An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson Gent. First in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres trauell through the tvvelue dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts. The I. part. Containeth a iournall through all the said twelue dominions: shewing particularly the number of miles, the soyle of the country, the situation of cities, the descriptions of them, with all monuments in each place worth the seeing, as also the rates of hiring coaches or horses from place to place, with each daies expences for diet, horse-meate, and the like. The II. part. Containeth the rebellion of Hugh, Earle of Tyrone, and the appeasing thereof: written also in forme of a iournall. The III. part. Containeth a discourse vpon seuerall heads, through all the said seuerall dominions.

AN ITINERARY WRITTEN BY FYNES MORYSON, Gent. CONTAINING His ten yeeres trauels thorovv TWELUE DOMINIONS. The First Part. (Book 1)

The First BOOKE.

CHAP. I. Of my iourny from London (in England) to Stode, Hamburg, Lubeck, Luneburg, my returne to Hamburg, and iourney to Magdeburg, Leipzig, Witteberg, and the neighbouring Cities (in Germany.)

BEing a Student of Peter-house, in Cambridge, and entred the eighteenth yeere of my age, I tooke the degree of Bachelar of Arts, and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said Col∣ledge by Queene Elizabeths Mandat. Three yeers expired from my first degree taken in the Vniuer∣fitie, I commenced Master of Arts, and within a yeere after, by the fauour of the Master and Fel∣lowes, I was chosen to a vacant place of Priuiledge to studie the Ciuill Lawes. Then, as well for the or∣nament of this profession, as out of my innated de∣sire to gaine experience by trauelling into forraigne parts, (to which course my Parents had giuen consent some few yeers past, vpon my first declaring of my in∣clination to the said profession,) vpon the priuiledge of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to trauell, I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master and Fellowes, in the yeere 1589, being then full 23 yeeres old. And presently leauing the Vniuersiy, I went to London, there to follow some studies fit to inable me in this course; and there better taught, and these studies, the visiting of my

friends in the Country, my going to Oxford to take the same degree I had in Cam∣bridge, and some oppositions vpon new deliberation made by my father and friends against my iourney, detained me longer in those parts then I purposed.

At last, in the beginning of the yeere 1591, and vpon the first day of May, I tooke ship at Liegh, distant from London twenty eight miles by land, and thirtie six * 1.1 by water, where Thames in a large bed is carried into the Sea. Thence we set saile into the maine, and the eight day of our sailing, the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships being dispersed by a fogge and tempest, two Dunkerke Pirats followed our ship, till (by Gods mercy) the fog being cleared after some few houres, and two of our ships vpon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards vs, the Pirates despairing left to pursue vs. That they were Pirates was apparant, since as wee for triall turned our sayles, they likewise fitted themselues to our course, so as wee though flying, yet prepared our selues to fight, till God thus deliuered vs. The ninth day towards night, wee fell vpon an Iland called the Holy-land (vulgarly Heiligland), and not daring to enter the Riuer Elue before the next morning, wee strucke all sayles, and suffered our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waues all that night, (which Marriners call lying at Hull.) This Iland hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships, in the forme of the Moone decreasing, and lying open to the East. On the North side is a great Rocke, and the rest of the shore is all of high Cliffes. It is subiect to the Duke of Holste, and by that title to the King of Den∣marke; but the inhabitants are so poore, as they yeeld no other tribute then stones for the Dukes building. It is in circuit some three miles, and hath about one hun∣dred Families.

The tenth day we entred the Riuer Elue, and landed at Stode. This is an ancient * 1.2 Citie, and one of the Empires free Cities, and one of those Sea-Townes, which from the priuiledge of traffick with their Neighbours, are called Free Cities (vulgar∣ly Hansteten), but of late was become so poore, as they had sold the priuiledge of coyning money, and some like Rights to Hamburg; till the English Merchants re∣mouing their seate of trafficke from Hamburg to Stode, it began lately to grow rich, not without the enuy and impouerishment of the Hamburgers. In the Dutch Inns I paid for each meale foure Lubeck shillings and an halfe, and in the English Innes eight pence English. In the great winding and troubled Streame of Elue, which ebs and flowes as high as Luneburg, certaine Booyes are laid to shew the channels and sholes of the Riuer, and the maintaining of each of them cost 40 pounds yeere∣ly, and of all a thousand pounds at the least, at the common charge of Stode and Hamburg: but after frosts begin, they are taken vp, and reserued to the next Spring. Of old when Stode flourished, this charge belonged onely to it, taking some contributions of the other Cities for the same. This free Citie had then chosen the Bishop of Breme for their Protector, and had but small scattered reuenewes, to the value, of ninety pounds sterling by the yeere; but the soile is so fertile, as they milke their Cowes thrice each day. Of late the Hamburgers had in vaine attempted by Na∣uall forces to forbid the arriuall of the English at Stode, whom as they had grieued hauing their seate with them, as well with exactions, as with forbidding them free exercise of Religion, so now sometimes by laire treatie, sometimes by force, they la∣boured to draw backe vnto them. Those of Stode haue by priuiledge the preemp∣tion and choice of Rhenish Wines passing by them. This Citie might be made strong, if the workes they haue begun were perfected. The fields of the North and East sides may bee drowned, and because the high Hilles towards the West and South (though somewhat distant) seemed to threaten danger, they had on those sides raised an high and broad wall of earth, fastned on the out-side with Wil∣lowes, in which place an Armory for all munitions was built; but the gates of the Citie, for ridiculous ostentation of strength, were furnished with Artillery of stone painted ouer. The territory without the City belongs on the West side to the Bi∣shop of Breame, and on the East side to the Earle of Scbeneburg and the Duke of Holst. From Stode to Hamburg are fiue miles. In a Waggon hired for fiue Lubecke

shillings each person, wee passed two miles, then crossing the Elue (not without dan∣ger in respect of the shallow places and present storme) wee hired another Waggon for foure Lubeck shillings each person, and through thicke woods passed the other three miles to Hamburg. The passage by water to Hamburg had beene much easier, especially for a stranger, and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space, if the winde bee not contrary, wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage: but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe, or hire one in his stead, except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares; besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice.

Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire, and one of them which (as I said) are called * 1.3 Hansteten, and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised. The Senate house is very beautifull, and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies. The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place. The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine. The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch, and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall. Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile, by pipes of wood, because those of lead would be broken by the yce, and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge, whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house. The Territory of the Citie ex∣tendeth a mile or two, and on one side three miles out of the walles. It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead. It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle, but hath very fatte pasture ground without. On the South side and some part of the West, it is washed with the Riuer Elue, which also putteth a branch into the Towne, but on the North and somewhat on the East side, the Ri∣uer Alster runneth by towards Stode, and falleth into the Elue. The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street (vulgarly Breitgasse.) The building is all of bricke (as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities, lying from these parts towards Flan∣ders) and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance, hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house, and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore, the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed, and especially their vessell of English Pewter, which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by; so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly. Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings, and one each night for my bed. The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English, to whom (or to any stranger) it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone, for when the common people are once warmed with drinke, they are apt to doe them iniury. My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets, heard them say these words: Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf, that is, cast the tenth at the Englishmans head. But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode, were content si∣lently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not. Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck, an Imperiall Citie, and one of the aboue named Hans-townes, being tenne miles distant from Hamburg. Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings, and going forth early, wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine, and many woods of Oakes (which in these parts are frequent, as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany) and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow, for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground, where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe, our Dutch companions contributing halfe that mo∣ney for drinke after dinner. In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lu∣beck, in the space of foure houres, and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne, wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them, (for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost, either for beautie or because they are so huge & frequent as they cannot be consumed). When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills, and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated.

On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary, whence there * 1.4 was a descent to all the gates of the Citie, whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect, and promised great magnificence in the building. The Citie is compassed with a double wall, one of bricke and narrow, the other of earth and broad, fastned with thicke rowes of willowes. But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles, those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water. On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow, but is so deepe. as ships of a thou∣sand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter, being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea. To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres, each man paying for his Coach fiue Lu∣beck shillings, and foure for our dinner, and returned backe the same night to Lubeck. The building of this City is very beautifull, all of bricke, and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles. The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels, to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a run∣ning streame. Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes, and all the Brew∣ers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock, which being turned, the water fals into their vessels. Though the building of this towne be of the same mat∣ter as that of the neighbouring townes, yet it is much preferred before them, for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses; for the pleasant gardens, faire streets, sweete walkes without the walles, and for the Citizens themselues, who are much commen∣ded for ciuilty of manners, and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages. There is a street called the Funst Hauss∣gasse, that is, the street of fiue houses, because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt ex∣cepting fiue houses; since which time they haue a law, that no man shall build of timber and clay, except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad; and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles, brasse, or leade. The forme of this Citie is like a lozing, thicke in the midst and grow∣ing narrower towards the two ends, the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South, to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side, to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side. It is as long againe as broad, and two streets, Breitgasse, that is, Broad-street, and Konnigsgasse, that is, Kings-street, runne the whole length of the Towne, and sixe other streets make the breadth; and if you stand in the midst of any of these streets, you may there see both the ends thereof. Here I paied each meale foure Lubeck shil∣lings, hauing my bed free; for a quart of Rhenish wine fiue Lubeck shillings, and as much for Sack, neither doe I remember that euer I had a more pleasant abiding in Germany, either for the sweetnes of the place, the curtesie of the people, or my diet. The Citizens are very courteous to all strangers, whom the Lawes extraordinarily fauour aboue the natiues, so they onely abide there for a time and be not inhabitants, neither are they lesse friendly to the English, though they complaine of iniuries (so they call them) offered them by vs at Sea. This City hath many things worth the seeing. There be tenne faire Churches, whereof one was vsed for an Armory of all muniti∣ons for warre. Saint Maries Cathedrall Church (vulgarly Vnserfraw kirke) is fairer then the rest, where there is a faire and artificiall Clocke, in the top whereof is a pic∣ture, whereof both the eares of the head are seene, which Painters esteeme a master worke. In the Porch thereof are three Marble pillars, each of them thirtie foot long of one stone, onely one of them is peeced for one foot. But the Image of the Virgin Mary in this Church, and of Christ crucified in Burk Kirke are thought workes of sin∣gular art; for which they say a Spanish Merchant offered a masse of money. I will confesse truely, that my selfe beholding the Virgins statua all of stone, did thinke it had beene couered with a gowne of white buffin, and that being altogether vnskilfull in the grauing Art, yet I much admired the workmanship. Without Millen Port there is a Conduit of water, which serues all the Towne, the more notable because it was the first of that kinde, which since hath beene dispersed to London and other places. On al sides out of the towne there be sweet walks, especially towards Hierusalem (so

they call the Passion of Christ grauen in diuers pillars) where also is a pleasant groue, vnder the shade whereof Rope-makers and like Artificers vse to worke. The Ca∣nons of the Cathedrall Church haue great priuiledges, and as it were an absolute power ouer themselues, and of old they had a gate of the City free to themselues to goe in or out at pleasure; till the Citizens finding how dangerous it was to the main∣taining of their freedome from any subiection, vpon a good opportunitie when the Emperour came thither, did of set purpose lead him into the City by that gate, where falling on their knees they besought him that it might be bricked vp, and neuer more opened, he being the last man that euer should enter thereat.

From Lubeck we tooke our iourney to Luneburg, being tenne miles distant, and the first night we lodged in a Village called Millen, where a famous lester Oulenspiegell (whom we call Owly-glasse) hath a Monument erected: hee died in the yeere 1350. and the stone couering him is compassed with a grate, least it should bee broken and carried away peece-meale by Passengers, which they say hath once already been done by the Germanes. The Towns-men yeerely keepe a feast for his memory, and yet shew the apparell he was wont to weare. This Country is barren and sandy ground; full of thicke Woods of Oakes: by the way in Kasborough Castle, they said that a Duke of inferior Saxony lay imprisoned by the Emperours command, his brother gouerning the Dukedome, charged with great debts by his prodigality; but his Vil∣lages hereabouts were possessed by the Hamburgers and Lubeckers by right of mor∣gage. We passed the Elue twice, the Coach-man paying for himselfe his Coach, and each one of vs a Lubeck shilling, and beyond the Elue the ground was somewhat more fertile. At Millen I paid for my supper foure Lubeck shillings and a halfe.

The next day we came to Luneburg, which by the Citizens for defence of their * 1.5 libertie was strongly fortified, for it is one of the free Imperiall Cities; but the Duke of Luneburg challengeth a superiority ouer it. The walles built of earth are high and broad and the ditches very deepe. The building is very faire, especially that of the Senate house, and almost all the houses are of bricke. They haue two large market places, and the streets are broad, but very filthy and full of ill smels. The City it selfe being almost of a round forme is seated in a Valley, but hath Mountaines neere it on the West side, and further off on the East; An high Mountaine called Kalkberg han∣geth ouer it on the North side; in the top whereof is a strong Castle, which the Ci∣tizens had got into their hands some threescore yeres before my being there. Not far from the City is a Monestary called Luna, whereof some say the Towne was named, others say it had the name of the Riuer running by it now called Eluenau, of eleuen Riuers running into it; which Histories testifie to haue beene called Luna of old. But others proue both the Riuer and the Towne to haue had their names of the Idol Isis, bearing two hornes of the Moone, which was kept in the Castle vpon Kalkberg, and worshipped by the people. Among the things best deseruing to be seen is the Foun∣taine of Salt, and the house wherein salt is boyled, ouer the gate whereof these verses are written.

Ecce salinarum dulcissima dona coquuntur. Gratuita summi de bonitate Dei: Mons, Pons, Fons, tna dona Deus, da pectore crescat, In nostro pietas, nec minuatur Amor. Behold of finest salt this Fount doth store afford, By the Almighties grace and free gift from aboue: The Mountaine, Bridge and Fountaine are thy gifts O Lord, For which let vs increase in pietie and loue.

To all the poore round about, and to all the Citizens for their priuate vse salt wa∣ter is freely giuen: and they say this Fountaine once lost his vertue when they de∣nied to giue water to the poore. Euery one giues the Porter a small reward when he comes in, not when he goes out, as otherwhere is vsed; for this is proper to the Ger∣manes that they will be paied ere they begin to worke, as if they had done. The pro∣fit

of this salt Fountaine is diuided into diuers parts; some to the City, some to the Duke of Luneberg, (who howsoeuer he be so called, yet hath no power ouer the City but onely ouer the Countrey;) some belongs to the Monastary, and diuers Earles haue their parts, (whereof some boyle not the salt in their owne name, but set it out to others:) There be fifty two roomes, and in each of them eight leaden pannes, in which eight tunnes of salt are daily boyled, and each tunne is worth eight Flemmish shillings. In the said Monastery within the Towne, they shew a table of gold, which Henry Leo Duke of Saxony tooke from Milan and placed here, and it is fastned to the Altar, being more then an ell and halfe long, and about three quarters broad, and lit∣tle or nothing thicker then a French crowne. They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold, which they said a certaine Queene once tooke from them, but presently fell lu∣natike, neither could be cured vntill she had restored them. In the open streets some Monuments are set on the walles, in honour of certaine Citizens, who died in a nights tumult, when the Duke hoped to surprize the City. I said that the Senate house is stately built, in which they shew to strangers many vessels of gold and siluer, of a great value and quantity for a City of that quality. From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg, whither I and my company might haue had a Coach for 4. Dollors. But we misliking the price hired a waggon for three Lubeck shillings each person to Went∣zon, three miles distant from Luneburg. Here the Duke of Lunebergs territory ends, to whom each man paid a Lubeck shilling for tribute, my selfe onely excepted, who had that priuiledge because I went to study in the Vniuersities. Here each man paied two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon to the Elue side, being one mile, and the same day by water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg, not without great noy somnesse from some base people in the boat; for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shil∣lings. Let me admonish the Reader, that if when we tooke boat we had onely crossed the Elue, we might haue hired a Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg (being three miles) for two Dollors amongst six persons. Being at Hamburg and purposing to goe vp into Misen, because I had not the language, I compounded with a Mer∣chant to carry mee in his Coach, and beare my charges to Leipzig for tenne gold Guldens.

The first day hauing broke our faste at Hamburg, we passed seauen miles ouer the Heath of Luneburg, and lodged in a Village. In our way we passed many Villages of poore base houses, and some pleasant groues; but all the Countrey was barren, yet yeelded corne in some places, though in no plenty. The second day we came to a lit∣tle City Corneiler, through a Countrey as barren as the former, and towards our iour∣neis end wee passed a thicke wood of a mile long. The third day we went seuen miles to Magdenburg, which is counted sixe and twenty miles from Hamburg, and this day * 1.6 we passed a more fertile Countrey, and more wooddy; and they shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg, famous with many ridiculous fables of Witches yeere∣ly meeting in that place. This City of old called Parthenopolis, of Venus Parthenea, is now called Magdenburg, that is, the City of Virgins, & for an Inland City is very faire, and the Germans speake much of the fortification, because Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army, yet tooke it not. Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee attributed to the strength of the City, as to the distracted mind of the besieger, who in the meane time sollicited the French King to ioyne with the Dutch Princes to free Germanie from the Emperours tyranny, and the French Army being once on foot, himselfe raised forces against the Emperour. The forme of this City is like a Moone increasing, the Bishopricke there∣of is rich, and the Margraue of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse it, toge∣ther with the City and territory, by the title of Administrator, in which sort he also held the Bishopricke of Hall, and he lay then at Wormested, a Castle not farre of. In the market place there is a Statua erected to the Emperour Otho the Great, founder of that City, and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland, which I remem∣ber not to haue seene. In the Senate-house, they shewed a singular picture, made by one Lucas a famous Painter, dead some thirty yeeres before; where also is the picture

of that monstrous German, with all the dimensions of his body, who not long be∣fore was led about the world to be shewed for a wonder. This man I had not seene, but in this picture I could scarce reach the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier, and many of good credit told me, that they had seene this mans sister halfe an ell higher then he. In the Church that lies neere the market place, there is a Font of great worth, and a Lute painted with great Art: the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mau∣rice was built by Otho the Great, very sumptuously, where his wife lies buried in the yeere 948. and the inscription is; that shee was daughter to Edmund King of England. There they shew one of the three vessels in which our Sauiour Christ turned water in∣to wine at Cana in Galile. There be in all ten Churches, but the aboue named are the fairest. Hence we went foureteene miles to Leipzig, being a day and a halfes iourney through fruitfull corne fields, and a Countrey full of rich Villages, the Merchant with whom I went, bearing my charges: from Hamburg I might haue hired a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons (those of Nurnburg bearing eight) for 24. dollers, and if a man goe thence to Luneburg, he may easily light on a Coach of returne at a lesse rate, so that in respect of the cheapnes of victuals in these parts, no doubt I gaue the Mer∣chant too much for my charges in this iourney.

Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne ground, and full of rich Villa∣ges, * 1.7 in a Countrey called Misen, subiect to the Elector Duke of Saxony: and the Coun∣trey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect, onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine. The streets are faire, the market place large and stately, and such are the chiefe houses, built of free stone foure roofes high: there is a conuenient conduit of water in the Suburbs, lying towards Prage, the ditch is dry, the wals of stone threa∣ten ruine; neither may the Citizens fortifie the Towne, nor vse red waxe in their pub∣like seales, nor winde a Horne in their night watches, as other Cities doe: these and other priuiledges being taken from them in the yeere 1307. when they killed their Duke Ditzmanus in Saint Thomas Church. Out of this City they haue (as many Ci∣ties in Germany haue) a beautifull place to bury their dead, called Gods-aker, vulgarly Gotts-aker,) where the chiefe Citizens buy places of buriall, proper to their families round about the Cloisters, and the common sort are buried in the midst, not couered with any building. Here I found this Epitaph: the numerall Letters whereof shew the yeere when the party died.

FoeLIX qVI In DoMIno nIXVs ab orbe fVgIt.

And like Epitaphs are ordinarily found through Germany. This Citie hath an Vniuersity, and in the yeere 1480. the Students of Prage remoued hither to flie the Hussites warre; but at this day the Vniuersitie is much decayed, by reason that Wittte∣berg lieth neere, hauing better conueniency for the Schollers liuing. From hence I tooke my iourney in the afternoone to Witteberg, and came that night to Teben a Vil∣lage foure miles distant, through a Wood so large as wee could not passe it in two houres, beyond which the ground was barren till wee passed the Riuer Elue, which runneth by Witteberg, all the length of it from the East to the West, but is some∣what distant from the Towne.

The next day we passed foure miles to Witteberg, which hath his name of Wittekin∣dus, the first Christian Duke of Saxony, and is seated in a plaine sandy ground, hauing * 1.8 on the North Hils planted with Vines yeelding a sower grape plentifully, yet they make no wine thereof. One streete lies the whole length of the Towne, being all the beautie thereof, and in the midst of this street is the Cathedrall Church and a faire market place, in which the Senate house is built, and neere the West gate is the Dukes Church; It is prouerbially said, that a man shall meet nothing at Witteberg, but whores, students, and swine, to which purpose they haue these two Verses:

Ni Witeberga sues, ni plurima scorta teneret, Ni pubem Phoebi, quaeso quid esset ibi? Had Witeberg no swine, if no whores were, Nor Phoebus traine, I pray you what is there?

Whence may be gathered that the Citizens haue small trafficke, liuing only vpon

the Schollers, and that the streets must needs be filthy. In the study of Doctor Wi∣sinbechius this inscription is in Latine;

Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died.

See how much they attribute to Luther, for this is not the place where hee died, neither was there any bed, yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted out. Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere 1483, & certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield, where after supper the seuenteenth of February he fell into his vsu∣all sickenesse, namely the stopping of humors in the Orifice of his belly, and died thereupon at fiue of the clocke in the morning, the eighteenth of February, in the yeere 1546. the said Count and his Countesse and many other being present, and receiuing great comfort from his last exhortations: yet from his sudden death the ma∣litious Iesuits tooke occasion to slander him, as if he died drunken, that by asper∣sions on his life and death, they might slander the reformation of Religion, which he first began. These men (after their manner) being to coniure an vncleane spirit out of a man in Prage, gaue out that he was free from this spirit for the time that Lu∣ther died, and that when hee returned, they examined him where hee had beene that time, and the spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther. Phillip, Melancthon, borne in the yeere 1497. died 1560. and both these famous men were buried, and haue their Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg, which is said to be like that of Hierusalem, and in that both of them are round, I will not deny it, but I dare say they differ in this, that Hierusalem Church hath the Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about it, whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end of it. The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther which seeme fabulous, & among other things they shew an aspersion of inke, cast by the Diuell when he tempted Lu∣ther, vpon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge. Besides, they shew a house wherein Doc∣tor Faustus a famous coniurer dwelt. They say that this Doctor liued there about the yeere 1500. and had a tree all blasted and burnt in the adioyning Wood, where hee practised his Magick Art, and that hee died, or rather was fetched by the Diuell, in a Village neere the Towne. I did see the tree so burnt; but walking at leasure through all the Villages adioyning, I could neuer heare any memory of his end. Not farre from the City there is a mountaine called the Mount of Apollo, which then, as of old, abounded with medicinable herbes. In a Village neere the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour Charles the fifth encamped there. I liued at Witteberg the rest of this summer, where I paied a Gulden weekely for my diet and beere, which they account apart, and for my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare. I heare that since all things are dearer; the Schollers vsing to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet, and a Dollor for chamber and washing. Hence I tooke my iourney to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus the Elector. Three of vs hired a Coach all this iourney for a Dollor each day, with condition that we should pay for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man, which cost as much more. And this we paied because we had freedome to leaue the coach at our pleasure, though we returned with it to Leipzig, to which if we would haue tied our selues, we might haue had the coach for halfe a Dollor a day. The first day wee went sixe miles to Torge, through sandy fields yeelding corne, and we dined at Belgar a Village, where each man paied fiue grosh for his dinner, and by the way they shewed vs a Village called Itzan, where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation.

Torge is a faire City of Misen, of a round forme, falling each way from a moun∣taine, and seated on the West side of Elue. It hath a stately Castle belonging to the * 1.9 Elector Duke of Saxony, who is Lord of Leipzig, Witteberg, and all the Cities we shall passe in this iourney. This Castle is washed with the Riuer Elue, and was built by Iohn Fredricke Elector, in the yeere 1535. It hath a winding way or plaine staire, by which a horse may easily goe to the top of the Castle, the passage being so plaine as the ascent can scarcely be discerned. The Hall, Chambers and Galleries of this Ca∣stle, are very faire and beautifull, and adorned with artificiall pictures, among which one of a boy presenting flowers, is fairer then the rest. Also there is a picture on the

wall, of one Laurence Weydenberg a Sweitzer, made in the twentieth yeere of his age, in the yeere 1531, shewing that he was nine foot high. In the Church there is a Mo∣nument of Katherine a Nunne, which died 1552. and was wife vnto Luther. The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the way to Dresden, where the Elector Fredericke was taken prisone by Charles the fifth, in the Protestants warre. The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit, for the fishing whereof, the Citizens pay 500. gul∣dens yeerely to the Elector of Saxony, and they fish it once in three yeeres, and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens. The beare of Torge is much esteemed through all Misen, whereof they sell such quantity abroad, as ten water-mils besides wind-mils, scarcely serue the towne for this purpose.

From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach hired as aforesaid, and we di∣ned * 1.10 each man for fiue grosh in the village Starres, and wee passed through goodly cornehils, and faire woods of firre and birtch. The City Misen is round in forme, and almost all the houses are built on the falling sides of Mountaines, which compassing all the City, open towards the East, where Elue runneth by. Duke Fredericke surna∣med The wise, and Duke George, surnamed papisticall, are buried in the Cathedrall Church. Here I paid six grosh euery meale. The City is subiect to the Duke of Sax∣ony, hauing the same name with the whole Countrey in which it lieth. Hence wee went three miles to Dresden in a Coach hired as aforesaid, and passed through sandy and stony Hils, some fruitfull vallies of corne, and two Woods of firre, where∣of there bee many neere Dresden, whither being come, I paied sixe grosh for my dinner.

This City of Dresden is very faire and strongly fortified, in which the Elector of * 1.11 Saxony keepes his Court, hauing beene forty yeeres past onely a village. When the first stone of the wals was laid, there were hidden a siluer cup guilded, a Booke of the Lawes, another of the coynes, and three glasses filled with wine, the Ceremonies be∣ing performed with all kind of Musicke and solemnity. The like Ceremony was vsed when they laid the first stone of the stable. The City is of a round forme, seated in a Plaine, running betweene two Mountaines, but some what distant, and the houses are faire, built of free stone, foure or fiue roofes high, whereof the highest roofe, after the Italian fashion, is little raised in steepnesse, so that the tops of the houses appeare not ouer the walles, excepting the Electors Castle built betwixt the North and West side, and the Church Tower built betweene the West and East side. In this Tower the watchmen dwell, who in the day time giue notice by Flags hung out, what number of foot or horse are comming towards the Towne. To which Tower they ascend by two hundred seuenty staires, and in the top two Demiculuerins are planted. Wee entred on the East side through old Dresden, being walled about, and so passed the Elue, compassing the walles of new Dresden on the East side by a Bridge of stone hauing seuenteene arches, vnder which halfe the ground is not couered with water, except it be with a floud. Vpon the Bridge we passed three gates, and at the end entred the City by the fourth; where the garrison Souldiers write the names of those that come in, and lead them to the Innes, where the Hostes againe take their names. The City hath but two little Suburbs. The Citizens were then as busie as Bees in fortifying the City, which the Elector then made very strong. The ground riseth on all sides towards the Towne, and the new City hath foure Gates; Welsh-thore, Siegeld-thore, New-thore, and Salomons-thore: and is compassed with two walles, betweene which round about there is a garden, from which men may ascend or descend to it at each Gate. Ouer the outward wall there is a couered or close Gallery, priuate to the Elector, who therein may compasse the Towne vnseene. Hee hath vsed the best wits of Germany and Italy in this fortification, wherein he hath spared no cost. The walles are high and broad of earth, whose foundation is of stone, and they are on all sides furnished with great Artillery, yea in that time of peace the streets were shut with iron chaines, at eating times, and all night.

The Electors stable is by much the fairest that euer I saw, which I will briefly de∣scribe. In the first Court there is a Horse-bath, into which they may bring as much or

little water as they list, and it hath 22. pillars, in each whereof diuers Armes of the Duke are grauen, according to the diuers families whose Armes he giues. The same Court serues for a Tilting-yard, and all exercises of Horse-manship: and there is also the Horse-leaches shop, so well furnished as if it belonged to a rich Apothecary. The building of the stable is foure square; but the side towards the Dukes Pallace is all ta∣ken vp with two gates and a little Court yard; which takes vp halfe this side, and round about the same are little cuboords peculiar to the horsemen, in which they dispose all the furniture fit for riding. The other three sides of the quadrangle, contained some 136. choise and rare Horses, hauing onely two other gates leading into the Cities market place, opposite to those gates towards the Court. These horses are all of for∣raine Countries, for there is another stable for Dutch horses, and among these chiefe horses, one named Michael Schatz (that is Michaell the Treasure) was said to be of wonderfull swiftnesse: before each horses nose was a glasse window, with a curtaine of greene cloth to be drawne at pleasure; each horse was couered with a red mantle, the racke was of iron, the manger of copper: at the buttocke of each horse was a pillar of wood which had a brasen shield, where by the turning of a pipe he was watered; and in this piller was a cuboord to lay vp the horses combe and like necessaries, and aboue the backe of each horse hung his bridleand saddle, so as the horses might as it were in a moment be furnished. Aboue this stable is a gallery on one side, adorned with the statuaes of horses & their riders, with their complete Armours fifty in num∣ber, besides many Armours lying by the wals. On the other side is a gallery hauing forty like statuaes, & thirty six sledges which they vse in Misen, not only to iourney in time of snow, but also for festiuall pompes. For in those Cities, especially at Shroue∣tide, and when much snow falleth, they vse to sit vpon sledges drawne with a horse furnished with many bels, at the foote of which sledge they many times place their Mistresses, and if in running or sudden turning, the rider or his Mistresse slip, or take a fall, it is held a great disgrace to the rider. Some of these sledges are very sumptuous, as of vnpurified siluer as it comes from the Mines, others are fairely couered with vel∣vet and like stuffes. Aboue the forepart of the stable towards the market place, are the chambers wherein the Elector feasts with Ambassadors. In the window of the first chamber or stoue, being a bay window towards the street, is a round table of marble, with many inscriptions perswading temperance, such as are these,

Aut nulla Ebrietas, aut tanta sit vt tibi cur as: Demat.— Be not drunken in youth or age, Or no more then may cares asswage. Againe, Plures crapula quam ensis. Gluttony kils more then the sword.

Yet I dare say, that notwithstanding all these good precepts, few or none euer rose (or rather were not carried as vnable to goe) from that table. Twelue little marble chaires belong to this table, and the pauement of the roome is marble, and close by the table there is a Rocke curiously carued with images of fishes and creeping things. This Rocke putteth forth many sharpe pinacles of stone, vpon which the vessels of gold and siluer are set forth at the feasts, and when the drinking is at hottest, the statua of a horseman by worke of great Art, comes out of the Rocke, and presents each stranger with a huge boule of wine, which he must drinke off for his welcome, without expe∣cting that any should pledg him. In the next chamber belonging to this stoue, is a bed∣stead of marble and both haue hangings of gold lether. There is another chamber and another stoue like these, and aboue them in the vppermost loft, there be many little roomes, whereof one is furnished with speares, another with saddles (& among them I remember one which in the pummell borea gilded head, with eyes continually mo∣uing, & in the hinder part had a clocke) the rest are furnished with swords, shields, hel∣mets, and fethers. Among the swords, euery Prince hath his owne, which the succes∣sours vse not to weare, and there is one belonging to the Electorship, when he exerci∣seth

his office as Marshal of the Empire. There was another Sword, hauing in the hilt two little Pistols. Here I saw laid vp an Iron chaine, in which they said, that Duke Henry the Father of Manrice the first Elector of this Family, should haue beene han∣ged in the Low Countries, who escaping, brought the same with him, and laid it vp here for memory: After the Funerall of Christianus, returning from Friburg to this Towne, I found onely fifteene of those choice Horses in the stable, all the rest ha∣uing beene giuen to Princes comming to the Funerall.

The Dukes Pallace in Dresàen was built by Mauricius, part of the City wals and the gates were built by Augustus, who did also lay the foundation of this Stable. But Christianus the Elector perfected the wals of the City, with the close gallery ouer them, and built this famous stable; setting this inscription vpon the wals in Latine. Christianus Duke of Saxony, Heire to Augustus the Elector of happy memory, and imitator of his vertues, caused this Stable to be built, and the Yard adioyning to be fitted for Tilting and military exercises: the present age, &c.

The Armory at Dresden is no lesse worth the noting, wherein were Armes and all kind of munition for seuenty thousand men, but of late it had been somewhat emp∣tied by an expedition into France, vndertaken by the Duke at the solicitation of the Count of Turin, Ambassadour for Henry the fourth King of France.

The Duke was at great charge in keeping Garison Souldiers at Dresden, and Offi∣cers, as well for the stable as the Armory. In these parts and no where else in Germa∣ny, they vse boats of a hollow tree, driuen not by Oares, but by battledores, whereof I saw many vpon the Elue, as likewise water mils swimming vpon boates, and remo∣ued from place to place, the like whereof was since made at London by a Dutchman, but became vnprofitable by the ebbing and flowing of Thames. At Dresden I paid seuen grosh a meale.

Hence in our Coach hired, as aforesaid, we passed foure miles to Friburg, through * 1.12 fruitful Hils and Mountaines of corne, but few or no Woods: and here we paid each man fixe grosh a meale. This City is of a round forme, compassed of all sides with Mountaines, hauing many Vauts, or Caues vnder it; by which the Citizens enter and goe out of the City by night, to worke in the siluer Mines. Yet hath the City two walles, and two ditches, but altogether dry. It hath fiue gates, and foure Churches, among which Saint Peter's Church is the fairest. The Elector hath his Castle in the City: and in the Church (as I remember of Saint Peter) wherein the Dukes vse to be buried; Mauricius hath a very faire monument of blacke Marble, raised in three piles, whereof each is decked with diuets statuaes of white Marble and Alablaster; where∣of two Belong to Mauricius, the one in posture of praying, the other armed, and re∣ceining a deadly wound. Two Monuments were begun, but not then perfected, for Augustus and Christianus. The territory of Friburg abounds with siluer Mines; wher∣of some and fine hundred fadomes deepe, some seuen hundred, and some nine hun∣dred, and after each thirty fadomes, the earth is supported with great beames of tim∣ber, lest it should fall; and from each of these buildings, winding staires of wood are made, to descend to the bottome.

The Citizens liue of these Mines, and grow rich thereby, whereof the Elector hath his proper part, and vseth to buy the parts of the Citizens. The worke-men vse burning Lampes vnder the earth both day and night, and vse to worke as well by night as by day: and they report, that comming neere the purest veins of siluer, they are often troubled with euill spirits. These worke-men goe out to the Mines by night, through the Caues vnder the City, and being called backe from worke by the sound of a bell, they come in the same way. The water which the worke-men vse, springeth in a mountain an arrow shot from the Town, whence falling to a low∣er mountaine, it is conuaied by hollow trees to fall vpon the wheeles of the mils, so as a little quantity thereof driueth them. These Mils draw the water vp out of the Mines, for the depth of forty fadome, whence it runneth in pipes towards the City. Whe they try & purify the siluer, first with water they wash away the red earth, then they beat the mettall with a hand hammer, and thus broken, they cast it into the fire,

which they make in the open ayre, lest the workmen should be stifled with the fume of the brimstone. Then they melt the mettall six times, by a fire made of whole trees, in a little house adioyning. Then in another house they seuer the mettall from the earth with a siue. Then againe they beat the mettall with an hammer dri∣uen by a Mill; and thus beaten, they wash it vpon three clothes hanging slopewise, and the purest siluer stickes to the vppermost cloth. This done, they melt it againe six times, and the best of the drosse is lead and siluer, the rest copper; and this siluer and lead being againe melted, the lead falles from the siluer like dust. The fier wherein they try this siluer is so hot, as it consumeth the bricke Furnaces in three daies. The workemen besides their hier, vse to bee rewarded for expedition of the worke. The meanes by which they find siluer, are very strange, being by a rod, which vulgarly they call Chassel-wand, or, the Diuine Rod, which they carry in their hands, and when they goe ouer siluer, they say the Rod bends or breakes, if it be straightly held: and there were not aboue seuen men in this Citie, which had skill of this my∣stery. The waies are planted with trees to direct passengers, lest as they goe to the Citie, they should fall into the Mines: for as they report, it hath often happened that the Citizens themselues haue perished in this sort; and the like mischance happened lately to fiue workemen, though skilfull in the waies. These Mines of Friburg were first found in the yeere 1180, yeelding to this day rich veines of siluer. There bee other Mines of siluer neere these since that time discouered, namely at Schaneberg, found in the yeere 1470, at Anneberg. found 1510, in Ioachimus valley, found 1526. For this Elector of Saxony hath many Mines of siluer, which lest any should thinke to belong of right to the Emperour, it must bee obserued that the Princes Electors haue Regall power vnder the Emperour, granted by priuiledge in the Lawes of the golden Bulla, by which they haue right to all Mines found in their owne Terri∣tories.

After I had seene the Elector Christianus his funerall at Eriburg, (the ceremo∣nies wherof shall bee described in the proper place,) I returned to Dresden in a Coach hyred as aboue said, & so from Dresden to Misen; but from Misen I returned not to Torge, but tooke another way to Leipzig, being tenne miles, which we went in one day, foure miles to Owsen, three to Wortson, where wee dined, and thence three miles to Leipzig, all through plaine and fruitfull corne fields. I spent this winter at Leipzig, that I might there learne to speake the Dutch toung (the Grammer wherof I had read at Witteberg,) because the Misen speech was held the purest of all other parts in Germany. Heere each Student vseth to bay for his diet a Gulden weekly, besides beere, for which euery man paies according to his drinking; some lesse, some more, most beyond measure. For the Citizens haue no beere in their houses but one kind, which is very small, and buy the better kindes (as that of Torge, which the richer sort vsually drinke) from a publike house; where it is sold by small measures, to the profit of the Senate. Besides, the Schol∣lers pay seuerally for their bed and chamber. My selfe lodged with a rich Citizen, and for diet, bed, and cham∣ber, paied weekly a Doller and a halfe.

CHAP. II. Of my iourney from Leipzig to Prage (in Bohemia) to Nurnberg, Augspurg, Ulm, Lyndaw, Costnetz (in Germany) Scaphusen, Zurech, Baden, and Bazell (in Sweitzerland.)

BEing to take my iourney to Prage, in the end of the yeere 1591, (after the English account, who begin the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March,) I returned againe to Dresden; from whence I wrote this Letter concerning my iourney, to a friend lying at Leipzig.

Honest M. Know that after I parted from you at Torg, by good hap, and beside my expectation, I light vpon a Coach going to Dresden, with which good hap, while I was affected, and hasted to hire a place therein, I had forgot to pay for my Coach for the day before. But when we were ready to go, remembring my errour, and intreating my consorts to stay a while for mee, I ranne backe to the Inne, as speedily as the Parasite Curculio in Plautus; and finding not the Coachman there, I gaue the money to the seruant of the house before witnesses, and so returned to the Coach all sweating with hast. There I found that dunghill rascall the Coachman, hauing my gowne on his backe. I laid hold of the garment, as if I knew it, and hee held it as fast, as a pledge for his money. I being inraged that hee should vse me so, when I had dealt honestly with him, drew my sword, and making knowne that I had paid the money, bad him lay downe the gowne vpon his perill. I had almost drawne a rabble of Coachmen on my back, but they forbore me in this heat, for you know they are not apt to quarrell in the morning; but if I had thus pro∣uoked them in the afternoone, being warmed with drinke, sure they would haue run vpon me, though they had been naked. Will you know the companions of my iour∣ney? I was alone among a Coach full of women, and those of the Electors Dutchesse Chamber for sooth, which you would haue said to haue been of the blacke guard. It was a Comedy for me to heare their discourse; now declaiming against Caluenists, now brawling together, now mutually with teares bewailing their hard fortunes: and they fel into al these changes, while the winde blew from one and the same quar∣ter. Is anything lighter then a woman? and lest the flocke of geese should want matter, sometimes they charged me to be a Caluenist, sometimes a Iew; & I answered merrily, that if any of them were but a Consuls wife, I would satisfie them for my reli∣gion. At eight a clocke in the night, the horses being spent, my selfe wearied, and only their tongues vntired, wee came to a Village called Derwaldhan, where wee should lodge. We entered a kind of Barne, my selfe not without sighs. Lipsius should here haue had no cause to complaine of stinking beere, browne bread, and often shaking hands. No man returned salutation to vs: the women my companions, drew out victuals they had brought to eat, I being fasting to that houre, with great feare and trembling of heart, expected that at least they would giue me some raw bacon, or dri∣ed puddings. But they thought nothing lesse. At last I desired an egge or two for my supper. The seruant answered that the old woman was in bed, and that he knew not the mystery, whether any eggs were in the house or no. If the Comicall Poets Saturio had been here he would haue fallen into a sound. To be brief, the women took compassion on me, and I without blushing was content to eat of free cost, and made them know that I was no Iew, for I made no religion to eat what was before mee.

The next morning before the day-starre arose, I was walking in a meadow, what doe you blesse your selfe with a crosse? Sure I am no lesse sleepy then I was, but he is soone apparelled that hath a dogs bed in straw: yet this straw was cleane, which is no small fauour, and when I gaue the seruant a Misen groshe for his paines, he was asto∣nished, as if he had neuer seene a whole groshe before, so as he forgot to thanke me, onely shewing it to the standers by, as if I had deserued another burthen of fresh straw. The Women, Virgins, Men and Maids, seruants, all of vs lay in one roome, and my selfe was lodged furthest from the stoue, which they did not for any fauour, though contrary to their opinion I was glad of it, delighting more in sweet aire, then the smoke of a dunghill. My companions laughed at me for babling dutch in my sleep: surely reason cōmanding me waking, had not power ouer me in sleep, to hinder me from reuoluing the pleasant passages of the day past. On Saterday the same day I came to Dresden, frō whence fiue passengers were newly gon for Prage in a Coach, but after three daies expectation I haue found new consorts, & to morrow being Wednes∣day, and the eight of March, I begin my iourney to Bohemia. While I dispaired of con∣sorts, I was determined to goe in a boat'vpon the Elue, and had now bought cleane straw, in which I meant to triumph alone, when by good hap, turning from the riuer to the Inne, I light vpon this commodity of a Coach, which hath freed me from the annoyance of the water and Marriners. Imbrace in my name our common friend G. B. and of my louing hosts family, let not a whelpe goe vnsaluted. Farewell honest M. and returne me loue for loue: from Dresden the seuenth of March, 1591.

My selfe and foure consorts hired a Coach for 14. dollers from Dresden to Prage. The first day we went three miles to Gottleben a Village, where we paid fiue Bohemian groshe, that is sixe white groshe each man for his dinner. Halfe the way was on the West side of the Riuer Elue, in a fertile plaine, then we passed the Elue, and trauelled through mountaines, yet fertile, and a baggy wood. After dinner we went two miles, to a Village, where we lodged, through stony mountaines without any wood, and in the mid way there was a woodden pillar, which diuided the territory of the Saxon Elector from the kingdome of Bohemis.

The second day we went two miles throgh stony Mountains, bearing not one tree, to Ansig a little City, where we paid for our breakefast foure Bohemian groshes. The same day we passed three miles in a straight between rocks, lying vpon the Elue, & two short miles throgh fruitful corn fields, to Wedin lying vpō the riuer Aegra, which runs a little below into the Elue, but was here at this time so deep, by a floud or melting of snow, as our Coach in comming to the bridge of Wedin by the bank side, tooke water. The third day we passed a miles to a village called Welber or Welberg, through fruitfull hils of corn without any wood, & there each man paid 5 Bohemian grosh for his dinner.

In the afternoone wee went three miles, for the most part through fruitfull hils of come, the rest through Rockes and Mountaines planted with Vines, and so came to Prage, through which the Riuer Molda runneth, but is not nauigable. On the West side of Molda is the Emperours Castle, seated on a most high Mountaine, in the fall * 1.13 whereof is the Suburbe called Kleinseit, or little side. From this Suburbe to goe in∣to the City, a long stone bridge is to be passed ouer Molda, which runnes from the South to the North, and diuides the suburbe from the City, to which as you goe, on the left side is a little City of the Iewes, compassed with wals, and before your eies towards the East, is the City called new Prage, both which Cities are compassed a∣bout with a third, called old Prage. So as Prage consists of three Cities, all compassed with wals, yet is nothing lesse then strong, and except the stinch of the streetes driue backe the Turkes, or they meet them in open field, there is small hope in the fortifica∣tions thereof. The streets are filthy, there be diuers large market places, the building of some houses is of free stone, but the most part are of timber and clay, and are built with little beauty or Art, the walles being all of whole trees as they come out of the wood, the which with the barke are laid so rudely, as they may on both sides be seen. Molda in the winter vseth to be so frozen, as it beareth carts, and the ice thereof being cut in great peeces, is laid vp in cellers for the Emperour and Princes to mingle with

their wine in summer, which me thinkes can neither be sauory, nor healthfull, since nei∣ther the heat of the clime, nor the strength of the Bohemian wines (being small and sharpe) require any such cooling. One thing they boast to be proper to that king∣dome, that the Elue, Aegra, Molda, and all other Riuers watering Bohemia, haue their spring heads in the same.

In publike Innes they demand some six Bohemian grosh for a meale, yet doe they not commonly giue meales at an ordinary rate, as they doe through all Germany; but what meate you require, that they dresse, and the seruant buying all things out of doores (after the manner of Poland) maketh a reckoning of the expences. My selfe had my diet with a Citizen very conueniently for a doller and a halfe weekely. I did here eat English Oysters pickeld, and a young Bohemian comming in by chance, and ta∣sting them, but not knowing the price, desired the Merchant to giue him a dish at his charge, which contained some twenty Oysters, and finding them very sauoury, hee called for fiue dishes one after another, for which the Merchant demanded and had of him fiue dollers, the dearnesse no lesse displeasing his minde, then the meate had pleased his taste.

As you passe ouer Molda from the Suburbe Kleinseit, into the City; there is a hand of stone as it were cut off, vpon the gate of the City; signifying to strangers, that whosoeuer drawes a sword there, or vpon the bridge; looseth his hand; and the like hand there is to the same purpose, on the Senate house in the towne. The Emperour hath two inclosures walled about, which they call Gardaines, one of which is called Stella, because the trees are planted in the figure of starres, and a little faire house there∣in is likewise built, with six corners in forme of a starre. And in this place he kept 12-Cammels, an Indian Oxe, yellow, all ouer rugged, and hairy vpon the throate, like a Lyon; and an Indian Calfe, and two Leopards, which were said to be tame, if such wild beasts may be tamed. They were of a yellow colour spotted with blacke, the head partly like a Lyon, partly like a Cat, the tayle like a Cat, the body like a Grey∣hound, and when the hunts-man went abroad, at call they leaped vp behind him, sit∣ting vpon the horse like a dog on the hinder parts, being so swift in running, as they would easily kill a Hart. I remember that a gentleman of Hungary walking in the streetes with me, and obseruing a picture on a wall of a German protecting an Hunga∣rian from a Turke, with this inscription: Not for thy sake, but my owne: tooke this oc∣casion to complaine much of the Emperour, and relate many things wherein his pro∣digality and other errours had ouerthrowne Hungary, and had done nothing lesse then ease their afflicted fortunes. In the Church Emaus, this inscription is grauen;

¶ The tenour of King Alexander the Great, his &c.

Wee Alexander the Great of King Phillip the founder of the Grecian Empire, Conquerour of the Persians, Meades, &c And of the whole World, from the East to West, from North to South, sonne of great Iupiter, by &c. so called. To you the noble stocke of the Sclauonians, and to your language, because you haue beene to me helpers, true in faith, and vali∣ant in warre, I confirme all this tract from the North to the South parts of Italy, from me and my successours to you and your posterity. If any other Nation be found there, let them be your slaues. Dated in our City of Alexandria, newly founded by vs vpon the great Riuer of Nilus: the twelfth of the Goddesse Minerua: witnesses are Aethra, and the II. Princes, whom we appoint successours to vs dying without heire.

Also there were these verses, shewing by numerall letters the antiquity of Prage Vniuersity, from the yeere 867. though the Colledges there about ruined, scarce shew any shadow of this Vniuersity.

HaeC sChoLm qVo SLV I Das unno est erecta sub auras, Ostenait rVbrae LItera picta notae. The numerall great letters shew the yeere, This vniuersall Schoole was founded here.

In the Church of the Emperours Castle, these things are to be seene. A faire Chap∣pell

named after the Emperours sister, married to the French King, and crowned Queene of the French Another Chappell belonging to the Barons, called Popelij (the greatest family of the Kingdome, next to the Baron of Rosenberg) which Chappell is proper to them for buriall, and is dedicated to S^t Andrew the Apostle. In the Empe∣rours Church is a Monument of Rodolphus the second, then liuing Emperour, built of white marble, and compassed with grates of iron. In the same place lie buried Charles the fourth in the yeere 1378. Wenceslaus in the yeere 1419. Ladislaus in the yeere 1459. Ferdinand the fourth, in the yeere 1564. Maximillian the second, in the yeere 1577. (all being Arch-dukes of Austria, and Emperours) and George Pogiebrachius a Bohemian, and King of Bohemia. To all these is one Monument erected, and that of small beauty: In the same Church is the Monument of a Bishop, who being the Queenes Confes∣sour, was cast into Molda because he would not reueale her confession to her husband Wenceslaus. They doe so reuerence the Monument of this Bishop (since made a Saint by the Pope) as they thinke he shall die with shame, that passeth by it without reue∣rence. In Old Prage towards the South, and vpon the East side of Molda, there is an old Pallace, where they shew a trap-doore, by which the Queene was wont to slide downe into a Bath, where shee vsed to satisfie her vnlawfull lust. In the same place is grauen the leape of a horse, no lesse wonderfull then Byards fabulous leape. The House of Kelley a famous English Alcumist, was of old a Sanctuary, and built for an order of Friers, vpon the gate whereof these verses are written,

Has aedes veterum fauor & clementia Regum, Omnibus exemptas Legibus esse dedit: Audeat ergò iugum nemo his seruile minari, Quos hic cum Vrabsky curat alit{que} Deus. This house through old Kings Clemency Free from all Lawes no threats respects; Dare not fright them with slauery, Whom vnder God Vrabsky protects.

In the Senate house the City Armes are painted, being a Castle with three Towers ore, and two Lions argent Langed gules, are the supporters, and these Ver∣ses are written vpon the Armes;

Qui dedit haec veteri turrita insignia Pragae, Omina venturae sortis amica dedit. Mole sua vt celsae transcendunt moenia Turres, Sic famum superas inclita Praga tuam. Who so these towred Armes to old Prage gaue, Gaue lucky signes of future happinesse; For as the Towers ore top the walles most braue, So Prage thou doest surpasse thy fame no lesse.

Not farre from Prage they say, that the Crowne of the Kingdome is laid vp, in Karlsteine Castle. At Prage in Bethlem Church, they shew a Pulpit in which Iohn Hus vsed to preach at the first reformation of Religion. I liued at Prage some two mo∣neths, and being to depart from thence, I would haue gone to Vienna (the famous Fort against the Turkes) but my desire to see Nurnberg and Augspurg so preuailed, as I left that iourney, which by chance happened better then I imagined, for being called backe into the Low Countries (as heereafter I shall relate), I passed thence through Poland into Italy, because France was shut vp by the ciuill warres, and I euer shunned to goe twice one way, and so had the opportunitie (more fit then the for∣mer) to see Vienna. Now for their sakes who may passe from Prage to Vienna, giue mee leaue to remember, that in this way their is a Village called Chassel, some nine miles from Prage, where the famous Captaine of the Bohemians, called Ziska, lies bu∣ried,

who did lead the Hussites valiantly, and being ready to die, wished them to make a Drumme of his skinne, ominating that the sound thereof would bee so terrible to the enemies, as they would runne away, (such confidence had be in Armes, as being dead he thought to terrifie his enemies.)

In the beginning of the yeere, 1592. I tooke my iourney from Prage to Nurn∣berg, * 1.14 being sixe daies iourney. The first day after dinner, we went foure miles, partly through rocky Mountaines, partly through a fruitfull corne plaine, and lodged at Berawn, where a loafe of bread, worth two third parts of a Creitzer, was as big as a threepenny loafe in England; by reason of the abundance of corne in that Country. And heere each man paid for his supper fourteene Creitzers. This Citie belongs to the family of the Poples. The second day wee went foure miles to Zudermont, all through Mountaines and Groues, and two great Woods, yet reasonably fruitfull in Corne, and by the way we saw the City Bodly, and the City Spil, the fairest of that Kingdome next to Prage, both belonging to the Emperour, and two Castles; belonging to the Barons Popeles: and heere each man dined for sixteene Creitzers. After dinner we went two miles to Pilsen, halfe the way through Woods, where is a little City Ruchtsan, and halfe through Hils and Plaines fruitfull in Corne, (almost the whole Countrey of Bohemta being hilly, and rich ground for Pasture and Corne) and here we supped each man for twenty three Creitzers. The third day wee went three miles to Kladen, through pleasant Hils of Groues, pasture and corne, where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers. After dinner we went three miles to Frawenberg, through high Mountaines and great Woods, hauing no great store of corne; in all which territory, the Cities and Villages acknowledge the Emperour for their su∣preme Lord, as he is King of Bohemia. For this Kingdome is not diuided (as others be) into Prouinces and Countries, but into Noble-mens Territories. Here we paied each man eight Creitzers for our supper, and twelue for wine.

The fourth day wee went a mile and a halfe to a little riuer, diuiding Bohemia, or Boemerland from Germany, through rocky Mountaines, and many Woods of tall Fir trees, fit to make Masts for Ships. Then wee entred a Countrey belonging to that Elector Palatine of the Rheine, which Elector is called vulgarly the Phaltz-graue, and we came within halfe a mile to Weithawsan, where each man dined for eighteene Creit∣zers. After dinner we went two miles in the Phaltzgraues Countrey, through woody Mountaines, and one mile in the Landgraue of Leytenberg his Countrey, through fruitfull corne fields, and lodged at Shenhutton, where each man paied six Creitzers for his supper, and thirteene for wine. For in these parts they drinke no beere (as be∣fore) but wine, and that at a lower price) then other where, whether it bee natiue or forraine: yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat, all my consorts being Dutch-men. The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey, foure miles to Amberg: through fruitfull Hils of corne, and some few Woods, and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue) being seated in the vpper Palatinate. After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country, (who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg) two miles to Hous-coate, a Village, where each man paid six Batzen for his supper. The sixt day we went three miles, passing by Erspruck, a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers, and many villages belonging to diuets Lords, and a fort in the mid way called Schwang, belonging to seuenty two Lords, and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping; for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres. The first and greater part of the way, was through fruitfull Hils of corne, the rest through sandy pastures, and a Wood of a miles length. Wee dined at a poore Vil∣lage, each man for six Batzen. After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg, through sandy corne fields, and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens, whether they vse to come out of the City, sometimes to recreate themselues. The Wood which we passed in the morning, lay on our left hand towards the South; as wee en∣tred the Citie on the east side, and not farre from the City, turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South.

The City of Nurnberg, seated in a barren sandy ground, yet is very rich by the * 1.15

Citizens industry. For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey, (either be∣cause hauing enough for food, they are giuen to idlenesse, or because abundance makes them prodigall,) so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle, by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes, and cunning Art, draw the riches of all Countries to them. The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie, but is not Nauigable, nor beareth any the least boats. This Riuer runnes from the East (where wee entred the Towne) towards the gate Lauff-thore, and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South, where diuiding into two beds, it entreth the City, and comming out againe at the West, washeth the Citie walles. On the East side, the Margraues of Brandeburg, besieged the City, at the command of Charles the fifth; therefore on this, and the South side, besides a dry ditch, and two stone walles compassing the whole City, di∣uers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall. On all sides as you come vp to the City, the earth riseth, and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe. Vpon the walles there be many Towers, distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces, and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile. Among the said Towers, three are stronger then the rest, and furnished with Artillery. The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore. The second is on the South side, vnder the gate Fraw-thore, (and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore.) The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore, (and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore.) There is a Castle called Burk, which by Nero the Emperour, was of his name called Noricum Castrum. It is certaine, that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great; and the City being of it selfe not ancient, is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name. On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore, so called of him that caused it to be built; where is a pleasant walke, thicke shadowed with trees, where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure.

The City is absolute of it selfe, being one of the free Cities of the Empire, and mee thinks the chief, or at least second to Augsburg: surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City, but it must be preferred for the building, whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high: I speake of the whole City of Augsburg, for one street thereof is most beautifull, and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes, of which kind Nurnberg hath none. The Tower which I said was of old called Nori∣cum Castrum, hangs ouer the City, which being seated in a plaine, hath no mounts neere it, and is of a round forme. The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe, vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled, who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth: as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge. The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower, as it were vnder the shield of Aiax; and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons. The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne, and is opened to no man with∣out consent of the Senate, (which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers.) And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery, with great store of all Munitions. The City hath also a Granary, which is so large, as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein. It hath teri Chur∣ches, whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching; and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke, who first conuerted the City to Christian Reli∣gion. Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine, so called of the beauty and magnificence, and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes. Neere the Church called Frawenkirk, is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer, and compassed with an iron grate. It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch, or a candle and lanthorne. In the Innes they giue no beere at the table, but diuers kinds of wine, and a large diet, if not delicate: for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale, and besides for his chamber or lodging (which he may haue priuate to himselfe) three creitzers by the day. In the Almes-houses, out of gifts by the last testament of those that die, they maintaine great numbers of poore people, and in one of them twelue old men apart, and in another twelue old men, and as many old weomen.

Whilst I liued at Prage, and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast, early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face, as I lay in bed, I dreamed that a shadow passing by, told me that my father was dead, at which awaking all in a sweat, and affected with this dreame, I rose and wrote the day and houre, and all circumstan∣ces thereof in a paper booke, which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel, and sent it from Prage to Stode, thence to be conuaied into England. And now being at Nurnberg, a Merchant of a noble family, well acquainted with me and my friends, arriued there, who told me that my Father died some two moneths past, I list not write any lies, but that which I write is as true as strange. When I returned into Eng∣land some foure yeeres after, I would not open the barrell I sent from Prage, nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had written this dreame, till I had called my sisters and some friends to be witnesses, where my selfe and they were astonished to see my writ∣ten dreame answere the very day of my Fathers death.

I may lawfully sweare, that which my kinsmen haue heard witnessed by my bro∣ther Henry whilst he liued, that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of my Mothers death, where my brother Henry lying with me, early in the morning I drea∣med that my mother passed by with a sad countenance, and told me that shee could not come to my commencement; I being within fiue moneths to proceed Master of Arts, and shee hauing promised at that time to come to Cambridge: And when I re∣lated this dreame to my brother, both of vs awaking together in a sweat, he protested to me that he had dreamed the very same, and when wee had not the least knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse, neither in our youthfull affections were any whit affected with the strangenesse of this dreame, yet the next Carrier brought vs word of our mothers death.

Being (as I haue said) certified of my Fathers death at Nurnberg, and thinking not fit to goe on my iourney into Italy, and yet being loath to returne into England, be∣fore I had finished my purposed voyage, I tooke the middle counsell, to returne into the Low Countries, that in those neere places I might dispose of my small patrimony (for in England gentlemen giue their younger sonnes lesse, then in forraine parts they giue to their bastards) and so might leaue the same in the hands of some trusty friend. Yet lest I should loose the opportunity of seeing Augsburg, meaning to returne some other way into Italy, I resolued to goe from hence to Augsburg, and then to crosse ouer the West parts of Germany; and so to passe along the Riuer Rhein into the Low Countries.

To Augsburg (being two dayes iourney and a halfe) I hired of the City Carrier (in whose company I went) an Horse for two Dollors, as I remember. The Merchants of Nurnberg and Augsburg; giue pensions to eight of these Carriers, daily passing be∣tweene those Cities, besides the profit they make of letters, and other things they car∣ry by horse. The first day after breake-fast, we rode one mile in a thicke wood, and another mile through sandy corne fields, somewhat wooddy, both in the territory of the Nurnbergers, and foure miles more in the territory of the Margraue of Anspach, to Blinfield, where each man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen. The se∣cond day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a wood of Iuniper, full of blacke berries and barberies, at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge, and after through fruitfull hils and valleies of corne, all the territory, excepting the free City, belonging to the Marshall of the Emperour (not of the Empire): when we came al∣most to our iourneies end, the Carrier had a guide giuen him, according to custome, for theeues vsing to lie by that way. Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-graue of New∣burg, being of the family of the Phaltz-graues of Rhein, and there we paid each man for his dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers, which make eight batzen and a halfe, and there we tasted Iuniper wine, which I neuer remember to haue tasted else where. After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through fruitfull hils of corne, and a small wood of Okes (though all the woods of vpper Germany be commonly of firre, bearing greene leaues all winter, as those of inferiour Germany towards Denmarke, be all of Okes.) By the way we passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgraue of Rhein by the

Emperour, and a free City of the Empire, called Donaward, of the two Riuers Danow & Werd, meeting there, and there we passed by bridge the Danow, running by the City. Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles and a halfe more, through fruitfull fields of corne & pastures, the Country belonging to the Fugares (Citizens of Augsburg) & to diuers other Lords. The Castle of this place belongs to the said Fugares, who are rich & famous for their treasure; & though they haue princely reuenues, & the title of barons, yet stil are merchants: here each man paid for his supper & hors-meat 8. batzen & a half.

The third day in the morning we rode three miles to Augsburg, through a fruitfull * 1.16 plaine of corne; without the wals whereof on the East and North, and some part of the South sides, the fields are drowned with waters, and men passe to the Citie by cau∣sies, for on these sides the ground lieth low: but on the West side is all the beauty of the City, where the houses are seated vpon a hill, and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet, called the Berle, and likewise the Senate house in the street Weingasse, so called of the Wine cellars. There also be many Pallaces stately built, of the Fugares and other Citizens: all the building is of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high; but in other parts it is more poorely built of timber and clay. On this West part of the City is the Gate called Kuknerthore, and the ditches are dry, as they be round about the City; the wals are of stone, which being on all other sides narrow, are on this side broad: for vpon the wals of this side there be little houses built for fiue hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in, with their wiues and families: which place is vulgarly called Die schwang. Here the Souldiers keep watch each three daies by turne, & each of them haue for pay six guldens by the moneth, and there is a market place, whether the Souldiers vpon a∣ny difference vse to challenge each other. On this West side is another gate vulgarly called Der Einlasse, by which passengers are receiued into the City by night, when the gates are shut; and this their entrance is so curiously admitted, as many strangers desi∣rous to see the fashion, suffer themselues of purpose to be locked out at night, and wil∣lingly giue a reward to the souldiers letting them in: when they receiue in those that are shut out, diuers gates are opened; and no man being seene to open them, are presently shut on the back of them that come in: then they being thus shut as it were in a prison, a box is put downe to them in which they cast a reward; which done, the Watch-men out of win dowes behold each man that is to enter, and so being safe from all treason, let them passe by the last gate into the City. On the South side there be two gates, Roat∣thore and Smitbogenthore; on the East side the gate Iacoberthore, and a little gate called Holeblatten-thorelin. On the East side the Riuer Werda & the Brooke Lecca running to∣wards the North in three armes, diuide the City, and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where. The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme; and in the Suburbs on this side, the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists. On the North side the wals are higher built, and the ditches are deepe filled with water, and there be foure other gates: this side of the City lying lowest, the fields without are (as I said) all drowned with water. Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen: I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen. This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship, vulgarly Statlich Kunst, and the fountaine of the wa∣ter is ten miles from the City. There be ten very faire Churches. In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters, that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there. Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden, whilst his Dis∣ciples slept; and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen, (so they call the Wise Men of the East) and these carried about by a circle of iron, wor∣ship Christ when the Clocke strikes. In the Senate House (where the imperiall Parlia∣ments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held) I found nothing to an∣swere the magnificence of this City; onely on the gates this is written: Wise men build vpon the Rocke, Fooles vpon the Sand: (for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill.) In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer, and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees. Augs∣burg (called of the Vandals, for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzer∣land,) is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus, and being of old a City of Rhetia, now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia, vulgarly Schwaben, & is said

said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet, sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded. Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres, and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire: and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle, the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes. This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila, King of the Hunnes, and when he was dead, was rebuilt againe. It is a free Citie of the Empire, (which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt,) and as other free Cities, it is gouerned by Senators. There bee many Almes houses for the poore, and one, wherein foure hundreth are nourished, by rents of land and houses, giuen to that house of old by good men. The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes, in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures, and Hils full of game for hunting, and it may bee gathered how populous it is, by that a German Author writes, that in a yeere when no plague raigned, 1705 were baptized, and 1227 buried.

Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg, to goe from Auspurge, to the West parts of Germany, and so into the Low-countries; yet I wil remember the Rea∣der, that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice, described in my voy∣age from Stode to Venice, and thence to Hierusalem. From Augspurg I rode to Vlme, and thence to Lindawe, and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day, paying for the daies in which my horse returned, and hyring footmen to bring them backe, and bearing their charges. The first day I rode foure miles thorow the terri∣tory of the Fugars, and the Bishop of Tilleng, and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria, of the house of Inspruch, in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods, of Iuniper, Ashes, Oakes, and Beaches, to Burg; where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat, eight Batzen.

In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme, through a fruitfull plaine of corne. Entring the City, we passed by a Bridge, the Riuer Danow, which (though running in * 1.17 a plaine) yet hath a most violent course, so as boats carried downe the streame, vse to be sold at the place wherethey land, it being very difficult to bring them backe again; yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe, by the force of horses. My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke, but they vse a greater number, accor∣ding to occasion, some thirty or more, as they report; and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke, is called Wage-halse, that is, Necke venturer, because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water, till the other horses draw them out again. This Riuer hath foure great water fals, vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle, eighteene miles from Vienna, vvhich is hardly to be passed, except it be in a floud. And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats, by reason of the violent streame, and especi∣ally because the Marriners are many times drunken, or negligent. They vse for a charme, to sprinkle their drawing horses with water, and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw. This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich, being fertill, may supply the vpper being barren, with wine and corne. Munster wri∣teth of two fals of this Riuer, one below Lintz, where the waters make a terrible noyse, beating vpon the rocky bed, the other at Gryn, vvhere the water makes a dan∣gerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth. Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia, as Augspurge is, and hath his name of Elme trees. Charles the Great built a Monaste∣ry in this Village, which in time grew to a City, and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third, bought their freedome of the Monkes. The building thereof is of wood and clay. The order of Knights called in Latine, Teutonicus, was in old time of great power, and hath yet a house in this Citie. It hath one stately Church, in the Yard whereof, the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen. It hath a faire Senate house, and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions, as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany. The writing Tables, made in this City, are famous for their goodnesse, and are thence carried into forraine parts. The diet of the Innes of this City (seated in a most fertill soyle) is very plentifull, both in meats and banquets, where each man paied for his dinner, seuen Batzen. In this Country they drinke nothing but wine, (as they doe in all vpper Germany,) but it is sharpe, and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen. When wee were at dinner, a Tumbler

came in, and being admitted to shew his cunning, hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine, which seemed strange to the beholders.

After dinner, we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow, which wee pas∣sed, and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine, which is very large, and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof. And so wee came to Bal∣tring, subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery, and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner, and three for horse-meat. Next morning, after a miles riding, we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut, through woody Mountaines, and corne vallies, which were so boggey, as many times wee had almost stuck fast. The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke, of the family of Inspruck; and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat. After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country, to Rauenspurg, a free Citie, seated betweene Moun∣taines, whereof one hangeth ouer it, and the Riuer Ach runneth by it, in a narrow bed; so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly, doe many times ouerflow, to the great damage of the Countrey; and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City. In these parts bee many Almes houses, for those that are infected with Leprosie, who may not come neere the Passengers, but doe beg of them a farre off, with the sound of a woodden clapper. Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat, twelue Batzen and a halfe. The first day of May, we rode three miles, one through a Wood, the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures, and Hils planted with Vines, to the City Lindaw. By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort, and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge, which doth often ouerflow the plaine, doing great hurt; and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count, for each man. We were now come out of Sueuia, and had rode two miles in Algoia, and on the left hand towards the South, we disco∣uered the mouth of the Alpes, which in this place is called Spliego.

Lindaw is a free City of the Empire, which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166, and it is almost an I and, seated in the lake called Acronius (vulgarly Bodensea) being * 1.18 ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side, where it hath onely one gate, called Burg-thore, by which wee entred. On this side, the fields are very pleasant, and planted with Vines, and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier, so old, as they say, it was erected by the Heathen, before any Christians were. Hence the City lies in length towards the South West: partly on the West, and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea, that is, vpper sea, close by the houses of the Citizens, where they descend by staires to take water. Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines, which were then couered with snow, and at the foot of the highest Mountaines, there is a Tower, which they report to be built by Hannibal, neere which is the place, famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal. On this side the City, they shew a stone, whence they say, the Saint called Aurelia, passed the lake (woe to them that beleeue) at one step. The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Moun∣taines, whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed, and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not. Both these runne into the Lake, and the Rheine, till it come out of the Lake againe, loseth the name. There is but one Church in the City, besides a ruined Monastery. The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat, and mingle it with wine; not out of the Lake, but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life, and twenty Senators gouerne the City. Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria, is a bath of great vertue, and a Monastery built by Otho the second, with great priuiledges, vpon a vow hee made, being in great danger, when he passed the Lake, and there murtherers haue a sanctua∣ry. There is much salt made in the City, and carried thence to other parts. Heere I paied each meale six Batzen. They drinke altogether wine, whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers, the new for nine, (of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts. By ill fortune I was here forced to ex∣hibite a Petition to the Consuls, both in the Dutch and Latine tongues, the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition. The forme whereof in English was

this, after the Dutch fashion, euer tedious in their stiles or titles.

HOnourable, prouident, good, wise, Lords and Consuls; I humbly desire you to re∣spect my cause, as of a stranger far from his friends, and bereaued of his money by deceit. Thus my case standeth. Being at Nurnberg, and purposing thence to goe to Bazell, there to study, I dealt with a Merchant, that hee would exchange my money thi∣ther, retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither. There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw, who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse. So as I finding him acknow∣ledged by the Carriers of this City (then being there) and by many Nurnbergers, for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne, was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens, to be paid mee heere in French Crownes, and wee comming in company together to this Towne, when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne, I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens, which I had kept for the expence of my iourney, vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes. So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers, (for twenty seuen of which French Crownes, and thirty six Creitzers, I tooke his bill at Nurnberg, but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word.) Heere I expected his payment eight dayes, and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer, he is stoln out of the Towne, and his brothers giue me no hope of payment: being not so noble, as to ponder the case right∣ly, or to haue any due fecling of my state. Being in this case, not able without money to goe on my iourney, or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere; all my hope is in your iust helpe, which failing me, I know not what course to take. Therefore I de∣sire earnestly of your worthinesse, to assist mee, and giue expedition to my cause, that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse.

My debtor, while he liued in the publike Inne with mee, vsed mee with all curte∣sie; but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead, and so dispairing of means to pay me, he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake, being a sanc∣tuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts. He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch, will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man, whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices, but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune, & it afflicted me beyond measure, that I should bee forced to spend the time (dearer to mee then gold) in following the Law at Lindaw, which I hoped to imploy in my stu∣dies at Bazell. Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe, I hyred a horse, and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer, desiring him to exclude my deb∣tor from the priuiledge of the Monastery. But this Dutch Gentleman, finding mee to speake Latine readily, tooke mee for some Schoole-master, and despised both mee and my cause: so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad, hauing obtained no fauor. But a better starre shined there on mee, for the Consuls that day had determined in Court, that my debtors horses should bee sought out, and deliuered to mee; and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me, as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee, though I pressed them to receiue it. Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away, paid me my mony, and I glad∣ly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel. This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates, (which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion, hauing found by many testimonies, I cannot sufficiently commend) and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers, I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge.

Vpon the Lake Acrontiis, vulgarly Boden-sea, that is vpper sea, I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz, and paied for my passage three Batzen. Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea, vulgarly Vnden-sea: this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke * 1.19 lengthwise, and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch, Arch-Duke of Austria, whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City, which is famous by a Councell held there, whither Iohn Hus was called, with the Emperours safe conduct, in the yeere 1414, yet was there condemned of Heresie, and burned. On the West side of the Citie; within the walles, in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster, is the

Tower wherein he was imprisoned; and without the walles on the left hand, as you goeout, is a faire meadow, and therein a stone vpon the high-way, to which he was bound, being burnt the same yeere 1414, in the Month of Iuly. Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September, the yeere following, both their ashes being cast into the Lake, lest the Bohemians should carry them away. The Senate∣house in which this Councell was held, is of no beauty. When the Emperour Charles the fifth, besieged this Citie, it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia, and brother to Charles, who made the Citizens peace for them. Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale, and for wine betweene meales, eight creitzers the measure.

Hence I went by boat, two miles to Styga, and paied for my passage two Batzen. We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City; where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake, and taking his name therein lost, doth runne in all narrow bed; and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe, wee entred the lower Lake, called Vnden-sea. Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow, and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow, of the riches, the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands, as the Monkes being sent to Rome, vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions. This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson, so as any such beast dieth presently in it: and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke, for which (as they say) the Venetians haue offered much money. VVriters report that of old, a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder, to looke into a huge vessell of wine, and being ouercome with the vapour, fell into the same, with a great bunch of keyes in his hand, and that shortly after this wine was so famous, as Princes and Nobles, and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same; the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh, till the vessell being empty, the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein; the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order: yet the Dutch in my company reported, that this happened in a Monastery not farre off, called Sal∣manschwell. By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augs∣burg. On the East-side, out of the walles of Styga, lye woody fields, on the West-side the Iland Horue; and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne. In this City, the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace, who is Lord of the two Ilands, Meinow, and Reichnow, and hath very large possessions in these parts, mingled with the territories of other Lords. And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland.

Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen, and paied for my passage two * 1.20 Batzen. The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short, and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake, and when it comes (or rather violently breakes) out of it, then resumes it againe. This City is one of the confederate Can∣tons of Sweitzerland. Not farre from this City, on the South side in the riuer Rheine, is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward, passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome. And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vn∣lade here, and to carry their goods by carts to the City, and from the City to imbarke them againe, which yeeldeth great profit to the City, by taxations imposed on the goods, which must necessarily be landed there. On both sides the riuer, as we came to this City, are pleasant hils planted with vines, & faire pastures with sweet groues. The City is round in forme, and is washed with the Rheine on the South side; and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne, is a pleasant greene, where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow, where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree, giuing so large a shade, as vpon the top it hath a kinde of cham∣ber, boarded on the floore, with windowes on the sides, and a cocke, which be∣ing turned, water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes, by which it is conueyed thi∣ther for washing of glasses and other vses: and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together, there being sixe tables for that purpose. On the same South side is a Monastery, with walles and gates like a little City. It hath the name of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 that is a sheepe, or Schiff, that is a ship, and Hausse, that is a house, as of a fold for 〈◊〉〈◊〉, or

roade for shippes. Here I paid for each meale six batzen. For the better vnderstan∣ding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech, I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel.

To the Right Worshipfull Master Doctor Iohn Vlmer.

IN those few houres I staid at Schafhusen, you haue made me your Seruant for euer. I remember the houres of our conuersation, which for the sweetnes thereof seemed minutes to me: I remember the good offices you did towards me a stranger, with gentlenes, if not proper to your selfe, yet proper to your Dutch Nation. Now as soone as I had pitched my tents at Bazell, (for me thinkes I am one of the Nomades, euery day changing my dwelling,) I thought fit to giue you account of my iourney, whereof I am sure you desire to know the successe. I will euer be ruled in doubtfull cases by the counsell of so wise and so good a friend as your selfe: but you shall neuer more perswade me to take a iourney on foot, which I find vnprofitable for my health & purse. The other day after dinner by your aduice, I took my iourney on foot, & with more sighes then paces, came in foure houres with much paine to the little City Egli∣saw, and comming to the Inne, they offered me meat, but I did nothing but so crie out for my bed, as you would haue said I was the eldest sonne of sloth. To be briefe, they being slow to satisfie my desire, I flung my selfe on the fether bed without sheetes, and so at ease supped on the old fashion with the cloth spread on the bed: you gaue me a pleasant companion to guide me the way, who made it seeme shorter with his good discourse, and was very diligent to serue my occasions: next morning early by twilight, we began our iourney, hauing the gates opened for a little reward. You may thinke that I was fresh after my nights rest for a new iourney, but I rose ear∣ly onely to be out of my paine. By nine of the clocke in the morning we came to the faire City Zurech, which seemed fairer to me at the end of my tedious walke: present∣ly I ran into my chamber, and with like importunity as before, obtained my bed to be made: the Mercury you gaue to guide me, brought me meat plentifully, and there we dined together; then because he was to returne to Schafhusen that night, I gaue him a Gulden for his paines, besides paying his charges, and fifteene Creitzers of free gift. Each of vs went to our taske, he (as I thought) to goe, I to sleepe. Since I haue begun, I will tell you Historically all circumstances, so you promise me not to reproue him, but rather to salute and thanke him in my name, which if you refuse, I coniure you on all loue to read no further. After foure houres behold this honest man, with a gar∣land of roses on his head, a glasse and pot in his hands, and well armed with drinke, en∣tered my chamber; I being halfe asleepe wiped my eies, as if I had seene a vision, till he drinking to me, and importuning me to pledge him, made mee know it was no appa∣rition: we drunke a whole houre together, then in good earnest he went away, and did nothing (to my knowledge) more wisely, then that being drunken, he left his recko∣ning of forty eight Creitzers to be paid by me, who was sober. Neither Ceres nor Bac∣chia could for twenty houres draw me from bed, but the next morning I deliuered your betters to Master Doctor S. who vsed me very curteously, and presented mee with a Booke he had lately printed. So this Comedy is ended, onely I will adde the Epilogue. Here at Bazell I can get for no money the Booke of Semlerus de Repub. Hel∣uetica, which you commended vnto me: at last I found it in a friends study, who estee∣med it as the apple of his eye, yet I so preuailed with him, as he let me haue it, vpon my faithfull promise; that because I meant to blot the same with notes, I should procure him a new Booke; wherein if you doe not disingage mee by sending the same vnto me, I shall forfet the small credit of a stranger. Farewell good Sir, and I pray you let vs not suffer this sparke of our loue to goe out, but rather with often writing, let vs set all the coale on fire. Againe farewell: from Bazell the 24. day of May 1902.

From Schafhusen I tooke my iourney on foot (as is aboue written) and went halfe a mile in the territory of that City, and a mile and a halfe in the territory of the Count of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Sweitzer, the lands of Zurech lying on the South side from vs; and so wee

passed through Mountaines yeelding corne, and planted with vines, and through woods, pastures, and a large valley of corne, and in foure houres space (for the miles of Sweitzerland are so long, as they reckon the iourneies of horse or foot by the houres, and not by the miles) came to Eglisaw, and entering the same, passed the Riuer Rheine by a Bridge, where I paide two creitzers for tribute, and there I supped for fiue Batzen.

The next morning I went two miles on foot in six houres space to Zurech, through * 1.21 a long wood, and hils of corne (which they say are often blasted with haile) and through wooddy Mountaines, and hils of inclosed pastures, with store of Vines plan∣ted neere the City, which is one of the Cantons of Sweitzerland, hauing on the West side the Lake called Zurechsea, and the Brooke Limachus, hauing his head eight miles further on the same side, ruuneth into this lake, and after comming out, diuideth the City into two parts, called the greater and the lesse City, hauing three bridges for passage, the greater where of the Merchants vse for their meetings. The foresaid Lake is three miles long, and hath on each side pleasant hils planted with Vines. The fore∣said Brooke neere the City beareth onely small boates, and is all taken vp with water mils, but aboue towards the Alpes is deeper, and below neere Baden runneth into the Rheine. The streetes of Zurech are narrow, and the Houses builded of timber and clay, and the City it selfe is seated vpon and betweene hils, which on the East side of the Brooke grow higher from it. On the North-west side is a pleasant Mountaine, and a faire meadow for shooting with gunnes, and other exercises, wherein is a faire Lynden or teyle tree, yeelding large and sweet shadow, where the Citizens meete to recreate themselues, and to feast together. The Armes of the City are a Man and Woman, called Falix & Regula: without the City on the South, is the foresaid Lake, and be∣yond it the Alpes couered with snow. On the West side is a plaine, and the Moun∣taines farre off, but on the North and East sides the Mountaines lie neere. The Citi∣zens haue a custome that when they goe forth against the enemy, they place the Mi∣nisters or Pastors in the front, or where they may partake the danger, and there is a place two miles from the City towards Lucerna, where Zwinglius a famous Preacher and reformer of Religion was killed in the field. Here I paid each meale six batzen.

I rode three miles to Baden in three houres, and so hired my Horse as besides the price of six or seuen batzen the day, I paid as much for the daies in which he returned, * 1.22 and also paid the hire and charges of one to bring him backe. Most part of our way was in the territory of Zurech, through hils of corne and vines, and a plaine of inclosed pastures. Entering the City we passed the brooke Limachus by a bridge: the Su∣burbs are built vpon the ascent of a Mountaine, and the City on the top of it, where there is a Castle vpon a Rocke, of old very strong, but now ruinated: on the North side descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand, or vpon the East side, within a musket shot lie the Baths, which are famous for medicine, and are in num∣ber thirty, seated on each side the Brooke, which diuideth them into Bethora the great and the little. In the great, diuers Bathes are contained vnder one roofe of a faire house, and without the gate are two common to the poore. These waters are so strong of brimstone, as the very smoake warmeth them that come neere, and the waters burne those that touch them. Of these one is called the Marques Bath, and is so hot, as it will scald off the haire of a Hogge: many hauing no disease but that of loue, how soe∣uer they faine sickenesse of body, come hither for remedy, and many times find it. Weomen come hither as richly attired as if they came to a marriage: for Men, Weo∣men, Monkes, and Nunnes, sit all together in the same water, parted with boords, but so as they may mutually speake and touch, and it is a rule here to shun all sadnes, nei∣ther is any iealousie admitted for a naked touch. The waters are so cleere as a penny may be seene in the bottome, and because melancholy must be auoided, they recreate themselues with many sports, while they sit in the water; namely at cards, and with ca∣sting vp and catching little stones, to which purpose they haue a little table swimming vpon the water, vpon which sometimes they doe likewise eate. These Bathes are ve∣ry good for Weomen that are barren. They are also good for a cold braine, and a sto∣macke

charged with rhume; but are hurtfull for hot and dry complexions, and in that respect they are held better for Weomen then Men. The Innes were wont to pay tri∣bute to the three Cantons, of Baden, Brucke, and Bazell; but now Baden alone makes great profit of them, by the great concourse of sickely persons, and the Parliaments of the Cantons commonly held there. I paid for my diet six Batzen a meale.

From hence I hired a Horse at the same rate as before, and passing through woody Mountaines, came in three houres riding to the City Brucke. By the way I passed the Brooke Russe, which runneth from Lucerna into these parts, and the boate was drawne by a cable running vpon a wheele, by reason of the waters swift course: where I paide for my passage sixe creitzers: and when I came neere Bruck, I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge, paying one creitzer for tribute; and here I paid fiue batzen a meale. From hence hiring a horse as before, I rode in two houres space to Hornsea, through steepe Mountaines, and a wood of Oake: by the way lies Kingsfeld, that is Kingly field, a Mo∣nastery so called, because Widowe Queenes, and Kings, forsaking their Scepters, and inferiour Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the solitary profession of Religion. In the same Cloyster of old, liued the Friars of Saint Francis order, in the building on the right hand as you come in, and the Nunnes of Saint Clara on the left hand, and both came to the same Chappell, the Friars to the body of the Church, and the Nunnes to close galleries aboue, looking out and hearing through grates. The Emperour Albertus being killed by his Nephew in the yeere 1380. at Santbacke three miles distant, this Monastery was built for his memory, though his bones were buri∣ed at Spire. The reuenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly forty thousand Guldens, which are now appropriated to the common treasure of the Sweitzer Can∣tons. Leopold Duke of Austria lies here buried. Ferdinand of Insprucke, one of the Arch∣dukes of Austria, is Lord of Hornesea; all the rest of the territories from Schafhusen to this place, belonging to the Cantons of Sweitzerland: and here I paid sixe batzen a meale. Hence I hired a horse as before, and rode in fiue houres to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne, hauing on all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight. Here againe I passed the Rheine, and paid two raps for my horse and my selfe; foot-men paying but one. The Rheine passeth by with a violent course, and washeth the Towne on the East side. Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale.

Hence hiring a Horse as before, I rode in two houres space to Bazell, through a faire plaine of corne and pasture, lying vpon the Rheine, hauing on all sides woody * 1.23 Mountaines in sight, and neere the City were most pleasant fields planted with vines, to the which fields the territory of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the Rheine. I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine, and so passed by a bridge of wood into the greater Bazell, seated vpon pleasant hils on the West side of Rheine. This City of old was one of the imperiall free Cities; but now is ioined to the Cantons of Sweitzerland, and was built in the yeere 3 & 2: hauing the name of a Basiliske, slaine by a Knight couered with cristall, or of the word Pasell, which in Dutch signifies a beaten path, or of the greeke word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 as a kingly City. The lesse Bazell was of old built by an Arch-duke of Austria, in preiudice of the greater, and after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens, was incorporated there∣vnto: The greater hath many caues vnder the hils, and suffered a great earth-quake in the yeere 1346, at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Church fell into the Rheine, and another Earth-quake in the yeere 1356. wherein 180. persons were killed, all the people flying out of the Towne. Eugenius the Pope held a Councell in this Ci∣ty, the yeere 1431. The Bridge of wood ioyning the little and great City, diuided by the Rheine, is broad enough for two carts to passe at once; and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone: but towards great Bazell where the Rheine tunneth most swiftly, eight Arches are built of wood, that they may be more easily repaired, and vpon any warre from Germany more readily broken downe. This City is of the forme of an half Moone, (I meane the great City, reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe) and being seated upon diuers hils on the West side of the Rheine, imbraceth betweene the two hornes the lesser City, seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine. On the West side of the

greater, the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged the City, and on this side some∣thing towards the North, within the walles, is a most pleasant greene for walking, cal∣led peter platz. In this place is the Armory of the City, and the tribunal of Iustice, and some faire houses of priuate men, and a most pleasant shade of trees, among which is an Oake, whose boughes are in circuit one hundred forty walking paces, and from the root are more then twenty such paces in length forward. And they report that the Emperor Manimilian the second supped vnder this Oake, and gaue 2000. Guldens to keepe and trimic. On the East side of great Bazel, the Rheine runneth by it, from the South to the North, and the yard of the Cathedrall Church lieth ouer the riuer, and hath a Lynden tree, which giueth very pleasant shade, hauing seats vnder it, and along the riuer. The course of the Rheine is very swift, but not so violent as that of the Da∣now; yet the water-men of Bazel (as those that dwel vpon the Danow) sell their boats at Sirasburg, which they weekely carrie thither, and cannot bring backe against the streame of the Rheine, and so they returne home on foot, (alwaies remembred that this riuer is at the broadest betweene Bazel and Strasburg.) Pope Pius the second, foun∣ded an Vniuersine at Bazel, in the yeere 1459, and gaue it all the priuiledges of Bo∣logala in Italy. In the publike Innes, men pay six Batzen a meale; but the Students haue their diet with Doctors and Citizens for some eight Dollers a month. My selfe dieted with the Ouerseer of the Coledge, and paied two Guldens a weeke; for strangers may hire chambers in the Coledge, and the Ouerseer willingly admits them to diet with him. In the Cathedrall Church, this is written vpon the Sepulcher of Hotoman, a famous Ciuill Lawyer:

Francisie Hotamant	Of Francis Hotoman
I. C.	Conns. at Law.
Mortalis 〈◊〉〈◊〉	The mortall parts
Tantisper assernandas	So long to be kept
Dum	Till
Christo inbente,	Christ bidding
Immortales exurgant	They rise immortall
Amici.	His friends
Sub hoc Saxo	Vnder this stone
Deposuere.	haue laid.
Loco Honoris ergo	The place for honours sake,
Ab AEdis Cur atoribus.	By the gouernours of the house
Liberal: concesso.	Being freely granted.
Vixit An: 63. M. 5.	He liued 63. yeeres fiue M.
D. 20. Ob: Prid:	20, daies: he died the day before
Id: Febru. Ano.	The Ides of Febr. in the yeere
MILCXC.	MILCXC.

Gallia progennit, sernat Basilea sepultum, Interitus expers nomen, vib{que} viget. He borne in France, lies buried here, His lasting Name liues euery where.

In the same place lies Oecolampadius buried, (to whom Luther opposed himselfe; when in the first reformation of Religion he violently brake downe the Images,) and he hath this inscription in Latine:

M. Iohn Oecolampadius by profession a Diuine, most skilfull in three languages: first Author of the reformed Religion in this City, and the true Bishop of this Church: excellent in sanctity of Doctrine and life, is laid vnder this short stone. In the yeere of war Lord, M. D. XLII.

In the same place lies buried Erasmus Roterodamus: with this inscription in Latines To Desiderius Erasmus, Roterodamus, a most great man carry way, whose im∣comparable learning in all kindes of Arts, ioyned with like wisedome, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 come shall admire and celebrate, Boniface Ameribachius, Ierome, Frobe∣nius, Nichol: Bishop, heire and Extertitort of his last Will and Testament: to

their Patron of happy memory, which by his writings he hath got, and so long as the world stands shall retaine: for the reposing of his mortall body, haue layed this stone. He died the fourth of the Ides of Iuly, being now seuenty yeeres old, in the yeere of our Lord, MDXXXVI.

These two Verses are written vpon the Tombe of Lodouicus Pontanus:

Hic iacet arte Plato, Cato, vita, Tullius ore, Vermes corpus alit, spiritus astra petit. Here lies Plato, Cato, Tully, For his Art, life, and eloquence, Wormes doe feede vpon his body, His soule to heauen is mounted hence.

There be also the Monuments of Henricus Glarianus, and of Bishop Hatto, whom the Emperour Charles the Great, sent Ambassadour to Irene Empresse of the East. In this City a stone is shewed, called the hot stone, vulgarly Heisteine, vpon which the Consuls, and diuers others were beheaded, who had conspired to betray the Citie, if the clocke striking false had not preuented, and deceiued both them and the enemies, lying in ambush without the City, & expecting a signe to be giuen them at the houre appointed. And for this cause (or as others say, to hasten the Councell held in the Senate house) the clocke to this day strikes one, when it should strike twelue. Neere the staires of the Senate house is an old Statua on foot, armed, but without a sword, bearing a Scepter, clad with a loose gowne, with a birde sitting on the Helmet, and hath this inscription;

Hono & virtuti L. Munatij L. F. L. N. L.Pron Planci Cos Imper:& Ter VII viri Epulonum Qui triumph ex Raetis Edem Saturni F. ex Manub Agros diuisit in Italia Beneuenti. In Galliam Colonias Ded Lugdunum at{que} Rauracum.

Ciuitas Basiliensis Ex bellicosiss gente Alemannorum In Rauracorum fines Transducta Simulac••rum hoc ex Senatus Auct Dicandum statuendum{que} Curauit. Anno salutis Christiane MDXXC.

Of Lucius Munatius the sonne of Lucius, grand-child of Lucius, great Grand-child of Lucius surnamed Plancus; Being Consul, General, and thrice One of the seuen Presidents of the holy Banquets Who triumphed of the Rhaetians, Built Saturnus Temple with the spoyles, Diuided the Land in Italy at Beneuento, Deduced Colonies into Gaul, To Lyons, and about Bazel.

The City of Bazel deduced Of the most warlike Nation Of the Alemans; Into the Territories of the Rauraci (or Basilians,) By authority of the Senate, Procured This Statua to be consecrated and heere set. In the yeere of Christ, MDLXXX

In the house where the Doctors, and other Graduates take their degrees, are the bones of an Anatomy, (for the Magistrates vse to grant the bodies of some men exe∣cuted to serue this vse,) and it hath this inscription:

Nostro perempti scelere, aliena viuimus manu, Et facti vasa honoris, qui fuimus ignominiae. Kild for our wickednesse, we liue by others heere, And vessels are of honour, as of shame we were.

CHAP. III. Of my iourney from Bazel to Strasburg, to Heidelberg, to Frankfort, to Cassiles, to Brunswicke, to Luneburg, to Hamburg, to Stode, to Breme, to Olden∣burg, and to Emden, (the last City vpon the confines of the Empire.)

I Went by boat to Strasburg, fourteene miles, and in sixe hours, vpon the swift Rheine we passed six miles to Brisake; a City subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch, Arch-Duke of Au∣stria: but of the villages oft intermixed, some are subiect to the Margraue of Baden, and some to diuers Bishops. All the Territory on the VVest side of Rheine, almost to Stras∣burg gates, is subiect to the said Arch-Duke, or the Bishop of Bazel, or the Duke of Wirtenberg. The boates com∣ming downe to Brisake and Neoberg, pay tribute, and send forth two Marriners, taking from thence two other in their stead. At Brisake, each man payes two Rapps for passing the bridge, which is shut vp with an iron chaine, and kept by watch-men, lest any boats should passe without touching there. I said before, that the boats and barkes comming downe, are sold at the end of the way, be∣cause they cannot be brought vp against the streame. Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine, and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes, yet this City hath a fountaine, where water is sold, and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast.

VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg, the same day in eight houres, be∣ing helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine, which being oft diuided by the way, makes many little Ilands. The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine, is more * 1.24 then a Musket shot from the City, on the East side therof. The bridge is of wood, and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces, and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart, it lying open on both sides, and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse, which lye loose; so as one end being pressed with any weight, the other is lifted vp, with danger to fall into the wa∣ter. It is like they build no stronger bridge, either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe, or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it: in which case it were farre greater charge to re∣build it with stone, then with wood. The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City, the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell. The brookes of Bress and Elb, passe through many streets of the City, and fill all the large ditches thereof with water. The City is very well fortified, hauing high walles of earth, the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone, and the sides with trees planted on the same. On the VVest side towards France, are the gates Weissen-thore, and Rheine-thore. On the East side toward the Rheine, is the gate Croneberg-thore, at which, though it be out of the way, for the iealousie of neighbour-hood, the French must enter, and at no other. On the East side is the Butchers gate, called, Metsiger-thore. On the same side is the Cathedrall Church. The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking. The buildings and Churches are faire and high, of free stone; most of the streets are narrow, but those diuided by water are broader. I paied six Batzen a meale, and for wine extraor∣dinary three Batzen the measure. Many things in this City are remarkable. The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull, and numbred among the seuen

miracles of the world, being begun in the yeere 1277, and scarce finished in twen∣tie eight yeeres. In the building of one gate thereof, they say, three Kings treasure was spent; in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen. The Church is co∣uered with lead, which is rare in Germany, where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse, growing in the Countrey. The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued.

The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous, being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius, in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground; shewing the motion of the heauens, starres and planets; namely, of the heauen car∣ried about by the first mouer, in twenty foure houres, of Saturne by his proper moti∣on carried about in thirty yeeeres, of Iupiter in twelue, of Mars in two, of the Sunne, Mercury and Venus in one yeere, of the Moone in one month. In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand, shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone, from the yeere 1573, to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst, is diuided into three parts. In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana, shew the course of the yeere, and the day thereof, being carried about in one yeere. The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord, and of the world, the Equinoctiall dayes, the houres of each day, the minutes of each houre; Easter day, and all other feasts, and the Dominicall Letter. The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Ger∣many, and particularly of Strasburg, and the names of the Inuentor, and of all the worke-men. In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe, shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day; and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets, vp∣on a round piece of iron lying flat, so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day, the rest being hid within the frame, till they come out by course at their day; as the Sun vpon Sunday, and so for all the weeke. And there is a terrestriall globe, and the quarter, and halfe houre, and the minuts are shewed. There is also the skull of a dead man, and two statuaes of two boyes, whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken, the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke. Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring, sum∣mer, Autumne, and winter, and many obseruations of the Moone. In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes, which strike the quarters of the houre, the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike; but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand, for three quarters, but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe, and that of death strikes the houre, with a bone in the hand, and then the chimes sound. On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd, and beateth his wings. Besides, this clocke is decked with many rare pictures, and being on the inside of the Church, carrieth an∣other frame to the outside of the wall, wherein the houres of the Sunne, the courses of the Moone, the length of the day, and such like things are set out with great Art.

Besides in the City there is a faire house, in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise, vse to feast their inuited friends. Neere the gate Rheinethore, is the Armory, vulgarly Zeighauss, which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions. They haue a Theater for Comedies, and a Tower to lay vp their treasure, called pen∣ny Tower, vulgarly Phennigthurne. They say this City is called Argentina in latine, of the word Argentum, because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here, and Strassburg in Dutch, of the word strass (that is way) and Burg (that is a City) as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces. I had almost omitted one remarke∣able thing, namely the faire House of the Cannons, called Bruderhoff, that is the Court of the Brethren.

I hired a coach for a Dollor my person, from Strassburg to Heidelberg, being sixteene miles. The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou, through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper. The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk, through a sandy and barren plaine; the Margraue of Turloch, vnkle to the Margraue of Baden is Lord of this Village. By the

way thither, we passed a Fort of the Margraues of Baden, where tribute is paid for all Merchandises brought out of Sweitzerland and France, and these frequent tributes are gathered by the Dutch Princes, vpon pretext that they free the way from theeues: to which purpose when the Fayres of Franckfort draw neere, they send out certaine Rey∣ters, that is Horsemen, vulgarly called Geleyte, which conduct the Merchants and their goods out of the Frontiers. The said Fort included the high way with Rampiers, lest any should passe without paying tribute: besides, by the way we might see the City of Baden, towards the South, seated vpon a Mountaine. After dinner we went three miles to the Village Graben, through a sandy ground, but somewhat lesse barren. The Margraue of Turloch is Lord of this Village.

The third day in the morning wee went fiue miles to Heidelberg, through sandy fields, but fruitfull in corne, all lying in a plaine, as the rest of the way from Strassburg hither, and neere Heidelberg we passed a great wood of Oakes, full of great hea ds of * 1.25 red Deare, which lay still by the way, and would not stirre for our cries, or feare of our Coach wheeles, but seemed to know their priuiledge, all hunting being forbidden vp∣pon high penalties. Heidelberg is compassed with high Mountaines, on the South, East, and North sides; but towards the West, beyond the City and a long Suburbe, (being the sole Suburb in the Towne) the Mountaines lie open. This Suburbe is longer then the City, and they both lie in great length from the East to the West, and they both consist almost of one streete, and are built in the plaine, though compassed with Mountains. On the South-east side there is a faire and pleasant market place, and not farre thence a very high Mountaine called Konigstull, that is, Kingly seat, vpon the middle ascent whereof, is the Castle, in which the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine holds his Court, and vpon the top of this Mountaine are the ruines of an old Tower, blow∣en vp with gun-powder. From this Mountaine on the South side runne caues vnder the Earth, to the Westerne part of the Mountaine of Goates, vpon which Mountaine is a Tower called Trotz-keyser, as if it were built in despight of Caesar, and it is worth the seeing, for the antiquity and building, hauing no gate, but being entered by the caue vnder the earth, and being built with lime tempered, not with water, but wine, incredibly durable, at the time when the Emperour making warre against the Phaltz∣graue, besieged this City. In the valley vnder this Mountaine of Goates, towards the City, is a pleasant walk, of the sweetnes called the Phylosophicall way. In the ditch par∣ting the City and Suburbe, is a place for the exercise of shooting with the Musket and Crosse-bow: On the North side of the City the shallow and vnnauigable Riuer Nec∣car, runneth in a plaine by the City betweene it and the Mountaine from the East to the West, and in the same course hauing run more then a mile, fals into the Rheine, and though it be shallow, yet sometimes it ouerflowes the Bridge of the City, as it did in the yeere 1565. passing into the Towne. On the North side you passe a bridge built of wood vpon arches of stone, to a pleasant walke vpon the banke of the Riuer, be∣tweene the Mountaine and the water: and from thence you goe vp to the holy Moun∣taine, vulgarly Heiligberg: and some say this City had his name of that Mountaine; but others say it hath the name of the Dutch word Edelberg, that is Noble Mountaine, others of a Colony of Romans, being Heathen, will haue it at first called Heidenberg, that is, the Mountaine of the Heathen. Vpou this Mountaine be the ruines of a Church of great antiquity, first dedicated to Mercury, and since made a Monastery, and neere the same is a ruined Cloyster of Nunnes (as commonly their nests were not farre di∣stant) and there is a passage vnder the Earth from one Cloyster to another. This is a most high Mountaine, and hath a thicke wood. The City of Heydelberg, by reason it is compassed with Mountaines, hath a very vnhealthfull aire, which maketh Funerals very frequent therein; but the water is held very healthfull. In the Innes they aske se∣uen batzen the meale, but the Students haue their diet in Citizens or Professors hou∣ses for two guldens, or one doller weekely: and the fame of the Professors drew many Students at this time to this Vniuersity. There is (to my remembrance) but one Church vsed for prayer aud preaching, and there is a monument with this inscripti∣on in Latine;

¶ Viglius Suicherius laid this to the memory of Rodulphus Agricola, borne in Friestand: he died in the yeere 1485, ihe 28 of October; he liued 42 yeeres and two moneths.

There is another Epitaph to this Rodulphus Agricola, made in verse by Hermolaus Bar barus Patriarke of Aquilegia.

Inuida clauserunt hee mar more fata Rodulphum, Agricotam, Frisij spem{que} decusque soli, Scilicet hoc vno meruit Germania laudes, Qutequid habet Latium, Graecia quicquid habet. Enuious Fates vnder this stone haue closde The Frisons ioy Rodulph Agricola, By whom all praise on Germans is impofde. That Italy or Greece had to this day.

While I liued here the rest of this summer, I made a journey of pleasure to see the Cities lying vpon the West side of the Rheine, and hiring a Horse after the wonted price at Heydelberg, I rode two miles and a halfe to the Rheines side, and then halfe a mile further to the City of Spire, where the imperiall chamber is held, in which Court * 1.26 the chiefe differences of the Empire are iudged; and the Electors themselues, or any ab∣solute Princes vnder the Empire, may bee called thither to triall of law. The City is built in a plaine, on the West side of Rheine, and hath more antiquity then beauty, or magnificence. Here I paid eight batzen each meale.

