Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

[ A]

BRIGANTES.

[ B] BRITAINE, which hitherto hath, as it were, launched out with huge Promontories, looking on the one side toward Germanie, on the other side toward Ireland, now as if it were afraid of the Sea violently inrushing upon it with∣draweth it selfe farther in, and by making larger separati∣ons of lands retireth backe, gathered into a farre narrower breadth. For, it is not past one hundred miles broad from coast to coast, which on both sides passe on in a maner with straight and direct shores Northward, as [ C] farre as to Scotland. All this part well neere of the Island, while the Romane Empire stood upright and flourished in Britaine, was inhabited by the BRI∣GANTES. For, Plinie writeth, that they dwelt from the East Sea to the West. A nation this was right valiant, populous withall, and of especiall note among ancient Authors,* 1.1 who all doe name them, BRIGANTES, unlesse it be Stephanus onely, in his booke Of Cities; who called them BRIGAE: in which place, that which he wrote of them is defective at this day in the bookes, by reason that the sentence is imperfect. If I should thinke that these were called [ D] Brigantes, of Briga, which in the ancient Spanish tongue signified A Citie, I should not satisfie my selfe; seeing it appeareth for certaine out of Strabo, that it is a meere Spanish word. If I were of opinion with Goropius that out of the Low Dutch tongue, they were termed Brigantes, as one would say Free∣hands, should I not obtrude upon you his dreames for dainties? Howsoever the case standeth, our Britanes, or Welsh-men, if they see any of a bad disposition, and audaciously playing lawlesse and lewde parts, use to say of them by way of a [ E] common merry quippe, Wharret Brigans, that is, They play the Brigants. And the French-men at this day, alluding as it seemeth to the ancient language of the Gaules, usually terme such lewde fellowes Brigans like as Pirats Ships, Brigantins.* 1.2 But whether the force of the word was such in old time in the Gaules or Britanes language, or whether our Brigantes were such like men, I dare not determine. Yet, if my memory faile me not, Strabo calleth the Brigan∣tes (a people about Alpes) Grassatores, that is, Robbers, and Iulius a Belgian a young man of desperate boldnesse, who counted power, authority, honestie, and vertue to be nothing but naked names, is in Tacitus surnamed Briganticus. [ F] With which kinde of vice, our old Brigantes may seeme to have been tainted, when they so robbed and spoiled the neighbour inhabitants, that the Emperour Antoninus Pius for this cause tooke away a great part of their Country from

them, as Pausanias witnesseth, who writeth thus of them: 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 [ A] that is, Antoninus Pius cut the Brigantes in Britaine short, of a great part of their Country, because they began to take armes and in hostile maner to invade Genunia, a Region subject to the Romanes. Neither will any, I hope, take this as a reproach: Surely I should seeme farre unlike my selfe, if I fell now to taxe ignominiously any private person, much lesse a Nation. Nei∣ther was this counted a reproachfull imputation in that warlike age, when all Nations reckoned that their right, which they could winne, or hold by might [ B] and dint of sword. Roberies, saith Caesar, among the Germans are not no∣ted with infamie, such I meane as are committed without the borders of every State, and they allow the practise thereof to exercise their youth withall, and to keepe them from idlenesse. And for a reason not unlike, the Paeones, among the Greekes are so called, quia Percussores, that is, be∣cause they were cutters:* 1.3 The Quadi among the Germans, and the Chaldaei likewise, are reported to have gotten those names, because they used to robbe and kill. [ C]

Now, in that Florianus Del-Campe, a Spaniard, hath with too much af∣fectation derived our Brigantes from Spaine into Ireland, and from thence into Britaine, grounding upon no other conjecture, but that he found the Citie Bri∣gantia in his owne country Spaine; he hath I feare me, swarved from the truth. For in case our Brigantes and those in Ireland had not the same name both for one cause, I had rather with my friend, the right learned Thomas Savil judge, that as well diuers of our Brigantes, as also other nations of Britaine, from the first comming of the Romanes hither, departed into Ireland, some for [ D] desire of quietnesse and ease; others, that the Lordly dominion of the Romanes might not be an eye-sore unto them:* 1.4 and others againe, because they would not by their good will loose that libertie in their old age, which by nature they were endowed with in their childhood. But that Claudius the Emperour was the first of all the Romanes who set upon these our Brigantes, and brought them under the Romane dominion, Seneca in his Play sheweth by these verses:

Ille Britannos [ E] Ultra noti littora Ponti & caerueleos Scuta Brigantes, dare Romulaeis colla catenis Jussit, & ipsum nova Romanae jura securis Tremere Oceanum. The Brigants such as seated are beyond the knowne Sea-coast, And Brigants with blew painted shields, he forced with his hoast, To yeeld their necks in Romane chaines, as captive to be led; And even the Ocean this new power of Romane-ax to dred. [ F]

And yet I have been of this minde, that they were not then conquered, but committed themselves rather into the tuition and protection of the Romanes. For, that which he Poetically endited, the Historiographers doe not mention.

[ A] And Tacitus recordeth how by occasion at that time of certaine discords risen among the Brigantes, Ostorius who now made preparation for new warres, was hindered and pulled backe, which he with the execution of a few, easily ap∣peased. At which time, the Brigantes had Cartismandua, a right noble and puis∣sant Lady for their Queene, who intercepted Caratacus, and delivered him in∣to the Romanes hands. Herevpon ensued wealth of wealth and prosperitie, ri∣otous and incontinent life: in so much, as forsaking her Husband Venutius his bed, she joyned her selfe in marriage with Vellocatus his Esquire, and made [ B] him King. Which foule fact was the overthrow shortly after of her house, and thereby a bloudy and mortall warre was enkindled. The love and affection of the Country went generally with the lawfull Husband, but the Queenes untem∣perate lust and cruelty were peremptory, in maintaining the adulterer. She, by craftie plots and mischievous meanes intercepteth the Brother and kinsfolke of Venutius. Venutius againe for his part pricked forward with shamefull dis∣grace, by the helpe of friends whom he procured, and the rebellion withall of the Brigantes themselves,* 1.5 brought Cartismandua into great extremities. Then, [ C] upon her instant unto the Romanes for aide, Garisons were set, Cohorts and wings o•• foot and horse were sent, which after sundry skirmishes with vari∣able event delivered her person out of perill: yet so, as that the Kingdome re∣mained to Venutius, and the warre with the Romanes: who were not able to subdue the Brigantes before the time of Vespasian. For, then Petilius Cere∣alis having invaded this Country, fought many battailes, and some of them very bloudy: and either conquered, or else wasted a great part of the Brigantes▪ [ D] Whereas Tacitus writeth, that this Queene of the Brigantes delivered Cara∣cus prisoner unto Claudius the Emperor, there is in that excellent author a ma∣nifest 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.6 and the same noted a good while since by Iustus Lipsius deepe∣ly insighted in understanding old authors. For, neither was this Caratacus Prince of the Silures and Ordevices led in pompe at that triumph of Claudi∣us, nor yet Caratacus the Sonne of Cunobelinus (for so is he called in the Romane Fasti, whom Dio nameth Catacratus.) Of whom Aulus Plautius, if not in the very same yeere, yet in the next following triumphed by way of [ E] Ovation. But let others sift out these matters, and thereof I have already said somewhat. In the Emperour Hadrians time, when, as Aelius Spartianus saith, The Britaines could not be contained under the Romanes domi∣nion, it may seeme that these our Brigantes revoited from the Romanes and made a turbulent insurrection. For, had it not been so, there was no cause why Iuvenall who then lived should thus write.

Dirue Maurorum attegias, & castra Brigantum.

[ F] Downe with the Moores sheepe cotes and folds, Downe with the Brigantes forts and holds.

Neither afterward in the time of Antoninus Pius, was their courage, as it [ A] may seeme, very much abated, when he tooke away part of their territories from them, because they had made rodes, as I have said before, into Genunia, or Gui∣nethia, a Province confederate with the Romanes.

If I durst by our Critickes good leave (who in these daies presuming so much of their great wits are supercriticall) me thinks, I could heere cleare Ta∣citus of a fault or two, which sitteth close to him, as concerning the Brigantes. The one is in the twelfth Booke of his Annales, where I would reade, (for Ve∣nutius out of the State of the Iugantes) out of the State of the Brigantes:* 1.7 [ B] which Tacitus himselfe seemeth to insinuate in the third Booke of his Histories▪ The other, in the life of Agricola. The Brigantes, saith he, under the lea∣ding of a Woman, burnt the Colonie, &c. Where truth would have you reade, The Trinobantes. For he speaketh of Queene Boadicia, who had no∣thing to doe with the Brigantes. But, the Trinobantes, she stirred indeede to rebellion, and burnt the Colonie* 1.8 Camalodunum.

But, this Country of theirs so exceeding large, which the further it goeth the narrower it waxeth, riseth on high in the mids with continued ridges and edges [ C] of hils, (as Italic is raised up with Apenninus) which make a partition be∣tweene those Counties into which it is now divided. For, beneath those hilles toward the East and the German Sea, lieth Yorke-shire, and the Bishopricke of Duresme; and on the West side, Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, all which Countries in the first infancy of the English-Saxons Empire, were contained within the Kingdome of the Deiri. For, they call these Countries, the Kingdome of the Nordanhumbers, and divided them in two parts; Deira, called in that age 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is neerer unto us and on this side Tine; and [ D] Bernicia, which lying beyond Tine, reached as farre as Edenborrough Frith in Scotland: which parts although they had their severall Kings for a long time, yet at length grew all to bee one Kingdome. And, that I may note this one thing by the way, whereas in the life of Charles the Great it is read thus, Eardulph King of the Nordanhumbers, that is, De-Irland, being dri∣ven out of his Country unto Charles the Great, &c. Wee must reade ioyntly, Dierland, and understand the place of this Country, and not of Ire∣land, as some have misconceived.

[illustration]

[illustration]

EBORACENSIS Comitatus pars Occiden••a••is vulgo WEST RIDING

[ A]

YORKE-SHIRE.

THE County of YORKE, in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, commonly YORKE-SHIRE, the greatest Shire by farre, of all England, is thought to bee in a temperate measure fruitfull. If in one place there bee stony and sandy barraine ground, in another place there are for it Corne-fields as rich and fruitfull: if [ B] it bee voide and destitute of Woods heere, you shall finde it shadowed there with most thicke Forests: so provi∣dently useth Nature such a temperature, that the whole Countrey may seeme by reason also of that variety more gracefull and delectable. Where it bendeth Westward, it is bounded with the Hilles, I spake of, from Lancashire and West∣morland.

On the North side it hath the Bishopricke of Durham, which the River Tees with a continued course separateth from it. On the East side the Germaine Sea lieth sore upon it: and the South side is enclosed first with Cheshire and Darby-shire, then with Nottingham-shire, and after, with Lincoln-shire, where that famous arme of the Sea [ C] Humber floweth betweene,* 1.9 into which all the Rivers well neere that water this shire empty themselves, as it were, into their common receptacle.

This whole Shire is divided into three parts: which according to three Quar∣ters of the world are called The West-Riding, The East-Riding, and The North-Riding. West-Riding, for a good while is compassed in with the River * 1.10 Ouse, with the bound of Lancashire, and with the South limits of the shire, and beareth toward the West and South. East-Riding, looketh to the Sunne-rising and the Ocean, which to∣gether with the River Derwent encloseth it. North-Riding reacheth Northward, hemmed in, as it were, with the River Tees with Derwent and a long race of the River Ouse. In that West part, out of the Westerne Mountaines or Hilles in the [ D] Confines, issue many Rivers which Ouse alone entertaineth every one, and carryeth them all with him unto Humber. Neither can I see any fitter way to describe this part, than to follow the streames of Done, Calder, Are, Wherse, Nid and Ouse, which springing out of these Hilles, are the Rivers of most account, and runne by places likewise of greatest importance.

The River Danus,* 1.11 commonly called Don, and Dune, so termed, as it should seeme for that it is carried in a chanell somewhat flat, shallow and low by the ground (for so much signifieth Dan in the British language) after it hath saluted Wortley,* 1.12 which gave sirname to a worshipfull Family,* 1.13 as also Wentworth hard by, whence beside o∣ther Gentlemen as well in this Country, as elsewhere, the Barons of Wentworth have [ E] derived both their originall and name;* 1.14 runneth first by Sheafield a Towne of great name (like as other small Townes adjoyning) for the Smithes therein (considering there bee many iron Mines thereabout) fortified also with a strong and ancient Castle,* 1.15 which in right line descended from the Lovetofts, the Lords Furnivall, and Thomas Lord Nevill of Furnivall, unto the Talbots, Earles of Shrewesbury. From thence Don clad with alders,* 1.16 and other trees goeth to Rotheram, which glorieth in Thomas Rotheram sometime Archbishop of Yorke, a wise man, bearing the name of the Towne, being borne therein, and a singular benefactor thereunto, who foun∣ded and endowed there a College with three Schooles in it to teach children wri∣ting, Grammar, and Musicke, which the greedy iniquity of these our times hath [ F] already swallowed.

Then looketh it up to Connisborrow or Conines-borrough an ancient Castle,* 1.17 in the British tongue Caer Conan, seated upon a Rocke, into which, what time as Aurelius Ambrosius had so discomfited and scattered the English Saxons at Maisbelly, that

they tooke them to their heeles, and fled every man the next way hee could finde, Hengest their Captaine retired himselfe for safety: and few daies after brought his men [ A] forth to battaile before the Captaine against the Britans that pursued him, where hee fought a bloudy field to him and his: For, a great number of men were there cut in peeces: and the Britans having intercepted him, chopt off his head, if wee may beleeve the British History rather than the English-Saxon Chronicles, which re∣port that he being outworne with travell and labour, died in peace. But this Conings∣borough in latter ages was the possession of the Earles of Warren. Afterwards, hee runneth under Sprotburg the ancient seat of that ancient family of the Fitz-Williams Knights, who are most honourably allied and of kin to the noblest houses of Eng∣land, and from whom descended Sir William Fitz-Williams Earle of Southampton,* 1.18 [ B] in our fathers remembrance, and Sir William Fitz-Williams late Lord Deputy of Ire∣land. But in processe of time this is fallen to the Copleys, like as Elmesly with other possessions of theirs in this Tract, are come by right of inheritance to the Savils.

From hence Done running with a divided streame hard to an old towne, giveth it his owne name, which we at this day call Dan-castre, the Scots Don-Castle, the Saxons Dona-〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.19 Ninius, Caer Daun, but Antonine the Emperour DANUM, like as the booke of Notices: which hath recorded that the Captaine of the Crispinian Horse∣men, lay there in Garison under the Generall of Britaine. This about the yeere of our Lord 759. was so burnt with fire from heaven, and lay so buried under the owne ruines, that it could scarce breath againe. A large plot it sheweth yet, where a Cita∣dell [ C] stood, which men thinke was then consumed with fire: in which place I saw the Church of S. Georges, a faire Church, and the onely Church they have in the Towne.

* 1.20Beneath this Towne Southward scarce five miles off is Tickhill, which I am not willing to omit, an old towne, fensed with as old a Castle, large enough, but having onely a single Wall about it, and with an high Mount whereon standeth a round Keepe. It carryed in old time such a Dignity with it, that the Manours and Lords belonging thereto were called The Honour of Tickhill. In the Raigne of Henry the First Roger Busly held the possession thereof: Afterwards the Earles of Ewe in Nor∣mandy were long since Lords of it by the gift of King Stephen.* 1.21 Then King Richard the First gave it unto John his brother. In the Barons Warre Robert de Vipont detei∣ned [ D] it for himselfe, which that hee should deliver unto the Earle of Ewe, King Hen∣ry the Third put into his hands, the Castle of Carleol, and the County. But when the King of France would not restore unto the English againe their possessions in France, the King of England retained it unto himselfe, when as John Earle of Ewe in the right of Alice his great Grandmother claimed of King Edward the First restitu∣tion thereof. At length Richard the Second King of England liberally gave it unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster.

But now by this time Done that often riseth heere and overfloweth the fields, ga∣thering his divided waters into one streame againe, when he hath for a while runne in one Chanell through Hatfeld Chace (where there is great game and hunting of [ E] red Deere) being divided eft-soone, speedeth himselfe on the one hand to Idel a Ri∣ver in Nottingham-shire, on the other to Are, that hee and they together may fall into Humber. In which very place there are environed with these rivers Diche-marc•• and Marshland,* 1.22 little Mersh Countries or River-Islands rather, taking up in circuit much about fifteene miles, most plentifull of greene grasse, passing good for fee∣ding of Cattaile, and on every side garnished, as it were, with prety Townes. Yet some of the Inhabitants are of opinion, that the land there, is hollow and hanging, yea and that, as the waters rise, the same also is heaved up: a thing that Pomponius Mela hath written concerning Antrum an Isle in France.

But among those Beakes and Brookes that convey their streames hither, I must [ F] not overpasse Went,* 1.23 which floweth out of a standing Poole neere unto Nosthill, where sometime stood an Abbay consecrated to Oswald, both a King and a Saint which A. Confessour to King Henry the First reedified. But since the dissolution it

[ A] hath beene the dwelling house of the Gargraves, Knights of especiall good respect.

Calder springing in the very Confines of Lancashire,* 1.24 runneth along certaine Townes of no account; among which, at Gretland in the top of an Hill (where∣unto there is no ascent but of one side) was digged up this Votive Altar; erected, as it should seeme, to the tutelar God of the whole State of the Brigants: which Al∣tar was to bee seene at Bradley, in the house of the right worshipfull Sir John Savill Knight, Baron of the Exchequer, but now among Sir Robert Cottons Antiquities.

On the other side.

[ B]

DUI CI. BRIG. ET NUM. AUGG. T. AUR. AURELIAN US DD PRO SE ET SUIS. S. M. A. G. S.

ANTONINO III.* 1.25 ET GET. COSS.

That is, To the God of the whole Communalty and state of the Brigantes, and to the sa∣cred Majesty of the Augusti, Titus Aurelius Aurelianus hath dedicated for himselfe [ C] and his. (The letters that bee last of all passe my skill altogether) When Antonine the third time, and Geta were Consuls.

Now whether that DUI,* 1.26 be God, whom the Britans now call Diw, or a peculiar locall God, or Genius of the Brigantes, I leave for to be discussed by them, that are bet∣ter learned. Like as the soules are divided and distributed among them that are borne (saith Symmachus) even so are Fatall Genij,* 1.27 among Nations. And the divine minde allotteth sun∣dry keepers and Guardians to particular Countries. For, thus they were in old time per∣swaded in their Divinity, and thus they beleeved. And, to say nothing of forraine Nations, whose History is very full of such peculiar and locall Gods; the Britans had in that part which now is called ESSEX, ANDATES: in Cumberland, BEL∣LO-TUCADRUS: [ D] in Northumberland, VITERINUS, and MOGONTUS, as shall appeare more evidently out of those Inscriptions, which I will set downe in due place. Servius Honoratus likewise hath well and truely observed, that these Locall or Topick Gods doe never passe unto other Countries. But to returne unto the River Calder: which when by the comming in of other waters hee is growne bigge and carryeth a fuller streame, hath a faire Bridge over it at Eland: neere unto which, at Grimscarre, were brickes found with this Inscription.

[ E] COH. IIII. BRE.

For, the Romanes flourishing in military prowesse, in great wisedome and po∣licie exercised both their Legions and Cohorts in time of peace,* 1.28 to withstand Idle∣nesse; by casting of ditches, making of High-waies, baking of brickes, building of Bridges, &c.

Calder afterward among the very Hilles leaveth on the left hand Halifax a most famous Towne,* 1.29 lying from West to East upon the steepe descent of an Hill. And [ F] not many ages since, tooke it this name; whereas before time it was called Horton, as some of the Inhabitants doe report, who tell this prety story also, touching the alteration of the name.

A certaine Clerke, as they call him, was farre in love with a maiden who when

hee might not have his purpose of her, for all the faire meanes and enticements [ A] hee could use, his love being turned unto rage (vilanous Wretch that hee was) cut off the Maides head; which being hung afterwards upon an Eugh tree, the common people counted as an hallowed Relique, untill it was rotten, yea and they came devoutly to visit it, and every one gathered and carryed away with him a branch or sprig of the said tree. But after the tree was bare and nothing left but the very stocke (such was the credulity of that time) it maintained the opinion of reve∣rence and Religion still. For, the people were perswaded, that the little veines that are stretched out and spred betweene the barke and body of the Eugh tree in man∣ner of haires or fine threads, were the very haires indeed of the Virgins head. Here∣upon they that dwelt thereabout repaired on Pilgrimage hither, and such resort [ B] there was unto it, that Horton being but a little Village before, grew up to a great Towne,* 1.30 and was called by a new name Halig-Fax, or Hali-fex, that is Holy haire. For, the Englishmen dwelling beyond Trent, called the haire of the head Fax. Whence also there is a Family in this Country, of Gentlemen, named Faire-fax, of the faire bush of their haire. They therefore, which by resemblance of the name gather this to bee Ptolomees Olicana,* 1.31 bee farre deceived. Now this place is become famous as well among the multitude by reason of a Law there, whereby they behead streightwaies whosoever are taken stealing: as also amongst the learned: for they report that Joannes de Sacro Bosco the Author of the Sphaere, was here borne: yet more famous it is, for the greatnesse of the Parish, which reckoneth in it eleven Chappels; [ C] whereof two, be Parish-Chappels, and to the number of twelve thousand people therein. So that the Inhabitants are wont to give out, that this Parish of theirs maintaineth more men and women, than other living creatures of what kinde soe∣ver. Whereas you shall see elsewhere in England, in the most fruitfull and fer∣tile places, many thousands of Sheepe, and very few men, as if folke had given place to flockes of Sheepe, and heards of Neat, or else were devoured of them. Moreover, the industry of the Inhabitants heere is admirable, who in a barraine Soile, wherein there is no commodious, nay scarce any dwelling and living at all, have so come up and flourished by Clothing (a trade which they tooke to not above threescore and tenne yeeres agoe at the farthest) that they greatly enrich their [ D] owne estates, and winne the praise from all their neighbours: yea, and have pro∣ved the saying to be true, That barraine places give a good edge to industrie: and that hence it is, that Norinberg in Germanie, Venice and Genua in Italie, and Limoges in France, situate all in barraine places are become right flourishing Cities. Sixe miles from hence and not farre from the right side of the River Calder, neere unto Al∣mond-bury a little Towne,* 1.32 standing upon an high and steepe Hill which hath no easie passage on even ground unto it but of one side, are seene the manifest tokens of a Rampire, some ruines of walles and of a Castle, which was guarded about with a triple strength of Forts and Bulwarkes. Some will have this also to have beene OLICANA:* 1.33 But the trueth saith otherwise, and namely that it is CAMBODU∣NUM, [ E] which Ptolomee calleth amisse CAMULODUNUM, and Beda by a word divided CAMPO-DUNUM.

This is prooved by the distance thereof, on the one side from MANCUNIUM, on the other from CALCARIA, according to which Antonine placeth it. More∣over, it seemeth to have flourished in very great honour, when the English Saxons first beganne to rule. For, the Kings Towne it was, and had in it a Cathedrall Church built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts, and the same dedicated to Saint Alban: whence in stead of Albon-bury, it is now called Almon-bury. But when Ceadwall the Britan and Penda the Mercian made sharpe warre upon Edwin the Prince of these Countries, it was set on fire by the enemy, as Beda writeth, which the very [ F] adust and burnt colour as yet remaining upon the stones doth testifie. Yet afterwards there was a Castle built in the same place, which King Stephen, as I have read, confir∣med unto Henry Lacy.

[ A] Hard unto it lyeth Whitly,* 1.34 the habitation of an ancient and notable Family of Beaumont, which notwithstanding is different from that House of the Barons and Vicounts Beau-mont, yet it was of great name in this Tract before their comming into England.

Calder now leaving these places behinde him,* 1.35 and having passed by Kirkley an house in times past of religious Nunnes; and the Tombe of Robin Hood that right good and honest Robber (in which regard he is so much spoken of) goeth to Dews∣borrough seated under an high Hill.* 1.36 Whether it had the name of DVI that tutelar God of the place, of whom I wrote a little before, I am not able to say: Surely the name is not unlike, for it soundeth as much as Duis Burgh, and flourished at the [ B] very first infancy, as it were, of the Church springing up amongst the English∣men in this Province: for, I have heard, that there stood a Crosse heere with this Inscription.

PAULINUS HIC PRAEDICA∣VIT ET CELEBRAVIT.

[ C] that is,

PAULINUS HERE PREACHED AND CELEBRATED DIVINE SERVICE.

And that this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of Yorke, about the yeere of our [ D] Redemption 626. all Chronicles doe accord. From hence Calder running by Thorn∣hill (which from Knights of that sirname is descended to the Savills) passeth hard by Wakefield a Towne famous for clothing,* 1.37 for greatnesse, for faire building, a well frequented Mercate, and a Bridge: upon which King Edward the Fourth erected a beautifull Chappell, in memoriall of those that lost their lives there in battaile. The Possession sometime this was of the Earles of Warren and of Surry, as also Sandall Castle adjoyning, which John Earle of Warren (who was alwaies fleshly lust∣full) built, when he had used the wife of Thomas Earle of Lancaster more familiarly than honesty would require, to the end he might deteine and keepe her in it secure∣ly, from her Husband.* 1.38 By this Townes side, when the civill warre was hote heere, [ E] in England and setled in the very bowels thereof, Richard Duke of Yorke, father to King Edward the Fourth (who chose rather to hazard his fortune: than to stay the good time thereof) was slaine in the field by those that tooke part with the House of Lancaster. The Tract lying heere round about for a great way together, is called The Seigniory or Lordship of Wakefield, and hath alwaies for the Seneschall or Steward one of the better sort of Gentlemen dwelling thereby. Which Office the Savills have oftentimes borne, who are heere a very great and numerous Family, and at this day Sir John Savill Knight beareth it,* 1.39 who hath a very sightly faire house not farre off at Howley, which maketh a goodly shew. Calder is gone scarce five miles farther, when he betaketh both his water and his name also to the River Are. Where, at their [ F] very meeting together standeth betweene them Medley,* 1.40 in times past 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, so called for the situation, as it were, in the middest betweene two Rivers. The seat it was in the age aforegoing, of Sir Robert Waterton Master of the Horse to King Henry the Fourth, but now of Sir John Savill a right worshipfull Knight, and a most worthy Baron of the Kings Exchequer, whom I acknowledge full gladly in

his love and courtesie to have favoured me, and out of his learning to have furthered [ A] this worke.* 1.41 This river Are springing out of the bothom of the hill Pennigent, which a∣mong the Westerne hils mounteth aloft above the rest, doth forthwith so sport him∣selfe with winding in and out, as doubtfull whether hee should returne backe to his spring-head, or runne on still to the sea, that my selfe in going directly forward on my way was faine to passe over it seven times in an houres riding. It is so calme, and milde, and carryeth so gentle and slow a streame, that it seemeth not to runne at all but to stand still, whence I suppose it tooke the name. For, as I have said before, Ara in the British tongue betokeneth Milde, Still, and Slow; whereupon that slow Ri∣ver in France Araris hath his name.* 1.42 The Country lying about the head of this River, is called in our tongue Craven, perchance of the British word Crage, that is, [ B] a Stone. For, the whole Tract there, is rough all over and unpleasant to see to, with craggy stones, hanging rockes, and rugged waies: in the middest whereof, as it were in a lurking hole,* 1.43 not farre from Are, standeth Skipton: and lyeth hidden and enclosed among steepe Hilles,* 1.44 in like manner as Latium in Italie, which Varro supposeth to have beene so called, because it lyeth close under Apennine and the Alpes. The Towne (for the manner of their building among these Hilles) is faire e∣nough, and hath a very proper and a strong Castle, which Robert de Rumeley built, by whose posterity it came by inheritance to the Earles of Aumarle. And when their inheritance for default of heires fell by escheat into the Kings hands, Robert de Clif∣ford, whose heires are now Earles of Cumberland, by way of exchange obtained of [ C] King Edward the Second both this Castle, and also faire lands round about it every way, delivering into the Kings hands in lieu of the same, the possessions that he had in the Marches of Wales.

When Are is once past Craven, hee spreadeth broader and passeth by more plea∣sant fields lying on each side of it,* 1.45 and Kigheley among them, which gave name to the worshipfull Family of Kigheley, so sirnamed thereof. Of which Family, Henry Kighe∣ley obtained of king Edward the First for this Manour of his The Liberty of a Mercate and Faire, and free warren. So that no man might enter into those lands to bunt and chace in them, or to take any thing that pertained to the Warren, without the licence and good will of Henry himselfe and his Successours. Which was counted in that age for a speciall [ D] favour, and I note it once for all, that we may see, what Free Warren was. But the male issue of this Family in the right line ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip. Howbeit, the daughters and heires were wedded to William Cavendish, now Baron Cavendish of Hardwick, and to Thomas Worseley of Boothes. From hence Are passeth beside Kirk∣stall, an Abbay in times past of no small reckoning, founded by Henry Lacy, in the yeere 1147.* 1.46 and at length visiteth Leedes, in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which be∣came a house of the Kings, when CAMBODUNUM was by the enemy burnt to the ground: now a rich Towne by reason of clothing, where Oswy king of Northum∣berland put to flight Penda the Mercian: And, as Bede saith, this was to the great profit of both Nations: for he both delivered his owne people from the hostile spoiling of the mis∣creants, [ E] and also converted the Mercians themselves to the grace of Christian Faith. The very place wherein they joyned battaile,* 1.47 the writers call Winwidfield, which name I sup∣pose was given it of the Victory: like as a place in Westphalia, where Quintilius Varus with his legions was slaine, is in the Dutch tongue called Winfield, that is, The fields of victory, as that most learned man and my very good friend Abraham Ortelius hath observed. The little Region or Territory about it, was in times past by an old name called Elmet:* 1.48 which Eadwin king of Northumberland, the sonne of AElla, af∣ter hee had expelled Cereticus a British king,* 1.49 conquered in the yeere of Christ 620. Herein is digged limestone every where, which is burnt at Brotherton, and Knotting∣ley and at certaine set times, as it were, at Faires, a mighty quantity thereof is convei∣ed [ F] to Wakefield, Sandall, and Stanbridge: and so is sold unto this Westerne Country which is hilly and somewhat cold, for to manure and enrich their Corne fields. But let us leave these things to Husbandmen: as for my selfe I professe my ignorance therein, and will goe forward as I beganne.

[ A] At length Are entertaineth Calder aforesaid with his water as his Guest, where neere unto the meeting of both Rivers,* 1.50 standeth Castleford a little Village, Marianus nameth it Casterford: who reporteth, that the Citizens of Yorke slew many of king Ethelreds Army there, whom in their pursuite they set upon and charged heere and there at advantages; what time as hee invaded and overranne this Country for breaking the allegeance they had sworne unto him. But in Antonine, this place is called by a more ancient name LEGEOLIUM and LAGETIUM:* 1.51 Wherein beside expresse and notable tokens of Antiquity, a mighty number of Roman pee∣ces of money (the common people there tearme them, Sarasins head) were found at Beanfield (a place so called now of Beanes) hard by the Church: The distance also [ B] from DAN and YORKE, betweene which he placed it, doth most cleerely con∣firme as much: to say nothing of the situation thereof hard by the Romanes High Street, and last of all for that Roger Hoveden in plaine tearmes calleth it A City.

From hence Are being now bigger, after it hath received Calder unto it, leaveth on the left hand Brotherton a little Towne; in which Queene Margaret, turning thi∣ther out of the way as she road on hunting, was delivered of childe, and brought forth unto her Husband king Edward the First, Thomas de Brotherton, so named of the place, who was afterward Earle of Norfolke; and Mareshall of England. And not farre beneath, Are after it hath received into it Dan, looseth himselfe in Ouse. On the right hand, where a yellower kinde of marke is found, which being cast and spred up∣on [ C] the fields maketh them beare Corne for many yeeres together, he passeth by Pont∣tract, * 1.52 commonly called Pontfret, situate not farre from the river banke, which Towne gat life, as it were, by the death of old Legeolium. In the Saxons time it was called Kirkby, but the Normans of a broken Bridge named it in French Pontfract. Upon this occasion, it is commonly thought, that the wooden Bridge over Are hard by, was broken,* 1.53 when a mighty multitude of people accompanied William Archibi∣shop a great number fell into the River, and yet by reason that the Archbishop shed many a teare at this accident, and called upon God for helpe: there was not one of them that perished. Seated it is in a very pleasant place, that bringeth forth Liquirice and [ D] skirworts in great plenty, adorned also with faire buildings, and hath to shew a stately Castle as a man shall see, situate upon a rocke no lesse goodly to the eye, than safe for the defence,* 1.54 well fortified with ditches and bulwarkes. Hildebert Lacy a Nor∣man, unto whom king William the First, after that Alricke the Saxon was thrust out, had given this Towne with the land about it, first built this Castle. But Henry Lacy his nephew,* 1.55 came into the field at the battaile of Trenchbrey (I speake out of the Pleas) against King Henry the First: wherefore hee was disseised of the Barony of Pontfract, and the King gave the Honour to Wido de Lavall, who held it untill King Stephens dayes: at which time, the said Henry made an entry into the Barony, and by mediation of the King compounded with Wido, for an hundred and fifty pounds. This Henry had a sonne na∣med [ E] Robert; who having no issue, left Albreda Lizours his sister by the mothers side, and not by the father, to bee his heire, because hee had none other so neere in bloud unto him: whereby shee, after Roberts death, kept both inheritances in her hand, namely of her brother Lacies, and her father Lizours. And these be the very words of the booke of the Monastery of Stanlow.* 1.56 This Albreda, was marryed to Richard Fitz Eustach, Con∣stable of Chester, whose Heires assumed unto them the name of Lacies, and flou∣rished under the title of Earles of Lincolne.* 1.57 By a daughter of the last of these Lacies, this goodly inheritance by a deede of conveyance was devolved in the end to the Earles of Lancaster, who enlarged the Castle very much, and Queene Elizabeth likewise bestowed great cost in repairing it, and beganne to build a faire Chappell. [ F] This place hath beene infamous for the murder and bloudshed of Princes: For, Thomas Earle of Lancaster,* 1.58 the first of Lancastrian House that in right of his wife possessed it, stained and embrewed the same with his owne bloud. For, King Ed∣ward the Second to free himselfe from rebellion and contempt shewed upon him a good example of wholsome severity, and beheaded him heere. Whom notwith∣standing

standing the common people enrolled in the Beadroll of Saints. Heere also was that Richard the Second King of England; whom King Henry the Fourth deposed from [ A] his Kingdome with hunger, cold, and strange kindes of torments, most wickedly made away. And heere King Richard the Third caused Antonie Earle Rivers, King Edward the Fifth his Unkle by the mothers side, and Sir Richard Grey knight, halfe brother to the same King by the mothers side, both innocent persons, to loose their heads. For the Usurper feared, least those courageous and resolute men would stop his passage, aspiring as he did by wicked meanes to the Crowne; As for the Abbay, which the Lacies heere founded for religious persons, and the Hospitall which Sir Robert Knolles erected for poore people, I let passe wittingly, seeing there is scarce a∣ny rubbish now remaining of those good workes. [ B]

From LEGEOLIUM or Castleford abovesaid, leaving behinde us Shirburne, a lit∣tle Towne but well inhabited, which tooke name of the cleere bourne or Riveret, and which King Athelstane graunted unto the Archbishops of Yorke, by the high ridge or Port way raised up of a great heigth,* 1.59 we came to Aberford, a little Village situate upon the said way, famous onely for making of pinnes, which by womens judgement are especially commended as the best. Under this the little River Coc (in bookes, na∣med Cokarus) runneth, and in the descent downe thereunto, the foundations of an old Castle,* 1.60 which they call Castle Cary, are to be seene. Scarce two miles from hence, at the spring head of Coc,* 1.61 standeth Barwic in Elmet the royall house or seat, by re∣port, in times past of the kings of Northumberland, which was environed about with [ C] walles, as the very ruines and ruble thereof seeme to testifie. On the other side is pla∣ced Hesselwood the principall seat of that worthy and right ancient family of the Va∣vasours,* 1.62 who by their Office (for the kings Valvasors in times past they were) tooke to them this name: and in the latter daies of King Edward the First Sir William Vavasor was called among other Barons of the Realme unto the high Court of Parliament, as appeareth in the very Writs, as they call them, of Summons. Under this place li∣eth that most famous delfe or quarry of stone,* 1.63 called Peters post, for that with the stones hewed out of it, by the liberall grant of the Vavasors, that stately and sump∣tuous Church of Sant Peters at Yorke was reedified.

From Aberford the said Riveret Coc speedeth immediately to the River Wherf, [ D] as it were, sad, sorrowfull, and with heavie cheere, in detestation of all civill warres, since time that he ranne all died with English bloud. For, upon his banke neere unto Towton a little country Village, was (as I may truely say) that our English Pharsalia. In no place ever saw our England such puissant forces,* 1.64 so much Gentry and Nobility together: an hundred thousand fighting men, and no fewer, of the one side and the other: Never were there leaders and Captaines on both parts more fierce, hardy, and resolute, never more cheerefull and forward to fight; who upon Palme Sunday, in the yeere 1461. in battaile array with banner displaied, entred the field and encoun∣tred. And when they had continued a doubtfull and variable fight a great part of the day, at length the Lancastrians not able to abide any longer the violence of their e∣nemies [ E] (the chiefe cause of whose overthrow was the disordered unwealdinesse of their owne Army) turned backe and fled amaine: And those that tooke part with Yorke, being eager upon execution, followed them in chase so hotely, that they had the killing of a number of Noblemen and Gentlemen, and thirty thousand English∣men were that day left dead in the field. But I leave this to the Historians. Some∣what lower, neere unto Shirburne, at Huddleston a little Village, is a famous stone quarry,* 1.65 out of which the stones when they are newly hewen be very soft, but after they bee seasoned with winde and weather, they become of themselves exceeding solid and hard. But (to returne) Coc making no long course sheadeth himselfe into Wherf. [ F]

* 1.66This Wherf or Wharf, in the English Saxons language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, commeth downe out of Craven, and for a great while runneth in a parallell distance even with Are. If a man should thinke the name to bee wrested from the word Guer, which in British signifieth Swift and violent, verily, the nature of that River concurreth with his opi∣nion;

[ A] For, he runneth with a swift and speedy streame, making a great noise as hee goeth, as if he were froward, stubborne and angry; and is made more fell and teasty with a number of stones lying in his chanell, which he rolleth and tumbleth before him in such sort that it is a wonder to see the manner of it, but especially when hee swelleth high in Winter. And verily it is a troublesome River and dangerous even in Summer time also, which I my selfe had experience of, not without some perill of mine owne, when I first travailed over this Country. For, it hath such slippery stones in it, that an horse can have no sure footing on them, or else the violence of the water carryeth them away from under his feete. In all his long course which from the spring head unto Ouse is almost fifty miles, he passeth onely by little Townes [ B] of no especiall account:* 1.67 running downe by Kilnesey Cragge, the highest and steepest rocke that ever I saw in a midland Country by Burnsall, where Sir William Craven Knight and Alderman of London there borne, is now building of a Stone bridge: who also hard by, of a pious minde and beneficiall to his Country hath of late founded a Grammar Schoole; also by Barden-Towre, a little turret belonging to the Earle of Cumberland, where there is round about good store of game and hunting of fat Deere: by Bolton, where sometime stood a little Abbay: by Bethmesley, the seat of the notable Family of Claphams, out of which came John Clapham a worthy Warriour, in the civill broiles betweene Lancaster and Yorke. From thence com∣meth he to Ilekeley,* 1.68 which considering the site in respect of Yorke out of Ptolomee, [ C] and the affinity of the name together, I would judge to be OLICANA. Surely that it is an old Towne (beside the Columnes engraven with Roman worke lying in the Churchyard and elsewhere) and was in Severus time reedified by the meanes of * 1.69 Virius Lupus, Lieutenant Generall and Propraetor then of Britaine, this inscription lately digged up hard by the Church doth plainly shew.

IM. SEVERUS. AUG. ET ANTONINUS [ D] CAES. DESTINATUS RESTITUERUNT, CURAN∣TE VIRIO LUPO. * 1.70 LEG. E∣ORUM * 1.71 PR. PR.

That the second Cohort of the Lingones abode heere, an Altar beareth witnesse, which I saw there, upholding now the staires of an house, and having this Inscripti∣on set upon it by the Captaine of the second Cohort of the Lingones, to VERBEIA, haply the Nymph or Goddesse of Wherf, the River running thereby, which River [ E] they called VERBEIA as I suppose, out of so neere affinity of the names.

VERBEIAE SACRUM CLODIUS FRONTO [ F] PRAEF. COH. II LINGON.

For, Rivers, as Gildas writeth, in that age, had by the blinde and ignorant people of [ A] Britaine, divine honours heaped upon them. And Seneca sheweth, that in times past, Al∣tars were erected unto them:* 1.72 We worship, saith he, The heads of great Rivers, and the sudden breaking forth of an huge River out of an hidden and secret place hath Altars conse∣crated unto it. Againe, All waters, as Servius Honoratus saith, had their severall Nymphs, to take the rule and protection of them. Moreover in a Wall of the Church is fastened this broken and unperfect Inscription.

[ B] — RUM CAES. AUG. — ANTONINI ET VERI [ C] JOVI DILECTI CAECILIUS PRAEF. COH.

But in the very Church it selfe, whiles I sought diligently for monuments of Ro∣mane [ D] Antiquity, I found nothing but the Image in stone all armed, of Sir Adam Midleton: who seemeth to have flourished under King Edward the First, and whose posterity remaineth yet in the Country heereby, at Stubbam.

* 1.73More beneath standeth Otley a Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke: but it hath nothing memorable, unlesse it bee one high and hard craggy cliffe, called Chevin under which it is situate.* 1.74 For, the ridge of an hill, the Britans terme Chevin: whence I may conjecture that that continued ridge of mountaines in France, where in old time they spake the same language that Britans did,* 1.75 was called Gevenna and Geben∣na. After this, Wherf runneth hard by, with his bankes on both sides reared up, and consisting of that Limestone which maketh grounds fat and fertile: where I saw [ E] Harewood Castle of good strength,* 1.76 which by the alteration of times, hath often chan∣ged his Lords.

* 1.77Long since it belonged to the Curcies, but by Alice an inheritrice it came to Wa∣rin Fitz-Gerold, who had taken her to wife; whose daughter Margerie and one of his heires, being endowed with a very great estate of living, was first married unto Baldwin de * 1.78 Ripariis, the Earles sonne of Devon-shire, who dyed before his father: afterwards to Folque de Brent, by the beneficiall favour of King John, for his appro∣ved service in pilling, polling, and spoiling most cruelly. But when at length Isa∣bell de * 1.79 Ripariis Countesse of Devon-shire departed this life without issue: This Ca∣stle fell unto Robert de L'isle the sonne of Warin, as unto her cozin in bloud and one [ F] of her heires: in the end by those of Aldborrough, it descended to the ••ithers, as I am enformed by Francis Thinn, who very diligently and judiciously hath a long time hunted after Pedigree antiquities. Neither is Gawthorp adjoyning hereby to be con∣cealed in silence, when as the ancient Family of Gascoignes descended out of Gas∣coigne

[ A] in France as it seemeth,* 1.80 hath made it famous both with their vertue and An∣tiquity.

From hence runneth Wherf hard by Wetherby,* 1.81 a Mercate Towne of good note, which hath no antiquity at all to shew, but a place only, beneath it (they call it usually now, Saint Helens Fourd) where the high Roman street crossed over the river. From thence he passeth downe by Tadcaster,* 1.82 a very little towne, yet I cannot but thinke as well by the distance from other places, as by the nature of the soile, and by the name, that it was CALCARIA.* 1.83 For, it is about nine Italian miles from Yorke, according as Antonine hath set CALCARIA. Also the limestone which is the very soader and binder of all morter, and hardly elsewhere in this tract to be found, heere is digged [ B] up in great plenty and vented as farre as to Yorke and the whole Country borde∣ring round about, for use in building. Considering then that the said Lime, was by the Britans and Saxons in old time,* 1.84 and is by the Northren Englishmen called after the Roman name Calc (For, that imperious City Rome, imposed not their yoke onely, but their language also upon the subdued Nations) seeing also that in the Code of Theodosius, those bee tearmed Calcarienses who are the burners of limestone: it may not seeme absurd, if the Etymology of the name be fetched from Calx, that is, Chalke or Lime: even as Chalcis,* 1.85 of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, brasse, Ammon of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Sand, Pteleon, of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Elmes, and Calcaria a City of Cliveland, haply of Calx, that is, Lime, tooke their names: especially seeing that Bede calleth it also Calca-cester. Where he [ C] reporteth, that Heina the first woman in this Country that put on the Vaile and reli∣gious habite of a Nunne, retyred her selfe apart to this City, and therein made her abode. Moreover, an Hill neere to the Towne is called Kelc-bar, in which there lieth couched somewhat of the ancient name. Neither are there other arguments wan∣ting, to prove the antiquity thereof: For, to say nothing how it is situate upon a port high way, there be peeces of the Roman Emperours money oftentimes digged up, and the tokens of the Trenches and Bankes that compassed it about, the plot also where an old Castle stood, yet remaining, out of the reliques whereof, not many yeeres agoe was a Bridge built, which when Wherf is once passed under, he becom∣meth more still, and so gently intermingleth his water with Ouse. And verily a thing [ D] it is in my judgement to be wondered at, That Wherf being encreased with so many waters, in Summer time runneth so shallow under this Bridge, that one com∣ming hither about Midsommer, when he saw it, pretily and merrily versified thus:

Nil Tadcaster habet Musis, vel carmine dignum, Praeter magnificè structum sine flumine pontem. Nought hath Tadcaster worth my Muse, and that my verse deserv's,* 1.86 Unlesse a faire Bridge stately built, the which no river serv's.

