The English gentlevvoman, drawne out to the full body expressing, what habilliments doe best attire her, what ornaments doe best adorne her, what complements doe best accomplish her. By Richard Brathvvait Esq.

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Title
The English gentlevvoman, drawne out to the full body expressing, what habilliments doe best attire her, what ornaments doe best adorne her, what complements doe best accomplish her. By Richard Brathvvait Esq.
Author
Brathwaite, Richard, 1588?-1673.
Publication
London :: Printed by B. Alsop and T. Favvcet, for Michaell Sparke, dwelling in Greene Arbor,
1631.
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Subject terms
Women -- Conduct of life -- Early works to 1800.
Clothing and dress -- Early works to 1800.
Etiquette -- Early works to 1800.
Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A16659.0001.001
Cite this Item
"The English gentlevvoman, drawne out to the full body expressing, what habilliments doe best attire her, what ornaments doe best adorne her, what complements doe best accomplish her. By Richard Brathvvait Esq." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A16659.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 15, 2024.

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THE ENGLISH Gentlevvomn.

Argument.

Complement defined; how it may be corrupted; how refined; wherein it may be admitted as mainely conse∣quent; wherein omitted as meerely imperti••••••; what Complement giues best accomplishment.

COMPLEMENT.* 1.1

COMPLEMENT hath beene anciently defined,* 1.2 and so succes∣siuely retained;* 1.3 a no lesse rea•••• than formall accomplishment. Such as were more noby and freely educated, and had improued their bree∣ding by forraine Obser∣uations (so sweetly tem∣pered was the equall vnion and communion of their

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affections) instructed others in what they had seene and obseru'd either at home or abroad, worthy imi∣tation or approuement. Nothing was admitted in those times publikely, but what was by the grauer Censors first discussed priuately. Iealous were the Pagans of forraine fashions: for, with such constan∣cy they retained their owne; as they seldome or ne∣uer itched after others. The Tyrian and Sidonian were so suspected of pride, through their effeminacy in attire, and other light fashions which they vsed, as they were held dangerous to commerce with. So purely did those poore beamelings of Nature reflect on her people; that formality was held palpable hy∣pocrisie, faire semblances and coole performances meere golden shadowes to delude others, but gull themselues most. Princes Courts were Princely Se∣minaries. Delicacy was there no Tutresse, nor effe∣minacy Gouernesse. If Alcibiades, albeit in Athens the beautifull'st, for natiue endowments the preg∣nant'st, and for dscent one of the noblest, introduce ought irregularly, or expresse any Complement which relisheth not of Ciuility; the author must suffer the censure of the City. It was very vsuall in former times, when any Embassie was addressed from one state vnto another, for the Senate or Councell, from whence any such Legate was sent, to schoole them in sundry particulars before they tooke their iourney or receiued their Commission: but in no caution were they more strict, than in expresse command that they should vse no other garbe, Complement, nor sa∣lute vpon their approach in forraine Courts, than what they had seene vsed and obserued at home. Thus their owne natiue fashion, became a note of distinction to euery Nation.

Neither am I ignorant, how euen in one and the selfe-same Prouine, there may bee generally intro∣duced

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a different or distinct garbe: which procee∣deth either from the Commerce and Confluence of people there resorting, and consequently improuing their Behauiour and Elocution by their mutuall confe∣rence; or from the Princes Court, where all State and Maiesty hath residence; or from the temperature of the Ayre, to which some haue attributed an especiall preeminence. Whereas, in desart and remote places, on which the beames of Ciuill society seldome re∣flect, wee shall finde nothing but barbarisme and vn∣sociable wildnesse. Education is the improuer of the one, and producer of the other. Wee shall euer see Complement shine most in places eminent. There are Obiects fit for such Subiects: Such as expect it, and bestow their whole dayes practice in exercise of it: These aspire to the nature or definition of no art more eagerly, than Complement, which they hold the ab∣solute ornament of Gentility. Howsoeuer, mainely repugnant be their Tenets touching the subsistence of Complement.