From hence I rode one mile to the City of Wormz, famous for many imperiall Par∣liaments held there of old: and by the way we passed Frankendale, a little City new∣ly and very fairely built, which place Casimire the Elector gaue vnto the Flemmings of late, who then had built many faire bricke houses there, and then compassed it with a wall; and Casimire taking vpon him the tutorship of his Nephew, against the will of the Lutherans, who reiected him as a Caluinfst, tooke some of these Flemmings to guard the Castle of Heidelberg. The building of Wormz shewes great antiquity, and * 1.27 wanteth not magnificence, where I paid feuen Batzen a meale. This territory on the West side of the Rheine is very fruitfull, and yeeldeth the best Rhenish Wines, so called of the Rheine by which they grow. From hence againe I passed the Rheine, and retur∣ned to Heydelberg.

Then I tooke my iourney to Franckfort Faire. The first day I passed foure miles to Bentzon, hauing hils on my right hand toward the East, planted with Vines, and fields set with roots; and vpon my left hand towards the West, a faire and fruitfull plaine: and here I paid seuen Batzen for my supper. The second day in the morning I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgraue of Hessen, to Arhelygen, through wood∣dy mountaines, planted with some Vines, and a plaine for one mile sandy, but the rest good pasture. We passed by Dormstat, where the said Landgraue holds his Court, and there each man paid sixe Fenning tribute. At Arheligen I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner. In the afternoone I passed some three miles to Franckfort, through a sandy plaine, and a wood of Oakes and Beeches, and by the way they shewed vs a strange leape of a Stagge, which being chased, did leape ouer a cart (if you may beleeue them) loaded with hey.

Franckfort is a free City of the Empire, famous for the Electors meeting there, to choose the Emperour, and for two yeerely Faires, as also for many Parliaments of the * 1.28 Empire held there, and it is called Franckfort vpon the Maene, to distinguish it from another City of the same name, built vpon the Brooke Odera, and named thereof. For the Riuer Maene running from the East to the West, diuideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons House, vulgarly Sachsen-hausse, and betweene them is a bridge of stone vpon foure narrow Arches. Both the Cities are gouerned by the same Senate and Law, and haue the fame name, either of Francus rebuilding it, or of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French. The City is compassed strongly with a double wall; and vpon the East side is the gate Heilegthore, where is the Iewes street, who are permiteed to dwell in this famous Mart-towne, and sucke the blood of Christians by

extortion. There is another gate called Freydigthore: On the North side of the City is the gate Brickenport, and a large place for an Horse Faire. On the West side is the gate of strangers, vulgarly Welsh-thore, so called because the French enter that way: it is very strong; and without the gate there is a very pleasant walke vpon the banke of Maene, among Vineyards and Meadowes, with sweet Groues. On the South side the Maene runneth by, diuiding (as I said) the new City from the old. In the new or lesse City called the Saxons-house, is a house of old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights, which by old priuiledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts and man∣slaiers, so they be not wilful and malicious murtherers; but they enioy this priuiledge onely for foureteene daies, so as when the time is neere out, or vpon any opportunity during the time, they vse to steale out, and returning after an houre, begin a new to rec∣kon againe the foureteene daies. A little before my comming thither, a certaine bank∣rupt of Colen entered the same for a debt of twenty thousand Guldens. On this side some ground without the wals belongs to the City, but on other sides it hath almost no Land without the wals. The City is of a round forme, seated in a large plaine, the streetes are narrow, and the houses built of timber and clay, the foundations of some being of stone. In the Innes they aske seuen or eight batzen a meale, but Merchants and many strangers vse to hire a chamber, and buy their meat of the Cookes.

From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a Coach for fifty Dollers, and besides were to pay for the coach-mans diet, for here first the coach-man conditioned to be free from paying his diet, vulgarly Maulfrey; that is free for the mouth, whereas in other parts our coach-men paid for themselues. Alwaies vnderstand that at the times of the faires, Coaches are set dearer then any time els. The first day after break∣fast, wee went three miles to Freideburge, through corne fields set with cabages and rootes, and by the way we passed a Village belonging to the Count of Hanaw. Freide∣burge is a free City of the Empire, and the buildings are of timber and clay: here each man paid seuen batzen for his supper and for his part of the coach-mans supper. The second day in the morning, we went three miles to Geysen, through fruitfull hils of corne. Phillip Landgraue of Hessen left three sonnes, William of Cassiles, whom Maurice his sonne succeeded, and was now liuing, and Lodwicke of Marpurg, and George of Dormstat. This territory belonged to the Landgraue Lodwicke, (for all the brothers in Germany haue the same stile of honour) and he was also at that time Lord of this City Geysell, which is fortified with wals of earth, and deepe ditches, but the building is base of timber and clay, and for the most of meere dirt. These verses were written vpon the gate of the City.

Captus erat Princeps non marte sed Arte Philippus, Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus. Nominis hoc patrij Lodouicus amore refecit, Anno bis septem lustra sequente none; Principe dignus honos, patrias surcire ruinas, A quibus Hassiacos Cbriste tuere polos. Prince Phillip captiu'de not by warre, but Art, This worke of strength was then demolished; In Countries loue Prince Lodwicke for his part Rebuilt it, seuenty nine yeeres finished, Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand, From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land.

Here I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner, and my part for the Coach-man.

In the afternoone we went three miles through high stony mountaines and woods of oakes, to Kirnham, belonging to the Landgraue Lodwick, whose Court at Mar∣purg lies a mile from thence. All of vs at supper drunke sixe measures of wine, besides beere, and from henceforth wee paid seuerally for meat and drinke, and at this time each of vs paid ten Weissenfenning for both together. The third day we passed three miles to Drest, through high mountaines with woods of Oake, and many fruitfull val∣leies of corne, and each man paid with his portion for the Coach-man foure Weissen∣fenning for meat, and as much for wine. This territory belongs to Landgraue Maurice

of Cassiles. After dinner we passed three miles to Fester, through high mountaines full of oake woods, and entered the City, seated vpon a mountaine by a bridge of stone, vpon which side great store of water fals from the mountaines, the houses were of tim∣ber and clay, each one for the most part hauing a dunghill at the doore, more like a poore Village, then a City: but such are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen, the hou∣ses of Villages being of meere dirt, and thatched. Here each man paid for his meat and old wine; and his part for the Coach-man an Orts Doller, or fourth part of a Doller.

The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles, a City where the Landgraue Mau∣rice * 1.29 holds his Court, all our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne. The City is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches, but the houses are basely built like the rest in Hessen. Phellip his grandfather built the castle, and William his father the wals. For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller.

In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines, to Myndaw, in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike, who is also Lord of the City. The Riuer Visur∣gis runnes by it, ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches. Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man, seuen maria-groshen for meat, and as much for wine. The beere of this territory is very bitter, and like a potion makes one laxatiue. The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe, through Moun∣taines for halfe the way, and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull, and dined at Norton, each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe. After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village, through a like fruitfull plaine of corne, and by the way we passed Namerton, a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke. In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen. The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason, through hils and fields of corne, the building of the City is of meere clay, couered with thatch, but our diet was plentifull, and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe, and his part for the Coach-man. After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village, through wooddy mountaines, yet fruitfull of corne and pasture, and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen.

The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City. Many fields as we came be∣sides * 1.30 the corne, were set with cabage and rootes, and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South, the City Wolfenbieten, where the Duke of Brun∣swike keepes his Court, and though he be so called of an old title, yet he is not Lord of Brunswike, which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine, all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne. The City is of a quadrangle forme, and in cir∣cuit containes two miles, being held greater then Nurnberg, and lesse then Erford. It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes, and is very strong, hauing the wals on some sides double, and otherwhere treble, besides that it hath a wooddy valley be∣tween deepe ditches filled with water, and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur. With∣in this wall and riuer are fiue Cities, distinguished by priuiledges, but vnited by lawes. The first seated towards the west, is called Altstat, that is Old city, hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place, and neere it the cathedrall Church, called Martinstifft. The second lying towards the North, is called Newstat, that is New city. The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke. The fourth lying towards the South is cal∣led Imhagen. And the fifth which was built first of all, and lieth also towards the South, is called Altweg, that is, The old way. This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony, and had the name of Bruno, and the Dutch word Vuick, signifying a Village. It hath twelue Churches, whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead, which be∣ing very rare in Germany, is held to be magnificent; the rest are couered with tiles, one excepted, which (to my remembrance) is couered with brasse, which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed, and the houses are built of timber and clay. In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion, which the Emperour Henry the first, surnamed Lyon, erected there.

From Branswike I went to Luneburge, and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village, through a sandy plaine, and fenny wild ground, and by the way we passed Getherne a village, where the Duke of Luneburge (Lord of this territory) hath a Castle, and he holds his court some fiue miles off, at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings. In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a coun∣trey house, through like Fenny and woody wild grounds, seeing but one Village in the way; and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings. Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff, through like grounds: and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned: for I for∣merly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg, we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet, himselfe paying for his horse-meat, as commonly they doe. Af∣ter dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge, through a soyle as barren as the former, where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper, eight Lu∣becke shillings. I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before, but goe on with my iourney.

The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon, through a Fenny ground, and woods of Oake, yeelding some corne, but sparingly, and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge, whose territory endeth here. Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff, and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue, paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg, to which Cities this territory is subiect, and gouerned by them in course, the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue, is more fruitfull, the fields being full of corne, and ditches of water planted with willowes: here each man paid six Lu∣becke shillings for our dinners. In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge, hauing on the left side towards the West, faire pastures, and on the right hand to∣wards * 1.31 the East, woods of oake, and fruitfull hils of corne. From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode, and paid for my passage three Lubeck shil∣lings. These things I briefly set downe, hauing described these Cities before.

From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham, an English gentleman, whom I left at Heidelberg.

NOble Sir, I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you, which in a word I haue done, omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example: Onely for my promise sake, I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney. When we parted at Eranckfort, you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings, poore Merchants of Linnen cloth, and a Dutch Rider, and a Booke-bin∣der of Denmarke. I comming first to the Coach, tooke the most commodious seat, which these my worthy companions (forsooth) tooke in ill part, yet neither their mur∣muring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them. Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike, which iourney since you purpose to take, I aduise you to passe as soone as you can, that you may be out of your paine, and come to more pleasant Countries: for there you shall haue grosse meat, sower wine, stinking drinke, and filthy beds, and were not the way free from robberies, and the people curteous, I know not what other inconuenience might happen to a stranger in any passage. Your diet shall be for most part of cole worts, which was so strange to me, and so hard of digestion, as it greatly troubled me, and wrought vpon my body like physicke. At Brunswike I saw a lamentable sight, which I dare scarce relate to you, knowing your tendernes in those cases, yet for promise sake I must tell you, that I saw a very faire maide of fifteene yeeres, married to mine Host an old ohurle of seuenty yeeres. Be not discouraged, I will tell you a merry accident. Who would haue thought that my companions had dissembled so long their malice to mee, that now it might breake forth with more bitternes? You know Brunswike is a free city of the Empire, and one of those, which for priuiledge of trafficke vpon these coasts, are called Hans-steten. Here out of custome passengers comming at first to enter trafficke, vse to giue the wine to the old Merchants, to which custome gentlemen for sociablenes haue submit∣ted

themselues, so as the custome is almost growne into a Law. Now, for this pur∣pose, salt being put about the table, for all to sweare whether they were free or no, I confessed that I had not yet paied for my freedome, yeelding my self to their censure. To be briefe; after they had fined me some cannes of wine, and with many ceremo∣nies, had made me free, it remained that he whom they had chosen to be my God-fa∣ther, making a graue Oration, with some rude ieasts after their fashion, should instruct me with some precepts how to recouer this expence. One of my companions easily tooke this charge vpon him; and after many circumstances, he concluded in this man∣ner: You are an Englishman, and because your countrey men loue to sit easily, and to fare delicately, I aduise you, that both at table and in coach, you be carefull to take the best place, which if you be diligent to performe, you shall bee soone satisfied for this expence. By chance my place then at table was betweene the coach-man and his seruant, for you know the Dutch are not curious of place, and little regard strangers in that kinde; but I knew where my Gentlemans shooe wrung him, namely in that I had chosen my place in the coach. And thus I answered him; Sir I take thankeful∣ly your graue counsell, and will make vse of it; but me thinkes it is too generall, ma∣king no distinction of degrees, for if I haue Gentlemen to my companions, who are not willingly ouercome in courtesie, I should rather yeeld them place: but if I fall in∣to base and clownish company, I will not faile to make vse of your counsell. The Gentlemen at Table smiled, and so we ended this ceremony with a health. Hence I passed to Lunchurg, and so to Hamburg; where the people after dinner, warmed with drinke, are apt to wrong any stranger, and hardly indure an English-man in the morning when they are sober. Therefore without any stay, I passed hence to Stode. It is strange how the people raile on English-men in these parts. For that which we call warre at sea, and the royall Nauy, that they terme robbery and Pirats ships: neither haue they the patience to heare any iustification or excuse. You see what toyes I write, rather then I will leaue you vnsaluted, and if you vse not like freedome to me, farewell friendship. So I take my leaue, from Stode the first of October, 1592.

From Stode I passed to Emden, and for the better explaning of that iourney, giue mee leaue to prefix the following Letter; out of the due place, being written from Emden, and directed

To AEgidius Hoffman, a Gentleman of Flaunders, my deare friend, Student at Heidelberg.

NOble AEgidius, the Letters you gaue me to deliuer at Breme, haue produced a co∣micall euent, (such may all the passages be of our loue,) which you shall vnder∣stand in a word. When in my purposed iourney I came to Stode, more tired with the base companions I had, then the way; it happened, whilest I spent some dayes there with my friends, euery man spake of Spanish theeues, vulgarly called Freeboo∣ters, who stealing out of their Garrisons vpon the Low-countries, lay in the villages, and vpon the high-wayes, by which I was to passe in my iourney to Emden, from which Citie a Merchant was newly arriued, who terrified me more then all the rest, affirming that in one day he had fallen thrice into these cut-throtes hands, and though he were of a neutrall City, yet had paied many Dollers for his ransome, adding, that they inquired curiously after English-men, promising rewards in the villages, to any man should giue them notice when any such passed. I knew not what counsell to take. There was no lesse danger from the Pirats of Dunkirke, if I passed by sea, especially in a ship of Hamburg, no other being in the harbour, & they being like to betray me, out of malice to our nation. Besides, the weather was very tempestious, & not like to change. Therefore my obstinate purpose to see the Cities vpon this coast, made me resolue to goe by land. So I bought an old Brunswicke thrummed hat, and made mee a poore Dutch suite, rubbing it in the dust to make it seeme old, so as my Taylor said, he took more paines to spoyle it, then to make it. I bought me linnen stockings, and disco∣loured my face and hands, and so without cloake, or sword, with my hands in my hose, tooke my place in a poore waggon. I practised as much as I could, Pythagori∣call

silence; but if any asked me who I was, I told him that I was a poore Bohemian, and had long serued a Merchant at Leipzig, who left mee to dispatch some businesse at Stode, and then commanded me to follow him to Emden. If you had seene my ser∣uile countenance, mine eyes cast on the ground, my hands in my hose, and my mo∣dest silence, you would haue taken me for a harmelesse yong man. Many pleasant euents happened to me thus disguised; wherewith I will not trouble you, onely one I am tied to impart to you. When I came to Breme, I was doubtfull what to doe with your Letters. I thought not to deliuer them, but keepe them till a fitter time, or at least to send them by a messenger. But in so doing I should haue broken my pro∣mise to you, haue lost the fruit of your recommendation, and the opportunity to see your mother and sisters, without hope hereafter to see them. Then I thought to deliuer them, and because I was disguised in base apparell, to confesse who I was, and wherefore so disguised. But when I looked my face in a glasse, I could not for shame take this course. At last I resolued to deliuer them, and to say, I was seruant to my selfe, (wherein I lyed not, for I haue euer too much obeyed my owne affections,) and that my master meaning to passe from Stode by sea, for feare of the abouesaid dan∣gers, had sent me by land, with command to stay for him at Leyden. To bee briefe, I went to your mothers house, where a seruant opened mee the doore, to whom I gaue your Letters; but when he scarce looking at me, would haue locked the doore, I took my Letters againe, saying I had promised to deliuer them with my owne hand; and so I entred with him, and gaue them into the hands of your mother and sister, who inquired much after you, and so much after my master, as I might perceiue you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters. They entertained me with much cur∣tesie, being thus disguised for my owne seruant; and when I went away your mother would needs giue mee six batzen to spend, neither would any refusall preuaile, but I must needs take them. So I set a marke vpon these peeces, left I should spend them; and am not out of hope, ere I die, to shew them to you. To the purpose; at the dore I met your brother, whom I had seene at Frankfort, and was not a little afraide left for all my disguising, he would haue knowne me. Let it not trouble you, that I tell you another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme. Disguised as I was, I went to the house of Doctor Penzelius, desiring to haue the name of so famous a Diuine, written in my stemme-booke, with his Mott, after the Dutch fashion. Hee seeing my poore habite, and a booke vnder my arme, tooke me for some begging Scholler, and spake sharpely vnto me. But when in my masters name I had respectiuely salu∣ted him, and told him my request, he excused his mistaking, and with all curtesie per∣formed my desire. I will trouble you no longer, but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you, & tell you all the other passages of my iourney. In the meane time I go forward to Leyden in Holland, you (as you do) euer loue me, and as my soule, liue and farewell. From Emden the twenty one of October, 1592.

I paied twenty foure Stiuers for my passage eleuen miles in a waggon from Stode to Breme. And the first day after breakefast, wee passed three miles to Ford, a poore Citie, subiect to the Bishop of Breme: through wilde, fenny; and woody grounds. The Towne is seated in a Fenne, hauing a long paued Causey to passe vnto it; and the gate being opened to vs by night, each man gaue the Porter two Lubeck shillings, and by the way in a village' each man paied, six Fenning for his person. At Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle, strongly fortified with Rampiers of earth, and deepe ditches full of water; and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck shillings and a halfe. The waggoner taking me thus disguised (as formerly I haue said) for a poore Bawre; said these words to me in Dutch: Du knecht hilff zu tragen die packe hye: that is Ho good fellow, helpe here to carry this pack; I answered, ya gar gern, yea most wil∣lingly; and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen, and groned deepely, but help∣ed him very little. Next morning early, by Moone light, we passed on three miles, through large and wilde woods, to a Countrey house; and by the way my compani∣ons fell in talke of English affaires, so foolishly, as my laughter, though restrained, had often betraied me; if twi-light had not kept mee from being seene. Their ignorance

greatly shortned my way, with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some such que∣stions propounded by me, whereof my selfe had many times beene forced to giue an account to others. By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig, of certaine false witnesses of old sinking there into the ground. At this Countrey house, each man paied for his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halfe. Then from sixe of the clocke in the morning, till nine, we passed fiue miles to Breme; through an Heath, and many huge Woods of Oake; hauing towards the South a Fenne of tenne miles length, which of the vastnesse and wildenesse, is called the Diuels Fenne. By the way within a mile of Breme, each man paied halfe a Sesling tribute, to the officers of the City; and from thence wee passed a winding paued Causey, to the very City. Men may also passe from Hamburg to Breme by water.

This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities, and of them which vpon this Sea∣coast, * 1.32 are called Hans-steten, for freedome of trafficke, and it is very strongly fortified with high walles of earth, and deepe ditches filled with water: besides that the Citi∣zens may drowne the Fenny fields almost round about at pleasure. The building of this, as also of the neighbour Cities; is partly of bricke, partly of stone, and very faire, but the streets heere are filthy. The Citie is fiue miles distant from the sea; And the riuer Visurgis running from the South east to the North VVest, by the South west side of the City runneth al the length of the same. On the North east side, the walles of earth are broad, and there bee three faire gates, with strong Rampiers. Vpon the South West side, being compassed all with Fennes, there bee no walles. In the furthest angle or corner towards the North west, where the City growes narrow; there is a strong Fort built, & the gate is within an Iland, beyond which lies a plaine of faire pastures. Osen-bridge lies not farre hence, from which towne great quantity of narrow linnen cloth is brought into England. At Breme I paied halfe a Doller for din∣ner, supper and breakfast; and a stiebkin or measure of wine extraordinary.

They had heere also the custome of making strangers free, and the same ceremony of giuing salt to sweare by; and I confessing that I was not free, committed my fine to their censure, hoping they would deale better with mee, for my poore disguised ha∣bit, but it saued me nothing; the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch: Gutt gesell du must gedult haben, es geit gleich bistu knecht oder here, deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich. That is, good fellow thou must haue patience, it is all one whether thou beest a seruant or a master, this custome toucheth both alike.

After dinner, taking my iourney from Breme, wee passed a mile vpon a stony Causey, called Steinweck, that is, stony way; and there each man paied to the officers of Breme, a quarter of a Stiuer. Then entering the Territory of the Graue (that is Count) of Oldenburg, we passed a mile through faire pastures, compassed with ditches of water, to a village, where each man paid a Sesling to the Count, and to this place each man paid for his Waggon fiue groates. Here when my companions had drunke their fill, and had slept a while in the straw, as my selfe did vpon a bench, to shun the stinking heat of the stoue; we hyred another waggon for three miles, paying fifteene groats: and that we might more securely passe, wee tooke our iourney at midnight, through a heath of huge woods of Oake, and came to Oldenburge, early in the mor∣ning before the gates were open.

The Citie is built of meere clay, but the Counts Castle is built in a round forme * 1.33 of stone, with deepe ditches of water, ouer which they passe by a drawing bridge, and both the Castle and the City are strongly fortified. Heere we had English beere, the goodnesse whereof made my companions speake much in honour of England, and of the Queene, with much wonder that shee being a Virgine, was so victorious against the Spaniards, till in this discourse they all fell fast asleepe.

After breakfast the next morning, wee hauing hired a waggon for eighteene groates, passed foure miles in the territory of the said Count; and one mile to Stick∣hausen, in the territory of the Count of Emden, who had a Castle there. Then because we could get no waggon in this place, wee went one mile further on foot, which be∣ing very long, and my selfe hauing some gold Guldens in my shooes, which I could

not remoue without suspicion; the way was very irkesome to mee, and we came to a countrey house, but wee found good cheere, each man paying for his supper seuen groates. My selfe sitting last at the table, by reason of my poore habit, paied as much as the best, and fedde on the worst, but I had more minde of my bed, then of my meat. And one of my companions after supper, hauing streight boots, when I had taught him to pull off one by the helpe of a staffe, for recompence of my counsell, desired mee to pull off the other, which being disguised as I was, I could not well re∣fuse. The next morning we hired a waggon for eleuen stiuers, and passed along mile to Leere, a towne subiect to the Count of Emden, who dwelt not far off, at Dunort a strong Castle. Our way through a Fen, was so deepe, as the waggon wheeles being pulled off, we went good part of the way on foot.

Here we vnderstood that the Spanish Free-booters (called by the English Male∣contents) lay at Aurick, another castle of the said Count, and being loded with booty, had taken a barke by force, to passe ouer the Emsz. These cut-throates vsed at this time to raunge out of the Spanish Garrisons vpon the Low-countries, & to spoile all passengers in these parts, which they did with more confidence, because the Count of Oldenburg, being offended with the Citizens of Breme, permitted these theeues to rob them, who were also very malicious against those of Breme, because they had lately taken thirty foure Free-booters; and beheading them altogether, had set vp their heads vpon stakes. Besides the Count of Emden hauing beene lately driuen out of Emden, by the Citizens in a tumult about religion, did permit these Free-boo∣ters to lie in his Country, and spoyle the Merchants of that City. The chiefe Cap∣taine of the Free-boaters then lying at Aurick: was Hans Iacob, a notable roge, and very malicious to the English, whom he vsed to spoyle of their very apparell, & to handle them cruelly; mocking them with these English words; I cannot tell, and swearing that he would make them tell, both of themselues, and of their countrey men passing that way. Some few dayes before hee had taken foure English wollen clothes, and many Flemmish linnen clothes; which they diuided by the length of a ditch, in stead of a better measure, and we were glad to heare that in this diuision they fell at variance, for when this Hans I acob would haue stopt a part, for the chiefe Captaine of the Garrison, the rest cryed out in Dutch: wir wollen dein mawger kopff lieber in zwey kleiben: Stelen wir sur andern vnd hangen far vns selbs? That is, wee will rather cleaue thy leane pate in two. Shall we steale for others and hang for our selues? And they vsed many reproches against him and their chiefe Captaine, saying in Dutch: Finstu was, bringt mirs, hangstu aber, habt dirs: Die Iudem, pfaffen, hauptleinte, vnd in hund, ver dienen ihr kost mit thr mund: That is, findest thou ought, bring it me, hangest thou, take that to thee? The lewes, Priests, Captaines and dogs, earne their liuing with their mouth; but these cut-throates, howsoeuer they had passed the Emsz, yet meant presently to returne, and had their spics in euery towne and village.

I returne to my iourney. While we lay at Leere for a night, a Doctor of the Ciuill Law seeing mee walke in the garden, and thinking my seruile habit not fit for con∣templation, commanded mee to draw water for his horse, giuing mee no reward pre∣sently but onely a nod; yet after when he had drunke with his friends, going out, he said to me, Knecht dore hastu zu drincken, That is, Sirra drinke you what is left. After supper, hauing expected a bed almost till midnight, the maide at last told mee I must lie vpon the bench; but after, while I was washing my feet, which the gold in my shooes had gauled, she espying my silke stokings, which I wore vnder my linnen, ran to her mistresse, and procured me a very good bed. This effect pleased me well, but I was afraide of the cause, by which lest I should bee discouered, I hasted away early next morning. I paied heere for my supper and breakfast, fifteene Stiuers, and giuing the seruant one for his paines, hee would haue restored it to mee, seeming by my habit to haue more need thereof then himselfe.

All this night and the next day, great store of raine fell, and the winde was so tempestuous, as we could not passe by water, neither would my companions hire a waggon, besides that, the way was at this time so dirty, as no waggon could passe it.

Notwithstanding since now onely two miles remained of my dangerous iourney, and I thought no thiefe would come out in such raine, I resolued to goe on foot with my companions to Emden, being two miles, but of vnspeakeable length, and difficul∣ty to passe. In the high way wee had three passages; one vpon the top of the Banke, lying vpon an; arme of the Sea, or rather vpon the Riuer Emsz running into the Sea, and in this passage the tempestious winde was like to beare vs ouer; and blinded vs with driuing salt water into our eyes, besides that wee went ouer the shooes in dirt. The second passage was on the side of the banke, from the water, somewhat fairer then the other, but in that most troublesome, that wee were forced continually to leane vpon a staffe, which euery one had in his hand lest being not staied with the staffe, we should fall into the lower way, which was intolerably dirty. The lower way, or third passage, in the bottome of the banke furthest from the water, was for the pas∣sage of waggons, but the fields round about being ouerflowed in winter, this passage was now 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉. In this way we passed a very long mile, from the little City Leere, to the Village Aldernsea, from seuen of the clocke in the morning to twelue. We come out at first tenne companions in this iourney, but at the very com∣ming out 〈◊〉〈◊〉 six of them left vs, despairing to passe against a contrary winde in a foule rainy day and their feet sticking fast in the dirt, and they mocked at our obsti∣nacy in going. Within a while, my selfe was wet to the skinne, and my shooes at euery step, were almost to the off, so as I was forced to binde them on with foure points, neither did any of vs looke backe at his fellow, to helpe him if hee could not follow, and if I should haue fallen into the Sea, I am confident none of them would haue come back to succour me. After we had gone halfe a mile, one of our foure com∣panions being a young man: with a blacke beard, & able body, would not goe one foot further, though he had but one Stiuer in his purse, and was forced to borrow money of vs, that he might stay in a poore Ale-house. When we came to Aldernsea, the Free∣booters spies, came to the Inne & gaped vpon vs, so as though I were wet to the skin, yet I durst not pull off any thing to dry, sest my inward garments better then my vp∣per, should betray my disguise: neither durst I call for wine and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of money. Each of vs paied seuen Stiuers for his dinner. Here another of our companions left vs, being so tired, as hee went to bed without eating one bit. So as now I had onely one companion left, called Anthony, a man of little stature, and a Citizen of Emden. We so be free of this dangerous iour∣ney, went forward, and as we came out of the Village, the Free-booters spies came close to vs, and beheld vs narrowly; but seeing vs all couered with dirt, they tooke vs for poore men, and a prey vnfit to be followed. Wee gathering vp strength went on, till at last wee were so weary, as hauing no strength to chuse our way, wee cast away our staues, and went almost vp to the knees in dirt, in the lower way.

At last, hauing gone one mile (as me thought wondrous long) from one of the * 1.34 clocke in the afternoone to fiue, wee came to Emden, where my selfe entring the gate, could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names, but had lyen downe on the ground if they had not giuen mee a seat. Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters, in giuing my name, I wrote my selfe an English-man; the standers by not a little wondring that I had put my self to this dangerous passage. And truly this iourney, if it were free from all danger; yet the ill diet and lodging would yeeld trouble enough, for which I appeale to Lipsius, who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement in West-Phalen, and Oldenburg. The Citie of Emden lies in the vtmost border of the Empire, and is onely diuided by the Riuer Emsz; from the vnited Prouince of Netherland, and by an Inland Sea from West Freez-land, being one of them. The Countrey about Emden aboundeth with villages, and from a Tower at Goricome, a man may see at once vpon a saire day twenty two walled Townes. Not farre from this City, neere 〈◊〉〈◊〉, is the place where the Duke of Alūa defeated the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw, his Dutch-men refusing to fight, except they were first paied. All the fields about Emden are drowned in winter, and the City lying vpon the Sea; for want of fresh waters they dresse most of their meat with raine water. The aire

is very vnhealthfull, but the City is fairely built of bricke, and the Citizens are very curteous. On the South side the Riuer Emsz washeth the City with his salt streames, on which side is the Hauen, and the Citizens are said to haue some three score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece, and some six hundred barkes of their owne. In the Church-yard on this side, many peeces of Ordinance are laid, towards Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort, and the like are laid vpon the Hauen, and some places of aduantage: for the City hath no walles on this side. On the West side, beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of the Sea, and vpon this side is a strong old Castle. On the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth, and deepe ditches full of water, and there be two strong gates, Belgar-port, and New-port, with∣out which the fields are Fenny. On this side there is a passage by boat, to the su∣burbes on the East side, where the fields without the towne are faire pastures in sum∣mer, but all ouerflowed in winter; and vpon the Rampier of the wall, are many Winde-mils. The City is of a round forme, if it were not somewhat longer from the East to the West. At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stiuers a meale, three stiuers for a quart of English beere, eleuen Stiuers for a quart of Spanish wine, thirteene Stiuers a quart of Rhenish wine, and seuen Stiuers for French wine: my selfe paid for supper and breakfast twenty three Stiuers.

CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Emden in Germany, to Leyden in Holland, and through the vnited Prouinces of the Low-Countries.

ON Thursday the twenty seuen of October, in the yeere 1592, I tooke ship after dinner at Emden; being to saile * 1.35 into West Freesland, one of the vnited Prouinces, and paied for my passage tenne Stiuers. The same night wee cast anchor neere Vrspenhurn, a Fort seated beyond the Emsz, and belonging to the States of the vnited Prouin∣ces; and beyond this Port towards Plaunders, on the same side of the Emsz, lieth the Territory of the City Groning, seated in an Iland, rich in pastures, and at this time go∣uerned by a Spanish Garrison, which the Citizens had willingly receiued, though the States after besieged this City, and droue out the Spaniards, and vnited the City to the rest. As we lay at Anchor, two little Ilands lay on the North side, one subiect to Emden, the other to Groning, and beyond them lay the German Sea. On Friday wee set saile with a scant winde, and towards night were left vpon a Flat, vulgarly called Gat: where the water forsaking vs, we walked out of the ship vpon the sand, compas∣sed round about with the Sea, till the same flowing backe againe, our ship floated. On Saterday we set saile againe, and towards night rested vpon a like Flat, expecting the floud. Three of these Flats are in this Inland sea, and there be two like Flats in the Inland sea, beteene Freesland and Holland. At last wee landed on Sunday in Freesland, at the Village Aniou, lying neere the Sea shore, whether wee hired a sledge for eight stiuers, and were drawne thither ouer the yce and snow.

After we had dined for twelue stiuers each man (whereof more then halfe was rec∣koned for drinke) we went in a skeut by water, in foure houres space, one mile to Dockam: and each man paid for his passage foure stiuers and a halfe, we could not * 1.36 passe by waggon, the high way being then drowned. Nothing were more pleasant, nothing more quicke, then Sea-voyages, if a man might promise himselfe a good wind, and a reasonable gale: but through contrariety of winds and tempests, they commonly proue tedious. This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies, might haue beene passed in sixe houres, if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a

short passage, caused vs to make no prouision of victuals, so as the Barke being go∣uerned by one Mariner and a boy, who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon, and so could not much releeue vs; each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland, little in circuit, is in two places diuided with water, which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses. The wall is strong with rampiers of earth, and the houses here, as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke. Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers, eating at an Ordinary, but the company sitting at the fire, and drinking after supper, all vseth to be diuided equally, whether a man drinke or not.

The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden, hauing on each side the water, fertile pastures, and passing by two Forts, and each man * 1.37 paid for his passage three stiuers. The City is faire and well fortified, and William Count of Nassau, cousin to Count Maurice, and Gouernour of Friesland, had his resi∣dence in the same. The streetes are large, and diuided with water, and the houses are fairely builded of bricke. The City hath no Suburbs, and is of a round forme, but the waters diuiding the streetes, slowly or not at all moued, are in this City (as almost in all other of these Prouinces) subiect to stinking. In the midst of the City there is a dam to∣let in water at pleasure, which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast. Passen∣gers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers, and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne. The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contri∣bution to the Spanish garison of Groning, left they should breake in, and spoile them. Here (they say) the first sermon of reformed religion was made, in the Monastery of the Iacobinet: and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers.

From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning, to fiue in the * 1.38 afternoone, two-miles to Froniker, an Vniuersity of Friesland, lately renewed, and one mile to the City Harlingen, and we paid six stiuers for our passage. Entering this City, we left our swords with the guard of souldiers, who restored them to vs when wee * 1.39 went away. It is a little City, and lieth in length from the East to the West, but is some∣what more narrow towards the North, where the houses are thinly built. On the west and North sides, lies an arme of the Sea, comming out of the German Sea, and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands. On the South and East sides without the gates, are faire pastures in a large plaine. I lodged in an Englishmans house, the chiefe Host of the City, who either dispising England and Englishmen, or too much respe∣cting his masters of Friesland, gaue me such entertainment, as I tooke him for one of the old Picts: for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table, he called me to the second, and seeing that I tooke it in ill part, lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging, he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed, but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and lin∣nen, for very scorne would not trouble his worship, but chose rather to lie vpon a bench. And it was most ridiculous, that this Host excused himselfe to me, as hauing for countries sake made bold with me, whom he had neuer seene before. I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine, thirty stiuers, and one of my consorts drinking no wine, paid sixeteene, whereof nine was for beere.

From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea, vulgarly called Zwidersea, foure∣teene miles to Amsterdam, and paid eight stiuers for my passage. Some of our passen∣gers going onely to Enchusen, paid fiue stiuers, for by couenant betweene the Cities, the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen, and there receiue such new passengers * 1.40 as they find, and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage. From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland, wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland, which is fortified with a wall of earth, and strong rampiers, and lieth in length from the North to the South. The Hauen lies on the East side; and the new City was then building towards the West side. This City lying betweene the mouth of the Ger∣man sea, and Amsterdam, another City of Holland, and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange, forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of vi∣ctuals, to yeeld to the said Prince. Hauing made short stay here, we tooke ship againe,

and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening, to twelue in the night, in the same Inland sea, we entered the Riuer Tay, where we cast anchor till foure in the morning, and then setting sayle, passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke, and landed at Am∣sterdam.

Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer: Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side, where is a safe port, the trafficke being great in this * 1.41 City, and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped. Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place, called Campplata, where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea, and returning home. From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat, a long and large street, betweene two Riuers, which part of the City is called, the new Ditch. The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge, and in win∣ter they meet in the New Church, in very great number, where they walke in two rankes by couples, one ranke going vp, and another going downe, and there is no way to get out of the Church, except they slip out of the doores, when in one of those rankes they passe by them. On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone, higher then the City, hauing a pleasant walke vpon it. In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes: beyond this wall there is another of earth, and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out, where of few houses were then built, but since I heare it is fully finished. Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals, and between them the plot of the said new City, in which many faire houses were then built. The fields on all sides without the gates being fen∣ny and drowned with water, doe make the City more strong, but for this cause (they say) the foundations of the houses being laid in water, cost as much or more as the houses themselues. The Riuer Amster (of which, and the word dam, the City is na∣med) running from the South through three lakes, entereth this city, and passing through it, fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side. The City hath fiue gates, which are shut at dinners and suppers, though the danger of the warre be farre from them. There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day, and foure on sunday. The City lay in length from the North to the South, but adding the plot of the new City, it is of a round forme. The streetes are narrow, and the buil∣ding of bricke, with a low roofe, shewed antiquity. They haue two Almeshouses (called Gasthausen, that is, Houses for strangers) which were of old Monasteries. One of these houses built round, was a Cloyster for Nunnes, wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased, and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England, being hurt or sicke, and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of o∣ther Nations: to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes, a good diet, and necessary clothes, with great cleanlinesse, and allow them Physitians & Sur∣gions to cure them: and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses. Here I lodged with an English-man, and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers, and for a guest inuited to supper, ten stiuers, and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine, twenty one stiuers.

From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam, and paid for my passage foure stiuers: we had not passed farre from Amsterdam, when we came to a damme, shutting out the flowing of the sea, for the waters are salt thus farre, though the eb∣bing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam, for the depth of the Riuer Tay; aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing. Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes, and so let fall into the water on the other side, for which the Mariners paid tribute. There is another damme for greater Barkes, and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure, so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea, when the Land hath too much water. From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side, not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed, were faire pastures, parted with ditches of water.

The Riuer running from Amsterdam, from the East to the North, doth turne

neere Harlam towards the South, and diuideth the City, which on all sides is com∣pasied * 1.42 with Nauigable waters. On the North side neere the gate Ians-port, Don Frederick, sonne to the Duke of Alun, pitched his tent in a meadow, when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces, and much spoiled those parts, beating downe Gen∣tlemens faire houses (dwelling frequently in that part) with his Artillery, playing into this street, hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn. On the same side are two other gates, Sayle-port, and Cruyse-port, and without them toward the sea, be∣ing halfe a mile distant, are very faire pastures, but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea. For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea: one betweene Rotherodam and Bril, a Fort of Zealand, the second at Vlishing ano∣ther Port of Zealand, and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands, called rhe Fly and Shelling. Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam, entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port, on the East side, where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe, in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards, and the walles then beaten downe, were not yet rebuilt. On the South side is the fifth gate, Grote-holt Port, the street whereof is the fairest, next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn. On this side was a wall of stone, but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth. In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting, and another old house for the same vse, and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees, and a second mar∣ket-place of good length for the selling of Cattle. Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay, and destroyed a most pleasant Wood, of which the gate and street haue the name. And they report that the Spaniards taking the City, vsed great cruelty to all; but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers. The Histories witnesse, that three hundred were beheaded; and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake, called Harlam-mere. On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth, and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea. A∣mong the Churches; that which is called the Great, is the fairest, and our Ladies Church, vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke, is the next in beautie. All the sea coast of Holland, is a sandy downe, in which are great store of conies. This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes, and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it. The water heere (as most of these Cities) standing, and little or nothing mouing, is subiect to stinking, so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats. Here I paied for supper, and my part of wine twenty stiuers, and for my dinner without wine, thirteene stiuers. About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil, called Weligheberg, whether the brides vse to walke, and there take their leaues of the Virgins. And in the mid way towards Almer, is another Hil, where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated. In the market-place, ouer against the Pallace, they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn, vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing; and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth, which they say were brought from Pelusium, a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle.

From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers, and came fiue miles in fiue houres space, to Leyden, our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way, but staying * 1.43 very little. In the way we had on all sides faire pastures, and passed by the Lake, or Mere of Harlam, lying towards the South, and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced, and made by Art; being sandy and very dry, though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water. At the gates of Leyden, the men goe out of the vvaggon, and onely vvomen may be carried into the City, lest (as I thinke) the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons, should breake the bricke pauements of the streets.

Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam, that I might receiue money sent me by exchange. So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part, from hence to Harlam, and by the way I obserued, that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way, must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet, because their horses should in reason be most weary. At Harlam I paied for supper, bed, and breakfast, twenty fiue stiuers. Hence I vvent by vvaggon, and paied for my part of it sixteene

stiuers, for three miles to Amsterdam, and there receiuing my money, returned to Har∣lam, drawne ouer the snow and ice (which had plentifully fallen) on a sledge: for which I paid foure stiuers; and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields, to direct the way to passengers.

From Harlam I returned to Leyden, where I lodged in a French-mans house, for in∣tending to bestow all my time in the French tongue, till by Letters I should dispose * 1.44 of my estate in England, and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City, I found no abiding fitter for me then this. I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens, and fifteene stiuers weekely, but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale, according to the quantity of beere they drinke, and or∣dinarily twenty stiuers or more, if they drinke wine. Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen, that is, lieth by the Downes (so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea, as the English doe likewise in Kent, Leyden is of a round forme, or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West, where the Rheine passeth by it. It is a City of much beauty, the houses are very fairely built of bricke, and be vniforme. The Churches are couered with long slates (as they be almost through all Holland) and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest, in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in, where the Merchants meet. Many streetes are diuided with waters, which are passed by woodden bridges, and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland, he shall find water. I said that the Rheine passeth by this City, yet doth it not fall into the Sea, but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water, in this low part of the continent. Toward the North-west about a mile from the City, there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City, & vulgarly called Malgatt, because the Ci∣tizens spent much treasure, in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships, and a nauiga∣ble water to come vp to the Towne; for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea, fil∣led the place vp, where they thought to haue made the Hauen, as fast as they could dig it, yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke. Notwith∣standing salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they car∣ry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof. Vpon the same Sea-shore, towards the North, and like distance from the City, is a Village called Catwicke, seated vpon Mountaines of sands, on the maine sea. Vpon the same shore further towards the North, is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory, the ruines where∣of (some musket shot from the shore) more or lesse appeare, as the wind couers them with sand, or blowing from another quarter, driues away the sand, and so laies them open. Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp, and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Empe∣rour, which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey. Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke, lie vpon the aforesaid Downes, but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them. Leyden hath fiue gates, Regenspurgport, on the West side, which leadeth to Harlam, and to Catwicke; and white port which lea∣deth to Hage, betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates, for boates to passe in and out. Neere White Port lies a house, where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow. On the South side is the gate Kow-port, leading into the pastures. Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port, more fortified then any of the rest, and it leadeth to Vberden, Gonda, and to Alphen. There is another gate Zillport, which leadeth ro Vtretcht, whither you passe by water or land. The foresaid street, which I said was the beauty of the Towne, lieth from the West to Hochwertzport, on the East side, and is called Breitstrat, that is Broadstreete.

In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Pro∣uinces, * 1.45 I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers, and went from Leyden to Delph, three miles in three houres space, through corne fields and rich pastures, and hauing gone two third parts of the way, we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph. In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides, and is very plaine, sandy, and very dry, being daily repaired by the countrey people. By the way is a mill, in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels, and they

haue many such miles in those parts. Not farre of, at Voberg, the Histories write of a holy Groue, famous for a conspiracy against the Romans.

The City of Delph, lyeth in length from the North to the South, and the falrest street called Corne-mart, lies the same way. Here (as in all the Cities of these parts) * 1.46 the buildings are of bricke, but the houses of Delph are more stately built, and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where. In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange, the poorest that euer I saw for such a person, being onely of rough stones and morter, with posts of wood, coloured ouer with black, and very little erec∣ted from the ground. Neere the Church is a large market-place, and within a little Iland the Senate house is built. The Hauen is on the South side. The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery, and vsed to eat in a low parlor, whence as he ascen∣ded the staires into the chamber, a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound, who flying by a backe doore, was after taken in the Citie, and put to a most cruell, but most deserued death. The Countesse of Buren, daughter to this said Prince, now liued in this Monastery with her family. Here I paied for one meale, for my selfe and a guest inuited by me, and two pots of Rhenish wine; three guldens, and fiue stiuers. When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces, the Prince of Orange then lying here, to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards, brake downe the bankes of the sea, and let in the waters, which did much hurt to the Countrey, but sa∣ued them from the Spaniards, who with great feare hasted away, giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent. At Delph are about three hundred Brewers, and their beere, for the goodnesse, is called Delphs-English; but howsoe∣uer they had Brewers, and the very water out of England, they could neuer make their beere so much esteemed as the English, which indeed is much bettered by the carriage ouer sea to these parts.

Hence I went to Sluse, so called of the damme to let waters in and out, and came thither in two houres, paying for my waggon thirteene stiuers, which I hired alone, for if I had light vpon company, we should haue paied no more betweene vs. Hence I passed the Riuer Mase, where it falleth into the sea, and came to Brill, my selfe and two others, paying twelue stiuers for our passage: but the barke being presently to returne, and therefore not entring the Port, set vs on land neere the Towne, whether we walked on foot.

Brill is a fortified Towne, laid in pledge to Queene Elizabeth, for money she lent the States, and it was then kept by foure English Companies paid by the Queene, * 1.47 vnder the gouernment of the Lord Burrowes. The Towne is seated in an Iland, which was said to bee absolute of it selfe, neither belonging to Zealand, nor Holland. On the North side, the Riuer Mase runneth by. On the East side are corne fieldes, and the Riuer somewhat more distant. On the South side are corne fields. On the West side are corne fields, and the maine Sea little distant. Here I paied for my sup∣per and dinner twenty stiuers, and for a pot of wine eighteene stiuers.

From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in Holland, and paied for my pas∣sage three stiuers. In the mouth of the Riuer of Roterodam, lies the City Arseldipig, and another called Delphs-Ile, being the Hauen of Delph, which was then a pleasant Village; but growing to a City, and hauing beene lately burnt by, fire was fairely rebuilded.

Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West. The Hauen is on the South * 1.48 side, being then full of great ships; vpon which side it lay open without walles, hauing many faire houses, and a sweet walke vpon the banke of the water. Neither is it for∣tified on the sides towards the land, nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege; hauing low walles on the North and East sides, yet compassed with broad ditches. The street Hoch-street is faire and large, extending it selfe all the length of the Citie; and lying so, as from the gate at the one end, you may see the gate at the other end, and in this street is the Senate house. In the market place toward the West, is the statua of Erasmus, being made of wood, for the Spaniards brake downe that which was made of stone; and the inscription thereof witnesseth, that hee was borne at Roterodame, the

twenty eight of October, in the yeere 1467, and died at Bazel the twelfth of Iuly, in the yeere 1531. In New-Kirk-street, there is the house in vvhich Erasmus was borne, vvherein a Taylor dwelled at this time, and vpon the vvall thereof, these Ver∣ses are written:

AEdibus his natus, mundum decorauit Erasmus, Artibus ingenuis, Religione, side. The world, Erasmus in this poore house borne, With Arts, Religion, Faith, did much adorne.

The same Verses also vvere vvritten in the Flemmish tongue, and vpon the vvall vvas the picture of Erasmus. Vpon the same West side is the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow. The vvaters of Roterodam and Delph, being neere the sea are more vvholesome then the standing waters within land. Heere I lodged at an English-mans house; and paied for my supper tenne stiuers, for my breakfast two stiuers, and for beere betweene meales fiue stiuers: by which expence, compared vvith that of the Flemmish Innes, it is apparant that strangers in their rec∣konings, pay for the intemperate drinking of their Dutch companions.

From hence I went by sea three miles to Dort, in two houres space; to which City we might haue gone great part of the way by vvaggon, as farre as Helmund, but then * 1.49 we must needs haue crossed an Inland sea, for the City is seated in an Iland, hauing beene of old diuided from the continent of Holland, in a great floud. The forme of the City resembles a Galley, the length whereof lies from the East to the West. Wee landed vpon the North side lying vpon the sea, where there be two gates, but of no strength. On the East side is the New gate, Reydike, and beyond a narrow water, lye fenny grounds. On the South side, the ditch is more narrow, yet the sea ebbs and flowes into it, and vpon old walles of stone is a conuenient walking place. On this side is the gate Spey-port, and beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds. On the West side is the gate Feld-port, and a like walke vpon walles of stone, and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the sea. There is a great Church built of bricke, and couered with slate; being stately built vvith Arched cloysters, and there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated. From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat, and Wein-strat, lie windingly towards the North. Turning a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat, towards the South, lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece & Crosse-bow, and there by is a very pleasant groue; vpon the trees vvhereof certaine birds frequent, which we call Hearnes, vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle, and their fea∣thers being of great price, there is a great penalty set on them, that shall hurt or annoy those birds. There is a house vvhich retaines the name of the Emperor Charles the fift, and another house for coyning of money; for the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to coyne money at Dort, as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg. Betweene the faire streets, Reydike-strat and Wein-strat, is the Hauen for ships, to be passed ouer by bridges, and there is a market place, and the Senate house; vvhich hath a prospect into both these streets. The houses are higher built then other where in Holland, and seeme to be of greater Antiquity. This Citie by priuiledge is the staple of Rhenish vvines, vvhich are from hence carried to other Cities, so as no imposition being here paied for the same, the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelue stiuers, for which in other places they pay eighteene, or twenty stiuers. For three meales I paied heere thirty stiuers.

From hence I vvent by water to the States Campe, besieging Getrudenberg, and * 1.50 came thither in two houres space, but the vvindes being very tempestuous, wee saw a boat drowned before vs, out of which one man onely escaped by swimming, who seemed to me most wretched, in that hee ouer-liued his wife and all his children then drowned. The besieged City lies in the Prouince of Brabant; and the County of Buren, being the inheritance of the Prince of Orange, by right of his wife; and in this Month of Iune, it was yeelded to Count Maurice, the Spanish Army lying neere, but not being able to succour it.

The Sea lying vpon this part of Brabant, was of old firme land, ioined to the conti∣nent,

till many villages by diuers floods (and seuenteene Parishes at once by a famous flood) were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea, and for witnes of this calamity, diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other, appeare in this Sea, and according to the ebbing and flowing, more or lesse seene, doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent. And the Hollan∣ders say, that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed, as hereafter I shall shew in the due place.

From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg, I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate, and at midnight putting forth againe, failed in ten houres space to the I∣land Tarlot, and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome, where * 1.51 we landed. By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water, being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge, of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea. The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer; and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts, and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy. This City is strongly fortified, and is sented in Brabant, and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert, and it was gouerned by a garison of English, not in the Queenes, but in the States pay, as Ostend at that time was (whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money, wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay) and Sir Thomas Mor∣gan was at this time Gouernour of this City. At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard. Without the City on the West side, many akers of land were drowned, when the Prince of Orange (as I said) let in the waters to driue the Spani∣ards out of those parts, which from that day to this, could neuer be dried and gained a∣gaine. On this side I entered the City, where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke, which being added to the City almost of a round forme, make the whole City much like vnto a Lute. On this side were three strong rauelings, and vp∣pon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen, in the channell Forcemer, which going no further into the land, endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water, so as the ditches may alwaies be full. On the North side is the prison, not vnpleasant for situation, and the English House, and the House of the Gouernour; which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant. Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenberg∣port, which are both strongly fortified, the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne, whereof it hath the name, yet the channell being stopped, it seemes here a standing water, ra∣ther then a Riuer. Towards the East, the City is very strongly fortified, and there is the Gate Boskport, so called (as I thinke) of the word Bosco, which in the Italian tongue, sig∣nifies a wood: for on this side without the gates, were many woods and orchards, till they were destroied in the warre. On this side is another Raueling of great length, and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures, but somewhat couered with waters. And from hence wee might see Woudcastle, scarce three English miles distant, which was then possessed by the Spaniards. On the South side is a new fort, beyond a strong bulwarke, and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City. And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke, vnder the shade of trees; to the old castle, some mile di∣stant. On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds, as I said to be at Dort, vulgarly called Adherne, much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head, and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away. On this side also is the English Church, and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped, when hee besieged this City. There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place, and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West, siue rauelings run beyond the wals. The houses are built of bricke, and seeme to be built of old. The Church hath a very high steeple, whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges, and of foot by redde. All the Villages hereabouts, though liuing vnder the Spaniard, yet pay contribution to this Garrison, lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out, and spoile them. The Citizens liue of mannall arts, and the expences of the Garison.

From hence I sayled to Midleburge, and at one ebbe of the Sea, passed in seuen

houres space to Der-goese, and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren, a City of the Iland Walkern, belonging to Zealand, and I paid for my passage six stiuers. From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge, the houses whereof are stately * 1.52 built, and very high, especially the new City, and are all of bricke, as be the Ci∣ties of Holland, and as be the houses of Vlishing, but some of these are stately built of free stone, yet the streetes are somewhat narrow. Here I paid for my supper fiue sti∣uers in the English House, where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Mer∣chants and such gucsts as they inuite, yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there. The House lies in the street Longdels, and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there, yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City, and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein, perhaps out of feare, lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged, if they should all lie together. This City is the Staple of all Merchandise, excepting Rhenish wine, for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple. Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where, because they are free of impost in this place, and haue great impositions laid on them, being carried out to other Cities. The forme of the City is round, saue that on the East side, the buildings of the new City being vnperfected, made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone, though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren, I entered on this East side, by a very faire gate, called the New Gate, where the water falling into the Towne, passeth to the Burse, where the Merchants meet. There is a publike House for shooting, the wall on this side (as round about the City) is of stone, and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers. And this wall is double, vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches, many Houses are built. On the West side without the gates, almost halfe way to Vlishing, is Rammakins Castle, kept by English Souldiers, sent from Vlish∣ing to that purpose, being a place of great importance, because the channell going to Midleburge, runnes within the command of their Artillery. On this South side is the Hauen, and without the wals very faire pastures, to the vttermost part of the Iland. Also on this side is a new Hauen made for ships in the winter time, and the gate is called, Rammakins Port, of the said Castle. On the West side you may see Vlishing a mile off, and in a cleere day, the Downes of Kent in England. On this side within the wals is a round market place, and the Senate-house of anticke building, and two Gates cal∣led of the Cities to which they leade, Vlishing port, and Longe-ville port. On the North side is an Abbey, and pleasant walking, and another publike House for exercise of shooting. This populous City hath onely two Churches, either because the people being of many sects in Religion, and much occupied in trafficke, scarce the third part comes to Church, or else because the people being much increased by strangers, com∣ming to dwell in these parts, vpon the stopping of the passage to Antwerp in the ciuill warres, it is no wonder that the old Churches will not receiue them. The Citizens may at pleasure drownd all the fields about them. And this, one, and the chiefe Iland of Zealand, called Walkerne, containeth siue walled Cities, besides Villages; but the aire is reputed vnwholsome. Midleburge is the chiefe place of trafficke in Zealand, as Amsterdam in Holland.

From hence I went in a long Waggon couered with hoopes and cloth to Vlishing, a long mile; and paid for my passage two blankes. Ten English foot companies, one * 1.53 hundred and fifty in each company, vnder the gouernment of Sir Robert Sidney, kept this strong Towne for the Queene of England, and vnder her pay; being ingaged to her for money lent the States, and the ten Captaines in course watched each third night. The City is little and of a round forme, but very strong. It hath a narrow Sea on the West side, where, vpon the last confines of Zealand and the vnited Prouinces, is one of the three passages (whereof I formerly spake) to the Maine Sea. On this side is the Mountaine of the Mill, where the Souldiers watch nightly, and beyond the Mountaine is a damme to let in the Sea at pleasure. On the South. side is the Gate Waterport, strongly fortified, lying vpon the Inland Sea. On this side towards the North, the Sea flowing into the Towne, maketh one Hauen, and towards the East

another, and diuideth the City into three parts, the Old, the New, and the Middle, whereof any one being taken by the enemy, yet the other are fortified for defence. Be∣yond these Hauens or channels, is a Mountaine lying ouer the City, vpon which the Souldiers kept guards day and night, as they did likewise vpon the Bridge diuiding the Cities, and vpon other lower hils, at all the gates of the City, and in prayer time, at the doore of the English Church. This Church is on the East side, and is common to the English and Dutch at diuers houres. Betweene the high mountaine & this Church, was the Gouernours House, belonging of old to the Counts of Zealand, and the pub∣like house for exercise of shooting, but lesse pleasant then the like houses are in other Cities. On the same East side lie two waies, one to Rammakins Castle, the other to Midle∣burge. On the North side the Downes of Kent in England may easily be seene, and there is the Hospitall or Gast-house for sicke people, and for sicke and maimed souldi∣ers, of which a Mountaine thereby hath the name. On this and the East sides, are two Mils to retaine the water when the Sea ebs, that the ditches round about may alwaies be filled, and if need be to ouerflow the fields. These ditches are commonly a pikes depth, and can by no art or enemy be dried. The Citizens want good water, hauing no wels, nor any fresh water, but raine water kept in Cesternes. The foresaid number of Souldiers in the Garrison was not sufficient to master the Citizens, onely their cou∣ragious minds dispising death, kept the Citizens in such awe, as they durst not attempt to recouer their liberty by force, which they hoped to obtaine by peaceable meanes, and the vnited Prouinces depended vpon the opinion of the Queenes aid, perhaps more then vpon the aid it selfe, so as either failing, they were like to be a prey to the Spa∣niards. Since that time I heard the Garison was diminished, so as it seemes the English had lesse strength to keepe it, if the States changing their minds, should attempt to surprise it. Being inuited by my English friends, I spent nothing in this City.

Hence I returned to Midleburge on foot, vpon a paued causcy, hauing on each side rich corne fields, and faire pastures, with many orchards; and in the mid-way a Gentleman called Aldegondey, famous for his wisdome, hath his Castle, wherein he dwelt. At Midleburge I paid six stiuers for my supper, and two for my bed, and pro∣uiding victuals to carry by Sea, I paid for a loyne of mutton twenty foure stiuers, as also for my washing seuen stiuers, and staying in the Towne two daies, I spent in all foure guldens and foure stiuers.

I tooke ship at ten in the morning; and betweene the Iland Der-goese, and the Inland Sea, called Zurechsea, I saw two Towers of Villages swallowed in the foresaid deluge, and sayling by the Iland Plate, and the Iland of Brill, we passed certaine booyes dire∣cting to find the channell. The next day in the afternoone, I landed at Roterodam in Holland, and paid ten stiuers for my passage. Thence I passed in two houres space by boat to Delph, and paid two stiuers for my passage. Thence in two houres space I pas∣sed to the Hage by Waggon, and paid for my passage two stiuers; for which iourney one man alone may hire a Waggon for seuen stiuers.

At the Hage Count Maurice with his mother in law the Countesse of Orange (born * 1.54 of the Noble Family of the Chastillons in France) and the Generall States of the vnited Prouinces, and Princes Ambassadours, haue their residence, which made me desirous to stay here a while, to which purpose I hired a chamber, for which, for my bed, sheets, tableclothes, towels, and dressing of my meat, I paid twenty fiue stiuers weekely. I bought my owne meat, and liuing priuatly with as much frugality as conueniently I might, I spent by the weeke no more then fiue guldens and a halfe, though all things were in this place extraordinarily deere. My beere in one weeke came to foureteene stiuers, and among other things bought, I paid for a quarter of lambe thirty stiuers, for a Hen seuen stiuers, for a Pigeon foure stiuers, for a Rabet three stiuers. I remem∣ber not to haue seene a more pleasant village then this: great part of the houses are fairely built of bricke, though many of them in by-streetes be couered with thatch, and some few are stately built of free-stone. The village hath the forme of a Crosse, and vpon the East side comming in from Leyden, there is a most pleasant Groue, with ma∣ny wild walkes like a maze, and neerer the houses is another very pleasant walke, set

round about with willowes. Here is the publike house for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow, which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine, where they vse to spread linnen clothes in the sunne, and here certaine rowes of trees being planted; yeeld a pleasant shade to them that walke therein. One of the said rowes of trees called Vinareberg, leades to an old Castle of the Counts of Holland, compassed with a drie ditch, in which Count Maurice dwelt, but in the great Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small wares. Vpon the wals of the said Castle, and vpon the windowes of the Church, these words were written in latine.

To Charles the fifth, &c. To the most inuincible Caesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour, the victorious desender of the Catholike Religion, and Augustus. The Prouisors of this House haue placed this, in the yeere 1547.

Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth, kneeling on his knees. In the window were painted the Armes of all the Knights of the golden Fleece. The Histories of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be wonderfull, in that the top of the Hall is not ioined with beames, but with arches: but for my part I obserued no great magnificence in the worke. The second of the foresaid rowes of trees, called Furholt, leads to a gentlemans house, the fairest & most stately built in this Village. In the mid∣dest of the Hage lies the market place, and the Church. On the South side is the water that leader to Delph: and round about on all sides without the Village, are faire pa∣stures, excepting the North-side, where the sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village. In the Church is a Monument of Count Albertus, Duke of Bauria, and ano∣ther of a Count of Hanaw, with diuers others, which I omit, as hauing no antiquity or magnificence.

While I staied at the Hage, I walked out in halfe an houres space to the village Laus∣dune, where I saw a wonderfull monument, the History whereof printed in a paper, * 1.55 the Earle of Leicester (as they said) had carried with him into England, leauing onely the same in written hand, the coppy whereof I will set downe, first remembring that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall, in which the children (whereof I shall speak) were baptized.

The manuscript was in latine a followeth,

En tibi monstrosum nimis & memorabile factum, Quale nec a Mundi conditione datum. Haec lege, mox animo stupefactus lector abibis. So strange and monstrous thing I tell, As from the worlds frame nere befell, He parts amasde that markes it well.

The rest in latine is thus englished;

Margaret wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge, daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand, sifter to William King of the Romans, and Caesar, or Gouermour of the Empire. This most noble Countesse being about forty two yeeres old, the very day of preparation called Paraseene, about nine of the clocke, in the yeere 1276. * 1.56 brought forth at one birth three hundred sixty fiue children, which being baptized in two basens of brasse, by Guido suffragan of Vtretcht, all the males were called Iohn, and all the females Elizabeth; but all of them together with the mother, died in one and the same day, and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune: and this happened to her, in that a poore woman bearing in her armes two twinnes, the Countesse won∣dering at it, said shee could not haue them both by one man, and so reiected her with scorne, whereupon the woman sore troubled, wished that the Countesse might haue as many childen at a birth, as there be daies in the whole yeere; which besides the course of nature, by miracle fell out, as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory, out of old Chronicles, as well written as printed. Almighty God must be in this beheld and honoured, and extolled with praises for euer and euer. Amen.

From the Hage, my selfe and other consorts hired a Waggon for two guldens, and passed to Leyden, hauing on both sides faire pastures, fruitfull corne fields, and some pleasant groues.

CHAP. V. Of my iourney out of the vnited Prouinces, by the Sea coast, to Stode and Lubeck in Germany. Of my sauing to Denmarke, and thence to Dantzk in Prussen, and my iourney through Poland to Padoua in Italy.

IN the end of the Month of Iune, and the yeere 1593: hauing now dispatched by Letters, all my businesse in * 1.57 England, and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces, I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy: and ha∣uing already passed the two waies of Germany, that by Aug∣spurge, and the other by the Sweitzers, and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres, the com∣mon desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice, but to see as many new Countries as their course will per∣mit; made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland, and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria. In which iourney, howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way, and was like to indure many troubles; yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde. Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht, and paied for my part twelue stiuers. Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres, by the village Alpha, where the Spaniards incamped, when they besieged Leyden; and by a little Towne called Gonda, hauing on both sides faire pastures, but somewhat ouer flowed, and ditches set with willowes; and we came to a little village, where the waggoner gaue his horses meat. Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe, hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields, and like ditches set with willowes, and so we came to Vtrecht. But a mile and a halfe before we came thither, we passed out of the Territory of Holland, and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht, which is one of the vnited Prouinces. Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse, set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders. I had almost forgotten the little City Werden, which they shewed vs by the way, and told vs, that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem, which at that time I had not seene, and therefore mention this from their report, rather then from my iudge∣ment.

The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east, by East, to North-west by West, and vpon the end at South-east by East, is the gate Weitefraw, where the Rheine * 1.58 enters the City. At the other end, Noth-west by West, are the ruines of an old Castle, which the Spaniards kept before the wars, to bridle the City: and there be two gates, Saint Katherine-port, and Wert-port, each of them hauing their suburbes. On the South-west side are walles of earth, but the ditches were almost dry. On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port, and there bee three strong Rauelings, one defending the other. On this side bee two streets fairer then the rest, called New-graft, and Altkirkhoffe; and there is a pleasant walke well shaded with trees, vpon the banke of the Riuer. In the midst of the City is the Cathedrall Church, hauing a faire Tower, and a Bell, which they report to be of eighteene thousand pounds weight Neere to the same is the Bishops Pallace, wherein the Bishops dwelt before the vnion of the Prouinces; but at this time there dwelled the Countesse of Meurs, whose husband died in these warres. In the same part lie the market place, and the Senate house. The houses of the City are of bricke, and fairely built, but lose much of their beautie by being couered on the outside with boords, and they seeme to haue more antiquitic, then the buildings of Holland. There be thirty Churches, but onely three are vsed for diuine seruice. In Saint Maries Church, (which as I remember is the Cathedrall Church) these verses are written vpon a piller.

Accipe posteritas quod per tua secula narres, Taurinis culibus fundo solidata columna est.

Posterity heare this, and to your children tell, Bull hydes beare vp this piller from the lowest hell.

Vpon a second piller this is written in Latine.

A Frison killed the Bishop because hee had learned of him, being drunke, and betrayed by his sonne, the Art to stop a gulfe in this place, the yeere 1099.

Vpon a third piller this is written in Latine:

The Emperour Henry the fourth, built this Church to our Lady, because hee had pulled downe another Church at Milane, dedicated to her.

And to my vnderstanding, they shewed me at this time manifest signes of the afore∣said gulfe, which these inscriptions witnesse to haue beene in this place. Heere I paied for my supper twenty stiuers, and for my breakefast six stiuers.

From hence I went to Amsterdam, fiue miles in three houres space, and paied for my passage in the waggon ten stiuers. For halfe the way on both sides wee had faire pastures, and saw many strong Castles belonging to Gentlemen. Neere Vtrecht, at the passage of a riuer each man paid a Doight, and before wee came to the halfe way, we passed the confines of this Bishopricke, and entred the County of Holland. Then in the space of two houres and a halfe, we came to Amsterdam, hauing in our way on both sides faire pastures.

On Friday in the beginning of the Month of Iuly, at fiue a clocke in the euening, I tooke ship, vpon the Mast whereof was a garland of Roses, because the master of this ship then wooed his wife, which ceremony the Hollanders vsed. And the sea being calme, wee passed eight miles to Enchusen, where wee cast anchor. By the way wee passed a shole, where our sterne struck twise vpon the sand, not without feare of greater mischiese. On Saturday we'sayeld betweene West Freesland vpon our right hands towards the East, and Holland vpon our left hands towards the West, and af∣ter tenne miles sayling, came to the Iland Fly, which being of small compasse, and * 1.59 consisting of sandy hils, hath two villages in it. From hence they reckon twenty eight miles by sea to Hamburg in Germany, whether we purposed to goe. Assoone as wee cast anchor here, the Master of our ship went aboard the Admirall of certaine ships, which vsed to lie here, to guard this mouth of the sea, with whom hee spake concer∣ning our passage to Hamburg, and deliuered him Letters, commanding that our ship should haue a man of war to wast it. This Admirall lay continually in this harbour, to guard this passage into the sea, and he commanded nine ships, which were vpon all occasions to wast the Hollanders to Hamburg, and defend them from the Dunkirkers, and all Pirats. But at this time there was not one of these men of warre in the har∣bour, and the Admirall himselfe might not goe forth. So as for this cause, and for the tempestious weather, wee staied here all Sunday. But vpon Monday, the winde being faire for vs, and contrary for the men of warre that were to come in, so that lo∣sing this winde, we must haue expected (not without great irkesomnesse) a second winde to bring in some of these men of warre, and a third winde to carry vs on our iourney: the Master of our ship (carrying sixe great Peeces, and hauing some tenne Muskets) did associate himselfe with seuen other little ships, (hauing only Pikes and swords) and so more boldly then wisely resolued to passe to Hamburg without any man of warre.

This Monday morning we hoysed saile, but being calmed at noone, we cast anchor between the Fly, on our left hand toward the West, and another little Iland Shelling on our right hand towards the East: and lying here, wee might see two little barkes, ho∣uering vp and downe, which wee thought to be Fisher-men, and nothing lesse then Pirats of Dunkirke. Here till euening we were tossed by the waues, which vse to bee more violent vpon the coast; but a faire winde then arising, all our shippes gladly weighed anchor. At which time it happened that the anchor of our ship brake, so as our consorts went on, but our Master, according to the nauall discipline, not to put to sea with one anchor, returned backe to the harbour of the Fly, there to buy a new anchor, all of vs foolishly cursing our fortune and the starres. On Tuesday morning while wee sadly walked on the shoare, vvee might see our consorts comming backe

with torne sailes, and dead men, and quarters of men, lying on the hatches. We be∣holding this with great astonishment, tooke boat to board them, and demanding the newes, they told vs that the little barks we saw the day before vvere Dunkirkers, hauing in each of them eighty Souldiers, and some few great Peeces, and that they had taken them, & spoiled their ships, of their chiefe & lightest goods, and had carried away pri∣soners to Dunkirk all the passengers & chief Marriners, after they had first wrung their foreheads with twined ropes, & with many horrible tortures, forced them to confesse what money they had presently, & what they could procure for ransom. Further, with mourning voice they told vs, that the Pirats inquired much after our ship, saying that was it the bride, with whom they meant to dance, cursing it to be destroyed with a thousand tuns of diuels, & swearing that if they had foreseene our escape, they would haue assailed vs by day, while we rode at anchor. They added, that they had left no goods, but those they could not carry for weight, and had changed their ragged shirts and apparell with the poore Marriners. And indeed they had iust cause to bewaile the escape of our shippe, being laded with many chests of Spanish Ryalls, whereof they were not ignorant, vsing to haue their spies in such places, who for a share in the booty, would haue betrayed their very brothers. As we had iust cause to praise al∣mighty God, who had thus deliuered vs out of the lawes of death, so had wee much more cause to bewaile our rashnesse, yea and our wickednesse, that we had striuen, yea and repined against his diuine prouidence, which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name. In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers, for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers.

On Wednesday we had a most faire winde, but the terrour of our last escape, made vs stay in the harbour. In the euening I went to lodge in the village, and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed, and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish, sold for a very small price.

Since this iourney by Sea, (had besides our expectation) proued so difficult, my selfe, though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany, yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way, did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land, with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts; suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships, and to go by land; at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed, but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly, they were well pacified.

My selfe and nine consorts in my company, hired a boat for thirty stiuers, each man paying three stiuers: and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space, wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland, passing the aforesaid Inland sea. And the same day hiring a boat, for which each man paied six stiuers: wee passed a mile to the City Froniker, where is an Vniuersity, and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City, we passed two miles further, to Lewerden, where we lodged, and I paied for my supper ten stiuers. The next morning, being Friday, wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam, and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers. Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke, to saile from West Freesland, one of the vnited Prouinces, into East Freesland, a Prouince of the German Empire: but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor, to expect the floud; and lying there, we heard from the land great noise, barking of dogs, cries of men, and sounding of bells, which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning, to spoile the Peasants. All the next day wee sailed, and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre, (whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea, to guard the friends of the States,) and early the next morning being Sunday, wee set saile, and by the rising of the sunne, landed in the Iland of Rotermere (which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea, and hath the maine Sea on the other side,) whence soone after we parted, and were put on land in East Freesland, a Prouince of the Empire, and passing one mile on foot, came to the City of Emden.

I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea, and these

vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men, to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not; which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt, that is, the hunting, of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs. For my passage from Doc∣kam to Emden I paid ten stiuers, and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers, though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine: and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers.

In our iourney to Stode, the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles, to the village Detrem, vpon the confines of the county of Emden, passing through fruit∣full corne fields, and faire meadowes; and being eight in the Waggon, we all paid fif∣teene stiuers for the same. From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields, to the village Open, and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers, and our Waggon was driuen by a woman. Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle, and each man paid for his supper seuen groates. By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath, to Oldenburg, and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon. They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons, like to the gallo way nags of Scotland. The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space, through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake, and came to a Village; where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers. After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath, and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst, where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle, though it be a poore Village: and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count, and for our Waggon ten stiuers. The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures, and in three houres space came to Breme, where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats, and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings. From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields, yeelding some little corne, and thicke woods, and in sixe houres space came to a poore house; where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings. Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole: and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder, paid foure lubecke shillings for the same: but all that goe to study in Vniuersities, or be no Merchants, are free from this impo∣sition. After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd, where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings. The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen, wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake, and came to Stode, where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings. At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shil∣lings and a halfe, and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine, halfe a doller. I brief∣ly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany, because I formerly discribed the same.

The one and twenty of Iuly, I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge, and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings, for my supper foure, and one for my bed. Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space, through wild fenny fields, woods of oake, and some few fields of corne, and came to the Village Altslow, seated in a bogge, whereof it hath the name; where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe. Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy, yet strange and true: At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke, we found a dogge that fol∣lowed vs, and some passengers of credit assured mee, that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate, and euery day without intermission, watching the first Coach that came forth, had followed the same to this village Altslow, being the bayting place at noone, and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate, with another Coach comming from Lubecke, for Coaches passe daily betweene those Cities.

After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres space, through hils more thicke with woods, but in many places bearing good corne, and came to Lubecke. For my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke shillings, and this night for my sup∣per and bed, I paid sixe lubecke shillings. Here I bought the foureteenth Booke of Amadis de Gaule, in the Dutch tongue, to practise the same: for these Bookes are most eloquently translated into the Dutch, and fit to teach familiar language; and for this

Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings, and for the binding foure; and for a Map of Europe to guide me in my iourney, I paid foureteene lubecke shillings: Also I paid for a measure of Rhenish wine fiue lubecke shillings, and as much for a measure of Spa∣nish wine. From Lubcke I passed two miles in three houres space, through fruitfull hils of corne, and some woods of oake to the village Tremuren, and paid for my coach the fourth part of a Doller (which notwithstanding vseth to be hired for fiue lubecke shillings) and for my supper I paid foure lubecke shillings. I formerly shewed that this village is the Hauen, where the great ships vse to be vnladed, and from thence to be carried vpto lie at Lubecke in the winter.

Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke, vpon the Balticke Sea, so called, because it is compassed by the Land, as it were with a girdle. This sea doth not at all ebbe and flow, or very little, after it hath passed in by the streight of Denmarke, being more then twenty foure miles long, so as vpon the shoares of Prussen, Muscaw, and Suetia, this sea seemes little to be moued, and many times is frozen with ice, from the shore farre into the sea; and the waues thereof once stirred with the winds, are very high, neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as otherwhere, so as the ships sayling therein, doe sinke deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean, as manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships aboue water when they come out of this sea, and enter the said Ocean. And this will not seeme strange to any, who haue seene an egge put into salt pits, and how it swimmes, being borne vp with the salt water. The Master of the Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke, gaue me beere for foure lubeck shillings; for which the Dutchmen and Danes drinking more largely, paid but one lubecke shil∣ling more, and euery man had prouided victuals for himselfe. I paid for my passage twenty foure lubecke shillings, and gaue foure to the marriners. From Lubecke they reckon twenty foure miles to Falsterboaden, and from thence seuen miles to Coppen∣hagen, so called as the Hauen of Merchants. We left vpon our lefthand towards the South, a little Iland called Munde, and (as I remember) the third day of August, landed at Drakesholme, being one mile from Coppenhagen, whether I passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren corne fields; and neere the City I passed ouer the * 1.60 Hauen from one Iland to another. I paid for my Waggon three lubecke shillings.

At our entrance of the City, on the East-side, is the Kings Castle, where the Court lies, especially in winter time. On this side, the City lies vpon the sea, and there is the said Hauen, as likewise on the North-side the sea is little distant from the City. When I entered the gates, the guard of souldiers examined me strictly, and the common people, as if they had neuer seene a stranger before, shouted at mee after a barba∣rous fashion; among which people were many marriners, which are commonly more rude in such occasions, and in all conuersation. The City is of a round forme, in which, or in the Kings Castle, I obserued no beauty or magnificence. The Castle is built of free-stone in a quadrangle. The City is built of timber and clay; and it hath a faire market place, and is reasonably well fortified. Here I paid for three meales and breakefast eight lubecke shillings, and as much for beere. The King at this time lay at Roschild, purposing shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Holst, where he had appoin∣ted a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge, to receiue their homage there, which vp∣pon * 1.61 old piuiledges they had refused to doe vnto him in Denmarke.

Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space, through a wild hilly Country, to Roschild, so called of the Kings Fountaine; and my selfe and one companion paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon: and though it were the moneth of August, yet the wind blowing strong from the North, and from the Sea, I was very cold, as if it had beene then winter. Roschild hath a Bishop, and though it be not walled, hath the title of a City; but well deserues to be numbred among faire and pleasant Villa∣ges. Here they shew a whet stone, which Albrecht King of Suetia, sent to Margaret Queene of Denmarke, despising her as a woman, and in scoffe bidding her to whet her swords therewith: but this Queene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre, and so held him till death. Here I paid seuen Danish shillings for my supper. In the chan∣cell of the Church is a monument of blacke and white stone for this Queene Mar∣garet

and her daughter, and the Danes so reuerence this Queene, as they haue here to shew the apparell she vsed to weare. In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings, whereof one erected by Frederick, for Christianus his father, is of blacke Marble and Alablaster, curiously carued, hauing his statua kneeling before a Crucifix, and hung round about with sixteene blacke flags, and one red.

Hauing seene the King and the Courtiers, my selfe and my companion next day returned to Coppenhagen, each of vs paying for the waggon tenne Lubeck shillings: and here I paid for my supper six Lubeck shillings, and three for beere.

From hence I passed by sea, foure miles in fiue houres space, to Elsinure, and paied for my passage eight Lubeck shillings, and for my supper eight Danish shillings. And because I was to returne hither, to take ship for Dantzke, I passed the next morning three miles in foure houres space; through Hils of corne but somewhat barren, and woods of Beech, to Fredericksburg, and hauing but one companion with mee, wee paied for our waggon thither, and so to Coppenhagen, each of vs twenty two Lubeck * 1.62 shillings. Here the King hath a Pallace, and a little Parke walled in, where (among other forraine beasts) were kept some fallow Deare, transported hither out of England, the twenty foure yeere of Queene Elizabeths raigne. I paied for my dinner foure Da∣nish shillings, and as much for beere.

In the afternoone we passed fiue miles in six houres, through barren fields of corne, and groues of Beech and hasel-nuts, to Cappenhagen, and by the way we saw a Crosse, set vp in memory of a waggoner, who hauing drunke too much, droue his waggon so fast, as hee ouerturned it on the side of a Hil, and himselfe broke his necke. The waggoners haue an appointed place at Coppenhagen, where they haue a stable for their horses for two Danish shillings a night, but themselues buy hay and oates. And the next day by noone, they must return to their dwellings, though they go empty, when no passengers are to be found.

From hence, my selfe and one companion, hired a waggon for twelue Lubeck shillings each of vs, to Elsinure, being fiue miles, whither we came in fiue houres, fetch∣ing many circuits vpon the sea coasts.

This is a poore village, but much frequented by sea-faring men, by reason of the straight sea, called the Sownd; where the King of Denmark hath laid so great impositiō * 1.63 vpon ships and goods comming out of the Balticke sea, or brought into the same, as this sole profit passeth all the reuenewes of his Kingdome. In this village a strong Ca∣stle called Croneburg lyeth vpon the mouth of the Straight, to which on the other side of this Narrow sea, in the Kingdome of Norway, another Castle is opposite, called Elsburg, and these Castles keepe the Straight, that no ship can passe into the Baltick sea, or out of it, hauing not first paied these impositions. They say there is another passage between two Ilands (for all the Kingdom of Denmark consists of little Ilands) but the same is forbidden vpon penalty of confiscation of all the goods. And they report that three shippes in a darke fog passed this straight without paying any thing; but after, this being made knowne to the Kings ministers, at the returne of the said ships all their goods were confiscated. In respect of the Danes scrupulous and iea∣lous nature, I did with great difficulty, (putting on a Merchants habite, and giuing a greater reward then the fauour deserued,) obtaine to enter Croneburg Castle, which was built foure square, and hath only one gate on the East side, where it lies vpon the straight. Aboue this gate is a chamber in which the King vseth to eat, and two cham∣bers wherein the King and Queene lie apart. Vnder the fortification of the Castle round about, are stables for horses, and some roomes for like purposes. On the South∣side towards the Baltick sea, is the largest roade for ships. And vpon this side is the prison, and aboue it a short gallery. On the West side towards the village is the Church of the Castle, & aboue it a very faire gallery, in which the King vseth to feast at solemne times. On the North side is the prospect partly vpon the Iland, and partly vpon the Narrow sea, which reacheth twenty foure miles to the German Ocean. And because great store of ships passe this way in great Fleets, of a hundreth more or lesse together: this prospect is most pleasant to all men, but most of all to the King, see∣ing

so many shippes, whereof not one shall passe, without adding somewhat to his treasure. On this side lie two chambers, which are called the King of Scotland his chambers, euer since his Maiesty lodged there, when he wooed and married his Queene. The hangings thereof were of redde cloch, and the chaires and stooles couered with the same, but they said that the rich furniture was laid vp in the Kings absence. The Hauen will receiue great number of shippes, and it hath Croneburge Castle on the North side, the Castle of Elsburg on the East side, and Zealand (the chiefe Iland of the Kingdome) on the West side, and the Iland Wheen on the South side.

To which Iland the long straight or narrow sea lies opposite towards the North, leading into the German Ocean. This Iland Wheen is a mile long, and not altogether so broad, hauing onely one groue in it. This solitary place, King Fredrick, Father to Christianus now raigning, gaue to a Gentleman called Tugo-Brahe for his dwelling, who being a famous Astronomer liued here solitarily at this time, & was said to haue some Church liuings for his maintenance, and to liue vnmarried, but keeping a Con∣cubine, of whom he had many children, & the reason of his so liuing, was thought to be this; because his nose hauing been cut off in a quarrell, when he studied in an Vni∣uersitiy of Germany, he knew himselfe thereby disabled to marry any Gentlewoman of his own quality. It was also said that the gentlemen lesse respected him for liuing in that sort, and did not acknowledge his sonnes for Gentlemen. King Frederick also gaue this learned Gentleman of his free gift, many and very faire Astronomicall instruments, and he liuing in a pleasant Iland, wherein no man dwelt but his family, wanted no pleasure which a contemplatiue man could desire. Besides the aforesaid instruments, this Gentleman had a very faire Library, full of excellent bookes, and a like faire still-house. Besides not farre from his house, he had a little round house of great beauty, in which he did exercise his speculation, the couer thereof being to bee remoued at pleasure, so as lying with his face vpward, he might in the night time fully behold the Starres, or any of them. In this little house all famous Astronomers vvere painted, and the following Verses were added, each to the picture, to which they belong.

Sulueta Heroes: vetus O Timochare salue, AEther is ante alios ause subire polos. God saue ye worthies: old Timocherus I greet thee, more then many venturous, To mount the Starres and shew them vnto vs. Tu quo{que} demensus Solis Lunae{que} recursus, Hipparche, & quot quot sidera Olympus habet. And thou Hipparchus, thou didst measure euen, The course of Sun, Moone, and all Starres of heauen Antiquos superare volens, Ptolomee labores, Orbibus & numeris promptius astra locas. Ptolomy, thou to passe old ages reach, The Numbers and the Orbes dost better teach. Emendare aliquid satis Albategne studebas, Syderaconatus post habuere tuos. Thou Albategnus somewhat yet to mend Didst striue, but wert preuented by thine end. Quod labor & studium reliquis, tibi contulit Aurum Alphonse, vt tantis annumerere viris. These got by paines and study, thou by gold Alphonsus, with such men to be inrol'd. Curriculis tritis diffise Copernice, terram Innitam, astriferum flectere cogis iter. Copernicus, thou old said sawes didst doubt, Thou mak'st heauen stand, and earth turne round about.

In the best place this Gentleman Tugo Brahe had set his owne picture, with the following Verses;

Quaesitis veterum & proprijs, normoe astra subegi, Quantiid: Iudictum posteritatis eret. With old Rules and my owne, the Starres I place, Which after-times, as it deserues, shall grace.

Many Instruments are there placed by him, which himselfe inuented, and hee hath made a solemne dedication of the house to the ages to come, with earnest prayers that they will not pull downe this Monument.

The Danes thinke this Iland Wheen to be of such importance, as they haue an idle fable, that a King of England should offer for the possession of it, as much scarlet cloth as would couer the same, with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth. Others tell a fable of like credit, that it was once sold to a Merchant, whom they scoffed when he came to take possession, bidding him take away the earth he had bought. The great reuenew exacted in this straight, hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables. And in truth, if either the King of Suetia, or the free City of Lubeck, had the possession of this Iland, and were fortified therein, they might easily command this passage, and extort what they list, from the Merchants passing that way, and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning; but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince, whose Territories lie out of the Sound, the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles. But lest I should bee as foolish as they, I returne to my purpose. And first giue me leaue to mention, that there lies a City not farre distant, in the Kingdome of Norway, which is called London, as the chiefe City in England is called.

Vpon Sunday, the twenty six of August, in the yeere 1593, I tooke an English * 1.64 ship heere, to saile into Prussen, hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings, thirty egges for six shillings, and some few pots of Spanish wine, for forty two Danish shillings, with some other small prouisions. From Elsi∣nure to Dantzk, they reckon eighty English miles. Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour, wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes, and yet hauing both a forewind, which sometimes happens vpon the shoare, as marriners know. For of these two contrary winds, the one is airy, which holds when you are gone into the maine, the other is from the earth, and in short time faileth at the very shore: which euent we presently saw with our eyes, one of the ships going fairely on his course, the other casting anchor. The English ship in which I went, was called the Antilope, being of one hundred fifty tuns, or thereabouts, and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof, who shewed me manifest signes, where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning; the first whereof passed into the pumpe, and rent it, but comming to the water, was by the nature thereof carried vpward, and comming out at the top of the pumpe, made two little holes; then passing to the great Mast, rent it, and made a great crany therein, from the hatches to the top. The second struck the top of the said maine Mast, and againe rent it, in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile, till wee might come to Dantzk, where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate. The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea, some fiue miles with a scant winde, and cast anchor neere Copenhagen. With a faire winde and good gaile, Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre. On Monday early, wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden. On Tuesday early, wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm, and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places, and there sounding with our plummet, sand of Amber stuck thereunto. The same day by noone, wee sayled the length of that Iland; and vpon Wednesday, by three of the clocke in the morning, hauing sayled thirty miles, we passed by Rose-head, being a Promentory 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Dantzk.

On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning, hauing sayled eighteene miles, we came to a Land called Rettell, and entered the Port of Meluin, where the wa∣ter was scarce two fadome deepe, our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe: the entry

was narrow, and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales & sands; and the wea∣ther being calme, we were drawne in by a boate with Oares. In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in, by the casting and weighing of Anchors, with great labour, and flow riddance of way. From Kettell we passed ten miles, and came to the Port of Mel∣uin. * 1.65 Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer, on the right hand towards the West, we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore, where it hath a hauen, but not so safe as this: and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigs∣berg, the Court of the Duke of Prussen. The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe, but our ship passed through the mud, like a plow vpon land. This port is a little di∣stant from the City, on the North-side, where we entered by a faire large street, called Martgasse, lying thence towards the South. Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights, but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg, Master of the said order, part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires, with title of Duke, vnder homage to the King of Poland, with condition that for want of heire male, it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland; and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome: but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities, acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector, for which cause they giue him many customes, and permit his Officer to abide in the City, ard receiue the same. Meluin is a little and faire City lately com∣passed with new wals, and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants, hauing their staple in the same. They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale; and he that paies for two meales in the day, may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales, at plea∣sure, without paying any thing. The same euening we landed at Meluin, our Marri∣ners staying in the ship, entertained other English Marriners comming aboard; and according to their custome, giuing them a peece when they departed: it happened that the peece being of iron, brake; and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle, and rent all the prow of the ship. The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher, though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion: so that how so euer they excused in, by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue, yet I thought them not free of blame in this point; because our Merchants further distant in Asia, and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire, found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers. Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place (Italy excepted) that our Merchants wanted Preachers, where they held their staples.

From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke, and we being onely two con∣forts; * 1.66 paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach. In the morning we went sixe miles, and by the way passed the Riuer Begot, comming out of the riuer Vistula, where our Coach∣man paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme. Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland, and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields, and rich medowes, and pastures, in a Countrey abounding with townes and Villages, we dined in a Village where we two by couenant paying for our coach∣man, spent each of vs eigh grosh. In the afternoone we passed the rest of the way, one mile in the-Kings territory, where we passed another damme of the riuer Vistula, and three miles to Dantzke in the territory of the same City. The King of Poland at this time was at the Port of Dantzke, called Der Mind, an English mile from the City, ex∣pecting a wind to sayle into his Kingdome of Suecin, and had with him his Queene, and many Ladies and Courtiers. Therefore desirous to see the King and the Queene, with their traine? I walked the next morning to this Port, which is barred with a mountaine of sand, so as the ships must vnlade in the roade, before they can enter this Hauen; neither is any village built there, but onely one Inne, in which the King 〈◊〉〈◊〉 with all his traine: but beyond the water there is a strong Castle of a round sonne. From hence after dinner I returned on foot to Dantzke. The next day the King had a good wind, but before this (as those of the Romish religion are very superstitious) the King and the Queen (being of the house of Austria) while sometimes they thought Munday, sometimes Friday, to be vnlucky daies, had lost many faire winds. The Ci∣ty

of Dantzke is a very faire City, and howsoeuer few ages past, they had not any houses built of stone, yet at this time many were built of free-stone, and the rest of bricke, with great beauty and magnificence, being sixe or seuen roofes high. And they had publike gardens for sports, banquets, and exercises, which are very pleasant. They haue a very faire Senate-house, called Hoff, that is, the Court; and the Citizens haue a strange fashion, to put off their hats when they passe by it. From the market place be∣ing round (in which the King of Poland lodged some daies) to the gate Hochethore (be∣ing richly engraued) lieth a very faire street called Longgasse) and leads vp towards the Mountaines hanging ouer the City. The famous Riuer Vistula doth not enter the City, but passeth by it on the East-side, and running towards the North, fals into the Balticke sea, But a little brook enters the City on the South-side, and runnes through it towards the North. There is a faire water conduit, vulgarly called Wasserkunst, where by a mill the waters are drawne vp into a cesterne, from whence they are carried by pipes into all the streetes and priuate houses; besides that many Citizens haue their priuat wels. The aforesaid brooke driues many mils, among which, one for the grin∣ding of corne, belongs to the Senate, and it hath eighteene roomes, and bringeth into the publike treasure euery houre a gold gulden, and another without any helpe of hands, saweth boords, hauing an iron wheele, which doth not onely driue the saw, but hooketh in, and turneth the boords to the saw. The Garners for laying vp of corne called speiker, are very faire, and very many lying together, in which the Citizens lay vp corne brought out of Poland, and according to the wants of Europe, carry it into many kingdomes, and many times relieue fruitfull Prouinces in time of casual dearth. The Queene of Poland came in a disguifed habit to see these garners: and they haue a law that no man may carry fire or a lighted candle into them. In the Church called Parkirk, the resurrection of our Lord is painted with great art, and the same againe is figured vnder a globe of glasse, which kinde of painting is here in vse. This City com∣passed with one wall, containes three Cities, gouerned by three Senates, out of which one chiefe Senate is gathered to gouerne the whole City; and these three Cities are called Furstat, that is, the fore City, and Alistat, that is, the old City, and Reichstat, that is, the Empires City. The whole-City vnited, lies in length from the South to the North, and vpon the South-side is Furstat, where the foresaid brooke diuiding the Ci∣ty doth enter, and there is the aforesaid water conduit, and without the wals a faire vil∣lage or suburbe called Scotland, in which there is a sanctuary, which offenders may en∣ter, paying a gulden to the Bishop; and none but Artificers, & for the most part shoo∣makers, d well in this suburbe. On this side, and towards the East and North, without the wals, lie plaine fields, which may be drowned at pleasure. Vpon the East-side with∣in the wals, are the aforesaid garners for corne. On the West-side without the wals, great mountaines hang ouer the City, and vpon them Stephen King of Poland incam∣ped, when he besieged the City, which hath for defence very high wals on the same side. Vpon the North-side in a corner lies Altstat, betweene which and Furstat on the South-side, lies the chiefe City Reichstat, in the middest whereof is the aforesaid mar∣ket place, and a publike armory; besides that great Ordinance is planted vpon the wals round about the City. I said that from this market place, the faire street Longgasse lieth to the gate Reichstat. Betweene Reichstat and Altstat, lie the foresaid two mils, to grinde corn, and saw boords, both (in my opinion) very rare. The City of Dantzke, from the Roman superstition, hath the same Saint for protector of their City, which England hath; namely, Saint George, whom they carry in their flags and banners. And by the way let me remember, that the state of Genea in Italy, and the Iland of Chios, vulgarly Zio, in the sea neere Constantinople, carry also the same Saint in their flagges. At Dantzke I paid fiuegrosh, a meale and being to passe into Poland, where good meat is not in all places to be had, I carried some prouision in the Coach, and paid for two hens fiue grosh, and for each measure of wine (all kinds being of like price) I paid ten grosh, which measure is called a stoope, and is somewhat bigger then the English guart.

The ninth of September, after the old stile (for the new stile is vsed in Poland,) I tooke

The ninth of September, after the old stile (for the new stile is vsed in Poland) I tooke my iourney to Crakaw, and we being foure consorts, hired a Coach for forty guldens. The first day in the morning we passed fiue miles in fiue houres space, through fruit∣full hils of corne, and onely one wood, in that part of the Dukedome of Prussen, which belongs vnto the King of Poland, and came to the City Diersaw, by which the riuer Vistula runneth. After dinner we passed three miles, through a wood and a Fen, to the Village Zunzane, inhabited by Hollanders, who hauing dried the Fen, made the fields much more fruitfull. And from thence the same night hauing passed the riuer Vistula, we went halfe a mile to Gratenis, a City belonging to the Sborosky, a family of Gen∣tlemen. The second day in the morning we went fiue miles, through a wood and fruitfull fields of corne, to a little Citty Colmersea, where that day was a meeting of the neighbour Gentlemen. If you except Crakaw, and the greater Cities, the building in these parts is poore, being of meere dirt in the Villages, and of timber and clay in the better townes, the houses being couered with straw, or tiles of wood, and the gen∣tlemens houses be farre distant one from the other, and of no beauty. After dinner we went foure miles through fruitfull fields of corne, to the City Toarn. Hitherto we had giuen money to a Hollander, one of our consorts, for the paying of our expences, and now by his account each of vs had spent three guldens and a halfe, for he had pro∣uided wine and such things which wee could not find in Villages, to be carried in our Coach. In this City we supped at an Ordinary, and fiue of vs paid two dollers. The riuer Vistula passeth by this City, and for passing the same by a bridge, wee paid for our Coach two grosh, and then entring Massouia, a Prouince of the Kingdome of Poland, the third day in the morning we passed three miles through a wood of firre, and one mile through corne fields, and I haue omitted what I paid for my dinner. In the afternoone wee passed three miles through a wild plaine, and woods of oake to Brit∣zoll, where I likewise omitted my expences. The fourth day in the morning we passed fiue miles, through corne fields and woods of oake, to Quodonab, where I forgot my expence. I formerly said that foure of vs had hired a Coach from Dantzke to Crakaw, but the horses being but two, were extreamely weary; so as one of our company ha∣uing a letter to take post horses (if so I may call poore iades) paying a grosh for each horse euery mile; which Letter is vulgarly called Podwoda-briefe. I was easily indu∣ced to leaue the Coach, and beare him company; and they telling vs that we had now passed more then halfe the way, we agreed so, as we two who left the Coach, should pay each of vs six guldens for the same. But the Hollander ouer-reached vs; for we had not gone halfe the way, and yet paid more then halfe the price which we should haue paid for the whole iourney. This done, we two drawne vpon a sledge, passed two miles through corne fieldes that afternoone to a poore Village, and paid for our pas∣sage two grosh. The fifth day in the morning hiring a countrey Waggon, and two horses at the same rate, we passed two miles through fields of hops, and sandy fields of corne, and two woods of firre, to Lonzchizcha, and from thence fiue miles through woods and sandy fields, to another village, and paid for our sledge halfe a grosh each mile, and for a horse for two miles sixe grosh, and for three miles seuen grosh. Here we inuited two Polackes to dinner, yet both together spent onely foure grosh and a halfe for vs and them, for we had ten egges for a grosh, and all other victuals very cheape. After dinner we hired two horses, and a Countrey Waggon for eight grosh, and passed foure miles through a stony way, and sandy fields of corne, to Peterkaw, where the King hath a Castle, and there we bought for our selues, flesh, bread, and beere, for our supper, at a very cheape rate, and giuing one grosh to the Hostesse for dressing our meat, and for butter and fier, shee was very well content with it. The sixth day in the morning we passed fiue miles, and in the afternoone two miles, with the same Waggon, for which wee paid seuen grosh, and the same horses, for which wee paid foureteene grosh. And we passed through woods of high firre trees, and some few fields of corne. Our meat we bought our selues, and as formerly our Hostesse dressed it, and we fetched our beere without doores. I remember wee paid three grosh for a goose, two for a partridge, two for a loyne of mutton, and three for a pigge. They

sold a bushel of oates for two grosh, which at Thoarn they sold for six grosh. In these parts were great store of hop-yards. After dinner we passed three miles throgh woody hils, and corne fieldes, and paied for our horses and a country waggon twelue grosh.

The seuenth day in the morning, wee passed to a poore village foure miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and many woods of firre, and one of oake, and vvee hired our country waggon with two horses, for fourteene grosh. Further wee went three miles to another village, through hils of corne, and a heath full of woods, and paied for one horse and a waggon, six grosh. After dinner we passed to a village three miles, through fruitfull hils of corne; and by the way we might see a stately Gentle∣mans house, and Gentlemen hawking in the fieldes: and I remember not in all my long trauell, euer to haue met hawkers or hunters in the fieldes, but onely heere, and once in Bohemia. In this village the King hath a Castle. The eight day, in the mor∣ning, we passed forward with the same horses and waggon, which we had in the after∣noone before, and went two miles to Pnecho, and wee paied for our horses and wag∣gon fifteene grosh, and gaue one to the waggoner. Here the King hath another faire Castle. From hence we passed two miles to a village, through mountaines and corne fields, and paied for two horses and a waggon foure grosh, and gaue to the waggoner procuring our horses one grosh.

The same day we went three miles, through little mountaines of corne, to Cra∣kaw, and paied for two horses and a waggon six grosh. Heere wee lodged with the * 1.67 Fleming, consort of our iourney, and had our diet after the Dutch manner, and price. Fortified Cities, are very rare in Poland, they placing their strength in their swords and horsemen, rather then in walles. Of all the Cities, Crakaw is the chiefe, where the King and his Councell reside. It is seated in a plaine, hauing mountaines on all sides, but somewhat distant, and it is compassed with two walles of stone, and a dry ditch. The building is very faire, of free stone foure roofes hye, but couered with tiles of wood for the most part. It is of a round forme, but somewhat longer from the East to the West. In the midst of the City is a large market place quadrangular, wherein is the Cathedrall Church, and in the midst of the market place is the Senate house for the City, about which are many shops of Merchants. Vpon the East side of the City is the Kings Castle, seated on a hill; being faire, and high built, almost quadran∣gular, but somewhat more long then broad, and lying open on the South side, with∣out any building aboue the wall. On the East side be the Chambersof the King and Queene, with galleries adioyning. On the North side is a faire gallery; some forty fiue walking paces long, where they vse to feast and dance. On the West side are the chambers of the Queene Dowager; from whence are priuate staires to the gate of the Castle; by which the French King, Henry the third, stole away secretly into France. On the same side is a Chappell, in the which the Kings are buried. Vpon the East side of this City, where this Castle is seated, lie foure suburbes; namely, the Iewes little City, and Cagmen, which is diuided by the riuer Vistula, from the other two, called Stradam and the Stewes. And Stradam belongs to the City, but the rest haue their own Magistrates and priuiledges. Towards the South and South-west, lies the suburb Garbatz, belonging to the City, which of late was burnt in the ciuill war, by the forces of Zamosky, one of the Palatines, and Chancellor of the Kingdome, de∣fending the Election of Sigismund now King, against Maximilian of Austria, chosen King by another party. On the North side are the suburbs Biskop, and Clepart, which haue their owne Magistrates.

From hence being to take my iourney for Italy, I bought a horse for eighteene Guldens, and he that sold him, according to the manner there vsed, caused his bridle to be put on, and so by the same deliuered the horse into my hands. I paied fifteene grosh for a paire of shooes, fifty for a paire of boots, nine for spurs, two guldens and a halfe for a saddle, a gulden and a halfe for other furniture for my iourney, nine grosh for stirrups, eight grosh for foure horse shooes, and eight grosh for each bushell of oates. An Italian Gentleman being to returne into Italy, bought likewise a horse; and with this faire companion I tooke my iourney. The first day towards euening

we rode two miles through fruitfull hills of corne, to a Country house, where I paied for my supper two grosh, for hay a grosh & a halfe, for a quarter of a bushel of oates, two grosh, and gaue to the Ostler halfe a grosh. The second day in the morning we rode three miles, through woods of firre, to a village, where I paied for my dinner two grosh, for hay halfe a grosh, for the third part of a bushell of oates a grosh and a halfe. After dinner we rode one mile and a halfe through a great wood, hauing the Mountaines of Hungary on our left hand, and passing the riuer Vistula, wee rode a mile through fenny fields, and woods of firre and beech, and came to a little Citie Opsenson, where I paid for my supper eight grosh, and for some three English pintes of wine fiue grosh, for beere a grosh and a halfe, for a third part of a bushell of oates, nine grosh, and for hay and straw a grosh and a halfe, and this City was subiect to a Gentleman of Poland.

