Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

[ A]

BISHOPRICK OF DVRHAM.

THe Bishopricke of Durham or Duresme, bordering on the North side upon Yorke-shire is shaped in fashion of a triangle, the utmost angle whereof is made up, toward the West, where the Northren limit and the Spring-head of Tees doe meete. One of the sides which lieth Southward is bounded in with the continued course of the river Tees running downe along [ B] by it: the other that looketh Northward, is limited first, with a short line, from the utmost point to the river Derwent, then, with Derwent it selfe, untill it hath taken unto it Chopwell a little river, and afterward with the river Tine. The Sea coast fashioneth out the Base of the Triangle which li∣eth Eastward, and the German Ocean with a mighty roaring, and forcible violence beareth thereupon.

On that part where it gathereth narrow to the Westerne angle, the fields are na∣ked and barren, the woods very thin, the hills bare without grasse, but not without mynes of iron. As for the Vallies, they are reasonably grassie, and that high hill which I termed the Apennine of England, cutteth in twain this angle. But on the East [ C] part or Base of the Triangle, as also on both sides, the ground being well manured, is very fruitful, and the increase yeeldeth good recompence for the husbandmans toile: it is also well garnished with meddowes, pastures, and corn-fields, beset everywhere with townes and yeelding plenty of Sea coale, which in many places we use for few∣ell. Some will have this coale to be an earthy black Bitumen, others, to be Gagates, and some againe the L••pis Thracius; all which that great Philosopher in Minerals, George Agricola, hath prooved to be one and the same thing. Surely this of ours, is nothing else but Bitumen, or a clammy kind of cley hardned with heat under the earth, and so throughly concocted: For, it yeeldeth the smell of Bitumen, and if water bee sprink∣led upon it, it burneth more vehemently and the cleerer: but, whether it may bee [ D] quenched with oile,* 1.1 I have not yet tried. And if the Stone called Obsidianus be in our country, I would take that to bee it, which is found in other places of England, and commonly called Canole cole: For it is hard, bright, light, and somewhat easie to be cloven piece meale into flakes, and being once kindled it burneth very quickly. But let us leave these matters to those that search more deeply into Natures closets.

All this country with other territories also thereto adjoyning the Monasticall wri∣ters tearme the Land,* 1.2 or Patrimonie of Saint Cuthbert. For, so they called whatsoever belonged to the Church of Durham, whereof S. Cuthbert was the Patron: who in the primitive state of the English Church, being Bishop of Lindefarn, led all his life in such holinesse and so sincerely, that he was enrolled among the English Saints. Our [ E] kings also, and Peeres of the Realme, because they verily perswaded themselves that he was their Tutelar Saint and Protectour against the Scots, went not onely in Pil∣grimage with devotion to visite his body (which, they beleeved to have continued still found and uncorrupt) but also gave very large possessions to this Church, and en∣dowed the same with many immunities. King Edgfride bestowed upon Cuthbert himselfe whiles he lived, great revenewes in the very City of Yorke, and Creake also whereof I spake, and the City Luguballia, as wee reade in the History of Durham. King Aelfred and Guthrun the Dane, whom hee made Lieutenant of Nor∣thumberland, gave afterwards all the Lands betweene the Rivers Were and Tine unto Cuthbert, and to those who ministred in his Church, to have and to hold for ever, as [ F] their rightfull Possession. (These bee the very words in effect of an ancient Booke) whence they might have sufficient maintenance to live upon, and not be pinched with pover∣ty: over and besides, they ordeined his Church to bee a safe Sanctuary for all fugitives: that whosoever for any cause fled unto his Corps, should have peaceable being for 37. daies, and the same liberty never for any occasion to bee infringed or denyed. Edward and Athelstan,

Kings; Knute also or Canutus the Dane, who came on his bare feete to Cuthberts [ A] Tombe, not onely confirmed but enlarged also these liberties. In like manner King William the Conquerour, since whose time it hath alwayes beene deemed a County Palatine: yea and some of the Bishops, as Counts Palatine have engraven in their seales a Knight or man at armes in compleat harnesse sitting upon an horse all trap∣ped, with one hand brandishing a sword, and in the other holding out the Armes of the Bishopricke.