Some haue held, it consisted in congies, cringes, and salutes; of which errour, I would this age wherein we liue, did not too much labour: others, meerely in a painted and superficiall discourse; wher∣in they so miserably tyed themselues to words, as they tyred the impatient hearers with foolish repe∣titions, friuolous extrauagancies; being, in a word, so affianced to the shadow, as they forgot the substance. The last, which were onely reall and complete Cour∣tiers, held a seemely gracefull presence, beautifide with a natiue comelinesse, the deseruingst Comple∣ment that could attend vs. Certainely, if we should exactly weigh the deriuation of the word, we could not imagine so meanely of it, as to consist meerely of words, or anticke workes. It was first intended to distinguish betwixt persons of ciuill and sauage

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carriage: yea, to appropriate a title of preeminence to such, who exceeded others in grounds or pecepts of Morality; whose liues appeared as Lampes to enligh∣ten others, and consequently perpetuate the memory of themselues. Many noble and eminent Ladies are recorded both in diuine and humane writ to haue ex∣celled in this Complement of honour. These knew the definition of it, and moulded their conuersation to it: They knew what belonged to a posture of state; they could court it without apish curiosity; embrace loue with a reserued modesty; expresse themselues complete without singularity. Forraigne fashions they distasted; painted Rhetoricke they disrelished; re∣all Complement was all they affected. Loue they could without dissembling; discourse without affecting; shew curt'sie without congying; still retaining what was best beseeming. In the Court they resided to better it; not a straid looke could promise a looe Louer least hope of a purchase; nor Coynesse dishear∣ten a faithfull seruant from his affectionate purpose. They knew not what it was to protest in iest; to walke in the clouds; to domineere ouer their cap∣tiues, or entertaine many Suitors. They freed Com∣plement of dissimulation, made vertue their Load∣stone to affection; their actions were dedicated to good ends: by which meanes they made God and goodmen their friends. Nor doe I feare it, but that our flourishing Albion hath many such noble and complete Ladies; who so highly esteeme the true and natiue definition of Complement, as they preferre the substance before the shadow. Honour is their deerest tender, goodnesse their line, by which they daily draw neerer to perfection, their proper Centre. Thus farre for the Definition, wherein we haue the rather inlarged our discourse, that the Subiect whereof we treat, may be discouered in her owne nature; and

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such as owe attendance to her, become better profi∣cients in their instructions deriued from her. Nei∣ther can we obserue what may really deserue your imitation, but by discerning the excellence of that whereof we treat by a true and proper definition▪

THere is nothing on earth so pure,* 1.4 but abuse may corrupt it; nothing so good, but custome may depraue it. This may appeare in this one Subiect, which wee haue now in discourse. Former times were not so aded to fashions, as to esteeme nothing formall, but what was phantasticall. It was not then held the life of Complement, to haue the art to set a face, court a glasse, make a cringe or a ducke. Legges were held for vsefull supporters, but no Complemen∣tall postures. New-minted words made not their tongues more complete; nor an Outlandish Salute their Persons more admired. Virgin-modesty made resolution her Steletto to guard her honour. Plumes and Feathers were held light dressings for staid minds; suspicious trimmings for stale Maids. Actors might weare them in their presentments vpon the Stage, but modest Matrons were neuer allowed to weare them in the state. Women were admitted to haue Painters, but not to be their owne painters: Campaspe was pictured out in her colours by Apelles: Crotons fiue daughters liuely depictured by Zexes; yet these, without any helpe of art, still retained their owne natiue features. It was the Complement of that age to deliuer their minde freely without mincing, conuerse friendly without glozing; walke the street demurely without gazing. Wherein (with submission euer to graue iudgements) this latter age, in mine opinion, deserues iust reproofe. Edu∣cation is a second Nature, and this hath giuen that

