Part of this summers travels, or News from hell, Hull, and Hallifax, from York, Linne, Leicester, Chester, Coventry, Lichfield, Nottingham, and the Divells Ars a peake With many pleasant passages, worthy your observation and reading. By Iohn Taylor.

Certain other observations.

There is a faire Library, and a well founded

Almes-house within the Town, also two Gaoles, two houses of Correction, and for mad and fran∣tick people. Also it is reported, that when King Richard the Third went from Leicester, to fight the battaile neer Bosworth, that then there was a man of mean calling (some say he was a Weaver, and some say a Plough-wright by his Trade) hee had a spirit of divination or Prophecie, of whom the Tyrant King Richard demanded some que∣stions, what the event of that dayes fight might be to him, to whom the other (most bluntly an∣swered, Marke my words King Richard, that as thou dost ride out of this Towne of Leicester, this morning thou shalt hit thy right foot against a stone, and as thou returnest thou shalt knocke thy head against the same: which proved true, for as he road, he did strike against the corner of a wall his foot, and after hee was slain in the field, hee was stript, and his body layd crosse behind a man on Hors-back, (like a Calfe) and in that vile and ignominious manner, as they brought his corps back to Leicester, his head did knocke a∣gainst the aforesaid wall or stone, which place I saw there; also I went eight miles to see Red∣••••re field, where the King fell, which is a moo∣rish kinde of ground, altogether unfruitfull, and the water doth seem red, which some foolish people do suppose to be the staine of K. Richards

bloud; but it is onely the colour of the red earth that makes the water seeme so, and the ground close adjoyning is very fertile for Corne and Pasturage, but in the lower parts it is boggy and moory: by nature, and not either barren or blou∣dy by any reason of the Kings death.

Another observation is concerning the altera∣tion of the measures of Miles, and good sufficient Pots or Jugs of drink, but the further I travelled Northward, the more the miles were lengthe∣ned, and the Pots shrunke and curtald; but in∣deed, what the liquor wanted in measure it had in strength: the power of it being of such po∣tencie, that it would fox a dry Traveller, before he had half quencht his thirst.

In this County of Leicester, I observed a piece of extream justice, executed upon three Geese, which was thus.

At a Village called Dadlington, eight miles from Leicester, there dwelsa Gentlewoman a Kinswoman of mine, who the last Trinity Tearm 1639 was at London, about some businesse in Law, which much concern'd her: and in her ab∣sence, the Pinder of Dadlington, finding three of her Geese innocently grazing upon the Com∣mon, for to shew the full power, force, vertue, and marrow of his office and authority, drave the Geese into the Pound or Pindfold, and be∣cause

they could procure no Bayle for their Re∣lease, nor sureties for their true imprisonment, hee put all their three necks into a Horslock, which Engine or Neck-fetter was so strait, close, and pinching, that the Geese were all strangled: Now the question is whether Willy, Tilly, (the Pinder so silly) were the cause of their deaths, or whether the Geese did desperately cast away themselves: all which I humbly refer to the dis∣cretion of the Jury.

But some Readers may muse why I do write so much of Leicester, in this little Book; the reason is that I lay there from the 17 of July, to the 20 of August, which was five weekes, but in the mean space, I road to Coventry, and return'd in a day to Leicester again, of Coventry I have little to say, but that it is a faire, famous, sweet, and an∣cient City, so walled about with such strength and neatnesse, as no City in England may com∣pare with it; in the wals (at severall places) are 13 Gates and Posterns whereby to enter, and is∣sue too and from the City: and on the wals are 18 strong defensible Towers, which do also beauti∣fie it: in the City is a faire and delicate Crosse, which is for structure, beauty, and workmanship, by many men accounted unmatchable in this Kingdome: although my selfe with some others, do suppose, that of Abington in Berkeshire will