The Bishops also have had their royalties and princely rights, so that the goods of outlawed and attainted persons out of the Kings protection, fell into their hands and not into the Kings: yea and the Commons of that Province standing upon their pri∣viledges have refused to serve in warre under the King in Scotland. For, they plea∣ded [ B] (the Story of Duresme shall speake for mee) That they were Haliwerke folkes, and held their lands to defend the Corps of Saint Cuthbert; neither ought they to goe out of the precincts of the Bishopricke, namely beyond Tine and Teese, for King or Bishop. But King Edward the First, was the first that abridged them of these liberties. For, when as he interposed himselfe as Arbitratour betweene the Bishop Antony Bec, and the Pri∣our who contended most egerly about certaine lands, and they would not stand to his award, Hee seised, as saith mine Authour, the liberty of the Bishopricke into his owne hand, and there were many corners searched, many flawes found, and the Liberty in many points much impaired. Howbeit, the Church afterward recovered her rights, and held them inviolate unto the daies of King Edward the Sixth, unto whom, upon the dis∣solution [ C] of the Bishopricke, the States in Parliament granted all the revenewes and liberties thereof. But forthwith Queene Mary by the same authority repealed this Act, and restored all things safe and sound unto the Church againe, which it en∣joyeth at this day. For, the Bishop, James Pilkinton of late time entred his action against Queene Elizabeth, about the possessions and goods of Charles Nevill Earle of Westmorland and of others that stood attainted for treason in this precinct, because they had most wickedly levied warre against their native Country: and he the said Bishop had followed the suit to a triall, if the authority of Parliament had not in∣terposed and adjudged the same for that time, unto the Queene, because to her ex∣ceeding great charges she had delivered both Bishop and Bishopricke from the out∣rage [ D] of the Rebels. But leaving these matters, let us proceed forward to the de∣scripton of places.

The riuer that boundeth the South part of this country, is called by Latin writers Teisis,* 1.3 and Teesa, commonly Tees: by Polydore Virgill the Italian (whose minde ranne of Athesis in his owne country Italy) without any reason, Athesis. In Ptolomee it see∣meth to be called, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: and yet I thinke that in him it is removed out of his proper place through the negligence of transcribers. For, considering that he hath placed TUESIS and TINA in the more remote part of Britaine, where the Scots now inhabite; and seeing that this Region is enclosed within Tees and Tine; If I durst, as a Criticke, correct that ancient Geographer, I would recall them home [ E] againe hither into their owne places, though they have been long displaced, and that with the Scots good leave I hope, who have no Rivers upon which they can truely father these names. TEES springeth out of that stony country called Stanemore, and carrying with him away in his chanell along, many brookes and beckes on each side, and running through rockes (out of which at Egleston, where there is a marble Quar∣roy, and where Conan Earle of Britaine, and Richmond founded a small Abbay) first beateth upon Bernard Castle, built and so named by Bernard Balliol the great grand∣fathers father of John Balliol King of the Scots. But this John Balliol, whom King Ed∣ward the First had declared King of Scotland, lost the same with other his possessions, because he had broken his alleageance which he sware unto Edward. At which time [ F] the King being highly displeased with Antony Bishop of Durrham, tooke this Castle (as witnesseth the booke of Duresme) with the appertinences thereto from him, and con∣ferred the same upon the Earle of Warwicke: as Herkes also and Hertnes, which hee gave unto Robert Clifford: Kewerston also, which hee bestowed upon Geffrey of Hertpole, which

[ A] the Bishop had by the forfeiture of Iohn Baliol, Robert Bruse, and Christopher Seton. But a few yeeres after, Lewis Beaumount the Bishop, a man royally descended, but alto∣gether unlettered, brought his action for this Castle and the rest of those possessions, and obtained his suite, by vertue of judgement given in this tenour, The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeiture of Warres within the Liberties of his Bishopricke, as the King hath it without.* 1.4 Hard by it is Stretlham seene, where dwelt for a long time the worshipfull family of the Bowes,* 1.5 Knights: who from time to time in the greatest troubles have performed passing good service to Prince and Country: and derive their pedigree from W. de Bowes, unto whom, as I have read, Alanus Niger Earle of Britaine and Richmond granted, that hee might give for his Armes, The* 1.6 Scutcheon of [ B] Britaine with three bent Bowes therein.

Not full five miles from hence, standeth somewhat farther from Tees banke Stan∣drop, which also is called Stainthorpe, that is, Stony Village, a little Mercate Towne, where there was a Collegiat Church, founded by the Nevills, and was their Buri∣all-place. Neere unto it is Raby,* 1.7 whch Cnut or Canute the Danish King gave free∣ly unto the Church of Durham together with the land lying round about it, and Stanthorpe, to be held for ever. Since which time, as mine Authour informeth mee, The Family of the Nevills, or De nova villa, held Raby of the Church, paying yeerely for it foure pounds and a Stagge.* 1.8 These Nevilles deduce their Descent from Waltheof Earle of Northumberland, out of whose posterity, when Robert the sonne of Mal∣dred,* 1.9 [ C] Lord of Raby had married the daughter of Geffrey Nevill the Norman (whose Grandsire Gilbert Nevill is reported to have beene Admirall to King William the Conquerour) their succeeding Progeny tooke unto them the name of Nevilles, and grew up into a most numerous honourable, and mighty house: who erected heere a great and spacious Castle, which was the first and principall seate. These two places Stainthorpe and Raby are severed one from another onely by a little rill which after some few miles runneth into Tees, neere unto Selaby, where now is the habi∣tation of the Brakenburies,* 1.10 a Family of right good note both in regard of their owne Antiquity, as also for their marriages contracted with the heires of Denton and of Wicliff.

