Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.
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- Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.
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- Camden, William, 1551-1623.
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- London :: Printed by F. K[ingston] R. Y[oung] and I. L[egatt] for George Latham,
- 1637.
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"Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A17832.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 21, 2025.
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[ A] LINCOLNE-SHIRE.
VPon Rutland on the East side, confineth the County of LIN∣COLNE, called by the English-Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land, with some transposition of letters, but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE. A very large Country, as reaching almost threescore miles in length, and carrying in some places above thirty miles [ B] in bredth: passing kinde for yeeld of Corne, and feeding of Cattaile, well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes, and watered with many Rivers. Upon the Eastside, where it bendeth out∣ward with a brow fetching a great compasse, the German Ocean beateth on the shore: Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea: on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire: and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland. This whole Shire is divided into three parts, whereof one is called Holland: a second Kesteven, and the third Lindsey. Holland, which In∣gulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea, and like unto that Holland in Germanie, it is so throughly wet in most places with waters, that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it, [ C] and as one standeth upon it, the ground will shake and quake under his feet: and thence it may seeme to have taken the name: unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name, and the same imposed upon it, of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy.
This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea, which Ptolomee calleth METARIS,* 1.1 instead of Maltraith, and wee at this day, The Washes. A very large arme this is and passing well knowne, at every tide and high sea covered all over with water, but when the sea ebbeth, and the tide is past, a man may passe over it as on dry land, but yet not without danger. Which, King John learned with his losse. For, whilest he journied this way, when he warred upon the rebelli∣ous [ D] Barons, the waters suddenly brake in upon him, so that at Fosse-dyke, and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture, as Matthew of Westminster writeth.
This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land, as the Inhabitants beleeve, by sands heaped and cast together, they it terme Silt, is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea, and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries, in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the coun∣try are faine to keepe watch and ward continually, and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters, are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof. The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne, but plenty of grasse, and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle. [ E] The Soile throughout is so soft, that they use their Horses unshod: neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there, that hath not beene brought thither from other places: neverthelesse, there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone.
Certaine it is, that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country, and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rush∣ing, which are now two miles off from the shore, as also by the hils neere Sutterton, which they call Salt-Hils.* 1.2 But, of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places: neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits, which if they be of any great depth, presently become brackish, if shallow, they dry up as soone. [ F] Neither are there Quicksands wanting,* 1.3 which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast, as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger.
This Holland or Hoiland (whether you will) is divided into two parts. The Lower and the Higher: The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires, yea and most
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troublesome Fennes, which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot [ A] stalke through. And considering that it lieth very low and flat, fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean, on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely, with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same. Of which, Southybanke is of greatest name; which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part, when the Rivers swell, and all is overflowne by inundation, the people watch with great care and much feare, as against a dangerous enemy. And yet for the draining away of this water, the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges of the coun∣try beganne to make a new chanell at Clowcrosse in the yeere 1599. Neere unto this banke aforesaid,* 1.4 we saw Crowland, which also is called Croyland, a Towne of good note among the Fenne-people, the name whereof soundeth, as Ingulph the Abbat of [ B] this place interpreteth it, as much as A raw and muddy Land: A place, as they write, much haunted in times past with I wot not what sprites and fearefull apparitions, before that Guthlake a right holy and devout man led there an Eremits life. In whose memoriall Aethelbald King of the Mercians founded to the honour of God at his great charges, in the yeere of our Salvation 716. an Abbay very famous both for opinion of the religious life of the Monkes, and also for their wealth. Concerning which, take heere, if you please, these Verses of Foelix a Monke of good antiquity, out of the life of Guthlake.
Nunc exercet ibi se munificentia Regis, [ C] Et magnum templum magno molimine condit. At cum tam mollis, tam lubrica, tam malè constans Fundamenta palus non ferret saxea, palos Praecipit infigi quercino robore caesos, Leucarúmque novem spacio rate fertur arena; Inque solum mutatur humus, suffultáque tali Cella basi, multo stat consummata labore.His bounty now the King doth there bestow, [ D] An Abbay faire with much expense to reare. But seeing that the waterish Fenne below, Those ground-workes laid with stone uneath could beare, (So quaving soft and moist the Bases were) He caused piles made of good heart of oke, Pitch't downe to be with maine commanders stroke. Then nine leagues off, men sand in Barges brought, Which once fast ramm'd by painfull workmans hand, Of rotten earth good solid ground was wrought; On which for aye such workes might firmely stand; [ E] And thus by this devise of new plantation, The Church stands firme and hath a sure foundation.
* 1.5If I should exemplifie unto you out of that Monke, the Devils of Crowland, with their blabber lips, fire-spitting mouthes, rough and skaly visages, beetle heads, terri∣ble teeth, sharpe chins, hoarse throats, blacke skinnes, crump-shoulders, side and gor-bellies, burning loines, crooked and hawm'd legges, long tailed buttockes, and ugly mishapes, which heeretofore walked and wandered up and downe in these pla∣ces, and very much troubled holy Guthlake and the Monkes, you would laugh full merily: and I might bee thought a simple sily-one full worthily. Howbeit, in re∣gard [ F] of the admirable situation of this place, so farre different from all others in England, and considering the Abbay was so famous, I am well content to dwell a while in the description of these particulars. Amid most deepe Fennes and standing wa∣ters in a muddy and miry ground this Crowland lyeth so shut up and divided round
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[ A] about from all entrance, that there is no accesse to it, unlesse it bee on the North and East side, and that by narrow Cawsies. Seated it is for all the world, if I may re∣semble great and small things together, like unto Venice. Three streets it hath and those severed one from another by water courses betweene, planted thicke with willowes, and raised upon piles or postes pitched and driven downe deepe into the standing waters, having over them a triangle Bridge of admirable workmanship, under which for to receive the fall of the waters meeting in one confluence, the In∣habitants report there was a pit sunke of a mighty depth. Now, whereas beyond the Bridge in solum mutatur humus (as that Monke said) that is, The mould is chaunged, and is become firme and solid ground, there stood in times past that famous Abbay, and [ B] the same verily taking up but a small plot of ground: about which, all (save where the Towne standeth) is so rotten and moorish, that a man may thrust a pole downe right thirty foote deepe: and round about it every way is nothing but a plot of reeds; and next unto the Church a place planted with Alders. Howbeit, the Towne is well enough peopled with Inhabitants, who have their Cattaile a great way from the Towne, and when they are to milke them, they goe in little punts or boats that will carry but two a peece, (which they call Skerries:) yet the most gain∣full trade they have is by taking fish, and catching of water-foule; and that is so great, that in the moneth of August, they will spread a net and at once draw three thousand Mallards and wilde Duckes and such like together: and these pooles or watery plots [ C] of theirs, they use to terme their Corne fields: for, they see no Corne growing in five miles any way. In regard of this their taking of fish and fowle they paid yeerely in times past to the Abbat, as now they doe to the King, three hundred pounds of our money.
The private History of this Abbay I list not to relate (seeing it is commonly ex∣tant and to be seene) out of Ingulph now printed and published: yet my minde serves me well, briefely to record, that which Peter of Bloys Vice-chancellour to King Henry the Second reported at large, as touching the new building of this Abbay in the yeere of our Redemption 1112. to the end, that by this one president wee may learne, by what meanes and helpes, so mighty, so huge, and so faire religious houses [ D] were raised and built up in those times. Ioffrid the Abbat obtained of the Archbishops and Bishops in England, An Indulgence for the third part of penance enjoyned for sinnes committed, unto every one that helped forward so holy a worke. With this Indulgence he sent out Monkes every way and all about to gather money: wherewith when hee was now sufficiently furnished, to the end that hee might have an happy beginning of this worke from some happy names of lucky presage, hee solemnely appointed the day of Saint Perpetua, and of Saint Felicity, on which he would lay the first foun∣dation. At which day there came flocking in great numbers, the Nobles, the Pre∣lates, and Commons of all the Country thereabout. After the celebration of Di∣vine Service, and Anthems sung in parts, Abbat Ioffrid himselfe layed the first Corner [ E] stone Eastward; then the Noble men and great persons every one in their degree couched their stones, and upon the said stones some laid money, others their sealed Deeds of lands, Advousons of Churches, of Tenths of their Sheepe, and of the Tithes of their Churches, of certaine measures of wheat, and of a certaine number of Workemen, as Masons and Quarriers, whom they would pay. The common sort again and towneships for their parts, offered with chearefull devotion, some money, others one daies labour every moneth untill the worke were finished, some the buil∣ding of whole Pillars, others of the bases to the said Pillars, and others again to make certaine parts of the wals, striving a vie who should doe most. This done, the Ab∣bat after hee had in a solemne speech commended their devout bounty to so holy a [ F] worke, granted unto every one of them the fraternity of his Abbay, and the partici∣pation besides of all spirituall benefits in that Church: as praiers, blessings, &c. and so when he had entertained them with a very sumptuous feast, hee gave them his bles∣sing and dismissed them chearefully every man to his owne home. But I will dwell no longer in this matter. But hereby you may see how by small contributions great
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workes arose. From Crowland there goeth a Cawsey planted on both sides with Wil∣lowes, [ A] betweene the River Welland and the deepe Marishes, Northward: upon which, two miles from Crowland, I saw the fragment of a Piramis with this Inscription.