match it, and I am sure the Crosse in Cheapside at London doth farre out-passe it. I have bin at this City foure times, and have written of it before, and therefore at this time (my stay being so short there) I have but little to say, onely this that some are of opinion, that at the first itwas called Coventry, from the French word Trey Covent, be∣cause there were founded three Covents, for three severall Orders of Friers, namely, the Franciscan Friers, the Augustine Friers, and the Dominicans: It matters not much who erected the said foundations and Covents, but it is cer∣tain, that the renowned King Henry the Eighth did suppresse and demolish them, whose memo∣ries now is almost quite buried in their owne ruines. Coventry is a County of it selfe, it hath been grac'd and dignified much by the Grant and Priviledges given to it by former Kings, a•• King Edward the Third, and King Henry the Sixt; The Majors name (at my being there, wa•• Master Thomas Forrest a Vintener) and Maste Thomas Phineas Sword-bearer there dyed at th•• beginning of the Sessions (much about the tim•• of my being there) he was a man of that comel•• bulke and corpulency, that his Coffin was a ful•• yard wide at the shoulders, and it is said, that i•• his life time hee could have been (at one meale the consumption of a large shoulder of Mutton,

but he and his good stomack being both deceast, I left Coventry, because it was Sessions time, and returned to my Randevouze at Leister.

The eleventh day of August I road from Lei∣ster to Nottingham, where I lodged at the signe of the Princes Armes; but I was wel entertained at the house of the Right Worshipfull Sir Tho∣mas Hutchinson Knight, himselfe and his good Lady made mee welcome, and did ex∣presse their bounty to mee in good Cheere and Money: for the which I am heartily thank∣full.

The Towne of Nottingham is seated on a Hill, which Hill is almost of one stony Rocke, or a soft kinde of penetrable sandy stone; it hath ve∣ry faire buildings, many large streetes, and a spa∣cious Market place: a great number of the inha∣bitants (especially the poorer sort) doe dwell in vaults, holes, or caves, which are cut and digged out of, (or within) the Rocke: so that if a man be destitute of a house, it is but to goe to Not∣tingham, and with a Mattock, a Shovell, a Crow of Iron, a Chizell, and Mallet, and such instru∣ments, he may play the Mole, the Cunny, or the Pioner, and worke himselfe a Hole, or a Burrow, for him and his family: Where, over their heads the grasse and pasture growes, and beasts do feed; faire Orchards and gardens are their coverings, and Cowes are milkt upon the tops of their hou∣ses.

I was much befriended by Master Palmer the Iaylor there; for he went with me, and shew∣ed me the (sometimes) strong and defencible Castle, but now much ruined: yet still there are many faire and sumptuous roomes in reasonable reparation and estate. On the lofty Battlements of the said Castle, there is a most spacious pro∣spect round about: for from thence I could see the most stately Castle of Belvoyre or Bever Castle, which doth (as it selfe) belong to the Right Honourable the Earle of Rutland: and nearer hand, within three miles, I saw the an∣cient Towne of Gotham, famous for the seven Sages (or Wise men) who are fabulously re∣ported to live there in former ages.

In the aforesaid Castle of Nottingham, I was shewed divers strange wonderfull Vaults, cut or hewen out of the Rocke, whereof one is said to be the place where David King of Scots was detained many years in captivity: where the said King, with his owne hands (without any other instrument than the nayles of his fingers) did with the said tooles engrave and claw out the forme of our Saviours Life, death, and passion; which Worke is there to bee seene upon the Walls.

Also there is another Vault or passage through the Rocke, whereby men may descend or ascend out, or into the Castle; which vault is called

Mortimers Hole, through which hole (as report goes) the great Roger Mortimer, Earle of Wig∣mor, and Lord of Wallingford had egresse and re∣gresse to the Queene, wife to King Edward the second, or the infortunate Edward of Carnarvan.

Thus having seene as much of Nottingham Towne and Castle as is related; on the twelfth of August, I road to the ancient towne of Dar∣by: On the thirteenth of August I left Darby, with an intent to retire to Leister; but after I had road halfe a Mile, I met with an acquain∣tance of mine, who was travailing towards the Peake in Darby shire, to a Towne called Wirks∣worth, and from thence to Chiesterfield, I retur∣ned with him. The Country is very Mountai∣nous, and many Lead Mines are found there∣abouts: the best and most richest is called Dove Gany, within a mile or little more of Wirks∣worth (corruptly called Wortsworth:) and two Miles from thence are most dangerous wayes, stony, craggy, with inaccessible Hils and Moun∣taines: the grounds there are lawfull (as they told me) for any man to dig or mine in for Lead, be they of what condition soever: for the Laws of mining is, that those that will adventure their Labours shall have all the profits, paying the tenth part to the Lord or Landlord, of all the Lead which they get. If it happen that they take