But had he come in Winter time, he should have seene the Bridge (so great as it [ E] was) scarce able to receive so much water. But naturall Philosophers know full well, that both Welles and rivers according to the seasons, and the heat or cold, without or within do decrease or encrease accordingly. Whereupon in his returne he finding here durt for dust, and full currant water under the Bridge, recanted with these verses.

Quae Tadcaster erat sine flumine, pulvere plena; Nunc habet immensum fluvium, & pro pulvere lutum.

Somewhat higher Nid a muddy river runneth downe,* 1.87 well beset with woods on either side, out of the bottome of Craven hils, first by Niderdale, a vale unto which it [ F] giveth name:* 1.88 and from thence carrieth his streame by Rippley a Mercate Towne, where the Inglebeys a Family of great antiquity, flourished in good reputation. Af∣terwards, with his deepe chanell hee fenseth Gnaresburg commonly called Knarsbo∣row Castle,* 1.89 situate upon a most ragged and rough Rocke, whence also it hath the name: which, Serle de Burgh, Unkle by the fathers side to Eustace Vescy built, as the

tradition holdeth: Afterward it became the seate of the Estoteviles, and now is coun∣ted [ A] part of the lands, belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster. Under it there is a well, in which the waters spring not up out of the veines of the earth, but distill and trickle downe dropping from the rockes hanging over it,* 1.90 whence they call it Dropping well: into which what wood soever is put, will in short space be covered over with a stony barke and turne into stone, as it hath beene often observed. In the Territory there by Liquirice groweth in great abundance, and a yellower and softer kinde of marle is there found, passing good to make the ground fertile. The Keeper or chiefe Ranger of the Forest adjoyning, was in times past one Gamell: whose posterity, of their ha∣bitation at Screven assumed the name of Screven: and from them descended the Slings∣bey, who received this Forestership of king Edward the First, and to this day live here [ B] in great and good regard. Nid having passed by these places not farre from Allerton, the seat of a very ancient and famous family of the Malliveries, who in old Deeds and Records are called Mali Leporarij, goeth on a little way, and then meeting Ouse, augmenteth the streame of Ouse by his confluence.

As for Vre, he also springing out of these Westerne hilles, but on the other side of the Country, in North-Ricding, when by this name he hath watered the North part of the Shire, a little before he commeth to Rippon, serveth for the limite dividing the North and West Ridings one from another. This Rippon, in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, being placed betweene Vre and Skell a rill, is beholden to religious Houses for all the dignity it had, and especially to a Monastery built in the primitive Church [ C] of the English-Saxons by Wilfride Archbishop of Yorke, and that with such arched and embowed Vaults, with such floorings and stories of stone-worke, with such turnings and windings in and out of Galleries (so saith William of Malmesbury) that it was wonder∣full: Which, the Danes afterward, being so violent and outrageous that they spared neither God nor man, raced, together with the Towne. Yet flourished it againe, re∣paired by meanes of Odo Archbishop of Canterbury: who being a very great ma∣ster of ceremoniall mysteries, translated from hence to Canterbury the Reliques of Wilfride. But since the Normans arrivall, it prospered most, when the Castles as one saith, of Monkes beganne to bee built in greater number: For then both the Towne grew famous partly under the chiefe Magistrate, whom they call by an old [ D] Saxon word,* 1.91 Wakeman as one would say, Watchman, and partly by their industry in clothing which at this day is much diminished: and the Monastery likewise under the tuition and protection of the Archbishops of Yorke beganne marveilously to reflou∣rish. Besides, a very faire Church was there also built, at the charitable charges of the Noblemen and Gentry dwelling thereabout, and of their owne Treasurer: which with three high Spire-steeples doth welcome those that come to the towne, and did as it were emulate in workemanship, the wealthy Abbay of Fountaines, built within the sight of it by Thurstin Archbishop of Yorke. On the one side of this Church wee saw a little College of ••inging men, which Henry Bath Archbishop of Yorke erected: on the other side a very great mount of earth called Hilshow, cast up, [ E] as they report,* 1.92 by the Danes. Within the Church, Saint Wilfrides Needle, was in our Grandfathers remembrance, very famous: A narrow hole this was, in the Crowdes or close vaulted roome under the ground, whereby womens honesty was tried: For, such as were chast did easily passe through, but as many as had plaied false, were miraculously, I know not how, held fast and could not creepe through. The Ab∣bay Fountaines aforesaid, most pleasantly seated in a right plentifull Country, and having Lead mines neere it, had the originall from twelve precise Monkes of Yorke, who fervently, zealous, to serve God in a more strict kinde of life, forsooke their cloi∣stures and addicted themselves to the ordinances of Saint Bernard. For whom, after they had reaped many Harvests of troubles, Thurstine Archbishop of Yorke built [ F] this Abbay, which was acknowledged an immediate daughter of Clarevalle, and in a few yeeres became a mother to many others, as Kirkstall, Salley, Meaux, &c. I have made more willingly mention of these, because Saint Bernard in his Epistles so highly approved their life, and discipline.

[ A] Not farre beneath, there standeth by Vre a little Towne called Burrow bridge, of the bridge that is made over the River: which now is built very high and faire of stone worke, but in King Edward the Second his time, it seemeth to have beene of wood. For, wee reade, that when the Nobles of England disquieted the King and troubled the State, Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford in his going over it; was at a chinke thereof thrust through the body about his groine, by a souldier lying close under the Bridge. Neere unto this Bridge Westward, we saw in three divers little fields, foure huge stones, of Pyramidall forme, but very rudely wrought, set as it were in a streight and direct line.* 1.93 The two Pyramides in the middest whereof the one was lately pulled downe by some that hoped, though in vaine, to finde treasure, [ B] did almost touch one another: the uttermore stand not farre off, yet almost in equall distance from these on both sides. Of these I have nothing else to say, but that I am of opinion with some, that they were Monuments of victory erected by the Ro∣manes, hard by the High Street that went this way. For I willingly overpasse the fables of the common people,* 1.94 who call them the Devils Bolts which they shot at ancient Cities and therewith overthrew them. Yet will not I passe over this, that very many and those learned men thinke they are not made of naturall stone indeed, but compounded of pure sand, lime, vitriol (whereof also they say there be certaine small graines within) and some unctuous matter. Of such a kinde there were in Rome cisternes, so firmely compact of very strong lime and sand, as Plinie writeth, that [ C] they seemed to be naturall stones.

A little Eastward from this Bridge,* 1.95 IS-URIUM BRIGANTUM an ancient City, so called of the River Vre running by it, flourished in ancient times, but was rased to the very ground many ages past. Neverthelesse the Village risen up neere the place, giveth testimony of the Antiquity thereof, for it is called Ealdburgh and Aldborrow.* 1.96 But, in that very plot of ground where the said City stood, are now ara∣ble grounds and pastures, so that scarce any footing thereof doth appeare. Surely, the very credite of Writers should have had much adoe to make us beleeve, that this had beene IS-URIUM, but that URE the Rivers name, the Romane Coine daily digged up, and the distance according to Antonines account betwixt this and [ D] Yorke, warranted it. For, by that Vre (which the Saxons afterward named Ouse be∣cause it hath entertained Ousburne a little River) is gone sixteene Italian miles from hence,* 1.97 hee runneth through the City EBORACUM or EBURACUM, which Ptolomee in the second booke of his Great Construction calleth BRIGANTIUM (if the said booke bee not corrupted) because it was the chiefe City of the Brigantes. Ninnius calleth it Caer Ebrauc, the Britans Caer Effroc, the Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and we at this day, Yorke.

The British History reporteth, that it tooke name of King Ebra••c the Foun∣der: yet give mee leave to deeme conjecturally, without the prejudice to others that the name EB-URACUM is derived from nothing else but from the River Vre, [ E] so that it soundeth as much as by Vre, or along the side of Vre: for, even so the EB∣UROVICES in France, were seated by the River Eure, neere unto Eureux in Nor∣mandy: Semblably the EB-URONES in the Netherlands, neere unto the river Oure in the Dioecese of Lhuick: and EB-LANA in Ireland standeth hard by the river Lefny. This is the second City of England, the fairest in all this Country, and a sin∣gular safeguard and ornament both, to all the North parts. A pleasant place, large, and stately, well fortified, beautifully adorned as well with private as pulique buil∣dings, rich, populous, and to the greater dignity thereto it hath an Archiepiscopall See. Ure, which now is called Ouse, flowing with a gentle streame from the North part Southward cutteth it as I said in twaine, and divideth it, as it were, into two Cities, which are conjoyned with a stone Bridge, having the mightiest Arch one of them, that ever I saw.

The West part, nothing so populous, is compassed in with a very faire Wall and the River together, fouresquarewise, and giveth entrance to those that come thither at one onely Gate, named Mikel Barre, as one would say, The great Gate. From

which a long street and a broade, reacheth to the very Bridge, and the same streete [ A] beset with proper houses having gardens and orchards planted on the backeside on either hand, and behinde them fields even hard to the Walles, for exercise and di∣sports. In the South angle whereof which they and the River make betweene them, I saw a Mount, raised, as it seemeth, for some Castle to be built upon it, called The old Bale; which, William Melton Archbishop, as wee reade in the Archbishops lives, strongly enclosed, first, with thicke planckes, eighteene foote long; afterward with a stone wall: yet there is nothing of all that, now to be seene.

The East side wherein the houses stand very thicke and the streetes be narrower, in forme resembleth as it were a lentill, and is fortified also with very strong walles and on the South-East,* 1.98 defended with the deepe chanell of Fosse a muddy River, [ B] which entring into the heart of the City by a blinde way, hath a Bridge over it, with houses standing upon it so close ranged one by another, that any man would judge it, to bee not a Bridge, but a continued streete; and so a little lower run∣neth into Ouse: where at their confluence, and meeting together, right over a∣gainst the Mount that I spake of, King William the Conquerour in a very conve∣nient place raised a most strong Castle to awe the Citizens. Upon which, time hath now a great while without impeachment wrought his will; ever since that Englishmen fell to neglect strong Holds, as receptacles for those whose hearts would not serve to fight in open field.

On this side also toward the North-East, standeth the Cathedrall Church dedi∣cated [ C] to Saint Peter, an excellent faire Fabrique and a stately; neere unto which, without the Walles of the City, but yet enclosed within walles and by the River, flourished a renowned Abbay called Saint Maries, which Alan the Third, Earle of Little Britaine in Armorica and of Richmund, built and endowed with rich li∣vings: but now it is converted into the Princes house, and is commonly called The Manour.* 1.99

Whence I should fetch the originall of Yorke but from the Romanes I cannot tell, seeing the Britans before the Romanes comming had no other Townes, than woods fensed with trenches and rampire, as Caesar and Strabo unreprovable Authors doe testifie. To say nothing therefore of King Ebrauk, whom some men both cu∣rious [ D] and credulous, as it should seeme, have imagined out of the name of Eboracum (for so is Yorke in Latine termed) to have beene the Founder thereof: most certaine it is, that the Sixth Legion Victrix, which Hadrian there Emperour brought out of Germany over into Britaine was placed heere in Garison. And that it was a Colo∣ny of the Romanes, it appeareth both by the authority of Ptolomee, and Antonine, and also by an ancient Inscription, which I saw in a certaine Aldermans house there in these words.

M. VEREC. DIOGENES IIIII I VIR [ E] COL. EBOR. IDEMQ. MORT CIVES BITURIX. HAEC SIBI VIVUS FECIT.

As also by a peece of money coined by the Emperour Severius, in the reverse whereof we reade.

[ F]

COL. EBORACUM. LEG. VI. VICTRIX.

[ A] But how it is,* 1.100 that Victor in his History of the Caesars, hath called Yorke Municipi∣um or free towne of Britaine, being, as it was a Colony, I require farther time to de∣liberate thereupon, unlesse it were, that the inhabitants of Yorke, like as sometime the Praenestines did choose rather from a Colony to bee brought unto the state of a free-Burgh. For, Colonies having, as Agellius writeth, lawes, customes and rights at the will of the people of Rome and not at their owne pleasure, seemed more obnoxi∣ous, and their condition not so free: whereas free Cities, such as in Latin are named Municipia, used rights, Lawes and orders of their owne, and the Citizens or Bur∣gesses thereof were partakers with the people of Rome in their honourable Offices onely, and bound of necessity to nothing else. No mervaile therefore, if Colonies [ B] were changed into Free Burroughs. But to what end stand I upon this point? This difference of the name is not in the story of the Emperours so exactly observed, but that one and the selfe same place is called both a Colony, and a Municipium, or Free City.* 1.101 Howbeit out of that peece of money I dare not constantly affirme, that Seve∣rus first conducted and planted this Colony, seeing that Ptolomee and Antonine himselfe writeth it was the seat of the sixth Legion in the Antonines time. But we reade that Severus had his Palace in this City, and heere at the houre of death gave up his last breath with these words: I entred upon a state every where troublesome, and I leave it peaceable even to the Britans. His body was carried forth here to the funerall fire by the souldiers, after the military fashion, and committed to the flames, honoured with [ C] Justs and Turneaments of his souldiers and his owne sonnes, in a place beneath this City Westward neere to Ackham, where is to be seene a great Mount of earth raised up, which as Raulph Niger hath recorded, was in his time, of Severus, called Sivers. His ashes being bestowed in a little golden pot, or vessell of the Porphyrite stone, were carried to Rome, and shrined there in the Monument of the Antonines. At which time there was in this City the Temple of Goddesse Bellona.* 1.102 For, Spartianus speaking of Severus and this very City, saith thus, When Severus returned and came into the City, purposing to offer sacrifice, he was led first of all to the Temple of Bellona, by the errour of a rusticall Augur or Soothsaying Priest. At which time the Tribunal or Justice Haul of this City was in this respect most happy, because therein sat to minister ju∣stice [ D] that Oracle of the law, Aemelius Paulus Papinianus, as Forcatulus witnesseth. And from this place it was, for certaine, that Severus and Antoninus Emperours be∣ing consulted in a case or question of Right, gave forth their Imperiall constitution De rei Vindicatione.* 1.103 An hundred yeeres or thereabout after the death of Severus, Fl. Valerius Constantius sirnamed Chlorus, an Emperour surpassing in all vertue and Christian piety, who came hether When the Gods, as the Panegyrist saith, called him now to the inmost entry and doore of the earth, ended his life also in this City and was deified, as we may see by ancient Coines. And albeit Florilegus recordeth, that his Tombe was found in Wales, as I have said; yet men of credite have enformed me, that in our fathers remembrance, when Abbaies were suppressed and pulled downe, [ E] in a certaine Vault or crowdes or a little Chappell under the ground wherein Con∣stantius was supposed to have beene buried, there was found a Lampe burning: for, Lazius writeth, that in ancient time they preserved light in Sepulchres, by resolving gold artificially into a liquid and fatty substance, which should continue burning a long time and for many ages together.

This Emperor begat of his former wife Helena CONSTANTINE THE GREAT,* 1.104 THE DELIVERER OF ROME CITY, as ancient inscriptions give testimony, THE FOUNDER OF PEACE, AND THE REPAIRER OF THE COMMON [ F] VVEALTH: Who was present in Yorke at his fathers last gaspe, and forthwith pro∣claimed Emperour, The souldiers, as the Panegyricall Oratour saith, regarding rather the good of the State, than private affections, cast the purple robe upon him, whiles hee wept and put spurs to his horse, to avoid the importunity of the Army attempting and requiring so in∣stantly to make him Emperour: But the happinesse of the State overcame his modestie. Whence it is that the Author of the Panegyricall oration crieth out in these words, O fortunate Britaine and now blessed above all lands, which first sawest Constantine Emperor.

Hence it may be gathered, in what, and how great estimation Yorke was in those [ A] daies, seeing the Romane Emperours Court was there held. For, our owne Coun∣try Writers record, that this City was by Constantius adorned and graced with an Episcopall See: But yet, that Ta••rinus the Martyr Bishop of Eureux sat heere and governed,* 1.105 I will not say as others doe. For, Vincentius out of whom they sucked this errour, would by his owne words convince me of untruth. But when the Romanes were departed and had left Britaine for a prey to barbarous Nations, this City sore afflicted with many calamities, suffered her part also of miseries, and was little or nothing better about the end of the Scottish or Saxons Warres, than a poore small shadow of a great name. For, when Paulinus preached Christian Religion to the Eng∣lish Saxons in this Country, it lay so desolate, that there remained not so much as a [ B] Chappell in it, for King Edwin to bee baptized in. Who in the yeere after Christs Birth 627. built a little Oratory of wood: and when as afterward he went in hand with building a greater Church of stone, scarce had he laid the foundation thereof, when he was prevented by death and left it to be finished by his Successour Oswald. Ever since that time,* 1.106 the Ecclesiasticall Dignity in this Church encreased, and by a Pall sent unto it from Honorius the Pope, became a Metropolitane City; which beside twelve Bishoprickes in England, exercised the power of a Primate over all the Bishops of Scotland. But many yeeres since, Scotland withdrew it selfe from this her Metropolitane: and the Metropolitane City it selfe hath so devoured o∣ther Bishoprickes adjoyning, being but little to say truth and of small account, that it [ C] hath now but foure within the owne Dioecese, namely, the Bishoprickes of Dur∣rham, of Chester, of Carlile, and of Man, or Sodorensis in the Isle of Man. And the Archbishop Egbert, who flourished about the yeere of our Salvation 740. erected at Yorke,* 1.107 A most famous Library, the Cabinet as I may so terme it (these be the words of William of Malmesbury) and Closet of all liberall Arts. Touching which Library, Alcwin of Yorke Schoolemaster to Charles the Great, first Founder of the Univer∣sity of Paris, and the onely Honour of this City, in an Epistle to the said Charles wrote thus. Give mee the bookes of deeper and more exquisite scholasticall learning, such as I had in mine owne Country by the good and most devout industry of the Archbishop Egbert. And if it please your wisedome, I will send backe some of your owne servants, who [ D] may exemplifie out of them all those things that be necessary, and bring the floures of Britaine into France, that there may not be a Garden of learning enclosed onely within Yorke walles; but that streames of Paradise may be also at Towres.

Then also it was that Princes bestowed many and great livings and lands upon the Church of Yorke, especially Ulphus the sonne of Toral (I note so much out of an old booke, that there may plainly appeare a custome of our ancestour in endowing Churches with livings). This Ulphus aforesaid ruled in the West part of Deira, and by reason of the debate that was like to arise betweene his sonnes the elder and the younger, about their Lordships and Signiories after his death, forthwith hee made them all alike. For, without delay hee went to Yorke, tooke the horne with him out of which hee was wont to [ E] drinke, filled it with wine, and before the Altar of God and blessed Saint Peter Prince of the Apostles, kneeling upon his knees he dranke, and thereby enfeoffed them in all his lands and re∣venewes. Which horne was there kept as a monument (as I have heard) untill our fathers daies.

I might seeme to speake in derogation of the Clergy, if I should report what se∣cret heart-burnings, or rather open enmities flashed out betweene the Archbi∣shops of Yorke and of Canterbury upon worldly ambition; whiles with great wast of their wealth, but more losse of their credite and reputation, they bickered most eagerly about the Primacy. For, the Church of Yorke, as he writeth, (inferiour though it were unto that of Canterbury in riches) yet being equall in dignity, albeit of later time [ F] founded: and advanced on high with the same power that Canterbury hath, confirmed also with the like authority of Apostolicall Priviledges, tooke it ill to bee subject unto that of Canterbury by vertue of a Decree of Alexander of Rome, who ordained, That the Church of Yorke ought to be subject unto Canterbury, and in all things to obey the constitutions of the

[ A] Archbishop thereof, as Primate of all Britaine, in such matters as appertaine to Christian Religion. Concerning the Archbishops of Yorke, it is no part verily of my purpose to write any thing heere, although there bee very many of them who deserve for their vertue and piety to bee renowned. Let it suffice to note in a word, that from Paulinus the first Archbishop, consecrated in the yeere of our Redemption 625. there have sitten in that See threescore and five Archbishops, unto the yeere 1606. in which D. Tobie Matthew a most reverend Prelate,* 1.108 for the ornaments of vertue and piety, for learned eloquence, and continuall exercise of teaching, was translated hither from the Bishopricke of Durrham.

This City for a time flourished very notably under the English Saxons domini∣on, [ B] untill the Danes like a mighty storme thundring from out of the North-East, de∣faced it againe with merveilous great ruines, and by killing and slaying disteined it with bloud, which, that Alcuine aforesaid in his Epistle to Egelred King of North∣umberland may seeme to have presaged before What signifieth (saith he) that raining of bloud which in Lent we saw at Yorke the head City of the whole Kingdome, in Saint Pe∣ters Church, to fall downe violently in threatning wise from the top of the roufe, in the North part of the house, and that in a faire day. May it not bee thought, that bloud is com∣ming upon the Land from the North parts? Verily soone after it was embrued with bloud, and did pine away with most miserable calamities, when the Danes spoiled, wasted, and murrhered all where ever they came. And verily in the yeere 867. the [ C] wals were so battered and shaken by reason of continuall Warres, that Osbright and Ella Kings of Northumberland, whiles they pursewed the Danes easily brake into the City: who being both of them slaine in a most bloudy battaile in the very middest of the City, left the victory unto the Danes. Whereupon William of Malmesbury writeth in this manner, Yorke, alwaies exposed first to the rage of the Northren Nations, sustained the barbarous assaults of the Danes, and groaned being pitteously shaken with mani∣fold ruines. But as the very same Authour witnesseth, King Athelstone wonne it per∣force out of the Danes hands, and overthrew the Castle quite, which they had heere fortified. Neither for all this, was it altogether free from warres in the times next ensuing whiles that age ranne fatall for the destruction of Cities.

[ D] But the Normans as they ended these miseries, so they made almost a finall hand of Yorke also. For, when the sonnes of Sueno the Dane had landed in these parts with a Danish Fleete of 240.* 1.109 Saile, the Normans lying in Garison, who kept two Forts within the City, fearing least the houses in the Suburbes might stand the enemy in stead to fill up the Ditches withall, set them on fire: but by reason the winde rose highly, the fire was so carried and spred throughout that City, that now it was set a burning, when the Danes breaking in upon them made pitifull slaughter in every place, having put the Normans to the sword, and keeping alive William Mallet and Gilbert Gant two principall persons, that they might be tithed with the souldiers. For,* 1.110 every tenth man of the Normans they chose out by lot, to be executed. Where∣upon [ E] King William the Conquerour was so incensed with desire of revenge, that he shewed his cruelty upon the Citizens by putting them all to death, as if they had ta∣ken part with the Danes: and upon the City it selfe by setting it on fire afresh; and as William of Malmesbury saith, Hee so depopulated and defaced the Villages adjoyning, and the sinewes of that fertile Region were so cut by the spoiles there committed and booties raised, and the ground for the space of threescore miles lay so untilled, that if a stranger had then seene the Cities that in times were of high account, the Towres which with their lofty toppes threatned the skie, and the fields that were rich in pastures, hee could not but sigh and la∣ment, yea and if an ancient inhabitant had beheld the same, hee could not have knowne them. How great Yorke had beene aforetime, Domesday booke shall tell you in these words. [ F] In King Edward the Confessours time, there were in Yorke City sixe Divisions or Shires, besides that of the Archbishops. One was laid waste, for the Castles or Forts. In the five Divisions were 1428. dwelling Mansions to give entertainement: And, in the Archbishops Shire or Division 200. dwelling Mansions likewise. After these woefull overthrowes our countryman Necham thus versified of it.

Visito quam foelix Ebrancus condidit urbem, [ A] Petro se debet pontificalis apex. Civibus hac toties viduata, novísque repleta, Diruta prospexit moenia saepe sua. Quid manus hostilis queat, est experta frequenter, Sed quid? nunc pacis otia longa fovent.

The City that Great Ebrauk built, I come now for to view, Whereof the See pontificall, is to Saint Peter due. This, many times laid desolate, and peopled new hath beene, Her wals cast downe and ruinate full often hath it seene. [ B] What mischiefe hostile hands could worke, not once nor twice it found, What then? since now, long time of peace, doth keepe it safe and sound.

For, in his time, when after these troublesome stormes a most pleasant calme of peace presently ensued, it rose of it selfe againe and flourished afresh, although the Scots and Rebels both, did oftentimes make full account to destroy it. But under the Raigne of King Stephen, it caught exceeding great harme by casualty of fire, wherein were consumed the Cathedrall Church, the Abbay of Saint Mary and o∣ther religious houses: yea and that noble and most furnished Library (as it is thought) which Alcuin hath recorded to have been founded by Archbishop Egeldred his Prae∣ceptour. [ C] As for the Abbay of Saint Mary it quickly recovered the former dignity by new buildings: but the Cathedrall Church lay longer ere it held up head againe, and not before King Edward the First his time: For then, John Roman Treasurer of the Church laid the foundation of a new worke, which his sonne John, William Mel∣ton, and John Thoresby, all of them Archbishops, brought by little and little to that perfection and beauty which now it sheweth, yet not without the helping hand of the Nobility and Gentry thereabout, especially of the Percies and the Vavasours, which the armes of their houses standing in the very Church, and their images at the West gate of the Church doe shew, Percies pourtraied with a peece of timber, and Vavasours with a stone in their hands, for that the one supplied the stone, the other [ D] the timber for this new building. This Church as he reporteth who wrote the life of Aeneas Sylvius,* 1.111 who was Pope Pius the second, and that upon the Popes owne relati∣on, For workmanship and greatnesse, is memorable over all the world, and the Chappell most lightsome, the glasse-windowes whereof are fast bound betweene pillars that bee most slender in the mids. This Chappell is that most dainty and beautifull Chapter-house, in which this verse stands painted in golden letters.

Ut Rosa flos florum, sic est Domus ista Domorum. The floure of floures, a Rose men call: So is this house of housen all. [ E]

About the same time also, the Citizens fensed the City round about with new walles and many towres and bulwarkes set orderly in divers places, yea and ordained very good and holsome lawes for the governement thereof. King Richard the Se∣cond granted it to bee a County incorporate by it selfe, and King Richard the Third beganne to repaire the Castle. And that nothing might be wanting, King Henry the Eighth within the memory of our fathers,* 1.112 appointed heere a Councell not unlike to the Parliaments in France, for to decide and determine the causes and controver∣sies of these North parts according to equity and conscience, which consisteth of a Lord President, certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure, a Secretary and [ F] under Officers. As touching the Longitude of Yorke our Mathematicians have described it to be two and twenty Degrees and twenty five Scruples: the Latitude 54. degrees and 10. scruples. Hitherto have we treated of the West part of this shire and of Yorke City, which is reckoned neither in the one part, nor the other, but

[ A] enjoyeth peculiar liberties, and hath jurisdiction over the Territory adjoyning on the West side. Which they call the Liberty of Ansty, others the Ancienty of the Antiquity, but other have derived it very probably from the Dutch word Anstossen, which betokeneth limits. And now for a conclusion have heere what Master John Jonston of Aberden hath but a while since written in verse, of Yorke.

Praesidet extremis Arctoae finibus orae Urbs vetus, in veteri facta subinde nova. Romanis Aquilis quondam Ducibúsque superba. Quam post barbarica diripuere manus. [ B] Pictus atrox, Scotus, Danus, Normannus, & Anglus Fulmina in hanc Martis detonuere sui. Post diras rerum clades, tótque aspera fata, Blandiùs aspirans aura serena subit. LONDINUM caput est, & regni urbs prima Britanni: EBORACUM à primâ jure secunda venit.

In parts remote of Northren tract, there stands as soveraine, A City old, but yet of old eftsoones made new againe. Whilom of Romane Legions and Captaines proud it was: [ C] But since by forces barbarous sacked and spoil'd, alasse. The Picts so fierce, the Scots and Danes, Normans and Englishmen, 'Gainst it their bolts of dreadfull war have thundred now and then. Yet after sundry bitter blasts, and many a cursed clap, A milder gale of peacefull daies, hath brought it better hap. Of British Kingdome LONDON is chiefe seat and principall, And unto it there goes by right Yorke City next of all.

Ouse now leaving Yorke, being otherwhiles disquieted and troubled with that whirling encounter of contrary waters, and forceable eddies which some call Higra, [ D] runneth downe through Bishops Thorpe,* 1.113 called Saint Andrewes Thorpe, before that Walter Grey Archbishop of Yorke purchased it with ready money, and to prevent the Kings Officers who are wont rigorously to seize upon Bishops Temporalties when the See is vacant, gave it to the Deane and Chapter of Yorke, with this con∣dition, that they should alwayes yeeld it to his Successours. Of whom, Richard Le Sicrope Archbishop of Yorke, a man of a firy spirit, and ready to entertaine rebellion, was condemned in this very place, of high Treason by King Henry the Fourth, a∣gainst whom he had raised an insurrection.* 1.114 Afterward Cawood a Castle of the Arch∣bishops standeth upon the same River, which King Athelstan, as I have read, gave unto the Church: Just against which on the other side of the River lyeth Ricall, [ E] where Harald Haardread arrived with a great Fleet of Danes. Then Ouse passeth hard by Selby a little Towne, well peopled and of good resort; where King Henry the First was borne, and where his father King William the First built a faire Abbay in memory of Saint German, who happily confuted that venemous Pelagian Here∣sie, which oftentimes (as the Serpent Hydra) grew to an head againe in Britaine. The Abbats of this Church, as also of Saint Maries in Yorke, were the onely Ab∣bats in the North parts that had place in the Parliament house. And so Ouse at length speedeth away to Humber, leaving first Escricke a seat of the Lascelles sometimes to be remembred for that King James advanced Sir Thomas Knivet the owner thereof Lord Knivet to the honour of Baron Knivet of Escricke,* 1.115 in the yeere 1607. And [ F] afterward passing by Drax, a little Village famous long since for a Monastery foun∣ded there by Sir William Painell, and whereas William of Newburgh writeth, Philip of Tollevilla had a Castle most strongly fensed, with Rivers, Woods, and Marishes about it, which he, confident upon the courage of his followers, and his provision of victuals and armour, defended against King Stephen; untill it was wonne by assault.

[illustration]

EBORACENSIS Comitatus (ovius Incolae olin Bri∣gantes appellabantur) pars Orien∣talis, vulgo EAST RI∣DING

[ A]

EAST-RIDING.

EAST-RIDING the second part of this Region, wherein Pto∣lomee placed the PARISI, lyeth Eastward from Yorke. On the North side and the West, it is bounded with the River * 1.116 Darwent, that runneth downe with a winding course: on the South with the Salt water of Humber, and on the East with the German Ocean. Upon the Sea side and along Dar∣went [ B] the Soile is meetly good and fertile: But in the mids it is nothing else but an heape of Hilles rising up on high, which they call Yorkes wold. Darwent springing not farre from the shore, first taketh his way Westward: then, hee windeth into the South by Aiton and Malton; whereof, because they belong to the North part of the Shire, I will speake in due place. No sooner is hee entred into this Quarter, but downe hee runneth not farre from the ruines of the old Castle Montferrant.* 1.117 The Lords whereof were in times past the Fossards, men of noble parentage and wealthy withall: But when William Fossard Ward to the King, being committed unto William le Grosse Earle of Aumarle as to his Guardian, and now come to his yeeres, abused his sister; the Earle in wreck∣full [ C] displeasure for this fact of his, laid this Castle even with the ground, and forced the young Gentleman to forsake his Country. Howbeit, after the Earles death, he recovered his inheritance againe, and left one onely daughter behinde him: who being marryed unto R. de Torneham, bare a daughter marryed to Peter de * 1.118 Mauley: whose heires and successours being bettered in their estate by this inheritance of the Fossards, became great and honourable Barons. Not farre from hence is situate up∣on the River side, Kirkham, as one would say of Church-place: For, a Priory of Chanons was there founded by Walter Espec a man of high place and calling, by whose daughter a great estate accrewed to the family of the Lord Rosses. Then, but somewhat lower, Darwent had a City of his owne name, which Antonine the Em∣perour [ D] calleth DERVENTIO, and placeth it seven miles from YORKE. The booke of Notices maketh mention of a Captaine over the Company Derventiensis under the Generall of Britaine, that resided in it; and in the Saxons Empire it see∣meth to have beene that Towne, where the King used to lye, which Bede saith, was situate neere unto the River Doroventio. In which, as hee also writeth, Eumer, that murderous Villaine thrust at Edwin King of Northumberland with a sword and had runne him through, but that one of his men stepped betweene, and saved the Kings life with the losse of his owne. Yet could I never have said precisely which was the ve∣ry place, had not that most judicious Robert Marshall given me a light thereof. For, he gave me to understand, that just at the very same distance from Yorke which I spake [ E] of, there stands hard upon the River Darwent, a little Towne named Auldby, that is, if you interprete the Saxon word, The old Habitation: where, are extant yet in sight some tokens of Antiquity, and upon a very high Hill neere unto the River, the rubbish of an ancient Fortification, so that it cannot chuse, but to have beene the said City Derventio. From hence glideth the River hard under Stanford-Bridge, which also of the battaile there fought is called Battlebridge.* 1.119 For, at that Bridge, Harald King of England, after a great execution done upon the Danes flew in a pight field Harald Hardread King of Norway, who with a Fleet of 200. saile grie∣vously annoyed the Isle of Britaine, and was now landed at Richall, spoiling and wasting all in his way. The King of England who having the honour of the field, [ F] found among the spoiles such a masse of Gold, as that twelve lusty young men, had much adoe to carry it on their backes, as Adam Bremensis recordeth. This field was foughten scarce nine dayes before the arrivall of William Conquerour, what time the dissolute and roiotous life of the Englishmen, seemed to foretell

their imminent overthrow and destruction. But of this I have spoken before. [ A]

Derwent, which when it is encreased with raine, and as it were provoked to anger doth oftentimes contemne his bankes and surround the medowes lying about it, passing from hence by Wreshil a proper and a strong Castle, which Sir Thomas Percy Earle of Worcester built, runneth amaine under Babthorpe, which yeeldeth both name and habitation to a worshipfull Family of Knights degree: and so at length dischargeth himselfe into Ouse. Out of this stocke it was (for let us not thinke much to tell of those who performed faithfull service to their Prince and Country) that both father and sonne fighting together under the banner of King Henry the Sixth lost their lives in the Battaile of Saint Albans, and were there buryed together with this Epitaph: [ B]

Cum patre Radulpho Babthorp jacet ecce Radulphus Filius, hoc duro marmore pressus humo, Henrici Sexti dapifer, pater Armiger ejus, Mors satis id docuit, fidus uterque fuit. &c.

Behold where two Raulph Babthorps, both the sonne and father lye, Under a stone of marble hard, interr'd in this mould dry: To Henry the Sixth the father Squire, the Sonne he Sewer was, Both true to Prince, and for his sake they both their life did passe. [ C]

* 1.120And now Ouse by this time carrying a fuller streame, runneth neere Howden a Mercate Towne, famous not so much for any beauty in it, or great resort thereto, as because it hath given name to a little Territory adjoyning, called of it Howdenshire, and had therein not long since a prety Collegiat Church of five Prebendaries: unto which joyneth the Bishops house of Durrham who have great lands thereabout. One of which, namely Walter Skirlaw, who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 1390. as we reade in the booke of Durrham, built a very great and large steeple to this Church, that if there happened by chance any inundation, it might serve the inhabitants for a place of refuge to save themselves in.* 1.121 And not farre from hence stands Metham, which gave [ D] both sirname and habitation also to the ancient house of the Methams.

Now the River Ouse being very broad, swift and roring besides, out powreth his streame into the Frith or salt water ABUS:* 1.122 For so calleth Ptolomee that arme of the Sea, which the English Saxons and we tearme Humber, whereof also the Country beyond it, by a generall name was called Northumberland. Both these names may seeme to have beene drawne with some little change, from the British word Aber, which among them signifieth the mouth of a River: and I would thinke it was impo∣sed upon this River by way of excellency: because Ure or Ouse having entertained and lodged many Rivers, carryeth them all with him along into this, yea and other Rivers of right great name are emptied into it. And verily it is one of the broadest [ E] armes of the sea and best stored with fish in all Britaine. It riseth high as the Ocean, at every tide floweth, and when the same ebbeth and returneth backe, it carryeth his owne streame and the currant of the Sea together most forcibly and with a mighty noise, not without great danger of such as saile therein, whence Necham writeth thus of it.

Fluctibus aequoreis nautis suspectior Humber, Dedignans Urbes visere rura colit. More fear'd of shipmen Humber streame, than waves of sea so deepe; Disdaining cities great to see, neere country townes doth keepe. [ F]

And following the British History, as if it had beene so called of a King of the Hunnes, he addeth this moreover.

[ A] Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino Submersus, nomen contulit Humbris aquae. A Prince of Hunnes, whiles that he shew'd his backe to Locrine brave, Was drowned heere, and so the name, to Humber water gave.

Touching whom, another Poet also:

Dum fugit, obstat ei flumen, submergitur illic; Dèque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae. Whiles he turn'd backe, and tooke his flight, the River stopt the same, [ B] There drown'd was he, and then of him the water tooke the name.

Neither were there indeed any Cities seene to stand by this Arme of the Sea in Nechams daies: but before and after, there flourished one or two Cities in these places. Under the Roman Empire, not farre from the banke, by Foulnesse a River of small account, where Wighton a little Towne of Husbandry well inhabited is now seene, stood, as we may well thinke, in old time DELGOVITIA: and that I may not take hold of the distance from DERVENTIO for a proofe, both the resem∣blance, and the signification also of the name, doe concurre. For, Delgwe in the Bri∣tish tongue signifieth The Statues or Images of the Heathen Gods, and in a small Village [ C] adjoyning to this little Towne, there was a Temple of Idols even in the Saxons time, of exceeding great name, and request: which, of those Heathen gods was then termed Godmundingham,* 1.123 and now is called in the same sense * 1.124 Godmanham. Nei∣ther doubt I, but that even when the Britans flourished, it was some famous Oracle much frequented when superstition spread, and swaying among all Nations had whol∣ly possessed the weake mindes of ignorant people. But when Paulinus preached Christ, unto Northumberland men, Coy-fi, who had beene a Pontife or Bishop of the heathen rites and ceremonies, after he had once embraced Christian Religion, First of all profaned this Temple, the very habitation of impiety, by launcing a speare against it, yea he destroyed it, and as Bede writeth, Set it on fire, with all the enclosures and [ D] Isles belonging unto it. From hence, something more Eastward, the River Hull bendeth his course to Humber,* 1.125 which River hath his spring head neere unto Drif∣feild, a Village well knowne, by reason of the Tombe of Alfred that most learned King of Northumberland; and the mounts that be raised heere and there about it. The said River hasteneth thitherward, not farre from Leckenfielde, an house of the Per∣cies Earles of Northumberland: neere unto which, standeth the dwelling place of a very famous and ancient Progeny of the Hothams at Schorburg; together with the rubbish of an old Castle of Peter Mauley at Garthum. And now approcheth the Ri∣ver Hull neerer unto Beverley,* 1.126 in the English Saxon tongue called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which Bede seemeth to name, the Monastery in Deirwand, that is, In the word of the Deiri, [ E] a great Towne, very populous and full of trade. A man would guesse it by the name and situation to be PETUARIA PARISIORUM,* 1.127 although it affordeth nothing of greater antiquity, than that John sirnamed de Beverley, Archbishop of Yorke, a man as Bede witnesseth, both godly and learned, after he had given over his Bishop∣ricke, as weary of this world, came hither, and ended his life in contemplation, about the yeere of our Redemption 721.* 1.128 The Kings held the memoriall of this John so sacred and reverend, especially King Athelstan who honoured him as his tutelar Saint, after he had put the Danes to flight, that they endowed this place with many and those very great priviledges,* 1.129 and Athelstane granted them liberties in these ge∣nerall words, All's free make I thee, as heart may thinke, or eye may see. Yea and there [ F] was granted unto it the priviledges of a Sanctuary, so that bankrupts and men suspe∣cted of any capitall crime worthy of death, might bee free and safe there from dan∣ger of the Law. In which there was erected a Chaire of stone with this Inscription.

[ A]

HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA Freedstoll DICITUR .i. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD QUAM REUS FUGIENDO PERVE∣NIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECURITATEM.

That is,

This seat of Stone is called Freedstooll, that is, The [ B] chaire of Peace, unto which what Offender soever flieth and commeth, hath all manner of security.

Heereby, the Towne grew great, and daily there flocked hither a number to dwell as inmates; and the Townesmen for conveyance of commodities by sea made a cha∣nell for a water course out of the River Hull sufficient to carry boats and barges.* 1.130 For the chiefe Magistracy there, it had twelve Wardens; afterwards Governours and Wardens. And now, by the gracious grant of Queene Elizabeth, a Major and Go∣vernours. [ C] More Eastward,* 1.131 there flourished Meaux Abbay, so called of one Gamell borne at Meaux in France, who obtained it at William the Conquerours hands for a place to dwell in: and heere was founded an Abbay for the Monkes of the Cluni∣acke order by William Le Grosse Earle of Aulbemarle, to bee released of his vow that hee had made to visite Jerusalem. A little lower runneth out in a great length Cot∣tingham, a country Towne of husbandry,* 1.132 where by licence granted from King John, Robert Estotevill the Lord thereof built a Castle now utterly fallen to ruine.* 1.133 Which Robert, was descended from Robert Grondebeofe, or Grandebeofe a Baron of Norman∣dy, and a man of great name and reputation: whose inheritance fell by marriage to the Lord de Wake,* 1.134 and by a daughter of John de Wake it came to Edmund Earle of [ D] Kent, who had a daughter named Joane wife unto that most warlique Knight Ed∣ward Prince of Wales, who so often victoriously vanquished the French in divers places. The River Hull aforesaid, after it hath passed sixe miles from hence shed∣deth himselfe into Humber, and neere unto his mouth hath a Towne of his owne name called Kingston upon Hull,* 1.135 but commonly Hull. This Towne fetcheth the be∣ginning from no great antiquity: For, King Edward the First, who in regard of his Princely vertues deserveth to bee ranged among the principall and best Kings that ever were,* 1.136 having well viewed and considered the opportunity of the place which before time was called Wike, had it by right of exchange from the Abbat of Meaux, and in lieu of the * 1.137 Beasts stals and sheepe pastures, as I conceive it, which there [ E] he found, built a Towne that he named Kingston, as one would say, The Kings Towne; and there, as wee reade in the Records of the Kingdome, hee made an haven and free Burgh, the Inhabitants thereof also, free Burgesses, and he granted divers liberties unto them. And by little and little it rose to that dignity, that for stately and sumptuous buil∣dings, for strong block-houses, for well furnished ships, for store of Merchants and a∣bundance of all things it is become now the most famous towne of merchandise in these parts. All which the inhabitants ascribe partly to Michael de la-Pole, who ob∣tained their priviledges for them, after that King Richard the Second had promoted him to the honour of Earle of Suffolke, and partly their gainfull trade by Island fish dried and hardened which they tearme Stockfish: whereby they gathered a maine [ F] masse of riches. Hence it came to passe, that within a little while, they fensed their City with a bricke wall, strengthened it with many Towres and Bulwarkes, where it is not defended with the river: and brought such a deale of coblestones for ballais to their ships, that therewith they have paved all the quarters and streets of the towne

[ A] most beautifully. For the chiefe Magistrate it had (as I have beene enformed) first a Warden or Custos: then Bailives, afterward a Major and Bailives: and in the end they obtained of K. Henry the Sixth that they might have a Major and a Sheriffe, and that the very towne should be a County, as our lawyers use to say incorporate by it selfe. Nei∣ther will I thinke it much to note, although in Barbarous tearmes, out of the booke of Meaux Abbay,* 1.138 as touching the Major of this City. William De la Pole knight, was beforetime a merchant at Ravens-rod, skilfull in merchandise and inferiour to no English merchant whatsoever. He making his aboade afterwards at Kingston upon Hull, was the first Major that ever the said towne had: he began also and founded the monastery of Saint Mi∣chael hard by the said King-ston, which now is an house of the Carthusian or Charter-house [ B] monkes. And he had for his eldest sonne Sir Michael De la Pole Earle of Suffolke, who caused the said Monasterie to bee inhabited by Carthusian Monkes. And verily William De la Pole aforesaid, lent many thousand pounds of gold unto King Edward, whiles hee made his aboade at Antwerp in Brabant, wherefore the King in recompence of the said gold, made him Lord chiefe Baron of his Exchequer, conferred upon him the whole Seignorie or Lordship of Holdernes, together with other lands belonging unto the Crown; and that by the Kings Char∣ter, yea and ordained that he should be reputed a Baneret. Yet if any man make doubt here∣of, the Recordes I hope may satisfie him fully,* 1.139 in which William De la Pole is in plaine tearmes called Dilectus Valectus, et Mercator noster, that is, Our wellbeloved Valect and our Merchant: now, Valect, to tell you once for all, was in those daies an honorable ti∣tle [ C] as well in France as in England: but afterward applied unto servants and gromes: whereupon when the Gentry rejected it, by changing the name they began to bee called Gentlemen of the Bedchamber.