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freedome to women, as they may admit any oportu∣nity to entertaine time with their amorous seruants; redart wanton tales with light blushes; passe a whole afternoone in a Bay-window, in Congies, Courtsies, and other vselesse Complements. Flashes of wit are made beguilers of time; and these mixt now and then with such lasciuious passages, as modesty might iust∣ly hold it selfe abused to be so encountred. Alas! Who knowes not what secret traines are laid for credulous women, vnder these pretenced parlies? Doe you ob∣serue how their tongues are tipt with your prayses; how they honour your shadowes; admire the earth you tread on; adore the Ayre you breath on; and with their ayrie applauses so gild you, as in the end they palpably gull you; leauing you no lesse misera∣bly deluded, than themselues seased of what their sensuall quest pursued? Beware of that Complement which giues way to rob you of your choycest Orna∣ment. Egnatius, in Catulli, is brought out, shewing the whitenesse of his teeth: a poore subiect to raise an Encomiasticke poem. These are Theames for an amorous Muse: White teeth, rolling eyes, a beau∣tifull complexion (all exteriour and inferiour goods) being that which Euryala his Nurse praised, when she washed the feet of Vlysses, namely, gentle speech, and tender flesh. No lesse perswasiue by the elegan∣c of the one, than inuasiue by delicacy of the other. But all these ouward imbellishments giue but small accomplishment to the inward beauty.

Wher good's a better attribute than faire.
No be not these dainty subiects for a Complet youth to dis∣cant on? What Crochets and extemporall Con∣ceits are hatched out of an addle braine? The very shadow of Iulia's haire must not want the complea∣est honour, that either art can deuise, or cest erect. Not a Cooplet but must be poetically Complete; which

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out of an amorous phrensie must with mounting Hy∣perboles be thus contemned.

Skinne more pure than Ida's snow, Whiter farre than Moorish milke, Sweeter than Ambrosia too, Softer than the Paphian silke, Indian plumes or thistle-downe, Or May-blossoms newly blowne, Is my Mistresse Rosie-pale, Adding beauty to her vaile.

An excellent peece of Complementall stuffe to catch a selfe-conceited one. Many you haue of your sexe, who are too attentiue auditors in the report of their owne prayses. Nothing can bee attributed to them, which they hold not properly due vnto them. Which conceit, many times, so transports them, as, Narcissus-like, they are taken with their owne sha∣dowes; doting on nothing more than these Encomi∣asticke bladders of their desertlesse praises. Let mee aduise you, whose discretion should bee farre from giuing light eare to such ayrie Tritons, to dis-rellish the oylie Complement of these amorous Sycophants. Much more vsefull and beneficiall it will be for you to retaine that modesty which appeared in Alphon∣sus Prince of Aragon's answer to a plausiue Orator; who hauing repeated a long Panegyricall Oration in his prayse, replyed; If that thou hast said, consent with truth, I thanke God for it; if not, I pray God grant mee grace that I may doe it. You shall encounter with some of these Complete Amorists, who will make a set speech to your loue, and sweeten euery period with the perfume of it. Others will hold it an ex∣traordinary grace to become Porters of your Misset, or holders of your Fanne, while you pinne on your Maske. Seruice, Obseruance, Deuotion be the Generall heads of their Complement. Other Doctrine they

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haue none, either to instruct morally, or informe politically. Beleeue it, Gentlewomen, they are ill-spent houres, that are bestowed in conference with these Braine-wormes. Their friuolous discourse will exact from you some answer: which if you shape iustly to their dialect, there will be more vaine wind spent, than you can redeeme with many teares. Let no con∣ceit transport you aboue your selues; hold it for no Complement worthy your breeding, to trifle time in loue-toyes. They detract both from discretion and modesty, and oft-times endanger the ruine of the lat∣ter fearefully. This kinde of Complement with great ones, were but meere Canting among Beggars. Hee or shee are the Completest, who in arguments of dis∣course and action are discreetest. Full vessells giue the least sound. Such as hold Complement the sole sub∣iect of a glib tongue, actiue cringe, or artfull smile; are those onely Mimicks, or Buffouns of our age, whose Behauiours deserue farre more derision than applause. Thus you haue heard how Complement may be corrupted; wee now purpose, with as much pro∣priety and breuity as wee may, to shew you how it may be refined. To the end, that what is in its owne nature so commendable, may bee entertained with freedome of choyce, and retained without purpose to change.