pains, a yeare or two in sundry places to finde a Myne if their fortune be so hard to finde none (as it often falls out so) they do work all that while for nothing, and finde themselves as they are a∣ble, and in the end their toyle and labour is all lost: but if they doe hit upon a good Myne that doth hold out, and yield plentifully, then they may quickly enrich themselves (if they be good husbands.) I was told of a poore Thatcher that left his Trade, and venturing his time and pains, he found so rich a Lead Myne, that he would turn Gentleman, and he kept men in Liveries, living at the rate of the expence of 100 pound a week; so that he supposing that Leaden, Golden World would never be ended, took no care to save any thing, but after a while, the Myne failed, and hee spent that little which hee had left in digging for more, could finde none, so that for a conclu∣sion, he forsook the Peake, and turnd Thatcher a∣gain.

That part of the Peak, which is called the De∣vils Ars, is at or neere a Towne named Castle∣ton, or Castle Towne, so stiled from an ancient ruined Castle on a Hill, at the end of the Town, it is 30 miles from Darby, the Castle stands on the top of a Hill, and under it is a Cliff or Riffe in the said Hill, which is as wide at the entrance as three Barn doores, but being entred in it is

enclosed again so narrow, that a man must stoop to passe further, but after that straight passage is past, there is rooms of incredible and wonder∣full greatnesse, with strange and intricate tur∣nings and windings, which no man can see with∣out great store of lights, and by reason that those things are naturall, and formed without any att¦or labour of man, and with all so dismall hot∣rid, darke, and hideous, that place is called the Devils Ars a Peak, at or upon which I have (ac∣cording to my promise) given three jerks with my pen, at the latter end of this Book.

From thence I returned towards Leicester 30 miles, on the 15 of August, and lodged at a Market Towne called Narbury, and the next day I came all tyred and weary (both man and beast to Leicester) and on the 20 day, I took my jour∣ney 64 miles into Norfolke, to the famous Town of Linne, and three miles from thence, at a Vil∣lage called Wooton, I was there well welcomed by Master Richard Miles (to whom I am and must be a thankfull Brother in Law) whose lo∣ving kindnesse to me was shewed in such extra∣ordinary manner, which because I cannot ex∣presse, I will remayn gratefull with silence.

Concerning Linne, it is an excellent Sea-town and strong Port, it is gravely and peaceably go∣verned by a Major, 12 Aldermen, and a Recor∣der.

It hath bin honored by divers, but chiefly by King John 440 yeares since, and by King Henry the Third, the first gave them a faire gilt Cup, which is there to be seene, as a witnesse of his Royall liberality: and who so will know more of Linne, let them goe thither and look the Re∣cords of the Town, or else let them read Master Camdens Britania, or the painfull labours of Master Iohn Speed. The troth is, mine Hoast No∣ble, was a noble Hoast to me, at whose house, my brothers kindred and friends, gave me a friend∣ly farewell. On Tuesday the 27 of August, from Linne to Boston in Lincolnshire 24 miles, where I dined with the right Worshipfull Sir Anthony Thomas Knight, from Boston I road 14 miles to Horn Castle, where I lodg'd the 28 of August. But I crave pardon of the Reader, for I had al∣most forgotten a merry passage or two which hapned in Norfolke, not farre from Linne: and thus it was.

At a place called Priors Thorns, neere to two Towns, namely, Northbery and Sapham, there dwelt a man named Frier, who was rich in sub∣stance, but very poore and miserable in his con∣ditions: belike hee had read or heard of a Play that was written 40 years since by Master Ben∣jamin Iohnson, the Play is extant, and is called Every Man out of his Humour, in which Play

was acted and personated a mizerly Farmer, that had much corne in his Barnes, and did expect a scant or barren Harvest, that through want and scarcity hee might sell his corne at what deare rates hee pleased, but (contrary to his wicked hopes) the Harvest proved abundantly plentifull, wherefore hee being in an extraordinary merry or mad veine, put himselfe to the charge of the buying of a two penny halter, and went into his Barn as secretly as he could, and putting the hal∣ter about his neck with a riding knot, he fastned the other end to a beam, and most neatly hang'd himself: But (as ill luck would have it) his man presently came into the Barne, and espyde his Master so bravely mounted, the unlucky Knave drew his Knife and cut the halter, crying out for help as lowde as he could, rubbing and chafing his Master with all care and diligence to recover him to life again; at the last he awak'd out of his traunce, and fetch'd a deep groan, began to stare and look about him; and taking the end of the cut halter in his hand, his first words to his man was, Sirrah, who did cut this, O Master (said the fellow) it was I that did it, and I thank God that I came in good time to doe it, and I pray you to take God in your minde, and never more to ha∣zard your soule and body in such a wicked man∣ner: to which good counsell of the poor fellow,