[ D] Tees passing on from thence by Sockburne, the dwelling house of the ancient and noble Family of the Coigniers,* 1.11 out of which were the Barons Coigniers of Horn∣by (whose inheritance much bettered by matching in marriage with the heires of the Lord Darcy of Metnill, and of William Nevill Earle of Kent, and Lord of Fau∣conberg, is descended from them in the memory of our fathers, to the Atherstons and the Darcies) holdeth his course neere unto Derlington,* 1.12 a Mercate Towne of good resort, which Seir, an English Saxon the sonne of Ulph, having obtained leave of King Etheldred gave unto the Church of Durham: and Hugh Pudsey adorned it with a faire Church and other edifices.

In this Towne field are three pittes of a wonderfull depth, the common people [ E] tearme them Hell-Kettles,* 1.13 because the water in them by the Antiperistasis or rever∣beration of the cold aire striking thereupon, waxeth hote. The wiser sort and men of better judgement doe thinke, they came by the sinking downe of the ground swallowed up in some earth-quake,* 1.14 and that by a good probable reason. For, thus we reade in the Chronicles of Tinmouth. In the yeere of our Lord 1179. on Christmas day, at Oxenhall in the Territory of Derlington, within the Bishopricke of Durham, the ground heaved it selfe up aloft like unto an high Towre, and so continued all that day as it were unmoveable, untill the evening: and then, fell with so horrible a noise, that it made all the neighbour dwellers afraide: and the earth swallowed it up and made in the same place a deepe pit, which is there to bee seene for a testimony, unto this day. That these Pittes have [ F] passages under the ground Bishop Cuthbert Tonstall first observed, by finding that Goose in the River Tees, which he for the better triall and experience of these Pits, had marked and let downe into them.

Beyond Derlington,* 1.15 Tees hath no Townes of any great account standing upon it,

but gliding along the skirtes of greene fields,* 1.16 and by country Villages, winding in [ A] and out as he passeth; at length dischargeth himselfe at a large mouth into the Oce∣an, whence the base or bothom of the Triangle aforesaid towards the Sea be∣ginneth.

From hence the shore coasteth Northward, holding on entire still, save that it is interrupted with one or two little Brookes and no more,* 1.17 neere unto Gretham; where Robert Bishop of Durham having the Manour given freely unto him by Sir Peter de Montfort, founded a goodly Hospitall. Next unto it is Claxton, which gave name unto a Family of good and ancient note, in this Tract: whereof, I have beene the more willing to make mention, because of the same house was T. Claxton, an affectionate lover of venerable Antiquity. From thence, the shore shooteth forth [ B] into the Sea with one onely Promontory scarce seven miles above Tees mouth, on which standeth very commodiously Hartlepoole,* 1.18 a good Towne of trade, and a safe harbour for shipping. Bede seemeth to call it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which Henry of Huntingdon, interpreteth The Harts or Stagges Island, where hee writeth, that Heiu a religious wo∣man founded a Monastery in times past. If Heorteu bee not rather the name of that little Territory, which the Booke of D••resme seemeth to implie and in another place calleth Heortnesse,* 1.19 because it lyeth out somewhat farre into the Sea. From this for fifteene miles together the shore being in no place broken off, but heere and there embroidered as it were and garnished with Townes, smileth pleasantly upon those that saile that way, untill it openeth it selfe to make roome for the River VE∣DRA; [ C] for,* 1.20 so Ptolomee calleth that, which Bede nameth Wirus, the Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; and we Were. This river first groweth into one out of three riverets Burden-hop, Wel-hop, and Kel-hop, in the utmost part of this Country Westward: which when they are joyned in one chanell is called by one name Were, and speedeth into the East, by vast moores and heathes,* 1.21 by great Parkes of the Bishops, and by Witton a little Castle or pile belonging to the Lords Evers,* 1.22 who are Noblemen in this Country of great an∣tiquity, as descended from the Lords of Clavering and Warkworth, as also from the Vescyes and the Attons, by Daughters: renowned for their martiall prowesse, which Scotland may well witnesse. For, King Edward the First, gave unto them for their valiant service Kettnes a little Towne in Scotland, and King Henry the [ D] Eighth within our fathers remembrance honoured them in that respect with the Title of Barons.

