Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

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Title
Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
Publication
London :: Printed by F. K[ingston] R. Y[oung] and I. L[egatt] for George Latham,
1637.
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"Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A17832.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 5, 2025.

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Page 183

[ A]

DANMONII.

[ B] THat Region, which according to the Geographers, is the first of all Britaine, and growing straiter still and nar∣rower, shooteth out farthest into the West, and hath on the North side the Severne-Sea; on the South the Bri∣tish, and on the West, the Vergivian or Westerne Oce∣an, beating upon it; was in ancient time inhabited by those Britaines, whom Solinus called, DVNMONII, Ptolomee, DAMNONII, or (as we find in some other copies,) more truely DANMONII. Which name, [ C] if it bee not derived from those ever-continuing mines of tinne in this tract, which the Britans terme Moina; may seeme to come of the dwelling there under hils. For, their habitation all over this Country is some∣what low, and in valleys: which manner of dwelling is called in the * 1.1 Bri∣tish tongue Dan-munith: in which sense also the Province next adjoy∣ning, in like respect is at this day named by the * 1.2 Britans Duffneint, that is to say,* 1.3 Low valleys. Now whether the OSTIDAMNII, called also OSTAEI, and OSTIONES, of whom Strabo maketh mention out of Pithaeas of Mar∣files, [ D] be our Danmonij, I wish the studious searchers of Antiquity would weigh with themselves, and examine somewhat more diligently. For, sea∣ted they were, by their report, in the farthest parts of Europe, toward the West Ocean over against Spaine, not farre from the Isle Vxantissa, now called Vshant, Which particulars every one doe very well, and in each point agree unto this Region of our Danmonij. And seeing that those Ostiones be called by Artemidorus COSSINI, as Stephanus in his Cities [ E] seemeth to note, I wish likewise they would consider (because these people are termed also Corini) whether in stead of COSSINI,* 1.4 we are not to read CORINI: For, we read Fusij for Furij, and Valesij for Valerij. And surely, the Geographers have not so much as a glimps where to seeke these Ostidamnij and Cossini, by the westerne Sea, if they be hence excluded. But the Country of this nation is at this day divided into two parts, knowne by later names of Cornwall and Denshire, whereof wee will speake in order.

CORNWALL.

[ F]

COrnwall, which also by later Writers is called Cornubia in Latin, of all Britaine doth beare most Westward, and is inhabited by that remnant of Britans, which Marinus Scotus calleth Occidentales Britones, that is, Britaines of the West parts, who in the British tongue (for as yet they have not lost their ancient language) name it Kernaw, because it waxeth

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smaller and smaller in manner of an horne, and runneth forth into the Sea with little [ A] promontories, as they were hornes, on every side: For the Britaines call an horne, [Corn] and hornes [Kern,* 1.5] in the plurall number: although others would have Cornwall to take the name of one Corineus, I know not what Companion of Brutus, and doe call it Corinea, according to this verse of a fabulous Poet;

Pars Corinea datur Corinaeo, de duce nomen Patria, de{que} viro gens Corinensis habet. To Captaine Corineus, part was given, to hold by right: Of him both coast Corinea, and people Cornish height.

But, no strange matter it is (if a man search Antiquities) for many places to have [ B] their denominations given them of such kind of scite as this. In Crete and * 1.6 Taurica Chersonessus, there bee promontories termed, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 that is, Rams Foreheads, be∣cause they shoote forth into the sea, after the fashion of Rams hornes. Semblably, Cyprus was of the Greekes in old time, called Cerastis, for that it butteth on the sea with promontories bearing out like hornes, so that it is no marvell, if the coast bee called Kernaw, and Corn, crookening inward as it doth, like unto an horne, and having divers smal capes and points sticking out, as it were hornes. Whereupon, when in the heat of the Saxons warre, many Britans retired themselves into this tract, trusting to the naturall strength of the place; for, they knew that the waies by land were hard enough to bee passed through by reason of mountaines, and crossed in divers places [ C] with armes of the Sea; that sailing likewise there, was combersome, because the pla∣ces were unknowne: the Saxon being Conquerour, who called all forraine things, and aliens or strangers, in their language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, named the Inhabitants hereof 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Hereof sprang the Latin name Cornwallia, and in the la∣ter age Cornubia, and in some writers Occidua Wallia. So farre it is off, that it should be called Cornwallia, of the Gaules that conquered it, which some there bee, that in flatterie of the French name and nation would uphold: who, if they were as quicke-sighted at home, as they bee curious abroad, might find that their * 1.7 Britaine lying upon the sea coast, opposite to this country, is so named of our Britan, and that Cornovaille, no small territorie therein, which speaketh the same language that our [ D] Cornishmen doe, tooke name of our countrey-men, that passed over hence to dwell there. For, as these our Britaines of the West parts, aided the Armorici of Gaule, in∣habiting in that tract in their warres against Caesar; upon which occasion hee preten∣ded a quarrell to invade Britaine, and they afterwards comming thither, as wee said before,* 1.8 changed the name of Armorici, and called it Britaine: so in the foregoing ages, readie they were, and ever at hand to helpe those Britaines their country-men against the French; and during the tempestuous troubles of the Danish warre, some of them put over thither also, and are thought to have left this name of Cornovaille behind them there. But to leave that Cornovaille.

This our Cornwall, as if nature made amends and recompence for the incroching [ E] in of the sea, is for the most part raised on high with mountaines, being in the vallies betweene of an indifferent glebe, with which the Sea weede, or reit commonly cal∣led Orewood,* 1.9 and a certaine kind of fruitfull Sea-sand, they make so ranke and battle, that it is incredible. The Sea coast, is beautified with very many Townes, able to set out a great fleet of Ships: the inland parts have rich and plenteous mines of tinne. For,* 1.10 there is digged out of them wonderfull store of tinne, yielding exceeding much profit and commoditie, where are made houshold pewter vessels, which are used throughout many parts of Europe in service of the table, and for their glittering brightnesse, compared with silver plate. The Inhabitants doe discover these mines by certaine tinne-stones lying on the face of the ground, which they call Shoad, be∣ing [ F] somewhat smooth and round. Of these Mines or tinne-workes, there be two kinds: the one they call, Lode-workes; the other Stream-workes. This lieth in lower grounds, when by trenching they follow the veines of tinne, and turne aside now and then the streames of water comming in their way: that other, is in higher places, when as upon the hils they dig very deepe pits, which they call, Shafts, and doe under∣mine.

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[ A] In working both waies there is seen wonderfull wit and skill, as well in draining of waters aside, and reducing them into one streame; as in the underbuilding, pin∣ning and propping up of their pits: to passe over with silence their devices of break∣ing, stamping, drying, crasing, washing, melting, and fining the mettall, than which there cannot be more cunning shewed. There are also two sorts of Tinne, Blacke tinne, which is tinne-ore broken and washed, but not yet founded into mettall, and white tinne, that is molten into mettall, and that is either soft tinne which is best mer∣chantable, or hard tinne lesse merchantable.

That the ancient Britans practised these tinne-works, (to omit Timaeus the Histo∣rian [ B] in Plinie,* 1.11 who reporteth, That the Britans fetched tinne out of the Isle Icta, in wicker boats covered and stitched about with leather) appeareth for certaine out of Diodorus Siculus, who flourished under Augustus Caesar. For, hee writeth, that the Britans, who Inhabited this part, digged tinne out of stonie ground, and at a low wa∣ter carried the same in carts, to certaine Ilands adjoyning. From whence Merchants transported it by ships into Gaule, and from thence conveied the same upon horses within thirtie daies unto the spring-heads of the river * 1.12 Eridanus, or else to the citie Narbone, as it were, to a Mart. Aethicus also, who ever hee was, that unworthily beareth title to be interpreted by S. Hierome out of the Sclavonian tongue, insinua∣teth the very same, and saith, That hee delivered rules and precepts to these Tinne-workers. [ C] But it seemeth, that the English-Saxons neglected it altogether, or to have used the workmanship and labour of Arabians or Saracens. For, the Inhabitants in their language terme the mines forlet and given over, Attal Sarisin, that is, the lea∣vings of the Saracens; if they did meane by that name, the ancient Panims.

After the comming in of the Normans, the Earles of Cornwal gathered great rich∣es out of these mines, and especially Richard brother to King Henrie the Third: and no marvell, sith that in those daies Europe had tinne from no other place. For, the incursions of the Mores, had stopped up the tinne mines of Spaine; and as for the tinne veines in Germanie, which are in Misnia and Bohemia, they were not as yet knowen: and those verily not discovered, before the yeere after Christs nativitie, [ D] 1240. For then, (as a writer of that age recordeth) was tinne mett all found in Germa∣nie by a certain Cornishman driven out of his native soile, to the great losse and hindrance of Richard Earle of Cornwal. This Richard began to make ordinances for these tin-works, and afterward Edmund his sonne granted a Charter, and certain liberties, and withall prescribed certaine Lawes concerning the same: which hee ratified or strengthened under his seale, and imposed a tribute or rent upon tin, to be answered unto the Earls.

These liberties, priviledges and lawes King Edward the Third, did afterwards con∣firme and augment.* 1.13 The whole common-wealth of those Tinners and workmen, as it were, one bodie, hee divided into foure quarters, which of the places they call Foy-more, Black-more, Trewarnaile, and Penwith. Over them all hee ordained a War∣den, [ E] called, L. Warden of the Stanniers, of Stannum, that is, Tinne; who giveth judge∣ment as well according to equitie and conscience,* 1.14 as Law; and appointed to every quarter their Stewards, who once every iij. weeks, (every one in his severall quarter) minister justice in causes personall betweene Tinner and Tinner, and betweene Tinner and Forrainer, except in causes of land, life, or member. From whom there lieth an appeale to the Lord Warden, from him to the Duke, from the Duke to the King. In matters of moment, there are by the Warden generall Parliaments, or severall assem∣blies summoned: whereunto Iurats are sent out of every Stannarie, whose constituti∣ons do bind them. As for those that deale with tinne, they are of foure sorts: the ow∣ners of the soile, the adventurers, the merchants or regraters, and the labourers, called [ F] the Spadiards (of their Spade) who poore men are pitifully out-eaten by usurious contracts. But the Kings of England, and Dukes of Cornwall, in their times have reserved to themselves a praeemption of tin (by the opinion of the learned in the Law) as well in regard of the proprietie, as being chiefe Lords and Proprietaries; as of their royall prerogative. Lest the tribute or rent imposed, should be embezelled, and the Dukes of Cornwall defrauded, unto whom by the old custome for every thousand pound waight of tinne there is paid forty shillings, it is by a Law provided, that all the

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tin which is cast & wrought, be brought to one of the foure appointed townes: where twice in the yeere it is weighed, and signed with a stampe, (they call it Coinage) and [ A] the said impost according paid: neither is it lawfull for any man before that, to sell or send it abroad, under forfeiture of their tin. And now only tin is here found, but there∣with also gold and silver; yea, and Diamonds shaped, and pointed anglewise, smoothed also by nature it selfe: whereof some are as big as walnuts, and inferiour to the Orient Diamonds, in blacknesse and hardnesse only. Moreover there is found Eryngium, that is,* 1.15 Sea Holly, growing most abundantly every where along the shore. Furthermore, so plentifull is this countrey of graine, although not without great toile of the husband∣man, that it hath not onely sufficient to maintaine it selfe, but also affoordeth often times great store of corne into Spaine. Besides, a most rich revenue and commoditie [ B] they have by those little fishes that they call Pilchards,* 1.16 which swarming, as one would say, in mighty great skuls about the shores from Iuly unto November, are there taken, garbaged, salted, hanged in the smoake, laied up, pressed, and by infinite numbers carried over into France, Spaine, and Italie, unto which countreys they be very good chaffer, and right welcome merchandise, and are there named * 1.17 Fumados. Where∣upon Michael a Cornish Poet, and of Rhymers in his time the chiefe, in his Sa∣tyre against Henrie of Aurenches, Archpoet to King Henrie the Third, because he had unreverently plaied upon Cornishmen, as if they were seated in the nocke hole of the world; after much satyricall sharpnesse, came out with these round rhymes: [ C]

Non opus est ut opes numerem quibus est opulenta, Et per quas, inopes sustentat non ope lenta: Piscibus & stanno nusquam tam fertilis ora. I need not here report the wealth, wherewith enrich'd it is, And whereby alwaies to sustaine poore folke it doth not misse: No coast elsewhere for fish and tinne, so plentious, ywis.
And yet is Cornwall nothing happier in regard of the soile, than it is for the people; who as they were endued and adorned with all civilitie, even in those ancient times; (For by reason of their acquaintance with merchants sailing thither for tin, as Diodorus Siculus reporteth, they were more courteous toward strangers:) so they are valiant, hardie, [ D] wel pitcht in stature, brawny & strong limmed: such as for wrastling, (to speak nothing of that manly exercise,* 1.18 & fear of hurling the Ball which they use) so farre excell, that for slight and cleane strength together, they justly win the prize and praise from other nations, in that behalfe. Moreover, that Poet Michael, when as in the excessive com∣mendation of his country men, hee had with gigging rimes resounded, how Arthur in his battels, gave them the honour, to give the first charge, he thus couragiously con∣cludeth in rime.