The third day in the morning, wee rode three miles and a halfe, through fields somewhat ouerflowed, but fruitfull in corne, and a wood of firre, to Plesua, subiect to the Barrons of Promnitz, and seated in Silesia, a Prouince of the Dutch Empire; for after one miles riding we came out of Poland, into the said Prouince, which is sub∣iect to the Emperour, as likewise Morauia is, by his right as hee is King of Bohemia: but in Silesia they speake Dutch, and Morauia hath his owne language, little differing from that of Bohemia. Also in our way we passed the riuer Vistula by boat, and ano∣ther arme thereof by a bridge. Here the Barrons of Promnitz haue a Castle, where∣in they reside; and here I paied for my dinner sixe grosh, for beere one, for hay and a third part of a bushel of oates two grosh, and for a measure of wine (somewhat bigger then the English quart) ten grosh. After dinner we rode two miles, through fruitfull fields of corne, to a little City subiect to the Emperour, (not by large sub∣iection, but proper right to all the Reuenewes of that Territory) as he is King of Bo∣hemia: and I paied for supper three grosh, for a third part of a bushell of oates with hay and straw fiue grosh. The fourth day we rode two miles in the morning, being now entred into Morauia, where the miles are exceeding long, as they be in Bohemia: and we passed through most fruitful hils of corne, and some woods, and came to a lit∣tle village, seated a little beyond the City Freestat, belonging to the Dukes of Tesch, and here I paied for my dinner three grosh, and as much for my horse-meat. After dinner we rodetwo miles through hils and mountaines, fruitfull of corne, and some woods of oakes: for Morauia is a pleasant Countrey, very fruitfull, and full of townes and villages; and wee came to Ostrenam, where I paied for my supper three grosh, for beere two, for my horse-meat foure and a halfe. The fift day in the mor∣ning we rode three miles, through fruitfull hils of corne to the village Boteuisa; being very pleasant and full of orchards, and subiect to a Gentleman of that Countrey. By the way we passed on horse-backe two armes of the riuer Odera, which hath his head three miles distant. Heere wee dined with the Preacher (or Minister) of the Towne, because the Hoste of the Inne was newly dead; & I paied for my dinner foure grosh, for beere one grosh, and for horse-meat two grosh. Afterdinner we rode two miles, through most fruitfull hils of corne, to a pleasant village (as all Morauia is pleasant and fertile) and I paied for my supper fiue grosh, and foure for my horse meat. The sixth day in the morning we rode three miles, through fruitful hils of corne, hauing woody Mountaines on both hands; and in the midst of the way, passed by the City Granitz, and came to Leipny. The Cities in these parts are built with Arches halfe ouer the streets, so as in the greatest raine, a man may passe in the streets vnder them with a dry foot, and such is the building of this little City, where in some thirty families of Iewes did dwell. Here I paied for my dinner foure grosh, and for my horse-meat two grosh (hitherto I meane groshes of Poland) After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe in a paued way, with corne fields on both hands, to the City Speron; where I paied for my supper fiue grosh, (I meane now, and hereafter groshes of Morauia,) and for my horse-meat three grosh: and here I paied for an Orange two grosh. In this iour∣ney through Poland, and from Cracaw to this place, we had heere the first bed, hauing before lodged vpon benches in a warme stoue. The seuenth day in the morning, wee

rode two very long miles, through most fruitfull hils of corne, & rich pastures, to a vil∣lage, hauing by the way passed by the Citie of Creitzon (wherein many Iewes dwelt) & by very many villages: and here I paied for my dinner three grosh, & for my horse-meat one grosh, for a measure of wine like an English pint, three creitzers After din∣ner we rode a mile and a halfe, through most fruitfull hils of corne, to a place called, The Iewes village, beyond the Episcopall City Vascon, and I paied for my supper two grosh, and for my horse-meat three grosh and a halfe. The eight day in the morning wee rode two miles, going much out of our way, and passed through most fruitfull hils of corne, and pleasant vineyards, to Nimsich, and I paied for my dinner foure grosh, for my horse-meat one grosh and a halfe. After dinner we rode halfe a mile, through hils planted with vines, to Tracht, and I paied for my supper six grosh, for my horse-meat two and a halfe, and for beere to wash my horses feet, six creitzers.

The ninth day in the morning, wee rode foure miles to a village, through hils of corne, and in the mid way were the confines of Morania, and of Austria into which we now entred. Here I paied for my dinner fourteene creitzers, and three for my horse-meat. The vintage being now at hand, when wee came from our Innes in the morning, wee vsed to carry bread with vs, and so to breake our fast with bunches of grapes gathered by the way. After dinner we rode two miles, through hils and moun∣taines most fruitfull of corne and wine, to Pasdorffe, and I paied for my supper eigh∣teene creitzers, and nine for my horse-meat. The tenth day in the morning we rode two miles and a halfe; through hils of corne, and many woods, to a village, not farre from Vlrich-kirke, aud here I omitted my expence.

After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through a very large plaine, fruitfull of corne and pasture, with many pleasant woods, and compassed round about with mountaines, and came to Vienna, vulgarly called Wien. Neere the City on the North side the riuer Danow runneth by, from the East to the West, three armes whereof close * 1.68 together (with some ground betweene, which many times is ouerflowed) wee pas∣sed by three bridges, whereof one hath twenty nine arches, the other fifty seuen, and the third fifteene, each of those arches being some eighteene walking paces long. Be∣tweene the second bridge, and the third next to the City, is a pleasant groue, and good part of the ground vnder the bridges is many times dry; but when the riuer riseth, it doth not only fill the all beds, but ouerfloweth the fields on both sides. At the gate of Wien, each man paid for his horse two pochanels; and when wee came to the Inne, the Hoste sent our names written to the Magistrate. Wien the metropolitan City of Austria, is a famous Fort against the Turkes, vpon the confines of Austria, which if they should once gaine, their horse-men might suddenly spoile the open Countries of Bohemia, and Morauta, and good part of Salesia. The Citie is of a round forme, and vpon the North side there is an ascent to it vpon a hil, otherwise without the wals on all sides the ground is plaine, except the West side, where mountaines lie a good di∣stance from the City, and vpon that side the Sultan of the Turkes incamped, vpon the hils neere the gallowes, when in the time of the Emperour Rodulphua, hee be∣sieged the City, or rather came to view it, with purpose to besiege it the next summer. The streets are narrow, but the building is stately, of free stone. Two Towers of the Church are curiously ingrauen, the like whereof is not in Germany, except the Tower or steeple of Strashurg. The common report is, that two chiefe workemen had great emulation in building them; and that one hauing finished his Tower, found meanes to breake the necke of the other, lest his workemanship should excel that he had done. One of the Towers some three yeeres past, was shaken with an earth-quake, and in∣deed the houses of this City are many times shaken therewith, and they haue a Pro∣phecy of old, that this City shall be destroied with an earth quake. It is dangerous to walke the streetes in the night, for the great number of disordered people, which are easily found vpon any confines, especially where such an army lieth neere, as that of Hungary, gouerned by no strict discipline. Ernest as and Mathias, Arch-dukes of Au∣stria, and brothers to the Emperour Rodulphus, did at this time lie here, both in one house, and did eat at one table, and in the time of their meales, it was free for strangers

and others to come into the roome. I staied three daies a Wien to ease my weary horse, and I paid each meale twenty foure creitzers, for oates the day and night eighteene, and in like sort for hay six creitzers.

From hence we tooke our iourney for Paduoa in Italy, and the first day after din∣ner werode six miles, in a plaine of vineyards, pastures, and corne fields, with some woods, to a village, where I paid fifteene creitzers for my supper, and eight for my horse. The next day in the morning we rode foure miles, through a wild plaine, by the City Newstat, and not farre thence came to Newkirke, where I paid twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, foure for my horse, and twelue for a measure of wine, like our English quart. Henceforward we had no more beere, but onely wine set on the table. After dinner we rode three miles through woods and mountaines, planted with vines, and a rich valley of pasture and corne, all in a stony soyle, to Schwatzen. I obserued that the horses we met laded with wine, had their noses couered, which they said was done, lest they should be ouercome with the vapour thereof: This City is seated betweene most high mountaines, in a narrow streight, hewen out of a Rocke, and shut vp with a wall of stone. Here I paid for my supper twenty creitzers, and for drinking after sup∣per (vulgarly schlaffdruncke, that is, sleeping drinke) sixe creitzers, and for the fourth part of a bushell of oates, nine creitzers (which before we had for foure creitzers and a halfe) and for hey and straw three creitzers. The third day in the morning we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines, the ascent of one of them being halfe a mile, and through rich pastures, to Mor thusly, and I paid for my dinner eighteene creitzers, and for my horse-meat fiue creitzers, oates being deerer here then before. This day neere Spitle we passed out of Austria into Styria. After dinner we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines, yeelding good pastures, to a village, where I paid for my supper twenty foure creitzers, and twelue for my horse-meat. The fourth day in the morning we rode foure miles, through mountaines with pasture and woods, and valleies of corne, to the City Brucke, where I paid for my dinner fifteene creitzers, for my horse-meat fiue creitzers, the third part of a bushell of oates being here sold for twenty foure creitzers. After dinner we rode in like way two miles, to the City Lowen, and I paid for my supper fifteene creitzers, for three little measures and a halfe of oates, foure∣teene creitzers, for stable three creitzers, and foure for dregs of wine to wash my hor∣ses feet. The fifth day in the morning we rode two miles in like way to a village, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner, and foure for my horse meat. After dinner we rode in the like way, and ouer mountaines couered with snow, three miles and a halfe, to a village, not farre from which, Charles of Gratz, Arch-duke of Austria, (vncle by the Father side to the Emperour Rodulphus, and Father to the Queene of Poland, late∣ly maried to King Sigismond,) was of late buried in a Monastery neere Knettel∣feld. In this village I paid foureteene creitzers for my supper, and twelue for my horse-meat. The sixth day in the morning we rode one mile in like way, to Iudenburg, that is, the City of the Iewes, and I paid foureteene creitzers for breakefast. Then we rode fiue miles in a stony way, through high mountaines, to Newen-markt, and I paid eighteene creitzers for my supper, and fifteene for my horse-meat. In this Countrey of Styria, many men and weomen haue great wens hanging downe their throats, by drinking the waters that run through the mines of mettals.

The seuenth day in the morning we rode two miles to the confines of Styria, and entring Carinthia, passed by the City Freysacke, in which was a faire and strong Castle, seated vpon a high mountaine, and so wee passed one mile further to a village, all our way hauing beene very troublesome by reason of the stony mountaines, and narrow passages, we hauing a coach in our company. Heere I paied twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, and fourteene for my horse-meat. After dinner wee rode two miles in a plaine compassed with mountaines, to Sternfield; where I paied ninteene creitzers for my supper, and sixteene for my horse-meat. The eight day in the morning we rode one mile, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, to a pleasant City, Saint Voyte. As in Styria, so here in Carinthia, the men and women haue great wens vpon their throats, with drinking the waters that passe the Mines. Heere I paied for my dinner and sup∣per

forty eight creitzers, and twenty foure for my horse-meat, for we staid here to rest our horses, and every day we tooke shorter iournies, because wee had a Coach in our company, which could hardly passe the streights and stony waies of the Alpes, and in no other part of the Alpes, they vse at any time to passe with Coaches, but here very seldome, in respect of the ill way. The ninth day we rode three miles, through a fruitful plaine of corne, to Feldkirken, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner, and foure for my horse-meat. After dinner we rode about two miles, by the side of a lake on our left hand towards the South, beyond which lake Boleslaus King of Poland lies buried in a Monasbery, who hauing killed a Bishop, warning him to amend his life, did vpon his owne free will doe penance there, taking the habit of a Monke, and seruing in the same Cloyster, as a lay brother to warme stoues: but the Polackes say, that the body of the dead Bishop did many miracles, whereupon with great expence of treasure, they of late obtained at Rome, to haue him made a Saint. And so we came to a village where I paid twenty creitzers for my supper, thirteene for my horse-meat, and eight for drinke after supper. The tenth day in the morning we rode about a mile, through high and rocky mountaines, to the City Villake, by which the Riuer Draw runneth, and here I omitted my expences. After dinner we rode three miles, through high and rocky mountaines, and a narrow way; and our Coachman by the way shewed vs vp∣pon the left hand towards the South, a Castle, which of old belonging to the Gouer∣nours of the Prouince, was now demolished, and because money receiued of the Turkes for treason, was hidden here, they say that euer since ill spirits walke in that place.

In the villages of Carinthia (being a Prouince of the Dutch Empire) the Countrey people speake Wendish, or the tongue of the old Vandals, which I haue like wise heard to be vsed in villages neere Angsburg, and neere Witteberg in Saxony, and vpon the shoare of the Balticke sea in Pomern, and Meckleburge, so as it seemes, that barbarous nation, though scattered and loosing their name, yet still liueth in those places.

So we came to Altaporta, that is High gate, where I omitted my expences. The eleuenth day in the morning wee rode a mile, through high mountaines and rocky, and a narrow way to the village Trenise, where the Dutchmen shewed a pasport, and we all had a like pasport giuen vs from the Emperour his Officers, which we were to deliuer to the Venetian Officers at Pontena, left either for suspition of infectuous sick∣nes, or any other cause, they should not permit vs to enter into Italy. In the said village I paid fifteene creitzers for my dinner, and fiue for my horse-meat.

After dinner we rode two miles, in a stony way betweene mountaines, to Pontena, which the Dutch call Pontafell, and by the way there was a wall of stone betweene the mountaines, and a village called Chiusa, where there was a gate, shutting vp the high way, vpon which was written in Italian.

La chiusa, L'Alpi chiudono i confini della famosa Italia, manon ponno mai chiudere l'honer del sagio Contarini. The inclosure or shutting vp. The Alpes close vp the confines of famous Italy, but can neuer inclose the honour of the wise Contarini.

The Contarini are a family of Gentlemen in Venice. Here the Venetian souldiers keeping this passage, required a beneuolence of vs, which we willingly gaue, and out companions paid foure Venetian lires for the foure horses in their Coach, but wee that were horsemen paid no tribute. Here we had another passe-port to be shewed at Venzona. I paid at Pontena thirty sols of Venice for my supper, thirty fiue for oates, and ten for hey.

And giue me leaue to remember, that I hauing for the cold at Dantzke, in the be∣ginning of September, put on a woollen wasecoat, was forced now at the entring of Italy, for great heat in the end of October, to put off the same.

The twelfth day in the morning wee rode foure miles (meaning Dutch miles, though wee be now entered into Italy, because my Dutch companions so reckoned

them.) We now had entred the Italian Prouince Frioly, which the Latines call Forum Iulij; because the Legions vsed to be sent from hence ouer the Alpes, & the Venetians call Patria, that is country; because the Venetians fled from hence, into the Lakes of Venice, when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy, by this name acknowledging it to be their country, from whence they originally came. Aquilegia the seat of the Pa∣triarkes, destroyed by Attila, was of old famous; but the Venetians by the Popes fa∣uour, haue drawne the Patriarkes seat to Venice. By the way wee passed seuen bran∣ches of the Riuer Tagliamonti on horse-backe without boats, the streame being so vio∣lent by the waters falling from the mountaines, that it dazels the eyes, if the passen∣ger looke vpon the water; for which cause wee passed warily, turning our eyes from the water, and hauing guidespassing before vs, to try and shew vs the Fordes. By the way vpon a bridge, this was written in Latine:

For the carrying ouer of Dutch merchandize, by the streames of Ledra, S. S. Presi∣dent of the Prouince, speedily built this Bridge.

So wee came through a plaine somewhat wilde, or lesse fruitfull, to Spilenburg; where I paied twenty one sols for my dinner, eight for oats, and foure for hay. After dinner we rode two Dutch miles, through wild stony fields, to Sanuocate, where I paid thirty sols for my supper, thirty two for oats, and ten for hay. The thirteenth day in the morning, we rode three Dutch, or fourteen Italian miles; through wilde grounds, and stony fields of corne, and neere our iournies end, by many Orchardes and Vine∣yards, to Konian, where I omitted my expence. By the way wee met a Gentleman, in his coach drawne with oxen. After dinner wee rode two Dutch, or eight Italian miles, and in a wilde field, passed two branches of a riuer by a boat, in which we sate on horse-backe; and we paied sixteene sols for our passage, and thence wee came to a village, where I paied forty sols for my supper, twenty three for oats, and ten for hay. And comming hither on All-soules euening, which they keepe with great superstiti∣on, wee could not sleepe for little bels tinckling all night. The fourteenth day in the morning, we rode six Italian miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and by pleasant Vineyards, to Treuigi, a City little in circuit, but fortified, and built of bricke, with arches hanging ouer the streets, vnder which men walke dry in the greatest raine, where I haue omitted my expences.

After breakefast we rode twenty two Italian miles, through a most pleasant plain, in which we passed ouer a riuer, and came to Paduoa. Here I sold my horse for twen∣ty * 1.69 siluer crownes, which I bought at Crakaw for eighteene guldens; and by the way, I might haue sold him for twenty six crownes or more, and from the place where I sold him, might easily haue hired a coach or horses to Paduoa, but my foolish hope to sell him deerer, and desire to saue the charge of hiring a coach, or horse, kept me from selling him by the way, whereof I repented when I came to Paduoa, where horse∣meat was very deere, and the horse-coarsers finding that I must needs sell him, agreed among themselues, so craftily, sending mee euery day new buyers, to offer mee lesse then before they had offered, as when I had kept him fourteene dayes, I must haue beene forced to sell my horse at their price, if I had not found an English Gentleman by chance, who returning into Germany, gaue mee twenty crownes for my horse. I staied all this winter at Paduoa, in which famous Vniuersity I desired to perfect my Italian tongue, where a Student may haue his table at an Ordinary (vulgarly a la do∣zena) and his chamber for eight, or at most, for tenne siluer crownes the month: but few liue after this fashion, saue the Dutch, and strangers new arriued, and hauing not yet got the language; but rather they hire a chamber, which is to be had for a zechine, or tenne lires the month, or at a lower rate, the Hostesse being to finde linnen, and dresse the meat you buy. My Hoste had a large house, with a faire court, hired yeer∣ly for forty crownes, and with him, my selfe and some Dutch men lodged, each ha∣uing his chamber and plentifull diet, for eight siluer crownes the month.

When I went to Venice, I lodged with an Hostesse, an old widow, which had a house like a Pallace; for which, she paied two hundred crownes yeerely, and there I paied for a chamber foure siluer crownes by the month, euery man there buying

meat at his pleasure, which the Hostesse dresseth; and findes linnen.

But that the price of things may better appeare, it will not be amisse particularly to set some prices downe for both Cities; for howsoeuer strangers spend more in Ve∣nice, then in Padnoa; yet that is not by reason of diet, but for the greater price of cham∣bers, and extraordinary inticements to spend. The prices I will briefly set downe, in some few particulars, because in the due place treating of diet, I am to speake more largely thereof. It is the fashion of Italy, that onely men, and the Masters of the family, goe into the market and buy victuals, for seruants are neuer sent to that purpose, much lesse weomen, which if they be chast, rather are locked vp at home, as it were in prison. Againe, the small coines of brasse, are very helpefull to the poore, all victuals being sold in small portions, according to the smallest money, yea, the very spices, which in the shoppes are put vp in papers, ready beaten, according to greater or the very least coynes. The Italians are sparing in diet, but particularly at Padnoa, the mar∣kets abound rather with variety, then quantities of meat. Some hundreds of turkies hang out to be sold, for six or seuen lires each, according to the goodnes. And this ter∣ritory yeelding better corn then other parts, they haue very white bread, light, & plea∣sant in tast, especially that which is called Pan-buffetto. I remember I bought a pound of mutton for fiue sols and a halfe, of veale for eight, of porke for eight, a fat hen for two lires, eight little birds for six sols, a great and fat pigeon for two lires, a pullet for thirty fiue, and sometime forty sols, an Eele after ten sols the pound, kreuises the pound three, and sometimes six sols, a pike the pound seuen or eight sols, round coc∣kles the hundred three sols, the longe, which we call rasers, the hundreth twenty sols, the skalops which they call holy cockels, twelue for a lire, Cheuerns the pound foure sols, a plaise sixe sols, tenches the pound eight sols, sawsages the pound ten sols, sixe egges eight sols, butter the pound foureteene sols, piacentine cheese the pound six sols, and parmesan the pound ten or twelue sols, a measure of salt for the table foure sols, rice the pound three sols, ten snailes foure sols, apples the pound two sols, peares & wardens the pound foure sols, chesnuts the pound three sols, dry grapes the pound two sols, sometimes three; almonds the pound fiue sols, six orenges for one gaget, a pomegranat one sol, oyle the pound ten sols, a secchio of wine thirty fiue sols, or the pound thereof eight sols, waxe candles the ounce two sols, and ten small waxe candles twenty two sols, other candles the pound sixteene sols, or foureteene if they be little, a quire of writing paper fiue sols. The Hostesse dresseth your meat in the bargaine for your chamber, and findes you napkins, tableclothes, sheetes, and towels; and either in your chest or her owne, will lay vp the meat, and very bread you leaue, more proui∣dently then any of our parts would require; and little boyes attend in the market pla∣ces with baskets, who for a soll will carry home the meat you buy; and dare not de∣ceiue you though you goe not with them. I paid to my taylor for making a cloake foure lires, and for my doublet and hose eight lites; to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire, that is, twenty sols; for washing it two sols; and for washing foure handkerchers one sol. And this shall suffice for particular expences.

The City Paduoa, was built by Antenor a Troian, and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey, ioined themselues to these Troians. These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa, where Hereules left them, and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians, to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues, then the French subdued all this Prouince, till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans, and were made Citizens of Rome. The Roman Empire declining, the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa, into the lakes of Venice. Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa, and the Lon∣gobards burnt it, which being rebuilt, and flourishing vnder the German Emperors, Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof, in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians, restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the fa∣ction of the Guelphes & Gibellines, Paduoa then & from that time hath bin subiect to ma∣ny Princes of the Scaligers, & Cararrians, til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City, which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them

yeeld to the Emperour; but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it, and to this day it is subiect to them, who send a Magistrate called Podesta, euery fifteene mo∣neths to gouerne it. Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria (as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey) till after Antenors death, the Heneti called it Paduoa, of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen. Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word, vpon the flying of Swannes: others say it is so called of the riuer Po, called in Latine Padus, or of the territory lying beyond the Po, the Riuer giuing name to the territory, and that to the City. Before it was destroied by Attila, it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus, but after it was built on the other side, in a fenny soyle, where now the market place is, but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water, being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse, and of a triangular forme, as it seemed to me. The first angle is on the North-side, where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine, and the stately Pallace Areno, in which the French King Henry the third was lodged, when hee returned from Poland into France. The second angle is towards the East; where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice. The third angle is towards the South, where is the monastery Santo, called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon, and the monastery of Saint Iustina. And these angles taken away, the old City is round. On the West-side vpon the wals, is built the old Pallace of the old City. Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain, hauing no trees neere the City. Of old the wall was triple, and now it is double. The inner wall is some three miles in compasse; and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about, with pleasant shade of trees, where Gentlemen vse to play at the bal∣loone. This wall compassed round with the Brent, hath foureteene gates, with as ma∣ny bridges of stone. The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall, which is about seuen miles compasse, and hath six stately gates, but this wall is nothing so strong as the other. The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa, from that of Uerona, and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara.

Two riuers of old called Medonci, enter the City; the greater at this day called Brenta, falling from the Alpes, with the right hand branch, runneth to Paduoa, and with the left hand branch to Rosta, and diuiding againe into two branches, one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa, the greater takes the name Bachilio, and neere to the wals of Paduoa, receiues the waters of Brentella, increased with a branch of Brenta. These Riuers enter the City, and with diuers channels driue many mils, compasse the wals, and not onely make the fields fertile, but serue to carry all commodities (abounding here) from hence to Venice, and to bring from thence such things as they want, and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies.

The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull, and the building is with arches of stone, hang∣ing ouer the streets, vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine; but the streetes are thereby made narrow, and in the middest are dirty. There be fiue market places: in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke: in the second herbes are sold, in the third corne: in the fourth wood, and in the fifth straw. The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony, is inhabited by Franciscan Friars, and is much fairer then any other religious house; the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno, and after to the Virgin Mary; and at last to Saint Anthony. The pauement thereof is of marble, and the building very stately, hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead, and three high towers. The Chappell wherein S^t Anthony lies, is all of marble, & round about it the miracles are engrauen, which they attribute to this Saint: at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S^t, which they tie about their loyns, and attribute strange effects thereunto. Here is a statua of marble, erected to Peter Bem∣bus; and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse, which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata. In the Church of Franciscan Minorites, there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello, a Physitian, sitting in his chaire. In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina, the order of Saint Benedict was first established, and from thence dis∣persed into Italy, and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord, and after being made the Bishops Church, was endowed with great rents. These Monkes haue

a blacke habit, and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina, of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke, (who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple, and to haue conuerted Paduoa, and to haue baptised Saint Iustina, when shee suffered Mar∣tyrdome) and likewise of Saint Maximus (both Bishops, and protecting Saints of the City,) as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist, brought by Vrius a Monke from Constan∣tinople; but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them. Biondus wri∣teth, that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter, and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius. In the first court yard of this Monastery, the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted. In the second I found this Epitaph:

Adoleseens tametsi proper as, Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias; Deinde quod scriptum est legas. Hic sunt Poet a Pacuuij sita ossa: Hoc volebam nessius ne esses: vale. D. M. Young man tho thou hastest This stone desires thee to behold it; Then to read that is written. Here are laid the bones of the Poet Pacunius, This I would haue thee know: Farewell. D. M.

A large and pleasant meadow lies before this Monastery. There is another of the Benedictines in this City, but those Friers weare a white habit, & liue with more seuere rules. In the Monastery of Saint Augustines Hermits, before named, are the sepul∣chers of the Princes of the family Carraria. The Cathedrall Church was of old Magnificall, and to this day hath twelue Churches vnder it within the City. The Marble chest containing Autenors bones, being found when the foundation of the Almes-house was digged, was then brought to the Church of Saint Laurence; where∣in was found a guilded sword, and Latine verses in a barbarous stile, shewing that the Letter A, should be fatall to the City; vvhich they say haue proued to true by Attila, Agilulsus, Accidanus, Ansedissus and Albertus: vnder vvhom the City vvas much afflicted. This chest is erected vpon Marble pillers at the doore of the Church, and vpon the wall these verses are written in Latine:

Iuclitus Antenor post dirutae maenia Troiae, Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidum{que} fugas, Expulit Euganeos, Patauinam condidit vrbem, Quem tenet hac humili marmore casa Domus. Famous Autenor, Troyes walles pulled downe, Henets and Dardans remnant here did traine; Expeld th' Euganeans, built faire Padnoa Towne, Whom this low Marble house doth here containe.

Another Epitaph of the same Antenor, seemes lately written by the very name of the City, and sauoureth a Transalpine wit, giuing small credit to Liuy, or their fabu∣lous Antiquities:

Hic iacet Antenor Paduanaeconditor vrbit, Proditor ipse fuit hique sequnutur eum. Antenor Padoaes founder lieth heere, He was a Traytor, these him follow neere.

The Monument of the Troian horse of wood, is kept in the Pallace of the Capi∣list family, whereupon they are called the Capilists of the horse. There bee eighteene Cloysters of Nunnes in the City, and two of repenting or illuminate women, so they call whores entring Cloysters. About the middest of the City is a faire Pallace, where

the Venetian Podesta or gouernour dwels, the gallery whereof (in which hee sitteth to iudge causes) is very large, and hath a high arched roofe hanging by Art, not su∣stained by many pillers, and the same is couered with lead, and adorned with many pictures of the famous Painter Zoto, and the length thereof is one hundred forty wal∣king paces, the breadth forty three paces. There is the Statua of Iulius Paulus, Doctor of Ciuill Law, and of Peter Aponensis, or, d'Abano; and of Titus Liuius, and of Al∣bertuo the Hermitan, placed ouer the foure dores. At the West end of this gallery, is a Monument of Titus Liuius the Historian carued within the wall, and these verses are written vpon the wall in Latine:

Ossatuum{que} caput, liues tibi maxime Liui, Prompto animo hic omnes composuera tui: Tufamam aeternam Romae, patriae{que} dedisti, Huic criens, illi fortia facta canens. At tibi dat Paetria hac: & simaiora liceret, Haec totus stares aureus ipse loco. Greatest Liuy, thy countrey men haue laid, Thy head and bones here with a ready minde: Thy Countrey, and Rome thou hast famous made, Here borne, while their greatest acts thou hast refinde: Thy Countrey giues thee this, if more it might, Here all in gold thou shouldst stand shining bright.

This Titus Liuius died in the fourth yeere of the Empire of Tiberim Caesar, and in the sixty six yeere of his age. Not farre from this Monument stands a brazen Image of the same Liuy, with this inscription in Latine:

The bones of Titus Liuy of Paduoa, by all mortall mens consent worthy, by whose penne truely inuincible, the Acts of the inuincible Roman people should be written.

Besides, they shew in the City Titus Liuius his house. And this Monument, orthese bones of him were brought thither from the Monastery of Saint Iustina. The Court where the Senate meetes, lieth neere to the said gallery of this Pallace; where there is astone, which they call the stone of Turpitude, (that is, filthines or disgrace:) where∣upon debtors, which disclaim the hauing of goods to pay their debts, do sit with their hinder parts bare; that with this note of disgrace, others may be terrified from borrow ing more then they can pay. They haue a Pest-house called Lazaretto, & two like hou∣ses for Lepers, and one Alsmes-house for the poore strangers, another for Orphanes, and a third for children cast out, or left in the streets. Neere the Church of Saint Lu∣ria, there is a Well, called the Diuels Well; which they say was brought into the street by Art Magick, out of the court-yard of a Gentleman, denying water to his neighbours. This City hath little trafficke, though it lies very fit for the same, because the Venetians draw it all to themselues.

But Gentlemen of all Nations come thither in great numbers, by reason of the fa∣mous Vniuersity, which the Emperour Frederick the second, being offended with the City of Bologna, planted herein the yeere 1222, or there abouts, some comming to study the ciuill Law, other the Mathemetickes, & Musick, others to ride, to practise the Art of Fencing, and the excercises of dancing and actiuity, vnder mostskilful pro∣fessors of those Arts, drawn hither by the same reason. And Students haue here great, if not to great liberty & priuiledges, so as men-slaiers are only punished with banish∣ment, which is a great mischiefe, and makes strangers liue there in great iealousie of treason to be practised against their liues. The Schoole where the professors of libe∣rall Sciences teach, is seated ouer against Saint Martins Church, and was of old a publike Inne, hauing the signe of an Axe, which name it still retaineth. The promo∣tion of degrees is taken in the Bishops hall, neere the Cathedrall Church, and the Do∣ctors are made in the chiefe Church. And there bee eight Colledges built for poore Students of seuerall Prouinces.

The Athestine family of the Dukes of Ferrara, and the Honorian family, of the

tyrant Acciolinus, and the Carrarian family of their owne Princes, had their begin∣ning in this City, as they write. And they doe no lesse triumph of diuers Citizens borne heere, namely Marsilius, Mamerdinus a Minorite who being a Diuine, wrote learnedly in the yeere 1329, of the power of the Pope and Emperour, defending the maiesty of the Emperour against the Pope: and Iulius Paulus a ciuill Lawyer, Disciple to Papinius, and liuing in the time of Titus Liuius; and Francis Zabarella a ciuill Lawyer, dying in the yeere 1417, and Peter D'Abano a Physician and Astrologer, dying in the yeere 1312: whose body being to bee burnt for suspicion of his being a coniurer, his Concubine buried, but his picture and his bookes were burnt by the Emperors command: and Michael Sauonarola a Physitian, and Titus Liuius a famous Historian: And Lucius Aruntius Stella, and Caius Valerius Flaccus, all Poets celebrated by Martiall: and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution, dying in the yeere 1542, and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier, hated by Nero: and Andreas Mantinia, the best Painter of his age, being knighted, and dying about the yeere 1517, and Augustinus Zoto a Painter, with other famous men.

The Second Booke.

CHAP. I. Of my iourney from Paduoa, to Venice, to Ferraria, to Bologna, to Rauenna, and by the shore of the Adriaticke Sea, to Ancona: then crossing the breadth of Italy, to Rome, seated not farre from the Tirrhene Sea.

WHosoeuer comes into Italy, and from whence soeuer; but more especially if he come from suspected places, as Con∣stantinople, neuer free from the plague; hee must bring to the Confines a certificate of his health, and in time of any plague, hee must bring the like to any City within land, where he is to passe, which certificates brought from place to place, and necessary to bee carried, they curiously ob∣serue and read. This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino del∣la sanita; and if any man want it, hee is shut vp in the La∣zareto, or Pest-house forty dayes, till it appeare he is healthfull, and this they call vul∣garly far' la quarantans. Neither will the Officers of health in any case dispence with him, but there hee shall haue conueuientlodging, and diet at his pleasure.

In the spring of the yeere, 1594, (the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ia∣nuary) * 1.70 I began my iourney to see Italy, and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa, the same was drawne by horses along the Riuer Brenta; & hauing shot two or three small bridges, and passed twenty miles, we came to the Village Lizzafusina, where there is a damme to stop the waters of Brenta, lest in processe of time, the passage being open, the Marshes on that side of Venice should be filled with sand or earth, and so a passage made on firme ground to the City; which they are carefull to preuent, and not with∣out iust cause, hauing found safety in their Iles, when Italy was often ouerflowed by barbarous people. Besides, they say that this damme was made, lest this fresh. water should bee mingled with their salt waters; since all the Gentlemen of Venice fetch their fresh water by boats from thence, the poorer sort being content with Well water. Heere whiles our boat was drawne by an Instrument, out of the Riuer Brenta,

into the Marshes of Venice, wee the passengers refreshed our selues with meat and wine, and according to the custome, agreed vpon the price of our meat before wee did eat it. Then we entred our boat againe, and passed fiue miles to Venice, vpon the marshes thereof; and each man paied for his passage a lire, or twenty sols, and for a horse more then ordinary, that we might be drawne more swiftly from Paduoa to Lizzafusina, each man paied foure sols, but the ordinary passage is only sixteene sols. We might haue had coaches, but since a boat passeth daily too and fro betweene these Cities, most men vse this passage as most conuenient. For the boat is couered with arched hatches, and there is very pleasant company, so a man beware to giue no offence: for otherwise the Lumbards carry shirts of Male, and being armed as if they were in a Camp, are apt to reuenge vpon shamefull aduantages. But commonly there is pleasant discourse, and the prouerb saith, that the boat shall bee drowned, when it carries neither Monke, nor Student, nor Curtesan (they loue them too well to call them whores,) the passengers being for the most part of these kindes. I remem∣ber a yong maide in the boat, crossed her selfe whensoeuer an old woman looked vp∣on her, fearing she should be a witch, whereat the passengers often smiled, seeing the girle not onely crosse her selfe for feare, but thrust her crucifix towards the old wo∣mans eyes. I said formerly that two Riuers Medoaci, runne through Paduoa, and that the greater by the name of Brenta, running to the village Lizzafusina, is stopped with a damme, lest it should mingle it selfe with the salt marshes of Venice, and that also the lesser Riuer by the name of Bachilio, passeth through Paduoa. This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia, and going out of it makes a hauen, called de Chiozza, which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria, and there it diuideth it selfe into two streames; and entring the salt marshes, makes the hauen of Venice, called Malamocco. Besides other Riuers falling from the Alpes, through Frioli, do increase these marshes, which are salt by the tides of the sea, though the same doth very little ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean, or Inland sea. And this hauen Malamocco is very large and deep, and is defended with a banke from the waues of the Adriatique sea.

[illustration]

The Description of Uenice.

Vpon the West side of venice beyond the marshes, lies the Territory of Paduoa. On the North side beyond the marshes, lies the Prouince Frioli. On the South side

beyond the marshes, lies partly the firme land of Italy, and partly the Adriatique sea; On the East side beyond the marshes lies the Adriatique sea, and the City con∣sisteth all of Iles, compassed round about with the saide marshes.

• A The great channell.
• B The market place of Saint Marke, seated in the first Sextary of Saint Marke.
• C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, the seate of the Patriarkes, seated in the second Sextary, called Caestelli Oliuolo.
• D The third Sextary on this side the channell, called di Canarigio.
• ...

  E The Church of Saint Iames lies neere the bridge Rialto, and is seated in the fourth Sextary of Saint Paul, being the first of them beyond the channell.

  The rest of the City is diuided into two other Sextaries beyond the channell, namely the fifth di S^ta Croce, and the sixth de Dorso duro.

• F The Church of Saint George the greater.
• G And the Church of Santa Maria delle gratie, both lie in the Sextary di Santa Croce.
• H The Iland Giudecca belongs to the sextary di Dorso duro.
• K The banke of the sea, vulgarly Il Lido.
• L The Iland Murana.
• M The new Lazaretto.
• N Mazorbo.
• ...

  O Buran	P San Franscesco del deserto.	Little Ilands.
  Q Torcello.	R Duo Caestelli.
  S La Certosa.	T Sta. Hellena.
  V Lazaretto Fecchio.	—

• W Chioza.
• X Malamocco, the hauen within the sea banke.
• Y Pcuegia, an Iland.
• Z San' Georgiod' Alega, in the way as we come from Paduoa to Venice, a little Iland.
• ...〈…〉〈…〉 La Concordia: a little Iland.

The Henetians of Paphlagonia, their King Palemon being dead at the siege of Troy, ioyned themselues to Antener, and possessing these parts, after they had driuen out the Euganeans, called the countrey Venice, and through their great vertue were made Citizens of Rome, and their chiefe men Senators thereof. But when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy, and the Empire of the West being weakned, did destroy the same, the said Henetians came out of Histria, now called Frioli, and from the Ter∣ritory of Paduoa, and other Italians came from adioyning parts, into certaine Ilands compassed with marshes, that they might be safe from those Barbarians; and about the yeere of our Lord, 421, began to build a City, which prouing a safe retreate from the tyranny then continually oppressing Italy, in processe of time by ciuill Arts grew incredibly. These Ilands were in number sixty neere adioyning, and twelue more distant; which being all ioyned in one, haue made this stately City, and the chiefe of them were called in the vulgar tongue, Rialto, Grado, Heraclca, & Caestello Oliuolo. The Iland Grado was of old the seat of the Patriarkes, after that the Patri∣archate of Aquilegia in Histria, was by the Popes authority translated thither: but now the seat of the Patriarkes is remoued to Caestello Oliuolo. At first Consuls gouer∣ned the City, then Tribunes, chosen out of each Ile one, till the yeere 697, when the Citizens abiding in Heraclea chose them a Duke, who dwelt in the same Ile. After forty yeeres they chose a Tribune of souldiers, in stead of a Duke, with like authority as hee had, and at last in the yeere 742, meeting in the Iland Mala∣mocco, they chose a Duke againe, and remoued his seat from Heraclea, to that Iland. Then Pipin raigning in Italy about the yeere 800, the Venetians demolished Hera∣clea which was built againe, but neuer recouered the old dignity, being more notable in the seat of the Bishop, then in the number of Citizens. For most of the Gentle∣men remoued their dwellings into the Iland Rialto, otherwise called Riuo alto; either of the depth of the marshes, or because it was higher then the other Ilands, and there∣vpon called Ripa alta. Whereupon that Iland getting more dignity then the rest, the Citizens in processe of time ioyned the sixty Ilands lying neere one to the other, with

some foure hundred bridges; of which Ilands (as is aboue said) and of the twelue more distant, this stately City consisteth. Then by common counsell, the seat of the Dukes was established in this Iland, who built the stately Pallace which at this day we see. And now a new Dukedome arising out of these salt marshes of the sea, from that time daily grew in dignity. But the City was first called Kialto, and after, of the countrey from whence the Citizens came, was called Venetia, or in the plurall number Venetiae: because many Dukedomes and Prouinces, or many Nations were ioyned in one, and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia. That the City was first cal∣led Rialto, appeares by old records of Notaries, written in these wordes: After the vse of Venice. In the name of eternall God, amen: subscribed in such a yeere of Riuoalto, and in these wordes after the vse of the Empire; In the name of Christ, amen: sub∣scribed, dated at Venice. This stately City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique sea, in the midst of marshes vpon many Ilands, is defen∣ded on the East side against the sea, by a banke of earth, which hath fiue (or some say seuen) mouths or passages into the sea; and is vulgarly called Il Lido: and being so placed by nature, not made by Art, bendeth like a bowe, and reacheth thirty fiue miles; and by the aforesaid passages, the ships and the tides of the sea goe in and out, and the deepe marshes whereof I haue spoken, are made of these salt waters, and of diuers fresh waters falling from the Alpes, and vulgarly called, il Tagliamonts La liuen∣za, la praac, la Brenta, Il Po, l' Adice, and il Bacchiglione. On the West side, the City is compassed with marshes, and after fiue miles with the Territory of Paduoa. On the North side with marshes, and beyond them partly with the Prouince Frioli, partly with the aforesaid sea banke. And vpon the South side with many Ilands, wherein are many Churches and Monasteries, like so many Forts, and beyond them with the firme land of Italy. The City is eight miles in circuit, and hath seuenty parishes, wherein each Church hath a little market place, for the most part foure square, and a publike Well. For the common sort vse well water, and raine water kept in cesternes; but the Gentlemen fetch their water by boat from the land. It hath thirty one cloysters of Monkes, and twenty eight of Nunnes, besides chappels and almes-houses. Channels of water passe through this City (consisting of many Ilands ioyned with Bridges) as the bloud passeth through the veines of mans body; so that a man may passe to what place he will both by land and water. The great channell is in length about one thousand three hundred paces, and in breadth forty paces, and hath onely one bridge called Rialto, and the passage is very pleasant by this channell; being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces. And that men may passe speedily, besides this bridge, there be thirteene places called Traghetti, where boats attend cal∣led Gondole; which being of incredible number giue ready passage to all men. The rest of the channels running through lesse streets, are more narrow, and in them many bridges are to be passed vnder. The aforesaid boats are very neat, and couered all saue the ends with black cloth, so as the passengers may goe vnseene and vnknowne, and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne, winde, or raine. And these boats are ready at call any minute of the day or night. And if a stranger know not the way, hee shall not need to aske it, for if hee will follow the presse of people, hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint Marke, or that of Rialto; the streets being very narrow (which they paue with bricke,) and besides if hee onely know his Hosts name, taking a boat, he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night. Al∣most all the houses haue two gates, one towards the street, the other towards the wa∣ter; or at least the bankes of the channels are so neere, as the passage by water is as easie as by land. The publike boats, with the priuate of Gentlemen and Citizens, are some eight hundred, or as others say, a thousand. Though the floud or ebbe of the salt water bee small, yet with that motion it carrieth away the filth of the City, besides that, by the multitude of fiers, and the situation open to all windes, the ayre is made very wholsome, whereof the Venetians bragge, that it agrees with all strangers complexions, by a secret vertue, whether they be brought vp in a good or ill ayre, and preserueth them in their former health. And though I dare not say that the Venetians

liue long, yet except they sooner grow old, and rather seeme then truly be aged: I ne∣uer in any place obserued more old men, or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires and aged grauity. To conclude, the situation of Venice is such, as the Citizens abound with all commodities of sea and land; and are not onely most safe from their enemies on the land, being seuered from it by waters, and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke, but also giue ioyfull rest vnder their power to their subiects on land, though exposed to the assault of their enemies.

The City parted in the middest with the great channell, comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles, is of old diuided into six sextaries, or six parts, vulgarly sestieri; three on this side the channell, and three beyond the channell. The first sextary on this side the channell, is that of Saint Marke; for howsoeuer it be not the Cathedrall Church, yet it is preferred before the rest, as well because the Duke resides there, as especially because Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that Ciry. The body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants from Alexandria: this Church was built in the yeere 829. at the charge of the Duke Iustinian, who dying, gaue by his last will great treasure to that vse, and charged his brother to finish the building, which was laid vpon the ruines of Saint Theodores Church, who formerly had beene the pro∣tecting Saint of the City. And the same being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more stately rebuilt, according to the narrownes of the place, the Merchants be∣ing charged to bring from all places any precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same, whatsoeuer it cost. The length of the Church containeth two hundred foot of Venice, the bredth fifty, the circuit 950. The building is become admirable, for the singular art of the builders and painters, and the most rare peeces of Marble, Porphry, Ophites (stones so called of speckles like a serpent) and like stones; and they cease not still to build it, as if it were vnfinished, lest the reuenues giuen by the last wils of dead men to that vse, should returne to their heires (as the common report goes.) There were staires of old to mount out of the market place into the Church, till the waters of the channell increasing, they were forced to raise the height of the market place. On the side towards the market place are fiue doores of brasse, whereof that in the mid∣dest is fairest, and the same, with one more, are daily opened, the other three being shut, excepting the dayes of Feasts. Vpon the ground neere the great doore, is a stone, pain∣ted as if it were engrauen: which painting is vulgarly called, Ala Mosaica, and vpon this stone Pope Alexander set his foot vpon the necke of the Emperour Fredericke Bar∣barossa, adoring him after his submission. The outward part of the Church is adorned with 148. pillars of marble, whereof some are Ophytes, that is speckled, and eight of them are Porphry neere the great doore, which are highly esteemed. And in all pla∣ces about the Church, there be some six hundred pillars of marble, besides some three hundred in the caues vnder ground. Aboue these pillars on the outside of the Church is an open gallery, borne vp with like pillars, from whence the Venetians at times of Feasts, behold any shewes in the market place. And aboue this gallery, and ouer the great doore of the Church, be foure horses of brasse, guilded ouer, very notable for an∣tiquity and beauty; and they are so set, as if at the first step they would leape into the market place. They are said to be made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus, drawing the Chariot of the Sunne, and to haue beene put vpon the triumphall Arke of Nero, by the people of Rome, when he had ouercome the Parthians. But others say that they were giuen to Nero by Tiridates the King of Armenia, and were made by the hands of the famous engrauer Lisippus. These Horses Constantine remoued from Rome to Constantinople, and that City being sacked, the Venetians brought them to Venice, but they tooke of the bridles, for a signe that their City had neuer beene conquered, but enioied Virgin liberty. And all the parts of these horses being most like the one to the other, yet by strange art, both in posture of motion, and otherwise, they are most vnlike one to the other. Aboue this gallery the Image of Saint Marke of marble, and like images of the other Euangelists, of the Virgin Mary, and of the Angell Gabriell, are placed, and there is a bell vpon which the houres are sounded, for the Church hath his Clocke, though another very faire Clocke in the market place be very neere

it. The roofe in forme of a Globe, lies open at the very top, where the light comes in; for the Church hath no windowes, and the Papist Churches being commonly darke, to cause a religious horror, or to make their candles shew better, this is more darke then the rest. I passe ouer the image of Saint Marke of brasse in the forme of a Lion, guilded ouer, and holding a booke of brasse. Likewise the artificiall Images of the Doctors of the Church, and others. I would passe ouer the Image of the Virgin Mary, painted ala Mosaica, that is as if it were engrauen, but that they attribute great miracles to it, so as weomen desirous to know the state of their absent friends, place a wax can∣dle burning in the open aire before the Image, and beleeue that if their friend be aliue, it cannot be put out with any force of wind; but if he be dead, that the least breath of wind puts it out, or rather of it selfe it goes out: and besides for that I would mention that those who are adiudged to death, offer waxe candles to this Image, and as they passe by, fall prostratero adore the same. To conclude, I would not omit mention thereof, because all shippes comming into the Hauen, vse to salute this Image, and that of Saint Marke, with peeces of Ordinance, as well and more then the Duke. A Mer∣chant of Venice saued from shipwracke, by the light of a candle in a darke night, gaue by his last will to this Image, that his heires for euer should find a waxe candle to burne before the same. Aboue the said gallery are little chambers, in which they lay vp pieces of stone and glasse, with other materials for the foresaid painting, ala Mosaica, which is like to engrauing, and Painters hauing pensions from the state, doe there ex∣ercise that Art, highly esteemed in Italy. The outward roofe is diuided into foure globes, couered with leade. Touching the inside of the Church: In the very porch thereof is the Image of Saint Marke, painted with wonderfull art, and the Images of Christ crucified, of him buried, and of the foure Euangelists, highly esteemed; besides many other much commended for the said painting like engrauing, and for other workemanship. And there be erected foure great pillars of Ophites, which they say were brought from the Temple of Salomon. At the entery of the doore is an old and great sepulcher, in which lies the Duke Marine Morosini. Not far thence is the image of Saint Geminian in pontificall habit, and another of Saint Katherine, both painted with great art. When you enter the body of the Church, there is the great Altar, vn∣der which lies Saint Marke, in a chest of brasse, decked with Images of siluer guilded, and with plates of gold, and Images enamelled, and with the Image of Christ sitting vpon a stately throne, adorned with pillars of most white Marble, and many precious stones, and curiously engrauen. At the backe of this Altar there is another, which they call the Altar of the most holy Sacrament, made of the best marble, with a little doore of brasse, decked with carued Images, and with foure pillars of Alablaster, transparant as Christall, and highly esteemed; and vpon the same hang euery day two lampes of Copper: but at the times of feasts there hang two of pure siluer. Moreouer the Or∣gans are said to be the worke of a most skilfull Artificer. In the higher gallery compas∣sing the Church, is the image of Pope Pelagius, vnder which is a place where the holy relikes are kept, which Pope Clement the eight gaue to Iohn Delphin Knight, one of the Procurators of Saint Marke, and Ambassadour at Rome for Venice, namely a peece of a bone of Phillip the Apostle, a peece of the cheeke-bone, and foure teeth of the Mar∣tyr Saint Biagius: peeces of bones of Saint Bartholmew, and Saint Thomas (forsooth) of Canterbury, and of the Apostles Saint Matthew, and Saint Marke, (whose body they say is laid in the foresaid chest) and part of the haire of the blessed Virgin, and a peece of a finger of the Euangelist Luke, and a peece of a ribbe of Saint Peter, with ma∣ny like, which they shew to the people to be adored certaine daies in the yeere. Aboue the Altar of Saint Clement, these verses are written, which shew how they worshipped Images in a more modest though superstitious age.

Nam Deus est quod I mago docet, sed non Deus ipse Hane vide as, sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa: That which the Image shewes, is God, it selfe is none, See this, but God heere seene, in mind adore alone.

Likewise these verses of the same Author, be in another place.

Effigiem Christi qui transis, pronus horona, Non tamen effigiem sed quod designat adora. Esse deum ratione caret, cui contulit esse Materiale lapis, sicut & manus effigiale. Nec Deus est naec homo, praesens quam cernis Imago, Sed Deus est & homo, quem sacra signat Imago. As thou Christs Image passest, fall the same before, Yet what this Image signifies, not it adore. No reason that it should be God, whose essence stands Materiall of stone, formall of workemens hands. This Image which thou seest, is neither God nor Man, But whom it represents, he is both God and Man.

At the entry of the Chancell, is the throne of the Dukes, made of walnut-tree, all carued aboue the head, and when the Dukes sit there, it was wont to be couered with carnation satten, but now it is couered with cloth of gold, giuen by the King of Persia. There be two stately pulpits of marble, with Histories carued in brasse, where they sing the Epistles and Gospels. On the left hand by the Altar of Saint Iames is a place, where (if a man may beleeue it) the body of Saint Marke, by a creuice suddenly brea∣king through the marble stone, appeared in the yeere 1094. to certaine Priests who had fasted and praied to find the same, the memory of the place where it was laied at the building of the Church about 829. being vtterly lost. I beleeue that the memory thereof was lost about the yeere 829. when superstition was not yet ripe, but that it was found in the yeere 1094. that age being infected with grosse superstition, let him that list beleeue. They themselues seeme to distrust this miracle, while they confesse that the same body was most secretly laid vnder the great Altar, and neuer since shew∣ed to any man, but once or twice, and that after a suspicious manner. To the foresaid pulpits another is opposite, where the Musitians sing at solemne Feasts, and from whence the Dukes newly created, are shewed to the people, and likewise the holy re∣likes (as they tearme them) are shewed twice in the yeere. The wals in the Church are so couered with the best marbles, as the lime and bricke cannot be seene: and these peeces of marble with their spots and brightnes, are very beautifull, whereof two are held for admirable Monuments, which are so ioined, as they liuely represent the I∣mage of a man. Here Marino Morosini first of all the Dukes hung his Armes vp∣pon the wals, whom the other Dukes after him in number forty three haue followed, and there hung vp their Armes. In the middest of the Church hangs a banner, giuen by the Citizens of Verona, in token of subiection, and two others for the same purpose giuen by the Citizens of Crema and Cremona. The Marble pillars setin Caues vnder the Church, beare vp the pauement, which is made of peeces of the best marble, carued and wrought with little stones of checker worke very curiously, especially vn∣der the middle globe of the roofe, and neere the great doore. And among the rare stones opposite to the singers pulpit, they shew one of such naturall spots, as it is e∣steemed a Iewell, which by change of colour (they say) doth shew the change of wea∣ther. Moreouer they shew certaine Images, carued by the direction of the Abbot Iohn Ioachim of old time, whereof many shew future euents, as that of two cockes carrying a wolfe vpon their backe, which they vnderstand to be Lewis the twelfth, and Charles the eight, French Kings, casting Lodouico Sfortia out of his Dukedome, and in like sort, (to omit many other more hidden) that of the Lyons fat in the waters, and leane vpon land, which they vnderstand to be the power of Venice by sea, and the weakenes by land. Besides they say the same Abbot caused the Images of Saint Dominicke and Saint Francis to be drawne vpon the doore of the Sanctuary, long before they liued; and the title of Saint is added to each of them, but the name is not set vpon the pictures, yet they both are painted in the habit of their order. They shew two like pictures drawne by direction of the said Abbot, whereof they vnderstand one to be the last Pope, vn∣der whom shall be one shepheard and one fould: but they say it is vnknowne what the other signifies. Before the new Chappell of the blessed Virgin, there be two little chambers, whereof one is called the Sanctuary, in which their holy relikes are kept, the

other is called the Iewell house, because the treasure of Saint Marke (so they appro∣priate all publike things to Saint Marke) is there kept, and it is vulgarly called Luogo aelle groie, that is, the place of the Iewels.

The Procurators of Saint Marke, keepe this treasure, and make no difficulty to shew it to strangers of the better sort. In this place I saw the Ducall Cap, (vulgarly ill corne, or, Beretta Ducale) which the Dukes weare at their Creation, being of inestima∣ble value, for the multitude and price of the Iewels, especially of a diamond vpon the crowne of the Cap, and a chrysolite sct in the midst. I saw two crownes of Kings with twelue stomachers of pure gold set with rich Iewels (which the Noblewomen wore at Constantinople before the Turkes tooke it) and twelue other Crownes all of pure massy gold; all which the Venetians diuiding with the French, had for their part, when they tooke Constantinople, in the yeere 1203. I saw a saphyre of extraordinary bignes, and a Diamond which the French King Henry the third gaue to this state, when he retur∣ned that way from Poland; and two whole Vnicornes hornes, each more then foure foot long, and a third shorter, and a little dish of a huge price, with innumerable ves∣sels, which for price, rarenes, and workemanship, are highly valued. They say that a Candian thiefe tooke away this treasure, which is kept with many doores and barres of iron, but that he restored it, being betraied by his fellow.

In a Chappell of this Church, is a Font of brasse, with a brasen image of Saint Iohn baptizing, and the Altar thereof is of a stone brought out of Asia, vpon which they say Christ did sit, when he preached at Tyrus: but others say it is the stone vpon which the Patriarke Iacob did sleepe. They shew there the chaire of the blessed Virgin, of stone, and two peeces of marble spotted with the blood of Iohn Baptist, and the marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Dandoli. In the Chappell of the Cardinall Zeno, they shew the Rocke strucke by Moses, and distilling water, and two precious peeces of porphe∣ry. In the vpper Vestry they shew the picture of the Virgin, painted by Saint Lukes hand, and the ring of Saint Marke, and his Gospell written with his owne hand, and a peece of the Crosse of Christ, and of the Pillar to which he was tied, and Bookes co∣uered with massy siluer, and candlestickes, chalice, and many vessels of siluer guilded, all set with little precious stones, and the Bishops Miter of great price, and many rich vestures for the Priests. The chiefe Priest of this Church must be a gentleman of Venice, and though hee be no Bishop, yet the Popes haue giuen him great priuiledges, and he is to be chosen by the Duke; because the Dukes built this Church, wherupon it is euer since called the Dukes Chappell. This Church of Saint Marke, is not vnworthily cal∣led the golden Church, for the rich ornaments thereof, especially for the Images there∣of, painted ala mosaita, like a worke engrauen. For the workemen doe incorporate gold with little square peeces of glasse, and guild the same ouer; then breaking them in very small peeces, they lay them vpon the pictures.

Among the Parish Churches belonging to Saint Marke, is the Chappell of Saint Theodore, where the Inquisitors of Religion sit thrice a weeke: namely the Popes Nun∣tio, and the Patriarke (an Inquisitor by his place, and at this time a Dominican Friar) and three Senators chosen by the Senate. Likewise the little, but most faire Church of Saint Germinian, is seated in the market place of Saint Marke, whose Priest according to the custome of Venice, is chosen by them that haue unmoueable goods in the Parish, and is confirmed by the Patriarke, in which Church the most notable things are, three Images grauen vpon the great Altar, and the sepulcher of Iohn Peter Stella, Great Chancellor, and the Altar of Lodonito Spinello, and the Monument of Iames and Francis Sansouine, famous engrauers. In the Church of Saint Mary Zebenigo, the Monuments of Sebastian Fosearint, a Phylosopher, and of Ierome Molini, a Florentine Poet, and the picture of the Lords Supper. In the Church Saint Vitale, the artificiall statua of that Saint on horsebacke. In the Church Saint Angelo, built by the family of the Morosmi, the Altar of the holy Sacrament. In the Church of Saint Fantino, the Architecture, and among other Images, the head of a Crucifix, and the singular Images of the bles∣sed Virgin, and Saint Iohn, painted standing by the Crosse. In the Vestry of Saint Fan∣tino (whose Monkes vse to accompany and comfort those that are executed) the two

Altars, and in the first of them the brasen Images of the blessed Virgin and Saint Iohn, and in the second the excellent Marble Image of Saint Ierome. In the Parish Church of Saint Luke, seated in the middest of the City, amonument of foure most learned men, and another of Peter Aretine, called the scourge of Princes, are the most remark∣able things. The Inquisitors worthily condemned the bookes of this Aretine, for the filthinesse of them (howsoeuer they be yet commonly sold) and the common re∣port is, that they also commanded his horrible Epitaph to be blotted out, which was set in this Church of Saint Luke, in these words;

Qui gaice l'Aretin' Poeta Tusco, Chi disse mal' d'ogniun', four a che di Dio, Scusandosi, dicendo, is nol' conosco. Here lies the Aretine, a Poet of Tuscany, Who spake ill of all but of God, Excusing himselfe, saying, I know him not.

Of the same Aretine saith Ariosto:

Ecco il flagello de'i Principi, Il Diuin' Pietro Aretino Behold the scourge of Princes The Diuine Peter Arctine.

In the stately Church of Saint Saluatore, the Marble image of Saint Ierem, ano∣ther of him, and a third of Saint Laurence, and the great Altar of pure siluer, are cu∣riously ingrauen: and in the chappell of the holy Sacrament, the Image of Mary Magdalen; and in another chappell, the Image of Saint Augustine, praying among his Monkes; and not farre off two Images of the Monument erected to Duke Fran∣cis Venerio: all painted with great Art, and the Altar of the blessed Virgn equall, or to be preferred to the best in the City: the Altar of S^t Antony, and two Monuments of Dukes, all adorned with rare engrauen and painted Images, and a faire paire of Or∣gans. In the Church of Saint Bartholmew, the picture of Manna falling from heauen, and the brasen Images of Christ, of the foure Euangelists, 'and six Angels. In the Church of Saint Giuliano, many pictures, but especially that of Christ carrying his Crosse, and neere the doore another of Saint Ierome, and two Marble Images vpon the Altar. In the Church of Saint Stephen, rich with Marble and pillers, the Marble Images of the Apostles, with the pillars whereon they stand, and the Altar ingrauen with brasse, and the Monument of Iames Suriani, and another of Anthony Cornari with this inscription:

Antenij ad Cineres viator adsta Hic Cornarins ille, quem salebant, Rerum principia & Deos docentem Olim Antenoria stupere Athena, Accitus Patrias subinde adoras, Ornatus titulis fascibusque, Doctrina venetam beauit vrbem. At the ashes of Anthony, passenger stand, This is that Cornarius whom of old, Teaching the principles of Nature and the Gods, Antenors Athens was wont to admire. After called home to his Countrey, Graced with Titles and Magistracy, With his Learning he made Venice happy.

These things I say are in these Churches most remarkeable.

The second sextary on this side the channell, vulgarly Il sestiero di Castello, hath the name of the Castle Oliuolo, which seated towards the sea, may seeme to be diuided from the Citie, yet it is ioyned thereto by a long bridge. Of old it was a City by it selfe, and therefore the Dukes Throne being established in the Iland Realto, the Bi∣shops seat was made here, who is inuested by the Duke, and was consecrated by the Patriarke of Grado, till that being extinguished, this was raised to the dignity of a Pa∣triarke, in the yeere 1450. In the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, this is written vpon the Chappell in Latine;

Who ere thou be that approachest, worship: Within these grates of Iron the crosse is inclosed, that is adorned with three haires of the beard of Christ, with a naile, the cup in which he drunke to his Disciples, and with a peece of the true Crosse, &c.

This Patriarcall seat hath two old pulpits of marble, the monuments of the Bishops and Patriarkes, which with the adioining Pallace of the Patriarkes, are the most re∣markeable things thereof. In the Church of Iohn Baptist in Bragola, many curious pi∣ctures, the sepulcher of that Saint guilded ouer, the Image of Christ, the pictures of the lesse Altar, especially that of Christ baptised, that of Saint Hellen, that of Christs resurrection, and the liuely picture of Christ sitting with his Apostles at his last supper. In the Church of Saint Mary Formosa, this inscription is read; Vincentius Capellus most skilful in Nauigation, and Prefect of the Gallies, nolesse praised of old, who receiued signes of ho∣nour from Henry the seuenth, King of Britany, &c. There, vpon the great and very faire Altar, the Images of the foure Euangelists, and vpon the top, that of Christs resurre∣ction, and of two Angels. In the Church Saint Marina, the statua on horsebacke ere∣cted by the Senate to Tadeo della volpe of Imola, and the great Altar, with the pillars of prophry. In the Church of Saint Leone, the Images of Saint Ierome, of Christ at supper with his Disciples, of Iohn the Euangelist, and Saint Michaell, all painted by the hands of most skilfull workemen. In the Church of Saint Anthony, foure most faire Altars (in the second whereof the Image of Christ, and in the third rich with excellent pil∣lars, the History of ten thousand Martyres painted, and in the fourth the espousals of the blessed Virgin, areal painted with singular Art) and a foot statua erected by the Se∣nate to Victor Pisanus. In the Church of Saint Dominicke, the library, and pictures of the Altars. In the Church of Saint Francis di Paola, many things giuen vpon vow, and hung vpon the wals. In that of Saint Francis della vigna, a very faire and stately Church, the Altar of the Chappell belonging to the Family Grimani, and the pictures & brasen images of the same: and in the Chappell of the Family Dandoli, the picture of Saint Laurence martyred, and in the Chappell of the Iustiniani, being very rich, the Images of the foure Euangelists and twelue Prophets. In the Chappell of our Lady, the mo∣nument of Marke, Anthony, Morosini, Knight and Procurator (famous in the warre which the French King Lewis the twelth, made in Lombardy, and thrice Ambassador from the State) also the famous library of this monastery, and the bels (which they say were brought out of England after Queene Maries death.) In the Church of the Saints, Iohn and Paul, (being one of the chiefe Churches) the situation, the architecture, the pictures, and the monuments of sixteene Dukes; and another of Marke, Anthony, Bra∣gadini (who hauing defended the Iland Cyprus from the Turkes, when they tooke it, had his skinne fleed off, by the command of the tyrant, against his faith, in the yeere 1571.) Also three horsemens statuaes, one to Leonardo de Prato, Knight of Rhodes, ano∣ther to Nichola Orsino Count of Pitiglia, both erected in the Church, the third for greater honour erected in the market place, to Bartholmeo Coleoni of Bergamo, for his good seruice to the State in their Warres; all three crected by the Senate. Also a foot statua erected by the Senate, to Deunys Naldo, a most valiant Commander of their foote, and the stately sepulcher of Iames de Cauallis, and the Chappell of the Rossary (magnificall in the architecture, in rare marbles, in the art of engrauers, and excellent pictures, especially that of Christ crucified.) In the Church of Saint Mary delle Virgini, (a Cloyster of Nunnes, built by the Dukes, and belonging to them by speciall right) two marble sepulchers. In the Church Saint Gioseppe, the admirable monument of the Germani (with admirable Images engrauen of the Duke Grimani created, and his Dutchesse Morosini, crowned, and the like curiously wrought:) also the Image of Christ transfigured, and another of Christ buried, are the most remarkeable things. And whereas the grauen images of this Church, be of rare beauty, they say that the chiefe of them were brought out of England, after the death of Queene Mary. In the Church of Saint Fustina (a parish Church, and yet the chiefe cloyster of Nunnes, twice rebuilt by the family Morosini,) two curious statuaes of marble of Paros. In the Church of the Holy sepulcher, (being a cloyster of Nunnes) the sepulcher of Christ like that at Ierusalem, of ophites and like stones. In Saint Zachary a cloyster of Nunnes,

the pall of the Virgin painted, another like it in the chappell, the sepulcher or Altar vnder which the said Saint (father to Iohn Baptist) is laid, and at the backe of the great Altar, three sepulchers of Porphry and Ophyts, the stones of the great Altar, and the stately architecture of the Church, are the things most remarkeable: and the same cloyster hath great reuenues. In generall vnderstand that the Churches are for the most part built of bricke, and some few of free stone, though they be so couered with Marbles and like stones, as the bricke or free stone is scarce seene in the inside. In the Priory of S^t Iohn, belonging of old to the Templary Knights, & now to the Knights of Rhodes or Malta, it is remarkeable that the reuenues thereof be great, and that the Priory is giuen by the Pope, which Paul the third gaue to the Cardinall Saint Angelo his nephew (for so they call their bastards) whom Alexander the Cardinall of Farness succeeded, yet not as Cardinall, but as Knight of Malta, and after him the Pope gaue it to the Cardinall Ascanio Colonna. And the most remarkable things in the Church are the pall of the great Altar, the supper of our Lord painted, the picture of Christ speaking with the woman of Samaria, and that of Herods banquet, when he gaue Iohn Baptists head to Herodia. The Greeke Church belongs to this sextary, built in Rio di San' Lorenzo. The almes-house Saint Lazero, feeds foure hundred, or fiue hundred poore people; for all that beg are sent thither, and they haue many of these houses. These are the most remarkeable things in the Churches of this sextary.

The third sextary, or sixth part of the City on this side the channell (meaning to∣wards the gulfe of Venice) vulgarly is called Ilsestiero di Canaregio, of the canes or pipes which they were wont to vse in the building of ships. In the Church of the Prophet Ieremy (built by three families, Morosini, Malipieri, and Runandi, the sepulcher of Saint Magnus (who built eight Churches when the City was first founded) and the Image of the blessed Virgin much adored. In the Church of Saint Marciali, the Ima∣ges aswel of the great Altar, as of the Altar of Angelo Raphaeli. In the Apostles Church (where excellent sermons are made in the Lent,) the carued Image of our Lady vpon the Altar, and her picture vpon the same painted by Saint Luke. In the Church of Saint Iohn Chrysostome, the pictures of three Theologicall vertues, & of Saint Marke, and the carued Images of the Virgin, and the Apostles. In the Church of Saint Giob, the ingrauing of the chappell of the Grimani, and of the Altar of the Foscari; the pic∣ture of Christ in the garden, with his Apostles sleeping, and the pictures of the next Altar, namely, that of the Virgin, Saint Sabastian, and Saint Giob. In the Church of Saint Mary de serui, the pictures of the great Altar, especially of the Virgins assumption, and also of the Virgins Altar, and of Saint Augustins Altar, especiall that of the wise men adoring Christ, and the carued Images of another Altar, the Marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Vendramini, being the fairest of all other in the City, and the Orato∣ry of the banished men of Lucea, who first brought into this City the weauing of silke, and of whom many were made Gentlemen of Venice. In the Church of Saint Mary del' Orto, the huge Image of Saint Christopher, the History of Moses, and the prophicies of the last iudgement painted, the painting of the arched-roof, rare for per∣spectiue Art, and che chiefe of that kinde, the Monument of Iasper, Contarini Cardi∣nall, of the Marble of Paros, and the pillers of our Ladies Altar, with many Marble stones. In the Church of Saint Mary de Crostechieri, the ancient pictures, the notable pall of Saint Laurence, worth seuen thousand crownes, and the pictures in the chappel of Lewis Vsperi. In the Church of Saint Lucia, the Monument and chappell of the Saints. In the chappell of Saint Luigi, the great Altar, fairest of those built of wood. In the Church of Saint Mary of the Miracles, the fairest of any Nunnery, for the beauty and rare stones, the walles couered with Marble, two Marble Images of two children vnder the Organs, (the works of famous Praxitiles,) the Images of marble of Paros, the stones of Porphery and Ophytes wonderfully carued, the great Altar of Marble, ingrauen with great Art, the brasen Images of Saint Peter, Saint Paul, and of Angels. These are the things most remarkeable. In the Church of Saint Mary of Mercy, Sansouine witnesseth this Epitaph, (which I will set downe, left any should thinke incredible, the like practises of Papists against Emperours, and Iohn the King

of England,) in these words: To Ierom Sauina, a Citizen of Venice, Prior of Saint Ma∣ries, notably learned in good Arts; but more renowmed for piety, which hee also shewed at his death towards his enemy, who gaue him poyson in the challice at the Lords Supper, by many arguments of his charity. He died in the yeere MDCI. Also in the great schoole, the same is witnessed in these wordes: To Ierom Sauina wickedly killed by poyson giuen, (O horrible villany) in our Lords Supper, &c.

The fourth sextary or sixth part of the City, and first of those beyond the chan∣nell, (meaning towards the Territorie of Paduoa,) is vulgarly called of the chiefe Church Il sestiero di San' Polo. In which Church of Saint Paul, the most remarkea∣ble things are these: the picture of Christ washing his Apostles feet, the pall of siluer guilded, and the precious stones vpon the great Altar; the pictures of the Altar of the holy Sacrament, and of the blessed Virgin, and the Images of Saint Andrew and the Apostles vpon pillars. In the very faire market place of the same Church, of old a market was weekely held, and to the yeere 1292, the market was held heere on Wednesday, and in the market place of Saint Marke, on the Saturday; but at this day none is held here, but both in the place of Saint Marke, for the benefit of those that dwell there, and that the houses may bee more deerely let, which belong to Saint Marke. Neere the Church of Saint Siluestro, the Patriarkes of Grado dwelt, till the Bi∣shop of Castello Oliuolo was made Patriarke. In the Church of Saint Iames of Rialto, narrow, but very faire, the precious stones and the pictures of great Art and antiqui∣tie, and the fiue Altars. In the Church of Saint Mary Gloriosa, faire and great, the Bel∣frey stately built, the Monument of the most famous Painter Titiano, two Images of Marble neere the great doore, the Marble Image of Saint Iohn, ouer against the Flo∣rentine chappell, the chancell paued with Marble and adorned with the grauen Ima∣ges of the Prophets, at the charge of the family Morosini; the rare pictures of the great Altar, the Epitaph of Francis Bernardo; who being imployed into England in his yong yeeres, made peace betweene King Henry, and the French King Francis, which many great men had attempted in vaine, and for this braue act was Knighted by both the Kings. These things in this church are most remarkeable.

The fifth sextary, and the second beyond the channel of the chiefe Church, is cal∣led il Sestiero di Santa Croce: in which Church, being a cloyster of Nunnes, Duke Dominick Morosini lies buried, with this inscription: Here lies Dominick Morosini Duke of Venice, with Sophia his Dutchesse; hee was a good Duke, and most wise, full of faith and truth; &c. He tooke the City Tyrus, and vnder him Istria and Pola were subdued with fifty gallies, where of were Captaines his sonne, and Marino Gradonico. This glorious Duke died in the yeere MCLVI. Also the Marble pillers of the great Altar, the brasen Angels, and the brasen Images, of Christ rising from the dead, of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony. In the Church of Saint Simion Prophet, the picture of Christs supper with his Apostles. In the Church of S^t. Giacomo dell' Orio, a piller estee∣med for a Iewell, a Marble pulpit, one of the fairest in the City, and the Images of the chappell for christning. In the Church of Saint Eustace, the pictures of Christ whipped, of Christ carrying his crosse, and of Christ praying in the garden, all of great Art. In the Church of Saint Mary Mater Domini, the great Altar of most pure siluer, and the passion of Christ ingrauen, the Altar of the blessed Virgin with her picture; and the Altar of the holy Sacrament with the rich Porphery and Ophyte stones; and the Marble Images of Saint Marke, and Saint Iohn the Euangelist. In the Church of Saint Andrew, the fairest of this sextary, and a cloyster of Nunnes, the pictures of Christ crucified, and of his supper with his Apostles, and the most faire Altars of the Virgin, Saint Anthony, and Saint Nicholas. In the Church of Saint George the greater, (giuing name to the Iland in which it is seated, ouer against the market place of Saint Marke, and the chiefe Church next that of Saint Marke,) the pall of the great Altar, and the brasen Images; two brasen Images of the Organs, the seats of the wal-nut tree wonderfully ingrauen, another Altar built by Vincent, Moro∣sini, the Altar of Saint Stephen the first Martyr; the Altar of the blessed Virgin and her Image, the Altar of Saint Lutia with her Image, and the wonderfull crucifix of

another Altar. In the Church of Saint Mary delle gratie, the infinite gifts hung vp there vpon vowes. In the Church of the Holy Ghost, the Pall of the great Altar, and the marble stones and pillars, and the brasen candlestickes, and a skreene of brasse guilded, and the pictures of Saint Markes Altar, the candlesticke of the great chappel, curiously carued, the rare Images and arched roofe of the Altar of the Cratch; being all the worke of the famous Painter Titiano, whose rare image also the Friars haue: and in the publike refectory of the Friars, the admirable pictures of the resurrection, of Sampson, and especially of Christ supping with his Apostles. In the monastery of Saint Hellen, (giuing name to the Iland, and founded by Alexander Boromeo, and be∣ing one of the fairest in the City) a crosse of inestimable value. In the Church of Saint Andrew della Certosa, the monument of Austine Barbadici, who hartening the confede∣rates to fight, was chiefe cause of the victory against the Turkes by sea, in the yeere 1571. and while he liued, by faire and rough tearmes, kept the league vnbroken, which presently vpon his death was dissolued. In the Church of Saint Nicholas del Li∣ro, the sepulcher of Duke Dominicke Contarini, rich with porphery and ophyte stones, and a well of fresh water, lying very neere the sea, and hauing so full a spring, as it ser∣ueth all the shippes and gallies. The almes-house of Saint Lazerus, is built for lepers. The old Lazereto is a pest-house, where the Prior and Physitians haue yeerely fee to attend the sicke. Not farre from that, is the new Lazareto, whither they are sent who are suspected to haue the plague: but as soone as they begin to be sicke, they are sent thence to the old Lazareto: and hither all suspected men are sent to try their health, which if they keepe for forty daies, then they are set free. These things are in this sex∣tary most remarkeable.

The sixth sextary, and the third and last beyond the channell, is of the forme of the Iland, called Il sestiero di dorso duro. In the Church of the Saints, Geruaso and Protese, the grauen Images and pictures in the chappell of the holy sacrament. In the cloyster of Saint Agnes, the Prioresse bringeth vp six Virgins, which being of ripe yeeres, are either married or made Nunnes, and sixe more of good families sent thither in their place. In the Church of Saint Gregory, there is a second monument erected to Anthony Bragadini, traiterously slaine by the Turkes at the taking of Cyprus. The Iland Giudecca belongs to this sextary, the chiefe Church whereof is Saint Eufemia, it hauing nine other Churches. The Church of the Iesuites is called Saint Mary of Humblenes, and it hath pictured with great art the pals of the passion of Christ, of the Apostles Peter and Paul, of Christ circumcised, and of Saint Francis, and the great Altar is one of the fairest in the City. In the Church Carmini, a singular paire of Organs; the Images of the blessed virgins, foure Euangelists, and Christ crucified: and vpon the altar of Christ crucified, two stones shining like christall, which are esteemed for iewels. In the Church of Saint Mary of Charity, the rich chappell of San Saluadore. In the most faire Church of the Capuchine Friars, seated in the Iland Giudecca, the images of brasse, and the faire screene of the great Altar. In the most faire Church of Saint Mary the grea∣ter, being a Nunnery, the rare pictures of the greater chappell. In the Church of the holy crosse Della Giudecca, the monument of the Cardinall Francis Morosini, sent Am∣bassador to the Turke, and Nuncio to Pope Sixtus the fifth, in the French Court: and here the rest of his Family vse to be buried. The Monastery of the conuerted is for whores repenting. Another is built for Orphan Virgins, the Church whereof hath rich screenes of marble, with brasse images: and in the same liue some two hundred and fifty Virgins of almes, and by the worke of their hands, which comming to ripe yeeres, are either married or made Nunnes. These things are in this sextary most re∣markeable.

The Venetians haue six fraternities or great schooles, such as be also at Rome, and the Gentlemen and Citizens all giue their names to one of them, as in England at Lon∣don, the Citizens haue companies, into which the King, Queene, and Nobles, many times vouchsafe to be admitted. And in these schooles, as it were in Vniuersities, they vse to haue exercises of religion. The first of them is called Saint Mary of Charity, af∣ter the rule whereof, the rest are framed, and the great Guardian thereof is chosen yeer∣ly,

and weares a skarlet gowne with large sleeues, which they call Ducall sleeues, and he hath the title of Magnifito by priuiledge. These schooles giue dowries yeerely to 1500. Virgins, and distribute among the poore much money, meale, and clothes: for besides many gifts by last testaments daily giuen to those vses, each of the schooles hath some fiue or sixe thousand duckets in yeerely reuenew, and they are gouerned like common wealthes. In the said schoole, the Images of the Apostles, and the pi∣ctures, especially one of the blessed Virgin, and another of the foure Doctors of the Church, are very faire. In the schoole of Saint Iohn the Euangelist, the passion of Christ is wonderfully figured, and Phillip the second King of Spaine, and his sonne Fer∣dinand, and Don Iohn of Austria, and other Princes, haue beene of this fraternity. The third is of mercy. The fourth of Saint Marke. The fifth of Saint Rocco, passing the rest in ceremonies & pompe, and number of brethren. The sixth is of Saint Theodore, and each of these hath his Church and Pallace, and precious monuments, and these are subiect to the counsell of ten; for there be many lesse schooles, each art hauing his schoole, and these are subiect to the old Iustice, and out of them when need is, souldiers are pressed.

It remaines to adde something of the magnificall building of this City. And in the first place, the market place of Saint Marke is paued with bricke, and it consists of foure market places, ioined in one; whereof two may rather be called the market places of the Dukes Pallace (ioining to the Church of Saint Marke) the one being on the fur∣thest side from Saint Marke, betweene the pallace aud the great channell, the other right before the pallace towards the channell, foure hundred foot in length, and some one hundred and thirty in bredth. The third is before the Church doore of Saint Mark, and lies in length fiue hundred and twenty foot towards the Church of Saint Gemini∣ano, and hath one hundred and thirty foot in bredth, which may more properly be called the market place of Saint Marke. The fourth is on the other side of the Church, towards the Church of Saint Basso. In this market place of foure ioined in one, are so∣lemne spectacles or shewes, and all processions made, and there on Ascention day, is the Faire held, and the markets on wednesday and saterday: there they vse to muster souldiers; and there the gentlemen and strangers daily meet and walke. Before the doore of Saint Markes Church, are three peeces of brasse carued, and for bignesse like the bodies of trees, vpon which at festiuall daies three rich banners are hung, in signe of liberty, or as others say, for the three Dominions of Venice, Cypro, and Candia.

Vnder the tower of the Clocke, fifty foot distant from Saint Markes Church, is a passage to and from this market place; and this tower all couered with marble, beares a remarkeable Clocke, which sheweth the course of the Sunne and the Moone daily, and the degrees they passe, and when they enter into a new signe of the Zodiacke, and aboue that the guilded Image of our Lady shineth, placed betweene two doores, out of one of which doores, onely at solemne Feasts, an Angell with a Trumpet, and the three Wise Men of the East following, passe before our Ladies Image, and adore her, and so goe in at the other doore. Aboue that, there is a carued Image of a Lyon with wings, and vpon the very top, two brasen Images, called the Mores, which by turnes striking with a hammer vpon a great bell, sound the houres.

The houses opposite to the Pallaces of the Procurators of Saint Marke, are called the houses of the State, and they belong to the Church of Saint Marke, and hauing some fifty shops vnder the Arches of the vpper roofes (where men may walke dry when it raines) they yeeld great rents to the Church. Opposite to these are the Palla∣ces of the said Procurators, which are also in the said market place, which I said to be more properly called the market place of Saint Marke, and these being stately built, sixty sixe foot high, and the stones curiously carued, doe not onely adorne the market place, but in summer giue a pleasant shade to passengers, besides that vnder the Ar∣ches of them, men may walke drie in the greatest raine, and the shops vnder these Ar∣ches yeeld great rents, and vnder these Pallaces out of foure little streetes there be so many passages to and from the market place. These Pallaces are built at the charge of the State, the nine Procurators being to haue nine Pallaces: for as yet they were not

all built; but in the meane time any pallace falling voide, it was giuen to the eldest of them that had none, yet not according to their age, but according to their election.

The steeple or belfrey of Saint Marke, distant some eighty foote from the Church, and set ouer against it, is to be admired, not onely for the foundation, strangely laid vnder the earth; but also for many other causes. It is built foure square, each square containing forty foot, and it is three hundred thirty three foot high, of which feet the pinacle containes ninety sixe, and the woodden Image of an Angell aboue the pinacle couered with brasse and guilded, and turning with the wind, containes sixteene feete. It is adorned with high pillars of marble, and with a gallery at the bottome of the pi∣nacle, made with many pillars of brasse, and vpon the pinacle with great marble Ima∣ges of Lyons, and from the top in a cleere day, men may see a hundred miles off the ships vnder sayles; and it beares foure great bels, whereof the greater called La Trottie∣ra, is rung euery day at noone, and when the Gentlemen meet in Senate with like oc∣casions: but when a new Pope or Duke is made, all the bels are rung, and the steeple is set round about with waxe candles burning. I went to the top of this steeple, which hath thirty seuen ascents, whereof each hath foureteene lesse ascents, by which the going vp is as easie, as if a man walked on plaine ground, at the contriuing whereof I much wondered. In the lodge of this steeple, the foure brasen Images of Pallas, Apollo, Mercury, and of Peace, and aboue them, the figure of Venice, with the Dominion by sea and land, and the Image of Venus the Goddesse of Cyprus, and of Iupiter the King of Candia, present themselues, and neere the great gate the Images of the blessed Virgin and of Saint Iohn Baptist, are highly valued.

Right ouer against the Dukes Pallace, in the foresaid second market place of the pallace, is the library, whose building is remarkable, and the architecture of the corner next the market place of the Bakers, is held by great Artists a rare worke, and diuers carued Images of Heathen Gods, and Goddesses in the old habit, are no lesse praised, as done by the hands of most skilfull workemen. On the inside, the arched roofes cu∣riously painted, and the little study of iuory, with pillars of Allablaster, and rare stones, and carued Images (in which an old breniary of written hand, and much esteemed, is kept) are things very remarkeable. The inner chamber is called the study; in which many statuaes and halfe statuaes, twelue heads of Emperors, and other things giuen to the State by Cardinall Dominicke Grimani, are esteemed precious by all antiquaries. And in this Library are laid vp the Bookes, which the Patriarke and Cardinall Bessa∣rione gane to Saint Marke (that is to the State) by his last will, and the most rare books brought from Constantinople at the taking thereof, and otherwise gathered from all parts of Greece. Out of this Library is a passage, to the chambers of the Procurators of Saint Marke: before you enter them most faire statuaes, aud on the inside rare pi∣ctures, draw your eies to them.

Not farre from thence are two pillars (the third whereof in taking them out of the ship, fell into the sea, and could neuer be recouered) and they be of huge bignesse; for the erecting whereof, as a most difficult thing, great rewards were giuen to a Lumbard, and immunity was giuen to him by priuiledge, for all that should play at dice vnder them. Since it is accustomed, that all condemned men are executed betweene these pillars, which of old were put to death neere the Church of Saint Iohn Bragola, and vpon one of these pillars stands the brasen statua of Saint Marke, vnder the forme of a Lyon, and vpon the other stands the marble statua of Saint Theodor. The statua of Saint George beares a shield, in token that Venice rather defends it selfe, then offends others, since the right hand carries a defensiue weapon.

Behind the Library is the Mint house (vulgarly called La zecca, whereupon I thinke the gold coyne of the Venetians is called Zecchino) in which house it is remarkeable, that there is no wood in any part thereof, but for feare of fire it is all built with stone, bricke, and barres of iron. Here the great statuaes of Gyants, lifting vp their massie clubs, as it were forbidding the entrance; and in the court yard the statua of Apollo, holding wedges of gold in his hand, to shew that gold is made to grow in the bowels of the earth by the vertue of the sunne, are things remarkeable.

From hence on rhe left hand is the market place, which I said to be the first of the Pallace, seated betweene the channell the Pallace. And from hence on the right hand is the fish market, in which (as likewise in that of Rialto) store of good fish is to bee bought twice in the day.

The market place in which the said Bel-frey and Library are built, is also adorned with the stately Pallace of the Duke, all couered with Marble, and most sumptuous in the carued Images and pictures, and in the pillers of the Arched walke on the out∣side. The first staires towards the second market place of the Pallace, and ouer against the said Library, are very stately, and are vulgarly called Scala de Giganti, that is the staires of the Giants, so called of two huge Marble statuaes of Mars and Neptune, which the common people call Giants. But the Pallace hath many other staires, whereby men ascend thereunto. Opposite to the aforesaid statuaes, are two other of Adam and Eue, but not so great as they: and not farre from thence is a stone guilded, with an inscription which the Senate placed there, in memory of the French King Henry the third, whom they entertained, passing that way from Poland into France. On the left hand is the Chappell of Saint Nicholas, which is the Dukes priuate Chap∣pell. Hence you ascend into a large Hall (as they call it) or a large Gallery; in the middest whereof the golden staites shine with gold, and two marble Images and rare pictures. On the left hand of the said staires, is the passage to that part of the Pal∣lace, which is assigned to the Duke for his dwelling, and in the first chamber, called the Dukes Armes, Sala del seudo, the pictures of Christs resurrection, and another of him crucified, are much praised, though it hath many other rare pictures. When you haue ascended the golden staires, your shall see foure rare pictures. From thence the way on the left hand leads to the Chancery, where many chambers are adioyning, proper to diuers Councels of State, all adorned with grauen Images and pictures of the best; namely, the chambers of the Councell rich in the painting of the arched roofe. That of the Pregadi, hauing generall rare painting and caruing. That called Ia secreta, in which the secret writings of the State is laied vp. The Chappell of the Colledge, where the Duke and the Senators daily heare Masse, and it appeares by an inscription, that the Antiquities were of old laid vp there, among the pictures where∣of, that of Christs resurrection, and the Map of the Territory of Venlce, are much praised. That of the Councell of Tenn, in which the picture of the Wise-men offe∣ring gifts to Christ is much praised, (neere the same are chambers, in which many rich Armors and rare Monuments are laid vp.) And that of the great Councell, one hundred fifty foot in length, and seuenty foure in breadth, adorned round about with rare pictures, namely on the side towards the foresaid second market place of the Pal∣lace, the History of Frederlcke the Emperour, and of Pope Alexander the third is cur∣sorily painted. Towards the foresaid first market place, lying betweene the Pallace and the channel, the History of Constantinople, taken by the Venetians and French, is painted; and the capitulation of the voyage, made in the Church, and the rest of the Saints in heauen, are reputed rare workes.

The prisons of old were vnder this Pallace of the Duke, but lately a new house is stately built of the stone of I stria, for that vse neere the bridge Della Paglia.

The foure square market place of Rialto, is compassed with publike houses, vnder the arches whereof, and in the middle part lying open, the Merchants meet. And there is also a peculiar place where the Gentlemen meet before noone, as they meet in the place of Saint Marke towards euening; and here to nourish acquaintance, they spend an houre in discourses, and because they vse not to make feasts one to another, they keepe this meeting as strictly as Merchants, lest their frinship should decay. The Gold-smiths shoppes lie thereby, and ouer against them the shoppes of Iewellers, in which Art the Venetians are excellent. There is the Pallace of a Gentleman, who prouing a Traytor, the State (for his reproch) turned the same into a shambles, and some vpper chambers to places of iudgement. The fish market lies by this shambles, a great length along the banke of the great channell, and in the same shambles and fish market, as also in the like of Saint Marke, great plenty of victuals, especially of fish, is daily to be sold. A publike Pallace stately built lieth neere the bridge of Rialto.

This bridge in the iudgement of the Venetians, deserues to be reputed the eighth miracle of the world. The old being pulled downe, this new bridge began to bee built in the yeere 1588, and was scarce finished in three yeeres, and is said to haue cost two hundred fifty thousand Duckets. It is built of the stone of Istria, vpon one arch ouer the great channell, and the ascent to the toppe hath thirty sixe staires on each side, and vpon each side of these staires, are twelue little shoppes couered with lead: not to speake of the carued Images, of the blessed Virgin, the Angell Gabriel, and the two protecting Saints of the City, namely Saint Marke, and Saint Theodore.

Thereby is a Pallace called Il Fontico de i Todeschi, because the Dutch Merchants haue it to their vse.

The Armory built for all kinde of Armes & Munitions, vulgarly called l' Arsenale, as it were the Tower of the Senate, is compassed with walles being in circuit more then two miles, where some foure hundred Artificers are daily set on worke about na∣ual prouisions, and they receiue weekely for wages about one thousand two hundred duckets. Within the same is a seueral place to make cables, & within the circuit hereof and no where else in the City, they build Ships and Gallies, and there bee alwayes in the same about two hundred gallies ready for seruice. To conclude, the State of Ve∣nice, being not growne to full strength, did in a hundred daies space, arme one hun∣dred gallies against Emanuel Emperour of the East, and no doubt their strength hath euery day growne greater to this time. In the said compasse of the Armory, lies a great boat called Il Bucentoro, because it carries about the number of two hundred; which boat hath vpon it a kinde of chamber which vseth to be richly hung, and coue∣red ouer, when in the same the Duke and Senators be carried by water at some times of solemnity, especially at the feast of the Ascention, when of an old custome, they goe forth to espouse the sea, by the ceremony of flinging a ring into the same, and to challenge the command thereof, giuen them by Pope Alexander the third.

The Iewes haue a place to dwell in seuerally, called Il Ghetto, where each family hath a little house, and all haue one court-yard common, so as they liue as it were in a Colledge, or Almes-house, and may not come forth after the gates are locked at night, and in the day they are bound to weare a yellow cap.

Though the City bee seated vpon little and narrow Ilands, in the middest of marshes and tides of the sea; yet hath it gardens in great number, and abounding with rare herbes, plants, and fruits, and water conduits, which with thecarued Images and pictures, (out of the Gentlemens curtesie) may bee seene by any curious stranger.

The publike Libraries of speciall note are these: Di S Giouanni & Paolo: di San' Francesco: di San' Stefano: di San' Georgio Maggiore: and di Sant' Antonio. Also pri∣uate Libraries may be found out by those that be curious, and will bee after the same manner easily shewed them, and are indeede most worthy to bee sought out for the rarenesse of many instruments, pictures, carued Images, Antiquities, and like rare things: For the Venetians being most sparing in diet and apparell, doe exercise their magnisicence in these and the like delights, and these precious Monuments, they will with great curtesie shew to any strangers, or to any louing antiquities, which my self-found by experience, more-specially at the hands of Sig^r. Nicolao vendramini, a Gen∣tleman dwelling in the Iland Giue decca, who most curteously shewed mee and my friends, though being altogether vnknowne to him, some rare clockes, admirable car∣ued Images, and a paire of Organs hauing strange varieties of sounds.

The Pallaces of Gentlemen were called houses, but are, and worthily deserue to be called Pallaces, some hundred of them being fit to receiue Princes. For howsoeuer this Common-wealth at the first founding, was tied by many lawes to mediocri∣ty, and the equality among the Citizens, yet pride hath by degrees seised vpon the same. The said Pallaces haue one doore towards the Land, and another towards the water, and most of them haue gardens. The foundations are laid of Oake in the waters, and the stone of Istria is much esteemed. The flooers of the vpper roomes are not boorded, but plastred with lime tempred with tiles beaten to dust. The win∣dowes

are for the most part very large, the greater roomes lying almost altogether open to receiue aire, but the lodging chambers haue glasse windowes, whereof the Venetians brag, glasse being rare in Italy, where the windowes are for the most part couered with linnen or paper. And howsoeuer glasse be common with vs on this side the Alpes, yet it is certaine that the glasse makers of Venice, dwelling in the Iland Mu∣rano, haue a more noble matter, & thereof make much better glasse then we can. To conclude, as I said the Venctians are most sparing in diet and apparel, so not onely in the building of their houses, but in the furniture thereof, the general sort passeth their degree, and many of the Gentlemen vse Princely magnificence. These are accoun∣ted the chiefe Pallaces: That belonging to the Procurators office, neere the Church of Saint Anthony. The old Pallace which belonged to the Templary Knights. That of the family Gritti neere the bridge Della Madonna. That of Alexander Gritti, neere the market place of Saint Iohn Bragora. That of Dandoli, neere the bridge Della Paglia. The Pallace neere Saint Francis Church, which the Senate bought, and vse to assigne it to the dwelling of the Popes Nuncio. That of the Dutchesse of Florence, built vp∣on the channell of the Dukes Pallace. That of the Vetturi, neere the market place of Saint Mary. That of the Patriarke Grimani, neere the Malipieri. That of the family Georgij, neere the same. That of Francis Priuli. That of Lodwick Georgij. That of the Capelli. That of Peter Giustniani. That of those of Pesaro, neere the Church of S^t. Benedict. That of the Loredani neere Saint Stephens Church. That of Zeni. That of Contarini. That of Siluester Valierij, neere the Church of Saint Iob. That of the Cornari, neere Saint Pauls Church. That of Iames Foscarini, neere the Church Car∣meni, That of the Michaeli, neere Saint Lewis Church. That of Lewis Theophili, neere the Church Della Misericordia. The chiefe Pallaces vpon the channell are these. That of the Loredani. That of the Grimani, neere Saint Lucia. That of Delphini. That of the Cornari, neere Saint Maurice Church, and that of the Foscarini, an old buil∣ding but hauing the best prospect of all the rest. In which the Venetians entertained the French King Henry the third. To conclude, there be two rich Pallaces in the Iland Giudecca, one of the Dandoli, the other of the Vendramini.

In this famous City are twenty thousand families, and three thousand of the Gen∣tlemen, and no age hath beene so barren, which hath not yeelded worthy men for Martiall and ciuill gouernment and learning. Of this City haue beene three Popes, Gregory the twelfth, Eugenius the fourth, and Paul the second, and many Cardinalls of which these are the chiefe: Peter Morosini, Marke I andi, Anthony Corari, Iohn Ami∣deus, and in our age Iohn Baptist Zeni, and Dominick Grimani. Also Peter Bembus was a Venetian, whom Pope Paul the third made Cardinall. Heere was borne Pan∣talean Iustinianus, Patriarke of Consiantinople when the French ruled there. And Ve∣nice hath yeelded many most learned men, Andrew Dandoli, Duke Francis Barbarigi, Andrew Morosini, who wrote the History of his time in Heroique Verse. And many famous Ciuill Lawyers, Lodwicke Foscarini, and Ierom Donati. And many rare en∣grauers, and painters, Titiano, Tenterotto, and Belino. And many Commanders in the warre, Iohn Bolari, Marino Gradinici, Dominick Morosini, (the first prouisors of Military affaires,). Andrew Morosini, and Simion Dandoli, and many more famous in all kindes of vertue, to the chiefe whereof I haue said, that the Senate erected many Statuaes and Monuments. Giue me leaue to adde this of the family Morosini, name∣ly, that among the most famous men, whose pictures were in the chamber of publike meeting, before it was burnt; there were the pictures of Barbaro and Marco, and Autonia, Morosini: And that the same family hath giuen three Dukes, Dominico, Ma∣rino, and Michaele; and three Patriarkes, and twelue Procurators of Saint Marke, (which number few families haue attained, onely that of the Contarini, that of the Iustiniani, and that of the Grimani, haue a little passed it). And that my selfe being at Venice, found there eighty Gentlemen of this name. Let the Reader pardon this ob∣seruation, which I make for the Confonancy of that name with my owne, onely dif∣fering in the placing of a vowell, for more gentle pronuntiation, which the Italian speech affecteth; yet these Gentlemen being of one family, write their names some∣what

diuersity, some writing in their owne tongue Morosini, others Moresini, and in the Latin tongue, Morocenus, and Maurocenus.

Of the hiring of chambers, and the manner of diet in Venice, I haue spoken iointly with that of Paduoa, in the discription of that City, onely I will adde, that this City a∣boundeth with good fish, which are twice each day to be sold in two markets of Saint Marke & Rialto, & that it spendeth weekly fiue hundred Oxen, & two hundred & fifty Calues, besides great numbers of young Goates, Hens, and many kinds of birds, be∣sides that it aboundeth with sea birds, whereof the Venetian writers make two hun∣dred kinds, and likewise aboundeth with sauoury fruits, and many salted and dried dainties, and with all manner of victuals, in such sort as they impart them to other Ci∣ties. I will also adde that here is great concourse of all nations, as well for the pleasure the City yeeldeth, as for the free conuersation; and especially for the commodity of trafficke. That in no place is to be found in one market place such variety of apparell, languages, and manners. That in the publike Innes a chamber may be hired for foure sols a day; but for the cheapenes and good dressing of meat, most men vse to hire pri∣uate chambers, and dresse their owne meat. That in the Dutch Inne each man paies two lires a meale. That no stranger may lie in the City more then a night, without leaue of the Magistrates appointed for that purpose; but the next day telling them some pretended causes of your comming to the Towne, they will easily grant you leaue to stay longer, and after that you shall be no more troubled, how long soeuer you stay, onely your Host after certaine daies giueth them account of you. To con∣clude this most noble City, as well for the situation, freeing them from enemies, as for the freedome of the Common-wealth, preserued from the first founding, and for the freedome which the Citizens and very strangers haue, to inioy their goods, and dispose of them, and for manifold other causes, is worthily called in Latine Venetia, as it were Veni etiam, that is, come againe.

From Venice to Farraria are eighty fiue miles by water and land: and vpon the third of February (after the new stile) and in the yeere 1594. (as the Italians begin the yeere * 1.71 the first of Ianuary) and vpon Wednesday in the euening, my selfe with two Dutch∣men, my consorts in this iourney, went into the Barke, which weekely passeth be∣twixt Venice and Ferrara. The same night we passed twenty fiue miles vpon the mar∣shes, within the sea banke, to Chioza or Chioggia, or (to speake vulgarly, the better to be vnderstood in asking the way) a Chioza, the first village on firme land, or rather sea∣ted in an Iland, where the Ditch Clodia maketh a Hauen. The next morning in the same Barke we entred the Riuer, and passed fifteene miles to the Village Lorea, and af∣ter dinner ten miles in the territory of Venice, and eight miles in the Dukedome of Fer∣varia to Popaci, and vpon Friday in the morning twenty two miles to Francoline, where we paid for our passage from Venice thither, each man three lires and a halfe. By the way on land vpon both sides the Riuer, we passed a pleasant plaine, and fields of come diuided by furrowes, in which furrowes Elmes were planted, and vpon them Vines grew vp to the tops. Such is the manuring of Lombardy, or the Lower part of Italy to∣wards the West, where the Vines growing high, yeeld not so rich wines, as in the other parts of Italy vpon mountaines and hils, vpon the sides whereof the Vines sup∣ported with short stakes, and growing not high, yeeld much richer wines. By this way our Barke staied many times in Villages, where we had time to eat, or to prouide victu∣als to be carried with vs; and we had an Ingistar, or measure of wine, something grea∣ter then our pint, for three sols of Venice: we bought bread after the weight, for they haue loaues of all prices, in which a stranger cannot be deceiued. It is the fashion to see the meat in the kitchin, and to agree of the price before you eate it, which if you doe not, you shall be subiect to the Hosts insatiable auarice, who take pleasure to deceiue strangers. And the price of the meats you may vnderstand, by the Italians, whom you shall see buy of the same. And if the decrenesse displease you, you may carry drie figs and raisons, and dine with them, the price of bread and wine being certaine; but you must sup at your Hosts Ordinary, if you will haue a bed. I said that we left our Barke at Francoline, where we might haue hired a coach to Ferraria, for which we three should

haue paied twenty two bolinei, but the way being pleasant to walke, we chose rather to goe these fiue miles on foot.

Ferraria is a very strong City of Fiaminia, and neere the City, the Riuer Po diui∣ding it selfe, hath made a long and broad Iland, which now is growne to firme land. * 1.72 It was compassed with walles by the Exarches of the Easterne Emperors, Lords there∣of, and after it was subiect to the Bishops of Raucnna; then it came into the hands of the Princes of the family of Este, the lawfull heires whereof possessed it to the yeer 1394, when it passed to the line of Bastards. These Princes of Este were at first Marquesses, and afterwards were created Dukes, and Hercules of Este was the third Duke, who liued about the yeere 1550. At this day the family of Este being extinct, the Bi∣shop of Rome hath inuaded this Dukedome. The City seated in a plaine, is compas∣sed with a fenny banke, and is of a triangular forme, the three corners being towards the North, West and South. On the South side the riuer Po did runne of old, but it hath now left his bed, which is dried vp to firme land. But the lesse branch thereof runneth from Francoline to Chioza, where it fals into the sea, the greater making many lakes at Comatio, yeelds the Duke much profit by the fishing of eeles. In the heart of the City is a large market place, and ioyning thereunto a little Iland, in which the father of Hercules of Este built a stately Pallace, called Belueder, and in the market place before the doore of the Pallace, there is a statua sitting in a chaire, erected to Duke Burso, and another of a horse-man, and of brasse erected to Duke Nicholas. The streets are broad, and very dirty in winter, and no lesse subiect to dust in sum∣mer. The houses are built of free-stone, but according to the building of Italy, are almost flat vpon the top, so as that vpper roofe hath neither chambers nor windowes. The houses are not built one neere the other, but diuided with most pleasant gardens, and dispersed.

On the North side of the City without the walles, the Duke hath a large Parke for hunting, and to keepe therein many strange beasts. There be two stately Pallaces be∣sides the Dukes; one of the Bentiuoli, the other of Caesar, Nephew to Duke Alfonso, who being eighty yeeres old, begot him of a Concubine; and because the Popes had intruded themselues into the succession of this Dukedome, which this holy mother the Church daily gaped to enioy, vpon the want of lawfull heires males; the Duke could not obtaine by intreaty, or any money, to haue the right of succession conuai∣ed to this Nephew. And howsoeuer he were now eighty yeeres old, yet the opinion of his command in miltary affaires, made the common people report, that the Pope would grant the succession to his Nephew, vpon condition he should lead an Army into Hungary against the Turkes. But the euent shewed, that the Popes thought no∣thing lesse: for this Caesar defending his possession fearefully, the Popes haue since that time, and long before I wrote this, inuaded this Dukedome, and vnited it to the Patrimony of Saint Peter. The circuit of the City is said to containe seuen miles, and in the same is an Vniuersity little frequented, and a faire Colledge wherein the professors read. The Duke hath two stables, in the one, one hundred twenty horses for coaches, in the other fifty for the saddle. In the Beneuentane Monastery, is the se∣pulcher of the Poet Ariosto, borne in this City, and it is of red Marble, with this in∣scription in Latine;

To Lodwick Ariosto Poet, a Patrician of Ferraria, Augustine Musicus, to so great a man and so well deseruing of him, hath caused this Monument and Image of Marble to be ere∣cted at his owne proter cost, in the yeere of the Lord M D LXXIII, Alfonso the second being Duke: he liued LIX yeeres, and died in the yeere of the Lord M D XXXIII the eighth of the Ides of Iune.

