All the vvorkes of Iohn Taylor the water-poet Beeing sixty and three in number. Collected into one volume by the author: vvith sundry new additions corrected, reuised, and newly imprinted, 1630.

To the purpose then: my first nights lod∣ging in Scotland was at a place called Mophot, which they say, is thirty miles from Carlile, but I suppose them to be longer then forty of such miles as are betwixt London and Saint Al∣banes, (but indeed the Scots doe allow al∣most as large measure of their miles, as they doe of their drinke, for an English Gallon ei∣ther of Ale or Wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile (now and then, may well stand for a mile and a halfe or two English) but howsoeuer short or long, I found that dayes iourney the weariest that euer I footed; and at night being come to the Towne, I found good ordinary Countrey entertain∣ment; my fare and my lodging was sweet and good, and might haue serued a farre better man then my selfe, although my selfe haue had many times better: but this is to be noted, that though it rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twise, for I waded ouer a great riuer called Eske in the morning, some∣what more then foure miles distance from Cu∣lile in England, and at night within two miles of my lodging; I was faine to wade ouer the Riuer of Annan in Scotland, from which Riuer the County of Annandale, hath it's name, And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horse-backe••, like the George without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and left Mophot behind me, and that day I tra∣ueled twenty one miles to a sory Village cal∣led Blithe, but I was blithe my selfe to come to any place of harbour or succour, for since I was borne, I neuer was so weary, or so neere being dead with extreme trauell; I was foun∣derd and refounderd of all foure, and for my better comfort, I came so late, that I must lodge without doores all night, or else in a poore house where the good-wife lay in Child-bed, her husband being from home, her owne seruant mayde being her nurse. A Creature naturally compacted, and artificial∣ly adorned with an incomparable homelines; but as things were I must either take or leaue, and necessity made mee enter, where we gat Egges and Ale by measure and by tale. At last to bed I went, my man lying on the floore by mee, where in the night there were Pid∣geons did very bountifully mute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and hauing but fifteene miles to Edenborough, mounted vpon my ten toes, and began first to hobble, and after to amble, and so being warme, I fell to pace by degrees; all the way passing tho∣row a fertill Countrey for Corne and Cattle: and about two of the clocke in the afternoone

that Wednesday, being the thirteenth of August, and the day of Clare the Virgin (the signe being in Virgo) the Moone foure dayes ••old, the wind at West, I came to take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous City of Edenborough, which I entred like Pierce pennilesse, altogether monyles, but I thanke God, not friendlesse; for being there, for the time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend it I could get, begge if I had the impudence, and steale, if I durst ad∣uenture the price of a hanging, but my pur∣pose was to house my horse, and to suffer him and my apparell to lye in durance, or Lauen∣der in stead of Litter, till such time as I could meete with some valiant friend, that would desperately disburse.

Walking thus downe the street, (my body being tyred with trauell, and my minde atty∣red with moody, muddy, Moore-ditch me∣lancholly) my Contemplation did deuoutly pray, that I might meete one or other to prey vpon, being willing to take any slender ac∣quaintance of any map whatsoeuer, viewing, and circumviewing euery mans face I met, as if I meant to drawe his picture, but all my ac∣quaintance was Nonest Inuentus, (pardon me Reader, that Latine is none of mine owne, I sweare by Priscians Parteranion, an oath which I haue ignorantly broken many times.) At last I resolu'd, that the next Gentleman that I met withall, should be acquaintance whether hee would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes vpon a Gentleman-like obiect, I looked on him, as if I would suruay something through him, and make him my perspectiue: and hee much musing at my gazing, and I much ga∣zing at his musing, at last he crost the way and made toward me, and then I made downe the street from him, leauing to encounter with my man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thus accosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder Gentleman, (mea∣ning me) know me, that he lookes so wistly on me? Truely Sir, said my man, I thinke not, but my Matter is a stranger come from London, and would gladly meete some acquaintance to direct him where he may haue lodging and horse-meate. Presently the Gentleman, (being of a generous disposition) ouer-tooke me with vnexpected and vndeserued courtesie, brought me to a lodging, and caused my horse to bee put into his owne stable, whilest we discour∣sing ouer a pinte of Spanish, I related as much English to him, as made him lend me tenne shillings, (his name was Master Iohn Maxwell) which money I am sure was the first that I han∣dled after I came from out the walls of London: but hauing rested two houres and refreshed my selfe, the Gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as my poore vnable and vnworthy pen can, I will truly de∣scribe.