the Caitiffe replyde, Sirrah, If you would be medling (like a sawey busie Rogue) you might have untyde it, that it might have serv'd another time, such an unthristy Rascall as thou will never be worth such a halter, it cost me two pence, and I will abate the price of it in thy quarters wa∣ges. And when the quarter day came, hee did a∣bate the said two pence, for the which the fellow would dwell no longer with him, but went and got him another service: This was acted really and lately at the place aforesaid, in imitation of that part in the Play, of Every Man out of his Humour.

After the said Frier had some Hogs which were like to die with the Murrain, which Hogs he killed and powdred, and his wife, children, and Family, as many as did eat of the Porke, fell sick and dyed all: for the which the slave deserv'd a hanging, and a Hangman, but hee yet lives for some worse purpose.

Concerning a paire of Brewers, and a piece of justice. Another short Norfolk Tale is not imper∣tinent. There was one Master Fen a Brewer at Fensham, and one Master Francis Dix a Brewer at Sapkam, this Dix was riding in the Countrey amongst his Customers (the Inkeepers and Vi∣ctuallers) and he call'd for a pot of Ale or Beere as heroad by; (now that Ale-house was a Custo∣mer

to Fen, as soon as Dix had drank, hee asked who brewed that drink, to whom the Hoastesse sayd, that Master Fen of Fensham brewed it; well said Dix, I dare lay a wager, that I will give my Marc but a peck of Mault, and she shall pisse bet∣ter drink than this: at the last these words came to Fens hearing, for the which disparagement, he sued Dix, and recovered from him twenty pound damage besides costs, at the Assizes last at Norwich 1639. And now to returne to the nar∣ration of my Travels, from whence I have di∣grest, since I lodg'd at Horne Castle in Lincolne∣shire.

From thence on the 18 of August, I road 30 miles to Barton upon Humber, and the next day (being Friday) I tooke a Boat for my selfe, my Squire, and my two Palfreyes, down to Hull, or Kingstone upon Hull, the strength and scituation of which Towne I have formerly written of: and I had no new thing there whereof to make any new Relation: let it suffice, that it is abso∣lutely accounted the strongest and most defensi∣ble Town in the Kingdome of England, and for good goverment inferiour to none: I might speak somewhat of their good fellowship; but my Book would swell big with it, therefore I will pay them with thinking and thanking of them, both my old friends and new acquaintance all in generall.

The 31 of August I left Hull, and road to Holden 16 miles, and on the morrow I road to Cowood Castle, to see the most Reverend Doctor Neale, the Lord Archbishop of Yorke his Grace, whom in all humility I do acknowledge my self much bound in duty daily to pray for, and re∣member him with unfained reverend thankful∣nesse, not only for the undeserved favours and bounty which his Grace extended towards mee now, but for many other former approvements of his Graces love and liberality, when his Grace liv'd neere mee at Winchester House. At Dinner with his Grace, I had the happinesse to renew my Acquaintance with the Noble and Worthy Knight Sir Francis Wortley? who most courteously invited and commanded me to visit him in my journey, of which more followeth.

My humble thanks rememberd to the right worthy worshipfull Knight Sir Paul Neale, with his fair and vertuous Lady, as also my Gratefull remembrance to all my Lords Gentlemen and Servants, to whose loves and for whose friend∣ships I shall ever acknowledge my selfe an in∣gaged Debter.

Thus having past the Sunday with my Lords Grace, and those other before named Gentle∣men. On Munday the second of September, I took my Breakfast and my leave both of Cowood,

and road to Yorke, where I visited the worthy Knight (my old acquaintance) Sir Arthur In∣gram, with whom, I thank his Worship, I dined, and also had some other token of his love and bounty, for the which I remayn thankfull.