Then Were after a few miles taketh into him from the South Gaunlesse a Riveret; where, at the very meeting of them both together, there standeth upon an high hill Aukland so called of Okes (like as Sarron in Greece) which sheweth an house of the Bishops stately built with Turrets by Antony Bec,* 1.23 and withall a beautifull Bridge, made by Walter Skirlaw a Bishop of Durham about the yeere 1400. who also en∣larged this house and built the Bridge over Tees at Yare. From hence Were turneth his course Northward, that he might water this shire the longer, and then forthwith looketh up to the remaines of an ancient City not now a dying, but dead many [ E] yeeres agoe, standing on the brow of an hill: which Antonine the Emperour called VINOVIUM,* 1.24 Ptolomee BINOVIUM, in whom it is so thrust out of his owne place, and set as it were in another Climate, that it would for ever have lien hid, had not Antonine pointed at it with his finger.* 1.25 Wee call it at this day Binchester, and it hath in it a very few houses: yet it is very well knowne to them that dwell thereabout, both by reason of the heapes of rubbish, and the reliques of walles yet to be seene, as also for peeces of Romane Coine often digged up there, which they call Bin∣chester Penies, yea and for the Inscriptions of the Romanes, amongst which I happe∣ned of late when I was there upon an Altar with this Inscription.

[ F]

[ A] DE AB.* 1.26 MATRIB. Q. LO—CL. QUIN TIANUS—COS V. S. L. M.* 1.27

Another stone also was heere lately gotten out of the ground, but defaced with [ B] voide places, where the letters were worne out: which notwithstanding, if one beheld it wishly, seemeth to shew this Inscription.

— — TRIB. COHOR. I. CARTOV— MARTI VICTORI GENIO LOCI. [ C] ET BONO EVENTUI.

Neither have I read any thing else of it, but that an old booke maketh mention, how the Earles of Northumberland, long since plucked away this with other Villa∣ges from the Church, what time as that accursed and unsatiable hunger after Gold swallowed up also the sacred patrimony of the Church.

On the other banke of Were,* 1.28 among the mounting Hilles appeareth Branspeth Castle, which the Bulmers built, and the daughter of Sir Bertram Bulmer coupled [ D] in marriage unto Geffrey Nevill, adjoyned with other great Possessions unto the Family of the Nevills. Within a while after Were runneth downe much trou∣bled and hindered in his Course with many great Stones apparent above the wa∣ter, which unlesse the River doe rise and swell with great store of raine, are ne∣ver over covered: and upon which (a thing that happeneth not elsewhere) if yee powre water, and temper it a little with them, it sucketh in a saltish quality. Nay, that which more is, at Butterby a little Village, when the River in Summer time is very ebbe and shallow,* 1.29 there issueth out of those stones a certaine salt reddish wa∣ter, which by the heat of the Sunne waxeth so white, and withall groweth to a thicke substance, that the people dwelling thereby gather from hence salt sufficient∣ly [ E] for their use.

And now the River, as though it purposed to make an Island, compasseth almost on every side the chiefe City of this Province standing on an hill, whence the Saxons gave it the name Dunholm. For, as you may gather out of Bede, they called an hill Dun, and a river Island Holme.* 1.30 Heereof, the Latine Writers have made DUNEL∣MUM, the Normans Duresme, but the common people most corruptly name it Durham. It is seated on high, and passing strongly withall, yet taketh it up no great circuit of ground; shaped in forme, as one would say, of an egge, environed on eve∣ry side save on the North with the River, and fortified with a wall. Toward the South side almost, whereas the River fetcheth it selfe about, standeth the Cathe∣drall [ F] Church aloft, making a solemne and a sightly shew with an high Towre in the middest and two Spires at the West end.

In the middest there is a Castle placed, as it were betweene two stone bridges o∣ver the river, the one Eastward, the other Westward. From the Castle Northward is seene a spacious Mercate-place and Saint Nicholas Church: from whence there

runneth out a great length North-East a Suburbe compassed on two sides the Ri∣ver: [ A] like as others on both sides beyond the River, which leade unto the Bridges, and euery of them have their severall Churches. The originall of this City is of no great Antiquity. For, when the distressed Monkes of Lindisfarn driven hither, and thither by the Danes Warres, wandered up and downe without any certaine place of abode with the corps of Saint Cuthbert, at length heere they setled them∣selves by divine direction, about the yeere of our Salvation 995. But heare the whole matter out of mine Authour of Durham. All the people accompanying the corps of that most holy Father Cuthbert came into Dunholme, a place verily strong of it selfe by nature, but not easily to bee inhabited, as being wholly beset on every side with a most thicke Wood: onely in the middest was a little Plaine, which was wont to bee tilled and sowed [ B] with Corne: where Bishop Aldwin built afterwards a faire Church of stone. The foresaid Prelate therefore, through the helpe of all the people and the assistance of Uthred Earle of Northumberland, stocked up all the Wood and in short time made the whole place habita∣ble. To conclude, the people generally from the River Coqued as farre as to Tees, came right willingly, as well to this worke, as after that to build a Church: and untill it was fini∣shed ceased not to follow that businesse devoutly. Wherefore after the Wood was quite grub'd up, and every one had their mansion places assigned out by lot; The said Bishop in a fervent love to Christ and Saint Cuthbert, upon an honest and godly intent beganne (no small peece of worke) to build a Church, and endeavoured by all meanes to finish the same. Thus farre mine Authour. [ C]