From Hull,* 1.140 a Promontorie runneth on forward and shooteth out a farre into the sea, which Ptolomee calleth OCELLVM, wee Holdernesse, and a certaine monke, Cavam Deiram, as it were, the hollow Country of the Deirians, in the same significati∣on that Coelosyria is so tearmed, as one would say Holow Syria. In this Promontory, the first towne wee meet with in the winding shore is Headon,* 1.141 in times past (if wee list to beleeve fame that useth to amplifie the truth, and which for my part I will not discredit) risen to exceeding great account by the industry of merchants and [ D] sea-faring men: from which (so uncertaine is the condition as well of places as of people) it is so much fallen by the vicinity of Hull, and the choaking up of the haven which hath empoverished it, that it can shew scarce any whit of the ancient state it had. Although King Iohn granted unto Baldwin Earle of Aulbemarle and of Hol∣dernesse, and to his wife Hawis, free Burgage heere, so that the Burgers might hold in free Burgage, with those customes that Yorke and Nichol, that is, Lincolne. Yet now it beginneth by little and little to revive againe, in hope to recover the former dignity.

There standeth hard by the Pomontorie,* 1.142 an ancient towne, which Antonine the Emperour called PRAETORIVM, but we in our age Patrington, like as the Italians [ E] have changed the name of a towne sometime called Praetorium, into Petrovina. That I doe not mistake herein, both the distance from DELGOVITIA, and the very name yet remaining doth prove: which also in some sort implieth, that this is the very same that in Ptolomees copies is written PETVARIA corruptly, for Praetorium. But whether this name were given it, either from Praetorium, that is, the hall of Justice, or from some large and stately house, such as the Romans tearmed Praetoria, it doth not appeare for certaine. The inhabitants glorie much yet as touching their Anti∣quity and the commodiousnesse of the haven in ancient times: and they may as well glorie for the pleasantnesse thereof. For, it hath a most delectable pro∣spect: on the one side lieth the maine sea brimme upon it, on the other Humber [ F] a famous arme of the sea; and over against it the fresh and greene skirtes of Lin∣coln-shire. The high way of the Romans from the Picts wall which Antonine the Emperor followed, here endeth. For, Ulpian hath written, that such high waies commonly end at the sea, at rivers, or at Cities.

Somewhat lower standeth Winsted, the habitation of the Hildeards knights of an∣cient

descent: and higher into the Country, Rosse: from whence the honorable fami∣ly [ A] of the Barons Rosse tooke their name,* 1.143 like as they were seated there in times past: and hard by the sea-side, Grimstons-garth: where the Grimstons for a long time have lived in good reputation: and a little from hence standeth Rise, the mansion house in old time of certaine noble men bearing the name of Falconberg. And then, in the very necke of the promontorie, where it draweth in most narrow into a sharpe point,* 1.144 and is called Spurnhead, is KELNSEY a little village: which plainely sheweth that this is the very OCELLVM mentioned by Ptolomee: for, as from OCEL∣LVM Kelnsey is derived: so Ocellum doubtlesse, was made of Y-kill, which as I have said before signifieth in the British tongue a Promontory or narrow necke of land. [ B]

From Spurn-head, the shore withdraweth it selfe backe by little and little, and gently bending inward shooteth Northward by Overthorne and Witherensey two lit∣tle Churches,* 1.145 called of the sisters that built them Sisters kirks: and not farre from Constable-Burton, so called of the Lords thereof, who being by marriages linked to right honorable houses, flourish at this day in great worship: and out of which fa∣milie Robert (as wee read in the booke of the Abbay of Meaux) was one of the Earle of Aulbemarls knights, who being aged and full of daies took upon him the Crosse and went with King Richard in his voiage toward the holy land. Then, by Skipsey, which Dru the first Lord of Holdernesse fortified with a Castle. When the shore beginneth to spread againe and beare out into the sea, it maketh roome for a bay or [ C] creeke, that Ptolomee calleth EYAIMENON GABRANTO VICORUM, which the Latin Interpreters have translated, some PORTUOSVM SINVM, that is, the barbo∣rous Creeke;* 1.146 others, SALVTAREM, that is, the safe Creeke. But neither of them both better expresseth the nature of the Greeke word, than the very name of a little vil∣lage in the nouke thereof, which wee call Sureby. For, that which is safe and sure from danger, the Britans and French men both, terme Seur, as wee Englishmen (sure) who peradventure did borrow this word from the Britans. There is no cause therefore, why we should doubt, but that this creeke was that very EYAIMENON of the GABRANTOVICI,* 1.147 who dwelt there abouts. Hard by, standeth Bridlington a towne very well knowne by reason of Iohn of Bridlington a poeticall monkish pro∣phet [ D] whose ridiculous prophesies in Rhime I have read albeit they were not worth the reading. And not farre from hence, for a great length toward Driffield, was there a ditch cast up and brought on by the Earles of Holdernesse, to confine and bound their lands, which they called Earles Dyke. But whence this little nation here inhabi∣ting were named GABRANTOVICI, I dare not search, unlesse happily it were of goates which the Britans tearme Gaffran, and whereof there is not greater store in al Britain than hereabout. Neither ought this derivation of the name to seeme absurd, seeing that Aegira in Achaia borroweth the name of goats, Nebrodes in Sicily of fal∣low Deere,* 1.148 and Boeotia in Greece, of Kine and Oxen. That little Promontory which with his bent made this creeke, is commonly called Flamborough head, and in the [ E] Saxon tongue Fleam-〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 by Authors, who write that Ida the Saxon, who first sub∣dued these Countries, arrived here. Some think it took the name from a watchtowre which did by night put forth a flame or burning light for to direct sailers into the haven. For, the Britans retaine yet out of the provinciall language this word, Flam: and Mariners paint this creeke in their sea-cards with a blazing flame on the head. Yet others are of opinion, that this name arrived in this Island with the English out of Angloen in Denmarke, the ancient seat of the English nation; for, there is a towne called Flemsburg,* 1.149 and that the Englishmen from hence called it so: like as the Gaules, as Livie witnesseth, tearmed Mediolanum, that is, Millan, in Itali••, af∣ter the name of Mediolanum in Gaule, which they had left behinde them. [ F] For, there is a little village in this Promontory named Flamborrough, where an other notable house of the Constables had anciently their seat,* 1.150 which some doe de∣rive from the Lacies Constables of Chester. Beeing in these parts I could learne nothing for all the enquirie that I made, as touching the bournes commonly called

[ A] Vipseys,* 1.151 which (as Walter of Heminburgh hath recorded) flow every other yeere out of blinde springs and runne with a forcible and violent streame toward the sea nere unto this Promontory. Yet take here with you, that which William Newbrigensis who was borne neare that place writeth of them. Those famous waters which common∣ly are called Vipseys, rise out of the earth from many sources not continually, but every second yeere, and being growne unto a great bourn runne downe by the lower grounds into the sea. Which when they are dry, it is a good signe: for, their breaking out and flowing is said to bee an infallible token portending some dearth to ensue.

From thence the shore is drawne in, whereby there runneth forth into the sea a certaine shelfe or slang, like unto an out-thrust tongue, such as Englishmen in old [ B] time termed a File, whereupon the little village there Filey tooke name: and more within the land you see Flixton, where, in King Athelstanes time was built an Hospi∣tall, for the defence (thus word for word it is recorded) of way-faring people passing that way from Wolves, least they should be devoured. Whereby it appeareth for certaine, that in those daies Wolves made foule worke in this Tract,* 1.152 which now are no where to be seene in England, no not in the very marches toward Scotland; and yet within Scotland there be numbers of them in most places.

This little territory or Seigniory of Holdernesse,* 1.153 King William the First gave to Drugh Buerer a Fleming, upon whom also he had bestowed his Niece in marriage; whom when hee had made away by poison and thereupon fled to save himselfe, [ C] hee had to succeed him Stephen the sonne of Odo,* 1.154 Lord of Aulbemarle in Normandy who was descended from the Earles of Champaigne: whom King William the First because hee was his Nephew by the halfe sister of the mothers side, as they write, made Earle of Aulbemarle: whose posterity in England retained the Title, al∣though Aulbemarle be a place in Normandy. His successour was William sirnamed Le Grosse:* 1.155 whose onely daughter Avis was marryed to three husbands one after another, namely to William Magnavill Earle of Essex, to Baldwine De Beton, and William Forts, or de Fortibus, by this last husband onely shee had issue William, who also had a sonne named William. His onely daughter Avelin, being the wedded wife of Edmund Crouchbacke,* 1.156 Earle of Lancaster, dyed without children. And so, [ D] as wee reade in the booke of Meaux Abbay, for default of heires, the Earldome of Aulbemarle and honour of Holdernesse, were seized into the Kings hands. Howbeit in the ages ensuing King Richard the Second created Thomas of Woodstocke his Unkle, and afterwards Edward Plantagenet Earle of Rutland, the Duke of Yorkes sonne, Duke of Aulbemarle, in his fathers life time: likewise King Henry the Fourth made his owne sonne Thomas, Duke of Clarence and Earle of Aulbemarle: which Title King Henry the Sixth afterward added unto the stile of Richard Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke, for the greater augmentation of his honour.

[illustration]

EBORACENSIS Comi••a••us pars Septentrionalis vulgo NORTH RIDING

[ A]

NORTH-RIDING.

SCarce two miles above Flamborrough-head, beginneth the NORTH-RIDING or the North part of this Country,* 1.157 which affronting the other parts, and beginning at the Sea, is stretched out Westward, and carrieth a very long Tract with it (though not so broad) for threescore miles together, even as farre as to Westmorland: limited on the one side with Der∣went, [ B] and for a while with the River Ure, on the other side with Tees running all along it, which on the North Coast se∣parateth it from the Bishopricke of Durrham. And very fitly may this part bee divi∣ded into, Blackamore, Cliveland, Northallverton-shire, and Richmond-shire.

That which lyeth East, and bendeth toward the Sea is called Blackamore, that is, The blacke moorish land: For it is mountanous and craggy. The Sea coast there∣of, hath Scarborrough Castle,* 1.158 for the greatest ornament a very goodly and famous thing, in old time called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, A Burgh upon the Scar, or steepe Rocke. The description whereof have heere out of William of Newburgh his History. A Rocke of a wonderfull height and bignesse, which by reason of steepe cragges and cliffes, almost [ C] on every side is unaccessible, beareth into the Sea; wherewith it is all compassed about, save onely a certaine streight in manner of a gullet, which yeeldeth accesse, and openeth into the West: having in the toppe a very faire, greene, and large Plaine containing about three∣score acres of ground or rather more; a little Well also of fresh water springing out of a sto∣ny Rocke. In the foresaid gullet or passage, which a man shall have much adoe to ascend up unto, standeth a stately and Princelike Towre: and beneath the said passage beginneth the City or Towre, spreading two sides South and North, but having the sore part Westward: and verily it is fensed afront with a wall of the owne: but on the East fortified with the rocke of the Castle: and both the sides thereof are watered with the Sea. This place William Le Grosse, Earle of Aulbemarle and Holdernesse viewing well, and seeing it to bee a con∣venient [ D] plot for to build a Castle upon, helping Nature forward with a very costly worke closed the whole plaine of the Rocke with a Wall, and built a Towre in the very streight of the passage: which being in processe of time fallen downe, King Henry the Second caused to bee built in the same place a great and goodly Castle; after hee had now brought under the Nobles of England, who during the loose government of King Stephen had consumed the lands of the Crowne: but especially amongst others, that William abovesaid of Aulbemarle, who had in this Tract ruled and reigned like a King, and possessed himselfe of this place as his owne.

Touching the most project boldnesse of Thomas Stafford, who to the end hee might overthrow himselfe with great attempts, with a few Frenchmen surprised [ E] this Castle of a sudden in Queene Maries Raigne and held it for two daies together, I neede not to speake:* 1.159 ne yet of Sherleis, a Gentleman of France, who having accom∣panied him, was judicially endited and convict of high treason, albeit he was a for∣rainer, because hee had done against the duty of his Alleageance, the peace then betweene the Kingdome of England and of France being in force. These are matters bet∣ter knowne than that the World can take notice of them by any writings of mine. Yet may this seeme a thing worth my labour and expedient,* 1.160 to note, how the Hol∣landers and Zelanders use to take marveilous plenty of herrings (call them in Latin Haleces, Leucomenida, or Chalcides, which of them you please) upon this coast, and make a very gainfull trade thereof, having anciently first obtained licence by an an∣cient [ F] custome, out of this Castle. For the Englishmen granted licence to fish, reser∣ving the honour to themselves, but resigning for lazinesse, as it were, the profit unto strangers. For, it is almost incredible, what infinite summes of money the Hollan∣ders raise unto themselves by this their fishing in our shore.

These Herrings (pardon me I pray you if briefly by way of digression I doe make [ A] mention of Gods goodnesse towards us) which in our great grandfathers dayes kept as it were their station onely about Norway: now in our time not without the divine Providence, swimme yeerely round about this Isle of Britaine by skulles in wonderfull great numbers. About Midsommer they shoole out of the deepe and vast Northren-sea to the coasts of Scotland, at which time because they are then at the fattest, they bee streightwaies sold: Thence come they to the English East coast, and from the middest of August unto November, is the best and most plen∣teous taking of them betweene Scarborrough, and Tamis mouth.

Afterwards by force of some great storme, they are carryed into the British sea, and there untill Christmas offer themselves to the fishers nettes; from hence divi∣ding [ B] themselves and swimming along both sides of Ireland, after they have coa∣sted round about Britaine, they take their course into the Northren Ocean, as their home, and there settle themselves as it were and rest untill June: where after they have cast their spawne and brought forth a yong fry, they returne againe in mighty great skulles and so march about these Isles. Whiles I am writing hereof, that comes into my minde which sometimes I read in Saint Ambrose. Fishes (saith hee) by infi∣nite numbers, meeting, as one would say, by common consent out of many places from sundry creekes of the Sea, with a joint flote, as it were, make toward the blastes of the North winde, and by a certaine direction and instinct of Nature haste into that Sea of the Northren parts. A man that saw the manner of them would say a certaine tide were comming downe from [ C] the current,* 1.161 they rush so forward and cut the waves, as they passe, with a violent power, through Propontis into Pontus Euxinus. But to my matter againe.

From thence, the shore indented and interlaced with rockes, bendeth in, as farre as to the River Teise,* 1.162 and by a compasse that the said shore fetcheth, there is made a Bay about a mile broad, which of that Outlaw Robert Hood, so much talked of, wee call Robin Hoods Bay.* 1.163 For hee (as John Major the Scotishman writeth) flou∣rished in the Raigne of Richard the First; and the said Authour setteth him out with this commendation, that Hee was indeed an Arch-Robber but the gentellest Theefe that ever was.* 1.164 Then DUNUS SINUS, a creeke mentioned by Ptolomee streight∣waies by giving backe of the shore on both sides sheweth it selfe; neere unto [ D] which standeth Dunesley a little village,* 1.165 and hard by it, Whitby, in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; which Beda expoundeth to bee, The Bay of a Watch-Towre. Neither will I call that interpretation into question, although in our language it doth resemble Sinum Salutis, that is, The Bay of health; so, that I would say this very same was Salutaris Sinus, that is, The Bay of safety, but that the situation in the Geo∣grapher did perswade me otherwise. Heere are found certaine stones fashioned like Serpents folded and wrapped round as in a wreathe even the very pastimes of Nature disporting her selfe:* 1.166 who, as one saith, when shee is wearied as it were with serious workes, forgeth and shapeth some things by way of game and recrea∣tion. A man would thinke verily they had beene sometime Serpents, which, a [ E] coat or crust of stone had now covered all over. But people too credulous ascribe this to the Praiers of Saint Hilda, as if shee had thus transformed and changed them: who in our Primitive Church withstood to her power the shoring and shaving of Priests, and the celebration of Easter according to the order of Rome, when a Sy∣node was held touching these matters in the yeere of our Lord 664. in the Abbay which shee had built in this place, and whereof herselfe was first Governesse. Unto whose holinesse also they ascribe, that those wilde Geese, which in Win∣ter time flye by flockes unto Pooles and Rivers that are not frozen over, in the South parts; whiles they flye over certaine fields heere adjoyning, suddenly fall downe to the ground,* 1.167 to the exceeding great admiration of all men: a thing that I [ F] would not have related, had I not heard it from very many persons of right good cre∣dit. But such as are not given to superstitious credulity, attribute this unto a secret propriety of this ground, and to an hidden dissent between this soile and those geese,

[ A] such as is betweene wolves and Squilla rootes. For provident Nature hath infused such like secret mutuall combinations, and contrarieties, which the learned tearme Sympathies and Antipathies, as all men acknowledge, for their preservation. After∣wards Edelfleda King Oswins daughter enriched this Abbay with most large reve∣newes, where also shee solemnized her fathers funerall obsequies. But at length the Danes robbing and spoiling where ever they came, utterly overthrew it: and al∣though Serle Percie reedified it, being immediately upon the comming in of the Nor∣mans head-ruler of the same; yet now it scarce affordeth any footing at all of the an∣cient dignity. Hard by, upon a steepe hill, howbeit betweene two others higher than it,* 1.168 toward the Sea, stood by report, the Castle of Wada a Saxon Duke, who in [ B] that confused Anarchy of the Northumbers, and massacre of Princes and Nobles, having combined with those that murdred King Ethered, gave battaile unto King Ardulph at Whalley in Lancashire: but with so disasterous successe, that after his owne power was discomfited and put to flight, himselfe was faine to flie: and after∣wards by a languishing sicknesse ended his life; and heere within the hill betweene two entire and solid stones about seven foote high lieth entombed: which stones because they stand eleven foote asunder, the people doubt not to affirme, that hee was a mighty Giant. Neere unto this place, long time after, Peter * 1.169 de Maloulacy built a Castle, which being full as it were of grace and beauty he named in French Moult-Grace, as wee reade in the History of Meaulx, but because it became a most [ C] grievous yoke unto the neighbour Inhabitants, the people masters alwaies of our u∣suall speech,* 1.170 by change of one letter termed it Moult-grave, by which name although the reason thereof be not so well knowne, the world takes knowledge of it. This Pe∣ter de Mololacu, commonly called Mauley (that I may in this point satisfie the curi∣ous) borne in Poictou in France, marryed the onely daughter of Robert de Turnham, in the Raigne of King Richard the First: in whose right he entred upon a very great inheritance heere:* 1.171 after whom succeeded in order seven Peters called Lords Mau∣ley: who give for their Armes A Bend Sables in an Eschocheon Or. But when the seventh dyed issuelesse, this the Manours of Dancaster, Bainton, Bridesalle, &c. were parted by the sisters, betweene the families of the Salvains and Bigots.

[ D] Neere unto this place,* 1.172 as elsewhere in this shore, is found blacke Amber or Geate: Some take it to be Gagates,* 1.173 which in old time they held to be one of the rare gems and precious stones. It groweth among the cliffes and rockes, where they chinke and gape asunder. Before it be polished, it is of a reddish and rusty colour: but af∣ter it bee once polished, it becommeth, as saith Solinus, as a* 1.174 Gemme of a bright ra∣diant blacke colour. Touching which, Rhemnius Palamon out of Dionysius Afer thus versifieth:

Praefulget nigro splendore Gagates. Hic lapis ardescens austro perfus••s aquarum, [ E] Ast oleo perdens flammas, mirabile visu Attritus rapit hic teneras seu succina fr••ndes.

The Geat is blacke and shineth passing bright, Which Stone in water dipt and drencht, takes fire and burneth light. In oile, a wonder for to see, the flame is quickly done, And like to Amber rub it hard, small stickes it catcheth soone.

And Marbodaeus in his little booke of precious stones,

[ F] Nascitur in Lycia lapis, & prope gemma Gagates, Sed genus eximium foecunda Britannia mittit, Lucidus & niger est, levis & lavissimu•• idem: Vicinas paleas trabit attritu calefactus, Ardet aqua lotus, restinguitur unctus olivo.

Geat is a Stone, and Gemme well nere, that men in Lycia finde, [ A] But fruitfull Britan yeelds the best simply of all that kinde. Of colour blacke, yet bright it is, most smoothe and light withall; Well rubbed and enchaul'd thereby, thin strawes and fescues small That are neere hand it drawes thereto: it burnes in water drencht, Annoint the same with fatty oile, the flame streigthwaies is quencht.

Heare also what Solinus saith; In Britaine there is great store of Gagates, or Geat, and an excellent stone it is: If you demand the colour, it is a bright radiant blacke: if the qua∣lity, it is in manner nothing weighty: If the nature, it burneth in water, and is quenched with oile: if the vertue, being made hote with rubbing, it holdeth such things as are applied there∣to. [ B] From Whitby the shore gives backe Westward:* 1.175 by which lyeth Cliveland, ta∣king that name as it seemeth of steepe bankes, which in our language wee call Cliffes; for, there runne all along the side thereof cliffie hilles; at the foote of which, the country spreadeth into a Plaine full of fertile fields.

Upon the shore, Sken grave a little Village is much benefited by taking great store of fish: where also, by report, was caught a Sea-man about 70. yeeres since, that for certaine daies together fed of raw fishes: but espying his opportunity escaped away unto his proper element againe. Whensoever the windes are laied, and that up∣on still weather the sea is most calme, and the water lieth as one would say levell and plaine without any noise: there is heard heere many times on a sudden a great way [ C] off, as it were, an horrible and a fearefull groning: at which time the fishermen dare not launch out farre into the deepe, as beleeving according to their shallow reach, that the Ocean is a fell and cruell beast, and being then very hungry desireth greedily in that sort to devoure mens bodies. Beneath Sken-grave, is situate Kilton Castle within a Parke, which belonged sometime to the habitation of the Thwengs, whose patri∣mony descended to the Barons of Lumley, Hilton, and Daubeneie: And there joyneth almost close unto it Skelton Castle, appertaining to the ancient family of the Barons Brus,* 1.176 who derive their descent from Robert Brus the Norman. The said Robert had two sonnes, Adam Lord of Skelton, and Robert of Anan-dale in Scotland: from whom is descended the royall stem of Scotland. But Peter Brus the fifth Lord of Skelton di∣ed [ D] without issue, and left his sisters to inherite: namely Agnes, wife to Walter Falcon∣berg: Lucie,* 1.177 wedded to Marmaduke Thweng, of whom is come the Baron Lumley: Margaret, married to Robert Ros; and Laderina to John Belle-eau, men in that age of honourable reputation. The heires successively of Walter Falconberg flourished a long time; but in the end by a female, the possessions came to Sir William Nevill, who was a redoubted Knight for martiall prowesse, and by King Edward the Fourth advanced to the title of Earle of Kent. And his daughters were bestowed in marri∣age upon Sir John Cogniers, N. Bedhowing, and R. Strangwaies.

Neere unto Hunt-cliffe, and not farre from the shore there appeare aloft at a vale water certaine Rockes, about which the fishes that wee call Seales, short (as some [ E] thinke) for Sea-veales, meete together in droves to sleepe and sunne themselves: and upon that rocke which is next unto the shore, there lieth one, as it were to keepe the Centinell: and as any man approcheth neere, he either by throwing downe a big stone, or by tumbling himselfe into the water with a great noise, giveth a signall to the rest to looke unto themselves and get into the water. Most affraid they bee of men: against whom when they chase them, they being destitute of water fling backeward with their hinder feete a cloud, as it were, of sand and gravell stones, yea and often times drive them away: For women they care not so much: and therefore whosoever would take them, use to bee clad in womens apparell. In the same coast are found stones, some of yellowish, others of a reddish colour, and [ F] some againe with a rough cast crust over them of a certaine salt matter, which by their smell and taste make shew of Coperose, Nitre, and Brimstone: and also great store of Marquesites in colour resembling brasse.

Hard by, at Huntly Nabb, the shore that lay for a great way in length open, riseth

[ A] now up with craggy rockes, at the rootes wherof there lie scattering here and there stones of divers bignesse, so artificially by nature shaped round in maner of a Globe, that one would take them to be big bullets made by the turners hand for shot to bee discharged out of great ordinance. In which, if you breake them, are found stony serpents enwrapped round like a wreath, but most of them are headles. Then see you from thence Wilton Castle, sometime the Bulmers: and above it at Dobham the river Tees voideth into the Sea after it hath lodged sundry rivers, and at the last one that is namelesse,* 1.178 beside Yare a mercate towne well knowne, which river watereth Stokes∣ley, a little mercate towne, likewise that hath a long time appertained to the Noble family of Eure. Beneath which places, Wharton Castle belonging in times past to [ B] the Barons Menill, and Harlsey to the family of Hotham and afterward to Stragwaies, now wrestle with old age, and hardly hold up their heads.

The mouth of Tees aforesaid, suspected in times past of sailers, is now found to be a sure road and harbour: and to give direction for safe accesse and entrance unto it, there are erected on both sides thereof within our remembrance high turrets with light.* 1.179 Foure miles from this Tees mouth, standeth Gisburgh on high; now a small towne, but whiles it stood in flourishing estate, it was right glorious for a very faire and rich Abbay, built by Robert de Brus, Lord of the place, about the yeere of our Salvation 1119, and for the common buriall place of all the gentry and nobility in this tract; which also brought forth Walter de Heminford no unlearned Historio∣grapher. [ C] This verily is a passing good place, and may well for pleasantnesse, delight∣some variety, and rare gifts of Nature, contend with Puteoli in Italy, which in regard of healthy situation it also farre excelleth. The aire is mollified and made more mild by the mountaines seated betweene it, and what way the sea yeeldeth a cold and winterly disposition: the soile fruitfull and plenteous in grasse affordeth delectable floures a great part of the yeere, and richly aboundeth with vaines of metall and A∣lum-earth of sundry colours, but especially of ocher and murray, likewise of iron, out of which they have now begunne to try very good Alum, and Coperose. Which with learned skill and cunning not many yeeres since, Sir Thomas Chal••ner Knight (a learned searcher into natures workes, and unto whose charge, our most high and [ D] mightie King hath committed his son Prince Henry, the lovely joy and delight of Brittaine) first discovered, by observing, that the leaves of trees were of a more weak greene colour here than in other places; that the oakes had their rootes spreading broad but very eb within the ground, the which had much strength but small store of sappe, that the earth standing upon clay, and being of divers colours, whitish, yellowish, and blew, was never frozen, and in a cleere night, glittered in the pathes like unto glasse.* 1.180 Not farre off, Onusbery or Rosebery Topping mounteth up a mighty height, and maketh a goodly shew a farre off, serving unto sailers for a marke of di∣rection, and to the neighbour inhabitants for a prognostication: For, so often as the head thereof hath his cloudy cap on, lightly there followeth raine: whereupon they [ E] have a Proverbiall Rhime, when Rosebery Topping weares a cap: Let Cliveland then be∣ware a clap. Neere unto the top of it, out of an huge rocke there floweth a spring of water medicinable for diseased eies: and from hence there is a most goodly and plea∣sant prospect downe into the vallies below lying a great way about, to the hils full of grasse, greene meddowes, delightsome pastures, fruitfull corne fields, riverets sto∣red with fish, the river Tees mouth full of rodes and harbours, the ground plaine and open without danger of inundation, and into the sea with ships therein under saile. Beneath it, standeth Kildale, a Castle of the Percies Earles of Northumberland: and more Eastward Danby, which from Brus also by the Thwengs came unto the Baron Latimers, from whose heire descended the Willoughbeies, Barons of Brooke. But [ F] this Danby with other possessions was sold to the Nevills, of which family Sir George Nevill was by King Henry the sixth called among the Barons to the Parliaments, un∣der the name of Lord Latimer, in whose progenie and posterity this dignity hath continued unto our daies. There remaineth nothing else heere for me to note, but that the Barons Meinill held certaine lands in this shire of the Archbishops of Can∣terbury,* 1.181

and for the same, the Coigniers, Strangwaies and Darcies, descended from [ A] them, are bound to performe certaine service to the said Archbishops. And whereas the King of England by his Prerogative shall have the Wardship (these bee the very words of the Praerogative) of all their lands who hold of him in chiefe by Knights service,* 1.182 of which themselves as tenants shall be seized in their Demesne as of Fae, the day whereon they die, of whomsoever they held by the like service, so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the Crowne, unto the full and lawfull age of the heire: Yet are excepted these Fees and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durrham, betweene Tine and Tees, &c. so that they may have the Wardship of such lands, although elsewhere they held of the King.

Farther within the country among the mountaines of Blaca amore, there offereth [ B] it selfe (besides wandering beakes and violent swift brookes, which challenge the vallies every where, as their owne to passe through) no memorable thing, unlesse it be Pickering; a good bigge towne belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster, situate upon an hill and fortified with an old Castle, unto which a number of small villages lying there round about doe appertaine: whereupon the country adjoyning is com∣monly called Pickering Lith, The Libertie of Pickering, and Forest of Pickering, the which King Henry the Third gave unto his younger sonne Edmund, Earle of Lan∣caster. Wherein, neere unto the river Darwent standeth Atton, that gave name un∣to the right noble family of the Attons Knights, descended from the Lords Vescy: the inheritance of which family, was by the daughters parted betweene Edward [ C] Saint Iohn, the Evers, and the Coigniers. Now from Edward Saint Iohn a great por∣tion thereof came by a daughter to Henrie Bromflet.* 1.183 Which Henrie verily was sum∣moned to the High court of Parliament by these expresse termes, elsewhere not to be found in Summons. Our Will is, that both yee and your heires males, of your body lawfully issuing, be Barons of Vescy. Afterwards, that title passed away by a daughter to the Cliffords. On the otherside, foure miles from Pickering, neere unto Dow, a swift running riveret, lieth Kirkby-Morside hard unto the hilles, whereof it had that name, a Market towne not of the meanest reckoning, and the possession sometime of the Estotevilles.

Behind these, Westward, Rhidal lieth low, a goodly, pleasant and plentifull vale [ D] adorned with three and twenty Parish-churches, through the mids wherof runneth the river Rhie: A place (as saith William of Newburrough) wast, desolate, and full of horrour, before that Walter Espec had granted it to the Monkes of the Cluniak or∣der, and founded there an Abbay. In this vale is Elmesly seated, which, if I deceive not my selfe, Bede called Vlmetum; where, that Robert called de Rosse, surnamed Fur∣san built a Castle; nere unto which the river Recall hideth it selfe under the ground. More beneath, hard by the river side standeth Riton, an ancient possession of the an∣cient familie of the Percihaies, commonly named Percies. From thence Rhie carri∣eth with him the streames of many a brooke into Derwent, which watereth in this vale Malton a Market towne well knowne and frequented, for corne, horses, fish, and [ E] implements of husbandry: where are to be seene the foundations of an old Castle, belonging,* 1.184 as I have heard say, in old time to the Vescies, Barons in these parts of great estate and honor. Their pedigree as appeareth evidently by the Kings re∣cords, is derived from William Tyson, who being Lord of Malton and of Alnewicke in Northumberland, was slain in the battaile at Hastings against the Normans. Whose onely daughter was given in marriage to Ivo de Vescy a Norman, and hee left behind him his only daughter likewise named Beatrice, with whō Eustach the son of Fitz Iohn * 1.185 with one eie contracted marriage, who in the raigne of Stephen founded the reli∣gious houses at Malton, and Watton. For, his second wife daughter to William, Con∣stable of Chester, was Ladie of Watton. William the sonne of Eustach by Beatrice, [ F] being ripped out of his mothers wombe, assumed unto him the name of Vescy, and the Armes, a Cross-floury Argent, in a shield Gueles. This William begat of Beatrice daughter to Robert Estotevill of Knaresburg, two sonnes, Eustach de Vescy, who tooke to wife Margaret daughter to William King of the Scots, and Sir Warin de Vescy

[ A] Lord of Knapton. As for Eustach, father hee was of William, who begat John, that died without issue,* 1.186 and William, so renowned for his exploits in Ireland; and these changed the Armes of their house, into a shield Or with a crosse Sables. But Willi∣am, after that his legitimate sonne John, died in the warre of Wales, granted unto King Edward certaine lands in Ireland, that his illegitimate sonne William surna∣med of Kildare, might inherit his fathers estate. And hee ordained Anthony Bec Bishop of Durrham his feofie in trust to the use of his sonne: but he was scarce trusty as touching Alnewic, Eltham in Kent, and other lands; which he is reported to have conveied indirectly to his owne use. This illegitimate sonne young Vescy was slaine in the Battaile of Sterling in Scotland. And at length the title fell backe unto the [ B] line of the Attons, considering that Margaret the only daughter of Sir Gwarin Vescy was wedded unto Gilbert de Atton. But, heereof enough if not too much, and of it I have spoken before. Neere unto this vale there flourished two famous Abbaies, Newborrough (unto which we are indebted for William of Newborrough, a learned and diligent writer of the English Historie) now, the habitation of the worshipfull family of Bellasise, descended out of the Bishopricke of Durrham: and Bellelan∣da commonly Biland,* 1.187 both founded and endowed by Robert Mowbray. This family of the Mowbraies was for power, nobility, and wealth comparable to any other, and possessed very faire lands with the Castles of Slingesby, Threske, and others in this Tract. The originall of this race if you desire to understand, I will compendiously [ C] set it downe. When Roger de Mowbray Earle of Northumberland, and R. * 1.188 de Grun∣de-beofe for their disloialtie were dissezed of all their possessions, King Henry the First bestowed a great part thereof upon Nigell, or Niele de Albenie of the same fa∣mily that the Albeneis Earles of Arundell were descended; a man of very high birth in Normandie, who had bin Bowbearer to King William Rufus: and so enriched him thereby,* 1.189 that he held in England 140. Knights fees, and in Normandie 120. He commanded also that Roger his sonne should assume the name of Mowbray: from whom flowred out the Mowbraies Earles of Nottingham, and Dukes of Norfolke. To these Mowbraies also belonged in times past Gilling Castle standing hard by: but now unto that ancient and worshipfull family, which of their faire bush of haire got [ D] their name Fairfax.* 1.190 For Fax in the old English tongue signifieth haires, or the haire of the head: whereupon our progenitours called a Comet or blasing starre, A Faxed starre, like as a place, whereof I have spoken before, Haly-fax, of holy haires.

Then beneath these, Southward, lieth Calaterium Nemus, commonly called, The Forest of Galtres, shaded in some places with trees, in other some a wet flat, full of moist and moorish quavemires: very notorious in these daies by rea∣son of a solemne horse running,* 1.191 wherein the horse that outrunneth the rest hath for his prise a little golden bell. It is almost incredible what a multitude of people conflow hither from all parts to these games, and what great wagers are laid on the horses heads for their swift running. In this Forest standeth Creac, which Egfrid King [ E] of Northumberland in the yeer 684, gave with three miles round about unto Saint Cuthbert: by whom it came to the Church of Durrham. Scarce foure miles hence is situate most pleasantly among little woods and groves Sherry-Hutton, a very pro∣per Castle built by Sir Bertrand Bulmer, and reedified by Raulph Nevil, the first Earle of Westmorland. Neere unto which standeth Hinderskell a little Castle, built by the Barons of Greystocke, which others call Hunderd-skell, of a number of fountaines that spring up and rise there.

Behind the hilles Westward, where the country spreadeth it selfe out againe into a more fresh and plaine champion, lieth Alverton-shire, commonly called Northal∣lerton-shire,* 1.192 a little countrie watered with the riveret Wiske, and taking the name of [ F] Northalverton a towne, sometime called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is nothing else but a long broad street; howbeit, having in it on S. Bartholomewes day the greatest Faire of Kine and Oxen, and of most resort, that ever I saw in all my life. King William Rufus gave this with the territory adjoining unto the Church of Durrham, to the Bishops of which See it is very much beholden. For, William Comin who by force held the

Bishopricke of Durrham, built the Castle there, and granted it unto his nephew, [ A] which now is in manner quite decaied and gone. The Bishops likewise his successors granted unto it certaine liberties and immunities. For, in the Booke of Durrham we read that Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durrham fortified the towne,* 1.193 having obtained licence of the King, that among those unlawfull castles, which by Commandement were then destroyed in many places of England, this onely should have the priviledge to stand still: which not∣withstanding, the King commanded afterward to be layd even with the ground.* 1.194 Hard by this, was that field foughten, which they commonly call the Battaile of the Standard: in which, David King of Scots, who with his unexampled cruelty had made this country almost a wildernesse, was after so great a slaughter of his people put to flight; that then and never before our countrimen thought they were fully reven∣ged. [ B] For, that indeed came to passe in this battaile, which Raulfe the Bishop said, when before the battaile in an oration he encouraged the English to fight: A con∣fused multitude untrained, is an impediment to it selfe, in prosperous successe to hurt others; and in adverse fortune, to escape it selfe. This was called The battaile of the Standard, because the English keeping themselves close together about the standard received the first onset and shock of the Scotish, endured it, and at length put them to flight. And this Standard as I have seene it pictured in ancient bookes, was a mighty huge cha∣riot supported with wheeles, wherein was set a pole of a great height in manner of a mast, and upon the very top thereof stood a crosse to bee seene, and under the crosse hung a banner. This when it was advanced was a token, that every one [ C] should prepare himselfe to fight, and it was reputed as an holy and sacred altar that each man was to defend with all power possible, resembling the same for al the world that Carrocium of the Italians, which might never be brought abroad but in the grea∣test extremitie and danger of the whole state.

Within this litle shire also, Threske, commonly called Thruske is worth to bee mentioned: which had sometime a most strong Castle out of which Roger Mowbray displaied his banner of rebellion, and called in the king of Scots to the overthrow of his owne native Country: what time as King Henry the Second had rashly and in∣considerately digged, as it were, his owne grave, by investing his sonne King, in e∣quall authority with himselfe. But this rebellion was in the end quenched with bloud, [ D] and this Castle quite dismantled: so that beside a ditch and rampire, I could see no∣thing there of a Castle. Another firebrand also of rebellion flamed out heere in the Raigne of Henry the Seventh. For when the unruly Commons tooke it most grie∣vously that a light subsidie granted by the States of the Kingdome in Parliament, was exacted of them, and had driven away the Collectors thereof, forthwith (as it is commonly seene that Rashnesse speeding once well can never keepe a meane nor make an end) they violently set upon Henry Percie,* 1.195 Earle of Northumberland, who was Lieutenant of these parts, and slew him in this place: and having John Egremond to be their leader, tooke armes against their Country and their Prince: but a few daies after they felt the smart of their lawlesse insolency grievously and justly as they [ E] had deserved. Heere hard by are Soureby and Brakenbake, belonging to a very anci∣ent and right worshipfull family of the L••scelles: also more Southward Sezay, some∣time of the Darels (from whence a great family branched) and afterwards the Daw∣nies who for a long time flourished heere maintaining the degree and dignity of Knights right worthily.

* 1.196The first and onely Earle of Yorke (after William Mallet, and one or two Estotevils of the Norman bloud, who they say were Sheriffes by inheritance) was Otho son to Henry Leo Duke of Bavar and Saxony, by Maude the daughter of Henry the Second, King of England, who was afterwards proclaimed Emperour and stiled by the name of Otho the fourth. From whose brother William, another sonne of Maud, are de∣scended [ F] the Dukes of Brunswicke and Luneburgh in Germanie, who for a token of this their kinred with the Kings of England give the same Armes that the first Kings of England of Norman bloud bare, to wit two Leopards or Lions Or, in a shield Gueles. Long after, King Richard the Second created Edmund of Langley, fifth

[ A] sonne of King Edward the Third, Duke of Yorke: who by a second daughter of Peter King of Castile and of Leon had two sonnes. Edward the eldest, in his fathers life time, was first Earle of Cambridge, afterwards Duke of Aumarle, and in the end Duke of Yorke; who manfully fighting in the battaile at Agincourt in France lost his life, leaving no children: and Richard his second sonne Earle of Cambridge, who having marryed Anne sister of Edmund Mortimer,* 1.197 whose grandmother like∣wise was the onely daughter of Leonell Duke of Clarence, and practising to ad∣vance Edmund his wives brother to the royall dignity, was streightwaies intercep∣ted and beheaded, as if hee had beene corrupted by the French to destroy King Henry the Fifth.

[ B] Sixteene yeeres after, his sonne Richard, was restored in bloud through the ex∣ceeding, but unadvised favour of King Henry the Sixth:* 1.198 as being sonne to Richard Earle of Cambridge brother to Edward Duke of Yorke, and cozin also to Edmund Earle of March. And now being Duke of Yorke, Earle of March and of Vlster, Lord of Wigmore, Clare, Trim, and Conaght, hee bare himselfe so lofty, that shortly hee made claime openly in Parliament, against King Henry the Sixth, as in his owne right, for the Crowne: which he had closely affected by indirect courses before in making complaints of the misgovernment of the State, spreading seditious rumours, scat∣tering Libels abroad, complotting secret Conspiracies, and stirring up tumults, yea and open Warres: laying downe his Title thus, as being the sonne of Anne Morti∣mer, [ C] who came of Philip the daughter and sole heire of Leonel Duke of Clarence, third sonne of King Edward the Third, and therefore to be preferred by very good right, in succession of the Kingdome, before the children of John of Gaunt the fourth sonne of the said Edward the Third. And when answere was made unto him, that the Nobles of the Realme and the Duke himselfe had sworne Alleageance unto the King,* 1.199 that the Kingdome by authority of Parliament had beene conferred and entailed upon Henry the Fourth and his heires; that the Duke claiming his Title, from the Duke of Clarence never tooke upon him the Armes of the Duke of Cla∣rence, that Henry the Fourth held the Crowne in right from King Henry the Third; hee easily avoyded all these allegations: namely, that the said oath unto the King [ D] taken by mans law was in no wise to bee performed, when as it tended to the sup∣pression of the truth and right, which stand by the Law of God: That, there was no need of Parliamentary authority to entaile the Crowne and Kingdome unto the Lancastrians, neither would they themselves seeke for it so, if they had stood upon any right thereunto. As for the Armes of the Duke of Clarence which were his by right hee forbare of purpose to give them untill then; like as hee did, to claime his right to the Imperiall Crowne: And as for the right or Title derived from king Henry the Third, it was a meere ridiculous devise and manifest untruth to cloake the violent usurpation of Henry the Fourth, and therefore condemned of all men. Albeit these plees in the behalfe of the Duke of Yorke stood directly with law: [ E] yet, for remedy of imminent dangers the matter was ordered thus by the wisdome of the Parliament: That Henry the Sixth should enjoy the right of the Kingdome for tearme of life onely and that Richard Duke of Yorke should be proclaimed heire ap∣parant of the Kingdome, he and his heires to succeed after him: provided alwaies, that neither of them should plot or practise ought to the destruction of the other. Howbeit the Duke immediately was transported so headlong with ambition,* 1.200 that hee went about to preoccupate and forestall his owne hopes, and so hee raised that deadly Warre betweene the Houses of Yorke and Lancaster, distinguished by the white and red Rose, wherein himselfe soone after lost his life at Wakefield, King Henry the Sixth was foure times taken Prisoner, and in the end despoiled both of his [ F] Kingdome and life. Edward Earle of March sonne to the said Richard, obtained the Crowne, and being deposed from the same, recovered it againe (thus inconstant for∣tune disported herselfe,* 1.201 lifting up and throwing downe Princes at her pleasure) ma∣ny Princes of the royall bloud, and a number of the Nobility lost their lives: those

hereditary and rich Provinces in France belonging to the Kings of England were [ A] lost, the wealth of the Realme wholly wasted, and the poore people thereof over∣whelmed with all manner of misery. Edward now being established in his royall Throne, and in the ranke of Kings carrying the name of Edward the Fourth, gave unto Richard his second sonne the Title of Duke of Yorke, who together with king Edward the Fifth his brother was by their Unkle Richard the Third murdered. Then king Henry the Seventh granted the same Title unto his younger sonne, who afterwards was crowned king of England by the name of Henry the Eight. And even now of late King James invested Charles his second sonne (whom before,* 1.202 hee had created in Scotland Duke of Albany, Marquesse of Ormond, Earle of Rosse and Baron of Ardmanoch) a childe not full foure yeeres of age, Duke of Yorke, by [ B] cincture of a sword, imposition of a Cap and Coronet of gold upon his head, and by de∣livering unto him a verge of gold: after he had according to the order with due complements made the day before, both him and eleven more of Noble Parentage, Knights of the Bath.

Reckoned there are in this County Parishes 459. under which he very many Chappels, for number of Inhabitants equall unto great Parishes.

[ A]

RICHMOND-SHIRE.

THE rest of this Country which lyeth toward the North-West and carryeth a great compasse, is called Richmond-shire, or Richmount-shire, taking the name from a Castle, which Alan Earle of little Britaine had built: unto whom William the Conquerour gave this Shire (which before time belonged to Eadwin an Englishman) by these short letters [ B] Patents as it is set downe in the booke of Richmond Fees. I William sirnamed Bastard, King of England, doe give and grant unto thee my Nephew Alane Earle of Britaine,* 1.203 and to thine heires for ever, all and every the Manour houses and lands which late belonged to Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire, with the Knights fees and other liberties and customes, as freely and in as honourable wise, as the said Eadwin held the same: Given at our Leaguer before the City of Yorke.