The Castle on a loftie Rocke is so strongly grounded, bounded, and founded, that by force of man it can neuer be confounded; the Foundation and Walls are vnpenetrable, the Rampiers impregnable, the Bulwarkes inuin∣cible, no way but one to it is or can be possible to be made passable. In a word, I haue seene many Straights and Fortresses, in Germany, the Netherlands, Spaipe, and England, but they must all giue place to this vnconquered Castle, both for strength and scituation.

Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I noted especially a great peece of Ordnance of Iron, it is not for batte∣rie, but it will serue to defend a breach, or to tosse balies of wilde-fire against any that should assaile or assault the Castle; it lyes now dismonted. And it is so great within, that it was told me that a Childe was once gotten there: but I, to make tryall crept into it, lying on my backe, and I am sure there was roome enough and spare for a greater then my selfe.

So leauing the Castle, as it is both defen∣siue against any opposition, and magnificke for lodging and receite, I descended lower to the City, wherein I obserued the fairest and goodliest streete that euer mine eyes beheld, for I did neuer see or heare of a street of that length, (which is halfe an English mile from the Castle to a faire Port which they call the Neather-bow) and from that Port, the streete which they call the Kem••••••••ate is one quarter of a mile more, downe to the Kings Palace, cal∣led

Holy-rood-House, the buildings on each side of the way being all of squared stone, fiue, six, and seuen stories high, and many by-Lanes and Closes on each side of the way, wherein are Gentlemens houses, much fairer then the buildings in the high-street, for in the high∣street the Marchants and Tradesmen do dwell, but the Gentlemens mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely fonnded in the aforesaid Lanes: the Walles are eight or tenne foote thicke, exceeding strong, not built for a day, a weeke, or a moneth, or a yeere; but from Antiquitie to Posteritie, for many Ages; There I found entertainement beyond my ex∣pectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in such variety, that I thinke I may offencelesse call it super fluity, or saciety. The worst was, that Wine and Ale was so scarce, and the people there such Mizers of it, that euery night before I went to bed, if any man had asked me a ciuill question, all the wit in my head could not haue made him a so∣ber answer.

I was at his Maiesties Palace, a stately and Princely seate, wherein I saw a sumptuous Chappell, most richly adorned with all appur∣tenances belonging to so sacred a place, or so Royall an owner. In the inner Court, I saw the Kings Armes cunningly carued in stone, and fixed ouer a doore aloft on the wall, the red Lyon being the Crest, ouer which was writ∣ten this inscription in Latine,

Nobis hat inu••cta miserunt, 106. proaui.

I enquired what the English of it was? it was told me as followeth, which I thought worthy to be recorded.

106. Fore-fathers haue left this to vs vnchnquered.

This is a worthy and memorable Motto, and I thinke few kingdomes or none in the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so many inroades, incursions, attemps, as∣saults, Ciuill warres, and forraigne hostili∣ties, bloody battels, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre the strength and policy of enemies, that Royall Crowne and Scepter hath from one hundred and seuen descents, kept still vnconquered, and by the power of the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of peace) is now left peacefully to our peacefull King, whom long in blessed peace, the God of peace defend and gouerne.

But once more, a word or two of E•••••••••• rough, although I haue scarcely giuent it that due which belongs vnto it, for their lofty and stately buildings, and for their faire and spa∣cious streete, yet my minde perswades me that they in former ages that first founded that Ci∣tie did not so well in that they built it in so di•••• commodious a place; for the Sea, and all na∣uigable riuers being the chiefe meanes for the enriching of Townes and Cities, by the reason of Traffique with forraine Nations, with ex∣portation, transportation, and receite of va∣riety of Marchandizing; so this Citie had it beene built but one mile lower on the Sea fide, I doubt not but it had long before this beene comparable to many a one of our grea∣test Townes and Cities in Europe, both for spa∣ciousnesse of bounds, Port, state, and riches. It is said, that King Iames the fifth (of famous memory) did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow vpon them freely, cer∣taine low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on the Sea shore, with these conditions, that they should pull downe their Citie, and build it in that more commodious place, but the Citizens refused it: and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt such another profer of remouall will not bee presented to them, till two dayes after the Faire.