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
I SAY, THAT SAINT GUTH∣LAKE, [ B] THIS STONE HIS BOVND DOTH MAKE.
* 1.6Higher yet upon the same River is seated Spalding, enclosed round about with Ri∣verets and draines, a fairer Towne I assure you than a man would looke to finde in this Tract among such slabbes and water-plashes: where Ivo Talbois, whom Ingulph elsewhere calleth Earle of Anjou, gave an ancient Cell to the Monkes of Angiers in [ C] France. From hence as farre as to Deeping, which is ten miles off, Egelrick Abbat of Crowland, afterwards Bishop of Durham, made for the ease of travailers, as saith Ingulphus, through the middest of a vast Forest, and of most deepe Fennes, a sound causey of wood and sand, after his owne name called Elrich-road; which notwithstanding at this day is not to be seene.
In higher Hoiland that bendeth more into the North, first we have in sight Kirk∣ton, so named of the Church, which is passing faire; and then, where the River Wit∣ham hemnd in strongly with bankes on both sides runneth in a maine and full streame toward the sea,* 1.7 flourisheth Boston, more truely named Botolphs-towne. For, it carri∣ed that name from one Botolph a most holy and devout Saxon, who at Icanhoe, had a [ D] Monastery. A famous Towne this is, standing on both sides of the River Witham, which hath over it a wooden bridge of a great height; and well frequented by the meanes of a commodious haven unto it: the Mercat place is faire and large, and the Church maketh a goodly shew, as well for the beautifull building as the greatnesse thereof: the towre-steeple of it, which riseth up to a mighty height, doth, as one would say, salute passengers and travailers a great way off, and giveth direction also to the sailers. A lamentable overthrow it sustained in the Raigne of Edward the first. For, when bad and Ruffian-like behaviour rufled at that time over all England, cer∣taine military lusty fellowes having proclaimed heere a Justs or running at Tilt, at a Faire time, when there was much resort of people thither, came apparelled in the [ E] habit of Monkes and Chanons,* 1.8 set fire on the Towne in most places thereof, brake in upon Merchants with sodaine violence, tooke away many things by force, burnt a great deale more; in so much as our Historians write, that (as the ancient Writers re∣cord of Corinth when it was destroied) molten gold and silver ran downe in a streame together. The Ring-leader Robert Chamberlan, after hee had confessed the act, and what a shamefull deed had been committed, was hanged: yet could he not be wrought by any meanes to disclose his complices in this foule fault. But happier times raised Boston againe out of the ashes, and a staple for wooll here setled, did very much enrich it,* 1.9 and drew thither merchants of the Hanse Society, who had here their Guild. At this day it is for building faire, and by good trade rich. For, the Inhabitants give them∣selves [ F] both to merchandise and also to grasing.* 1.10 Nere unto this was the Barony de Cro∣eun or de Credonio, out of which family, Alan de Croeun founded the Priory of Freston; and at length Parnel heire of the family being twice married transferred no small in∣heritance, first to the Longchamps, which came to the Pedwardins; and secondly to John
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[ A] Vaulx, from whom the Barons Roos are descended. Beyond it scarce six miles, reach∣eth Holland: all which Ivo Talboys of Anjo•• received at the bountifull hands of king William the Conqueror,* 1.11 but Herward an English man, of good hope and full of douty courage, being sonne to Leofrick Lord of Brane or Burne not brooking his insolency, when he saw his owne and his Country mens safety now endangered; after he had received the cincture with a military Belt by Brann Abbat of Peterborough,* 1.12 whose stomacke rose also against the Normans, raised warre against him, oftentimes put him to flight, and at length carried him away captive, and suffered him not to bee ransomed but with such conditions that he might be received into the Kings favour, wherein he dyed his liege man. For so deserved his valour, which is alwayes com∣mended [ B] even in a very enemy. His Daughter being wedded to Hugh Enermeve Lord of Deping enjoyed his lands, which afterwards, as I understand, was devolved upon the Family of Wake,* 1.13 which being mightily enriched with the Possessions of the Estotevills, was of right great honour in these parts, untill the Raigne of Edward the Second: for then, by an heire Generall, their inheritance came by right of marriage unto Edmund of Woodstocke youngest sonne to King Edward the First, and Earle of Kent. But of a younger sonne, the ancient Family of the Wakes of Blisworth in Northampton-shire yet remaining is descended.
The second part of this Country commonly called Kesteven,* 1.14 and by Aethelward an ancient Authour, Ceostefnewood, adjoyning to Hoiland on the West side; is for aire [ C] farre more wholesome, and for Soile no lesse fruitfull. Greater this is and larger than the other, yea and garnished every where with more faire Townes. At the entry thereinto upon the river Welland standeth Stanford,* 1.15 in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, built of rough stone, whence it hath the name. A Towne well peopled and of great resort, endowed also with sundry immunities, and walled about; It gave Geld or Tribute, as wee reade in Domesday Booke, for twelve hundreds and an halfe, in the army, shipping, and Danegeld, and in it were sixe Wards. What time as King Edward the elder fortified the South bankes of Rivers against the Danes breaking by force into the Land out of the North parts, Marianus recordeth, that hee built a very strong Castle just over against this Towne also on the South banke (which now is [ D] called Stanford Baron) yet there appeareth not any one token thereof at this day: for,* 1.16 that Castle which in time of the civill Warre Stephen strengthened against Henry of Anjou, was within the Towne, as both the generall report holdeth, and the very plot also whereon it stood as yet remaining, sheweth. But soone after, the said Henry, being now King of England, gave the whole Towne of Stanford, which was in his Demaine, excepting the fees or Feifs of the Barons and Knights of the same Towne, unto Richard de Humez or Homets, who was Constable to the King, his Soveraigne Lord, for his homage and service. And the same afterwards, held William Earle of Warren by the will and pleasure of King John.
Under the Raigne of Edward the Third,* 1.17 an University, and publique profession [ E] of good learning beganne heere, which the Inhabitants count no small credit unto them. For, when there was such hote debate and contention betweene the Northren and Southren Students at Oxford, a great number of Scholers withdrew themselves hither: but after a small while they returned upon the Kings Proclamation, to Ox∣ford, and as they sodainely beganne, so they ended as soone this new University: And thenceforward provided it was by oth, That no Student in Oxford should pub∣liquely professe or reade at Stanford to the prejudice of Oxford. Neverthelesse it flouri∣shed with fresh trading and merchandise, untill the civill warre, betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke, grew so hore, that the Northren Souldiers breaking into the Towne destroyed all with fire and sword. Neither could it ever since that [ F] time fully recover the ancient Dignity. And yet now it is in good estate: and the civill government thereof consisteth of an Alderman and foure and twenty Burgesses his brethren. Beautified it is with seven Parish Churches or thereabout, and sheweth an old Hospitall and that a very faire house founded by William Browne a Burgesse there, besides another new one on this side the Bridge lately built by that Nestor of
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Britaine, Sir William Cecill Baron Burghley, what time as hee raised that stately and [ A] sumptuous house at Burghley, whereof I have spoken already in Northampton-shire, who lieth enterred here in a goodly and gorgeous Tombe within the Parish Church of Saint George; a man (to say nothing else of him) who by course of nature, and for his owne glory lived long enough, but in regard of his Country died oversoone.