Quid nos deterret? si firmiter in pede stemus, Fraus ninos superet, nihil est quod non superemus. What frighteth us? if footing sure we have on steady ground, (Barre crafty sleights) there is no force but we can it confound. [ E]

And hereof peradventure ariseth the report so generally received, that Giants in times past Inhabited this countrey. For, Havillan the Poet, who lived foure hun∣dred yeares since, in describing of certaine British Giants, wrote pleasantly of Bri∣taine, and the Cornish Giants,* 1.19 in this wise:

—Titanibus illa Sed paucis famulosa domus, quibus uda ferarum Terga dabant vestes, cruor haustus, pocula trunci, Antra Lares, Dumeta thoros, coenacula rupes, Praeda cibos, raptus venerem, spectacula caedes, Imperium vires, animos furor, impetus arma, Mortem pugna, sepulchra rubus: monstris{que} gemebat [ F] Monticolis tellus: sed eorum plurima tractus Pars erat occidui, terror major{que} premebat Te furor, extremum Zephyri, Cornubia, limen. A lodge it was to Giants fell (though few) of Titans brood Enthralled: whose garments were raw hides of beasts full wood; Their bloud they dranke, but cups they made of hollow blocks and stocks,

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[ A] Caves serv'd for cabins, bushes for beds, for chambers craggie rocks. Prey slak'd their hunger, rape their lust, in murder tooke they Joy, Force gave them rule, and furie heart, wrath weapons to annoy▪ Fight brought thē death, grieves were their graves: thus groan'd the ground againe With mountain-Monsters. Howbeit, of them the number maine Did pester most the westerne tract: more feare made thee agast O Cornwall, utmost dore that art to let in Zephirus blast.

Now, whether this firme and wel compact constitution of the Cornish-men which proceedeth from the temperature of heat and moisture,* 1.20 is to bee referred unto the [ B] breeding-west wind and the Westerne situation thereof, like as wee see, that in Ger∣manie the Batavians, in France the Gascoines who be farthest Westward are the ablest and most valiant, or rather to some peculiar and speciall reason of aire and soile; it is not my purpose to search curiously.

Now let us treat of the Promontories, Cities and Rivers, whereof ancient writers have made mention: For, this is my principall project: beginning at the furthest point, and so surveying first the Southerne shore, then the Northern, and lastly the course of the river * 1.21 Tamara, which severeth this countie from Devonshire. The utmost Promontorie which lieth upon the Western Ocean, and is distant 17. degrees and no more in the globe or surface of the earth,* 1.22 from the Ilands called Azores, is [ C] called by Ptolomee Bolerium, and by Diodorus, Belerium; perhaps of the British word Pell, which signifieth a thing most remote or farthest off: by Ptolomee also the same is termed 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.23 or ANTIVESTAEVM, by the Britans, I meane their Bardie onely or Poets, Penringued; that is, the Promontorie of Bloud: For, the Welsh Historians name it Penwith, that is, the Promontorie on the left hand: The Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. For, Steort with them betokeneth a peece of land shooting into the Sea:* 1.24 and hereupon all that Hundred of Penwith at this day is called by borderers in their language, Pen vo las, that is, the end of the land: and in the same sence, we in English name it, The lands end; because it is the utmost part of the Iland toward the West. And if this Promon∣torie were sometimes called Helenum, as Volaterran and the late writers affirme, it [ D] came not of Helenus K. Priams sonne, but of Pen-Elin, which ignifieth in the British tongue an Elbow, as Ancon doth in Greeke. And seeing that crooked and bending shores be termed of the Greekes Ancnes, as Elbows, for so Plinie witnesseth of An∣cona in Italie, no absurditie is it at all, that this crooked and bowing shore should by the Britans in the same sence be called Pen-elin, and thereof that Latin name Helenum be derived. But as touching this name Antivestaeum, I was wont now and then to doubt, whether it savoured not of some Greek originall. For, seeing it was a common and usuall thing with the Greeks, to impose names upon places taken from the names of such as were opposite unto them, not only in Greece it selfe, where they have, * 1.25 Rhi∣um, and * 1.26 Antirrhium, but also in the * 1.27 Arabian gulfe, where there is Bacchium and An∣tibacchium, [ E] as also upon the gulf of Venice, Antibarrium, because it looketh towards Barrium, lying over against it in Italie; I searched diligently whether any place named Vestaeum, lay opposite unto this our Antivestum: but finding no such thing, I betooke my selfe againe to the British tongue, neither yet can I here resolve my self. But the Inhabitants doe suppose, that this Promontorie heretofore ran further into the Sea, and by the rubbish which is drawne out from thence, the Mariners affirme the ame: yea and the neighbor Inhabitants avouch, out of I wote not what fable, that the earth now covered there all over with the in-breaking of the Sea, was called Lionesse.

In the utmost rocks of this Promontorie, when at a low water they be bare, there appeare veines of tin and copper, and the people there dwelling report, that there [ F] stood a watch-Tower upon it, from whence by the light of burning fire, there was a signe given unto Sailers: no doubt, ad speculam Hispaniae, according as Orofius hath put downe in writing, That the most high watch-towre of Brigantia in Gallicia, a rare and ad∣mirable peece of worke, was erected ad speculam Britannia: that is, if I well understand him either for the use of Mariners sailing out of Britaine toward Spaine, or else, over against the watch-Towre of Britaine. For, no other place of this Iland looketh di∣rectly

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to Spaine. Upon it there standeth now a little village named S. Buriens (in old [ A] time Eglis Buriens; that is, The Church of Buriena or Beriena) consecrated to Buriena, a religious Irish woman.* 1.28 For, this nation alwaies honoured Irish Saints as tutelar patrons of their owne, so, all their Towns in manner they have consecrated unto them. This village King Athelstan, as the report goeth, granted to be a priviledged place or Sanctuarie, what time as he arrived as Conquerour out of the * 1.29 Iles of Sylly: True it is, that he built heere a Church, and that under William the Conquerour there was heere a Colledge of Chanons, unto whom the territorie adjoyning belonged. Neere unto this, in a place which they call Biscaw Woune, are to bee seene nine∣teene stones set in a round circle, distant every one about twelve foote from the o∣ther; [ B] and in the very center there is one pitched far higher and greater than the rest.* 1.30 This was some Trophee (or monument of victorie) erected by the Romans (as proba∣bly may bee conjectured) under the later Emperours, or else, by Athelstan the Saxon, when he had subdued the Cornish-men, and brought them under his dominion.

As the shore fetcheth a compasse by little and little from hence Southward, it let∣teth in a bay or creeke of the Sea, in manner of a Crescent, which they call Mounts∣bay: wherein, as the common speech goeth, the Ocean by rushing with a violent force drowned the land. Vpon this lieth Mousehole, in the British tongue Port Inis, that is, The Haven of the Iland: For which, Henry of Ticis, a Baron in his time and Lord of Alwerton and Tiwernel in this Country,* 1.31 obtained of King Edward the First the grant [ C] to have a market there. Likewise there is seated upon this Bay Pen-sans, that is, The Cape or Head of Saints, or as some thinke Sands, * 1.32 a prety market Towne: within a little whereof is that famous stone, Main-Amber; which, being a great Rock advanced upon some other of meaner size with so equall a counterpeize, a man, may stir with the push of his finger, but to remove it quite out of his place a great number of men are not a∣ble: as also Merkin, that is, Iupiters market, (because Thursday anciently dedicated to Iupiters is their market day) a dangerous rode for ships. And in the very angle and corner it selfe S. Michaels mount,* 1.33 which gave name unto the foresaid Bay; sometime called Dinsol, as wee find in the booke of Landaffe: the Inhabitants name it Careg Cowse,* 1.34 that is, The hoary Crag or Rock, the Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Michaels place, as Master Laurence Noel, a man of good note for his singular learning, and who was [ D] the first in our age that brought into ure againe and revived the language of our an∣cestours the Saxons, which through disuse lay sorlet and buried in oblivion, hath well observed. This Rocke is of a good height and craggy, compassed round about with water so oft as it is floud, but at every ebbe joyned to the main-land, so that they say of it, It is land and Iland twice a day. For which cause, Iohn Earle of Oxford, not many yeeres ago, presuming upon the strength of the place, chose it for his chiefest defence when he raised war against King Edward the Fourth, and valiantly held the same, but with no good successe. For, his souldiers being assailed by the Kings for∣ces straight waies yeelded. In the very top heereof within the Fortresse, there was a Chappell consecrated to S. Michael, the Archangell, where William Earle of Corn∣wall [ E] and Moriton, who by the bounteous gift of King William the First had great lands, & large possessions in this tract, built a Cell for one or two monks; who avouch∣ed that S. Michael appeared in that mount: which apparition, or the like, the Itali∣ans challenge to their hill Garganus, and the Frenchmen likewise to their Mi∣chaels mount in Normandie. At the foote of this mountaine within the memorie of our Fathers,* 1.35 whiles men were digging up of tin they found Spear-heads, axes, and swords of brasse wrapped in linnen: such as were sometimes found within the forrest Hercinia in Germanie, and not long since in our Wales. For, evident it is by the monuments of ancient Writers, that the Greeks, the Cimbrians and Britans used bra∣zen weapons, although the wounds given with brasse bee lesse hurtfull, as in which [ F] mettall there is a medicinable vertue to heale: according as Macrobius reporteth out of Aristotle. But happily that age was not so cunning in devising meanes to mischiefe and murthers, as ours is. In the rocks underneath, as also along the shore every where breedeth the * 1.36 Pyrrhecorax, a kind of crow with bill and feet red, and

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[ A] not, as Plinie thought, proper to the Alpes onely. This bird the inhabitants have found to be an Incendiarie, and theevish beside. For, oftentimes it secretly conveieth fire-sticks setting their houses a fire and as closely filcheth and hideth little peeces of money. In this place the countrey is most narrow and groweth as it were into an * 1.37 Isthmus, for it is scarse foure miles over from hence to the Severn or upper sea. A little above this mount, there openeth a Creeke of good bredth, called of the mount, Mountsbay, a most safe rode and harbour for ships, when the South and Southeast winds are aloft and bluster, at a mid ebbe and returne of the Sea, six or seven fathom deepe. More toward the East ariseth Godolcan hill, right famous for plentifull veines of tin (they call it now Godolphin) but much more renowned in regard of the Lords [ B] thereof,* 1.38 bearing the same name, who with their vertues have equalled the ancient∣nesse of that house and linage.* 1.39 But that name in the Cornish language, came of A white Aegle, and this family hath anciently borne for their armes in a shield Gules, an Aegle displaied Argent, betweene three Flower-deluces of the same, id est Argent like∣wise in a shield Gules.

From S. Michaels mount Southward, immediatly there is thrust forth a bi-land or demi-Ile, at the very entrie whereof Heilston sheweth it selfe, called in their country language Hellas, by reason of the salt water flowing thereto: a Towne of great resort for their priviledge of marking and coinage of tin. Under which by the confluence [ C] and meeting of many waters there is made a lake two miles in length,* 1.40 named Loo poole, divided from the Sea by a narrow banke running betweene, which whensoever it is by the violence of waves broken thorow, a wonderfull roring of waters is heard far and neere all over the countrey adjoining. And not far from thence there is to be seene a militarie fense or rampier of a large compasse built of stones, heaped toge∣ther and laid without mortar, they call it in their tongue, Earth; of which sort there be others heere and there: raised, as I verily beleeve, in the Danish warre. Neither is it unlike to those fortifications of the Britans, which Tacitus termeth rudes & informes saxorum compages, that is, rude and ilfavoured compacted piles of stone. As for the said [ D] Demi-Iland, it selfe being of a good bignesse and replenished with villages, it is na∣med Meneg,* 1.41 and no doubt that MENNA, which out of Cornelius a writer of An∣nals (but whether he be Tacitus, I wot not) Jornandes in his Geticks describeth, and is in some copies found written Memma. For, it is, as he saith, In the utmost coast of Britaine, having in it great store of mettall mines, very full of grasse and herbes, bringing forth more plentifully all those things which serve for pastorage of beasts, rather than nou∣rishment of men. But where as he said, that it hath plenteous store of Mettals, it is now so destitute, that it may seeme long since to have beene exhaust thereof. The Sailers, at this day call the utmost South-West point thereof Lisard; Ptolomee, The PRO∣MONTORIE OF THE DANMONII, add OCRINVM; Aethicus in that strange Geo∣graphie of his, OCRANVM; and he reckoneth it among the mountaines of the West [ E] Ocean.* 1.42 Which name whether it take of Ocra, which by Sext. Pompeius, signifieth a craggy hill, I dare not affirme. And yet among the Alpes, Ocrea, Ocriculum, and Inter∣ocrea, drew their denomination of their steepe and rocky site.* 1.43 But seeing that Ochr betokeneth in the British tongue an Edge, what if I should thinke the name was gi∣ven to this Promontorie, because it hath a sharpe edge and groweth at the end pointed in fashion of a cone? In the turning in of the shore from this Meneg, you meet with a Bay very commodious for ships to harbour in, by reason of so many turnings, cones and angled windings therein, receiving into it the little river Vale. Neere unto which within the countrey,* 1.44 flourished sometime that ancient Towne Voluba, menti∣oned [ F] by Ptolomee: but it is long since either utterly decayed, or hath lost his name: yet it remaineth partly in Valemouth;* 1.45 or Falemouth Haven. This Haven is as noble as * 1.46 Brundusium it selfe in Italie: of exceeding great capacity; for it is able to receive an hundred ships, which may ride therein so a part by themselves, that out of never a one of them the top of anothers Mast can be seene: and most safe withall under the wind, by reason that it is enclosed on every side with brims of high rising banks. In the very entrance of this Haven, there mounteth up an high and steep craggy rock, which the

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inhabitants call Crage. The gullet on either hand, as well for the defense and safetie [ A] of the place, as for terror to enemies, is fortified with block-houses: to wit, the castle of S. Mand•••• East-ward, and toward the West, the fort Pendinas, built both by King Henrie the Eighth: Of which fortresses the * 1.47 Antiquarian Poet writeth thus:

* 1.48Pendinas tenet asperi cacumen Celsu montis, & intonat frequenter. Mauditi quoque subsidet rotundum Castrum, & impetu fulminat furenti, Portus ostia quá patent Falensis. Pendinas mounted is aloft, [ B] On craggy cliffe, and thundreth oft: S. Maudit eke a castle round, That stands beneath on lower ground With gunshot makes Fale mouth resound.

