, not within the Collar of the Order, but the Royal Garter, that being its principal Ensign.

This led on the custom to the Fellows and Companions of other Orders, to en∣compass their Arms with the Collars, both in Coyns, Medals, &c. examples of some are added by the Graver, in Tab. 4. Among these is the draught of a Seal of Charles Count Palatine of the Rhine, incircled both with the Garter and Col∣lar of the Order, and is the first example we have met with, wherein both these Ensigns are used together. The last in the 4. Table, is the full Atchieve∣ment of Bernard de Foix de la Valette Duke of Aspernon, &c. set beneath his Effi∣gies, graved at Paris by P. Van Schuppen, where his Arms and Quarterings are en∣compassed with the chiefest Ensigns of those three Orders, whereof he was a Bro∣ther and Companion.

And here it is proper to observe, that the more ancient the Order, whose chief Ensign is after this manner represented, the neerer ought it be set to the Scutcheon of Arms being the more honorable place: and consequently, a great mistake was committed, in marshalling the Collars of the several Orders, about the Arms of the Duke of Chevereux, in his Plate remaining over his Stall at Windesor, where the Collars of St. Michael and of the Holy Ghost are both placed neerer to his Scutche∣on, than is the Garter.

SECT. VIII. Collars of SS.

IT will not be amiss in this place, since there are now in use with us several sorts of Collars, worn as Badges of lower and inferior Honors (some of which are adorned with part of the Collar of the Garter) and vulgarly called Collars of SS: to note down a few things concerning them: having first given a more ex∣act account, as to their antiquity, than yet hath been made publick among us.

h 3.67 Georgius Wicelius informs us, that he found a Book remaining in the Library at Fulda, where (in the life of the two Brothers Simplicius and Faustinus, both Se∣nators, and i 3.68 suffered Martyrdom under Dioclesian) is a description of the Society of Saint Simplicius, consisting of persons noble in their own Families; and so coming to describe the Collar used, as the Note and Badge of their Society, he says thus: It was the custom of those persons to wear about their necks Silver Collars, composed of double SS, which noted the name of Saint Simplicius: between these dou∣ble SS the Collar contained 12 small plates of Silver, in which were engraved the 12 Articles of the Crede, together with a single Tresoyle. The Image of Saint Simplicius hung at the Collar, and from it 7 Plates, representing the 7 gifts of the Holy Ghost.

As to the manner of their suffering, it is thus set down in an old Legend; k 3.69 They were commanded to undergo the sentence of death, their Bodies to be bound together by the neck to a Stone, and sent to the Bridge over the Tiber in Rome, and thence thrown into the River: All which was executed upon them, the l 3.70 287. year after the Incarnation of our Saviour.

How long since the Collar of SS came into use here in England, we no where find, though we have done our endeavour to be satisfied: But if credit may be given to a Monument, standing at this day entire, in the Collegiate Church at Warwick it will appear, to have been at least 300 years since, and worn as an

[illustration]

Ornament for Women as well as Men: for there the Portraicture of Margaret Wife of Sir William Peito (said to be buried in the Reign of King Edward the Third) hath a Collar composed of SS, drawn about and set close to her neck; which the Graver, in the m 3.71 Antiquities of Warwickshire, hath t••••ugh mistake, represented like to a set Ruff. There was to be seen a Collar of SS, also about the neck of Sir Simon Barley's Statue in St. Pauls Cathedral London, but the Monument perished in the dreadful fire anno 1666.

And 'tis probable, that to these Collars, the passage in Walsingbam (cited by n 3.72 Mr. Selden to this purpose) should refer; where speaking of the Earl of Kent's coming to Sunning neer Reading in Berkshire, where Richard the Se∣cond's Queen then lay, to comfort her with the assurance, that her Hus∣band was then at liberty; o 3.73 to the end he might gain credit to his relation, forthwith pluckt off the Collars from some there present that wore them, leting them know, they ought not to wear a Badge, so particularly relative to Hen∣ry the Fourth.

In the ancient creation of an Esquire in England, part of the Ceremony was, that the King put about his neck a p 3.74 Silver Collar of SS, as an Ensign of that Dig∣nity: and our learned Selden contemns not the authority of that old Ballad, The Canner of Camworth, to q 3.75 prove the making of Esquires in King Edward the Fourth's Reign, by bestowing such Collars.

But that the Golden Collar was the undoubted Badge of a Knight, may be in∣stanced in a multitude of Examples, deduced from the Monuments of persons of that Degree in the Reigns of Henry the Sixth, Edward the Fourth, Henry the Seventh, Henry the Eighth, and since: and so justly and legally appropriate thereto, that in the r 3.76 Act of Parliament made for reformation of Apparel, there is a Proviso entred, That Knights, notwithstanding, might publickly wear a Gold Collar of SS, though since it hath grown out of fashion.

s 3.77 Andrew Favin tells us, that our King Henry the Fifth Instituted an Order, sur∣named Knights of the SS, on the day of the Martyrs St. Crispine and Crispianus: of which Institution, though he found nothing mentioned in our English Histories, yet out of the Chronicle of I. Iuvenal des Vrsins, where it treats of the Battel of Agin-Court, he collected this following relation.

t 3.78 The King of England exhorted his men, and commanded, that if any of them had trespassed against another, they should be reconciled, and confess to the Priests, that were in their company, otherwise no good could happen to them in their undertak∣ings: He further exhorted them to be civil in their march, and to do their duty well, and thus agreed with them: That all those of their company who were not Gentle∣men, he would make them so, and give them Warrants for it, and have them thence forward enjoy such Priviledges as the Gentlemen of England had; and to the end they should be particularly known from other, he gave them leave to wear a Collar pow∣dered with the letter S.

Among the variety of Collars of SS now in use with us, there are these follow∣ing differences in Figure and Fashion.

The Lord Mayor of London's Collar is Gold, having a knot (like one of those which tye the Garters together, in the great Collar of the Order) inserted between two SS, and they again placed between two Roses, viz. a White Rose within a Red; and in the middle before the Breast, is a large Portcullis, whereat hangs a most rich Jewel, set with fair and large Diamonds

The Collars of the Lords Chief Iustices of both the Benches, and the Chief Baron of the Exchequer, are (in u 3.79 memory of the before mentioned Saint Simplicius, a Senator and consequently a Gown-man) formed of the Letter S and a Knot al∣ternately; having a Rose set in that part of it, which falls out to be in the mid∣dle of their Breasts, and another on their Backs: the five Flowers of these Roses, are made of five large Pearls.

Those Collars which appertain to the Kings and Heralds of Arms, so likewise to the Serjeants at Arms, having been bestowed by former Kings, and renew∣ed to them by his present Majesty, to be worn upon all days of solemn atten∣dance for his honor, are also composed of SS, linked together; in the middle of the

Breast is a Rose, and another in the middle of the Back, at each of which hang three small drops of Silver. But the SS in the Collars worn by the Kings of Arms, are made somewhat bigger than the others; and in that part lying on either shoul∣der, •• a Portcullis taken in between the SS, which are wanting in the rest.

The general difference between the Collars, appropriate to the Degrees be∣fore named, is this: All such persons as are honored with Knighthood, have al∣lowed them Collars of Silver gilt, but to Esquires those of Silver only: and therefore he that is created an Herald is also in part of that Ceremony made an Esquire, by putting on a Collar of SS of Silver about his neck: and so is a Ser∣jeant at Arms.

The Kings of England have sometimes heretofore drawn a Collar of SS about their Arms, in like manner as we have shewed, how the Garter doth surround them: and we have seen impression of King Henry the Eight's Privy Signet, whereon his Royal Arms (crowned) are incircled with a Collar of SS, to the lower end of which is affixed two Portcullisses.