Although some tokens remaining of antiquity, and the * 1.18 High-street, made by the Romans, which so soone as you are without the Towne leadeth you the direct way into the North, may sufficiently shew, that sometimes there was a Ferry or Waterfare heere.* 1.19 Yet that this Towne should be that GAUSENNAE, which Antonine the Emperour placeth not farre from hence, the said tokens of Antiquity doe not affoord sufficient proofe. But seeing that a mile from hence there is a little Village [ B] called Bridge-casterton (which very name carryeth with it the marke of Antiquity) where the River Guash or Wash crosseth the said High-street;* 1.20 the affinity of this name Guash with Gausenna, and the distance also making not against it, hath made mee to thinke that Gausennae was it which now is called Bridge-casterton, untill time bring truth to light. If I should thinke, that Stanford grew out of the ruines of this Towne, and that this part of the Shire was named Kesteven of GAUSENNAE, like as ano∣ther part, Lindsey, of the City Lindum, let this I pray you, bee but mine opinion, and judge yee thereof accordingly. It is supposed that this Gausennae was over∣throwne, when (as Henry Archdeacon of Huntingdon writeth) the Picts and Scots had spoiled all the Country, as farre as to Stanford: where Hengist and his English-Sa∣xons [ C] with their unwearied force and singular prowesse hindered the passage of those furious Nations, so that after many of them were slaine, and more taken prisoners, the rest betooke themselves to flight. But let us proceed to the rest.
On the East side of Kesteven which bendeth toward Hoiland, as wee goe North∣ward, these places stand in order:* 1.21 First, Deping, that is to say, (as Ingulph inter∣preteth it), Deepe Medow: Where, Richard de Rulos, Chamberlaine to William Conquerour, excluding the River Welland with raising up an high banke (for that it often overflowed) and building upon the said Banke many Tenements, made a great Vil∣lage. This Deping,* 1.22 or Deepe Medow, was very fitly so called, for, the plaine lying under it, and which taketh up in compasse many miles, is of all this fenny Country [ D] the deepest, and the very receptacle of most waters. And that which a man would mervaile at, it lyeth farre under the Chanell of the River Clen, which being held in with forced bankes,* 1.23 passeth by from out of the West. Then have you Burne, well knowne by occasion that King Edmund was crowned and the Wakes had a Castle there, who obtained unto this Towne, from King Edward the First, the liberty of a Mercate.
* 1.24More Eastward is Irnham, a seat of the Barony in times past of Sir Andrew Lutterell. Beyond it is Sempringham, famous in these daies by reason of that passing faire house, which Edward Lord Clinton, afterwards Earle of Lincolne built; but renowned in old time for the religious Order of the Gilbertines, instituted by Gilbert Lord of the place: [ E] for he, a wonderfull man, & in custodia mulierum gratiae singularis, that is, of singular grace in taking charge of women, in the yeere after Christs Nativity 1148. contrary to Justi∣nians Constitutions, which forbad Double Monasteries, that is to say, of men and wo∣men together; howbeit, well backed with the authority of Eugenius the third, Bi∣shop of Rome, ordained a Sect consisting of men and women; which so grew and encreased, that himselfe laied the foundations of thirteene religious houses of this Order,* 1.25 and whiles hee lived had in them 700. Gilbertine Brethren, and eleven hun∣dred Sisters; but no honester than they should be, if wee may beleeve Niele, a scof∣fing Poet in those daies, who wrote thus of them:
Harum sunt quadam steriles, quaedam parientes, Virgineóque tamen nomine cuncta tegunt. Qua pastoralis baculi dotatur honore, Illa quidem meliùs, fertiliúsque parit.
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[ A] Vix etiam quaevis sterilis reperitur in illis, Donec eis aetas talia posse negat. Some barren are of these, some fruitfull be, Yet they by name of Virgins cover all: More fertile sure and better beareth she, Who blest is once with croysier pastorall: Now, scarce of them is found one barren Doe, Till age debarre, whether they will or no.
Then see you Folkingham,* 1.26 which also is now a Lordship of the Clintons, the Baro∣ny [ B] in times past of the Gaunts, who were descended from Gilbert de Gaunt, nephew to Baldwin Earle of Flaunders, unto whom by the liberality of King William the Con∣querour there fell great revenewes. For, thus we reade in an old manuscript: Me∣morandum, that with William Conquerour there came in one Gilbert de Gaunt, unto whom the said William gave the Manour of Folkingham, with all the Appertenances and the Honour thereunto belonging: and they expelled a certaine woman named Dunmoch. Of the said Gilbert came one Walter de Gaunt his sonne and heire, and of the said Walter came Gilbert de Gaunt his sonne and heire, also Robert de Gaunt a younger sonne. And from the said Gilbert the sonne and heire, came Alice his daughter and heire, who was espoused to Earle Simon, and shee gave many Tenements to religious men, and dyed without [ C] heire of her owne body. Then descended the inheritance to Robert de Gaunt aforesaid her unckle: and of the foresaid Robert came Gilbert his sonne and heire, and of the aforesaid, came another Gilbert his sonne and heire, and of the aforesaid, came another Gilbert his sonne and heire, who gave the Manour of Folkingham with the Appertenances to Edward the sonne of Henry King of England.* 1.27 This Gilbert as wee finde in the Plees, out of which this Pedegree is prooved, claimed service against Wil. de Scremby. And at length it came by gift of the Prince to Sir Henry Beaumont: For, most certaine it is, that he held it in the Raigne of Edward the Second.* 1.28
Neere unto this, is Screkingham, remarkable for the death of Alfrick the second, Earle of Leicester, whom Hubba a Dane slew. Of which place, it seemeth that In∣gulph [ D] spake, writing thus: In Kesteven were slaine three great Lords or petty Kings of the Danes, whom they buryed in a Village which was called before, Laundon, but now for the Sepulture of three Kings, Tre-King-ham. And more into the East, is Hather, in this regard onely to be mentioned,* 1.29 that the Busseis or Busleis heere dwell, who deduce their Race from Roger de Busly in the Conquerours time. Then Sleford, a Castle of the Bi∣shops of Lincolne,* 1.30 built by Alexander the Bishop: where Sir John Hussy the first and last Baron of that name created by King Henry the Eighth, built himselfe an house: who having unwittingly and unadvisedly in the yeere 1537. engaged himselfe with the common people in a tumultuous commotion, what time as the first dissention brake out in England about Religion, lost his head. Not many miles from hence stan∣deth [ E] Kime,* 1.31 which gave name to a noble family called De Kime: but the possession of the place came at length to the Umfranvils: of whom three were called to the Par∣liament by the name of the Earles of Anguse in Scotland. But the first of them, the lear∣ned in our common lawes would not acknowledge to be Earle, (for that Anguse was not within the limits of the Realme of England) untill hee produced openly in Court the Kings Writ, by vertue whereof he had been summoned by the King to the Parli∣ament, under the Title of Earle of Anguse. From the Umfravils this came unto the family of Talbois,* 1.32 of whom Gilbert was created by King Henry the Eighth Baron Talbois, whose two sonnes dying without issue, the inheritance was by the females transferred to the Dimocks,* 1.33 Inglebeies, and others. More Westward wee saw Temple [ F] Bruer, that is, as I interprete it, Temple in the Heath. For it seemeth to have beene a Commaundery of the Templers: considering that the decayed broken Walles of the Church there are seene in forme of the New Temple at London. Hard to it lyeth Blankenay,* 1.34 the Barony in times past of the D'incourts, who flourished successively a long time one after another from the Normans comming in unto King Henry the
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Sixth his time: For then, their male line determined in one William, who had [ A] two sisters for his heires, the one married to Sir William Lovell, the other to Sir Ralph Cromwell.* 1.35 The more willingly have I made mention of this Family, to give satisfaction in some measure unto the longing desire of Edmond Baron D'eincourt, who long since being carefull and earnest about the preservation of the memory of his name, as having no male Issue, put up an humble Petition to King Edward the Second,* 1.36 Whereas hee foresaw that his sirname and Armes after his death would bee quite forgotten, and yet heartily desired that after his decease they might bee still remembred, that hee might bee permitted to enfeoffe whomsoever it pleased him, both in his Manours and Armes also. Which request hee obtained, and it was graunted under the Kings Let∣ters Patents: yet for all that is this sirname now quite gone (to my knowledge) and [ B] had it not beene continued by the light of learning, might have beene cleane forgotten for ever.