But the Haven it selfe is by Ptolomee called Ostium CENIONIS, The mouth of Cenio,* 1.49 doubtlesse of the British word Geneu, which betokeneth a doore and entrance. And this to bee true, the Towne Tregenie neere adjoyning doth testifie: for it is as much (if a man interpret it) as a little Towne by the Mouth. Vpon the innermore creeks and nooks of this Haven, there stand some Townes: namely, Peryn, for a mar∣ket well frequented,* 1.50 where Walter Bronescome Bishop of Excester, in the yeeae 1288. [ C] erected a Collegiat Church,* 1.51 (they call it Glasnith) and twelve Prebendaries: Arwe∣nak, the seat of the ancient and noble family of the Killegrewes; Truro, in the Cor∣nish tongue Truru, so called of three Streets encircled, as it were, with two rivers; a Maior Towne, as they call it, and endowed with many priviledges, and coynage of tin: also Grampound, which is seated farthest from the Haven, and neighbour to it is Golden the inheritance of Tregian, a house ancient and well allied. But descending to the Havens mouth you may see Fenten-Gollan, in English Hartes-well, lately the seat of Carminow a family anciently of high esteeme for bloud and wealth,* 1.52 betweene whom and the Lord Scrope two hundred yeeres since, was a plea commenced in the Court of Chivalry, for bearing in a shield Azure a Bend Or.] Vnder which on the [ D] Sea side lieth the territorie of Rosseland; so named, as some thinke, as if it were a rose∣plot: but as I suppose,* 1.53 because it is an heath or place of lings: for so Ros signifieth in the British tongue. Whereof, Rosse in Scotland, and another Rosse in Wales have their names, as being tracts drie, hungry and barren: Howbeit, this heere, through the industrie of the husbandmen is more battle-ground and fruitfull. Beyond this Rosse∣land presently the Ocean (as the land retireth and giveth back) shooteth in and ma∣keth a large Bay; they call it Tru-ar-draith Bay, which is by interpretation, The Bay of the towne upon the sand:* 1.54 whereunto fall many fresh rillets, amongst which that is princi∣pal which passeth by Lanladron, whose Lord S. Serlo Lanladron was summoned a Ba∣ron to the Parliament, in that age when the select men for wisedome and worth a∣mongst [ E] the Gentrie were called to Parliament, and their posterity omitted if they were defective therein.* 1.55 Scarse two miles from hence, whereas the river Fawey fal∣leth into the Sea, lieth the Towne Fowey, Foath in Cornish, stretching out in length upon the sea banke: a Towne most renowned in former ages, for sea-fights: which the very armes of the Towne doe witnesse, as being compounded of the Cinque-ports arms, By the haven it hath bulwarks on both sides built by King Edward the Fourth: who shortly after being displeased with these townesmen of Fowey, for that when the warre in France was compounded, they practised piracy upon the French; tooke [ F] from them all their ships and furniture for shipping. Von the other bank over against it standeth Hall, situate on the hanging of an hill with a right pleasant vvalke, the ha∣bitation full vvell knovvne of Sir Reginald Mohun Knight,* 1.56 of an ancient and noble house by birth, as descended from the Mohunes, of Somerset, and the Courtneyes Earles of Devonshire. Farther vvithin the countrie, and by the same river, VZELLA mentioned by Ptolomee is seated: vvhich tovvne hauing not lost altogether the old name, is at this day called Lest-uthiell: It stood anciently upon an high hill, vvhere the

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[ A] old castle Lestmel now sheweth his ruins: but it was removed lower into the valley. From the high situation it received the ancient name; for Vchel in the British tongue soundeth as much as [high] or [aloft]: whence * 1.57 Vxellodunum also in France tooke the name, because the towne standing upon an hill had a very steep fall on every side. In the British storie, this is called Pen-uchelcoit; that is, The high hill in the wood: which some would have to be Exceter. But the situation in Ptolomee, and the name re∣maining still, prove this to be the ancient Vzella. In these our dayes, a small towne it [ B] is and nothing populous, because the river Fawey, which aforetime was wont at eve∣ry tide or high water to flow unto the very towne and to beare and bring in ships, hath his channell so choked and damned up now with sands, comming from the tin-workes (wherewith all the havens in this province are like in processe of time to be choked up) as that it is hardly able to beare the least barge that is. Howbeit, the chiefe towne it is of the whole countie,* 1.58 where the Shiriffe sitteth judicially every moneth and determineth causes: and there the Warden of the Stannaries hath his prison. It enjoyeth also the priviledge, by the bounteous favour, as themselves say, of Edmund Earle of Cornwall (who there in times past had his honor) to seale or coyne the tin. But there bee two townes above the rest that hinder the light and [ C] eclipse the fame of this;* 1.59 to wit, on the East side thereof Leskerd, situat on the top of a very high hill, much frequented for the mercat, and renowned for an ancient castle there:* 1.60 and on the North side Bodman, which standeth on the side hand of it scarse two miles off: and is named (if I be not deceived) Bosuenna in the Cornish tongue, and Bod∣minian in old Deeds and Charters. This towne situate thus in no healthy seat between two hils, and lying out in length East and West, is for the mercat there kept, of great resort, for the inhabitants populous, beautifull enough for building, and of name for their priviledge of coinage of tin: but more famous in ancient time for the Bishops See there. For, about the yeere of our salvation 905, when the State of the Church lay in this tract altogether neglected,* 1.61 by vertue of a decree from Pope Formosus, King [ D] Edward the Elder erected heere a Bishops See, and granted at that time unto the Bi∣shop of Kirton, three villages in this countrie, Polton, Caeling, and Lanwitham, that from thence every yeere he should visit the people of Cornwall, to fetch out of them their er∣rours: for, before time they did what they could to resist the truth, and obeied not the A∣postolicall decrees. But afterwards, in the furious heat of that terrible Danish warre, the Bishoprick was translated to Saint Germans. Hard by Leskerd lyeth that which sometime was the Church of S. Guerir, that is, (if you interpret it out of the British speech) S. Leech or Physician: where, (as writeth Asserius) King Alfred lying prostrate at his prayers, recovered out of a sicknesse. But when Neotus a man of singular holi∣nesse and learning, was afterwards entombed in the same Church, hee outshone the [ E] light of the other Saint, so as that in his memorie it was named Neotestow, that is, The place of Neotus,* 1.62 and now Saint Neoths: and the religious men that served God there∣in were named Saint Neoths Clerkes, and had for their maintenance rich and large revenues, as we may see in William Conquerours booke. Neere unto this, as I have learned,* 1.63 within the parish of Saint Clare, there are to be seene in a place called Pen∣nant, that is, The head of the vale, two monuments of stone: of which the one in the up∣per part is wrought hollow in manner of a Chaire: the other, named Otherhalfe stone, hath an inscription of Barbarous characters, now in manner worne out, in this wise.

[ F]

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〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

[ A] [ B] [ C]

Which as I take it, should be read thus, * 1.64 DONIERT: ROGAVIT, PRO ANIMA: unlesse it please you to give this conjecture, that those little pricks after DONIERT, are the reliques of the letter E: and then to read it after this manner, DONIERT ERO∣GAVIT, as if he had given and bestowed upon those religious men, that peece of land, for his soule. As for Doneert, I cannot but thinke, he was that Prince of Corn∣wall, [ D] whom the Chronicles name Dungerth, and record, that he was drowned in the yeere of our Salvation 872.

Hard by, there is a number of good big rockes heaped up together, and under them, one Stone of lesser size, fashioned naturally in forme of a cheese, so as it seemeth to be pressed like a cheese, whereupon it is named, Wring-cheese. Many other Stones be∣sides in some sort foure square,* 1.65 are to be seene upon the plaine adjoyning; of which seven or eight are pitched upright of equall distance asunder. The neighbour Inha∣bitants terme them Hurlers, as being by a devout and godly error perswaded, they had beene men sometimes transformed into Stones,* 1.66 for profaning the Lords Day, with hurling the ball. Others, would have it to be a Trophee (as it were) or a monu∣ment, [ E] in memoriall of some battell: And some thinke verily they were set as meere stones or land marks, as having read in those authors that wrote of Limits, that stone were gathered together of both parties,* 1.67 and the same erected for bounders. In this coast the river Loo maketh way and runneth into the sea: and in his very mouth gi∣veth name to two little townes, joyned with a bridge together. That on the West side, which is the newer, flourisheth most: but the other Eastward, time hath much decayed: although it bee a Corporation retaining still the priviledge of a Maior and Burgesses. Somewhat West-ward from this lieth Kilgarth the habitation of the Bevils of especiall good note for antiquity and gentry. From Loo East-ward you meet with [ F] no memorable thing, but a small river passing by Minhevet, whereby is Pole the seat of the Trelawnies, to whom with others the inheritance of the Courtneys Earles of Devon accrewed:* 1.68 untill you come to the Liver, a little river stored with oisters, that runneth under S. Germans a small towne, unto which during the tempestuous Da∣nish warre, the Bishops Sees were for feare translated: where there is a prety Church dedicated unto S. German of Antiziodorum, who rooted out the heresie of Pelagius,

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[ A] that sprung up againe in Britaine. Wherein after that some few Bishops had sitten, Levinus the Bishop of Kirton, who was in great favour with Canutus the Dane, ob∣tained by vertue of the Kings authoritie, that it should be Joyned to his See. Since which time, there hath beene but one Bishop over this Province and Denshire both (whose seat is now at Exceter): and who appointed the little Towne of S. Germans to be the seat of his Suffragan. For at this day, it is nothing else but a village consisting of fishermens cabins, that make a good gainfull trade, by catching store of fish in the Ocean and rivers neere adjoyning.* 1.69 Some few miles from hence, upon the same river standeth Trematon, bearing the name of a Castle, though the wall bee halfe downe; in [ B] which, as we find in Domesday booke, William Earle of Moriton had his Castle, and held his mercate, and was the capitall seat of the Baronie belonging to the Earles and Dukes of Cornwall, as we may see in the Inquisitions. When the Liver is past this Castle, neere unto Saltash, sometimes Esse, the habitation in old times of the * 1.70 Val∣torts, and now a Towne well replenished with Merchants, and endowed with many priviledges, it runneth into the river Tamar, the bound of the whole countrey: where at the East-side Mont-Edgecombe,* 1.71 the seat of that ancient family of the Edgecombs, sited most pleasantly hath a prospect into an haven underneath it, full of winding creekes.* 1.72 Next unto which is Anthony, a Towne memorable for the elegant building thereof, as also for a fish poole that letteth in the Ocean, and yeeldeth sea-fish for pro∣fit [ C] and pleasure both: but more memorable it is for the Lord thereof, Richard Carew, who so maintaineth his place and estate left unto him by his ancestors, as that in orna∣ments of vertues he surmounteth them. Hitherto we have surveied the South coast: now let us take a view of the Northern also. The Northern-shore from the very lands end, having for a great length huge banks of sand driven upon heapes against it, shoo∣teth out first to a Towne running into the sea with a long ridge like a tongue, called S. Iies,* 1.73 taking the name of one Iia an Irish woman that lived heere in great holinesse, for anciētly it was named Pendinas. And from her the Bay underneath into which the lit∣tle river Haile falleth, hath likewise received the name, for the Mariners call it S. Iies Bay. As for the Towne it selfe, it is now very small: For, the North west wind that [ D] playes the tyrant in this coast by drifts of sand hath so beaten upon it, that from thence it is translated and removed. From hence the countrey on both sides, still Eastward, waxeth broader, and the Northern shore with a more crooked winding holdeth on * 1.74 North-east as far as Padstow: neither all that way along hath it any thing savouring of antiquity, save onely a Chappell built in the sands, to the honor of S. Pi∣ran, who being likewise an Irish Saint resteth heere entombed: unto whose Sanctitie a certaine vaine writer in his childish folly hath ascribed this miracle, that with three kine of his owne he fed ten Kings of Ireland and their armies eight dayes together: also that hee raised from death to life both pigs and men.* 1.75 Then, farther from the shore is seated S. Columbs a little mercate Towne, consecrated to the memoriall of [ E] Columba a right devout woman and a martyr, & not of Columban the Scot, as now I am given to understand for certaine, out of her life. Neere unto which, but more to the sea-ward,* 1.76 Lhanheton sheweth it selfe, the seat of the Arondels, a familie of Knights degree, who for their faire lands and large possessions were not long since called, the Great Arondels. In some places they are written in Latin, De Hirundine, and not amisse, if my judgement be ought: For Hirundo, that is, a Swallow, is named Arondell in French: and i a shield sables, they beare for their armes six Swallowes argent.* 1.77 Certes, a very ancient and renowned house this is, spreading far and neere the branches of their kinred and affinity: unto the name and coat-armour whereof Wil∣liam Brito a Poet alluded, when as he describeth a valiant warriour out of this familie [ F] flying as it were upon William of Bar a French noble man, and assailing him, about the yeere of our Lord 1170. in these termes:

—Hirundelae velocior alite, quae dat Hoc agnomen ei, fert cujus in aegide signum, Se rapit agminibus medijs, clypeo{que}, menti

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Quem sibi Guilielmus laeva praetenderat ulna, Immergit validam praeacutae cuspidis hastam. [ A] —more swift, than bird hight * 1.78 Arondell That giv's him name, and in his shield of armes emblazoned well, He rides amid the armed troupes, and with his speare in rest (The staffe was strong, the point right sharpe) runs full upon the brest Of Sir Guillaum, and pierceth through his bright and glittering shield, Which on left arme he for defence, against him stoutly held.