The Statua of Marble is to the shoulder, and is set ouer his Tombe with those verses:

Hic Ariostus est situs, qui comico, Aures Theatri sparsit vrbanas sale; Satyra{que} mores strinxit acer improbos; Heroa culto qui furentem carmine Datum{que} curas cecinit, at{que} pralia;

Vates corona dignus vnus triplici, Cui trina constant, quae fuere vatibus, Graijs, Latinis, vix{que} Hetruscis singula. Here Ariosto lies, whose pen still feasts, The Ciuill eares on stage with comick ieasts, Whose Sayters scourg'd the foule sins of his time; Who sung the frantick worthy, in sweet ryme: Great Dukes, fierce battels, and their pensiue care. Thus hath one Poet, three crownes to his share; Greeke Poets, Latines, Tuscanes, each scarce one Of these attain'd, he hath all three alone.

In the Monastery Certosa there is a round pinacle, the Monument of Duke Borso. In the Church of Saint Mary of the Angels, are laid vp some trophies of victory against the Venetians, which when a Citizen of Ferrara shewed vpon a time to a Ve∣netian, in fashion of bragging, he answered pleasantly and wittily: to my remem∣brance, when you of Ferrara got this victory against vs, wee tooke the Countrey of Poleseno from you, and though we were ouercome yet we keepe that to this day. Ie∣rom Saucnorolla a Frier was born in this City, who in a late age was of great fame & au∣thority among the Florentines, and for some opinions of religion was burnt by the Pope. Here I paied thirty bolinei for a meale, in the chiefe Inne, where we were well vsed, when in baser Innes we had paied more with vile vsage.

From hence they reckon thirty foure miles to Bologna. Wee went on foot three miles to the village La Torre della fossa, and in the midst of the way, wee obserued the old bed of the Riuer Po, which was now dried vp. From hence we hired a boat for foure bolinei and foure quatrines, and passed in a broad ditch betweene high reedes, to a place called Mal' Albergo, that is, the ill lodging, being nine miles; and we vnderstood there, that foure souldiers were drowned the day before in the said ditch by their own folly, playing and tumbling in the boat. We had now passed seuen miles in the State of Bologno, and lodging here, each man paid for his supper sixteene bolinei. The next morning a boat went from hence to Bologna, but since they asked for each mans pas∣sage twenty two bolinei, and that the day was faire and the way very pleasant, we chose to goe on foot these eighteene miles to Bologna. In the mid-way we came to a Countrey Inne,. where they demanding excessiue prices for meat, we for sparing in the beginning of our long iourney, and loth to be made a prey out of their opinion of our gluttony, tooke bread and wine of them at the knowne price, and dined with some prouisions we had with vs; namely, one pound of Raisons, for which we had paid seuen bolinei, a pound of figges at the same price, and a pound of Almonds at the same price, bought at Ferraria to this purpose. After this refection we went the rest of our iourney through pleasant fields, manured after the Lumbard fashion, before discribed.

When we entred the gates of Bologna, the souldiers demanded a curtesie of vs, which wee gladly gaue them, perceiuing they would not search our portmanteaus, * 1.73 which otherwise by their office they may do. This is a City of Flaminia, of old subiect to the Exarchate of Rauenna, til the Eastern Emperors were cast out of Italy, by the con∣spiring of the Popes with the Kings of Lombardy, and so the Exarchate was vnited to that Kingdome, and shortly after the Popes likewise conspiring with the French King Charles the Great, against the Kings of Lombardy, and diuiding Italy betweene them, this City fell to the Popes share, howsoeuer they did not then attaine the possession thereof, or at least did not keepe it long: for afterwards the City was subiect to many tyrants, sometimes vnder the Vicounts of Milano, and at last inuaded by the Citizens thereof; namely the Family of Bentiuoli, vnder pretence to defend the common liber∣ty, till the Pope about the time of the French King Lewis the twelfth, conspiring with him to inuade Italy, did cast out the Bentiuoli, and by little and little reducing the Ci∣tizens to obedience, and vsing them to the Church gouernement, did at last set ouer them his Podesta, and a Cardinall Legate (both strangers) to gouerne them. This popu∣lous

City is of a round forme, and of great circuit, but the wals are round about almost fallen downe. The City is seated in a large plaine, and such is the whole territory, one∣ly on the South-side without the wals lie the Apennine mountaines, which diuide Italy almost in the midst, all the length thereof euen from Genoa, to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples, bordering vpon: he sea towards the East. On the same South-side, are the schooles of the Vniuersity, and the monastery of Saint Michaell, and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke, in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen, and of white marble, and vnder a rich skreene lies the body, which they superstitiously worship, and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath. Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat, is faire and large, and the Cellars of wine, and their store thereof are so great, as would better become the Temple of Bacchus, then a Cloyster of Monkes. It hath two foure-square Court yards, with arched Cloysters to walke vnder, and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars, of which they especially esteeme one, planted by the hands of that Saint, who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them. Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand, wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras. The building of this monastery is very stately, and it hath large galleries, as well below vnder the Arches, as round about in the vpperroofe. Here is a monument of Hans (that is Iohn) sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second, & they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall. The building of the City is anticke, and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards. The foundations of the houses are of free stone, and the rest for the most part of bricke, built with arched Cloysters towards the street, vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine. The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built to∣wards the street, stately on the inside, but with little shew on the outside, and they all seeme to haue beene built of old. The windowes are not glased (which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City, as a thing to be wondered at) but they are couered with paper, whereof part is oyled ouer. Towards the West side of the City, is a large mar∣ket place two forked, in which is a faire conduit of water, with the Images of Neptune, and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts, and all made of mettall. In this market place is the Senate-house, vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria, on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement, on the other the lodg∣ings of the Gouernour. At the very entry is a statua of brasse, erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth, a Citizen of Bologna, which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church: and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone, erected to Pope Paul the third, and another statua of a Gyant. The staires of the Pallace are made winding, and rising by little and little, giue so easie an ascent, as a horse may goe vp without difficul∣ty: (the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace, and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke, and at Torge a City of Germany.) Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second, Bishop (or rather the God Mars) of Rome, engrauen to his shoulders, with aleane and longface. Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters, that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there, when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head, in the Church of Saint Petronius, which Church is of the old Lombard building: and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City. Neere the state∣ly Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, is a house called the mountame of piety, where poore men may borrow money freely, bringing pawnes, to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury. Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower, called d' Asi∣nelli, built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires, which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe. From this Tower without the gates, all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses. At the gate of Saint Francis, is a pinacle with this inscription. The Sepuicher of Accursius, who wrote the glosse vpon the Law, Sonne to Francis H us. In the territory of this City is a medicinall water, found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy, of which is prouerbially said; Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta, O che lo spezza, o che lo netta, that is, He that drinkes the water of Porretta, either it bursts him, or els it cleanseth him. The strangers students here, call the stately Pallace of Cardinall

Caup: the sinnes of the Dutch, as built by the Fines imposed on them. We staid in this City two daies, and being three consorts, hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day, the Hostesse giuing vs linnen, and dressing our meat, and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei, (for they sell fresh water fish by the pound) for a pike the pound foure bolinei, for three apples two quatrines, for a pound of raisons foure boli∣nei, for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei; for an ingestar of wine (a measure some∣what bigger then the English pint) foure bolinei, for a wax candle six bolinei. It was now the time of Lent, and so we were forced to eat onely fish, as the Italians did.

In the territory of Bologna, there is a place almost an Iland, called Forcelli, which was an Iland of old, and Historians witnesse, that the Triumuiri, Augustus, Antonius, and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them.

From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence, which way I neuer passed, disposing (as I thought) my iourney more commodiously; yet for the direction of other passengers, it will not be amisse to set downe the way. From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles, to Lograno sixe, to Scaricalasino fiue, to Caurez three, to Fiorenzuola twelue, to Scarperia ten, to the bridge Saint Piero two, and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles.

At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses, being to returne twenty miles to Imola, and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse. By the way towards the South were pleasant hils, towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines. On the left hand to∣wards the North, were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described, and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro, (the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat, by the name of Castles.) When we entered the gates of Imola, according to the custome, we deliuered our swords to a boy, who was to carry them to our Host, that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne; and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper, and halfe a reale for our bed. The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza, through a sandy way, and a barren soyle, yeel∣ding some few vines growing vpon trees, and each man paid for his horse eight poli.

From hence our right way to Ancona, had beene to Forli Cesena, and Rimini; but our desire to see the old famous City of Rauenna, made vs goe out of the way twenty * 1.74 miles to the said City, through a dirty way, and fruitfull fields of corne; and each of vs paid seuen poli for his horse. Rauenna is a most ancient City, whose wals the Empe∣rour Tiberius either built or repaired. Here of old was the harbour for the nauie of Rome. Here the Emperour of the East, after the Westerne Empire was extinguished, made the seat of his Exarch. After, by the conspiring of the Popes, and the French Kings, Pipin and Charles the Great, all the Cities of this Exarchate fell to the Popes share. Yet others write that the French King onely added Tuseany to the Patrimony of Saint Peter; and it is most certaine that these Cities for long time did not acknow∣ledge the Pope for their Lord, till at last the Popes in like sort conspiring with the French Kings, Lewis the twelfth, and Charles the eight, had their aide to subdue these Cities, and then Pope Iulius the second by terrour of his excommunications extorted Rauenna and other Cities from the Venetians, and casting out the Lords of other Ci∣ties, the Popes from that time, being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters, haue got∣ten possession of all the territories, from the confines of the State of Venice, to Ferraria, Bologna, and along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea, to Ancona. It is said that Rauenna stands not now in his old place, for at this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea: but the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne, and vnfit to yeeld wine, and it is rich in pastures. The houses are built of bricke and flint stone, aud are so old as they seeme ready to fall. This City hauing been often taken by enemies, hath lost all the or∣naments which it had, from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy, and from the Bishops thereof, who were so powerfull, as they stroue long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome. On the North-side of the City lies the sea, but distant from the same, and without the wals is a wood of Pine-trees, and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old and most faire Church, Saint Mary the Round, whose roofe was admira∣ble, being of one stone, and in the same Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lom∣bard

King Theodoricus, which the souldiers pulled downe with the Church, to get the mettals thereof. On the East-side the sea lies some two Italian miles distant, where is the Hauen for ships, so much spoken of in the Roman Histories, where the nauy of Rome did winter, yet is it now neither conuenient nor secure for ships; neither indeed can any but very small boates come vp to the Towne. On the South-side without the golden gate (built by the Emperour Claudius) lie the ruines of a stately Pallace, built by the same King Theodoricus, and likewise of the City Caesaria. In a Chappell of the Cathedrall Church is a most rich Font, and they report that many Kingly monu∣ments were of old in this Church. In the market place lies a vessell of Porphry, a King∣ly monument, which the Citizens in the yeere 1564. brought from the foresaid sepul∣cher of King Theodoricus in the ruined Church of Saint Mary, neere the gate on the North-side. In the monastery of Saint Francis, is the sepulcher of the Poet Dantes, with these verses in Latin;

Exigua tumuli Dantes hic sorte iacebas, Squallenti nullis cognite penè situ. At nune marmoreo subnix us conder is Area, Omnibus & cultu splendidiore nites. Nimiram Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis Hoc tibi (quem inpri nis hae coluere) dedit. In a poore Tombe Dantes thou didst lie here, The place obscure made thee almost vnknowne, But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare, And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne. Bembus with Tuseane Muses rauished, Gaue this to thee, whom they most cherished.

In the yeere 1483. the sixth of the Kalends of Iune, Bernar: Bembus the Praetor, laid this at his owne charge: The strength, merit, and crowne of the Friars minorite couents. S. V. F. and these verses were added in Latin;

Iura Monarchtae, superos, Phlegetonta, lacus{que} Lustrando cecini, voluerunt fata quous{que}. Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris, Actorem{que} suum petijt faelicior Astris. Hic claudor Dantes, patrus extorris ab oris, Quem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris. The Monarchies, Gods, Lakes, and Phlegeton, I searcht and sung, while my Fates did permit; But since my better part to heauen is gone, And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit, I Dantes a poore banishd man lie here, Whom Florence Mother of sweet Loue did beare.

In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pauement is of marble, and the wals all couered with precious stones of many kinds, but vnpolished as they were taken out of the mines, shew great antiquity and magnificence, and doe not a little delight the behol∣der. Also there be certaine Images grauen in some stones, I know not whether by na∣ture, or strange art, which are to be admired. Among which I remember one stone had the picture of a Turke in all the apparell they weare, another the Image of a Monke in his habit, another of a Priest with his bald head, and two other, the one most like the foot the other the leg of a man. There is an Altar of Alablaster, and the Church is of a round forme, whose roofe is painted A la Mosaica, like engrauing (of which kind of painting rare and much esteemed in Italy, I haue spoken before in the description of Venice.) In this Church is a fountaine of water, which by vertue giuen it from this Saint, (as they say) being thrice drunke off, giues remedy to the head-ach. Another Church of Saint Geruasiue is so ioined to this of Saint Vitalis, as it seemed to mee but a Chappell thereof; and in this Church also is the Saint buried, of whom it hath the name: and there be also the sepulchers of Placidiae, sister to the Emperour Honorius, and

of her sonnes and daughters, and of her nurse, with her husband. Here wee paid each man three poli for his supper.

From Rauenna we rode thirtie fiue miles to the old Citie Rimini (namely, ten to Sa∣uio, fiue to Ceruia, fiue to Cesnadigo, and fifteene to Rimini) through wild fenny fields, and a great Wood of Pine-trees, and by the sandie shoare of the sea, betweene which and the Apenine Mountaines (diuiding Italy by the length) the Valley was so narrow, as we continually did see the snowy toppes of those Mountaines towards the South, and for the most part did see together with them the Adriatique sea towards the North. In the foresaid Castle Cesnadigo, the Post-master would haue forced vs to take new post-horses, if he that let our horses to vs, had not pleased him, by the paiment of some money: for the post-horses are knowne by a list of furre they weare in their bridles; and if a man ride into a Towne vpon a Post-horse, he must either goe away on foote, or take another Post-horse there, for no priuate man dare let him a horse, which makes passengers loth to hier post-horses of returne, though many times they may be had at good rate, rather then he will returne emptie with them; yet if a man will walke a mile or two, he may easily hier a horse in other Townes, which are frequent in Italy. And let no man maruel, that these Princes fauour the Post-masters and Inkeepers to the pre∣iudice of strangers, because in that respect they extort great rents from them. By the way, in the Village Bel' Aria, each of vs paid two bolinei for passage of a Riuer. The Brooke Rubico, now called Pissatello, by this way to Rimini, did runne from the West in∣to the Adriatique sea, and there of old was a Marble pillar, with this inscription in Latin; Here stay, leaue thy Banner, lay down thy Armes, and leade not thy Army with their Colours be∣yond this Brooke Rubico; therefore if any shall goe against the rule of this commaund, let him be iudged enemie to the people of Rome, &c. And hereupon it was, that Iulius Caesar retur∣ning out of France, and first stopping here, and then after he had seene some prodigious signes, passing ouer this Brooke with his Army, vttered words in Lattin to this effect; Let vs goe whither the prodigics of the Gods, and the sinnes of our enemies call vs. The Die is cast.

In the Market-place of Rimini is a monument of the same Caesar yet remaining, where * 1.75 words in the Latin tongue are grauen in a stone to this effect; The Consuls of Rimini did repaire this pulpit, decaied with age, in the moneths of Nouember and December, in the yeere 1555. Vnder that is written; Caius Caesar Dictator hauing passed Rubico, here in the Mar∣ket place of Rimini spake to his fellow souldiers, beginning the ciuill warre. In the same Mar∣ket-place of Rimini is a pleasant Conduit of water. The Citie hath no beautie, and ly∣eth in length from the East to the West. On the West-side is a bridge built by the Em∣perour Augustas, which they hold to be very faire. Towards the East is a Triumphall Arke, built by the same Augustus, with old inscriptions, and a pinackle erected, which shewes the Flaminian way to Rome, and the Emilian way towards Parma.

I said, that the Popes territory extendeth this way as high as Ancona, and these inha∣biters of Marca are accounted a wicked generation, the greatest part of the cut-throtes and murtherers dispersed through Italy, being borne in this Country. Our Hoste vsed vs very ill, demaunding of each of vs a poli for our bed, and three polo for our supper; and when we desired a reckoning, demaunding for a little piece of an Ele one polo and a halfe, and for three little Soles tenne bolinei, besides that by the aforesaid priuiledge, he forced vs (being Post-master) to take horses of him at what price he listed.

The next morning we rode fifteene miles to the Castle la Catholica, where is a bridge diuiding the territories of the Pope, and the Duke of Vrbine: then we rode to Pesaro ten * 1.76 miles, and each man paied for his horsefoure poli, and all our way was through fruitful hills and little mountaines.

This Citie hath a faire round Market-place, and a plesant Fountaine therein, distil∣ling water at eight pipes. The aire is thought vnwholesome; for which cause, and the great plentie of fruit, nothing is more frequent here, then Funerals in the Moneth of August, and the Inhabitants seldome liue to be 50 yeeres old: each of vs paid a Polo for our dinner, calling for what meate we liked, and agreeing first for the price.

From hence to Ancona ate fortie fiue miles, and wee hired three Horses for twentie

fiue Poli, with condition, that our guide (vulgarly called Veturale, or Veturino, should pay for his horse-meate, and bring them backe againe. After dinner we rode fiue miles to the little City Fano compassed with high walles of Flint, and lying vpon a hill-side towards the sea, and subiect to the Pope, where we did see a triumphall arck of marble, curiously engrauen. Then we rode fifteene miles more to Senogalita, a strong Citie, and subiect to the Duke of Vrbin. By the way we passed the Bridge Di Metro (hauing foure-score Arches) and the Bridge Di Marctta (hauing fiftie Arches), both built of wood, and very low, as seruing to passe ouer little Brookes; which notwithstanding, by reason of the Mountaines being neere, doe often ouer-flow. All this dayes iourney was by the Sea-shore on our left hand towards the North, and fruitfull hills of corne towards the South, ouer which hung the Apenine Mountaines; whence many times the waters discend violently, by reason of the narrow valley betweene the fea and the said Mountaines. It is prouerbially said of the Magistrate of Senogallia; il Podesta com∣manda & fallo stesso: that is, The Gouernour commaunds and doth it himselfe; where∣by it seemes he is little esteemed. The Citie is of a small circuit, but very strong, and the houses are built of bricke, with a roofe something flat, after the Italian fashion. The Inne is without the gate, and so the more comodious for strangers, who may come late, and departe earely, which they could not do, if their lodging were within the walls. It is true, that he who buyes hath need to sell; for the Duke extorting great rent from the Inkeeper, he in like sort oppresseth the passengers: for a short supper at a common table, each man payed foure Poli, or Poali (a coine so called of Pope Paul). The next morning we rode fifteene miles to Fimesino, and tenne to Ancona, hauing the sea on our left hand towards the North, and fruitfull mountaines on our right hand towards the South. Fimesino is a Fort, and belongs to the Pope, but the Inne without the gate be∣longs to the Duke of Vrbine: And againe, when you haue passed the Bridge, all the Territorie to Ancona is subiect to the Pope.

The Citie of Ancona is compassed with three Mountaines, and hath the forme of a * 1.77 halfe Moone. On the North side is a Mountaine, vpon which the Gouernour dwelles, and vpon the East side is another Mountaine, and vpon the side of these two Moun∣taines the Citie is built to the valley, and sea-side, towards the North. On the South∣side is the third Mountaine, vpon which is the Castle called Capoaè Monte, built in the same place where the Temple of Venus stoode; and vpon this side the Citie is narrow, there being no houses built vpon the Mountaine, but onely in the valey vpon the sea. The Pope hath souldiers in this Castle, and thereby keepes the Citie in subiection: for the Citizens long defended their liberty, and how soeuer they were subiect to the Pope, yet secretly chose their Magistrates euery yeere, to the yeere 1532; at which time Pope Clement the seuenth built this Castle against the Turkish Pirates. but besides he vsed it to bring the Citizens in absolute subiection. The streetes are narrow, and the wayes ill paued with Flint. The Hauen is of a triangular forme, and is now very plea∣sant, as of old it was of great fame for a most secure Port, yet it seemed not to me capa∣ble of many or great ships. Perhaps it was of old fit to receiue the Roman Nauie of Gallies; but since they haue neglected to preserue it. Traiane the Emperour repai∣red this Hauen, and adorned it with a stately triumphall Arke of marble, which re∣maines to this day. About this Hauen there is pleasant walking, and the place where the Marchants meete, called la Loggia, lying vpon the sea, is as sweete an open roome, as euer I saw; but narrow, and nothing answerable for stately building to the Ex∣change of London. It is beautified with sweete pictures, among which one of an An∣gell, which lookes right vpon you, on which side soeuer you behold it, is much estee∣med. They haue a prouerb, one Peter in Rome, one Tower in Cremona, and one Hauen in Ancona (for the excellency of them). Neere the gate of the Citie (to my remem∣brance) on the East-side, is a very sweete Fountaine, powring water out of many heads of stone.

At Ancona, according to the custome of passengers, we agreed with a Vetturine, or letter of horses, that each of vs paying him fiftie fiue Poli, hee should finde vs horses, and horse meate, and our owne diet to Rome; and to this end his seruant followed vs

on foote, after the fashion of the Italians, who ride slowly, and these seruants are called Vetturini, or Vetturals. Now we were to crosse the bredth of Italy, frō the Adriatique to the Tyrrhene Sea. The first day in the Morning, we rode fifteene miles to a little Citie, called Madonna di Loretto, through fruitfull Mountaines, and passing an high Promon∣tary. By the way was an Altar, with this inscription in Latin; O passenger, goe on meri∣ly, &c. Gregorie the thirteenth hath well paued the rest of the way. The like inscription is in the ascent of the Mountaine, vpon which the little Citie Loreto stands: for this way (in a fruitfull Countrey of corne, and a dirty soile) was paued at the charge of the said Pope.

A certaine chamber hath giuen beginning to this Citie and the Church thereof, then * 1.78 which nothing is esteemed more holy among the Papists; and because many gifts of great price vse to be giuen by vow to our Lady of this Church, the City is well fortifi∣ed against Pirats, who did once spoile the same, and were like againe to be inuited by the hope of rich spoiles to the like attempt, if the Towne lay vnfortified. It is of little circuit, and lieth in length from East to the West, so narrow, as it hath almost but one streete in the bredth, and all the houses of this streete are Innes, or Shops of them that sell Beades to number prayers. On the East side, after a steepe descent of a Mountaine, lies a valley of two miles, and beyond that the sea. On the North side, to wards Anco∣ns, though the sea be very farre distant, yet from this Citie, seated vpon a high Moun∣taine, it may easily be seene. Vpon the dores of this Church, famous for mens super∣stitious worship, these verses are written:

Illotus tlmeat quicun{que} intrara, Sacellum, In terris nullum sanctius orbis habet. Enter not here vn washt of any spot, For a more holy Church the world hath not.

At the Church dore is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregorie the thirteenth. As I walked about the Church, behold in a darke Chappell a Priest, by his Exorcismes ca∣sting a diuell out of a poore woman: Good Lord what fencing and truly coniuring words he vsed! How much more skilfull was he in the diuels names? then any ambi∣tious Roman euer was in the names of his Citizens, whom he courted for their voices. If he had eaten a bushell of salt in hell; If he had been an inhabitant thereof, surely this Art could neuer haue been more familiar to him. He often spake to the ignorant wo∣man in the Latin tongue, but nothing lesse then in Tullies phrase, and at last the poore wretch, either hired to deceiue the people, or (if that be more probable) drawne by fami∣liar practice with the Priest, or at least affrighted with his strange language and cries, confessed her selfe dispossessed by his exorcisme. In the body of the Church, a Table of written hand, in the Greeke, Latin, and many other tongues, was fastened to a Piller, setting downe at large the wonderfull historie of the Chamber in the midst of the Church, which I confesse was lesse curiously obserued by me, abhorring from that su∣perstition, & hastening from thence as much as I might; yet giue me leaue to set down the sum thereof out of the itinerary of Villamont a French Gentleman. This Chamber or Chappell (saith he) is the very house, in which the Queene Virgin of Nazaret was * 1.79 borne, brought vp, and saluted by the Angell, foretelling her of Christs birth, and in which Christ was conceiued, and in which the Virgin dwelt after Christs ascention, ac∣companied with the holy Apostles, especially with Saint Iohn by Christs commaund, which the Apostles after the Virgins death, for the great mysteries done here, turned into a Chappell, consecrated to the sacrificing of Christ, and dedicated the same, and with their owne hands, made the great Crosse of wood, now set in the window of the Chappell, and in which Saint Luke made with his hand the picture and Image now set aboue it. Let mee adde: This Chappell from a House became a Chamber, and of a Chamber was made a Chappell, and it is built of bricke, and is thirtie foote long, twelue and a halfe broad. In the chimney (as Villamont saith) as yet remaine the holy ashes, which no man dare take away, and the Altar also, vpon which the Masse is sung, was made by the Apostles hand. There is a

roome into which you first enter, which is diuided from the Chappel by an iron grate, for no man enters the chappell without leaue, but must say his prayers in the outter roome; yet leaue is giuen to any that aske it. Villamont addeth, that he found by dili∣gent search; that this Chappell was much reuerenced in the primitiue Church: but the holy land being subdued by Sarasens, then by Turkes; he faith it hapned in the yeere 1291. that this house was taken vp from the foundations, by Angels, who in the night miraculously carried it to the Sea shoare of Sclauonia, where it was made knowne to the people by the shining of the Virgines Image, and then by a vision of a religious man, the Virgine her selfe made knowne the History to him. He addeth the Virgins Oration, wherein shee giues her selfe many titles, which in later ages were first inuen∣ted, and shee doth so extoll her owne praises with her owne mouth, as hee that reades the old song of the blessed Virgin, would cry out with the Latine Poet, onely chan∣ging the name. O how is she changed from that Virgin, which so modestly spake of her selfe.

Villamont addeth, that messengers were sent into Palestina, who found this Hi∣story to be most true: yet this Chappell did not long abide in Slauonia, but the Angels in the yeere 1294. tooke it vp againe, and transported it to this Sea coast of Italy, where againe it was made knowne by the shining of the Image, and many miracles daily done; whereupon the Chappell of the Image was called Madonna di Loreto, that is, our Lady of Loreto. And because theeues lying in the wood, did spoile strangers, who daily came thither for deuotion, the Angels (as he saith) the third time tooke it vp, and set it downe in a priuate possession of two brothers, who disagreeing in the diuision of the profit rising by the concourse of people, the Angels the fourth time tooke it vp, * 1.80 and placed it in this firme seat, where now it remaineth. After it was often visited by strangers, Pope Paul the second built an other stately Church ouer it, Pope Leo the tenth hauing first fortified the little City against Pirates. Let me adde, that Pope Sixtus the fifth, borne in this Marca of Ancona, established a Bishop in this Towne, and so made it a City. Villamont relating the treasure of this Church, among the rest, nameth cer∣taine Mapps of Cities, and Mountaines, and the Images of the twelue Apostles, a great Crucifix, Candlesticks, and infinite Vessels of siluer, Images, Chalices, Crosses, of gold, and many precious stones of huge value, two Crosses made all of precious stones (whereof one was giuen by the Arch-Duke of Austria), and a Harte of gold set with precious stones (the gift of the Duchesse of Lorayne) and a vessell of huge value, which the French King Henrie: the third gaue, with this inscription:

Vt quae prola tua Mandum Regina beasti Et regnum & Regem prole beare velis. Henri. III. Franc. & Pol. Reg. Christianiss. M. D. LXXXIIII. Addita{que} Regni insigdia. O Queene who with thy Childe the world hast blest. Let not this King and Kingdome childlesse rest, Of Henry the third, of France and Poland most Christian King, in the yeere 1584. The Armes of the Kingdome are also set vpon it.

Thus farre Villamont relates,

He remembers no gift of greater value, then this of Henrie the third, yet (with leaue be it spoken) this King, a very slaue to the Romane Church, obtained not his petition. All these gifts are giuen vpon vowes, and my selfe did see in the outward reome of the * 1.81 Chappell (into which all are admitted) a Galley vnder all salles, all of beaten gold; gi∣uen by the vow of the Duke of Florence, vpon the recouery of his health Villamont adds that this Chapel is compassed with a wal of white Marble, curiously engrauen, but that this wall could neuer by any art bee fastned to the Chappell, and that the Chappell is also compassed with twentie pillars, bearing the Images often Prophers, and the ten Sybills. Hee adds, that many miracles are heere done, and first giues instance in the person of the Marques of Baden, in the yeere 1584. Secondly he sets it downe

for a Maxime, and proues it by an example, that no man euer tooke any thing out of this Church, without great mischiefe betalling him; and that the robbers thereof are compelled to restore, as it were by infernall furies. Let me say truly (alwaies reseruing due reuerence to the blessed Virgin, to whom the Scriptures teach such diuine worship to be most vnpleasing, as the Papists yeeld her), I say let me with due reuerence tell a truth. My selfe and two Dutch-men my consorts, abhorring from this superstition, by leaue entred the inner Chappell, where we did see the Virgins picture, adorned with pretious Iewels, and the place (to increase religious horror) being darke, yet the Iewels shined by the light of wax candles. When we were entred, the Priest courteously left vs, to giue vs space for our deuotion: but when we came forth (as the Italians prouer∣bially speake of the Priests auarice, Euery Psalme ends in, Glory be, &c. as if they should say, All religion to end in profit) it was necessarie for vs to cast almes into an iron chest behind the Altar, couered with an iron grate. Therefore my consorts, of purpose to delight the Priests eares with the sound of money, as with musicke, did cast into that chest many brasse quatrines, but of small value, and my selfe being last, when my turne was to giue almes, did in stead thereof, gather some tenne quatirnes of theirs, which lay scattered vpon the grate, and got that cleare gaine by that Idoll. God forbid I should bragge of any contempt to Religion; but since it appeares, that such worship is vn∣pleasing to God: and because Papists will haue all their miracles beleeued, I will freely say by experience, that hauing gotten these few quatirnes in such sort as I said, yet after that, God of his mercy preserued me in my long and dangerous trauell, and from that time to this day, by his grace, I haue enioyed, though no abundant, yet a competent e∣state, and more plentifull then in my former dayes. The fourth miracle related by Vil∣lamont (for I omit the third) is worth al the rest, which he saith hangs vp in this Church, written in the Italian tongue, and also printed; namely, that a French woman possessed with a diuel, came hither, and being exorcised by a holy Canon, did answer, that she had seuen deuils, and he casting them out, that the first called Sordo, at his comming forth blew out a torch; and that the second was called Heroth, the third Venteloth, the fourth Arcto. And while hee makes them all (without torture or commaund) to confesse their own wicted acts; and while he omitteth the other three, yet he doth not omit that the fourth told the Priest things vnknowne to the world, namely, that he shewed him the stone, vpon which the Angell stood, when hee saluted the Virgin; and likewise the place where the Virgin at that time stood, and that those places were afterward no lesse worshipped then the Chappell it selfe. This Villamont relates. Of these things reuea∣led by the diuell, giue me leaue to say, that if the diuell had been the greatest friend the Church of Rome hath, he could not haue told a more profitable thing to it, and that the Roman Church is not altogether vngratefull, which beleeues the father of lies in so great a matter, and doth not so much as put him to his oath: but they are wise, to be of Ouids opinion,

Cur ego non votis blandiar ipsemeis? Why should I not flatter my owne desires?

I will ende the rest in one word. There is incredible concourse to this place from all parts professing the Roman Religion, neither is any man in the most remote parts of Europe oppressed with any calamity, but hee vowes some gift to this Image. In this Church I did see fiftie banished men, vulgarly called Banditi, who were banished for murthers, and such like crimes, and now had their pardon, vpon condition, that for some yeeres they should serue the Emperour in Hungarie against the Turks. These men abhorred in all Italy, yet (no doubt) at this time very deuout, did make stiffe vows, to expiat their sinnes, and to haue happie returne out of Hungarie, yet they held their hands from giuing any large almes. My selfe and my consorts were all this day fasting, for it had been an vnperdonable sinne to haue demaunded meate in our Inne, before wee had been in the Church, and would haue giuen open occasion to suspect our Religion. At last when wee returned to the Inne, our Vetturine gaue vs our dinner.

The same day after a slight dinner we rode foureteene miles, vpon a causey paued

with stone, and winding about a mountaine, then through fields abounding with O∣liue trees, but hauing no vines and we came to the City Macerata, where the Popes Le∣gate lies, and keepes his chancery for this Marca of Ancona. Part of this Prouince yeelds rich wine, whereof they haue onely white wine in the Innes. The second day in the morning, we rode twenty two miles to Poluertna, through a pleasant way, and fruitfull fields, yeelding corne and oliues. And by the way neere the City Tollentine, were the confines of the Marca of Ancona, and of the Dukedome of Spoleto. After dinner we rode ten miles to the Castle Sereuallo, through stony and barren mountaines. The third day in the morning we rode sixteene miles to Fuligni, through most stony and barren mountaines, which are called Apennine, and diuide the length of Italy, and through a large plaine planted with oliue trees, and compassed about with mountaines. This Ci∣ty was built vpon the ruines of the City Forum Flaminium.

After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Spoleto, through a firtle plaine, but stony, yeelding together in the same field, vines, corne, Almond and Oliue trees, and at the end of the plaine this City is seated, partly in a plaine, partly on the side of a moun∣taine, vpon the top whereof is a strong Castle, built vpon the ruines of an old Amphi∣theater, to the which men passe ouer a bridge of stone, vpheld by twentyfour great pil∣lars & ioyning two mountaines, which haue a deepe valley between them, but narrow and without water. In the Church of this Castle, they shew a picture of the blessed Virgin painted with Saint Lukes hand, of which kind there is an infinit number a∣mong the Papists. Theodoricus King of the Gothes, built a stately Pallace in the City, which being ruined, Narses the Eunuch Gouernour of Italy vnder the Easterne Empe∣rour did rebuild it. The Dukedome of Spoleto is subiect to the Pope, who tooke it, when he cast the Easterne Emperours out of Italy, and after extorted the grant there∣of from the renewed Westerne Emperours. And the soile of this Dukedome is most fruitfull, of corne, wine, almond, and oliue trees, and of most sweet fruits. Of the wine Martiall thus writes;

De Spoletanis quae funt curiosa lagenis Malueris, quam si musta Falerna hib as. If with Spoleto bottels once you meet, Say that Falerno must is not so sweet.

The fourth day in the morning, wee rode ten mils through stony and most barren mountaines, and fiue miles through a fertile plaine; wherein grew together corne, vines, and oliue trees, (which trees I obserued alwaies to grow in stony ground, which soyle in Italy vseth to be more firtile then other,) and seuen miles through a more fir∣tile plaine; in the end whereof is the City Narni, whose situation is altogether like that of Spoleto. The Italians told me that the soyle of this territory, is made dirty with the sunne and wind, and dusty with raine, which since I haue found confirmed by learned Cosmographers. On the South-side of Narni, the Riuer Negra fals with great noise from a steepe Rocke, and the Friar Leandro (who hath best discribed Italy) affirmes that the Riuer Velino makes a Fen, (which Cicero numbers among wonderful things,) and that this Fen endeth in a Lake, of old called Veanus, now vulgarly called Lago di pie di luco, and that betweene the running out of the waters, there is a Fountaine of Neptune, (which Pliny hath described) and that this Lake is the Nauell of midst of Ita∣ly; and lastly, that the water falling into the Lake (compassed with mountaines) by steepe discents, maketh noises like the groanes, yellings, and sighes of infernall spirits. From whence, and by other arguments, he seemes to proue plainely, that the verses of Virgill in the seuenth Booke of his AEneados, are meant of this place, and that others are deceiued, who thinke them meant by Tenaso in Apulia, especially since the vallies Ansancti are in this place, vulgarly called Nesanto, for Ansanto, which signifies on all sides holy, because they are fertile. The verses of Virgil are these;

Est locus Italiae in medio, sub montibus altis, Nobilis, & fama multis memoratur in oris, Ansancti valles, &c. Hic specus horrendum, & saeui spiracula Ditis,

Monstrantur, &c. Italtes Center hath great Mounts beneath A noble place, which is farre knowne by fame, The Ansancti valleyes, &c. A dreadfull hole, whereat fierce Dis doth breath, Here may be seene, &c.

After dinner, we rode twelue miles to a little Towne, lying beyond the Riuer Tyber, namely, eight miles to the Castle Otricoli, through woody Mountaines, and Valyes bearing Oliue trees, and corne together with those trees; and from thence to the side of the Riuer Tyber two miles in pasture fieldes. Here we passed to the West side of this so famous Riuer, where of old the Emperour Augustus built a stately bridge; but now men and horse passe in a ferry-boate, which is drawne ouer with the force of mens hands, by a great cable fastned a-crosse the Riuer. And least the boate should be carri∣ed away with the swift streame, a second cable is fastned a-crosse the Riuer by postes on each side higher then a man; and they haue a third short cable, to the one end whereof the boate is fastened, and the other end hath a strong wheele, which is put vp∣on the second high cable, vpon which the boat slips forward, as it is drawne with mens hands by the first low cable: for the bed of the Tyber is broade in this place, and hath his spring not far off, among the high Apenine Mountains, and falling thence with great force, would carry away any boat rowed with oares: But from thence the bed of the Riuer grows narrow, and is such at Rome, as it scarce deserues the name of a Brooke, and nothing answeres the glorious fame which Italians haue giuen it, who alwaies ex∣toll their owne things to the skie. Hereupon it is necessarie, that when any store of raine falls, or much snow suddenly meltes, those waters falling from the Mountaines, should ouerflow the fields, and the Citie of Rome it selfe, as they haue often done, with great danger of the Citie, the same being not farre distant from this Ferrey, and these high Mountaines among which the riuer hath his spring. But from Rome it runs in a narrow bed: 2 miles to Ostia with a slow course, and there endeth in Lakes, the mouth of the hauen being so stopped, as the least Barks cannot passe to & from the sea. Here beyond our expectatiō, our Veturine alleaged, that he had agreed with vs to pay for our diet, not for our passages of Riuers; by which captious trick, each of vs was forced to pay two Giulij for our passage ouer the Riuer. Of the foresaid twelue miles to the little towne where of I spake two miles remained, which we rode, and there lodged that might. The fifth day in the morning, wee rode seuenteene miles to Castel' nuouo, through woody Mountaines, and Valies of corne, in a way very dirty and slippery; and here our Vetu∣rine tied to pay for our diet, put a new tricke vpon vs, saying, that he would not dine, but goe on to Rome, yet if wee pleased to dine, hee would out of his duty stay for vs, o∣therwise being ready to finish the rest of his iourney. We smiled at the knaues craft, and each of vs paied two poli and a halfe for our dinners.

After dinner we rode thirteene miles to Rome (of old the Head-Citie of the World) through winding hills and pastures; and when we came to the first Gate, we did meete * 1.82 many English men on horse-back, without bootes, being all Priests, going to Madonna di Loreto. I was much afraid, lest some of them being Schollers of Cambridge, should know me brought vp in the same Vniuersitie; neither was the hearing of the English tongue, or the sight of English men, euer before so vnpleasing to me. From this first Gate we rode, in the way of Flaminius, by the winding banck of Tyber, and many caues vnder mountaines and hills, to the bridge called Ponte-Mole, which vniteth the said way of Flaminius, lying on both sides the Riuer, and there wee passed to the East-side of the said Riuer Tyber; and passing on the same way of Flaminius, we entered the Citie by a large Gate, vulgarly called Porta del Popolo, and by a Market place vulgarly called Fore del Popolo, in which Market-place is the Church of S. Mary del Popolo.

CHAP. II. Of my iourney to Naples, and my returne to Rome, and of the description of both Cities. Of my iourney cursory to Sienna, Fiorenza, Pistoia, Lucca, and Pisa, and the description of the three last Cities.

DEferring the view of Rome till my returne, I thought best to passe on presently to Naples, lest if I had staid longer, I might perhaps haue beene betraied into the hands of the Spaniards when I should come thither, for that Kingdome is subiect to the Spaniards, with whom the English then had warre: besides that in like cases, delay brecds danger; into which if I should haue fallen, I hoped to escape with more ease and contentment, when I had beene at the fur∣thest of my iourney. Therefore according to the fashion, I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome, for forty foure Giulij to giue me a horse to Naples, and to pay for my diet and horsemeat. I say it is the fashion, especially in waies of danger and trouble to get meat, that passengers should agree with their Vetturine for their diet; which if they doe not, they shall be subiect to the fraud of Hosts, in such a iourney, and hardly get so good meat as they, who daily pas∣sing, are well acquainted in all places. And in this tumultuary iourney to Naples, it is most of all necessary for strangers thus to agree with their Vetturine, since the Hosts are great extorters from all men, and especially from strangers; and it would be diffi∣cult for strangers not knowing the fashion of that hasty iourney and of the Country, to prouide for themselues. When we went out of Rome, our consorts suddenly in a broad street lighted from their horses, and gaue them to the Vetturines to hold, and so went themselues to the Holy staires, vulgarly called Le scale sante, that they might there pray for a happy iourney; at which time my selfe and my consorts slipped into the next Church, and going in at one doore, and out at the other, escaped the worship∣ping of those holy staires, and at fit time came to take our horses with the rest. They say that these staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates house at Ierusalem; and that they were from thence brought to Rome: and indeed at Ierusalem the place of them lies void, so as I would in this mnch rather beleeue the Romans, then in the tran∣sportation of the Chamber at Lareto, which they would haue done by the Angels, and that often and at vnseasonable times, whereas in so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult to bring these staires from thence. Yet they being of marble, and very rich, I would faine know how such a monument could be preserued, when Ieru∣salem was destroied. And if they say they belonged to that house of Pilate, which they shew at this day, I dare be bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires is no∣thing answerable to the poore building of that house.

The twelfth of March we rode twelue miles to Marino, a Castle belonging to the Roman Family of Colonna, and we passed through a fruitfull plaine of corne, hauing on our right hand towards the South, the ruines of old Rome, and the Castle Tusculo, where Cicero wrote his Tuseulane questions, not farre from Palestrina, of old called Preneste, where Marius besieged by Scylla, killed himself, & we might often see the Tyr∣rhene sea: and hauing vpon our left hand towards the North, an anticke conduit, made of bricke, lying all the length of the way from Rome to the Easterne moun∣taines, in which Marino is seated, and from whence the water was so farre brought to Rome, and vpon the same side hauing a new conduit built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, when the pipes of the other were broken: but the same is much lower and lesse mag∣nificent then the other, and vpon this hand we had mountaines not farre distant. Ma∣rino was of old called Marianavilla, and from this Castle the mountaines which by the way we had on our left hand toward the North, crosse ouer to the Tyrrhene sea,

towards the South, shutting vp the large plaine from Rome hither. And these moun∣taines planted with vines, and hauing a sweet prospect into the same plaine, are very pleasant. Whereupon there be very many Pallaces of Roman Senators built vpon these mountaines, which lying high, of the fresh aire, vulgarly this place is called La Frescada. Among these mountaines in the Village Tiuoli, the deceased Cardinall Hipo∣lito of Este, built a Pallace and a wonderfull garden, which being ten mile distant from the City of Rome, the passengers for the most part hauing scene Rome, did in the Car∣dinals time, and yet many times doe passe that way. For it resembles a terrestriall Pa∣radice, by reason of the fountaines, statuaes, caues, groues, fishponds, cages of birds, Nightingales flying loose in the groues, and the most pleasant prospect. In this Castle Marino we made some stay, to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse.

And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier, vulgarly called Il Procaccia, and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men, vulgarly called Banditi. And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company, neither dare any passe alone. For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples, many times make excur∣sions as farre as these mountaines, to doe robberies, and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers, and had robbed the Carrier, who doth not onely beare letters, but leades many Mules laded with goods. The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew (so they call Church-mens bastards) of the Cardinall Caietano, who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts, was banished by the Pope, and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier, who had great friends about the Pope, and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner, did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard, till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought, had escaped to the next City, he withdrew himselfe & his men into the moun∣tainrs. This danger from banished men, makes the iourney to Naples very trouble. some; and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier. So as the passengers rise before day, and take horse, and so sitting all the day, yet ride not abouc twenty miles, for the slow pace of the mules, and at noone they haue no rest, onely when they haue the Inne in sight, so as there is no danger of theeues, they are permitted to gallop before, that they may eat a morsell, or rather deuoure it: for as soone as the mules are past, they must to horse againe, euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety, but the souldiers forcing them to be gone, who are more slow then the rest. To conclude the mules going a very slow pace, it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day, and to follow them step by step.

Hauing dined at Marino, and our full company being come, we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri, through wooddy mountaines, infa∣mous for the robberies of banished men, and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea, was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao, which the old Romans (delighted with doing difficult things) vsed to fill with sea water, and therein to make nauall fights. One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest, where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse, till they haue passed the same. The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri, was two miles long, yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes, which vse to yeeld the richest wine. Velitri is by writers called Belitre, an old City of the Volsci, and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus, and the dwelling of the Octa∣uian Family. The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta, and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs, and their trumpet as∣ked of euery man a gift in curtesie, which we gladly gaue, and there new horsemen meeting vs, tooke vpon them our guard. After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua, and fiue miles to an old City, which Liuy callesh Priuernum, yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off, where∣as this is seated vpon a mountaine, yet growing to a City by the decay of the former, is called Priuernum, and vulgarly Piperno. We passed through wooddy mountaines,

full of Oliue trees on the right hand, and a fruitfull plaine of corne, and many Or∣chards of Orange trees, and like fruits, on the left hand. And among the mountaines on the right hand, the most remote was called Circello, of the famous Witch Circe, and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea, where at this day they shew the cup, in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion, and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine, the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time, and rob the Christians. The last fiue miles of our iourney, all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules; for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand, where (as they said) the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier. After we had dined, the horse-men left vs, and certaine foot did after guide vs from one Ci∣ty to another. The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men, and rode twelue miles to Terracina, an old City, so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius, and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea, and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land, and many vineyards, and ruines of houses neere the City. After we had this morning rode two miles, we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua, where they haue a monu∣ment of Saint Thomas Aquinas, but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France, when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples. And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs, and certaine foot meeting vs, conducted vs other 2 miles. In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone, but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel. Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur, and it is seated vpon a mountaine, as most of the foresaid Cities are, and it lieth vpon the sea, which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone, this Citie ly∣ing vpon one horne thereof, and the Citie Caieta vpon the other, of which Citie the Cardinall had name, who did oppose himselfe to Luther. The flouds of the sea make great noise, with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks. A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina, and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci, which we paid, though it were onely due from them, who had portmanteaues with locks. Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater. After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fon∣di, through a stony way, being part of the old way of Appius; and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea, and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land, where wee passed by the Citie Monticello. At the mid-way, the Popes guard hauing left vs, we came to two old ruined walles, shutting vp the way, and lying from the Mountaine to the sea. This place called Sportelle, deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples, and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards. I remember at our com∣ming backe, these Souldiers demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie, and when some refused it, they stopped their passage, and onely troubled them in the searching of their carriage, vnder pretence that they might carry some prohibited things. Those Souldiers did accompany vs to the Citie Fondi. I call the same and some other places by the name of Citie, because they were Cities of old, though now they be onely Vil∣lages, and haue no other beautie, but the ruines of age. This old Citie was sacked in the yeere 1534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate. It is seated in a Plaine, hauing onely a meadow and a field ouerflowed betweene it and the sea, and the houses are built of Flints and such litle stones, but it had most pleasant Orchards, of Citrons, Oranges and Lemons. The Orange trees at one time haue ripe and greene fruites and buds, and are greene in winter, giuing at that dead time a pleasant remembrance of Som∣mer. By our Veturines sparing, our diet was daily very short, and at Terracina we could not so much as get wine; and here our supper was so short, as we iudged our Vetturines good Phisitians, who perswade light suppers. The wines of Fondi and Cecubo (for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant) are much celebrated by the Roman Poets, namely, by Horace. The fourth day in the morning, we rode ten miles to Mola vulgarly called Nola, vpon a paued Causey betweene stony Mountaines, being part of the way of Ap∣pius, and through great woods of Oliue trees, hauing by the way many Orchards of Oranges and like fruites, and entering neere Mola into a more open aire. Not onely this Village, but all this sea coast is called Mola, of the Miles (as I thinke) driuen by

waters falling from the Mountaines, and it is numbred among the most pleasant places of Italy. Mola is built vpon the ruines of old Formia, which are to be seene in the fields round about it. Among these ruines is the house of Cicero, who speakes of his Village Formia, where Scipio and Lelius came to recreate themselues; and there is also the sepul∣cher of Cicero, so as it seemes he was killed by Anthony in this Territory. After dinner we rode eight miles through a wilde field with low shrubs, vpon a paued way, till wee came to the Riuer Garigliano, whose narrow and deepe streame we passed by boat, and staied long about the putting ouer of our horses, our company being great, and each horseman paied fiue baocci for passage. Neere this Riuer wee did see the ruines of a most faire Theater, built of bricke and flint, and of another old and round Theater, and of a Conduit built of brick, vpon a 140 arches. Not farre hence among huge and snowy Mountaines, is the Citie Traeto, which hath the title of a Dukedome, and was of old called Minturne. After we had passed the Riuer, we rode seuen miles to Sesso, and three miles to a Country house, through a fruitful Plaine of corne, hauing the Tirrhene sea so neare vs, as we might see it three or foure times. And because the other Carrier comming from Naples to Rome, lodged with his consorts a mile before vs in the Vil∣lage Castellano, we were forced to lodge in this Country house. The fifth day in the morning, at the beginning of our iourney, we met the said Carrier with his consorts, and we rode eight miles to the Village Francolisse, in a most pleasant way, betweene Hills of black clay like stone, but a most fruitfull Countrey. This Village lay on the left hand of our way towards the land, among very pleasant Hills; and the place is not farre distant, where Hanibal brought into straights by Fabius, did escape by a stratagem, tying fire vpon the hornes of Oxen.

After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua, through a most sweet Plaine, * 1.83 called Laborina, because it is laborious to the tiller, but it is wonderfull fruitfull, and a∣boundeth with Oliue trees, and vines planted vpon Elmes. Here we dined, not accor∣ding to our couenant at our Vetturines charge, but at our owne cost, and each man had such meate as he chose, and that (as I thinke) because the passengers being now out of danger, and in a place abounding with all dainties, refused to be dieted at their Veturines pleasure, and chose rather to feast themselues as they list. And in deede we had excel∣lent cheare, delicate wine most white pure bread, and among other dainties, I remem∣ber wee had blacke Oliues, which I had neuer seene before, and they were of a most pleasant taste. Here each of vs paid two Giulij and a halfe for our dinner. This City is newly built, but if you goe out of the Gates to Saint Maries Church towards Naples vpon the South-West side of the Towne, there you shall see a Colossus, and a Caue, and many Monuments of old Capua among the Orchards: the delicacies of which Ci∣tie were of old so famous, as we reade, that the Army of Hanibal grew effeminate there∣by. This new Citie hath a Castle vpon the North-East side, built vpon the walles, wherein is a Garrison of souldiers, which keepeth the Citie in obedience, and the Riuer Vulturnus runnes vpon the same side of the Citie, which they passe with a bridge of stone, neere which there is an inscription, that Phillip King of Spaine repaired the way, and built the bridge. The Citie is of a little compasse, but strong, and it hath a faire Se∣nate-House, and a faire Church called l' Annonciata, with a faire Altar.

After dinner wee had no guard, neither were tied to accompany the Carrier, but it was free for euery man to take his way and company, or to ride alone at his pleasure. So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anuersa, a new Citie, otherwise called Aduersa, and of old called Attella, whence were the old satyricall Comedies, which were full of baudery, and were called Attellane. And betweene this City and the Mountaine Ve∣suuius, now called Somma, out of the way towards the land, and neere the Castle Airola, is the Valley Caudine, where Hanibal put the Romans, drawne into straites, disgraceful∣ly to passe vnder a paire of gallowes, which were called the Caudine gallows, wel knowne to all that haue read Liuy.

The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to Naples. And all this way from * 1.84 Capua to Naples, is a most fruitfull plaine of corne, and vines growing high vpon Elme trees, according to the Tillage of Lombardy, one and the same field yeelding corne, and

wine, and wood to burne, but the other wines of this Country growing vpon hills and mountaines, and all the other fruites, cannot be worthily praised. We entered Naples on the East side by the Gate of Capua, where the Vice-Ròies vse to enter in pompe. And this Gate is stately built, and vpon this side, the suburbes are long and faire, and the streete of Capua within the wals, is no lesse faire, in which is the prison: and because we were attired like Frenchmen, the prisoners scoffed at vs, and to my great maruell, the Citizens of good sort did not forbeare this barbarous vsage towards vs.

[illustration]

The description of Naples, and the Territory.

(A) Rome farre distant.

(B) Capua.

(D) Torre di Graco, and the Mountaine Somma.

(E) The Mountaine Pausilippo.

(F) The Iland Nisita, or Nisa.

(G) The Iland Procida.

(H) S. Martino (as I thinke) an Iland.

(I) Ischia, an Iland.

(K) Caprca, or Capre, an Iland.

(L) Palmosa an Iland, and beyond it the Syrenes Iland, famous by tables.

(M) The Citie Caieta.

(N) Circello, a famous Mountaine for the Witch Circe.

(P) The Bay of Baie or Pozzoli.

(R) Linternum, now called Torre della Patria,

(X) The Promontory Miseno.

(Y) The Cape of Minerua.

(Z) The old Citie Cuma.

(a) The Gate of Capua.

(b) The Kings Gate.

(c) The Church S. Clara.

(d) The Castle of S. Ermo. (eéeee) Scattered houses.

(f) The Hauen.

(g) Il. Molle.

(h) The Castle deuouo.

(k) The Vice-Royes house.

(l) The new Castle.

(m) The Lake d'Agnano, compassed with the Mountaine Astruno.

(n) Grotta del can'.

(o) Solfataria.

(p) Pozzoii.

(q) Tripergola.

(r) The Lake of Auernus.

(s) Baie.

(t) Cento Camerelle.

(v) Piscina mirabile.

(w) The Elisian fields.

From the foresaid part on the East-side of the Citie, where we entred by the (a) Gate

of (a) Capua, without the walls, towards the land. Eight miles frō the Citie lies (D) Tor∣re di Graco, now called Torre d'ottauio, where Pliny, writer of the Naturall history, and Admirall of the Nauey of Augustus, was neere the said sower choked with vapours, while too curiously he desired to behold the burning of the Mountaine Vesunius, now called Somma. This Mountaine Somma is most high, and vpon the top is dreadfull, where is a gulfe casting out flames, and while the windes inclosed, seeke to breake out by naturall force, there haue been heard horrible noises and fearefull groanes. Therest of the Mountaine aboundeth with vines, and Oliues, and there growes the Grecke∣wine, which Pliny calles Pompeies wine; and of this wine they say, this place is called Torredi Graco. The greatest burning of this Mountaine brake out in the time of the Emperour Titus, the smoke whereof made the Sunne darke, burnt vp the next territo∣ries, and consumed two Cities, Pompeia, and Herculea, and the ashes thereof couered all the fields of that territory. It brake out againe in the yeere 1538 with great gaprig of the earth, and casting downe part of the Mountaine. The Pallace there, taking the name of the next Village, is called Pietra Biancha, that is white stone, which on the inside is all of marble, decked with carued worke in the very Chambers, and there is an Image of a Nymphe sleeping, and lying vpon an earthen vessell, out of which great quantity of water flowes, and falls into Marble Channels, wherein fish are kept as in pondes. This Pallace was built in the yeere 1530 by a Counseller to the Emperour Charles the fifth. At the foote of this Mountaine, of old Decius, the first of all the Roman Consuls did by vow giue himselfe for the Army. And at the bridge of the Brooke Draco, the last King of the Gothes Teius, was slaine, hauing three Bucklers all pierced with his ene∣mies arrowes. On the same East side comming backe to Naples, (yet the saide Moun∣taine lyes Northward) you shall come to a stately Pallace, which the Kings of Naples haue built, and called it Poggio Reale, being not aboue a mile from Naples. There of old was seated the Citie Paleopolis, and it lies in a most sweete Plaine.

From the said Pallace the way leades right to the Kingly (b) Gate, called Porta Reale, at which onely the King enters in solemne pompe, and from this Gate right to the West, lies a most faire and large streete called Strada Toletana, the way whereof on both sides is raised with a faire and large pauement for men to walk vpon, and it hath a faire Market-place. When you come to the end of this streete, there is the Church of Saint (c) Clara, called vulgarly San' chiara, which was built by Agnes of Spaine, wife to King Robert, where are artificiall sepulchers of the said Robert (comming of the French Kings) and of his wife Agnes, and of other Kings and Princes of the French family Durczzana. And there in a Chappell the Monkes day and night sing with a lamentable voice, or rather groane for the rest of their deceased soules. In the Church of Saint Dominick is an Altar, which they say, cost some twenty fiue thousand Crownes; and in the Veste∣rie lie the bodies of nine Kings in coffins of wood, couered with peuter, & hauing black veluet laied ouer them. Among these Kings are Alphonso the first, King of Aragon, and Ferdinand his sonne, and Ferdinand the second. And in this place also, the Monkes in like sort sing, or rather houle rest to their soules. They shew a Crucifix, which they say, did speake to Thomas Aquinas in this manner; Thomas, thou hast written well of me, what reward doest them aske? And that Thomas should answere; No reward Lordbut thy selfe onely. I haue heard, that Saint Bernard knowing the fraudes and impostures of the Monkes, and not dissembling them, when the Image of the blessed Virgin did in like sort praise him, did with much more pietie and wisdome answere out of S. Paul, 1. Cor. 14. Let women be silent in the Church, for it is not permitted them to speake.

Not farre thence are the publike schooles of the Vniuersity, which the Emperour Fredericke the second founded there In the most faire Church of the Monkes of Saint Oliuet, the Images of Ferdinand the first, and Alphonso the second, are so liuely engra∣uen, and doe so artificially represent them, as well in the bed dying, as vpon their knees praying, with the mourning of the by-standers, (the horror of Religion being increased with lampes continually burning,) as my selfe by chance passing by this Chappell, thought I had fallen among liuing Princes, not dead Images; and perhaps I haue seene a more sumptuous monument, but a more beautifull did I neuer see. In

the little Church of the Hermitane Friers, Saint Iohn in Carbonara, is a monument of Robert King of Naples, and of Ioane the first his sister, of white marble, being an Altar, which the Italians thinke the most stately monumenr of Europe; but for my part I dare not preferre it to some in Germany, nor to many in England, nor to the monuments of the Turkish Emperours. Many tables are hung vp by vow in this Church. There is a faire sepulcher of white marble erected to N. Caraccioli Marshall of the Kingdome. I omit the most faire Church of Saint Mary of the Preachers, almost all of marble, and the Cathedrall Church called Episcopio, and the Church of Saint Laurence.

Vpon the North-west and by-north part of the City, is the Fort called (d) S. Eremo cut out in a high Rocke, yet the ascent thereunto is so easie, as a horse-man may well mount to the top. Vpon this mountaines top lies a plaine; in which this Castle is sea∣ted, which commands the City, though it were taken by the enemy. A little beneath is the monastery of the Carthusians, and vpon pretence to enlarge that monastery, the Emperour Charles the fifth built this most strong Castle, to bridle the wonted petu∣lancy and inconstancy of the Citizens; and from thence there is a most sweet prospect as well into the City, as to the bayes of the sea.

Towards the South-side is the Hauen, and beyond the (f) bay of Naples lies firme land; for the Sea comming in from the West, makes this bay. Vpon this side is a forti∣fication for the safety of the hauen, which is called (g) Il Molle, & it driues off the waues of the sea, and makes the Hauen like an halfe Moone, and therein at this time were twenty gallies and ten small ships. The Armory lies vpon the Sea, from whence the gallies and ships and land forces are armed; and among other things, there is kept the rich Armour (yet without any ornament of gold) of the French King Francis the first, which he did weare when he was taken prisoner at Pauia. Thereby lies a large market place, in which is a faire fountaine, with many Images casting out water. Also there is a Tower where they set light by night to guide sea men into the Hauen. In the said market place is a stone, vpon which many play away their liberty at dice, the Kings of∣ficers lending them money, which when they haue lost, and cannot repay, they are drawne into the gallies, for the Spaniards haue slaues of both sexes.

On the outside of the said Molle, or fortification vpon the hauen towards the west, & neere to the shore, lies the most strong fort called (l) Castello nuouo, seated in a plaine, and built by Charles the first of Arion, and so fortified by Alphonso the first, King of Aragon, as it is numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe. The inward gate is most faire all of marble, and it hath a little fouresquare hall, in which the Parliaments are yeerely held, and the Viceroyes weekely sit in iudgement. Neere this hall is a faire tow∣er, in which the Kingly ornaments are laid vp; namely, a scepter of gold, with great diamonds vpon the top, the sword with the haft and scabbard of gold, adorned with precious stones; the Kings Crowne shining with precious stones, a golden crosse, an huge pot of gold set with precious stones, great Vnlcornes hornes, and the chiefe kinds of precious stones.

Further towards the West, (yet so neere, as the garden of the Pallace lies vpon the ditch of this Castle), is the (k) Viceroyes Palace, which hath a large and most sweet gar∣den, and delicate walk, paued with diuers coloured and engrauen marbles. And in this garden are two banquetting houses, whereof one is very stately built, and hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually powring out water. Also there is a delicate cage of birds, wrought about with thick wyer, and it is as big as an ordinary stil-house, delicately shadowed round about, wherein are many kinds of singing birds, as well of Italy as forraigne Countries.

A little further within the water, is the (h) Castle of the egge, built vpon a rock by the Normans, which Rocke is of an ouall forme, and gaue the name to the Castle, vul∣garly called Castel' del' vuono, which at this day is ruinous; and some say it was the Pal∣lace of Lucullus; but it is certaine that the Normans built it, as they did also another Castle which is old, and called the Capuan Castle, of the adioining Capuan-gate. Na∣ples was of old called Parthenope, of one of the Syrens there buried, whom they write to haue cast her selfe into the sea, for griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Vlisses

with her. The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples, and left it should grow great to the preiudice of Cuma, they pulled it down againe till at last oppressed with a great glague, vpon the warning of an oracle, they built it againe, and changing the old name Parthe∣nope, called it Naples, which in Greeke signifies a new City. It is seated at the foot of hils and mountaines, in length from the North-east to the South-west, or rather see∣meth to be triangular, whereof two corners lie vpon the sea, and that towards the West is more narrow then the other, and the third blunt corner lies towards the mountaines. Vpon the East-side there be pleasant suburbs, and vpon the West-side more large suburbs; but vpon the North-side without the wals, there be onely some few (eeeee) scattered houses built vpon the sides of hils.

The houses of the City are foure roofes high, but the tops lie almost plaine, so as they walke vpon them in the coole time of the night, or at left in generall the tops are not much erected, like other parts of Italy, and the building is of free stone, and shew∣eth antiquity: but the windowes are all couered with paper or linnen cloth; for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy, and as it were proper to Venice. It hath three faire broad and long streetes, namely, La Toletano, la Capuana and la vicaria, the rest are very narrow. There be eight gates towards land, and as many towards sea, among which the Capuan gate, since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat, is decked with monuments and statuaes. There be in this City very many Pallaces, of Gentlemen, Barons, and Princes; whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli Gentile: Among these, two Pallaces are most stately, one of the Duke of Greuina, which the King of Spaine forbad to be finished; the other of the Prince of Salerno. There be foure publike houses, called Seggij, in which the Princes and Gentlemen haue yeerely meetings, and there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants. Almost euery house hath his foun∣taine of most wholsome waters. Neere the market place are many Innes, but poore and base; for howsoeuer the City aboundeth with houses where they giue lodging and meat, yet it deserues no praise for faire Innes of good entertainement. On all sides the eye is as it were bewitched with the sight of delicate gardens, aswell within the Ci∣ty, as neere the same. The gardens without the wals are so rarely delightfull, as I should thinke the Hesperides were not to be compared with them; and they are adorned with statuaes, laberinthes, fountaines, vines, myrtle, palme, cetron, lemon, orange, and cedar trees, with lawrels, mulberies, roses, rosemary, and all kinds of fruits and flowers, so as they seeme an earthly Paradice. The fields are no lesse fruitfull, bringing forth abun∣dantly all things for the vse of man. The Kings stables without the wals are worth the seeing, for the horses of this Kingdome are much esteemed; and if any man buy a horse, to carry out of the Kingdome, he payes the tenth part of the price to the King.

The City being seated vpon the sides of hils, and by lying open to the South, be∣ing subiect to great heates, and most parts of the streetes being narrow, so as in wal∣king the heat is not to be endured, and yet they cannot vse Coaches, one fashion plea∣sed me beyond measure, that at the end of many streetes they had chaires, vulgarly called Seggioli di Napoli, which those that are weary doe enter, and they being couered round about, and onely hauing windowes on the sides, he that is carried therein, can∣not be seene of any, and yet himselfe may see all that passe. Two Porters carry these chaires by two long staues fastened thereunto, and lift them but little from the ground, and so for a moderate price carry the passenger to any part of the City. After I obser∣ued the same fashion at Genoa, which is in like sort seated vpon the sides of hils and mountaines, and in Cities so seated, I thinke this fashion very conuenient.

The territory of Naples hath many famous antiquities, and wonderfull things to be seene, which that we might behold, we went early in the morning on foot out of the Southwest-side of the City; & hauing passed long suburbs & scattered houses we came within a Musket shot to the mountaine (E) Pausilippo, which is wonderfully plea∣sant, aswell for the houses and villages built vpon it, as for the excellent fruits which it yeeldeth of all kinds. This mountaine being hard to be ascended, extendeth it selfe in good length from the sea towards the land, so as the way would be very troublesome to Pozzols, either ascending the mountaine, or compassing it, had they not found a re∣medy

to this inconuenience. Therefore the Progenitors of these Citizens (which some attribute to Lucullus, as they doe all magnificall things, and others to one Bassus: but Leander the Cosmographer, a witnesse without exception, attributes it to Coccius a Ro∣man,) I say, their Progenitors with wonderful Art and huge expence, digged a passage vnder this mountaine, and so made a plaine way to Pozzoli and those parts. This way Strabo cals a Caue, and it is vulgarly called La grotta di Napoli, and serueth this fa∣mous City in stead of a gate, yet is it a musket shot distant, and alwaies lies open. And the foresaid Leander witnesseth, that it is twelue foot broad, twenty foure high, and two hundred long, to which length if you adde 500. foote more, which at both ends was digged, but lies not couered as the rest, but in open aire, this worke may well be said to be an Italian mile long. My selfe obserued, that part of the passage vnder the mountaine, to bee nine hundred and sixteene walking paces long, and nine broad, and the hight I imagined to double the bredth, yet is it in some places biger then in other. And for the bredth, it is certaine, that two Coaches, or Carts may passe together, one by the other. The enterance and the going out at the other end, are like two gates, and of old light came in by many holes or windowes from the top of the mountaine; but the falling of earth did by little and little stop this light; and in the time of Seneca this passage was so darke, as he compares it to a prison, and at last the light was so stop∣ped by the fall of earth, by nettles and shrubs, as there was no light at all, till Alphonso the first of Aragon, King of Naples, opened two windowes towards the two ends, which onely light it hath at this day to direct passengers. At the entrance of either end, the opposite gate seemes no bigger then a full Moone, and a man entering there, would seeme a little child. It hath no light in the middest, but like twilight, or the Oui∣dian light which is in thicke woods, and in the twilight of morning and euening pas∣sengers vse torches, & continually the carters or horsmen when they passe by the midst of the caue, vse to giue warning one to the other, crying vulgarly Alla marina (that is towards the sea) or Alla Montagna (that is towards the mountaine) according to the side on which they come. Before we entered this caue, among other stately Pallaces, one vulgarly called, Merguilino, built by Iames Sanazzarro, a famous Poet almost of our age, and giuen by his last will to a religious house, contains the sepulcher of a lear∣ned man, vpon which Bembus is said to haue written these verses,

Da sacro cineriflores, hic ille Maroni Sincerus, Musaproximus, vt tumulo. These relikes decke with flowers, Sincer us here In tombe as muse to Maro comes most neere.

Vpon the mountaine of Pausilippo, is the sepulcher of Virgil, shewed in two places, whom Seruius writes to haue beene buried in this way neere Naples; and that these verses were written vpon his sepulcher;

Mantua me genuit, Calabrirapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope, cecinipascua, rura, Duces. Mantuan borne, Calaber dead, me holds Parthenope, who sung ploughs, Dukes, sheepefolds. Or thus; Mantua gaue me life, Calabry death, my graue Parthenope, who sung pastures, Ploughs, Captaines braue. Or thus; Mantua life did lend to me, Calabers laid me on deaths carre; My bones lie at Parthenope, Who sung sheepe, tillage, feates of warre.

And the best iudgements hold, that he was buried in the Church of the Friars regular canons, at the entrance of the caue, as you go frō Naples, & not in the Church at the go∣ing out of the Caue; and though both places shew the sepulcher, yet these verses are in neither place, but the inscriptions are worne out with age: the Monks report, that there was a statua of brasse vpon his sepulcher, which those of Mantua stole fro thence, & in∣deede,

at Mantua they shew such a statua, whether stolne from hence or no, let them dis∣pute.

When we had passed this Caue, wee bent our way from the Sea towards the land, and came to the Mountaine (m) Astrune, being of forme like a Theater, compassing a large Plaine. Alphonso the first, King of Aragon and Naples, and his sonne Ferdinand, vsed to inuite the Princes, Nobles, and People of the Kingdome, to hunting in this place, turning the dogs and beasts they hunted, into the valley, himselfe and the noble men sitting in a pleasant Groue vpon the top of the Mountaine, and the people being scattered round about the Mountaine, to behold the sport. In the same plaine com∣passed with this Mountaine, is the Lake of (m) Agnano which is said to be without bot∣tome, and to haue nothing in it but frogs. And at the foote of the inside of the Moun∣taine next to Naples, there is a venimous Caue, vulgarly called (n) la grotta del'can', that is the Caue of the dogge; because they trie the poison by putting dogs into it This Caue is some eight foote high, and sixe broad, and goeth some foure paces vnder the Mountaine, where a signe is set, beyond which, if any liuing thing passe, it presently dies. Pliny writes, that this caue was called Cherone a scrobae, euaporating a pestilent aire. We gaue two poli to a woman (dwelling there) for a dog, to trie the poyson with it, which dog wee fastened to a long staffe, and so thrust him into the caue, holding him there, till he seemed dead, and being taken our, would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it; then according to the fashion, wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake, and when he was drawne out, he began by little and little to moue, and at last, being come to his senses, ranne away, as if he had been madde. The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere, then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour. Besides, many haue tried, that liuing things cast into that caue, and held there for longer time then is vsuall, could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water. They report, that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe, paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death. And that the French King Charles the eight, commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue, the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe. And that don Iohn, base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth, forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue, and he falling dead, forced another slaue to fetch him out, who likewise fell dead, and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand, because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fel∣lowes. Many cast frogs into this caue, and except they presently leape back, this vapour kills them, which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals. Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax, which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres, though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters. And this water, though cold to touch, yet seemes to boile. The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines, by the vapours inclosed, gaue the Poets occasion to faine, that Giants were buried vnder them. Not farre hence are the wholesome baths, vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano, which kind of baths are very frequent in this part. Heere lie the ruines of a great Vil∣lage of Lucullus, and Writers affirme, that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake, cutting the passage through Mountaines. Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero, which retaine the old name, and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait, was bu∣ried here, and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him.

Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place, is a round field like a Market-place, vulgarly called (o) Solfataria, which Strabo cals Forum vulcani: & Pliny writes, that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci. It is of an Ouall forme, somewhat more long then broad, hauing 1500 foote in length, and 1000 in breadth, being compassed on all sides with Mountaines, except the enterance, lying towards Pozzoli. All the earth is hollow, and being beaten with a mans foote, soundeth like an emptie vessell; and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow, but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour, with walking vpon it, yea, when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground, it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe. In this O∣uall Market place (as I may call it) there is a short and narrow ditch of water, which is

almost round, and the water thereof boyles, as if fire were vnder it. They say if any thing be cast into it, that it will be sodden in short space; but some part of it will be con∣sumed: and Leander reports, that one cast foure egges into it, and presently tooke three fully sodden, but the fourth was consumed. Also he witnesseth, that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place, but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite, and yet is neuer greater, and that the old ditch is filled presently with new mat∣ter. An horseman cannot well come to this place, and as the same Leander writes, an horse man comming boldly thither, was swallowed vp into the hollow earth. And that the strange heate of this water may appeare, one of the Viceroyes Guard, a Duch∣man, and comming hither, according to their fashion, to guide his Countrey men my consorts, told vs, that one of his fellowes not long before, comming in like sort as hee did, to guide his Countrimen hither, either being carelesse, or rather (as it is most pro∣bable) hauing drunke too much, and not guiding his feete well, by chance stumbled into this ditch, and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out, that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand, and that after better aduice, they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him, but that within few daies he died, neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life. At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole, where the vapours with their owne motion, continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles; but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe, or any thing put into the hole, the more they are stirred, the greater stones they cast vp, yea flames of fire sometimes. There bee some cottages neere this place, where they make Brimstone, and all these parts smell of brimstone, and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples, the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither. On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters, which of old were famous.

After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings, we came at the foot of a moun∣taine to the City (p) Pozzoli, of old famous, and called Puteolis, to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old, and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus, as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong, of the wels, which are frequent. I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo, signifying a well, though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo, which signifies a stink, because of the smell of brim∣stone in these parts: but the city being most ancient, cannot haue the old name of an Ita∣lian word: and it is certaine, that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation; for the great sweetnes of the Country, and the plenty of medicinall waters, whereupon they gaue it the first name. Others say that it was of old called Di∣ciarchiam, but at this day it is called Pozzoli, or Puzzoli. Here we dined, and were for∣ced to giue our swords to the Host, there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes. The City hath nothing worth the seeing, but the old Church, first built to Heathen Idols, and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus, and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it, and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes. The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious, but by negligence is growne of no vse.

Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines, was of old called the Creeke of (P) Baie, of that Citie seated on the opposite shore, or the Creeke of Pozzoli, of this Ci∣tie. Suetonius writes that the Emperour Tiberius consulting about his successor, and inclining more to his true Nephew, Thrasyllus the Mathematitian should answere, that Catus should no more raigne, then he should ride ouer the Creeke of Baie. Wherefore Caius being Emperour, and hearing of this diuination (not as others say, in emulation of Xer∣xes, who made a Bridge ouer Hellespont, nor to the end that with the fame of this great worke, he might terrifie the rebellious Germans and Britans) did build a Bridge ouer this creeke of the sea, being about three miles long, that hee might thereupon passe from Baie to Pozzoli. Of this Bridge thirteene piles of bricke may bee seene neere the shore at Pozzoli, and as many on the other side neere the shore of Baie, and some of these piles haue yet arches vpon them, but ready to fall. And from these piles the In∣ner part of the bridge was founded vpon two rankes of shippes fastened with ancors, and couered ouer with a bancke of earth, to make the passage like the way of Appius.

The rest Suetonius addeth in these or the like words. Ouer this bridge he went to and fro for two daies; the first day vpon a trapped horse, hauing his head adorned with a Crowne of Oake leaues, and bearing an Hatchet, a Sword, and a Garland, and a robe of cloth of Gold. The next day in a Coch-mans habit, driuing a Coch drawne by foure famous horses, carrying before him Darius a childe, one of the pledges giuen by the Parthians, his Pretorian Souldiers accompanying him, and his friends following him in a Coach, &c. He that desires to comprehēd the magnificence of this work, must first know, that the Mediterranean sea is very calme, hauing little or no ebbing or flow∣ing, and that this Creeke is yet more calme, and that this bridge was built in the furthest part of the Creeke, very neere the land. These things considered, (if my iudgement faile not), there is greater cause of wonder at the Bridge built by the Duke of Parma besieging Antwerp, being in like sort built vpon barkes fastened one to the other, and also at the Bridge of London, bearing a great ebbing and flowing of the sea, and built of free stone, vpon so firme a foundation, as it beareth many great and faire houses vpon it: but whatsoeuer the magnificence were, surely the vanitie of this worke was great, to spend so much vpon this Bridge, the way by land being not a mile longer then by the Bridge. Giue me leaue to digresse so farre, as to remember, that the Territorie of Fa∣lernum is not farre from Pozzols, the wine whereof called Falernum, is so much praised by Horace. After dinner we went from Pozzoii, to view the Antiquities lying vpon this Creeke; and first we came to the Labyrinth, a building vnder ground, which hath the name of the multitude of roomes, with such passages to and fro; as a man may loose himselfe in them; and here wee had not onely neede of the thread of Ariadne, but of light also to conduct vs. Leander thinks, that all this building was to keepe fresh water: Then we came to the Amphitheater, being of an Ouall forme, the inner part whereof is 172 foot long, and 88 broad, the building whereof is little ruined: And Suetonius writes, that this was built for the Plaies of Vulcan. Not farre thence, neere the shoare, is a foun∣taine of cleare and sweete water, flowing plentifully out of the sea, so that for a great distance we might with our eies distinguish the same from the sea water, which Leander thinks to haue been brought by pipes vnder the earth, to these houses of the old Ro∣mans. Neere this place are the ruines of many buildings, now called Belgeimano, which the Emperour Tiberius is said to haue built, when hereturned with triumph from the German warre. Betweene the rocks that compasse this sea, is the way Attellane, which leades those that passe to Rome, to the way of Appins, and there be many baths, for most of the waters are medicinall.

Neere the Lake of Auernus vpō the side towards Pozzoli, lies a Mountaine, (q) which lately broke out of the earth, where of old were the bathes of Tripergola, whence the dwellings in this part, and this place, are called Tripergola, and here of old were many large and stately buildings, but by reason of many Earthquakes, and roberies of Pirats, the houses were long since forsaken, and at last in the yeere 1538 were swallowed vp by the earth. For in that yeere vpon Michaelmas day was a terrible Earthquake in this place, which brake out with fire in great flames, casting vp stones, with a great tempest of winde, and darkenesse of the aire, so as the people thought the worlds end was come. And at this time the ashes of this fire were carried by the winde to places twentie miles distant. At last after seuen daies, this confusion ceased, and then the aforesaid Moun∣taine breaking out of the bowels of the earth was first seene, being three miles high, and at the bottom foure miles compasse. Vpon the toppe of this Mountaine is a hole some fistie paces broad, which towards the bottom growes more and more narrow, where it seemeth round, and of little compasse, hauing a cleare water, yet giuing a stink of brim∣stone, and this hole is like a Theater made by art. In the foresaid fearefull Earthquake, caused by the breaking out of the vapours inclosed vnder the hollow earth, many fa∣mous bathes were lost, and no more seene. Not farre hence is the Mountaine of Christ, so called, because they say, that Christ with the squadrons of the Fathers, passed this way when hee ascended from Hell. But the French Gentleman Villamont worthily iudgeth this to be fabulous, and likewise the miracle of the Crucifex here, bearing the markes of Christ, yet doth he giue too much credit to the miracles of Loreto.

Vpon the shore of the creek of (r) Baie, lies the Lake (as Virgil saith) of the foule stink∣ing Auernus. This Lake is a naturall Hauen, but is not vsed, because the Hauen of Lu∣crinus is betweene it and the sea. It is compassed with high hils on all sides, but onely where the Sea enters on the South-side at a passage fifty paces broad, and the forme of it is round, and the hils that compasse it now seeme pleasant, but of old were all coue∣red with a thicke wood, which shutting vp the aire, and by the shadow drawing many birds to it, was thought to be the cause that these birds stifled with the smell of brim∣stone, fell suddenly dead, till the Emperour Augustus caused the wood to be destroied. And of the birds thus killed, the Lake was called Auernus. For this smell of brimstone, and the shadow of the foresaid wood, darkening the Lake, and the blacke colour of the water, and because the sunne is shut out from the Lake by the hils, this Lake was feined by the Poets to be one of the Lakes of hell. Leander writes of a fountaine here, the water whereof no man would drinke, because they thought it came from hell, de∣riued by the heat of Phlegiton, whereupon an Oracle was built here, as in a place con∣secrated to Pluto, and the Cymerians liuing here in a Caue, entered this place when they had sacrificed to the Gods for the soules of the dead. Leander also saith, that they vsed to sacrifice men in this place, and nameth Elpenor sacrificed by Vlisses (for he vn∣derstands Homer to meane this place,) and also Misenus sacrificed by AEneas, though Virgil write that he died here. Some will haue this Lake to be the famous Fen of Ache∣ron, of which Virgil writes;

Tenebrosa palus Acheronte refuso. The darke Fen of Acheron powred out.

This also Sernius affirmes, and shewes that this Lake comes from the infernal Riuer Acheron, so called as without ioy. But Leander shewes that Acheron faigned by the Po∣ets to be a riuer of hell, is a riuer of Calabria, and that there is another riuer of that name in Greece. They say that the water of this Lake Auernus seemes blacke, because it hath no bottome: but Leander affirmes that some by a long rope found the bottome to be three hundred and sixty fathome deepe. The hils that compasse Auernus are very steepe, with a head long fall, whereupon Virgil saith;

Facilis discensus Auerni. The discent of Auernus is easie.

Vnder the hill towards the West side, is a Caue, which they call the caue of Sybilla of Cuma; and among many roomes there is one, in which shee is said to haue attended her deuotion, but Leander thinkes this place to haue been a sweating Bath. Of this caue Virgil thus writes:

Horren daeque procul Secreta Sybillae: Antrum immane petit. & inferius: Extisum Euboicae latus ingens rupis in Antrum, &c. Vnde runnt totidem voces, responsa Sibillae. Of dreadfull Sibill the farre distant rites To the vast caue he goes. And after An huge den cut out in the Euboyan rockes vast side, &c. Whence rush so many voyces, Sybill answering.

From these hilles to the neighbour Citie Baie, they say the earth is all hollow with caues vnder it, and that the Cimerians of old dwelled vnder an hill towards the sea∣shore. And Leander thinkes that caue to haue belonged to them; and surely whether it belonged to them, or any old Prophets, or to the Prophetesse Sibilla, or whose worke soeuer it was, the wonderfull Art and huge expence therein do plainely appeare. These Cimerians of old did leade strangers vnder the earth to the Oracle, and were diggers in mines, and reputed to haue the spirit of diuination; whereupon the King gaue them pensions for reuealing secrets vnto him. These men neuer saw the Sunne, but came abroad onely in the night; whence is the prouerb of Cimerian darkenesse, and the ficti∣on of the Poets, that they did leade strangers to the Court of Pluto They write, that these hauing deceiued the King by false diuination, were by him destroyed. Vpon the Hilles of Auernus, they shew the ruined Temple of Mercurie, and another Temple of

Apollo, little broken downe. Nero began a ditch to be made from the Lake Auernus to Ostia, to auoide the trouble of going by sea. From the said Lake there was a sluce of old into the Lake Lucrinus, by which when there was any floud of the sea, the water passed out of Lucrinus into Auernus Lake: but this is now stopped since the foresaid Earth∣quake of Tripergula. The Lake Lucrinus is so called in Latin, of the gaine made by fishes sold. Suetonius writes, that Iulius Caesar let in the Sea to this Lake as also into the other. For the Senate of Rome making great gaine of the fish sold here, (till the Sea did once breake in with such force, as the fish went out of these Lakes at the ebbing of the Sea) did thereupon commaund Caesar to giue remedie thereunto, which he did, raising bankes against the Sea, at which time he made a passage for the fish out of one Lake in∣to another. Wee gaue a Clowne three poli for leading vs through the Caue of Sybilla.

Vpon the Sea shore lies the bath, commonly called of Cicero, which the Phisitians call the bath of Tritoli, of a Latin word for rubbing, the letter F being changed into T, and this Bath lieth neere the ruines of the Village of Cicero, called his Academy. I know not whether this Village (or rather Pallace) had the name of Academy or no; for I finde in my notes a Village of Cicero in the way from Naples to Pozzoli, and likewise the mention of this bath of Cicero, and his Academy, neere the Lake of Auernus. And Leander mentions a village of his, in both places: but Villamont speakes of a Village neere Pozzoli, and of a Pallace in this place called Accademy; and these differ not much from my notes: but others confound the Village and the Bath, putting both together, so as writing of these intricate caues vnder the earth, my selfeam fallen into a Labe∣rinth, wherein I had much rather die, then goe backe to Naples for searching the truth. We entered this Bath Tritoli, and gaue a Clowne one Poalo for conducting vs. The passage to enter was straite, and extendeth farre vnder the Mountaine, and there is a marke set, which they say no man euer passed. We did sweate extreamely, yet I desi∣red to come to that marke, till at last feeling my spirits begin to faile me, I was glad to returne, and to creepe vpon the earth, where the aire was more cold then aboue. They say that this bath is very healthfull, and much frequented in the spring time, and that Nero had of old a Pallace built ouer it.

Neere this lie the ruines of Baulos or Boaulia, named of the oxen stolen, by Gerion, for here was the Temple of Hercules, and Seruius, expounding Virgil, saith that Eneas did here speake with Hercules. Leander writes that Hortensius did here make cesternes, wherein hee kept his so much prised Lampreyes. Tacitus and Suetonius in the life of Nero, make mention of this place. For Agripina mother of Nero, passing by water from the Village of Piso to this Baulos, was of purpose and by the commaund of Nero put in∣to a rotten boate, that she might be drowned, which boate splitting in the middest of the passage, Agripina perceiued the intent, and silently (the neight being darke) slipped into another boate, and so for that time escaped: but her waiting-maide being in great danger, and crying out that shee was Mother to Nero, found death by that name, by which she hoped to saue her life, being presently struck into the water by one of the conspiratours. At last when wicked Nero resolued to kill his Mother he inuited her to a feast, entertaining her louingly on the Sea shore, and when she returned, out of shew of duty attending her to this Baulos, lying betweene the Misene Promontory and the Lake of Raie; but at the same time he commaunded that she should be killed, and here vnder the earth we did see her sepulcher in a caue, curiously carued, and one of the si∣nest old monuments I did euer see.

Hence we passed to (s) Baie, an ancient Citie, and for the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace:

Nullus in vrbe locus Baijs praelucet am aenit. No place of Rome sweete Baie doth excell.

The situation of this Citie is most sweete: but all the houses neere the shoare are drowned, except the Baths, and the houses vpon the mountaine are all ruined, neither doe any dwel here, but some few poore and miserable people (such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly) yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that old

time. This Citie is said to haue the name of a friend of Vlisses there buried. Here bee the foresaid ruines of Caligula his Bridge, which I said doe lie on this side the Creeke. Here we did see the stately ruines of two Senators houses, where the excellent pictures did yet remaine vpon the highest roofe. They shewed vs a tree (as they said) turned in∣to a stone and the ruines of the Temples of Diana and Venus.

From hence we walked towards the Mountaine Misenus, and neere the dead sea; first, wee came to (t) a hill, made hollow by the building vnder it, which is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento camerelle, that is, One hundred little cham∣bers. Leander saith, that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water, whereof the Romans had great store in these parts, whether they came certaine seasons of the yeere to recre∣ate themselues; and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke or Bay of the Sea, are so full of ruined Palaces, Temples, and Sepulchers, as a man would say they were not seuerall Villages, but one great Citie. This said building is large, and foure square, and sustained by foure rankes of foure square pillars, into which wee were let down at a hole in the earth. Round about the entrance there were many Celles, almost foure square, and of an vnequall bignesse, parted with enteries winding about, and be∣cause the building is intricate, some thinke it was a Laberinth.

(v) The ruines of a stately building are opposite to this, into which wee descended by fortie staires; it hath no windowes, but all the light comes in at crannies, and it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare vp the arched roofe. Euery ranke hath twelue pillars, and in all they be fortie eight, and each one is twelue foote distant from the other, and twelue foote high; to which if you ad the high roofe of the building, the roome is twenty fiue foot high, which I beheld not without being amazed at the mag∣nisicence of the Romans in these buildings. This house is little broken downe, and the plaister of the wall is so hard, as I could not pierce it with my dagger, and it is vul∣garly called la piscina mirabile. It is certaine, that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building places for the keeping of fish, and some thinke this was built to that purpose by Antonia, the wife of Drusus; others say by Hortensius: but Leander saith, that it was built to keepe fresh water, and he (with other Writers) doth iudge it a stately monumēt of the Pallace of Lucullus built neere Baie, which he proueth out of Plutarch, who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his foresaid village for his Summer dwelling, and another here neere Baie for his Winter abode. And Tacitus saith, that the Empe∣rour Tiberius foreseeing his death, and often changing places, at last came to this place, and here died. It were an infinite worke if I should seuerally describe the Pallaces of Marius, Caesar, and Lucullus.

I will not omit, that our Guides (I know not how credibly) shewed vs certaine round (w) fields, compassed round with Mountaines, and at this time plowed, which they said were the Elisian fields.

We are now come to the (x) Misene Promontary, which hath the name of Misenus, friend to Eneas, buried here, or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Auernus as is aforesaid. Vpon the top of this Mountaine was a Tower, of old called Faro, vp∣on which a light was hung for a sea-marke. Vnder the Mountaine (especially where it growes narrow, and vpon three sides is washed by the Sea) there be so many houses vnder the earth, as the pillers thereof seeme onely to beare vp the Mountaine, and a∣mong them there is one called Grotta Traconara, of the winding passages therein, which by the ruines now remaining, seemes to haue been a magnificent worke, and this Lean∣der thinkes to haue been built to keepe fresh water.

Right opposite to this mountaine, is the (Y) Cape of Minerua and neere that lies the Iland (K) Caprea, or Capre, easie to be seene by the white and high cliffes, and famous by the cruelty, and more then goatish lusts of the Emperour Tiberius, when he with-drew himselfe out of the sight of the Senate and people of Rome, to liue there in solitude. This Iland hath no Hauen, neither can little boates land there; whereupon being safe from Pirates, it was held a place of pleasure in the time of Augustus. The creeke of the sea, comming in betweene these two foresaid Promontories, was of old called Sinus Cratera. Vpon the side of the mountaine Misene, lying towards Cuma, is a lake of salt

water, called the dead sea, into which, water fals our of the creeke of rozzols, and it was of old more large. For Suetonius writes that Augustus kept one Nauy in this Lake, and another at Rauenna, to guard the vpper and lower sea. And Tacitus writes that his suc∣cessour Tiberius kept two Nauies in those places. At this day the Lake is parted from the Sea, with a banke some fifty paces broad, and it is almost round in forme, and some two miles broad; and Plutarke writes that Lucullus made this Lake to keepe fishes therein.

From this mountaine Misene, we walked vpon the Sea shore fiue very short miles, and came to the ruines of the old City (Z) Cuma, built by the Calcedons of the Greek Iland Euboia, & the oldest City in all Italy, and it is said to haue had the name of a good presage from the Captaines of the Nauy, or a woman great with child of that name. It was seated of old vpon a hill neere the sea shore, and yet on the side towards the land, the wals are standing, but the daughter hath deuoured the mother: for the increase of Naples, was the decrease of Cuma, yet the ruines still remaine, and vpon the top of the hill was the Temple of Apollo, of which Virgil writes;

At pius AEneas arces, quihus altus Apollo, &c. But good AEneas, high Apollees Towers, &c.

And there is yet an ancient Temple partly ruined. A triumphall Arch is yet vnbro∣ken, but some say the foresaid Temple was consecrated to Hercules. Of old Aristoda∣mus did lead the forces of Cuma, and after his victory they made him their Prince: and Liuy writes that Tarqutnius the proud, being banished came to him, and there died. Hi∣storians write that Drusus made a Ditch from this shore towards Capua. In the hill or mountaine of Cuma, there is a labyrinth vnder the earth, and from this hill we did see diuers Ilands neere the Land. The Poets fable that in one of them called (F) Nisa, the Witch Calipso dwelt. That in the second called (G) Procida, the Gyant Typheus was bu∣ried, because of the flames that sometimes breake out of the earth. The third is called the (H) Iland of Saint Martine. The fourth is called (I) Ischia, wherein the Kings of Naples haue a strong Castle, to which the King fled for a time, when the French King Charles the eight tooke Naples.

We walked along this shore of the sea, to the Tower called (R) della Patria, being sixteene miles from Naples, eight miles from Baie, and fiue miles from Cuma. It is sea∣ted in a pleasant place, and vpon the West-side hath a Lake called by the name of the Tower, and the Riuer Vulturnus running into the sea. On the South-side the sea is neere, and vpon the East and North sides, it hath pleasant fields and hils. At this day there is no building standing but the said Tower, and a poore miserable Inne to lodge passengers. But among the shrubs there be many ruines of houses, and of a bridge, and this place was of old called Linternum, whether Scipio the Affrican retired into vo∣luntary banishment, to flie the enuy of the vngratefull Romans, and there he built him a stately Pallace, and a sepulcher in which he would be buried; saying that the vngrate∣full Romans should not haue so much as his bones. Liuy in his twenty two Booke cals Linternum a sandy soyle, beyond Vulturnus from Rome: but Leander thinkes that hee spake this of the territory, not of the place it selfe; and that the rather, because in his twenty three Booke, he writes; that Sempronius the Consull, did lead the forces to Lin∣tcrnum beyond Vulturnus, and there doth agree in the situation thereof with all writers; and the sharpe fountaine like vineger, whereof Pliny writes, is found a∣mong these ruines, which water he saith makes them drunken that drinke thereof, though others write that they haue taken it moderately without any such effect. Pliny also writes, that this water moderately taken, hath the vertue to cure the head-ach. While Scrpio liued here in solitude, Liuy and Plutarke write, that certaine bold and va∣liant Pirats, vpon the fame of his vertue, came to see the face, & heare the words of so great a Captaine. Liuy in his thirty eight Booke, writes that he did see two sepulchers of Scipio, this at Linternum, and the other at Rome, neere the gate Capena, both decked with carued Images; and that these verses were written vpon his Tombe at Linternum;

Deuicto Annibale, capta Carthagine, & aucto Imperio, hoc cineres marmore tectus habes.

Cui non Europa, non obstitit Africa quondam, Respice res hominum, quam breuis vrna premat. Hannibal foild, Carthage sack'd, and th'Empire Inlarg'd, thine ashes in this marble lie, Whom Europe or Afrique, nere made retire How short a chest holds? see mans vanity.

Leander thinkes that Scipio was buried in this place, aswell because Liuy writes it; as for the words of Scipio related by Valerius Maximus, that his vngratefull Countrey should not haue so much as his bones. And he thinks that the monument at Rome was either built by Scipio in the time of his prosperity, or by his friends long after, in me∣mory of so worthy a kinse man. As we walked from Cuma to Linternum, we did see no memorable thing, but tooke this iourney onely out of desire to see the monument of this famous man, neither did we know the danger from banished men in this place, who often resort to this poore Inne; yet for that cause this way from Naples to Rome, more commodious then the other, and therefore hauing post-masters appointed there for publike affaires, had long beene forsaken by passengers. This way to Rome is thus distinguished into miles. From Naples to la Patria sixteene miles, to la Rocca foure∣teene, to la Fratta eighteene, to Ponte Curto, ten, to Capetano eight, to Frusalone eighteen, to Piedauani three, to val'di Montone twenty two, to la Ficha foureteene, to Rome eight. There is no house at Linternum but the foresaid base Inne, and there we lodged, and found not our supper answerable to the fruitfulnesse of Campania, neither had we any beds, and could hardly get cleane straw, which inconueniences were accompanied with the feare to be surprised by the banished men, so as we slept not one winke that night. Here we did see two Towers, one compassed with water, and neere the Tower della Patria, we did see the ruines of a stately Pallace, which they said was the Pallace of Scipio, and that he was buried there. Also we did see a pillar, vpon which were the Armes engrauen of the Kings of Spaine and Naples, and we did see the ruines of a bridge, which shewed the old magnificence thereof. But there was nothing to be seene, that might counteruaile the danger we had runne. Our iourney the day before from Naples to Baie was very pleasant, through most fruitfull hils of corne and vincs. But from Cuma to this Tower, the way vpon the sea shore was wild and barren, yet not farre distant within land we might fee most pleasant and fruitfull hils.

When we had passed a night without sleepe at Linternum, we returned early in the morning to Naples, by the same way we came, but with a more right linc. And there I made no stay, because England then had warres with Spaine, but tooke the next oppor∣tunity to returne to Rome with the Carrier, after the same fashion I came hither; and I paied to my Vetturine fifty two poli for my horse and horse-meat, and my owne diet from Naples to Rome, and beyond my couenant (to gratifie him) I was content to pay for my diet the first and last meale, which I promised of my owne free will, yet should haue beene forced thereunto, for otherwise he would haue carried me fasting to Rome, and haue giuen me slender diet at Capua, being a plentifull place; and I obserued the other passengers to doè the like in these places, where they were out of danger.

I passe ouer the iournies, (which I haue discribed before, and wil only say in a word, that we returned to Rome, where that I might stay with more security, to see the anti∣quities * 1.85 thereof, it hapned very fitly, that the Cardinall Allan an Englishman, hauing vsed to persecute the English comming thither, and therefore being ill spoken of by them, had changed his mind, since the English had ouerthrowne the Spanish Nauy, in the yeere 1588. and there was now small hope of reducing England to papistry, and therefore to gaine his Country-mens loue did not onely mislike that they should be intrapped at Rome, but did himselfe protect them, though suspected for religion, so they would seeke his fauour: whereof I being aduertised by the experience of others, when I had in silence, and through many dangers seene Naples subiect to the King of Spaine, and was now returned to Rome, I presently went to the said Cardinall, and after the fashion, hauing kissed the hemme of his vesture, I humbly desired, that according to this his curtesie, for which hee was much honoured in England,

hee would receiue mee into his protection, till I might view the antiquities of Rome. He being of a goodly stature and countenance with a graue looke and pleasant speech bad me rest secure, so I could commaund my tongue, and should abstaine from oftence. Onely for his duties sake, hee said, that he must aduise me, and for the loue of his Countrey intreate me, that I would be willing to heare those instructions for reli∣gion here, which I could not heare in England. I submitted my selfe to these conditi∣ons, and when (after due reuerence made) I would haue gone away, the English Gen∣tlemen and Priests there present, ouertooke me in the next roome. Among these was an Englishman, a Priest of Calabria, who in my iourney from Naples hither, had been my consort by the way, at the table, and euen in bed, whom I had often heard talk∣ing with the Italians of English affaires, but more modestly and honestly then any man would expect of a Priest. He taking my selfe and one Master Warmington an English Gentleman by the hands, with an aftonished looke, did congratulate with me, that I, who had bin his companion at bed and boord, and whom he had taken rather for any countriman, was now become an English man. All the rest commended my iudge∣ment, in comming to the Cardinall, and inquiring after my lodging, promised to be my guides in Rome, and for Countries sake, to doe me a good offices, and so after mutuall salutations, I went from them. I well knew, that such guides would be very trouble∣some to me, for they (according to the manner) disputing of Religion, I must either seeme to consent by silence, or maintaine arguments ful of danger in that place, besides that to gratifie them for their courtesie, I must needes haue runne into extraordinary expences. Therefore hauing told them my lodging, I presently changed it, and tooke a chamber in a vitling house, in the Market-place, close vnder the Popes Pallace, where I thought they, or any else would least seeke mee, and so being free from that burthen, and yet secure in the Cardinals promised protection, I began boldly, (yet with as much hast as I possibly could make) to view the Antiquities of Rome.

[illustration]

The description of Rome, drawne rudely, but so as may serue the Reader to vn∣derstand the situation of the Monuments.

I. Il Borgo. II. Trasteuere. III. l'Isola. IIII. The Gate del popolo. V. The

gate Pinciana. VI. The gate Salara. VII. The gate Pia. VIII. The gate di San' Lorenzo. IX. g. Maggiore. X. g. di S. Gionanni. XI. g. Latina. XII. g. di S. Sebastiano. XIII. g. di S. Paolo. XIV. g. di. Ripa. XV g. di. S. Pancratio. XVI. g. Settimiana. XVII. g. di S. Spirito. XVIII. g. Fornac: XIX. g. la portusa. XX. g. di Belucdere. XXI. g. di S. Angelo. XXII. Monte Capitalino. XXIII. M. Palatino. XXIIII. M. Auentino. XXV. M. Coelio. XXVI. M. Esquilino. XXVII. M. Viminale XXVIII. M. Qui∣rinale. XXIX. M. Vaticano XXX. M. Ianiculo XXXI. M. Pincio XXXII. M. Citorio. XXXIII. M. Iordano. XXXIIII. M. Testaceo. XXXV. The bridge di S. Angelo. XXXVI. b. Vaticano XXXVII. b. Sisto. XXXVIII. b. di quatro Capi. XXXIX. b. di S. Maria. XL. b. di S. Bartolomco. XLI. b. Sublicio. A. The Church of S. Giouanni Lateran'. B. C. of S. Pietro. C. C. of S. Maria Maggiore. D. C. of S. Croce in Hie∣rosolyma. Q. The Pallace of the Pope. 3. Beluedere. 4. Castel' di S. Angelo. 5. l'obelisco di Ginlio Cesare. 6. The sepulcher di Cestio. 7. Circus Maximus. 8. The Church of S. Stefano rotondo. 9. Trofei di Mario. 10. lacolonna di Traiano. 11. la colonna d' Antonio. 12. The Church of S. Maria srpra la Minerua. 13. C. di S. Maria rotonda. 14. The Market-place Nanona. 15. C. di S. Maria della consolatione. 16. The Market place di Fiori. 17. C. de la Tri∣nita. 18. C. di S. Rocco. 19. The Bath of Dioclesian. 20. le sette sale. 21. The Arch of Constan∣tine. 22. The Arch of Vespasian. 23. The Arch of Septimius Seuerus. 24. The Theater of Marcellus. 25. The Pallace of the Cardinall di Farnese.