In the West part of Kesteven and the very confines of this Shire and Leicester∣shire, standeth Belvoir,* 1.37 or Beauvoir Castle, so called of the faire prospect (what name soever it had in old time) mounted upon the top of a good steepe hill, built by Robert De Todeneie a Norman Nobleman,* 1.38 who also beganne the little Mona∣stery adjoyning, from whom by the Albeneies out of little Britaine, and the Ba∣rons Roos, it came by inheritance to the Mannors Earles of Rutland: of whom the first, that is to say, Thomas, as I have beene enformed, raised it up againe with newbuildings from the ground, when as it had for many yeeres lien buryed as [ C] it were in his owne ruines. For, in despite of Thomas Lord Roos, who tooke part with King Henry the Sixth, it was much defaced by William Lord Hastings, unto whom (after that the said Baron Roos was attainted) King Edward the Fourth had graunted it with very faire Lands. But Edmond Baron Roos sonne of the said Thomas, by the gracious favour of king Henry the seventh recovered this ancient Inheritance againe.* 1.39 About this Castle are found the Stones called Astroites, which resemble little Starres joyned one with another, wherein are to bee seene at every corner five Beames or Rayes, and in every Ray in the middest is small hollownesse. This Stone among the Germanes got his name of Victorie, for that, as George Agri∣cola writeth in his Sixth Booke of Mineralls, they are of opinion, that whoso∣ever [ D] carryeth it about him shall winne his suite and get victory of his enemies. But whether this Stone of ours, as that in Germany, being put in vineger, will stirre out of his place, and turne it selfe some-what round, I could never yet make tryall. Under this Castle lyeth a Vale and presenteth a most pleasant pro∣spect thereunto,* 1.40 whereupon it is commonly called, the Vale of Belver, which is very large and passing pleasantly beautified with Corne fields, and no lesse rich in pastures; lying stretched out in three Shires, of Leicester, Nottingham and Lincolne.
If not in this very place, yet hard by it, in all probability, stood that MARGI∣DUNUM,* 1.41 which Antonine the Emperour placeth next after VERNOMETUM, [ E] as both the name and the distance also from VERNOMETUM and the Towne PONT or Paunton, betweene which Antonine placeth it, may most plainly shew. It should seeme that ancient name Margidunum was borowed from Marga and the situation of it:* 1.42 For, Marga among the Britans is a kinde of earth named Marle wherewith they nourished and kept their grounds in heart: and DUNUM, which signifieth an Hill, agreeth onely to places higher mounted than others. And yet in this Etymology of the name I am in a doubt, seeing that Marle in this place is very geason or skant (happily because no man seeketh for it) unlesse the Britans by the name of Marga tearmed Plaister-stone, which is digged uppe hard by, as I have learned: the use whereof in white pargetting and in making [ F] of Images, was of especiall request among the Romans, as Plinie witnesseth in his Naturall History.
* 1.43Witham a River plentifull in Pikes but carrying a small streame, watereth this part of the Shire and on the North-side encloseth it. It hath his beginning by a
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[ A] little towne of the same name,* 1.44 not farre from the ruines of Bitham Castle, which, as we find in an old Pedigree King William the first gave to Stephen Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse, that he might from thence have wherewith to feed his sonne, as yet a little infant, with fine wheat bread (considering that in Holdernesse they did eate in those daies oten bread onely, although they use now such kind of bread little or nothing at all.* 1.45) But in the reigne of King Henry the Third, when William de Fortibus Earle of Aumarle rebelliously kept this Castle, and thence forraged and wasted the country about it, it was laid well neere even with the ground. Afterward, this was the capitall seat,* 1.46 as it were, of the Barony of the Colvils, who along time flourished in very great honour: but the right line had an end under King Edward the Third: [ B] and then the Gernons and those notable Bassets of Sapcot, in right of their wives entred upon the inheritance.
This river Witham presently beneath his head hath a towne seated hard by it na∣med Paunton,* 1.47 which standeth much upon the antiquity thereof, where are digged up oftentimes pavements of the Romanes wrought with checker worke: and heere had the river a bridge over it in old time:* 1.48 For, that this is the towne AD PONTEM, which Antonine the Emperor placed seven miles distant from MARGIDUNUM, the name Paunton, together with the distance not onely from Margidunum but also from Crococalana doth easily convince:* 1.49 for in Antonine, that towne was called CROCO∣CALANA, which at this day is named Ancaster,* 1.50 and is no more but a long streete, [ C] through which the High-way passeth: whereof the one part not long since belonged to the Veseies, the other to the Cromwells. At the entry into it on the South part, we saw a rampier with a ditch, and certaine it is, that aforetime it had been a Castle: like as on the other side Westward, is to be seene a certaine summer standing campe of the Romanes. And it may seeme that it tooke a British name from the situation thereof. For it lieth under an hill: and Cruc-maur in British signifieth a Great hill, like as Cruc-occhidient, a mount in the West, as we read in Giraldus Cambrensis, and Ninnius: But what should be the meaning of that Calana, let others looke. The memory of an∣tiquity in this towne is continued and maintained by the Romane Coines, by the vaults under ground oftentimes discovered, by the site upon the High-street, and by [ D] those fourteene miles that are betweene it and Lincolne through a greene plaine, which we call Ancaster-Heath; for, just so many doth Antonine reckon betweene Croco-calana and Lindum. But now returne we to the river.
After Paunton,* 1.51 wee come to Grantham, a towne of good resort, adorned and set out with a Schoole built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester, and with a faire Church, having a spire-steeple of a mighty heigth, whereof there goe many fabu∣lous tales.
Beneath it, neere unto Herlaxton a little village, a brasen vessell in our fathers time was turned up with a plough,* 1.52 wherein a golden Helmet of a most antique fashion was found, set with precious stones: which was given as a present to Catherine of [ E] Spaine, wife and Dowager to King Henry the Eighth. From hence Witham passeth with a long course North-ward not farre from Somerton Castle:* 1.53 which Antonine Becc,* 1.54 Bishop of Durham built, and gave to King Edward the First: but a little after it was bestowed upon Sir Henry de Beaumont, who about that time came into Eng∣land and began the family of the Lords Beaumont:* 1.55 which in the foregoing age in some sort failed, when as the sister and heire of the last Vicount was married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh. But of this house I have spoken before in Leicester-shire. From thence, the river bending by little and little to the South-East, and passing through a Fenny Country, dischargeth it selfe into the German Sea beneath Boston, after it hath closed in Kesteven on the North.
[ F] On the other side of Witham,* 1.56 lieth the third part of this shire, named Lindsey, which, of the chiefe Citie of the Shire Bede called Lindissi: and being greater than Hoiland and Kesteven, butteth with a huge bowing front upon the Ocean, beating upon the East and North sides thereof. On the West part it hath the river Trent, and is seve∣red from Kesteven; on the South by that Witham aforesaid, and the Fosse Dike ancient∣ly
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cast and scoured by King Henry the First for seven miles in length from Witham [ A] into Trent,* 1.57 that it might serve the Citizens of Lincolne for carriage of necessaries by water.
* 1.58Where this Dike entreth into Trent, standeth Torksey, in the Saxon language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, a little towne, and in these daies of small account, but in ancient times very famous.* 1.59 For, before the Normans comming in, as we finde in that booke where∣in King William the first set downe his survey of England, there were numbered in it two hundred Burgesses, who enjoyed many priviledges, on this condition, that they should transport the Kings Embassadours whensoever they came this way in their owne Barges along the Trent, and conduct them as farre as YORKE. But where this Dike joyneth to Witham, there is the principall City of this Shire placed: [ B] which Ptolomee and Antonine the Emperour called LINDUM, the Britans LIND∣COIT,* 1.60 of the woods (for which we finde it elsewhere written amisse Luit-coit) Bede, LINDE-COLLINUM, and LINDE COLLINA CIVITAS, whether it were of the situation upon an hill, or because it hath been a Colonie, I am not able to avouch. The Saxons termed it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Normans most corruptly Nichol, we Lincolne, and the Latine writers Lincolnia: whereupon Alexander Necham in his booke intituled, Divine wisdome, writeth thus,
Lindisiae columen Lincolnia, sive columna, Munificâ foelix gente, repleta bonis. [ C] Lincolne the stay or piller sure of Lindsey thou maist bee, Blest for thy people bounteous, and goods that are in thee.