This Shire most of it lieth very high, with ragged rockes and swelling moun∣taines, whose sloping sides in some places beare good grasse, the bottomes and val∣lies are not altogether unfruitfull. The hilles themselves within, are stored with lead,* 1.204 pit-coale, and Coper. For, in a Charter of king Edward the Fourth, there is [ C] mention made of a Mine or Delfe of Copper, neere unto the very towne of Richmond. But covetousnesse, which driveth men even as farre as to hell hath not yet pierced into these hilles, affrighted perchance with the difficulty of carriage: whereas there have beene found in the tops of these mountaines, as also in other places stones like unto sea winkles or cockles and other sea fish,* 1.205 if they be not the wonders of nature, I will with Orosius a Christian Historiographer deeme them to be undoubted tokens of the generall deluge that surrounded the face of the whole earth in Noahs time. When the Sea (saith he) in Noahs daies overflowed all the earth, and brought a generall floud, so that the whole Globe thereof, being therewith surrounded and covered, there was one face, as of the Firmament, so also of the Sea. The soundest Writers most evidently teach, That all [ D] mankinde perished, a few persons excepted, who by vertue of their faith were reserved alive for offspring and propagation. Howbeit even they also have witnessed that some there had beene, who although they were ignorant of the times past, and knew not the Authour himselfe of times, yet gathered conjecturally as much by giving a guesse by those rough stones, which wee are wont to finde on hilles remote from the Sea, resembling Cocles and Oisters, yea and oftentimes eaten in hollow, with the waters.

Where this Country bordereth upon Lancashire; amongst the mountaines it is in most places so waste, solitary, unpleasant, and unsightly, so mute and still also, that the borderers dwelling thereby have called certaine Riverets creeping this way,* 1.206 Hell-beckes. But especially that, about the head of the River Ure, which having [ E] a Bridge over it of one entire stone falleth downe such a depth, that it striketh in a certaine horror to as many as looke downe. And in this Tract there be safe harbors for Goates and Deere, as well red as fallow, which for their huge bignesse with their ragged and branching hornes are most sightly.

The River Ure, which wee have often spoken of before, hath his fall heere out of the Westerne Mountaines; and first of all cutting through the middest of the Vale called Wentsedale,* 1.207 whiles it is yet but small as being neere unto his Spring-head, where great flockes of Sheepe doe pasture, and which in some places bea∣reth Lead stones plentifully, is encreased by a little River comming out of the South called Baint, which with a great noise streameth out of the Poole Semer. [ F] At the very place where these Rivers meete, and where there stand a few small Cotages which of the first Bridge made over Ure, they call Baintbrig, there lay in old time a Garison of the Romanes: whereof the very Reliques are at this day remaining. For, on the toppe of an hill, which of a Fort, or Burge they now call Burgh, appeare the ground workes of an ancient Hold, containing about five acres

of ground in compasse; and beneath it Eastward, many tokens of some old habita∣tion [ A] and dwelling places. Where, amongst many other signes of Roman Antiquity, I have seene of late this fragment of an antique Inscription in a very faire letter, with Winged Victory supporting the same.

IMP CAES. L. SEPTIMIO PIO PERTINACI AUGU.— IMP CAESARI. M. AURELIO [ B] APIO FELICI AUGUSTO —

* 1.208BRACCHIO CAEMEN∣TICIUM VI NER VIO∣RUM SUB CURALA SE∣NECINON [ C] AMPLISSI∣MIO PERIL. VISPIUS —PRAELEGIO.—

* 1.209By this we may guesse, that the said hold at Burgh, was in times past named BRAC∣CHIUM, [ D] which before time had been made of turfe, but now built with stone and the same layed with good morter. Also, that the sixth Cohort of the Nervians lay there in Garison who may seeme to have had also their place of Summer aboade in that high hill hard by fensed with a banke and trench about it, which now they tearme Ethelbury. And not long since, there was digged up the Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour:* 1.210 who, as Lampridius writeth, was sirnamed by his flatte∣ring clawbackes, BRITANNICUS, even when the Britans would have elected an Emperour against him. And then it may seeme, was this Statue of his set up, when he prizing himselfe more than a man, proceeded to that folly, that he gave comman∣dement he should be called, The Romane Hercules, Iupiters sonne. For, hee was por∣traied [ E] in the habite of Hercules, and his right hand armed with a club: under which there lay, as I have heard, such a mangled Inscription as this, broken heere and there with voide places betweene: the draught whereof was badly taken out, and before I came hither was utterly spoiled.

—CAESARI, AUGUSTO MARCI AURELII FILIO — SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI [ F] VENTS PIUS.

[ A] This was to be seene in Nappa, an house built with turrets, and the chiefe seat of the Medcalfs, thought to be at this day the greatest family for multitude of the same name,* 1.211 in all England: for, I have heard that Sir Christopher Medcalfe knight, and the top of this kinred beeing of late high-Sheriffe of the shire, accompanied with three hundred men of the same house all on horsback and in a livery, met and recei∣ved the Justices of Assizes, and so brought them to Yorke. From hence runneth Vre downe a maine,* 1.212 full of Creifishes, ever since Sir Christopher Medcalfe in our remem∣brance brought that kinde of fish hither out of the South part of England: and be∣tweene two rockes, whereof the place is named Att-scarre, it runneth head long downe,* 1.213 not far from Bolton, a stately Castle, the ancient seat of the Barons Scrops, and [ B] which Richard Lord le Scrope,* 1.214 and Chancellour of England under king Richard the Second built with exceeding great coste: and now bending his course Eastward, commeth to Midelham,* 1.215 the honour, whereof (as wee reade in the Genealogie or Pedegree of the Nevils) Alan Earle of Richmond bestowed upon his younger brother Rinebald, with all the lands, which before their comming belonged to Gil∣patrick the Dane.* 1.216 His nephew by his sonne Raulph, named Robert Fitz-Raulph, had all Wentsedale also by gift of Conan Earle of Britaine and of Richmond: and at Midleham raised a most strong Castle. His sonne Ranulph erected a little Abbay for Chanons at Coverham (called now short, Corham) in Coverdale: whose sonne Raulph had a daughter named Mary,* 1.217 who being wedded to Robert Lord Nevill with this [ C] marriage, translated this very faire and large inheritance as her portion into the fa∣mily of Nevils. Which Robert Nevill having had many children by his wife, was taken in adultery unknowne; and by the husband of the adulteresse: being for re∣venge berest of his genitours, shortly after dyed with extremity of paine.

Then Ure after it hath passed a few miles forward watereth Iervis or Iorvalle Ab∣bay of Cistertians founded first at Fors, and after translated hither by Stephen Earle of Britaine and Richmond,* 1.218 but now wholly ruinated; and after that, Masham, which was the possession of the Scropes of Masham; who as they sprung from the stocke of the Scropes of Bolton, so they were by marriages ingraffed againe into the same. On the other side of this River but more inward standeth Snath,* 1.219 the principall house of [ D] the Barons Latimer,* 1.220 who derived their noble descent from George Nevill, younger sonne of Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmorland, and he received this Title of honour from king Henry the Sixth; when as the ancienter house of the Latimers ex∣pired in a female, and so by a continued succession they have flourished unto these our daies: when for default of male issue of the last Baron Latimer, that goodly and rich inheritance was divided among his daughters, marryed into the families of the Percies, Cecils, D'anvers and Cornwallis. Neither are there any other places in this part of the shire worth the naming that Ure runneth by,* 1.221 unlesse it bee Tanfeld, the habitation in times past of the Gernegans knights: from whom it descended to the Marmions:* 1.222 the last of whom left for his heire Amice second wife to John Lord [ E] Grey of Rotherfeld: by whom he had two sonnes; John that assumed the sirname of Marmion and died issuelesse: and Robert who left behinde him one onely daughter and sole heire Elizabeth, wife to Sir Henry Fitz-Hugh, a noble Baron.

After this,* 1.223 Ure entertaineth the River Swale, so called (as Th.Spot writeth) of his swiftnesse, selfe, into it with a maine and violent streame: which Swale runneth downe Eastward out of the West Mountaines also, scarce five miles above the head of Ure: a River reputed very sacred amongst the ancient English, for that in it, when the English Saxons first embraced Christianity, there were in one day baptized with festivall joy by Paulinus the Archbishop of Yorke,* 1.224 above tenne thousand men, besides women and little children. This Swale passeth downe [ F] along an open Vale of good largenesse, which of it is called Swal-dale; having good plenty of grasse,* 1.225 but as great want of wood: first, by Marrick, where there stood an Abbay, built by the Askes men in old time of great name: also by Mask, a place full of lead ore.

Then runneth it through Richmond,* 1.226 the chiefe towne of the Country, having but

a small circuit of walles, but yet by reason of the Suburbs lying out in length at three [ A] Gates well peopled and frequented. Which, Alan the first Earle thereof built, repo∣sing small trust in Gilling (a place or Manour house of his hard by) to withstand the violence of the Danes and English,* 1.227 whom the Normans had despoiled of their in∣heritance, and hee adorned it with this name, as one would say, The rich Mount: he fensed it with a wall and a most strong Castle, which being set upon a rocke, from an high looketh downe to Swale, that with a mighty rumbling noise rusheth rather than runneth among the stones. For, the said house or Manour place of Gilling was more holy in regard of devout religion, than sure and strong for any fortification it had, e∣ver since that therein (Beda calleth it Gethling) Oswy King of Northumberland being entertained guest-wise, was by his hoste forelaid and murthered: for the expiation [ B] whereof, the said Monastery was built, highly accounted of among our ancestours. More Northward,* 1.228 Ravenswath Castle sheweth it selfe compassed with a good large wall, but now fallen, which was the seat of the Barons named Fitz-Hugh, extracted from the ancient line of the English Nation: who were Lords of the place before the Normans Conquest, and lived in great name unto King Henry the Seventh his daies, enriched with faire possessions by marriage with the heires of the noble houses of Furneaux, and Marmion: which came at last by the females unto the Fienes Lords Dacres in the South, and to the Parrs. Three miles beneath Richmond, Swale runneth by that ancient City which Ptolomee and Antonine call CATURACTONIUM and CATARRACTON,* 1.229 but Bede Catarractan, and in another place, the Village neere [ C] unto Catarracta: whereupon I suppose it had the name of Catarracta, that is, a Flud∣fall, or water-fall, considering hard by there is such a fall, but neerer unto Richmond; where, Swale rusheth rather than runneth as I have said with foaming waters, meet∣ing heere and there with rockes, whereby his streame is interrupted and broken. And wherefore should he call it the Towne neere unto Catarracta, if there were not there a water-fall? That it was in those daies a most famous City may be gathered out of Ptolomee: because he tooke there an observation of the heavens position: for, in the second booke and 6. chapter of his Great Construction, he describeth and setteth downe the 24. Parallele, through Catarractonium in Britaine, and maketh it to bee distant from the Aequator 57. degrees: yet in his Geographicall Tables he defineth [ D] the longest day to be 18. Aequinoctiall houres: so that by his owne calculation and account, it is distant from the Aequator 58. degrees. But at this day, as said that Poet.

—Magnum nil nisi Nomen habet. Nothing hath the same But onely a great name.

* 1.230For it is but a small Village, called Catarrick and Catarrick-bridge; howbeit well knowne both by the situation thereof nere unto the High street way which the Ro∣mans made, that here passeth over the river; and also by the heapes of rubbish here and there dispersed, which carry some shew of Antiquity, especially about Ketter∣cikswart [ E] and Burghale, somewhat farther off from the Bridge, and more Eastward hard by the river, where we beheld a mighty Mount and foure Bulwarkes raised as it were with exceeding great labour up to a great height. What sorrow it susteined in times past at the Picts and Saxons hands, when with fire and sword they made foule havocke of all the Cities in Britaine, I cannot certainly tell: but it seemeth to have flourished after the Saxon Empire was established: (Although Bede in every place calleth it Vicum, that is, a Village) untill that in the yeere 769. it was set on fire and burnt by Eanred or Beanred the Tyrant, who pitifully mangled the Kingdome of Northumberland. But both he streight after miserably perished by fire; and Catar∣ractoninum also beganne to revive againe out of the very ashes: For, in the 77. [ F] yeere after King Etheldred solemnized heere his marriage with the daughter of Offa King of the Mercians. Notwithstanding, it continued not long in good and flourishing estate: for, in that confusion immediately ensuing of the Danes who laied all waste, it was quite destroied.

[ A] Swale driveth on with a long course, not without some lets heere and there in his streame,* 1.231 not farre from Hornby Castle, belonging to the Family of Saint Quintin, which afterwards came to the Cogniers: and seeth nothing besides fresh pastures, country houses, and Villages, unlesse it be Bedal, standing by another River running into him:* 1.232 which Bedal glorieth much of a Baron it had named Sir Brian Fitz-Alan who flourished in the daies of King Edward the First, in regard of his worth, and his ancient Nobility, as descended from the Earles of Britaine, and Richmond: But for default of heires males the inheritance came by the daughters, to Stapletons, and the Greies of Rotherfeld. By this time Swale having left Richmond-shire behinde, commeth neerer unto Ure or Ouse, where hee visiteth Topcliffe the chiefe seat of the Percies; [ B] Marianus calleth it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; who writeth, that in the yeere of our Redemption 949. the States of Northumberland bound themselves there by an oath of Allegi∣ance unto King Eldred the West-Saxon. And at the very confluence of these Ri∣vers standeth Mitton, a small Village, but remarkable by no small slaughter. For, the Scottish in the yeere 1319. when the pestilence had consumed in manner all the manhood of England, having made an inrode thus farre robbing and ransacking all where they came, soone discomfited and put to flight no small power of Priests and country people, which the Archbishop of Yorke had led forth, with banner dis∣plaied into the field. But to returne backe againe to our matter. From CATARA∣CTONIUM, the high street or Port way divided it selfe in twaine: where it ta∣keth [ C] Northward,* 1.233 it leadeth by Caldwell and Aldburgh, which betokeneth An old Burrough. By what name it was knowne in ancient times I cannot easily guesse. By the great ruines it should seeme to have beene some notable place: and neere at hand there is seene a ditch by Stanwig a little Village, that runneth eight miles in length betweene the River Tees and Swale. Where the said High way goeth Northwestward about twelve miles off you meet with Bowes, which also is written Bowgh; now, a little Village: where in the ages aforegoing the Earles of Richmond had a prety Castelet, a certaine custome called Thorough-toll, and there Furcas, i. power to hang. But that in old time it was called in Antonines Itinerary, LAVA∣TRAE and LEVATRAE, both the account of distance, and the site thereof by [ D] the High street, which heere is evidently apparent by the ridge thereof, doe easily prove. But, that which maketh much to confirme the antiquity of it, is an ancient large Stone in the Church, sometimes used by them for an altar stone, with this in∣scription upon it, to the honour of Hadrian the Emperour.

IMP. CAESARI DIVI TRAIANI PARTHICI. Max. filio DIVI NERVAE NEPOTI TRAIANO. Hadria NO AUG. PONT. MAXIM. — [ E] COS. I.—P. P. COH. IIII. F.— IO. SEV.

This fragment also was there digged up.

— — [ F] NOL. CAE FRONTINUS. COH. I. THRAC. —

Whiles under Severus the Emperour, Virius Lupus ruled as Lieutenant Generall [ A] and Propraetor of Britaine, the first Cohort of the Thracians lay heere in Garison: for whose sake, he reedified the Bath or hote house: as appeareth by this inscription, which from hence hath beene translated to Cunnington, unto the house of that right worshipfull and learned Sir Robert Cotton, Knight.

* 1.234DAE. i. FORTUNAE VIRIUS LUPUS LEG. AUG. PR. PR. [ B] BALINEUM VI IGNIS EXUST∣UM. COH. I. THR∣ACUM REST∣ITUIT. CURANTE VAL. FRON∣TONE PRAE F— EQ. ALAE VETTO.

[ C]

Heere must I cause them to forgoe their errour, who by this Inscription falsely co∣pied forth,* 1.235 whiles they read untruly BALINGIUM, for BALINEUM, are of opi∣nion, that the name of the place was BALINGIUM. But if a man looke neerer to the words, hee shall finde it most evidently engraven in the stone BALINEUM: which word they used in old time,* 1.236 as the learned know, for BALNEUM, that is, A BATH, or Hote-house: who also are not ignorant that souldiers, as well as others, used ordinarily to bathe, both for health, and cleanlinesse: as who every day, before they did eate, in that age were wont to bathe: as also, that such like bathing houses both publique and private were made every where with so great coste and superflu∣ous excesse,* 1.237 That he thought himselfe poore and a very begger, who had not the walles of his [ D] bathing house resplendent with great and costly embossed Glasses. In which Bathes men and women both, washed one with another: albeit this had oftentimes beene prohibi∣ted as well by the Imperiall lawes, as the Synodall decrees.

In the declining estate of the Roman Empire the Company or Band of the Explo∣ratores, with their Captaine kept their station heere, under the dispose of the Gene∣rall of Britaine: as appeareth for certaine out of the NOTICE of Provinces, where it is named LAVATRES. But whereas such Bathes as these, were called also in La∣tine Lavacra, some Criticke, no doubt, will pronounce, that this place was named LAVATRAE in stead of LAVACRA: yet would I rather have it take the name of a little river running neere by, which, as I heare say, is called Laver. As for the later [ E] name Bowes, considering the old Towne was heere burnt downe to the ground (as the inhabitants with one voice doe report) I would thinke, it grew upon that oc∣casion. For, that which is burnt with fire the Britans still at this day, doe terme Bo∣eth; and by the same word, the Suburbes of Chester beyond the River Dee, which the Englishmen call Hanbridge, the Britans or Welshmen name Treboeth, that is, The burnt Towne, because in a tumult of the Welshmen it was consumed with fire.

Heere beginneth to rise that high hilly and solitary Country exposed to winde and raine,* 1.238 which because it is stony, is called in our native language Stane more. All heere round about is nothing but a wilde Desert, unlesse it bee an homely Hostelry,* 1.239 or Inne, in the very middest thereof, called The Spitle on Stane more, for to [ F] entertaine waifaring persons, and neere to it is a fragment of a Crosse, which wee call Rerecrosse, the Scots Reicrosse, as one would say, The Kings Crosse. Which Crosse, Hector Boetius the Scottish Writer recordeth to have beene erected as a meere stone confining England and Scotland; what time as King William the Conquerour

[ A] granted Cumberland unto the Scots on this condition, that they should hold it of him as his Tenants, and not attempt any thing prejudiciall or hurtfull to the Crowne of England. And a little lower, upon the Romanes high street, there stood a little Fort of the Romans built foure square,* 1.240 which at this day they call Maiden-Castle. From whence, as the borderers reported, the said High way went with many win∣dings in and out, as farre as to Caer Vorran in Northumberland.

There have beene divers Earles of Richmond according as the Princes favour en∣clined,* 1.241 and those out of divers families: whom I will notwithstanding set downe as exactly and truely as I can, in their right order. The first Earles were out of the house of little Britaine in France, whose descent is confusedly intricate amongst [ B] their owne Writers, for that there were two principall Earles at once, one of Haulte Britaine, and another of Base Britaine for many yeeres, and every one of their chil∣dren had their part in Gavell kinde, and were stiled Earles of Britaine without distin∣ction. But of these the first Earle of Richmond,* 1.242 according to our Writers and Re∣cords, was Alane sirnamed Feregaunt, that is, The Red, sonne of Hoel Earle of Bri∣taine, descended from Hawise great Aunt to William Conquerour, who gave this Country unto him by name of the lands of Earle Eadwin in Yorke-shire, and withall bestowed his daughter upon him by whom he had no issue.* 1.243 He built Richmond Castle, as is before specified, to defend himselfe from disinherited and outlawed English∣men in those parts: and dying left Britaine to his sonne Conan Le Grosse by a second [ C] wife. But Alane the Blacke sonne of Eudo sonne of Geffrey Earle of Britaine and Ha∣wise aforesaid, succeeded in Richmond, and he having no childe, lest it to Stephen his brother. This Stephen begat Alan sirnamed Le Savage his sonne and successour, who assisted king Stephen against Maude the Empresse in the battaile at Lincolne,* 1.244 and married Bertha one of the heires of Conan Le Grosse Earle of Hault Britaine by whom hee had Conan Le Petit Earle of both Britaines by hereditary right, as well as of Richmond. Hee by the assistance of King Henrie the Second of England dispos∣sessed Endo Vicount of Porhoet his Father in Lawe who usurped the Title of Bri∣taine in right of the said Bertha his Wife: and ended his life leaving onely one daughter Constance by Margaret sister to Malcolne king of the Scots. Geffrey third [ D] Sonne to King Henry the Second of England was advanced by his Father to the marriage of the said Constance, whereby hee was Earle of Britaine and Richmond; and begat of her Arthur who succeeded him, and as the French write was made a∣way by King Iohn his Unkle. True it is indeed, that for this cause, the French called King Iohn into question, as Duke of Normandy: And notwithstanding he was ab∣sent, and not heard once to plead, neither confessing ought, nor convicted, yet by a definitive sentence they condemned him, and awarded from him, Normandy and his hereditary possessions in France:* 1.245 Albeit himselfe had promised, under safe conduct to appeare in personally at Paris, there, to make answere as touching the death of Arthur: who as a Liege subject had bound himselfe by oath to bee true and loyall [ E] unto him, and yet started backe from his allegeance, raised a rebellion, and was ta∣ken prisoner in battaile. At which time this question was debated, whether the Peeres of France might give judgement of a King annointed, and therefore superi∣our? considering that a greater dignity drowneth the lesser; and now one and the same per∣son was both King of England and Duke of Normandy. But whither doe I digresse? Af∣ter Arthur, these succeeded orderly in the Earldome of Richmond. Guy Vicount of Thovars, unto whom the foresaid Constance was secondly married. Ranulph the third, Earle of Chester, the third husband of the said Constance. Peter of Dreux, descended from the bloud royall of France; who wedded Alice the onely daughter of Constance by her husband abovenamed Guy. Then upon dislike of the house of Britaine, Peter [ F] of Savoy, Unkle by the mothers side unto Eleonor the wife of king Henry the Third, was made Earle of Richmond, who for feare of the Nobles and Commons of Eng∣land that murmured against strangers preferred to honours in England, voluntarily surrendred up this Honour which was restored to Iohn Earle of Britaine, sonne to Peter of Dreux. After whom succeeded Iohn his sonne, the first Duke of Britaine,

who wedded Beatrice daughter to Henry the Third King of England. Whose sonne [ A] Arthur was Duke of Britaine,* 1.246 and as some write, Earle of Richmond. Certes, John of Britaine his younger brother, immediately after the fathers death, bare this ho∣nourable Title. And he added unto the ancient Armes of Drewx with the Canton of Britaine, the Lions of England in Bordeur. Hee was Guardian of Scotland under King Edward the Second, and there taken and detained prisoner for three yeeres space, and dyed at length without issue, in the Raigne of Edward the Third. And John Duke of Britaine, his nephew, the sonne of Arthur succeeded in this Earle∣dome. After his decease without children, when there was hote contention about the Dutchy of Britaine, betweene John Earle of Montfort of the halfe bloud, and Joane his brothers daughter and heire of the whole bloud marryed to Charles of [ B] Bloys: King Edward the Third affecting the said John Earle of Montfort, and to strengthen his owne party in France, favoured the Title of the said John Earle of Montfort for that he was a man and neerer in degree, and therefore seemed to have better right and to bee preferred before his Niece (to whom the Parliament of France had adjudged it) and which is more for that he sware fealty to him as King of France, for the Dutchy of Britaine. In these respects he granted the Earldome of Richmond unto the said Iohn untill he might recover his owne possessions in France, which being soone after recovered by aide of the English, the said King bestowed it upon Iohn of Gaunt his sonne. And he afterward surrendred it againe into the King his fathers hands for other possessions. Who forthwith created Iohn Earle of Mont∣fort [ C] Duke of Britaine sirnamed The valiant Earle of Richmond unto whom hee had given his daughter to wife, that thereby hee might more surely oblige unto him a warlique person, and then ill affected to the French. But in the fourth yeere of Ri∣chard the Second he by authority of the Parliament forfaited his Earldome because he adhered unto the French King against England: howbeit hee kept still the bare Title, and left it unto his posterity: But the possession was granted to Dame Ioane of Britaine his sister, and the widdow of Ralph Lord Basset of Draiton. After her de∣cease first Ralph Nevill Earle of Westmorland, had the Castle and Earldome of Rich∣mond for the tearme of his owne life, by the gift of King Henry the Fourth. And after him Iohn Duke of Bedford. Then king Henry the Sixth conferred the Title of [ D] Earle of Richmond upon Edmund of Hadham his halfe brother by the mothers side, with this speciall and peculiar prerogative, To take his place in Parliament next unto Dukes. After him succeeded Henry his sonne who was King of England by the name of Henry the Seventh. But during his exile George Duke of Clarence, and Richard Duke of Glocester received the Signiory of Richmond, but not the Title from their brother king Edward the Fourth. Last of all Henry the base sonne of king Henry the Eighth was by his father invested Duke of Richmond, who departed this life without issue 1535.* 1.247 As for Sir Thomas Grey who was made Baron of Richmount by king Henry the Sixth, was not Lord of this Richmond, but of a place in Bedford∣shire called Rugemound, and Richmount Greies. [ E]

There are contained in this Shire Parishes 104. beside Chappels.

[ A]

BISHOPRICK OF DVRHAM.

THe Bishopricke of Durham or Duresme, bordering on the North side upon Yorke-shire is shaped in fashion of a triangle, the utmost angle whereof is made up, toward the West, where the Northren limit and the Spring-head of Tees doe meete. One of the sides which lieth Southward is bounded in with the continued course of the river Tees running downe along [ B] by it: the other that looketh Northward, is limited first, with a short line, from the utmost point to the river Derwent, then, with Derwent it selfe, untill it hath taken unto it Chopwell a little river, and afterward with the river Tine. The Sea coast fashioneth out the Base of the Triangle which li∣eth Eastward, and the German Ocean with a mighty roaring, and forcible violence beareth thereupon.

On that part where it gathereth narrow to the Westerne angle, the fields are na∣ked and barren, the woods very thin, the hills bare without grasse, but not without mynes of iron. As for the Vallies, they are reasonably grassie, and that high hill which I termed the Apennine of England, cutteth in twain this angle. But on the East [ C] part or Base of the Triangle, as also on both sides, the ground being well manured, is very fruitful, and the increase yeeldeth good recompence for the husbandmans toile: it is also well garnished with meddowes, pastures, and corn-fields, beset everywhere with townes and yeelding plenty of Sea coale, which in many places we use for few∣ell. Some will have this coale to be an earthy black Bitumen, others, to be Gagates, and some againe the L••pis Thracius; all which that great Philosopher in Minerals, George Agricola, hath prooved to be one and the same thing. Surely this of ours, is nothing else but Bitumen, or a clammy kind of cley hardned with heat under the earth, and so throughly concocted: For, it yeeldeth the smell of Bitumen, and if water bee sprink∣led upon it, it burneth more vehemently and the cleerer: but, whether it may bee [ D] quenched with oile,* 1.248 I have not yet tried. And if the Stone called Obsidianus be in our country, I would take that to bee it, which is found in other places of England, and commonly called Canole cole: For it is hard, bright, light, and somewhat easie to be cloven piece meale into flakes, and being once kindled it burneth very quickly. But let us leave these matters to those that search more deeply into Natures closets.

All this country with other territories also thereto adjoyning the Monasticall wri∣ters tearme the Land,* 1.249 or Patrimonie of Saint Cuthbert. For, so they called whatsoever belonged to the Church of Durham, whereof S. Cuthbert was the Patron: who in the primitive state of the English Church, being Bishop of Lindefarn, led all his life in such holinesse and so sincerely, that he was enrolled among the English Saints. Our [ E] kings also, and Peeres of the Realme, because they verily perswaded themselves that he was their Tutelar Saint and Protectour against the Scots, went not onely in Pil∣grimage with devotion to visite his body (which, they beleeved to have continued still found and uncorrupt) but also gave very large possessions to this Church, and en∣dowed the same with many immunities. King Edgfride bestowed upon Cuthbert himselfe whiles he lived, great revenewes in the very City of Yorke, and Creake also whereof I spake, and the City Luguballia, as wee reade in the History of Durham. King Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane, whom hee made Lieutenant of Nor∣thumberland, gave afterwards all the Lands betweene the Rivers Were and Tine unto Cuthbert, and to those who ministred in his Church, to have and to hold for ever, as [ F] their rightfull Possession. (These bee the very words in effect of an ancient Booke) whence they might have sufficient maintenance to live upon, and not be pinched with pover∣ty: over and besides, they ordeined his Church to bee a safe Sanctuary for all fugitives: that whosoever for any cause fled unto his Corps, should have peaceable being for 37. daies, and the same liberty never for any occasion to bee infringed or denyed. Edward and Athelstan,

Kings; Knute also or Canutus the Dane, who came on his bare feete to Cuthberts [ A] Tombe, not onely confirmed but enlarged also these liberties. In like manner King William the Conquerour, since whose time it hath alwayes beene deemed a County Palatine: yea and some of the Bishops, as Counts Palatine have engraven in their seales a Knight or man at armes in compleat harnesse sitting upon an horse all trap∣ped, with one hand brandishing a sword, and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke.

The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights, so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection, fell into their hands and not into the Kings: yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their pri∣viledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland. For, they plea∣ded [ B] (the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee) That they were Haliwerke folkes, and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert; neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke, namely beyond Tine and Teese, for King or Bishop. But King Edward the First, was the first that abridged them of these liberties. For, when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec, and the Pri∣our who contended most egerly about certaine lands, and they would not stand to his award, Hee seised, as saith mine Authour, the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand, and there were many corners searched, many flawes found, and the Liberty in many points much impaired. Howbeit, the Church afterward recovered her rights, and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth, unto whom, upon the dis∣solution [ C] of the Bishopricke, the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof. But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act, and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe, which it en∣joyeth at this day. For, the Bishop, James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth, about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct, because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country: and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall, if the authority of Parliament had not in∣terposed and adjudged the same for that time, unto the Queene, because to her ex∣ceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the out∣rage [ D] of the Rebels. But leaving these matters, let us proceed forward to the de∣scripton of places.

The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country, is called by Latin writers Teisis,* 1.250 and Teesa, commonly Tees: by Polydore Virgill the Italian (whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy) without any reason, Athesis. In Ptolomee it see∣meth to be called, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers. For, considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine, where the Scots now inhabite; and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine; If I durst, as a Criticke, correct that ancient Geographer, I would recall them home [ E] againe hither into their owne places, though they have been long displaced, and that with the Scots good leave I hope, who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names. TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore, and carrying with him away in his chanell along, many brookes and beckes on each side, and running through rockes (out of which at Egleston, where there is a marble Quar∣roy, and where Conan Earle of Britaine, and Richmond founded a small Abbay) first beateth upon Bernard Castle, built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grand∣fathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots. But this John Balliol, whom King Ed∣ward the First had declared King of Scotland, lost the same with other his possessions, because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward. At which time [ F] the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham, tooke this Castle (as witnesseth the booke of Duresme) with the appertinences thereto from him, and con∣ferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke: as Herkes also and Hertnes, which hee gave unto Robert Clifford: Kewerston also, which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole, which

[ A] the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol, Robert Bruse, and Christopher Seton. But a few yeeres after, Lewis Beaumount the Bishop, a man royally descended, but alto∣gether unlettered, brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions, and obtained his suite, by vertue of judgement given in this tenour, The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke, as the King hath it without.* 1.251 Hard by it is Stretlham seene, where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes,* 1.252 Knights: who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country: and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes, unto whom, as I have read, Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted, that hee might give for his Armes, The* 1.253 Scutcheon of [ B] Britaine with three bent Bowes therein.

Not full five miles from hence, standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Stan∣drop, which also is called Stainthorpe, that is, Stony Village, a little Mercate Towne, where there was a Collegiat Church, founded by the Nevills, and was their Buri∣all-place. Neere unto it is Raby,* 1.254 whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave free∣ly unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it, and Stanthorpe, to be held for ever. Since which time, as mine Authour informeth mee, The Family of the Nevills, or De nova villa, held Raby of the Church, paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge.* 1.255 These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland, out of whose posterity, when Robert the sonne of Mal∣dred,* 1.256 [ C] Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman (whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour) their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles, and grew up into a most numerous honourable, and mighty house: who erected heere a great and spacious Castle, which was the first and principall seate. These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees, neere unto Selaby, where now is the habi∣tation of the Brakenburies,* 1.257 a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity, as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff.

[ D] Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne, the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers,* 1.258 out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Horn∣by (whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill, and of William Nevill Earle of Kent, and Lord of Fau∣conberg, is descended from them in the memory of our fathers, to the Atherstons and the Darcies) holdeth his course neere unto Derlington,* 1.259 a Mercate Towne of good resort, which Seir, an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph, having obtained leave of King Etheldred gave unto the Church of Durham: and Hugh Pudsey adorned it with a faire Church and other edifices.

In this Towne field are three pittes of a wonderfull depth, the common people [ E] tearme them Hell-Kettles,* 1.260 because the water in them by the Antiperistasis or rever∣beration of the cold aire striking thereupon, waxeth hote. The wiser sort and men of better judgement doe thinke, they came by the sinking downe of the ground swallowed up in some earth-quake,* 1.261 and that by a good probable reason. For, thus we reade in the Chronicles of Tinmouth. In the yeere of our Lord 1179. on Christmas day, at Oxenhall in the Territory of Derlington, within the Bishopricke of Durham, the ground heaved it selfe up aloft like unto an high Towre, and so continued all that day as it were unmoveable, untill the evening: and then, fell with so horrible a noise, that it made all the neighbour dwellers afraide: and the earth swallowed it up and made in the same place a deepe pit, which is there to bee seene for a testimony, unto this day. That these Pittes have [ F] passages under the ground Bishop Cuthbert Tonstall first observed, by finding that Goose in the River Tees, which he for the better triall and experience of these Pits, had marked and let downe into them.

Beyond Derlington,* 1.262 Tees hath no Townes of any great account standing upon it,

but gliding along the skirtes of greene fields,* 1.263 and by country Villages, winding in [ A] and out as he passeth; at length dischargeth himselfe at a large mouth into the Oce∣an, whence the base or bothom of the Triangle aforesaid towards the Sea be∣ginneth.

From hence the shore coasteth Northward, holding on entire still, save that it is interrupted with one or two little Brookes and no more,* 1.264 neere unto Gretham; where Robert Bishop of Durham having the Manour given freely unto him by Sir Peter de Montfort, founded a goodly Hospitall. Next unto it is Claxton, which gave name unto a Family of good and ancient note, in this Tract: whereof, I have beene the more willing to make mention, because of the same house was T. Claxton, an affectionate lover of venerable Antiquity. From thence, the shore shooteth forth [ B] into the Sea with one onely Promontory scarce seven miles above Tees mouth, on which standeth very commodiously Hartlepoole,* 1.265 a good Towne of trade, and a safe harbour for shipping. Bede seemeth to call it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which Henry of Huntingdon, interpreteth The Harts or Stagges Island, where hee writeth, that Heiu a religious wo∣man founded a Monastery in times past. If Heorteu bee not rather the name of that little Territory, which the Booke of D••resme seemeth to implie and in another place calleth Heortnesse,* 1.266 because it lyeth out somewhat farre into the Sea. From this for fifteene miles together the shore being in no place broken off, but heere and there embroidered as it were and garnished with Townes, smileth pleasantly upon those that saile that way, untill it openeth it selfe to make roome for the River VE∣DRA; [ C] for,* 1.267 so Ptolomee calleth that, which Bede nameth Wirus, the Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; and we Were. This river first groweth into one out of three riverets Burden-hop, Wel-hop, and Kel-hop, in the utmost part of this Country Westward: which when they are joyned in one chanell is called by one name Were, and speedeth into the East, by vast moores and heathes,* 1.268 by great Parkes of the Bishops, and by Witton a little Castle or pile belonging to the Lords Evers,* 1.269 who are Noblemen in this Country of great an∣tiquity, as descended from the Lords of Clavering and Warkworth, as also from the Vescyes and the Attons, by Daughters: renowned for their martiall prowesse, which Scotland may well witnesse. For, King Edward the First, gave unto them for their valiant service Kettnes a little Towne in Scotland, and King Henry the [ D] Eighth within our fathers remembrance honoured them in that respect with the Title of Barons.

Then Were after a few miles taketh into him from the South Gaunlesse a Riveret; where, at the very meeting of them both together, there standeth upon an high hill Aukland so called of Okes (like as Sarron in Greece) which sheweth an house of the Bishops stately built with Turrets by Antony Bec,* 1.270 and withall a beautifull Bridge, made by Walter Skirlaw a Bishop of Durham about the yeere 1400. who also en∣larged this house and built the Bridge over Tees at Yare. From hence Were turneth his course Northward, that he might water this shire the longer, and then forthwith looketh up to the remaines of an ancient City not now a dying, but dead many [ E] yeeres agoe, standing on the brow of an hill: which Antonine the Emperour called VINOVIUM,* 1.271 Ptolomee BINOVIUM, in whom it is so thrust out of his owne place, and set as it were in another Climate, that it would for ever have lien hid, had not Antonine pointed at it with his finger.* 1.272 Wee call it at this day Binchester, and it hath in it a very few houses: yet it is very well knowne to them that dwell thereabout, both by reason of the heapes of rubbish, and the reliques of walles yet to be seene, as also for peeces of Romane Coine often digged up there, which they call Bin∣chester Penies, yea and for the Inscriptions of the Romanes, amongst which I happe∣ned of late when I was there upon an Altar with this Inscription.

[ F]

[ A] DE AB.* 1.273 MATRIB. Q. LO—CL. QUIN TIANUS—COS V. S. L. M.* 1.274

Another stone also was heere lately gotten out of the ground, but defaced with [ B] voide places, where the letters were worne out: which notwithstanding, if one beheld it wishly, seemeth to shew this Inscription.

— — TRIB. COHOR. I. CARTOV— MARTI VICTORI GENIO LOCI. [ C] ET BONO EVENTUI.

Neither have I read any thing else of it, but that an old booke maketh mention, how the Earles of Northumberland, long since plucked away this with other Villa∣ges from the Church, what time as that accursed and unsatiable hunger after Gold swallowed up also the sacred patrimony of the Church.

On the other banke of Were,* 1.275 among the mounting Hilles appeareth Branspeth Castle, which the Bulmers built, and the daughter of Sir Bertram Bulmer coupled [ D] in marriage unto Geffrey Nevill, adjoyned with other great Possessions unto the Family of the Nevills. Within a while after Were runneth downe much trou∣bled and hindered in his Course with many great Stones apparent above the wa∣ter, which unlesse the River doe rise and swell with great store of raine, are ne∣ver over covered: and upon which (a thing that happeneth not elsewhere) if yee powre water, and temper it a little with them, it sucketh in a saltish quality. Nay, that which more is, at Butterby a little Village, when the River in Summer time is very ebbe and shallow,* 1.276 there issueth out of those stones a certaine salt reddish wa∣ter, which by the heat of the Sunne waxeth so white, and withall groweth to a thicke substance, that the people dwelling thereby gather from hence salt sufficient∣ly [ E] for their use.

And now the River, as though it purposed to make an Island, compasseth almost on every side the chiefe City of this Province standing on an hill, whence the Saxons gave it the name Dunholm. For, as you may gather out of Bede, they called an hill Dun, and a river Island Holme.* 1.277 Heereof, the Latine Writers have made DUNEL∣MUM, the Normans Duresme, but the common people most corruptly name it Durham. It is seated on high, and passing strongly withall, yet taketh it up no great circuit of ground; shaped in forme, as one would say, of an egge, environed on eve∣ry side save on the North with the River, and fortified with a wall. Toward the South side almost, whereas the River fetcheth it selfe about, standeth the Cathe∣drall [ F] Church aloft, making a solemne and a sightly shew with an high Towre in the middest and two Spires at the West end.

In the middest there is a Castle placed, as it were betweene two stone bridges o∣ver the river, the one Eastward, the other Westward. From the Castle Northward is seene a spacious Mercate-place and Saint Nicholas Church: from whence there

runneth out a great length North-East a Suburbe compassed on two sides the Ri∣ver: [ A] like as others on both sides beyond the River, which leade unto the Bridges, and euery of them have their severall Churches. The originall of this City is of no great Antiquity. For, when the distressed Monkes of Lindisfarn driven hither, and thither by the Danes Warres, wandered up and downe without any certaine place of abode with the corps of Saint Cuthbert, at length heere they setled them∣selves by divine direction, about the yeere of our Salvation 995. But heare the whole matter out of mine Authour of Durham. All the people accompanying the corps of that most holy Father Cuthbert came into Dunholme, a place verily strong of it selfe by nature, but not easily to bee inhabited, as being wholly beset on every side with a most thicke Wood: onely in the middest was a little Plaine, which was wont to bee tilled and sowed [ B] with Corne: where Bishop Aldwin built afterwards a faire Church of stone. The foresaid Prelate therefore, through the helpe of all the people and the assistance of Uthred Earle of Northumberland, stocked up all the Wood and in short time made the whole place habita∣ble. To conclude, the people generally from the River Coqued as farre as to Tees, came right willingly, as well to this worke, as after that to build a Church: and untill it was fini∣shed ceased not to follow that businesse devoutly. Wherefore after the Wood was quite grub'd up, and every one had their mansion places assigned out by lot; The said Bishop in a fervent love to Christ and Saint Cuthbert, upon an honest and godly intent beganne (no small peece of worke) to build a Church, and endeavoured by all meanes to finish the same. Thus farre mine Authour. [ C]

Not many yeeres after, those Englishmen who could not endure the insolent command of the Normans, presuming upon the naturall strength of the place, chose it for their chiefe Hold and seat of resistance, yea and from thence troubled the Conquerour not a little. For, William Gemeticensis writeth thus. They went into a part of the Country which for waters and woods was inaccessible, raising a Castle with a most strong trench and rampier, which they called Dunholme: out of which making many rodes sundry waies, for a certaine space they kept themselves close there, waiting for the comming of Swene King of the Danes. But when that fell not out according to their expectation, they provided for themselves by flight: and King William comming to Durham, granted many priviledges for establishing the liberty of the Church, and built the [ D] Castle whereof I spake, on the highest part of the hill, which afterwards became the Bishops house: and the keies thereof when the Bishopricke was voide, were wont by an ancient custome to be hanged upon Saint Cuthberts shrine.

When this Castle was once built, William of Malmesbury who lived about that time, describeth this City in these words. Durham is a prety hill rising by little and little from one plaine of the Valley with a gentle ascent, untill it come to bee a mount: and al∣though by reason of the rough and steepe situation of the Rockes, there is no way for the ene∣my to enter it; yet they of these daies have erected a Castle upon the hill. At the very foote and bottom of the Castle, runneth a River, wherein is great store of fish, but of Salmons espe∣cially. At the same time well neere (as that ancient Booke reporteth) William de [ E] Careleph the Bishop, who gathered againe the dispersed Monkes hither (for, the Danes in every place had overthrowne their Cloistures) pulled downe that Church which Aldwin had formerly built, and beganne the foundation of another of a fairer worke, which his successour Ralph finished. And after that, Nicholas Feruham Bi∣shop, and Thomas Mescomb Prior, adjoyned a new Fabrique or frame unto it, in the yeere of Christ 1242. And a good while after, W. Skirlaw the Bishop, built at the West end of the Church a faire peece of worke which they call Galli∣lee,* 1.278 whereinto hee translated the marble Tombe of Venerable Bede. In which place Hugh Pudsey, beganne in times past an house, wherein (I use the words of an ancient Booke) women might lawfully enter,* 1.279 that whereas they had not corporall accesse unto the [ F] more secret holy places; yet they might have some comfort by the beholding of the holy mysteries.

But, that Ralph the Bishop aforesaid, as our Historian writeth, reduced the place ••etweene the Church and the Castle, which had beene taken up with many dwelling houses,

[ A] into a plaine and open ground; for feare least either any annoyance by filth, or dangers by fire, might come neere unto the Church. And all be it the City was strong enough by the na∣turall site, yet hee made it more strong, and stately with a Wall, reaching in length from the Chauncell of the Church, unto the Keepe and Towre of the Castle: Which wall now by little and little giveth place unto time, and never that I could heare, suffered any assault of enemy.

For, when David Brus, King of Scots, had forraied the Country with fire and sword,* 1.280 as farre as to Beanparke or Beereparke, which is a Parke neere unto the City, whiles King Edward the Third besieged Calais, Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of Yorke, with their Companies of men mustered up in haste, encoun∣tered [ B] the Scots, and so couragiously charged them, that having taken the King pri∣soner they slew the most of the first and second battaile; and put the third to a fearefull flight: neither staied they at most steepe and cumbersome places, un∣till they recovered their owne Holds. This is that famous Battaile, which our people call The Battaile at Nevils Crosse.* 1.281 For, the chiefest of the Scottish Nobility being slaine, and the King taken prisoner at this field, they were enforced to yeeld much ground within their Confines, yea and to render many Castles. But this may suf∣fice as touching Durham: which I will take my leave of, if you thinke good, with a Distichon of Necham, and an Hexastichon of John Jonston.

[ C] Arte, sitúque loci munita Dunelmia salve, Qua floret sancta religionis apex. VEDRA ruens rapidis modò cursibus, agmine leni, Séque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros, Quos dedit ipsa olim, quorum & tegit ossa sepulta; Magnus ubi sacro marmore BEDA cubat. Se jactant aliae vel religione, vel armis; Haec armis cluit, haec religione potens.