Not many yeeres after, those Englishmen who could not endure the insolent command of the Normans, presuming upon the naturall strength of the place, chose it for their chiefe Hold and seat of resistance, yea and from thence troubled the Conquerour not a little. For, William Gemeticensis writeth thus. They went into a part of the Country which for waters and woods was inaccessible, raising a Castle with a most strong trench and rampier, which they called Dunholme: out of which making many rodes sundry waies, for a certaine space they kept themselves close there, waiting for the comming of Swene King of the Danes. But when that fell not out according to their expectation, they provided for themselves by flight: and King William comming to Durham, granted many priviledges for establishing the liberty of the Church, and built the [ D] Castle whereof I spake, on the highest part of the hill, which afterwards became the Bishops house: and the keies thereof when the Bishopricke was voide, were wont by an ancient custome to be hanged upon Saint Cuthberts shrine.

When this Castle was once built, William of Malmesbury who lived about that time, describeth this City in these words. Durham is a prety hill rising by little and little from one plaine of the Valley with a gentle ascent, untill it come to bee a mount: and al∣though by reason of the rough and steepe situation of the Rockes, there is no way for the ene∣my to enter it; yet they of these daies have erected a Castle upon the hill. At the very foote and bottom of the Castle, runneth a River, wherein is great store of fish, but of Salmons espe∣cially. At the same time well neere (as that ancient Booke reporteth) William de [ E] Careleph the Bishop, who gathered againe the dispersed Monkes hither (for, the Danes in every place had overthrowne their Cloistures) pulled downe that Church which Aldwin had formerly built, and beganne the foundation of another of a fairer worke, which his successour Ralph finished. And after that, Nicholas Feruham Bi∣shop, and Thomas Mescomb Prior, adjoyned a new Fabrique or frame unto it, in the yeere of Christ 1242. And a good while after, W. Skirlaw the Bishop, built at the West end of the Church a faire peece of worke which they call Galli∣lee,* 1.31 whereinto hee translated the marble Tombe of Venerable Bede. In which place Hugh Pudsey, beganne in times past an house, wherein (I use the words of an ancient Booke) women might lawfully enter,* 1.32 that whereas they had not corporall accesse unto the [ F] more secret holy places; yet they might have some comfort by the beholding of the holy mysteries.

But, that Ralph the Bishop aforesaid, as our Historian writeth, reduced the place ••etweene the Church and the Castle, which had beene taken up with many dwelling houses,

[ A] into a plaine and open ground; for feare least either any annoyance by filth, or dangers by fire, might come neere unto the Church. And all be it the City was strong enough by the na∣turall site, yet hee made it more strong, and stately with a Wall, reaching in length from the Chauncell of the Church, unto the Keepe and Towre of the Castle: Which wall now by little and little giveth place unto time, and never that I could heare, suffered any assault of enemy.

For, when David Brus, King of Scots, had forraied the Country with fire and sword,* 1.33 as farre as to Beanparke or Beereparke, which is a Parke neere unto the City, whiles King Edward the Third besieged Calais, Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of Yorke, with their Companies of men mustered up in haste, encoun∣tered [ B] the Scots, and so couragiously charged them, that having taken the King pri∣soner they slew the most of the first and second battaile; and put the third to a fearefull flight: neither staied they at most steepe and cumbersome places, un∣till they recovered their owne Holds. This is that famous Battaile, which our people call The Battaile at Nevils Crosse.* 1.34 For, the chiefest of the Scottish Nobility being slaine, and the King taken prisoner at this field, they were enforced to yeeld much ground within their Confines, yea and to render many Castles. But this may suf∣fice as touching Durham: which I will take my leave of, if you thinke good, with a Distichon of Necham, and an Hexastichon of John Jonston.

[ C] Arte, sitúque loci munita Dunelmia salve, Qua floret sancta religionis apex. VEDRA ruens rapidis modò cursibus, agmine leni, Séque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros, Quos dedit ipsa olim, quorum & tegit ossa sepulta; Magnus ubi sacro marmore BEDA cubat. Se jactant aliae vel religione, vel armis; Haec armis cluit, haec religione potens.