SECT. IX. The lesser George.

WE do not find among the Records of the Order, that the Image of St. George was at any time worn by the Soveraign, or Knights-Companions before the Breast, or under the right Arm, as now used, until the 13. year of King Henry the Eighth: But then that Soveraign past a Decree in Chapter held at Greenwich, the morrow after St. George's day, with consent of the Knights-Com∣panions, present to this effect. w 3.80 That every Knight of the Order, should wear loosely before his Breast, the Image of St. George in a Gold Chain, or otherwise in a Ribband, the same to be thence forward placed within the ennobled Garter; to the end a manifest distinction should thereby appear, between the Knights-Companions and others of the Nobility and Knights, who according to the fashion of those times, wore large Gold Chains, the ordinary Ensign of their Knighthood. And thus the wearing the Medal or Jewel (usually called the Lesser George, to distin∣guish it from the other George worn at the Collar of the Order) was first enjoined, and hath since been constantly so used.

This George was for the most part made of pure Gold, curiously wrought by the hand of the Goldsmith, but we have seen divers of them exquisitely cut in oni••'s, as also in Agats, and therein such happy choice of the Stones, that by joining thereto the Workmans skill, in designing and laying out the Figures, to express the History, the natural tincture of the Stones have fitted them with Co∣lours, for Flesh, Hair, and every thing else, even to admiration. In this Jewel is St. George represented in a riding posture, encountring the Dragon with his drawn Sword.

By the last Article of King Henry the Eighth's Statutes this George is allowed to be enriched and garnished at the pleasure of him that wears it (as is the great George) which for the most part hath been curiously enamelled, and the Garter about it set with Diamonds, in the best order either art or invention could de∣vise. And of what weight and bigness these lesser Georges formerly were, may be judged from that sent to the French King Charles the Ninth, being x 3.81 an ounce and a half, and half quarter weight.

The variety of Workmanship shown in those Gold Chains, whereat this Jewel hung, was usually great, and the Artists upon all occasions express much inge∣nuity and skill in them, according to the fancy or pleasure of the persons for whom they were made.

But within a short time, wearing the lesser George in Silk Ribb••nds, as well as Gold Chains was indifferently used and at pleasure (so were the Symbols of Forreign Orders, as appears from sundry Coyns and Medals) but the Colour of these Rib∣bands at their first use were Black, as is noted of those belonging to the Georges, wherewith y 3.82 Iohn Dudley Viscount Lisle, the Lords Saint Iohn and Parr were in∣vested, an. 35. H. 8. and in the Pictures of several Knights-Companions about that time (both painted in Oyl, and limned with Water Colours) the Ribbands of their Georges are visibly Black.

That small Chain, whereat hung the lesser George sent to Emanuel Duke of Sa∣voy, an. 1. & 2. Phil ••amp; Mar. was formed of z 3.83 twelve pieces of Gold, in every of which were set three small Diamonds; and of twelve other like pieces, wherein were three Rubies and twenty four Pearls.

It appears by a Letter sent from a 3.84 Sir Richard St. George Knight Clarenceux, and the Heralds of Arms, to Henry Earl of Holland, dated the 10. of Iuly 1627. b 3.85 that the Blue Ribband had some years before been added to the Ornaments of the Or∣der. And 'tis said c 3.86 that Robert Earl of ••ssex being in France, and observing the Jewels of the Order of St. Michael and St. Esprit, worn in Blue Ribbands, upon his return did occasion the altering those Ribbands, whereat the George hung, into that Colour: And I have seen the d 3.87 Picture of Queen Elizabeth drawn towards the end of her Reign, wherein was represented the Lesser George, hanging before her Breast at such a Blue Ribband.

It was not long e're this Colour grew into great estimation with the Soveraign and Knights-Companions; the rather, for that it was the ground of the Garter, and colour of the Mantle of the Order. And toward the * 3.88 later end of King Iames his Reign (because the Colour of the Ribband had not been peculiarly exprest in any Article of the Statutes, and the Blue or Sky Colour used for some years past) it was Decreed, e 3.89 That for the future it should always be of a Blue Co∣lour, and no other: f 3.90 nor in time of mourning for any of the Knights-Companions, of what Degree soever, should the Colour be changed.

The ordinary manner of wearing this Ribband in time of peace, was (till of late) about the neck, down to the middle of the Breast, where the lesser George hung; but now for the more conveniency of riding or action, the same is spread over the left shoulder, and brought under the right arm, where the Jewel hangs.

[illustration]

But where the Pictures of the Soveraign, or any of the Knights-Companions are drawn in Armour, there, even to this day, the George is represented, as fixed at a Gold Chain, instead of the Blue Ribband, and worn about the neck (not brought under the right arm) which also was so exhibited in the three pound pieces of Gold, stamped at Oxford by the command of his late Majesty of ever blessed memory King Charles the First, whereby he published to the world, that the true and just occasion of his taking up Arms in the late War, was to maintain the Protestant Religion, the Laws of the Land, and the Priviledge of Parliaments. And in like manner is the Gold Chain represented in a Medal of Charles Count Pa∣latine of the Rhyne, now senior Knight-Companion of this most Noble Order.

Among those rich and invaluable Jewels, and other choice Curiosities of his said late Majesty, which came to the hands of the Trustees appointed for sale of his Goods, there were several of these lesser Georges g 3.91 sold by them to the foresaid Thomas Beauchamp, the particulars whereof, how low they were valued, and for what sold, appears thus from the Book of Sales.

	Valued at	Sold for
A George containing 161 Diamonds, which came from the Countess of Leicester, and was discovered by Cornelius Holland.	60	00	00	71	02	00
A George cut in an Onix, with 41 Diamonds in the garnish.	35	00	00	37	00	00
A small George with a few Diamonds—	8	00	00	9	00	00
A George with 5 Rubies and 3 Diamonds, and II Diamonds in a Box.	10	00	00	11	00	00
A George cut in a Garnet—	7	00	00	8	00	00
Total—	120	00	00	136	00	00

The George which his said late Majesty wore at the time of his Martyrdom, was curiously cut in an Onix, set about with 21 large Table Diamonds, in the fashion of a Garter: On the back side of the George was the Picture of his Queen, rarely well limn'd set in a Cafe of Gold, the lid neatly enamel'd with Goldsmiths work, and surrounded with another Garter, adorned with a like number of equal sized Diamonds, as was the foreside. A Draught of this Jewel, in three parts, open and shut, we have exhibited to the Readers view, among the Ensigns of the Order, at the beginning of this Chapter.

Nor will it be unfitly here remembred, by what good fortune the present Sove∣raign's lesser George set with fair Diamonds was preserved, after the defeat given to the Scotch Forces at Worcester, an. 4. Car. 2.

Among the rest of his Attendants then disperst, h 3.92 Colonel Blague was one, who taking shelter at Blore-pipe House (within two miles of Eccleshall in Staffordshire) where one Mr. George Barlow then dwelt, delivered his Wife this George to secure. Within a week after Mr. Barlow himself carried to Robert Milward Esquire (now second Justice of the great Sessions of the County Palatine of Chester, one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal, and Son unto Sir Thomas Milward Knight, late Chief Justice of the said great Sessions, both persons of known loyalty, and great sufferers for his late Majesty) he being when a Prisoner to the Parliament, in the Garrison of Stafford; and by his means was it happily preserved and restored: for not long after he delivered it to Mr. Isaac Walton (a man well known, and as well beloved of all good men, and will be better known to posterity, by his in∣genious Pen, in the lives of Doctor Donne, Sir Henry Wotton, Mr. Richard Hooker, and Mr. George Herbert) to be given to Colonel Blague then Prisoner in the Tower; who considering it had already past so many dangers, was perswaded it could yet secure one hazardous attempt of his own, and thereupon leaving the Tower without leave taking, hasted the presentation of it to the present Soveraign's hand.