Others will have it to take that name of the river Witham, which they say was called by a more ancient name Lindis, but they have no authority to warrant them. Neither am I of their judgement: For, Necham is against it, who foure hundred yeeres agoe called the said river, Witham in this verse.
Trenta tibi pisces mittit Lincolnia, sed te, Nec dedigneris, Withama parvus adit. [ D] The Trent unto thee sendeth fish, O Lincoln, well we see; Yet little Witham, scorne it not, a riveret comes to thee.
I for my part would rather derive it from the British word Lhin, which with the Britans signifieth a Lake. For, I have been enformed of the Citizens, that Witham be∣low the Citie, by Swanpole was broader than now it is, and yet is it at this day of a good breadth: and to say nothing of Lindaw in Germanie, by the Lake Acronius, and of Linternum in Italie standing by a Lake; I see that in our Britaine, Tallhin, Glan-lhin, and Lhinlithquo, are townes by lakes sides. This Citie it selfe being large, well in∣habited and frequented, standeth upon the side of an hill, where Witham bendeth his [ E] course Eastward, and being divided with three small chanels, watereth the lower part of the Citie. That the ancient LINDUM of the Britans stood on the very top of the hill, which had a very hard ascent up to it, and reached out beyond the gate called Newport, the expresse tokens of a rampier and deepe ditches which are yet ve∣ry evident, doe plainely shew.
In this City, Vortimer that warlike Britan, who many a time discomfited the Saxons and put them to flight, ended his daies, and was heere contrary to his owne comman∣dement, buried. For, he was in a full and assured hope perswaded, that if he were en∣terred in the sea shore, his very ghost was able to protect the Britans from the Saxons, as writeth Ninius, the disciple of Elvodugus. But the English Saxons after they had [ F] rased this old Lindum, first possessed themselves of the South side of the hill, at the foot whereof they built, as it seemeth, the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones; and with the ruines of that more ancient Towne fortified it. Afterwards they went downe lower to the river side, built in a place that was called Wickanford, and walled
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[ A] it about on that side which is not fensed by the River: At which time, as saith Bede, Paulinus preached the Word of God unto the Province of Lindsey, and first of all converted unto the Lord, the Governour or Provost of Lincolne City, whose name was Blecca, with his family. In which very City, hee built also a Church of goodly stone worke, the roofe whereof being either fallen for want of repaire, or cast downe by the violent hand of enemies, the walles are seene standing to this day. After this the Danes wonne it by assault once or twice: First, those troupes of spoiling mates, out of whose hands King Edmund Iron∣side wrested it by force: then Canutus from whom Aetheldred regained it, when up∣on his returne out of Normandy, he valiantly forced Canutus to abandon the towne, and beyond all hope recovered England which before was lost. In the Raigne of [ B] Edward the Confessour, there were in it, as Domesday booke recordeth, a thousand and seventy Mansions, with lodgings to give entertainment, and twelve Lage men having Sac, and Soc. But in the Normans time, as saith William of Malmesbury, It was one of the best peopled Cities of England, and a place of traffique and merchandise, for all commers by sea and land: and as the same Domesday booke saith, there were at that time counted and taxed in this City 900. Burgesses: and many Mansions were laied waste, 166. for the Castle, and other 74. without the precinct of the Castle, not through the oppression of the Sheriffe and his Ministers, but by reason of mishap, poverty, and casualty by fire. The said King William the Conqueror for the strengthning of it and terrour of the Citizens, raised a pas∣sing large and strong Castle upon the brow of the hill: and almost at the very same [ C] time, Remigius Bishop of Dorchester for to give credit and ornament thereto translated hither his Episcopall seat from Dorchester, which was in the most remote corner of his Dioecesse and a small Towne. And when by this time that Church which Pauli∣nus had built was quite gone to decay, the same Remigius having purchased certaine houses with grounds lying unto them, in the very highest place of the City, neere unto the Castle (as Henry of Huntingdon saith) mounting up aloft with high and stately towres, built in a strong place a strong Church, in a faire plot a faire Church, and dedicated it to the Virgin of Virgins; notwithstanding the Archbishop of Yorke was enraged thereat, who chalenged to himselfe the propriety of the soile: and in it ordained 44. Prebendaries. Which Church after∣wards being sorely defaced with fire, as he saith, Alexander that most bountiful Bishop of Lin∣colne [ D] repaired, with skilfull artificiall workemanship. Of whom William of Malmesbury reporteth, because for his little low stature hee was a dwarfe among men, his minde laboured to rise aloft and shew it selfe to the world, with outward workes. And as concerning his boun∣ty a Poet of that time among other things wrote thus:
Qui dare festinans gratis, ne danda rogentur, Quod nondum dederat, nondum se credit habere. Who hastening frankly for to give, for feare that folke should crave: He never thought that he had that which yet he never gave.
[ E] Besides these two Bishops already mentioned Robert Bloet who sat there before Alexander, R. de Beaumeis, Hugh a Burgundian and their Successours, by little and little brought this Church, which could not bee one Bishops worke, to the stately magnificence that now it carryeth. Certes, as it is built, it is all throughout not one∣ly most sumptuous, but also passing beautifull, and that with rare and singular work∣manship: but especially that fore-front at the West end, which in a sort ravisheth and allureth the eyes of all that come toward it. In this Church, although there bee di∣vers Monuments of Bishops and others, yet these onely seeme memorable: That of Copper wherein the bowels of that right noble and vertuous Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First are bestowed, who died at Hardby in this Shire: as also these [ F] following, wherein lye interred Sir Nicolas Cantlow, one or two of the Family of Burghersh: Lady Catherine Swinford the third wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the house of Somerset, with whom lyeth buryed Joan her daughter, se∣cond wife to Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmerland, who enriched her husband with many happy children.
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The Bishops Diocesse of Lincolne not content with those streit limits, where∣with [ A] the Bishops of Sidnacester,* 1.61 who had Episcopall jurisdiction over this shire con∣tented themselves in the Primitive Church of the English Nation, conteined under it so many countries, as that the greatnesse thereof was burdenous unto it: And al∣though King Henry the Second tooke out of it the Province of Ely, and King Henry the Eighth the Bishopricks of Peterbourgh, and of Oxford, yet still at this day it is counted the greatest Diocesse by farre of all England, both for jurisdiction and num∣ber of shires: and the Bishop hath in his Diocesse one thousand two hundred forty seven Parish Churches.
Many and great Bishops since Remigius his time have governed this See, whom to reckon up is no part of my purpose. For, I will not insist either upon Robert Bloet, [ B] from whom King William Rufus wrung 50000. pounds, for securing his title in the very City of Lincolne it selfe, which was found defective: nor upon that prodigall and profuse Alexander, who in exceeding stately buildings was so excessively deligh∣ted: ne yet upon Hugh the Burgundian Canonized a Saint,* 1.62 whose corps King John, with his Nobles and friends about him to performe (as mine author saith) a dutifull service to God and that holy Saint, late Bishop, carried upon their shoulders to his buriall. How∣beit, the memory of two Prelates I must needs renew afresh: the one is Robert Grosthead,* 1.63 a man so well seene both in literature and in the learned tongues, in that age, as it is incredible: and to use the words of one then living, A terrible reproover of the Pope, an adviser of his Prince and Soveraigne, a lover of verity, a corrector of Prelates, [ C] a director of Priests, an instructor of the Clergy, a maintainer of Schollers, a Preacher to the people, a diligent searcher into the Scriptures, a mallet of the Romanists, &c. The other is mine owne Praeceptor, whom in all duty I must ever love and honour, that right re∣verend Father Thomas Cooper, who hath notably well deserved both of all the learned and also of the Church, in whose Schoole I both confesse and rejoice that I received education. The City it selfe also flourished a long time: being ordained by King Edward the Third for the Staple,* 1.64 as they tearme it, that is, the Mart, of Wooll, Lea∣ther, Lead, &c. Which although it hath not been over-laied with any grievous ca∣lamities, as being once onely set on fire, once also besieged in vaine by King Ste∣phen, who was there vanquished and taken prisoner, forced also and won by King [ D] Henry the Third, when the rebellious Barons, who had procured Lewis of France to chalenge the Crowne of England, defended it against him, without any great dam∣mage; yet incredible it is how much it hath been empaired by little and little, con∣quered as it were with very age and time: so that of fifty Churches which it had standing in our Great-grandfathers daies, there are now remaining scarce eighteene. It is remooved, that I may note this also, from the Aequator, 53. degrees and 12. scru∣ples: and from the West point, 22. degrees and 52. scruples.