Rome being situated on the East side of Tiber, may further bee distinguished into three parts seated on the West side of Tiber, whereof the first is called (I) Il Borgo, and it containeth the Popes Pallace, compassed with high walles by Pope Nicholas the fifth, and the Garden thereof, which of the faire prospect is called Beluedere, and the Libra∣rie, and the Church of Saint Peter In vaticano, and the field or Market-place lying be∣fore the Church, and the strong Castle Saint Angelo, all which were compassed with walles by Pope Leo the fourth, and for a time this part was of him called Leonina, but now it is called Il Borgo. The second part is called (II) Trasteuere that is beyond the Tiber, and was called of old I anicolo, of the Mountaine included therein; and also was called the Citie of the men of Rauenna, of the Souldiers which Augustus kept at Raucn∣na against Anthony, and after placed them here. And because the aire is vnwholesome, as the winde is that blowes heere from the South, it is onely inhabited by Artisans and poore people. And at this day it is compassed with walles, which seeme ancient, saue that it lies open towards the Tiber and Rome, and it is adorned with Churches and buil∣dings, but much seuered one from the other. The third part is called (III) l' Isola, that is an Iland of Tiber, which of old was called Licaonia, of the Temple of Iupiter of Licao∣nta. When Tarquinius the proud was of old banished from Rome, the people abhor∣ring to conuert the goods of such a wicked man to priuate vses, did make his ground a field for training of souldiers, and called it Campus Martius, and the Senate commanded the great store of his corne, chaffe, and straw, to bee cast into the Tyber, of which matter growing together, they say this Iland first came. After a Temple was built in this Iland, to Esculapius, brought hither from Epidaurus in the shape of a Serpent; and the Ile being consecrated to him, was then made in the forme of the ship that brought that serpent, whereof there is a monument in the Garden of Saint Bartholmew, namely a stone in the forme of a ship with a Serpent grauen vpon it. It is a quarter of a mile in length, and some fiftie paces in bredth, and it is full of stately Churches and houses.

If you draw a line from the East-side of the Mountaine Capitolino (XXII) to the Gate del popolo, (IIII) lying towards the North; and from the said Mountaine draw aline to the furthest part of the Bridge vpon the West side of the Iland of Tyber, this compasse may truly be called Rome, as at this day it is inhabited; for the rest lies wilde, hauing only ruines, and some scattered Churches and houses, and towards the South, fieldes of corne within the walles. They say, that Romulus did onely build vpon three Mountaines, the Palatine, the Capitoline, and the Celian, yet others adde the Esquiline, and that he compassed them with walles, and that he built the Gate Carmentalis, so cal∣led of the mother of Euander, which lies vnder the Capitoll vpon the right hand be∣tweene the rock Tarpeius and the Riuer Tiber, and was also called the cursed Gate, of the 300 Fabij, which went out of the same to fight, and were all killed in one day. And

that he built the Roman Gate lying neere the Mount Pallatine, towards the Amphithea∣ter, called Obelisco, and the Gate Pandana, so called, because it was alwaies open. After, seuen Mountaines being inclosed, Rome had eight Gates, and after thirtie foure (as Li∣uy writes), and at last thirtie seuen Gates.

At this day the first Gate is called (IIII) delpopolo, lying on the East-side of Tiber towards the North, which of the Riuer was of old called Flumentana, and of the way of Flaminius, to which it did leade, was called Flaminia. The second Gate is called (V) Pin∣ciana, of a Senator of that name, and of old was called Collatina of a Pallace adioyning, and it is a mile distant from the former Gate. The third Gate is called (VI) la Salarta, of salt brought in that way, and was of old called Quirinalis, of the Temple, or the Mountaine adioyning of the same name, and also called Agona of a Mountaine, or as hauing no corner; and also called Collina of a Hill, and it is lesse then a mile distant from the last named Gate. The fourth Gate is called (VII) la Pia, of Pope Pius the fourth, who repaired it, and the way without it, and it is more then halfe a mile distant from the last named Gate. At this day it is many times called Saint Agnese of a Church ly∣ing neere it. And it was of old called Viminalis of Oseyres growing there, and also called Figulensis of Potters dwelling there, and also called of old Numentina of a Castle. I will omit the Gate, of old called Inter Aggeres, because almost no ruines therof remaine at this day. The fifth Gate is called (VIII) di S. Lorenzo of the Church neere it. It was of old called Tiburtina (though others think that Gate was neerer to Tyber on this side) and Esquilina of a place neere it, and Taurina of a bulles head which still is grauen vpon it; and it is a mile and a halfe distant from the last named Gate. The sixth Gate is cal∣led (IX) Maggiore, and was of old called Neuia, and Labicana, and Praenestina. The se∣uenth is called (X) dt S. Giouanni, and it was of old called Caelemontana of a Mountaine, and Quercotulana of an Oake, and Settimia, and Asinaria. The eighth is called (XI) La∣tina of Latium to which it leades, and was of old called Firentina, and is more then a mile distant from the seuenth Gate. The ninth from the eighth more then halfe a mile distant, is called (XII) di S. Sebastiano, of the Church to which it leades, and was of old called Capena of the Citie or Riuer of that name; and also Camena of a Church, and Ap∣pia of the way which Appius the Censor paued, and Fontinale of the Fountaines; and some write it was called Trionfale for part of the Triumphes that did enter there. And the brother of the Horatij escaping in the fight against the brothers Curiatij, did returne at this Gate: without the same is the Sepulcher of Scipio the Africane, whereof I spake describing Linternum neere Naples (where he would be buried, farre from his vngrate∣full Countrey). The tenth Gate is called (XIII) di S. Paolo of the Church whither it leades, and was of old called Trigemina of the 3 Horatij going out there, and called Osti∣ensis, as leading to Ostia where Tyber runs into the Sea, and it is a mile from the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Gate, and as much distant from the Riuer Tyber. The eleuenth Gate lies on the West side of Tyber, in that part of the Citie which I said is called (II) Trasteuere, and is distant from Tyber halfe a quarter of a mile, being called (XIIII) di ripa, and was of old called Portuensis, as leading to the Hauen of Rome, made by the Emperour Claudius. The twelfth Gate almost a mile distant from the former, is called (XV) di S. Pancratio, and of old was called Aurelia of Aurelius the Emperor, or of the way Aurelia, and of others called Pancratiana, and it lieth neere the Mountaine Ianiculo. The thirteenth Gate halfe a mile distant from the former, is called (XVI) Settimiana, of the Emperour Settimius, whose name is engrauen vpon it, & it was repaired by Pope Alexander the sixth. Some think this Gate was called Fontinale, others Festinale, and it is the last Gate in Trasieuere. The fourteenth Gate is called (XVII) di S. Spirito and it is the first in that part of the Citie called (I) Borgo. The fifteenth gate is called in the map (XVIII) Fornacum, but I find it called by Writers del Torrione, and Posterula, and to be repaired by Pope Nicho∣las the fifth. The sixtenth Gate is called (XIX) la Portusa, being neete to the Popes stables. The seuententh is called (XX) di Beluedere, lying neere the Popes Pallace and (3) Garden, and it is called in some Mapps Angelica, and by others Giulia, of the Pope Giulius. The eightenth is called (XXI) di S. Angelo, and delCastello of the Castle S. An∣gelo, and it was of old called Enea, and more lately di Cenello. I passe ouer the Gate called of old la Trionfante, where the greatest triumphs did enter, because no ruines remaine

thereof, but onely it is said to haue bin seated neere the Triumphall Bridge. (XXXVI)

It remaines to speake of the waies leading to Rome, which I will note with the letters of the Gates leading to them. And first I will onely name the wayes that are within the walles.

The first la Suburra begins at the Amphitheater, called Coliseo (20), and leades to the Church Saint Lucia in Orsia. The second la Sacra, lies from the Arch of Constantine (21) to the Arch of Vespasian (22), through Forum Romanum (23), to the Capitol (XXII.) The third la Nuoua, did leade from the greater Pallace in Mount Palatine (XXIII) to the Bath of Antonius in Mount Auentine (XXIIII). The fourth la Trionfale, did leade from the Mount Vaticano (XXIX), to the Capitol in the Mount (XXII) Ca∣pitolino. The fifth la via retta, was in the Campius Martius, where is la colonna di Tra∣iano (10).

The Frier Leander describing Rome, nameth twentie nine waies within and without the walles namely, 1. Appia. 2. Latina. 3. Labicana. 4. Campana. 5. Praenestina. 6. Cumana. 7. Flaminia. 8. Cassia. 9. Tiburtina. 10. Collatina. 11. Nomentana. 12. Salaria. 13. Emilia. 14. Portuesen. 15. Cornelia. 16. Claudia. 17. Valeria. 18. Ostiensis. 19. Laurentina. 20. Ardeati∣na. 21. Galica. 22. Tiberina. 23. Settimia. 24. Quintia. 25. Gallicana. 26. Triumphalie. 27. Praetoriana. 28. Laticulesen. 29. Aureliana. And vpon these waies hee relates many stately Pallaces built out of the Citie. Now I will note the waies without the Gates by the same letters, by which I haue noted the Gates leading to them. Among these the most famous is the way of Appius, called the Queene of waies, most part of the chiefe Triumphes entring that way. It begins at the Gate of Saint (XII) Sebastian, and is pa∣ued to Capua, and then deuided into two waies, that on the left hand leading to Brun∣dusium, and that on the right hand leading to Pozzoli and to Cuma, hauing stately Pal∣lates on all sides, and it hath the name of Appius Claudius the Censor. In this way two miles from the Citie the Romans built a Temple in memory of Hannibal who in∣camping there, was forced to raise his siege with disgrace. The way of Flamintus is no lesse famous, which lies from the Pillar of Antoninus (11) to the Gate (IIII) del popolo, and did leade to Rim. ni vpon the Adriatique Sea, and part of it was called Quincia, and it was ioyned with the way called Claudia, and of old was called the large way. Where the way of Flaminius endes, there begins the way AEmilia, made by his fellow Consul AEmilius, Lepidus, leading to Bologna, and paued to the very Alpes. Yet there is another way of the same name neere Pisa. The way Collatina is without the Gate (V) Pinciana; the way Salaria without the Gate (VI) Salaria; the way Tihurtina without the Gate (VIII) Saint Lorenzo, the way Praenestina without the Gate (IX) Maggiore, on the left hand or East-side; and the way Labicana on the right hand or South-side of the same Gate. In the way Praenestina is the stately Conduit, or Aqueduct of Pope Sixtus Quin∣tus, extending it selfe many miles vpon the next Plaine, where lie the ruines no lesse wonderfull, whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples. To conclude, the way Latina is without the Gate (XI) Latina; the way Ostiensis without the Gate Saint (XIII) Paolo; the way Aurelia without the Gate (XV) Saint Pancratio; which (if I be not deceiued) was called also the way Vitelia, paued from the Mount Ianiculo to the Sea. But who would not wonder, that from the Gate (XIX) Portusa, the way should leade into the Valley of Hell (for so it is called), close to the holy Seate of the Popes.

Rome was of old called Septicollis, of seuen Hilles, or little Mountaines contained within the walles, namely Capitolinus, Palatinus, Auentinus, Celius, Esquilinus, Viminalis, and Quirinalis. Hereof the first and chiefe is (XXII) Capitolinus, of old called Satur∣nius, of the Citie Saturnia, and Tarpeius of the Virgin Terpeia, which betraying her Countrey to the Sabines, giuing them entrance at that place, was for reward there kil∣led by them. And at last in the raigne of Tarquin the proud, it was called Capitolinus of a head digged out of the ground. At this day it is vulgarly called Il Capidoglio. It is diuided into two parts, namely, the Capitolium, and the Rocke Tarpeius, lying on the Northside of the hil. And it had sixty Churches, wherof the chiese was of old dedicated Ioni Optimo Maximo, where the Triumphers vsed to giue thanks for victory, and to

offer rich spoiles to Iupiter. And it was adorned with the stately building of the Capi∣tolium, and with many stately Palaces of noble men. The second Mount is called (XXIII) Palatinus, of Palantus, Grand-father to Euander, (among many diuers opi∣nions following Virgil). At this day it is vulgarly called Palazzo Maggiore, and it is a mile in circuit, but is not at all inhabited. And vpon the side lying towards the Circus, they shew a little house in the place where Romulus dwelt, onely preserued in memory of him. And vpon this Mount Catilina and Catullus and Cicero did dwell. The third mountaine was called (XXIIII) Auentinus, of birds, by whose flight they vsed to prophecy, or of the King Auentinus. And it was of old called Romorio, of a place in the top, where they obserued the flight of the birds, and it hath two miles in compasse. The fourth Mount is (XXV) Celius, of Celius King of Hetruria, and was of old called Querquetulanus, of a Wood of Oakes. And a little Mountaine being part of it, is vul∣garly called Celiolus, where I shall shew the Church of Saint Iohn the Euangelist to bee seated. Vpon this Mountaine was the house of Scipio the Africane, neere the Church of Saint George. The fifth Mountaine was called (XXVI) Esquilinus, or Esquilia, of the guard of the Pretorian souldiers, or of the fragments of meate cast there to feede hawkes. It reacheth from the Market-place of Traian, to the Baths of Dioclesian, and the Gate of S. Lorenzo, and the monument of Marius, vulgarly called I Trofei. And at this day it is called Cespius, and they say, that Virgil dwelt vpon this Mountaine. The sixth Mount was called (XXVII) Viminalis, being long and narrow; and some say it is part of the Mount Esquiline, but all writers generally reckon it among the seuen hills, and it had the name of the Church of Iupiter Viminius, so called of the Oseyers growing there, and they say Marcus Crassus dwelt vpon this Mountaine. The seuenth Mount was called (XXVIII (Quirinalis of the Quirites, or Senators dwelling there, or of the Speare of Iuno, and it was also called Egonus. At this day it is vulgarly called Monte Cauallo There be two other Mountaines beyond the Tyber, which are seated in Tosca∣ny, not in Latium; for Leander makes all the places most neere to Rome on this side to be∣long to Hetrurta. The first of these Mountes is called (XXIX) Vaticanus, of the cry∣ing of an infant, or of a god of that name, as Gellius writes, which god was the god of prophecies. Pope Leo the fourth compassed this Hill and the next field with walles, and called it Leonina, but at this day it is called Il Borgo. The other Mount beyond Tyber was called (XXX) I aniculus of I anus dwelling and buried there, and is now vulgarly called Mortorio. Within the walls of Rome there bee some other Hills or little Mountaines, but lesse famous. The first is called (XXXI) Pincius, and vulgarly de li hortuli, reach∣ing to the Gate Salaria. The second was called (XXXII) Citorius, and of old Citate∣rius of the Tribes descending from thence to chuse Magistrates, as those that were su∣tors to be Magistrates descended from the Mount Pincius, and went into Campus Mar∣tius. The third Mount lesse and more obscure, is called (XXXIII) I or danus, of the family Orsini, who at this day haue their Pallaces vpon it. The fourth Mountlesse and obscure is called (XXXIIII) Testaceus, of earthen pots, for the Potters of old dwelt there, and the images and vessels of the Temples were for the most part of earth. And when the dead bodies were burned, the ashes were laied vp in these vessels, whereupon a heape grew to a Hill, and a Hill to a Mount. Many doe falsely thinke, that it had the name of such vessels, in which tribute was brought to Rome, and then the vessels were broken here.

Of old eight bridges were built ouer Tyber, among which is reckoned Pons Miluius, vulgarly Ponte Mole, without the gate (IIII) Delpopolo more then a mile distant from Rome, and neere this bridge Constantine the Great, vnder the signe of the Crosse did o∣uercome the tyrant Maxentius. Also this bridge was famous for the night lusts of Ne∣ro. The second bridge is called (XXXV) di Castel' Sant' Angelo, and it was of old cal∣led Elius, of the Emperour Elius Adrianus, who built it; but Pope Nicholas the fifth built it as now it stands, and set vpon it the Image of Saint Peter with his keyes, and of Saint Paul with his sword. The third bridge is called (XXXVI) Vaticanus, as leading to that Mount, and was also of old called Triumphalis, of the Triumphes passing vpon it, and it was not lawfull for the Countrey people to enter that way, but at this day

onely the ruines thereof are seene. The fourth bridge is called (XXXVII) Ponte-Sisto of Pope Sixtus the fourth, who repaired it. It was of old called Ianiculonsis of that Mount, and Aurelius of the way of that name, and it was built of marble by Antoni∣nus Pius, and after being decaied, was long called Ponte Rotto, that is, the broken bridge, till the said Pope repaired it in the yeere 1475. and it is two hundred and fifteene foote broad, and is built vpon three Arches of stone. The fifth bridge ioining Rome and the Iland, and next to the Capitolium, is called (XXXVIII) Ponte at quattro Capt, and was of old called Tarpeius, of the Rocke Tarpcia, which is in the Mount Capitolino, and was called Fabricius of the repairer, and it is seuenty foot long, and hath but one Arch of stone. The sixth bridge of a Church neere it is called (XXXIX) di S. Maria AEgit∣tiaca, and was of old called Scnatorim and Palatinus, and it is somewhat longer then the bridge Sisto. The seuenth bridge of a Church neere it is called (XL) di S. Bartolomeo, and it is opposite to the fifth bridge, and ioineth the Iland with that part of Rome cal∣led Trasteuere, and of old it was called Psquilinus, and Cestius, and it is sixty foot long, hauing but one Arch of stone. The eight bridge at the foot of the Mount Auentine, was of old called (XLI) Sublicius, because it was built of wood, in the warre with the Tuscanes, that it might be more easily broken and repaired. And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors, had taken Rome, if Horatius Cocles had not defended the bridge, till it was broken downe behind him, which done, he saued himselfe by swim∣ming. After that Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone, and called it Emilius; and when it was broken with floods, first the Emperour Tyberius repaired it, and then An∣toninus Pius built it very high of marble, & condemned men were cast from it into the water. This bridge being the first that was built ouer Tyber, now is not to be seene by any ruines.

Rome by the great power of the Emperours, and since of the Popes, hath beene long most famous, and was first built in Latium vpon Tyber, fifteene miles from the Tyrrhene sea, (as the Greekes write) by Ascanius, Eurilantes, Romulus, and Remus, Ne∣phewes to AEneas, or (as other Greekes write) by the Achiui, or (as other Greekes write) by the sonnes of Roma, a woman of Troy, married to the Latine King of the Aborige∣nes, which sonnes were Romulus and Remus, or (as Xenagoras writes) by the sonne of Vlisses by Circe, to omit many other opinions of the Greekes. The Latine Historians doe no lesse vary. Some say it was built by the sonnes of AEneas, namely, Romulus and Remus. Others say that Ascanius built Alba, and Remus built Capua, and Romulus built Ianiculum, after called Rome. But I omit these diuers opinions, and will follow Leander the Fryar, who saith that Rome the daughter of the King in Italy, built Rome the same yeere that Moses was borne. And when the City had beene long forsaken, for the vn∣wholsome ayre of the Fennes adioining, that Euander comming from Arcadia into Italy, seated himselfe vpon the Mount Palatine, and built a City called Palantium, of his City in Arcadia, and he being dead, that Hercules comming with an Army, left some of his consorts here, who built vpon the Mount of Saturnius, after called Capitolinus. Before the destruction of Troy, for the vnwholsome aire, Rome being againe forsaken, that the Albani began to dwell there in Cottages, and seed their flockes there. For by the continuall ouer flowings of Tyber, the field was made fenny, and the aire vnwholsome; but Historians write that vpon sacrifices made to God Vertuno, these Fennes by little and little were dried vp. Hee adde that Amulius tooke the Kingdome of the Albani from his brother Numiter, whose daughter Rhea a Vestall Virgin being great with child by Amulius, Mars, or any other, brought forth Romu∣lus and Remus, and Amulius left them by Tyber to perish in the waters, but a shee wolfe sed them, and after Faustulus ouerseer of al the flocks and cattell of Amulius, tooke them home, who comming to ripe yeeres killed Amulius, and restored their Grand-father Numitor to his Kingdome: but themselues being desirous to build a City vpon the Mount Palatine, at the foote whereof they had been cast out, Romulus drew with a plow the circuit of the Citie, of a quadrangular forme, in the 430. yeere after the destruction of Troy, and in the yeere of the World 3211. He gaue Mount Celius to be inhabi∣ted by Celius King of Toseany, aiding him against the Sabines, and then taking by force

the Sabine weomen, and they making peace betweene them, he gaue to Tatius and his Sabines for their dwelling the Mountaines Capitolinus and Quirinalis, and to his brother Remus the Mount Auentinus, and kept for himselfe and his men the Moun∣taines Palatinus and Esquilinus, till the rest being dead, himselfe alone became Lord of all. The seuen rockes were of old called seuen hils, hauing a pleasant plaine betweene them and Tyber: and this circuit is in forme of a bent bowe, the Tyber standing for the string. Romu'us made the City foure square, but he being dead, Ancus Martius in∣closed the Mount Ianiculus beyond Tyber, and Seruius inclosed other Mounts on this side of the Tyber. Six Kings raigned two hundred forty three yeeres in Rome, and Torquine being banished, it became a popular State, wherein Consuls yeerely chosen did gouerne, and eight hundred eighty seuen Consuls, in foure hundred sixty foure yeeres, by forty three battels obtained the Empire almost of the whole world. In the meane time the Decemuiri (that is tenne men) ruled for two yeeres, and the Tri∣bunes for Military affaires, hauing Consular power, ruled forty three yeeres, and in the time of any difficult warre, a Dictator was chosen, who with absolute power ruled till that businesse was ended, and there were no Magistrates for foure yeeres. At last Iulius Caesar with the title of perpetuall Dictator, inuaded the Empire, which being after diuided into the Orientall and Occidentall Empire, and the Occidentall being destroied by the incursions of barberous Nations, the Bishops of Rome by little and little cast their Orientall Lords out of Italy, and erected a new Occidentall Empire in France, that they might inuade the power of the Roman Emperors, and of the hea∣uenly iurisdiction vpon earth, vnder pretext of Religion, by a new monster of a Ro∣man wit, drawne from the supremacy of the Apostle Saint Peter.

Pliny in his time makes the circuit of Rome twenty miles, and Vopiscus in the time of the Emperour Aurelius, makes the circuit fifty miles, but he ioyned to Rome all the neighbour villages. At this day if you adde to Rome the two parts beyond Tyber, cal∣led Trasteuere and Borgo, the circuit at the most is fifteene miles, for others say thir∣teene or fourteene, besides that a very great part of this circuit within the walles is not inhabited: and the walles not withstanding lie not vpon their old foundations, neither are built of that matter, but as it pleased those who repaired them. Among which Belisarius gouernour of Italy, vnder the Emperour Iustinian, built Rome demolished by the Gothes, and made the circuit of the walles lesse; and Pope Adrian the first, a Roman, the wals being fallen, built them as now they stand, and many of his succes∣sours haue since added new ornaments to decaied Rome. But the old wals (as appeares by some ruines) were built of foure square stone, the rest are of diuers building, as it pleased the repairers, and haue a bricke gallery to walke vpon, vnder which men may stand dry when it raines; and they being ready to fal with age, haue many round Tow∣ers, which in like sort are ready to fall. Rome at this day is troubled with the old ouerflowings of Tyber, by reason of the Tybers narrow bed, not able to receiue the wa∣ters, falling suddenly from neere mountaines, after great raine or melting of snow. For memory whereof, these inscriptions are vpon the wals of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerua. In the yeere 1530. (if I be not deceiued; for the first words are raced out) the Ides of October, Clement the seuenth being Pope.

Huc Tyber ascendit, iam{que} obruta totafuisset Roma, nisi celerem virgo tulisset opem: Thus farre came Tyber, and all Rome had drown'd, Had we not from the Virgin, swift helpe found.

And there in another place this verse is written, in the yeere MVD.

Extulit huc tumidas turbidus Amnis aquas. Thus farre this muddy brookes water did swell.

In each place is a red marke vpon the wals how high the water ascended, by which it appeares, marking the seat of the Church, that all the plaine was ouerflowed be∣tweene it and the Tyber. By reason of these flouds, and for that the City is built vpon the caues of old Rome, (which makes the foundations to be laid with great charge) and also by reason of the vapours rising from the Baths, the aire of Rome is

at this day vnwholsome. The Romans drinke raine water, and the troubled waters of Tyber, kept in Cesternes, and they bragge that it is proper to the water or Tyber, the longer it is kept to grow more pure. Surely strangers doe not like that water, howsoe∣uer the Romans (making a vertue of necessity) doe say that it was onely made good to drinke at Rome, and no where els, by the blessing of Pope Gregory the Great.

Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome, I will first set downe out of order the seuen Churches, famous for the indulgences of Popes, which they say were built by the Emperour Constantine the Great. Then I will set downe the rest in due order, as they are seated: And because I finished in hast the view of Rome in foure daies, I will distinguish the Antiquities into foure daies iournies.

The first day being to visit these seuen Churches, by reason of their distance, and the hast we made, I and my consorts hired each of vs a mule, each man for two poli, and we neuer found our errour till the euening, when we demanding the way of a man of meane sort, he replied thus with some anger; What doe you ride to heauen, and we poore wretches goe on foote without shooes to visit these holy Churches. By this we found our errour, and were glad that we had passed that day without further danger. In generall these Churches are bare on the Inside, without any pictures, except some few about the Altars. This day we first rode to the chiefe Church, (A) dt S. Giouanni Laterano, seated vpon Mount Celius, and built by Constantine the Great, in his Pallace, and it hath a stately Font, in which that Emperour was baptized; and in the Church there be foure most faire pillars of brasse. The Church is sustained by foure rowes of bricke pillars, and there hang certaine banners taken from the French, and neere the doore the Popes, Sergius the fourth, and Siluester the second, are buried in low monu∣ments. In the Church yard are old sepulchers, and little pillars of marble. Neere to this Church lie those holy staires, whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples, when our Italian consorts went to pray for a happy iourney, kneeling without the grates. But they that will haue the grates opened, to pray there, vse to creepe vpon their knees from staire to staire, and vpon each staire to say a pater noster, and Aue Maria. These staires are twenty six in number, diuided into three rowes, and they be of marble, vulgarly called Scale Sante, and were brought from the house of Pilate in Hierusalem. It is not safe for him to inquire after relikes, who will not worship them: yet to satisfie the curious, I will set downe the chiefe by beare-say. Here they shew a tooth of Saint Peter; a Cup in which Saint Iohn dranke poyson at the command of Demitian, and had no hurt. The cloth with which Christ dried his Disciples feet, the heads of Peter and Paul, the rodde of Aaron, the Arke of the couenant, the table at which Christ supped; three marble gates of Pilates house, the Image of Christ being twelue yeeres old, with the like. Part of these (they say) were brought from Hierusalem by the Emperour Titus, yet he was no Christian, nor like to regard the monuments of Christ. One Chappell of this Church is called, Sanctum Sanctorum, and is thought to haue beene the Chamber of Constantine, neither may any woman enter it. To con∣clude, the place is shewed here, in which many counsels haue beene held, and the Popes long dwelt here, before the Pallace in the Vaticane was built.

The Church of (B) Saint Peter in the Mount Vaticano, ioines to the Popes Pallace, they say it was built by Constantine the Great. The Popes haue giuen full remission of sinnes to them that pray here vpon certaine daies, and like remission for certaine yeeres sinnes, praying on other daies; and the remission of the third part of all sinnes, praying there vpon Saint Peters euen. And you must vnderstand that all these Churches haue some like indulgences. Here they shew the bodies of Saint Simeon, and Saint Iude the Apostle, and Saint Iohn Chrysostome, and of Pope Saint Gregory the Great: and the head of Saint Andrew and of Saint Luke the Euange∣list, and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and Christs face printed vpon the hand-kercher of Veronica, and the head of the speare thrust into the side of Christ, and among many pillars brought from Hierusalem, one vpon which Christ leaned, when he did preach and cast out Diuels, which yet hath power (as they say) to cast out Diuels. Alwaies vnderstand that in Italy Priests that cast out Diuels, are

most frequent, neither are they wanting in any place where the Papists can hide their impostures. Great part of these relikes they say were sent by the Turkish Emperour to Pope Innocent the eight. But I omit these things, into which none but Papists may safely inquire, and returne to the monuments which lie open to euery mans view. The Chappell is most rich in which Gregory the xiij. lies, and the stately sepulcher of Pope Paul the third hath most faire statuaes. The statua of Saint Peter of brasse placed vnder the Organs, was of old erected to Iupiter Capitolinus. In the Court of the Church (for I cannot call it a Church-yard) the Emperour Otho the second lies buried, in a low se∣pulcher of Porphry. There is a most faire Pineaple of brasse, guilded, more then fiue cubites high, which they say was brought hither from the monument of the Empe∣rour Andrian, in the place where the Castle of Saint Angelo now stands, (as likewise the Peacockes were brought from the Monument of Scipio.)

The third Church of S^t Paul is without the (XIII) gate of S^t Paul, about a mile from the City, in the way to Ostia, and they say it was built by Constantine, and it stands vp∣pon eighty eight pillars of marble, in foure rowes, each pillar being but one stone, and it is adorned with marble staires, and pictures Alla Mosaica, as if they were engrauen, which are onely in the chancell and neere the doore. The Popes haue giuen great in∣dulgences to these Churches, as well as to others. They shew here the bodies of Saint Timothy, Saint Celsus, and Sant Iulian, Disciples to Saint Paul, and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and S^t Paul, and a Crucifix which of old spake to Saint Briget, the Queene of Sueuia, and many armes and fingers of Saints. Neere this Church is that of Saint Anastatius, where the head of Saint Paul being cut off, made three leapes, and in the place where it fell, they say there sprang vp three fountaines, which are there to bee seene.

The fourth Church of Saint (C) Mary Maggiore, is vpon the Mount Esquiline: I will omit hence forward the indulgences and relikes, lest I be tedious. This Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble. The rich Chappell di praesepio, (so called of the cratch in which Christ was borne, being kept here) is stately adorned with the paue∣ment engraued, the arched roofe guilded, pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engra∣uen, the stately sepulcher of Pope Nicholas, and his statua of white marble. The Chap∣pell of Pius Qutntus, built for him after his death by Sixtus the fifth, is adorned with the Victory painted in golden letters, which he and his confederates had by sea against Selimus Emperour of the Turkes, and is adorned with statuaes guilded, with foure Angels guilded, and precious stones, together with the rare Art of engrauers and Painters.

The fifth Church S. Lorenzo, is without the (VIII) gate of that name, in the way to Tiburtina, something more then a mile from the City, and it is said to be built by Constantine the Great. He that goes to this Church euery wednesday in a whole yeere, shall deliuer a soule from Purgatory, if the Pope keepe his promise. It is adorned with a Pulpit of white marble, and most faire ophite stones, and at the doore, with a sepul∣cher of Saint Eustacius, of white marble curiously carued, and another sepulcher op∣posite to that.

The sixth Church S. Sebastiano, is without the (XII) gate of that name, more then a mile out of the City, in the way of Appius. Here is a place called Catacombe, and there is a well, in which they say the bodies of Saint Paul and Saint Peter did lie vnknowne a long time, and here is a way vnder earth to the Church yard of Calixtus, where they say the Christians lav hid, in the times of persecution; and that there were found 174. thousand which had beene made Martyres, and that eight of these were Bishops of Rome. Here on all sides with amazement I beheld the ruines of old buildings, and the sepulcher of the Emperour Aurelius is not farre from this Church.

The seuenth Church (D) di S. Croce in Gierusalem, is seated between the gate Mag∣giore, & the gate S. Giouanni, vpon the Mount Celius or rather Celiolus, being part of it, and it is said that Constantine the Great built it. Here they shew a little vessell filled with the blood of Christ and the spunge which they gaue him with vineger vpon the crosse, and the title which Pilate writ vpon the Crosse, and one of the thirty pence which

Iudas tooke for betraying Christ. And no woman may enter into the Chappell where∣in Helena is said to haue praied, but once onely in the yeere vpon the twelfth of March. And this Church giues the title to a Cardinall.

The second day we began the view of Rome with the (Q) Popes Pallace, seated in the part of the Citie, called Il'Borgo; which Pallace Pope Nicholas the third built, and Ni∣cholas the fifth compassed with walles, and the Pallace is of great circuit, and the staires are so easie, that Horses and Mules may goe vp to the top of the Mountaine, and with easie ascent and descent beare the Popes carriage. At the enterance there be three gal∣leries one aboue the other, whereof the two first were built by Leo the tenth, and Paul the third, and the third and highest by Sixtus Quintus, and they are all fairely painted and guilded. Vpon these lie two large chambers, and beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred seuentie and one walking paces, in the middest whereof is the famous Librarie of the Popes In vaticano; and therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Quintus who repaired it, and it is adorned with many faire pictures guilded all ouer. I did fee the seuerall roomes thereof. The first one hundred fortie and seuen walking paces long, had three rowes of Cubbards filled with bookes: the second was thirtie nine paces long; and the third containing the bookes of greatest price locked vp, was twentie paces long. Pope Sixtus the fourth built this Librarie, with the Chappell of the Pallace, and the Conclaue. The wall of the Chappell shineth like a glasse with precious stones: where the Pope Sixtus Quintus commanded Michael Angelo to paint the day of Iudgement, and the common report is, that this Pope promised this famous Painter that he would not come into the Chappell, till he had finished his worke; yet by some Cardinals perswasions that he broke his promise, and that the Painter there∣upon made the pictures of the Pope and the Cardinals in hell amongst the Diuels, so liuely as euery man might know them. Betweene this Chappell and the Conclaue, (where they chuse the Popes) lies a Kingly Gallery, not vn worthily called vulgarly Sa∣la Regia, (which others call Sala del Conclaue). The wall of this Gallery in like sort shi∣neth with pretious stones, and the pauement is of pretious marble, the arched roose all guilded, and at the vpper end I wondred to see the Massacro of Paris painted vpon the wall, with the Popes inscription greatly commending that detestable cruelty. At the same vpper end the foresaid Chappell (as you come vp) lies one the left hand, and the Conclaue on the right hand; in which Conclaue the Cardinals meete to chuse the Pope, deuided into seuerall roomes, but meeting at a common table, and when they haue chosen him, they leade him into a Chappell at the lower end, and neere the dore of the said Kingly Gallery and place him there vpon a hollow seate of Marble. I know not whether this be the chaire, in which the sex of the Pope is tried, but I am sure it is hollow, with a hole in the bottom. After they put a Banner out of a high window, and there make knowne to the people the name that the Pope hath chosen, and then his armes are hung vp round about. This Chappell at the lower end of the said Gallery, hath the name of Pope Paul the third, of the Family of Farnese, and it is little, and of a round forme (as I remember), but it is beautifull beyond imagination. The images of the Apostles seeme to bee of siluer, and Paradice painted vpon the arched roofe, with Angels flying, being the worke of Michael Angelo, seemed to me admirable. Vpon the other side of the said Library is the priuate Gallery of the Pope, looking into the Gar∣den (3) Beluedere, which is seated vpon the side of the Mount Vatican, where Pope In∣nocent the eight built part of the Pallace, and called it Beluedere, of the faire prospect of all Rome subiect to the eye. And Pope Iulius the second placed in this Garden many very faire statuaes, namely, of the Riuer Nilus, of the Riuer Tyber, of Romulus and Re∣mus playing with the papps of a shee-Wolfe, all being placed in the open Garden, and a most faire statua of Apollo, another admirable statua of Lycaon with his children, another of the boy Antoninus, whom the Emperour Adrian loued, another of Hercules another of Cupid, another of Venus, another of Cleopatra sleeping with her arme ouer her face, and bearing a Serpent, being a wonderfull faire statua. And these are all locked vp, and not to be seene without fauour.

Hence we went to the Castle (4) of Saint Angelo of old called Moles Adriani, for it

was the Sepulcher of the Emperour Adrian, vpon the top whereof was the Pineapple of brasse, which before I said was since placed in the open Court-yard of Saint Peters Church. This Sepulcher of Adrian called Moles (4) was demolished by Beasarius, in the warre of the Goathes, vpon the ruines whereof Pope Boniface the eight built this Castle, and Pope Alexander the sixth compassed it with walles and ditches, and placed therein a guard of Souldiers, and built from this Castle to the Popes Pallace an open and a close gallery, by which vpon any tumult, the Pope may passe safely from his Pal∣lace to the Castle. And after Pope Paul the third built very faire chambers in this Ca∣stle. On the outside is the statua of Pope Pius the fourth, and within is the statua of Paul the third, vpon which these verses are written of the Emperour Charles the fifth comming to Rome.

E Lybia venit Romanas victor ad arces Caesar, & in niueis aureus iuit Equis. Ille triumphauit, sed tu plus Paule triumphas; Victor nam{que} tuis oscula dat pedibus. With victory to Rome from Affrick came Caesar, on milke white Horses, golden all. He Triumph'd, Paul thy triumph hath more fame, This Conquerour to kisse thy feete did fall.

In this Castle they shew the head of Adrtan, the statua of Saint Peter, a bunch of Grapes of brasse, the place where the Cardinall Caictan escaped out of prison, and a Trap-doore where prisoners are let downe into a dungeon. The chambers are built in a circle round about the great chamber in the middest, which is called Salaregia, and without is a round Garden within the walles, and vpon the top of the Castle, in the place of the said Pine-apple, is the statua of the Angell Michael, of which the Castle hath the name. The medowes of Qutntis Cincinates lie neere this Castle.

In the (5) Market place or field before the Church of Saint Peter (where of old was Metonianus Circus), Sixtus Quintus adorning Rome with many ornaments, erected an Obeliske seuentie two foote high, vpon the top whereof the ashes of Iulius Caesar were put of old: but in the yeere 1586 this Pope consecrated the same to the Crosse, and put vpon the top of it a Crosse guilded, and beneath foure Lions guilded. This Obe∣liske is vulgarly called La Guglia di S. Pietro. The globe, in which the ashes of Iulius Cae∣sar were put, is now shewed in the Capitoll, and in the place thereof stands the said Crosse, with the Armes of the said Pope.

In this part of the Citie called Il Borgo, and in the very Market-place before Saint Pe∣ters Church, is another Church called Saint Marie In Campo Santo, because the yard thereof is all of earth brought from Hierusalem, wherein all strangers are buried, and they say, there bodies are consumed in three dayes. Neere that lies the Church of Saint Spirito (called also Sassia of the Saxons that of old dwelled there), and this is an Hospi∣tall for the sicke, and for Orphanes, the rent whereof is said to haue been each day se∣uen thousand Crownes, till Pope Sixtus Quintus did alien great part thereof to other v∣ses, and still of the surplusage at the yeeres ende, many Orphen Virgins are married. The Chappell of Saint Angelo lies close to the Castle, and was built by the Pope, who singing the Leteny there in the time of a great plague, made the Romans beleeue, that he did see Michael the Angell putting vp a bloudy sword in the sheath, and hereof the Castle hath the name. And it is a Schoole, or Fraternitie of Gentlemen, like to our Companies in London. The Church of Saint AEgidius the Abbot, hath great concourse to it in the moneth of September, when Agues raigne in Rome; for this Saint is the Pa∣tron for Agues.

From hence we went out of (II) Borgo by the Gate Saint Spirito, and entered the se∣cond part of Rome Trasteuire, by the Gate (XVI) Settimtana, where vnder the Church of Saint Peter Montorio, is the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Nero, that is a place to represent Nauall fights, and neere it is the like of Iulius Caesar. From this Church, to the Church Saint Honorio, is a Plaine, wherein was the large and long Circus or Theater of Iulius Caesar. In this part of the Citie the Church of Saint Cecilia giues the title of a Cardinall, and so

doth the Church of Saint Grisogona. The said Church of Saint Mary in this part of the City, is the same which the old Romans called Taberna Meritoria, where they shew a Fountaine, whence (they say) that oyle did flow abundantly, and runne towards Ti∣ber, the same night when Christ was borne; and this Church also giues the title of a Cardinall, and the old Romans called it Taberna Meritoria, of the souldiers nourished there, after they were past seruice by age or wounds. This Church of Saint Peter is seated vpon the Mount Ianiculus, in which there is a stately Monument erected by Pope Iulius the third, to his vncle the Cardinall dt Monte. The Church of Saint Pan∣cratius hath many stones of porphry, and giues the title of a Cardinall, and the Friars of Saint Ambrose dwell in this Monastery. The Church Saint Honorio is a Monaste∣ry, and giues the title of a Cardinall. Neere the gate called Ripa, was of old the Ro∣mans Armory, of great circuit, lying vpon the Tyber, the vast ruines whereof yet re∣maine, and the people of Rome seruing for more then two hundred yeeres in the warres without any pay, was wont here to take Armes at their going forth, and here to lay them vp at their returne. And neere this place he the meadowes, giuen by the people of Rome to Mucius Scaeuola, for his valiant behauiour with King Porsena.

Hence turning to the left hand, we came to the (III) Iland of Tyber, in which the Church of S. Bartholmew (of old consecrated to AEsculapius) is adorned with 4 stately pillars of porphry, it giues the title to a Cardinall. At the foot of the bridge (XXXIX) S. Maria, as you come out of the Iland and enter into Rome, is the ruined house of Pon∣tius Pilate, and opposite to that is the most ancient Church consecrated to the Moone, and vpon the other side another to the Sunne. Here also is the Theater of Marcellus, and the porch of Mercury.

Not farre thence is a marble head, called Bocca della verita, that is, the mouth of truth, of a woman (as I remember) falsifying her oath, and bewraied thereby; but others say it is the Idoll of Rbea. Here also is the Church of Saint Mary, called the Greeke Schoole, in which Saint Augustine is said to haue taught, but it is shut vp. At the foot of Mount Auentine. (where the Iewes vse to fish) if you looke backe, you shall see the ruines of the old bridge Sublicius (XLI) Thence going to the gate of Saint Paul, a∣mong vines, you shall see the ruines of one hundred and forty garners for corne, built of old by the Romans. In the pleasant meadow wherein the (XXXIIII) mount Testaceus lies, the Romans were wont of old to keepe their Olimpike games. The se∣pulcher of (6) Caius Cestius is most ancient, rising in a pyramis, and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred and thirty daies, which the common sort falsly thinkes to be the Monument of Romulus. This monument of stone is compassed with wals, and it hath an inscription in great letters, but raced out. Some also thinke that it is the monument of Publius Sestius. From the gate of Saint Paul we returned into the City, and vnder the Church of Saint Gregory, where Laundresses continually wash, they say that of old the (7) Circus Maximut), or greatest Theater) did lie betweene the Mount Palatine and the Mount Auentine, being more then a quarter of a mile long, and halfe a quarter broad, which was built by Tarquinius Priscus for the hunting of Buls, and running of Horses, and after was inlarged by Iulius Caesar and other Empe∣rours, so as it receiued 260 thousand beholders, being adorned with pillars and com∣modious seates, and at this day the place is called Cerchi. Neere this place were of late three rowes of pillars, one aboue the other; and this monument is called Il Setti zonio di Senero, of seuen souldiers engraued thereupon, and is thought to be the sepulcher of Septismius Seuerus, but the Pope Sixtus the fifth pulled it downe. Neere this place vp∣pon (XXIIII) Mount Auentine lie the Bathes halfe ruined of Antonius Caracalla, built of bricke, the large chambers whereof, almost innumerable, are of exceeding height, hauing many stones and pillars of marble, whereby it appeares to haue beene a most stately work. The (8) church of S. Stephano Orotando, seated in mount Celius, giues the title of a Cardinall, and is possessed by Fryars of Hungary, and it was a Heathen Church of Faunus. There lie old and high wals, said to haue beene part of the conduit bringing water to the Capitoll. I haue before spoken of the Church of (A) Saint Iohn Lateran, being one of the seuen Churches, and of Constantines Font therein, and of the Chappel called Holy of Holies, and of the holy staires. I wil adde that here is an Obe∣liske, called la Guglia, of old consecrated to the Sunne, and brought out of AEgypt,

which Iulius Caesar, or Augustus, did direct in the Circus Maximus, but Pope Sixtus the fifth brought it hither, in the fourth yeere of his Popedome, and the yeere of our Lord 1588. and consecrating it to the Crosse, set a guilded crosse vpon the top of it. This Obeliske, if it were of one stone, were to be preferred to that of Saint Peter, neere the Popes Pallace, for otherwise it is higher and more curiously carued. I haue spoken be∣fore of the Church (D) S. Croce in Gicrusalem, being one of the seuen Churches, seated neere the gate Maggiore. At the gate of this Church they shew a place where the whores keepe a feast vpon the twenty of August, and there of old was the Temple of Venus. The Theater of bricke which is in this Church, they say was built by Statilius Tamrus. Hence returning into the City, we passed by a place, where of old was a mo∣nument called Trofei di Marie, erected to Caius Marius, triumphing vpon Iugurtha and the Cymbri, and they say that the ruines thereof were admirable, but now it is all defa∣ced. Neere the staires of the Capitoll, they shew a ruinous heape which some say, was this monument of Marius. Passing towards the Capitoll, we did see a Triumphall Arch erected to Galienus, which of the Church adioining is called the Arch of Saint Vito, and it is little perished with age.

Concerning the Churches lying from the Capitoll to the south parts of Rome: The Church of Saint Anastatia, that of Saint Mary In portico (of old dedicated by the Hea∣thens to Pudicitia), that of Saint Iohn, that of Saint Paul vpon mount Celius, that of Saint Mary In Dominica, that of Saint Sistus, that of Saint Sabina vpon Monnt Auen∣tine (in which they shew a stone cast by the Diuell at the head of Saint Dominicke, and broken by miracle,) that of Saint Prisca (of old dedicated to Hercules) that of Saint Balbina vpon Mount Auentine, that of Saint Iohn at the gate Latina (where it is said Do∣mitian cast Saint Iohn into boyling oyle, but he escaped without hurt) that of Saint Mary in Via, without the gate of Saint Paul, towards Ostia, all these Churches giueti∣tles to Cardinals. Neere the Church of Saint Alexius, is a palme tree, whereof I remem∣ber not to haue seene any other at Rome. In the Church of Saint Saua the Abbot, neere the other vpon Mount Auentine, be the sepulchers of the Emperours Vespasian and Ti∣tus his son, of white marble, and the Altar hath two pillars of porphery.

The third day we began our view of Rome, at the (10) pillar of the Emperor Traian, erected to him making warre against the Parthians, which he neuer saw, dying in his returne. It is seated in a little market place, and was consecrated by Pope Sixtus the fifth to Saint Peter, whose Image of brasse guilded ouer, is set vpon the top thereof, with this inscription in Latin; Sixtus the fifth dedicated it to Saint Peter, the third yeere of his Pope∣dome. The victories and actions of Traian are ingrauen vpon it, and his ashes were of old placed in the top, and here also was the horse of Traian. This pillar is said to be one hundred twenty three foote high, and it hath within, two hundred twenty three staires to the top, and forty foure windowes to let in light. Hence we turned towards the City, and came to (11) Campus Martius, neere the hill Citorius, which now is called piazza Colonna, of the pillar of Antoninus Pias there erected, which Pope Sixtus the fifth dedicated to Saint Paul, setting his Image on the top, and it hath about one hundred and seuenty staires to ascend, and fifty sixe windowes, and the outside is curiously en∣grauen with the actions of Antoninus. The foresaid Campus Martius was the field of Tarquin the proud, which the people of Rome dedicated to Mars, for military exercises. Neere the Church of Saint Mary liberatrice dalle pene d'Inferno, seated in Forum Rominum, and neere the (23) Arch of Settimius was of old the Temple of Vesta, where her Virgines kept the sacred fier, and the Image of Minerua, and being conuicted of vn∣chaftity, were led out of the gate Salaria with silence and were buried aliue, in a place there called Campus Seeleratus, being left or buried in a caue with a candle lighted, and water and milke. Neere this Church are most high pillars of the ruines of a marble gal∣lery, which Caligula built from the Capitoll to the Mount Palatine. The (12) Church of S. Mary Soprala Minerua, is so called, for being of old consecrated to Minerua, and it giues the title of a Cardinall. Behind the Altar, is the statua of Pope Leo the tenth, and neere it another of Clement the seuenth, both of white marble; and another of Paul the fourth of brasse. In this Church I did see the most proud procession of the Pope, and there was such a presse to kisse his feet, as I had almost beene carried by force to passe them, or vndergoe capitall danger by refusall. The Church of (13) Saint Mary Re∣tonda,

was of old called Pantheon, and the building is most ancient and magnificent, being round in forme, & hauing no window, but all the light comming from the open roofe, whence the water falling is conuaied vnder the pauement, and it is about seuen∣ty walking paces large euery way. The porch is borne vp with fifteene marble pillars, each pillar being of one stone, and all of admirable beauty and bignes. The doore is of brasse, the wals of brick, with the inside couered with precious stones, and the paue∣ment is of marble and porphery. Marcus Agrippa sonne in law to Augustus built this Church, and dedicated it to Iupiter the Reuenger, and to Ceres, and to all the gods, whereupon it was called Pantheon. Not farre thence are the ruines of the Bath of A∣grippa, in a place called Ciambella, und neere the Church of Saint Eustace, great ruines of the Baths of Nero are yet remaining. The place of old called (14) Circus Agonius, is now called la piazza Nauona, and it is the largest market place of Rome, wherein markets are kept euery wednesday. The Romans vsed it to see plaies and games of old, being a large place, yet of greater length then bredth. Here lies the Spaniards Church Saint Iacobo, and many of that Nation dwell there; who vpon Easter euen, and vpon festiuall times of their owne Nation, vse to make fier-workes there, with many other solemne games. It hath three fountaines, but the building is poore. At one end of this market place, in a corner of a street opposite to a publike Pallace, is the statua of Pasquin; vpon a wall of a priuate house, which hath neither armes nor feet, they being cut off by pas∣sengers in the night. For all libels, euen against the Pope himselfe, vse to be made in forme of a dialogue, and fastened vpon this statua of Pasquine, and another of Marfo∣rio (whereof I shall speake after) they two bearing the persons one of the question ma∣ker, the other of the answeret. Neere the Church of (15) Saint Mary de la Consolatione, as we came backe into the City, our guide shewed vs a place, where the house of Ouid did stand. Concerning the Churches lying about the Mount Capitoline; that of Saint Mary In Acquiro, seated in the market place vulgarly piazza Crapanella, giues the title of a Cardinall. In the same market place is the monastery and Church of the Iesuites. The Church of Saint Mauro hath a little Obeliske erected. That of Saint Eustaeo giues the title to a Cardinall. Neere it lies the Church of Saint Lew is proper to the French, (for all Kingdomes and Prouinces haue their peculiar Churches at Rome.) The Church of Saint Apollinaris, and that of Saint Thomas In pariont, and that of Saint Laurence In Damaso and that of Saint Angelo Inpiscaria (which of old was confecrated to Inno) and that of Saint Nicholas In Carcere, doe all giue the titles of Cardinals. The Church and Hospitall called Saint Mary del' Anima, is proper to the Dutch Nation. The Church and Hospitall of Saint Thomas, vulgarly di S. Tomaso, is built for the Eng∣lish, and is seated neere the (25) Pallace of Farnest.

The fourth day we began the view of Rome at the Market-place, called (16) la piazza di Fieri, lying in the way from the Iland of Tyber, as you goe to the Bridge of S. Augelo. Here was the house of the harlot Flora, who made the people of Rome her heire, wherup∣on the Romans to couer her shame, made her the goddesse of flowers, and yeerely kept her birth day vpō the third of April, of which feast I shall speak after. This Marketplace is seated in the most inhabited place of Rome, among all the chiefe shops of Merchants. And therein the family of Orsini haue a Pallace, and neere the same was the Theater of Pompey, & his court or publike house, pulled down because Caesar was therin killed. And from this Market place towards the Iland of Tyber, lyes the streete of the Iewes. In the way from the Church of the Trinitie, to the Mount Quirinalis, vulgarly called (17) Monte Cauallo, were the famous Gardens of Salustius, and neere that Church was the Naumachia (that is the place to represent Nauall fights) called of Augustus. Neere to the Church Saint Rocco, lies the (18) Sepulcher of Augustus called Mansoleum, the ruines whereof yet remaine. He built it for himselfe and other Emperours, of a round forme, and adorned it with stones of Marble and Porphery, and like pillers and Obe∣liskes, placing his owne statua of brasse vpon the top, so as they daily dig vp goodly Images out of the Caue and Garden neere it. The Pinacle of this Monument Pope Sixtus the fifth remoued to the Church Saint Marie Maggiore, and this monument with the Groue planted about it, reached from the Church Saint Rocco, to Saint Marie delpopolo. Neere to the Gate (IIII) del Popolo lies the said Church of that name, vnder the Adtar whereof the bones of Nero were laid, which, they say, were kept by spirits,

till Pope Pascall by reuelation from the blessed Virgin had warning to cast the bones into Tiber. Whensoeuer the Plague is in Rome, this Church is made one of the seuen in the place of Saint Sebastian, with all the indulgences to it belonging, and it alwaies carries that title. Here bee two faire Sepulchers, whereof one is for a Chauncelor of Millan, the other for Pope Sixtus the fifth sisters sonne, both the worke of Andrew San∣souine. The yard of this Church hath an Obeliske, almost as faire as that neere Saint Iohn Lateran, which Pope Sixtus the fifth also erected. Concerning the Churches from this Gate del popolo, to the (XXII) Mount Capitolino, the Church of Saint Laurence in Lucinia, that of Saint Siluester, that of the holy Apostles, that of Saint Marcello, and that of Saint Marke, doe all giue titles to Cardinals. Neere the Church Saint Siluester is the Monastery delle Conuertite, that is, of Harlots repenting, and becomming Nunnes. The Church S. Mary de Rione dellapigna, is a Monastery di Sante Donne miserabili, that is, of holy miserable women, and neere that is another Monastery delle mal Maritate, that is, of women vnfortunately married and left in want by their husbands. The fore∣said Gate delpopolo, was repaired and beautified by Pope Pius the fourth. Neere it lies the most sweere Vineyard of Pope Iulius the third, and his pleasant Fountaine, casting vp water two elles high. Not farre thence is a triumphal Arch erected to Domitian, vul∣garly called Portogallo. From this gate Delpopolo, towards the (V) gate Pinciana, and neere the (17) Church della Trinita, we did see the Pallace of the Florentine Cardinall de Medicis (who from a Cardinal became the Duke of Florence by right of succession).

And this Pallace was rich & stately, the staires winding so artificially, as it was a beau∣tiful sight to look in a perpendicular line from the top to the foot, and vpon the staires was a faire statua of Apollo. Hence there was a Gallery open on the sides towards the Garden, fuil of beautifull Images, of Lions, a shee-Wolfe, a Ramme, all of white Marble, with other Images, and very faire pillars. And the first Garden had onely flowers; the second in the vpper part, had a sweete Groue, and the lower part was full of fruit trees. There was a Fountaine with a brasen Image of Mercurie vpon it. Vpon a Mount called Pernasso, were many Images of white Marble, of Pegasus, of the Muses, and one of Cleopatra, fairer then that I saw in the Popes Garden, with two Ima∣ges of Cerberus, and another monster. There were two large Cesternes of Porphery. And in a Chamber were the Images, of a Satyr, a Nimph, and a Gryphon. Lastly, in the Groue were staires paued with carued Marble, with figures of fishes, and there was a most faire statua of Europa sitting vpon a Bulles backe. The outside of the Groue was all of Firre trees, which are greene in winter, but the inside had most pleasant walkes a∣mong rowes of many other kindes of trees. In this Groue was a most sweete Arbour, hauing foure roofes, and as it were chambers, one aboue the other, the first whereof is twentie staires from the ground, whence lay a most large and most faire Gallery of stone, vnder which was a most pleasant solitarie walke, betweene two walles, all set with Orangetrees, and like fruit.

The large way leading to the Cities Gate Pia, was paued by Pope Pius the fourth, and hath on each side a pleasant walke, and is also called Pia of the same Pope, as the (VII) Gate is which hee built. Betweene this Gate and the next of (VIII) Saint Laurence was of old a large Park, in which the people of Rome kept beasts to be hunted. Hence we went towards the Mount Quirinalis, vulgarly (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo, and vnder the most pleasant Vineyard of the Cardinall of Ferraria, were many Caues and old ruines, and there is a field, where in honour of (16) Flora (as I said formerly de∣scribing that Market-place) the harlots of Rome kept a yeerely feast, and dwelling in the foresaid Caues, vsed to runne from thence naked into this field, with vnspeakable libertie of speech and gesture.

From hence passing a little lane, we ascended to (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo which is so called of two Horses of Marble set there, which they write to haue been giuen to Nero by Mithridates King of Armenia, the one wrought by Phydias, the other by Praxi∣tiles. The common people holdes one of them for Bucephalus, and thinkes that Alex∣ander holdes his bridle, and that they were wrought by the foresaid engrauers in emu∣lation one of the other. But the farre different age of Alexander, and the said engrauers makes this opinion vnprobable. Two men are ingrauen, who holde the bridles of the horses, as if they should leade them, and some thinke that they were made for two hor∣ses

of Diomedes, which did eate mans flesh, and were tamed by Hercules. The Pallace of Nero was neere this Mount, and from thence they shew some ruines thereof. This Pallace (as histories doe witnesse) did reach from Mount Celius to Mount Palatine, and to the furthest part of Mount Esquiline, and it was compassed with a lake, hauing with∣in the circuit thereof, Meadowes, Vineyards, Woods, and Parkes, and all the house was guilded, and thereupon was called golden; it shined with Iuory, and pretious stones, and the great Hall thereof did moue round like the World, casting out flowers and odors. From hence Nero saw Rome burnt with ioy, and all this building was burnt in the time of Traian the Emperour; and when Nero had finished this house, he said, that he began then first to dwell like a man. Vpon this said Mountaine of the Horses, the Pope hath a stately Pallace, which a Cardinall of Ferrara built, and he being dead, Pope Gregorie the thirteenth seased vpon it. The staires are very faire, each hauing his pillar, and the ascent is most easie. I think a fairer Gallerie can hardly be seene, being one hun∣dred and twentie walking paces long. There is a Chamber wherin Pope Sixius the fifth died. A second wherein Ambassadours are heard. A third in which Cardinals are chosen. The Popes study is very pleasant, and so is the Garden, hauing many Foun∣taines, Groues, Labyrinthes, a Rocke artificially distilling water, and many most sweet Arbours. Moreouer, on this Mount is the most faire Fountaine of Pope Sixtus the fifth, called the Happie; for hither is the water brought from the stately Conduit with∣out the Gate Maggiore, in the way (IX) Praenestina, reaching many miles, which was built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, with Imperiall magnificence, in the yeere 1587. And this Fountaine casteth out waters from the mouthes of foure Lions of white Marble. Like∣wise vpon the same is the Image of Moses, striking the Rocke with his Rod; and there be two other mouthes lower to cast out water, and it is all engrauen with the said histo∣rie of Moses.

Descending from this Mount, we did see in a priuate Gentlemans house an Horse of brasse, esteemed at twenty fiue thousand pounds sterling, which Henrie the second had placed at Paris (as they said), it death had not preuented him. Hence towards the East we went forward towards the Bathes of Dioclesian, and by the way at the foote of the Mount of the Horses, we did see the Bathes of Constantine. A man cannot sufficiently wonder at the ruines of Dioclesians Baths, by which it seemes they were of incredible greatnesse; and they report, that this Emperour compelled many thousands of Chri∣stians to worke vpon this building for many yeeres. Vnder the earth are gates and diuers passages of vnknowne extent. Vpon these Bathes Pope Pius the fourth in the yeere 1561 built the Church Saint Mary of the Angels, and with the consent of the people of Rome gaue it to the Carthusian Friers. In the roomes of this Bath Pope Gre∣gorie the thirtenth, in the yeere 1575 built a Granary for Corne, and the said Church of Saint Marie is beautified with faire pillars thirtie spannes compasse, and with exquisite pictures, especially those two neere the Altar, of the Emperor Maximilian and his Em∣presse. Hence we went to the Church of Saint (C) Marie Maggiore, being one of the se∣uen Churches, and vnder this Church, vpon a Hill neere Saint Potentiana (which giues the title to a Cardinall) of old were the Nouatian Bathes. And vpon Mount (XXVI) Esquiline, neere the Church Saint Laurence In Palesperna, (giuing title to a Cardinall) were of old the Olimpike Bathes. And the said Church of Saint Marie is built, where the Temple of Isis stoode, highly honoured of the old Romans. Pope Sixtus the fifth brought hither in the yeere 1587 the foresaid Obeliske, from the Sepulcher of Augustus neere (18) Saint Rocco and it is the lowest and the least of all the Obeliskes. Vpon this Mount Esquiline was a place for burning dead bodies, but the Romans being offended with the smoke, Augustus gaue that field to Maecenas, who made most famous Gardens there. Hereabouts lies the Chappell of Saint Luke, peculiar to the Painters, and there was a groue consecrated to Iuno. The Church of Saint Anthony is little, but full of faire pictures, and in the Vineyard of the Hospitall, was the stately Church of Diana. And the famous Church of Mars was built, where that of Saint Martin now stands (which giues the title to a Cardinall). As we went from Mount Esquiline to the Thea∣ter of Vespasian, we saw by the way a rare Monument, built by the said Emperour, or

his sonne Titus vpon Mount Esquiline. It hath nine Cesternes vnder the ground, and is vulgarly called Sette sale, of seuen seuerall chambers, where of each is seuentene foote broad, twelue foote high, and one hundred thirtie seuen foote long, and hath foure doores, which so answere one another, as a man may see all the roomes at once. Neere the Church of Saint Clement is the wonderfull Theater of Vespasian, vulgarly called Il Coliseo, in which the people were wont to see the fighting of Fencers, the hunting of wilde beasts, and like games, and it receiued one hundred and nintie (others say eightie fiue) thousand persons, and the outside was of old round, but the inside of Oual forme, and as high as the top of Mount Celius. I obserued the building now to be of bricke, and the foundation to be sixtie walking paces broad, and to haue foure rowes of seates one aboue the other, and the inside from the foundation of the seates to bee eight wal∣king paces broad, and one hundred thirtie and fiue paces long. The ruines of the like Theater, but lesse, built by Statilius, lie neere the Church (D) San'Croce.

The foresaid Church of Saint Clement giues the title to a Cardinall, but the wals are all ruined, and this part is not inhabited, neither is the streete paued from thence to the Church (D) S. Croce, in memory (as they say) of Pope Ioane, which being great with childe, and hauing gone a folemne Procession from (A) Saint Iohn Lateran, to the said Church of the (D) holy Crosse, as she returned this way, amidst her pompe was deliue∣red of a Childe.

Neere to the said Theater of Vespasian lies the Triumphall Arch erected to Constan∣tine the great, when he had ouercome Maxentius, and it is most faire and curiously car∣ued. Neere that is the Church of Saint Marie the new, which giues the title to a Car∣dinal, and in the Garden is a monument of the idoll Serapis. The (22) Triumphal Arch erected to Vespasian, and Titus when hee came from the destruction of Ierusalem, hath but one Arch, and is lesse then the former erected to Constantine, but it is no lesse ador∣ned with their actions engrauen. Neere the said Church of Saint Marie the new, lie the vast ruines of the famous Temple of Peace, the roofe whereof is richly engrauen. Neere this is a kind of Gibet, which they called of old Tygillum Sororium, that is, the si∣sters rafter, because when the Horatij three brothers had killed the Curiutij three bro∣thers, yet onely one of the Horatij remaining aliue, he returning into the Citie, and fin∣ding his sister weepe for her priuate losse in a day of publique ioy, killed her with his owne handes, and for shew of iustice, was condemned to passe vnder this rafter, with∣out further punishment, in respect of his desert in that battell. Vpon mount Palatine of old was a Pallace, now called vulgarly (XXIII) Ilpalazzo Maggiore, in which most of the Emperours did dwell, and vpon the ruines thereof the deceased Cardinall Far∣nese had a pleasant Vineyard. And at the foote of this Mountaine, neere the Chappell of Saint Theodor, they say that Romulus and Remus were cast forth and nourished by a shee-Wolfe: for they say, that Tyber of old did runne this way, though now it hath changed the bed. The Church of Saint Cosmo giues the title of a Cardinall, and there the Temple of Romulus was of old seated. Also the Temple and Pallace of the Empe∣rour Marcus Aurelius, and his Empresse Faustina, daughter to Antoninus Pius, were in this place. In the same field of old called the (11) Roman Market-place. I said be∣fore, that the Temple of the Vestall Virgins was seated, neere the Church Saint Marie Liberatrice, which was also consecrated to Venus. There also in the field called Vac∣cino, three pillars are yet remaining of the ruines of the Marble Gallerie which Caligula built, and those pillars are very high, and not farre from them was the Lake or Gulfe, into which Curtius cast himselfe for his Countries sake. The Triumphall Arch erected to L. Septimius Seuerus, for his victory against the Parthians, is curiously engrauen with that warre, and it is the fairest Arch, next that of Constantine, and it is seated at the foote of the Mount Capitoline, in the Market place, called of old Forum Romanum (for it began at the foote of the (XXII) Mount Capitoline, and reached to the foote of (XXIII) Mount Palatine, where now is the Church of Saint Cosmo.) And therein was a Monument erected, called la Ringhiera, from whence Orations were made to the people, and it is probable, that this was the place called Rostra, where Cicero made his Orations to the people, for Antiquaries agree that it was in this Market-place. In which

also at the foote of the Capitol, of old was a Pillar, called Milliare Aureum, which shew∣ed the way to all the Gates, and whether soeuer a man would goe. There also at this day is a Church with a brasen dore, where was the Treasurie of the people of Rome, the gates whereof Iulius Caesar broke, and tooke from thence infinite treasure. Neere this place is the statua of Iupiter Panarius (others say of the Riuer Rheine) vpon the head whereof stood one of the feete of Domitians Horse of brasse, and this statua is now cal∣led Marforio, and it is of Marble, lying at length as vpon a Tombe, as that (14) of Pas∣quin stands vpright against a wall, and vpon these two Images are fastened all the libels of Rome, framed in manner of dialogue. This statua of Marforio was of late taken vp by Pope Clement the eighth out of the valley, and placed vpon this Mount before the Capitoll, as appeareth by the inscription besides that the place was to be seene whence it was taken.

Vpon this Mount (XXII) Cápitoline, of old was seated the famous Capitoll, and now there is the Senate house, the building whereof hath no magnificence. Betweene two Senate houses is a yard, in which lies the Rock Tarpeia; from the top whereof condemned men were cast of old. In the fore-yard of the Capitoll, is a horsemans sta∣tua of brasse, guilded, which was erected to the Emperour Marcus Aurelius, and for the engrauers art is held of inestimable price. Frō this place great part of Rome lies open to the eye in a sweete prospect. The foresaid statua was set in this place by Pope Paul the 3 in the yere 1538. Therby lies a foot statua of white Marble, & the fore said monument, (9) which Pope Sixtus the fifth, in the yeere 1590 remoued to this place from the old monumēt erected to Coius Marius. There also is the foresaid statua of (23) Marforio which was taken away by the Consuls of Rome from the first place, and placed here by Pope Clement the eight. Here also is the pillar of Combat, and a most pleasant fountaine built by Pope Sixtus the fourth, where lie two ancient Images of white mar∣ble of two riuers Tygris and Nylus. There be also three pillars brought from the Tem∣ple of Concord (where the old Senators of Rome did meete.) Within the Capitoll or Senate house it selfe, we did see many most faire antiquities, namely, statuaes erected to Iulius Caesar, to Octauius, to Augustus, and to Marius seuen times Consull; the I∣mage of Hercules of brasse guilded ouer, which was digged out of the ruines of the Temple of Hercules, in the time of Pope Sixtus the fourth, also the Images of Her∣cules his sonne, of Iupiter, of Minerua, and of Ceres, all of marble, a head of brasse vpon which was engrauen Iunius M. Brutus; two statuaes of yong men, whereof one stan∣deth vpright in the habite of a seruant, the other being naked, hath one foot aboue the other knee, with a needle in his hand to pull a thorne out of it, and both are of brasse guilded ouer, and of admirable beauty. The Image of Auentine digged out of Mount Auentine, a brasen image of a shee wolfe which gaue sucke to Romulus and Remus, and it was made of fines imposed vpon vsurers, a brazen statua of AEneas, a brasen statua erected to Pope Sixtus the fifth, for repressing the banished men, another of marble erected to Pope Leo the tenth. We did see in the hall of Iudgement within this Capi∣toll, the statuaes of marble erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth, to Pope Paui the third, and to King Charles made a Senator of Rome. Vpon the sight of these, a Gen∣tleman told vs, that by a Law he was made infamous, who should make mention of erecting a statua to any Pope while he liued. In the foreyard of the Capitoll, we did see the fragments of an huge Coloffus, and vpon the wall neere the staires, the Triumphs of Marcus Aurelins, engranen in square marble stones. There we did also see marble fragments digged vp vnder the Arch of Settimius, vpon which were engrauen the names of Consuls, Dictators, and Censors, and vnder the very porch, the head of an Emperour, the pillar of Nauall fights, the sepulcher of Settimius Alexander Seuerus, and of his mother Iulia Mammea, brought hither from the field of Fabricius; the image of Minerua, certaine images of brasse of the Monster Sphynx; the bones intombed of Agrippina neece to Augustus, and wife to Germanicus; the Image of a Lyon deuouring another beast, and certaine ancient vessels to keepe wine. Vpon this Mountaine, of old were sixty Temples; but of all other the Temple of Iupiter Optimus Maximus built by Tarquine the proud, was most esteemed by the old Romans. From this Mountaine

we ascended by 128. broad staires of marble (brought hither from the Temple of Quirinus vpon Monte Canalle) to the Church of Saint Maria Ara Caeli, built vpon the ruines of the Temple of Iupiter Feretrius, and of the Pallace of the Emperour Augu∣stus. And vpon these staires were two statuaes erected to the Emperour Constantine, and the Church it selfe is adorned with many marble pillers and stones, and a Pulpit of porphery, and it hath the name of an Altar, which they shew there erected to the Son of the Virgin, by Augustus, who they say had read in the Oracles of Sybilia, that a Vir∣gin should bring forth a sonne. The arched roofe of the Church is richly guilded, and here Pope Pius the fourth consecrated the spoiles taken from the Turkes in the nauall victory of him and his confederates, the memory whereof is there kept by an inscrip∣tion vpon a pillar. Also the Senate and people of Rome, haue here erected a table to Pope Paul the third, vpon which is written in golden letters, that while he was Cardi∣nall, he erected here many antient monuments digged vp in Rome at his owne charge. On the other side of the Mount Capitoline, (towards the West as I remember) at the very foot of the mountaine, is the Tullian prison, appointed for that vse by the old Kings Ancus Martins and Tullus, in which they say the holy Apostles Peter and Paul were imprisoned; and at this day there is a Church vnder the earth, called Saint Peter In Careere.

The (24) Theater of Marcellus sonne to the sister of Augustus, is neere the Pallace of the Family Sauilla. Not farre thence towards the fish market, was the Porticus of Octa∣uia, sifter to Augustus, but no ruines now remaine thereof. The (25) pallace of the Cardi∣nal Farnese is seated in a plain, being one of the fairest in Rome, which for the dignity of such a City, hath very few stately Pallaces. Here I did see an admirable statua, cut out in one stone, of a Bull treading a woman vnder his feete, with the Images of two bro∣thers standing vpright, and of a hunting dogge, with the figure of a high Rocke. Con∣cerning the Churches which we did see in this daies iourney. The (23) Church of Saint Adrian in the market place called Romanum, or Boiarium. The Church of Saint Peter and Marcellanus (betweene the (20) Theater of Vespasian and the Church (A) S. Giouanni in Laterano, the Church of Saint Matthew, in the way towards (C) Saint Mary Maggiore the Church of Saint Pietro in vincula (vpon (XXVI) Mount Esquiline, (where is a sepulcher of white marble of Pope Iulius the second, adorned with faire statuaes, namely, one of Moyses of the rare worke of Michael Angelo,) the Church of Agata, vpon the same mountaine, the Church of Saint Vito In Macello, the Church of Saint Eusebius (neere the mounment called (9) Trofei di Mario the Church of Saint Prasside, seared neere (C) S. Maria Maggiore whose chappell called Horto del Paradiso, no woman may enter), the Church of Saint Quirico, the Church Saint Susanna vpon (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo, the Church Saint Vitallis: Al these Churches giue the titles of Cardinals. The Church Saint Costanza, is a long mile out of the (VII) gate Pis and was of old dedicated to Bacchus, where is a most faire sepulcher and large, of porphry, ten ordinary spannes deepe, and fifteene long, curiously engrauen with boyes quaf∣fing, and bearing cups of wine, as in a Feast of Bacchus, which some thinke to be the se∣pulcher of Constantia a Virgine, daughter to Constantine, but the engrauing like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient, and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans, and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus. This Church is of a round forme and little, but very faire, and borne vp with twelue rowes of marble pillars, set in a round com∣passe. Neere this lies the Church of Saint Agnese, hauing doores of brasse, where the Lambes are kept, whereof the Pals of Arch-bishops are made, which the Pope so dear∣ly sels.

At my first comming to Rome I lodged in a publike Inne, and paid three giulij each meale, then as I haue written, I hasted my iourney to Naples, and after returning to Rome, I hired a chamber by the day, and bought my owne meat, but my haste to be gone, made me not to note my particular expences. Onely I remember that they who sold any thing in the market, vsed to look into the hands of the buyers to see whether they brought siluer or brasse coyne, and thereafter made their price; whereupon many shewed siluer, till they had bought, and then paid in copper, which the people durst

not refuse. And from hence it was, that in a solemne pompe, when the people fell on their knees before the Pope, and I thought they onely expected his blessing, they all cried out; Holy Father command that we may haue white bread, and that the Gen∣tlemen may be forced to take our brasse quatrines: so as it seemes they refused to re∣ceiue them. I scarce bought my meat one or two daies in Rome: For after I had beene with Cardinall Allen, I formerly said, that to shun the company of his Englishmen, I changed my lodging, and my selfe and two Dutch Gentlemen my consorts, tooke a chamber in a victualling house, close vnder the Popes Pallace; and each of vs paid for our bed each night one or two baocci, and bought our meat in that house, agree∣ing for the price before we did eat it, and so being ready vpon all euents of danger, and hauing no carriage to trouble vs, we hoped if need were to escape; yet still I rested much vpon the Cardinals promise, and being free from Englishmens company, and hauing two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts, both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine, where they professe the same religion as in England, I did with more security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the view of Rome.

After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber, where it fals into the sea, I went out of the gate of Saint Paul, and hauing the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand, passed twelue miles to Ostia, through fruitfull hils of corne, and a vast wood at my iournies end. Here is a strong Castle seated in Latium, and belonging to the Popes of Rome, which Pope Martin the fifth built, and Pope Iulius the second did more strongly forti∣fie, but nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City, but some poore houses. Strabo writes, that King Ancus Martius first built this City, in a soile to which the Riuer brought much dirt. It is certaine that of old the ships did cast Anchor without the Ha∣uen of the City, and sent their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne vp by a rope, the Hauen being not so deepe to beare them. The Citizens were free from Tri∣bute, to make them dwell there, the aire being then (as also at this time) very vnwhol∣some. Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a Lake, and the waters runne in little chan∣nels vnder the paued high waies. The Hauen of Traian is a mile and a halfe from the Towne, being broad enough, but so barred with sand and like matter, as no ships can come to it; and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from Naples and neere places to Rome, and that very seldome. The foresaid Hauen was first built by Claudius, then re∣paired by Traian, and called of his name, of which Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius; He made the Hauen of Hostia, drawing an arme on the right and left side, and making a barre at the entery, where it was deepe, which barre, that he might make more stable, by Art, he sunke the ship wherein the great Obeliske was brought from AEgypt, and vpon piles heaped vp, placed a most high Tower, like to the Pharo of Alex∣andria, out of which light was hung out by night, to direct the ships, &c.

When Traian repaired this Hauen, the Citie Portuensis was built on the other side of Tyber, towards the South-East, in the soile of Toscany, the Bishop whereof is one of the seuen Cardinals assistant to the Pope. The branch of Tyber falling from Hostia and diuiding it selfe, maketh an Iland compassed with the sea, on the other side, in which are many ruines of stately houses and great stones of Marble. This Hauen see∣ming of no vse, and barred vp for the securitie of Rome from any Nauall siege, the onely Port that Rome hath, is called Citta'vecchia, seated vpon the shoare of Tuscany betweene the foresaid Hostia and Ligorno, the chiefe Hauen of the Duke of Florence. In this ha∣uen of Rome, of old called Centum Cellae, and after ruined by the Saracens, and after built againe, the Popes of Rome (possessing many places in the neighbour soile of Toscany) did build a strong Castle, and called it Citta Vecchia. I returned from Ostia to Rome the same day, and paied fiue giulij for my Mule, and two for my dinner.

I had purposed to see the famous Garden of the Cardinall of Ferraria at Tiuoli, (whereof I spake in my iourney to Naples:) but Easter was now at hand, and the Priests came to take our names in our lodging, and when wee demaunded the cause, they told vs, that it was to no other end, but to know if any receiued not the Cummu∣nion at that holy time, which when we heard, wee needed no spurres to make haste from Rome into the state of Florence.

Onely I had an obstinate purpose to see Bellarmine. To which end hauing first hired a horse, and prouided all things necessary for my iourney to Sienna; and hauing sent away my consorts to stay for me, with my horse and boots at an Inne in the Suburbs, that I might more speedily escape, if my purpose succeeded not: I boldly went to the Iesuites Colledge, and Bellermine then walking in the fields, I expected his returne at the gate, the Students telling me that he would presently come backe; which falling out as they said; I followed him into the Colledge (being attired like an Italian, and carefull not to vse any strange gestures; yea, forbearing to view the Colledge, or to looke vpon any man fully, lest I should draw his eyes vpon me). Thus I came into Bellermines chamber, that I might see this man so famous for his learning, and so great a Champion of the Popes: who seemed to me not aboue forty yeeres old, being leane of body, and something low of stature, with a long visage and a little sharpe beard vp∣pon the chin, of a browne colour, and a countenance not very graue, and for his mid∣dle age, wanting the authority of grey heires. Being come into his chamber, and ha∣uing made profession of my great respect to him, I told him that I was a French man, and came to Rome for performance of some religious vowes, and to see the monu∣ments, especially those which were liuing, and among them himselfe most especially, earnestly intreating, to the end I might from his side returne better instructed into my Countrey, that he would admit me at vacant houres to enioy his graue conuersation. He gently answering, and with grauity not so much swallowing the praises I gaue him, as shewing that my company should be most pleasing to him, commanded his Nouice, that he should presently bring me in, when I should come to visit him, and so after some speeches of curtesie; he dismissed me, who meant nothing lesse then to come againe to him.

The very same hower at ten in the morning, vpon the Tuseday before Easter, I came to my consorts in the Suburbes, and presently we tooke horse after a short breakefast. The way from Rome to Sienna is thus vulgarly noted: A Borgetto, sixe miles, a l' Isole, one; a Bacchano, sixe; a Monterose, fiue; a Sutri, foure; a Roneignone, three; a lago di vigo, one; a viterbo, seuen; a Monte fiaschoni, seuen; a Bolsena, seuen; a San' Lorenzo, foure; a Acquapendente, sixe; a Recorseto a la Paglia, twelue; a Scanciericho, foure; a Buon' Conuento, seuen; a Saraualle, foure; a San' Michaele de la Seala, sixe; a Sienna, sixe; In all from Rome to Sienna ninetie sixe miles. I will follow my Italian consorts in describing this iourney, who doe not much differ from this vulgar number of miles, each of vs paid fifteene paoli for his horse from Rome to Scienna, and we had but one Vetturine, who went with vs on foote, for the Italians vse to ride a slow pace, and he was to bring back our horses, and to pay for their meat and for his owne. The first day after break∣fast we rode twentie two miles to Monterose, through fruitfull hilles of Corne, and some wilde barren fields, and Woods at our iournies ende. After wee had rode fiue miles, we came to a monument lying vpon the high way, and called the Sepulcher of Nero, in the place where hee killed himselfe, when the Senate had condemned him. And when we came to the little Towne Bachano, I obserued the mountaines to com∣passe it in the forme of a Theater with a Lake in the middest, like the mountaine Astru∣mo neere Naples. Out of this Lake comes a Brooke called Cremera, vpon the banke whereof three hundred Fabij with fiue thousand of their followers, of old were kil∣led in one day. Bacchano of old called Campagnano, hath the name of Bacchus. And it giues the name to the Territory, and to the Wood neere it, which is infamous for robe∣ries. Monterose is subiect to Pope Clement the eighth (then liuing) his Nephew (so they call their bastards;) and though it be seated within the old confines of Hetruria, yet now it is vnder the Popes dominion. Here we supped at an Ordinarie (vulgarly Al pasto) and each man paied foure giulij, and all the company complaining that so much was demaunded for our supper, the Hoste so thundred among vs like the bragging souldier, as he soone made both strangers and Italians glad to be quiet. The second day in the morning we rode eight miles to Lago diVigo, where we broke our fast, vpon reckoning (vulgarly al conto) and each man paied eight baocchi. After breakfast wee rode foureteene miles to a little Citie Monte fiaschoni, hauing passed by the way the Ci∣tie

Viterbo, where Pope Caelestine the third placed a Bishop, and made it a Citie. Of old it was gouerned by Princes borne in the Towne, till vpon ciuill dissention betweene the Family of Gatti (aided by the Roman Family Colonna) and the Family Magancesi (aided by the Roman Family Orsini), the Pope brought the Citie into his subiection, about the yeere 1446. A most high Mountaine lies neere Viterbo, bearing Chesnuts, and a great Wood of Oaks, infamous for robberies, where we did see many quarters of theeues hanging vpon the trees. The way to Viterbo was through a fruitfull Plaine of corne, and beyond this Mountaine were store of Oliue trees & Vines. Viterbo was of old called Faliscum, and it hath 3 Cities within the wals: but we passing suddenly through it, I obserued nothing markeable but a faire Fountaine in the Market-place. The way from thence was through a fruitfull Plaine of Corne to the said little Citie Montefias∣choni, seated vpon a high Hill, at the foote whereof begins the Lake of Bolsena, and it is subiect to the Pope, hauing no singular thing in it, but the white and red Muskedine, one of the most famous Wines in Italy. Here we three Consorts had two beds for ten baochi, and we supped vpon reckoning, and each man paied two giulij. The third day in the morning we rode eight miles by the Lake Bolsena, through a Plaine of Corne hauing woody Hilles of Oakes, not farre distant, with store of Chessenut and Oliue trees. In this Lake there is an Iland, which the Queene Amalasuenta, famous for her wisdome, was killed by the commaund of the King of the Ostrogothes. And in the Ca∣stle of Balsena they shew a piece of bread consecrated for the Lords Supper, which be∣ing in the hand of a Priest not beleeuing that it was the very body of Christ, did shed bloud, (as they say, who haue many such lying Miracles). Then we rode sixe miles to the Castle Acquapendente, through a plaine of Corne, where each man paied one giulio for his dinner vpon reckoning. After dinner we rode through wilde Mountaines bea∣ring little Corne, twelue miles to the Brooke Paglia, running vnder the Castle Redicofa∣ni, and diuiding the States of the Pope, and the Duke of Florence, and we rode further in the State of Florence foure miles to a Country Inne, (as I thinke called Scancicricho) where each man paied three poali and a half for his supper at an Ordinarie (vulgarly Al pasto), hauing almost nothing but red Herrings and Sallets to supper. The fourth day in the morning, vpon the last day of Aprill after the new stile, in the yeere 1594, wee * 1.86 rode thirteene miles to a Countrey Inne, through high Hilles of Corne, and for the greater part very firtile, where each man paied seuen baochi for his breakefast.

The same day we rode eighteene miles to Sienna, through most pleasant Hilles, and a firtile Plaine of Corne, with store of Vines on each side, and many Pallaces of Gen∣tlemen, (so they call their houses, built of Free-stone, with a low roofe, and small mag∣nificence), and most frequent dwellings of husbandmen. We came to Sienna the Friday before Easter day, and in a publike Inne each man paied three reali for his Sup∣per.

The next day I went to Fiorenza for money, and rode through Woods and fruitful Hils to the Castle Poggio (walled townes being called Castles) and after through stony Mountaines bearing Corne and Oliues, till I came to the Village Tauernelle, being se∣uenteene miles from Sienna, where I paied two reali for my dinner vpon reckoning. After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Fiorenza, through stony little Mountaines, bearing great store of Oliues, Almonds, and Chessenuts, and many Poplar trees, and towards our iourneyes end, store of Cedar trees; and wee passed by innumerable Pallaces of Gentlemen, and a most faire Monastery called la Certosa, and a desert Rocke, vpon the top whereof an Heremite dwelt all alone. This Territorie yeeldes great store of Pine∣trees, the boughes whereof are thicke and round at the top, but the rest of the tree hath neither boughes nor leaues, and it yeelds a very great Nut, with very many kernels in one shell, which are pleasant in taste, and much vsed here in Banquets. By the way I did meete a Dutch Lady, with her Gentlewomen, and men-seruants all in the habit of Franciscan Friers, and not onely going on foote, but also bare-footed, through these stonie waies; and because they were all (aswell men as women) in Friers weeds, though I looked on them with some suspicion, yet I knew not their sexe or qualitie, till vpon inquirie at Florence, I vnderstood that the Dutchesse of Fiorenza (or Florente) hearing 〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

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that some women were passed by in Friers apparrell, and thinking they were Nunnes stolne out of their Cloisters, did cause them to bee brought backe vnto her, and so vn∣derstood that vpon pennance imposed on them by their Confessour for the satisfacti∣on of their sinnes, they were enioyned to goe in that Friers habit bare-footed to Rome; whereupon she dismissed them with honour.

I forgot to note what I paid for my horse from Sienna to Florence, whether we came vpon Easter day, and there I lodged in the Dutch Inne, and paid three reali each meale. But I did not at this time view the Citie, deferring it till my returne.

The next morning I tooke my iourney to Pisa, that by often remouing, I might shun all question of my religion, into which they vse more strictly to inquire at this time of the yeere, when they vse to obserue who receiues not the Sacrament: for how∣soeuer there be lesse danger of the Inquisition in this State, yet the Duke vsing not, and scarce being able to protect those that rashly giue open offence, I thought good thus warily to auoide these snares. I went this iourney on foot, meaning leisurely to see the next Cities, so little distant one from the other, as they were pleasant iourneys on foot, especially in so pleasant a Countrie. The first day in the morning I walked ten miles to the Castle Prato, through the pleasant Valley of the Riuer Arno. This pleasant Ca∣stle (or walled Towne) is of a round forme, hauing (at the very enterance) a large Mar∣ket place, wherein stands a faire Cathedrall Church, adorned with many stones of mar∣ble: and here I paied twelue creitzers for my dinner.

In the afternoone I walked ten Italian short miles to the City Pistoia, through a most pleasant plaine called the Valley of Arno, tilled after the manner of Lombardy, bearing * 1.87 Corne and Wine in the same field, all the Furrowes being planted with Elmes, vpon which the Vines grow. This Citie is seated in a Plaine, and compassed with Moun∣taines, which on other sides are somewhat distant, but on the North-side hang ouer the same, and here (as likewise at Prato and Florence) the streetes are paued with broad free stone, most casie to walke vpon. And the Cathedrall Church is stately built, and the pauement is of Marble curiously wrought, like the Church of Sienna. The Citie hath the name (in the Latin tongue, as also in the Italian) of a plague which inuaded the Citie, when the Troopes of the Rebell Catilina being ouercome, fled thither, whose po∣steritie being seated there, hath nourished a greater plague by perpetual factions, shew∣ing thereby of what race they came. Desiderius King of Lombardy compassed the Ci∣tie with a wall. After the Florentines about the yeere 1150 subdued this chiefe Citie of Hetruria, vnder whose gouernement, first the faction of the Neri and the Bianehi brake out, and defiled the Citie with murthers, which being extinct, the faction of the Cancellieri and the Panzaditi began, which lasted almost to our time, with incredible hatred and murther. But of late times, the Duke of Florence published an Edict, that vpon great penaltie, no man should weare any Roses, or other signes of faction, which till that time they did beare vpon the parts of their body, where they might most easily be seene. From hence I walked three miles through little Mountaines to Sarauale, and two miles to Pouanni, where the Plaine begins to open; and three miles to the Brooke Pescha, where I paied a Creitzer for my passage by boate, and fiue miles to Borgo nuouo, through Mountaines full of Chess-nuts and other nut trees, and eight miles in the ter∣ritorie of Lucca, through a large plaine, to a solitarie Inne, called La Moretta. By the way I paid (vpon reckoning) on reale and a halfe for my breakefast, and in this Inne I lodged, and paied (at an ordinarie) three reali for my Supper.

The next morning I walked one mile to Lucca; the Emperour Charles the fourth * 1.88 made this Citie free, which hath kept the Libertie to this day, gouerned by Senators, but liues in parpetuall feare of practises against this libertie from the great Duke of Florence. It is seated in a plaine, and strongly fortified, and compassed with Mountaines on all sides, but somewhat distant, and onely lies open on the side towards Pistoia, be∣ing two miles in compasse, and hauing about thirtie foure thousand Inhabitants. The strectes are narrow, and paued with broad free stone, most easie to walke vpon. The Pallaces of the chiefe Gentlemen are built of free stone, with a low roofe after the Itali∣an fashion, and they haue many pleasant Gardens within the walles. In the corner to∣wards

North-west by North is a strong castle, neere which lies the Cathedrall Church, stately paued with Marble, but very darke, as most of the Papists Churches are built, ei∣ther because they think darkenesse increaseth Religion, or to make it an excuse for their burning candles in the day. There also lies the Senate house; and al the Innes are in one street, that they may more easily look into strangers, for any practise against their liber∣ty; for which cause no man may weare any weapons in the city, nor so much as a knife, except the point be blunt These Citizens first spread through Italy the Art of making silke, and weauing it into clothes, and by this traficke they haue very rich families Here I paid (at an Ordinaric) o reali for my dinner and supper. From Lucca I walked, miles through a pleasant Plaine, to the Mountaine of Pisa, which diuides the Territories of those two Cities, and it is very high & stoney, yet is full of Rosemary, Time, and sweet smelling hearbs, & the passage of it is 2 miles long. After I went 3 miles through fenny ground, often ouerflowed with the Riuer Arno, and came to Pisa. Arno is a little Riuer * 1.89 talling from the Apenine Mountaines neere Florence, through which City it runs, and so passeth through a most pleasant and fruitful Plaine to Pisa, through which Citie it also runs; and by reason of the narrow bed, and the neere Mountaine of Pisa, is subiect to o∣uerflow vpon any great raine, so as with great hurt it drowneth the fields of Pisa, and those that lie frō thence to the Sea. Pisa of old famous for nauigation, was made free by the Emperor Charles the fourth, about the yeere 1369. But long after it was the second time sold to the Florentines by Galeacius Vicount of Millan. Then they practised with the French to recouer their liberty, when Charles the eight passed that way to conquer Naples, til they were the third time subdued by the Florentines; since which time the fa∣mily of Medici inuaded the liberty of Florence, together with that of Pisa, vnder the title of Great Duke of Florence, which they hold to this day. But whē Pisa was thus brought in subiection to Florence, many of the chiefe Citizens chose rather to liue at Venice, and other places, in perpetual banishment with their posterity, then to be subiect to the Flo∣rentines Pisa was of old called Alpheo, of the builders comming from their dwellings neere 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a Riuer in Greece. The brook Arno runs from the Last to the west through Pisa, seated in a Plaine, and towards the North-West by North is a Gate, and a most faire Cathedral Church, paued with Marble curiously wrought, & hauing a most faire pulpit In which Church, neere the high Alter, is the Sepulcher of the Emperor Henrie the seuenth, whom Plutina and many German Writers affirme, to haue been poisoned by a wicked Monk of the Order of the Predicants, at the Communion of our blessed Lords Supper. Vpon this monument these words are written in Latin.

In this 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉 to be dispised, are contained the bones of Henry the seuenth, Count of Lu∣ceburg, and after the seuenth Emperour of that name, which the second yeere after his death, namely 1319. the twentyfiue day of the Sextiles, &c. were brought to Pisa, and with great honour of funer all laid in this Church, where they remaine to this day.

The steeple is neere the Church but feuered from it, which seemes to threaten the sal∣ling from the top to the bottome, but that is done by the great Art of the workemen, deceiuing the eye; for it is as strongly built as the Church. I ascended the same by two hundred and forty staires of marble, in which ascent it hath seuen galleries on the out side. Not farre then to is a yard vsed for common buriall, called the holy field, vulgar∣ly Campo Santo. In which the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa, returning from Hic usa∣lem, did lay great stone of that earth, which he had vsed for ballast of his ships; and they say that dead bodies laid there, doe-consume in a most short time. This yard is com∣passed with a building all of Marble, which lies open like a Cloyster, (we call it a terras) and the same is couered with lead very sumptiously, hauing in bredth 56 pillars, and in length 189. each distant from the other thirteene walking paces. So as (in my opinion) this yard for buriall is much more stately, then that most faire yard for the same pur∣pose, which I formerly discribed at Leipzig in Germany, called in Dutch Got saker. In this place is a sepulcher stately built of marble of diuers colors, with this inscriptioin Latin; Pope Gregory the thirteenth, borne at Bologna, commanded this to be made, so the most 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Lawyer Iohn Buon' Compagno, his brother by the Fathers side, deceased in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the yeere 1544 at Pisa, where he was chiefe Professour of that Law.

Here I did see another sepulcher with this inscription in Latin; To Mathew Curtius Physitian. Duke Cosmo made this at his owne charge, in the yeere 1544.

At the West corner of the City, is the Armory, vulgarly called L Arsenalo, where they build and keepe the Dukes Gallies, which were there at this time no more then seuen in number; for the Duke vsed to send out in summer time some two or three Gallies, (and seldome any more) to spoile the Turkes, which he might doe more bold∣ly, because the Florentines haue no cause to feare the Turkes, since they vse no traffick by sea, but send out their silkes and other commodities by strange ships, and onely take care to entertaine those Merchants well, who bring them corne and victuals by sea. At the same West corner of the City, is a bridge of bricke ouer the Riuer Arno, built high in the midst, with three Arches, vnder which the boates passe. And towards the East there be three other like bridges. Neere the first bridge is another gate of the City, leading towards the sea, and neere the same, is the most sweete walke, that euer I beheld. It hath in bredth some fiue rowes of trees, on each side, and a like distance of greene grasse betweene those trees, but it reacheth in length many miles; and out of the Riuer Arno are drawne two ditches, which runne all the length of it, one vpon each side: so as the Citizens in summer time, vse to take boat in Arno, at their doores, with a a basket of victuals; and so many Families of them, passing by the ditches on both sides the walke, sit downe a good distance the one from the other, and there sup and conuerse with great pleasure. On the South side of the City a strong Fort lies neere the wall, and there is the third gate of the City. In the midst of the City vpon the banke of Arno, is the Pallace of the Duke of Florence, and there is a statua erected to Ferdinando the Duke then liuing, who much fauoured this City, in which he was borne. Not farre thence is a little, but most faire Chappell, all of marble, built in the forme of a Thorne, vulgarly called La Capella lesu di Spina. The pleasant seat of the City, the curtesie of the Citizens, and my desire to conuerse with the Professors of the Vniuersity, made me spend some daies in this City, where I paid by the day for my chamber and bed three creitzers, and my Host was tied to buy and dresse such meat for me as I desired, wherein I spent some three Giulij by the day, and if I had purpo∣sed to stay long, I might haue liued well at a more easie rate.

CHAP. III. Of my iourney to Ligorno, my returne to Florence, and to Sienna, and the description of these Cities. Of my iourney by Land to Lirigi, (in which againe I passed by Lucca and Pisa,) and by sea to Genea, with the description of that City, and my iourney by Land to Pania, to Mi∣lano, to Cremona, and to Mantous, with the discription of the Cities, and of my returne to Padena.

I Hired a horse for three Giulij from Pisa to Ligorna, an Ha∣uen of this state, which Ftolomy of old called Liburuum, (of which name there is another Hauen betweene Istria and Dalmatia), and Cicero called Labro. Not farre from Pisa I passed by boat the brooke Serpe, running from Lucca; and paid two creitzers for passing my horse, and one for my selfe. Then for three miles I rode vpon a paued way, and thirteene miles more through a plaine of pasture, full of many woods and Lakes, which lakes and fenny grounds, lying neere Pisa, make the aire vnwholsome some möneths of the yeere, and the Citi∣zens much subiect to sickenes.

So after sixteene miles riding, I came to Ligorno, which was of old fortified by the Pisans, and those fortifications were demolished by the Genoest, in the yeere 1297. but peace being made betweene them, this place returned vnder the command of the Pi∣sans, and they being after subdued by the Florentines, this place came also into their

hands; and when the French King Charles the eight, in the yeere 1494. restored the Pi∣sans to liberty, this place followed their fortune; till the Pisans againe being subdued by the Florentines in the yeere 1509. this place also returned to their subiection. It is said to haue the name of Ligornus sonne to Phaeton. Cosmo de Medicis, Duke of Florence, began to fortifie againe this ancient Towne, and to measure out the circuit and the streetes thereof. And Duke Francis tooke vpon him to goe forward with this vnperfe∣cted worke; and he being dead, Duke Ferdinand his brother, at that time liuing, brought it to the forme of a most strong Fort, and faire City. And at this time the streetes began to be replenished with houses, for the Duke made this place as it were a sanctuary to offenders, vpon whom he vsed to impose for punishment, either to dwell there for euer, or at least for some yeeres, and to adde one or more houses to the buil∣ding: so as the City was now faire and populous, but it was filled with Citizens guilty of crimes, and of no ciuill conuersation. My selfe hearing that they were such men, perhaps out of preiudicate opinion, did thinke their lookes barbarous, which made me looke more warily to my selfe, and to those things I had with me. The City is sea∣ted in a plaine, somewhat longer from the North to the South, then it is broad from the East to the West; and the sea lies vpon it, partly on the North, and partly on the South, and altogether on the West side. And it hath one Tower on the North side, and another one the South side, reaching into the sea, out of which they hang lights by night to direct saylers: and betweene these Towers, full on the West side, there is a Ha∣uen for great ships further out into the sea, and also neere the City and compassed with the wals thereof, are two Hauens for Gallies and small Barkes. The Riuer Arno running from the East to the West, passeth by the City on the North side, and there fals into the sea; and at the corner on the North side is a strong Fort. Here I paid (vpon reckoning) two giulij for my supper, and as much next day for my dinner, and retur∣ning to Pisa by water, I paid seuen creitzers for my passage.

Two weekes being thus spent, I thought good to returne to Florence, that I might receiue my money, which I had not receiued before, because for feare of the inquisi∣tion, I onely staied there Easter day in the Dutch Inne. Therefore hiring a horse for foure giulij, I rode forty miles to Florence, through the pleasant valley of Arno, partly tilled after the manner of Lombardy, where the same field yeelds corne, wine, & wood, partly diuided into sweet pastures. By the way it hapened that I brake a bough of a mulbery tree, to shade me from the sunne, and falling into the company of an honest Gentleman, he told me I seemed a stranger, because I carried that bough, since those trees planted in the high waies, belonged to the Duke, who preserued them for silke∣wormes, and had imposed a great penalty vpon any that should breake a bough there∣of; so: as if I passed with this bough through any village, I should be sure to be taken & kept prisoner, till I should pay a great fine: whereupon I presently cast away this bough, with many thankes to him for his gentle warning.

How Florence came to be subiect to the House of Medici, with the title of Great Duke, I must hereafter shew in the discourse of the Florentine Common-wealth. At * 1.90 this time I will set downe (as briefly as I can) the discription of the City, and fields ad∣ioining It is a most sweet City, and abounding with wealth, the Citizens are much commended for their curtesie, modesty, grauity, purity of language, and many vir∣tues. The City is innobled with the Dukes Court, and with stately Pallaces, built within and without the wals, and for the stately buildings & sweet situation, it is wor∣thily called Florence the beautifull, vulgarly Fiorenza la bella. It is said to haue had the name Florentia in Latin, either of the Fluentini, (a neighbour people of whom they come) or of the perpetuall happines into which it grew like a flower, or of the Citizens wealth, and the Cities beauty flourishing like a flower. The pauement of the City is not of flint (as at Rome) nor of bricke (as at Sienna) but of very broad and faire free stone. The houses after the manner of Italy; are built with a low roofe, excepting the Pallaces, which are stately built of free stone engrauen. The windowes (as in all the Ci∣ties of Italy (excepting Venice alone) are not glased, but either lie altogether open, to take aire, or are couered with oyled paper and linnen cloth. The streetes are most broad, and haue an open aire. In discribing the Citie, I will begin without the walles,

And first towards the North and East, it is compassed with pleasant Hills, planted with excellent fruit trees, and lying in the forme of an Amphitheater, and behind them the high Mountaines of the Apenine, somewhat remoued, are instead of strong walles to the Citie. Also on the South side, it hath like Hilles, and distant Mountaines, but to∣wards the West it lies open to the most pleasant Valy of Arno, which Valy continueth as farre as Pisa, and to the sea-side. On all sides without the walles, Pallaces of Gen∣tlemen are most frequent, and houses of Citizens, not distant aboue three or foure clo∣ses one from the other, whereupon the Emperour Charles the fifth beholding the Citie and the Countrey from a high steeple, affirmed, that Florence was the greatest Citie in the whole world; and when hee perceiued that the standers by 〈◊〉〈◊〉 doubtfull of his meaning, he added, that in good earnest he reputed all the Pallaces without the walles, compassed with Hilles and Mountaines as with walles, to bee within the circuit of the Citie. It is seated (as it were) in the Center of Italy, betweene the aire of Arezzo, produ∣cing quick wits (where Peter Aretine the Poet was borne, of a sharp wit, though hee a∣bused it wantonly), and the aire of Pisa lesse pure, and yeelding men of strong memory, so as it hath had by this temperature of aire, many Citizens as well sharpe to learne sci∣ences, as strong to retaine them. The Riuer Arno running from East to West diuides the Citie, but into vnequall parts, the farre greater part lying on the North-side, and the lesse on the South-side; and the bridge to passe from one to the other, is almost in the very middest of the City, which is fairely built, yet is more magnified by strangers then it deserues. It hath little houses vpon it, where with it is couered, and vpon each side are Gold-smithes shops, which make small or no shew at ordinarie times: but when the Duke Ferdinando brought his Dutchesse (the Daughter of the Duke of Loraine) to the Citie, at her enterance, those shops were furnished with vessels of sil∣uer, and many rich Iewels, yet borowed of the Citizens to that purpose. And how∣soeuer some strangers may wonder at it, yet they who compare that bridge with the bridge of London, or those Gold-smiths shops with the daily shew of the Gold-smiths in Cheape-side, shall finde no cause to wonder thereat. The bridge hath two hundred twentie eight walking paces in length, and is built vpon seuen Arches. There bee three other bridges ouer Arno, but farre lesse in bignesse and magnificence then the former; for the Riuer is shallow, scarce couering the sand or stones, though beyond the Citie it be increased with other waters, and is subiect to ouer-flowing vpon any great raine. The Citie is of a round forme, and vpon the walles thereof lie eight Fortes, whereof the greatest and strongest lies towards the South. And the farre greater part of the Ci∣tie on the North side of the Riuer, lies in a Plaine, but in the lesse part on the South side of the Riuer, the houses towards the North-East are built vpon the sides of Moun∣taines, and the dwellings are more scattered, hauing many and large Gardens; and in that part there is a place vulgarly called le Ruinate, that is, the ruinous, because the hou∣ses haue been often ruined by Earthquakes, and there you shall find this inscription in Latin: Duke Cosmo in the yeere 1533 forbad the houses of this Mountaine to be rebuilt, which thrice fell by the fault of the soyle. Neere that place lies a lane vnpaued, in memory of a Vir∣gin that dwelt there, whom a yong man loued, who was borne of a Family of a contra∣rie faction to hers, betweene whom many cruelties had been exercised, and they mutu∣ally louing each other, & despairing to get their friends consent for mariage, and at last being impatient of delay, resolued with what danger soeuer to meet together. But it hap∣pened, that the yong man being to ascend into the Virgins Chamber by a ladder, was surprised, who to saue the reputation of the Virgin, confessed, that he came to rob the house, whereupon he was condemned to die, and being led to execution by the house where the Virgin dwelt, she laying aside all shame, came running out, with her loose haire about her eares, and embracing him, confessed the truth publikly, with which ac∣cident both their parents were so moued, as laying aside all former malice, they contra∣cted affinity, and the young man deliuered from the bonds of the hangman, was tied to her in the sweet bond of marriage. And of this wonderfull euent, the Florentines thought good to keepe this memorie for posteritie. The Duke hath two Pallaces with∣in the City, whereof one is called Pallazzo di Pitti, seated in this part of the City, which a Gentleman of Florence by name Lucca della Casa de Pitti, began to build but falling in∣to

pouerty and not able to finish it, was forced to sel the same to Cosmo de Medicis, being Great Duke of Florence, and shortly after conuicted of treason, was beheaded. This is the most stately Pallace in the Citie, in the Garden whereof, called Belueder, are many most sweete shades among pleasant Groues, together with a pleasant Caue and Foun∣taine. They say, that one Mule did bring all the matter to this building, in memorie whereof, these verses are written vpon the picture of the said Mule:

Lecticam, lapides, & marmora, ligna, Columnas Vexit, conduxit, traxit, & ista tulit. The Litter, these stones, marbles, pillers, wood, Did carry, leade, draw, beare, this Mule so good.