[ D] Durham by art and site of place well fensed now farewell, Where for devout Religion the Mitre doth excell. The River Were that ranne most swift ere while, with streame now soft And chanell lesse, to famous men in towne lookes up aloft; Whom once it bred: and of whose bones in grave it is possest: Where under sacred marble stone, Great Beda now doth rest. Of Armes or of Religion, may other boast, I grant: For Armes and for Religion both, this City makes her vaunt.

[ E] Concerning the Monkes that were cast out at the suppression of the Abbaies, the twelve Prebendaries and two Arch-Deacons placed in this Church, and the Pri∣ours name changed into the Dignity of a Deane, I neede not to say any thing: for, they are yet in fresh memory. And unwilling I am to remember how this Bi∣shopricke was dissolved by a private Statute, and all the possessions thereof given to Edward the Sixth, when private greedinesse edged by Church-men did grinde the Church, and withdrew much from God, wherewith Christian Piety had for∣merly honoured God. But Queene Mary repealed that Statute and restored the said Bishopricke with all the Possessions, and Franchises thereof, that God might enjoy his owne. The Longitude of this City is 22. Degrees. The Latitude 54. [ F] Degrees and 57. minutes.

Beneath Durham, that I many not overpasse it,* 1.35 standeth Eastward a very faire Hospitall, which Hugh Pudsey that most wealthy Bishop, and Earle of Northum∣berland, so long as it was, Being very indulgently compassionate to Lepres (as Neu∣brigensis writeth) built with coste (I must needes say profuse enough) but in some sort not

so honest: as who layed no small deall of other mens right (so great was his power) upon [ A] this devotion, whiles hee thought much to disburse sufficient of his owne. Howbeit hee assigned unto it revenewes to maintaine threescore and five Lepres, besides Masse Priests.

From Durham Were carrieth his streame Northward with a more direct course, by Finchdale;* 1.36 where, in the Reigne of King Henry the Second Goodrick a man of the ancient Christian simplicity, and austerity wholly devoted to the service of God, led a solitary life and ended his daies: being buried in the same place, wherein, as that William of Neuborrow saith, hee was wont either to lye prostrate whiles he prayed, or to lay him downe when he was sicke. Who with this his devout simplicity, drew men into so great an admiration of him, that R. brother unto that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey [ B] built a Chappell in memoriall of him.

* 1.37From thence Were passeth by Lumley Castle standing within a Parke, the ancient seat of the Lumleies, who descended from Liulph, a man in this tract of right great Nobility in the time of King Edward the Confessour, who marryed Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earle of Northumberland. Of these Lumleies, Marmaduke as∣sumed unto him his mothers Coate of Armes (in whose right hee was seized of a goodly inheritance of the Thwengs) namely, Argent of Fesse Gueles betweene three Poppinjaes Vert, whereas the Lumleies before time had borne for their Armes, Six Pop∣pinjaes Argent, in Gueles. For she was the eldest daughter of Sir Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton, and one of the heires of Thomas Thweng her brother. But Ralph [ C] sonne to the said Marmaduke was the first Baron Lumley, created by King Richard the Second: which honour John the ninth from him enjoyed in our daies a man most honourable for all the ornaments of true Nobility.

Just over against this place, not farre from the other banke of the River standeth Chester upon the Street,* 1.38 as one would say, the Castle or little City by the Port way side: the Saxons called it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: whereupon, I would deeme it to be CONDERCUM, in which as the booke of Notices recordeth, the first wing of the Astures, in the Ro∣manes time kept station and lay in Garison, within the Line or precinct (as that booke saith) of the WALL. For it is but a few miles distant from that famous WALL, whereof I am to speake heereafter. The Bishops of Lindifarre lived ob∣scurely [ D] heere with the corps of Saint Cuthbert, whiles the raging stormes of the Danes were up, for the space of an hundred and thirteene yeeres. In memory whereof, when Egelricke Bishop of Durham layed the foundation of a new Church in that place, he found such a mighty masse of money buried within the ground, as is thought by the Romans, that wallowing now in wealth, he gave over his Bishopricke: and being returned to Peterborrow whereof hee had beene Abbot before, made cau∣seies through the Fennes and raised other Workes, not without exceeding great charges.

And a long time after Anthony Bec, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem erected heere a Collegiat Church, a Deane, and seven Prebends. In which Church, [ E] the Lord Lumley abovesaid placed and ranged in goodly order the Monuments of his Ancestours in a continued line of succession even from Liulph unto these our daies; which he had either gotten together out of Monasteries that were subverted, or caused to bee made a new. And further within, almost in the middest of the Tri∣angle, there is another little Village also knowne of late by reason of the College of a Deane and Prebendaries founded by that Antony Bec at Lanchester, which I once thought to have beene LONGOVICUM a station of the Romanes.