Of Yorke I have but little to say, though it be a great, a faire, and the second City in England, built 989 years before our Saviours Birth, by E∣brank King of this Land, from whom the City is called Eboracensis, this Ebrank is said to have 21 Wives, by whom he had 20 sonnes, and 70 daughters: he raigned here when as King Solo∣mon Raigned in Ierusalem; hee overran France, he builded Alclaid, or Dumbritton in Scotland, hee founded York, hee erected a Temple there, and therein plac'd a Flamine to Diana: but after (in King LUCIUS time) Elutherius pull'd downe the said Idolatrous wooden Tem∣ple, and displac'd the Flamine, and caused tho Minster to be built in that magnificent manner of free stone, placing there an Archbishop; se∣verus the Roman Emperour dyed there, and also there dyed the Emperour Flavius Vallerius Con∣stantius (which some call Chlorus) those that will know more of York, let them reade Chro∣nicles and larger Volumes.

The Lord Major of Yorke was (at my being there, one Sir Roger Iaques Knight, a Gentle∣man

of approved wisdome and government: my¦self did not stay three houres, and myne Hoast Master Corney at the Talbot, told mee all the news which I heard there, which was a fellow, that (amongst other offenders) was the first that was hang'd, and the last that was cut down, and being put into the grave or pit, with his fellows, when the earth was cast upon them, he began to stir and recover life, and was return'd to the Gaole is now there living, and able to report truly what hanging is, Probatum est.

From Yorke I rode after Dinner to Tadcaster, and so to a place called Kidell, where at a poore Ale-house I was glad of entertainment, and had the company of a Tinker who made pretty Mu∣sique with his Banbury Kettle-drum, there was also with him two Drovers and 35 Hogs, which were to be driven on the morrow seven miles further to Leeds Market, this good lodging and company, I past the night with all, and on the morrow, I road to the Town of Leeds; of which Towne I must say somewhat. This Town is (for the bignesse of it) one the most populous Towns in England, it hath in it above 12000 people, and having but one Church there, it was not halfe capable to receive so great a Congregation, they were extremly thronged and dangerously crow∣ded (especially in the heat of Summer, or sultry

contagious weather) that the most part of the people were inforc'd eyther to go two or three miles severall ways to other Village Churches, or else to stay at home and want the hearing of Gods Word, and the meanes of their salvation. The care and consideration of these Grievances entred into the pious minde of one Master John Harrison Gentleman there, (now living) so that God opened his heart, that of his owne proper costs he caused a Church to be built (though it have but the name of a Chappell) which is so large, that it will contain 4000 people, it is so neatly compacted and framed, with exquisite art of carving and Masonry, with painting, gilding, polishing, embellishing, and adorning, with a most stately Roofe, a fair losty Tower or Steeple, a sweet Ring of Bels; besides the admirable and costly Joyners and Carvers Workmanship in the Font, Pulpit, Pewes, Chancell, Communion Boord, and all other things and ornaments for the decent adornment of such a House consecra∣ted and dedicated to the Service of God. I do absolutely affirme, that neither the Church or the Founder hath any fellows to be found.

This Chappell is called by the name of Saint Iohn Evangolist, it hath a faire Churchyard for Burials, well and strongly walled about, and at the West end of the Church-yard, the said Gen∣tleman

hath founded a faire Almse-house, and therein placed 21 poore aged people; also hee hath founded and finished a faire School-house for the instruction of youth, and a fine sweet street hee hath built on both sides in a uniforme and faire manner, with Houses: the Rents whereof are for the mayntenance of the Almes∣houses, the Schoole, and Reparations of the Church to the end of the World. And I leave this worthy Founder to God for a blessing, and to the World for imitation.