[ D] Durham by art and site of place well fensed now farewell, Where for devout Religion the Mitre doth excell. The River Were that ranne most swift ere while, with streame now soft And chanell lesse, to famous men in towne lookes up aloft; Whom once it bred: and of whose bones in grave it is possest: Where under sacred marble stone, Great Beda now doth rest. Of Armes or of Religion, may other boast, I grant: For Armes and for Religion both, this City makes her vaunt.

[ E] Concerning the Monkes that were cast out at the suppression of the Abbaies, the twelve Prebendaries and two Arch-Deacons placed in this Church, and the Pri∣ours name changed into the Dignity of a Deane, I neede not to say any thing: for, they are yet in fresh memory. And unwilling I am to remember how this Bi∣shopricke was dissolved by a private Statute, and all the possessions thereof given to Edward the Sixth, when private greedinesse edged by Church-men did grinde the Church, and withdrew much from God, wherewith Christian Piety had for∣merly honoured God. But Queene Mary repealed that Statute and restored the said Bishopricke with all the Possessions, and Franchises thereof, that God might enjoy his owne. The Longitude of this City is 22. Degrees. The Latitude 54. [ F] Degrees and 57. minutes.

Beneath Durham, that I many not overpasse it,* 1.282 standeth Eastward a very faire Hospitall, which Hugh Pudsey that most wealthy Bishop, and Earle of Northum∣berland, so long as it was, Being very indulgently compassionate to Lepres (as Neu∣brigensis writeth) built with coste (I must needes say profuse enough) but in some sort not

so honest: as who layed no small deall of other mens right (so great was his power) upon [ A] this devotion, whiles hee thought much to disburse sufficient of his owne. Howbeit hee assigned unto it revenewes to maintaine threescore and five Lepres, besides Masse Priests.

From Durham Were carrieth his streame Northward with a more direct course, by Finchdale;* 1.283 where, in the Reigne of King Henry the Second Goodrick a man of the ancient Christian simplicity, and austerity wholly devoted to the service of God, led a solitary life and ended his daies: being buried in the same place, wherein, as that William of Neuborrow saith, hee was wont either to lye prostrate whiles he prayed, or to lay him downe when he was sicke. Who with this his devout simplicity, drew men into so great an admiration of him, that R. brother unto that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey [ B] built a Chappell in memoriall of him.

* 1.284From thence Were passeth by Lumley Castle standing within a Parke, the ancient seat of the Lumleies, who descended from Liulph, a man in this tract of right great Nobility in the time of King Edward the Confessour, who marryed Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earle of Northumberland. Of these Lumleies, Marmaduke as∣sumed unto him his mothers Coate of Armes (in whose right hee was seized of a goodly inheritance of the Thwengs) namely, Argent of Fesse Gueles betweene three Poppinjaes Vert, whereas the Lumleies before time had borne for their Armes, Six Pop∣pinjaes Argent, in Gueles. For she was the eldest daughter of Sir Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton, and one of the heires of Thomas Thweng her brother. But Ralph [ C] sonne to the said Marmaduke was the first Baron Lumley, created by King Richard the Second: which honour John the ninth from him enjoyed in our daies a man most honourable for all the ornaments of true Nobility.

Just over against this place, not farre from the other banke of the River standeth Chester upon the Street,* 1.285 as one would say, the Castle or little City by the Port way side: the Saxons called it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: whereupon, I would deeme it to be CONDERCUM, in which as the booke of Notices recordeth, the first wing of the Astures, in the Ro∣manes time kept station and lay in Garison, within the Line or precinct (as that booke saith) of the WALL. For it is but a few miles distant from that famous WALL, whereof I am to speake heereafter. The Bishops of Lindifarre lived ob∣scurely [ D] heere with the corps of Saint Cuthbert, whiles the raging stormes of the Danes were up, for the space of an hundred and thirteene yeeres. In memory whereof, when Egelricke Bishop of Durham layed the foundation of a new Church in that place, he found such a mighty masse of money buried within the ground, as is thought by the Romans, that wallowing now in wealth, he gave over his Bishopricke: and being returned to Peterborrow whereof hee had beene Abbot before, made cau∣seies through the Fennes and raised other Workes, not without exceeding great charges.

And a long time after Anthony Bec, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem erected heere a Collegiat Church, a Deane, and seven Prebends. In which Church, [ E] the Lord Lumley abovesaid placed and ranged in goodly order the Monuments of his Ancestours in a continued line of succession even from Liulph unto these our daies; which he had either gotten together out of Monasteries that were subverted, or caused to bee made a new. And further within, almost in the middest of the Tri∣angle, there is another little Village also knowne of late by reason of the College of a Deane and Prebendaries founded by that Antony Bec at Lanchester, which I once thought to have beene LONGOVICUM a station of the Romanes.

But let us returne unto Were, which now at length turneth his course Eastward, and running beside Hilton a Castle of the Hiltons,* 1.286 a Family of ancient Gentry; venteth his waters with a vast mouth into the sea at Wiran-muth, as Bede tearmeth it, [ F] now named Monkes Were-mouth, because it belonged to the Monkes. Touching which mouth or out-let, thus writeth William of Malmesbury. This Were where hee entereth into the Sea, entertaineth Shippes brought in with a faire Gale of Winde, within the gentle and quiet bosome of his Out-let. Both the Bankes whereof, Benedict

[ A] Bishop beautified with Churches and built Abbaies there, one in the name of Saint Peter and the other of Saint Paul. The painfull industry of this man hee will wonder at, who shall reade his life; for that hee brought hither great store of bookes, and was the first man that ever procured Masons and Glasiers for windowes to come into England.* 1.287

Five miles higher, the River Tine doth also unlade it selfe, which together with Derwent for a good way lineth out (as it were) the North side of this Country. Up∣on Derwent which hath his spring head neere unto the top of the Triangle, there standeth nothing of note,* 1.288 unlesse it bee a little Village which now they call Ebche∣ster, of Ebba a virgin of the bloud royall of the Northumbers, of whom there went so great a name and opinion for her sanctimony and devotion about the yeere 630. [ B] that being canonized among the Saints, she hath many Churches in this Island de∣dicated unto her,* 1.289 which the common sort usually call Saint Tabbs for Saint Ebbes.

But by Tine there is situate a memorable Towne called Gateshead in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and by Latin Historians, Caprae Caput, which is the same, as one would say, Goates head: and is as it were the Suburbs of Newcastle, standing on the hether side of Tine, whereunto also it was annexed by King Edward the Sixth, when the Bishopricke was dissolved. But Queene Mary soone after restored it a∣gaine unto the Church. The common people thinke it is farre more ancient than Newcastle it selfe. And if I also should say, that this and Newcastle together (for one Towne it may seeme in old time to have beene, divided onely by the River) [ C] was that Frontier Station, which under the later Emperours they called GABRO∣SENTUM, and was kept by the second Band of the Thracians, and that it retai∣ned still the ancient name in sense and signification, whereas, New-castle hath got∣ten once or twice a new name, I hope my opinion would be nothing dissonant from the truth: For, Gaffr in the British tongue signifieth a Goat, and Hen in ordinary speech is used for Pen, which betokeneth an Head: and in the very same signification our old Historiographers tearme it in Latine Caprae Caput, like as Brundusium, in the Messapians Language tooke that name, from a Stagges head. I would thinke that this name was given unto this place, by occasion of some Inne that had a Goats head for the signe: even as Gallus Gallinaccus, that is, The Housecocke, Tres Sorores, that is, Three [ D] sisters, and Pirum, that is, The Peare, Places in Africke, Spaine, and Italie, whereof An∣tonine maketh mention: which, of such signes (as some learned men suppose) tooke their names. And our Historians all with one accord, name this Towne Caprae Caput, when they record, that Walcher Bishop of Durham, whom King William the First had made Governour over Northumberland with the authority of an Earle, was slaine in this place by the furious multitude, for misgoverning the Country.

Beneath this Towne,* 1.290 almost at the very mouth of Tine, is to be seene Girwy, now Iarrow, the native soile of venerable Bede, where also in ancient times flourished a little Monastery: The Founder whereof and the time of the foundation, this in∣scription sheweth, which is yet extant in the Church wall.

[ E]

DEDICATIO BASILICAE S. PAULI VIII. KL. MA II. ANNO XVI. ECFRIDI REG. CEOLFRIDI ABB. EIUSDEMQ. ECCLES. DEO AUCTORE, CONDITORIS ANNO IIII.

[ F] These greater Churches when the Saving light of Christ shone upon the world (let it not seeme impertinent to note so much by occasion of the word Basilica) were termed BASILICAE,* 1.291 for that the Basilicae of the Gentiles which were large and spa∣tious Hauls, wherein Magistrates sat in judgement and ministred Justice, were con∣verted into Christian Churches. Whence Ausonius wrote thus, Basilica olim nego∣tijs

plena, &c. The Basilica [or Haull of Justice] in times past full of businesses, is now as [ A] full of Praiers and vowes: or else because they were built in forme somewhat long, in manner of those Basilicae.

* 1.292Heere our Bede, the singular glory and ornament of England, who for his Piety and learning got the sirname of VENERABILIS, bestowed all diligence, as him∣selfe saith, in meditation of the Scriptures, and amid the most boisterous billowes and surging waves of Barbarisme wrote many most learned Volumes. When hee was once dead, there was buried with him, as William of Malmesbury saith, all the knowledge, well neere of Acts and Monuments, untill our time. For, when there succeeded ever one more lazie than another, the heat of good studies was abated, and cooled through the whole Land. And the Danes for their part, plagued this holy place in such wise, that short∣ly [ B] after the Conquest, when some in these Countries went in hand to reestablish the Monkes againe, and Walcher the Bishop assigned this place for them: Onely walles, as saith mine Authour, were standing without any roofe, and it scarcely retained any signe of the ancient dignity: howbeit for all that, they framing a roofe over head of rough hewen wood such as they could get, and thatching it with straw, beganne to celebrate Divine Ser∣vice therein.

* 1.293I neede not to make a Catalogue of the Bishops of Durham who are reputed Count-Palatines. Let it suffice to intimate thus much, that since the first time, a See was heere erected, in the yeere of our Redemption 995. there have sitten in it 35. Bishops unto our daies. Of which these were most eminent: Hugh Pudsey nobly [ C] descended, and allyed to King Stephen: who for a thousand and thirteene pounds pre∣sently disbursed, purchased of King Richard the First, the Country of Northumber∣land for his life;* 1.294 and Sathbrege, to his successours for ever, and built that goodly Ho∣spitall whereof I spake: betweene whom and the Archbishop there arose a most bitter controversie, Whiles (as he writeth of them) hic praesse, ille non subesse, & neuter prodesse contenderet, that is, One would bee superiour, the other would not bee inferiour, and neither of them would doe any good. Antony Bec, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who spent infinite summes of money, upon vast buildings, and glorious furniture. Thomas Wolsey Cardinall, who in his high prosperity wanted nothing but moderation (but his History is sufficiently knowne.) And Cuthbert Tunstall, who dyed in our time, [ D] for singular knowledge in the best Sciences, sincere holinesse of life, and great wis∣dome approved in domesticall, and forraigne imployments, was (without offence bee it spoken) equivalent to them all, and a singular Ornament to his native Coun∣trie.

In this Province and in Northumberland beside very many Chappels, are counted Parish Churches 118.

[illustration]

LANCASTRIAE Comitalus palatinus olim pars BRIGANTUM

[illustration]

[ A]

LANCA-SHIRE.

I Must now turne the course of my journey another way, unto the rest of the BRIGANTES, who were planted on the farther side of the Hilles toward the Irish Sea: and first un∣to LANCA-SHIRE, which I goe unto (God speede mee well) after a sort somewhat against my will: For I feare me that I shall not satisfie my selfe, and much lesse the Reader. [ B] For very few things fell out to my desire, when I travailed over the greatest part thereof, the old names in every place have beene so worne out by the continuall assault of Time. But least I might bee thought to neglect the hearty good Lanca-shire men, I will proceed, in hope that Gods assistance, which hitherto hath beene favourable unto me, will not now faile me.

Under those mountaines, which (as I have often said heeretofore) shoote along through the middle of England, and interpose themselves as umpires and Bounders betweene divers shires, Lanca-shire lyeth toward the West, in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, commonly termed Lonka-shire, Lanca-shire, and The County Palatine of Lancaster, because it is notably knowne by the title of a County Palatine. It [ C] is so enclosed betweene Yorke-shire on the East side, and the Irish sea on the West, that on the South side where it boundeth upon Cheshire it is broader, and by little and lit∣tle the more Northward it goeth, where it confineth upon Westmorland, the narrower it groweth. And there, by an Arme of the sea insinuating it selfe, is interrupted, and hath a good part of it which butteth upon Cumberland, beyond the said Arme.

Where the ground is plaine and champion, it yeeldeth good store of Barly and Wheat: that which lieth at the botom of the hilles, is better for Otes: The soile e∣very where is meetely good and tolerable, unlesse it be in certaine moist places and unwholsome called Mosses,* 1.295 which notwithstanding make amends for these their discommodities, with more plentifull commodities. For, if their upper coate bee [ D] pared away, they yeeld certaine unctuous or fattish * 1.296 Turffes for fewell, and some times under-ground trees, or which have lien a long time buried there. Underneath also in divers places they affourd abundance of marle, which serveth in stead of mucke to enrich their grounds. Whereby, the soile that in mans opinion was held most unapt to beare Corne, beginneth now to be so kinde and arable, that it may be justly thought, mens idlenesse in times past was greater than any naturall barrainesse of the soile. But a man may judge of the goodnesse of the soile, partly by the consti∣tution and complexion of the Inhabitants, who are to see to, passing faire and beau∣tifull, and in part, if you please, by the Cattaile. For,* 1.297 in their Kine and Oxen which have goodly heads and faire spread hornes, and are in body well proportionate with∣all, [ E] you shall finde in manner no one point wanting, that Mago the Carthaginian doth require, as Columella specifieth out of him.

On the South part, it is separated from Cheshire with the River Mersey which springing forth of the midland hilles, having passed a little from his head, becom∣meth a bound to distinguish the Shires, and with a slow current runneth Westward, calling as it were, other rivers (to use the words of the Poet) into his skie coloured and azure lappe, and forthwith gladly biddeth welcome unto Irwell from the North, which river bringeth along with him all the rivers of this Easterne part. Among these, Roch is of greatest name,* 1.298 which hath standing upon it in the Vale, Rochdale a Mer∣cate [ F] Towne well frequented; like as Irwell it selfe hath situate upon it Bury a Mercate Towne nothing inferiour to the other: and hard by, whiles I carefully sought for COCCIUM,* 1.299 mentioned by Antonine the Emperour, I saw Cockley, a Chapell built of timber, beset round about with trees: Also Turton Chapell among very steepe downfalls, and overgrowne unpleasant places: Turton Towre, and Entweissoll a pro∣per

faire house: which had in times past Gentlemen of that name, as Turton is the [ A] seate at this day of the right ancient family of Orell. But, where Irke and Irwell meet together, on the left hand banke raised of a reddish kinde of stone, scarce three miles from Mersey, flourished that Towne of right great antiquity which we now call Man∣chester, and Antonine the Emperour called MANCUNIUM,* 1.300 and MANUCIUM, according to the variety of the Copies. This retaining the first part of his ancient name, farre excelleth the Townes lying round about it, for the beautifull shew it car∣rieth, for resort unto it, and for clothing: in regard also of the Mercate-place, the faire Church, and College, founded by Thomas Lord De-la-ware, a Priest (the last heire male of his Family) and summoned to the Parliament among the Lords Temporall by the name of Magister Thomas de-la-ware. For he descended from the [ B] Greleies, who were the ancient Lords of this Towne, and by Ioane sister of the said Sir Thomas, it came to Wests now Lords De-la-ware. But, in the foregoing age, this Towne was of farre greater account, both for certaine wollen clothes there wrought and in great request commonly called Manchester Cottons, and also for the liberty of a Sanctuary, which under King Henry the Eighth, was by Parliamentary authority, translated to Chester. In a Parke of the Earle of Derbies neere adjoyning, called Alparke, where the Brooke Medlocke entreth into Irwell, I saw the plot and ground∣worke of an ancient Fortresse built foure square, commonly called Mancastle: which I will not in any wise say, was that ancient MANCUNIUM, it is contained in so narrow a peece of ground, but rather the Fort of Mancunium, and station of [ C] the Romanes where they kept watch and ward: at which I saw this ancient In∣scription in a long stone to the memory of Candidus a Centurion.

* 1.301•• CANDIDI FIDES XX. IIII.

[ D]

As for this other; Iohn Dee that most famous Mathematician, and Warden of Manchester College, who had a sight of the same heere, copied it out for me.

COHO. I. FRISIN •• MASA VONIS [ E] P. XXIII.

Both which may seeme erected in honour of those Centurious, for their loyalty and honesty so many yeeres approoved.

In the yeere of our Salvation 920. King Edward the Elder, as Marianus writeth, sent an Army of Mercians into Northumberland, To reedifie the City of Manchester, and to place a Garison there (for it belonged formerly unto the Kings of Northum∣berland) and seemeth to have beene quite destroyed in the Danish warre: against [ F] whom, because the inhabitants had borne themselves as valiant men, they will have their towne to be called Manchester, that is, as they expound it, The City of Men, and in this conceit which implieth their owne commendation, they wonderfully please

[ A] and flatter themselves. But full little know the good honest men, that MANCU∣NIUM was the name of it in the Britans time, so that the Etymologie thereof, out of our English tongue, can by no meanes seeme probable. I for my part therefore would derive it rather from Main a British word which signifieth a Stone: For, upon a stony hill it is seated, and beneath the very Towne, at Colyhurst, there are ve∣ry good and famous quarries of stone.

But, to returne againe. Mersey now by this time carrying a fuller streame by rea∣son of Irwell consociating with him, holdeth on in his journey toward the Ocean, by Trafford,* 1.302 from whence the Traffords a Family of great good note tooke their name as they had their habitation: also by Chatmosse, a low mossie ground, lying a great [ B] way in length and bredth: a good part whereof, the Brookes swelling high within our fathers remembrance carried quite away with them not without much danger: Whereby, the Rivers were corrupted, and a number of fresh fish perished. In which place now lyeth a Vale somewhat low, watered with a little Brooke, and trees have beene discovered lying along. So that it may be thought, when the ground lay neg∣lected, and the chanels were not skoured in those open and flat Valleies for riverets and Brookes to passe away, but the water-lades stopped up either through negli∣gence, or depopulation: that then all the grounds that lay lower than others, be∣came such boggy plots,* 1.303 as we call Mosses, or else standing Meeres. Which if it bee true, wee neede not mervaile that so many trees in the like places every where [ C] throughout England (but in this shire especially) lie overwhelmed, and as it were, bu∣ried. For, when their rootes were loosened through over much moisture, the trees could not chuse but fall, and in such soft ground sinke and bee quite swallowed up. They that dwell thereabouts, assay and try with poles and spits, where they lie hid∣den, and when they light upon them marke the place, digge them out, and use them for fire wood: For they burne cleere and give light, as well as torch wood, which haply is by reason of a bituminous and clammy fat earth wherein they lye: whence the common sort take them for Firres:* 1.304 which notwithstanding Caesar denieth to have growne in Britaine. I know it is an opinion currant with the most, that these trees overturned with the force of waters, have lien ever since Noahs Floud, when [ D] the World was drowned, and so much the rather, because they are elsewhere dig∣ged out of very high places: and yet they deny not, but those high grounds are very marish and waterish.

Such mighty trees also are found oftentimes in Holland, a Country of Germany: which the learned men there, suppose were either undermined by waves working into the shore, or by windes driven forward and brought unto those lower and moist places; where they setled and sunke downe. But let the curious company of Philo∣sophers search into these matters to whom I commend them, and to their further inquirie, whether there are not Subterranean trees growing under earth, as well as plants and other Creatures. After Chatmosse, Holcroft sheweth it selfe, which, as it af∣forded [ E] the seat,* 1.305 so it gave the name also, to that right ancient family of the Holcrofts: whose estate in old time was much amended by marriage with one of the heires of Culchit a place seated hard by, which Gilbert de Culchit held, Of the Fee of Almaricke Butler, as hee himselfe did of the Earle of Ferrars, in King Henry the Third his time. Whose eldest daughter and heire, when Richard Fitz-Hugh of Hindley had married, he assumed to himselfe the name of Culchith: like as his brother Thomas, who wedded the second daughter, was of the possession, called Holcroft: another also by the same reason was named de Peasfalong, and a fourth de Riseley. Which I note, that the Reader may understand, how our Ancestours, as they were in other [ F] things constant and grave, so in leaving and taking up names out of their possessions, they were as vaine and variable as might bee. But even in other parts of England also, this was in old time a thing in usuall practise.

Heere lie there round about every way little Townes, which (as throughout this whole County, and Cheshire, and other Northren parts) as they imparted their names to worshipfull houses, so they to have their Lords even unto these daies, men

of the very same name with them. As for example, Aston of Aston: Atherton of [ A] Atherton, Tillesley of Tillesley, Standish of Standish, Bold of Bold, Hesket of Hesket, Wor∣thington of Worthington, Torbec of Torbec, &c. And an endlesse peece of worke it were to name them one by one, neither is it any part of my purpose to reckon up all fami∣lies of name and worship, but to take a view and survey of the more ancient places. And as vertue and wealth laied the foundations of these and such like Families in these North Countries, and elsewhere (that I may speake it once for all) and provi∣dent moderation with simplicity standing contented with their owne estate, both preserved and encreased them: So, in the South part of England, riotous ex∣pense and superfluity, usurious contracts, voluptuous and vicious life, together with indirect courses and crafty dealings; have in short space utterly overthrowne most [ B] flourishing houses, in so much as men complaine, that the offspring of the ancient Gentry hath now a long time faded: But Families as plants have their times of en∣creasing and decreasing, I and overpassing this, will follow on with the course of Mersey, which now by this time runneth downe by Warrington, a Towne knowne by reason of the Lords thereof sirnamed * 1.306 Butlers, who obtained of King Edward the First the liberty of a Mercate for it:* 1.307 From which, Northward, Winwicke is not farre distant: a place among other fat Benefices of England of greatest name: in the upmost part of the Church whereof, are read these rude Verses engraven in an old Character, concerning King Oswald.

Hic locus Oswalde quondam placuit tibi valde. [ C] Northanhumbrorum fuer as Rex, nunc{que} Polorum Regna tenes, loco passus Marcelde vocato. This place sometime thee pleased well, Oswald, King thou hadst beene once of Northumberland, Thou sufferedst in a place Marcelde call'd, Thy Kingdome now is heaven, that aye doth stand.

From Warrington, the River M••rsey spreading abroad, and straightwaies drawing in himselfe againe, with a wide and open outlet, very commodious for merchan∣dise [ D] entreth into the Irish Sea, where Litherpoole, called in the elder ages 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, commonly Lirpoole is seated, so named, as it is thought, of the water spreading it selfe in manner of a Poole: whence there is a convenient passage over into Ireland and much frequented, and in that respect more notorious, than for any Antiquity. For, there is no mention extant thereof any where in ancient Writers, but that Ro∣ger of Poictiers, who was Lord, as they spake in those dayes, of the Honour of Lan∣caster, built a Castle heere. Whereof the worthy family of the Molineaux Knights have had the custody now a long time, whose chiefe seat is hard by at Sefion, which, the said Roger of Poictiers gave unto Vivian de Molineaux, shortly after the first en∣try of the Normans. For, all that Territory betweene the two Rivers Ribel and Mer∣sey, [ E] the same Roger held: as appeareth evidently by the authenticall Record of Domes∣day booke. Neere unto Seston, Alt a little River seeketh a way into the Sea, and when hee hath found it, giveth name to a small Village Attmouth standing by, and hath Ferneby neere unto it: wherein the moist and mossie soile turffes are digged up, which serve the inhabitants for fewell and candle light. Under the said turfes, there is a certaine dead and blackish water, upon which there swimmeth, I wot not what unctuous matter, and in it swimme little fishes that are caught by the diggers of turfe:* 1.308 So that wee may say, there bee fishes digged heere out of the earth, no lesse than about Heraclea, and Ti••s in Pontus. And no mervaile, seeing that in such wa∣tery places fishes otherwhiles seeking for moisture get under the ground, and men [ F] goe a fishing with spades. But, that in Paphlagonia many and those good fishes are gotten by digging in places nothing watery, there is some secret and peculiar rea∣son thereof in Nature: and pleasantly wrote Seneca, Why should not fishes enter and passe into the land, if we passe over the Sea?

[ A] From hence the open shore shooteth out with a great bent; and more within land from the sea standeth Ormeskirke a mercate towne,* 1.309 well knowne by reason of the se∣pulture there of the Stanleys, Earles of Derby, whose chiefe seat Latham is hard by: a stately house, which they have enlarged continually, ever since King Henry the Fourth his dayes, what time Sir John Stanley knight, father to John Lord deputy of Ireland, descended of the same stemme whence the Barons de Audley, married the daughter and heire of Sir Thomas Latham, a right noble knight, who brought to him for her dowrie this faire inheritance,* 1.310 with many other possessions. And from that time have the Stanleys planted their seat heere: of whom Thomas, the [ B] sonne of Thomas Lord Stanley, was by King Henry the seventh created Earle of Derby; and had issue by Eleonor Nevill daughter to the Earle of Salisbury, George Lord Strange, for he had wedded Joan the onely daughter and heire of John Baron Le Strange of Knockin, who dying in his fathers life time, begat a sonne named Tho∣mas, the second Earle of Derby; unto whom Anne, the daughter of Edward Lord Hastings, bare Edward the third Earle of Derby, who begat of Dorothea, daughter of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke, Henry the fourth Earle; who married Mar∣garet, daughter of Henry Clifford Earle of Cumberland, mother unto Ferdinando the fifth Earle lately deceased, and to William now the sixth Earle, who succeeded his brother: but I forget my selfe now, when as I have formerly remembred as [ C] much.

Duglesse a riveret,* 1.311 creepeth and stealeth along quietly by this place; neere unto which our noble Arthur, as Ninnius writeth, put the Saxons to flight in a memora∣ble battaile.* 1.312 At the head hereof standeth the towne Wiggin, called in ancient times 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: of which name I have nothing else to say, but that in Lancashire they call buildings and houses Biggins:* 1.313 neither of the towne, but that it is faire, and a Corpora∣tion also with a Maior and Burgesses: and the parson of the Church, as I have learned, is Lord of the towne.* 1.314 Hard by it Holland sheweth it selfe, out of a younger brother, whereof that most noble and renowned race of the Hollands Earles of Kent, and Dukes also of Surry and Excester, fetched both their originall and their sirname. But [ D] the daughter and heire of the eldest brother, who flourished here in knights degree, being in the end married into the house of the Lovels, brought unto them an additi∣on of possessions,* 1.315 with her Armes, viz. in a shield Azure * 1.316 florete Argent a Lion ram∣pant gardant Arg. Neere unto the mouth of Duglesse is Merton, a very great & large poole, which emptieth it selfe into this river, and then streight waies meeteth with the river Ribell, neare his out-let; for this is the next river after Mersey that run∣neth into the sea, and hath not yet lost quite his former ancient name; for Ptolomee calleth the salt water or arme of the sea here BELLISAMA,* 1.317 and we Ribell, perhaps by addition of the Saxon word Rhe unto it, that signifieth a River. This river comming with a quicke and hasty streame out of the hils in Yorke-shire, taketh his course first [ E] Southward, by three exceeding high mountaines, Ingleborow hill at the spring head, which I wondered at to see how it ascendeth as it were by degrees with a huge and mighty ridge Westward, and at the farthest end mounteth up into the aire, as if an o∣ther hill were set upon the head of it:* 1.318 Penigent, haply so called of his whitish & snowy top, for so Pengwin signifieth in the british tongue: and he riseth aloft with an huge bulke, howbeit not altogether so high as the other. But when Ribell commeth into Lancashire (for those two stand in Yorke-shire) Pendle-hill advanceth it selfe up to the skie with a lofty head,* 1.319 and in the very top thereof bringeth forth a peculiar plant,* 1.320 which, as though it came out of the clowdes, they tearme Clowdes-bery. But this mountaine is most notorious for the harme that it did not long since to the coun∣try [ F] lying beneath it, by reason of a mighty deale of water gushing out of it: as also for an infallible prognostication of raine, so often as the top thereof is covered with a mist. Of these hils I have made mention the more willingly, both because they are the highest in our Apennine: whence commeth this vulgar Rhime.

Ingleborow, Pendle, and Penigent, Are the highest hils betweene Scotland and Trent.

As also that the reader may understand, as I said before, why the highest Alpes [ A] were called of the old Gaules Penninae,* 1.321 and why the very top of the hils, named Pen∣num, and Apennini,* 1.322 were of them so tearmed. For Pen in the British tongue signifi∣eth the tops of hils. By an out corner or parcel of Pendle hill, standeth Clithero castle, built by the Lacies neere unto Ribell, and a neighbour unto it Whaley, in the Saxon tongue Walalez, famous for the monastery that the said Lacies founded, which was translated from Stanlaw in Cheshire hither, in the yeere 1296. where in the yeere 798. duke Wade unfortunately gave battaile to Ardulph King of Northumberland, at Billangho, which is more short called Langho. This Ribell no sooner turneth into the West,* 1.323 but imparteth his name to a small towne, which in our age is called Ribleche∣ster: [ B] where are digged up from time to time so many monuments of Romane anti∣quity, statues, peeces of coyn, Pillars, Piedestals & Chapters of pillars, heathen altars, Marble-stones and inscriptions, that the inhabitants may seeme not without cause to have this hobling rhyme so rise in their mouthes.

It is written upon a wall in Rome, Ribchester was as rich as any towne in Christendome.

And the port high wayes came directly hither, rai••ed up with eminent cause is: one from Yorke, another out of the North, through Bowland-Forrest, a spacious peece of ground, which as yet is most evidently to be seene for many miles together. But the country folke have so disfigured the inscriptions, that although I did see many, yet [ C] could I scarce read one or two of them. At Salesbury hall, an house of that ancient family of the Talbots, standing neere by, I saw the base or foot of a pillar with this inscription.

DEO MARTI, ET VICTORIAE DD. AUGG. ET. CC—NN [ D]

In a wall neare unto it, there is another great stone infixed, shewing in the fore-part Cupid and another little image; out of the backe-side or reverse whereof this was ex∣emplified for me: but the inscription carrieth no sense with it, which because it trou∣bled me a long time, I will set down here underneath, to see what the opinion of other men is of it.

SEOESAM [ E] ROLNASON OSALVEDN AL. Q. Q. SAR. BREVENM BEDIANIS ANTONI US MEG. VI. IC. DOMU ELITER.

[ F]

For mine owne part, I can make nothing else thereof, but that most of these words were the British names of places adjoining. In the yeere 1603. when I went a second time to see this place, I hapned upon the greatest and fairest Altar that ever I saw, de∣dicated to the Mother Goddesses by a Captain of the Asturians, with this inscription.

[ A] DEISMATRIBVS M.* 1.324 INGENVI∣VS [ B] ASIATICVS * 1.325DEC. AL. AST. SS. LL. M.

[ C]

Concerning these DEABUS,* 1.326 or DEIS MATRIBUS, that is, Mothers Goddesses, what they were I cannot finde out with all my searching: for in the volumes of In∣scriptions gathered through the world, save in another Altar besides found among us, they are not mentioned, as farre as I remember. Onely I read that Enguium, a little towne in Sicily, was ennobled for the presence of the MOTHER GODDESSES, wherein were shewed certaine speares and brazen helmets, which Metio and Ulysses consecrated to those Goddesses.

Another little Altar I saw there, cast out among rubbish stone, with this inscription.

[ D]

PACIFE RO MARTI ELEGAUR BA POS UIT EX VO TO.

[ E] So small a one this was, that it may seeme to have beene some poore mans little altar to carry with him to and fro, serving only to burne and offer incense or salt, and meale upon it: whereas that other was farre bigger, and made for to sacrifice and of∣fer greater beasts upon it.* 1.327 In these altars the posterity no doubt imitated Noah, even after they had fallen away and revolted from the true worship of God. Nei∣ther erected they altars to their Gods onely, but also unto their Emperours by way of servile flattery, with this impious title, NUMINI MAIESTATIQUE EORUM, that is, unto their GOD-HEAD and Majesty. Unto these they kneeled in humble maner, these they clasped about and embraced as they prayed, before these they tooke their oathes: and in one word, in these and in their sacrifices consisted the maine substance of all their religion, so farre forth, that whosoever had no altar of their owne, they [ F] were thought verily to have no religion, nor to acknowledge any God at all.

Moreover, very lately, and but the other day, a stone was digged up here, where∣in was engraven the naked portract or image of a man on horse-backe, without saddle, without bridle, with both hands seeming to launce his speare, and ready to ride over a naked man lying downe along at his foot, who holdeth be∣fore I wot not what foure square peece. Betweene the horse and him that

lieth along are these letters D.M. and under him so lying, are read these words CAL. [ A] SARMATA.* 1.328 All the letters beside, which were many, are so worne out and gone, that they could not be read, neither list I to guesse any farther what they were. That ALA SARMATARUM, that is, a wing of Sarmatian horsemen abode in this place, it may seeme, as well by that former inscription, as by this, that many yeeres before was found hard by.

HIS. TERRIS. TEGITUR. [ B] AEL. MATRONA QU— * 1.329VIX. AN. XXVIII. M. II. D. VIII. ET. M. JULIUS MAXIMUS. FIL. VIX. AN. VI. M. III. D. XX. ET CAM PANIA. DUBBA. MATER VIX. AN. L. JULIUS. MAXIMUS —ALAE. SAR. CONJUX CONJUGI. INCOMPARABILI ET. FILIO. PATRI. PIENTIS [ C] SIMO. ET SOCERAE. TENA CISSIMAE MEMORIAE. P.

But hence have wee no light at all toward the finding out of the ancient name of this place which now is in question, unlesse it hath now and then changed the name, which otherwhiles usually happeneth. For in this place Ptolomy hath set RIGODU∣NUM: if for RIBODUNUM,* 1.330 the name is not altogether unlike to Ribbechester: and just at this distance from Mancunium,* 1.331 that is, Manchester, that is to say 18. miles off, doth Antonine place COCCIM, which also in some copies we read GOCCIUM. [ D]

But when the flourishing fortune of this City, having runne the full and fatall pe∣riod, was faded, either by warre, or earthquake, as the common sort doe think, some∣what lower where Ribell suffereth the violence of the flowing tides of the Sea, and is called of the Geographer BELLISAMA AESTUARIUM, that is, the salt-water BELLI∣SAMA, neare unto Peneworth,* 1.332 where in the Conquerors reigne there was a little castle (as appeareth by the Records of the said King) out of the fall of Riblechester arose in steed of it her daughter Preston, a great, and (for these Countries) a faire town, & well inhabited, so called of religious men; for in our speech the name soundeth as much as Priests towne. Beneath this Ribell, Derwen a rill commeth in with his water: and the first mercate towne that hee watereth is Blacke-borne, so called of the Blacke-water, [ E] which towne belonging in times past to the Lacies, gave name unto Blackburne-shire, a little territory adjoining;* 1.333 from thence it runneth by Houghton-towre, which com∣municated the name unto a notable family that long time dwelt in it: and by Wale∣ton, which William,* 1.334 Lord of Lancaster, King Stephens sonne, gave unto Walter de Walton: and afterward it was the possession of the ancient race of the Langtons, who descended from the said Waltons. But now let us returne.

The said Preston whereof I spake, is by the common people called Preston in An∣dernesse, for Acmundes-nesse,* 1.335 for so the English Saxons tearmed this part of the shire, which lying between the two rivers, Ribel and Cocar, stretcheth out with a promon∣tory in manner of a nose, which afterwards they also called Acmundernesse. Wherein [ F] were no more but 16. villages inhabited in King William the Conquerors time; the rest lay wast, as we read in Doomes-day booke, and Roger of Poictiers held the same.

But afterwards it belonged to Theobald Walter: from whom the Bottelers of Ire∣land derive their beginning: for thus wee read in a Charter of K. Richard the first, Know yee, that wee have given, and by this present Charter confirmed unto Theobald

[ A] Walter, for his homage and service, Agmondernesse full and whole, with all the apperte∣nences, &c. This part yeeldeth plenty of oates, but not so apt to beare barly. How∣beit it is full of fresh pastures, especially to the sea side, where it is partly Champion ground,* 1.336 and thereupon it seemeth that a good part of it is called The File, for the Field (and yet in the Kings Rolls it goeth under the Latine name LIMA, that is, a File, namely, that Smithes toole or instrument wherewith Iron, or any other thing is smoothed.) But because elsewhere it is marish ground, they hold it not very wholsome. Wie, a little river speedily cutting over this part, commeth rolling downe out of Wierdale,* 1.337 a very solitary place, and runneth by Grenhaugh Castle, which Tho∣mas [ B] Stanley, the first Earle of Derby out of this family, built: what time as hee stood in feare of certaine out-lawed Gentlemen of this shire, whose possessions King Henry the seventh had freely given unto him. For many an assault they gave him, and other whiles in hostile manner made inrodes into his lands, untill the moderate carriage of the good and worthy man, and processe of time pacified these quarrels.

Here along the sea shore,* 1.338 you may see in many places heaps of sand, whereup∣on they powre water, untill it gather a saltish humour, which afterwards with turfes they boile untill it be white salt. There be also here uncertaine sands not to bee tru∣sted, but ready to catch and swallow (they call them Quick-sands) so dangerous for [ C] travellers, whiles at a low water, when tide is past, they seeke to goe the nearest way, that they had need to take very good heed lest in going a foot (I use Sidonius his words) they suffer not shipwracke, and be cast away on the land. But especially a∣bout the mouth of Cocar,* 1.339 where, as it were, in a field of Syrts or Quick-sands, Cokar sand Abbey, an Abbey not long since of the Cluniack Monkes, built by Ranulph de Meschines, but open to the violence of windes, stood betweene the mouths of Co∣car and Lune or Lone,* 1.340 and hath a bleake prospect into the wide Irish sea. This river Lone, commonly called Lune, springing out of the mountaines of Westmorland, running Southward in a chanell now broad, now narrow, with many a reach in and out hindring his streame, enricheth the dwellers thereby in Summer time with great [ D] store of Salmons: which because they delight in cleere water, and especially in shal∣low places that are sandy, come up thicke together into this, and other rivers of this coast. As soone as Lune is entred into Lancashire, Lace, a little brooke from out of the East,* 1.341 joyneth his streame with it. In which place now standeth Over-Burrow, a very small village of husbandmen; which, as the inhabitants enformed mee, had beene sometimes a great City, and tooke up all those large fields betweene Lacce and Lone, and after it had suffered all miseries that follow famine, was driven to composition through extremity. This tradition they received from their ance∣stours, delivered as it were from hand to hand unto them. And in very truth by di∣vers and sundry monuments exceeding ancient, by engraven stones, pavements of [ E] square checker worke, peeces of Romane coine, and by this new name Burrow, which with us signifieth a Burgh, that place should seeme to bee of great antiqui∣ty. But if it recover the ancient name, it may thanke other and not mee, although I have sought as narrowly, and diligently for it, as for Ants pathes: neither is any man to thinke, that the severall names of every towne in Britaine are precisely noted and set done in Ptolomee, Antonine, The Notice of Provinces, and other approved and principall Authors. But if a man may goe by ghesse, I would willingly thinke that it was BREMETONACUM (which Ierome Surita, a Spaniard, in his notes upon Anto∣nine,* 1.342 or Rible-chester deemeth truely to be a different place from BREMENTURACUM) and that by the distance from COCCIUM, or Rible-chester.

[ F] From this Burrow the river Lune runneth beside Thurland Tunstalls, a fortresse built by Sir Thomas Tunstall in the time of King Henry the fourth, when the King had given him Licence to fortifie and kernell his mansion house;* 1.343 that is, to embatle it: also by Hornby a faire castle, which glorieth much of the first founder, N. de Mont Begon, and of the Lords thereof, The Harringtons and Stanleys, Barons Stanleyes of Mont-Eagle, descended from Thomas Stanley, the first Earle of Derby of that house,

and advanced to that title by King Henry the eighth, of whom the third and the last [ A] named William, left behind him his onely daughter and heire, Elizabeth, wife to Edward Parker Baron Morley, mother to Sir William Parker, whom in that regard King James commanded to be summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Mont-Eagle, and whom wee and all our posterity may acknowledge to have beene borne for the good of all Britain. For, by a short letter, obscurely penned, and secretly sent unto him, and by him dutifully discovered, in a happy houre was detected, at the ve∣ry last houre, in a maner, when the whole State was at the point to perish by the most horrible and detestable treason, that ever any barbarous impiety could contrive: what time certaine godlesse and irreligious monsters of men,* 1.344 masking under the man∣tle [ B] of religion, having bestowed a great quantity of gun-powder under the Parlia∣ment house, stood ready with match in hand to give fire thereto, for to blow up both Prince and Countrey with one blast in a moment.

Lone having passed on some few miles from hence, commeth within the sight of Lancaster,* 1.345 standing on his South banke, the chiefe towne of this region: which the inhabitants more truly call Loncaster, as the Scots also, who name it Loncastell, of the River Lone. Both the name still remaining, and the river running under it, doe ar∣gue in some sort that it is LONGOVICUM, where, under the Lievtenant Generall of Britaine, as wee finde in the Notice of Provinces, a company of the Longovicari∣ans, who of the place borrowed that name, kept their station. Although the towne [ C] at this day is not very well peopled, nor much frequented, and all the inhabitants thereof are given to husbandry (for the territory all round about is well manured, ly∣ing open, fresh and faire, and not voide of woods:) yet for proofe of Romane anti∣quity, they finde otherwhiles peeces of the Emperours coine, especially where the Friery stood: for there, they say, was the plot upon which the ancient City was planted, which the Scots, after they had with a sudden out-road wasted all in their way, in the yeere of our Redemption 1322. set on fire and burnt. Since which time they have begunne to build nearer unto a greene hill by the river side, on which standeth the castle, great I cannot say, nor of any antiquity, but faire and strong. And hard by it standeth upon the height of the hill, the onely Church they have, where the Monkes aliens had in times past a cell founded by Roger of [ D] Poictiers. A little beneath which, by a faire bridge over Lone, in the descent and side of the hill where it is steepest, hangeth a peece of a most ancient wall of Ro∣mane work, seeming ready to reele; Wery wall they call it, after a later British name, as it should seeme, of this towne. For they called it Caer Werid, as one would say, The Greene City, happely of that fresh greene hill. But I leave this to others. John Lord of Moriton and of Lancaster, afterwards King of England, confirmed by Charter to his Burgesses of Lancaster, all the liberties which he had granted unto the Burgesses of Bristoll. And King Edward the third in the sixe and thirtieth yeere of his reign, gran∣ted unto the Mayor and Bailives, and Commonalty of the towne of Lancaster, that Plees and Sessions should not elsewhere bee holden. This towne seeth the Pole Arcticke [ E] (that I may note so much) elevated foure and fifty degrees and five minutes, and standeth removed from the utmost line of the West, twenty degrees and forty eight minutes in Longitude.

Whiles I looked round about from the top of the said castle hill, to see the mouth of Lone,* 1.346 that issueth it selfe into the sea a little lower, Fornesse the other part of this shire appeared in sight, which the sea hath after a sort violently rent apart from the rest. For when as the shore did from hence shoote out a maine way into the West, the Ocean, as it were much displeased and angry hereat, obstinately ceased not to flash and mangle it, nay, which is more, hath with his fell flowing at boisterous tides devoured the shore: and thereby maketh three wide cre••kes or bayes; [ F] namely, Kent-sand, at which the river Ken powreth it selfe forth; Leven-sand, and Dudden-sand: betweene which (two) the land beareth out so much, that thereupon it tooke the name. For with us in our language, For-nesse & Foreland is all one with the Latine Promontorium anterius (that is, a Fore-promontory.) All this part, unlesse it

[ A] be hard by the sea side, mounteth up aloft with high topped hils, and huge fels stan∣ding thicke together (which they tearme Forness-fells. Among which the Britans li∣ved safe a great while, trusting upon these strong naturall fenses: although the victo∣rious English Saxons made way through all in the end. For in the yeere 228. after there comming in, I gather that the Britans had their abode here, because Egfride King of Northumberland,* 1.347 gave unto Holy Saint Cuthbert, the land called Carthmell, and all the Britans in it (thus we finde written in his life) and it is very well knowne that Carthmell is a part of this shire by Kentsand, and a little towne in it retaineth yet the same name: Wherein William Mareschall the elder, Earle of Pembroch built a [ B] Priory, and endowed it with living. If you read in Ptolomee SETANTIORUM 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, The Setantians Mere, as some Copies have; and not Setantiorum 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, The Setantians Haven, I durst boldly avouch that these Britans here were cal∣led SETANTII. For among these mountaines the greatest standing water in all Eng∣land, now called Winander-mere;* 1.348 in the English Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 (haply of his winding and turning in and out) lieth stretched out for the space of ten miles or thereabout with crooked bankes, and is all paved (as it were) with stone in the bot∣tome: in some places of wonderfull depth, and breeding a peculiar kinde of fish found no where else,* 1.349 which the inhabitants there by call A Chare. And a little vil∣lage standing hard by carrieth the name thereof: In which Eathred King of Nor∣thumberland, [ C] in the yeer of Christ 792. when he had by force fetched King Elfwolds sonnes out of Yorke, flue them, that by his owne wickednesse, and their blood, hee might secure the Kingdome to himselfe and his.