But let us returne unto Were, which now at length turneth his course Eastward, and running beside Hilton a Castle of the Hiltons,* 1.39 a Family of ancient Gentry; venteth his waters with a vast mouth into the sea at Wiran-muth, as Bede tearmeth it, [ F] now named Monkes Were-mouth, because it belonged to the Monkes. Touching which mouth or out-let, thus writeth William of Malmesbury. This Were where hee entereth into the Sea, entertaineth Shippes brought in with a faire Gale of Winde, within the gentle and quiet bosome of his Out-let. Both the Bankes whereof, Benedict

[ A] Bishop beautified with Churches and built Abbaies there, one in the name of Saint Peter and the other of Saint Paul. The painfull industry of this man hee will wonder at, who shall reade his life; for that hee brought hither great store of bookes, and was the first man that ever procured Masons and Glasiers for windowes to come into England.* 1.40

Five miles higher, the River Tine doth also unlade it selfe, which together with Derwent for a good way lineth out (as it were) the North side of this Country. Up∣on Derwent which hath his spring head neere unto the top of the Triangle, there standeth nothing of note,* 1.41 unlesse it bee a little Village which now they call Ebche∣ster, of Ebba a virgin of the bloud royall of the Northumbers, of whom there went so great a name and opinion for her sanctimony and devotion about the yeere 630. [ B] that being canonized among the Saints, she hath many Churches in this Island de∣dicated unto her,* 1.42 which the common sort usually call Saint Tabbs for Saint Ebbes.

But by Tine there is situate a memorable Towne called Gateshead in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and by Latin Historians, Caprae Caput, which is the same, as one would say, Goates head: and is as it were the Suburbs of Newcastle, standing on the hether side of Tine, whereunto also it was annexed by King Edward the Sixth, when the Bishopricke was dissolved. But Queene Mary soone after restored it a∣gaine unto the Church. The common people thinke it is farre more ancient than Newcastle it selfe. And if I also should say, that this and Newcastle together (for one Towne it may seeme in old time to have beene, divided onely by the River) [ C] was that Frontier Station, which under the later Emperours they called GABRO∣SENTUM, and was kept by the second Band of the Thracians, and that it retai∣ned still the ancient name in sense and signification, whereas, New-castle hath got∣ten once or twice a new name, I hope my opinion would be nothing dissonant from the truth: For, Gaffr in the British tongue signifieth a Goat, and Hen in ordinary speech is used for Pen, which betokeneth an Head: and in the very same signification our old Historiographers tearme it in Latine Caprae Caput, like as Brundusium, in the Messapians Language tooke that name, from a Stagges head. I would thinke that this name was given unto this place, by occasion of some Inne that had a Goats head for the signe: even as Gallus Gallinaccus, that is, The Housecocke, Tres Sorores, that is, Three [ D] sisters, and Pirum, that is, The Peare, Places in Africke, Spaine, and Italie, whereof An∣tonine maketh mention: which, of such signes (as some learned men suppose) tooke their names. And our Historians all with one accord, name this Towne Caprae Caput, when they record, that Walcher Bishop of Durham, whom King William the First had made Governour over Northumberland with the authority of an Earle, was slaine in this place by the furious multitude, for misgoverning the Country.

Beneath this Towne,* 1.43 almost at the very mouth of Tine, is to be seene Girwy, now Iarrow, the native soile of venerable Bede, where also in ancient times flourished a little Monastery: The Founder whereof and the time of the foundation, this in∣scription sheweth, which is yet extant in the Church wall.

[ E]

DEDICATIO BASILICAE S. PAULI VIII. KL. MA II. ANNO XVI. ECFRIDI REG. CEOLFRIDI ABB. EIUSDEMQ. ECCLES. DEO AUCTORE, CONDITORIS ANNO IIII.

[ F] These greater Churches when the Saving light of Christ shone upon the world (let it not seeme impertinent to note so much by occasion of the word Basilica) were termed BASILICAE,* 1.44 for that the Basilicae of the Gentiles which were large and spa∣tious Hauls, wherein Magistrates sat in judgement and ministred Justice, were con∣verted into Christian Churches. Whence Ausonius wrote thus, Basilica olim nego∣tijs

plena, &c. The Basilica [or Haull of Justice] in times past full of businesses, is now as [ A] full of Praiers and vowes: or else because they were built in forme somewhat long, in manner of those Basilicae.