From Leeds I went to Wakefield, where if the valiant Pinder had been living, I would have play'd Don Quixot's part, and challenged him; but being it was so happy that he was dead, I past the Town in peace to Barnsley, and so to Wortley, to Sir Francis Wortleyes ancient House. The en∣tertainment which himselfe, his good Lady, and his most faire and hopefull daughter gave mee there, as I never did or can deserve, so I never shall be able to requite, to talke of meat, drinke, money, and free welcome for Horse and Man, it were but a meer foolery for me to begin, because then I should run myself into a Labyrinth, out of which I should hardly finde the way: Therefore to his Worship, my humble thanks remembred, and everlasting happinesse wished, both to him and all that is his. Yet I cannot forbeare to write

a little of the further favour of this Noble Knight. Upon the fourteenth of September after∣noon, he took horse with mee, and his Lady and daughter in their Coach, with some other Ser∣vants on horseback; where three miles we rode over Rocks and Cloud-kissing Mountains, one of them is so high, that (in a cleere day) a man may from the top thereof see both the Minsters or Ca∣thedrall Churches, Yorke and Lincolne, neere 60 miles off us; and as it is to be supposed, That when the Devill did looke over Lincolne, as the Pro∣verbe is) that hee stood upon that Mountaine) or neer it: Sir Francis brought me to a Lodge, the place is called Wharncliffe, where the Keeper dwels, who is his man, and keeps all this Woody, Rocky, Stony, Vast Wildernesse under him, for there are many Deere there, and the Keeper were an Asse if he would want Venison, having so good a Master.

Close to the said Lodge, is a Stone in burthen at the least 100 cart loads, the top of it is foure square (by Nature) and about 12 yards compasse, it hath three seats in the forme of Chaires, made by art (as it were in the front of the Rocke) wherein three persons may easily sit, and have a view and goodly prospect over large Woods, Towns, Corn-fields, fruitfull and pleasant Pa∣stures, Valleyes, Rivers, Deere, Neat, Sheep; and all things needful for the life of man: contayned

in thousands of Acres and all (or the better part, belonging to that Noble Knights Ancestors, and himself. Behinde the Stone is a large Inscripti∣on ingraven, where in an old character is de∣scribed the ancient memory of the Wortleys(the Progenitors to Sir Francis now living) for some hundreds of yeares, who were Lords and Ow∣ners of the said Lands and Demaynes which hee now holds as their right Heire. About a Bow shoot from thence (by the descent of many rungs of a ladder) his Worship brought mee to a Cave or Vault in a Rocke, wherein was a Table with feats, and Turfe Cushions round, and in a hole in the same Rock, was three Barrels of nappy liquour, thither the Keeper brought a good Red Deere Pye, cold roast Mutton, and an excellent shooing-born of hang'd Martimas Biefe: which cheer no man living would thinke such a place could afford: so after some merry passages and repast, we returned home.

On the fifth of September, I hired a Guide, and rode to Hallifax 16 miles, the ways were so rocky, stony, boggy and mountaynous, that it was a days journey to ride so short a way. At Hallifax I saw the fatall Engine, wherewith they do behead pilfering Thieves, which Sir Francis Wontley told me was set upon this occasion fol∣lowing.

This Towne of Hallifax hath (for time out of minde) liv'd and subsisted by the rich and lauda∣ble Trade of Cloathing, and oftentimes their Cloathes were stolne from the Tenterhooks, (or Tenters) whereupon the King (then Raigning) upon their humble suite had priviledge granted to the Town for ever: That if a Thiefe were ta∣ken, either of these three ways, which is, Hand∣napping, Back-bearing, or Tongue-telling, that is, either about to steale, or carrying it away, or con∣fessing, that then the party offending (after triall by a Jury of Townsmen) if the goods, be it cloth, cattell, or whatsoever is valuable, is judg'd to have their heads struck off with the said Engine, without any Assize or Sessions. Now the Engine is two high pieces of Timber, an ell or yard asunder, fixed and closed on the top, with a crosse piece like a Gallowse; in the inner sides of the two standing pieces are two gutters, and on the top (or crosse piece is a pulley through which they do put a small Line or Rope, and fast∣ning it to another heavyer piece of wood of 100 weight (in which they doe fix the sharp-edge-toole) then they doe pull or hoyst up the said weight, and the stolne goods is brought to the place of execution with the Malefactor; now one end of the Rope is made fast to a pinne or stake, which being cut, the Engine fals so pon∣derously

and speedily, that it sovers the head from the body in a moment, but there is no man will or must cut the Line, but the Owner of the stolne goods, which if he do, hee hath all again: if he will not cut it, then he must lose all, and it is em∣ployed to some charitable uses; by which means the Thiefe escapes; and this is Hallifax law.