THe Vnicornes horne being dipt in water,* 1.5 cleares and purifies it. It is the honour of the Physician to restore nature, after it bee decayed. It is the sole worke of that supreme Archytect to bring light out of darkenesse, that what was darke might bee enlighened; life out of death, that what was dead might bee enliuened; way out of error, that the er∣ring might bee directed; knowledge out of igno∣rance,

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that the ignorant might be instructed; a salue out of sinne, that sinnes sore might bee cured; com∣fort out of affliction, that the afflicted might be com∣forted; hope out of despaire, that the desperate might bee succoured; a raising from falling, that their fall might be recouered; strength out of weak∣nesse, that his great worke might be glorified. Gold thrice tryed, becomes the purer and more refined: And Complement the most, when it is best accommo∣dated. True it is, that Society is either a Plague or a Perfume. It infects, where Consorts are ill-affected; but workes excellent effects, wher vertuous Con∣sorts are assembled.

It is the sweetest note that one can sing, When Grace in Vertues key, turnes Natures string.

Where two meeke men meet together, their con∣ference (saith mellifluous Bernard) is sweet and dele∣ctable: where one man is meeke, it is profitable: where neither, it proues pernicious and vncomfor∣table. It is Society that giues vs, or takes from vs our Security. Let me apply this vnto you, Gentlewomen, whose vertuous dispositions, (so sweetly hath na∣ture grac'd you) promise nothing lesse than feruo∣rous desires of being good. Would you haue that refined in you, which others corrupt, by inuerting the meanes? Or expresse that in her natiue Colours, which will beautifie you more than any artificiall or adulterate colours, whose painted Varnish is no soo∣ner made than melted? Make choyce of such for your Consorts, whose choyce may admit no change. Let no Company be affected by you, which may ha∣zard infecting of you. The World is growne a very Pest-house: timely preuention must be vsed, before the infection haue entred. You haue no such soue∣raigne receits to repell, as you haue to preuent. The infection of vice leaues a deeper spot or speckle on

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the mind, than any disease doth on the body. The Blackmoore may sooner change his skin, the Leopard his spots, than a soule deepe dyed in the graine of in∣fection, can put off her habituate corruption. Be it then your principall care to make choyce of such bashfull Maids, modest Matrons, or reuerend Wid∣dowes, as hold it their best Complement to retaine the opinion of being Continent. Infamy hath wings as swift as fame. Shunne the occasion, lest you vnder∣goe the brand. Posthuma, because giuen to laughter, and something forward to talke with men, was su∣spected of her honesty; where being openly accu∣sed, she was acquitted by Spurius Minutius, with this caueat, to vse words sutable to her life. Ciuility, trust me, is the best and most refined Complement that may be. Courting in publike places, and vpon first sight, it affects not; for it partakes more of impudent than Complete. Be it of the City that argument of discourse be ministred, it can talke freely of it without min∣cing; or of the Court, it can addresse it selfe to that garbe in apt words without minting; or of the Countrey, in an home-spun phrase it can expresse whatsoeuer in the Countrey deserues most prayse. And all this in such a proper and familiar manner, as such who are tied to Complement, may aspire to it, but neuer attaine it. Hee that hath once tasted of the fountaine Clitorius, will neuer afterward drinke any wine. Surely, howsoeuer this ciuil and familiar forme of dialect may seeme but as pure running water in comparison of Complement, which, like Nectar, streames out in Conduits of delight to the humorous hearer: yet our discreet Complementer preferres the pure fountaine before the troubled riuer. It is true, that many fashions, which euen these later times haue introduc'd, deserue free admittance; yea, there is something yet in our Oae, that may be refined.