* 1.45Heere our Bede, the singular glory and ornament of England, who for his Piety and learning got the sirname of VENERABILIS, bestowed all diligence, as him∣selfe saith, in meditation of the Scriptures, and amid the most boisterous billowes and surging waves of Barbarisme wrote many most learned Volumes. When hee was once dead, there was buried with him, as William of Malmesbury saith, all the knowledge, well neere of Acts and Monuments, untill our time. For, when there succeeded ever one more lazie than another, the heat of good studies was abated, and cooled through the whole Land. And the Danes for their part, plagued this holy place in such wise, that short∣ly [ B] after the Conquest, when some in these Countries went in hand to reestablish the Monkes againe, and Walcher the Bishop assigned this place for them: Onely walles, as saith mine Authour, were standing without any roofe, and it scarcely retained any signe of the ancient dignity: howbeit for all that, they framing a roofe over head of rough hewen wood such as they could get, and thatching it with straw, beganne to celebrate Divine Ser∣vice therein.

* 1.46I neede not to make a Catalogue of the Bishops of Durham who are reputed Count-Palatines. Let it suffice to intimate thus much, that since the first time, a See was heere erected, in the yeere of our Redemption 995. there have sitten in it 35. Bishops unto our daies. Of which these were most eminent: Hugh Pudsey nobly [ C] descended, and allyed to King Stephen: who for a thousand and thirteene pounds pre∣sently disbursed, purchased of King Richard the First, the Country of Northumber∣land for his life;* 1.47 and Sathbrege, to his successours for ever, and built that goodly Ho∣spitall whereof I spake: betweene whom and the Archbishop there arose a most bitter controversie, Whiles (as he writeth of them) hic praesse, ille non subesse, & neuter prodesse contenderet, that is, One would bee superiour, the other would not bee inferiour, and neither of them would doe any good. Antony Bec, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who spent infinite summes of money, upon vast buildings, and glorious furniture. Thomas Wolsey Cardinall, who in his high prosperity wanted nothing but moderation (but his History is sufficiently knowne.) And Cuthbert Tunstall, who dyed in our time, [ D] for singular knowledge in the best Sciences, sincere holinesse of life, and great wis∣dome approved in domesticall, and forraigne imployments, was (without offence bee it spoken) equivalent to them all, and a singular Ornament to his native Coun∣trie.

In this Province and in Northumberland beside very many Chappels, are counted Parish Churches 118.

[illustration]

LANCASTRIAE Comitalus palatinus olim pars BRIGANTUM

[illustration]

Notes

• * 1.1

  Obsidianus lopi Canole cole▪
• * 1.2

  Saint Cuth∣berts Patri∣mony.
• * 1.3

  The River Teise, or Teisis.
• * 1.4

  Stretlham.
• * 1.5

  Bowes.
• * 1.6

  Ermin.
• * 1.7

  Raby Castle.
• * 1.8

  The family of the Nevils.
• * 1.9

  See in West∣morland.
• * 1.10

  Selaby.
• * 1.11

  Barons Coig∣niers.
• * 1.12

  Derlington.
• * 1.13

  Hell Kettles, Deepe pits.
• * 1.14

  Earth-quake.
• * 1.15

  Certaine Gen∣tlemen called Sur.
• * 1.16

  Teis i. upon Teis, sometime flourished here.
• * 1.17

  Gretham.
• * 1.18

  Hartlepoole.
• * 1.19

  A Promontory in our language is called Nesse.
• * 1.20

  The river Ve∣dra, or Were.
• * 1.21

  Witton.
• * 1.22

  Barons Evers. or D'Eure.
• * 1.23

  Auk-land.
• * 1.24

  Vinovium.
• * 1.25

  Binchester.
• * 1.26

  As concerning the Mother Goddesses. See in Lanca∣shire.
• * 1.27

  Anno Christi. 236.

  Votum solvit. li ben. merito .i. Paid his vow willingly and duly.
• * 1.28

  Branspath Castle.
• * 1.29

  Salt stones.
• * 1.30

  Dunelmus. Durham, or Duresme.
• * 1.31

  Gallilee.
• * 1.32

  For no woman might enter in∣to Durham Church.
• * 1.33

  Beere-parke. 1346.
• * 1.34

  Battaile of Nevils Crosse
• * 1.35

  Shrirburne Hospitall.
• * 1.36

  Finchdale.
• * 1.37

  Lumley. Barons Lum∣ley.
• * 1.38

  Chester upon the street. Condercum.
• * 1.39

  Hilton Castle.
• * 1.40

  Glasiers, first in England.
• * 1.41

  Ebchester. Saint Ebba.
• * 1.42

  Saint Tabbs.
• * 1.43

  Girwy. Iarrow. Bede.
• * 1.44

  Basilicae.
• * 1.45

  Saint Bede.
• * 1.46

  Bishops of Durham.
• * 1.47

  See the Earles of Northum∣berland.