Betwixt this Mere and the river Dudden, the promontory runneth out, which wee commonly call Fornesse, and hath the Iland Walney, as a fore-fence or countre∣mure lying along by it, with a small arme of the sea betweene: The gullet or entry into which is defended with a fort, called the Pile of Fouldrey, standing in the midst of the waves upon a rocke, erected there by the Abbot of Fornesse, in the first yeere of King Edward the third.

As for the Promontory it selfe,* 1.350 there is nothing worth the sight in it, unlesse it be [ D] the ruines of a monastery of Cistertian Monkes, called Fornesse Abbey, which Ste∣phen Earle of Bullen, afterwards King of England, in the yeere of our redemption 1127. built in a place called sometimes Bekensgill, or translated rather from Tulket in Andernesse. Out of the Monkes whereof, and from no place else (as they themselves have reported) the Bishops of the Isle of Man (that lieth just over against) were by an ancient custome wont to bee elected: as having beene the mother (as it were) of many Monasteries in the said Man,* 1.351 and in Ireland. More Eastward standeth Alding∣ham, an ancient hereditament belonging to the family of the Haveringtons, or Har∣ringtons, unto whom it came from the Flemmings, by the Cancefelds; and whose in∣heritance descended by a daughter unto William Bonvill of Somersetshire, and at last [ E] by him unto the Greies, Marquesses of Dorset. And somwhat higher is Ulverston, in this regard not to bee passed over in silence, for that King Edward the third gave a moity thereof unto Sir John Coupland, a most brave warriour: whom also he advan∣ced to the dignity of a Banaret, because in the battaile at Durham, he took David the second King of the Scots prisoner. But after his decease, the same King granted it with other faire lands in this tract, and the title also of Earle of Bedford, unto Ingel∣ram Lord Coucy of France, as who had married his daughter Isabel, and whose ance∣stours in right of Christiana Lindsey, had great revenewes in England.

Touching the noble men which have borne the title of Lancaster,* 1.352 there were in the first infancy of the Norman Empire three stiled Lords of the Honour of Lancaster: [ F] namely, Roger of* 1.353 Poictou, the sonne of Roger Mont-gomery, who was surnamed Pictavensis, as William of Malmesbury writeth, because hee had married a wife from out of Poictou in France. But when he had by his perfidious disloyalty lost this

honour, William the sonne of King Stephen, and Earle of Moriton and Warren, had [ A] the same given unto him by his Father. After whose death King Richard the first bestowed it upon his brother John, who was afterward King of England. For thus we read in an old History: King Richard declared his singular love to his brother Iohn. For beside Ireland,* 1.354 and the Earledome of Moriton in Normandy, he heaped upon him so many dignities in England, that he was in maner a Tetrarch there: Finally, he conferred upon him Cornwall, Lancaster, Notingham, Derby, with the country adjoining, and ma∣ny more beside. A good while after King Henry the third, the sonne of John, first advanced Edmund his second sonne, called by some Crouth-backe, to the title of Earle of Lancaster, unto whom hee conveyed and made over the inheritances and [ B] honours of Simon Montfort Earle of Leicester, Robert Ferrars Earle of Derby, and John of Monmouth, because they had risen, and rebelliously born armes against him: and he gave this Honor of Lancaster unto him in these words, The Honour, County, Castle and Town of Lancaster, with the Cow-pastures, & forrests of Wiresdale, & Lowns∣dale, New castle under Lime, the manour, forrest, and Castle of Pickering, the manor of Scaleby, the towne of Gomicester, and the rents of the towne of Huntendon, &c. After hee the said Edmund had missed the kingdome of Sicily, in which the Pope had in∣vested him in vaine by a ring, and not without ridiculous disgrace to the English na∣tion, caused in honour of him certaine peeces of gold to bee stamped, with this title, AIMUNDUS REX SICILIAE,* 1.355 having first cunningly suckt a great masse of money [ C] from the credulous King in this regard. This Edmund (when his first wife Avelina, daughter and heire to William de Fortibus Earle of Albemarle, was dead issuelesse, who neverthelesse in her Will had made him her heire) married Blanch of Artois, of the roiall family of France, to his second wife, and by her had Thomas, Henry, and John, that died an infant. Thomas was the second Earle of Lancaster, who tooke to wife Alice, the onely daughter and heire of Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne: who by her deed passed over unto the house of Lancaster her owne inheritance, and her mothers, that which belonged to the family of Long Espee, who were Earles of Sa∣lisbury, like as her father the said Henry Lacy had made the like conveiance before of his owne lands, in case Alice should dye without issue, as it afterward happened. But this Thomas, for behaving himselfe insolently toward his soveraigne Edward the se∣cond, [ D] and still supplying fewell to civill warres, being taken prisoner in the field, lost his head, leaving no issue. Howbeit, when this sentence of death pronounced a∣gainst him, was afterwards by authority of Parliament reversed, because hee had not his tryall by his Peeres, according to the Law, and great Charter, his brother Henry succeeded after him in all his possessions and honours. Hee also was advanced in e∣state by his wife Maude, daughter and sole heire of Sir Patricke * 1.356 Chaworth, who brought unto him not onely her owne patrimony, but also great inheritances in Wales, of Mauric of London, and of Siward, from whom she descended. This Henry left behind him Henry his onely sonne, whom King Edward the third from an Earle raised unto the honour of a Duke:* 1.357 and he was second man of all our Nobility [ E] which received the name of Duke. But hee, having no issue male, departed this life, leaving behind him two daughters, Maude and Blanch, betweene whom the in∣heritance was divided. Maud was married to William of Bavaria, who was Earle of Holland, Zeland, Frisland, Henault, and in his wives right, of Leicester. And when as she deceased without children, John of Gaunt, so called because hee was borne at Gaunt in Flanders, fourth sonne of King Edward the third, who had married Blanch, the other daughter of Henry aforesaid, entred upon the whole inheri∣tance: and now being for wealth equivalent to many Kings, and created withall by his father Duke of Lancaster, he obtained also at his hands great roialties; for hee, having related what noble service he had performed to his countrey, at home and a∣broad [ F] in the warres, preferred the County of Lancaster to the dignity of a County

[ A] Palatine, by his letters Patent, the tenour whereof runneth in this wise. Wee have granted for us and our heires, unto our foresaid sonne, that he may have for tearme of his life, his Chancery within the County of Lancaster, and his writs to be sealed under his own seale to be appointed for the office of the Chancellour: also Iustices of his owne, as well to hold Plees of the Crowne, as also other plees whatsoever touching common Law: also the hearing and deciding of the same, yea and the making of all executions whatsoever, by vertue of their owne writs and officers there.

Moreover, all other liberties and Roialties whatsoever to a County Palatine belonging, as freely and in as ample maner, as the Earle of Chester within the same County of Chester [ B] is known to have &c. Neither was he Duke of Lancaster onely, but also by his mar∣riage with Constance the daughter of Peter King of Leon and Castile,* 1.358 hee for a time was stiled by the name of King of Leon and of Castile. But by a composition he gave this over; and in the thirteenth yeere of King Richard the Second, by consent of Parliament was created Duke of Aquitaine, to have and hold the same for tearme of life of the King of England, as King of France: but to the universall dislike of A∣quitaine, repining, and affirming that their Seigniory was inseparably annexed to the Crowne of England. At which time his stile ranne thus, Iohn, sonne to the King of England, Duke of Aquitaine and of Lancaster, Earle of Derby, Lincolne, and Leicester, and high Steward of England.

[ C] After him,* 1.359 Henry of Bollinbroke his sonne succeeded in the Dukedome of Lan∣caster, who when hee had dispossessed Richard the second, and obtained the King∣dom of England; he considering that being now King he could not beare the title of Duke of Lancaster, and unwilling that the said title should be discontinued, ordained by assent of Parliament, that Henry his eldest sonne should enjoy the same, and be stiled, Prince of Wales, Duke of Aquitain, Lancaster, and Cornwall, and Earle of Chester: and also that the liberties and franchises of the Dutchy of Lancaster, should remaine to his said sonne severed from the Crowne of England: and to make better assurance to himselfe, his heires and successours in these inheritances, by authority of Parlia∣ment he ordained in these words.* 1.360 We, not willing that our said inheritance, or the liber∣ties [ D] of the same, by occasion of this present assumption upon us of our regall state & digni∣ty, should be in any thing changed, transferred, diminished, or impaired, will that the same our inheritance, with the foresaid rights and liberties thereof, be kept, continued, and held fully and wholly, to us & our said heires in the said Charters specified, in the same maner and forme, condition and state, as they descended and came unto us: and also with all and every such liberties and franchises, and other priviledges, commodities, and profits what∣soever, in which our Lord and father whiles he lived had and held it for terme of his own life, by the grant of Richard late King. And by the tenour of these presents, of our own cer∣taine knowledge, with the consent of this our present Parliament, we grant, declare, de∣cree, and ordaine for us and our heires, that as well our Dutchy of Lancaster, as all other [ E] things and every one, Counties, Honours, Castles, Manours, Fees, or Inheritances, Advo∣cations, Possessions, Annuities, and Seignories whatsoever, descended unto us before the obtaining of our Regall dignity, howsoever & wheresoever, by right of inheritance in ser∣vice, or in reversion, or any way whatsoever, remaine for ever to us and our said heires, specified in the Charters abovesaid, in forme aforesaid.

After this, K. Henry the fifth by authority of Parliament dissevered from the crown and annexed unto this Dutchy a very great and large inheritance, which had descen∣ded unto him in right of his mother Dame Mary, who was daughter and one of the heires of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford. In this forme and estate it remained un∣der Henry the fifth, and Henry the sixth: but King Edward the fourth in the first [ F] yeere of his reigne, when hee had in Parliament attainted and forfeited Henry the sixth, appropriated it, as they use to speake, unto the Crowne, that is to say, un∣to himselfe, and his heires Kings of England: From which King Henry the seventh

notwithstanding forthwith separated. And so it continueth, having severall officers, [ A] namely, A Chancellor, an Attourney, a Receiver, a Clerke of the Court, sixe Assistants, a Messenger, two Auditors, 23. Receivers, and three Supervisors, &c.

[ B]

There are counted in this shire, beside very many Chappels, Parishes 36. and no more: but those wonderfull populous, and which for multitude of inhabitants, farre exceed the greatest parishes elsewhere.

[ C] [ D] [ E] [ F]

[illustration]

WESTMORLANDIAE Comitatus qui olim Spectaint ad BRIGANTAS

[illustration]

[ A]

WEST-MOR-LAND.

BEYOND the furthest part of Lancashire more Northward, lieth another lesser countrey of the Brigantes, called by late Latine writers Westmaria, and Westmorlandia, in our tongue West-more-land, and of some later Latine writers Westmoria: bounded on the West and North side with Cumberland, [ B] on the East with Yorke-shire, and the Bishopricke of Dur∣ham. Which because it lyeth all of it among moores and high hilles reaching one to another (for our Apennine waxeth here broader and broader still as it runneth) and was for the most part un-manured, came by this name in our language. For such barren places, which cannot easily by the painfull labour of the husbandman bee brought to fruitfulnesse, the Northren Englishmen call Moores: and West-more-land is nothing else with us, but A westerne moorish country. Let that dreame therefore as touching King Marius, bee excluded out of the schoole of reverend antiquity, who forsooth, as our Chroniclers have dreamed, subdued the Picts, and called this countrey after his owne name.

[ C] The more Southerly part of this shire, contained in a narrow roome betweene the river Lone and Winander mere, is reputed fruitfull enough in the vallies, although it can shew many felles,* 1.361 with rough and stony rockes, lying ever bare without grasse: and is all tearmed by one name, The Barony of Kendale and Candale, that is, The Dale by Can: for it took name of the river Can, which running rough upon stones, cutteth through it. On the west banke whereof standeth Kandale or Kendale, called also Kirke by Kandale, a towne of very great trade and resort, with two broad and long streets crossing the one over the other; and a place for excellent clothing, and for in∣dustry so surpassing, that in regard thereof it carrieth a great name: For the inha∣bitants have great trafficke and vent of their woollen clothes throughout all parts of [ D] England.* 1.362 They count it also much for their credit, that it hath dignified Barons and Earles with the title thereof. As for their Barons, they were the offspring of Iuo Taleboys: of whose race, William, by consent of King Henry the second, called himselfe William of Lancaster,* 1.363 whose Niece and heire was wedded unto Gilbert, the sonne of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid, by whose daughters (after her sonne William was dead) the inheritance went to Peter Brus, Lord of Skelton, the second of that fore∣name, and unto William Lindesay;* 1.364 from whom by the mothers side, as we learne out of the Lieger book of Fornesse Abbey, Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France, fetched his descent. By which Peter Brus his daughter, the sister and heire of Peter Brus the third, came this Barony to the Rosses of Werke, and from them by right of inheritance [ E] this possession was devolved upon the Parres, of whom Sir William Par was made Lord Par by King Henry the eighth. As for the Castle, the ancient seat of these Lords, standing over against the towne, it runneth to decay through age and neglect. As for Earles of Kendale,* 1.365 there have beene three in number: John Duke of Bedford, advanced to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth: John Duke of Somer∣set: and John de Foix, of that most noble and honorable family of the Foix in France, whom King Henry the sixth, for his faithfull service in the French warres, had pre∣ferred to that dignity. Whence perhaps it is, that some of this house of Foix in France, retain the name still of Candale. As for any glory else of antiquity, Kendall to my knowledge challengeth none. And yet I was once of opinion, that it was CON∣CANGII, [ F] a station place sometimes of the Romanes; but time hath now instructed mee better.* 1.366 Somewhat beneath, in the river Can, are two Catadupae, or water falls, where the waters have a downefall with a mighty noise: the one is by Levens, a little village; the other more Southward, neere to Betham; which to the neighbour inhabitants are as good as true prognostications: for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleere and aloud in their eares, they looke certainely for

faire weather: when that on the South side doth the same, they expect no other [ A] than showers of raine, and foggy mists. Thus much for the South and narrower part of this region, which Westward is bounded with the river Winster, and the spa∣tious Lake Winander-mere, whereof I spake erewhile, and Eastward with the river Lone or Lune.

At the upper corner of Winander-mere lieth the dead carcasse, as one would say, of an ancient City, with great ruines of walls, and many heapes of rubbish one from another, remaining of buildings without the walls yet to bee seene. The fortresse thereof was somewhat long, fensed with a ditch and rampire; for it tooke up in length 132. Ells, and in bredth 80. That it had beene the Romans worke is evident, [ B] by the British brickes, by the mortar tempered with little peeces of bricke among, by small earthen pots or pitchers, by small cruets or vials of glasse, by peeces of Roman money oftentimes there found, and by round stones as much as milstones or quernstones, of which layed and couched together they framed in old time their co∣lumnes, and by the paved high waies leading unto it. Now the ancient name thereof is gone,* 1.367 unlesse a man would ghesse at it, and thinke it were that AMBO∣GLANA, whereof the booke of Notices maketh mention, seeing at this day it is cal∣led Ambleside.

On the East side the river Lone serveth for a limit, and after his name the tract ly∣ing about it is called Lonsdale: the principall towne whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale, [ C] whither all the people round about repaire to Church and mercate. Above the Spring-head of Lone, the countrey spreadeth broader, and the hills shoot out with many turnings, betweene which there lye some vallies marvellous steepe and deepe withall, with many hollow places in manner of caves. Among these hills that no∣table river Eden, which Ptolomee calleth ITUNA, shewing his head first in Yorkshire, carrying a small and faint streame in the beginning, but afterwards growing by lit∣tle and little bigger, with sundry beckes still augmenting it, seeketh a way North∣west, by Pendragon Castle, which hath nothing left unto it unconsumed by time, be∣sides the bare name,* 1.368 and an heape of stones: From thence hee passeth by Wharton Hall, the seat of the Barons Wharton; of whom the first was Sir Thomas Wharton, ad∣vanced to that dignity by King Henry the Eighth, whom succeeded his sonne of the [ D] same name; and after him Philip that now liveth, the third Baron, a right honoura∣ble person. Afterwards it runneth downe by Kirkby Stephen, a mercate towne well knowne, and both the Musgraves, two little villages, which gave name unto that martiall and warlike family of the Musgraves: out of which in the reigne of King Edward the third, Thomas Musgrave flourished, and was by solemne writ of sum∣mons called to the Parliament in the ranke of Barons: and these Musgraves had their principall habitation in Heartly castle adjoining.* 1.369

Heere Eden doth, as it were, make stay with his streame, to give meeting unto o∣ther petty rivers: upon one of which, scarce two miles off from Eden it selfe, stood VERTERAE, a towne of ancient memory, mentioned by Antonine the Emperour, [ E] and the booke of Notices: wherein it is notified, that in the declining age of the Romane Empire, a Romane Captaine made his abode there, with a band of the Di∣rectores. But now the towne is decayed, and become a small poore village fensed with a little Fortresse, and the name turned into Burgh, for it is commonly named * 1.370 Burgh under Stanemore. For in the time of the later Emperours (and willing I am to note so much once for all) little castles, meet for warre occasions, and furnished with store of corne, began to bee tearmed Burgi, that is, Burghs, by a new name: which after that the Empire was translated into the East, the Germans and others may seeme to have borrowed of the Greek word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. Hence also came the name of Burgundians, because they inhabited Burghs; for so in that age they used to call [ F] those dwelling places which were planted heere and there, along limits and mar∣ches. Neither have I read any thing else of that Burgh, but that in the beginning of the Norman government, the Northren English conspired heere against William the Conquerour. That this Burgh was VERTERAE, I dare be bold to affirme, be∣cause

[ A] the distance thereof from Levatrae of the one side, and from Brovonacum on the other, being reduced into Italian miles, doth exactly agree with Antonines num∣bers: and for that the high street of the Romans, as yet evidently apparent by the ridges thereof, leadeth this way to BROVONACUM by ABALLABA, whereof men∣tion is made in the booke of Notices, which hath hitherto kept the ancient name so well, that it doth most evidently descrie and shew it selfe, yea in some sort remove all doubt.* 1.371 For we call it short in steed of ABALLABA Apelby. Memorable is it, for the antiquity and situation only. In the Romans time, no doubt, the Aurelian Mau∣res kept a station there. It standeth also in a pleasant site, encompassed for the most [ B] part with the river Eden: but so slenderly inhabited, and the building so simple, that were it not that by reason of the antiquity it had deserved to be counted the chiefe towne of the shire, and to have Sessions and Assises kept in the castle, which is the comon gaole for malefactors, it would be little better than a village. For all the beautie of it is in one broad street, which from North to South riseth with an easie ascent of the hill: in the upper part whereof standeth the castle aloft, environed whol∣ly almost with the river. In the nether end of it is the Church, and thereby a school, which Robert Langton and Miles Spenser, Doctors of the law founded; the Master whereof is Reginald Bainbrige, a right learned man, who governeth the same with great commendation; and who of his courtesie hath exemplified for mee many an∣tique [ C] inscriptions, and brought some hither into his garden. Neither verily was it for nought, that William of Newborrough calleth this town and Burgh Princely holds, where he writeth that William King of Scots, surprised them on the suddain, a lit∣tle before himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewick. Which King John afterwards having recovered, gave liberally unto Robert Vipont, in consideration of his singular good service to him and the state. From hence the river with his full course passeth directly North-west by Buley, a castle of the Bishops of Carlile; and by Kirby Thore, under which are seene great ruines of an old towne, and pieces of Roman coin other∣whiles digged up; and not long since this inscription.

[ D]

DEO BELATV CAD∣RO LIB VOTV M. FECIT. IOLVS.

But tract of time hath quite out-worne the old name, and it is called at this day Whealop-Castle.* 1.372 If I might without prejudice to the Judges of antiquitie, I would say it were GALLAGUM mentioned by Ptolomee, which Antonine nameth GALLATUM, [ E] the distance of journies accord so well, and the name doth not altogether gainsay. For what words the Britans began with GALL, the English turned into Wall. Thus they called GALENA Wallingford, and Gall Sever Wall of Sever, Gall dour Wall-broke, &c. Doubtlesse it was a place in old time of better note, seeing that from hence there leadeth a paved street (Maiden way they call it) to Caer Vorran neare the Picts wall,* 1.373 20. miles or thereabouts in length, by fells, wastes, and moores. Along which street I would willingly think, were placed those Stations and Mansions mentioned by Anto∣nine in the ninth journey of Britain; although no man is able precisely to say in what places they stood: and no marvaile, considering that time, which devoureth and con∣sumeth all things, hath continually fed upon their carcases so many ages together. [ F] Not far from Whellop, hard by Crawdundale, there are evident remaines of ditches, trenches, and mounts cast up: and among them this Roman inscription (the draught whereof Reginald Bainbrig before named, head schoolemaster of Applebey, took out for me) was ingraven in a craggie rocke, the forepart of which was quite eaten out with continuance of time, or thrust out by the root of a tree there growing.

[ A]

—VARRONIVS —ECTVS LEG. XX. V. V. —AEL. LVCANVS —P. LEG. II. AVG. C.

That is to say, by my reading—Varronius Praefectus legionis vicesimae valentis [ B] victricis—Aelius Lucanus Praefectus legionis secundae Augustae, castrametati sunt— Varronius captaine of the xx. legion valens victrix—Aelius Lucanus Captaine of the second legion Augusta, encamped, or did some such thing. For the twentieth legion called Valens victrix, which kept resience at DEVA, that is, Westchester: and the second legion named Augusta, that abode at ISCA, that is, Caer-Leon in Wales, may seeme to have beene employed against the enemies in these parts, and here to have staied and kept their standing campe for a time, and that their Captains or Collonells in memoriall hereof engraved this upon the cragge. The just time I may not easily set downe. Yet to the pointing out of the verie time, there re∣maine to be seen in a rocke there by, these great capitall letters engraven, CN. OCT. [ C] COT. COSS. But in the Consular Rolles among all the Paires of Consulls, I can meet with no such names. Yet have I observed thus much, that from the time of Se∣verus unto Gordian and afterwards, the letter A. in all the inscriptions of that age, e∣verie where in this Iland, wanteth the overthwart little line or stroke, and is made thus,* 1.374 A.

Eden holdeth on his course from hence, not farre from Howgill castle, belonging to the family of the Sandfords: but the Romane high-way goeth straight into the West by Whinfield,* 1.375 a large Parke shaded with trees, hard by BROVONIACUM, standing twentie Italian miles, or seventeene English miles from VERTERAE, as An∣tonine hath set it, who also hath called it Brovocum, like as the book of Notices, Bro∣coniacum; [ D] which specifieth, that a companie or band of Defensors had here their a∣bode. The beautie and buildings of this towne although time hath consumed, yet the name remaineth almost untouched, for we call it Brogham. Here the river Eimot, flowing out of a great lake, & for a good space dividing this shire from Cumberland, receiveth the river Loder into it: neere unto the spring head whereof, hard by Shape, in times past Hepe, a little monasterie built by Thomas the sonne of Gospatrick, sonne of Orms, there is a Well or Fountaine, which after the manner of Euripus ebbeth and floweth many times in a day: also there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides, some 9. foot high, and fourteene foot thick, ranged directly as it were in a row, for a mile in length, with equall distance almost betweene: which may seeme to have beene [ E] pitched and erected for to continue the memoriall of some act there atchieved; but what the same was, by the injurie of time it is quite forgotten. Hard by Loder, there is a place bearing the same name, which, like as Stricland neere unto it, hath imparted their names to families of ancient gentrie and worship. Somewhat above, where Lo∣der and Eimot meet in one chanell, in the yeere of our Lord 1602. there was a stone gotten out of the ground, erected in the honour of Constantine the Great, with these words.

[ F] [ A]

IMP. C. VAL. CONSTA∣NTINO [ B] * 1.376 PIENT. AUG.

When Eimot hath served a good while for a limit betweene this shire and Cum∣berland, neere unto Isan-parles,* 1.377 a rocke full well knowne unto the neighbour inhabi∣tants, whereunto nature hath left difficult passage, and there framed sundry caves, and thosefull of winding crankes, a place of safe refuge in time of danger: hee lodg∣eth himselfe after some few miles, both with his owne streame, and with the waters of other rivers also, in Eden, so soone as he hath entertained Blencarne, a brook that [ C] boundeth this county on Cumberland side: Neere unto which I have heard there be the strange ruines of an old Castle,* 1.378 the people call them the hanging walls of Mar∣cantoniby, that is, of Marke Antony, as they would have it.

As for such as have borne the title of Westmorland, the first Lord, to my know∣ledge, was Robert de Vipont, who bare Guels, sixe Annulets Or in his coat armour. For King John gave unto him the balliwicke and revenues of Westmorland, by the ser∣vice of foure Knights: whereupon the Cliffords his successors, untill our daies held the office of the Sherifdome of Westmorland. For Robert de Vipont, the last of that name, left behind him only two daughters, Isabel wife to Roger Lord Clifford, and I∣donea married unto Sir Roger Leybourne. Long time after, K. Richard the second [ D] created Ralph Nevill of Raby the first Earle of Westmorland, a man of the greatest and most ancient birth of English nobility, as descended from Ucthred Earl of Nor∣thumberland: whose heires successively by his former wife Margaret, daughter to the Earle of Stafford, flourished in that honour, untill that Charles by his wilfull sto∣mack, and wicked conspiracy, casting off his allegeance to Q. Elizabeth, and covering treason under the mantle of religion, most shamefully dishonoured that most noble house, and foully steined his owne reputation by actuall rebellion, in the yeere 1599. Whereupon hee fled into the Low countries, led a miserable life, and died as misera∣bly. [ E] The said first Earle, to note so much incidently, by his second wife Catharine, daughter to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, had so faire issue, and the name of Nevill thereby so greatly multiplied, that almost at one and the same time there flou∣rished out, beside the Earle of Westmorland, an Earle of Salisbury, an Earle of War∣wicke, an Earle of Kent, Marquesse Montacute, a Duke of Bedford, Lord Latimer, and Lord Abergevenny, all Nevils.

[ F]

In this shire are conteined Parishes 26.

[illustration]

CVMBRIA Sive CVMBERLANDIA Quae olim pars Brigantum

[illustration]

[ A]

CUMBER-LAND.

WEstward, Northward from Westmorland lieth CUMBERLAND, the utmost region this way of the realme of England, as that which on the North side boundeth upon Scotland: on the South [ B] side and the West the Irish sea beateth upon it: and Eastward a∣bove Westmorland it butteth upon Northumberland. It tooke the name of the inhabitants, who were the true and naturall Bri∣tans, and called themselves in their owne language Kumbri, and Kambri. For the Histories testifie, that the Britans remained here a long time, mau∣gre the English Saxons, howsoever they stormed thereat: yea and Marianus him∣selfe recordeth as much, who tearmed this countrey Cumbrorum terram, that is, Th•• land of the Cumbri, or Britans: to say nothing of the places, that everie where here beare British names, as Caer-Luel, Caer-dronoc, Pen-rith, Pen-rodoc, &c. which most evidently declare the same, and as cleerly prove mine assertion.

[ C] The country, although it be somewhat with the coldest, as lying farre North, and seemeth as rough by reason of hills, yet for the varietie thereof it smileth upon the beholders, and giveth contentment to as many as travaile it. For after the rockes bunching out, the mountaines standing thicke together rich of metall mines, and be∣tweene them great meeres stored with all kindes of wilde foule, you come to prettie hills good for pastorage, and well replenished with flockes of sheepe; beneath which againe you meet with goodly plaines spreading out a great way, yeelding come sufficiently. Besides all this, the Ocean driving and dashing upon the shore, affoordeth plentie of excellent good fish, and upbraideth, as it were, the inhabitants thereabouts with their negligence, for that they practise fishing no more than they [ D] doe.

The South part of this shire is called Copeland,* 1.379 and Coupland, for that it beareth up the head aloft with sharpe edged and pointed hills, which the Britans tearme Copa: or, as others would have it, named Copeland, as one would say Coperland, of rich mines of copper therein.

In this part, at the very mouth of the river Duden, whereby it is severed apart from Lancashire,* 1.380 standeth Millum Castle, belonging to the ancient house of the Hodle∣stones; from whence as the shore fetcheth about with a bent Northward, two rivers very commodiously enclose within them Ravenglasse,* 1.381 a station or roade for ships, where also, as I have learned, were to be ••eene Roman inscriptions: some will have [ E] it called in old time Aven-glasse, as one would say, the blew river, and they talke much of King Eueling,* 1.382 that here had his Court and royall palace. One of these ri∣vers named Eske springeth up at the foot of Hard-knot, an high steepe mountaine; in the top whereof were discovered of late huge stones and foundations of a castle, not without great wonder; considering it is so steep and upright, that one can hardly ascend up to it.

Somewhat higher,* 1.383 Irt a little river maketh way toward the sea, wherein the mus∣cles and cochles, after they have with a kinde of yawning or gaping sucked in dew, which they lust after to conceive by,* 1.384 bring forth pearles; or, to speake as the Poet doth, Shell-berries; which the inhabitants there by search after at a low water, and [ F] our Lapidaries and Jewellers buy of the poore needie people for a little, but sell again at an high rate: of these and such like Marbodaeus seemeth to speake in this verse,

Gignis & insignes antiqua Britannia baccas. And Britanie of ancient fame Breeds and brings forth pearles of great name.

Now by this time the shore extendeth out more and more, and encloseth West∣ward, [ A] where it maketh a little promontorie, which the common sort for Saint Bega call St. Bees.* 1.385 For Bega, a devout and religious Irish woman, led there a solitarie life; unto whose holinesse are ascribed certain vain miracles, as the taming of a wild bull, and the procuring of a mightie deep snow, which in the longest summers day by her praiers fell, and lay thicke upon the vallies and tops of hills. Scarce a mile hence standeth Egremont Castle on the top of an hill,* 1.386 the seat in times past of William de Meschines, unto whom King Henrie the first gave it, to hold by one knights service, and that he should serve at the Kings commandement in the army for Wales and Scotland. Who left behind him a daughter, the wife of William Fitz-Duncan, of the blood roi∣all [ B] of Scotland: by whose daughter also the inheritance came into the family of the Lucies: from them likewise by the Moltons and Fitz-waters, the title of Egremont de∣scended unto the Ratcliffes Earles of Sussex. And yet Sir Thomas Percie, through the favour of King Henrie the sixth, enjoyed it for a time, being summoned to the Parlia∣ment by the name of Th. Percie of Egremont.

From hence the shore drawing it selfe backe by little and little, and as it appea∣reth by the heapes of rubbish,* 1.387 it hath beene fortified all along by the Romanes, wheresoever there was easie landing. For it was the outmost bound of the Ro∣man Empire, and the Scots lay sorest upon this coast, and infested it most, when (as it were with continuall surges of warre) they flowed and flocked hither by [ C] heapes out of Ireland:* 1.388 and certaine it is that Moresby, a little village where is a roade for ships, was one of these fortifications. For there are many monuments of antiquitie, as vaults under the ground, great foundations, many caves, which they use to tearme Picts-Holes; many fragments of stones with inscriptions engraven in them are there often times found in the ground: of which upon one I read this, LUCIUS SEVERINUS ORDINATUS, on another, COH. VII. And this Altar I saw lately digged out there, with a little horned image representing Sylvanus, erected to his honour by the second Cohort of the Lingones.

* 1.389DEO SILVAN— [ D] COH. II. LING CVI PRAEES— G. POMPEIVS M— SATVRNIN—

As also this fragment, which I. Fletcher Lord of the place transcribed out for me, and sent unto mee.

[ E]

— — OB PROSPE. RITATEM CVLMINIS INSTITVTI.

* 1.390But no stone hitherto hath beene found, that assureth us that it was MORBIUM, [ F] where the Cataphractarii horsemen, or men at armes served, notwithstanding the name in some sort implieth as much. Neither is Hay-castle which I saw hard by, to be passed over with silence,* 1.391 a place verily to be regarded for antiquity sake, which by re∣port of the inhabitants belonged successively in elder time to Gentlemen surnamed Moresby and Distinton.

[ A] After this, the river Derwent hideth himselfe in the Ocean, which having his first beginning in Borrodale, a valley hemmed in with crooked hills, creepeth betweene the mountains called Derwent Fels; wherein at Newlands & elsewhere, copper mines were discovered by Thomas Shurland,* 1.392 and Daniel Hotchstat••er, a German of Aus∣purge, in our daies: and yet the same were knowne before, as appeareth by closse rowles of King Henrie the third n. 18. Upon the discoverie of these mines, there was a memorable case in law between the late QUEEN ELIZABETH of sacred memorie,* 1.393 and Thomas Percie Earl of Northumberland, in whose Lordship they were found: but in regard of the Queenes royall prerogative, and for that there were in them veins of gold and silver, they were adjudged to the Queen. But hereby it is well [ B] seene how untrue it was, that Cicero wrote in his Epistles unto Atticus: This is for certaine knowne, saith he, that there is not in the Iland Britaine so much as one scruple of silver.* 1.394 Neither would Caesar, if he had known of these mines, have written, That the Britans had use of copper brought in to them from other parts beyond sea, seeing that the mines not onely serve all England over, but also affoord great plentie beside, that is carried yeerly forth of the realme.

Here also is commonly found that minerall kind of earth, or hardned glittering stone (we call it Black-lead) with which Painters use to draw their lines, and make pi∣ctures of one colour in their first draughts: which whether it bee Pnigitis or Me∣lanteria, spoken of by Dioscorides, or Ochre, a kind of earth so burnt with heat, that it [ C] becommeth blacke, or whether it were unknowne unto the old writers, I cannot cer∣tainly averre, and let others for me search it out. Derwent, after it hath passed through these hills, spreadeth abroad into a large lake, Bede termeth it praegrande stagnum, that is, a very great poole, wherein are three Ilands eminent above the water: The one hath an house in it of the Ratcliffes, a family of Knights degree: the second is in∣habited by the Dutch Minerall men: the third is thought to be that, wherein, as Bede writeth, Saint Herbert lived an Heremeticall life. On the very skirt of this bot∣tome, in a pleasant soile compassed about with deawie hills; and fensed on the North side with that high mountaine Skiddaw,* 1.395 lieth Keswike, a little towne which King Edward the first made a mercate, by the procurement of S. Thomas of Derwent∣water [ D] Lord of the place, from whom it lineally descended to the family of the Ratcliffs: It was well knowne many yeeres agoe by reason of the mines of copper, as we may see in a certaine Charter of King Edward the fourth, and is at this day much inha∣bited by Minerall men, who have here their smelting house by Derwent side, which with his forcible streame, and their ingenuous inventions, serveth them in notable steed for easie bellowes workes, hammer workes, forge workes, and sawing of boords,* 1.396 not without admiration of such as behold it. As for that mountain Skiddaw aforesaid, it riseth up to such an height with two heads like unto Parnassus, and with a kind of emulation beholdeth Scruffel hill before it in Anandale within Scotland, that [ E] from these two mountaines, according as the mistie clouds arise or fall, the people there by dwelling, make their prognostication of the change of weather, and com∣monly sing this note.

If Skiddaw hath a cap, Scruffell wots full well of that.

Like as there goes also this usuall by-word concerning the heigth as well of this hill, as of other twaine in this tract.

[ F] Skiddaw, Lauuellin, and Castic and, Are the highest hills in all England.

From hence Derwent sometimes within a narrow channell, other whiles with a broader streame, speedeth him very fast Northward, to entertaine Cockar. Which when they meete, doe encompasse almost round about Cokarmouth a mercate

towne of good wealth, and a castle of the Earles of Northumberland. The towne is [ A] built faire enough, but standeth somewhat with the lowest betweene two hills: upon the one of which the Church is seated, and upon the other right over against it, a very strong castle, the gate whereof carrieth in the front the Armes of the Molions, Humfranvills, Lucies, & Percies. Opposite unto this, beyond the river two miles off, lieth the carcase of an ancient castle, called Papcastle, which by a num∣ber of monuments layeth claime to bee a Romane antiquitie: whether this were Guasmoric,* 1.397 which, as Ninnius writeth, King Vortigern built neere unto Luguballhia, and the Englishmen of old time called Palme-castle, I cannot so easily affirme. Where among many monuments of antiquitie, was found a broad vessell of a greenish stone, [ B] artificially engraven with little images: which whether it had bin a Laver to wash in, or a font, or as one calleth it, Sacrarium Regenerationis, for which purpose it serveth now at Brid-kirke, that is, at S. Brigids Church hard by, I dare not say. But I have read that Fonts were adorned with the pictures of holy men, to the end that such as were baptized might afterward have before their eies, whose deeds they were to imitate, as saith Pontius Paulinus.* 1.398 For in the first plantation of Christianitie among the Gen∣tiles, such onely as were of full age, after they were instructed in the Principles of Christian Religion, were admitted to Baptisme; and that but twice in the yeere, at Easter and Whitsontide,* 1.399 except upon urgent necessitie. At which times, they which were to be baptised were attired in white garments exorcised, and exsuffled, [ C] with sundrie ceremonies, which I leave to the learned in Christian antiquities: but this Font we speake of was thus inscribed.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 [ D] [ E]

But what they signifie, or what nations characters they should be, I know not, let the learned determine thereof. The first and eighth differ not much from that which in the time of the Emperour Constantine the great, Christians used for the name of Christ: the rest in forme, though not in sound, come very neere unto those which are seene in the tombe of Gormon, a King of the Danes, at Ielling in Denmark, the which Peter of Lindeberge did put forth, in the yeere 1591.

These places which erewhile I have named, together with a fourth part of the Ba∣ronie of Egremond, Wigton, Lewsewater, Aspatric, Uldal, &c. a right faire and goodly inheritance, Maud Lucie (who was the heire of Anthony Molton or de Lucie her bro∣ther) gave unto her husband Henry Percie Earle of Northumberland; and albeit she [ F] had no issue by him, yet made she the family of the Percies her heires, upon this con∣dition, That they should beare quarterly the Lucies Armes,* 1.400 sz. three* 1.401 Luces Argent in a shield Gueles, with their owne Armes: or that I may use the words of the originall, On condition, to give their own armes Gueles with three * 1.402 Luces Argent, together with

[ A] the Armes of Percy, Or, a Lion Azure quarterly; and the same condition by a fine le∣vied.

Afterwards Derwent having gathered his waters into one streame, entreth into the Ocean at Wirkinton, a place famous for taking of Salmons, and now the seat of the ancient family of the Curwens Knights,* 1.403 who fetch their discent from Gospatric Earle of Northumberland, and their sirname they tooke by covenant and compositi∣on from Culwen a family in Galloway, the heire whereof they had married; and here have they a stately house built Castle-like, and from whom (without offence or vanity be it spoken) my selfe am descended by the mothers side.

[ B] From hence some thinke there was a wall made to defend the shore in conveni∣ent places, for foure miles, or thereabout, by Stilico the potent Commander in the Roman state, what time as the Scots annoyed these coasts out of Ireland. For thus speaketh Britaine of her selfe, in Claudian.* 1.404

Me quo que vicinis pereuntem gentibus, in quit, Munivit Stilico, totam cùm Scotus Hibernem Movit, & infesto spumavit remige Thetis. And me likewise at hands (quoth she) to perish, through despight Of neighbour-Nations, Stilico fensed against their might, [ C] What time the Scots all Ireland mov'd offensive armes to take, &c.

There are also as yet, such continued ruines and broken walls to bee seene as farre as to Elne Mouth, which river holding no long course, hath at his spring head Ierby, a good big mercate towne standing upon it. I judge it to have beene that ARBEIA, where the Baccarii Tigrienses kept their standing guard: and at his mouth Elenbor∣rough, that is, the Burgh upon Elen, where the first band of the Dolmatians together with their Captaine in old time made their abode. The neere resemblance of the name Elenborough with OLENACUM, where the First Herculean Wing lay in Gar∣rison in the time of Theodosius the younger,* 1.405 is some motive to thinke that this was [ D] that OLENACUM, but yet I dare not affirme it. Seated it was upon the height of a hill, and hath a goodly prospect farre into the Irish sea: but now Corne growes where the towne stood; neverthelesse many expresse footings thereof are evidently to be seene: The ancient vaults stand open, and many altars, stones with inscripti∣ons, and Statues are here gotten out of the ground. Which I. Sinhous, a very ho∣nest man, in whose grounds they are digged up, keepeth charily, and hath placed or∣derly about his house. In the mids of his yard there standeth erected a most beauti∣full foure square Altar of a reddish stone, right artificially in antique worke engraven, [ E] five foot or thereabouts high, with an inscription therein of an excellent good let∣ter: but loe the thing it selfe all whole, and every side thereof, as the draught was most lively taken out by the hand of Sir Robert Cotton of Connington Knight, a sin∣gular lover of antiquity, what time as hee and I together, of an affectionate love to illustrate our native countrey, made a survey of these coasts, in the yeere of our re∣demption 1599. not without the sweet food and contentment of our mindes. And I cannot chuse but with thankfull heart remember that very good and worthy Gentle∣man; not only in this regard that most kindly he gave us right courteous and friendly entertainment, but also for that being himselfe well learned, he is a lover of ancient literature, and most diligently preserveth these inscriptions, which by others that are [ F] unskilfull and unlettered be straight waies defaced, broken, and converted to other u∣ses, to exceeding great prejudice and detriment of antiquity.

[illustration]

[ A] [ B] [ C] [ D] [ E] [ F]

[ A] In the inscription all is as plaine as may bee; onely in the last line save one (Et and AEDES) are read by implication of the letters: the last part being maimed, may haply be amended in this wife, DECURIONUM ORDINEM RESTITUIT, &c. These Decurions were in free townes (called Municipia) the same that Senators were in Rome and Colonies,* 1.406 so called, because they executed the office of Curiae, where∣upon they were named also Curiales, who had the ordering and managing of civill offices.

On the back-side of this Altar in the upper edge & border thereof, are read, as you see, these two words, VOLANTII VIVAS; which doe perplexe me, neither can I ex∣pound them, unlesse the Decurions, Gentlemen, and Commons (for of these three [ B] states consisted a Municipium, or free Corporation) added this as a well-wishing, and votive inscription unto G. Cornelius Peregrinus (who restored houses, habitati∣ons and Decurions) that so bounteous and beneficiall a man VOLANTII VIVE∣RET, that is, might live at Volantium. Hence I suppose, if conjecture may carrie it, that VOLANTIUM in times past was the name of the place.* 1.407 Underneath are engra∣ven instruments belonging to sacrifice, an Axe or Cleaver, and a chopping Knife. On the left side, a Mallet and a great Bason: in that on the right side, a platter, a dish, and a peare, if my sight serve mee well; or as others would have it, a drinking cup or jugge; for these were vessels pertaining to sacrifice: and others beside, as a Cruet, an Incense pan or Censer, a footlesse pot, the Priests miter, &c. which I have seene ex∣presly [ C] portraied upon the sides of other altars in this tract. The second Altar, which I have here adjoined, was digged up at Old Carlile, and is now to be seene in the Bar∣houses house at Ilkirk: an inscription it had with that intricate connexion of letters one in another, as the Graver hath here very lively portraied, and thus it seemeth they are to be read.

Iovi Optimo Maximo.* 1.408 Ala Augusta ob virtutem appellata, cui praest Publius Aelius, Publii filius Sergia Magnus de Mursa ex Pannonia inferiore Praefectus. Aproniano (& fortasse) Bradua Consulibus.

[ D] Unto most gracious and mightie Jupiter. The Wing named for their vertue Augusta, the Captaine whereof is Publius Aelius, sonne of Publius Magnus of Mursa, from out of the lower Pannonia, Praefect. When Apronianus, and (haply) Bradua were Consuls.

The third Altar, with an inscription to Belatucadrus the tutelar God of the place, is in this wise to be read.

Belatucadro Iulius Civilis Optio, id est, Excubiis Praefectus, votum solvit libens, merito. Unto Belatucadrus, Iulius-Civilis Opi••o, that is, Prefect over the watch and ward, hath [ E] performed his vow willingly and duly.

In the fourth Altar, which is of all the rest the fairest, there is no difficultie at all, and this is the tenour of it.

Diis, Deabus{que} Publius Posthumius Acilianus Praefectus Cohortis primae Delmatarum. To the Gods and Goddesses, Publius Posthumius Acilianus, Prefect or Captain of the first Cohort of the Dalmatians.

[ F] Such Altars as these (neither neede we think much to observe those ancient rites, which now long since the most sacred Christian religion hath chased away, and ba∣nished quite) they were wont to crowne with greene branches,* 1.409 like as they did the beasts for sacrifice, and themselves: and then they used with frankincense and wine to make supplication,* 1.410 to kill, and offer their sacrifices: yea, and their manner was to enhuile or anoint their very altars all over. Concerning the demolishing and over∣throw

of which, as Christian religion came in place and began to prevaile, Pruden∣tius [ A] the Christian Poet wrote thus.

Exercere manum non poenitet, & lapis illic Si stetit antiquus, quem cingere sueverat error Fasciolis, aut gallinae pulmone rigare, Frangitur.— Men thought not much their hands thus to employ, And if in place some antique stone there stood, Which folke were wont in errour, with much joy To garnish round with ribbands, and with blood Of Hens to imbrue, they brake it in that mood. [ B]

These inscriptions likewise hereunder I saw there.

* 1.411PROSA— ANTONINI AV-PII F— P. AVLVS P. F. PALATINA POSTHVMIVS ACILIANVS PRAEF. COH. I. DELMATAR. [ C]

* 1.412 D M INGENVI. AN. X. IVL. SIMPLEX PATER * 1.413 F C.