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Yet in the acceptance of these, you are not to enter∣taine whatsoeuer these finer times haue brought forth. Where variety is affected, and the age to in∣constancy subiected, so as nothing but what is rare and new becomes esteemed: Either must our inuen∣tions be present and pregnant, our surueyes of for∣raine places serious and sollicitant, or we shall fall in∣to decay of fashion, or make old ones new, and so by antiquity gull our Nation. Truth is, though our tongues, hands, bodies, and legges be the same, our Elocution, action, gesture, and posture are not the same. Should the soule of Troilus, according to that erroneous transmgration of Pythagoras, passe into the body of one of or English Courtiers; or Hor∣tensius, (who was an Orator actie enough) into one of our English Lawyers; or Antigone (who was Complementall enough) into one of our English Cur∣tezans; they would finde strange Cottages to dwell in. What is now held Complete; a few yeares will bury in disgrace. Nothing then so refined, if on earth seated, which time will not raze, or more curious conceits disesteeme, or that vniuersall reduction to nothing dissolue. That Complement may seeme plea∣sing; such a fashion generally affecting; such a dres∣sing most Complete: yet are all these within short space couered with contempt. What you obserue then to be most ciuill in others, affect it; such an ha∣bit needs not to be refined, which cannot be bettered. Fashion is a kinde of frenzy; it admires that now, which it will laugh at hereafter, when brought to better temper. Ciuility is neuer out of fashion; it euer retaines such a seemely garbe, as it conferres a grace on the wearer, and enforceth admiration in the beholder. Age cannot deface it; Contempt disgrace it; nor grauity of iudgement (which is euer held a se∣rious Censor) disapproue it.

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Be thus minded, and this Complement in you will be purely refined. You haue singular patternes to imitate, represent them in your liues, imitate them in your loues. The Corruption of the age, let it seize on ignoble spirits; whose education, as it neuer e∣quall'd yours, so let them strike short of those nobler indowments of yours: labour daily to become im∣proued, honour her that will make you honoured: let vertue be your crowne, who holds vanity a crime: So may you shew holinesse in your life, enioy happi∣nesse at your death, and leaue examples of goodnesse vnto others both in life and death.

COurts & eminent places are held fittest Schooles for Complement.* 1.6 There the Cinnamon tree comes to best grouth; there her barke giues sweetest scent. Choice and select fashions are there in onely re∣quest; which oft-times like those Ephemerae, expire, after one dayes continuance: whatsoeuer is vulgar, is thence exploded; whatsoeuer nouell, generally applauded. Here be weekely Lectures of new Com∣plements; which receiue such acceptation, and leaue behinde them that impression, as what garbe soe∣uer they see vsed in Court publikely, is put in pre∣sent practise priuately; lest discontinuance should blemish so deseruing a quality. The Courts glosse may be compared to glasse, bright, but brittle; where Courtiers (saith one) are like Counters,* 1.7 which some∣time in account goe for a thousand pound, and pre∣sently before the Count be cast, but for a single pen∣ny. This too eager affection after Complement, be∣comes the consumption of many large hereditaments. Whereto it may be probably obiected, that euen dis∣••••••tion inioynes euery one to accommodate himselfe to the fashion or condition of that place wherein he

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liues. To which Obiection I easily condescend; for should a rusticke or boorish Behauiour accompany one who betakes himsefe to the Court, he might be sure to finde a Controuler in euery corner to reproue him; or some complete gallant or other, pittifully to geere and deride him. But to dote so on fashion, as to admire nothing more then a phantasticke dres∣sing, or some anticke Complement, which the cor∣ruption of an effeminate State hath brought in, de∣rogates more from discretion, then the strict obser∣uance of any fashion addes to her repute. This place should be the Beacon of the State; whose mounting Prospect surueyes these inferiour coasts which pay homage and fealty vnto her. The least obliquity there, is exemplary elsewhere. Piercingst iudge∣ments, as well as pregnantst wits should be there re∣sident. Not a wandring or indisposed haire, but giues occasion of obseruance to such as are neere. How requisite then is it for you, whose Nobler descents promise, yea, exact more of you, then inferiours, to expresse your selues best in these best discerning and deseruing places? You are women; modesty makes you completest: you are Noble women, desert accom∣panying your descent will make you noblest. You may, and conueniency requires it, retaine a Court∣ly garbe, reserue a well seeming State, and shew your selues liuely Emblemes of that place, wherein you liue: You may entertaine discourse, to allay the irkesomenesse of a tedious houre; bestow your selues in other pleasing recreations, which may no lesse re∣fresh the minde, than they conferre vigour and vi∣uacity to the body. You may be eminent starres, and expresse your glory in the resplendent beames of your vertues; so you suffer no blacke cloud of infa∣my to darken your precious names. She was a Princely Christian Courtier, who neuer approached