We shall hereunto subjoin this Observation: That other Princes in Christen∣dom

[illustration]

(besides the Soveraigns of the most Noble Order of the Garter) have assumed the bearing St. George encountring the Dragon, and in like posture (though not so anciently, nor upon the same account) as they: probably having chosen him Patron of their Countries or Families, as namely the Emperors of Russia, the Dukes of Mantua in Italy, and the Counts Mansfield in Germany, which will bet∣ter appear by the exhibits of some of their Seals and Coyns here.

The first is the Great Seal of Borice-Feodorwiche Emperor of Russia, affixed to his Letters sent to Queen Elizabeth, dated at his Imperial Palace of Mosko the 12. of Iune 1602. and 39. year of his Reign: A Translation of which was most courteously afforded me by Mr. Ia. Frese (Interpretor to the Russian Ambassa∣dors, sent over hither to his now Majesty, an. Dom. 1660.) and is as followeth.

By Gods providence, We the great Lord, Emperor, and great Duke Boreece Feo∣dorwiche of all Russia Self-upholder, of Wolodeemer, Mosko, Novograde, Emperor of Kazan, Emperor of Astracane, and Emperor of Seebeeria, Lord of Psokosske, great Duke of Smolenskee, Twerskee, Ugarskee, Permskee, Va∣ticekee, Bolgarskee and other; Lord and great Duke of Novagradia, the lower Countries, Cheringoskee, Rezanskee, Rososkee, Yaroslaveskee, Beloozerskee, Leeflandia, Udorskee, Obdorskee, Kondinskee, and Com∣mander of all the Northern parts, and Lord of all the Iverskee Countries, and Granziskee Empires, and of the Caberniskee Countries, Cherkaskee, Igorskee, and of many other Kingdoms, Lord and Conqueror.

We have likewise seen another of this Emperors great Seals, fixed to his Letters, bearing date the 31. day of May, an. Dom. 1594. which he also sent to Queen Elizabeth, and was presented to her at Richmond, the 14. of October fol∣lowing, by his Ambassador Evanowich: the Circumscription containing the same Stile and Titles above set down.

There is preserved in the Archives at Oxford, an Instrument containing Letters testimonial of this Emperor, given to Doctor Christopher Ritinger his chief Phy∣sician, the Seal whereof is Silver gilt, but differs in size and design from the for∣mer, and contains on the reverse the Figure of St. George and the Dragon only. A translation of the whole Instrument I have transcribed hither, as it was com∣municated to me by my worthy friend Mr. Thomas Hyde, the present Library-Keeper of that famous Vniversity, a Gentleman of eminent Learning, in all kinds, and especially in the Oriental Tongues.

By the great mercy of God, We, great Lord, Emperor and great Duke Bor∣rys Feodorwich of all Russia sole Commander, of Volodemersky, Mosco∣vesky, Novogorodsky, King of Cazansky, King of Astracansky, King of Sibersky, Lord of Vobsky, and great Duke of Smolensky, Twersky, Ugor∣sky, Permesky, Votsky, Bulgarsky, and many others, Lord and great Duke of Novogorod, Levelandsky, Udorsky, Obdorsky, Kondnisky, and all the Nor∣thern parts, Commander. Lord of Iverskyland, King of Grusinsky, Caber∣dinsky Country; Chercasky, and the Country of Iversky, and of many other Kingdoms Lord and Commander, together with our princely Son Pheodor Bur∣rissiwich of all Russia, do by these our princely Letters, given unto Doctor Chri∣stopher Ritinger Physician, Hungarian born, acknowledge his true, faithful, and willing service unto our Highness: in which his profession, We Lord, King and great Duke Burrys Feodorwich of all Russia, have sufficiently tryed his skill, on our princely person, which he carefully performed for the better preser∣vation of our health: and through Gods great mercy, by his diligent and faith∣ful service hath cured our Highness of a dangerous sickness. And therefore we Lord King and great Duke Borys Feodorwich of all Russia sole Commander, with our princely Son Pheodor Burryssiwich, in regard of his great learning and faithful service to us, have admitted him to be our Princely Doctor, to mi∣nister Physick, and attend on our royal person: to which end we have granted him our Letters, and hereby we testifie his sufficient knowledge and practice in

Physick, who hath by our selves well deserved, to publish and make known the same. And if the said Doctor Christopher shall repair to any other Princes, Countries, Emperors, Kings, Curfists, Arch-Dukes, or Dukes, to offer his service unto them, We do by these our princely Letters wheresoever they shall come, give true testimony on the said Doctor Christopher's behalf, to be of great learning, sufficient knowledge, well practised in Physick matters: as also in that profession, careful, diligent, and trusty to be credited, We having had suffi∣cient tryal of his faithful carriage, in all true and honest services towards us. These our Princely Letters, given in our great and chiefest Palace in the King∣dom of Mosco, in the year of the creation of the World 7109. and in the moneth of August.

The Style about the Seal.

By the great mercy of God, We great Lord, Emperor, and great Duke Borys Feodorwich of all Russia sole Commander, Lord and Governor of many other Countries and Kingdoms.

The third, is the great Seal of Alexeye Michailowiche, the present Emperor of Russia, wherewith was sealed the Letter sent to his now Majesty, an. Dom. 1660. by his Ambassadors, Duke Peter Semoenowiche Prosoroskee, Lord and Pos∣sessor of the Dukedom of Toole, and Evan Offonosyewiche Zelabuskee, Namestinck of Coormeskee. Which having obtained by the favour of Sir William Morice Knight and Baronet, late principal Secretary of State, we also here exhibit to publick view, with a translation of this Emperor's Style, rendred into English by the said Mr. Ia. Frese.

By Gods mercy, We the great Lord, Emperor, and great Duke Alexeye Mi∣chailowiche of all the great and lesser and white Russia Self-upholder, of Mos∣covia, Kneveskee, Wolodeemerskee and Novagardskee, Emperor of Ka∣zan, Emperor of Astracan, Emperor of Siberia, Lord of Pscosskee, and great Duke of Lettow, Smolenskee, Twerskee, Wolniskee, Podolskee, Ugarskee, Permskee, Waticekee, Bolgarskee, and others. Lord and great Duke of No∣vogradia, the lower Countries, Cheringoskee, Rezanskee, Polotskee, Ro∣stosskee, Yaroslasskee, Belozerskee, Udorskee, Obdorskee, Kandinskee, Weetepskee, Meestesloskee, and of all the Northern parts Commander. Lord of the Iverskee Countries, Cartalinskee, Groonsiskee, and Igerskee Empires, and of the Kabardinskee Countries, Cheringosskee, and Igorskee Dukedoms, and of many other Dukedoms Eastern, western and northern, from Father and Grandfather heir apparent Lord and Conqueror.

This representation of St. George and the Dragon we find assigned for Arms to Anne de Russie, Daughter to Iaroslaus King of Russia and Moscovia, married to Henry the First King of France, in the year of our Lord 1051. and thus blazoned. i 3.93 De Gueules, à un homme à Cheval, d' Argent, tenant une Lance en la main, qu'il darde en la gueule d'un Dragon renverse.

The Counts of Mansfield in Germany, have likewise frequently stamped on their Coyns, the Figure of St. George killing the Dragon: from which we have sin∣gled out one, bearing the name of St. George, and placed it under the Number IV.

In the last may be seen the Effigies of Vincentius Duke of Mantua and Montserat, a Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece, and on the Reverse thereof, St. George encountring the Dragon, in the manner generally worn by the Soveraign and Knights-Companions of this most Noble Order of the Garter.