The outward side of the Pallace is of Free-stone engrauen, and the Ornaments with∣in are Regall. Betweene the two Chambers, wherein the Duke and the Dutchesse lie apart, is a very faire Gallery, and in the chamber of the Dutchesse, is a second bed most like her owne for the Duke when he pleaseth to lie there, and there is a Table wrought with siluer and pretious stones, valued at 3000 Crownes. In the dining roome are ma∣ny faire statuaes, and the figure of thirty Cardinals chosen at one time by Pope Leo the tenth, being of the house of Medici. In the very Court are two great loadstones. The strong Fort called Saint Meniato, lies ouer this Pallace, and indeede ouer all the Ci∣tie, which was built by Alexander de Medicis, nephew to Pope Clement the seuenth, and had lately been kept by a Garison of two thousand Spaniards, as likewise another Fort on the other side of Arno, built in the time of the free State, was likewise kept by a Gari∣son of 100 Spaniards: For the Dukes of Medici aduanced to their Dukedome by the Emperor Charles the fifth, did at first admit these Garisons of Spaniards vnder an Itali∣an Captaine, either to shew their confidence in Spaine, or to fortifie themselues against the Citizens, whose libertie they had inuaded; but Duke Ferdinand then liuing (the Fa∣milies of Citizens being now extinct or suppressed, who had liued in the free state, and could not indure subiection) being now confirmed in his Dukedome, had lately ef∣fected, that these Spaniards should yeeld the Fortes to him, and depart the Countrey. Vpon the North-side of the Riuer Arno, and vpon the banke thereof, is a monument of a horse buried in the high way, with this inscription in Latin: The bones of the horse of Charles Capelli Venetian Ambassador, when the Citie was besieged in the yeere 1533. And these verses were added:

Non ingratus herus, Sonopes memorande, sepulchrum Hoc tibi, promeritis haec monumenta dedit. Praise worthy horse of warre thy thankfull Lord Thee for thy merits doth this Tombe afford.

The Citie hath diuers Market-places, 1. Mercato Vecchio; 2. S. Spirito; 3. Santa Croce; 4. S. Maria Nouella, 5. Plazza della Signoria, which is the fairest and largest of all the rest, and therein is the Senators Pallace, and many stately statuas, one of a virgin taken by force, and of the rauisher beating her keeper, & treading him vnder his feet; another of Hercu∣les, treading Cacus vnder his feet (for the Florentines beare Hercules in their great Seale); the third of Dauid, all which are of white Marble; the fourth of Perseus, carrying in one hand the head of Medusa vpon his Shield, and treading the bulk of her body vnder his feet, curiously wrought in brasse. In the same Market-place is a most faire Fountaine set round about with faire statuaes of brasse, and in the midst thereof, the statuaes of a Giant, and of three horses, almost couered with water, all wrought in white marble, do power the waters out of their mouthes into the Cesterne. In the corner of this market place is the Senators Pallace, so called, because the Senate was wont to meete there in time of the free State, but now it is the Dukes pallace, & the second that he hath within the Citie. Therein I saw a Cat of the Mountaine, not vnlike to a dog, with the head of a black colour, and the back like an hedghog, a light touch wherof gaue a very sweet sent to my gloues. Here they shewed vs (as they vse to shew to curious strangers) the Dukes Treasure (as they cal it) namely, vessels of gold and siluer, Roses hallowed by the Pope (which these Princes hold for rich presents); many chambers and galleries, hauing a sweet prospect vpon the Arno, and adorned with pictures and statuaes, notable for the

matter, art, and price; a most faire looking glasse; a Theater for Comedies; one table of Porphery valued at fiue hundred Crownes; another of Iasper stone, valued at foure hundred Crownes, a table then in the workmans hands vnperfected, the Iewels wher∣of they valued at fiftie thousand Crownes, and the workmanship at twelue thousand Crownes. Moreouer, they shewed vs the pictures of the Popes of the house of Me∣dici; rich swords and hats, and a lather of siluer to mount into the Coach; and many notable antiquities; and certaine birds of India, with many other beautifull things, which they vse to shew to curious strangers, and for the same expect some reward of them in curtesie. Among other things, I wondered to see there the picture of Flizabeth our famous Queene: but the Duke of Florence much esteemed her picture, for the ad∣miration of her vertues, how soeuer the malitious Papists had long endeuoured to ob∣scure her fame, especially in those remote parts, whose slaunders God turned to her greater glory. Here they did shew vs the great Dukes study, called Il studiol' del gran Duca, in which wee did see most faire pictures; two chests of Christall guilded ouer; diuers statuaes, not of brasse, but of mixt mettals, shining here like siluer, there like gold; a cup of Amber, a little Mountaine of pearles, wrought together by the hands of Duke Francis; a Pyramis of Pearles as they grow in oyster-shels; two kniues set with Iewels, and a third Indian knife; a naile halfe turned into gold by Torneser an Alchumist, the other part still remaining Iron; a piece of gold vnpolished, as it was digged out of the Mines; two pictures of Flemings, whereof one was valued at fiue hundred, the other at eight hundred Crownes; a clock of Amber; a piece of Amber falling vpon a Lizard, and retaining the liuely forme thereof; a stone called Vergoara that cureth poyson; the head of a Turke all of pure gold; a most beautifull head of a Turkish woman; a Table of gold, and of Iasper stone, and other Iewells, among which one Emerald of a perfect greene colour, was highly valued, being round, and almost as big as an egge, for they that kept it, reputed it worth one hundred thousand Crownes.

Not farre thence is a Pallace of the noble Family of Strozzi, and another of Alxe∣ander great Duke of Florence, wherein is a ruined chamber, in which certaine conspi∣rator, killed him. In the stately Church of S. Maria del 〈◊〉〈◊〉, are many most faire statuaes, and the pauement and outward parts of the walles, aswell of the Church, as of the steeple, are of carued Marble. And here are kept three triple Crownes of three Popes of the Family of Medici. The tower or steeple is very high, & in the ascent are 3 galleries round about the outside, and it is all stately built of Marble, hauing foure hun∣dred fortie and nine staires to the first gallerie. In which being most faire, and all of Marble, the Emperor Charles the fifth supped, when hee came to Florence. And from this gallery to the second are fifty nine staires, and from thence to the third sixty eight staires, where at the very top is a wonderfull hollow Globe of Brasse, wherein 30 men may stand together, and vpright; for it is higher then any man, and is vulgarly called la Cupula. Another most ancient Church lieth close to this, which was of old dedicated to Mars, and now is dedicated to S. Iohn Baptist, and it is of around forme, and hath a most stately Font, with the dores of mixt mettall, much richer then Brasse, and cutiously carued, the like whereof, they say, the World yeeldeth not. And therein are to be seene the monument of Pope Iohn the twenty three, deposed at the Councell of Constantia, who before his Popedome was named Balthassar Cossa: the Statua of the same Pope of mixt mettall; and diuers other statuaes of the same mettall shining like gold. To conclude, in this little, but most faire Church, are kept the monuments of the Pisanes subdued, namely, a Pillar, a Basket, and a chaine, and other notable things. Not farre thence is the faire Church, called S. Maria Nouella, vpon the wall whereof this verse is written;

Sacrum pingue dabo, non macrum sacrificabo, I will giue Fatlings, not leane Sacrifice.

Which verse they obserue may, by beginning with the words backward, bee a true verse, and of direct contrary sense, in this manner;

Sacrificabo macrum, non dabo pingue Sacrum: Sacrifice leane, not Fatlings giue will I.

But the Monkes will not haue it vnderstood in the last sense, vnprofitable to their profession, but rather in the first, as if men were bound now to giue the Clergy their best goods, as they were of old to giue the fattest sacrifice to God. In the Church called L'Annonciata of the Angels Annuntiation to the Virgin; the wals are round about hung with Images of men, and of mens feet and Armes, some of wood, some of met∣tals, which were offered to our Lady vpon vow, by those that had recouered health of body, or had beene cured of diseases in those parts. And as it cannot be expressed how much the Italians do attribute to the virgin, so there is more concourse to this Church, then to any other. In the Church of Saint Laurence, they keepe many relikes, with vn∣credible reuerence; and shew them to the people to be adored. In a Chappell of this Church are many faire statuaes of Marble, and one most faire erected to Duke Alexan∣der killed by treason, by which he is made sitting with a sad countenance, his right hand laid to his mouth, and his left hand resting vpon his knee. And there be two sta∣tuaes of Giuliano Angelo, and Michaele Angelo, two famous Painters and Engrauers. In another Chappell are low monuments erected to Duke Cosmo of Medici, and to Laurence his sonne, who built this Church; and to the Dutchesse of Cosmo, and to Duke Francis, and to his lawfull sonne deceased (for he had a base sonne yet liuing af∣ter his brother Ferdinando had succeeded him) and also to Paulus Iouius, the Historian dying in the yeere 1574. (as I remember.) The Monument of Cosmo had this in∣scription in Latin; By publike consent to the Father of his Countrey. In a stately Chappell of this Church is the Library of Pope Clement the seuenth de Medici, ful of rare greeke and latin bookes, but especially they shew the Commentaries of Iulius Caesar, a writ∣ten bible, Maps of Ptolomy drawne with lines of gold, the Hierogliphica (an old man∣ner of writing) of the AEgyptians, and the Pandects in written hand, brought from Pisa subdued. I dare not say that this is the same Library, which was gathered by Lorenzo of Medici, in the yeere 1484. but I am most sure that I did see these bookes in one of them. In this Church & the foresaid Chappell, was also a monument erected to Duke Ferdinando then liuing. Neer that is a garden, in which we did see two Ostrages, & flax of India, making most strong threed, and the hearbe that yeeldeth this flax, much like an Artichoke, but farre greater. In the monastery of Saint Marke, which Duke Cosmo built for Dominican Friars, is a Chappell proper to the Family Saluiati for buriall, which is very rich with diuers coloured marbles, images of brasse, and pictures, espe∣cially one rare picture of a red vale, which seemed two fingers distant from the wall: And in this monastery is another Library of rare Bookes. The Hospitall of S. Maria Noua, is said to passe all others in Italy, for all necessaries to cure and nourish the sicke, and for orderly attendance, whereto that purpose are ninety six beds in one roome. Not farre thence are two stables of the Dukes, and in both of them were some thirty two horses of price.

The Duke kept fierce wilde beasts in a little round house, namely, fiue Lyons, fiue Wolues, three Eagles, three Tygers (of black and gray colour, not vnlike Cats, but much greater) one wilde Cat (like a Tyger) Beares, Leopards (spotted with white, black and red, and vsed sometimes for hunting), an Indian Mouse (with a head like our Mise, but a long hairie taile, so fierce and big, that it would easily kill one of our Cats), and wilde Boares And the Keeper told vs, that the Duke and Dutchesse, with many Gentle∣men, came lately to behold them, (sitting in a gallery built round about the yard) at which time certaine men were put into little frames of wood, running vpon wheeles, to prouoke these beasts to anger; which being let loose in the Court-yard, walked with∣out offending one the other, and to this ende these men had many fire-workes, from which the most fierce of them did runne away, onely the wilde Boare rushed vpon one of these frames wheeling towards him, and not only turned it ouer, but rent out a board with his Tuske, so as all the company were affraid left the man who lay therein should perish.

Vpon the wals of the Church S. Croce, is a monument of Arno ouerflowiug, with this in scription in the Italian tongue: In the yeere 1333. the water of Arno ouerflowed to this height, and in the yeere 1557. to this, yet higher. In this Church is the sepulcher of

Michael Angelo Bonoritio, a most famous Engrauer, Painter, and Bullder, whose bones were brought from Rome, at the instance of Duke Cosmo, in the yeere 1570, and laid here. It is most certaine that he was most skilfull in those Arts; and of him the Italians greatly boast, and with all tell much of his fantasticke humours: namely, that when he painted the Popes Chappell, (whereof I spake in discribing the Popes Pallace) that he first obtained the Popes promise, that no man should come in, till the worke were fi∣nished; and vnderstanding that the Pope had broken this promise, comming in him∣selfe with some Cardinals at the backe doore of the vestery, that he being then to paint the last Iudgement, did so liuely figure the Pope and the Cardinall (that tempted him) amongst the Diuels, as euery man might easily know them. But that is abhominable, which the Romans of the better sort seriously tell of him, that he being to paint a cru∣cifix for the Pope, when he came to expresse the liuely actions of the passion; hired a Porter to be fastned vpon a Crosse, and at that very time stabbed him with a penknife, and while he was dying, made a rare peece of worke for the Art, but infamous for the murther: and that hereupon he was banished Rome, and went to the Court of the Duke of Vrbino, where he was entertained with much honour. And they report also that when he was recalled to Rome with pardon of that fault, the Dutchesse of Vrbino being bold vpon her former acquaintance, should entreat him at his leasure to paint all the Saints for her: and that he to shew that so great a taske should not be imposed vpon a workman of his sort, should satisfie this request, or rather put it off with a rude & vnciuill iest, sending her the picture of a mans priuy part, most artificially painted, and praying her to take in good part the Father of all the Saines, till he could at leasure send their pictures.

In the house of Iohn Bolena a Flemming, and an excellent engrauer, I did see yet vn∣perfected a horse-mans statua of brasse, fifteen els high, the belly of the horse being ca∣pable of 24. men, whereof foure might lie in the throat; and this horse was made as go∣ing in the high way, putting forward the neere foot before, & the farre foot behind, & standing vpon the other two, which statua was to be erected to Duke Cosmo, being va∣lued at 18. thousand crownes. Also another foot statua of white marble, which was to be erected to Duke Ferdinand then liuing. When I had seene these things within the wals, & about the same, I went out to neere places, to view other rarities; and I and my two Dutch consorts, each of vs hired a horse for a giulio & a halfe by the day. Early in the morning we went out by the plaine lying on the west side, & came to Pratoline, the * 1.91 Dukes famous garden, seuen miles from the City, the conduits whereof for water if a man well consider, he may iustly say of the gardens of Italy, as Mounster saith of the Towns of Valesia, that their water costs them more then their wine. This garden is di∣uided into two inclosures, compassed with stone wals. In the vpper inclosure is a sta∣tua of a Giant, with a curled beard, like a Monster, some forty sixe els high, whose great belly will receiue many men at once, and by the same are the Images of many Nimphos, all which cast out water abundantly. Neere the same are many pleasant fish∣ponds, and there is a Caue vnder the earth leading three miles to the Fountaine of wa∣ter, from whence by many pipes the waters are brought to serue the workes of these Gardens. There is a Fountaine which hath the name of a Laberinth close by it. And a Fountaine of Iupiter & Iru distilling water; the Fountaine of the Beare; the Fountaine of AEsculapius; and the Fountaine of Bersia. I call these by the name of Fountaines, vulgarly called Fontana, which are buildings of stone, adorned with many carued Ima∣ges distilling water, and such are placed in most parts of Italy in the marketplaces, open and vncouered: but in this and like Gardens, these Fountaines are wrought within little houses, which house is vulgarly called grotta, that is, Caue (or Den), yet are they not built vnder the earth, but aboue in the manner of a Caue. It remaines I should speak of the lower Garden, which is much more beautiful thē the vpper: for at the first entrance, there is a Pallace of little cōpasse, but stately building, being of a round forme, the midst whereof containeth the great chamber, larger then the other rooms, which round about the same are little, but beautifull, and richly furnished for priuate retreit. From vn∣der all the staires of the Pallace, and the pauements round about, with the turning

of a cocke, spoutes of water rise vp in great force. For in respect of the heat of the Country, they take great pleasure to wet the passengers in this sort. Vnder the Pallace there is a Caue, vulgarly called la grotta Maggiore, (which and like Conduits made as is abouesaid, I will hereafter call fountaines, because they are so vulgarly called.) In the said Caue, a head of marble distilleth water; and two trees by the turning of a cocke shed waters abundantly, and a little globe is turned about by Cupid, where the Images of Duckes dabble in the water, and then looke round about them; and in the middest of a marble table is an instrument, which with great art and force, driueth wa∣ter into any furthest part of the Caue. So many and so diuers are the castings of the water, as the most wary man cannot escape wetting, where they make sport to betray all lookers on in that kind. Neere this, and vnder the Pallace, is a Bath, the wals where∣of shine with glistering stones, and therein is a table of Alablaster. Neere this is a caue strongly built, yet by Art so made, as you would feare to enter it, lest great stones should fall vpon your head: and here by the turning of a pipe, certaine images of Nimphes are carried by the water out of the Caue, and in againe, as if they had life, no water being seene: and in this Caue seeming ruinous, are the most curious Images of many beasts that euer I did see. In the next fountaine, with the turning of a Cocke, the vnseene waters cause a noise like thunder, and presently a great shower of raine fals. But among all the Caues or Fountaines vnder the Pallace, one is most faire and large, at the one end whereof, vpon the turning of a cocke, by the same motion of water vn∣seene, the Image of Fame doth loudly sound a Trumpet, while the image of a Clowne putteth a dish into the water, and taking vp water, presents it to the Image of a Ty∣ger, which dringeth the same vp, and then moues his head, and lookes round about with his eyes, which is as often done as they please, who haue the skill to order the Cocke At the other end of that Caue, is the Image of Syrinx with her fingers halfe turned into reedes; and right against that, is the Image of Pan sitting vpon a stoole, with a wreathed pipe in his hand, and Syrinx beckening to Pan, to play vpon the pipe, Pan puts away his stoole with one hand, then standing on foot, plaies vpon his pipe, and this done, lookes vpon his mistresse, as if he desired thanks or a kisse for his paines: and then takes his stoole againe, and sits downe with a sad countenance. I know not that any place in the World affoords such rare sights in this kind; but lest I should be tedious, it shall suffice onely to name the other Images and Caues. As you goe downe from the Pallace, you shall first see the Caue of AEolus, another of Parnassus, where, with the turning of a cocke, a paire of Organs doth make sweet musicke; and there is a head which together with the eyes in moued to and fro by the vnseene water, and there is a pleasant shade with many statuaes (or Images) curiously carued, and there the Duke doth many times eat. The third fountaine is called Il villano, that is, the Clowne. The fourth la pestaria, that is, the fish-pond, where a Ducke of India hauing foure wings, did swimme in the water. The fifth La lauandara, the Laundresse, where the statua of a woman with the turning of a Cocke, beats a bucke, turning the clothes vp and downe with her hand and the battledor, wherewith shee beateth them in the water. The sixth vulgarly Caccioli, containes vessels to keepe the water cold. The se∣uenth Del Rosso. The eight Grotta Copito, and in this Caue on all sides are marble chaires, whereupon passengers willingly sit after their walking: but assoone as they lightly presse some of the seats, a paile of water fals vpon his head that sits vpon it; be∣sides the pauement is of marble, and therein many stones are so placed, as lightly tou∣ched with a mans foot, they cast vp water into his very face and eies. There be also well wrought Images, of a Serpent biting the finger of a Man, and of a Toade creeping to and fro, and of a Dragons head bowing downe to drinke water, which presently it vomits vp againe. The ninth Il satiro, the Satire. The tenth La mascara, a woman with a vizard. To conclude, there is a large cage of birds, made of wier, and open to the aire, in which are birds of all kindes and many Countries, not onely singing to delight the eare, but of most pleasant and diuers colours, to delight the eye.

Returning from this garden, we rode to the Dukes Pallace, called La Petraia, where at that time he held his Court, (such as I shall in due place relate) and there we did see

Duke Ferdinando, and his Dutchesse, daughter to the Duke of Loraine, and the young Princes and Princesses of the house of Medici walking into the Garden.

Thence we rode in our returne to Florence, to another Pallace of the Dukes, called Il Castello, being two miles distant from Florence: in the Garden whereof wee did see a faire Oke, called la Quercetta, to the top whereof we ascended by staires, and there with the turning of a cock, the water sprung vp on all sides. There is a Fountaine, or a statua of a woman, made of mixt mettall (richer then brasse; called vulgarly di Bronzo,) and this statua shed water from all the haires of the head, and there be seates which cast out water when they are set vpon. Here in another Caue are diuers Images of beasts of Marble, curiously wrought, namely, of Elephants, Camels, Sheepe, Harts, Wolues, and many other beasts, admirable for the engrauers worke. Here our guide slipped into a corner, which was only free from the fall of waters, and presently turning a cock pow∣red vpon vs a shower of raine, and there with did wet those that had most warily kept themselues from wetting at all the other fountaines. This Garden was full of pleasant hills and shades of Cipresse trees, and had three Cesternes of Marble to keepe water. Hauing now spoken of all the Dukes Pallaces within and neere the Citie, giue me leaue to relate by others report, that the Duke hath another Pallace ten miles distant from Florence, called Il Poggio, which he built for the pleasure of hunting.

This day being thus spent, we returned to Florence; and the next day wee went out on foote by the South Gate, to the stately Monastery of the Carthusians, called la Cer∣tosa, hauing in our company Italian Gentlemen, who caused vs to bee well entertained there, and inuited to dinner in their publique Refectory, where we had great cheare of fish, Pastry, and Sallats, but no flesh, which those Friers neuer eate, at least not publike∣ly. I made mention of this Monastery in my iourney from Sienna to Florence, at which time those that did pennance about Easter, flocked thither in great troopes, and now our Italian Consorts gaue vs the meanes to view the same. The Church is stately built, and the seates of the Chauncell are of Nut-tree. They did shew vs the statua of Saint Chrisostome to the middle of siluer, whose relikes also they keepe, and they shew∣ed vs one of the pots in which they said Christ turned water into Wine in Cana of Ga∣lily, (whereof the Papists shew many.) Also a statua of Saint Dennis Areopagita, of siluer, and like relikes kept there. These Friers professe great austeritie in Religion, and are tied to keepe silence, not Pithagoricall for some yeeres, but perpetuall, the lay-brethren excepted, who doe the manuall workes of the house. They neuer eate flesh, for such is their rule, which if they breake, yet they doe it not in the publike place of eating The Priest hauing sung Masse, doth after it many times bow downe his head, and then falles prostrate on his face, praying. Each Frier hath foure cells or chambers, and his pri∣uate Garden planted with fruit trees, and therein a priuate well. They haue no beds, but sleep vpon straw, and eat priuately In their owne Celles, only eating together in the publique roomes on the feast dayes, so as they may easily in priuate breake this vow of not eating flesh, if they list. To conclude, they giue large almes to the poore, and thus by shew of holines, getting great riches from Lay-mens gift, they think to deserue hea∣uen, by giuing them (as the prouerb is) a pig of their owne sow. The seate of this Mo∣nastery is very pleasant, vpon a Hill or little Mountaine. Hence wee returned to Florence.

All the Cities of Italy haue many houses wherein strangers may hire Chambers, cal∣led Camere locanti; and in Florence there be only three or foure publique Innes, all in one streete for daily passengers, and three huoses like Colledges, called Albergi, for those that make long stay in the Citie, wherein they may hire Chambers for ten giulij the month, the host being tied, after the manner of Italy, besides their Chamber and bed, to dresse their meate, and finde them linnen. I liuing after this fashion, remember these rates of things bought: for a pound of Almons vulgarly vna lira di Mandole, one giulio: a pound of great grapes dried, and called Susini sixe creitzers, two pigeons one giulio, that is eight creitzers; two Apricotts a quatrine; a pound of Mutton, foureteene fifteene or sixteene quatrines; a pound of Lambe twelue quatrines; two egges fiue or sixe quatrines, a pound of Raisons or lesse grapes dried two baelli; and of another

kinde, called Passere, sixe baelli; two Hennes fortie or fiftie sols; two Capons sixtie sols; two Apples one quatrine, and seuen Apples, one baello; an Orange two qua∣trines; two Citrones one baello; a pound of drie figges seuen or tenne quatrines; a pound of the greatest reasons, or dried Grapes called Sebibi, twelue quatrnies, and the best kinde eighteene quatrines; a pound of Rice foureteene or fifteene quatrines; a ves∣sell called boccale, of Oyle, twelue crietzer or baelli (being all one); a pound of butter, containing twelue ounces, two giulij, each ounce being seuen quatrines; two ounces and a halfe of sugar fiue baelli; an ounce of Nutmegs sixe baelli, a pound of Wal∣nuts twelue quatrines; two little fresh cheeses, called Recotti, thirteene quatrines; a fit proportion of any herbe for sallats one quatrine; and little proportions of any spice one quatrine, which proportion you may increase as you list. And I being lodged in the Albergo of the golden keyes, called Allechiaui d'oro nel'chiasso di 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Beuigliane, paied for my chamber by the month twelue giulij or reali; and moreouer for salt at table fiue Crietzeri or baelli. And in these Albergi, he that desires to liue at an ordinary, without trouble to buy his meate, vulgarly In dozina, shall pay for each meale two giu∣lij, and if he stay long, shall pay no more for two meales. And they were wont to giue a stranger his chamber and diet in these houses for tenne Crownes the moneth, each Crowne being ten giulij.

I being purposed to liue in the State of Florence this Summer, especially desired to spend my time in learning the Italian tongue, reputed the most pure in those parts; to which end I resolued to returne to Sienna, and liue in that Vniuersity: but because many Dutch and English Gentlemen liued there, which were of my acquaintance, and solita∣rie conuersing with the Italians best fitted my purpose, I rather chose to liue at the Ca∣stle S. Casciano, being a pleasant seate, and lying eight miles from Florence, in the way to * 1.92 Sienna. And because I liued in a publique Inne, and in a great high-way, and was shortly to passe through the Dutchie of Millan, subiect to the Spaniards, who then had warre with England, I did, for the auoiding of danger in that iourney, giue out that I was a Dutchman: but I staied here much longer then I purposed, for it happened at this time, that the Roman Inquisitors pursuing an English Gentleman, who had escaped their hands at Rome, did in stead of him cast another English Gentleman into prison, who then lay at Sienna, and was not much vnlike him. And howsoeuer the first Gen∣tleman escaping, the second was shortly set fiee, yet this chance made inee make lesse haste to Sienna; besides that I had my diet here at an easie rate, spending not aboue on Giulio each meale, and yet hauing such meate as I most desired, neately dressed, and be∣ing diligently attended: but especially the most pleasing conuersation of a Gentleman dwelling there, called Nicolao della Rocca, made me most vnwilling to leaue that Castle, and the rather because he had made me acquainted with a learned Kinsman of his Ra∣phaele Columbano a Florentine. And I freely confesse, that the curtesie and manifold vertues of this Gentleman Nicolao della Rocca, then tooke such impression in me, as I shall not onely so long as I liue dearely loue him, and his memory, but bee glad to doe any pleasure to his least friend, or any Florentine, aswell for their generall good desert, as for his sake more specially. He was my companion in viewing the pleasures of this Territory, where among other things I did see many delightfull Groues (vulgarly Bos∣chetti), Nets to catch birds (Ragnaij), Gardens for that purpose (Vccellart), al belonging to the Noble Florentine Families of Buondelmonte, and Guicciardini, hauing Pallaces neere adioyning (of which sports I shall more largely speake in the due place, treating of the Italian exercises.) And to make the delights of my stay in this place more par∣ticularly iustified, and to explane some euents therein mentioned, I will adde two Epi∣stles, which I then writ of this subiect, the first from this place, the second from Flo∣rence, after I was departed from this Castle, and these being written in Italian, I will al∣so turne into English.

All' Ill^re Sig^r Il Sig^r T. H. Nobile Inghlese mio oss^mo, A Pisa in Casaa di Messier T. A.

MAndato ch io hebbi le meie lettere a la vulta di vos' Signoria, stetti di lane fin' hora sempre in su l'occhi & l'orecchie (non senza rincrescimento della tardanza) badan∣do le suoe. Queste beanedette lettere tanto badate & hormai capitate, spieghai con tanta furia, non che fretta, che piu non hebbe mai l'affamato di mettersi a tauola. E lodato sia Iddio, poiche s' e indugiato vn' pezzo, finalmente il parto s'e fatto maschio, che tanti & cosi varij so∣no i soggetti proposti da lei, che paiano rechiedere risposta distesa. Onde io che son' scarico d' ogni impedimento, & sto sfacendato nella villa, come vn' Romito nel deserto, mi stenderò (con sopportatione però delle suoe orecchie) nel rispondere a tutti i partico∣lari d' esse. E prima le dirò raguaglio piu minutamente del caso Siennese. Sappia dun¦que che pochi giorni fa, il Sig^r. G. M. con tutto che se fosse publicamente impacciato in fatti di Stato, non dimeno per cauarsi il capriccio, trauestito da Suizzero, & par trop∣po (come mi pareua) contrafatto, voise arrischiarsi d'andar' da Fiorenza a Roma. Il viag∣gio gli riusci commoda〈…〉〈…〉c e, pero non s'era piu presto tornato a Sienna, & di la (con suoa buo∣na ventura) senza punto d tardanza messosi in camino la volta di Fiorenza, che dal'Inquisitori Romani sopragi••••se vn mandato al Podesta di Sienna di farlo prigione. Hora auenne ch'il Sig^r G. L. stando a Sienna & essendo (come sa lei) grandone, à aere allegro & hauendo altri contrasegni della suoa barba & cera, fu preso dai Sbirri, & per l'Inquisitori messo in prigione. Doue seppe con tal'discretione portarsi che loro auuedutosi d'hauerlo pigliato cosi in escambio, gli resero la liberià, laquale gode stando a Sienna fin' hora. Ma quel mandato passando olire, arrivò fin' a Fiorenza, doue il Sig' G M. per via d'vn' amico in Corte (non dico gia ch' il gran Ducane fosse cons••••euole) essendone informato di sera in su l' Aue-Maria, diede subito a le gambe, tenendo la volta di Paduoa, in tal fretta che pareua proprio volar' di la dell' Apennino senza a le Ringratiato 〈◊〉〈◊〉 il cielo che sia fugito a saluamento, che con tutto che a noi altri Todes∣chi rileua nulla, pure anch' io come vn forestiero in attristo & ho viuo risentimento delle disgratie d' altri che da suoi amici & dalla patria sono lontani. Non posso tenir le risa quando m' ima∣gino gli f•••• i salti ch' egli fa sopre le montose scoglie. I contadini deuono pensar' ch' egli vada a la caccia d' i Caprioli, che forse non s' accorgeranno quante fiate egli riuolge gli ovcchi sopra le spalle, & ad ogni passo guata,di paura a che qualche Veltro Romano non se gli auentasse adosso L'importanza, ch' egli non se faccia securo sotto qualche frasca, doue per ogni picciol' vento che soffi••, protrà essere tradito: che non fermandosi per strada, vil' do saluo, inteso che gli biac∣chi Romani per tracciar' in Stato d' i Veneti, poco, in State d'i Veneti, poco, di la dell' Alpi, nulla vagliano. Hora che va∣da egli a buon' viaggio & vi dirò fuora di burla, ch'io a la prima senti gran' dispiaecre di que∣sta percossa, finche intese le dette nuoue, mi son'rihauuto. Del resto, buon' per loro, che questo gli sia accaduto nel'State Fiorentino, che altramente i Preti l'arebbino fatto vn'mal scherzo. Tal sia di questo. Hora per ristorarci, ragionamo vn' poco d' Orlando. E' quanto a la vostra gran buona lingua Toscana (respondendoui capo per capo), vedete come non è melsenza Mosche ne vostra lettra (per gratiosa che sia,) senza suoe punture & fianchate. Può far il cielo, come si puo capitar' male per essere frainteso. Ch'io burla di voi? Dio non voglia ch'io burla d'amici miei mai mai mai: Mi rallegro ben co••••••••i tal' volta, &che volete ch' io faccia ••oi? non conos∣cendo altro soggetto delle lettre di trattenemento, che Cortigianie O baie. S' io pensassi che l' ore∣ste scritto da buon' senno, mi verrebbe talmente la Senapa al naso, che sarei per cozzar' col cappo contra il muro. Ma son' chiarissimo, che conquesta brigha m' habbitate volsuto dar' la baia, per farmi montar' in bestia contra mi stesso. Dunque vi replico, che malgrado vostra mi stupis∣cio ancora d'i vostri Toscanismi, non ch'io pensi ch'abbiate auanzato Petrarcha Dante,Bocca∣cio, con quelli altri maestri della' fauella volgare, ma che d'vn Nouizo siate riuscito vn' gran' Dottore, hauendoui fatto gran' profitto senza ch'io me n' auedesse, si non in quel tratto che me ue deste saggio per le vostre tanto garbate & gentile lettere. Talmente ch' il torto e vostro, d'esserui apigliato alle parole non al senso mio. Doglieteni poi di voi stesso per quel' disagio ch' il scriuere nella lingua Toscana vi possa recare, ch'io in Sul' ragionar' he cauato da vostra bocca propria, che questo vi sarebbe caro, & da parte mia spero coglierne frutto, dandoui occasione di segnar' le meie scorrettioni, & di farmi parte di quei vostri belli passi di Lasco. Il che vi suplico

far' meco a la libera, & in cito mostrarmi quanto mi vogliate bene. Conquesta risposta state cheto, sinon, fò giuro d'assassino, che vi loderò tanto in sul' viso, che vine verrà rossore. Pas∣so inanzi, done mi motteggiate, d'hauer messo quel' Oime a bella posta per far mostra elo∣quenza, & fatte professione d' essere schifo de lo scriuere per vergogna del vostro rozzo stilo. Buona fe: Riconosco l'Ironia. Contentateui & godeteui nel' seno senza trionfaruine, ch' io vicedo volentieri in ogni fatto d'ingegno, pure che mi sia lecito di parreggiarui d'amore. Ma per vindicarmi di vostre sferzate, & accioche non crediate ch' io cagliassi affatto per vostre brauerie Toscanesche, m'ingregnerò di riuolgere la colpa che m'imputate in su le spalle vostre. Et penso durarci poca satica, poiche voi sopra quella medesima parolina, Oime, hauete fat∣to vn' si bel' discorso, che vi debbano hauer' vna dolce inuidia gli valenti Teologi, i qua∣li però hanno il grido, poter' d' ogni poco di soggetto ragionar' dalla leuata infin' al tramon∣tar' del sole. Mi pare poich' andate troppo animosamente a la volta d'i Ciarletani, non curando di farui nemice queste gentaccie, a che se si aia nell' vnghie senza essere ben'prouisto di Copia verborum, mi racomando, che in quanto al' menar' la lingua, non hanno pari. Dauanzo la con∣fidenza della lingua sciolta, & della prontozza d'ingegno, vitrasporta a dir' molto male con∣tra la cosa piu garbata che altra che si sia nel mondo, cioe lettre di trattenemento. Per leuarui questo errore, succintamente dirò. Le cose che piu s'adoperano ci deuono essere piu care. L'aere che ci nodrisce, sopra ogni cosa si pregia. Il pan' & il vino, senza chi non si puo essere, piu si procacciano, che fasiani, tordi, O quaglie! Tali sono le lettre sopradette, ch' in ogni gentil' bri∣gata piu si ragiona di cortesia, d'Amore, di ciancie, che del piattire, o maneggiar'il stato. Et per non fasti dirui con infiniti argomenti: l'Arte & l'ingegno del'Oratare, si mostrano nella ra∣rità & sterilità della materia che si tratta, come nel' lodar' l'Asina, nel' dispregiar' le scientie, é cose simile. Ora per lettre di facende, non è huomo di si grossa pasta, che non le spedisca destra∣mente: la narratione del' biosogno, vn Miracomando, & bello finito. Maquelle altre, se non siano abellite con l'inuentiono, & quasi lisciate con certe strauaganzo, riescono fracide & di poca lode al scrittore. E' vero, ch' i Secretarij, Notaij, & tali gente facendate, scorticandosi (per modo di dire) ne lo scriuere, & impazzan done gli ceruelli, hanno qualche pretesto di ra∣gione, a lamentar si d'i complementi amoreuoli. Ma voi scio perati, stando nelle città, & che piu importa nelli studi Toscani, doureste hor maigridare: viuano le lettre di trattenemento, piene diparole gratiose. Hora fatte voi, andate, e si non vi pare ch'io v'habbia ben' acconciato, pig∣liateui spasso dell' eloquenza contadienesca. In su' l' stringere, mi date delle Signorie per farmi piacere, & me n' auertite ancora. O questo si. M' hauete tocco a punto doue mi duo'e. Et non vedete ch' in Italia c'ha carestia d'ogni cosa delle Signorie in fuora, che si danno a buona rata infino a i fachini. Tanto che si ben' io ne fosse ambitioso, tuttauia per il souerchio godere, ne re∣staria suogliato. Datemi allegramente del voi, senza parlar' in astratto con l' idei, che non mi terrò per affronto, anzi per Arra d' Amore. Io per me, uedendo che le Signorie non vi sono a grado non vi ne darò mai al'auuenire, si non in escambio di quelle, che mi mandarete a me, & in quel caso vile ronderò con l'interesse. Quanto a le vostre offerte si calde d'amistà, non mi basta l'animo spieghare, quanto mi son' ite a sangue. Ma forza m'e responderui in pre∣sente con l'animo, fino che m'occorre farlo con l'opere: pure in quel mentre miui impegno, & miui dono per tutto quel che porta il mio valsente Fatte di me cio che volete tenetemiui per schiauo, & si bisognasse, vendetemi a Turchi: che volete altro? Direte poi che son'baie an∣che queste, & non sapete ch'il Poeta sotto parole finte adombra il vero? Credetimi, se non volete ch' io vsa di furiosi protestationi, perchae in ogni modo voglio che mi si creda. Parlo da senno, commandatomi a fidanza, doue posio essere buono per vostro seruitto, come io mi seruirò libera∣mento di voi, il che vedrete in effetto per la brigha che vi da l'inclusa. Et con quaesto vi bacio le mani, & anche le guancie (a la venetiana).

Da San' Casciano a li vinti tre di Luglio. 1594.

Desso in guisa di fratello, Fines Morysoni.

All' Ill^re Sig^r il Sig^r Nicolao Della Rocca mio oss^mo, a casa suoa in San' Casciano.

o sia consegnata a le mani, &c.

CHe possino essere consinate nelli studioli d'i Mercatanti queste faconde, (per non dir' peg∣gio): poiche m' hanno fatto, non dismenticarmi di V. S. (che questo non farebbono g••amai), ma ben' a'inaugiar' troppo a farle fede della mia dolce rimēbranza di lei. Hora essendo o in su la partenza per andar' la volta di Paduoa, mi son' mosso a scriuerle queste poche righe, con patto che non le manda al' Academia della Crusca per essere censurate, poiche essendo io (per dire, a Cauallo, forza e, che loro participano della confusione & del' scompiglio in che io mi ••rüouo. E pure possible ch' vn' galant' huomo suo pare manca della promessa? Io staua a vedere con che si∣curtà lei procedesse meco, per pigliarne qualche saggio di suo amore, & l'a(peccaua parechi gior∣ni (dirò liberamente non senza mio sconcio) per darle l' vltimi Ideij. Ma poiche, operismomoragine, o altra cagione che si sia, questo aboccamento non c'eriascito, ne manco ci resta mezo a reuederci per acconciar' a bocca questa brigha Non c'ha altro remedio si non di far'pace a bell' agio per lettre. A che debito io mentre che starò a Paduoa non mancarò da parte mia, & tornato che sarò in paese mio, secondo l'occorrenze, raffazzonorò quel' poco della fauella Toscana, che d' vn' viaggio fra tante confusione di lingue m' auanzerà, & le chiarirò, ch' il suo amore mi sarà assai piu cresciuto, che questa non mi sarà scemati. Duoe cose mi promano. La prima e quel' carico delle suoe cortesie vsate verso di me, che m'ha mes∣so in su' l' dosso, di tanto peso quanto lei sa: loquale il Sig^r Raphaele Colombani di qua anche piu m' aggraua, chi m' ha inuitato amoreuolmente a casa suoa, m' ha menato a la Certosa, & in somma trattomi con tanta amoreuolezza quanta non si può dire. Io lo rece∣uo come satto per amor' di V. S. (che non m' inganno delli miei pochi merui) & tutta io non lene ringratto altramente, perche in questi simili, fatti non c' ha pagha ai parole. Il secondo •• ar∣tello che lauorànel'mio ceruelio s' e ch' essendo, io talmente tenuto a V. S. mi sento grauata la conscienza, a hauerla ingannata in vn' certo particulare. Il che tanto piu mi pesa quanto piu per quel' inganno mi si toglie affatto ogni speranza, di poter' mostra lene grati••udine, se per caso mi se presentasse l' occasione, (della quale quanto io sia bramoso, Dio vel' dica.) Hora per sgrauar' l' vna & sgannar l' altra a vn' tratto, per questa charta (priuilegiata come le maschere, di non arrossire per grande che sia la vergogna del' Patron) le fo fede ch' io son Inghlese, e non mica Todesco, come l' ho dato ad intendere fin' hora. Et accioche non ne ritragga d' essere abba∣tuto in qualche Iuntatore, o personaggio indegno di quella s••oa accoglienza che m'ha fatta so∣pra modo gentile, sappia che per rispetti honore no li io m' habbia in tal' guisa mascarato. Non dubito punto, che l'e gia hormai chiara l'inimicitia ch' abbiano i nostri con i spagnuoli, tanto che si l' vn' capitasse in man' dell' altro, difatto restaria prigione infino che fosse riscattato. Hora hauendo Io da passare fra pochi giorni pel' Ducato di Milano, mi pareua cosa sciocca di darmi a conoscere, spetialmente stando io in vn' hosteria nella strada maestra, per doue tutti di quelle bande giornalmente passano. Ho firma speranza, che lei sia per farmi buona l' iscusa, o vero al manco per perdonarmi l' errore. Si ricorda che le son s••ruitore piu che mai, ne posso essere piu suo che mi sono, & mantenga l' Inghlese nella suoa buona gratia per quella suoa gentilezza propria, per laquale e stata acquistata al Todesco: che degnandosi di commandarmi in persona d' Inghlese, mi rincuoro far' ogni gran' cosa per amor suo, che potrebbe far' qual si voglia To∣desco. Et con questo, abbracciandola cosi da lontano, mi l' offero & racomando vna volta per sempre. Et di nuouo le bacio le mani.

Da Fiorenza a li dieci d' Aousto, l' An' 1594.

Di V. S. affett^mo. seruitore, F. M.

To the noble Gentleman M. T. H. a Gentleman of England my most respected, at Pisa in the house of Master T. A.

AFter I had sent mine vnto you, mine eyes and eares were euer attentiue to receiue your answere, not without some griefe that it was so long delaied. These bles∣sed * 4.1 letters so much expected, are at last ariued, which I opened in as great haste, as hun∣gry men set downe to table. And faire is our fortune, after patient expecting, at last wee haue got a man-childe: for so many and so diuers are the subiects you pro∣pound, as they seeme to require a large answere. And therefore I that am as much at leasure in the Countrey, as an Hermit in the Desart, will enlarge my selfe (with your patience) to answere all the particulars. And first I will giue you an account of the chaunce at Sienna. Know then that of late Master W. M. howsoeuer hee had publikely imploied himselfe here in matters of State, yet to satisfie his owne hu∣mour, would needes venter to goe from Florence to Rome, apparelled like a Switzer, and (as it seemed to me) too much disguised. His iourney fell out well, yet hee was no sooner returned to Sienna, & from thence (by good aduenture) gone towards Florence, but a Mandate came from the Inquisitors of Rome to put him in prison at Sienna. Now it happened, that Master W. L. lying then at Sienna, and being (as you know) high of stature, and of chearefull countenance, and hauing other markes of his beard and face, was taken by the Scrgiamts, and imprisoned by the Inquisitors of Sienna. Where hee carried himselfe with that discretion, as they perceiuing they had mistaken him, set him at libertie, which hee now enioyes at Sienna. But the Man∣date passing forward came to Florence, where Master W. M. hauing notice there∣of in the euening about Aue Marie time, by a friend in Court (I say not with the Dukes priuitie,) presently tooke him to his heeles towards Paduoa, in such haste, as hee seemed to flie ouer the Apennine without wings. And now (God be praised) hee is in safetie For howsoeuer this chance importeth not vs that are Dutchmen, yet my selfe as a stranger, am sorrie for any disaduentures happe∣ning to others, who are farre from their friends and Countrey. I cannot hold from laughing, when I imagin with my selfe, what large steppes hee makes o∣uer the rockey Mountaines. The Countrey people will thinke that hee hunts for Kiddes, not marking how often hee lookes backe, for feare least some Roman Greyhound should lay hold on him behind. The maine doubt is, that hee thinke not himselfe safe, where hee may bee betraied; for if hee stay not by the way, I dare assure you of his safetie; the Roman Hounds hauing little skill to hunt in the State of Venice, and none at all beyond the Alpes. Now let him goe on his happie voyage, and I will tell you without iest, that I was much astonished at this accident, till I was restored by vnderstanding this happie euent. It was well for them that this happened in the State of Florence, for otherwise the Priests would haue sifted them like bran. So much for them. Now for pastime, let vs talke a little of Orlando. And that I may answere you from point to point, first, concerning your excellent Tuscan language; see how there is neuer honv without stinging Bees, neither are your louing letters without their exceptions. How soone a man may be blamed, being misunderstood. Should I iest at you? sure I neuer iest at my friends, sometimes I am merry with them, and what would you haue mee doe, know∣ing no other subiect of idle letters, but complement and mirth. If I thought you had written this in earnest, I should take such pepper in the nose, as I should bee readie to run my head against the wall: but I am most certaine you haue picked this quar∣rell with mee, to make mee angrie with my selfe. Therefore I replie howsoeuer you take it, that I am still amased at your Tuscan eloquence, not that I think you passe Petrarch Dante, and Baccaceo, and the other great Masters of that language, but that of

a nouice, you are become a Doctor, before I could perceiue it, had you not giuen mee this taste thereof by your gentle letters. So as you are in the wrong, taking my words and not my meaning; and blame your selfe for the trouble you haue in answering mee in the Italian Tongue, since I vnderstood from your owne mouth, that you would willingly exchange such letters, which for my part will bee profitable to me, giuing you occasion to correct my errours, and to impart vnto mee the eloquent phrases of Lasco. And this I pray you doe freely with me, and therein shew me how much you loue me. Be content with this answere, otherwise (I sweare by no beggars) I will praise you so much to your face, as I will make you blush. I goe forward, and come to your quip, that I began my letters with the word (Alas) to shew my cloquence, and that you were ashamed to write to mee for your rude stile. Very good, I finde the Irony: content your selfe that I gladly yeelde to you in all points of wit, so it may bee lawfull for me to equall you in loue. Yet to reuenge this frump, and that you may not thinke I am daunted with your Toscan brauery, I will attempt to cast that vpon your owne shoulders, which you impute to me, and this I thinke to doe with ease, since vpon this one little word (Alas) you haue made so faire a discourse, as you may iustly bee enuied by our great Diuines, who vpon the least subiect are held able to discourse from morning till night. Againe, me thinkes you are somewhat too bold with the Mountibankes, not caring to make them your enemies, into whose hands if you fall, without being well stored with Copia verborum, woe be to you, for you know they are most skilfull Fencers with the tongue. Moreouer, the confidence of your skill in this tongue, transports you to speake ill of the most gentle and delight∣full thing in the world, namely, of complementing letters. And to cure you of this er∣rour, I will briefely remember you. That the things of greatest vse, are most deare vn∣to vs. The aire that nourisheth vs, is most of all deare. All men seeke more for bread and wine, without which they cannot liue, then for Phesants, Black-birds or Quailes: such are letters of complement: for in euery gentle company, there is more discourse of courtesie, loue, and toies, then of Law or State matters. And not to be tedious with many arguments. The art and wit of the Orator is most shewed in the barrennesse of the subiect whereof he speakes, as in praising the Asse, dispraising liberall sciences, and in like subiects. Now for letters of busines, no man is so blockish that cannot easily dispatch them; when he hath told the businesse, and bid farewell, all is done. But if letters of complement bee not beautified with inuention, they are dull, and the writer deserues small praise. It is true, that Secretaries, and Scriueners, tyred with writing of businesse, haue some reason to declame against letters of complement, but you being at leasure, and liuing in a Citie, yea, in an Vniuersitie of Toscany, should say with me, well fare letters of complement, full of gratious words. Goe too now, and if you thinke I haue not wel fitted you, heareafter make your selfe sport with our Country eloquence. Towards the conclusion, you giue me many Master-ships (or worships) to doe mee pleasure, and you remember me of it, least I should not see it. Indeed you haue now hit me iust where my paine lies, yet you know nothing is so cheape in Italy as masterships, which are plentifully giuen to very Porters, so as if I loued them well, yet the very plen∣ty of them, would make them irkesome. Write you to me without any speaking of Masterships in the third person, which I wil take for no disgrace, 'but rather for a pledge of your loue. And for my part, since these titles are vnpleasing to you, I will hence for∣ward send you no more of them, except it be in exchange of those you shall send me, in which case I will pay you with vsurie. Touching your affectionate offers of loue to me, I cannot expresse how I take them to heart, but for the present I can returne you no∣thing but words, till occasion serues to witnesse my loue in action, and in the meane time I leaue my selfe at the stake with you, yea, I giue my selfe to you, all that little I am worth, doe with me what you please, keepe me for your seruant, and if neede hee, sell me to the Turkes: what would you haue more? You will say also that this is writ∣ten in ieast, yet you know that Poets vnder fained words shadow the truth. Beleeue me, except you will haue me vse furious protestations, for I will and must be beleeued.

I speake in good earnest, commaund me with securitie, where I am good for your ser∣uice, for my selfe will freely make bold with you, as in effect you may see in the trouble I giue you by the inclosed. And so I kisse your hands, and also your cheekes after the manner of Venice.

From Saint Casciano this23 of Iuly, 1594.

The same, as your brother, F. M.

To the noble Sig^r. the Sig^r. Nicolao della Rocca my most respected, at his house in Saint Casciano; or to his hands.

LEt this foolish businesse (not to say worse) bee confined to Merchants counting∣houses, since it hath made me, not forget you (which it can neuer doe,) but to vse too great delay in giuing you testimony of my kind remembrance of you. Now being ready to take horse for my iourney to Paduoa, I thought good to write these few lines vnto you, with condition that you send them not to be censured in the Academy della Crusea, for my selfe being thus remouing, they must needes participate the confusion in which I am for the present. Is it possible that a braue Gentleman like your selfe should faile of his promise? I stood looking with what securitie you would proceede with mee, to take it for an euidence of your loue, and expected many daies (I will say freely not without some inconuenience) to haue the happinesse to see you ere I went. But since either by your forgetfulnesse, or other reason best knowne to you, this our meeting hath not succeeded, and there is no more hope that wee should meete to reconcile this quarrell, there is no other remedie but to make our peace at leasure by ex∣change of letters. In which dutie (for my part) I will not faile, so long as I shall stay at Paduoa. And when I shall bee returned into my Country, I will vpon all occasions, scoure vp that little Toscane language, which after my long iourney through confu∣sion of tongues shall be remaining vnto me, to make it appeare to you, that howsoeuer my language be decreased, yet my heartie loue towards you shall euermore increase. Two things lie heauie vpon me; first the burthen of your curtesies, wherwith you haue loded me, as you best know, and wherwith Sig^r Raphaele Colombani hath newly charged me here, by inuiting me friendly to his house, by leading me to the Monastery Certosa, and by entartaining me with vnspeakable kindnes, which I take as done for your sake, (knowing my owne small desert), and yet I doe not so much as thanke you for it, be∣cause I know such fauours can not bee repaied with words. The second thing which lies heauie vpon me, is that being thus bound vnto you, I am ashamed to haue deceiued you in one point, which so much the more grieues mee, because this deceit hath vtterly taken from me all hope, to expresse my loue to you hereafter vpon any happie occasi∣on, then which nothing should be more pleasing to me. Now at once to disburden my selfe, and to cleare you for being any longer deceiued, by this paper (hauing the priui∣ledge of Maskers vizards, which neuer blush, howsoeuer their Masters haue cause to bee ashamed), I let you know, that I am an Englishman, and not a Dutchman, as I haue hitherto caused my selfe to bee reputed. And lest you should there∣by doubt, that you haue cast your loue vpon a Iugler, or a man vnworthy your so great fauours; know that for honourable respects I haue thus concealed my Countrey. I am sure you know, that the English haue warre with the Spa∣niardes, so as either falling into the hands of the other, should bee lawfull pri∣soners vpon Ransome, and I being within few dayes to passe through the Dut∣chey of Milan, did therefore thinke it no wisedome to make my selfe knowne, especially lying in a publique Inne, vpon the beaten high-way, which all men of those parts daily passe. I am confident that you will make good my excuse, or at least pardon my errour; remember that I am your seruant more then euer, neither can bee 〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

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more yours then I am; & maintaine the Englishman in your good fauour, by the same gentlenesse, in which you vouchsafed it to me as a Dutch-man: for in whatsoeuer you shall commaund me as an English-man, my heart serues mee to doe you as faithfull seruice, as any Dutch-man whatsoeuer. And so imbracing you thus farre off, I offer and recommend my selfe to you once for all. And againe I kisse your hands.

From Florence this tenth of August, 1594.

Your affectionate seruant, F. M.

I had taken my iourney from Saint Casciano to Florence, that I might receiue money, and now vpon a sudden occasion being to returne to Sienna, and from thence to Pado∣ua, I hired a horse to Sienna, but haue omitted what I paied for the same, and so I retur∣ned to Sienna by the same way I came, namely, to Trauernelle fifteene miles, and to Sienna seuenteene, which iourney for others instruction I will particularly set downe.

To Saint Casciano eight miles; to Colmo foure; to Barbarino sixe; to Puodibonzo sixe; to Sienna fiue, being in all thirtie two miles.

The situation of Sienna is most pleasant, vpon a high hill, and the forme not vnlike to an earthen vessell, broad in the bottom, and narrow at the mouth, which narrow part lies towards the West, where comming from Florence, you enter by the Gate Ca∣molea. Neere the same is a Fort, wherein the great Duke keepes souldiers, and there without the gate is the Church of Saint Marie, whether was great concourse of people for deuotion. From hence to the East gate, leading towards Rome, the streetes lie euen and plaine, though the Citie be seated vpon a mount; and in this part toward the East, the City is broadest, and from this gate a man may see the Castle Redicofini, forty miles distant, vpon the confines of the States of the Pope and the great Duke. Betweene the said gates, as it were in the center of the City, lies a most faire Marketplace, in the forme of an Oyster, and lying hollow as the shell thereof is. And there is a stately Pallace of the Senate, built when the Citie was free; in the front whereof is a statua of mixt met∣tall, vulgarly called di bronzo, which seemes to bee apparelled, hauing on the head a broad hat and this statua strikes the houre of the clock. On the South-East side with∣in the walles lies a large field, which was then sowed with corne, yet the Citie hath few or no Gardens within the wall.

Not farre from the walles on the South-side, lies the Cathedrall Church vulgarly called Il Domo, and howsoeuer it be little, it seemed to me the fairest Church in Italy. It hath but one dore, to which you ascend by long and broad Marble staires. All the pauement is most beautifull of ingrauen Marble, adorned with Images of the fiue Sy∣bills; and there be in this Church some twentie Images of mixt mettall, besides many other of Marble. The seates of the Chauncell are of Walnut-tree, curiously carued; and all the roofe of the Church is painted of skie colour, and all set with starres. Vpon the inside, and in the vpper part of the Church, are the Images of the Popes, wrought in stone to the shoulders, set round about, where betweene Gregorie the fourth, and A∣drian the second, I wondred to see the head of Pope Ioane, with the inscription naming her, especially in a Citie so neere Rome. Hauing noted this at Sienna, and after my com∣ming * 5.1 into England reading the same, I searched Histories to see how they agreed in this matter, which the Papists cannot heare with patience. And I found in approued Authors, that after the said Gregory the fourth, succeeded Sergius the second (confirmed by the Emperour Lotharius, in the yeere 844); then Leo the fourth (dying in the yeere 854); then Pope Ioane (setting two yeeres and few moneths, and dying in the yeere 856); then Benedict the third, then Nicholas the Great (in the yeere 858); then the foresaid Adrian the second (in the yeere 867.) And if any man aske, why the heads of Sergins the second, Leo the fourth, Benedict the third, and Nicholas the great being omitted, the head of Pope Ioane should stand betweene the heads of Gregorie the fourth, and Adrian the second, I leauing the curious search

thereof to them that list dispute it, as a matter nothing to my purpose, can suddenly giue no other reason thereof, then that I coniecture the said heads were set on the other side of the Church: for at that time I was content to note the same, without casting this doubt, and so not searching to satisfie my selfe therein. But I dare boldly affirme, that my selfe and the two Dutch-gentlemen my consorts, did see this monument in this Church neere the doore on the right hand as we came in. And since that time, I haue conferred with diuers worthy English Gentlemen, who affirmed that they did see the same. In this Church are two sepulchers, one of Pope Alexander the third, the other of Pope Pius the second. And in a Chappell of this Church, is a most faire Font.

From this Church discending by slope and steepe streetes towards the South-west wall, you shall come to a most pleasant Fountaine, called Fonte Branda, without the South-gate, of which the Citizens prouerbially say, that if a stranger drinke thereof, he shall so loue Sienna, as he shall very vnwillingly and scarce at all depart from the City. But the Florentincs in scorne of the Siennesi, haue a prouerbe, Chi de fonte Bran∣da beue, diuenta pazzo; He that drinkes of the fountaine Branda, becomes a foole. It casts out water by nine mouthes of stone, and there be three places where Laundresses wash, and neere the same is a pleasant groue. On the same South side towards the Sea, some few miles from the Towne, lies a fenny plaine called La Maremma, most fruitfull in corne, but infamous for ill aire; so as the place being forsaken by all Italians, is tilled by the Grisons, comming downe from the Alpes to this place in winter time, when the Alphes are all couered with snow, and in the spring time returning backe in∣to their owne Countrey Sienna it selfe is much subiect to raine, so as a Spaniard com∣ming often thither in rainy weather, did write, or is said to haue written to his friend, for a wonder, that it alwaies rained at Sienna. On the North-east side of the City, two large fields within the wals, are sowed with corne: All the pauement of the streets is of bricke, which lasteth the longer, because there be neither carts nor coaches, but all burthens are carried vpon the backes of Asses. There is a stately Pallace which Pope Pius the second built, who was a Citizen of Sienna, of the Family of Picciolomini, and there in the Mount Oliuet the passion of Christ is curiously grauen. It is vulgarly and truely said, that Sienna abounds with Fountaines, Towers, and faire Weomen: There is no better place to liue in through all Italy, then the state of Florence, and more specially the most sweet City of Sienna. The Citizens whereof are most curteous, and they haue many publike meetings of the young weomen & Virgines to dance, where the doore is open for any Citizen or stranger.

Besides Sienna is commended for the best language, and in the same, and in all the state of Florence, men liue safe from robberies, and from the murthers, which are fre∣quent in Lombardy. Adde that they haue delicate diet, at Florence at a reasonable rate, and in the rest of the territory at a very cheape rate. Our Hostesse at Sienna gaue vs cleane linnen often changed both at bed and boord, a large chamber, a good bed, a lin∣nen canopy oft changed, and did prouide our meat very cleanly; for which each man paid no morethen ten giulij by the moneth. We bought our owne meat, and I remem∣ber that the price of oyle was twenty fiue lires the barrell, that I paid for as much wood as an Asse would beare foure baelli. They haue butter, but not so good as in the valley of Arno, and they sell it twenty two sols the ounce. The Magistrate sets a price vpon euery thing to be sold in the market, neither dare any man sell ought, before his price be set; and vpon the Butchers stals, a bill is set of the prices at which they must sell their meat, so as a stranger cannot be deceiued. The price of wheat was 120. lires the Moggio, containing forty eight English peckes, and each lire is a giulio and a halfe. The Toscanes hold Rammes stones fried for a great daintie, which they call 1 a Granella, and sell it after a giulio the pound, at Sienna commonly they eat Kids flesh for three baeli the pound, and a whole Kidde for foure giulij and a halfe, Mutton two baeli and a halfe the pound, a Kiddes head three baeli, Bacon eighteene quatrines the pound, Cheese a giulio the pound, little birds a quatrine a peece, a vessell of wine con∣taining thirty two boccali and a halfe for ten giulij and two baeli.

The eighteenth of Nouember in the yeere 1594, I rode forty miles to Lucca, and ten * 5.2 to Pisa. If any man desire to know the right way from Sienna to Pisa, I will set it downe by relation of a friend, who rode the same in a day and night, without intermission, being fifty miles; the first seuen through mountaines, thirteene miles through pleasant hils, and thirty miles in a plaine, tilled after the Lombard fashion, with corne, and vines growing vpon Elmes, and he reported the way to be most safe by night as well as day, though a man were knowne to carry money. But I returne to my owne iourney from Sienna, where I hired a horse to Lucca for foureteene giulij; and the first day in the morning I rode twenty two miles to Castell Fiorentine, in a narrow plaine, betweene fruitfull hils of pasture and corne. By the way I lighted at Castell Certaldo, seated vpon a mount, that I might see the sepulcher of Iohn Boccacio, vpon which these verses (of his owne inuention while he liued) were engrauen:

Hac sub Mole iacent cineres ac ossa Iohannis, Mens sedet ante Deum meritis ornatalaboris; Mortalis vitae genitor Boccacius illi: Patria Certaldo, studium fuit alma Poesis. Vnder this Pile Iohns bones and ashes lie, His soule at rest enioies his labours hire; Borne at Certald, he studied Poesie, Boccacio was the sirname of his Syre.

Collucius Pierius hath added more in old Lombard letters, in the yeere 1375, and vp∣pon the very sepulcher other writings are raced out, vnder which this is written in La∣tine: Lact antius Theobaldus when he was Podesta (or Gouernour) at Certaldo for the people of Florence, admiring his pleasant wit and quicke inuention, did for the renewing of his memory, erect this monument to him at his owne charge, and that by fines imposed in the yeere 1500. Also his statua without a beard carued in marble, was set vpon his Toome. At Castell Fiorentino I paid three giulij and a halfe for my dinner, and one giulio for my horse-meate.

After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Ponte Capiano, where euery horse of Carriers laded, and of Vetturines hired, paieth two giulij to the Duke, which taxe they say the Duke imposed, to withdraw Merchants from trading that way, leading to Lucca. All the way the fields were tilled on the Lombard fashion, with corne, and vines growing vpon Elmes. Before we had rode two miles, I passed the Riuer Arno, and paid halfe a giulio for my passage. At Ponte Capiano I paid ten baeli for my supper vpon reckoning, & twelue baeli for oates for my horse, and eight baeli for hay, straw, and stable roome. The second day in the morning I rode through the like way, (hauing mountaines on my right hand towards the North) seuen miles in the state of Florence, and six miles to Lucca in that free state. This City I haue discribed before; and here I paid for my din∣ner vpon reckoning two giulij and a halfe. After dinner I hired a horse for two giulij, and rode through like way, in a fruitfull plaine, fiue miles in the state of Lucca, and then fiue miles more to Pisa, passing into that state ouer a high mountaine, and the rest of the way lying through fenny grounds. This City I haue discribed before, and here I paid for my supper three giulij or reali.

And because the passage by sea was more dangerous from Ligorno to Genoa, I hired a horse to Lirigi for one piastro or siluer crowne. The first day I rode twelue miles, through an open plaine, to Via Regia, and there passing out of the state of Florence into that of Lucca, I rode eight miles through a thicke wood, where the quarters of theeues were newly hung vp, who few daies before had robbed and almost killed a French∣man; and then entering againe the state of Florence, I rode one mile to Pietra Santa, and fiue miles more in the same state of Florence, and one mile and a halfe in the state of Lucca, and halfe a mile to Masso in the state of the Prince of Masso, who is a Marquesse of the Family of Malaspina. All this way being through a plaine, tilled after the manner of Lombardy, with mountaines of Chesse-nuts on the right hand, hauing in all rode this day twenty eight miles.

In this Citty of Masso the Post-master staied vs from going any further, pretending

to giue vs new horses, because those we had were hired of his man at Pisa: but the true cause was, that we might lodge in his house that night, to which my companions a∣greed, but my selfe being destrous to see the quarries of marble at Carrara, tooke of him halfe the piastro I had paid at Pisa, and so I left my horse. Then turning out of the way, I went on foot three miles to Carara, through wooddy mountaines abounding with Chesse-nuts. This Towne is subiect to the Prince of Masso, and is famous for the marble, which is much preferred before other, as well for the exceeding whitenes of some stones, as for the length of pillars and tables digged thence, which madeit much esteemed at Rome in the time of the free state, and of the Empire; and by rea∣son it lies neere the sea, the stones are more easily conuaied to Rome, or els where. In one of the quarries called Pianella, I did see many stones digged out, which were as white as snow, and other quarries haue veines of all colours: and they sell as much marble as an Oxe will draw for twenty sols; but if it be carued there, the price is grea∣ter, according to the workemanship. Each quarry is proper to some priuate man, and if any man digge in another mans quarry, they fine him at twenty crownes, or more according to the dammage. When I beheld the beauty of Men and Weomen in these parts, which seemed to me greater then in any other part of Italy, I remembred the Pa∣triarke Iacob, who laid party coloured rods in the watring troughes, when the Ewes were in heat, to make them bring party coloured lambes: and I thought by the same reason and force of nature, that they who digged these white marbles, might haue a more beautifull race. The Innes of this Towne were base, and onely fit to entertaine Artificers: and here I paid for a poore supper of herbes, egges, and chessenuts, ten baeli.

The second day in the morning, I went forward in my iourney on foot, and that a∣lone, first three miles to the confines of the Marquesate of Masso, then foure miles in the Territory of Genoa, to a strong Fort belonging to that State, and seated in a plaine; and I paid for my passage ouer the Riuer Magra two baeli: and after I went three miles ouer mountaines, abounding with Oliue trees, and the tree Lecha yeelding a fruit like the Oliue, and so I came to Lirigi, a Hauen Towne vpon the Tirrhene sea, whence we were to sayle by the shore to Genoa.

There we expected passengers and a good wind for some few daies. And at the same time there was the French Cardinall of Ioyeuse, who was to saile into France. I paid each night foure bolinei for my bed, and eating vpon reckoning, I spent lesse then two giulij by the day. They vse to make this voyage to Genoa in little Barkes called Fregate, and a lesse kind of boates called Feluce, and each night to strike into some Port vpon the Coast. I passed in a Feluca, and paid three reali for my passage.

The first day we sayled in a short space from Lirigi to Wien, a Hauen not farre di∣stant, vnder a promontory, at the enterance into this sea, but the wind being high, and our boat little, and somewhat ouer loaded, and the marriners themselues shewing no great confidence, we durst not put forth to sayle any further. I paid a cauelotto, that is foure bolinei for my bed with a companion, and six bolinei for my supper. The second day the wind being somewhat calmed, we sailed not without danger thirty miles, to Sestri another Hauen. This day was the day of Saint Katherine, the Patronesse of Mar∣riners, who thinke that no man was euer drowned that day, but they obserue that after that day the winds vse to grow boisterous. I would willingly haue gone by land, but this Coast being all of high Rockes, there was no good high way ouer them, nor commodity for passage. Yet you cannot imagine a more fruitfull and pleasant place, then the narrow vallies and hils lying vpon the sea side: onely this coast lying vpon the south sunne; breathing fier out of Affricke, is subiect to great heat in summer time. This Territory doth so abound with fruitfull trees and flowers, as the markets are fur∣nished with them in the very moneth of December. It yeeldeth noble wines; namely, Lavernazza, and in villages called Cinqueterre, the wine called Le lagrime di Christo, that is, the teares of Christ, which is so pleasant, as the Ialians say, that a Dutchman tasting it, did greatly lament that Christ had not wept in his Conntrey. At Sestri we had delicate white bread and excellent wine, (as likewise in all this iourney) and all

things at a cheape rate, and each man spent there nine bolinei.

The third day we sailed ten miles ouer an arme of the sea, to Porto Fino, called of old the Hauen Delfinus, now they call it Fino for the goodnes thereof. On the East side of this Promontory the sea was most calme, but when we passed to the West side, the winds were so high, and the waues so troubled, as we had almost beene cast away, and were by force driuen vpon the side of a Rocke, where my consorts trusted to their crucifixes, vowes, and beades, (vpon which they number their praiers), and my selfe creeping vpon hands and knees, with great difficulty first got to the top of the rocke, where being in safety, the name of the Hauen came in my mind, which answereth to my Christian name, and thanking God for my deliuerance from this danger, I was glad that I escaped christening in this Hauen of my owne name. After my other con∣sorts climbed to me, and thence we went on foot ten miles by the twilight of the eue∣ning and Moone light, to a village, where each man vpon reckoning paid sixe bolinei for his supper.

The next morning early before day breake, we went forward on foot, our consorts of Genoa often warning vs to be silent for feare of theeues, and after we had gone sixe miles, we came by the breaking of the day to Genoa. By the way we did see a Village * 5.3 all ruined, and they told vs that Turkish Pirates landing suddenly, had spoiled the same and burnt it, and had pulled downe the Churches and Altars, and among other Prisoners, had taken away a most faire Virgine from her bridegroomes side, who had married her the day before.

[illustration]

The description of Genoa.

(A) The Fort of the sea banke, (B) Statuaes erected to the builders thereof, (C) the Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria, without the wals vpon the sea, (D) the statua of Andrea d' Auria vpon the wall, (E) the new Fort, (F) the new streete most stately built, (G) the Cathedrall Church, (K) Saint Mathewes Church, (L) the Dukes Pallace, (M) the inner Hauen, (N) the Tower Faro and the ruines of the Fort called La Briglia, that is, the bri∣dle, (PPPP) three gates of the City, and the fourth leading to the Hauen. On the North-east side where the sea lies (P) vpon the City we entered, and at the very ente∣rance, we did see two stately Pallaces of Georgio d' Auria, and a Gentleman called Seba,

and sixe other Pallaces, but lesse stately. Gtnoa is seated vpon the sides of mountaines and hils, declining from the highest mountaine on the Westside, towards the East, and to the sea side. Vpon the foresaid North, and North-east side, werelong suburbs, and two gates, and without the wals a Riuer fals from the Westerne mountaines towards the East, and so into the Sea. On the South-side is the outward Hauen, in the forme of a halfe moone, vpon the horne whereof towards the East, lies the sea banke, called La Mola, about 600. paces long, which keepeth off the waues of the sea that beat vpon the City on the East side. And in the middest of this bank is a (A) Fort built to detend the Nauy. There also are certaine statuaes (B) erected to the founders of the building. And in the furthest corner of this hauen towards the City, is an (M) inner hauen, com∣passed with wals, where the gallies lie vnder a couered biniding. Neer that is the Armo∣ry of the City, & the chief gally in the Port called, La Reale, the Regal, was about seucn∣ty fiue walking paces long, and they sayd that foure hundred Rowers belonged to the same. At the other horne of the outward Port towards the south-west, is the (N) tower Faro vpon firme land, kept by certaine watchmen, who by night hang out lights to di∣rect the marriners at sea. Neere that lies the Fort Lahiigita, that is, the bridle, which the French King Lewis the twelfth fortified: but the Citizens: expelling the French out of the City, demolished the same. Thence as you walke towards the City, and before you enter into the gates, lies; C) the stately Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria (or Doria) the buil∣ding whereof, the garden, the staires to discend to the sea, the banquetting house, and diuers open galleries, are of Kingly magnificence. Not farre thence vpon the wall is a (D) statua erected to Andrea 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Aurta, late Admirall to the Spanish Fleete. Then you come to the (P) gate of the City, and not far thence within the wals, is (P) ano her gate leading to the inner Hauen, where the Gallies lie. Not farre thence is the most faire Ca∣thedrall (G) Church, in which is an ancient monument of mettall, digged out of the adiovning valley, which hath an old inscription, shewing the antiquity of the City-Not farre thence is the (K) Church Saint Matthew, wherein the Prinets of the Family of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 haue long had their monuments. Neere that lies the (L) Dukes Pallace, not his priuate Pallace, but publike, which is kept by a guard of Dutchmen, who also haue the keeping of two of the strongest gates of the City. In the Court yard of this Pallace, is a foot ftatua, armed and of white marble, erected to the foresaid Andrea d' Aurta, by the Senate with the title of Father of his Countrey, because ne had lately restored the Citizens to their liberty. And in an vpper chamber called Sala brutta, are diuers statuaes in the habits of Senators, erected to Paulo Spinola, to Eattista Gri∣maldo, and Ansidio Gri. S. C. On the West side without the wals are Pallaces of Gen∣tlemen, almost innumerable and in the highest part of the City, was the new Castle (E) most strongly fortified, which the Citizens demolished to preserue their liberty. A little lower and within the wals, is the new streete, vulgarly (F) La strada Nuona, lying from the West to the North-east, each house whereof is built with Kingly mag∣nificence, neither doe I thinke that any City in the world hath so faire a streete. These houses or rather Pallaces may be seene by strangers, for the Gentlemens seruants keep∣ing them; willingly shew them to any desiring that fauour, aswell in expectance of reward, as for the honour of their Master and Countrey. My selfe did see the Pallace of Giouan Battista d' Auria, the building whereof was very stately, and the garden not onely most pleasant, but adorned with statuaes and fountaines. And in one of the chambers were the Gentlemens Armes, whereof some were of pure siluer guilded o∣uer The City hath certaine inner gates, which alwaies stand open and shew that the circuit of the City is now much increased and vpon these gates are chaines of iron, for remembrance (as they say) of their liberty once lost.

The whole circuit of the City, excepting the Mola, is fiue miles; and saue that the inner Hauen strikes somewhat into the City, it seemeth almost of a round forme. No doubt the City is of great antiquity, which some say was built by Gianus King of Ita∣lie, and of him had the name; and that the Promontory 〈◊〉〈◊〉, was of old called the vineyard of Gianus. The monument in the Cathedrall Church witnesseth that this Ci∣ty flcrished among the old Cities of Italy, about 300. yeeres before Christs incarnation.

Others will haue the City named of a Latin word, as the gate of Italy. It is fortified toward the sea with all art, and towards the land aswell by nature as art, there being but one way to come to it, and that ouer high and steepe rockes. The streets are narrow, the Pallaces are stately built of marble, and the other houses of free stone, fiue or sixe stories high, and the windowes are glased, which is rare in Italy. The streetes are paued with flint, and the houses of the suburbs are almost as faire as within the City. Corals are fished in this sea towards Sardinia and Corsica Ilands, not farre distant, and the ounce thereof is here sold for three lires. Now in the very moneth of December, the markets were full of summer flowers, herbes, and fruits, whereof I shall speake more in the due place. It is prouerbially said of this City; Montagne senza legni, Mar' senza pesci, huomini senza fede, donne senza vergogna, Mori bianchi, Genoa superba: That is, Mountaines with∣out wood, Sea without fish, Men without faith, Weomen without shame, white Moores, Genoa the proud. In good earnest, they report that the Merchants being not bound by writing, make little accompt to breake their promise, and the French liberty of the Weomen makes the Italians iudge them without shame, and as Florence is called the faire for the building, so I thinke Genoa is called the proud.

The chaires called Seggioli, whereof I spake in the discription of Naples, are also in vse here, in which the Citizens of both sexes are carried vpon two Porters shoulders, through the streetes lying vpon the sides of hils, the chaires being couered with a cur∣taine drawne, and hauing glasse windowes, so as they may see all men, and themselues be vnseene. Besides, in regard of the narrow streetes, and the steepe mountaines on all sides, they vse horse litters here in stead of Coaches. The men in their feasting, dancing, and free conuersation, and the weomen in their apparell, come neerer to the French then any other Italians. Here I paid one reale by the day for my chamber, and dressing my meat, which I bought my selfe, all things being at good rate in the City, as in the Countrey. There is such store of fruits, as they giue a citron for a quatrine, and two Oranges for a quatrine; and to end in a word, my diet here was for the manner and price not much differing from the same at Pisa.

They accompt ninety miles from Genoa to Milan, which iourney I went on foot, willingly exposing my selfe to this trouble, partly to spare my purse in the bottome, partly to passe more safely in this disguise through the Dutchy of Milan, subiect to the Spaniards, who then had warres with the English. The first day after dinner, I walked all alone, seuen miles to Ponte Decimo, by the banke of a riuer betweene stony moun∣taines, but frequently inhabited. And I paid eight soldi for my supper on reckoning, and a cauellotto (that is foure bolinei) for my bed. The second day I went on foot ele∣uen miles, ascending all the way high mountaines, and tired with the difficulty of the iourney, onely refreshed with the hope of an easie discent from the mountaines: and being very hungry by the way, I chanced to meet with a begging Friar of the Order of Saint Francis, who hauing victuals in his bag, gaue me to eat, but would receiue no money for it; saying, it was against their rule to handle any money. Thence I walked seuen miles downe those mountaines, in the territory of Genoa to Gauidon, and foure miles more through a plaine and dirty way, in the Dutchy of Milan to Seraualle, where I paid foure cauellotti (that is sixteene bolinei) for my supper and my bed. The third day in the morning, I walked foureteene miles in a dirty way to Tortona, where I paid one soldo for tribute (as all passengers pay) and seuen soldi for my dinner vpon recko∣ning. Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty way fiue miles to Ponte Curon, and further in a way somewhat fairer fiue miles to Voghera. All this way in the Dutchy of Milan, was in a most fruitfull plaine of corne, with Elmes planted in the furrowes, and vines growing vpon them, and such is the way in all Lombardy, and to the very City of Pa∣duoa. At Voghera I paid three reali for my supper and bed.

And here by chance I sound an English Merchant in the Inne, who talking rashly, did voluntarily (without being examined whence he was) professe himselfe to be a Dutchman, and my selfe in disguised poore habit, sitting at the lower end of the table, and speaking to him in the Dutch language, he was forced for want of the language, to say that he was a Dutch-man, but borne vpon the confines of France; and knowing no

no other language but the French, whereupon I speaking to him in the French tongue, he had as little skill in that, as in the Dutch; so as I might perceiue that he dissembled his Countrey, and being not willing to presse him, as hauing beene my selfe often for∣ced in like sort to dissemble my Countrey, did forbeare to speake any more to him in the Dutch or French tongue, & we began to discourse in Italian, wherein he had spoken little before he vttered these words, Iome ne repentiua: that is, Irepented my selfe therof, whereas an Italian would haue said, Iome ne pentiua, by which fillable added by him, I presently knew he was an English man. Supper being ended, he perceiuing himselfe to haue beene thus pressed by a poore fellow, sitting at the lower end of the table, tooke me for a spie, and feared I should betray him, and presently went into the stable, where he commanded his seruant to saddle their horses, that they might ride all night towards Genoa. But I following him, and boldly speaking English to him, he was soone content to stay all night, and to take me in my homely apparell for his bedfellow.

Hauing passed this night merrily, I hired a horse the fourth day for foure cauellotti, and rode eleuen miles to Bastia, then I walked on foot seuen miles to Paula, and being * 5.4 afoote-man, I paid fiue foldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Po. This iourney hither∣to was in a dirty way, hauing plaine fields on both sides, tilled after the foresaid man∣ner of Lombordy and many rich pastures, which are rare in all other parts of Italy. En∣tering Paula I passed a stately bridge, built ouer the Riuer 〈◊〉〈◊〉, which runnes from the West to the East, and after sixe miles falleth into the Riuer Po. This bridge was two hundred walking prices long, and so broad as two carts might passe together, and was built of stone, and couered ouer the head with a roofe, with open aire on the sides, & supported with pillars. The City lies in length from the East to the West, and a new faire street diuides it in the middest, by the bredth from the South to the North. On the West side of this street are two market places, one greater then the other. In the lesse is a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 called Regia Sole, of mixt mettall, (vulgarly Dibronzo) which some write to haue beene made with art magicke, by the Emperour Anastasius, for his own image, and to haud beene placed by him vpon the pillar of the souldiers at Rauenna, where he kept his Court, and after Rauenna was taken by Charles the great, that this Image being to be carried into France, was by the way left here. Others will haue it the statua of the Emperour Antoninus Pias: for they are deceiued who thinke it the statua of Odoacer King of the Lombards, who hath another statua in this market place. On the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 West side of the foresaid new street towards the North-side, is the Castle which Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Milon built, and the same Dukes Library; but almost voide of Bookes, and in this Castle lies a Garison of Spaniards: Neere that is the Church of Saint 〈◊〉〈◊〉, in a Chappol whereof, is a stately Sepulcher, in which they say the bones of that Saint were laid; being brought thither out of the Iland Sardinia. And this sepulcher is of marble curiously engrauen, and worthy to be sought out and be∣held. There I did reade this inscription written in Latin vpon another sepulcher: The French King Francis the first being taken by Caesars Army neere Pauia, the foureteenth of Fe∣bru〈…〉〈…〉, among other Lords these were Lorayne Francis Duke of Lorayne, Richard de la Poole Englishman, and Duke of Suffolke, banished by his tyrant King Henry the 〈◊〉〈◊〉. At last Charles Parken of Morley, kinseman of the said Richard, banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by Queene Elizabeth, and made Bishop hereby the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Phillip King of Spaine, ded out of his small meanes erect this Monument to him, &c. In a Cloyster of the same Church, is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parken Bishop, decensed in the yeere 〈◊〉〈◊〉. There is another Monument of 〈◊〉〈◊〉, King of Lombardy; and another of the Bishop 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉, with this inscription in Latin; Most 〈◊〉〈◊〉 in the Greeke and Latin langues, who being Consull, was sent hither into bamshment. And with these verses,

〈1 line〉〈1 line〉 〈1 line〉〈1 line〉 Hath Death 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ought? my goodnes mounts the Skies, Great is my same, my worke liues in mens eyes.

On the East side of the saide new streete, and towardes the North, lies the

Church of Saint Francis, where is a monument of Baldus the Ciuill Lawyer, and they shew his head of an extraordinarie bignesse. Without the walles of the Citie on the North side, is a piece of ground of some twentie miles circuit, compasted with a wall in many places broken downe, vulgarly called Il Barco, that is, the Park which Iohn Galia∣cius Duke of Milan walled in to keepe fallow Deare, Hares, and Conies: but at this day it is diuided into Pastures and plowed fieldes. On the furthest side of this Parke from the City, is the place where the French King, Francis the first, was taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles the fifth. Not farre thence is the Monastery of the Carthusians, called la Certosa, where the building of the Church, the stones of Marble, the engrauing, the top couered with Leade, part of the great Altar of Alablaster (highly valued), the Sepulcher of Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Millan, and the reuenew of the Church exceeding three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere, deserue admirati∣on. The buildings of the Citie are of bricke, and seeme to be of great antiquitie. The Emperour Charles the fourth in the yeere 1361, at the instance of Galiacius the second, gaue this Citie the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie. The King of Spaine permits lewes to dwell here: but they may not stay in Milan aboue twentie foure houres. This Citie was the seate of the Kings of Lombardy, whose old Castle is to bee seene neere the Church of Saint Michael. After it was subiect to the Kings of Italy, and the Berengarij being ouercome, it was subiect to the Emperour Otho the first, by right of his wife, and successiuely to the Emperours, with some shew of a free Citie, which freedome that they might more fully attaine, they willingly yeelded themselues in the yeere 254 to the Archbishop of Rauenna. After they were subiect to vsurping Citizens, whom the Vicounts of Milan expelled, and so ioyned this Citie to their State, which together with the Dukedome of Milan came to the Spaniards hands, in the time of the Em∣perour Charles the fifth. I lodged here in a faire Inne, but common to the baser fort, the Hostesse whereof was a Masculine woman, and by the night letting in Ruffines to drinke, I was not a little affraid of some violence to bee offered mee in my chamber; whereupon I firmely resolued with my selfe, to lodge euer after in the best Inne, and of best fame, especially in Lombardy, infamous for murthers, and here I paied for my sup∣per and my bed three reali.

I went on foote from Pauia, going forth at the Nothwest Gate twenty miles through * 5.5 rich Pastures, to Milan, called la grande, that is, The great, of the large circuit thereof. The Citie hath the name of Olanus, a Tuscane Captaine; or the Latin word media lana, that is, Halfe wooll, of those kinde of stuffes made in the Citie. It is large, populous, and very rich, seated in a Plaine (as all Lombardy lies) and that most firtile, and by the commoditie of a little Riuer brought to the Citie by the French, and almost compas∣sing the same, it aboundeth also with forraine Merchandise. Of old it was the seate of many Roman Emperours: but the Historie of the Citie being contained in the Histo∣rie of Italy, I will onely remember, that the Archbishop thereof long time challenged the Primacie in the Italian Church, neuer acknowledging the Bishop of Rome for supe∣riour; and that he crowned the Emperour with a Crowne of Iron, after the people of Milan had approued him: That the King of the Ostrogothes had the same Crowne set vpon his head after his victorie, which Crowne (they say) was giuen, in signe that the Empire and the command of Milan were to be won by Iron. That the Citizens of Mi∣lan were often Rebels to the Emperours. That the Vicounts made vicarij of the Citie, did by little and little subiect the Territorie, and the Citie with title of Duke of Milan. That the Family of Vicounts being extinct in Duke Philip about the yeere 1447, the Dukes of Orleance by right of their Mother, and Francis Sforza by the right of his wife, chalenged the inheritance of the Dukedome: but the Emperour thought the same to bee fallen backe to his right. That Francis Sforza was by the people first made Captaine of their forces, & then chosen Duke. That the French King Francis the first, defending the right of the Dukes of Orleans, cast Sforza out of the Dukedome in the yeere 1449. That the Emperor Charles the sift, casting out the French in the vere 1521, first restored Sforza to the Dukedome, with some restraint of his power; but he being dead, inuaded the Dukedom himself, wherupon after many contentions & battels, it came to his suc∣cessours

the Kings of Spaine, of the family of Austria, to whom at this day it is subject.

The Citie is of a round for me, and hath nine gates, the building shewes antiquitie, and the houses are of bricke and low built excepting some stately Pallaces (such as is that of the Duke of Terra Noua) the streetes are broad, and the pauement of bricke, rai∣sed in the middest with broad stones.

When I came to the Citie on foote, I made offer to enter at the Gate called Genese on the South side: but the Guard refused me as a foot-man to pasle into the Citie; and lest by my importunitie I should haue made them looke more narrowly into my qualitie, (they being commonly expert men, to find out any disguised person), I went backe into the Suburbes, as it I would lodge there; but as soone as I was out of sight, I wal∣ked further towards the East, compaising a great Fen, and so ioyning my selfe to some Citizens, returning from walking in the fieldes, I entered with them into the Citie, by the next Gate on the same South side, which Gate is called Lodouico, and was only kept by one souldier. A little Brooke within the walles compasseth the very center of the Citie circularly; beyond which Brooke, on the North-side within the walles, not farre from the Gate Zobia, is a large Meadow, wherein are no houses: for there is the most strong Castle seated in a Plaine, and kept by a Spanish Garrison, into which no French∣man may enter. Therefore I hauing gotten so difficultly into the City, restrained my curiositie from attempting to view this Castle, lest I should rashly expose my selfe to great danger. Further towards the North without the Gate Renza, is a large Hospitall for those that are sicke of the plague, hauing more chimnies (as they say) then the yeere hath dayes. Not tarre from the Gate Genese, is the Church of S. Laurence, which os old was dedicated to Hercules by the Emperour Maximinianus Erculeus buried in the same; and it hath a rare Image of the Virgin Marie, and 16 stately Marble Pillars, and the building is Magnificent. The Emperour Theodosius is said to haue giuen to S. Ambrose Archbishop of Milan, one of the nailes wherewith Christ was fastened to the Crosse, and the brasen Serpent that Moses lift vp in the Desert (the Image of which Serpent was of mixt mettall, vulgarly called di bronzo), and they say, that S. Ambrose left these reliques in the Churches of S. Tccla and of S. Ambrose; and the Altar vnder which the body of S. Ambrose lies, is valued at 28000 Crownes. In the Church Delle Gratte, be∣longing to the Bene dictine Friers, not farre from the Gate Zobia, is a stately Throne, and vnder it an vnperfected monumēt, which Duke Lodouico Sforza purposed to haue built for himselfe: but the French cast him out of his Dukedome, and he died in France. And in this Monastery is a notable Library, and in the place where the Friers eate, the supper of our Lord is painted with wonderfull art. In the little Chappell of S. Gottard, is the sepulcher of that Saint, whose name the mountaine of the Alpes doth beare, which is most famous for the difficult passage. The great & stately Cathedrall Church called Il Domo, is built all of white marble, and supported with some 100, marble pil∣lars, in which at this day they sing the masse of S. Ambrose, differing from the Roman Masse, and onely agreeing therewith in the words of consecration.

From Milan to Cremona are accounted 52 miles, and I making short stay at Milan, for the danger of my abode there, hired a horse to Cremona for a Crowne of gold wanting 8 soldi, and riding out at the Roman Gate, and bearing the Carrier company, of whom I hired my horse, rode 12 miles the first day after dinner to Marignano, through a plaine Country of rich pastures, where I paied 3 reali for my supper. The second day I rode 30 miles to the Castle Pizighitone, through like rich Pastures, hauing by the way paid 24 soldi for my dinner, and neere my iournies end 3 soldi for my passage ouer the Ri∣uer Adda, and at this Castle 1 paied 30 soldi for my Supper. The French King Francis the first, taken prisoner by the Emperour, in the yeere 1525, was for a good space kept with much honour in the tower of this Castle. The third day in the morning 1 rode ten miles to Cremoná. The Family Pallauicini (at this day chiefe in the City) when the Em∣pire * 5.6 of Rome decaied, made themselues Lords of this Citie, whom Galeatius Vi∣count of Milan subdued, and vnited the City to the State of Milan, and so by the said Dukedome subdued by the Spaniards, it came into their subiection. The Cardinall Francis Sfondrato, and Eusebius the writer of the Ecclesiasticall Historie,

were borne in this Citie. The forme of the City seemes very like to a Cardinals Hat with broad brimes, and it is seated in a Plaine, one mile distant from the Riuer Po. Wee entred this Citie by the narrow part lying towards Milan, and there is a most strong Fort built to keepe the Citizens in awe, and kept by a Spanish Gari∣son, and seated in a plaine field, wherein are no other buildings but the Fort it selfe. From hence going to the opposite & broader part of the Citie, is a large and very faire Market place, neare which is a Tower or Steeple, of such height and beautie, as the Ita∣lians prouerbially say, One Peter at Rome; one Hauen at Ancona; one Tower at Cremo∣na; thereby noting the excellencie. This Tower is built of bricke, and hath foure hun∣dred ninetie and two staires in the ascent. Neare the same is a statua of a Giant, who, they say, was ouercome by Hercules, the founder of the Citie; and the Citizens keepe a feast once a yeere, at which time with many ceremonies they adorne this statua with rich robes. Neere this Tower and Market place, lies the stately Cathedrall Church, and the fairest and richest Monastery is that of Saint Dominick. This Citie hath many stately Pallaces, and the streetes thereof are broad and very pleasant. Here I payed thirtie three soldi (that is the fourth part of a Ducaton) for my supper.

From hence to Mantua are fortie fiue miles, whether I hired a horse for fiue lires: The first day we rode twentie two miles, where going out of the Dutchie of Milan, and passing the Riuer Oye, wee entered the Dutchie of Mantua, and then rode nine miles to Mercaria. And by the way we passed the pleasant Castle, or rather Citie cal∣led Bozilia, belonging to Iulius Gonzaga, being of the Family of the Dukes of Man∣tua; which Castle was built with open cloisters or arches toward the streete, vnder which the passengers walke drie in the greatest raine, and such are the buildings of the Cities in this Dukedome, and in many neighbour places. By the way also in a solitary Inne I paid fifteene soldi for my dinner, and at Mercaria I payed thirtie foure soldi for my supper.

The second day we rode fourteene miles to Mantua through most fruitfull fieldes, * 5.7 tilled after the manner of Lombardy, and in a most durtie highway. The Histories re∣port, that this Citie had the name of Manto, the daughter of Tyresias. It is seated in the middest of Fennes or Lakes, made by the Riuer Mencius. The buildings are partly of Brick, partly of Free stone, and the streetes are large and cleane. The forme of this Ci∣tie is round, saue that the foresaid Lakes on the North and East-sides enter into the Citie, in the forme of an halfe Moone. Comming from Cremona I entred Mantua on the West side, by the Gate Praedella, where is a faire streete called Il Borgo. On the same side towards the South, is the Gate Pistrella, which leades to the Dukes stately Pallace called Teye, seated some mile out of the Citie, and compassed with water, where in the Giants Chamber I did see most faire pictures, and it is built in a quadrangle onely two stories high, with a low roofe, after the manner of the building of Italy. On the South∣side is the Gate of 〈◊〉〈◊〉, whence the way lies by the banke of the Lake to a Village called Petula, two miles distant from the Citie, in which, they say, that the famous Poet Virgil was borne, and shew the house where his parents dwelt. Partly on the North, and partly on the East side, the Citie is compassed with Lakes, which vsually are couered with infinite number of water foule; and from these Lakes there is a passage into the Riuer Po, and so by water to Venice. On the North-East side is the Gate of S. George, whence betweene the two Lakes is a causey two hundred walking paces long, and be∣yond it a bridge of stone fiue hundred paces long, like to a faire gallery, couered ouer the head, and supported with bricke pillars, hauing open windowes, two paces distant one from the other, then passing a draw-bridge, you come to another causey betweene the said two Lakes, which causey is two hundred forty walking paces long, before you come to firme land. On the East side of the said bridge, and within the Citie, the Dukes stately Pallace lies vpon the Lake, and to this Pallace ioyneth the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, where also is a pleasant Market-place. There lie the Dukes stables, and in one of them were some hundred horses for the saddle, and in the other as many for the Coach, and he hath a third stable without the Gates, wherein is the like number of young Colts. On the North-side, at the furthest banke of the Lake, is one onely Gate,

and a like bridge to passe into the Suburbes, and there lics the way to the chiefe Pallace of the Duke, some few miles distant from the Citie, called 〈◊〉〈◊〉, the building whereof is onely two stories hic, with a low roofe, and the chiefe chambers were hung with guilded leather, after the Italian maner, three skins whereof were commonly sold for a Crowne, and the Gardens of this Pallace were exceeding pleasant. In the middest of the Citie Mantua is a large Market place, wherein the Iewes haue their shops, and sell all manner of wares, for all trafficke is in their hands, growing rich by the pouertie of the Citizens; and being so much fauoured by the Duke, as they dwell not in any seue∣rall part of the Citie, but where they lift, and in the very Market-place; neither are they forced (as in other parts of Italy) to weare yellow or red caps, whereby they may bee knowne, but onely a little piece of yellow cloth on the left side of their cloakes, so as they can hardly be distinguished from Christians, especially in their shops, where they weare no cloakes. Such be the priuiledges which the Iewes haue gotten by bribing (es∣pecially in the Dutchéy of Sauoy) through the vnsatiable auarice of our Christian Prin∣ces. Neere this Market-place is the large Church of Saint Andrew, and the Senate∣house, in which they shew two statuaes of Cupid (whereof one is ancient, and of much greater value then the other), and a very long Vnicornes horne, and a paire of Organs of Aliblaster, besides Iewels, and vessels of gold and siluer. Not farrethence is the third Market-place of Iustice. To conclude, at the gate of Saint Francis Church is the head of Virgil, which the Neapolitans say (as in the description of that Citie I formerly said) was stolne from the Sepulcher of Virgil, vpon the Mount Pausilip. In the Pallace called dellaragione, is another statua of Virgil, sitting at a Table of brasse, as if hee were writing, and crowned with Laurell. I said formerly, that there is a passage from the Lakes into the Riuer Po, and so by water to Venice, and the Duke, to take his pleasure vpon the water, hath a baot called Bucentoro, because it will beare some two hundred, and it is built in the vpper part like a banqueting house, hauing fiue roomes (with gla∣sed windowes) wherein the Duke and his Traine doe sit; and these roomes are sup∣ported vpon a boat, the Mariners that row the same, sitting vnder the said roomes, the first and largest roome whereof was fifteene walking paces long, with benches on both sides; the second was eight paces long, the third fiue, and the fourth likewise fiue paces long; the fifth was a Gallerie ouer the other roomes fortie paces long, and open, to which they mounted by staires out of the first roome. And this boate doth not one∣ly much differ from our Kings barges, aswell for the bignesse as the rich furniture, but also is flat in the bottome, the waters being still and calme on which it passeth. These roomes according to occasions haue more or lesse rich hangings, when the Duke ei∣ther goeth out to disport himself, or when he takes any iourny therin, (as oft he doth.)

It is vnlawfull to weare a sword without licence of the Magistrate, either at Milan, Cremona, Mantua, or almost in any Citie of Italy; onely at Venice and Paduoa, and the Cities of that State, strangers may weare Swords, and onely the wearing of Pistols or short gunnes is forbidden. At Mantua I paied three reali each meale, and being to de∣part thence. I was forced to take a Bill of the Customers, by which they signifie to the Guard at the gate, whether the passenger be to goe on horseback, on foote, or by coach, and what tribute he is to pay; for which Bill a footeman paies 3. soldi, another passen∣ger six. Thus the Princes of italy hauing small Territories, doe not onely burthen their subiects with taxes, but all strangers, & strictly take account from the exacters therof.

Being to goe from hence to Paduoa, we went out of the gate Saint Ceorge, and I hi∣red a horse from Mantua to the Castle Este for eleuen lires. The first day wee passed by a Forte of the Venetians most strongly fortified vpon the consines of that State, which Fort lies vpon the Riuer Athesis, and is called Lignaco, and rode some twenty miles through a Plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy to Monteguiara, where I paied for∣tie soldi, (that is two lires) for my supper. The next morning I rode nine miles to the Castle Este, whence is the Family of the Dukes of Ferraria, long flourishing, but now extinct. From thence I passed by boate 15 miles to Paduoa, and paied 22 soldi for my * 5.8 passage. This day when I returned to Paduoa, was the 14 of December, after the new stile, in the yeere 1594, which city & the rate of vittles there, I haue formerly described,

CHAP. IIII. Of the Sopulcher of Petrarch at Arqua. Of my iourney to Vicenza, Verona, Brescia, and Bergnmo, in Italy), then passing the Alpes, to Chur, Zurech, Solothurn, Geneua, and (in my returne thence) to Berna (in Sweitzerland), thence to Strasburg (in Germany), and to Chalon, to Paris, to Roan, and to Diepe (in France), and finally of my passagety 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Land, to London (in England).

WHilest I expected the commoditie of the Spring for my iourney home-wards, I went to Venice to receiue money there, and retaining a sufficient proportion in my hands, I thought to make ouer the rest to Paris by bills of exchange, but France hauing been now long wasted with ciuill war, I could not finde one Merchant of Venice, who had any the least Traffick at Paris. Therefore persisting still in my ob∣stinate purpose to returne by France, I thought at least to procure the change of this money to Geneua: And so only out of my desire to see the Citie of Geneua, I resolued againe to passe ouer the Alpes into Sweitzerland, though I had formerly seene those Townes. Then I bought an Hungarian horse for twentie Crownes of a Dutch Gentleman newly ariued in these parts. And while I prepared all things necessary for my iourney, and expected a sit season of the yeere, it came in my minde to see the Monument not farre distant of the famous Poet Francis Petrarch, and being willing to giue my horse rest, I went on foot with certaine Dutch Gentlemen thirteene miles to Arqua. By the way we did see a most faire Monastery Praia, and the Baths of Abano, the water wher∣of doth boile with such heate, as it would fetch off the skinne being touched.

At Arqua is the sepulcher of Fetrarch, of red marble spotted, and it hath this inscrip∣tion in Latin:

To the worthy man F. P. a Laureat Poet, his sonne in Law Francis Lus-debro Sauo of Milan, for their inward conuersation, loue, affinitte and his succession, left this memory. Vnder that followed these verses:

Frigida Francisci lapis hic tegit ossa Petrarchae, Suscipe virgo parens animam, sate virgine parce, Fessaque iam terris, caeli requiescat in Arce. This stone doth Francis Petrarches bones inclose, Take my soule Virgin, spare it Virgins sonne, Tired on earth in heauen let it repose.

Then followed letters raced out.

MCCC 〈◊〉〈◊〉 XX. XVIIII.

Then followed the third inscription in Latin, with his Image.

To Francis Petrarch, Paulus Valdezucus admiring his Poems, and succeeding him in the possession of his house and fields, made this Image in the yeere MDXCVII. the Ides of September.

There is also a Fountaine, vulgarly called the Fountaine of Petrarch, vpon which these verses are written.

Fonti numen inest, hospes venerare liquorem, Vnde bihens cecinit digna Petrarcha Deis. Some god dwells here, worship the sacred Spring, Whence Petrarch drinking, heauenly Rimes did sing.

Petrarch dwelt at Arqua, and here in the same house wherein they say he dwelt, the hi∣storie of Petrarches life is painted, where the owner of the house shewed vs some house∣hold stuffe belonging to him, and the very skinne of a Cat he loued, which they haue dried, and still keepe. Here I did see his Studie, (a pleasant roome, especially for the sweet prospect) and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die. No situation can be imagined more pleasant, then that of Arqua, lying in the mouth of Mountaines

abounding with Oliue trees, and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides. This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes, or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua, famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Army. But it is a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils, which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified.