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the Court, but shee meditated of the Court of heauen; neuer consorted with her Courtiers, but she contem∣plated those Citizens of heauen; nor euer entred the Presence-Chamber, but shee thought of the presence of her Maker, the King of heauen. Such Meditations are receits to cure all inordinate motions. Your Liues should be the lines to measure others actions. Vertue is gracious in euery subiect, but most in that, which the Prince or Princesse hath made gracious. Anci∣ently, the World was diuided into three parts, where∣of Europa was held the soule; properly, euery Poli∣tike State may be diuided into three Cantons, where∣of the Court is the Suune. You are Obiects to many Eyes; be your actions platformes to many liues. I can by no meanes approue that wooing and winning Complement (though most Courts too generally af∣fect it) which makes her sole Obiect, purchase of Seruants or Suitors. This garbe tastes more of Cur∣tezan than Courtier: it begets Corriuals, whose fatall Duello's end vsually in blood. Our owne State hath sometimes felt the misery of these tragicke euents; by suffering the losse of many generous and free-bred Sparkes; who, had not their Torches beene extin∣guished in their blood, might to this day haue sur∣uiued, to their Countries ioy and their owne fame. So great is the danger that lyes hid in affable Com∣plements, promising aspects, affectionate glances, as they leaue those who presumed of thir owne strength, holding themselues invulnerable, many times labouring of wounds incurable. Be you no such Basilisk; neuer promise a calme in your face, where you threaten a storme in your heart. Appeare what you are, lest Censure taxe you of inconstancy, by saying, you are not what you were. An open countenance and restrained bosome sort not-well to∣gether. Sute your discourse to your action; both to

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a modest dispose of your affection. Throw abroad no loose Lures, wandring eyes, strayed lookes; these delude the Spectators much, but the Actors most. A iust reuenge! by striuing to take in others, they are taken by others. How dangerous doe wee hold it to be, in a time of infection, to take vp any thing, be it neuer so precious, which wee finde lost in the street? One of your loose lookes, be it darted with neuer so Complementall a state, is farre more infecti∣ous, and mortally dangerous. There is nothing that sounds more cheerefully to the eare, or leaues a swee∣ter accent; nothing that conueyes it selfe more spee∣dily to the heart, or affords fuller content for the time, than conceit of loue. It will immaze a per∣plexed wretch in a thousand extremes; whose ama∣zed thoughts stand so deepely ingaged to the Obiect of his affection; as hee will sustaine any labour, in hope of a trifling fauour. Such soueraignty beauty retaines, which, if discretion temper not, begets such an height of conceit in the party beloued; as it were hard to say, whether the Agent or Patient suf∣fer more. To you let mee returne, who stand fixed in so high an Orbe; as a gracefull Maiesty well be∣comes you, so let modesty grace that Maiesty; that demeaning your selues like Complete and gracious Courtiers on earth, you may become triumphant and glorious Courtiers in heauen.

THis garbe,* 1.8 as it suites not with all Persons, so sorts it not to all Places. For a Mechanicke to affect Complement, would as ill seeme him, as for a rough-hewen Satyre to play the Orator. It is an excel∣lent point of discretion, to fit ones selfe to the quali∣ty or condition of that place where he resides. That Vrbanity which becomes a Citizen, would rellish

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of too much curiosity in a Country man. That Com∣plement which giues proper grace to a Courtier, would be get derision or contempt, being personated by a Merchant or his Factor. In affaires of State, is re∣quired a gracefull or Complete posture; which many times procures more reuerence in the person inter∣essed, than if that state were omitted. Whereas, in ordinary affaires of trafficke, it were indiscretion to represent any such state, or to vse any expression, ei∣ther by way of discourse or action, that were not fami∣liar. That person, who preferres Complement before profit; and will rather speake not to be vnderstood, than lose one polite-stollen phrase, which hee hath purchased by care onely, and vnderstands not, may account himselfe one among his bank-rupt brethren, before he breake. It is pittifull to heare what a rem∣nant of sustian, for want of better Complement, a Complete-Country-Gossip (for so shee holds her selfe) will vtter in one houre amongst her Pew-fel∣lowes. How shee will play the Schoole-Mistresse in precepts of Discipline and morall Behauiour! No∣thing so gracefull in another, which shee will not freely reproue; nothing so hatefull in her selfe, which shee will not confidently approue. Teach shee will, before shee be taught; and correct Forme it selfe, to bring Forme out of loue with it selfe. To which ma∣lady, none is more naturally subiect, than some La∣dies cashiered Gentlewoman, or one who hath plaid Schoole-Mistresse in the City, and for want of com∣petent pay, remoues her Campe into the Countrey; where shee brings enough of vanity into euery fa∣mily throughout the Parish. Shee will not sticke to instruct her young Pupils in strange points of forma∣lity, enioyning them not to aske their Parents bles∣sing without a Complement. These, as they were ne∣uer Mistresses of families, so they are generally igno∣rant