The sixt day I left Hallifax, and road oversuch wayes as are past comparison or amending, for when I went downe the lofty Mountaine called Blackstone Edge, I thought my selfe with my Boy and Horses had been in the land of Break∣neck, it was so steep and tedious, yet I recove∣red 12 miles to Rochdale, and then I found smooth way to Manchester, and to Sandy Lane end 13 miles; and to Chester 14 miles, which was the furthest place of my tedious travell.

For my short stay at Chester (which was but one day and two nights, I had good and friendly entertainment, of many Gentlemen, to whom I must rest thankfull, especially to the Worship∣full Master Alderman Edwards, and to Master Wright and his Wife. It was my fortune to see and rejoyce at the sight of the Noble, Right Ho∣norable Earle and Knight of the Renowned Or∣der of Saint George, William Earle of Darby: And although I have no relation to his Lordship or acquaintance with him, yet for the reverend

reverend respect which I doe owe and beare to Nobility, it did me good to see so grave and ho∣nourable a Peere.

The City of Chester, is of ancient erection and fame, it was the Royall Seat of Kings, and there are yet some ruines left of the memorable Pallace of King Edgar, to which Mansion the said King was rowed in a Barge by eight Cap∣tives (or Tributary Kings from Saint Johns) on the River of Dee, which River there is spoyled and impeached by a bank of stones all over it, onely for theemployment of a Mil or two, which River other ways would be both passable & pro∣fitable to the whole Country, for many miles, for the carriage of goods in Boats & Barks. Chester itself is a fair City four square, well walled, with an old ruin'd Castle, which hath beene a strong Fabrick, but now a Gaole, the streets are spaci∣ous, the buildings sumptuous, and so contrived, that four or five men may walk in the most parts of a breast, dry from the injury of Raine, or any falling Weather: it is gravely and peaceably go∣verned by a Major and his 12 Brethren, it hath foure Gates and three Posterns, goodly Chur∣ches, and chiefly painfull and learned Preachers. And so much for Chester.

Onely a merry Tale, of a late true businesse which hapned there; There dwelt a Bricklayer, a

good Workman (but a good husband) whose name was Iohn Tilly, who had the good hap to spend all that he got in his lifetime, except two sonnes and one daughter: And being sicke and in his death-bed, there came a poore neighbour to visit him, whom he desired to make or write his last Will and Testament; the poor man (ha∣ving Ink and Paper) asked him what hee should write?

Quoth honest John Tittle, my estate is but little, but I pray thee write thus.

IMprimis, I give and bequeath to my Wife (for her solace and comfort) my little Dog, for it is a pretty nimble active Curre, and wil make her some sport which may delight her, and put the grief of my death out of her sad remembrance.

Item, I give and bequeath to my eldest sonne John, all my working Tools belonging to my trade of Bricklaying, which as hee may use, may be as available to him, as they have beene to me, and this is the summe of my Will.

His youngest sonne standing by, sayd, Father, have you nothing to give mee? Yes sonne (quoth hee) I had almost forgotten thee, but I will leave thee somewhat.

Item, I give and bequeath to my sonne George seven foot of ground vnder the Gallowse.

Good father take comfort (said George) for my hope is that you will recover, and live to enjoy that Legacie your selfe.

Then the daughter pray'd him to give her somewhat whereby she might remember his fa∣therly love, Yes, quoth he, I pray write.

Item, I give and bequeath to my onely daughter a Whores conditions and qualities, which as shee may use them, she may live in such estate and fame that she may be mistaken for a Gentlewoman.

Lastly, I doe make and ordaine my Neighbour here, my full Executor: and for his paines for writing my Will, I do give him and his heires male for ever, an old shooing-horn.

The ninth of September I turn'd my back upon Chester, (almost without taking leave) and road 15 miles to Nantwich, the tenth I rode to Stone and to Lichfield, 22 miles.

Of the Ancient Town of Lichfield I can say nothing (by reason of my short stay) onely there

is a faire and curious old Cathedrall Church or Minster.

And the Towne hath that priviledge (as mine Hoast told me) that they can draw and hang one another, and never trouble any other Judge, As∣size, or Sessions.

The eleventh I rode to Faseley, Abersom, Hinckley and Dadlington, eighteen miles, where all weary and almost worne out with age and travell, I rested untill Saturday the fourteenth of September, and then rode eight miles to my brother Miles, at my old welcome lodging at Leicester.