Vpon Friday the third day of March (after the new stile) in the beginning of the yeere 1593, according to the Italians (beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary) of the * 5.9 end of the yeere 1594, according to the English (beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March) I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey. And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza, through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy (where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne, and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes, which support the vines; so that one field giues bread, wine, and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way, that I might see a wonderfull Caue, and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza, in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza. The Caue was large, and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers. The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes; because there were certaine mils, which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues, and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air. And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written:

AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉〈◊〉 cere regnat. AEolus here in the winds prison raignes:

The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke: but the buil∣ding * 5.10 howsoeuer it be very stately, is not like to that of other Cities in these parts, in this one point, namely, that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes, and being supported with arches, giueth the passengers shelter from raine. Here I did see a Theater for Playes, which was little, but very faire and pleasant. In the market place there is a stately Pallace, and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars, is fairely built, and hath a rich Library; and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned: The Citie is subiect to the Venetians, and is seated in a plaine, hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides. Here I paid forty soldi for my supper, and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates, called quarterolli, and for the stable (so they call hay straw and the stable roome, and so I will hereafter call it) I paid twenty soldi. Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi, for a foote-man that had attended me hither, and was to returne to Paduoa.

From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona, in a most pleasant plaine (tilled after the * 5.11 manner of Lombardy) lying on my left hand towards Italy, farther then I could see, and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes, abounding with vines, growing low vpon hort stakes, and yeelding rich wines. I entered Verona on the East side, by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono. They write that the City was of old called Berona, by the name of the Founder thereof; but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans, and had the name of the Family Vera, and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani. This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute, the necke whereof lies towards the West, on which side the Riuer Athesis (running towards the East) doth not only compasse the City, but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute, so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer. The bankes of Athesis (vulgarly called 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Adice) are ioined together with three bridges of stone, and one of marble, and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater, and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke, and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine, and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils, rising towards the distant mountaines. It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes, and supported with Arches to auoid raine, as other Cities are in those parts: but the building of the houses is state∣ly, and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity, as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof; and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses, as the manner is in strong Townes. It hath a pure aire, and is ennobled

by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens, who are indued with a chearefull countenance, magnificent mindes, and much inclined to all good li∣terature.

Verona was a free City vnder the Empire, about the yeere 1155, till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City, about the yeere 1259, did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City, and made themselues Lords ouer it. At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew (partner with him of that Lordship) about the yeere 1381, was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius, the first Duke of Milan, and he being dead, William Scaliger, helped by Francis Carrariensis, droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City, in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison, and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted, as scarce∣ly any one was to be found of that name; the Venetians tooke occasion by this de∣testable treason of the said Francis, to make the City subiect to them: but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere, 1509, by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian, the City became subiect to the said Emperour, till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517, vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth, in great aboundance of all things.

On the North-side of the City without the wals, is the mountaine Baldo, hang∣ing ouer the City, and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes, and vpon the side of this mountaine, within the wals, are no buildings, but onely a strong Fort.

On the south side lies the way to Mantua (23 miles distant,) and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine, fiue miles long, and ennobled with many skirmishes, battels, and victories. In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri, and Odoacer King of the Heruli (who destroied the Westerne Empire) was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes, and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria, was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy, then possessing Italy. Vpon the same South side within the wals, is a faire market place, and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour (which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta.) And necre the wals on this side, lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater, at this day little ruined, vulgarly called Harena, and built by Luc: Flaminius, (though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius.) It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy, and the outside thereof is of Marble, and the inner side with all the seates, is of bricke. It is of an ouall forme, and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long, and forty eight broade, where the lowest seates are most narrow, whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees (howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees), and they so arise, as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower. And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside, vnder the said increase of the inner circuit, haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth, which is to be ad∣ded to make the full breadth of the inside. It hath eighteene gates, and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes, and the seates within the same, are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders, each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate. Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument. Alboinus King of the Lombards, was killed by his wife at Verona. In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin, sonne to Charles the Great, and betweene this Monastery and the next Church, in a Church yard vnder the ground, is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta.

Barengarius King of Italy, was killed at Verona; and this City braggeth of two fa∣mous Citizens, namely, the old Poet Catullus, and Guarinus, a late writer. The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull, abounding with all necessaries for life, and more specially with rich Wines, particularly the Retian wine, (much prai∣sed by Pliny, and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill), which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome. It is

of a red colour and sweet, and howsoeuer it seemes thicke, more fit to be eaten then drunke, yet it is of a most pleasant taste. The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes, and other good fish: besides this territory yeelds very good marble. Here I paid forty soldi for my supper, and sixteene soldi for the stable, (that is for hay and straw) and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates. Certaine Gentle∣men bearing me company from Paduoa to this City, and being to returne thither, did here each of them hire a horse, for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza, where they were to pay for their horse meat.

From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera, built by the old Lords of Verona, and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus. vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo, where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge: but when I shewed them my Matricula, that is, a paper, witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa, they dismissed me as free of all Tributes. And in like sort by the same writing, I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi, and at Verona from paying eight soldi. I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village, seated vpon the same Lake, famous for the pleasant territory, and the aboundance of good fish: and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner, and eight soldi for my horse meat. All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine, ri∣sing still higher with faire distances, so as the ascent could hardly be seene.

After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia, which City flourished vnder thelold * 5.12 Emperours of Italy, then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy, and they being ouercome, to Charles the Great, and French Gouernours; then to the We∣sterne Emperours of Germany, and to the Italian family of the Berengarij. And it obtai∣ned of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire, till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini, the Scaligeri, a family of the same City, made themselues Lords thereof, whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Ci∣tie: and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City, and would not be in∣duced to ease the same of his great impositions, they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509, to the French King, who had defeated the Venetian Army. Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan, the Citie was giuen into the Empe∣rours hands; whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth, restored the same to the French King Francis the first, who likewise in the yeere 1517, gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians. The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia, hath mines of Iron and brasse, and I thinke so many Castles, Villages, and Houses, so little distant the one from the other, can hardly be found else where. The Brooke Garza runs through the City, which is of a round forme, and is seated for the most part in a plaine, and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine, where a Tower is built, which hath many houses adioining, and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels, who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same, till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice. The Cities building is of bricke, the streetes are large, and are paued with flint. Boniface Bembus, was a Citizen of Brescia, and the Brescians; as also the Citizens of Bergamo, are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords, then the other Italians farther distant from France, and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations, and con∣uerse with the French liberty, without any offence to their husbands, which other Italians would neuer indure. Here I paid forty soldi for my supper, and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable.

From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo: and as the territories in this part of * 5.13 Italy (lying vpon the South sunne, which beats vpon the sides of the hils and moun∣taines, with great reflection of heat, and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East, by the interposition of the Alpes) are singularly fruit∣full and pleasant; so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney, they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua, yeelding plenty of corne, and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands, which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes, as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye. And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant, being tilled in like sort; and towards my iournies end, yeelding most large and rich pastures. The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire

was extinct, first obeyed the Lombards, then the French; and following the fortune of Brescia, was sometimes subiect to the Vicounts of Milan, and other Princes (inua∣ding their liberty which they had vnder the Empire) and other times was subdued by diuers of their owne Citizens, and being oppressed by the Dukes of Milan, they yeel∣ded themselues in the yeere 1428, to the Venetians, whose Army being deicated the next yeere by the French, this City likewise submitted it selfe to them, and they being cast out of Italy, it was subiected to the Sfortian Family, Dukes of Milan, and they be∣ing extinct, and the Emperour and French King making warre for the Dukedeme of Milan, this City in the yeere 1516, returned vnder the power of the Venetians, who at this day enioy the same in peace.

The City is seated vpon a mountaine, vpon the south-side whereof a Fort is built, and vnder the mountaine towards the East, are two large suburbs, full of faire houses and Churches. Neere the market place in the Church of Saint Mary, is a stately sepul∣cher of marble, and in the monastery of the preaching Friars, is a rich Library. These Citizens speake the Italian tongue, but more rudely then any other of Italy. Here I paid foure lires for my supper and horse-meat, and twelue soldi for my breakefast.

From hence I tooke not the right way to Geneua, but declined to the way of Chur, as∣well because it was more safe from robbery, as to be freed from all dangers, by vente∣ring againe to passe through the state of Milan. When I came from Paduoa, I was not curious to find out companions for this my long iourney, aswell because I hoped to find some by the way, as for that I being now vsed to conuerse with any Christian strangers, little cared to be solitary by the way: but deceiued of this my hope to find company, I passed all alone, not so much as accompanied with a foote-man, ouer the high Alpes, which I thinke very few haue done besides my selfe.

From Bergamo I rode nine miles to Trescher, where I first entered the mouth of the Alpes, and thence I rode nineteen miles to Louer, passing by many very pleasant lakes, and by the way I paid sixteene gagetti, that is, thirty two soldi for foure horse shooes. Being to passe from hence ouer the steepe and snowy Alpes, I caused my horse to bee shod with eight sharpe and three blunt nailes, for which I paid sixe soldi, and for my supper twenty eight, and for three measures of oates twenty foure, and for the stable eighteene soldi. The second day I rode thirty two miles to the village Edoll, through high mountaines, and there I paid three lires for my supper and horse-meat. The third day in the morning I rode ten miles to a village Auryga, ouer a most high and steepe mountaine of the same name; and now I beganne to freeze, for cold, though before I entered the Alpes, I could hardly indure the heat of the Clime.

Hence I went forward one mile to a little Brooke, which diuideth the territory of the Vene: ians, and the Grysons (which 〈◊〉〈◊〉 free people confederate with the Can∣tons of Sweitzerland), and fiue miles further to Villa, where I paid twenty sixe soldi of Venice for my dinner and horse-meat; and it being now the time of Lent, they gaue vs flesh to eat, whereof I was glad as of a dainty I could not get in Italy, neither would they gratifie the Italians their neighbours, in prouiding any thing else for them; so as they were forced to eat flesh without any scruple of conscience, which this people of the reformed religion would little haue regarded. After dinner I rode ten miles to Pos∣chiano, through a most pleasant valley, compassed on all sides with mountaines, where I paid two berlinghotti (or two lyres of Venice) for my supper and breakefast, (for all passengers vse to breake their fast in going ouer the Alpes) and one Berlinghotto for fiue measures of oates, and for the stable. The fourth day in the morning for twelue miles I ascended the mountaine Berlina, & after rode thirteen miles to Lasagna, through a vally couered with snow; where I paid foure batzen for my supper, and as much for my breakefast, and six batzen for two measures of oates, and two batzen for hay, straw, and stable roome.

I formerly said that I bought a horse at Paduoa, and he being a stoned horse, & those of the territory of Venice and all Lombardy vsing to ride vpon Mares, which they put in the same stable with horses, it hapened at Verona, that the Hostler let my horse loose, that the rascall might make himselfe sport with his couering of the mares, which for

that time I knew not, but after manifestly found, since euer after hee was (contrary to custome) very troublesome to me, with neighing and coruetting, when soeuer 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉 by any mares. And in this daies iourny (as when soeuer I passed the narrow waies of steepe mountaines) he was most troublesome to me: so as this people of the Alpes commonly vsing Mares for their carriages, whensoeuer I met them, I was sorced not without danger to light from my horse, and though I held him by the bridle, yet he was so fierce, as I could hardly keepe him from falling down most steepe mountaines, or from being drowned in the snow, which made me repent the buying of him, though otherwise he was richly worth my money.

The buildings of the Grisons are of free stone, but low; and for three parts of the yeere, the houses are couered with snow, and the windowes thereof are glased & large, and for three parts of the yeere they onely open a little quarry of glasse, and presently shut it againe: and all the windowes for the most part are continually couered with windowes of wood, lest the heat of the stoaue should goe out, or any cold enter into the same.

The fifth day in the morning I rode twenty foure Italian miles, (which the Grisons accompt foure miles) to the Towne Lanzi, and hauing passed three high mountaines, and after entring into a plaine, vpon the next ascent of the mountaines, I might first discerne the opening of them towards the North, and then began to discend the Alpes into Germany. In this passage of the Alpes, I did many times obserue mountaines of snow to fal from the high mountaines into the vallies, with such noise as if it had thun∣dered: and this noise many times preserues passengers from being ouer whelmed with the same, falling many times into the very high waies.

Out of the wood neere Lanzi, in the twilight of the euening; I did heare more then a hundred Woolues howling, and because it was towards night, I had hired a Coun∣trey Churle to guide me vnto the Towne, who trembled for feare, and desired me to make ready my Carbiner to shoot at them: for hee said nothing terrified them more then the smell of powder; I wished him to be of good cheare, because the Woolues seemed busie about a prey, and the Towne was neere at hand, promising that I would not forsake him, but if need were, let him ride behind me: but feare giuing him wings, so as he went as fast as my horse could trot; within short space we came to Lanzi, where I paid sixteene batzen for my supper, breakefast, and horse-meat.

The sixth day in the morning I rode fifteene Italian miles, (which the Grysons call two miles) to Chur (a City, and the seat of a Bishop) through little mountaines couered with snow. The head of the Riuer Rheine is distant from this City as farre as a footman may goe in halfe an houre; and it lies towards the south. The City lieth in length from the Church on the North-side, towards the South, and hauing spent an houre in viewing the same, I rode further foure miles of Sweitzerland, through mountaines co∣uered with snow, to Walstat; where I paid fiue batzen for my supper, and (to gratifie my Dutch consorts) foure batzen for drinke after supper, vulgarly called Schlaffdrunke, that is, the sleeping cup, and three batzen for my horse-meat. The seuenth day in the mor∣ning I passed two miles, (I meane alwaies the miles of the Countrey) by boat vpon the Lake Walsea (that is the walled sea, because it is compassed with mountaines) and I rode two most long miles more, ouer hils to the little City Rabesuele, and for the passage of my selfe and my horse ouer the Lake. I paid seuen batzen, and for oates for my horse (while I expected consorts) I paid three creitzers. The foresaid little City, is confede∣rate with the Sweitzar Cantons; and here I paid eighteene batzen for my supper, with extraordinary fare, and my breakfast and horse-meat. The eight day in the morning, after I had ridden foure houres space (for the Sweitzers miles are so long, and of so vn∣certaine measure, as they vse to measure their iournies by houres riding, not by miles); I wondered to heare that we had ridden but one mile. Our way was through pleasant hils planted with vines, growing vpon short stakes, as the Dutch vse to plant them. Here we dined in a village, and throughout all this territory I paied about seuen batzen a meale. After dinner hauing in three houres ridden three miles, my horse weary of this long iourney without so much as a daies rest, beganne to faint, so as I was forced

in a village to giue him some two houres rest, and some prouender; and my way hither∣to was through pleasant hils, in like sort planted with vines on my right hand towards the East, and by the side of the Lake Zurechzea, on the left hand towards the West. And the pleasantnesse of this Village seated among hilles planted with Vines on the East side of the said Lake, made me as willing as my horse to rest there. The same eue∣ning I rode further one mile to Zurech, which city I formerly described in my former passage through Sweitzerland.

I formerly said, that for the vnpossibilitie to exchange my money from Venice to Pa∣ris, I was forced to exchange the same to Geneua. For which cause, and out of my de∣sire to view that Citie, famous for reformation of Religion, after some few daies I took my iourney thither, turning out of my high way. The first day in the morning, through a way most pleasant for the variety of Plaines, Hilles, Orchards, Woods, and Gardens, (wherein I passed by an ancient Castle of the Counts of Habspurg), I rode in eight howers space to a Village, where I lodged, and payed a franke and a halfe (French mo∣ney) for my supper and horse-meate. The second day in the morning, through a plaine Heath, Woods, and hilly ground for pasture, I rode in foure houres space to a Vil∣lage, and there (as in the rest of this iourney), I payed about seuen batzen of Dutch money for a meale.

After dinner through like way, I rode in three houres space to Solothurn an ancient Citie, and one of the Sweitzers Cantons, called in Latin Solidurum, and it hath the * 5.14 name in both tongues, as the Tower of the Sunne, or as consisting onely of Towers, whereof there be many. One Tower thereof is of great antiquitie, and vpon it these verses in Latin are written:

Ex this nihil est Sollduro antiqi ius vno Exceptis Treueris quarum ego aicta soror. What's older mongst the Celts then Solidure. Nothing but Treir: whose sister Iam sure:

They will haue this Citie built in the time of the Patriarke Abraham.

The third day in the morning I rode in foure houres space to Arberg, by the side of a great Riuer called Ar, passing twice ouer it by two bridges. After dinner I rode in foure houres space to Morton, through pleasant miles of Corne and Woods, and Pastures, and by the side of the Lake Mortonzra. Not farre hence Charle, Duke of Burgunay was defeated by the Sweitzers in the yeere 1476, and there in a field lie the bones of the soul∣diers there killed. The Burgundians were thrice beaten in one day, and here in the last battell Duke Charles also was killed. The fourth day in the morning I rode in three houres to Bitterline, through fruitfull Corne fieldes and pastures, and after dinner in foure houres space I rode to Milden, and about the midst of the way did see the ruines of the ancient Citie Auenza, or Auenticum, which Iulius Caesar vtterly raced, and Corne was now sowed within the old circuit of the Citie, whereof no memory remained, but one ruinous tower and a statua: but they say, that the Husbandmen tilling the ground, doe many times dig vp old Roman coines of siluer and gold: Not farre thence towards the West, lie the snowy Mountaines, which diuide the Territories of Burgundy and Sweitzerland.

The fifth day in fiue houres space I rode to Losanna, through Mountaines couered * 5.15 with Snow and thicke Woods. This Citie is subiect to Berna (being one of the Sweit∣zers Cantons), but the Citizens speake French. It is seated on the North side of the Lake of Losanna (of old called Lacus 〈◊〉〈◊〉), which is compassed with Mountaines continually couered with snow, which open themselues on the Eastside towards Italy. On the Eastside of the Citie is the head of the Riuer Rhodanus, which fulles into this Lake, hauing so cleare a colour, as it seemes not at all to mingle with the standing water of the Lake. From hence I rode by the West side of this Lake, and in two howers space came to Morgen, which Towne is also subiect to Berna.

Then I rode foure miles in foure houres space to Geneua, hauing the sandy banke of the said Lake on my left hand towards the East, and most pleasant Hilles planted with * 5.16 Vines on my right hand towards the West; and by the way I did see a Village ruined

in time of warre, nothing there standing but a pillar erected in honour of the Papists Masse. Geneua is seated on the South side of the Lake, right opposite to Losanna, sea∣ted at the North end thereof. The East side of the Lake lies towards Sauoy and Italy; and the West side towards France, on which side also the high way lies into Sweit∣zerland. The lower part of which Citie, vulgarly la bas rue, is seated in a plaine, and the rest vpon a Hill. The buildings are faire, and of free-stone. This Citie being consederate with some of the Sweitzer Cantones, and more strictly with Berna, hath defended the freedome of the Citizens, and the profession of Reformed Religion for many yeeres with great courage and pietie, and through many miseries and practises to subduethem, against the pretended rightes of the Bishop, and the Duke of Sauoyes ambition, and hatred he beares to the Reformed Religion. The lower part thereof on the North side, lies close to the South side of the Lake, where is a little hauen for Gal∣lies, which they haue built to keepe free the passage of the Lake. And on the same side is a strong Fort, and there the Riuer Rhodanus, comming out of the Lake enters the Ci∣tie, and runnes through the lower part thereof, hauing two bridges for passage. The Duke of Sauoy, who hath long watched to surprize this Citie, possesseth the East side of the Lake: but the Citie is carefull not to suffer him to build any Gallies thereupon; and vpon the least rumour of building them, armeth their Gallies to burne the same. Therefore the way into Sauoy lying vpon the East South East side of the Citie, in a Plaine betweene Hilles and Mountaines, the Citie hath built a Fort of little circuit, but great strength, with fortifications of earth, some Musket shot without the walles vpon that way, and therein continually keepes a Garrison. Not farre thence the Riuer Arba, flowing from the Easterne Mountaines, doth beyond the Citie fall into Rhodanus. At the South Gate is a publike Church-yard for buriall, and an Hospitall or Pest house, which are both without the walles. On the same side within the walles, is a pleasant walke vpon Hilles, where of old a pillar was erected, with this inscription:

To the Emperour Caesar M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius, by Foelix Aug. greatest Bishop with Tribunall power, Consull, &c.

On the West side of the Citie without the walles, little Mountaines lying not farre di∣stant, might seeme dangerous for the encamping of enemies, saue that on the one side they are compassed with the Territorie of Berne, confederate with the Citie, and on the other side with the Riuer Rhodanus, so as the enemies passage to them is very difficult. This Citie was of old repaired by the Emperour Aurelius, and Iulius Caesar makes men∣tion of this Citie in his first booke of the Gaules warre, so as the antiquitie thereof can∣not be doubted.

Here I had great contentment to speake and conuerse with the reuerent Father The∣odore Beza, who was of stature something tall, and corpulent, or big boned, and had a long thicke beard as white as snow. He had a graue Senatours countenance, and was broad faced, but not fat, and in generall by his comely person, sweete affabilitie and gra∣uitie, he would haue extorted reuerence from those that least loued him. I walked with him to the Church, and giuing attention to his speech, it happened that in the Church porch, I touched the poore mans box with my fingers, and this reuerend man soone perceiued my errour, who hauing vsed in Italy to dip my fingers towards the holy water (according to the manner of the Papists, lest the omitting of so small a mat∣ter generally vsed, might make me suspected of my Religion, and bring me into dan∣gers of greater consequence), did now in like sort touch this poore mans box, mista∣king it for the Font of holy water. I say, hee did soone perceiue my errour, and ta∣king me by the hand, aduised me hereafter to eschew these ill customes, which were so hardly forgotten.

When I had taken counsell with my friends, if it were safe for mee to goe the right way from Geneua to Paris, they being of great experience, disswaded me from that iour∣ney, which could not but be dangerous, the Peace being scarsely concluded, and the Countrey being full of bands of Souldiers returning to their owne home, which coun∣cell after I found good by Experience, the mother of fooles. And when they percei∣ued that I was obstinately purposed to passe through France into England, they adui∣sed

mee rather to passe into France by the Dukedome of Loraine, which for the time, was more free from the tumults of warre, whose councell I thought good to fol∣low, so as I was now to returne to Strassburg in Germany, almost the same way I came.

Thus after noone I left Geneua, and rode that day foure miles to Morgen. The se∣cond day in the morning I rode in two houres space to Losanna, and in fiue houres space to Milden, where I payed eight batzen for my dinner and horse-meate. After dinner in foure howers space I rode to Bitterline, and payed fourteene batzen for my supper and horse-meate. The third day in the morning I rode one mile (as they call it) in foure houres space to Morton, & in three howers space to Berne, one of the Sweitzers Cantons, through sandy fieldes of Corne, and many Woods. At Geneua many French Gentlemen and Students comming thither for the libertie of their religion, did speake pure French, and from that Citie all the people spake a barbarous French till I came neere Berne, where they first began to speake the Sweitzers language.

Being to describe Berne, giue me leaue first for Trauellers sake to mention what I haue * 5.17 read in some Authors; that in the Territorie of Lucerna (which I neuer viewed, and who are earnest Papists, and so may iustly bee suspected in like reports) there is a won∣derfull Lake, vpon the banke whereof they say Pilate doth once in a yeere walke, ani∣red in Iudges robes, and that whosoeuer then sees him, doth die the same yeere. The most faire Citie Berne hath the name of Beares in the Dutch tongue, because Berthold Duke of Zeringen, being to build the Citie, and going fourth to hunt, thought good to giue it the name of the first beast he should meete and kill. And there being a Wood of Oakes in the very place where the Citie was to be built, the workemen cutting the same for the building of the Citie, did sing this Rime in Dutch:

Holtz lass dich hawen gern: Die stat muss heissen Bern. Wood let vs willingly cut thee: this Citie must Bern named be.

They write, that the ground whereupon the Citie is built, was of old called the Sacke, and that the Citie thereupon was built in forme of a sacke. This most faire City is not of any great antiquitie; for Berthold the founder thereof died in the yeere 1175. It is built vpon a little Mountaine, yet seemes to be seated in a Valley, because it is compas∣sed with greater Mountaines. The little Mountaine whereupon it is seated, is narrow, and the full bredth thereof is within the walles, neither is it much lon∣ger then the Citie, lying in length from the West to the East, in which length it hath three faire and broad streetes, and is fortified round about with the Val∣leys of this little Mountaine. The houses are vniformely, and very fairely built of free-storie, hauing the first vpper roomes of the houses cast out towards the streetes, and supported with arches, vnder which they walke drie in the greatest raine. Round about this little Mountaine the Citizens haue their gardens from the fall of the same to the lowest Valleyes, and vpon the South-East by South, is a most faire Church, and very pleasant for the light somnesse thereof, and on euery side there is a pleasant place for walking. On the South side without the walles the Riuer Arba runnes from the West to the East, and is passed by a bridge at the East ende of the Ci∣tie, whence it turneth towards the North, and so makes the Citie almost an Iland. Here I paied fourteene batzen for my supper and horsemeate. The fourth day in the mor∣ning, I rode three miles in sixe houres space (through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pa∣sture) to Solothurn. And by the way I obserued a monument of the English defeated by the Sweitzers, with this in scription in Dutch; Ritterlich erschlagen die English gùckler Anno 1425, arme Iucke: That is; The English Iuglers Knightly beaten in the yeere 1425, poore Knaues.

The English Histories make no mention of any warre with the Sweitzers. Semler a Sweitzer Historian in his first booke fifty fourth leafe writes, that Leopold Duke of Austria, drew the English against the Sweitzers, and that they did much hurt by wa∣sting the Territories, aswell of Austria as of Sweitzerland, but that they being ouer∣come in some battels, did after the wasting of these Countries returne home in the yeere 1376, and this he calles the first English warre. Also Semler in his first booke the leafe 273 writes, that the English (as it seemes called from the French warre) did

at the instance of Duke Leopold besiege Strassburg in the yeere 1365: but the Emperor Charles the fourth comming with an armie against them, that they retired. But neither doe the words of Semler agree, since he calles the first attempt the first English warre, and after mentions another of former time neither doe the yeeres set downe by Semler agree with the yeeres of this monument, neither seemes it by the French Histories, that the English had any leasure to make warre vpon the Sweitzers in the yeere 1365, and lesse in the yeere 1376. To conclude, it appeares aswell by the English as French Hi∣stories, that the English Conquerours in France, had so weightie a warre lying there vp∣on them in the yeere 1425, set downe in this monument, as it is not credible they could at that time turne their forces any other way. Only the most approued French Writers witnes, that the English and French hauing made a truce for eighteene mo∣neths in the yeere 1443, it seemed good to the leaders on both sides, that the souldiers hating rest and peace, should be drawne out to some forraine warre, and that the Eng∣lish seruing vnder Lewis the Dolphin of France, the said Lewis in the yeere 1444 ma∣king warre vpon the Sweitzers, killed therein 4000 of them: but the victorie was so bloudy of this battell, fought in the territorie of Bazel, as he that had the victorie, lost some 5000 men of his owne, and that the Emperour Frederick the third comming a∣gainst him, he drew his men backe. For my part I leaue the credit of this monument to be tried by the consent of Historians, and returne to my iourney.

The fifth day in the morning, I rode foure miles to the Towne Ottmersea, and in the afternoone, through a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods, I rode foure miles to Besa. The sixth day in the morning I rode fiue miles, through the like Plaine, to Ger∣zen, and in the after-noone, through a woody heath Plaine, and towards my iournies end through fruitfull fields of Corne, I rode foure miles to Strassburg. And in all this iourney I payed about seuen batzen for each meale. From Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon senentene miles, others twenty two miles; for the Dutch reckon the miles diuersly, according to the length of them in their owne Countrey, and in these parts they vse to distinguish their iournies by howers riding, not by miles. Not farre from the foresaid Towne Besa, lies the Citie Bazell, which I haue described in my former iourney through these parts, But to gratifie those who loue to search antiquities, giue me leaue to say, that Augusta Rauracorum (so called for distinction from Augusta Vinde∣licorum) a Citie of great antiquitie, and at this day become a poore Village, lies distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine Iura, and that neere this ancient Citie are many old, monuments of the Romans, and many buildings vnder the earth, which my selfe being lesse curious, did not see; and that the Husbandmen there, digged vp lately a coyne of gold, and sold it for copper, which was after valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans.

I say nothing of Strassburg, which I haue in the foresaid place formerly described, onely I will say, that I had the good fortune there, to find a French Gentleman, the Go∣uernour of Monwick with his traine, in whose company I rode thither. 〈9 words〉〈9 words〉 a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to Sauerne, in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strassburg haue long fortified themselues vnder the protection of the Duke of Loraine, against their Lords the Senators of Strassburg, and haue appropriated to themselues great part of the reuenewes of that Bishoppricke, lying vnder their power. After din∣ner I rode three miles through Hilles yet couered with snow, to Villa Noua. Concer∣ning my expences, I spent each day little lesse then a French Crowne, namely, two franckes for my supper, and commonly three French soulz for my breake-fast, and one franck for my horsemeate.

The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the Empire, and the Dukedome * 5.18 of Loraine and some three miles further to Monwick, where so much salt is made, as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receiues sixty thousand French Crownes for the same. The third day through a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne, I rode fiue miles to the Citie Nanzi, where the Duke of Loraine keepes his Court, and when I was entring * 5.19 the Gate, the Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee, to know my name and

Countrie. I not ignorant that the Family of Loraine (vsurping great power in France, vnder the pretence to defend the Roman Religion) bare no good will to the English at that time, answered, that I was a Polonian, hee inquired many things of the King∣dome, King and Queene of Poland, and perceiuing that I answered him directly, hee whispered something with some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence, and so turning againe to me, bad me lift vp my hand, (for so the French vse to take othes.) I was much affraid lest I should bee forced vpon this oath to confesse my Countrey which I had dissembled: but when I demaunded the cause; hee told mee, that many places being infected by the Plague, I was to sweare, that I came not from any of them, which (to be freed from my former feare) I did gladly assure him vpon my oath. The Citie is strongly fortified, saue that the South side, where the circuit of the Citie was inlarged, was not yet compassed with walles, neither were the houses on that side yet built. The houses are fairely built of free stone. The Dukes Pallace was built foure square, with a large inner Court all of free stone, and with a high Gallerie towards the said Court-yard, and there I had the opportunitie to see the Duke, and the Princes and the Princesses his children.

Finding not heere any companie for my iourney into France, which I hoped to finde at Metz, and thinking it not conuenient to stay longer then I must * 5.20 needes, in a place for the time ill affected to the English, I rode the fourth day eight French miles to Metz. In the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth, the French tooke this Citie from the Empire, aud at this day it was held for Henrie the fourth King of France by a Garrison of his men; and euery one now talking of Peace made in France, yet it was not then proclaimed in these parts, nor vpon any of the confines of France. My selfe after few dayes stay, finding no consorts for my iourney into France, was admonished by some honest Gentlemen in this Citie, that this iourney would bee very dangerous to mee, in respect that the ar∣mie being broken vp, all France would bee full through all parts of scattering troopes of Souldiers, returning to their owne homes. But when they perceiued that I was obstinate in my purpose to passe through France into England, they per∣swaded mee at least to sell my Horse, and goe on foote; for they said, the boo∣tie of a good Horse would surely cause mee to bee robbed by those, who might perhaps let me passe quietly on foot, disguised in poore apparrell; for they seeing mee well mounted, would surely set vpon me, and twenty to one kill me aswel because they that rob in France do commonly kill them they rob, as because they would imagine mee to bee a souldier, either on the Kings, or on the Leagers side, and in that case, if I were on their owne side, would kill me, for feare of being forced to resti∣tution; and if I were on the aduerse part; would thinke mee well killed as an e∣nemie. Besides that, the Marshals of the Kingdome at the ende of a Ciuill warre, vsed such seueritie of iustice to suppresse all disorders, as they would surely kill mee, lest I should complaine of them. Whereas if I passed on foote, they were like either to let mee goe in peace, or at least to bee content with my money, without offering further violence to mee, whom they would iudge to bee of some base condition. This their counsell I approued, and (howsoeuer vnwillingly) sold my Horse for sixteene French Crownes. In this Citie I payed a franck each meale. It is a faire Citie and well fortified, and it is seated vpon a Hill, in a fat soile fruitfull of Corne, and the Riuer Mosella running from Nancey in a Plaine, passeth close by the West Gate of the Citie, where it is to bee passed by a couered bridge.

Being to take my iourney towards Paris on foote, I hired a poore man to guide me to Chalons, and to carry my cloake, and my little baggage. The first day after dinner wee went two French miles, by the banke of the said Riuer, through a dyrtie way, and a Countrie fruitfull of Corne, but hauing no Woods, not so much as a tree, and came to a poore Village. By the way I passed by Pontmolin, where of old was a faire bridge to passe ouer Mosella, the ruines whereof at this day are called Arches de Ioye. In this my iourney to Paris, I spent each day for my dyet about twentie foure soulz.

The second day we went two miles to Pont, and fiue miles to Toul, where I payed two testoones and a halfe for a paire of shooes. Our way was very dyrtie, through fruit∣full fields of Corne, and we often heard the cries of the Country people, driuing their cattell to fortified places, vpon the seeing of some scattered troopes of Souldiers, which made vs much affraid, and that not without iust cause: but God deliuered vs from this danger. The third day I being so wearie as I could not goe on foot, hired for one Frank two post horses (returning homeward) for me & my guide to ride 2 miles, & after 2 horses for three frankes for vs to ride three miles to Saint Aubine. The fourth day I hired two horses for vs for a French Crowne, and we rode fiue miles to Bar in a faire way, through Pastures, and Hilles planted with Vines yeelding a rich Wine, and fruitfull fields of Corne. And this day we passed by the Village Longeuille, which the Countrey people had fortified in this ciuill warre, to defend themselues from being spoiled by sudden inuasions, though otherwise they were each night forced to lodge some Troope or other. Hauing dined plentifully at Bar, and being refreshed with excellent wine, in the after noone we went foure miles through the like way to the Vil∣lage Ampton Cour, where a French Gentleman dwelt, who the same day had there pro∣claimed the Peace. For now wee had passed the confines of Loraine, and this was the first Village of France, in the Prouince of Champaigne. The fifth day being (after the new stile) the first of May, in the yeere 1595, wee went on foote nine long French * 5.21 miles to Chalons. At the end of the first two miles, wee came to the first house, standing alone, and called la rouge maison, that is, the red house, inhabited onely by an old woman, who would giue vs nothing to eate or drinke, and in all the rest of the way we did neither see Village, nor house, nor so much as a tree. The fields were plaine, and all the Prouince (according to the name) was a Champion Countrey, and seemed apt to beare great store of Corne, but now in the time of Ciuill warre, they lay vn∣ploughed, and the Husbandmens houses were fallen to the ground. Yea, wee could not finde so much as water to quench our thirst, so as my guide was forced to drinke the standing water lying in the cartruts of the high way, and my selfe to quench my thirst, did chew the crust of a browne loafe which he had giuen me, whereby I kept my mouth moist, casting the crust away when I had chewed it.

We had now scarce entred France, when suddenly the mischiefe fell vpon me, which my friends at Metz had foretold me. When I had passed halfe this dayes iourney, I met with some dozen horsemen, whose Captaine demaunded of me my name and Countrey. I answered, that I was a Dutch man, and the seruant of a Dutch Merchant, who staied for me at Chalons, whether I was then going. He (as it seemed to me) think∣ing it dishonourable to him, if he should himselfe assault a poore fellow, and a stranger, did let me passe, but before I came to the bottome of the hill, I might see him send two horsemen after me, who wheeling about the mountaines, that I might not know they were of his company, suddenly rushed vpon me, and with fierce countenance threat∣ning death, presented their Carbines to my brest. I hauing no abilitie to defend mee, thought good not to make any the least shew of resistance, so they tooke my sword from my guide, and were content onely to rob me of my mony. I formerly said, that I could not finde at Venice any meanes to exchange my money to Paris, the long Ciuill warre hauing barred the Parisians from any traffique in forraine parts, and that I was forced to exchange my money to Geneus. This money there receiued, I had quilted within my doublet, and when I resolued to goe on foote to Paris, I made me a base co∣uer for my apparrel, which when they perceiued, they tooke from me the inward dou∣blet wherein I had quilted the gold, and though they perceiued that vnder my base∣couer, I had a Ierkin and hose laide with gold lace, yet they were content to take onely the inner dublet, and to leaue me all the rest of my apparrell, wherein I doe acknow∣ledge their courtesie, since theeues giue all they doe not take. Besides, they tooke not onely my Crownes but my sword, cloake, and shirtes, and made a very vnequall ex∣change with me for my hat, giuing me another deepe greasie French hat for it.

One thing in this miserie made me glad. I formerly said, that I sold my horse for 16. French Crownes at Metz, which Crownes I put in the bottome of a wooden box, and

couered them with a stinking ointment for scabs. Sixe other French Crownes, for the worst euent, I lapped in cloth, and thereupon did wind diuers colored threads, wherein I sticked needles, as if I had been so good a husband, as to mend my own clothes. This box and this ball of thread, I had put in my hose, as things of no worth; and when in spovling me they had searched my pockets, they first tooke the boxe, and smelling the stinke of the ointment, they cast it away on the ground; neither were they so frugail to take my bal of thread to mend their hose, but did tread it likewise vnder their feet. Then they rode swiftly to their companions, and I with some sparke of ioy in my greater losse, tooke vp the box and ball of thread, thinking my selfe lesse miserable, that by the Grace of God I had some money left, to keepe me from begging in a strange Coun∣trey.

This Tragedie thus acted, I and my guide (very sad because he despared of my abili∣tie to pay him his hire) went forward our iourney, hee wondering that I was no more deiected in the danger I had passed, and for my miserable want of mony, thinking that I had neuer a penny left, whom he did see so narrowly searched, and yet perceiued that I was in some sort merry. At last we did see the City of Challons not farre distant, and vpon our left hand was a faire spring, which had seuen heads, to which wee went to drinke, being both very thirstie. Here I put into the water the hat which the theeues had giuen me, by vnequall exchange for mine, being greasie to the very top, and deepe according to the French fashion, and filling it with water thrice, drunke it vp greedily. Then I filled it the fourth time, and broke into it the crummes of the browne loafe, the crust whereof had to that time kept my mouth with some moisture, which I deuoured, and thought I had neuer eaten better brewesse; but three daies ficknesse of vomiting and loosenesse made me repent this intemperance.

Thence wee went to Chalons, where my guide brought mee to a poore Ale-house, and when I expostulated the wrong he did me; he replied, That stately Innes were not for men who had neuer a penny in their purses: but I told him, that I looked for com∣fort in that case rather from Gentlemen then Clownes. Whereupon hee willingly o∣beyed me, and with a deiected and fearefull countenance, brought me to the chiefe Inne, where he ceased not to bewaile my misery, and to recount my Tragedy as if it had been the burning of Troy, till the very Hoste despairing of my abilitie to pay him, began to looke disdainefully vpon me. The next morning when hee being to returne home, and taking his leaue of me, I paied him his hire, which he neither asked nor expe∣cted, thinking that I had not one penny, and likewise paied my Hoste for my supper and lodging, he first began to talke like a mad man, and comming to himselfe, professed that he knew not how I should haue one pennie, except I were a Iugler, or an Alchu∣mist, or had a familiar spirit. Then confounded betweene wonder and ioy, hee began to triumph with the seruants, and would not depart, till hee had first drunke a quart of Wine.

The building of Chalons was low and base being of Timber and Clay, and this Ci∣tie hath no beauty but in the large Market-place and strong Fort. On the West side * 5.22 without the walles, are pleasant Ilands, whether the Citizens vse to passe by boat, and to walke there for recreation. I formerly said that I spent in this iourney some fortie two soulz by the day for my diet, after which rate I payed here, and if extraordi∣narily I called for wine, I payed two soulz and a halfe for a measure little bigger then our English pint.

From hence to Paris I passed in a long wagon of Paris, and paied two French Crownes for my place therein The first day we passed in like way to the former, and in the same Prouince of Champaigne, foureteene miles to Sizan, and did scarse see two poore Villages by the way; but I was told, that some halfe a mile out of the high way, was the castle Chastilton, wherof the Admiral of France killed in the Massacre of Paris, and the Gentlemen of his Family haue their name. The second day we were carried 12 miles to Nangi, being as vet not freed frō the cries of poore people, driuing their cattell from Troopes of Souldiers, but for my part I made the prouerbe true that the passen∣ger hauing nothing, sings before the thiefe. Yet was I not without feare of a greater

mischiefe then robbing, by the losse of my life, hauing no mony to redeeme it from the cut-throat souldiers.

The third day we were carried ten miles in Champaigne, through a Champion Coun∣try lying wast, & 4 miles more to Paris, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, & pleasant hils planted with vines. This Country wherein Paris is seated, is compailed with the ri∣uers of Seyne, & Matrona, & Orsa, & is properly called the Iland of France. The Parisians haue their name either from Paris of Troy, or of the Parrhasij, a people of Asia, which * 5.23 did accompany Hercules, or of the Temple of Isis neete them (according to the Greeke language), for the statua of Isis was at Saint German, till it was taken away in the yeere 1514, and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun. The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin, either of dirt, for the Fens adioining, or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out, because all the floares are of plaster, and the houses plastered ouer. And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar, who built great part thereof. It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees, and the chiefe part thereof, namely, the Iland or greater City, is seated in a fenny ground. For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris, and broken downe the bridges. In the time of King Phillip Augustus, the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary, on the North-side thereof, as appeares by an inscription. Also in the yeere 1373, for two moneths space, they so ouerflowed the City, as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine. To conclude, omitting many ouer∣flowings mentioned in Histories, it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery, that in the yeere 1496, there was a great inundation. The City of old was all in the Iland, and when it could not receiue the multitude increased, the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent, and first that part of the City called La ville, then the third part called the Vniuersity, were esteemed suburbes, till after they were ioined to the City. For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings, so as the Sub∣burbes were greater then the City; whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had, and compassed them with wals, whereof the ru∣ines yet appeare. And new Suburbes being afterwards built, King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉〈◊〉, made an Edict, that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down, and that no more should afterwards be built. The Riuer Seyne running from the South, and entering at the South-side, diuides the City into two parts, the greater part whereof towards the East and North, lies low in a plaine, and is vulgarly called La ville. The lesse lying towards the South and West, vpon a higher ground, is seated be∣tweene hils, and is called the Vniuersity. Betweene those two parts lies the third, name∣ly the Iland, called the City, which is seated in a plaine, and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne, running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity. And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity, with two bridges, and to the Ville with three bridges: but now a sixth called the new bridge, doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity. The part of the City called the Ville, is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne, and vpon the East and North sides with wals, ram∣piers, and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle. The second part of the City called the Vniuersity, is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne, and vpon the South and West sides with wals, which they write to haue the forme of a hat, saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme. For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland, it had also the forme of another halfe circle, though somewhat lesse then the former. The third part called the Iland or City, is compassed round a∣bout with the Riuer Seyne, and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands, which are marked in the map with blacke ines, and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City. To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges, and in respect of the Bishops Pallace, & he Kings greater Pallace, it may be called the heart of the City. The old wals of the Ville, were first of lesse circuit then now they are; for new wals were built, which also included the Suburbes, and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone, the outer wall is of earth, com∣pailed round about with ditches, which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water,

but further off towards the North and East, are narrow and altogether drie. But the old wals are either demolished, or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses. The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals, and because it is seated vpon high ground, the ditches are altogether drie. And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity, are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them. And round about the City (I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland) are many rampiers vp∣pon the wall like so many Forts. The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals, wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North, at this day is compassed. Pa∣ris in generall is subiect to the King, so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction, and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop. In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth, one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466, and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371, gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen. King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090, made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority; and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies, he paued the streetes with flint, and compassed the City with wals. The Parisians haue raised many seditions: The first in the yeere 1306, against rich men raising the rents of houses. The second with the King of Nauar and the English, against the Dolphin. The third in the yeere 1383, against the Kings Treasurers, which Charles the sixth (returning with his Army out of Flanders) did seuerely punish. The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy. The fifth most pestilent and longest, with the Guisians against the last King of Valois.

The building of the City is for the most part stately, of vnpolished stone, with the outside plastered, and rough cast, and the houses for the most part are foure stories high, and sometimes sixe, besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes. The streetes are somewhat large, and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis, the second Saint Honere, the third Saint Antoine, and the fourth Saint Martine. And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest. The pauement is of little, but thicke and somewhat broade stones. But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville, either for the low situa∣tion, or by the negligence of the Citizens, are continually dirty and full of filth. The three parts of the City, namely, the Ville, the Iland, and the Vniuersity, being ioined together, are of a round forme, (which of all others is most capable) saue that the halfe circle of the Ville, is greater then the other halfe circle, which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of the former. And the whole circuit of the City without the wals (excluding the suburbes) is said to be of sixe miles. The market places which are in the streetes, are vulgarly called, Carrefours, as being fouresquare, and hauing passage to them on all sides, and they are eleuen in number, namely, foure of the Butchers, (which vpon a sedition raised by them, were diuided into foure tribes), the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa, the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops, and for the weomen which sell linnen, which is vulgarly called, La lingeria, well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers; the seuenth of the brokers, vulgarly called, La Fripperie, the eight and chiefe, is in the Iland, called Marshes, because of the Fenny soyle: the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer, seated neere the tenth, being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity: the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges. There be foureteene fountaines, besides the fountaine of the Queene, and that of the Inno∣cents, built of stone. The Ville hath eight Hospitals, the Vniuersity foure, and the Iland two.

[illustration]

The description of Paris.

(A) the Gate Saint Antoine, (B) the Bastile, (C) the gate of the Temple, (D) gate of Saint Martin, (E) gate of Saint Denys, (F) gate Mont-martre, (G) gate Saint Honore, (H) New gate, (I) Le L'ouure, (K) gate Saint Victoire, (L) gate Marcell, (M) gate of Saint Iames, (N) gate Saint Michaell, (O) gate Saint Germain, (P) gate Bussia, (Q) gate Nella, (R) Cathedrall Church, (S) Church Saint Bartholmew, (T) the greater Pallace, (V) Pont denostredame, (W) Pont Au change, (X) Pont aux musniers, (Y) Petit pont, (Z) Pont Saint Michaell, (XX) Pont neuf.

I will begin the description of the City, with the first part thereof, called La ville, which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west. I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City, which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates, as seruing for no vse: Onely I will say that they were of the same number, and so called, as these new gates are; and that King Francis the first for come∣linesse sake caused them to be demolished. The first of these seuen gates, lies towards the South-east, and is called (A) Saint Antoine. By this gate I entered the City, when I came from Chalons, and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace, not farre distant from Paris, and most sweet for the seat and building, called Bois du' Sainct vin∣cent, and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine, being without this gate, where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne, and so entered Paris, by the gate, and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin. Neere this gate, Francis the first built a fort. As I came in, on the left hand, was the Tower (B) called the Bastile, well knowne by that name, which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369, by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris; and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie, it came to the Kings hand. On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance, neere the Monastery of the Celestines, in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers: and among the rest, one erected to Lewis of Orleans, (slaine by the Duke of Burgondy) and to his Dutchesse Valentina, (daughter to the Duke of Milan) by King Lewis the twelfth, with learned Epitaphs. On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul, the House of the Queene, the house of the Prouost of Paris, the publike Senate-house, and the place called the Greue, famous by the capitall punishment of offenders. For

in this part of the City called Ville, there be three places for the execution of Iustice, (the other two parts hauing not one place) namely this of the Greue, and that of the Temple, lying on the left hand of the gate, called Temple, next adioining to this, and the third called Luparia, lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate, called the new gate. And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin, to be buried vpon Mont-falcon. And giue me leaue out of order to remember you, that Pierre Remy, Treasurer and gouernour of France, vnder King Charles the faire, re∣paired this Mont-Falcon, and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes stan∣ding there, this time in French;

Ence gibeticy, ser à pendu Pierre Remy. Vpon this gybet here you see, Peter Remy hanged shall be.

And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there, for the ill administration of his office. On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony, is a place for Tylting, called Tournelles. Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley, is an inscription, witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground, for an arrow shot into the Church, when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse, in the yeere 1404, there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity, about a scholler denled with dirt, and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate, on the right hand, in the Monastery Saint Anthony, a dried Crocodill is hung vp, which a French Ambassador at Venice, left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles, being of blacke marble, with their statuaes of white marble. Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall, made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉〈◊〉, which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392, because the Constable of France was wounded from thence. The second gate towards the East, is the gate of the (C) Temple, neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon, on your righthand as you come in, and this fort, or some other in this place, was built by Fran∣cis the first. On the lefthand as you come in, is the house of the Templary Knights, like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name. And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished; their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn. The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem, and there be the monuments of Bertrand & Peter, (Priors of France,) & the Table of the Altar is cu∣riously painted; and here Phillip Villerius, Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn, was bu∣ried in the yeere 1532, to whom a statua of white marble is erected. The third gate is called (D) Saint Martine, and it lieth towards the North-east, without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence, so called of the Church of Saint Laurence. The fourth gate is called (E) Saint Denis, and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus, and the foresaid Mount Falcon; and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City, he did much harme to the same, from some high places without this gate. On the left hand as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys, lies a Castle which they say Iulius Casar built, and the same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris, whereupon Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians. And vpon the righthand is the Nunnery of the daughters of God, which vse to giue three morsels of bread and a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution. Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy Innocents, which King Phillip Augustus compassed with wals; and there be many faire sepulchers: and they say that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies. The fifth (F) gate lies toward the North, and is called Mont-Martre, so called of a mountaine of the same name, lying without that gate, and hauing the name of Martyres there executed. And Henry the fourth besieging the City, moun∣ted his great Ordinance in this place. The sixth (G) gate Saint Honore, hath a suburbe, in which is the market place for swines flesh, and vpon the right hand as you come in, hard by the gate, is an Hospitall for three hundred blind men.

The seuenth (H) and last gate, lies vpon the Seyne towards the North-west, and is called the new gate: and within the same about a musket shot distance, is the (I) Kings

Pallace, which may be called the lesse Pallace, in respect of the greater, seated in the Iland, and this little Pallace is vulgarly called, Le' leuure.) This Pallace hath onely one Court yard, and is of a quadrangle forme, saue that the length somewhat passeth the bredth, and the building being of free stone, seemeth partly old, partly new, and to∣wards one of the corners, the Kings chambers (vulgarly called Il Pauillon) are more fairely built then the rest. Without the said new gate, some halfe musket shot distance, is the Kings garden with the banquetting house (vulgarly called Les Tuilleries). And now the ciuill warres being ended, the King beganne to build a stately gallery, which should ioine together this garden and the foresaid Pallace of the King, and I heare that this Gallery is since finished. And the hall ioining this gallery with the Pallace, doth passe the stately building of the rest of the Pallace, being beautified with many stones of marble and of porphery. I say that this Gallery leads from the Pallace ouer the wals of the City, and the ditch thereof (being neere the riuer and so full of water), and after being supported with two or three Arches, reacheth to the same garden; and all the way without the wals, from the Pallace to the said Garden, being compassed with wals on both sides this gallery, the Garden seemes to be so much increased.

On the left hand, as you come into the foresaid new Gate, lies the Tower Luparia, & Alencon house, & Burbon house, & the Coyning house, and vpon the right hand the chiefe Coyning house, lying vpon the Riuer Seyne. To conclude, of the streetes of this part of the Citie called Ville, the chiefe is S. Antoine; the second of the Temple; the third S. Martine; the fourth S. Denys; the fifth Mont Martre; the sixth S. Honore; (all so na∣med of their Gates) and the seuenth Luparia, vpon the banke of the Riuer Seyne. And amongst all these, the most faire are that of S. Antoine, S. Denis, S. Honorè, and S. Martinè, so called of their Gates. A. E. G. D.

The second part of the Citie, called the Vniuersitie, hath the Riuer Seyne on the East and North-sides, and is compassed with walles on the South and West sides, and hath seuen Gates. The first (K) Gate S. Victoire, lies on the South side vpon the Riuer, and hath his Suburbe, with a stately Monastery. And from the Hill adioyning to this Gate, the Army of King Henrie the fourth besieging the Citie, much pressed the same, hauing their Cannon planted neere the Gallowes. On the right hand as you come in, towards the Riuer, lie the Tower Nella, the vpper, the Colledge of the: Cardinall, the Colledge of the good boyes, the Colledge and the Church of the Bernardines, which Pope Benedict the twelfth built, and the Cardinall of Telouse increased with a Li∣braty, and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie Diuinitie. Also there lie the house of Lorayne, the great Schooles of foure Nations, the Market place for Riuer fish, and the Castle, and the little bridge which the Prouost of Paris built, to restraine the Schollers walking by night, in the time of King Charles the fifth. The second gate is called (L) the Porte of Marcellus, or of the Stewes, and it hath a Suburbe, where in the Church of Saint Marcellus, Bishop of Paris, and canonized for a Saint, (which Row∣land Count of Blois, nephew to Charles the Great, did build); Peter Lombardiu Bishop of Paris was buried, in the yeere 1164; and behinde the great Altar, in a window, is the Image of Charles the Great. On the right hand as you enter the said Port, by the Mount of S. Genouefa, lie the Colledge Turnonium, the Colledge Bonae Curiae, the Col∣ledge of the Dutch, the Colledge of Navarra, & the Colledge Marchieum, and the Col∣ledge Laudunense and on the left hand the Colledge of the Lombards, the Colledge Prellaum, famous for Peter Ramus, who was Master of that Colledge, & was there killed in the massacre. The third Gate of (M) S Iames, lyes on the South-west side, where King Francis the first built a fort; & without this Gate is a suburb, in which is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie, at the very entrie whereof, is a most ancient Image of the Virgin, painted with gold and siluer, with an inscription vpon it. In the streete of Saint Iames, the Iesuites had their Colledges, till for their wicked acts they were banish∣ed the Citie and Kingdome. And since their restitution I thinke they now enioy the same. On the right hand as you enter this Gate, lie the Colledge Lexouiense, the Col∣ledge of Saint Michael, or Cenate, the Colledge Montis Acuti, (which built in the yeere 1490, maintaines certaine poore Scholers, called Capeti), the Colledge of S. Barbera,

the Colledge of Rheines, the schoole of Decrees, the Colledge Bellouaccuse, the Col∣ledge Triqueticum, the Colledge Cameracense, and the Colledge Carnouallense. On the left hand lie the Colledge of the bald men, the Colledge of Sorbona, (which Robert of Sorbona a Diuine, and familiar with King Saint Lewis, did institute, and the same in processe of time became of great authority in determining questions of Diui∣nity), the Colledge of Master Geruasius a Christian, the Colledge Plexourense, and the Colledge Marmontense. The fourth (N) Gate of the vniuersity is called Port Michaell, where Francis the first built a Fort, and before the gate is a Monastery of the Carthusi∣ans, where a statua of blacke marble is erected to Peter Nauareus, and there be two sta∣tuaes of white marble, without any inscription. On the right hand as you enter this gate, lie the Colledge Cluniacense, the Pallace of the Baths, (which they say was built by Iulius Caesar, and is so called either of the bounds of the Tributes, or of the Baths of Iulian the Apostata, the waters whereof are drawne from a Village adioining), and the Colledge of eighteene, and vpon the left hand the Colledge of Hericuria, the Colledge of Iustice, the Colledge of the Treasurers, the Colledge Baionium, the Colledge Scensa, and the Colledge Turonense. The fifth Gate on the West side is called (O) Saint Ger∣main, and without the gate is a suburbe, (all suburbes are vulgarly called Faulxbourg), which is large, and was pulled downe to the ground in the ciuill war. And there King Henry the fourth lay encamped, when he besieged the City. In this suburbe is the mo∣nastery of Saint Germain, not inferiour to any in wealth, and indowed with great pri∣uiledges and iurisdiction, where the old Kings Childebert the second, and Ckilperit the fourth, and Clotharius the second, lie buried; and there is a chest of siluer, the gift of King Eudo. On the right hand as you come into this Gate, in the Minorites Cloyster, are the sepulchers of the Queenes and Princes, whereof one being of blacke marble, with white statuaes, is the fairest: (my memory herein may faile me, that there is ano∣ther Cloyster of Minorites without the gate of Saint Marcellus). Also there lie the Colledge Brissiacum, and vpon the left hand the house Rothomagensis, the Colledge of Burgondy, the house of Rhemes, the Colledge Mignonium, the Colledge Praemonstratense, and the Colledge Dinuellium. The sixth Gate is called (P) Bussia, and vpon the right hand as you come in, lies the Colledge Anthunense, and vpon the left hand lies the house Niuernensis. The seuenth and last Gate of the Vniuersity, lies towards the north∣west, & is called (Q) Nella, and without the same is the meadow of the Clerkes. On the right hand as you come in this gate, lie the house Nella. the Colledge of Saint Denis, and the house of the Augustines, wherein is the sepulcher and liuely Image of Phillip Comineus. And vpon the left hand, lie the lower Tower Nella, and the Westerne bank of the Riuer Seyne.

These are the fairest streetes of the Vniuersity, the first of Saint Victoire, the second of Saint Marcellus, the third of Saint Iames, the fourth of Saint Germain, the fifth of the Celestines, vpon the banke of the Riuer, the sixth of the mountaine of Saint Genouefa, the seuenth of Saint Michaell, and the eight of the Augustines, vpon the banke of the ri∣uer Seyne.

The third part of the City is the Iland, compassed round about with the Riuer Seyn. It had of old foure Gates, vpon the foure bridges, but seemes to haue had no gate vpon the fifth bridge, called Pont aux musniers, (which in this discription I reckon to be the third gate). In the vpper part of the Iland towards the South-east, is a fenny market place; called the Marsh, that is, the Fen. Neer that lies (R) the Cathedrall Church of the blessed Virgin, which King Phillip Augustus began to build in the yeere 1257, the foun∣dations being before laid by an vncertaine founder, and it is reputed the chiefe among the miracles of France. It is supported with one hundred and twenty pillars, whereof one hundred and eight are lesse, and twelue very great, being all of free stone. The Chauncell is in the middest of the Church, which hath 〈◊〉〈◊〉 walking paces in length, and sixty paces in bredth, and all the Chauncell is compassed with stone, wherein the Histories of the old and new testament are engrauen. It hath forty fiue Chappels in the circuit thereof, which are shut vp with grates of Iron. In the Front it hath two dou∣ble doores, with faire statuaes of twenty eight Kings. Vpon the sides are foure Towers

or belfreyes, thirtie foure Cubits high. The greatest bell called Marie, requires twen∣tie foure men to ring it, and the sound thereof in faire weather may bee heard seuen leagues of. In a Chappell towards the South, are the statuaes of King Lewis the fat, and of his son Phillip, with the Image of a hog, because he died with a fal from his horse stumbling vpon a hog. On the North side is a mark, that the ouerflowing of the Riuer Seyne passed the outward statuaes from that of Phillip Augustus. King Phillip of Va∣lois hauing gotten a victory against the Flemings in the yeere 1328, offered his Horse and armour to the blessed Virgin, and gaue the Chanons an hundred pounds yeere∣ly rent, to whom for that cause a Horse-mans statua is there erected. Also there is a Giantlike statua, erected to Saint Christofer, in the yeere 1413, by Antony Dessars Knight.

In the lower part of the Iland towards the North-West, the Church of (S) Saint Bartholmew is seated, which was built by King Phillip the faire, and after was turned from the Kings Chappell to a Monastery by King Lotharius, in the yeere 973, and then became a parish Church, whereof the King (in respect of the old Pallace) was the chiefe Parishioner, and I thinke is so still. It became most famous, in that the bell of that Church was sounded vpon the verie day of Saint Bartholmew, in the yeere 1572, to giue a signe to the Regalists and Guisians, that they should kill those of the reformed Religion, whom they had drawne to the Citie vnder pretence of loue, and could not otherwise haue ouercome, as they found by experience of their va∣lour.

Neere that, lyes the Kings greater (T) Pallace, wherein the old Kings kept their Court; but it hath since been vsed for the Courts of iustice, and pleading of Lawyers. In the great Hall hanges vp a dried Crocodil, or a Serpent like a Croco∣dil. There bee the painted Images of all the French Kings from Pharamund. There is a statua of a Hart, with the head and necke of Gold, set there in memory of the Treasurers, who in the time of King Charles the sixth, turned the money in the Exchequer into that forme, lest it should be wasted.

Here was painted vpon the wall neere the Tower, vpon the top of the staires of the great Hall, the Image of Engueranus Morignon, Earle of Longauille, and ouerseer of the building of this Pallace, vnder King Phillip the faire, with this inscrip∣tion:

Chascun' soit content de ses biens, Qui n'a suffisance iln' a riens.

Be thou content with the goods thee befall, Who hath not enough, hath nothing at all.

This was spoken like a Philosopher: but the same man vnder Lewis Hatinus was hanged for deceiuing the King, and this his Image was broken and kicked downe the staires.

In the Hall of the Pallace is a Marble Table, at which Kings and Emperours were wont to bee feasted. The Chamber of the Pallace where verball appeales are decided, is called, The golden Chamber; and it is adorned with stately and faire arched roofes carued, and pictures, and there the Image of a Lyon, with the Head deiected, and the Tayle drawne in, remembers the Pleaders of their dutie.

Lewis the twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber, and another called the Chamber of Accounts (vulgarly la chambre des comptes.) In this Pal∣lace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis, lyes vpon an arched Chappell, which hath no pillars in the middest, but onely on the sides; and they say, that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin, are vpon the lower dore. And in this Chappell, the reliques are kept, which Balduinus the Emperour of Constanti∣nople ingaged to the Venetians, and the King of France redeemed out of their hands.

In the very Hall of the Pallace, round about the pillars, are shops of small wares or trifles.

Right against the Gate of the Pallace, stood the house of Iohn Chastell, which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne, brought vp among the Iesuites, and a practiser of their wicked doctrine, who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth, did strike out one of his teeth.

I haue said formerly, that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges, and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges, and at this time is ioyned to them both, by the sixth Bridge. The first (V) Bridge towards South-East, leades to the street of Saint Martin, and is called pont de nostre Dame, that is the Bridge of our Lady, and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417, hauing threescore walking paces in length, and eighteene in breadth, and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it. But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight, was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone, with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it, and was paued with stone, so that any that passed it, could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge. The second Bridge of the Broakers (vulgarly (W) Pont au Change) is supported with pillars of wood. The third Bridge of the Millers (vulgarly called (X) Pont aux Musniers) lies to∣wards the North-West, and leades to the streete of Saint Denis, which they say did fall, and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past. By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville. The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South, leades into the streete of Saint Iames, and is called (Y) le petit pont, that is, The little Bridge, being rebuilt or repaired of stone, by King Charles the sixth. The sifth Bridge is called (Z) Saint Michell, and lying towards the South-West side, leades into the streete of Saint Michell, and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers, on the other side of the Iland, and built vpon pillars of wood, was repaired in the yeere 1547, and ador∣ned with bricke houses. By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie. Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre, a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland, which lyes towards the North-West, and it is called (XX) pont neuf, that is, The new Bridge, ioyning the Iland both to the Ville, and to the Vniuersitie. The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges, and the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church, and to the greater Pallace.

The Church (or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church) of Saint Denis (the Protecting Saint of the French) is two little miles distant from Paris. Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis, lying towards the North East.

Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint, in a large Plaine towards the East, hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand, whether I said, that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville, and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin. And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre, and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Mar∣tre.

Vpon this Mountaine they say, that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita, and Rusti∣eus, and Eleutherius, were beheaded in the time of Domitian, because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie. And they constantly beleeue this miracle, that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula, which now is cal∣led Saint Dennis. And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars, set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested (forsooth) with their heades in their hand, and at last fell downe at Catula, where this Church was built ouer them, and likewise a a Monastery, by King Dagobertus, who also lyes there buried, and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery.

Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings, among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other, being of white Marble, with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him. That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene, is of white Marble, but lesse faire; and the third erected to Charles the eight, in a Chappell of the Church, is of blacke Marble, with some statuaes of brasse. To conclude, to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings, one poore monument is ere∣cted. Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings (in my opinion) any thing stately or answerable to the fame. But at the entrance of the Chauncell, the representation of Christ buried, and of the three Kings or Wisemen, and of the shepheards, and others there engrauen, seemed to me (who haue no skill in that Art) to bee of much Art and beautie. I haue read other Itineraries, which relate, that here are bells of most pure Met∣tal, that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer, that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold, that here is a Crosse of Gold, offered by King Dagobert, that the bodies of the Mar∣tyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold, that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer, and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar. But I should thinke, that these old ornaments are taken away, and not to bee seene at this day.

Hauing viewed Paris, I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth, and his Court; and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes, here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake, among the Brokers in the Market place, called the Fripperie. So I tooke my iourney towards the Court, and went by boate vpon the Seyne (which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South) nine leagues to Corbeuile, and foure leagues to Melune, hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines, and I payed seuen soulz for my passage. Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace, called Fon∣tain-bleau, * 5.24 that is, the Fountaine of faire water. Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes. And it is built (with Kingly Magnificence) of Free-stone, diuided into foure Court-yards, with a large Garden, which was then somewhat wild and vnmanured. At this time the Ci∣uill warre being ended, the King began to build a Gallerie, the beginning of which worke was very magnificent.

The next day after I had seene the King, I returned on foote eight leagues to Sone. Heere I found post-Horses returning to Paris, and hiring one of them for twentie soulz, I rode eight miles through fruitfull fieldes of Corne, and pleasant Hilles planted with Vines, and so returned to Paris, entring by the Gate of Saint Victoire in the Vniuersitie.

Now my Crownes which I had saued from the foresaid theeues, were by little and little spent, and I, who in my long iourney had neuer wanted money, but had rather furnished others that wanted with no small sums, was forced to treat with vnknowne Merchants, for taking money vpon exchange. But howsoeuer I had in other places dealt with noble Merchants, yet here I found my selfe to bee fallen into the hands of base and costiue Merchants, who perhaps hauing been deceiued by English Gentle∣men, driuen by want to serue in the warres of France, had not the least respect of mee for my misfortune among Theeues, nor yet for our common Countrey. It happe∣ned, that at this time there were in Paris two English Knighis brethren, namely, Sir Charles and Sir Henry Dauers, who for an ill accident liued then as banished men. And to them I made my misfortune knowne, who like Gentlemen of their qualitie, had a iust feeling thereof, especially for that they were acquainted with Sir Richard Moryson my brother, and they would willingly haue lent mee money.

But I will tell a truth well knowne. These brothers vpon good bonds were to haue receiued some thousands of Crownes a few moneths past in the Temple Hall (which is one of the Innes of Court of London, for those that professe the English Law). This being made knowne by one of the debtors, the Queene confiscated those Crownes, as belonging to banished men. Whereupon these Knightes be∣ing to attend the French King to Lyons in his warre vpon Sauoy, were much dri∣uen to their shiftes, to get money for that iourney. Yet did they not cast off all care

to prouide for me, but with great importunitie perswaded a starueling Merchant, to furnish me with ten French Crownes. When I had receiued them, I spent some few daies in refreshing my selfe at Paris.

They account fortie eight miles from Paris to Roane, whether I went by boat, and payed a French Crowne for my passage. The first day we passed eighteene miles to Poissy, a most faire and famous Nunnerie, and towards the euening wee passed by the Kings Pallace S. Germain. The next day we passed twentie leagues to Andale, and by the way passed by a bridge, diuiding the County of France from the Dutchy of Nor∣mandy, and did see the Pallace Galeon, and a most faire Monastery. Then wee passed foure miles by water to Port S. Antoine, and one mile by land. Then wee hired ano∣ther boat, in which we passed fiue leagues to Roane, and I payed for this passage three soulz. This our way was by pleasant Ilands, hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and fruit-trees.

The Citie of Roane is seated on the North side of the Riuer Seyne, partly in a Plaine, * 5.25 partly vpon sides of Hilles. The building is for the most part of Free-stone, brought from the Citie Cane; and vpon a Hill towards the North without the walles, the Fort S. Cateline was seated, when King Henrie the fourth besieged Roane, and then the Fort much anoyed the quarter of the English auxiliarie forces: but now this Fort was alto∣gether demolished.

Concerning expences of diet in these parts, I spent at Paris in the Innes fifteene soulz each meale, and at Roane twelue soulz, and at some Innes by the way fifteene soulz: but whosoeuer payes for his supper hath nothing to pay for his bed. But before the late Ciuill warre, they payed no more at Roane then eight soulz for a meale. Passen∣gers, who stay long in the Citie, vse to hire a chamber, which at Paris is giuen for two French Crownes by the moneth, if it be well furnished, and otherwise for lesse. They that at Paris hier a chamber in this sort, vse to buy their meate in Cookes shops, and hauing agreed for it, the Cookes bring it to their chamber warme, and with pleasant sauce. And surely all things for diet were cheaper at Paris, then they vse to be at Lon∣don, and since they vse to buy small peeces of meate, a solitarie passenger shall in that re∣spect spend the lesse. Other passengers agree with some Citizen for diet and cham∣ber, which may bee had at Paris in conuenient sort for one hundred and fiftie French Crownes by the yeere; and at Roane for one hundred and twentie: but before the last Ciuill warre, it might haue been had for one hundred, or eightie, and sometimes for sixtie French Crownes. At Roane I now payed for my supper twelue soulz, and the next day eleuen soulz for my dinner.

The night following wee rode fourteene leagues to Diepe, in a most pleasant way, diuided into inclosed Pastures, yeelding great store of Apletrees, not onely in the hed∣ges, but also in the open fieldes. About midnight we tooke some rest and meate in a poore and solitaire Inne of a Village, but with such feare, as wee were ready to flie vpon the least noise. From Roane to Dieppe I hired a horse for thirtie soulz, and in this last Inne I payed twelue soulz for my meate, and fiue soulz for my horse∣meate.

Dieppe is a pleasant Citie, and the greater part thereof (especially la Rue grande, that is the great street) is seated in a plaine vpon the Hauen, but it is compassed with Moun∣taines, * 5.26 and is diuided into two parts by an Arme of the Sea. The greatest part of the building, is of Timber and Clay, like our building of England.

I had spent at Paris most part of the ten Crownes I there receiued, and when I came from Roane, I perceiued that I should presently fall into want of money. Being in these straites, I went to the younger Paynter (one of the English Posts passing betweene Lon∣don and Paris, and now returning in my company to London), and to him in few words I made my case knowne, who willingly yeelded to beare my charges to London, hauing me still in his company for a pledge.

At Dieppe I payed fifteene soulz for each meale, and ten soulz for my licence to passe ouer Sea, and fiue soulz of gift to one of the Officers, and tenne soulz for my part of a boat, hired to draw our ship out of the Hauen of Dieppe.

After we had failed fourteene houres, vpon Tuesday the thirteenth of May (after the old stile) in the yeere 1595, early in the morning, we landed in England at Douer, and I payed a French Crowne for my passage in the ship, and sixe English pence for my pas∣sage in a boate from the ship to that Port of blessed England. But we were fearce lan∣ded, when we were cited to appeare before the Maior and his Assistants. Where for my part the more poore I was in apparrell, the more frowardly I behaued my felte to∣wards them, (as many good mindes are most proud in the lowest fortunes), so as they began to intreate me rudely, as if I were some Popish Priest, till by chance a Gentleman one of the Maiors Assistants asking my name, and being familiarly acquainted with my brother, by priuat discourse with me, vnderstood that I had been robbed in France; whereupon hee gaue his word for mee vnto the Maior, and so walked with mee to our Inne. There he shewed so much respect and loue to me, and after my refusall of mo∣ny from him, so frankely gaue his word for me to the English Post, as he was not only willing to furnish me with what money I would, but himselfe and the Dutch Gentle∣men my Consorts in that iourney, much more respected me, though poorely apparel∣led, then they had formerly done. Assoone as I came to London, I paied the ten French Crownes due by my bill of exchange to the foresaid French Merchant, and not onely payed to the English Post the money hee had disbursed for mee by the way, but gaue him sixe French Crownes of free gift, in thankfulnesse for this courtesie. At London it happened, that (in regard of my robbing in France) when I entered my sisters house in poore habit, a seruant of the house vpon my demaund answered, that my sister was at home: but when he did see me goe vp the staires too boldly (as he thought) without a guide, hee not knowing mee, in respect of my long absence, did furiously and with threatning words call me backe, and surely would haue been rude with me, had I not gone vp faster then he could follow me, and iust as I entred my sisters chamber, he had taken hold on my old cloake, which I willingly flung of, to be rid of him. Then by my sisters imbraces he perceiued who I was, and stole backe as if he had trodden vpon a Snake.

The third Booke.

CHAP. I. Of my iourney to Stoade through the Vnited Prouinces of Netherland, and vpon the Sea-coast of Germany: then to Brunswick and (the right way) to Nurnburg, Augspurg, and Inspruck (in Germany), and from thence to Venice in Italy, and so (by the Mediterranean Seas, and the Ilands thereof) to Ierusalem. In which iourney I slightly passe ouer the places described in my former passage those waies.

FRom my tender youth I had a great desire to see forraine Countries, not to get libertie (which I had in Cambridge in such measure, as I could not well desire more), but to enable my vnderstanding (which I thought could not be done so well by contemplation as by experi∣ence; nor by the eare or any sence so well, as by the eies. And ha∣uing once begun this course, I could not see any man without emu∣lation, and a kind of vertuous enuy, who had seene more Cities, Kingdomes, and Pro∣uinces, or more Courts of Princes, Kings, and Emperours, then my selfe. Therefore hauing now wandred through the greatest part of Europe, and seene the chiefe King∣domes

thereof, I sighed to my selfe in silence, that the Kingdome of Spaine was shut vp from my sight, by the long warre betweene England and Spaine, except I would rashly cast my selfe into danger, which I had already vnaduisedly done, when I viewed the Citie and Fort of Naples, and the Citie of Milan. And howsoeuer now being newly re∣turned home, I thought the going into more remote parts would be of little vse to me, yet I had an itching desire to see Ierusalem, the fountaine of Religion, and Constan∣tinople, of old the seate of Christian Emperours, and now the seate of the Turkish Ottoman.

Being of this mind when I returned into England, it happened that my brother Hen∣rie was then beginning that voyage, hauing to that purpose put out some foure hun∣dred pounds, to be repaied twelue hundred pounds vpon his returne from those two Cities, and to lose it if he died in the iourney. I say he had thus put out the most part of his small estate, which in England is no better with Gentlemens younger sonnes, nor so good, as with bastards in other places, aswell for the English Law most vnmeasura∣bly fauouring elder brothers, as (let me boldly say it) for the ignorant pride of fathers, who to aduance their eldest sonnes, driue the rest to desperate courses, and make them vnable to liue, or to spend any money in getting vnderstanding and experience, so as they being in wants, and yet more miserable by their Gentrie and plentifull education, must needes rush into all vices; for all wise men confesse, that nothing is more contra∣ry to goodnesse, then pouerty. My brother being partner with other Gentlemen in this fortune, thought this putting out of money, to be an honest meanes of gaining, at least the charges of his iourney, and the rather, because it had not then been heard in England, that any man had gone this long iourney by land, nor any like it, excepting on∣ly Master Iohn Wrath, whom I name for honour, and more specially hee thought this gaine most honest and iust; if this iourney were compared with other base aduentures for gaine, which long before this time had been, & were then in vse. And I confesse, that this his resolution did not at the first sight dislike me. For I remembred, that this man∣ner of gaine, had of old been in vse among the inhabitants of the Low-Countries, and the Sea-Coasts of Germany (and so it is yet in vse with them.) I remembred, that no meane Lords, and Lords sonnes, and Gentlemen in our Court had in like sort put out money vpon a horserace, or speedie course of a horse, vnder themselues, yea vpon a iourney on foote. I considered, that those kindes of gaining onely required strength of body, whereas this and the like required also vigor of minde, yea, that they often weakened the body, but this and the like alwaies bettered the mind. I passe ouer infi∣nite examples of the former customes, and will onely adde, that Earles, Lords, Gentle∣men, and all sorts of men, haue vsed time out of mind to put out money to bee repaied with aduantage vpon the birth of their next childe, which kinde of gaine can no way bee compared with the aduentures of long iournies; yea, I will boldly say, it is a base gaine, where a man is so hired to that daliance with his wife, and to kill a man, so he may get a boy, as if he were to be incouraged to a game of Olympus.

Being led with these reasons, I liked his counsell, and made my selfe his consort in that iourny. And I had now giuen out vpon like condition mony to some few friends, when perceiuing the common opinion in this point to be much differing from mine, and thereupon better considering this matter, and obseruing (as a stranger that had beene long out of my Countrey) that these kind of aduentures were growne very fre∣quent, whereof some were vndecent, some ridiculous; and that they were in great part vndertaken by bankerouts, and men ofbase condition. I might easily iudge that in short time they would become disgracefull, whereupon I changed my mind For I re∣membred the Italian Prouerbe, La bellezza di putana, la forza del'fachino, &c. nulla va∣gliano, that is, the beauty of a Harlot, the strength of the Porter, and (to omit many like) Musicke it selfe, and all vertues, become lesse prized in them, who set them out to sale. Also I remembred the pleasant fable, that Iupiter sent raine vpon a Village, wherewith whosoeuer was wet became a foole, which was the lot of all the Inhaitants, excepting one man, who by chance for dispatching of businesse, kept within doores that day; and that when he came abroad in the euening, all the rest mocked him, as if they had beene

wise, and he onely foolish: so as he was forced to pray vnto Iupiter for another like shower, wherein he wetted himselfe also, chusing rather to haue the loue of his foolish neighbours, being a foole, then to be dispised of them, because he was onely wise. And no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion of the common people, with which it is better (regarding onely men) to be foolish, then alone to be wise. I say that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind; and because I could not make that vn∣done which was done, at least I resolued to desist from that course. Onely I gaue out one hundred pound to receiue three hundred at my returne among my brethren, and some few kinsmen and dearest friends, of whom I would not shame to confesse that I receiued so much of gift. And lest by spending vpon the stocke, my patrimony should be wasted, I moreouer gaue out to fiue friends, one hundred pound, with condition that they should haue it if I died, orafter three yeeres should repay it with one hun∣dred and fifty pound gaine if I returned; which I hold a disaduantageous aduenture to the giuer of the money. Neither did I exact this money of any man by sute of Law after my returne, which they willingly and presently paid me, onely some few excep∣ted, who retaining the very money I gaue them, deale not therein so gentleman-like with me, as I did with them. And by the great expences of my iourny, much increased by the ill accidents of my brothers death, and my owne sickenesse, the three hundred fifty pounds I was to receiue of gain after my return; & the one hundred pounds which my brother and I carried in our purses, would not satisfie the fiue hundred pound we had spent, (though my brother died within the compasse of the first yeere); but I was forced to pay the rest out of my owne patrimony.

Gentle Reader I will no longer trouble thee with these trifles: onely in the behalfe of them, who for a reasonable gaine, and vpon long iournies, and not vpon ridiculous aduentures, haue put out their mony in this sort. Giue leaue to me (howsoeuer I desi∣sted from that course) to adde this; All manners of attire came first into the City and Countrey from the Court, which being once receiued by the common people, and by very Stage-players themselues, the Courtiers iustly cast off, and take new fashions, (though somewhat too curiously); and whosoeuer weares the old, men looke vpon him as vpon a picture in Arras hangings. For it is prouerbially said, that we may eate according to our owne appetite, but in our apparell must follow the fashion of the mul∣titude, with whom we liue But in the meane time it is not reproch to any, who of old did were those garments, when they were in fashion. In like sort, many daunces and measures are vsed in Court, but when they come to be vulgar and to be vsed vpon very stages, Courtiers and Gentlemen think them vncomely to be vsed; yet is it no reproch to any man who formerly had skill therein To conclude, (that I may not trouble you with like examples, which are infinite), I say that this manner of giuing out mony vp∣pon these aduentures, was first vsed in Court, and among the very Noble men; and when any of them shewed thereby extraordinary strength, the most censorious appro∣ued it, but when any performed a long iourny, with courage and discretion, no man was found who did not more or lesse commend it, according to the condition of the iourney performed. Now in this age, if bankerouts, Stage-players, and men of base condition, haue drawne this custome into contempt: I grant that Courtiers and Gen∣tlemen haue reason to forbeare it, yet know not why they should be blamed, who haue thus put out their mony in another age, when this custome was approued. A man may iustly say it is great iniustice, that our actions should be measured by opinion, and not by reason; but when a man leaues any custome that hath beene approued, left hee should oppose himselfe to the common people, a monster of many heads, the most en∣uious hath nothing whereat they may iustly carpe. And if any measure may be impo∣sed to detracters, surely they must spare them, who vndertake long voyages, ful of great dangers who doe not put out their money in Tauernes, or at feasts to any man with∣out distinction, but dispose of their money with their friends vpon reasonable aduen∣ture of gaine, (which in absence they cannot otherwise dispose to profit): Finally who being not rich by patrimony, take these iournies onely for experience, and to be ina∣bled to that expence, doe condition this reasonable gaine. I say the detracters must

spare these, and distinguish them from others, who make cursorie iournies, without any desire to better their vnderstanding thereby, and more from those, who in these courses rather make triall of their bodies strength, then of their mindes abilitie. And most of all from those, who expose themselues to the scorne of men, by base and ridi∣culous aduentures, or that little differ from selfe-murtherers, in vndertaking desperate actions for gaine.

In the same yere 1595; wherein (some few months past) I returned into England from my former iourney, I now set forth againe towards Ierusalem, and vpon the twentie * 5.27 nine of Nouember (after the old stile), I and my brother consort of my iourney, went by water twentie miles (which are seuenteene miles by land) from London to Graues∣end, in a boat with two Oares, for which we payed two shillings sixe Pence. At last the winde seruing vs, vpon the seuenth of December in the euening, we set saile at an eb∣bing water, and vpon the eighth of December in the afternoon, hauing passed the Ri∣uer Thames, wee cast anchor, vpon the shoare of England, right before the Village Margets.

Then in the twilight of the euening, wee put to Sea, and the ninth of December en∣tring the narrow Sea of Zealand, vpon our call a boat came out of Vlishing to vs, in which we went thither, leauing our ship, which went forward to Midleburg, and each man paying a doller for his passage. The eleuenth of December we walked on foot one mile to Midleburge, where being inuited by our friends (as we were at Vlishing) we sup∣ped on free cost. The twelfth day wee passed by Sea in two houres space to Armu∣ren, where wee cast anchor not without feare of Spanish Pirats, who comming with small boates out of the Castle Wouda, did then many robberies vpon this Sea. The thirteenth day in the morning, wee sailed nine miles to the Iland Plat, where a Man of warre, sent out by the States against these Pirats, did lie at anchor, vnder the guard whereof we also lay at anchor the night following. The fourteenth day in the mor∣ning, hauing alwaies a faire winde, wee sailed eight milcs to Delphs hauen in Holland, where we left our Barke, and each man payed twelue stiuers for his passage, and my selfe gaue three stiuers to a Marriner that had attended me. From hence my selfe and three consorts, hired a Wagon for 18 stiuers to the Hage, where I payed for my sup∣per a Flemish guilden and seuenteene stiuers. The fiftenth day of December (which after the new stile was Christmas day, that Feast by the old stile falling on the twentie fiue of December) my selfe and three consorts hired a Wagon for two guldens, for two long miles to Leyden. From Leyden at a set hower euery day, boates passe to all the next Cities, and we entring the boat that went for Amsterdam, payed each of vs 6 stiuers for our passage. First, wee passed fiue miles vpon the Lake called Harlam Meare, which Lake is much subiect to Tempests. Our boate was then drawne by force of hands ouer a Damme into a Channell of water, in which we passed two miles, and so came to Amsterdam. The boates are thus drawne out of the Lake into the Channell, by a pri∣uiledge granted to Harlam, because that Citie had spent much money in the workes for conueyance of waters. And this was granted to them, to the ende, that this passage being shut vp to Barkes of greater burthen, the Merchants wares passing by land, should be forced to come by Harlam. We lodged in a English Merchants house at Amsterdam, and payed eight stiuers for each meale.

The seuenteenth of December we entred a little ship, to saile out of Holland into West-Freesland: but being almost frozen in with yce, after wee had sailed two dayes and a night (with great danger) through huge pieces of yce, and were the second night also compassed therewith, and had been forced to lie at anchor a good space, we hardly ar∣riued the third day at Horne in North-Holland, which Citie is fiue miles distant from Amsterdam and each man payed ten stiuers for our passage, and two stiuers for the vse of a little cabbin in the ship. The ninteenth day we would needs go on foot two miles (as long as ten English miles), to Enchnsen, because they asked foure guldens and a half for a Wagon. And in the mid way it hapned that we light vpon a sledg, which wee 4 consorts hired for 20 stiuers, and therin wee were all carried, but for my part I paied 5 stiuers more for the cariage of my necessaries. And we could not sufficiently maruell

at our first setting forth, that the Villages should be so frequent, in such an obscure Countrey, as wee could hardly see how they were parted one from the other, for halfe the way at least. From hence we sailed with a very faire wind, in three houres space two miles to Stauern, a Village seated in West-Freezland, and each man paid ten stiuers for his passage, foure for his supper, and foure for beere.

The next day we passed on foot one mile of Freezland, (which miles are exceeding long) to Warcome, and we hired two Clownes for two guldens, to carry our necessaries, which Clownes drinking stoutly all the night, we were forced beyond our bargaine to pay for their intemperance, which wrong we could not auoid, though we much repi∣ned at it. Early in the morning we passed by water one mile ouer a Lake to Bolsworth, and each man paid two stiuers and a halfe for his passage, and eight stiuers and a halfe for his dinner. In the afternoone we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden, and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage, and thirty foure stiuers for his supper and breake∣fast, with wine. The next day in the morning, we might haue passed to Groning, in a common boat, each man paying twelue stiuers: but because the couetous Marriners had ouerloaded it, and the winds were boisterous, we foure consorts hired a priuate boate for seuen guldens and a halfe. The first day we passed by water fiue miles, to Kaltherberg, that is, the cold Inne, with a very faire wind; but so boysterous, as we were in no small feare. Here each man paid twelue stiuers for his supper, and seuen stiuers for his drinke, while in good fellowship we sate at the fier after supper. The next day we passed in the same boat two miles to Groning, in a great tempest of wind; besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder, being thereby in great danger, had not the waues of the water (by Gods mercy) driuen it to vs. Here we paid eight stiuers each man for a plentifull dinner, but without wine. In the afternoone we passed by water two miles to Delphs Ile, and each man paid forty stiuers for the hier of the boate, and twenty foure stiuers for supper and breakefast, and fire in our priuate chamber.

From hence we sayled with a most faire wind, in two houres space two miles to Em∣den, the first City of the German Empire, seated in East-Friezland, and each man paid sixe stiuers for his passage, and as much for his dinner. In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for foure guldens (whereof each man paid ten stiuers for his part) three miles to a little City Lyre, and by the way passed by the Fort Nordlire, in which the Earle of Emden held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the next day, being Christmas day by the old stile, and each man paid sixteene stiuers for each supper, and eight stiuers for one dinner. The Spanish Garisons daily sent out free-booters into these parts, with the permission of the Earle of Emden, (for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden, who lately had shut him out of their City); and of the Earle of Oldenburge (for his hatred against the Citizens of Breme). Therefore we being here many passen∣gers, did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden, that we might hier his souldiers to con∣duct vs safely for some few miles. To these souldiers we gaue twenty one dollers, yet when at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen, and were now in the greatest danger, they (as hired to goe no further) would needes returne, till each of vs gaue them a German gulden, to conduct vs onely to the next village, being the con∣fines of the Counties of Emdens and Oldenburg. To which they were perswaded, not so much by our prayers as by our reward, and once by the way, to make shew of dan∣ger (as it seemed to me lest we should repent vs of the money we had giuen them, they rushed into some old houses, with such a noise, as if they would haue killed al they met, but no enemy appeared, & if they had lurked there, I think they would not haue fought with the Earles souldiers who fauoured them, as on the other side, if they had assaulted them, I doubt whether our mercinary souldiers would haue lost one dram of blood for our safety. As long as these souldiers were with vs, we partly went by water, (each man paying 3. stiuers for his passage) & partly on foot. They being now dismissed, we went on foot a Dutch mile, in the Territory of the Earle of Oldenburg, to the Village Aopen, where each man paid foure stiuers for his dinner. In the afternoone, we being many consorts, hired diners waggons, paying for each of them twenty fiue stiuers to Olden∣burg, being foure miles, and we came thither by nine of the clock in the night, and there

each man paid fifteene groates for his supper and breakefast. The second day in the morning we went foure miles to Dolmenhurst, and each man paid two copstucks for his Waggon. Then sixe of vs hired a Waggon one mile to Breme for three copstucks, where each man paid foureteene lubecke shillings for his supper and breakefast.

From hence eleuen of vs hired two Waggons to Stoade, for which each of vs paid thirty lubecke shillings. The first day we went foure miles to a poore Village, where each of vs paid fiue lubecke shillings for our suppers. And hauing rested here somefew houres vpon straw, we went before the breake of day three miles to Foard, and making no stay there, passed three miles further to Stoade.

Hence fiue of vs hired a Coach for fiue dollers, to Luneburg ten miles distant, and the first day in the afternoone we went three miles to Alte-kloster, that is; the old Cloy∣ster, which was seated in the Bishoppricke of Breme, and the next day one mile in the same Bishoppricke, and sixe in the Duke of Luneburgs territory, and so we came to Lu∣neburg; but the horses being weary, and the iourny long, we came so late in the night, as we were forced to lodge without the gates, where each man paid fiue lubecke shil∣lings for his supper, three for his breakefast, and fiue for beere. The next day we en∣tered Luneburge, where each man paid foure lubecke shillings and a halfe for his dinner.

From hence foure of vs hired a Coach for seuen dollers to Brunswicke, being sixteen miles distant, the Coach-man paying for his horses meat, and we for his owne meat. The same day in the afternoone, we passed fiue miles in sixe houres space to Sawerburg, where each of vs paid (for our owne supper, with our part of the Coach-mans supper) seuen lubecke shillings. The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to Ow∣sen, where each man paid in like sort fiue lubecke shillings for our dinner. In the after∣noone we passed three miles to Gethurne, where the Duke of Luneburg hath a Castle (which the Dutch call Schlosse); where for ours and the Coach-mans supper and break∣fast, we foure English consorts paid a doller and twelue stiuers. The third day in the morning, we passed foure miles to Brunswicke, where in like sort we foure paied for our owne and the Coach-mans beuer, supper, and dinner, two dollers and a halfe.

From hence sixe consorts of vs hired a Coach forthirty dollers to Nurnberg, forty eight miles distant, and the coach-man paid for his horse-meat, and we for his owne meat, which hereafter diuided among vs I will reckon in our seureall expences. The first day at ten of the clocke beginning our iourney, we passed through fruitfull hils of corne one mile, where we left on our left hand Wolfenbeyten, (a City where the Duke of Brunswicke keepes his Court), with a Village belonging to his brother the Bishop of Ossenbruck. And there we met with certaine of the Dukes hors-men, who kept the waies safe from theeues, and at their request we bestowed on them an Ort or fourth part of a doller. Then in the like way we passed two miles and a halfe to Rauchell, where each of vs paid for ours and the Coach-mans supper fiue filuer groshen. The second day in the morning we passed three miles and a halfe to Halberstatt, where each man paid in like sort for ours and the Coach-mans dinner halfe a doller. Our iourny this day was through fruitfull hils of corne, not inclosed, and groues and woods in a fruitfull and pleasant Country. The Duke of Brunswicke is called the Administrator of the Bishop∣pricke of Halberstatt, and hath the rents thereof. After dinner we passed one mile to Ermersteben, subiect to the Duke of Brunswicke, through a plaine more pleasant then the former, hauing no inclosures, but being fruitfull in corne, and full of Villages; where wee foure English consorts paid twenty three siluer groshen for our owne and the Coach-mans supper. I haue omitted the quality of the soyle, in places which I haue formerly discribed, which now I mention againe, because this is the first time I passed from Brunswicke to Nurnburg. The third day in the morning we passed in a dir∣ty way (but through most pleasant hils, and fruitfull of corne, but hauing no woods, nor so much as a tree,) two miles to Mansfield.

The Counts of Man field well knowne Captaines in the warres of the Low-Coun∣tries and Hungary, haue their name from this Castle and Village, and this territory, (hauing besides some twelue Castles) being not sufficient to maintaine the great num∣ber

of them, they were forced to seeke aduancement by the warres. The Citizens of Mansfield were of old very rich by the Mines of this territory, but at this time they had scarce bread to eat, the Counts hauing ingaged these mines to the Fugari of Augs∣burg, and to some Citizens of Nurnburg. Some of these mines yeeld gold, but so spa∣ringly, as it scarce quits the cost. Others yeeld siluer, and the very mines of Copper in each hundred yeeld twenty lot (that is halfe ounces) of siluer. Of these mines some are two hundred Clafters (that is fathoms) deepe vnder the earth. And these mines of the mountaine are borne vp with pillars and buildings of wood vnder the earth, lest it should fall vpon the workmen. They say that these mines yeeld yeerly one hundred & forty thousand dutch guldens, besides the expences. At this time three officers liued in the Castle, who receiued the profits of the mines for those to whom they were in∣gaged, whereof one receiued fiue parts, the other three, the third onely one part. Moreouer here be wonderfull stones in the quarries, which broken into neuer so ma∣ny parts, haue still the liuely figure of diuers things. Our Hoste shewed vs some of them, which had throughout the figures of diuers fishes in a Lake adioining, this stone of one fish, that of another, and so of all the kinds. And he shewed vs one that had throughout the figure of Christ crucified, another that had the figure of the Popes triple Crowne, and another that had the liuely figure of Luther. Surely the Ger∣mans are accounted no iuglers, nor liers; and if they would haue deceiued vs, yet I can∣not see how our eyes should be deceiued, seeing many of them broken, and stil hauing the same figure. This poore Village (yet pleasant for the seat) was of old a City, and at this time the houses were couered (as they be in many parts of Germany) not with tiles of bricke, but with like peeces of wood. Here each of vs paid a quarter of a doller for our owne and the Coach-mans dinner.

In the afternoone we passed a dirty way; but through fruitfull corne fields, foure miles to Sangerhausen, where each of vs in like sort paid the fourth part of a doller and a grosh for our supper. This being the first Village of the Prouince Thuring, belongs to the Elector of Saxony. The fourth day in the morning wee passed through most pleasant & fruitfull hils of corne, adorned with some pleasant woods, (which in high∣er Germany are of firre, that is greene all winter,) foure miles in the territory of the Ele∣ctor of Saxony, to a Countrey Inne; where hauing nothing but egges for our dinner, we paid iointly ten siluer grosh. After dinner we passed in the same Electors territory, and through the like soyle (or Countrey) three miles and a halfe to a Countrey Inne, where we had to supper a pudding as big as a mans legge, and grosse meat, and straw for our beds; and iointly paid foureteene grosh. The fifth day early in the morning we passed-through the like way, but more pleasant for the plenty of Vines, two miles to the City of Erfurt, where we foure English consorts with our Coach-man paied iointly a doller and twenty one grosh for our dinner, with sower wine of the Coun∣trey. This City is seated in a plaine, and is a free City, but not an imperiall City, and paies some tribute to the Bishop of Metz, and to the Saxon Duke of Wineberg. It is large, being a Dutch mile in compasse, but the houses are poorely built of timber and clay, hauing the roofes couered with tiles of wood, and they seeme to be built of old. It hath forty two Churches, but onely sixteene are vsed for diuine seruice: namely, eight for the Papists, (among which are the two Cathedrall Churches, vnder the power of the Archbishop of Metz,) and eight for the Protestants or Lutherans. This is the chiefe City of Thuring, and of old here was an Vniuersity, but time hath dissol∣ued it. After dinner at the first going out of the City, wee ascended a very high mountaine, whereupon is a pleasant wood of firre. Then we passed by the beautifull little City of Armstat, I call it beautifull, for the seate in a firtile soyle, hauing drie and pleasant walkes, and for the plenty of fountaines and groaues, and for the magnifi∣cence of the Castle, wherein the Count of Schwartzburg keepes his Court, finally for the vniforme building of the City, which some fifteene yeeres past was burnt to the ground, and was since rebuilded, and so comming from Erfurt, we passed three long miles to the Village Blaw, subiect to the Count of Schwartzburg; where iointly we paid foureteene grosh for our supper. The sixth day we passed three miles through

wooddy mountaines, to the Village Fraw-im-Wald, (that is, our Lady in the wood), which Village is subiect to the said Count; and here we paid iointly thirty seuen grosh and a halfe for our dinner. After dinner wee passed three miles through mountaines couered with snow, and woods of firre to Eysfield, subiect to the Saxon Duke of Co∣burg. For this wood of Thuring, (vulgarly called Thuringwald) hath many Lords, namely, the Elector of Saxony, the Saxon Dukes of Wineberg & Coburg, and the Count Schwartzburg The Duke of Coburg hath in this place a faire Castle, and we paid ioint∣ly for vs foure and the Coach-man sixty foure grosh for our supper and breakefast. The seuenth day in the morning we passed three miles ouer dirty mountaines, and fruitfull in corne, to Coburg seated in the Prouince of Franconia. They say this City was of old called Cotburg, that is, the City of dirt, and the dirty streetes well deserue the name. Here one of the Dukes of Saxony called of Coburg kept his Court, and our Host told vs that his Dutchesse for adultery was then bricked vp in a wall, the place being so narrow, as shee could onely stand, and hauing no dore, but onely a hole whereat they gaue her meat. The building of the City was very base of timber and clay. Here we fiue paid sixteene grosh for our dinner. In the afternoone we passed two miles, to the Towne Clawsen, through fruitfull hils of corne, and in a most dirty way, where we fiue paid forty nine grosh for our supper; and the Towne is subiect to the Popish Bi∣shop of Bamberg. The eight day we passed foure miles to Bamberg, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, and pleasant hils planted with vines, and in a most dirty way. This City is the seate of the Bishop of Bamberg. By the way we passed by a Ferry the Riuer Manus, running to Franckfort. Here we fiue paid thirty seuen grosh for our dinner. In the afternoone we passed through a wood of firre in a sandy soyle, and then through fruitfull fields of corne and pleasant hils, three mile vnto a Village subiect to the Mar∣graue of Anspach, (from which a City subiect to the Bishop of Bamberg, is not farre distant, for the Princes dominions in these parts are mingled one with the other); and here we fiue paid fifty fiue grosh for our supper. The ninth day we passed three miles through a sandy and barren plaine, and woods of firre alwaies greene, to a Village subiect to the said Margraue, where we fiue paid forty grosh for our dinner. In the af∣ternoone we passed three miles, through the like way, to Nurnburg, and being now free from paying for our Coach-man, each of vs paid here six batzen each meale, and foure creitzers each day for our chamber. This City I haue formerly discribed, and so passe it ouer.

Here we hired a Coach, being seuen consorts, for twelue Dutch guldens, to Augs∣burg, being nineteene miles distant. The first day after breakefast we passed through Nurnburg wood two miles, and in the said Margraues territory (who is of the Family of the Electors of Brandeburg,) foure miles to Blinfield; and each of vs paid ten batzen for our supper, and foure batzen for a banquet after supper. The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to the City Monheyme, subiect to the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine, and here each of vs paid halfe a gulden for his dinner. By the way, in this mornings iourney, we did see Weyssenburg, a free but not imperiall City, protected by Nurnburg. The Margraue of Anspach, Lord of this territory, hath a Fort built vpon a Mountaine, that hangs ouer this free City, which when he did build, the Citizens complained to the Emperour; and they say that how soeuer they brought the Empe∣rours Mandate to desist from the worke, yet he would not obey the same. The rest of our iourny to Monheyme, was in the territory of the Baron of Papenheym, in a dirty way, through many woods. And in a village subiect to that Baron, we had a guide and two fresh horses for our Coach, and for them our Coach-man paid sixe batzen. After dinner we passed three miles through a wood, and fruitfull hils of corne, to the City Donwerd, being a faire imperiall City, which I haue formerly described, and here each man paid sixe batzen for his supper. Now we were come out of Franconio, and began to enter into Suenia. The third day we passed three miles, through fruitfull fields of corne, and woods of firre, to a Village, where each man paid eight batzen for his dinner. In the afternoone we passed through likeway, three miles to Augsburg, where each man paid seuen batzen for each meale. I passe ouer this City, which I haue discribed before.

Heere we agreed with the Carrier of Augsburg, who by course that weeke went to Venice, that each of vs should pay him seuenteene Crownes, (each Crowne worth twentie two batzen), and that he not onely should find euery man a horse, and pay for the horses meate, but also should pay for our diet. And heere I gained this by my Dutch Language, that making the bargaine with him for one of my Countrimen, who could not speake Dutch, when wee came to Venice, and hee hauing no mony, could not pay the Carrier, I had no remedie but to pay those Crownes for him, to which the Law would haue compelled me, as the maker of the bargaine, if I had not rather chosen willingly to doe it. See how ignorance may sometimes aduantage, and skill may preiudice a man.

We began this iourney in the afternoone, and the first day through a Heath, and in the Territorie of the Duke of Bauaria from the very Gates of Augsburg, wee rode sixe miles to an Inne neere Landsperg. The second day in the morning, through fruit∣full Hilles and Woods of Firre, greene at this time of the yeere, we rode foure miles to Schongaw, and after dinner through Mountaines couered with snow, foure miles to Amberg. The third day in the morning we rode two miles to the Village Warten ker∣ken, and after dinner sixe short miles to Seyfeld, and in the midest of the way a Bridge diuides the Dukedome of Bauaria from the County of Tyrall. At Seyfeld there is a Church built in memory of a Gentleman, swallowed vp by the gaping earth (as they say) because being to receiue the Sacrament, hee demaunded in scoffe a great piece of bread. The fourth day in the morning, wee rode three miles to Inspruck, the chiefe Citie of Tyrall, subiect to the Familie of Austria, where being at the top of the Alpes, the Mountaines beganne to open towardes the South, and our mornings iourney was in a pleasant Plaine betweene the highest Mountaines. Passing this plaine, they shewed vs vpon a high Mountaine (so high as we could scarce discerne the things they shewed, though of great bignesse); I say, they shewed vs the statua of the Emperour Maximiltan, proportionable to his body, and a great Crucifix erected by him vpon this occasion. One day when he hunted, and wandring from his compa∣ny, lost himselfe, so as he had no hope to get out of those most thick woods, and most high Mountaines, there appeared to him a man, or (as they said) his good Angell, who led him through wilde vast Woods, till he came in safetie, and then vanished away, in memorie whereof, they say the Emperour erected these monuments.

In this Citie of Inspruck, and in the Cathedrall Church thereof, is the Sepulcher of the said Emperour, and there be many Images partly of Brasse, partly of Marble ere∣cted * 5.28 to the Archdukes of Austria, and eight of Brasse erected to the Arch-Dutchesses. Among them was the sepulcher of Philippina, a Citizens Daughter of Augsburg, whom the Arch-Duke Ferdinand (lately buried, and lying in a Chappell without any sepulcher as then erected to him) tooke for his Wife, but with a coucnant (as they say) that her children should not inherit as Arch-dukes of Austria.