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in employments of that kinde. Those three principall workes or faculties of the Vnderstanding, which might enable them to Discourse, Distinguish, and to Chuse, are so estranged from them, as their Discourse consists solely in arguments of vanity, their Distinction in meere shadowes of formality, their Choyce in subiects and Consorts of effeminacy. Eight things, saith Hippocrates, make ones flesh moyst and fat; the first, to be merry and liue at hearts ease; the second, to sleep much; the third, to lie in a soft bed; the fourth, to fare well; the fifth, to be wel apparelled and appointed; the sixth, to ride alwayes on horse-backe; the seuenth, to haue our wil; and the eighth, to be em∣ployed in Plaies & pastimes, & in such time-beguiling recreations, as yeeld contentment and pleasure. These are the onely receits in request with those Shee-Cen∣sors we now discourse of; and of whom it may bee said, as was sometimes spoken of one Margites, that he neuer plowed, nor digged, nor did any thing all his life long that might tend vnto goodnesse; and by necessary consequence wholly vnprofitable to the world. Who, howsoeuer they are lesse than Wo∣men at their worke, yet at their meat (so vnconfined is their appetite) they are more than men, and in their habit (so phantasticke is their conceit) neither wo∣men nor men. So as, were Diogenes to encounter one of these, hee might well expostulate the cause with her, as he did vpon like occasion with a youth too curiously and ffeminately drest: If thou goest to men, all this is but in vaine, if vnto women, it is wikd. But these wee hold altogether vnworthy of your more generous society; whose excellent breeding hath sufficienly accommodated you for City, Court, and Countrey; and so fully inform'd you how to d∣meane your selues in all affaires; as I make little doubt, but you know, wherein it may bee admitted,

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as manely consequent; and wherein omitted as meere∣ly impertinent. I meane therefore to descend briefly to the last branch of this Obseruation; declaring, what Ornament giues Complement best beauty or accom∣plishment.

IT is true, what the sonne of Sirach sometimes said; When a man hath dne his best,* 1.9 he must beginne againe, and when he thinketh to come to an end, he must goe againe to his labour. There is nothing so exact, which may not admit of something to make it more perfect. We are to goe by stayres and steps to the height of any story. Vertues are the Staires, Perfection the Spire. But I must tell you,* 1.10 Gentlewomen, the way for you to ascend, is first to descend: Complete you cannot bee, vnlesse you know how replte you are of misery. Humility is the staire that conducts you to this spire of glory. Your beauty may proclaime you faire; your discourse expresse a pregnancy of conceit; your behauiour con∣firme you outwardly complete. Yet there is some∣thing more than all this required, to make you abso¦lutely accomplished. All these outward becommings, bee they neuer so gracefull, are but reflections in a 〈◊〉〈◊〉: quite vanished, so soone as the glasse is re∣m••••ed. Critol•••••• ballance was of precious temper, and well-deseruing estimation with Heires of Ho∣nour; who posed the goods of body and fortune in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ••••ale, and goods of the mind in the other: where he goods of the minde so farre weighed downe the other, as the heauen doth the earth and Seas. To ••••ad a dance graefully; to marry your voyce to your instrument musically; to expresse your selues in proe and verse morally; are commendable qualities, and en••••rcing motiues of affection. Yet I must tell you, for the first, though it appeare by your feet to be