* 1.65As that Street-way called Highdike goeth on directly from Stanford to Lincolne, so from hence Northward it runneth with an high and streight causey, (though heere and there it be interrupted) forward for ten miles space to a little Village called the [ E] Spittle in the Street, and beyond: By the which as I passed, I observed moreover, about three miles from Lincolne, another High-port-way also, called Ould-street, to turne out of this High dike Westward, carrying a bancke likewise evident to be seene, which, as I take it, went to AGELOCUM, the next baiting towne, or place of lodging, from LINDUM, in the time of the Romanes. But I will leave these, and proceed in the course that I have begun.
Witham being now past Lincolne, runneth downe not far from Wragbye, a member of the Barony called Trusbut,* 1.66 the title whereof is come by the Barons Roos un∣to the Mannours now Earles of Rutland. Then approcheth it to the ruines of a fa∣mous Abbay in times past called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.67 commonly Bardney; where Bede wri∣teth, [ F] that King Oswald was Entombed, with a Banner of gold and purple hanged over his Tombe. The writers in the foregoing age, thought it not sufficient to celebrate the memory of this most Christian worthy King Oswald, unlesse unto his glorious exploits they stitched also ridiculous miracles. But that his hand remained heere
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[ A] uncorrupted many hundred yeeres after, our Ancestours have beleeved, and a Poet of good antiquity hath written in this wise,
Nullo verme perit, nulla putredine tabet Dextra viri, nullo constringi frigore, nullo Dissolvi fervore potest; sed semper eodem Immutata statu persistit, mortua vivit. The mans right hand by no worme perisht is, No rottennesse doth cause it putrifie; No binding cold can make it starke, ywis, [ B] Nor melting heat, dissolve and mollifie; But alwayes in one state persist it will Such as it was: though dead, it liveth still.
This Abbay,* 1.68 as writeth Peter of Bloys, being sometime burnt downe to the ground by the Danes furious outrage, and for many revolutions of yeeres altogether forlorne, that no∣ble and devout Earle of Lincolne Gilbert de Gaunt reedified, and in most thankfull affecti∣onate minde assigned unto it with many other possessions, the tithes of all his Manours where∣soever throughout England. Then, is Witham encreased with Ban a little River, which out of the midst of Lindsey runneth downe,* 1.69 first by Horne Castle, which belonged in [ C] times past to * 1.70 Adeliza of Condie, and was laid even with the ground in the Raigne of Stephen, afterwards became a capitall seat of the Barony of Gerard de Rodes, and pertaineth now, as I have heard, to the Bishop of Carlile: From thence, by Scrivel∣by, a Manour of the Dimockes who hold it hereditarily devolved upon them from the Marmions,* 1.71 by Sir J. Ludlow, and that by service, (to use now the Lawyers words) Of Grand Serjeanty,* 1.72 viz. That whensoever any King of England is to bee crowned, then the Lord of this Manour, for the time being, or some one in his name (if himselfe bee unable) shall come well armed for the warre,* 1.73 mounted upon a good horse of service, in presence of the Soveraigne Lord the King upon his Coronation day; and cause Proclamation to bee made, that if any man will avouch that the said Soveraigne Lord the King, hath not right to his [ D] Kingdome and Crowne, he will be prest and ready to defend the right of the King, of his King∣dome, of his Crowne and dignity, with his body, against him, and all others whatsoever. Some∣what lower,* 1.74 The Ban at Tatteshall a little Towne standing in a Marish Country, but ve∣ry commodiously, well knowne by reason of the Castle, built for the most part of bricke, and the Barons thereof, runneth into Witham. They write that Eudo and Pinso two Noblemen of Normandy, loving one another entirely as sworne brethren, by the liberall gift of King William the Conquerour received many Lordships and faire lands in this tract, which they parted so, as that Tatteshall fell to Eudo, which he held by Barony, from whose posterity it came by Dryby and the Bernacks unto Sir Raulph Cromwell,* 1.75 whose sonne bearing the same name, and being under King Henry [ E] the Sixth Lord Treasurer of England, departed out of this world without issue: but unto Pinso fell Eresby,* 1.76 which is not farre off: From whose progeny, the inheritance descended by the Becks unto the Willoughbeies: unto whom there came also an en∣crease both of honour, and also of faire Livelods by their wives, not onely from the Uffords Earles of Suffolke;* 1.77 but also from the Lords of Welles, who brought with them very faire possessions and lands of the family de Engain Lords of ancient Nobi∣lity, and from the first comming in of the Normans of great power in these parts. A∣mong these Willoughbeis one excelled all the rest in the Raigne of Henry the Fifth, na∣med Sir Robert Willoughby, who for his martiall prowesse was created Earle of Van∣dosme in France, and from these by the mothers side descended Peregrine Berty, Baron [ F] Willoughby of Eresby, a man for his generous minde and military valour renowned both in France, and the Low-countries. Witham now approching neere unto the Sea, enter∣taineth out of the North another small namelesse River; at the spring head where∣of standeth Bollingbroke Castle, situate upon a low ground, and built of a soft and crumbling stone by William de Romara Earle of Lincolne, taken from Alice Lacey by
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King Edward the Second, because she married against his will; and ennobled in that [ A] it was the Birth-place of King Henry the Fourth, who thereof was named Henry of Bollingbroke.* 1.78 At which time it beganne to be reckoned among those Honorable Ma∣nours, which are termed Honours. And Witham, after it hath received this Riveret, having passed through Boston, as I have said, dischargeth it selfe at length into the German Sea.
From the mouth of Witham the shore shutteth forth with a mighty swelling bent into the German Sea, as farre as to Humber a great Arme of the Sea, being every where slashed and indented with many small Washes and places which the salt wa∣ter breaketh into: and hath but few Townes upon it, because there be few Havens there: and the shelves or barres of sand lie every where anenst the land. Yet of these [ B] few Townes which take up this Coast,* 1.79 some be memorable: and Wainefleet especially, if it were but for this cause onely, that it bred William Wainfleet Bishop of Winchester, a worthy Prelat, founder of Mawdlen College in Oxford, a man that singularly well deserved of learning.* 1.80 Then Alford, which for the Mercate is beholden to Lion Lord Welles, who obtained for it this priviledge from King Henry the Sixth. This Family of Welles, was very ancient and honourable: and the last of that name had to wife a daughter of King Edward the Fourth, and being by King Henry the Seventh crea∣ted Vicount Welles, died having no issue. But the inheritance, by the Females came to the Willoughbeys,* 1.81 Dimockes, De la Launds, Hoes, and others. More inward are Driby and Ormesby neighbour Townes, which gave sirnames to two great families in their [ C] times; from the Dribyes descended the elder Lords Cromwell, now determined, and from Ormesbyes the house of Skipwith, still continuing. After this, ye have Louth a little Mercate Towne well frequented, which had the name of Lud a small River, that run∣neth under Cokerington the capitall place in times past of the Barony of Scoteney. And then Grimsby,* 1.82 which our Sabins or conceited persons dreaming what they list, and following their owne fansies, will have to be so called of one Grime a Merchant, who for that hee had brought up a little foundling of the Danes royall blood named Haveloke, when it had beene cast forth to perish, or to take his lucke or fortune, is much talked of, together with Haveloke that lucky foster-childe of his: who having beene first a skullen in the Kings kitchin, and afterwards promoted to the marriage [ D] of the Kings daughter for his heroicall valour in feates of Armes, and I wot not what, worthy exploits. A narration right well beseeming and meetest for them that take pleasure to passe out the long nights with telling of old wives tales. But the honour and ornament of this place was the right reverend Doctour Whitgift late Archbishop of Canterbury, a peerelesse Prelate for piety and learning in our daies.