Within a little hereof, there is a double rampire intrenched upon the pitch of an hill, with a causey leading thereto, named, Castellan Denis, that is, The Danes Campe; [ B] because the Danes when they preyed upon the coasts of England, encamped them∣selves there,* 1.79 like as they did in other places of this tract.

Nor farre from hence the river Alan, which also is called Camb-alan, and Camel, of the crooked windings & reaches that it makes in his course, (for so Cam with them doth signifie) runneth gently into the upper sea: which river at the very mouth thereof hath Padstow a pretty market towne,* 1.80 so called shor for Petroekstow, (as we read in the Histories of Saints) of one Petrocch a Britan, canonized a Saint by the people: who, spent his daies here in the service of God, whereas before time it had the name of Lo∣deric and Laffenac. The site of this Town is very commodious for traffique in Ireland, to which men may easily saile in foure and twentie houres. And much beautified it is with faire and goodly houses adjoyning thereto, in manner of a Castle, built by [ C] N. Prideaux, a Gentleman of ancient gentry in those West parts. At the Spring-head of this river Alan, standeth the little village Camelford, otherwise Gaffelford. Leland Judgeth, it was in old time called Kamblan, who writeth also, That King Ar∣thur our Hector was there slaine: For, as hee recordeth, peeces of armour, rings, horse-harnesse of brasse are otherwhiles digged up, and turned out of the ground by husbandmen: and the common fame that continued so many ages together, repor∣teth, that there was a notable battell fought in this place. There are also certaine ver∣ses in an unknowne Poet living in the middle time, of Cambula flowing with bloud, shed in a battell of Arthur against Mordred: which I will not thinke much of my la∣bour to put downe, because they may seeme to have beene written in no bad Poeti∣call [ D] vaine.

—Naturm Cambula fontis Mutatam stupet esse sui, transcendit inundans Sanguineus torrens ripas, & volvit in aequor Corpora caesorum, plures natare videres Et petere aexilium, quos undis vita reliquit. Then Cambula was sore agast, the nature chang'd to see Of his spring-head, for now the streame by this time gan to bee All mixt with bloud, which swelling high the banks doth overflow, And carry downe the bodies slaine, into the sea below. There might one see how many a man that swum and helpe did crave, [ E] Was lost among the billowes strong, and water was their grave.
And in very deed (not to deny this of Arthur) I have read in Marianus, that the Bri∣tans and Saxons fought in this place a bloudy battell, in the yeere of our Lord 80, so that this may seeme a place consecrated unto Mars. And if it be true that Arthur here died, the same coast was destined unto him for his death, as for his birth. For, on the shore hard by, standeth Tindagium (the native place of that great Arthur) partly upon a little ridge,* 1.81 putting forth, as it were, a tongue; and partly within an Iland, having both of them sometime a bridge betweene. They call it at this day Tindagel, beeing now a glorious ruine onely,* 1.82 in times past a stately Castle: of which a late Poet hath thus written: [ F]
Est locus Abrini finnoso littore ponti Rupe situs media, refluus quem circuit astus; Fulminat hic lat turrit vertice castrum, Nomine Tindagium veteres dixere Corini.

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[ A] There is a place within the winding shore of Severne Sea On mids a rocke about whose foote the tides turne-keeping play, A Towry-topped Castle here farre thundreth over all, Which Cornishmen by ancient name, Tindagel Castle call.
A long discourse it would aske to declare here out of Geffries history, how Uther Pendragon King of Britaine, within this Castle became enamoured upon the wife of Gorlois Prince of Cornwall; and how by Magick slights and delusions, taking the shape of her husband upon him, dishonourably violated the Ladie his wife, and of her be∣gat the said renowned Arthur.* 1.83 It may suffice, if I doe but alleage the verses of our Po∣et [ B] Iohn Havillan.

—Facie dum falsus adulter Tindagel irrupit, nec amoris Pendragon astum Vincit, & omnificas Merlini consulit artes, Mentitur{que} ducis habitus, & rege latente, Induit absentis praesentia Gorlois ora, Whiles Pendragon that could not quench his flaming heats of love, But beare a mind adult'rous still, by meanes brake in above To Tindagel, disguis'd in face, by Merlin taught thereto, By magicke and inchauntments strange, which all such feats could doe. [ C] Duke Gorloes habite, absent then that was, he tooke by guile; But presence of the King in place he did conceale the while.

This Uther Pendragon verily was a Prince flourishing in Mariall feats, & who va∣liantly upheld the decaying state of his countrey against the English Saxons: But whether came from him, That Royall Banner in England, having the portraict of a Dra∣gon with a golden head,* 1.84 whereof of neighbour nations have had experience, and which in far Lands beyond sea was under King Richard the First, terrible to the Panims, I dare not a∣vouch: I would beleeve rather, it was received from the Romans, who a long time used the Eagle, after that Marius had rejected the Ensignes of a Wolfe, of Minotaurus, [ D] of an Horse, &c. And in the end under the latter Emperors, tooke them to the Dra∣gon: Whereupon Claudianus writeth thus:

—Hij picta Draconum Calla levant— The banners these advance aloft With speckled necks of Dragons wrought.

And Nemesianus:

Signa micant, sinuat{que} truces levis aura Dracones. Their Ensignes shine, and Dragons fell that therein pictur'd show, Wave to and fro with whiffes of wind, as it doth gently blow.

[ E] And Hoveden sheweth, that the West Saxon Kings used to carrie in their Ban∣ners, the Dragon.* 1.85 As for another Banner of the English, which Beda called Tufa, as also the Danes, Reafan, I will say nothing of them in this place, for feare I may seeme to have digressed too farre from my purpose. Betweene Padstow and Tindagel, inwardly there extendeth a fruitfull veine, and therein flourish the families of Roscar∣rock, Carnsew, Penkevell, Cavell, Pencavell, of ancient name and great respect in this coast.

Forward still, Eastward on the same coast which is open, barren, and destitute of woods,* 1.86 there butteth upon the sea Botereaux Castle, corruptly by the common peo∣ple, called Boscastle, built by the Lords Botereaux, who gave for their armes three Buf∣fones, toads sable in a shield Argent. William Botereaux was the first famous man of [ F] honour in this familie, who married Alice the daughter of Robert Corbet, whose si∣ster was Paramour to King Henrie the First, of whom hee begat Reginald Earle of Cornwall. From this William there flourished eleven successively in order. But Mar∣garet the onely daughter and sole heire of the last, was wedded unto Robert Hun∣gerford: by whose posteritie the Inheritance is devolved upon the familie of the Ha∣stings, which inheritance was augmented, and became more honourable by marria∣ges,

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that those of Botereaux contracted with the heires of the Noble houses, De Moe∣les, S. Laud, commonly called, S. Lo, and Thweng. [ A]

* 1.87From hence the Land shooting forth into the Sea, extendeth it selfe so farre north∣ward, that the countrey carrieth here full three and twenty miles in breadth, betweene the two seas, which hitherto went on still drawen after a sort together into a narrow streit. In this greatest breadth of it, standeth Stow upon the sea-side, the ancient habitation of the Creenvils:* 1.88 which verily for Antiquitie and Noblenesse of birth is a famous house: out of which one Richard, in the raigne of William * 1.89 Rufus, was for his valour much renowned among those worthy Knights that subdued Gla∣morganshire in Wales: and another of late daies surnamed likewise Richard, for his [ B] magnanimitie surpassing the Nobilitie of his bloud, fighting most valiantly against the Spaniards at the Ilands of Tercera, lost his life, as I shall shew more fully in my Annals. To this Stratton lieth close to a market Towne of no meane name amongst the neighbours for their gardens,* 1.90 and good garlicke: and next unto it Lancels a faire new seat of that old family, de Calvo monte, or, Chaumond.

The river TAMARA, now TAMAR, shewing his head here not farre from the nor∣thren shore,* 1.91 taketh his course with a swift running streame southward; encreased with the channels of many rivelets hard by TAMARA, a Towne mentioned by Ptolo∣mee, now called Tamerton, by Tamar an ancient Mannour of the Trevilions, to whom by marriage, the Inheritance of Walesborough and Ralegh of Netlested descended: [ C] also, by Lanstuphadon, that is, Saint Stephens, commonly and contractly Launston, which standeth farther off from his banke: a proper little Towne this is, situate upon the pitch of a prettie hill, which of two Burgards, Dunevet and Newport, is growne as it were, into one Burgh. At the first comming of the Normans, William Earle of Moriton, built a Castle there; and had a Colledge of* 1.92 Chanons, or Secular Priests, as appeareth out of Domesday book, wherein it is named Launstaveton, of that Colledge, no doubt,* 1.93 built in the honour of Saint Stephen, which Reginald Earle of Cornwall, about the yeere of our Lord 1150, turned into a monasterie. Against which pious worke of his, the Bishops of Excester, carried away over much and seduced with hu∣mane and private affection, were verie maliciously bent, as fearing exceedingly, lest one day it would become a Bishops seat, and so prejudice and impeach their jurisdiction. [ D] At this day this Town is best knowne, by reason of the common Goale of the coun∣trey, and the Assises, which are often times kept there.

Then Tamar looketh up unto an high hil stretched out in length, with a vast head, which Marianus nameth 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and interpreteth it, Hengists mount▪ commonly called, Hengston-hill. Which in times past was so plentifull of Tinne veines, that the countrey people had this by word of it, [Hengston downe well ywrought,] [Is worth London deere ybought.] And it was an ordinarie place, where every seven or eight yeere, the Stannarie men of Cornwall and Denshire, were wont in great frequencie, to assemble together, and to consult about their affaires. At this hill in the yeere of savation DCCCXXXI, the British Danmonij, who calling the Danes to aid them of [ E] purpose to break into Devonshire, that they might drive out the English from thence, who alreadie possessed themselves of the countrey, were pitiously defeated by King Egbert, and slaine almost to the very last man. Beneath it Tamar leaveth Halton the habitation of the Rouses, anciently Lords of Little Modbery in Devonshire, and running nigh unto Salt-Esse, a prettie market Towne seated in the descent of an hill, which hath a Major and certaine priviledges of their owne,* 1.94 as I said erewhile, it en∣tertaineth the river Liver, on which standeth that same Towne of Saint Germans, whereof I spake before. And now by this time spreading broader, dischargeth it selfe into the Ocean, making the haven which in the life of Saint Indractus, is called Ta∣merworth, after it hath severed Cornwall from Denshire. For Athelstane, the first Eng∣lish [ F] King that brought this countrey absolute under his dominion, appointed this ri∣ver to be the bound or limit, between the Britans of Cornwal, and his Englishmen af∣ter he had remooved the Britans out of Denshire, as witnesseth William of Malms∣burie, who calleth it Tambra. Whereupon Alexander Necham, in his Praises of di∣vine

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[ A] wisedome, writeth thus:

Loegriae Tamaris divisor Cornubiae{que}, Indigenas ditat pinguibus Isiciis. Tamar that Lhoegres doth divide from Cornwall in the west, The neighbour-dwellers richly serves with Salmons of the best.

The place requireth here,* 1.95 that I should say somewhat of the holy and devout virgin Ursula descended from hence, as also of the eleven thousand British Virgins. But such is the varietie of Writers, whiles some report they suffered martyrdome under Gra∣tian the Emperour about the yeare of our Lord CCCLXXXIII, upon the coast of Ger∣manie, as they sailed to Armorica; others by Attlia the Hun, that scourge of God, [ B] in the yeare CCCCL. at Coline upon Rhene, as they returned from Rome; that with some it hath brought the truth of the History into suspition of a vaine fable. And as touching that Constantine, whom Gildas termeth a tyrannous whelpe of the uncleane Danmonian Lionesse; as also of the Disforresting of all this country, (for before time it was reputed a Forrest) let Historians speake, for it is no part of my purpose.