SECT. X. When the Habit, or part of it, ought to be worn.

THere are several solemn days and occasions, on which the Soveraign and Knights-Companions of the Garter are enjoined to wear, either the whole Habit of the Order, or some part of it.

The more solemn, and which require a full conformity, as to wearing the whole Habit, that is, the Garter, Mantle, Surcoat, Hood, Collar, Great George, and Cap, are first, the high Festival of the Order (commonly called St. George's Feast) whether it be solemnized on the 22, 23, or 24. days of April annually, or any other days within the following year by Prorogation. And for this there is cleer Text, in all the Bodies and Exemplars of the k 3.94 Statutes; as also to the time how long they ought to be worn on every of those days, before the Soveraign or Knights-Companions put them off.

For first, it was Ordained, l 3.95 That the Knights-Companions should put on the whole Habit, on the Eve of St. George, before the Soveraign proceeded to the Chap∣pel, to hear Divine Service; and being so habited, should attend the Soveraign to the Chapterhouse, thence to the Chappel, and return with him back, continu∣ing in the same manner habited (as well such of them as should be minded to Sup, as those that should not) until after Supper; m 3.96 nor might they put off their Robes until the Soveraign or his Deputy had put off his, or declared it time for his or their so doing.

By the same third Article of the Statutes, the wearing of the whole Habit was also enjoined on the Feast day of St. George, both at their Proceeding in the morning to the Chapterhouse or Chappel, at their return to Dinner; from thence to the second Vespers, and back to Supper; as also till Supper should be ended, and until the Soveraign or his Lieutenant took leave of the rest of the Knights-Companions.

Secondly, it is manifest from King Henry the Eighth's n 3.97 Statutes, that the Eve the day of St. George, and morrow following, were appointed to be kept with solemn service, and holding of Chapters, wheresoever the Soveraign should then be, though the Grand Feast and Solemnity of St. George were prorogued, to some further time in the year: And therefore, when by reason of such Prorogation, the Knights-Companions do meet in any other place besides the Castle of Windesor, to attend the Soveraign for the observation of St. George's day only, they then are appointed to wear the whole Habit of the Order, from beginning of the first Even∣ing Service, until the last Evening Service on St. George's day.

Thirdly, on such other days of the year, whereon the Grand Feast is held by Prorogation; and during such part of the Eve, and day of the Feast, as is before appointed, when the said Feast is held on its proper day.

Fourthly, by absent Knights, whensoever the Grand Feast of St. George should be celebrated, and o 3.98 wheresoever they should at such time happen to reside or be p 3.99 if at liberty, and not under restraint) in like manner, as if then present with the Soveraign or his Deputy, in the place where he should celebrate the Feast. The time of wearing the whole Habit in this case, extends but to the end of the se∣cond Vespers, as in the second instance above.

Fifthly, in like manner are the Knights-Companions to wear the whole Habit of the Order, at the Feasts of Installation, I mean such of them as are appointed by the Soveraign to assist at that Ceremony; where, if it begin in the Evening, then are they not disrobe themselves, till after Supper; and being the next morning habited as before, then to proceed to the Chapterhouse or Chappel, and not put off their Robes till Dinner be ended.

The less solemn Occasions, are those which require wearing the Mantle, or Col∣lar of the Order only.

And they are, first, upon the r 3.100 morrow after the Grand Feast day, when the Soveraign and Knights-Companions proceed to the Chappel, and make their Of∣fering of Gold and Silver; for it then suffiseth that they put on the Mantle only: which (service being finished) they were wont to leave at the Chapterhouse door, as they went out of the Chappel.

Secondly, as often as s 3.101 Chapters are called, and in what place soever held, ei∣ther for Elections, or other Causes, as it shall please the Soveraign to name.

And also as often as it is requisite for the Soveraign, or any of the Knights-Companions, to t 3.102 enter into the Chappel of St. George at Windesor: and with refe∣rence hereunto was it Ordained; u 3.103 That every one of the Knights-Companions, should leave a Mantle at Windesor, to the end, that upon any sudden and unex∣pected occasion of access thither, there might be Robes found in readiness for the due observing the Statutes in this point, with all the Commands and Decrees of the Soveraign.

Its manifest that anciently (in pursuance of this Article) both the Soveraign and Knights-Companions left Mantles in the Vestry at Windesor, for such acciden∣tal Occasions: for in the Inventory of Ornaments belonging to the Chappel ta∣ken an. 8. Ric. 2. We find remaining at that time in the Vestry, a Mantle be∣longing to the Soveraign, another to Iohn Duke of Britain, a third to Iohn Hol∣land Earl of Huntingdon, another to Edmund Langley Earl of Cambridge, and one to Thomas Holland Earl of Kent, all of them then alive. And by a Decree past, at the Grand Feast, anno 1. H. 6. the w 3.104 Mantle of the young Soveraign was appoint∣ed to be left at Windesor, as the Statutes required. It is further to be noted, that this Article of the Statutes was confirmed by King Henry the Eighth's x 3.105 Statutes: by force whereof the Mantles of the Emperor y 3.106 Charles the Fifth, and Anna Duke of Montmorency Constable of France, were left in the custody of the Dean and Canons of Windesor. And heretofore, in the general Bill drawn up of things ne∣cessary to be prepared for Installation of a Knight-Companion, there were usually z 3.107 two Mantles set down, the use of the one being therein expresly mentioned to remain in the Colledge at Windesor, and the other for all other occasions else∣where.

These Mantles thus enjoined to be left in the Colledge for sudden chances, the owners living; were anciently committed to the Custody of the Black Rod, as we find it granted by * 3.108 Letters Patent to Iohn Athelbrig, with the grant of that Office, and fell after the death of the Owners, to the Dean and Canons of Windesor, being then reserved, either for publick use of the Knights-Companions, when they casually came to Windesor, or else sold, sometimes to the Heirs of the Deceased, or other Knights-Companions, who succeeded in the Order (as that of Charles the Fifth was to the Earl of Bedford, and that of the Constable of France lent to the Earl of Warwick, an. 7. Eliz.) which appears from the a 3.109 Ac∣counts of the Chanter of the Colledge, in the Reigns of King Henry the Fourth, King Henry the Fifth, King Henry the Eighth, Queen Elizabeth, and King Iames, who in all times answered the full benefit thereof to the Colledge; as b 3.110 being a certain and unquestionable due to the Dean and Canons; and this they have accordingly had and enjoyed.

And yet we find some of the Colledge made over bold with the Robe of Sigis∣mond the Emperor and c 3.111 sold it while he was yet alive: But the Archbishop of York (who, as Chancellor of England, was Visitor of the Colledge) upon a Visita∣tion made by him shortly after, viz. the 22. of February, anno 1431. d 3.112 kept the Mo∣ney from being distributed among those who had sold it, and reserved the divi∣dend to the Dean and Canons, who should happen to be of the Colledge at the time of that Emperors death: and withall commanded for the future, under pain of Excommunication, e 3.113 That no Dean and Canon should presume to withdraw or aliene any of the Knights-Companions Mantles, while he was alive, but the same as¦much as possible, should be well, decently, and faithfully kept and preserved.

But we are informed, that the before mentioned Statute was altered f 3.114 anno 9. Eliz. and a new one made to this effect, g 3.115 That the Knights-Companions should be bound by Oath, to take care by their Wills, that after their decease, all the Ornaments

which they had received, should be restored; the Robes to the Colledge, and the Jewels to the Soveraign that gave them.

We come, in the last place, to the times of wearing the Collar of the Order, with the Great George thereunto appendant, which is not only enjoined to be worn (as part of the Habit) at the Grand Feasts, and Feasts of Installation, but also at other times, when not any of the rest of the Habit (saving the Garter) is appointed to be worn, as in special, at the h 3.116 principal and solemn Feasts of the year: and other Feast days, to which a particular Order in Chapter, anno. 4. Eliz. thus directs.