Scarce six miles from hence, more within the country there sheweth it selfe an an∣cient Castle,* 1.83 which at this day is called Castor, in the old English Saxons Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and Thong-caster, in British Caer Egarry: in both languages it is aptly named so of the thing,* 1.84 to wit, of an hide cut into peeces, like as Byrsa, that Castle or Citadell of the Carthaginians so well knowne. For, our Annales record, that Hengist the [ E] Saxon, after he had vanquished the Picts and Scots, and received very large possessions in other places, obtained also in this tract of Vortigern, so much ground as hee could compasse round about with an Oxe hide cut out into very small laners, that we call Thongs, wherein he founded and built this Castle. Whence it is that one, who hath written in verse a Breviary of the British History, turned Virgils verses in this maner.
Accepítque solum, facti de nomine * 1.85 Thongum, Taurino quantum poter at circundare tergo. And ground he tooke, which Thong he call'd when he did first begin, As much as he, a Bull hide cut could well enclose within. [ F]
From Grimsby, the Shore draweth in with a great reach to make way for to admit Humber,* 1.86 by Thornton a religious house in times past instituted for the Worship of God, by William the Grosse Earle of Aumarle: also by Barton, where there is a very
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[ A] notable Ferry or passage over into York-shire.* 1.87 Hard by, Ankam a little muddy River, and therefore full of Eeles, emptieth it selfe into Humber: neere unto the spring-head whereof is Merket-Rasin, so called of a Mercate there well resorted unto. Somewhat higher stands Angotby, now corruptly called Osgodby belonging in times past to the family of Semarc, from whom it descended hereditarily to the Airmins: also Kelsay, a Lordship in old time of the Hansards, men of great name in this shire, from whom in right of the wives it came to the family of the Ascoghs, Knights. But after this, An∣kam hath a bridge over it, at Glanford, a small Mercate Towne, which the common people, of the said bridge, so commonly call Brigg, that the true name is almost quite forgotten.* 1.88 Next unto it, within a Parke I saw Kettleby the seat of the worshipfull anci∣ent [ B] family of the Tirwhits, Knights, descended from Grovil Oxenbridge, and Eching∣ham. But in times past it was the habitation, as a man may gather by the name, of one Ketell (which was in the time of the Saxons and Danes an usuall name).* 1.89 For Bye in the English-Saxon language signifieth A dwelling place, and Byan, To dwell: whence it is that so many places both elsewhere in England, and heere especially in this Shire doe end in Bie.
All this Tract-over at certaine seasons, good God, what store of fowles (to say no∣thing of fishes) is heere to be found! I meane not those vulgar birds which in other places are highly esteemed and beare a great price,* 1.90 as Teales, Quailes, Woodcockes, Phesants, Partridges, &c. but such as we have no Latine names for, the very delicate [ C] dainties, indeed, of service, meates for the Demigods, and greatly sought for by these that love the tooth so well,* 1.91 I meane, Puitts, Godwitts, Knotts, that is to say Canu∣tus or Knouts birds, (for, out of Denmarke they are thought to fly thither), Dotterels, so named of their dotish foolishnesse, which being a kinde of birds as it were of an apish kinde, ready to imitate what they see done, are caught by candle light accor∣ding to fowlers gesture; if he put forth an arme, they also stretch out a wing: sets he forward his legge, or holdeth up his head, they likewise doe theirs: in briefe, what ever the fowler doth, the same also doth this foolish bird untill it bee hidden within the net. But these things I leave to their observation, who either take plea∣sure earnestly to hunt after Natures workes, or being borne to pamper the belly de∣light [ D] to send their estates downe the throat.
More Westward, the River Trent also after he hath ended his long course, is recei∣ved into the Humber, after it hath with his sandy banke bounded this shire from Fosse∣dike hither;* 1.92 having runne downe first not farre from Stow, where Godive the wife of Earle Leofricke built a Monastery; which for the low site that it hath under the hills, Henry of Huntingdon saith to have beene founded Vnder the Promontory of Lincolne: Then,* 1.93 neere unto Knath, now the habitation of Baron Willoughy of Parrham, in times past of the family of the Barons Darcy, who had very much encrease both in honor and also of possessions by the daughter and heire of the Meinills. This Family of the Darcyes proceeded from another more ancient, to wit, from one whose name was [ E] Norman de Adrecy or Darcy de Nocton,* 1.94 who flourished in high reputation under King Henry the Third; and whose successours endowed with lands the little Nunnery at Alvingham in this County. But this dignity is as it were extinct, for that the last Norman in the right line which is more ancient,* 1.95 left behinde him onely two sisters: of which the one was married to Roger Pedwardine, the other to Peter of Limbergh.
Then runneth the Trent downe to Gainesborrow,* 1.96 a towne ennobled by reason of the Danes ships that lay there at rode, and also for the death of Suene Tiugs-Kege, a Danish Tyrant, who after he had robbed and spoiled the country, as Matthew of Westminster writeth, being heere stabbed to death by an unknowne man, suffered due punishment at length for his wickednesse and villany. Many a yeere after this, it became the [ F] possession of Sir William de Valence Earle of Pembroch, who obtained for it of king Ed∣ward the First the liberty to keepe a Faire: From which Earle by the Scottish Earles of Athol,* 1.97 and the Piercies, descended the Barons of Bourough who heere dwelt: con∣cerning whom I have written already in Surry. In this part of the Shire stood long since the City Sidnacester,* 1.98 which affoorded a See to the Bishops of this Tract, who
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were called the Bishops of Lindifars: But this City is now so farre out of all sight [ A] and knowledge, that together with the name the very ruines also seeme to have pe∣rished, for by all my curious enquiry, I could learne nothing of it.
Neither must I overpasse, that in this Quarter, at Melwood there flourished the fa∣mily of Saint Paul, corruptly called Sampoll, Knights; which I alwaies thought to have beene of that ancient Castilion race of the Earles of Saint Paul in France. But, the Coat-Armour of Luxemburgh, which they beare, implieth that they are come out of France since that the said Castilion stocke of Saint Paul,* 1.99 was by marriage im∣planted into that of Luxemburgh, which happened two hundred yeeres since or thereabout.
Above this place the Rivers of Trent, Idell and Dane doe so disport themselves with [ B] the division of their streames, and Marishes caused by them and other Springs, as they enclose within them the River-Island of Axelholme,* 1.100 in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is a parcell of Lincolne-shire. It carryeth in length from South to North ten miles, and in breadth not past halfe so much. The flat and lower part of it toward the Rivers is marish ground,* 1.101 and bringeth forth an odoriferous kinde of shrub which they tearme Gall. It yeeldeth also Pets in the Mores, and dead rootes of fir∣wood which in burning give a ranke sweet savour. There also have beene found great and long firre-trees while they digged for Pet, both within the Isle, and also without,* 1.102 at La••ghton upon Trent banke, the old habitation of the family of D'alanson, now contractly called Dalison. The middle parts of this Isle, where it riseth gently [ C] with some ascent is fruitefull and fertile, and yeeldeth flax in great aboundance: also the Alabaster stone,* 1.103 and yet the same being not very solide but brittle, is more meet for pargetting and plaister-worke, than for other uses. The chiefe Towne called in old time Axel, is now named Axey, whence, by putting to the Saxon word Holme, which they used for a River-Island, the name no doubt was compoun∣ded. But scarce deserveth it to bee called a Towne, it is so scatteringly inhabited: and yet it is able to shew the plot of ground where a Castle stood, that was rased in the Barons warre, and which belonged to the Mowbraies, who at that time possessed a great part of the Isle.
In the yeere 1173. as writeth an old Chronographer, Roger de Mowbray forsaking [ D] his Allegeance to the Elder * 1.104 King, repaired the Castle at Kinard Ferry in the Isle of Ax∣holme, which had beene of old time destroyed. Against whom a number of Lincoln-shire men making head, when they had passed over the water in barges, laid siege to the Castle, for∣ced the Constable thereof and all the souldiers to yeeld, and overthrew the said Castle. Some∣what higher is Botterwic, the Lord whereof Sir Edmund Sheffeld, King Edward the Sixth created the first Baron Sheffeld of Botherwic: who for his country spent his life against the Rebels in Norfolke, having begotten of Anne Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter, a sonne named John, the second Baron, and father to Edmund now Lord Sheffeld, a right honourable Knight of the Garter, President of the Councell esta∣blished in the North. But more into the North I saw Burton Stather standing upon [ E] the other side of Trent, whereof I have hetherto read nothing memorable.