As for the Earles,* 1.96 none of British bloud, are mentioned but onely Candorus (called by others Cadocus) who is accounted by late writers, the last Earle of Cornwall, of British race, and as they which are skilfull in Heraldry, have a tradition, bare XV. Be∣saunts V. IIII. III. II. and I. in a shield Sable. But of the Normans bloud the first Earle was Robert of Moriton, halfe brother to William Conqueror, by Herlotta, their [ C] mother; after whom succeeded William his sonne: who when hee had sided with Robert of Normandie against Henry the First, King of England, being taken priso∣ner in battell, lost both his libertie, and his honours; and at last turned Monke at Ber∣mondsey. Then Reginald, a base sonne of Henrie the First, by the daughter of Sir Robert Corber, (for, that King plied getting children so lustfully, as that hee was father of thirteene Bastards) was placed in his roome.* 1.97 This Reginald dying without issue male legitimate, King Henry the Second, having assigned unto his daughters certaine lands and Lordships, reserved this Earledome to himselfe, for the ehoore of his owne youngest sonne Iohn, a child of nine yeares old, upon whom his brother Ri∣chard the First conferred it afterwards with other Earledomes. This Iohn afterward [ D] was crowned King of England, and his second sonne Richard, was by his brother King Henry the Third, endowed with this honour, and the Earledome of Poictou: a Prince verily in those daies puissant, in Gods service devout and religious, in war right valiant, for counsell sage and prudent, who in Aquitaine fought battels with fortunate successe, and shewed much valour: and having made a voyage into the Holy Land, enforced the Sarazens to make truce with him: the Kingdome of Apulia, offered un∣to him by the Pope he refused; the troubles and tumults in England, he often times composed; and in the yeare of our Lord MCCLVIL. by some of the Princes Electours of Germany was chosen King of the Romans, and crowned at Aquisgrane: where∣upon, as if he had made meanes thereto by money, this verse was so rie and currant [ E] every where.

Nummus ait pro me, nubit Cornubia Romae. For me, my money, saieth this, Cornwall to Rome now wedded is.

For, so well monied he was before, that one, who then lived, hath put downe in writing, that for ten yeares together hee might dispend one hundred markes a day. But when as Germanie was all on a light fire with civil warres among competitors of the Empire, he returned quickly into England, where he departed this life, and was in∣terred in the famous Monastery of Hales which he had built; a little after that his first begotten son Henry, newly in his return from the Holy Land, whiles he was at divine [ F] service, devoutly occupied within a church at Viterbium in Italy, was by Guy de Mont∣fort, son of Simon Montfort Earle of Leceister, in revenge of his fathers death, wicked∣ly slaine. Edmund therefore, his second son succeeded in the Earledome of Cornwall; who died without any lawfull issue: and so his high and great estate of inheritance re¦turned to King Edward the First, as who was the next unto him in bloud, and * 1.98 found (as our Lawyers say) his heire. Whereas that Richard and Edmund his sonne, Princes

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of the bloud Royall of England, bare divers Armes from the Armes Royall of Eng∣land, to wit, in a shield argent, a Lyon rampant, gules crowned, or, within a border sa∣bles [ A] Bezante, I have with others oftentimes much marvelled at: neither (I assure you) can I alleage any other reason, but that they in this point imitated the house Royall of France, (for the manner of bearing Armes came from the French men unto us.) For, the younger sonnes of the Kings of France, even to the time wee now speake of, bare other coats than the Kings themselves did, as we may see in the family of Ver∣mandois, Dreux, and Courtney: and as Robert Duke of Burgundy, brother to Henrie the First,* 1.99 King of France, tooke unto him the ancient shield of the Dukes of Burgun∣die: so we may well thinke, that this Richard having received the Earledome of Poictou, from Henry the Third his brother, assumed unto him that Lyon gules crow∣ned, [ B] which belonged to the Earles of Poictou before him, (as the French writers doe record) and added thereto the border garnished with Besaunts, out of the ancient coat of the Earles of Cornwall. For so soone as the younger sonnes of the Kings of France began to beare the Armes of France with differences, semblably they did among us, and began first at Edward the First his children. But whither am I carried away from my purposed matter, as forgetting my selfe in the delight I take of mine owne studie, and profession? When Cornwall was thus reverted unto the Crowne, King Edward the Second, who had received from his father faire lands and possessions here, be∣stowed the title of Earle of Cornwall, upon Piers Gaveston a Gascon, who had ensna∣red his youth by the allurements of corrupt life: But when as hee for corrupting the [ C] Prince, and for other heinous crimes, was by the Nobles intercepted, and beheaded; there succeeded him Iohn of Eltham, a younger sonne of Edward the Second, advan∣ced thereto by his brother Edward the Third,* 1.100 who dying young, and without issue also, Edward the Third erected Cornwall into a Dukedome, and invested Edward his sonne a Prince most accomplished with martiall prowesse, in the yeare of Christ 1336. Duke of Cornwall, by a wreath on his head, a Ring upon his finger, and a silver verge. Since which time, that I may note so much under warrant of record, (let the skilfull Lawyers judge thereof) the King of Englands eldest sonne is reputed Duke of Corn∣wall by birth, and by vertue of a speciall Act, the very first day of his nativitie is pre∣sumed and taken to be of full and perfect age, so that he may sue that day for his live∣rie [ D] of the said Dukedome, and ought by right to obtaine the same, as well as if hee had beene full one and twentie yeares old:* 1.101 and he hath his Royalties in certaine actions, in Stannary matters, in wracks at sea, customes, &c. yea, and divers ministers or offi∣cers assigned unto him, for these and such like matters. But more plainly, and fully in∣structed are we in these points by Richard Carew of Anthony, a Gentleman innobled no lesse in regard of his Parentage, and descent, than for his vertue, and learning, who hath published, and perfected the description of this countrey more at large, and not in a slight, and meane manner, whom I must needs acknowledge to have given me much light herein. [ E]

There be in this Countie Parishes 161.

[ F]

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[illustration]
DEVONIAE Comitatus Vulgo Den Shyre quam olim DANMONII Populi Incoluerunt

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[ A]

DENSHIRE.

THe neerer or hithermore region of the Danmonians, that I speake of, is now commonly called Denshire, by the Cornish-Bri∣taines Deuinan, and by the Welsh Britaines Duffneint, that is, Low valleies, for that the people dwell for the most part be∣neath [ B] in vales: by the English Saxons Deven-〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, whereof grew the Latine name Devonia, and by that contraction, which the vulgar people useth, Denshire; and not of the Danes, as some smatterers of meane knowledge most stifly maintaine: a countrey which as it exten∣deth it selfe both waies wider than Cornwall, so is it harborous on either side with more commodious Havens, no lesse inriched with tin mines, especially West-ward; garnished with pleasanter medowes, sightly with greater store of woods, and passing well replenished with Townes, and buildings. But the soile in some places againe, is as leane, and barren: which not withstanding yieldeth fruit to the Husbandman plen∣teously, [ C] so that he be skilfull in husbandry, and both can take paines, and be able with∣all to defray the cost. Neither is there in all England almost any place where the ground requireth greater charges:* 1.102 For, in most parts thereof it groweth in manner barren, if it be not overstrewed, and mingled with a certaine sand from the Sea, which is of great efficacie to procure fertilitie, by quickning, as it were, and giving life unto the glebe: and therefore in places far from the shore it is bought at a deare rate.

In describing of this region, I will first travell over the West-side, as the river Ta∣mara runneth along, and then the South coast which bordereth on the Ocean: From whence by the Easterne bounds where it confineth upon Dorset, & Sommerset shires, I will returne backe unto the Northern, which is hemmed in with the Severne Sea.

Tamar which divideth these two shires, first on this part receiveth into it from [ D] the East a rivelet called Lid, which passeth by Coriton, and K. Sidenham small town∣lets, but which have given surnames to ancient, and worshipfull families, to Lidstow a little mercate Towne, and Lidford, now a small village, but in ancient time, a famous Towne, which in the yeare 997. was most grievously shaken, and dispoiled by the fu∣rious rage of the Danes, (which as it is written in that booke, whereby William the First tooke the survey and value of England) was not wont to be rated and asceased at any other time, nor otherwise than London was. That little river Lid, here at the bridge, gathered into a streight, and pent in between rocks, runneth downe amaine, and holloweth the ground daily more and more so deepe, that his water is not seene; only [ E] a roaring noise is heard to the great wonder of those that passe over.

Beneath it,* 1.103 Tamar receiveth Teave a little river, on which Teavistok, commonly cal∣led Tavistoke flourisheth, a town in times past famous for the Abbey there, which Or∣dulph, the son of Ordgare Earle of Devonshire, (admonished by a vision from heaven) built about the yeare of our Saviour Christ Dcccclxj. a place, as William of Malmes∣burie describeth it, Pleasant in regard of the groves standing so conveniently about it, and of the plenteous fishing there, for the handsome and uniforme building also of the Church, for the sewers from the river passing downe along by the houses of office, which runne with such a force of their owne, that they carry away with them all the superfluitie they find. Saint Rumon is much spoked of, and lies as Bishop there. There is to be seene also in the same Ab∣bey, the Sepulchre of that Ordgar before named: and the huge bignesse of his sonnes tomb, [ F] who was called Ordulph, is thought to be a rare thing worth the sight: for he was a man of a mighty stature giant like, and of exceeding great strength, as who was able to burst in sun∣der the bars of great gates, and to stride over the rivelet there, ten foote broad; if ye list to believe the said William. But scarcely had this Abbey stood thirty yeare after it was first founded, when the Danes in their spoyling rage burnt it to the ground: yet it flou∣rished againe, and by a laudable ordinance, lectures therein were kept of our anci∣ent

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language (I meane the English Saxon tongue) which continued even to our fa∣thers [ A] daies;* 1.104 for feare lest the said language (a thing that now is well neere come to passe) should be forgotten. Tamar having thus received the Teave, draweth now very neere unto his mouth, where he and the river Plime together fall into the Ocean: of which river the Towne adjoyning to it,* 1.105 is called Plimmouth: sometime named Sut∣ton: and seemeth to have consisted of two parts. For, we read in the Parliamentary Acts, of Sutton * 1.106 Vautort, and Sutton Prior, because it belonged partly to the family of the Vautorts, and partly to the Prior. Of late time it became of a poore fisher village to be a great Towne, and for the number of Inhabitants growne to that passe, (as now it is to be seene) that it may bee compared with a Citie. Such is the commodious∣nesse [ B] of the haven, which without striking saile admitteth into the bosome thereof the tallest ships that be, & doth harbour them very safely, as well within Tamar as Plime, and beside against hostilitie sufficiently fortified: For, before the very midst of the ha∣vens mouth, lieth S. Michaels Isle, strongly fortified both by nature, and art: as for the haven it selfe at the very Towne, it hath fortifications on both sides, and is chained over when need requireth, having on the South side a Pier against it, and upon an hill next adjoyning a Castle built, as it is thought, by the * 1.107 Vautorts. The whole Towne is divided into foure * 1.108 Wards, governed by a * 1.109 Major, ordained there by K. Henry the Sixth, and under him every ward had in times past a Captaine set over it, each of them likewise had his inferiour officers. As touching that fabulous wrestling betweene [ C] Corinaeus,* 1.110 and Gogmagog the Giant in this place, let it suffice to set downe a verse or two out of Architrenius concerning the same, and the Westerne Giants.

Hos, auidum belli robur Corinaeus Averno Praecipitis misit, cubitis ter quatuor altum Gogmagog Herculeâ suspendit in aere luctâ; Anthaeum{que} suum scopulo detrusit in aequor. Potavitque dato Thetis ebria sanguine fluctus, Diuisum{que} tulit mare corpus, Cerberus umbram. These martiall monsters, Giants strong, by Corinaeus slaine; With Gogmagog twelve cubits high, a combat did remaine: [ D] Whom up he hang'd twixt heaven and earth, (thus once Alcides hung Antaeus fell) and from the rock into the Sea him flung. His bloud gave Thetis the waves to drinke (her selfe therewith was drunke) His grisly ghost had Cerberus, when body torne was sunke.

As for that rock, from whence, they say, this Giant was cast down, it is now called the Haw: a very hill standing between the Town and the Ocean: on the top whereof, which lieth spred into a most pleasant plaine, there is a right delectable, and goodly prospect every way, and for the use of Sailers a very faire Compasse erected. The cir∣cuit of this Town not great, but much renowned it is among forraine nations: and not so much for the commodious haven, as the valour of the Inhabitants in sea services of [ E] all sorts.* 1.111 For (to say nothing of all others) from hence was Sir Francis Drake that fa∣mous Knight, and most skilfull man at sea in our daies; who first (as I have heard himselfe relate) to repaire the losses which he had sustained at the Spaniards hands, for two yeares space together with victorious successe held and kept the Bay of Mexico as it were besieged, and travailed over the * 1.112 Isthmus of Dariena: From whence when he had once beheld the South sea (as the Spaniards call it) as another Themistocles stirred up with the Trophees of Miltiades, thought hee should have neglected him∣selfe, his country, and his owne glory, unlesse he sailed over it, which continually pre∣sented it selfe as an object to his adventurous mind. In the yeare therefore 1577. put∣ting to sea from hence, he entred into the streits of Magellan, and in two yeares and [ F] ten moneths, through many alternative varieties of fortune, God being his guide, and valour his consort, was the next after Magellanus, that sailed round about the world. Whereupon, one wrote thus unto him.