Now haue with you for Leeth, whereto I no sooner came, but I was well entertained by Master Barnard Lindsay, one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber, hee knew my estate was not guilty, because I brought guilt with me (more then my sins, and they would not passe for current there) hee therefore did replenish the vaustity of my empty purse, & discharged a piece at mec with two bullets of gold, each being in value worth eleuen shil∣lings white money: and I was credibly infor∣med, that within the compasse of one yeere, there was shipped away from that onely Port of Leeth, foure score thousand Boles of Wheat, Oates, and Barley into Spaine, France, and other fortaine parts, and euery Bole containes

the measure of foure English bushels, so that from Leeth onely hath beene transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of Corne; besides some hath beene shipped away from Saint Andrewes, from Dundee, Aberdeene, Desert, Kirkady, Kinghorne; Burnt-Iland, Dunbar, and other portable Townes, which makes me to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it is, should neuerthelesse sell so much bread∣••orne beyond the Seas, and yet to haue more then sufficient for themselues.

So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne of Leeth, tooke a passage Boate to see the new ••••rondrous Well, to which many a one that is not well, comes farre and neere in hope to be made well: indeed I did heare that it had done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expell or kill diuers maladies; as to prouoke appetite, to helpe much for the auoyding of the grauell in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old vlcers, with many other vertues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God, hauing no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done, but for nouelty I dranke of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasant then any other water, sweet almost as milke, yet as cleare as cristall, and I did ob∣serue, that though a man did drinke a quart, a pottle, or as much as his belly could con∣taine, yet it neuer offended or lay heauy vpon the stomacke, no more then if one had dranke but a pint or a small quantity.

I went two miles from it to a Towne called Burnt-Iland, where I found many of my espe∣ciall good friends, as Master Robert ••ay, one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber, Master Dauid Drummend, one of his Gentle∣men Pentioners, Master Iames Acmooty, one of the Groomes of the Priuie Chamber, Cap∣taine Muray, Sir Henry Witherington Knight, Captaine Iyrie, and diuers others: and there Master Hay, Master Drummond, and the good olde Captaine Murray did very bountifully furnish mee with gold for my expences, but I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentle∣men, as we were discoursing, there befell a strange accident, which I thinke worth the re∣lating.

I know not vpon what occasion they began to talke of being at Sea in former times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of ••a••es: whereto an English Gentleman replyed, that hee was the next good voyage after at the Ilands: I answered him that I was there also. He demanded in what ship I was? I tolde him in the Rainebowe of the Queenes: why (quoth he) doe you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my name is Witherington.

Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeers since I saw you, I may well forget the know∣ledge of you. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me some remarkable to∣ken that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him two or three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will tell you another which (perhaps) you haue not forgotten; as our ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at Anchor at the Ile of Flores (one of the Iles of the Azores) there were some foure∣teene men and boyes of our ship, that for no∣uelty would goe ashore, and see what fruit the Iland did beare, and what entertainment it would yeeld vs: so being landed, we went vp and downe and could finde nothing but stones, heath and mosse, and wee expected Oranges, Limonds, Figges, Muske-millions, and Potatoes: in the meane space the wind did blow so stiffe, and the Sea was so extreme rough, that our Ship-boate could not come to the land to fetch vs, for feare she should bee beaten in pieces against the rockes: this conti∣nued fiue dayes, so that we were almost fami∣shed for want of food: but at last (I squandring vp and downe) by the prouidence of God I hapned into a Caue or poore habitation, where I found fifteene loaues of bread, each of the quantity of a penny loafe in England, I hauing a valiant stomacke of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty houres breeding, fell to, and ate two loaues and neuer said grace: and as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the third loafe, I did put twelue of them into my breeches, and my sleeues, and so went mum∣bling out of t••e Caue, leaning my backe a∣gainst a Tree, when vpon the sudden a Gen∣tleman

came to me, and said, Friend, what are you eating? Bread, (quoth I.) For Gods sake said he, giue me some. With that, I put my hand into my breech, (being my best pantrey) and I gaue him a Loafe, which hee receiued with many thankes, and said, that if euer hee could requite it, he would.

I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir Henry Witherington did acknowledge himselfe to bee the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto two and twenty yeeres before, where I found the Prouerbe true, that men haue more priuiledge then mountaines in meeting.