• The Holy days, and Sundays, within the twelve days.
• Saint Matthias day.
• Holy days in Easter week.
• Saint Marks day.
• Saint Philip and Iacobs day.
• Holy days in Whitson week.
• The Feast days of
  • St. Peter.
  • St. Iames.
  • St. Bartholomew.
  • St. Matthew.
  • St. Luke.
  • St. Simon and Iude.
  • St. Andrew, and
  • St. Thomas.

Besides these, the Soveraigns and Knights-Companions have been accustomed to wear this Noble Ensign, upon the Aniversary of the Soveraign's Coronation, of the Gunpowder Treason, and now lately, on the present Soveraign's Birth day. So also heretofore, upon some occasional Ceremonies, not relative to the Order; as when a Knight-Companion hath been created into Titles of Dignity and Honor, he had the i 3.117 Collar of the Garter added to his Investiture, as appears in the case of Henry Stafford, created Earl of Wiltshire, an••o 1. H. 8. And at a Chapter held the twenty second of May 1622. it was Ordained, k 3.118 That such Knights-Com∣panions of this most Noble Order, as should afterwards assist at the Funeral of any Knight-Companion, should wear the Collar apert, at the said Funeral: and it was▪ so observed by the Dukes of Ormond and Richmond, the Earls of Manchester and Sandwich, at the solemn Funeral of his Grace George late Duke of Albemarle.

Howbeit, the custom is otherwise, as to wearing the Garter, that principal Ensign of the Order; for though it be enjoined to be worn, especially at the l 3.119 Grand Feast, and all times of entring into St. George's Chappel, or holding of Chapters; yet doth not this imply, that it may be left off, at all other times as may the rest of the Habit: for indeed it ought daily to be worn, both by the Soveraign and Knights-Companions. And therefore was it Decreed, even at the Institution of the Order: m 3.120 That if any of the Knights-Companions should in publick be found without his Garter, and that the same was not buckled about his Leg, in deoent and usual manner; upon challenge thereof, he should presently pay, a n 3.121 Noble to the Dean and Colledge of Windesor. By King Henry the Eighth's Statutes, the Fine was raised to a o 3.122 Mark: the same to be paid forthwith after challenge made, by any of the five Officers of the Order, or as before, by the Dean of Windesor; beside which p 3.123 Fine, the Knight lies liable to a q 3.124 check.

But the Article in the Statutes of Institution being pen'd too strictly, and with∣out any exception, the several occasions of military or necessary affairs discover∣ing the inconvenience; King Henry the Fifth admitted of a qualification, and in case of riding with Boots, Ordained, That it might suffice, if the Knight-Com∣panion wore some r 3.125 Ribband or Silk Lace, to represent the Garter: nevertheless in this very Article there is a Proviso added, That no Knight-Companion should enter into Chapter, without his Garter buckled about the Leg.

To conclude, King Henry the Eighth's Statutes provide, that the Gold Chain, whereat the Lesser George (in that Age) hung, should be worn s 3.126 all other days of the year, except the t 3.127 principal and solemn Feasts, whereon the Great Collar was Ordained to be worn, and except in time of War, Sickness, or long Voyage; in any of which cases, it should suffice the Knight-Companion concern'd, to wear only a Silk Lace or Ribband, with the Image of St. George thereat: and the Blue Rib∣band, having since succeeded in place of the Gold Chain, the Injunction of this Statute, extends to it in all particulars.