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but a meere dimension, in the opinion of the Learned it is the Diuels procession: Where the Dance is the Circle, whose centre is the Deuil. Which may be re∣strained by a more easie or moderate glasse to such wanton and immodest Reuels, as haue ancienly been vsed in the Celebration of their prophane feasts by Pagans, and are to this day by Pagan-christians; who, to gaine applause from the Spectator, care not what shamelesse parts they play in the presence of their Maker. But what are these worth, being com∣pared with these inward Ornaments or beauties of your mind; which onely distinguish you from other creatures, and make you soueraignesses ouer the rest of Gods creatures? You haue that within you, which will best accomplish you. Let not that be cor∣rupted, by which your crooked wayes may be best corrected. Hold it no such necessary poynt of Com∣plement, to shew a kinde of maiesty in a Dance; and to preferre it before the Complement of a Religious taske. Those sensuall Curtezans, who are so deligh∣ted in songs, pipes, and earthly melody, shall in hell rore terribly and howle miserably: crying, as it is in the Apocalips; Woe, Woe, Woe. Woe shall euery one cry seuerally,* 1.11 for the reward they haue receiued in hell eternally, saying and sighing, Woe is mee that uer I was borne: for farre better had it beene for her, that shee had neuer beene borne. And againe; Cur∣sed be the wombe that bare me a sinner. After this, shall she cry out in her second Woe against her selfe and all the members of her owne body. Woe be vnto you my accursed feet, what euill haue you brought vpon me miserable wretch, who by your peruerse paths and wicked waies haue shut heauens gate of me? o vnto you my hands, why haue you depriued me by your sinfull touch, and sensual embrace of the Crown of glory; by your meanes am I brought to hell fire,

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where I shall be tormented eternally? Woe vnto thee, thou cursed tongue, what mischiefe hast thou brought vpon me, by vttering words so scurrilous and filthy, and singing vnciuill songs so frequently? O ye cursed Eyes, who by your vnlawfull obiects of concupiscence, haue depriued me of Gods presence, and neuer shed one teare for your sinnes in token of repentance! Now begins your intollerable wee∣ping (ye teare-swolne eyes neuer dryed) before all the diuels and the damned. Woe vnto thee my heart, what hast thou put vpon me, who by thy lustfull thoughts and vnlawfull ioyes, hast depriued me of eternall ioyes? The third Woe, that she shall cry out, is this, saying: Woe vnto the bitternesse of my torments, for they are comfortlesse: woe vnto the multitude of them, for they are numberlesse: woe vn∣to the eternity of them, for they are endlesse. Would our wanton Curtezans, who sport it in their beds of luory, surfeit it in their delicacy, wanton it in the boome of security, and dedicate their whole time to sensuality, reflect vpon such a soueraigne salue or spirituall balme as this; they would draw backe their feet from the wayes of wantonnesse, and ex∣ercise them wholly in the pathes of righteousnesse. They would remoue their hands from vnchaste em∣braces, and inure them to the search of Scriptures. They would stop their mouthes from vttring ought 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and teach their tongues to be Orators of modsty. They would turne their eyes from vani∣ty, and sixe them on the purest obiects of eternity. That so, instead of bitternesse of torments, they might taste the sw••••••nesse, of diuine comforts: instead of mul∣titu•••• of torments, they might partake the number∣lesse number of Gods mercies: and instead of the eter∣nity of those torments, immortality with Gods Saints and Seruants.

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Preuention is the life of policy; the way to auoid those, and enioy these, is to liue in your Court here on earth, where you are spheered, as in the presence of God and his heauenly Angels, where your hope is seated. Though your feet be here, your faith should be there: here your Campe, there your Court. Meane time, while you soiourne here, you are to hold a good Christian the completest Courtier: and that vertue is the ornament, which giues Complement the best ac∣complishment. Silken honour is like painted meate; it may feede the eye, but affords no nourishment. That Courtiers Coate giues a vading glosse, whose heart is not inwardly liu'd with grace. Let good∣nesse guide you in the way, and happinesse will crowne you in the end. Let your Complete armour be righteousnesse, your Complement lowlinesse; complete in nothing so much as holinesse; that in your con∣uoy from Earth, you may be endenized in heauen, naturall Citizens, angelicall Courtiers.

Notes

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