In what great measure hee did requite so small a courtesie, I wi•• relate in this following discourse in my Returne through Northumber∣land: So leauing my man at the Town of Burnt Iland, I tolde him, I would but goe to Ster∣ling, and see the Castle there, and withall to see my honourable friends the Earle of Marr, and Sir William Murray Knight, Lord of Aber∣carny, and that I would returne within two dayes at the most: But it fell out quite contra∣ry; for it was fine and thirtie dayes before I could get backe againe out of these Noble mens company. The whole progres of my tra∣uell with them, and the cause of my stay, I'can∣not with gratefulnesse omit; and thus it was.

A worthy Gentleman named Master Iohn Fenton, did bring me on my way sixe miles to Dumfermling, where I was well entertained, and lodged at Master Iohn Gibb his house, one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed chamber, and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath: withall, I was well entertained there by Ma∣ster Crighton at his owne house, who went with me, and shewed me the Queenes Palace; (a delicate & Princely Mansion) withall I saw the ruines of an ancient & stately built Abey, with faire gardens, orchards, medowes belonging to the Palace: all which with faire & goodly reue∣nues by the suppression of the Abbey, were an∣nexed to the Crowne. There also I saw a very faire Church, which though it bee now very large and spacious, ••yet it hath in former times beene much larger. But I taking my leaue of Dumfermling, would needs goe and see the truely Noble Knight Sir George Bruce, at a Towne called the Coor as: there he made m•••• right welcome, both with varietie of fare, and after all, hee commanded three of his men••••s direct mee to see his most admirable Cole mines; which (if man can or could worke wonders) is a wonder: for my selfe neither in any trauels that I haue beene in, nor any Hi∣story that I haue read, or any Discourse that I haue heard, did neuer see, read, or heare of any worke of man that might parallell or bee equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnm••••∣chable work: & though all I can say of it, can∣not describe it according to the worthines of his vigilant industry, that was both the occa∣sion, Inuentor, & Maintainer of it: yet rather then the memory of so rare an Enterprise, and so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of obliuion, I will giue a little touch at the descri∣ption of it, although I amongst Writers, as like he that worst may hold the candle.

The Mine hath two wayes into it, the one by sea and the other by land; but a man may goe into it by land, and returne the same way if he please, and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it: but I •••• varieties sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men may obiect, how can a man goe in∣to a Mine, the entrance of it being into the sea, but that the Sea will follow him, and so drown the Mine? To which obiection thus I answer, That at low water, the sea being ebd away, and a great part of the sand bare; vpon this same sand (being mixed with rockes and cragges) did the Master of this great worke build a round circular frame of stone, very thicke, strong, and ioyned together with glu∣tinous or bitumous matter, so high withall that the Sea at the highest flood, or the greatest rage of storme or tempest, can neither dis∣solue the stones so well compacted in the buil∣ding or yet ouerflowe the height of it. Within this round frame, (at all aduentures) hee did set workemen to digge with Mattockes, Pick∣axes, and other instruments fit for such pur∣poses. They did dig forty foot downe right, into and through a rocke. At last they found that which they expected, which was Sea-cole,

they following the veine of the Mine, did dig ••••rward still: So that in the space of eight and ••••enty or nine and twenty yeeres, they haue ••••gged more then an English mile vnder the ••ea, that when men are at worke belowe, an hundred of the greatest shippes in Britaine ••ay saile ouer their heads. Besides, the Mine •• most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault, •••• that great length, with many nookes and •• wayes: and it is so made, that a man may ••alke vpright in the most places, both in and ••••t. Many poore people are there set on work, which otherwise through the want of imploy∣••ent would perish. But when I had seene the line, and was come forth of it againe; after ••y thankes giuen to Sir George B••uce, I told ••m, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason •• England had seene this Mine, that they (per∣••••ps) would haue attempted to haue left the ••arliament House, and haue vndermined the ••hames, and so to haue blowne vp the Barges ••nd Wherries, wherein the King, and all ••e Estates of our Kingdome were. Moreo∣••er, I said, that I could affoord to turne Tap∣••er at London, so that I had but one quarter of •• mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler, to ••••epe Beere and Bottle-ale in. But leauing ••ese Iests in Prose, I will relate a few Verses ••at I made merrily of this Mine.