Notes

• a 1.1

  Lib. N. p. 214.
• b 1.2

  Ed. 3. Stat. Art. 27.
• c 1.3

  Regist. Chart▪ f. 24.a.
• d 1.4

  Lib. N. p. 6••
• e 1.5

  From the Earls of Haps∣burg in Ger∣many, Dugd▪ Antiq. of Warr. p. 57.
• f 1.6

  Art. 27.
• g 1.7

  Lib. N. p. 168.
• h 1.8

  Lib. N. p. 205.
• i 1.9

  Lib. N. p. 205.
• k 1.10

  MS. in Of∣fic. Arm. [M. 17.] p. 26. b.
• l 1.11

  MS. in Of∣fic. Arm. [M. 17.] p. 26. b.
• m 1.12

  MS. in Of∣fic. Arm. [M. 17.] p. 26. b.
• n 1.13

  Ibid. p. 27.
• o 1.14

  Ibid. p. 27.
• p 1.15

  Lib. N. p. 196.
• q 1.16

  Ibid. p. 215.
• r 1.17

  Ibid.
• s 1.18

  Lib. N. p. 21••.
• t 1.19

  Ibid. 229.
• u 1.20

  Pag. 214.
• w 1.21

  Ib. p. 196.
• x 1.22

  Lib. R. p. 120.
• y 1.23

  E. 3. H. 5. Stat. Art. 28
• z 1.24

  Art. 31.
• * 1.25

  Lib. C. p. 6.
• a 1.26

  Lib. R. p. 119. & 122.
• b 1.27

  Lib. N. p. 302.
• c 1.28

  Ib. p. 304.
• d 1.29

  Ib. p. 306.
• e 1.30

  Lib. C. p. 6.
• f 1.31

  Ibid.
• g 1.32

  Ib. p. 7.
• h 1.33

  Ibid.
• i 1.34

  Ibid. p. 12.
• k 1.35

  Lib. C. p. 5••.
• l 1.36

  Lib. C. p. 5••.
• m 1.37

  Ibid. p. 173.
• n 1.38

  Ibid. p. 173.
• * 2.1

  Ex Collect. Guil. le Neve mil. ••uper Cla••▪ R. Armor.
• o 2.2

  Lib. C. p. 11. & 12.
• p 2.3

  Ib. p. 12. & 13.
• q 2.4

  Ib. p. 12. & 13.
• r 2.5

  Ib. p. 14.
• s 2.6

  Ib. p. 14.
• a 2.7

  Lib. R. p. 6••.
• b 2.8

  Ibid. p. 67.
• d 2.9

  Ib. p. 68.
• e 2.10

  Sir Thomas Rowes Iournal p. 8.
• f 2.11

  Ibid. p. 9.
• g 2.12

  Lib. R. p. 118.
• h 2.13

  Rowes Iournal, p. 18.
• i 2.14

  Rowes Iournal, p. 18.
• k 2.15

  Ibid. p. 19.
• l 2.16

  Ibid.
• m 2.17

  Ibid. p. 21.
• n 2.18

  Ibid.
• o 2.19

  Ibid. p. 31.
• p 2.20

  Ibid. p. 31.
• q 2.21

  Ibid. p. 36.
• * 2.22

  Registrum Or∣dinis Char∣taceum.
• e 2.23

  Tho. Frithin suo Canoni∣cor. Catal.
• f 2.24

  Tho. Frithin suo Canoni∣cor. Catal.
• g 2.25

  Tho. Frithin suo Canoni∣cor. Catal.
• h 2.26

  Lib. N. p. 245.
• i 2.27

  Ex Catalog. praed.
• k 2.28

  Lib. N. p. 265.
• l 2.29

  Godwins Ca∣tal. of Bishops, p. 543.
• m 2.30

  Lib. N. p. 168.
• n 2.31

  Anno 22. •• 7. vide Lib. N. p. 181.
• o 2.32

  Lib. N. p. 27.
• n 2.33

  Ibid. p. 38.
• o 2.34

  Pag. 22. & 23.
• p 2.35

  Lib. N. p. 235.
• q 2.36

  Chap. 9. Sect. 15.
• r 2.37

  E. 3. Stat. Art. 34.
• s 2.38

  Ord. Stat. in Bibl. Hatton. Art. 36.
• t 2.39

  E. 3. Stat Art. 34. H. 5. Stat. Art. 36.
• u 2.40

  Lib. N. p. 235.
• w 2.41

  Lib. R. p. 13.
• x 2.42

  Lib. Carol. p. 76.
• y 2.43

  Lib. Carol. p. 76.
• z 2.44

  Lib. N. p. 234.
• a 2.45

  Ibid. p. 237.
• b 2.46

  Lib. R. p. 16.
• c 2.47

  Ibid. p. 13.
• d 2.48

  Ibid. p. 13.
• * 2.49

  Liber Coeruleus.
• * 2.50

  Liber Rubeus.
• * 2.51

  Liber Caroli∣nus.
• e 2.52

  Lib. Carol. p. 30.
• c 2.53

  Angl. H••••t. l. 19. p 37••.
• d 2.54

  Ex Collect. Will le Neve Eq. Aut. nupe: Clarencieux R. Armorum.
• e 2.55

  Ex Collect. Aug. Vincent nuper Winde∣sor ••eraldi.
• f 2.56

  MS. fol. pen. Georg. Owen, nuper Yo••k He∣rald. p. 154.
• g 2.57

  Ib. p. 229.
• h 2.58

  Ib. p. 299.
• * 2.59

  See the Trustees Book of Sales.
• i 2.60

  Ex relatio∣ne praed. Tho. Beau∣champ.
• k 2.61

  Ex relatio∣ne praed. Tho. Beau∣champ.
• l 2.62

  Po••••d. V••gi••. Angl. Hist. l 1••. p. 378.
• m 2.63

  Lib. N. p. 5••▪
• n 2.64

  Ex vetust•• Codice de Epi∣s••••p••s & P••••∣ribus Dunel∣mens. Ecclesis. vide Tho. Wal∣singh. sub anno 1361.
• o 2.65

  Ex Collect. Silae Tay∣lour gen. lib. D. f. 129. b.
• p 2.66

  Ex Collect. Silae Tay∣lour gen. lib. D. f. 129. b.
• q 2.67

  See the In∣script. in Mr. Dugdales Hi∣story of St. Pauls Cathe∣dral, p. 103. & Placita coram Rege an. ••. H. •• rot. 46. Heres.
• r 2.68

  MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• s 2.69

  MS. in Offic. A••m. [I. 3.] f 8 b. vide lib. I. 11. in ead. Offic. f. 84.
• t 2.70

  MS. in Offic. praed. [I. 3.] f. 32.
• u 2.71

  Ibid. f. 2.
• w 2.72

  Ibid. f. 2.
• x 2.73

  Aug. Vin∣cents discove∣ry of Errors in Brooks Nobi∣lity, p. 356.
• y 2.74

  Ex praef. MS. [I. 3.] fol. 103.
• z 2.75

  MS. in ead. Offic. [I. 11.] f. 67.b.
• a 2.76

  MS. [I. 3.] f. 10.
• b 2.77

  18 & 19. Aug. 1557. MS. [I. 15.] in ead. Offic. f. 246.b.
• c 2.78

  Ibid.
• d 2.79

  Ib. f. 284.b.
• e 2.80

  MS. [I. 11.] f. 112.
• f 2.81

  Lib. l. 13 f. 8.
• g 2.82

  l. 14. f. 7.
• h 2.83

  Speeds Chr••n. f. 765.
• i 2.84

  Interdum Pollice gesta∣re. lib. N. p. 15.
• k 2.85

  Pat. 17. H. 7. pars 2. m. 1. vide porro MS. Offic. Arm. [G. 15.]
• l 2.86

  Ibid. See also Glovers Ordinary, p. 419.
• m 2.87

  Panciroll. lib. 1. rerum memorab. de∣perdit. Tit. ••4.
• n 2.88

  Car. Sigonius de Iadiciis, l. 3. c. 17 p. 459.
• o 2.89

  In Vit•• Ro∣mali.
• p 2.90

  Panci••••il. eod. lib. Tit. 43.
• q 2.91

  Eq. Aur. An∣glo. Wittemb. p. 137.
• r 2.92

  Ed. 3. Stat. Art. 3.9.11.16.20 &c.
• * 2.93

  1. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Name.
• s 2.94

  Lib. 5. c. 32. vide etiam Rom. Hist. An∣thologia, p. 154. Trabea qun{que} Toga erat, Panciroll. Rer. memor. deperd••••. L. 1. Tit. 45.
• t 2.95

  Lib. N. p. 30.31.310.
• u 2.96

  Lib. R p. 120.
• w 2.97

  Lib. N p. 209.
• x 2.98

  Ib. p. 317.
• * 2.99

  2. Materials.
• y 2.100

  Ex Rotul. Comp•••• Io. Cok•• Cler. mag. Gardrob. ab an. 21. ad 23. E 3. m. 8. penes Re∣mem. Regu in S••accario.
• z 2.101

  Ed. 3.Stat. Art. 20. vide H. 5. Stat. Art. 20.
• a 2.102

  Ex lib. vocat. Co••om, in Offic. mag. Gardrob. f. 47. & 52.
• b 2.103

  Ibid f. 92.
• c 2.104

  Lib. N. p. 91.
• d 2.105

  Ed. 3. Stat. Art. 11.H. 5. Stat. Art. 11.
• * 2.106

  3. Colour.
• e 2.107

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp••••. Io. Coke m. 8.
• g 2.108

  De Velvet blodio, vid. lib. praed. vocat. C••∣tom. f. 47.54.
• i 2.109

  Ex Coll. Iac. Ware Eq. Aur.
• k 2.110

  Hen. 8. En∣glish Statutes Art. 21.
• l 2.111

  Autogr. in Bibl. Hatton.
• m 2.112

  Utu••tur Pallio coeru∣leo. Angl Hist. l. 19 p. 378.
• n 2.113

  Accipe Chla∣mydem hanc coeli••i coloris. lib. N p. 310.
• o 2.114

  Ex lib. Warr. Dorm. temp. H. 8. E. 6. Ph. & Mar. & ••liz. Reg. in Offic. mag. Gardrob. pag. 364.
• p 2.115

  Ex lib. Warr. particular. temp. Eliz. R. in Offic. praed. p. 85.
• q 2.116

  Ib. p. 201.
• r 2.117

  Ib. p. 17.
• s 2.118

  Ex lib. 4. in Offic. praed. p. 446.
• t 2.119

  Ib. p. 157.
• u 2.120

  MS. fol. penes praef. Geo. Owen, York fol. 299.
• w 2.121

  Erh. Cellius in Eq. Aur. Anglo. Wirtemb. pag. 135.
• x 2.122

  Ex Autogr. penes Iac. Pal∣mer Eq. Aur. nuper Cancell. hujus Ord.
• y 2.123

  3. Ian. 1637.
• * 2.124

  4. Quantity.
• a 2.125

  Ex praed. Rot. Camp. Io. Coke, m. 8.
• b 2.126

  Ex lib. praef. vocat. Cotom. f. 52.
• c 2.127

  Ex lib. 4. in Offic. mag. Gard. p. 446.
• d 2.128

  MS. fol. penes Geo. Owen nuper York Heraldi. p. 299.
• e 2.129

  Ex lib. Warr. particular temp. Eliz. R. in Offic. mag. Gardrob. p. 201.
• * 2.130