D M. MORI REGIS FILII HEREDES EIVS SVBSTITVE RVNT VIX. A. LXX.

HICEXSEGERE FATA —ENVS SC GERMA— —S REG VIX. AN— S VIX AN— —IX—

D M LVCA. VIX ANN. IS XX.

D M [ D] IVLIA MARTIM A. VIX. AN XII III D. XX. H.

There is a stone also here seene, workmanly cut, and erected for some victorie of the Emperours; in which two winged Genii hold up betweene them a guirland, as here is represented.

[illustration]

[ E] [ F]

[ A] That is, for the victorie of the Augusti (or Emperours) our Lords.

When the shore hath passed on right forward a little way from hence, it bend∣eth so backe againe with an arme of the sea retiring inward, that it may seeme to bee that MORICAMBE which Ptolomee setteth here,* 1.414 the nature of the place and the name doe so just agree. For a crooked creeke it is of salt water, and Moricambe in the British tongue signifieth a crooked sea. Hard by this, David the first King of Scots built the Abbey de Ulmo,* 1.415 commonly called Holme Cultrain: and the Abbots thereof erected Ulstey a fortresse neere unto it, for a treasurie and place of suretie to lay up their books, charters, and evidences, against the sodain invasions of the Scot∣tish: [ B] wherein the secrets workes, they say, of Michael the Scot, lie in conflict with mothes;* 1.416 which Michael professing here a religious life, was so wholly possessed with the studie of the Mathematicks and other abstruse arts, about the yeere of our Lord 1290. that being taken of the common people for a Necromancer, there went a name of him (such was their credulitie) that hee wrought divers wonders and mira∣cles. Beneath this Abbey, the brooke called Waver runneth into the said arme of the sea; which brook taketh into it the riveret Wiza, at the head whereof lye the ve∣ry bones and pitifull reliques of an ancient Citie: which sheweth unto us, that there is nothing upon earth, but the same is subject to mortalitie. The neighbours call it at this day Old Carlile. What name it had in old time I know not, unlesse it were [ C] CASTRA EXPLORATORUM,* 1.417 that is, The Espialls or Discoverers Castle. The distance put downe by Antonine (who doth not so much seeke after the shortest waies,* 1.418 as reckon up the places of greater note and name) as well from Bulgium as Lugo-vallum suiteth thereto verie aptly; the situation also to discover and descry afar off is passing fit and commodious: for seated it is upon the top of a good high hill, from whence a man may easily take a full view of all the country round about. How∣beit, most certaine it is that the wing of Horse-men, which for their valour was na∣med AUGUSTA,* 1.419 and AUGUSTA GORDIANA, kept resiance here in Gordian the Emperours time, as appeareth evidently by these inscriptions, which I saw hard by.

[ D]

* 1.420 I O M. ALA AUG. OB —RTUT. APPEL. CUI PRAEEST TIB. CL. TIB. F. P IN- G- N JUSTINUS PRAEF. * 1.421 FUSCIANO II SILANO II COS.

DM MABLI NIVSSEC VNDVS * 1.422 EQUIS ALE AUG STE STIP

[ E]

This votive altar also of a rude stone was erected for the happie health of the Em∣perour Gordian the third, and his wife Furia Sabina Tranquilla, and their whole fami∣ly, by the troup of horsemen surnamed Augusta Gordiana, when Aemilius Chrispinus a native of Africa governed the same under Nonnius Philippus Lievtenant generall of Britaine in the yeere of Christ 243. as appeareth by the Consuls therein specified.

[ F]

[ A] * 1.423 I O M PRO SALUTE IMPERATORIS M. ANTONI GORDIANI. P. F. INVICTI AUG ET SABINIAE TUR IAE TRANQUILE CONJUGI EJUS TO TA QUE DOMU DIVIN. EORUM A LA AUG. GORDIA. OB VIRTUTEM APPELLATA POSUIT: CUI PRAEEST AEMILIUS CRISPINUS PRAEF. [ B] EQQ. NATUS IN PRO AFRICA DE TUIDRO SUB CUR. NONNII PH LIPPI LEG- AUG. PROPRETO— ATTICO ET PRETEXTATO COSS.

From hence also were altars brought, which are erected in the high way by Wig∣ton,* 1.424 in the sides whereof are to bee seene a drinking cup or mazar, a footlesse pot, a [ C] mallet, a boll &c. all vessels appertaining to sacrifice. But time hath so worn out the letters, that nothing can be read. And not farre from hence just by the high street way there was digged up a long rude stone in manner of a columne which we saw at Thoresby,* 1.425 with this inscription, to the honour of Philip the Emperour and his sonne, who flourished about the yeere of our Lord 248.

IMP CAES. M. JUL PHILIPPO [ D] PIO FELI CI AUG ET M. JUL. PHI LIPPO NOBILIS SIMO CAES TR. P. COS—

[ E]

This also with others Oswald Dikes a learned minister of Gods word copied out for me, and now is to be seene in the house of T. Dikes Gentleman at Wardal.

DEO SANCTO BELA TUCADRO AURELIUS [ F] DIATOVA * 1.426 ARAE X VOTO POSUIT LL. MM.

[ A] Likewise another such like altar to a private tutelar God of the place, was there found, with this unperfect inscription.

DEO CE AIIO AUR M RTI. ET MS [ B] ERURACIO PRO SE ET SUIS. V.S. LL. M.

Besides an infinite number of pety images, statues of horsemen, Aegles, Lions, Ganimedes, and many other monuments of antiquity, which are daily discovered. [ C] Something higher a little promontory shooteth out,* 1.427 and a great frith or arme of the Sea lieth under it, being now the common limit confining England and Scot∣land, serving in times past to make a separation betweene the Romane Province, and the Picts.* 1.428 Upon this standeth that ancient town, BLATUM-BULGIUM (happily of Butch a Britaine word, that signifieth a separation) from which, as from the most remote place, and the limit of the Roman province, Antonine the Emperour begin∣neth his journies through Britaine.* 1.429 The inhabitants at this day call it Bulnesse: and as small a village as it is, yet hath it a pile, and in token of the antiquity thereof, be∣sides the tracts of streets, ruinous walls, and an haven now stopped up with mud; there led a paved high-way from hence along the sea-shore, as farre as to Elen Bor∣rough, [ D] if we may relie upon the report of the by-dwellers.

Beyond this a mile (as is to bee seene by the foundations at a nepe tide) beganne that WALL,* 1.430 the most renowned worke of the Romanes, which was the bound in times past of the Romane province; raised of purpose to seclude and keepe out the barbarous nations, that in this tract, were evermore barking and baying (as an anci∣ent writer saith) about the Roman Empire. I marvailed at first, why they built here so great fortifications,* 1.431 considering that for eight miles, or thereabout, there lieth oppo∣site a very great frith and arme of the sea: but now I understand, that at every ebbe the water is so low, that the borderers and beast-stealers may easily wade over. That the form of these shores hath bin changed, it doth evidently appeare by the tree roots [ E] covered over with sand a good way off from the shore, which oftentimes at a low ebbe are discovered with the windes.* 1.432 I know not whether I may relate here, which the inhabitants reported concerning trees without boughes under the ground, oftentimes found out here in the mosses, by the direction of dew in summer: for they have observed that the dew never standeth on that ground under which they lye.

By the same Frith, more within the land standeth Drumbough Castle, belong∣ing of later time to the Lords of Dacre, a station in times past of the Romans. Some will have it to have beene EXPLORATORUM CASTRA, notwithstanding the distance utterly controuleth it. There was also another station of the Romans beside it,* 1.433 which now being changed into a new name is called Burgh upon Sands: [ F] whence the territory adjoyning is named the Barony of Burgh, the which R. Meschines,* 1.434 Lord of Cumberland, gave unto Robert de Trivers: but from him it came to the Morvils: the last of which house, named Hugh, left behind him a daughter, who by her second husband, Thomas de Molton had issue Thomas Molton, Lord of this place: whose sonne Thomas, by marriage with the heire of Hubert de Vaulx adjoyned Gilles-land to his possessions:* 1.435 which in the end

were devolved all unto Ranulph Dacre, who married M. the heire of Moulton. [ A] But for no one thing was this little Burgh upon Sands more famous, than that King Edward the first,* 1.436 that triumphant Conquerour of his enemies, was here taken out of this world by untimely death. A right noble and worthy Prince, to whom God proportioned most princely presence and personage, as a right wor∣thy seat to entertaine so heroicall a minde. For hee not onely in regard of fortitude and wisedome, but also for a beautifull and a personall presence was in all points an∣swerable to the height of royall majesty: whom fortune also in the very prime and flowre of his age inured to many a warre, and exercised in most dangerous troubles of the State, whiles she framed and fitted him for the Empire of Britain: which he, being [ B] once crowned King, managed and governed in such wise, that having subdued the Welsh, and vanquished the Scots, hee may most justly bee counted the second or∣nament of Great Britaine.* 1.437 Under this Burgh, within the very Frith where the salt water ebbeth and floweth, the Englishmen and Scotish, by report of the inhabi∣tants, fought with their fleets at full Sea, and also with their horsemen and footmen at the ebbe. A thing which may seeme no lesse marvellous than that which Plinie hath reported, not without wonder, of the like place in Caramania. This arme of the sea both nations call Solway Frith, of Solway a towne in Scotland standing upon it.* 1.438 But Ptolomee more truely tearmeth it ITUNA: For Eden, that notable river, which wandreth through Westmorland, and the inner parts of this shire, powreth [ C] forth into it a mighty masse of water, having not yet forgotten what adoe it had to passe away struggling and wrestling as it did, among the carcasses of free-butters, ly∣ing dead in it on heapes, in the yeere of salvation 1216. when it swallowed them up loaden with booties out of England, and so buried that rabble of robbers under his waves.

This river Eden when it is entred into this shire, receiveth from the West the ri∣ver Eimot, flowing out of Ulse, a great lake heretofore mentioned: neer unto the bank whereof,* 1.439 hard by the riveret Dacor, standeth Dacre Castle, of signall note, for that it hath given sirname to the honourable family of the Barons Dacre; and mentioned anciently by Bede, for that it had a monastery in those dayes; as also by William of Malmesbury, in regard that Constantine King of Scots, and Eugenius or Ewain King [ D] of Cumberland, yeelded themselves there, together with their kingdomes, unto A∣thelstane King of England, upon condition to be protected by him.

Not much higher, and not farre from the confluence of Eimot and Loder, where is seene that round trench of earth, which the countrey people tearme Arthurs Table, stands Penrith, which is, if you interpret it out of the British language, The Red head or hill (for the soile, and the stones there are of a reddish colour:) but commonly cal∣led Perith: a little towne, and of indifferent trade, fortified on the West side with a castle of the Kings, which in the reigne of King Henry the sixth was repaired out of the ruines of a Romane fort thereby called Maburg, adorned with a proper Church: and the mercate place is large, with an edifice of timber therein, for the use of those [ E] that resort thither to mercate, garnished with Beares at a ragged staffe, which was the devise of the Earles of Warwicke. It belonged in times past unto the Bi∣shops of Durham: but when Antony Bec the Bishop, overweening himselfe with over much wealth, waxed proud and insolent, King Edward the first (as wee finde in Durham book) took from him Werk in Tividale, Perith, and the Church of Simond∣burne. But for the commodious use of this Towne,* 1.440 William Stricland, Bi∣shop of Carlile, descended from a worshipfull Family in this tract, at his owne charges caused a channell for a water-course to be made out of Petter-rill, that is, the little Petter,* 1.441 which neer unto the bank had Plumpton park, a very large plot of ground which the Kings of England allotted in old time for wild beasts, but King Henry [ F] the eighth disparked it, and wisely appointed it for habitation of men, as be∣ing in the very merches well neere, where the Realmes of England and Scot∣land confine one upon the other. Just by this place I saw many remaines of a decayed towne, which they there for the vicinity thereof, doe now call Old Perith:

[ A] I for my part would deeme it to be PETRIANAE.* 1.442 For the fragment of an antique inscription erected by ULPIUS TRAIANUS, EMERITUS an old discharged and pensionary souldier of the Petreian wing, doth convince and prove that the wing Petriana made abode here. But behold both it and others which wee copied out here.

— [ B] GADUNO ULP TRAI EM. AL. PET MARTIUS. * 1.443 F P. C.

D M. AICETU OS MATER VIXIT * 1.444 A XXXXV ET LATTIO FIL. VIX A XII. LIMISIUS CONJU. ET FILIAE PIENTISSIMIS POSUIT.

[ C] D M FL. MARITO SEN IN * 1.445 C. CARVETIOR QUESTORIO VIXIT AN XXXXV MARTIOLA FILIA ET HERES PONEN * 1.446 —CURAVIT.

[ D]

D M. CROTILO GERMANUS VIX ANIS XXVI. GRECA VIX ANIS IIII. VINDICIANUS * 1.447 FRA. ET FIL. TIT. PO.

[ E]

After that Eden hath now given Eimot entertainment, hee turneth his course Northward, by both the Salkelds, watering as hee goes obscure small villages, and fortresses. Amongst which at the lesse Salkeld, there bee erected in manner of a circle seventy seven stones, every one ten foot high, and a speciall one by it selfe before them, at the very entrance riseth fifteene foot in height. This stone the common people thereby dwelling, name Long Megge, like as the rest, her daugh∣ters. And within that ring or circle, are heapes of stones, under which, they say, lye covered the bodies of men slaine. And verily there is reason to thinke that this was a [ F] monument of some victory there atchieved, for no man would deeme that they were erected in vaine.

From thence passeth Eden by Kirk-Oswald,* 1.448 consecrated to Saint Oswald, the possession in old time of that Sir Hugh Morvill, who with his associates slew Tho∣mas Archbishop of Canterbury: and in memoriall of this fact, the sword which hee then used,* 1.449 was kept here a long time: and so goeth on by Armanthwayte, a Castle of the Skeltons, by Corby Castle; belonging to the worthy and ancient

family of the Salkelds,* 1.450 well advanced by marriage with the heire of Rosgill; by We∣therall, [ A] sometime a little Abbey or Cell, which acknowledged the Abbey of Saint Mary in Yorke for her mother; where within a rocke are to bee seene certaine lit∣tle habitations or cabbins hewed hollow for a place of sure refuge in this dangerous countrey.* 1.451 Thence by Warwic (VIROSIDUM, as I supposed) where the sixt Cohort of the Nervians in old time held their station within the limit of that Wall a∣gainst the Picts and Scots: and there in the latter age was built a very strong bridge of stone,* 1.452 at the charges of the Salkelds and Richmonds: by Linstock castle al∣so belonging to the Bishop of Carlile in the Barony of Crosby, which Waldeof, the sonne of Earle Gospatrick, Lord of Allerdale granted unto the church of Carlile. And [ B] now by this time Eden being ready to lodge himselfe in his owne arme of the sea, ta∣keth in two rivers at once, namely, Peterill & Caud, which keeping an equall distance asunder march along from the South, and hold as it were a parallel pace just toge∣ther. By Peterill, beside PETRIANAE, which I spake of, standeth Greistock, a castle be∣longing not long since to an honorable house, which derived their first descent from one Ranulph Fitz-Walter:* 1.453 of which line William, called de Greistock, wedded Mary a daughter and one of the coheires of Sir Roger Merley, Lord of Morpath: and hee had a sonne named John, who being childlesse, by licence of King Edward the first, conveighed his inheritance to Ralph Granthorpe, the sonne of William, and his Aunts sonne by the fathers side: whose male progeny flourished a long time in honor [ C] with the title of Lord Greistock, but about King Henry the seventh his dayes expired and came to an end, and so the inheritance came by marriage unto the Barons of Dacre: and the female heires generall of the last Baron Dacre, were married unto Philip Earle of Arundell, and Lord William Howard, sonnes of Thomas Howard, late Duke of Norfolke.

* 1.454Upon Caud, beside the coper mines neere unto Caudbeck, standeth Highgate, a ca∣stle of the Richmonds, of ancient descent, and a proper fine castle of the Bishops of Carlile,* 1.455 called the Rose castle: it seemeth also that CONGAVATA was hereabout, in which the second band of the Lergi served in garison: for Congavata in the British tongue signifieth, The valley by Gavata, which now is called short Caud. But the very place where this towne stood I cannot precisely point out. Betwixt the meeting of [ D] these rivers,* 1.456 the ancient City Carlile is passing commodiously and pleasantly seated, garded on the North side with the chanell of Eden, on the East with Peterill, on the West with Caud: and beside these naturall fenses it is fortified with strong walls of stone, with a castle and a citadell, as they tearme it. In fashion it lyeth somewhat long, running out from West to East: on the West side is the Castle of a good large compasse, which King Richard the third, as appeareth by his Armes, repaired. In the midst almost of the City, riseth on high the Cathedrall Church, the upper part whereof being the newer, is very artificially and curiously wrought: yet the nether part is much more ancient. But on the East side it is defended with the Citadel, that K. Henry the eighth built strongly with sundry bulwarks. The Romans and Britans [ E] called this city LUGU-VALLUM,* 1.457 and LUGU-BALLIUM, or LUGU-BALIA: the Eng∣lish Saxons, Luell, as Bede witnesseth: Ptolomee, as some think, LEUCOPIBIA. Nin∣nius, Caer Lualid: the ridiculous prophesies of the Britans, tearmed it The City of Du∣ball, we, Carlile, and Latine writers by a newer name, Carleolum. For our Historiogra∣phers accord with common consent, that Luguballia and Carleolum were the same. But in searching out the Etymology thereof, good God, how hath Leland bestirred him, being in the end driven to this point, that he thought verily Eden was called Lugus, and Ballum came from Vallis, that is, a vale, so that Lugu-ballum soundeth as much as the Vale by Lugus. But I, if so bee I may also hatch a conjecture, would rather suppose, but without prejudice, that the said termination Vallum and Vallia, [ F] are derived from that most famous military Vallum or Trench, that standeth appa∣rent a little from the City. For that Picts Wall, which was afterwards set upon the Trench, or rampire of Severus, appeareth somewhat beyond the River Eden, which now hath a woodden bridge over it, neere unto a little

[ A] village called Stanwicke, and went over the very river just against the Castle: where within the chanell of the river, mighty stones, the remaines thereof, are yet extant. Also Lugus or Lucus amongst the ancient Celis, or Gaules, who spake the same language that once the Britans did,* 1.458 signifieth a Tower, as we may learn by Pom∣ponius Mela. For that which in Antonine is named LUGO-AUGUSTI, hee cal∣leth TURRIM AUGUSTI, that is, The Tower of Augustus: so that Luga-Vallum is as much to say, as the Tower or Fort by the wall. From this originall if the Frenchmen had derived Lugudunum, as it were, The tower on an hill; and Lucotecia, (for so in old time they called that city which we do•• Lutetia) that is Paris,* 1.459 as it were, The faire [ B] Tower, (for so those words signifie in the British tongue) peradventure they had ai∣med neerer unto the marke, than in fetching the one from Lutum, that is, Dirt, and that other from Lugdus an imagined King. That this Carlile flourished in the time of the Romanes, divers tokens of antiquity now and then digged up there, and the famous mention of it in those dayes, doe sufficiently prove. After the furious outra∣ges also of the Picts and Scots were allayed, it retained some part still of the ancient dignity, and was counted a City. For in the yeere of Christ 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland passed a gift unto that holy Saint Cuthbert, in this forme, I have given unto him also the City called Luguballia, and ••5. miles round about it: at which time also it was walled strong. The Citizens, saith Bede, brought Cuthbert to see the [ C] walls of their City, and a fountain or Well in it, built in times past according to the won∣derfull workmanship of the Romanes: who at the very same time, as saith the book of Durham, ordained there a Covent of Nuns, with an Abbesse and Schooles. Afterwards being defaced and brought to exceeding ruin by the Danes, it lay about 200. yeeres buried under his owne ashes: untill it began againe to flourish under the govern∣ment and favour of King William Rufus, who repaired it with new edifices, built the Castle, and placed a Colony there first of Flemmings (whom streightwaies upon better advice he removed into Wales) but afterwards of Southerne Englishmen. Then was there seen, as William of Malmesbury writeth, A dining chamber after the Roman fashion, built of stone, & arched with vaults, so that no spitefull force of tempests, [ D] nor furious flame of fire could ever shake or hurt it: in the forefront whereof was this In∣scription, MARII VICTORIAE, that is, ••o the victory of Marius. This Marius some will needs have to be Arviragus the Britan: others, that Marius, who being proclai∣med Emperour against Gallienus, was named to bee of wonderfull strength, that as writers report of him, He had in his fingers no veines, but all sinewes. Yet have I lear∣ned, that another, making mention of this stone, saith it was not inscribed MARII VICTORIAE, but MARTI VICTORI, that is, To victorious Mars, which perhaps may better content some, and seeme to come nearer unto the truth. * 1.460 Carlile being now better peopled, and of greater resort, had, as they write, for Earle▪ or more truly for Lord thereof, Ralph * 1.461 Meschines; from whom came the Earles of Chester: and at [ E] the same time, being raised by King Henry the first to an Episcopall dignity, had Ar∣talph for the first Bishop. Which the Monks of Durham have written was prejudici∣all to their Church, when Ranulph (say they) Bishop of Durham was banished, and the Church had none to defend her, certain Bishops laid Carlile and Tividale to their Dioece∣ses. But how the Scotish under the reign of Stephen won this City, and King Henry the second recovered it: how also King Henry the third committed the castle of Car∣lile and the County to Robert Vipont: how likewise in the yeere 1292. it was burnt, together with the Cathedrall Church and the Suburbs: and how Robert Bri•• King of Scots, in the yeere 1315. land siege unto it in vaine, you may finde in the common Chronicles. And yet it seemes it would quit my paines to adjoyne here two inscrip∣tions [ F] that I saw here, the one in Thomas Aglion by his house, neere unto the Citadell, but made in the worse age.

[ A]

DIIS MANIBU SMARCI TROJANI AUGUSTINANI * 1.462 TUM. FA CIENDUM CUR A VIT AFEL. AMMILLUSIMA CONJUX * 1.463 KARISS.

[ B]

Whereunto is adjoined the image of a man of Armes on horsebacke, armed at all peeces, with a launce in his hand. As for the other, it standeth in the garden of Tho∣mas Middleton, in a very large and faire letter, thus.

LEG. VI VIC. P. F. [ C] G. P. R. F.

Which is, as I ghesse, Legio Sexta, Victrix, Pia, Felix: the rest let some other decipher.

* 1.464The onely Earle that Carlile had, was Sir Andrew de Harcla, whom King Edward [ D] the second created Earle (that I may speake out of the very originall instrument of his Creation) for his laudable & good service performed against Thomas Earle of Lan∣caster, and other his abetters, in vanquishing the Kings enemies and disloiall subjects, & in delivering them up into the Kings hands when they were vanquished, gi••t with a sword, and created Earle under the honour and name of the Earle of Carlile: Who notwith∣standing proved a wretched Traitour himselfe, unthankfull and disloyally false both to his Prince and country: and being afterwards apprehended, was with shame and reproach paied duly for the desert of his perfidious ingratitude, degraded in this ma∣ner: first by cutting off his spurres with an hatchet, afterwards disgirded of his mili∣tary * 1.465 Belt: then dispoiled of his shooes and gantlets: last of all, and was drawne [ E] hanged, beheaded, and quartered.

As for the position of Carlile, the Meridian is distant from the utmost line of the West 21. degrees and 31. minutes; and elevation of the North pole 54. degrees and 55. minutes: and so with these encomiasticall verses of M. I. Ionston, Ibid Carlile adue.

CARLEOLUM.

Romanis quondam statio tutissima signis, [ F] Ultima{que} Ausonidum meta, labos{que} Ducum Especula laiè vicinos prospicit agros, Hic ciet & pugnas, arcet & inde metus. Gens acri ingenio, studiis asperrima belli, Doctaque bellaci fig ere tela manu.

[ A] Scotorum Reges quondam tenuere beati, Nunc iterum priscis additur imperiis. Quid? Romane putas extrema hîc limina mundi? Mundum retrò alium surgere nonne vides? Sit vidisse satis; docuit nam Scotica virtus Immensis animis hîc posuisse modum.

CARLILE.

[ B] Unto the Romane legions sometimes the surest Station, The farthest bound and Captaines toile of that victorious nation. From prospect high, farre all abroad it lookes to neighbour fields: Hence fight and skirmish it maintaines, and thence all danger shields. People quicke witted, fierce in field, in martiall feats well seene, Expert likewise right skilfully to fight with weapons keene. Whilom the Kings of Scots it held, whiles their state stood upright, And once againe to ancient crowne it now reverts by right. What? Romane Cesar thinkest thou the world hath here an end? And seest thou not another world behind doth yet extend? [ C] Well maist thou see this and no more: for Scotish valour taught Such haughty mindes to gage themselves, and here to make default.

If you now crosse over the river Eden, you may see hard by the banke Rowcliffe, a little castle erected not long since by the Lords de Dacres for the defence of their Tenants. And above it the two rivers, Eske and Leven, running jointly together en∣ter at one out-gate into the Solway Frith. As for Eske, he rumbleth down out of Scot∣land, and for certaine miles together confesseth himselfe to bee within the English dominion, and entertaineth the river Kirsop, where the English and Scottish parted asunder of late, not by waters, but by mutuall feare one of another, having made [ D] passing good proofe on both sides of their great valour and prowesse. Neere this river Kirsop, where is now seene by Nether-By a little village with a few cotta∣ges in it, where are such strange and great ruines of an ancient City, and the name of Eske running before it doth sound so neare, that wee may imagine AESICA stood there: wherein the Tribune of the first band of the Astures kept watch and ward in old time against the Northren enemies. But now dwelleth here the chiefe of the Grayhams family,* 1.466 very famous among the Borderers for their martiall disposition: and in a wall of his house this Romane inscription is set up, in memoriall of Hadrian the Emperour, by the Legion surnamed Augusta Secunda.

[ E]

IMP. CAES. TRA. HADRIANO AUG. LEG. II. AUG. F.

[ F]

But where the River Lidd and Eske conjoine their streames,* 1.467 there was sometimes, as I have heard, Liddel castle, and the Barony of the Estotevils, who held lands in Cornage; which Earle Ranulph, as I read in an old Inquisition, gave unto Turgill Brun∣das: But from Estotevill it came hereditarily unto the Wakes, and by them unto the Earles of Kent of the blood roiall. And John Earle of Kent granted it unto King Ed∣ward the third, and King Richard the second, unto John of Gaunt Duke of Lanca∣ster.

Beyond this river Eske, the land for certaine miles together is accounted Eng∣lish [ A] ground:* 1.468 wherein Solom Mosse became very famous, by reason especially of so many of the Scottish Nobility taken there prisoners in the yeere 1543. What time as the Scottish resolute to set upon Sir Thomas Wharton, Lord warden of the English marches: so soone as they understood that their King had committed the command of the army to Oliver Sincler (whom they disdained) they conceived such in∣dignation thereat, that with their owne shame and losse, breaking their ar∣raies in tumultuous manner, they made a generall confusion of all: which the English beholding from the higher ground, forthwith charged violently upon them, and put them to flight: many they took prisoners, who flinging away their weapons, yeelded [ B] themselves, after some few souldiers on both sides slaine, into the hands of the Eng∣lish, and of the borderers. Presently whereupon James the fifth, King of Scots was so disjected, that weary of his life he died for very sorrow. The land thereabout is cal∣led Batable ground,* 1.469 as one would say, Litigious; because the English and the Scottish have litigiously contended about it. For the inhabitants on both sides, as borderers in all other parts, are a military kind of men, nimble, wily, alwaies in readines for any service,* 1.470 yea and by reason of often skirmishes, passing well experienced. Leven, the o∣ther river whereof I spake, springing in the limit just of both kingdomes, runneth by no memorable place, unlesse it be Beucastle (as they commonly call it) a Castle of the Kings, which standing in a wild and solitary country, hath beene defended onely by [ C] a ward of souldiers. But this in publicke records is written Bueth-castle, so that the name may seeme to have come from that Bueth, who about King Henry the first his dayes, after a sort ruled all in this tract. Certaine it is that in the reigne of Edward the third it was the patrimony of Sir John of Strivelin a Baron, who married the daughter and one of the heires of Adam of Swinborne. In the Church, now much de∣caied, there is layed for a grave-stone this old inscription, translated thither from some other place.

LEG. II. AUG. [ D] FECIT.

In the Church-yard there is erected a Crosse about 20. foot high, all of one en∣tire foure square stone, very artificially cut and engraven, but the letters are so worn and gone, that they cannot be read. But whereas the Crosse is chequy, in that manner as the shield of Armes belonging to the family of Vaulx, sometime Lords in this tract, we may well thinke that it was erected by them. [ E]

More into the South, and farther within the country lyeth the Barony of Gilles∣land; a little region so encombred, by reason of sudden rising brookes, which they call Gilles, that I would have deemed it tooke the name of them, had I not read in a booke, belonging to the Abbey of Lanercost, that one Gill Fitz-Bueth, who is called also Gilbert in a Charter of King Henry the second, held it as Lord in old time, of whom it is probable this name was rather given to it. Through this Gillesland, the wall of Severus, that most famous monument of all Britaine, runneth streight, as it were by a line,* 1.471 from Carlile Eastward, by Stanwicks, a little village; by Scalby castle, belonging in times past to the Tilliols (sometimes a name in this tract of good wor∣ship and reputation) from whom it came to the Pickerings; then Cambec, a small [ F] brooke runneth under the wall: Neere unto which the Barons of Dacre built Asker∣ton castle,* 1.472 a little pile, where the Governour of Gillesland, whom they call Land-Ser∣geant, had a ward. Beneath the wall it conjoyneth it selfe with the river Irthing, where standeth Irthington a chiefe Manour, as they tearme it, of this Barony of Gil∣lesland:

[ A] And great ruins are here to be seen at Castle-steed. Neere unto it, is Bramp∣ton a little mercate towne,* 1.473 which we suppose to bee BREMETURACUM, at the very line and range of the wall, for it is scarce a mile from the said wall: where in times past, lay the first Band of the Tungri out of Germanie in the declining state of the Romane Empire, and a company of Armaturae, under the generall of Britaine. These were horsemen armed at all peeces. But whether these Armatures were Duplar or Simplar,* 1.474 it is doubtfull. Duplar or Duple Armaturae they were called in those daies, who had double allowances of corne: Simplar, that had but single. Neither verily must I overpasse in silence, that hard by Brampton, there mounteth up an high hill, for∣tified [ B] in the verie top with a trench; they call it the Mote: from which there is a faire prospect every way into the country. Beneath this, and by Castle-steeds, like as at Trederman joining unto it, were found these inscriptions, exemplified for me by the hand of the right honourable Lord William Howard of Naworth, third sonne unto Thomas late Duke of Norfolke, a singular lover of venerable antiquitie, and learned withall, who in these parts in right of his wife, a sister and one of the heires of the last Lord Dacre, enjoieth faire possessions.

[ C] [ D] [ E]

[illustration]

This stone also was found there in an old Hot-house: wherein by ill fortune the [ F] name of the Emperours Lievtenant, and Propretour of Britaine is worne out.

[illustration]

[ A] [ B]

Neere to Brampton, Gelt a riveret runneth downe, by the banke whereof in a crag called Helbecke, are read these antiquities (wherein the words hang not well to∣gether) erected, as it seemeth, by a Lievtenant of the second Legion Augusta, under Agricola the Propraetour: and others beside, which the injurie of time hath envi∣ed us.

[ C]

* 1.475

[illustration]

[ D]

[ E]

In the same rocke these words also are read, written in a more moderne and newer letter.

OFFICIUM ROMANORUM.

This Gelt emptieth himselfe into the river Irthing, which with a swift and angry streame holdeth his course by Naworth Castle, belonging unto the Lord William [ F] Howard aforesaid, who now repaireth it: but lately to the Barons of Dacre, of whom when the last died in his tender yeeres, Leonard Dacre his Unkle, who chose rather to try the title of inheritance with his Prince by force of armes, than with his Nieces by wager of law, seized into his hands this Castle, and levied a band of rebels a∣gainst his Prince: whom the Lord of Hunsdon, with the garrison souldiers of Berwick

[ A] soone discomfited and put to flight: in which conflict many were slaine, but more ranne away, amongst whom Leonard himselfe escaped. But of him more in my Annales. Neerer unto the wall beyond the river Irthing, was lately found this faire votive altar, erected to the Goddesse Nymphe of the Brigantes, for the health of the Empresse Plautilla, wife to M. Aurelius Antoninus Severus, and the whole Imperiall family, by M. Cocceius Nigrinus a Treasurer to the Emperour, when Laetus was se∣cond time Consull, with intricate connexion of letters, which I read thus.

[ B]

DEAE NYMPHAE BRIGantum QUOD VOVERAT PRO SALUTE PLAUTILIAE COnjugis INVICTAE DO Mini NOSTRI INVICTI IMP. M. AURE Lii SEVERI ANTONINI PII. FE Licis C AE Saris AU Gusti TOTIUSQUEDO MUS DIVINAE EJUS M. COCCEIUS NIGRINUS [ C] Questor AU Gusti Numini DEVOTUS LIBENS SUSCEPTUM Solvit LAETO II.—* 1.476

Here by was the Priory of Lanercost, founded by R. de Vaulx, Lord of Gillesland: and hard by the wall Burd Oswald. Beneath which, where that Picts wall passed over the river Irthing by an arched bridge, was the station of the first band Aelia Dacica, or of the Dacians (the place is now named Willoford) which the booke of Notice of [ D] Provinces, and many altars bearing inscriptions to Iupiter Optimus Maximus, reared by that Cohort here, doe plentifully prove: Of which I thought good to adde these unto the rest, although time hath almost worne them out.

* 1.477 I. O. M. COH. I. AEL. DAC. CUI PRAE

[illustration]

IG

[illustration]

[ E]

I. O. M. OH. I. AEL. DA C.—C.—A. GETA IRELSAVRNES —

I. O. M. CoH. I. AEL. DAC. C. P. STATU LoN [ F] GINUS, TRIB.

PRO SALUTE D. N MAXjMIANO * 1.478FOR—CAE VA— OAED

LEG. VI [ A] VIC.P.F. F. [ B]

I. O. M. COHIAEL. DAC TETRICIANORO —C. P. LUTIC —V S. DESIG NATUS TRIB.

I.O.M. COH. I. AEL. DAC. GORD. ANA. C.P —EST [ C]

I. O. M. —H. I. AEL. DAC. —C.PRAEE SI.— [ D] —FLIUS FA —S TRIB.— —PETUO.— —COS.

* 1.479The first Lord of Gillesland, that hitherto I have read of, was William Mes∣chines, the brother of Ralph Lord of Cumberland (I meane not that William bro∣ther [ E] to Ranulph Earle of Chester, from whom came Ranulph de Ruelent, but the brother of Ralph) yet could hee never wrest it wholly out of the Scots hands: for Gill, the sonne of Bueth held the greatest part of it by force and armes. After his death, King Henry the second gave it to Hubert de Vaulx, or de Vallibus, whose shield of Armes was Chequy Or & Gueles. His sonne Robert founded and endowed the Priory of Lanercost. But the inheritance after a few yeeres was by marriage translated to the Moltons, and from them by a daughter to Ranulph Lord Dacre, whose line hath flourished unto our daies in very great honour. Having now in some sort surveied the maritime coasts, and more inward parts of Cumberland; the side that lieth more Easterly, being leane, hungry, and a wast, remaineth to bee viewed: [ F] and yet it sheweth nothing but the spring-head of South-Tine in a moorish place, and an ancient Romane high-way eight ells broad, paved with great stone (commonly called Mayden Way) which leadeth out of Westmorland;* 1.480 and where the riveret Alon, and the aforesaid South Tine meet together in one channell, by the side of an

[ A] hill of gentle descent, there remaine yet the footings of a very great and ancient towne: which was toward the North enclosed within a fourefold rampier, and Westward, with one and an halfe: the name of the place is now Whiteley Castle: and for to testifie the antiquity thereof, there remaineth this imperfect inscription, with letters inserted one in another, after a short and compendious manner of writing, whereby wee learne that the third Cohort of the Nervians erected there a Temple unto the Emperour Antonine, sonne of Severus.

[ B]

IMP. CAES. Lucii Septimi Severi Ara∣BICI, ADIABENICI, PARTHICI, MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici SARMA. NEP. DIVIANTONINI PII PRON. DIVI HADRIANI ABN. DIVI TRAIANI PARTH. ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI. M. AURELIO ANTONINO PIO FEL. AUG. GERMANICO PONT. MAX. TR. POT—X—IMP.—COS. IIII. P. p.— [ C] PRO PIETATE AEDE—VOTO— COMMUNI CURANTE— —LEGATO AUG. PR—COH. III. NERVIO— RVM—G.R.POS.

Whereas therefore the third Cohort of the Nervii served in this place, which Cohort the booke of Notices in a latter time placeth at ALIONE,* 1.481 or as Antonine [ D] nameth it ALONE, and the little river running underneath is named Alne: if I should thinke this were ALONE, it might seeme rather probable than true, considering the injury of devouring time, and the fury of enemies have long agoe outworne these matters out of all remembrance.

Albeit when the State of the Romane Empire decaied most in Britain, this country had been most grievously harried and spoiled by the Scots and Picts, yet it preserved and kept long the ancient and naturall inhabitants the Britans, and late it was ere it be∣came subject to the English Saxons. But when againe the English Saxons state, sore [ E] shaken by Danish warres,* 1.482 ran to ruine, it had peculiar Governors, called Kings of Cumberland, unto the yeere of our Lord 946. at what time, as the * 1.483 Floure-gatherer of Westminster saith, King Edmund, by the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-wales, wa∣sted and spoiled all Cumberland, and having put out the eyes of both the sonnes of Dun∣mail King of the same Province, hee granted that kingdome unto Malcolme King of Scots, to be holden of him, that he might defend the North parts of England by land and sea from the inrodes and invasions of the common enemies.* 1.484 Whereupon the eldest sons of the Kings of Scotland were for a while under the English Saxons, and Danes both, called the Prefects, or Deputy Rulers of Cumberland. But when England had yeelded it selfe into the hands of the Normans, this part also became subject [ F] unto them; and fell unto the lot of Ralph de Meschines, whose eldest sonne Ranulph, was Lord of Cumberland, and partly in his mothers right, and partly by his Princes favour together, Earle also of Chester. But King Stephen, to purchase favour with the Scots, restored it unto them againe, that they should hold it of him and the Kings of England. Howbeit K. Henry the second, who succeeded after him, per∣ceiving that this over great liberality of Stephen was prejudiciall both to himself and his realme, demanded againe of the Scot Northumberland, Cumberland, and West∣morland: And the K. of Scots (as Newbrigensis writeth) wisely considering that the King

of England had in those parts both the better right and also greater power, although he [ A] might have pretended the oath, which he was said to have made unto his grandfather Da∣vid, what time hee was knighted by him: yet restored he the foresaid marches, according to his demand, fully and wholly, and received of him againe the Earledome of Hunting∣don, which by ancient right appertained to him.

* 1.485As for Earles of Cumberland, there were none before the time of King Henry the eighth, who created Henry Lord Clifford (who derived his pedigree from the Lords Vipont) the first Earle of Cumberland: who of Margaret, the daughter of Henry Per∣cy Earle of Northumberland, begat Henry the second Earle: hee by his first wife, daughter to Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, had issue Margaret Countesse of Der∣by; [ B] and by a second wife, the daughter of Lord Dacre of Gillesland, two sonnes, George and Francis: George the third Earle, renowned for sea-service, armed with an able body to endure travaile, and a valorous minde to undertake dangers, died in the yeere 1605. leaving one onely daughter, the Lady Anne, now Countesse of Dorset. But his brother, Sir Francis Clifford, succeeded in the Earledome; a man whose ardent and honorable affection to vertue, is answerable in all points to his ho∣nourable parentage.

As for the Wardens of the West-marches against Scotland in this County, which were Noblemen of especiall trust, I need to say nothing, when as by the union of both kingdomes under one head, that office is now determined. [ C]

This shire reckoneth beside chappels, 58. Parish Churches. [ D]

[ E] [ F]

[ A]

VALLUM, SIVE MURUS PICTICUS: That is, [ B] THE PICTS VVALL▪

THrough the high part of Cumberland shooteth that most fa∣mous Wall (in no case to be passed over in silence) the limit of the Roman Province,* 1.486 the Barbarian Rampier, the Forefence and Enclosure, for so the ancient writers termed it, being called in Dion 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, a crosse Wall; in Herodian, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, a Trench or Fosse cast up; by Antonine, Cassiodore, and o∣thers, VALLUM, that is, the Rampier; by Bede, MURUS, [ C] that is, the Wall; by the Britans, Gual-Sever, Gal-Sever, Bal, Val, and Mur-Sever; by the Scottish, Scottishwaith; by the English, and those that dwell thereabout,* 1.487 the Picts Wall, or the Pehits Wall, the Keepe Wall, and simply by way of excellencie, The Wall.

When the ambitious and valiant Romans,* 1.488 finding by the guidance of God and as∣sistance of vertue, their successe in all their affaires above their wishes, had enlarged their Empire every way, so as that the very unwealdinesse thereof began now to be of it selfe fearefully suspected; their Emperours thought it their best and safest policie to limit and containe the same within certaine bounds: for in wisedome they saw, That in all greatnesse there ought to be a meane, like as the heaven in selfe reacheth [ D] not beyond the limited compasse, and the seas are tossed to and fro within their owne pre∣cincts. Now those limits or bounds, according to the natures of the places, were ei∣ther naturall, as the sea, greater rivers, mountaines, wasts and desart grounds; or arti∣ficiall, as frontier-fenses, namely trenches or dikes, castles, keeps or fortresses, wards, mounds, and baricadoes by trees cut downe and plashed, bankes, rampiers and walls: along which were planted garrisons of souldiers against the barbarous nations confi∣ning. Whence it is that we read thus in the Novellae of Theodosius the Emperour,* 1.489 Whatsoever lieth included within the power and regiment of the Romans, is by the appoint∣ment and dispose of our Ancestors defended from the incursions of Barbarians with the rampier of a Limit.* 1.490 Along these limits or borders souldiers lay garrisoned in time of [ E] peace within frontier-castles and cities: but when there was any feare of waste and spoile from bordering nations,* 1.491 some of them had their field-stations within the Bar∣barian ground, for defence of the lands: others made out-rodes into the enemies mar∣ches, to discover how the enemies stirred; yea, and if good occasion were offered, to encounter with them before they came to the Limits.

In this Iland the Romans,* 1.492 when they perceived that the farther parts of Britaine lying North were cold, and a rough barren soile, and inhabited by the Caledonian Britans and barbarous nations, in subduing whereof they were sure to take much paines, and reape very small profit, built at sundry times divers fore-fenses, as well to bound, as to defend the Province.* 1.493 The first of these seemeth to have beene made by [ F] Iulius Agricola, when he fortified with holds and garrisons that narrow space of ground that lieth betweene Edenborrough Frith and Dunbretten Frith, which after∣wards was eftsoones strengthened.

When TERMINUS the god of bounds,* 1.494 who would not give place to Jupiter him∣selfe, was so enforced to yeeld to Hadrian the Emperour, that he withdrew the Limit of the Roman Empire in the East to the river Euphrates,* 1.495 whether for envie to Trajans

glorie, under whom the Empire extended furthest, or for feare; he likewise withdrew [ A] the limits fourescore miles, or thereabout, within this Iland, to the river Tine, and there made the second fore-fence. He, saith Spartianus, brought a wall on for foure∣score miles in length (which should divide the Barbarians and the Romans asunder) raised with great stakes or piles pitched deep in the ground, and fastned together in maner of a murall or military mound for defence, as may be gathered out of that which followeth in Spartianus. And this is that fore-fense wherewith we are now in hand: for it go∣eth out in length Lxxx. Italian miles. About which were PONS AELIUS, CLASSIS AELIA, COHORS AELIA, ALA SABINIANA, which tooke their names from Aelius Hadrianus and Sabina his wife. And that Scottish Historiographer who wrote The wheele of Times,* 1.496 writeth thus, Hadrian was the first of all that made a rampier or wall [ B] of a huge and wonderfull bignesse, like unto a mountaine, all of turfes digged out of the ground, with a ditch lying to it afront from the mouth of Tine unto the river Eske, that is, from the German Sea unto the Irish Ocean; which Hector Boetius accordingly wit∣nesseth in the same words.

* 1.497Lollius Urbicus, Lievtenant of Britain under the Emperour Antoninus Pius, by his fortunate fights did enlarge the bounds againe as farre as to that first frontier fense that was made by Iulius Agricola, and even there raised up a third fense with a wall. He, saith Capitolinus, vanquished the Britans, and having driven out the Barbarians, made another wall of turfes beyond that of Hadrianus. The honour of which war hap∣pily dispatched and finished in Britain, Fronto, as the Panegyricall Orator saith, ascri∣bed [ C] unto Antonine the Emperour, and hath testified that he, although sitting still at home in the very Palace of Rome, had given charge and commission to another Generall for the war, yet like unto the Pilot of a Galley sitting at the sterne, and guiding the helme, deserved the glorie of the whole voiage and expedition. But that this Wall of Antoninus Pius, and of his Lievtenant Lollius Urbicus, was in Scotland, shalbe proved hereafter.