Drake, pererrati novit quem terminus orbis, Quem{que} semel mundi vidit uter{que} polus.

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[ A] Si taceant homines, facient te sidera notum, Sol nescit comitis immemor esse sui. Sir Drake, whom well the worlds end knows, which thou did'st compasse round: And whom both poles of heaven once saw, which North and South doe bound: The Starres above will make thee knowne, if men here silent were, The Sunne himselfe cannot forget his fellow-travailler.

The rest of his noble exploits, and of others who descended from hence taking ex∣ample by him, flourished in glorious atchivements by sea, seeing it belongs not to this place, let Historians record in writing. Neither have I ought else to say more of [ B] this Towne, but that in the raigne of William * 1.113 Rufus, there flourished heere one Ealphege, a learned and married Priest. For, untill the yeare 1102. Priests in England were not forbidden to have their wives.* 1.114 Then, Anselme Archbishop of Canterbury violently forced both the sacred Scripture, and nature also, as our writers in those daies doe complaine, and namely, Henry of Huntingdon expresly of Anselme in these termes: He prohibited English Priests to have wives, who before-time were not prohibited. Which, as some thought to be a matter of greatest puritie: so others againe tooke it to be most perilous, lest while by this meanes they aimed at cleannesse above their power, they should fall into horrible uncleannesse, to the exceeding great shame of Christianitie.

More inward in the country, and yet not farre from the water of Plim, is Plimpton [ C] seated, a mercate Towne, well frequented, where the remnants, and deformed ruines of a Castle shew themselves: of which many men have holden as our Lawyers terme it, in Castle guard; for it was the chiefe seat of the Redversies, or the Riparii, (for both we read) who were Barons of Plimpton, and Earles of Denshire. Next unto this, stood Plimpton S. Mary, the glorie whereof then fell to decay, when as not long since the Colledge there of Canons was dissolved, which William Warlewast, Bishop of Ex∣ceter, in old time had founded. More, Eastward you see Modburie, a little Towne, which acknowledgeth it selfe to appertaine to the ancient and right worshipfull fa∣mily of the Campernulphs, Knights, who also are called in old Deeds De campo Ar∣nulphi, [ D] but commonly Champernouns, which received much advancement and repu∣tation by the heire of the Uautorts.

From Plims mouth,* 1.115 where the South shore of this region beginneth, the countrey runneth along with a large and great front as farre as to Stert, a cape or promontorie (for, so the word in the English Saxon tongue signifieth) but so soone as the shore hath drawne it selfe back land-ward, the river Dert breaketh out, which arising from the inward part of the country runneth downe apace, through certaine leane and high grounds, called thereupon Dertmore, (wherein of late were Lode stones found) and carrieth downe with it certaine grit, and sand out of the Tin-mines, (which by little and little choke up the channell) through the Forrest of Dortmore, where David [ E] of Sciredun held lands in Sciredun, and Siplegh, by this tenure or service, to find two ar∣rowes, when the King his soveraigne Lord should come to hunt in that Forrest: From thence by Dertinton▪ a Baronie sometimes of the Martins, who were Lords of Keimes in Wales,* 1.116 it holdeth in his streame unto Totnes. Which being an ancient lit∣tle Towne standing pendant upon the fall of an hill, East, and West, flourished some∣time in great honour. It paid no * 1.117 tribute, as we find in Doomesday, the survey-book of England, but when Exceter paid; and then it yielded xl. d. and did service, if any expediti∣on marched by land, or went by sea: and Totnes, Barnestaple and Lidford served and paid, as much as Exceter. King John granted unto it power to chuse a Major for the chiefe Magistrate: Edward the First enriched it with sundry liberties; and about that time it was fortified with a Castle by the Zouches, as the Inhabitants are perswaded. The [ F] possession it was in times past of one Iudaël, surnamed De Totnais; afterwards of William Briwer a right noble personage, by one of whose daughters it came to the Breoses, and from them by a daughter likewise to George De * 1.118 Cantelupo, Lord of A∣bergeveny, whose sister Melicent wedded unto Eudo De la Zouch,* 1.119 brought it in by her marriage to the family of the Barons La Zouches: and theirs it was, untill that John, Lord Zouch being attaint and proscribed, because hee tooke part with King Richard

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the Third, Henry the Seventh bestowed it franckly (as I have heard say) upon Peter [ A] Edgecombe a noble and wise gentleman. Adjoyning to this towne is Berie Pomerie, so called of the Pomeries a right noble house in those parts, which a little more East∣ward, and somewhat farther from the river side, had a very proper Castle of their owne. These derive their pedigree from Radulph Pomerie, who in William Conque∣rors time held Wich, Dunwinesdon, Brawerdine, Pudeford, Horewood, Toriland, Hele∣com, and this Berie, &c. Of this Totnes, the strond or shore adjoyning, was called in old time Totonese: where (as the British Historie saith) Brutus the founder of the British nation first landed, and Havillanus, as a Poet, relying thereon versified in this wise: [ B]

Inde dato cursu, Brutus comitatus Achate, Gallorum spoliis cumulatis navibus aequor Exarat, & superis, aura{que} faventibus usus, Littora foelices intrat Totonesia portus. Thence hoising sailes with Gaulish spoiles the fleet fraight sea doth take Our Brutus with his trustiest friend; and through waves way doth make: The Gods lookt cheerefull on his course, the wind he had at will; At Totnesse shore, that happy haven, arriv'd he and stood still.

But, that river Dert, whereof I spake, having passed beyond Totnes bridge, at which it leaveth whole heape of sands brought downe by his streame from out of [ C] the Tin mines, hath for prospect on both sides, nothing but fruitfull fields, untill hee come all weary with his long course, to his mouth; over which upon an hill reaching forth in length,* 1.120 standeth Dertmouth a Port Towne, by reason of the commodious haven, defended with two Castles, much frequented with Merchants and furnished with very good shipping. A Major it hath, by the grant of King Edward the Third. For Lords it acknowledged long since the Zouches, Nicolas of Teukesbury, and the Bri∣ents, according to the variable change of the times: and hath sundry times defended it selfe stoutly against the French: but especially in the yeare of Christ 1404. Mon∣sieur De Castell, a Frenchman, who by his men of warre and piracies had stopped all intercourse of traffique in those parts, and burnt Plimmouth, whiles hee invaded this place, was by women, and country people intercepted, and slaine with all his compa∣nie. [ D] And heere I must not passe over in silence Stoke Fleming that lieth hard by,* 1.121 and which taking that name of a noble man of Flanders, sometime Lord thereof, came by the daughter of Mohun to the Carewes.

From this place, as the shore giveth backe Northward, the sea followeth in upon it, and by that meanes with a large and spacious creeke, which taketh about ten miles in circuit maketh a bay, called now Torbay: a very safe rode and harbour for ships when the South-west wind is aloft;* 1.122 and hath fast by it a little village so called, where sometime the Briewrs dwelt, and built a religious house, who in the daies of King Ri∣chard the First,* 1.123 and King John, were men of great renowne and revenue: and after∣ward the habitation it was of the Wakes. Neere unto it is Cockington, where the fami∣ly [ E] of the Caries (a different house from that of the Carewes) hath flourished a long time in great honour and estimation;* 1.124 out of which the Barons of Hunsdon, concerning whom I will speake more in due place, are descended. A little higher appeares in sight Hacombe,* 1.125 the habitation in old time of Sir Iordan Fitz-Stephen Knight, surnamed of this place, de Hacombe: by whose daughter and heire Cecilie, it came into the fami∣lie of the Archdeacons; From which likewise by Hugh Courtney in processe of time, it was devolved upon the Carewes,* 1.126 whose house in these parts is reputed very wor∣shipfull, and spred into many branches. For, Jane the daugther of the said Hugh, and heire to her mother, being joyned in mariage to Nicolas Baron Carew, brought him many children: and when the eldest of them, named Thomas, used not his mother [ F] with such dutifull respect as a sonne ought, she made a conveyance of that great, and wealthy inheritance to her three younger sonnes (from whom those three families of the Carews, de Hacombe, Anthony, and Bery are sprung) and to Iohn Vere, a sonne that she had by a second husband, from whom the Earles of Oxford are issued.

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[ A] Then meet you with Teignemouth a little village at the mouth of the river Teigne, whereof it hath also the name: where the Danes that were sent before to discover the scituation of Britaine,* 1.127 and to sound the landing places, being first set a shore about the yeare of Salvation 800. and having slaine the governour of the place, tooke it as an ominous good token of future victorie; which indeed afterward they followed with extreme crueltie through the whole Island. More inward, neere unto the source of the river Teigne is Chegford seated, where flourished sometime the noble family of the Prows: then Chidley, which gave the name to that great house, and linage of the Chidleyes: and next unto the very mouth thereof, Bishops Teignton, so called because [ B] it belonged to the Bishops; in which because there was a Sanctuarie, Iohn Grandison descended out of Burgundy, Bishop of Exceter, as presaging what would ensue in future time built a very faire house, to the end that his Successors (these are the very words of his testament) might have a place whereon to leane, and lay their heads, if happi∣ly their Temporalities should be seized into the Kings hands. But so farre was it off that his purpose tooke effect, that his successors have not onely lost that house, but also beene quite desseized now well neere of all the rest.

About six miles from thence, the river * 1.128 Isc, whereof Ptolomee maketh mention, which the Britaines call Isc, and the English-Saxons Ex, with a large channell run∣neth into the Ocean. Whether it tooke this name of Iscaw, that signifieth in the Bri∣tish [ C] tongue Elders trees, I wot not. Some fetch it from Reeds, which the Britaines call Hesk,* 1.129 wherewith Northerne nations, (and such are the Britaines) thatched, and covered their houses, yea and fastened together, as it were, with soder, the joynts of their ships. But considering that there be no reeds heere found, I am not hasty to give credit thereto. This river hath his head, and springeth first in a weely, and bar∣ren ground named Exmore, neere unto Severn sea, a great part whereof is counted within Sommersetshire:* 1.130 and wherein, there are seene certaine monuments of anticke worke, to wit, Stones pitched in order, some triangle wise, others in a round circle: and one among the rest with an Inscription in Saxon letters, or Danish rather, to di∣rect those (as it should seeme) who were to travaile that way. Now this Ex or Isc be∣ginning [ D] his course first from thence Southward by Twifordton,* 1.131 so called of two foords, but commonly Teverton, a Towne standing much upon clothing, to the great gaine, and credit thereof, passeth forward through a faire country of good, and fertile fields, and is augmented with two especial rivelets, Creden from the West, and Columb from the East. Upon Creden in the Primitive Church of the Saxons, there flouri∣shed an Episcopall See, in a Towne of the same name, anciently called Cridiantun, now by contraction Kirton: where that Winifride or Boniface was borne, who converted the Hessians, Thuringers, and Frisians of Germany unto Christ, and for that was ac∣counted the Apostle of Germany, and canonized a Saint. At this present, it is of no great reckoning, but for a small market, and the Bishop of Exceter his house there: [ E] but within our fathers remembrance of much greater name, and request it was for a Colledge there of twelve Prebendaries, who now are all vanished and gone. The river Columb that commeth from the East, passeth hard by Columbton, a little Towne bearing his name: which King Alfred by his Testament, bequeathed to his younger sonne:* 1.132 and neere unto Poltimore the seate of that worshipfull, and right ancient family of Bampfield,* 1.133 intermingleth it selfe with the waters of Ex. And now by this time, Isc or Ex growing bigger, and sporting himselfe, as it were, with spreading into many streames, very commodious for mils, hieth apace, and commeth close to the Citie of Excester, unto which he leaveth his name: whereupon Alexander Necham writeth thus, in his Poem of Divine sapience:

[ F] Exoniae fama celeberimus Iscianomen Praebuit, — To Excester, Ex a River of fame (First Iscia call'd) impos'd the name.