  5. Trimming.
• f 2.131

  Ex eod. lib. voc. Cot••m. f. 43.47.12.92.96. b & 99.
• g 2.132

  Ib. f. ••2. b. Vid. Hist. Th••. de la Mar•• p. 156. b. MS.
• h 2.133

  Ib. f. ••2. b. Vid. Hist. Th••. de la Mar•• p. 156. b. MS.
• i 2.134

  Ex ••od lib. f. 47.92. & 96 b
• k 2.135

  Ex vet. per∣gam Cod. in Of∣fic. mag. Gard. p. 47.
• l 2.136

  Lab. Warr. D••rm. temp. H. 8. &c. f. 264
• m 2.137

  Ex lib. praed. voc. C••tom. f. 52 b. & 96. b.
• n 2.138

  Ex Collect. praef. Aug. Vin∣cent.
• o 2.139

  Ex eod. lib. voc. Cotom loco nuper cit
• p 2.140

  Ex lib. terti•• in praed. Offic. p. 17.
• q 2.141

  Panciroll. li••. 1. ver. deperdit. Tit. 44.
• r 2.142

  Rosin. an∣tiq. Rom. l. 5. c. 33.
• s 2.143

  Rosin. an∣tiq. Rom. l. 5. c. 33.
• t 2.144

  Quintil••. ••. 11.
• u 2.145

  Rosin. loco cit. Baisius de re Vestiar. p. 212.
• w 2.146

  Rosin. loco cit. Baisius de re Vestiar. p. 212.
• x 2.147

  Liberationes dicuntur res necessariae quae vel ex debito, vel honori gratiâ, Ma∣gi••••ratui, Hospitibus, seu Peregrinantibus ministrantur. Spelman. Glossar. verbo Li∣beratio.
• * 2.148

  1. Its Name.
• y 2.149

  Ex Rot. Com∣pot. Iohan. Newbury, an. 34. E. 3. m. 1. penes R••mem. Re∣gis in Scaccario, & Rot. Compot. Hen. de Snaith, an. 37. E. 3. m. 3. Vide porro Rot. Com∣pot. Alani de Stoke an. 7. R. 2. m. 9. & 15. & lib Comp. de liberat. Pannorum, &c. temp. R. 2. in Offic. mag. Gardrob. f. 155.167.173.184.194.
• z 2.150

  Rot. Compot. Iohan Coke, ab anno 21. ad annum 23. E. 3. m. 8. & lib. R. p. 120.
• a 2.151

  MS. in Offic. Armor. [L. 1.] f. 19.
• b 2.152

  Sir Tho. Rowes Iournal. p. 35.
• d 2.153

  Ex Lib. praed. vocat. Cotom.
• e 2.154

  Ex Autogr. penes Iac. Ware Eq. Aur
• f 2.155

  Ex vet, MS. penes praef. Will. le Neve Eq. Aur. f. 295.
• * 2.156

  2. Materials.
• h 2.157

  Ex praef. Rot. Comp. Io. Coke, m. 8. vide etiam lib. Comp. de Liberat. pannor. temp. R. 2. f. 124.155.167.173.184. &c.
• i 2.158

  Ex lib. vocat. Cotom. f. 47. & 92.
• k 2.159

  Ex vet. per∣gam. Cod. in Of∣fic. mag. Gard∣rob. p. 12.
• * 2.160

  3. Colour
• l 2.161

  Ex pread. Rot. Compot. Io Coke. m. 8.
• m 2.162

  Ex rot. Io. Newbury, m. 13.
• n 2.163

  Ibid. m 1.
• o 2.164

  Ibid. m. 1.
• p 2.165

  Pestilentia minor.
• r 2.166

  Ex praef. Rot. Comp••t Hen. de Snaith, m. 3.
• s 2.167

  Ex praed. R••t. Comp. Alani de St••ke, m. 15.
• t 2.168

  Ib. m. 9.
• u 2.169

  De Panno Blank long. Videsis lib. Camp de Libe∣rat Panror. & tem•• R. 2. f. 155. & 167.
• w 2.170

  Ib. f. 155. & 173. b.
• x 2.171

  MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• y 2.172

  Ex lib praed. vocat. Cotom. f. 47.
• z 2.173

  Ib. f. 92.
• a 2.174

  Ib. f. 51.
• b 2.175

  Ib. f. 71. b.
• c 2.176

  Ex Autogr. penes Iac. War•• Eq. Aut.
• * 2.177

  4. Quantity.
• d 2.178

  Ex Rot. Compos. I••. Newbury. m. 1.
• e 2.179

  Ex rot. Compos. I••. Newbury. m. 1.
• f 2.180

  Ibid. m. 13.
• g 2.181

  Ex lib. MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• h 2.182

  Ex lib. MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• i 2.183

  Ex lib. MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• l 2.184

  Ex vet. per∣gam. Cod. fol. in Offic. mag. Gardrob. f. 1••.
• * 2.185

  5. Trimming.
• n 2.186

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Io. Coke m. 8.
• o 2.187

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Io. Coke m. 8.
• p 2.188

  Lib. comp. de Libera Pannor. &c. temp. R. 2. f. 155.173.184: & Ret. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 15.
• q 2.189

  Lib. comp. de Libera Pannor. &c. temp. R. 2. f. 155.173.184: & Ret. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 15.
• r 2.190

  MS. in Bibl. Hatton.
• s 2.191

  Ex praed. lib. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Cotom. f 52. b.
• t 2.192

  Ib. f. 92.
• u 2.193

  E▪ praef Rot. Compot. Io. Newbury m. 13. & Lib. Comp. de liberat. Pan∣••••, remp. R. 2. f. 129 vid•• por∣ro lib. praed. vo∣cat Cotom. f. 51 b. & f. 104.
• w 2.194

  Ex eod. R••t. Comp Io. New∣bury m. 1. & Rot. Comp. praef. H S••ith m. 3. & Rot. Comp. praed. Al. de Stoke m. 9.
• x 2.195

  Ex eod. lib. Comp. de liberat. Pan∣nor f. 167.173. & 184.
• y 2.196

  Ex eod. lib. Comp. de liberat. Pan∣nor f. 167.173. & 184.
• z 2.197

  MS in Bibl. Hatton.
• a 2.198

  Ex vet. per∣gun. Codic. in Offic. mag. Gardr. p. 12.
• b 2.199

  Pag. 318.
• c 2.200

  Vide infra Chap. 26.
• d 2.201

  Dugdales Antiq. of War∣wick••h. p. 121.
• e 2.202

  Art. 3.
• f 2.203

  Pag. 184.
• g 2.204

  Pag. 19••.
• h 2.205

  Chap. 20.
• i 2.206

  Lib. R. p. 146▪
• k 2.207

  MS. penes Edw. Fancon∣bridge gen.
• * 2.208

  Lib. R. p. 29.
• * 3.1

  Ex Collect. Praef. Will. le Neve.
• m 3.2

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• n 3.3

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• o 3.4

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• p 3.5

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• q 3.6

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• r 3.7

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• s 3.8

  Ex praed. Rot. Comp. Alani de Stoke m. 9.
• t 3.9

  Ibid. m. 1••.
• u 3.10

  Ibid. m. 1••.
• w 3.11

  Ibid. m. 1••.
• x 3.12

  Ibid. m. 1••.
• y 3.13

  Lib. Comp. de Liberat. Pannor. temp. Ric. 2. in Offic. praed. f. 167.
• z 3.14

  Lib. Comp. de Liberat. Pannor. temp. Ric. 2. in Offic. praed. f. 167.
• a 3.15

  Ibid. f. 184.
• b 3.16

  Ib. f. 173.
• d 3.17

  Ex Collect. Guil. le. Neve Eq Aur. nuper Clarenc.
• e 3.18

  MS. penes Hen. St. George Ar. Richmond Herald.
• f 3.19

  Ex praef. lib. vocat. C••••om. f. 92.
• g 3.20

  Sir Iames Palmers large Iour∣nal, p. 16.
• h 3.21

  Sir Iames Palmers large Iour∣nal, p. 16.
• i 3.22

  Sir Iames Palmers large Iour∣nal, p. 16.
• k 3.23

  See his Iournal pro anno 1639. p. 59.
• l 3.24

  See his Iournal pro anno 1639. p. 59.
• m 3.25

  See his Iournal pro anno 1639. p. 59.
• n 3.26

  •• Gen. 41. v. 42.
• o 3.27

  Athan Kir∣cher. Oedip. Tom. 3. p. 80.
• p 3.28

  Liv. l. 7. c. 10.
• q 3.29

  Gell l. 4. c. 14.
• r 3.30

  L••••o ••itato.
• s 3.31

  F••uv. Vrs••••. de Familiis Romanor. p 152.
• t 3.32

  Fasti l. 1.
• * 3.33

  Flor. Epit. L. 54.
• u 3.34

  Dan. c. 5. ••. ••.
• w 3.35

  Such were the Coronae, Armillae, Ha∣stae, Phalerae, Vexilla, &c.
• x 3.36

  Pag. 358, Inscr 2. p. 391. Inscr. 4. p. 443. Inscr. 2. p. 1102 Inscr. 4.
• * 3.37