* 1.105This Shire glorieth in the Earles which have borne Title thereof. After Egga who flourished in the yeere 710. and Morcar both Saxons, and who were Earles by office, onely, William de Romara a Norman, was the first Earle after the Conquest, in whose roome being dead (for neither his sonne, whereas he died before his father, nor his grand-child enjoied this title) King Stephen placed Gilbert de Gaunt. After whose de∣cease Simon de Saint Lyz,* 1.106 the younger, the sonne of Earle Simon, (you reade the very words of Robert Montensis, who lived about that time) Wanting lands, by the gracious gift of King Henry the Second tooke his onely daughter to wife, with her his honour also. After this Lewis of France, who was by the seditious Barons brought into England [ F] girt a second Gilbert out of the Family de Gaunt, with the sword of the Earldome of Lincolne: but when the said Lewis was soone after expelled the land, no man acknow∣ledged him for Earle, and himselfe of his owne accord relinquished that title. Then Raulph the sixth Earle of Chester obtained this honour of King Henry the Third, who
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[ A] a little before his death gave unto Hawise or Avis his sister (the wife of Robert De Quincy) by Charter, the Earledome of Lincolne, so farre forth as appertained unto him, that shee might bee Countesse thereof: For in this tenour runne the very words of the Charter. She likewise bestowed it upon John de Lacy Constable of Chester, and the heires whom hee should beget of the body of Margaret her daughter. This John had issue Edmund, who dying before his mother left this honour for Henry his sonne to enjoy, who was the last Earle of that line: For when his sonnes were taken away by untimely death, and he had but one little daughter onely remaining alive named Alice, hee affianced her, being but nine yeeres old, to Thomas the sonne of Edmund Earle of Lancaster,* 1.107 with this condition, That if he should fortune to dye without heires of [ B] her body, or if they happened to dye without heires of their bodies, his Castles, Lordships, &c. should in Remainder come to the heires of Edmund Earle of Lancaster for ever. But the said Alice had no childe at all by her husband Thomas: But when Thomas her husband was beheaded, shee that by her light behaviour had not a little steined her good name, tooke Sir Eubul le Strange, with whom she had lived before time too familiar∣ly, for her husband,* 1.108 without the assent and privity of her Soveraigne; who being here∣at highly offended, seised her possessions into his owne hands. Yet both Sir Eubul Strange, and Sir Hugh Frene her third husband, are in some Records named Earles of Lincolne. After Alice, now very aged, was departed this life without issue, Henry Earle of Lancaster Nephew to Edmund aforesaid by his second sonne, entred upon [ C] her large and faire patrimony by vertue of that conveiance (which I spake of be∣fore) and from that time it accrued to the House of Lancaster.* 1.109 Howbeit the Kings of England at their pleasure have bestowed the name and honour of Earles of Lin∣colne, as,* 1.110 King Edward the Fourth gave it to Sir John De la Pole: and King Henry the Eighth, to Henry Brandon, both the Sonnes of the Dukes of Suffolke, who both ended this life without Issue; the first slaine in the battaile at Stoke, and the other taken away by the sweating sicknesse.* 1.111 Afterward Queene Elizabeth promoted Ed∣ward Baron Clinton Lord high Admirall of England, to the said honour, which his sonne Henry enjoyeth at this day.
There are in this Shire Parishes much about 630.
Page [unnumbered]
Page [unnumbered]
Notes
-
* 1.1
Metaris aestu••∣rium. The Washes.
-
* 1.2
Salt-hils.
-
* 1.3
Quicksands.
-
* 1.4
Crowland.
-
* 1.5
The Divels of Crowland.
-
* 1.6
Spalding.
-
* 1.7
Boston.
-
* 1.8
Robbers in Monkes habits.
-
* 1.9
Stilyard.
-
* 1.10
The Register of Freston. Barons of Burton Croeun. De vallibus.
-
* 1.11
Herwardus Anglus.
-
* 1.12
Ingulph of Crowland.
-
* 1.13
Barons de Wake.
-
* 1.14
Kesteven.
-
* 1.15
Stanford.
-
* 1.16
See Burghley in the County of Northamp∣ton.
-
* 1.17
An Academy or University be∣gun at Stan∣ford.
-
* 1.18
Commonly called High-Dike.
-
* 1.19
Gausennae.
-
* 1.20
Bridge-Caster∣ton.
-
* 1.21
Deping.
-
* 1.22
Deping fen.
-
* 1.23
Burne.
-
* 1.24
Lutterell. Sempringham.
-
* 1.25
Gilbertine Freers and Sisters.
-
* 1.26
Lords of Fol∣kingham.
-
* 1.27
Pl. 27. H. 3. Rot. 13. Linc.
-
* 1.28
Inqui. 4.8.2. Screkingham.
-
* 1.29
Bussy. Sleford.
-
* 1.30
Baron Hussy.
-
* 1.31
Kime.
-
* 1.32
Earles of Anguse.
-
* 1.33
Temple Bruer.
-
* 1.34
Barons D'incourt.
-
* 1.35
Inquis. 21. H. 6.
-
* 1.36
Patent. 10▪ Edw. 2.
-
* 1.37
Belvoir or Bever Castle.
-
* 1.38
Tony.
-
* 1.39
Stones Astroites.
-
* 1.40
The vale of Beaver.
-
* 1.41
Margidunum.
-
* 1.42
Marga. i. Marle Dunum.
-
* 1.43
River Wi∣tham.
-
* 1.44
Bitham.
-
* 1.45
Matthew Paris.
-
* 1.46
Colvill.
-
* 1.47
Paunton.
-
* 1.48
Ad Pontes.
-
* 1.49
Crococalana
-
* 1.50
Ancaster.
-
* 1.51
Grantham.
-
* 1.52
A golden ••••••••met.
-
* 1.53
Somerton.
-
* 1.54
Durham booke.
-
* 1.55
Lords of ••••••••••mont.
-
* 1.56
Lindsey▪
-
* 1.57
Fosse dike. Hoveden.
-
* 1.58
Torksey.
-
* 1.59
Domesday booke.
-
* 1.60
Lindum▪ Lincolne-Collis an hill.
-
* 1.61
Sidnacester.
-
* 1.62
R. Hoveden.
-
* 1.63
Grosthead, he died ann. 1233. Matth. Paris. Anonymus Chronographus.
-
* 1.64
The Staple.
-
* 1.65
Highdike.
-
* 1.66
Barons of Trusbut.
-
* 1.67
Bardney. Oswalds ban∣ner.
-
* 1.68
In the Appen¦dix of Ingulp••
-
* 1.69
Hornecastle▪
-
* 1.70
Alice.
-
* 1.71
Dimockes. Inq. 23. E. 3.
-
* 1.72
The Kings Champion.
-
* 1.73
Fines Micha. Anno 1. H. 6.
-
* 1.74
Tatteshall.
-
* 1.75
Cromwell.
-
* 1.76
Eresby. Lords Wil∣loughbey.
-
* 1.77
Lords Wels Lords de Engain.
-
* 1.78
Bollingbroke.
-
* 1.79
Wainfleet.
-
* 1.80
Alford. Baron Welles.
-
* 1.81
-
* 1.82
Grimsby.
-
* 1.83
Castor. Thong-caster.
-
* 1.84
Byrsa.
-
* 1.85
In Virgil, Byrsam.
-
* 1.86
Thorton College.
-
* 1.87
Barton upon Humber.
-
* 1.88
Kettleby. Tirwhitt.
-
* 1.89
Bye what it is.
-
* 1.90
Delicate fowles.
-
* 1.91
Knotts. Dotterell••.
-
* 1.92
Stow.
-
* 1.93
Knath.
-
* 1.94
Darcy de No∣cton and Knath
-
* 1.95
Fines 29. E. 3.
-
* 1.96
Gainesborrow
-
* 1.97
Barons Borrough.
-
* 1.98
Sidnacester.
-
* 1.99
Saint Paul.
-
* 1.100
Axelholme.
-
* 1.101
Gals, a shrub.
-
* 1.102
-
* 1.103
Alabastrites.
-
* 1.104
Henry the Se∣cond, in regard of his sonne whom he had made King with him.
-
* 1.105
Earles of Lin∣colne.
-
* 1.106
2. H. 2.
-
* 1.107
Lib. Monaster. de Stanlow.
-
* 1.108
2. Edw. ••.
-
* 1.109
Escaet. 1. E. 3. N. 134.
-
* 1.110
See Dukes of Suffolke.
-
* 1.111
Anno 14. Elizabethae.