This Citie Ptolomee calleth ISCA, Antoninus ISCA DVNMONIORVM, for DAN∣MONIORVM; others (but falsely) Augusta, as if the second Legion Augusta had there

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beene resident; Whereas, wee shall shew hereafter that it kept station, and residence in * 1.134 ISCA SILVRVM. The English Saxons termed it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and Monketon, of [ A] the Monks, at this day it is called Excester, in Latine Exonia, in British Caerisk, Cae∣auth, and Pencaer, that is, a head or principall Citie. For Caer, (to tell you once for all) with our * 1.135 Britans is as much to say, as a Citie, whereupon they use to name Jeru∣salem, Caer Salem; Lutetia or Paris, Caer Paris; Rome, Caer Ruffaine. Thus Carthage in the Punick tongue, was called, as Solinus witnesseth, Cartheia, that is, the new Citie. I have heard likewise, that Caer in the Syriack tongue, signified, a Citie. Now seeing that the Syrians, as all men confesse, peopled the whole world with their Colonies, it may seeme probable, that they left their tongue also to their posteritie, as the mother [ B] of all future languages. This Citie, as saith William of Malmesbury, albeit the soile ad∣joyning bee wet, foule and wealie, scarce able to bring forth hungry oates, and many times emptie huskes without graine in them, yet by reason of the statelinesse of the place, the riches of the Inhabitants, and frequent concourse of strangers, all kind of traffique, and com∣merce of merchants is there so fresh, that a man can aske there for no necessary, but hee may have it. Scituate it is on the Eastward banke of the river Ex, upon a little hill gently arising with an easie ascent to a pretty heighth, the pendant whereof lieth East, and West, environed about with ditches, and very strong walles, having many turrets orderly interposed, and containeth in circuit a mile and a halfe, having suburbs run∣ning out a great way on each side. In it there are xv. Parish-Churches, and in the [ C] very highest part thereof, neere the East gate, a Castle called Rugemont, sometime the seat of the West Saxon Kings, and afterwards of the Earles of Cornwall: but at this day commended for nothing else, but the antiquitie and scituation thereof. For it commandeth the whole Citie, and territorie about it, and hath a very pleasant pro∣spect into the sea. In the East quarter of the City, is to be seen the Cathedrall Church in the midst of many faire houses round about it, founded as the private history of the place witnesseth, by King Athelstan in the honour of Saint Peter, and replenished with Monks: which Church at length Edward the Confessor after he had remoo∣ved some of the Monks from thence to Westminster, and translated thither the Bi∣shops Sees of Cornwall, and Kirton, adorned with Episcopall Dignitie, and made [ D] Leofrike the Britan first Bishop there: whose Successours augmented the Church both with Edifices, and also with revenues: and William Bruier the ninth Bishop af∣ter him, when the Monks were displaced, brought in a Deane, and twentie and foure Prebendaries. In which age flourished Joseph Iscanus borne heere, and from hence taking his surname, a Poet of most excellent wit, whose writings were so well ap∣proved, as that they had equall commendation with the works of ancient Poets: For, his Poem of the Trojan war, was divulged once or twice in Germanie under the name of Cornelius Nepos.* 1.136

When this Citie * 1.137 Isca came under the Roman Jurisdiction it appeareth not for certaine: For, so farre off am I from thinking that Vespasian wonne it, (as Geffrey [ E] of Monmouth affirmeth) what time as he warring in Britaine under Claudius the Em∣perour, was shewed by the Destinies unto the world, that I thinke it was then scarce∣ly built. Yet in the time of the Antonines, it may seeme to have beene well knowne: for hither, and no farther this way did Antonine specifie any place in his way-faring book. It came not fully to the English-Saxons hands before the 465. yeare after their entrance into Britain.* 1.138 For, at that time Athelstane expelled the Britans quite out of the Citie, who before had inhabited it in equall right with the Saxons, yea, and drave them beyond Tamar, and then fortified the Citie round about with a rampire, and wall of fouresquare stone, and other bulwarks for defence. Since which time, ma∣ny benefits by the Kings have beene bestowed upon it, and among the rest, as we read [ F] in William the Conquerours * 1.139 booke, This Citie paide no tribute, but when London, Yorke, and Winchester paide, and that was halfe a marke of silver for a souldiers service. And when there was any expedition set out either by sea or land, it served in proportion to five hides. It hath beene likewise from time to time much afflicted, once spoiled and sore shaken, by the furious outrages of the Danes, in the yeare of our redemp∣tion

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[ A] 875. but most grievously by Suen the Dane in the yeare 1003. at which time by the treacherie of one Hugh a Norman Governor of the citie, it was raced and ruined along from the East gate to the West. And scarcely began it to flourish againe, when William the Conquerour, most straightly beleaguered it: when the Citizens in the meane while thought it not sufficient to shut their gates against him, but malapart∣ly let flie taunts, and flouts at him: but when a piece of their wall fell downe, by the speciall hand of God, as the Historians of that age report, they yielded immediatly thereupon. At which time, as we find in the said survey-booke of his, The King had in this Citie three hundred houses: it paid fifteene pounds by the yeare, and fortie houses were [ B] destroyed after that the King came into England. After this it was thrice besieged, and yet it easily avoided all: First, by Hugh Courtney Earle of Denshire in that civill warre betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke: then, by Perkin Warbecke that imaginarie, counterfeit and pretended Prince, who being a young man of a very base condition, faining himselfe to be Richard Duke of Yorke, the second sonne of King Edward the Fourth, stirred up dangerous stirres against Henrie the Seventh: thirdly, by seditious Rebels of Cornwall, in the yeare of Christ 1549: at which time the Citizens, most grievously pinched though they were with scarcitie of all things, continued neverthelesse in their faith and allegeance, untill that Iohn Lord Russell, [ C] raised the siege, and delivered them.

But Excester received not so great damage at these enemies hands, as it did by cer∣taine dammes, which they call Weares, that Edward Courtney Earle of Denshire, taking high displeasure against the Citizens, made in the river Ex, which stop the passage so, that no vessell can come up to the Citie; but since that time all mer∣chandize is carried by land from Topesham three miles off. And albeit it hath beene decreed by Act of Parliament,* 1.140 to take away these Weares, yet they continue there still. Hereupon, the little Towne adjoyning is call Weare, being aforetime named, Heneaton: which was sometime the possession of Augustine de Baa: from whom in right of inheritance it descended to Iohn Holland, who in his signet which my selfe [ D] have seene bare a Lion rampant,* 1.141 gardant among flowers de Lys. The civill govern∣ment of this Citie is in the power of foure and twenty persons: out of whom there is from yeare to yeare a Major elected; who with foure Bailiffes ruleth heere the State. As touching the Geographicall description of this place, the old tables of Oxford have set downe the longitude thereof to bee nineteene degrees, and eleven scruples: the latitude fiftie degrees, and fortie scruples or minutes.

This Citie;* 1.142 that I may not omit so much, hath had three Dukes. For, Richard the Second of that name, King of England, created Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon and his brother by the mothers side, the first Duke of Excester: whom Henrie the Fourth deposed from this dignitie, and left unto him the name onely of Earle of Hun∣tingdon: [ E] and soone after for conspiracie against the King he lost both it and his life by the hatchet. Some few yeares after, Henry the Fifth set in his place Thomas Beaufort of the house of Lancaster,* 1.143 and Earle of Dorset, a right noble and worthy warriour. When he was dead leaving no issue behind him, John Holland sonne of that aforesaid John, (as heire unto his brother Richard who died without children, and to his father both) being restored to his bloud, by the favour and bounty of King Henry the Sixth recovered his fathers honor; and left the same to Henry his sonne, who so long as the Lancastrians stood upright, flourished in very much honor; but af∣terwards when the family of Yorke, was a float and had rule of all, gave an example to teach men, how ill trusting it is to great Fortunes. For this was that same Henry, Duke of Excester,* 1.144 who albeit he had wedded King Edward the Fourth his sister, was [ F] driven to such miserie, that he was seene all tottered, torne, and barefooted to begge for his living in the Low countries. And in the end after Barnet field fought, wherein he bare himselfe valiantly against Edward the Fourth, was no more seene, untill his dead bodie (as if he had perished by Shipwracke) was cast upon the shore of Kent. A good while after this, Henry Courtney, Earle of Denshire, the sonne of Ka∣tharine daughter to King Edward the Fourth, was advanced to the honour of Mar∣quesse

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of Excester by Henry the Eighth,* 1.145 and designed heire apparant. But this Mar∣quesse [ A] as well as the first Duke was by his high parentage, cast into a great tempest of troubles, wherein as a man subject to suspitions, and desirous of a change in the State, he was quickly overthrowne. And among other matters because he had with money, and counsell assisted Reginald Poole (afterwards Cardinall) then a fugitive; practising with the Emperour and the Pope, against his owne Country, and the King who had now abrogated the Popes authoritie; he was judicially arraigned, and being condem∣ned, with some others,* 1.146 lost his head. But now of late by the favour of King Iames, Thomas Cecill Lord Burleigh, enjoyeth the title of Earle of Excester, a right good man, and the worthy sonne of so excellent a father, being the eldest sonne of William [ B] Cecill Lord Burleigh, high Treasurer of England, whose wisedome for a long time was the support of peace, and Englands happy quietnesse.

From Excester, going to the very mouth of the River, I find no monument of Antiquitie, but Exminster, sometime called Exanminster, bequeathed by King El∣fred to his younger sonne;* 1.147 and Pouderham Castle built by Isabell de * 1.148 Ripariis, the seat long time of that most noble family of the Courtneys, Knights: who being lineally descended from the stocke of the Earles of Denshire, and allied by affinitie to most honorable houses, flourish still at this day, most worthy of their descent from so high Ancestors. Under Pouderham, Ken a pretty brooke entreth into Ex, which riseth neere Holcombe,* 1.149 where in a Parke is a faire place built by Sir Thomas Denis, whose [ C] family fetcheth their first off-spring and surname from the Danes, and were ancient∣ly written Le Dan Denis, by which name the Cornish called the Danes. But lower upon the very mouth of the river on the other banke side, as the name it selfe doth testifie,* 1.150 standeth Exanmouth; knowne by nothing else but the name, and for that some fishermen dwelt therein.

* 1.151More Eastward, Otterey, that is, The River of Otters, or River-Dogs, which we call Otters, as may appeare by the signification of the word, falleth into the sea; which runneth hard under Honnyton,* 1.152 a Towne not unknowne to those that travell into these parts, and was given by Isabell, heire to Earles of Devonshire, to King Edward the First, when her issue failed: and doth import his name to certaine places. Among [ D] which these are of greatest note: above Honnyton, Mohuns Ottery, the possession in times past of the Mohuns, from whom by right of marriage it came to the Carews: beneath Honyton Saint Maries Otterey, so called of Saint Maries Colledge, which Iohn Grandison Bishop of Excester founded, who drew the whole estates of all the Clergie men in his Diocesse to himselfe. For he perswaded them in their Wils to give up, and make over all that they had unto his hands, as who would bestow the same to godly uses, in endowing Churches, and in building of Hospitals, and Colledges therewith, which verily he (by report) performed accordingly very devoutly.

From the mouth of this Otterey, the shore runneth Eastward with many winding reaches, and turning creekes, by Budley, Sidmouth, and Seaton, famous Ports in times [ E] past, but now the havens there are so choked up with sand, brought in with the reci∣procall course of the tides, and heaped up against them, that they have almost utter∣ly lost all that benefit.* 1.153 As for Seaton, I would ghesse it to bee that MORIDVNVM, which Antoninus speaketh of, and is placed betweene DVRNOVARIA and ISCA, (if the booke be not faultie) and called in Peutegerius table by a name cut short, RIDV∣NVM, considering both the distance, and the signification of the name. For, Mori∣dunum in the British tongue is the very same that Seaton in English, to wit, A Towne upon an hill by the Sea.* 1.154 Hereto adjoyneth Wiscomb, a Towne memorable in this respect that in it there dwelt William Lord Bonevill, whose heire Cecilie by her mariage brought the titles of Lord Bonevill,* 1.155 and Harington with a goodly inheritance in these [ F] parts, unto Thomas Grey Marquesse Dorset.

Under these Townes the River Ax dischargeth it selfe at a very small chan∣nell, after it hath passed downe by Ford, where Adelize daughter to Baldwine of Okchampton,* 1.156 founded an Abbey for Cistercian Monkes, 1140. and by Axanminster, a Towne renowned in the ancient Histories onely for their Tombes of the Saxon

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[ A] Princes, who were slaine in that bloudy battell at Brunaburg, and translated hither; and scituate it is in the very frontire and limit of this Province. Neere unto which Reginald Mohun of Dunster, unto whom the Mannour of Axminster in right of inhe∣ritance fell by the Fourth daughter of William de Briewr,* 1.157 built the Abbey of Newen∣ham in the yere of Grace 1246. Hence the East-bound runneth crookedly north-west∣ward, by villages of no fame toward Severn side; along wch now let us take our way.

From Cornwall the first shore in this shire that stretcheth out it selfe in length to the Severn Sea,* 1.158 is by Ptolomee called, THE PROMONTORIE OF HERCVLES, and retaineth still some little remnant of that name, being called at this day Herty∣poinct, [ B] and hath in it two pretty townes, Herton, and Hertlond, famous in old time for the reliques of that holy man Saint Nectan.* 1.159 In honour of whom there was erected heere a little Monasterie, by Githa Earle Goodwins wife, who had this Nectan in especiall reverence,* 1.160 for that she was perswaded, that for his merits her husband had escaped the danger of shipwracke in a violent and raging tempest. Howbeit after∣wards, the Dinants, who also are named Dinhams, that came out of Bretagne in France, whose demeans, as in ee it was, were counted the founders thereof: and from them descended Baron Dinham,* 1.161 Lord high Treasurer of England, under K. Henry the Se∣venth, by whose sisters, and heires, the inheritance was divided between Lord Zouch, Bourchier Fitz-warin, Carew, and Arundell.