  Pag. 429, Inscr. 1.
• y 3.38

  Fr. Mennen. Delic. Equest. p. 46.
• a 3.39

  Hen. 8. Stat. Art. 38.
• b 3.40

  Ex Rela∣tione Tho. Beauchamp gen.
• c 3.41

  Ex Rela∣tione Tho. Beauchamp gen.
• d 3.42

  Ex Rela∣tione Tho. Beauchamp gen.
• * 3.43

  Inventory Book of the late Kings Goods, f••l. 36.a.
• * 3.44

  Fol. 37.
• * 3.45

  Fol. 40. ••. ••.
• * 3.46

  Ibid. f. 41.
• e 3.47

  Art. 38.
• f 3.48

  Art. 38.
• g 3.49

  Ibid.
• * 3.50

  Ibid.
• h 3.51

  Propriam Or∣dini•• Togam Trabeam Hu∣merale ac Col∣lare statim induit. p. ••84.
• i 3.52

  MS. in Of∣ic. Arm. [L. 12.] f. 27.
• k 3.53

  MS. in Of∣ic. Arm. [L. 12.] f. 27.
• l 3.54

  Penes Arthur. Com. Anglesey.
• m 3.55

  In Biblioth. Ha••••on.
• n 3.56

  Lib. N p. 202.
• o 3.57

  Art. 38.
• p 3.58

  Ibid. p. 209.
• q 3.59

  Sigilla Co∣mit. Flandria. p. 116.
• r 3.60

  Tom. 2. p. 98.
• s 3.61

  Art. 37.
• t 3.62

  Sillage Nu∣mis. elegantic▪ ••um. p. 62.
• d 3.63

  Ibid. p. 27••.
• e 3.64

  Ib. p. 4••.
• f 3.65

  Sigilla Com. Fland. p. 95.
• g 3.66

  Ibid. p. 107.
• h 3.67

  Histor. de Di∣vis ••am vet. quam novi Te∣stamenti. Edi∣ta Basiliae, an. 1557. p. 258.
• i 3.68

  Videsis Baro∣nii Annal. ad annum Chri∣sti 30••. ne••∣non Surium, Tom. 3. ad di∣em 31. Mait.
• k 3.69

  MS▪ in Bib∣lioth. Coton.
• l 3.70

  MS.
• m 3.71

  Pag. 350.
• n 3.72

  Titles of Ho∣nor, p. 835.
• o 3.73

  Walsingh. Ia•• anno 1400.
• p 3.74

  Cambd. Brit. p. 128.
• q 3.75

  Titles of Ho∣nor, p. 836.
• r 3.76

  Anno 24. H. 8. cap. 13.
• s 3.77

  Theatre d' Honn. ••. 9. c. 2.
• t 3.78

  Ibid.
• u 3.79

  Camb. Re∣mains, p. 1••3. Edit. an. 1639.
• w 3.80

  Lib. N. p. 212.
• x 3.81

  MS. fol. penes. praef. G. Owen. p. 154.
• y 3.82

  Ex Collect. praef W••le Neve. Eq. A••••.
• z 3.83

  Ex. Collect. praef W••le Neve. Eq. A••••.
• a 3.84

  MS. in Of∣fic Armor. [L. 2.] p. 2.
• b 3.85

  MS. in Of∣fic Armor. [L. 2.] p. 2.
• c 3.86

  Ex relatione Will. Dugdale Ar. No••••oy.
• d 3.87

  Penes Erasm. Moyse nuper de To••••enham in Com. Mid. Ar.
• * 3.88

  22. May an. regni sui 20.
• e 3.89

  Lib. R. p. 12.
• f 3.90

  Lib. R. p. 12.
• g 3.91

  15. Oct. 1651.
• h 3.92

  Ex relatione Geo. Barlow gen. 11. I••nii 1660. ac Roberti Milward ar. & Isaaci Wal∣ton gen.
• i 3.93

  S. Marthe Hist. Geneolog. de la Maison de France. Tom. 1. l. 12. c. 4. p. 453.
• k 3.94

  Art. 3▪
• l 3.95

  Art. 3▪
• m 3.96

  Ord. Stat. in Lib. N. Art. 3.
• n 3.97

  Art. ••.
• o 3.98

  E. 3. H. 4. Stat. Art. 11. H. 8. Stat. Art. ••.
• p 3.99

  Ord. Stat. in Lib. N. Art. 9.
• r 3.100

  •• 8. Stat. Art. 12.
• s 3.101

  E. 3. H. 5. S••at. Art. 3.
• t 3.102

  Ed. 3. Stat. Art. 16.
• u 3.103

  E. 3. Stat. Art. 1••. H. 5. Stat. Art. 15.
• w 3.104

  Lib. N. p. 75.
• x 3.105

  Art. 15.
• y 3.106

  Ex. Autogr. p••nes Christ. W••en nuper hu∣jus Ord. Regist.
• z 3.107

  MS. in Bib∣li••b. Coton [sub effigie Iu∣lii F. 11. vide Collect. Aug. Vincent.
• * 3.108

  Pat. 1. H. 5. pars. 3. m. 18.
• a 3.109

  Ex. Collect. G. Evans modo unius Ca∣••••nic Colleg. Windesor.
• b 3.110

  Ex. Collect. G. Evans modo unius Ca∣••••nic Colleg. Windesor.
• c 3.111

  Videsis In∣junct. Ebo∣rac. Archiep. Art. 19.
• d 3.112

  Videsis In∣junct. Ebo∣rac. Archiep. Art. 19.
• e 3.113

  Ibid.
• f 3.114

  Ex. Autogr. per Sacra∣ment. praef. D. Christ. Wren at∣testat. 12. Mar. 1651.
• g 3.115

  Ex. Autogr. per Sacra∣ment. praef. D. Christ. Wren at∣testat. 12. Mar. 1651.
• h 3.116

  H. 8. Stat. Art. 38.
• i 3.117

  MS. in Offic. Armor. [L. 12, f. 27.]
• k 3.118

  Lib. R. p. 13.
• l 3.119

  Ed. 3. Stat. Art. 3.
• m 3.120

  Ibid. Art. 12. & H. 5. Stat. eod. Art.
• n 3.121

  Ibid. Art. 12. & H. 5. Stat. eod. Art.
• o 3.122

  Art. 10.
• p 3.123

  Art. 10.
• q 3.124

  Ord. Stat. in Lib. N. Art. 10.
• r 3.125

  H. 5. Stat. Art. 12. & H. ••. Stat. Art. 10.
• s 3.126

  Art. 38.
• t 3.127

  Art. 38.