* 1.498When the Caledonian Britans, whiles Commodus was Emperor, had broken through this wall, Severus, neglecting that farre and huge big Countrey, made a fortification crosse over the Iland from Solway Frith to Tinmouth, in that very place (if I have any judgement) where Hadrian made his wall of stakes and piles: and of mine opinion is [ D] Hector Boetius: Severus, saith he, commanded Hadrians wall to be repaired with Bul∣warks of stone and Turrets, placed in such convenient distance, as that the sound of a trum∣pet, though against the wind, might be heard from the one unto the other. And in another place, Our Chronicles report, that the wall begun by Hadrian was finished by Severus. Also Hierom Surita, a most learned Spaniard, who writeth, That the Fense of Hadrian was extended farther by Sept. Severus with great fortifications, by the name of Vallum. Semblably, Guidus Paucirolus, who affirmeth, that Severus did but re-edifie and re∣paire the wall of Hadrian being falne downe. He, saith Spartianus, fensed Britain (which is one of the chiefe acts recorded in his time) by erecting up a wall overthwart the Iland, to the bound of the Ocean on both sides the Ile: whereupon he got the title of BRITANNI∣CUS. After he had driven out the enemies, as saith Aurelius Victor, he fensed Britaine [ E] so far forth as it was commodious unto him, &c. As also Spartianus: Againe Eutropius, To the end that he might for••ifie with all safety and security the Provinces which he had recovered, he made a wall for 35. or rather more truely, 80. miles in length, even from sea to sea: That part of the Iland which he had recovered, as Orosius writeth, he thought good to sever from other untamed Nations by a rampier or wall: and therefore he cast a great ditch, and raised a most strong wall, fortified with many turrets for the space of an hundred and twenty two miles, from sea to sea: with whom Bede agreeth, who will not willingly heare that Severus made a wall; for that he laboureth to prove that a wall is made of stone, and a rampier, named Vallum, of stakes or piles that be called Valli, [ F] and of turfes (whereas in very truth Vallum and Murus,* 1.499 that is, a wall, be indifferent∣ly used on for another.) And yet Spartianus called it Murus, that is a wall, and should seeme to shew that he made both a wall and a trench, by these words, Post murum a∣pud vallum in Britannia missum, &c.

Howbeit, we gather out of Bede, that the said Vallum or Rampier was no∣thing

[ A] else but a wall of turfes: and no man can truely say that the wall of Severus was built of stone.* 1.500 But have here the very words of Bede himselfe: Severus having gotten the victorie in civill wars at home, which had fallen out to be very dangerous, was drawne into Britain upon generall revolt almost of all the allies there. Where, after great and sore battells many times fought, when he had regain'd part of the Iland, he thought good to have the same divided from other wild and untamed nations, not with a wall, as some thinke, but with a rampier: for a wall is made of stones, but a rampier whereby Camps are fortified to repell the force of enemies, is made of turfes cut out of the earth round about, but raised high in maner of a wall above ground; so that there be a ditch or [ B] trench afront it, whereout the turfes were gotten, upon which are pitched piles of very strong timber. And so Severus cast a great ditch, and raised a most strong rampier, streng∣thened with many turrets thereupon, from sea to sea. Neither is it knowne by any other name in Antonine, or the Notice of Provinces, than by Vallum, that is, a Rampier, and is in the British tongue termed Gual-Sever. Hereto we may annexe the authoritie also of Ethelward our ancientest writer next unto Bede; who, as touching Severus, hath these words, He did cast a ditch or trench crosse over the Iland, from sea to sea; within it also he built a wall with turrets and bulwarkes. Which afterwards he calleth Fossam Severiam, that is, Severs fosse or ditch: like as we read in the most ancient Annales of the English-Saxons, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Se∣verus [ C] foregirded and fenced Britain with a ditch from sea to sea. And other later wri∣ters in this wise, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Severus in Britain made and finished a wall of turfes, or a rampier from sea to sea. Wil∣liam of Malmesburie likewise nameth it a famous and most notorious trench. In which very place, two hundred yeeres after, or much thereabout, a wall of stone was set up, whereof I am to speake anon.

Whereas Eutropius hath set downe the length of it to be 35. miles, Victor 32. and other Authors 132. I suppose some faults have crept into the numbers. For the Iland is not so broad in that place, although a man should take the measure of the wall as it stood winding in and out, rising also and falling here and there. Nay, if one should [ D] reduce it into Italian miles, he should find little above fourescore, as Spartianus hath truely reckoned them. Some few yeeres after, this Munition, as it seemes, was forlet. Howbeit,* 1.501 when Alexander Severus the Emperour, as we read in Lampridius, had once given unto the Captaines and souldiers of the marches, those grounds and lands which were won from the enemies, so that they should be their proprietie, if their heires served as souldiers, and that they should never returne to any private men; supposing they would goe to the wars more willingly, and take the better care, if they should defend their owne pecu∣liar possessions. Note these words well I pray you: for hence may be deduced ei∣ther a kind of Feudum, or the beginning of Feuds. After this the Romans marching beyond the wall, and building themselves stations within the out-land and barbarian [ E] soile, fortifying also and furnishing them accordingly, enlarged the limits of the Ro∣man Empire againe as farre as to Edenborough Frith. Neverthelesse, the savage and barbarous people, never ceasing to assaile them upon advantages, drave them backe now and then as farre as to Severus Trench.

Dioclesian the Emperour had a provident eye to these limits, under whom when as the whole command in Britaine was committed unto Carausius, for that he was re∣puted the fitter man to warre against these warlike nations, he did set up againe the fore-fense betweene Dunbritton Frith and Edenborough Frith, as I will shew in place convenient. The first that ever had blame for neglecting these limits was Constan∣tine the Great: for thus writeth Zosimus, Whereas the Roman Empire by the provi∣dence [ F] of Dioclesian was in the utmost marches thereof every where surely fensed with Townes, Castles, and Burghs, and all their military companies made their abode in them, it was impossible for the barbarous nations to passe in, but they were so met withall at eve∣ry turne by forces there set to repell them backe. Constantine abolishing this munition of Garrisons, placed the greater part of the souldiers, whom hee had removed from out of the marches, in townes that had no need of Garrisons and defence. So hee

left the marches open to the inrodes of barbarous nations, without garrisons, and pestered [ A] the Cities that were at peace and quiet with a sort of souldiers, whereby most of them are now already become desolate, and the souldiers themselves, addicted to Theatricall sports and pleasures, grew by his meanes deboshed. To conclude, and simply to speake in one word, he it was that gave the first cause and beginning that the state of the Empire run∣neth to wrecke and ruine.

* 1.502The Countrey that lay betweene these enclosures or fore-fenses, Teodosius father unto Theodosius the Emperour recovered: he re-edified and repaired the Cities, strengthened the garrison castles and the limits with such watch, and ward, and forti∣cations, yea and when he had recovered the Province, restored it to the ancient e∣state, [ B] in such wise, as that it had a lawfull Governour by it selfe, and was afterward in honour of Valentinian the Emperour called VALENTIA. Theodosius also his sonne, having now by his own vertue attained unto the Imperiall Majestie, had a provident care of these limits, and gave commandement that the * 1.503 Master of the Offices should yeere by yeer give advice and advertisement unto the Emperour how all things went with the souldiers, and in what sort the charge of castles, holds, and fore-fenses was performed. But when the Roman Empire began once to decay apparently, and the Picts, together with the Scots, breaking through the wall of Turfes by Edenborrow-frith, cruelly wasted and over-ranne these parts, the Roman legion sent to aid the Bri∣tans under the leading of Gallio of Ravenna, after they had driven away and quite [ C] removed the Barbarians, being now called backe againe for the defence of France, exhorted the Britans (these be the very words of Gildas and Bede) to make a wall over∣thwart the Iland between the two seas,* 1.504 which might serve for a defence to keep off the ene∣mies, and so returned home with great triumph. But the Ilanders fall to building of a wall as they were willed, not so much with stone as with turfes, considering they had no work∣man to bring up so great a piece of work, and so they did set up one good for nothing. Which, as Gildas saith, being made by the rude and unskilfull common multitude, without any one to give direction, not so much of stone as of turfe, served them in no stead. As touching the place where this wall was made, Bede proceedeth to write in this maner: They rai∣sed it betweene the two friths or armes of the sea, for the space of many miles, that where the fense of water failed, there by the help of a rampier they might defend the borders [ D] from the invasion of enemies. And such a fore-fense, reaching a great length, secured Assyria from the inrodes of forraine nations, as Ammianus Marcellinus writeth. And the Seres at this day, as we read in Osorius, fortifie their vales and plaine champion with walls, that they might thereby shelter and defend themselves from the violent incursions of the Scythians. Of which worke there made (saith Bede) that is to say, of a most broad and high rampier, a man may see the expresse and certaine remaines to this day: which beginneth almost two miles from a Monastery called Abercurving, Eastward, at a place named in the Picts language Penvahel, in the English tongue Penveltun, and reaching Westward, endeth neere the Citie Alcluid. But the former enemies no sooner per∣ceived that the Roman souldiers were returned, but presently sailing thither by water, [ E] breake through the bounds into the marches, kill and slay all before them, and whatever stood in their way, they went downe with it under foot, they over-trample it, as if it had bin standing corne ready for harvest. Whereupon Embassadours were dispatched againe to Rome, making piteous moan, and with teares craving aide, that their miserable countrey might not utterly be destroyed, nor the name of a Roman Province, which had so long time flourished among them, waxe contemptible, being now overwhelmed with the outrage of strange nations.* 1.505 Hereupon a Legion was sent over, which being arrived unlooked for to∣ward Winter, made great slaughter of the enemies: as for the rest that were able to shift away and escape, they drave beyond the seas, who before time made it a practice every [ F] yeere, while no souldiers made head against them, to passe over the said seas, and raise booties. Now by this time the Romans were retired backe unto the Wall or Ram∣pier of Severus,* 1.506 and Perlineam Valli (as the booke of Notices termeth it, which was written toward the later end of Theodosius the younger his reigne) that is on both sides as well within as without the wall, they kept a standing watch and ward

[ A] in their severall Stations appointed,* 1.507 namely five wings of Horsemen with their Cap∣taines, 15. Cohorts of footmen with their Colonels, one band, and likewise one squadron; which I have mentioned and will againe in due place. As touching the time immediatly ensuing, Bede goeth forward to relate in these words. Then the Ro∣mans denounced unto the Britans, that they could endure no longer to be out-toyled and wearied with such painfull voiages and expeditions for defence of them, advising them to take weapon in hand themselves, and endevour to fight with the enemy, who could not by any meanes be stronger than themselves, unlesse they would give way to idlenesse, and become feeble therewith: Moreover, the Romans, because they thought this also might [ B] serve their allies in some stead, whom they were forced to leave, placed a wall of strong stone from sea to sea, directly betweene the Cities, which had beene built there for feare of the enemies (where Severus also in times past had made a rampire.) Here will I also put downe the words of Gildas, from whom Bede borrowed all this. The Romans di∣rectly levell a wall after their usuall maner of building, not like unto the other, at the com∣mon and private charges, adjoining unto them the poore & miserable naturall home born inhabitants, from sea to sea betwixt the cities, which chanced to have beene placed there for feare of the enemies. And now heare what Bede saith againe: Which wall, that hath beene hitherto famous and conspicuous, they with publicke and private cost, having with them the Britans helping hand also, built eight foot broad and twelve foot high, in a di∣rect line from East forward to West, as is evident even at this day to the beholders. Out [ C] of which words of Bede you may see that a great learned man, whiles he thinketh to hit the bird in the eye, hath missed the marke, straining and striving mightily to prove against Boetius and other Scottish writers, that Severus his wall of turfe was in Scotland. Doth not Bede write in plaine tearmes, after hee had spoken of the Earth-wall at Abercuruing in Scotland, that a wall was reared of strong stone where Severus had made his of turfe? and where I pray is that wall of stone but in this place, betweene Tine-mouth and Solwey frith? where was then that wall of Seve∣rus? As for the wall, there are yet such expresse tokens of it in this place, that you may tracke it as it were all the way it went: and in the * 1.508 Wasts, as they tearme them, I [ D] my selfe have beheld with my owne eyes on either side, huge peeces thereof stan∣ding for a great way together, only wanting their battlements.

Verily I have ••eene the tract of it over the high pitches and steepe descents of hills, wonderfully rising and falling: and where the fields lye more plaine and open, a broad and deepe ditch without, just before it, which now in many places is groun∣ded up: and within a banke or military high-way, but in most places interrupted. It had many towres or fortresses, about a mile distant from another, which they call Castle-steeds; and more within little fensed townes, tearmed in these dayes Chesters, [ E] the plots or ground workes whereof are to be seene in some places foure square: al∣so turrets standing betweene these, wherein souldiers being placed might discover the enemies, and be ready to set upon them: wherein also the Areani might have their Stations, whom the foresaid Theodosius, after they were convicted of falshood, displaced and removed from their Stations.* 1.509 These Areani (as Marcellinus saith) were a kinde of men ordained in old time, whose office it was to runne a great way too and fro from place to place, to intimate or give intelligence unto our Leaders what stirre and noise there was abroad among the neighbour nations. So that the first founders of this wall may seeme to have beene directed by his counsell, who wrote unto Theodosius and his sonnes as touching military affaires in this manner. Among the commodities of [ F] State and Weale publike, right behovefull is the care concerning the limits, which in all places doe guard and enclose the sides of the Empire: The defence whereof may bee best assured by certain castles built neare together, so that they be erected with a steedy wall & strong towres a mile asunder one from another: Which munitions verily the Land-lords ought to arreare without the publicke charge, by a distribution of that care among them∣selves, for to keep watch and ward in them and in the field forefences, that the peace and quiet of the Provinces being guarded round about therewith, as with a girdle of defence, may rest safe and secure from hurt and harme.

The dwellers hereabout talke much of a brasen trunke (whereof they found pee∣ces [ A] now and then) that set and fitted in the wall artificially, ranne betweene every Fortresse and Towre, so as that if any one in what towre soever, conveyed the watchword into it, the sound would have beene carried straightwaies without any stay to the next, then to the third, and so to them all one after another, and all to sig∣nifie at what place the assault of the enemy was feared. The like miraculous device of the Towres in Bizantium, Xiphiline relateth out of Dion in the life of Severus. But since the wall now lies along, and no pipe remaineth there, many tenants hold farmes and lands of our Kings here round about in Cornage,* 1.510 as our Lawyers speake: that is, that they should give knowledge unto their neighbours of the enemies approaching, [ B] by winding of an horne: which some thinke, had the first originall from an ancient custome of the Romans: who also were bound to goe by the Kings precept in the army and service for Scotland (these be the words of the Record) as they marched forth in the Vantward, as they returned home in the Rereward.

But that I may follow the tract of this wall more directly in particular, it begin∣neth at the Irish sea, hard by BLATUM BULGIUM or Bulnesse, and goeth on along the side of Solway frith, and so by Burgh upon Sands unto LUGU-VALLUM or Carlile, where it passeth over Eden. From thence it runneth forth, and hath the river Irthing beneath it, crossing over Camberke, a little brooke running crooked with many tur∣nings in and out, where are great tokens to be seene of a fortification. After this ha∣ving [ C] cut over the rivers Irthing and Poltrosse, it entreth into Northumberland, and among the mountaines hudled together, goeth along by the side of the river which they call South-Tine without any interruption (save only that it is divided by North-Tine, where in ancient time there was a bridge over it) as farre as to the German O∣cean: as I will shew in due place when I am come once into Northumberland.

Yet this admirable worke could not avert and keepe out the tempestuous stormes of forraine enemies: But when the Romane armies were retired out of Britaine, the Picts and Scots assaulting the wall upon the sudden with their engines and hooked weapons, pluckt and puld downe the garrison souldiers, brake through the fence, and overranne Britaine far and neere, being then disarmed and shaken with civill broiles, [ D] and most miserably afflicted with extreme famine. But the most wofull and lamen∣table misery of these heavie times, Gildas a Britan, who lived not long after, pensil∣leth out lively in these words. As the Romans were returning homeward, there appear striving who could come first out of their Caroches,* 1.511 in which they had passed over the vale * 1.512 Stitica, like unto duskish swarmes of wormes, comming forth of their little caves, with most narrow holes at noone day in summer, and when the heat of he sunne is at the highest, a rabble of Scots and Picts, in maners partly different, but in one and the same greedy designe of bloodshed: And having knowledge once that our friends and associates were re∣tired home, and had denied ever to returne again, they with greater confidence and bold∣nesse than before time attempt to possesse themselves of all the North side, and the utmost [ E] part of the land from out of the Inlanders hands, as far as to the very wall. Against these invasions there stands placed on high in a Keepe, a lasie crew, unable to fight, unfit (God he knowes) for service, trembling and quaking at the heart, which night and day sate still as benummed, and stirred not abroad. Mean while the hooked engines of their naked and bareshanked enemies cease not, wherewith the most miserable inhabitants were plucked downe from the walls, and dashed against the hard ground. This good yet did such an un∣timely death unto those that thus lost their lives, that by so quicke a dispatch and end, they were freed from the view of most piteous paines and imminent afflictions of their brethren and children. What should I say more? when they had left the Cities and high wall, they were againe driven to flye and hide themselves; and being thus dispersed, in more despe∣rate [ F] case they were than they had been before. The enemies likewise presse still sorer upon them, and semblably hasten bloody carnage and slaughters one in the necke of another. And even as lambs are torn in pieces by butchers, so are these lamentable inhabitants by the enemies; insomuch as their abode and continuance together might be well compared to wild beasts. For both they preyed one upon another, and by robbing also forbare not

[ A] the short pittance of food that the poorer sort of the inhabitants had for their owne small sustentation: & also these outward calamities were encreased with domesticall commoti∣ons, so that by reason of so great robbing, pilling, and spoiling, the whole countrey wanted the stay of all kind of food, save onely that which they got by hunting, to comfort their poor pining bodies.

But this is worth the observation,* 1.513 that as by the wisdome of the Romans this wall was so built, that it had two very great rivers neere to it on the inner side (as it were) for another defence, namely, Tine and Irthing, that are divided one from the other with a very narrow parcell of ground: So on the other side the barbarous people [ B] were so cunning, that in the same place especially they made their first entrance be∣twixt these rivers, where they might have free passage farther into the heart of the Province, without hinderance of any river: according as we will shew by and by in Northumberland. The fabulous tales of the common people concerning this wall, I doe wittingly and willingly overpasse. Yet this one thing, which I was enformed of by men of good credit, I will not conceale from the Reader. There continueth a set∣led perswasion among a great part of the people thereabout, and the same received by tradition,* 1.514 That the Roman souldiers of the marches did plant here every where in old time for their use certaine medicinable hearbs, for to cure wounds: whence it is that some Emperick practitioners of Chirurgery in Scotland, flock hither every [ C] yeere in the beginning of summer, to gather such Simples and wound-herbes; the vertue whereof they highly commend as found by long experience, and to be of sin∣gular efficacy.

[ D] [ E] [ F]

Notes

• * 1.1

  Brigantes whereof they tooke name.
• * 1.2

  See Pasquier i•• Les Recherche de France. lib. cap. 40.
• * 1.3

  Reinerus Rei∣necciu••.
• * 1.4

  Yet are they in Ireland called Brigantes in some Copies.
• * 1.5

  Cartismandu••. Tacitus.
• * 1.6

  The putting of one time for another.
• * 1.7

  A place in Ta∣citus corrected.
• * 1.8

  Maldon.
• * 1.9

  Humber.
• * 1.10

  First called Ure and Your West-Riding.
• * 1.11

  The river Do••
• * 1.12

  Wortley.
• * 1.13

  Wentworth.
• * 1.14

  Sheafield.
• * 1.15

  Furnivall.
• * 1.16

  Rotheram.
• * 1.17

  Connis-bor∣row. Florilegus. 487.
• * 1.18

  The Family of Fitz-Williams.
• * 1.19

  Dan-castre.
• * 1.20

  Tickhill.
• * 1.21

  Pla••. anno. 3. Ioan. Reg. Pl. M. 4. H. 3.
• * 1.22

  Marshland.
• * 1.23

  Nosthill. Saint Oswalds.
• * 1.24

  The River Calder.
• * 1.25

  Anno Christi 209.
• * 1.26

  DVI. The Genii of Places.
• * 1.27

  Lib. Ep. 40.
• * 1.28

  Vopiscus in Probus.
• * 1.29

  Halifax. Some would have it to be called afore∣time, the Chap¦pell in the Grove.
• * 1.30

  Fax, what it is.
• * 1.31

  Halifax law.
• * 1.32

  Almond-bury.
• * 1.33

  Cambodunum.
• * 1.34

  Whitley.
• * 1.35

  Kirkley.
• * 1.36

  Dewsbor∣rough.
• * 1.37

  Wakefield.
• * 1.38

  1460.
• * 1.39

  The Savils. Howley.
• * 1.40

  Medley.
• * 1.41

  The River Are.
• * 1.42

  Araris in France. Craven.
• * 1.43

  Skipton.
• * 1.44

  Latium.
• * 1.45

  Kigheley.
• * 1.46

  Leedes.
• * 1.47

  Winwidfield.
• * 1.48

  Elme••.
• * 1.49

  Ninius. Calx viva.
• * 1.50

  Castleford.
• * 1.51

  Legeolium▪
• * 1.52

  T. de castle ford.
• * 1.53

  Saint Willi•••• of Yorke.
• * 1.54

  Lacy the Nor∣man.
• * 1.55

  Placit. 11.
• * 1.56

  The booke Stanlow M••••nastery.
• * 1.57

  See Earles •• Lincolne.
• * 1.58

  Thomas 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Lancaste••
• * 1.59

  Aberford.
• * 1.60

  Cary Castle.
• * 1.61

  Barwic in Elmet.
• * 1.62

  Hesselwood. Vavasores or Valvaforces.
• * 1.63

  Petres-post.
• * 1.64

  The battaile at Towton.
• * 1.65

  A quarry of stone.
• * 1.66

  The River Wherf.
• * 1.67

  Kilnesey Cra••••••
• * 1.68

  Ilekeley. Olicana.
• * 1.69

  Of him U••••pian maketh mention lib. •• de Vulgari & pupillari sub∣stitutione.
• * 1.70

  Legato.
• * 1.71

  Pro Praetor••
• * 1.72

  Epist. 41.
• * 1.73

  Otley.
• * 1.74

  Chevin. Chervin, what it signifieth.
• * 1.75

  Gevenna.
• * 1.76

  Harewood.
• * 1.77

  Placit. 1. Joan. Rot. 10. in D. Monstr. le Droit. 35. F. 1.
• * 1.78

  Rivers or Red••ers.
• * 1.79

  Rivers or Red••ers.
• * 1.80

  Gascoignes.
• * 1.81

  Wetherby.
• * 1.82

  Tadcaster.
• * 1.83

  Calcaria.
• * 1.84

  Calcarienses. De Decurionibu L. 27. The Romane language in Provinces.
• * 1.85

  Augustin. lib.19 de Civitate Dei
• * 1.86

  Itinerarium. T. Edes.
• * 1.87

  The river Nid.
• * 1.88

  Rippley.
• * 1.89

  Knarsborrow Castle.
• * 1.90

  Dropping well. A Well turning wood into stone.
• * 1.91

  Wakeman.
• * 1.92

  Saint Wilfrides Needle.
• * 1.93

  Pyramides.
• * 1.94

  Divels bolts.
• * 1.95

  Is-Urium.
• * 1.96

  Aldborrow. i. Old Borrow.
• * 1.97

  Eboracum. Yorke.
• * 1.98

  Fosse-river.
• * 1.99

  The Manour.
• * 1.100

  That Victor whom Andre•• Scot set forth of late.
• * 1.101

  Severus▪
• * 1.102

  The Temple of Bellona.
• * 1.103

  L.I.C. Constantius
• * 1.104

  Constantine the Great.
• * 1.105

  Vincentii Spe∣culum histori∣ale.
• * 1.106

  Scotland in times past, subject to the Archbishop of Yorke.
• * 1.107

  See in Scot∣land. A Library. Flaccus Alc∣winus or Al∣binus flouri∣shed. anno. 780.
• * 1.108

  The sixty six Archbishop.
• * 1.109

  Alfred of B••••verley, in t•••• Library of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Lord Burg•••• Treasurer 〈◊〉〈◊〉 England.
• * 1.110

  Decimatio•• Execution 〈◊〉〈◊〉 very tenth 〈◊〉〈◊〉
• * 1.111

  Commentar▪ of Pope Pius. Lib. prim.
• * 1.112

  The Councell established in the North.
• * 1.113

  Bishops Thorpe.
• * 1.114

  Cawood.
• * 1.115

  L. Knivet.
• * 1.116

  East-riding.
• * 1.117

  Montferrant Historie of Meaux.
• * 1.118

  de Malolacu.
• * 1.119

  Battlebridge.
• * 1.120

  Howden.
• * 1.121

  Metham.
• * 1.122

  Abus. Humber••.
• * 1.123

  Bede.
• * 1.124

  Gods Church or habitation.
• * 1.125

  Drifeild.
• * 1.126

  Beverley.
• * 1.127

  Betnatia.
• * 1.128

  The life of John of Bever∣ley.
• * 1.129

  Pat. 5. H. 4.
• * 1.130

  Hull river.
• * 1.131

  The Register of Meaux Abbay.
• * 1.132

  Cottingham.
• * 1.133

  Estotevill.
• * 1.134

  Wake.
• * 1.135

  Kingston upon Hull.
• * 1.136

  Placit. Anno. 44. Edw. 3. Ebo••. 24.
• * 1.137

  Pro Vaccariis & Beycariis.
• * 1.138

  De la Pole.
• * 1.139

  Cl. 5. E.R. 3. M. 28. Valectus or Valettus. I. Tisius.
• * 1.140

  Ocellum. Holdernesse.
• * 1.141

  Headon.
• * 1.142

  Praetorium. Patrington.
• * 1.143

  Winsted. Barons de Rosse.
• * 1.144

  Ravenspur and Ravens-burg. Kelnsey.
• * 1.145

  Sisters Kirkes. Constable.
• * 1.146

  Sinus salutari••. Suerby.
• * 1.147

  Gabrantovici.
• * 1.148

  Flambor∣rough-head.
• * 1.149

  Flamborough.
• * 1.150

  Constable de Flamborough.
• * 1.151

  Vipseys waters.
• * 1.152

  Wolves.
• * 1.153

  Earles of Au∣marle and Holdernesse.
• * 1.154

  Fitz. Odo. An ancient Genealogy or pedigree.
• * 1.155

  Cr••ssu••.
• * 1.156

  Gibbosus.
• * 1.157

  North Riding.
• * 1.158

  Scarborrough Castle.
• * 1.159

  See Dier 144.
• * 1.160

  The gainfull fishing for Herrings.
• * 1.161

  Hexameron. lib. 5. cap. 80.
• * 1.162

  The River Teise.
• * 1.163

  Robbin Hoods Bay.
• * 1.164

  Dunum.
• * 1.165

  Dunsley. Whitby.
• * 1.166

  Stony Serpents of Hildas.
• * 1.167

  Geese falling downe.
• * 1.168

  Duke Wade from whom th•• families of the Wades derive▪
• * 1.169

  Mauley▪
• * 1.170

  Moul grave Castle.
• * 1.171

  Barons of Mauley.
• * 1.172

  Geat.
• * 1.173

  Gagates.
• * 1.174

  Others are opinion that our pit cole o•• stone cole wa•• the old Gaga∣tes.
• * 1.175

  Cliveland.
• * 1.176

  Brius of Skel∣ton.
• * 1.177

  Barons Falcon∣berg.
• * 1.178

  Yare. Stokesley.
• * 1.179

  Gisburgh.
• * 1.180

  Onusbery hill or Rosebery-Topping.
• * 1.181

  The History of Canterbury.
• * 1.182

  Praerogativae Reg. 17. Ed. 2.
• * 1.183

  17. Hen. 6. Bromfleet Lord Vescy.
• * 1.184

  Escaetria ••. Edw. 2 n. 63. Barons Vescy
• * 1.185

  Mon••••uli.
• * 1.186

  The Vescies coate of Armes. Matth. Paris. M.S.
• * 1.187

  Mowbraie.
• * 1.188

  In other places he is named De Fronte-bovis.
• * 1.189

  The Register of Fountains Abbay.
• * 1.190

  Fair-fax. Fax.
• * 1.191

  A solemne Horse-running.
• * 1.192

  North-Al••er∣ton shire.
• * 1.193

  Cap. 126.
• * 1.194

  Battaile of Standard.
• * 1.195

  Earle of Northumber∣land slaine by Rebells.
• * 1.196

  Earles and Dukes of Yorke.
• * 1.197

  Earle of March.
• * 1.198

  Parliament. 10. Hen. 6.
• * 1.199

  Out of the Rols of the Parliament. 39. of Hen. the 6.
• * 1.200

  Warre between the House of Lancaster and Yorke, or the red Rose and the white.
• * 1.201

  See pag. 570.
• * 1.202

  1604.
• * 1.203

  He was his sonne in law.
• * 1.204

  Copper, lead, and stone-cole, or pit-cole.
• * 1.205

  Stone cocles and winkles.
• * 1.206

  Hell-beckes.
• * 1.207

  Wentsedale.
• * 1.208

  The name of Geta rased out.
• * 1.209

  Bracchium.
• * 1.210

  The statue of Emperour Commodus.
• * 1.211

  The great fa∣mily of the Medcalfes.
• * 1.212

  Creifishes.
• * 1.213

  Bolton Castle.
• * 1.214

  Barons le Scrope.
• * 1.215

  Midleham.
• * 1.216

  Lords of Midleham.
• * 1.217

  Genealogia antiqua. Coverham.
• * 1.218

  Masham.
• * 1.219

  Snath.
• * 1.220

  Barons Lati∣mer.
• * 1.221

  Tanfeld.
• * 1.222

  Marmions. Inq. 6. H. 6.
• * 1.223

  Swale a sacred River.
• * 1.224

  See pag. 136.
• * 1.225

  Marrick.
• * 1.226

  Richmond.
• * 1.227

  Gilling.
• * 1.228

  Ravenswath. Barons Fitz-Hugh.
• * 1.229

  Caturacto∣nium. Catarrick.
• * 1.230

  Catarrick bridge.
• * 1.231

  Hornby.
• * 1.232

  Fitz-Alan.
• * 1.233

  Caldwell. Aldburgh.
• * 1.234

  Fortè Dia For∣tunae.
• * 1.235

  Bathea.
• * 1.236

  Balineum or Balneum.
• * 1.237

  Seneca.
• * 1.238

  Stane More.
• * 1.239

  Spittle on Stane More.
• * 1.240

  Maiden Castle.
• * 1.241

  Earles of Richmond.
• * 1.242

  Guil. G••mit. L. 7 c. 34.
• * 1.243

  Booke of Rich∣mond Fees. Register of Swasey.
• * 1.244

  Overus de S. Martino is a∣bout this time named Earle of Richmond.
• * 1.245

  Normandy a∣warded away from the K.K. of England.
• * 1.246

  Robert de Ar∣thois was not Earle of Rich∣mond as Fros∣sard writeth, but of Beau∣mont.

  The booke of Tenures or Fees of Rich∣mond.
• * 1.247

  Duke of Richmond.
• * 1.248

  Obsidianus lopi Canole cole▪
• * 1.249

  Saint Cuth∣berts Patri∣mony.
• * 1.250

  The River Teise, or Teisis.
• * 1.251

  Stretlham.
• * 1.252

  Bowes.
• * 1.253

  Ermin.
• * 1.254

  Raby Castle.
• * 1.255

  The family of the Nevils.
• * 1.256

  See in West∣morland.
• * 1.257

  Selaby.
• * 1.258

  Barons Coig∣niers.
• * 1.259

  Derlington.
• * 1.260

  Hell Kettles, Deepe pits.
• * 1.261

  Earth-quake.
• * 1.262

  Certaine Gen∣tlemen called Sur.
• * 1.263

  Teis i. upon Teis, sometime flourished here.
• * 1.264

  Gretham.
• * 1.265

  Hartlepoole.
• * 1.266

  A Promontory in our language is called Nesse.
• * 1.267

  The river Ve∣dra, or Were.
• * 1.268

  Witton.
• * 1.269

  Barons Evers. or D'Eure.
• * 1.270

  Auk-land.
• * 1.271

  Vinovium.
• * 1.272

  Binchester.
• * 1.273

  As concerning the Mother Goddesses. See in Lanca∣shire.
• * 1.274

  Anno Christi. 236.

  Votum solvit. li ben. merito .i. Paid his vow willingly and duly.
• * 1.275

  Branspath Castle.
• * 1.276

  Salt stones.
• * 1.277

  Dunelmus. Durham, or Duresme.
• * 1.278

  Gallilee.
• * 1.279

  For no woman might enter in∣to Durham Church.
• * 1.280

  Beere-parke. 1346.
• * 1.281

  Battaile of Nevils Crosse
• * 1.282

  Shrirburne Hospitall.
• * 1.283

  Finchdale.
• * 1.284

  Lumley. Barons Lum∣ley.
• * 1.285

  Chester upon the street. Condercum.
• * 1.286

  Hilton Castle.
• * 1.287

  Glasiers, first in England.
• * 1.288

  Ebchester. Saint Ebba.
• * 1.289

  Saint Tabbs.
• * 1.290

  Girwy. Iarrow. Bede.
• * 1.291

  Basilicae.
• * 1.292

  Saint Bede.
• * 1.293

  Bishops of Durham.
• * 1.294

  See the Earles of Northum∣berland.
• * 1.295

  Mosses.
• * 1.296

  Cespites.
• * 1.297

  Lanca-shire b••ufes.
• * 1.298

  Rochdale.
• * 1.299

  Cockley.
• * 1.300

  Mancunium.
• * 1.301

  Centurionis,
• * 1.302

  Trafford.
• * 1.303

  Mosses when they come.
• * 1.304

  Firre trees in Caesars time grew not in Britaine.
• * 1.305

  Holecroft.
• * 1.306

  Pincerne.
• * 1.307

  Winwicke.
• * 1.308

  Fishes digged out of the ground.
• * 1.309

  Ormeskirk.
• * 1.310

  Stanleys Earles of Derby.
• * 1.311

  Duglesse a rive∣ret.
• * 1.312

  Wiggin.
• * 1.313

  Biggin, what it is.
• * 1.314

  The family of the Hollands.
• * 1.315

  The Hollands coat of Armes.
• * 1.316

  With flowres de Lyz.
• * 1.317

  Bellisama.
• * 1.318

  Penigent.
• * 1.319

  Pendle hill.
• * 1.320

  Clowdesbery.
• * 1.321

  Penninae Alpes.
• * 1.322

  Pen in British what it is. Clithero. Whaley.
• * 1.323

  Riblechester.
• * 1.324

  In the house of Thomas Rhodes.
• * 1.325

  Haply, Decú∣rio Alae Astu∣rum, susceptum solvit (••. vo∣tum) libens, lu¦bens, meritò.
• * 1.326

  Deae Matres. Mother God∣desses.

  See in the Bi∣shopricke of Durham.

  Plutarch in M. Marcellus.
• * 1.327

  Altars of the Gentiles. Genes. 8.
• * 1.328

  Haply C. Al. for Centurio Alae Sarmata∣rum.
• * 1.329

  Out of Willi∣am Lambards notes.
• * 1.330

  Ribodunum.
• * 1.331

  Coccium.
• * 1.332

  Penworth, o∣therwise called Penverdant. Preston.
• * 1.333

  Houghton.
• * 1.334

  Walton.
• * 1.335

  Ander-nesse.
• * 1.336

  The file.
• * 1.337

  Grenhaugh c••••stle.
• * 1.338

  A new mann of making 〈◊〉〈◊〉.
• * 1.339

  Quick-sands.
• * 1.340

  The river Lu•••• or Lone. Salmons.
• * 1.341

  Over-burrow
• * 1.342

  Bremetona∣cum.
• * 1.343

  Kernellare what it is. Hornby castl•• Barons Mon••••Eagle.
• * 1.344

  The Gunpow∣der treason.
• * 1.345

  Lancaster.
• * 1.346

  Fournesse.
• * 1.347

  Carthmell.
• * 1.348

  Winander∣mere.
• * 1.349

  The fish Chare.
• * 1.350

  The booke of Fournesse.
• * 1.351

  Aldingham. Harringtons.
• * 1.352

  Lords of La••••caster.
• * 1.353

  Pictavensis, or of Poictiers
• * 1.354

  Walter He∣mingford. Ro. Hoveden pag. 373. b.
• * 1.355

  Earle of Lan∣caster, King of Sicily.
• * 1.356

  De Cadurcis.
• * 1.357

  Dukes of Lan∣caster.
• * 1.358

  John of Gau King of Ca∣stile.
• * 1.359

  King Henry the fourth.
• * 1.360

  Parliament Roll 1. H. 4.
• * 1.361

  The Barony of Kendale.
• * 1.362

  Lords of Ken¦dale.

  History of Fournesse.
• * 1.363

  The family o•• Lancaster.
• * 1.364

  L.Par of Ken¦dale.
• * 1.365

  Earles of Ke••¦dale.
• * 1.366

  Catadupe or Forses.
• * 1.367

  Ambleside. Amboglana.
• * 1.368

  Baron What∣ton.
• * 1.369

  Heartly castle.
• * 1.370

  Burgus sub∣s••xeto. Burgh under Stanmore. Burgus. Vegetius lib. 4. cap. 10.
• * 1.371

  Aballaba. Apelby.
• * 1.372

  Whellep ca∣stle. Gallatum.
• * 1.373

  Maiden way.
• * 1.374

  A. for A.
• * 1.375

  Northren men call that a whin, which the Southern men a burre. Brovoniacum. Brougham.
• * 1.376

  Pientissimo Augusto.
• * 1.377

  Isan-parles.
• * 1.378

  Hanging wals of Marke An∣tony.

  Fines Term. Mich. R. 6. H. 8.

  Vipounts Armes.

  Earles of West∣morland.
• * 1.379

  Copeland.
• * 1.380

  Millum castle▪
• * 1.381

  Raven-glas.
• * 1.382

  Hard-knot neer Wrinofe.
• * 1.383

  Irt a riveret.
• * 1.384

  See Plinie. Pearles.
• * 1.385

  Saint Bees.
• * 1.386

  Egremont ca∣stle. Lords of Copeland. Liber Inq.
• * 1.387

  The sea side fensed.
• * 1.388

  Moresby.
• * 1.389

  Deo Sylvano Cohors secunda Lingonum, cui praest G. Pom∣peius M. Satur∣ninus.
• * 1.390

  Morbium.
• * 1.391

  Hay castle.
• * 1.392

  Copper or brasse mines.
• * 1.393

  Veines of gold gold and sil∣ver.
• * 1.394

  See Ploidens Reports.
• * 1.395

  Keswike.
• * 1.396

  Skiddaw hill.
• * 1.397

  Guasmoric.
• * 1.398

  Epist. ad Sever.
• * 1.399

  Catechumeni, or hearers.
• * 1.400

  Armes of the Lucies and Percies.
• * 1.401

  Pikes.
• * 1.402

  Luces.
• * 1.403

  Culwen, com∣monly Cur∣wen.
• * 1.404

  Under Hono¦rius and Arc¦dius.
• * 1.405

  Olenacum.
• * 1.406

  Decuriones. Isidor. l. 9. c. 4.
• * 1.407

  Volantium.
• * 1.408

  Under Com∣modus Anno Christi 193.
• * 1.409

  Gentiles or Heathen al∣tars.
• * 1.410

  See in Lanca∣shire▪
• * 1.411

  Publii filius.
• * 1.412

  Diis Manibus
• * 1.413

  Faciendum curavit.
• * 1.414

  Moricambe.
• * 1.415

  Holme Cul∣train.
• * 1.416

  Michael Sco∣tus.
• * 1.417

  Castra Explo∣ratorum.
• * 1.418

  See as touching the Areans af∣terward in the Picts Wall.
• * 1.419

  Ala Augusta Gordiana at Il-Kirk.
• * 1.420

  Iovi optimo maximo.
• * 1.421

  Iovi optimo maximo.
• * 1.422

  Iovi optimo maximo.
• * 1.423

  An. Christ. 243
• * 1.424

  Wigton.
• * 1.425

  Thoresby.
• * 1.426

  For Aram ex vot••.
• * 1.427

  Which the Scots call Sol∣way Frith.
• * 1.428

  Blatum-Bulgi∣um.
• * 1.429

  Bulnesse▪
• * 1.430

  The beginning of the Picts Wall.
• * 1.431

  Solway Frith.
• * 1.432

  Trees within the ground.
• * 1.433

  Burgh upon sands.
• * 1.434

  1307. Called Mor∣vils de Burgh upon Sands.
• * 1.435

  Liber. Inq.
• * 1.436

  Edward the first.
• * 1.437

  Solway Frith.
• * 1.438

  The river Itu∣na, or Eden. History of Malrosse.
• * 1.439

  Dacre. Barons Dacre.
• * 1.440

  Perith.
• * 1.441

  Called in old time Haia de Plompton.
• * 1.442

  Petriana.
• * 1.443

  Annos.
• * 1.444

  Haply, Faci∣endum procu∣ravit.
• * 1.445

  Peradventure in Cohorte.
• * 1.446

  Dum.
• * 1.447

  Fratri & fi∣liae Titulum posuit.
• * 1.448

  Kirk Oswald.
• * 1.449

  Armanthwayt. Corby castle.
• * 1.450

  Wetherall.
• * 1.451

  Virosidum.
• * 1.452

  Linstock. Crosby.
• * 1.453

  Greystock. The ancient Genealogie. Barons de Greystock.
• * 1.454

  Mines of Brasse.
• * 1.455

  Congavata.
• * 1.456

  Carlile.
• * 1.457

  Luguvallum.
• * 1.458

  Lucus and Lugus what they signifie among the Britans and old Gauls.
• * 1.459

  Lugdunum. Lucotecia or Lutetia in France.

  The old Itine∣rarie lately im∣printed, shew∣eth that Lug∣dunum impli∣eth, a Desirable hill.
• * 1.460

  Or de Mice∣nis.
• * 1.461

  Or de Mice∣nis.
• * 1.462

  Tumulum.
• * 1.463

  Carissima.
• * 1.464

  Andrew Har∣cla Earle of Carlile.
• * 1.465

  Or girdle.
• * 1.466

  Grayhams.
• * 1.467

  Barony of Liddel. Liddesdale.
• * 1.468

  ••attaile at So∣l••m mosse. 1542.
• * 1.469

  Batable ground.
• * 1.470

  Leven.
• * 1.471

  Scalby Castle.
• * 1.472

  Askerton.
• * 1.473

  Brampton. Brementura∣cum.
• * 1.474

  Armaturae Ve∣get. l. 2. c. 7.
• * 1.475

  Perhaps Pro∣praetore.
• * 1.476

  In the yeere of Christ 216.
• * 1.477

  Iovi optimo Maximo.
• * 1.478

  Fortissimo Caesari.
• * 1.479

  Lords of Gil∣lesland. Out of an old Missal. Also R. Cook Clarenceux calleth him Ra∣dulph .i. Raulph. So doth Manu∣script bookes of Fountaines and Holme.
• * 1.480

  Maiden way.
• * 1.481

  Alone.
• * 1.482

  Kings of Cumberland.
• * 1.483

  Florilegus.
• * 1.484

  Captaines or Rulers of Cumberland.
• * 1.485

  Earles of Cumberland:
• * 1.486

  Frontier senses or Forts, wri∣ters termed Clusurae, be∣cause they ex∣cluded the ene∣mies; and Prae∣tenturae, be∣cause they were set against or affront the ene∣mies.
• * 1.487

  See P. Pithoeus in adversariis lib. 1. cap. 14.
• * 1.488

  The Limits or Bounds of the Empire.
• * 1.489

  Tit. 43.
• * 1.490

  Vallo Limitis.
• * 1.491

  Hence come Stationes A∣gartae in Ve∣getius.
• * 1.492

  The first fore∣fense.
• * 1.493

  Bodo••••ia and Glotta.
• * 1.494

  S. Austin. de Civ. Dei, l. 4. c. 19.
• * 1.495

  The second fore-fense.
• * 1.496

  Rota tempo∣rum.
• * 1.497

  The third Fense.
• * 1.498

  The fourth Fense.
• * 1.499

  Murus. Vallum.
• * 1.500

  Lib. 1. c 5.
• * 1.501

  Why lands were given to the Captaines of the Marches.
• * 1.502

  Marcellinus lib. 38. About the yeere 367.
• * 1.503

  M••gister Of∣f••ciorum.
• * 1.504

  The wall be∣tweene Eden∣borrow Frith and Dunbrit∣••on Frith.
• * 1.505

  About the yeere of Christ 420.
• * 1.506

  Alciatus cal∣leth it the Bre∣viary of Theo∣dosius.
• * 1.507

  Souldiers pla∣ced in garisons, and along the Wall.
• * 1.508

  In Vastis. The Wasts,
• * 1.509

  Areani, certain discoverers, lib. 28.
• * 1.510

  Cornage.
• * 1.511

  The high-land Sco••s at this day call their little barges Carroches.
• * 1.512

  The Paris e∣dition hath Scytica Val∣lem, and mea∣neth haply the Scottish sea.
• * 1.513

  The policy and wisdome of the Roman in setting of this wall.
• * 1.514

  Plants medici¦nable and wholsome.