[ C] The name of this Promontorie hath given credit to a very formall tale, That Hercules (forsooth) came into Britaine,* 1.162 and vanquished here I wot not what Giants. But if it be true as * 1.163 Mythologers affirme, that there was never any Hercules, but that by him the power of humane wisedome is understtod, whereby wee overcome pride, lust, envie, and such like monsters: or if, according to the Gentiles divinitie, by Hercules they meane the Sunne, and by those twelve Labours, endured and per∣formed by Hercules, the twelve signes of the Zodiack, which the Sunne in his yearely course passeth through; what it is they say, let them looke to it themselves. But for mine owne part, I willingly believe that there was an Hercules, nay, I could be con∣tent to grant with Varro, that there were of them fortie and three, all whose acts were [ D] ascribed to that Hercules, who was the sonne of Alcmena; yet can I not perswade my selfe, that ever Hercules came hither, unlesse haply hee sailed over the Ocean in that Cup which God Nerius had given him, whereof Athenaeus maketh mention. But you will say, that Franciscus Philelphus in his Epistles, and Lilius Giraldus in his Hercules, averre no lesse. Pardon mee, I pray you; these latter writers may well moove mee, but they are not able to remoove mee, considering that Diodorus Si∣culus, who went on with the Greekish historie in order, even from the most remote, and first records of all Antiquitie, in plaine termes affirmeth, that neither Hercules, nor Father Bacchus went ever into Britaine. I am therefore verily perswaded, that [ E] the name of Hercules even to this place, came either through the vanitie of Greekes, or from the superstitious Religion of Britaines. For, as these beeing a most warlike Nation themselves, had valiant men in marvellous admiration, and as highly esteemed of such as vanquished Monsters: so, the Greekes againe, what∣soever was any where stately, and magnificent, that they referred to the glory of Hercules: and because hee had beene a great traveller, such as travelled were wont to offer sacrifice unto him; and to him likewise consecrate the places where they first arrived. Hereof came Hercules-rocke in * 1.164 Campania, Hercules Hauen in * 1.165 Liguria, Her∣cules Grove in Germanie: hence likewise, the Promontories of Hercules in Mauritania, Galatia, and Britaine.

As the shore giveth backe againe from this Promontorie of Hercules, the two [ F] Rivers, Towridge, and Taw, which are the onely Rivers in this north part of the Coun∣tie, discharge themselves into the sea at one mouth. Towridge springing not farre from Henry poinct above said, runneth South-Eastward, and taking into him the river Ock, whereof Ock-hampton a little market towne tooke the name, where Baldwine the Vicount had his Castle in William the Conquerour time (as appeareth out of Domesday booke) from whom it descended to the Courtneys; suddenly turning

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his channell maketh way Northward,* 1.166 insulating in a manner Potheridge the Mansion [ A] of the Familie, surnamed, Monke. Happily for that some one of them being a professed Monke by dispensation to continue his house, returned to temporall state; as that Noble house in France surnamed Archevesque, that is, Archbishop, tooke that name to continue the memorie that one of the Progenitours of an Archbishop, re∣turned by dispensation to be a Temporall man. Certainely, whencesoever the name came, it is ancient, and they have worshipfully matched, and not long since with one of the daughters of Arthur Plantagenet, Vicount Lisley, naturall sonne to King Ed∣ward the Fourth. Hence Towridge hastneth to Tourington▪ which it giveth name unto,* 1.167 standing over it in a great length upon the brow of a little hill: by Bediford al∣so, [ B] a towne of right good name for the frequent resort of people, and number of Inha∣bitants, as also for a goodly stone bridge, with arched worke, where straight waies it windeth it selfe into the Taw. This Taw breaking forth out of the very midst and hart of the shire, first runneth downe by Chimligh a little market towne, not far from Chet∣tlehampton a small Village, where Hyertha, canonized a Shee-Saint, lay interred: from thence having passed by Tawton, where Werstane, and Putta, the first Bishops of Denshire had their See, about the yeare of our Lord 906. and Tawstoke over a∣gainst it,* 1.168 now the seate of the right honourable Earle of Bathe, it maketh haste to Berstaple. Reputed this is a very ancient Towne, and for elegant building, and frequen∣cie of people held chiefe in all this coast, scituate amidst hilles in forme of a semicircle [ C] upon the river, being as it were, a diameter. Which River at every change and full of the Moone, by the swelling of the Ocean, overfloweth the fields so, as the very Towne it selfe seemeth to be a demie Island: but when, (as one saith) * 1.169 the sea reengor∣geth it selfe backe againe into the sea, it is so shallow, creeping betweene sands and shelves, as it hardly beareth smaller vessels. On the south side it hath a stately bridge built by one Stamford a Citizen of London: In the North part, where North Ewe a little river or brooke runneth, are seene the reliques of a Castle, which by the com∣mon report, King Athelstane, but (as others say) Iudaël of Totenais built: for the kee∣ping, and defence whereof certaine Lands adjoyning thereabout, are held in Castle∣guard. It had sometimes a wall about it, but now there remaine scarce any small to∣kens thereof: The said Iudaël of Totenais received it in free gift in fee of King Willi∣am [ D] the First: after him the Tracies held it for a long time: then, the Martins: after whom in the raigne of King Richard the Second, it came to Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon, who afterwards was Duke of Excester; and last of all it fell to the Crowne. But Queene Mary gave the Mannour to Thomas Marrow, whose son sold it away. In K. William the First his daies, as we find in Domesday booke, It had with∣in the Burgh fortie Burgesses, and nine without. King Henrie the First, endowed it with many priviledges, and King John with more. A Major, and two Bailiffes for a long time it had: but Queene Mary ordained there a Major, two Aldermen, and a Coun∣sell of twentie and foure. The Inhabitants (for the most part) are Merchants, who in France, and Spaine trade, and traffique much. Neither must this be passed over with [ E] silence, that out of this Towns-Schoole, their issued two right learned men, and most renowned Divines,* 1.170 John Jewell Bishop of Sarisbury, and Thomas Harding the pub∣like professour in Lovain, who most hotly contended, and wrote learnedly one against the other, concerning the truth of Religion.

* 1.171From hence, the river Ta saluting (as it were) Ralegh, which in times past had noble Lords of that name, but now is the possession of a right worshipfull house, sur∣named Chichester: and afterwards encreased by Towbridge water, falleth into the Se∣verne Sea,* 1.172 but it meeeth nor with Kinwith Castle, whereof Asserius maketh men∣tion. For, here abou such a Castle there was of that name, for scite of the ground about it, very safe on every side, save onely on the East quarter: at the which in the [ F] yeare of Christ, 70. Hubba the Dane, who with many slaughters and overthrowes had harried the English Nation, was (with many other Danes) slaine. And thereupon the place afterwards was called by our Historiographers; Hubbestow. And then it was that the Englishmen wan the Danes banner,* 1.173 called, Reafan. Which, I note there∣fore

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[ A] the rather, because it may be gathered out of a pretty tale in Asserius Meneven∣is, who hath delivered these things in writing, that the Danes bare in their Ensigne a Raven wrought (by report) in needle-worke, by the daughters of Lothbrooke, that is, Leather-breech, the Dane, with such an opinion of good lucke, as they thought that it never should be wonne.

After this, nothing there is to bee seene upon this coast but Ilfarcomb, a good and sure rode for ships, and Comb-Marton bordering hard upon it: under which, old mines of lead, not without veines of silver, have of late beene discovered. As for this word Comb,* 1.174 (to observe so much once for all) which is an usuall adjection to names of pla∣ces [ B] in this tract, it signifieth, a low scituation, or a Vale: and derived it may seeme to be of Kum a British word, that betokeneth the same: and the French men in their tongue retaine it still in the very same sense, from the ancient Gallique language, the same with old British.

More South-East from hence,* 1.175 and neere unto Somersetshire Bampton, sometimes Baentun, sheweth it selfe: which under William the Conquerour befell unto Walter de Doway,* 1.176 with other right large and faire lands else-where: of whose posteritie Iuli∣ana an Inheritrix, married to William Paganell, commonly Paynell, bare * 1.177 Fulk de Bampton: and he begat William, and Christian the wife of Cogan of Ireland whose posteritie succeeded in the possession thereof; for that the issue of the said William [ C] died without children. But from the Cogans, the possession descended at length he∣reditarily unto the Bourchiers now Earles of Bathe, by an heire of Hancford, who had married likewise an heire of the Lord Fitz-warin.

In the prime and infancie of the Normans Empire,* 1.178 (to say nothing of Hugh the Norman whom Queene Emnia had before time made Ruler over this countrey) King William the First ordained one Baldwine to be the hereditarie Sheriffe, or Vi∣count of Denshire, and Baron of Okchampton: after whom succeeded in that honour Richard his sonne,* 1.179 who died without issue male. Then, King Henrie the First, be∣stowed upon Richard de * 1.180 Redveriis, First Tiverton, and afterwards the honour of Plimp∣ton [ D] with other places appurtaining thereto: and consequently created him Earle of Denshire, by granting unto him the third penie of the yearely revenues growing out of the same Coun∣tie. Now the revenue of the Countie which in those daies was due to the King, was not above thirtie marks: out of which, the said Earle tooke unto him for his part, ten markes yearely. After this hee obtained of the said King, the Isle of Wight: whereupon stiled hee was, Earle of Denshire, and Lord of the Isle. Hee had a Sonne named Baldwin, who siding with Maude the Empresse against King Stephen was banished the Realme. Howbeit, Richard his Sonne recovered this honour of his Fathers: and hee left be∣hind him two Sonnes, Baldwin, and Richard, who in order successively were Earles of Denshire, and died without issue. The honour therefore reverted backe againe [ E] to their unkle by their fathers side, named, William, surnamed, de Vernon, because he was there borne. This William begat Baldwin, who departed this life before his father: yet before his death, he had begotten of Margaret, daughter to Gwarin Fitz-Gerold, Baldwine the third of that name, Earle of Denshire. This Baldwin had two children, to wit, Baldwin the last Earle out of this family, that died without issue 1261. who changed the Ghryphon, clasping and crushing a little beast, (which mark his Ancestours used in their seale) into a Scutcheon, or with a Lyon rampant, azur, and * 1.181 Isabell, who being espoused to William * 1.182 de Fortibus, Earle of Albemarle, bare to him a Sonne, named Thomas, who died soone after, and Avellina a daughter ma∣ried to Edmund Earle of Lancaster, whom she mightily enriched, with the inheri∣tance of her father, and died issulesse. After some time, King Edward the Third, by his [ F] letter missive onely,* 1.183 without any other complement of ceremonies, created Hugh Courtney, Earle of Devonshire, and linked as cousin, and next heire to the said Isabel. For he commanded him by vertue of those missives, to use that title, and by a precept to the high Sheriffe of the Shire, commanded he should be so acknowledged. Regi∣nald Courtney was the first of this family that came into England, brought hither by King Henry the Second, and by him advanced with the marriage of the heire of

Page 208

the Baronie of Okchampton, for that he procured the marriage betweene the said King, [ A] and Eleonor his heire of Poictu and Aquitaine. But whether hee was branched from the house of Courtney before it was matched in the bloud royall of France, or after which our Monks affirme, but Du Tillet Keeper of the Records of France doubt∣eth, I may say somewhat in another place. After the first Earle Hugh, succeeded his sonne Hugh; whom Edward his Grand-child, by Edward his Sonne followed, who died before him; and when he died, he left it to his sonne Hugh: and hee likewise to Thomas his sonne, who died in the thirtieth and sixth yeare of King Henry the sixth his raigne. The said Thomas begat three sonnes, namely, Thomas, Henrie, and Iohn: whose estate during the heate of those mortall dissensions betweene the houses [ B] of Lancaster and Yorke, was much tossed and shaken, whiles they stood resolutely and stiffely for the Lancastrians. Thomas taken at Towton field, was beheaded at Yorke: Henry his brother, and Successour seven yeares after, dranke of the same cup at Salisburie.* 1.184 And although King Edward the Fourth, advanced Sir Humfrey Staf∣ford of Suthwicke to the Earledome of Denshire, who within three moneths revol∣ting from King Edward his advancer most ingratefully, was apprehended, and with∣out processe executed at Bridg water: yet Iohn Courtney aforesaid, the youngest brother, would not leave this title, but with his life, which hee lost in the battell of Tewksbury. For a long time after, this family lay in some sort obscured: yet under King Henrie the Seventh, it reflourished: for, hee advanced againe Edward Courtney, [ C] the next heire male unto the honors of his Progenitors. He begat William Earle of Devonshire, who matched in wedlocke with Katherine, daughter to King Edward the Fourth: of whom he begat Henry Earle of Devonshire, and Marquesse withall of Excester, who under King Henry the Eighth, lost his head, as we have now shewed: whose Sonne Edward was restored againe by Queene Mary, a most noble young Gentleman, and of passing good hope, but he died an untimely death at Padua in Italie: for, the best men (as saith Quadrigarius) are of least continuance. In the fortieth and sixth yeare after his death,* 1.185 King Iames gave the honorable title of Earle of Devonshire, to Charles Blunt Lord Mountjoy, and Lieutenant Generall of Ireland; which title he affected, as descended from a Cosin, and heire of Humfrey Stafford Earle of Devonshire. Hee was a worthy personage, as well for martiall prowesse, and ornaments of learning, as [ D] for ancient nobilitie of birth: for that he had recovered Ireland into the former good estate, by driving out the Spaniards, and by subduing or enforcing the Rebels to sub∣mission: Him (I say) he created Earle of Devonshire, him hee heaped with favours, and according to the bountifull munificence of a King mightily enriched. But within a small while, death envied him the fruition both of honour and wealth, which hee enjoyed as few yeares, as his Predecessour Humfrey Stafford did moneths.

[ E]

There be contained in this Countie Parish-Churches 394.

[ F]

Notes

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