From hence wee rode in the afternoone betweene Mountaines, descending into Italy, and lying towards the South Sunne, foure miles and a halfe of most pleasant way to Lueg. The fifth day we passed the Mountaine Bremer, and rode two miles and a halfe to Sterzen, subiect to the Cardinall of Brixia, one of the Family of the Arch-Dukes of Austria at Inspruck. The Mountaine Bremer is more then a Dutch mile high, yet nothing steepe; this way from Augsburg to Venice, being for the most part through pleasant Vallyes, in the middest of Mountaines, and so winding ouer the Mountaines, as the passage is very easie. Here my brother Henrie falling sicke, I delt with the car∣rier, that we paying him three guldins and a halfe for the common charge of his com∣panies supper, he would there stay for vs till the next morning, and this likewise I ob∣tained of our consorts with more ease, because they were to diet at the Carriers charge. The sixth day we rode three miles to a Village not farre distant from Brixia, where the said Cardinall held his Court, this way being all through woody Mountaines. Af∣ter dinner we rode three miles in the said Cardinals Territorie, (through Mountaines, and Hilles planted with Vines, and lying towards the South Sunne) to Clausy. The seuenth day we rode foure miles (in a straight way betweene Rockes with pleasant

Orchards of Pomgranats, and other Italian fruites, lying on both sides) to 〈◊〉〈◊〉, which the Dutch call Pozen. And after dinner we began to leaue the Alpes on our backe, and rode three miles to Newmart, through Woods of Firre, in a Plaine more and more inlarging it selfe, and planted after the Lombard fashion, with Elme trees set in the surrowes of Corne-fieldes, and Vines growing vp high vpon the Elmes. The eighth day wee rode by the banke of the Riuer Athesis to Trent, three miles in the County Tyroll, within the Dutch Empire, and one Dutch mile in Italy.

The Citie Trent is seated in length from a Mountaine on the East side, to another on the West side, and the Riuer Athesis (which the Dutch call Esh) runnes by the City * 5.29 on the North side. The Citie is famous by a late Councell held there, and the Arch-Duke of Austria at Inspruck hath his Officer there, to gather Tributes belonging to him. And the Cardinall Madrucci (lame of an arme and foote, but reputed eloquent) hath some priuiledges in this Citie for the administration of Iustice, and otherwise: for the command of the Citie belongs to the Family of Madrucci, being Gentlemen. Af∣ter dinner we entered the Mountaines againe, where wee walked ouer a way paued with Flint (which the Dutch call Plat) and did leade our horses in our hands, the way being very slipperie, and so we rode one most long Dutch mile to Bersena. The ninth day we rode three most long miles to Bergo, I meane Dutch miles, for I had no other companions but Dutch, who reckon the way after their owne miles. This day wee passed infamous places for robberies, especially one, where 5 waies leade to 5 wood∣die Mountaines; and here we did see theeues, being our selues in safetie, they hauing no meanes to come to vs, in a Plaine so couered with snow, that our Horses were vpto the saddles therein, and could hardly passe the high way. After dinner we rode two most long Dutch miles to Griguo. The tenth day we rode two Dutch miles to Primo∣lano, the first Village in the State of Venice: but from the foresaid confines of the Em∣pire to this place, all the Territorie belonged to diners Gentlemen, neither subiect to the Empire, nor to the State of Venice, but liuing free, onely acknowledging to hold their land from the Arch-Dukes of Austria. Also beyond Primolane (subiect to the State of Venice), there is a Fort built betweene a narrow passage of two Mountaines, which Fort is very little, but hangeth ouer the high way, being built on the side of a Mountaine, and this Fort is kept by Dutch Souldiers. It hath no Gate, but they that will goe forth, must be let downe by a rope, and they that will enter it, must in like sort be drawne vp. Moreouer before dinner we rode from Primolano; one Dutch mile to Carpanella, and at our setting forth from Primolan, wee passed ouer a Bridge, vnder which was little water for the present: but when the snow melts from the Mountaines, or any great raine falles, the waters there are high and violent, and some moneth past, when the Carrier of Augspurg and his consorts could no way passe the same, they told vs, that an English Gentleman impatient of delay, and trying to passe the same, was drowned, and that his body was found after somefew daies, when it had been spoiled of a gold chaine and store of Crownes, they being vnknowne who got this bootie, and that he was at first buried in a Chappell, but after taken vp by the Priests, and buried in the high way, when they heard he was an Englishman, and thereupon suspected him to be an heritike. For the building of this bridge each of vs payed two creitzers in the next Village. In our mornings iourney the way was narrow, betweene Mountaines, and we might see and heare Mountaines of dissolued snow, drawing with them huge stones, to fall with great noise into the high way before vs, and into other adioyning Vallyes. After dinner we rode through a plane tilled after the manner of Lombardy, three Dutch miles and a halfe, to the Castle Franco. The twelfth day we rode three Dutch miles to the Citie Treuigi, through a like Plaine. After dinner (for I haue for∣merly described Treuigi) we rode two Dutch miles, or ten Italian miles, through a like Plaine to Mestre. From hence we passed by water to Venice being fiue miles, first in a Ditch, each man paying one soldo for his passage, then in other boats ouer the Lakes wherewith Venice is compassed, each man paying three soldi for his passage. I omit to speake any thing of Venice, which I haue formerly described.

We being now to take our purposed iourney into the Turkes Dominions, thought

it best, first to goe to Constantinople, where the English Ambassadour giuing vs a Iani∣zare * 5.30 for our guide, we hoped the rest of our iourney would be pleasant, and void of all trouble. For this Ianizare, aswell for their wonted faithfulnesse to those that giue them wages, as for the account he was to make of our safetie to the said Ambassadour, no doubt would haue been a faithfull guide to vs. But when we inquired of the way from Raguza to Constantinople by land, all the Postes and Messengers passing that way, told vs, that the warre of Hungarie made all those parts full of tragedies and miserie. Then we thought to goe by Sea to Constantinople: but when wee heard that no ship would be had in three moneths at least, that long delay was hatefull to vs. Too late, af∣ter my returne, by experience in my iourney, and conference, I found a third way, namely by Sea from Venice to Zant, and from that Iland (taking the Councell of the English Merchants there) to Petrasso, (seated vpon the Corinthian Creeke of the Sea, in Peloponesus, a Prouince of Greece, called by the Turkes Morea), then to take a Iani∣zare from the English Consul there residing, and with him to passe by land to Athens, and by Sea in little Barkes from thence to Constantinople. The fourth way was not vnknowne to vs, namely, to goe by Sea to Cyprus (as wee did), and in the same ship to haue passed to Scanderona, and there taking a Ianizare from the English Factor, maintained there by our Merchants of Haleppo, to haue passed vnder his conduct by Sea to Ierusalem. Or else to haue gone from Scanderona to Haleppo, and there taking a Ianizare of the English Consul, and obtaining letters from the Italians, to recom∣mend the care of vs and our safetie to the Guardian of the Monastery of the Latin Church in Ierusalem (which our Merchants would easily haue obtained for vs) to haue passed from thence by land to Ierusalem. But when wee imparted at Cyprus this our purpose to the Consorts of our iourney from Venice thither, who were then hiring a Barke to passe from Ciprus to Ioppa, whence they had but fortie miles to Ierusalem, they were very desirous of our company, and with great earnestnesse gaue vs confi∣dence, that they would procure the said Guardian and Fryers at Ierusalem to doe vs all courtesie in their power, and so perswaded vs to commit our selues to their company and protection. I will adde for the instruction of others, that the said Ianizare vseth to be hired for eight Aspers a day, and if he take this charge of any mans safetie from an Ambassadour, or any Christian Officer of account, hee will easily saue a man more then his wages, in gouerning his expences, and keeping him from those extortions, which the Turkes vse to doe vpon Christians, as also from all their iniuries. But I re∣turne to the purpose; We lying at Venice, and while our health was yet sound, and our Crownes vnspent, desiring with all possible speede to finish our voyage into Turky, did by good hap light vpon French consorts for our iourney, namely, two Franciscan Friers, one Eremitan Frier, and two honest young Frenchmen, both Citizens of Bloys in France, and one of them a Burgers sonne, the other a Notarie of the Citie, and lastly a Flemming or Dutchman, Citizen of Emden in East Freezeland. This Fleming was a fat man, borne to consume victuals, & he had now spent in his iourny to Venice thirty pound sterling, and here for his iourney to Ierusalem had already put into the ship full Hogs-heads of Wine, and store of all victuals, when suddenly he changed his minde, for feare of a great Rhume wherewith he was troubled, or being discouraged with the difficulty of the iourney, and would needs returne to Emden, with purpose (if hee were to be belieued) to returne the next Spring to some place neere Ierusalem, in an English ship, which he thought more commodious. He professed, that he had put much mo∣ney out vpon his returne, and since hee was old, and very sickly, and after so long a iourney, and so much money spent, would needes returne home, I cannot thinke that he euer vndertooke this iourney againe.

Many Papists thinke they must haue the Popes Licence to goe this iourney, and Villamont a French Gentlemen writes, that otherwise they incurre the censure of the Church, and affirmes that the Pope writ vnder his licence these words; Fiat quod pe∣titar, that is, let that be granted which is craued, and vnder the remission of his sinnes, Fiat Faelix, that is; Let him be made happy: And he addes, that he was forced to take as much paines, and to spend as much, and to vse as much helpe of the Popes Offi∣cers,

for the obtaining of these two sutes, as if he had beene a suter for a Bishoppricke. But I know many Papists, that haue gone from Venice to Hierusalem, who either cared not for this licence, or neuer thought vpon it; and how soeuer it may giue some credu∣lous men hope of fuller indulgence or merit, surely it will serue them for no other vse. Among our consorts I neuer heard any mention thereof, neither did the Friars at Ie∣rusalem inquire after it. When I first began to thinke of vndertaking this iourney, it was told me that each Ascension day, a Venetian gally was set forth to carry Pilgrimes to Ierusalem. But it seemes that this custome is growne out of vse, since few are found in these daies who vndertake this iourney, in regard of the Turkes imposing great ex∣actions, and doing foule iniuries to them. For the very Friars, which euery third yeere are sent into those parts, to doe diuine duties to the Papist Merchants there abiding; (the Friars formerly sent being recalled), vse to passe in no other then common Mer∣chants ships.

In the end of March we had the opportunity of a ship passing into Asia, (which at that time of the yeere is not rare). This ship was called the lesse Lyon, and the Ma∣ster, (whom the Italians cal Patrono) was Constantine Coluri a Grecian, (as most part of the Marriners are Greekes, the Italians abhorring from being sea men): Concerning diet, some agreed with the Steward of the ship (called Ilscalco) and they paid by the moneth foure siluer crownes, (each crowne at seuen lyres), and I marked their Table was poorely scrued. For our part we agreed with the Master himselfe, who for seuen gold crownes by the month paid by each of vs, did curteously admit vs to his Table, and gaue vs good diet, seruing each man with his knife and spoone, and his forke (to hold the meat whiles he cuts it, for they hold it ill manners that one should touch the meat with his hand), and with a glasse or cup to drinke in peculiar to himselfe. Hee gaue vs wine mingled with water, and fresh bread for two or three daies after we came out of any harbour, and otherwise bisket, which we made soft by soaking it in wine or water. In like sort, at first setting forth he gaue vs fresh meates of flesh, and after salted meates, and vpon fasting dayes he gaue vs egges, fishes of diuers kinds, dried or pick∣led, sallets, sod Rice, and pulse of diuers kinds; Oyle in stead of butter, Nuts, fruit, Cheese, and like things. Also we agreed that if our iourney were ended before the moneth expired, a rateable proportion of our money should be abated to vs. Each of vs for his passage agreed to pay fiue siluer crownes of Italy. And howsoeuer, I thinke they would not haue denied vs wine, or meat betweene meales, if we had beene drie or hungry; yet to auoide troubling of them, my selfe and my brother carried some flaggons of rich wine, some very white bisket, some pruines and raisins, and like things. And to comfort our stomackes in case of weakenesse, we carried ginger, nut∣megs, and some like things; and for remedies against agues, we carried some cooling sirops, and some pounds of sugar, and some laxatiue medicines. Also we carried with vs two chests, not onely to lay vp these things, but also that we might sleepe and rest vpon them at pleasure, and two woollen little mattresses to lie vpon, and foure quilts to couer vs, and to lay vnder vs, which mattresses and quilts we carried after by land, or else we should haue beene farre worse lodged in the houses of Turkes: besides that many times we lay in the field vnder the starry cannopy. In stead of sheetes we vsed linnen breeches, which we might change at pleasure.

Howsoeuer all Nations may vse their owne apparell in Turky, yet the clothes of Eu∣rope, and especially the short clokes, are most offensiue to them, so as the wearer pro∣uoketh them thereby to doe him iniuries. Therefore my selfe and my brother bought each of vs a long coat, of as course stuffe as we could find, & a long gowne of a course and rough frize. Our swords, daggers, and European garments, we left in our chests, with a Flemmish Merchant lying at Venice, to be kept against our returne and howso∣euer he falling banckerout, left the City before that time, yet our goods were by the publike Officer laid apart, and readily deliuered to vs at our returne.

Whereas we left our swords at Venice, know that no Turkes, (and much lesse Chri∣stians) carry any Armes, except when they goe some iourney, and that we were not ignorant, that howsoeuer Christians may defend themselues from theeues by the high

way, yet it was hard to distinguish betweene the Turkes violent extortions, with the iniuries of them, and the Ianizares by the high waies, and flatrobberies by theeues, and that whosoeuer should draw a sword or a knife against these men, or any Turke scoffing and defpising him, should be sure to die an ill death by publike Iustice (which notwithstanding I know not how any man carrying Armes could haue the patience to endure). Therefore since the Turkes iournying in great troopes, were sufficiently armed against theeues, and in all euents are vnfaithfull fellow souldiers to a Christian ioining with them, (excepting the Ianizares, who how soeuer they make a shew of feare of theeues, that they may seeme better to deserue their wages, yet haue seldome or neuer beene assaulted by them). For these and other reasons wee left our swords at Venite, (which reasons it would be tedious to vrge), and chose rather vnarmed then armed to suffer iniuries, which there cannot be auoided.

My selfe and my brother Henry, (who died this yeere in the moneth of Iuly) spent foure hundred and eighty pounds sterling, in this iourney from England to Ierusalem, and thence to Haleppo; and in my particular iourney (after his death) to Constantino∣ple, and returne into England. If any say we spent lauishly, let him know that my dea∣rest brothers death, and my necessary stay thereupon, and a desperate sickenesse into which I fell vpon griefe, very much increased the said expences. Adde that I being pressed with these miseries, had now spent all the money we brought in our purses, and then suffered great losse, by the money taken vpon exchange to be paid in England, and being weake after my sickenesse, was forced much to increase my charge, by ta∣king a seruant to wait vpon me. From which extraordinary mischiefes, God deliuer all that vndertake this iourney, and yet I am deceiued if the ordinary burthens will not seeme more then enough heauy to them.

But I returne to the relation of my iourney. It is the Mariners fashion that being to goe to Sea, they will affirme they set sayle presently, that the Merchants and passen∣gers may bring their goods on board, which done, they will not easily take them out againe, though that ship after long delaies should goe last out of the Hauen. There∣fore wee kept our goods in our lodging, still inquiring after the Scriuano, who dwelt hard by vs; and when he professed seriously, that hee would take shippe the next day, then we presently shipped our prouisions. So on Friday the 19 of Aprill (after the new stile) in the yeere 1596, we together with the Patron (our Master) went aboard. And the Patron returned that night to Venice, but we lodged in the ship. The Patron * 5.31 had some monethspast promised me and my brother, that we should set our chests (vpon which we were to rest) aboue the hatches, hard by the sterne, where (the shippe being great) wee had commodity to set them in a place couered ouer the head, but o∣pen on the side towards the prowe, and this place was close at the other end, lying at the very doore of the Patrons cabbin, where he slept, and laid his priuate goods. And this place seemed to me very pleasant, and fit to rest in, since we were couered from raine; and the winds blew commonly vpon the sterne, while we were at sea, (for we sayled commonly with a fore wind, the winds being more constant in that sea; at set seasons of the yeere, then in our seas), and for the time of our abiding in Hauens, and otherwise in that calme sea, if the winds were contrary, yet in summer time, and in a clime so neere the AEquinoctial line, we could receiue no hurt, but rather pleasure by their coolenesse. Besides, being thus parted from the Mariners, we were free from lice, and all filthinesse, wherewith the French-men our consorts were much annoied; who slept vnder the hatches, and that the rather, because they wore woollen stockings, wee silke, (drawne ouer with linnen); and they slept in their apparell, we only in our doub∣lets, and linnen breeches and stockings; which doublets of ours were lined with taffe∣tie, wherein lice cannot breed or harbour: so as howsoeuer I wore one and the same doublet till my returne into England, yet I found not the leaft vncleanlinesse therein. And giue me leaue to ioy in my good fortune, (as the common sort speake). Namely that the taffety lining of my doublet, being of greene colour, which colour none may weare vpon great danger, but onely they who are of the line and stocke of Mahomet, (of whom I could challenge no kindred), yet it hapened that by sleeping in my doub∣let

aswell by land as by sea, no Turke euer perceiued this my errour. Neither did I vnderstand by any Christian, no not by our English Merchants at Haleppo, in what danger I was for the same, till I came to Constantinople, where our English Ambassa∣dour told mee of the strict Law forbidding the vse of this colour; and that a poore Christian some few dayes before had been beaten with cudgels at Constantinople, and was hardly kept from being killed, because ignorantly he wore a paire of greene shoo∣strings. Whereupon I was yet in feare when all danger was almost past, yet would I not cast off my doublet, but onely more warily kept the lining from sight, till I en∣tred the Greeke ship wherein I passed thence to Venice, and so was free from all dan∣ger.

I returne to my purpose. The Patron of our ship (as I said) returned to Venice; but we staied in the ship, to dispose all our prouisions fitly for the iourney. The next day, being the twentieth of Aprill (after the new stile), the Patron, Scriuano, and all the Merchants came aboard, and the following night being cleere, our ship was drawne out of Malamocco the Venetian Hauen, by little boats fastened to the ship by ropes, and making their way with oares, (for great shippes vse no sayles to goe out of this Hauen.)

Vpon Sunday the 21 of Aprill, in the yeere 1596, being thus put to sea, wee set * 5.32 saile with a faire winde. Then all falling on our knees, we prayed vnto God for a hap∣pie Voyage, kneeling aboue the hatches, but praying euery man priuately and silently to himselfe. Some write, that in the Ships of Venice, they vse to pray publikely in Latin euery day after the Roman fashion; and some dayes to celebrate Masses: but in this our ship the Patron and most of the Marriners were Greekes, and onely the Scri∣uano (that is, Scribe) with some Merchants were Italians, and of the Roman Religi∣on. Therefore euery day a Bell was rung at prayer time, but each man prayed pri∣uately after his owne manner. There were besides in the ship many Easterne Chri∣stians, of diuers Sects and Nations, and Turkes, and Persians, yea, very Indians wor∣shipping the Sunne, all which, at the ringing of this bell to prayer, went vnder the hatches. My selfe and my brother willingly prayed with them aboue the hatches, after the foresaid manner, whereof we thought no scruple of conscience to bee made, since Greekes prayed with vs, as well as Italians and French, whose difference in Reli∣gion was well knowne to themselues, so as this our priuate prayer was voide of all dis∣simulation. And we were glad that no profession of our Religion was imposed vpon vs, in regard of our consorts, with whom we were to goe to Ierusalem, and of the Itali∣ans, who after our returne might perhaps meete vs in Italy.

Prayers being ended, they vsed a cerimony, which I liked well: for the sub-Patron giuing the signe with his siluer whistle, all the Marriners bareheaded, and turning their faces to the East, cryed with a loud voyce Buon' viaggio, Buon' viaggio, (that is, a good voyage), and the same signe giuen, did cease, and againe cried so three times. Vpon Tuesday, the Patron with the Scriuano standing by him, stood vpon the Castle of the ship, and made a solemne Oration to the sub-Patron and the Marriners, standing vp∣on the lower hatches, whom he admonished how they should behaue themselues, and especially to refraine from swearing, blasphemy, and sodomie, vnder great penaltie. Then he wrote the names of the Marriners, and gaue euery man his charge. And last∣ly turning himselfe to the passengers, exhorted them to behaue themselues mo∣destly.

And I must truly witnesse, that the Patron, the Scriuano, and the sub-patron, vsed all passengers courteously, yet so kept their grauitic, as they had due respect at all times, particularly at the Table, where they did first set downe, others expecting till they came, then the Friers did sit downe, and lastly the Lay-men in due order. Nei∣ther doe any sit or walke vpon the highest hatches, saue onely they who did eate at the Table of the Patron, but the rest and all the Easterne people (whom hee neuer ad∣mits to his Table) were on the middle Hatch, or at the Prow.

Vpon Wednesday in the morning, we did see vpon the shoare of Italy, the Moun∣taines of Ancona, which are two hundred Italian miles distant from Venice. Vpon

Thursday, the fiue and twentie of Aprill, wee sailed by the Iland or Mountaine Po∣ma (or Pamo), seated in the middest of the Gulfe of Venice, which was a high Rock, ri∣sing sharpe at the toppe, and vninhabited, where in the Autum they take Faul∣cons: and we sailed by the Iland Saint Andrea, (distant one hundred miles from An∣cona) on the North side, and the shoare of Italy on the South side. And the same night wee sayled by the Iland Ischa, and the next morning being Friday, by the Ilands Buso, Aulto, Catsa, and towards the euening, by the Ilands Cazola, Augusta, and Palaofa: for in this Gulfe of Venice bee many Ilands, whereof the most are subiect to Venice, and the rest to Raguza, and other Lords, and some towards the North-shoare to the great Turke.

Heere great store of Dolphines followed our ship; and the voyce of the Marri∣ners (as they vse to doe), and they playing about vs, did swimme as fast as if they had flowne. Then wee did see the Iland Liozena, being all of Mountaines, subiect to Venice, and inhabited by Gentlemen, where the Venetians had built a strong Fort vp∣on the Hauen for their Gallies. And after fiue miles wee did see the Iland Curzola, subiect to Venice, and hauing a Bishop. And the winde being high, wee cast anchor neere Curzola, but the winde soone falling, we set sayle againe.

From the fixe and twentie of Aprill, to Thurseday the second of May, the South-East winde (which the Italians call Syrocco) did blow very contrary vnto vs. The third of May being Friday, towards the euening, we were driuen vpon the Northerne shoare, and did see the Fort Cataro, built on a Mountaine vpon the continent, against Turkish Pirats, and distant eighteene miles from Raguza, the chiefe Citie of Selauonia, which is free, yet payes tribute to the Venetians and Turks, their powerful neighbors. Not farre thence the Turks also had a Fort, built against the Venetians. Raguza is some * 5.33 one hundred miles distant from the Iland Andrea, and some foure hundred miles from Venice.

Vpon Saturday we sayled by the Promontorie of Saint Mary on the North side, and Otranto a Citie of Apulia in Italy on the South side, seeing them both plainely: for now we were passing out of the Gulfe of Venice, into the Mediterranean sea, by this Straight, some sixtie miles broad, and some two hundred miles distant from Raguza.

Here we did ouertake a ship of Venice, called Ragazona, and that we might enioy one anothers company, the Sea being calme for the time, our ship being the lesse (yet of some nine hundred Tunnes), was fastned to the Sterne of the other ship by a Ca∣ble, and towards the euening vpon the Greeke shore towards the North, wee did see Vallona.

Now we were come forth of the Adriatique Sea, otherwise called the Gulfe of Ve∣nice, which hath in length some sixe hundred Italian miles, and the breadth is diuers, sometimes two hundred miles, sometimes lesse, betweene Ancona and the opposite Hauen Valdagosta seuentie miles, and in the Straight we now passed sixtie miles broad. On Sunday the fifth of May we did see the Mountaine Fanon, (and as I remember an Iland) three miles distant from the Iland Corfu, and vpon the Greeke shoare beyond the Iland, we did see the most high Mountaines called Chimerae, inhabited by the Al∣banesi, who neither subiect to the Turkes nor Venetians, nor any other, doe vpon oc∣casion rob all; and the Venetians, and the Kings of France, and especially of Spaine, vse to hire them in their warres. The sixth of May wee sayled by the Promontory, called the Cape of Corfu (the description of which Iland I will deferre till my returne this way.) On Tuesday the seuenth of May, wee sailed by the Iland Paro verie neere vs, and the Iland Saint Maura ioyned by a bridge to the continent of Epirus, and subiect to the Turkes, and the Iland Ithaca (vulgarly called by the Italians Compare) also subiect to the Turkes, and famous for their King Vlysses, and some foure miles distant from the Iland Cepholania, which towards euening wee did see, being distant some one hundred miles from Corfu.

On Wednesday early in the morning, wee entered a narrow Sea, some two * 5.34 miles broad, hauing Cephalonia the lesse on the North side, and the greater Cephalonia on the South side, and wee cast anchor neere a desart Rocke (where of old there was

an Vniuersitie), and many of vs, in our boat (sent with Mariners to cut wood, and take fresh water), did go on land in the greater Cepholania, to refresh our selues, and to wash our bodies in the Sea water: but wee durst not goe farre from our Marriners, lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should offer vs violence. Both the Ilands are subiect to Venice, and abound with wines and small Currends, and in time of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort, built there by the Venetians, to be safe from the Turks. The Venetians euery third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen, to be sent hether for Gouernour and Officers.

The same Wednesday the eight of May, towards the euening, we set saile, and be∣fore darke night passed by the Promontary, called the Cape of Cepholania, and did see on the North side the Ilands Corsolari some ten miles distant, where the Nauy of the Pope, King of Spaine, and Venetians confederate, hauing Don Iohn of Austria, base brother to King Phillip of Spaine for their Generall, obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere 1571 against the Nauy of the Turkes, the Christians hiding there many of their Gallies, that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe of Corinth (now called the Gulfe of Lepanto) might despise their number, and so be more easily drawne to fight. In the mouth of the said Gulfe, vpon the West shoare, is the Castle of Toran (or Torneze) sea∣ted in Peloponesus, a Prouince of Greece, which the Turkes call Morea, and in the bottom of the Gulfe, Petrasso is seated in the same Prouince, and Lepanto in the Prouince of Achaia, and of these Cities this Gulfe of Corinth, is in these dayes called sometimes the Gulfe of Lepanto, sometimes the Gulfe of Petrasso. In the Citie of Petrasso the Eng∣lish Merchants liue, hauing their Consull, and they trafficke especially for Currands of Corinth. Neere Cepholania great store of Dolphins did againe swimme about our ship (which they say doe foretell, that the winde will blow from that quarter, whether they swimme, and the same daie in the maine Sea, greater Dolphins, and in greater number, did play about our ship.

On Thurseday in the morning we did leaue on the South side the Iland Zante, sub∣iect * 5.35 to the Venetians, and seuentie miles distant from Cephalania (the description of which Iland I deferre to my returne this way), and so we sailed close by the shoare of Peloponesus (or Morea) on the North side.

Peloponesus is almost an Iland, ioyned on the North side to Achaia by a narrow neck of land, which many of old haue attempted to cut, and to make that Prouince an Iland, and it containeth large Counties or Territories of Greece: Wee sayling along the South side of this Prouince, did see the Cities, Coron, Modon, and Nauarin, and somewhat lower towards the South, was a little Iland called Striualli, which is barren and inhabited by Grecian Monks called Caloiri, who came out to vs in a boat to begge almes, and the Patron of our ship in honour of our Lady (or Virgin Marie) of Striualli, saluted the Iland with some pieces of Ordinance. Vpon Friday the tenth of May we sailed by the foresaid City Modon, seated in Greece, and one hundred miles distant from the Iland Zante. The eleuenth day in the morning we sailed by the Promontory cal∣led the Cape of Modon, and within sixe howers sailing, were out of the sight of any part of Morea.

But in the euening we came to the Cape of S. Iohn the first Promontory of the Iland * 5.36 Candia, distant some one hundred and fifty miles, (I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles, being now amongst the Italians) from Modon, the foresaid Citie of Morea, and these high Mountaines of Candia were yet couered on the top with snow. We sayled on the South side of Candia, and towards euening passed by the middle part of the Iland, and the thirteenth day by nine of the clock in the morning, wee sailed by the Cape of Salo∣mon, being towards the East the furthest part of Candia, (the description of which Iland I deferre to my comming backe that way.)

At this time our Marriners, aswell Greekes as Italians, were greatly offended with one of our French Consorts, a Lay man, because at dinner time, according to the neg∣ligent fashion of the French, he turned the cleane side of his trencher vpward: for of all men the Marriners, and of all Marriners the Greekes and Italians are most supersti∣tious; and if any thing in the ship chance to be turned vp-side downe, they take it for

an ill signe, as if the ship should be ouerwhelmed. Otherwise I neuer obserued, that either the chiefe or inferiour Mariners euer vsed the least disrespect to any passenger, being rather louing and familiar to them in conuersation. And I remember that my brother Henry vsing to walke vpon the highest hatches, the Patron, and Scriuano, and others, did with smiling obserue his fast walking and melancholy humour, yet how∣soeuer it was troublesome to them, did onely once, and that curteously reproue him, or rather desire him that he would haue respect to the Mariners, who watched al night for the publike safety, and were then sleeping vnder the hatches. Alwaies vnderstand that a man may not bee so bold in another mans house as in his owne, and may yet lesse be bold in a ship of strangers; and that an vnknowne passenger must of all other be most respectiue. And whereas Mariners are held by some to be theeuish, surely in the Hauen at the iournies end, (where theeues easily find receiuers), it is good to be wary in keeping that belongs to you: but at sea no place is more safe then a shippe, where the things stolne, are easily found, and the offenders seuerely punished.

On Sunday the nineteenth of May, we came to the first Promontory of the Iland * 5.37 Cyprus, towards the West, and after eight houres sayling, we came to the old City Paphos (or Paphia), now called Baffo, and the wind failing vs, and gently breathing vpon this Castle of Venus, we houered here all the next night, gaining little or nothing on our way. This place is most pleasant, with fruitfull hils, and was of old consecrated to the Goddesse Venus, Queene of this Iland; and they say that Adamants are found here, which skilfull Iewellers repute almost as precious as the Orientall. A mile from this place is the Caue, wherein they faigne the seuen sleepers to haue slept, I know not how many hundred yeeres. The twenty one of May towards the euening, we entred the Port of Cyprus, called Le Saline, & the two & twentith day obtaining licence of the Turkish Cady to goe on land, we lodged in the Village Larnica, within a Monastery of European Friars. Here some of vs being to saile to Ioppa, and thence to goe by land to Ierusalem, did leaue the Venetian ship, which sailed forward to Scanderona. The Turkes did conquer the Iland Ciprus from the Venetians, in the yeere 1570, and to this day possesse it, the chiefe Cities whereof are Nicosia, (seated in the middest of the Iland) and Famogosta (seated in the furthest part of the Iland towards the East). The Turkish Basha, or Gouernour, vseth to chuse Famogosta for his seate, (though Nicosia be the fairer City), because it hath a good Hauen, and a most strong Fort, which the Venetians built. The Iland lieth two hundred & forty miles in length from the west to the East, and hath some eighty miles in bredth, & six hundred miles in compasse. This Iland is said to be distant some foure hundred miles from the Iland of Candia, (which is some two hundred and thirty miles long: but I speake of the next Promontories in both of them), and from Venice some two thousand two hundred and twenty miles, from Alexandria in AEgypt, some foure hundred and fifty miles, from Alexandretta (at this day called Scanderona), the Hauen of Caramania, eighty miles, from Tripoli of Syria, ninety miles, and from Ioppa a Hauen in Palestina, about two hundred and fifty miles, speaking of the vttermost Promontories on all sides.

This Iland yeeldeth to no place in fruitfulnesse or pleasure, being inriched with Corne, Oile, Cheese, most sweet Porkes, Sheepe, (hauing tailes that weigh more then twenty pound) Capers (growing vpon pricking bushes) Pomegranats, Oranges, and like fruites; Canes or Reedes of sugar, (which they beat in mils, drawing out a water which they seeth to make sugar), with rich wines, (but gnawing or burning the sto∣macke) odoriferous Cipres trees, (whereof they make siers,) store of Cotton, and many other blessings of nature. Neere the Promontory Del'Gatto, so called of Cats that vse to kill Serpents, they take Falcons, which Hawkes the Gouernours are com∣manded to send to Constantinople. They sowe corne in the moneth of October, and reape it in Aprill. I know not how it comes to passe, that in this Iland of Venus, all fruites taste of salt, which Venus loued well. And I thought that this was onely proper to the place at which we landed, where they make salt, till many Ilanders affirmed to me, that the very earth, the sweet hearbs, the beasts feeding there, and the fountaines of waters, had a naturall saltnes. The houses are built after the manner of Asia, of a little

stone, one roofe high, and plaine in the top, which is plastered, and there they eate and sleepe in the open aire.

By the assistance of a Venetian Merchant, seuen of vs hired a ship of a Greeke dwel∣ling in Cyprus, for twenty eight zechines to Ioppa (now called Iaffa, or Giaffa), with con∣dition that he should stay at Ioppa fifteene dayes to expect our returne from Ierusalem, and should thence carry vs to Tripoli in Syria. The most part of these zechines wee left in the hand of the Venetian Merchant, to be deliuered to the Master of this ship at his returne, if he brought our testimonie vnder our hands, that hee had performed all couenants with vs: for wee also conditioned with him, that hee should stay longer then fifteene dayes at Ioppa (if neede were) for our returne, we paying him a zechine for euery day aboue fifteene, which he should stay there for vs. We might haue hired a ship or Barke for ten zechines directly to Ioppa, without these conditions of staying there, and carrying vs to Tripoli. And because the Turkish Gouernors of Cities vse to impose great tributes vpon Christians driuen into their Hauens, & somtimes by tricks of fraude to bring them in danger of life, onely to spoile them of their money, some of our Consorts would haue added another condition, that the Master should not carrie vs to any Port, but that of Ioppa, had not the rest iudged it vnreasonable, to tie him for performance of that, which was onely in the power of God, according to the windes, which might force him to take harbor. My selfe did familiarly know an English Gen∣tleman, who shortly after comming to Scanderona, and there taking ship to passe by this shoare to Ioppa, and so to Ierusalem, if an honest man had not forewarned him, had by the treason of a Ianizare in the way bin sold for a slaue to the inland Turks, whence he was like neuer to be redeemed, being farre remoued from Christians, who onely trade vpon the Coasts. And he was so terrified with this danger, as he returned into England without seeing Ierusalem, to which he had then a short iourney, only carrying with him a counterfet testimonie and seale that he had been there, because he had put out much money vpon his returne.

I formerly said, that we lodged at Cyprus in a Monastery, whence being now to de∣part, the Friers of our company, and also the Lay-men, gaue each of vs eight lires of Venice to the Guardian of the Monastery, and one lire to the Frier that attended vs, in the name of gift or almes, but indeede for three dayes lodging and dyet.

Vpon Friday the twentie foure of May, we seuen Consorts (namely, two Francis∣can Friers, one Erimitane Frier, and two Lay men, all Frenchmen, and my selfe and my brother) hired a boat in the Hauen for foure lires of Venice, to carrie vs to the Cy∣prian Barke we had hired, and we carried with vs for our food, a cheese costing foure Aspers, a Iarre of Oyle costing sixe Aspers, and a vessell of Wine (called Cuso, some∣what bigger then an English barrell, and full of rich Wine, but such as fretted our ve∣ry intrals) costing one Zechine, and foure soldi of Venice, and two Turkish aspers; and egges costing twenty three aspers, beside Bisket which we brought out of the Greeke ship. In twilight (for the nights vse not here to be darke) we set saile, and were forced to goe backe towards the West, along the shoare of Cyprus, to the Promontory called Capo di Gatti, that is, the Cape of Cats, that we might from thence (according to the Marriners experience) fetch a faire winde. So we sailed that euening thirtie miles (of Italy I meane) and the next day twentie miles to a Village of Cyprus called Lemisso (where Christians ships vse to put in.) Here we cast anchor, & all the six & twentie day of May expected a winde, which we got at midnight following. Ioppa is no more then two hundred fiftie miles from Cyprus, and may easily be run in two nights and a daies saile with a faire winde, yet how soeuer the wind was most fauourable to vs, wee could see no land till Wednesday thetwenty nine of May, at which time we found our selues by the ignorance of the Marriners to be vpon the Coast of Egypt, neere the Citie Da∣miata, which we might see seated vpon the banke of Nilus, and they said it was some sixe miles from the Sea. Now our Marriners seeing the shoare, knew better to direct our sayling, and the night following we lay at anchor neere this shoare. Vpon Thurs∣day we coasted the land of the Philistines, and first did plainely see the Citie Gaza, and after thirtie miles sayle the Citie Ascolon, neere which we cast anchor for that night.

Vpon Friday being the last of May, after two miles saile, we entered the Hauen of Ioppa. From hence we sent a messenger hired for fourteene meidines, to the Subasha * 5.38 of Ramma, intreating him that he would giue vs leaue to passe to Ierusalem, and send vs a souldier to protect vs. The foresaid shore of the Philistines, seemed to be a wild nar∣row and sandy plaine, neere the sea, with mountaines pleasant and fruitfull, towards the East vpon Palestine. The City of Ioppa, mentioned in the scriptures, had some ru∣ines of wals standing, which shewed the old circuit thereof, but had not so much as any ruines of houses; onely we did see the exactors of tribute come out of two ruinous Towers, and some ragged Arabians and Turkes, lying (with their goods) within cer∣taine caues, who also slept there, or in the open aire. These goods are daily carried hi∣ther and from hence, vpon the backs of Cammels, whereof we might see many droues laded both come and goe. For this cause we would not land, but thought better to lie in our shippe, especially since the place affoorded no entertainment for strangers, and our Mariners brought vs egges and fruites, and we had with vs wine and bisket, which notwithstanding we did hide, left the Arabians or Turkes should take it from vs, if they came to our Barke. The Hauen is of little compasse, but safe for small Barkes, and was of old compassed with a bricke wall, the ruines whereof still defend it from the waues of the sea. The situation of Ioppa is pleasant, vpon a hill declining towards the sea, and the fields are fertile, but were then vntilled. Here the Prophet Ionas did take ship, as it were to flie from God, and the Machabei (as appeares in the first booke and twelfth chapter) here burnt the ships: and the Apostle Peter lodging in the house of Simon, was taught the conuersion of the Gentiles by a vision; and here he raised vp Tabitha from death, as the Holy Scriptures witnes.

Vpon Munday the third of Iune, at nine of the clocke in the morning, the Subasha of Ramma sent vs a Horseman or Lancyer to guide vs, and with him came the Atalla, (that is, interpreter, whom the Italians call Drogomano, who was a Maronite Christi∣an, that vsed to guide strangers) They brought vs Asses to ride vpon, (which they vse there in stead of Horses, excepting onely the souldiers), and with them came a Muccaro (so they call those that hier out Asses, Mules, or Cammels). We presently landed about noone, and when my brother leaped vpon land, and according to the manner, bended downe to kisse it, by chance he fell, and voided much blood at the nose: and howsoeuer this be a superstitious signe of ill, yet the euent was to vs tragi∣call, by his death shortly after happening. Here for our carriage (namely our shirts, for the rest we had left in the Barke;) we iointly paid fiue meydines for cafar, (that is Tri∣bute) and the Officers of Ioppa extorted from each of vs for his person, halfe a Spanish Reale; neither would they be pleased, till each of vs gaue them two meydines in gift. Then we iointly gaue fixe meydines to our Muccaro for his dinner, and fiue of free gift. Our Asses had pannels in stead of saddles, ropes for bridles, and ropes laid crosse the pannels, and knotted at the ends in stead of stirrups. The same Monday in the af∣ternoone, we rode ten miles to Ramma, through a most pleasant plaine, yeelding time and hysope, and other fragrant herbes, without tillage or planting, growing so high, as they came to the knees of our Asses. By the way on our left hand, not farre out of the high way, lay the ruines of the City Lydda, where Saint Peter cured one sicke of * 5.39 the palsie; and Saint George is said to haue suffered martyrdome, and that his head is yet kept in a Greeke Church. We also passed by a Village, hauing a moschee or Tur∣kish Church; and being full of pleasant Orchards of Figge-trees, Oliue-trees, Pome-granates, (bearing buds of flesh colour, and being like a Barbery tree, by little and lit∣tle couered with a greene rinde) and many kinds of fruites; the abundance whereof in these parts, we might easily guesse, when wee bought in the Port of Ioppa more then a thousand Abricots for six Aspers, at which time, left we should surfet on such dain∣taies, (the vntemperate eating whereof we had read to haue often killed many Euro∣peans) we durst not eate them raw, but Iod the most part of them. Now vpon the third of Iune they had almost gathered in their Haruest, and all the fields were full of Cotten, growing like Cabbage two foote high, and yeelding a round Apple, out of which they gather the Cotten. This Cotten is sowed in April, and gathered in Sep∣tember,

and great quantity thereof is carried from hence into Europe.

At Ramma we were brought into a house, where Pilgrimes vse to be lodged, and it * 5.40 was of old great & strong, but at this time more fit to lodge beasts then men. Some say it was the House of Ioseph of Arimathia, others say it was Nicodemus his house, and there was a fountaine of water, and a Court yard to walke in, but the roomes were full of dust, and we hardly got straw to lie vpon. There were yet some marbles and ru∣ines of building, that shewed it to haue beene a faire house. The Maronite Christians brought vs victuals, and they sold vs a pound of bisket for sixe meidines, twelue egs for one meidine, a Cheese for one, Rice for two, some two English quarts of wine for fiue, a salet for one, and twelue Cakes, (they hauing no leauened bread) for foure mei∣dines. We that were Lay-men gaue each of vs sixe Zechines, and each of the Friars fiue, into the hands of our Interpreter, to be giuen to the Subasha for tribute, or rather for our safe conduct. I know that fauour is done to Friars, especially by these Mini∣sters belonging to Monasteries, and we committed the ordering of our expences to one of the Franciscan Friars, who had best experience, so as it may be the Interpreter restored to the Friars their money, or part of it: but I am sure these my eies did see them pay so much. One in the name of the Subasha, brought vs for a present some flaggons of a medicinall drinke, made of cooling hearbes, and sold in the Tauernes, as we sell wine. We iointly gaue fiue meidines to a watch-man, appointed to keepe our doore, and protect vs from wrong, who being a man of very great stature, was called Goliah, and he walked all night at our gate, where he did sing or rather houle with his hoarce voice continually. Some write that there is onely due, one Zechine to the Suba∣sha, another to the Captaine of the Arabians, and twenty fiue meidines for Cafar (or Tribute), and half a Zechine to the Muccaro, who let out their Asses to Pilgrimes, and that the guide deceiues the Christians of all the rest. I am sure that the guide be∣ing of experience, deliuers the Christians from many iniuries offered them by the Arabians and others, for which fauour they cannot sufficiently require him; and if any deale sparingly with him, he complaines of them to the Guardian of the Mona∣stery at Ierusalem, who neuer suffers him to be sent away discontented, neither wants he power himselfe to deceiue the Christians at his pleasure, if he beare that mind. At Ramma we iointly gaue one Zechine to our Muccaro, of whom we hired our Asses.

And the fourth of Iune, hauing him onely to conduct vs, we tooke our ioutney be∣fore day towards Ierusalem, being thirty miles distant, (I meane of Italy). As we rode before day, our Muccaro warned vs to be silent, lest we should waken the Arabians, Turkes, or Thecues, who then slept, and were like if they awaked to offer vs violence, or at least to extort some money from vs. The Arabians are not vnlike the wild Irish, for they are subiect to the great Turke, yet being poore and farre distant from his im∣periall seat, they cannot be brought to due obedience, much lesse to abstaine from rob∣beries. After we had rode ten miles, we did see vpon a hill not farre distant, on our right hand, the ruines of the House (or Pallace) of the good Thiefe crucified with our Sauiour, which ruines yet remaine, and shew that the house was of old stately built; as * 5.41 if he had beene a man of some dignity, banished for robbing of passengers: and when he was brought to the Magistrates hand, had beene condemned to death for the same. From hence to the very City of Ierusalem, the Mountaines or Rockes doe continually rise higher and higher, till you come to the City, our way hitherto hauing beene in a pleasant plaine, rich in corne and pasture. These mountaines which we after passed, seemed stony and barren, but yeelded fragrant hearbes, and excellent corne growing betweene the great stones, and some vallies were pleasant, as the vally of hieromia, (as I thinke the Prophet), where of old was built a stately Church, which as then stood little ruined; and neere it is a pleasant fountaine, where the passengers vse to drinke and to water their Asses. They say that the said Prophet was borne there, and that the place was of old called Anatoth. I said that excellent corne growes betweene the great stones of these Mountaines or Rockes, neither are they destitute of Vines, and many fruites. In the said valley of Hieromy, certaine Arabians which seemed to be mowers of corno, flew vpon vs like fierce dogges, yet our Muccaro sent them away

content with the gift of a bisket, and in like sort in another narrow passage of the mountaines, he paied some meidines for cafar, which he neuer demanded of vs, being content with the money we had paied him at Ramma. Vpon a high Rocke we did see the ruines of the Castle Modon, where the Machabees were buried. Then wediscended * 5.42 into the Valley of Terebintho, (so called of a Tree bearing a black fruit like an Oliue, & yeelding a kind of oyle), where we passed ouer a Torrent by a bridge of stone, and * 5.43 this is the place famous for the victory of Dauid against Goliah.

We had now some two miles to Ierusalem, yet in the very Hauen, we wanted little of perishing. For it happened that a Spachi (or Horse-man vnder the great Turkes pay) riding swiftly, and crossing our way, suddenly turned towards vs, and with his speare in his rest, (for these horse-men carry speares & bucklers like Amadis of Gaule) he rushed vpon vs with all his might, and by the grace of God his speare lighting in the pannell of the Asse, neuer hurt the French-man his Rider, but he did much astonish both him and vs, till our Muccaro enquiring the cause of this violence, he said, why doe not these dogges light on foot to honour mee as I passe; which when we heard, and knew that we must here learne the vertue of the beasts on which we rode, we pre∣sently tumbled from our Asses, (for we had no other stirrops then knotted ropes), and bended our bodies to him. Neither did we therein basely, but very wisely: for woe be to that Christian who resists any Turke, especially a Souldier, and who beares not any iniury at their hands. We had but one mile to Ierusalem, when we did sec large ruines (on this West side of the City) of an old City or Village. Somewhat after noone the fourth of Iune, we entered Ierusalem vpon the West side, at the Gate of Ioppa, (written Iaffa, Giaffa, and Zaffa, by diuers Nations). At this gate we staied, till two Friars came out of the Latine Monastery, and likewise the exactors of Tribute came to vs, and to them we paied each man two zechines for tribute due to the great Turke, or at least extorted from vs, which done, the two Friars being Italians, did lead vs to the Monastery of the Latines.

CHAP. II. The description of the City of Ierusalem, and the territory thereof.

I Am vnskilfull in Geography, and much more in the * 5.44 making of Mappes: but according to the faithfull view of my eyes, I will first draw the situation of Ierusalem, and after explaine it, as well as I can. And first I thinke good to professe that by my iourny to this City, I had no thought to expiate any least sinne of mine; much lesse did I hope to merit any grace from God; but when I had once begun to visite forraigne parts, I was so stirred vp by emulation and curiosity, as I did neuer behold any without a kind of sweete enuy, who in this kind had dared more then my selfe. Thus affected, I thought no place more worthy to be viewed in the whole world, then this City, where howso∣euer I gaue all diuine worship to God, and thought none to be giuen to the places, yet I confesse that (through the grace of God) the very places strucke me with a reli∣gious horrour, and filled my mind prepared to deuotion, with holy motions. In like fort I professe, that I will faithfully relate the situation of the City, and the descripti∣on of the monuments made to me by the Friars, making conscience not to adde or detract, but as neere as I can to vse their owne words. Yet doe I not my selfe beleeue all the particulars I write vpon their report, neither doe I perswade any man to beleeue them. But for many monuments, the scripture giues credit to them, and it is not pro∣bable in so great difference and emulation, (whereof I shall after speake) of Sects of Christians there abiding, and being most apt to note errours one in another, that any

apparant fictions could be admitted: as on the contrary, it is most certaine, that some superstitious inuentions (wherewith all the sectes are more or lesse infected) haue in time obtained, to be reputed true, and religiously to be beleeued. Howsoeuer he that conferres the situation of the City and of the monuments, with the holy Scriptures, and with the old ruines of Rome, and other Cities, shall easily discerne what things are necessarily true or false, and what are more or lesse probable.

And it will notoriously appeare, that the Citie is now seated in the same place, in which it flourished when our Sauiour liued there in the slesh. Neither let any man ob∣iect to me the prophecies of the fatall and irreparable ruine thereof, which all Diuines vnderstand of the Temple to be vtterly demolished; and for my part, I would rather admit (if necessitie require) any figuratiue speech, then I would bee so wicked or so blockish, as not to beleeue the holy Scriptures, or that which I did see with these eyes. Vpon the West side, the Citie could neuer haue been more enlarged then now it is, since Mount Caluerie (without all doubt) was of old without the walles, which now is inclosed within them, so as rather it appeares the Citie hath been so much inlarged on that side. In like sort on the East side, the Citie is so compassed with the Valley of Ie∣hosephat, and the famous Mount Oliuet, as it appeares the City could not that way haue been larger then now it is. On the North side I did neuer reade nor heare any, that described this Citie to haue been larger then now it is, yet in respect of huge ruines still remaining there, vpon a large Plaine of the highest part of the Citie, if any should confidently affirme that they belonged to the old Citie, for my part I could not gaine∣say it. From the Plaine of this highest part of the Citie it declines by little and little (if you except some little Hilles within the walles) from the North to the East (where the Temple of Salomon is seated vpon the lowest part of Mount Moriah) and like∣wise it declines from the North to the South Gates, whereof the one is called Sterqui∣linea, of the filth there carried out, the other Praesentationis, because the Virgin Mary entered there, when she presented Christ to the Priest in the Temple, which gates (as the whole Citie) are seated vpon Mountaines, yet lower then any other part of the Citie. Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion, on the same South side towards the West, lie many ruines of houses, and it is most certaine, that the Tower of Dauid, and other famous houses there, which are now without the walles, were of old inclosed within them, and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South, then now it doth. Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies, and those Val∣lies with high Mountaines, as this extent could not be great.

Ierusalem was of old called Moria (where they write that Adam was created of red earth), & is seated vpon Mount Moriah, vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery (where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac, and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered), and in the lowest part of this Mountaine, the Temple of Salomon was seated. The Citie was after called Salem, and thirdly, Iebus, and fourthly Ierusalem, and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉〈◊〉. It is compassed with stately walles (the like whereof I did neuer see) of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long, and about halfe an Elle broad. I call them stately, for the antiquitie, wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles. I numbred seuen Gates. The first of Damasco, (of old called the Gate of Ephraim) on the North side. The second of Saint Stephen on the East side (which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way.) The third the golden Gate, also on the East side (which at this day is shut and bricked vp.) The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side, leading into the Temple of Salomon, but at this day shutvp. The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side, so called of the filth there carried out. The sixth, the Gate of Syon also on the South side, neare that part of Mount Syon, which at this day is without the walles, but this Gate hath been newly built. The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built. In generall, the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified, only as it were to terrifie the Christians, who enter at the Gate of Ioppa, they haue braggingly fortified the same, and planted great Ordinance vpon it. And how∣soeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults, yet it is no way able to

hold out against a Christian Army well furnished, neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts, but to their forces in field.

The houses here, and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene, are built of Flint stone, very low, onely one storie high, the top whereof is plaine, and plastered, and hath bat∣tlements almost a yard high, and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne, and after Sunne-set, walke, eate, and sleepe, vpon the said plastred floare, where as they walke, each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed, or eating at table. But as in the heate of the day, they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose, so when the Syren or dew falls at night, they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp, or else fling some garment ouer their heads. And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened, the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line, and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October, about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full. The houses neare the Temple of Salomon, are built with arches into the streete, vnder which they walke drie, and couered from the Sunne, as like wife the houses are built in that sort, in that part of the Citie, where they shew the house of Herod, in both which places the way on both sides the streete is rai∣sed for those that walke on foote, lying low in the middest for the passage of laded As∣ses. In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited, there being onely Monasteriesof di∣uers Christian Sects, with their Gardens. And by reason of these waste places, and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses, and the low building of them, some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses, to him that lookes on them neere hand. But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places, and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet (abounding with Oliues, and the highest of all the Mountaines), the prospect of the Citie, and more specially of the Churches and Mo∣nasteries (which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse, or such glistering mettall) promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes, then indeed it hath. The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles.

All the Citizens are either Tailors, Shoomakers, Cookes, or Smiths (which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron, but of wood), and in generall poore rascall people, mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations, partly Arabians, partly Moores, partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries, by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited. The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats, and being practicall, doe liue for the most part vpon the sea∣coasts, and few or none of them come to this Citie, inhabited by Christians that hate them, and which should haue no traffique, if the Christian Monasteries were taken a∣way. Finally, the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked, as they were when they crucified our Lord, gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully. They esteemed vs Princes, because wee wore gloues, and brought with vs shirts, and like necessaries, though otherwise we were most poorely appareled, yet when we went to see the monuments, they sent out their boyes to scorne vs, who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete, we passing in the lower part, and snatched from vs our hats and other things, while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries, which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience. Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy, being sicke, and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls, when he met by the way a friend, who then was returning into Europe, desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends, hee earnestly intreated him to tell them, that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels.

[illustration]

The description of the Citie and the Territorie.

Now followes the explication of the Citie described: and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie, shewes the old walles thereof, before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings, for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles, this line being onely imagina∣rie.

(1) Mount Sion without the walles, for part of it is yet inclosed with them.

(2) The faire Castle, which was built by the Pisans of Italy, while yet they were a free State, and the building is not vnlike to the Italian Castles. It was now kept by a Tur∣kish Agha and Garrison, hauing great store of short Iron Ordinance of a huge boare, lying at the Gate for terrour of the people. I remember that when wee walked (after Sunne set) vpon the top of the Latine Monastery (as those of Asia walke vpon their houses), this Agha sent a souldier to vs, commanding vs to goe from beholding the Castle, or else he would shoote at vs, whom we presently obeyed. Thus they suspect Christians, and suffer them not to enter this Citie with Armes, but narrowly search their baggage.

(3) The Gate of Ioppa (Zaffa, or Griaffa) in some sort fortified, where for terrour to the Christians, they haue planted some Ordinance, for the other Gates haue none, neither are fortified at all, and all the Christians enter at this Gate.

(4) The Gate of Mount Sion, no whit fortified, and newly built (as it seemes) by the Turkes, as also that of Ioppa is.)

(5) The ruines of the house or Pallace of the High Priest Caiphas, where they shew a place with a pillar, vpon which the Cock crowed when Peter denied Christ; and a place where the fire was made, at which Peter warmed himselfe; and a tree in the place where he denied Christ; finally, a narrow prison, in which Christ was shut vp till the day brake, and so he was led to Pilate. And the Sect of the Armenian Christians keepes this monument.

(6) The old Monasterie of the Latine Christians, called il Santo Cenacolo, which the Turkes haue taken from the Christians, and turned to a Mahumetan Mosche or Church, and no Christian may enter this place, kept by the Santons or Turkish Priests, except he will giue an vnreasonable reward, which giuen, yet he is not free from

danger, if other Turkes see him enter. Here Christ did wash his Apostles feete, did eate his last Supper with them, did appeare to them after his Resurrection, the doores being shut, and againe after eight dayes appeared to Thomas doubting. Here the ho∣ly Ghost descended vpon the Apostles, and the Apostle Matthew was chosen by lot. The Italian Monastery (noted with the figure (33) hath all these representations pain∣ted, and to these pictures the Pope hath giuen as large indulgences for Papists, as if they had seene the other places, from which the Turkes keepe them as vnwashed dogges. The Sepulcher of Dauid is not sarre from this place, kept by the Turkes, forbidding entrie to the Christians. And here they shew the ruines of the Tower of Dauid, or of his Pallace, on the South side of the Church-yard giuen to Christians of Europe for buriall, in the same place where Dauid of old droue out the Iebuzites. In like sort on the South side of this old Monastery, is the place where they say the Virgin Mary died. (7) Here they shew a place where the Iewes stroue in vaine to take the body of the Virgin Mary from the hands of the Apostles, as they carried it to be buried in the Valley of Iehosophat.

(8) The Caue wherein they say Peter vsed to bewaile the denying of Christ.

(9) Here they say the Apostles hid themselues, whilst Christ suffered on the Crosse.

(10) Here they shew the field Acheldamus, bought by the Iewes for a buriall place, with the thirtie pence Iudas brought back to them. And here looking into a huge caue of the Mountaine, we did see infinite whole bodies imbalmed of dead men, and stan∣ding vpright. And this place is giuen for buriall to the Christians of Asia.

(11) the Gate Sterquilinea, at which the filth of the Citie is carried out, and cast into the Brooke Cedron. And Christ betraied by Iudas, was brought into the Citie by this Gate (as they say), which Gate is old, and nothing lesse then fortified.

(12) The Gate by which the Virgin Marie entring into the outer Temple, is said to haue offered Christ then an Infant to the hands of Simion, which Gate they say, in honour of our Redeemer, was shut vp by the Christian Kings, and so remaines to this day. (13) The outer Temple where they say Christ was exhibited to Simion, and the Italians call it the Temple of the Presentation.

(14) In this large circuit compassed all with walles, of old the Temple of Salomon stood. At this day it was ouer-growne with grasse, and in the middest thereof the Turkes had a Mosche for their wicked worship of Mahomet, neither may any Christi∣an come within this circuit, much lesse into the Mosche, either being a capitall offence, which they say some curious Christians had tried with losse of life, after they had been drawne to enter into it by some Turkes vaine promises.

(15) The golden Gate at which Christ entered on Palme-Sunday, shut vp by the Christian Kings, and so remaining.

(16) Probatica Piscina without the Gate of the Temple, where the Angell troubling the waters, the first diseased man that entred them was healed. It was at this time dri∣ed vp.

(17) The beautifull Gate where Peter and Iohn made the man walke, who was lame from his mothers wombe.

(18) Salomons house, of old hauing a Gate leading into the Temple, and it is now inhabited by the Turkish Cady, who hath an Episcopall office. Here I did see pleasant Fountaines of waters, and did looke into the circuit where the Temple stood, through an Iron grate, when the said Magistrate called vs before him. And I remember we were bidden put off our shooes before we entred in to him, where hee sat vpon a Carpet spread vpon the ground, with his legges crossed like a Tailor, and his shooes of (as the Turkes vse.)

(19) This Gate of old had the name of the Droues of cattell brought in for sacri∣fices: but at this day is called the Gate of Saint Stephen, because the Iewes drew out that Protomartyr by this Gate, and so stoned him.

(20) Heere they say was the house of Anna, wherein shee bare the Virgin Marie.

(21) The Gate of Damasco, of old called the Gate of Ephraim.

(22) The house of Pontius Pilate, in which the Turkish Sangiaco (who is the mili∣tary Gouernour of the City and Prouince) did then dwell, so as no Christian might come into the house without giuing a reward. The Fryars say that in this house are heard noises, whippings, and sighes, nightly to this very time, and each man the more superstitious he is, the more incredible things he tels thereof. They say that the staires vpon which Christ ascended, when he was brought to Pilate, were long since carried to Rome, and these be the staires which I said the Romans call Holy (vulgarly Scale Sante), and doe worship with great superstition. They be of marble, but for my part let euery man beleeue as he list, whither they were brought from thence, and be the same staires that Christ ascended or not. Onely I am sure that here they shew the place void in the very streete, where staires haue beene of old; yet must I needs say, that mar∣ble staires ill befit the poore building of this house. Here the Souldiers spoiled our Re∣deemer of his garments, and in scorne attired him with purple.

(23) The Arch of Pilate, which is a gallery of bricke, built ouer the street, from one wall to another, whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people, saying; behold the man, doe with him what you will.

(24) Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting, when Christ was led to Mount Caluary.

(25) Here they say that Christ fainting, the Iewes tooke his Crosse, and laied it vp∣pon Symon of Cyren. (26) The Pallace of King Herod.

(27) Here they say Christ vttered these words; Daughters of Syon weepe not for me, weepe for your selues, &c.

(28) Here they say the rich glutton dwelt, and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares, and dried them with the haires of her head.

(29) Here they say Veronica dwelt, and that this woman gaue her white hand-ker∣cher to Christ when he did sweat blood, who wiping his face therewith, left the liuely print of it therein: about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards con∣tend, both saying that they haue it, and shewing it for an holy relike to the people.

(30) The Gate of old called Iudiciall, now not extant, by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified, for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals, was then without the wals. And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate (noted with the figures 22) to this gate, is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians, because Christ was led by it to his passion. (31) The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter, breaking his chaines, and opening the iron doore, and it is seated vnder the ru∣ines of the Pallace, which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem.

(32) The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ, of which I will after write more largely, making a rude Mappe thereof, as I haue done of the City.

(33) The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars, in which we did Iodge, being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary, which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour. And this is called the new Monastery, in respect of the old (noted with the figure 6) and onely hath the monuments of the old painted, to the visiting where∣of, the Pope hath giuen large indulgences. The Franciscan Friars conducting vs, shewed vs some other monuments within the wals. And not farre from the gate of Syon, (noted with the figure 4) they shewed vs (34) the house of the High Priest Anna, where Christ was examined by the Pharises, and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree, (which must needs be old), to which they say Christ was bound. (35) The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames, whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia, and wor∣ship for their protecting Saint, who was called Iames the greater, and they say was here beheaded. This Church is stately built, for the pouerty of the Armenians, who built it, and maintained there an Archbishoppe, to keepe it, and to performe there the rites of their religion.

(36) The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling toge∣ther, vpon the very day of his resurrection, where the Christians built three Churches,

which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees, yet bearing no reuerence to the place, because they beleeue not that Christ died, and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe.

(37) The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke, mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn, surnamed Marke, whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison, into which Herod had cast him, (noted with the figure 31). At this day there was an obscure Church, kept by the Syrian Priests.

(38) Here they shew the Iron gate, which Peter found miraculously opened, and by the same entring into the other City, came to the house of Saint Marke.

We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East, descended into the vally of Ie∣hosaphat, and here they say (39) the bridge stood, by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron, and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge.

(40) In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned. (41) This smal line without the Easterne gates, shewes the bed of the brook Cedron, (or Kidron) which is very narrow, hauing not at this time one drop of water, so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet. But of old when Ierusalem flourished, and had many con∣duits of water drawne to it, then it is probable that it was filled with water. And at this day, when any rainefals, the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side, according to this blacke line, through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat. This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke, some two Italian miles in length, but is very narrow, and it hath on the West side the wals of the City, where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah, and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet, and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat (but not farre) distant from the City, and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant. Many interpret the Prophet Ioell, in his third Chapter and se∣cond verse, as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally, and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts, will be brought to be buried in this vally, for the expedition of their triall. But the best Diuines doe teach, that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord, and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely, namely, that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley, so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion.

(42) Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth, into which we descended by some fiftie staires, and about the middle descent, on the left hand towards the City, vnder an Altar, lie the bodies of Ioseph, and Ioachimus, and on the right hand the body of Anna (namely, of the Husband, Father, and Mother of the Virgin Marie.) In the bottome is a Church, in the middle whereof, vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground, they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary. This Church (so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses) is very darke, hauing no light but by one window or vent, made through the earth, and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks (who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued), haue made them∣selues an Oratory. But for the monument it selfe, the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same, and the Altar thereof, for their singing of Masses.

(43) Here is a Caue, at the foote of Mount Oliuet, in which they say Christ vsed to pray, and did sweat bloud.

(44) Here they shew a place where they say (beleeue it who list), that S. Thomas after the Virgines buriall, did see her both in body and soule assumed into heauen, and that she casting her girdle to him, gaue it for testimony thereof, that all others might be∣leeue it. In my opinion they did well to make Saint Thomas see it, for otherwise hee would neuer haue beleeued it.

(45) The place where they say the Virgin was wont to rest, when she visited the places frequented by her Sonne in the time hee liued heere, and where she beheld the

stoning of Saint Stephen, and prayed for him.

(46) The stone where Christ, leauing Peter, Iames, and Iohn, said, that his soule was heauy vnto death, and went aside to pray, warning them to watch.

(47) Here is a little circuit inclosed with a low wall, where they report the Garden to be, at the foot of Mount Oliuet, where Christ vsed to pray, and was betrayed by Iu∣das with a kisse.

(48) The place where they say, the Village of Getsemany was of old seated. Round about this place the Turks doe bury their dead (as they do also in a field on the North side without the walles); for they neuer burie within Cities, excepting onely the mo∣numents of their Emperours.

(49) Here they say Saint Iames the lesse did lye hidden, till hee heard that Christ was risen againe the third day after his Passion.

(50) Here be two old Sepulchers, almost of a round forme, built of Free-stone, or rather cut out of the liuing stone, wherof the one is called the Sepulcher of Absolon, the sonne of Dauid, the other of King Manasses (or as others say, of the King Ezektas.) And considering the antiquitie, they seeme no Plebean Sepulchers, but stately and fit for Princes, being foure Elles from the ground in height.

(51) Here is the top of Mount Oliuet, the highest of all the Mountaines that com∣passe Ierusalem, and here, in a Chappell, they shew in stone the print of Christs feete when he ascended into Heauen. And this Chappell is kept by a Turkish Zanton, that is a kinde of their Priests, and the Turkes giue such reuerence to the monuments of Christ liuing on earth, as they are much offended with Christians, if they creepe not on their knees, and with their shooes off to this and like monuments. To the keeper hereof we gaue a few meidines for reward.

(52) Here they say Christ did weepe ouer the Citie and rich Temple of Salomon, and in this place is the fullest prospect to view the Citie and Temple.

(53) Here they shew the ruines of the house, wherein the Apostles assembled did write the Creede.

(54) Here they say Christ taught his Disciples to pray in the forme euer since re∣ceiued, and here was a Church built by the Christians of old.

(55) Here they say Christ foretold the signes of the day of Iudgement.

(56) Here they say the Angell foretold the Virgin shee should die at three dayes ende.

Vpon Thursday the sixth of Iune, we being to goe to Bethania, hired each of vs an Asse for foure meidines, that place being scarse two Italian miles from the citie. Of our company we were foure Lay-men, and because the Friers our consorts pleaded them∣selues to be free from such expences, we were content to yeeld to them, and gaue ioint∣ly into the hands of the Fryer our guide two zechines, wherewith he was to giue small rewards, and to pay the Muccaro, who furnished vs with Asses: for we meant not to eate till our returne, the place being no further distant, and there being no dwellings, but onely the ruines of houses. What our guide spent I know not; for he neuer offe∣red to giue vs account, and because he was a Frier, wee would not trouble him in de∣maunding it. We went out by the Gate Sterquilinea (noted with the figure (11) on the South side.

(57) First, we came to the Fountaine Siloe, to which Christ sent the blind man to wash his eyes, and there we found Turkish women washing, who beate vs away with stones.

(58) Here they shew a monument of the Prophet Elia, but what it was I remem∣ber not.

(59) Here they shew a Fountaine, where they say, the Virgin washed Christs clothes when he was an infant.

(60) The Mount of Offence, opposite to Mount Sion, which Mount lies beyond the Brooke Cedron, and extendeth Eastward towards Bethania, and vpon the top thereof they shew the ruines of the Pallace which Salomon built for his Concubines and of the Altar, vpon which hee sacrificed to Idols. Betweene this Mount and that of Mount

Sion. they shew the Valley of the sonnes of Hinnon towards the West, and there they shew a place, wherein the Iewes offered their children to the Idoll Molech, (that is, Sa∣turne); yet we reade, that this Valley lies by the entry of the East-Gate, Ieremtah, chap. 19. vers. 2.

(61) Here they say, the Prophet Isaiah was cut in pieces with a Sawe, at the com∣maund of King Manasses.

(62) Here is a bridge ouer the Brook Kedron, or Cedron of one Arch, & built of stone, whereby they passe when the bed of the Brooke is filled with water, which now wee passed drie footed. And here they shew a place, where they say Christ fell vpon the stones of the bed where the brook should runne, when he being betraied by Iudas, was drawne into the Citie in a great presse of the Iewes. And vpon these stones are the prints of hands and feete (as they say, his.)

(63) The way leading to Bethania ouer Mount Oliuet.

(64) The place where they say Iudas hanged himselfe, and burst; after he had be∣traied his Lord. Not farre hence they shew a figge tree, which they say Christ cursed, because it had leaues without fruit.

(65) Here descending from Mount Oliuet towards the East, we did see farre off the valley Iordan, to which the Mountaines decline by little and little. And now we were come to Bethania, where we did see the House of Simon the Leaper, not yet ruined, and inhabited by a Moore, to whom we gaue a few meidines.

(66) Here they shew stately ruines of a Pallace, which they say belonged to Laza∣rus. And not farre thence is a Chappell, built ouer the stately sepulcher of Lazarus, the key whereof the Friars our guides had with them. For the Turkes putting great re∣ligion in reuerencing this place, haue an Oratory neere it, and enter into the Sepul∣cher by another way. Here they say Christ raised Lazarus out of his graue. At our go∣ing forth, wee were forced to giue some few meidines to certaine Turkes and Arabi∣ans, (I know not whether they had the Place in keeping, or no).

(67) The House of Mary. (68) The House of Martha her sister.

(69) The stone vpon which they say Christ did sit, before he did see the sisters of Lazarus bewailing his death, and it is some halfe mile from Bethania.

(70) This small line sheweth the bed of the Riuer Iordan, running through a most pleasant valley, which Riuer we did see some ten Italian miles distant. On the North∣side of Ierusalem, (I cannot say whether beyond Iordan or no), we did see many Tow∣ers, hauing globes of glistering mettall, and that very distinctly, the day being cleere: also we did see the wals of a City neere the Riuer Iordan, and they said, that it was Ie∣riche. Further towards the North they shewed vs from farre off a place, where they say our Sauiour was baptized by Iohn. And they affirme vpon experience had, that the water of Iordan taken in a pitcher, will very long keepe sweet, and that it corrupted not, though they carried it into forraigne parts. This water seemed very cleere, till it fell into a Lake, where they say Sodome with the other Cities stood of old, before they were burnt by fier from Heauen. And the day being cleere, we did plainely see, and much maruell that the cleere and siluer streame of Iordan, flowing from the North to the South, when in the end it fell into the said Lake, became as blacke as pitch.

The Friers our guides seriously protested, that if any liuing thing were cast into this Lake of Sodom, it could not be made to sinke, whereas any heauy dead thing went pre∣sently to the bottome. Also that a candle lighted cannot be thrust vnder the water by any force, nor be extinguished by the water, but that a candle vnlighted will pre∣sently sinke. I omit for breuities sake, many wondrous things they told vs, of the pu∣trifaction of the aire, and other strange things with such confidence, as if they would extort beliefe from vs. We had a great desire to see these places, but were discoura∣ged from that attempt, by the feare of the Arabians and Moores: for they inhabite all these Territories. And I said before, that the Arabians, howsoeuer subiect to the Turk, yet exercise continuall robberies with all libertie and impunitie, the Turkes being not able to restraine them, because they are barbarous, and liue farre from their chiefe pow∣er, where they can easily flye into desart places. Yet these Barbarians doe strictly ob∣serue

their faith to those that are vnder their protection. And all the Merchants chuse∣one or other of the Arabian Captaines, and for a small pension procure themselues to be receiued into their protection, which done, these Captaines proclaime their names through all their Cities and Tents (in which for the most part they liue), and euer after will seuerely reuenge any wrong done to them, so as they passe most safely with their goods. All other men they spoile, and make excursions with their leaders, and some∣time with their King, to the sea side, as farre as Ioppa, and much further within Land, spoyling, and many times killing all they meet.

When we returned from Bethania, we declined to the North side of Mount Oliuet, and came to the ruines of (71) Bethphage, where Christ sent for the Colt of an Asse, and riding thereupon, while the people cried Hosanna to the Highest, and laid bran∣ches and leaues vnder his feet, did enter into Ierusalem. Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune to wards the euening, we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem Iuda, and we foure lay consorts, (the Friars by our consent still hauing the priuiledge to be free from these expences) deliuered iointly foure zechines to the Friars ours guides, for our charges, whereof they gaue vs no other account, then they did formerly, yet they onely dis∣bursed some small rewards, since we went on foot, and were otherwise tied to satis∣fie the Friars of the Monastery, vnder the name of gift or almes, for our diet there: but since they vsed vs friendly, we would not displease them for so small a matter.

We went out of the City by the gate of Ioppa, on the West side, and so along (72) this line passed by a paued causey beyond Mount Sion, and then ascended another Mountaine to Bethlehem.

(73) Here they shew the Garden of Vvia, and the Fountaine wherein Bersheba wa∣shed her selfe, which at that time was drie. And from the place where the Tower of Dauid was seated vpon Mount Sion, (noted with the figure 6), is an easie prospect into this garden.

(74) Here they show the Tower of Saint Simion.

(75) Here is a Tree of Terebinth, which beares a fruit of a blacke colour, like vnto an Oliue, yeelding oyle; and vnder this tree they say the Virgine did rest, when shee carried Christ to be presented in the Temple. For which cause the Papists make their beades of this tree, and esteeming them holy, especially when they haue touched the rest of the monuments, they carry them into Europe, and giue them to their friends, for great presents and holy relikes.

(76) Here they shew a fountaine called of the Wise-men of the East, and they say that the starre did here againe appeare to them, after they came from Herod.

(77) Here they shew the ruines of a house, wherein they say that the Prophet Ha∣bakcuk dwelt, and was thence carried by the haires of the head to feede Daniel in the Li∣ons Den at Babylon.

(78) Here they shew the Fountaine of the Prophet Elias, and the stone vpon which he vsed to sleepe, vpon which they shew the print of his head, shoulders, and other members, which prints haue some similitude, but no iust proportion of those members. From a rock neere this place we did see at once both Ierusalem & Bethlehem.

(79) Here they shew a Tower and ruines, where the Patriarck Iacob dwelt, and here againe we did see both Cities.

(80) Here is an old stately Sepulcher, in which they say Rachel, Iacobs wife was buried. It is almost of a round forme, built of stone and lime foure foote high, ha∣uing the like couer aboue it, borne vp by foure pillars. There be two other Sepul∣chers, but nothing so faire, and all three are inclosed within one wall of stone.

(81) Here they shew the Fountaine, for the water whereof Dauid thirsted, yet would not drinke it, when it was brought with the hazard of blood.

(82) Here the City Bethlehem is seated, which then was but a Village; hauing no beauty but the Monastery.

(83) Here the Monastery is seated, large in circuit, and built rather after the man∣ner of Europe, then Asia, which the Italian Franciscan Friars, (called Latines, and more commonly Franckes) doe possesse: but other Christian sects haue their Altars in the

Church by speciall priuiledge, and the Turkes themselues comming hither in Pil∣grimage, doe lie within the Church: for the Turkes haue a peculiar way by a doore of Iron, (made of old, and kept by them) to enter into the Chappell, where they say Christ was borne. This Monastery seemes strong enough against the sudden attempts of the Turkes or Arabians, yet the Friars in that case dare not resist them, liuing onely in safety by the reuerence which that people beares to this place, and by the opinion of their owne pouerty. The greater Church is large, and high, in which I numbred twenty foure pillars, but my consorts being more curious, obserued that the pillars were set in foure rankes, euery ranke hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other, whereof many were of porphery, and had beautifull spots The high∣est roofe of the Church on the inside, is painted with Histories of the Scripture, with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled, (called in Ita∣lian Alla Mosaica), and the pauement is rich, with stones of marble, porphery, and Iaspar.

From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine, we entred a Caue vnder the earth, where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand. Let them place what religion they will therein, I am sure the Caue was so darke, as we could not haue passed it without a light. In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod, then the Sepulchers of Eusebius, and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell, for they hold that he long dwelt there. Then they did lead vs into a more darke place, where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space, and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine, and wrote many volumes. But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine, then to yeeld such fruites of wit, by reason it was darke, and dig∣ged deepe vnder ground.

From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell, all couered with marble, and lying in length from the West (at which end we entered) to the East. And from this West end, as well Turkes as Christians of all sects, goe vpon their knees to * 5.45 the Easterne end, and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement, in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne. By this stone on the South-side li∣eth a little Chappell, hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar. In which Chap∣pell at the right hand or West-side, is a manger, raised from the ground, and all of mar∣ble, in which they say Christ was laid after his birth: and in the wall they shew a stone hauing (as they say) the liuely picture of Saint Hierome. In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side, they shew a place, where they say Christ was circumcised, and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind: And there they fhewed another place, where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ, and offered to him their gifts. The wals of both Chappels, the pauements, and all things, are couered with marble. The roofe on the inside, is painted with the foresaid rich pictures, glistering likeenamelled worke. To conclude, all things are stately and rich, and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny, yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth, then in the greater Church, where all things then began to fall to ruine, because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died. The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth, as they creepe groueling vpon hands & knees to kisse the said stone; yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death, because they beleeue not that he died.

From hence going Backe the same way we entered, they shew vpon the right hand, a hole in the highest roofe of the Church, by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men, fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth. Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres, yea, euen of Comets, as some write that was, specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures. The City or Village of Bethlehem, is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles, (in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles), and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem, through a faire way, and mountaines planted with Vines, Oliues, and fruitfull Trees. Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines, and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides, a pleasant plaine on the North-side, ending in great moun∣taines towards Ierusalem.

(84) As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments, here they shewed vs the field, in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards, and the Caue wherein they did lie by day, to shun the heate of the Sunne.

(85) Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine.

(86) Here beyond pleasant Hilles, wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan, and the dead Sea, with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra.

(87) Here they say Bethalia was seated of old.

(88) Here we did see the ruines of a house, in which, they say, Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell.

(89) Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod.

(90) Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden. The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts, did courtcously intertaine vs at Beth∣lehem, and at our first comming, in imitation of Christ, they washed our feete. It hap∣pened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague, and so when our consorts vpon Sa∣terday in the euening returned to Ierusalem, wee were forced to stay here that night. But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem. And because they made haste to returne homeward, wee went forth the next day, being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea. And that day it happened, that I was troubled with loosenesse of body, whereof I made good vse, as I shall hereafter shew, which makes me name it.

We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side, and vpon our right hand they shewed vs (91) this place, where they say that Salomon was anointed King.

(92) Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart, where they say, Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace, Queene of Ethropii, and baptized him.

(93) Here they say is the Desart, in which Iohn Baptist preached, and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke, and a long stone therein, vpon which he vsed to lye, and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke, where hee vsed to drinke, and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit.

(94) He e we came to the Mountaines (or Mountanous places) of Iudea, and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt, where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there.

(95) From hence a Musket shot, or little more, is another house, which, they say, belonged to Zacharias, and in one of these houses, he pronounced the Song, Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel, &c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth, the Babe here sprang in her wombe; and the Virgin here pronounced the Song, My soule doth magnifie, &c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here.

(96) From this place, they say, the Tree was taken, vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made, and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built. This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem, whether we returned the same way we came out, and en∣tered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa.

The Church built vpon Christs Sepulcher of old by the Christians at Ieru∣salem, is formerly noted by the figure (32); and wee entered the same vpon Tuesday the eleuenth of Iune towards the euening, at which time the Turkish Cady sent vs his Officer to open the dore of it, to whom we payed for tribute after the dore was ope∣ned each of vs nine zechines, and besides gaue the Officer or Ianizare a small reward for himselfe. But it is the custome, that he that hath once payed this tribute, may any time after enter this Church, without paying any thing, if he can watch the opportu∣nity of other Christians entering the same.

[illustration]

The rude, but true figure in plaine of Christs Sepulcher and the Church built ouer it at Ierusalem.

(a) By this one and only dore being of brasse, and on the South side of the Church, entrance is giuen into the said Church. They say there was of old another dore not farre from this towards the East, but now it was not extant.

(b) This marke shewes where the Belfrey stands, which is of ancient building, and now in great part was ruined, while the Turkes admit no vse of any Belles.

(A) A Marble stone called the stone of Vnction, where they say the body of Christ was imbalmed, before it was buried. And it is compassed with grates of Iron, hauing aboue it nine Lampes continually burning, maintained by the nine Sects of Christi∣ans.

(B) The Sepulcher of Godfrey King of Ierusalem, to which other lesse Sepulchers are adioyning, erected to Kings and Queenes of his Family. And this Sepulcher hath this Epitaph in Latin:

Here lyes worthy Godfrey of Bullon, who conquered all this Land to the worship of Christ, whose saule may it rest in peace. Amen.

(C) The Sepulcher of Baldwine his brother, and successor in the Kingdome, with this Epitaph in Latin:

King Balduinus another Iudas Machabeus, the Hope of his Countrey, the Life of the Church, the strength of both.

These verses added:

Quem for midabant, cui Dona, Tributa ferebant, AEgipti caesar, Dan, ac homicida Damascus. Whom Egypt, Dan, Damascus homicide, With gifts and Tributes gladly pacifide.

(D) Here is Mount Caluary, and the staires to ascend thereunto, the walles of al the building vpon it, the Altars, and the pauements, all shine with Marble, the roofe on

the inside glisters with the foresaid rich painting, which seemes to be enameled. And diuers Altars are proper to diuers Nations or Sects, for their Rites of Religion. To these Altars vpon the Mountaine, we ascended by some twenty staires; and there they shewed vs three holes, wherein the three Crosses of Christ and the two theeues were erected. And at the figure (1) (where they say the Crosse of Christ stood) they shew∣ed vs stones rent, or the rending of the Mountaine, when Christ died. Vnder this Mountaine in the corner towards the dore of the Church, they bade vs looke in at a little window, and there they shewed vs a scull, which they say was the scull of Adam, of which they say the Mountaine was called Golgotha. (2) Without the doore of the Church we ascended to a Chappell aboue this Mount, where they shewed vs an Al∣tar, vpon which they say Melchisedeck offered sacrifices. (3) Also a Chappell, where they say Abraham would haue offered Isaac. (4) The Altars of Mount Caluary. (5) A place in the way to the Sepulcher, where they say, that Christ laid downe his Crosse, and where the Virgin Marie and Iohn the Enangelist stood while he was cru∣cified.

(E) Here they shew a stone, which they call Noli me tangere, that is, Touch me not; be∣cause Christ appearing here to Marie Magdalen, vsed those words. (6) And in this place they say Marie Magdalen stood.

(FFF) Here is a retreat of certaine Chambers and Chappels, vnder the keeping of the Latin or European Friers. For they continually send two or three of their Fri∣ers to bee locked weekely within this Church for the performance of the Rites of their Religion, whom they recall at the weekes end to their Monasterie in the Citie, sending new in their place to attend that seruice. And this retreat hath onely a doore to passe into the Church, but none into the streete.

(G) The Chappell of Apparition, so called, because they say Christ there appeared to the Virgin Marie after his Resurrection.

(H) The pillar of whipping, so called, because they say, Christ was bound to it, when he was beaten with rods.

(h) This Altar they call the Altar of the holy Crosse.

(I) A most narrow prison, in which they say Christ was shut vp for a little time.

(K) The Chappell where they say, that the Souldiers diuided Christs garments.

(L) Here we descended some fiftie staires into a caue vnder the earth, which they haue made a Chappell, and here they say, the Empresse Helena found the Crosse of Christ, and thereupon built this Chappell, in which they say, foure pillars many times make a sound of groaning and sighing, and they shew the very place where the Crosse of Christ, and where the Crosses of the two theeues were found.

(N) After Christ was beaten, they say he was forced to sit here, till they crowned his head with Thornes.

(P) The Chauncell of the Church.

(p) A hole in the pauement of this Chauncell, which the Greekes (hauing the Chauncell to keepe) hold to be the middest of the World.

(q) This place lies open ouer head, hauing the Sepulcher on the West side, and two little Marble walles raised some two foote on the North and South sides, within which wals the place is paued with Marble. The walles are so high, as a man cannot conueniently sit vpon them. And in this place they vse to pray, before they enter the Sepulcher.

(r) The outward Chappell or Porch of the Sepulcher, (as I may so terme it) where the Angell is said to haue appeared to the women. And therein lies a foure-square stone, fitted to the little dore of the Sepulcher, vpon which stone roled from the dore, they say the Angell did sit, after Christ was risen.

(ss) These be seats on both sides of this outward Chappell, in which seates they vse to pray. (t) In this Chappell (so they call the Sepulcher it selfe), and vnder the stone noted with blacke, they say the body of Christ was laied. And this stone is raised as high as an Altar, and couered with Marble, as all the walles bee. The little dore by which they enter this Chappell or Sepulcher, is scarse 3 foote high, and a broad, so as

they enter it with difficulty, bending downe their bodies, as if they crept into a caue. The very stone couering the Sepulcher (or place where Christs body did lie) is some∣what raised from the ground, and hath seuen foote in length, and some sixe in bredth. This Sepulcher lyes vnder the first Globe of the Church, as the Chauncell lies vnder the second, and it lyes vnder the middle of that Globe; neither hath the Church any window, but the Globe hanging ouer the Sepulcher, is open in the roofe, and so giueth light to all the Church. And in the very Sepulcher, the burning Lampes giue light, besides that the dores lye open. And because raine must needes fall from the open Globe, the Sepulcher hath a couer borne vp with pillars of Marble, and laid ouer with Lead to receiue the raine. The Sepulcher within and without is beautified with mar∣ble, and was cut out of a Rocke before the Church was built. The Franciscan Friers are for the most part Italians, but are vulgarly called Francks, of the French who are in league with the Turkish Ottoman, and they haue the priuiledge of singing their Mas∣ses in the Sepulcher (not of free grant, but because they are best able to pay for their, priuiledges); yet it is free for any of the Christian Sects to come into the Sepulcher. They say, that from the situation of this Sepulcher, the custome came among Christi∣ans, to be buried with their feet & face towards the East, as expecting the resurrection.

(V) A Chappell kept by the Sect of the Gofti.

(X) The Sepulchers of Ioseph of Arimathea, and of Nicodemus.

(Y) The Chappell of the Iacobites.

(Z) The Chappell of the Abissines.

(X) The Chappell of the Armenians.

(X X) The Chappell of the Georgians.

Some write, that this Church hath the forme of a Crosse, and if the retreat or chambers of the Italian Friers with the Chappell of Aparition on the North side, and the two Towers of the Belfrey on the South side, be ioyntly considered with the Church, (which seeme rather-fastned thereunto then of the same building), a supersti∣tious man may faigne to himselfe the figure of a Crosse; but shall reuer plainely de∣monstrate it to others. Aboue the roofe of the Church on the outside, are two faire Globes, whereof the greater couered with leade, lies ouer the Sepulcher, and the lesse, all made of stone, is ouer the Chauncell. And this greater Globe, on the inside of the Church is beautified with engrauen. Ceder trees, and borlie vp with pillars of Marble, and the lesse hath faire pictures of the foresaid rich painting; shining like enameled worke. The breadth of the Church vnder both Globes, containes seuentie paces, and the length 140 paces and in generall as well within as without it retaines only the shaddow of the old magnificence.

We entred the Church on Tuesday in the afternoone, and were locked there in all the night following, and almost all the next day, to fulfill our deuotions. But I former∣ly said, that the Italian Friers haue chambers of retreat within the Church, in which we did eate and rest at our pleasure. Yet these chambers and the like retreats (where∣in the Priests of other Sects with their wiues, children and family doe lodge, and eate, and performe the rites of their Religion), haue not any one dore into the streete, but all enter the Church, and goe forth by the foresaid onely dore of the Church towards the South, and the key of this dore is kept by the Turkes; who open it at set times, to admit strangers, and once euery weeke, to let the Friers returne to their Monasteries, and to receiue new Friers into the Church, which are sent from thence, to performe the feuerall rites of Religion. And this dore hath a grate or little window, at which the inclosed Friers may talke with their friends without, and receiue meate sent them from their Monasteries.

Nine sundry Sects of Christians haue their Monasteries within this City, by whom * 5.46 the great Turke and his officers haue great profit, and the Turkes them selues repute all the monuments and places holy, which Christ in his life frequented but this mo∣nument of his death, and other like they despise, and keepe them onely for their profit. From the said Monasteries, Friers are weekely sent to performe their seuerall rites, and at the weekes end they are recalled to the Monasteries, and new sent in their place,

which custome I thinke they take from the Iewes. For when Dauid diuided the twentie foure Families of the sonnes of Aaron into twentie foure courses, that each of them might one after the other in due order performe the holy offices in the Temple, Iosephus writes, that these courses, or Families in order one after the other liued in the Temple from Sabbath to Sabbath, to performe those duties.

Of these nine Christian Sects, each hath priuiledges to keepe this or that monu∣ment within the Citie, and in the field, in which places they performe the rites of their Religion. And according to the number of the Sects, they maintaine nine Lampes continually burning in the foresaid common Church vpon the stone of Vnction, as many vpon the Sepulcher, and as many vpon Mount Caluarie. The nine Sects are thus called; Franks (namely, the Italians), Georgians, Greekes, Sorians, Costi, Abissines, Armenians, Nestorians, and Maronites.

The Religion of the Frankes (namely, Papists) is so well knowne, as I will omit it here, and referre it to his due place. I will onely say, that they haue the keeping of the * 5.47 Sepulcher, the Chappell of A parition (and therein of the pillar of whipping) and of one Altar vpon Mount Caluarie, for the performance of their rites.

The Georgians are a warlike Nation, inhabiting Media, and the Caspian Moun∣taines, * 5.48 and haue their name of Saint George, whom they haue chosen their protecting Saint. They haue a King, and making warre valiantly sometimes vpon the Turkes, sometimes vpon the Persians, could neuer bee conquered by either. Yea, if they bee oppressed by either, they easily finde helpe from the other, out of their mutuall ha∣tred. Therfore they pay no tribute to the Turkes, but by singular priuiledge freely en∣ter into Ierusalem armed, and with banner displaied. Neither dare the Turkes offer them the least iniurie, lest when they returne home, they should reuenge it vpon the Turkes lying neare them. Their very women are warlike, like the Amazons, and car∣rying bowes, shew valour both in countenance and behauiour. The men weare long haire on their heads and beards, saue that they all are shauen like Clerkes vpon the Crowne of the head, the Lay-men in a foure-square, the Priests in a round forme. They expresly follow the Religion, Rites, and Ceremonies of the Greekes, and in their Diuine seruice vse the Greeke tongue, otherwise speaking their owne language (as I thinke Caldean.) These in the Church of Ierusalem haue the keeping of Mount Caluary, and the Altar there built ouer the place, where they say the Crosse of Christ stood, and in the Citie they keepe the house of the High Priest Annas.

Of the Greekes Religion I must speake at large in his due place. Now I will onely * 5.49 say, that in the Church they keepe the Chauncell, and therein shew a hole in the paue∣ment compassed with Marble, which they say is the very middle point of the world. Against which opinion I argued with them, and obiected, that the earth is round, and that in a Globe the center is in the middest, all centers in the outside being but imagi∣narie, and to be placed wheresoeuer the measurer will. Also that in measuring (after their manner) the outside of the earth, Palestina was farre distant from the Equinocti∣all line, which diuideth the World into equall parts. And if Palestina were iust vnder that line, yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian, should be the middest of the World, as well as Palestina. They answered, that Dauid saith in his Psalmes; In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation. To which I replied, that the middest of the World was there taken for the face, and in the sight of the World, so as none should be able to denie it. Whereupon they grew angry, and said, that the Scripture must be beleeued, in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers. It had been vaine to dispute further with them, there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem. And to say truth, (if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Veneti∣ans), they haue few or no learned men. For my part, I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke, but onely one, called Milesius, who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople. And these Greekes, as in this point, so in all other, follow the literall sense of the Scriptures. For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament. And

whereas Saint Paul saith, Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife, &c. they so interpret it, as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage, yet he may neuer marry againe.

The Sorians are so called of Syria, in which Prouince they liue, hauing their owne * 5.50 Patriarke, neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith: for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter, that they say rather be∣longeth to them, in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch. They agreed with the Greekes in many things, they denie Purgatorie, they fast foure Lents in the yeere, they permit their Priests to marrie, they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice, and otherwise speake their owne language (which I take to be the Arabian tongue.) In Ie∣rusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and of Nico∣demus, and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke, noted with the fi∣gure (37.)

The Costi are Egyptians, dwelling about Numidia. They retaine the heresie of * 5.51 Arrius, and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines. This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers, who are to be blamed if it be not true. These in the Church keepe the Chappell, wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried, and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie, where they say the scull of Adam lies, and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie.

The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk, and they are subiect to their King * 5.52 Preti-Giani. They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip, and themselues are baptized not onely with water, but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron, gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water, out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist; I baptise you with water, but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire. Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision, like wary Nota∣ries, who fearing to faile in their assurance, neuer think they haue vsed words enough; yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes, and thinke their Altars defiled, if they doe but looke vpon them. They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children, and they (as all the rest excepting the Franks, that is, Papists), giue it in both kindes. When they sing Masse or Psalmes, they leape and clap their hands, and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions. They vse their owne, that is, the Egyptian tongue, in Di∣uine seruice, and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time, do greatly maccrate their bodies. In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher, and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes.

The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta, which they inhabite, and * 5.53 they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon, whom they reuerence as another Pope. They disagree with the Greekes, and rather apply themselues to the Franks, yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth, but fast that day. They keepe the Roman Lent, but more strictly, abstaining from Fish, and very Oyle (which they vse for butter), but vp∣on some Holy-dayes in that time, they eate flesh. They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament, as the Papists doe, but with them, they lift vp the bread, (yea and the Cup also) to be worshipped. Of old, with reseruation of customes, they ioy∣ned themselues to the Roman Church; but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies, they quickly fell from him. The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads, but in the forme of a Crosse, and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long, in two tusts, placing therein great Religion. In the Church they keepe the pillar, where they say the garments of Christ were parted, and lots cast vpon his Coate, and in the Citie, the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded, and the house of the High Priest Caiphas, vpon Mount Sion.

The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius, who infected the Persians, * 5.54 Tartars, and Iewes, with his heresie. They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes, and that to children as well as men. They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice, and otherwise the Arabian. In the Church they keepe the prison, where∣in they say Christ was shut vp.

The Maronites inhabite Phanicia, and the Mount of Libanus, and they vse the Sy∣rian

* 5.55 tongue in their diuine seruice, namely, (as I thinke) the Arabian. And they said, that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem. Some make mention of a tenth sect, namely, the lacobites. (named of Iacob, Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexan∣dria), who liue mingled among Turkes & Tartares, inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike, partly the Prouinces of India. I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there, neither yet to haue heard any mention of them; yet others write that they ad∣mit circumcision as well as baptisme, and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron, in some conspicuous part of their body, that they confesse their sinnes onely to God, not to their Priests, that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ, that in to∣ken of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger, and giue the Sa∣crament of our Lords Supper in both kinds, yea, to Infants, as well as to those who are of full age.

I cannot omit an old Spanish woman, who had for many yeeres liued there, locked vp in the Temple, lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher, and hauing her diet by the Friars almes. Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage, that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres, and in that time had alwaies liued in the Church, and that shee would not refuse any opportunity to goe backe into Spaine, but otherwise would die there, & thereby thought to merit much of God. Neither doe I thinke shee lost the hope of this vaine merit, since it was not easie to find a man who would carry an old woman, and beare her charges so long a iourney.

The stone of vnction in the Church, is common to all the nine Christian sects, neither doe the Keepers of any other monuments refuse any Christian to enter into them, but onely by priuiledge keepe their Altars priuate to themselues. Most of the sects haue their Monasteries in the City, and (as I formerly said) each of them hath the priuiledge to keepe some monuments, as well within as without the wals. But some of the sects only come to Ierusalem at solemne feasts, and dwelling neere the City, easi∣ly maintaine a Friar or two, to keepe their monuments, and so are freed from the ne∣cessity of building a monastery in the City.

Vpon Wednesday the twelfth of Iune towards euening, the Turkes did open the Church to let vs out, and each of vs Lay-men gaue the chiefe Turke thirty meidines, and the Doore-keeper twenty of free gift; and for the waxe candles burnt the night before in the Church, each gaue sixty meidines to one of our Italian Friars. This done, we returned to the Monastery, where we lodged, with great ioy that we were present∣ly to goe backe to Ioppa.

I formerly said that the Franciscan Friars with whom we lodged, were of Europe, whether at three yeeres end they were to be recalled, and some fifty new Friars to be sent hither in their place, which still each third yeere vse to be changed. And these Fri∣ars are called the Family of Frankes, for the great Turke permits them as French to liue there, and forbids the comming of any Spanish or Roman Friars: yet are they for the most part of Sicily, Naples, or Rome; but denying their Countrey, affirme that they are Venetians, and if they were knowne to be subiects to Spaine or Rome, they should incurre great danger. Of them some few are indeed Venetians, and at this time some two were Frenchmen. All these liue of the aimes of the Merchants in the East of their Religion, who for the most part are Italians, and especially Venetians: yet hath the Monastery also some rents of Lands giuen to it of old in Sicily and in Spaine; and from thence they bring with them euery third yeere at their first arriuall, a present of great value to the Turkish Ottoman. I said formerly, that of old the Venetians yeer∣ly sent a gally to carry Pilgrimes to the Holy Land, till the Christians were so oppres∣sed by exactions of the Turkes, as they rarely vndertooke that iourney, and so the Ve∣netians also left that custome. From that time this Family of Frankes, (so these Friars are called) vseth to passe in a Venetian ship to Cyprus, and from thence to Ioppa, in the Holy Land, hiring there a Graecian barke to that purpose; and in like sort the old Family vpon the arriuall of the new, returnes into Italy. And as soone as this family arriueth, they disperce themselues, the greater part abiding at Ierusalem and Bethlehem,

and some single men or couples being sent to doe the office of Priests at Cayro (or Ba∣bylon) in Egypt, at Haleppo in Asia, (where most part of their Merchants reside) and at Scanderona, (of old by all, and still by Christians called Alexandretta). These Friars thus dispersed, are not onely maintained by the Merchants to whom the are sent, but they also send from them large almes to the rest at Ierusalem, and they often change places, that all may equally beare these burthens.

We being now to take our iourney from Ierusalem, many Christians and Iewes brought vs diuers toies, to buy and carry with vs, being of no worth, saue onely that they were far fetcht, namely, beades for Papists to number their praiers, and also cros∣ses, both made of the earth whereof they say Adam was formed, or of the Oliue trees of Mount Oliuet, or of Terebinth, (vnder one of which trees they say the Virgin Mary rested, when shee carried Christ an Infant to be presented in the Temple,) and round stones called Cornioli, of yellow colour, and others of white, called the Sea-water of In∣dia. Also girdles of the Virgin Mary, & glistering stones of little price (as all the rest are.) Among which they attribute to the stone of Indea, the vertue to prouoke vrine, to the Eagle stone called Aquilina, the vertue to expell poyson, to facilitate the birth of chil∣dren, to heale the falling sicknesse, to restore woemens milke, and so to diuers stones, diuers and incredible vertues. Besides, our Franciscan Friars gaue each to his friend and the Guardian to vs all, Agnos Dei, Dust and little stones taken from the foresaid monuments, for a great treasure to be carried to our friends at home. Moreouer they gaue to each of vs freely and vnasked (as it seemes of custome) as well to vs Lay∣men as to the Friars, a testimony vnder the seale of the Monastery, that we had beene at Ierusalem, and for better credit, they expressed therein some markable signes of our faces and bodies.

Now there remained nothing but the Epilogue of the Comedy, that we should make some fit present to the Guardian of the Monastery, in satisfaction for our diet, and the curtesie of the Friars towards vs, which my selfe and my brother thought ve∣ry fit to be done: but two of the Friars our consorts, either wanting money, or vsed to eate of free cost, did not onely refuse to giue any thing, but perswaded the French Lay-men to ioine with them in deniall thereof. The third Friar our consort, and for his experience vsed by the other as a conductor, hearing this, did vehemently reproue them, vsing these words in French; Que voules vous doncques payer en blanche? (that is, what will you then pay them in white?) which phrase they vse when a man requites a curtesie in words, or faire written promises, not really. They on the other side, no lesse angry, answered that it was vnfit and irreligious for Friars to extort gifts from Chri∣stian Pilgrimes. My selfe and my brother laughed to our selues hearing this difference, for we found now, and had often heard, that these Friars were most deate Hosts, and that as they in England, who referre their payment to pleasure, are alwaies ouer-paid, so these Friars asking nothing for diet, yet vnder the title of gift or almes, expect more then any the most greedy Host could demand: yet lest we should prouoke them, ei∣ther to hinder our departure, or to doe vs any shrewd turne, as they most easily might doe: yea, left they should surmise my selfe and my brother to be authours or partners of this conspiracy, I perswaded the French Lay-men our consorts, that howsoeuer the Friars still remained obstinate to giue nothing, yet we foure should present the Guardian some sixe zechines. This effected, the Guardian, dismissed vs for good sons, yet in truth we were wel contented with this faire occasion to restraine our gift, which howsoeuer it were farre from bounty, yet was it free from base sparing, since we gaue at Bethlehem for our diet another present to those Friars, and while we visited the mo∣numents of Ierusalem, being daily abroad, and commonly dining in Villages, we were onely beholding to these Friars for some ten suppers, besides that we had alwaies pro∣fessed pouerty (most safe to strangers). To which may be added, that in this Prouince, (whether for abundance of all things, or want of mony) all things were sold at cheap rates for when we went out to see the mountains or hill Countrey of Indea, and dined in a Village, I remember we bought twentie egges for a meidine, and a pound of mut∣ton for fiue meidines, foure cakes for one, and a hen for two meidines and a halfe. In

the Monastery they gaue vs enough of mutton: hennes and sallets, and of good wine, but some what sharpe; & the Friars our consorts did eate continually with the Friars, and we Lay-men by our selues, the Friars onely once inuiting vs to eate with them in the publike Refectory.

If this discourse makes any surmise that we did some things against our conscience while wee liued in this Monastery, let him reade the foure and twentie Precept of Dissimulation in the Chapter of Precepts, the third Part, and the first booke, wherein I haue explaned my opinion of the outward reuerence of the body shewed in time of the Papists Diuine seruice. And for the rest, let him know, that I now con∣fesse (as I did formerly) that we therein erred, that we did not first goe to Constantino∣ple or Haleppo, from whence hauing a Ianizare to guide vs, chosen by our Ambassador or Merchants, we might haue escaped many of those troubles, which now we endured being alone, and that with no greater charge then now we were at, since these troubles increased our charge; and might also easily haue obtained any courtesie at these Fri∣ers hands, or at least haue seene Ierusalem safely, though they were ill affected to vs. But since many things diuerted vs from this course, and now we were fallen into these Italian Friars hands, we thought best to bring our selues out of this danger by discre∣tion and moderation in our deeds and words. Also I confesse, that in those dayes my conscience was not so tender, as since (by the grace of God) I haue found it, yet was it neuer so insensible, as it could haue passed ouer the worshipping of an Idoll, or the denying of my faith. If I had heere gone to Masse, it would seeme no wonder to our English Gentlemen, who haue liued any time in Italy; and I am confidently of opini∣on, that no man returnes home with more detestation of the Papists Religion, then he who well instructed in the truth, hath taken the libertie to behold with his eyes their strange superstitions, which one of experience may well see, without any great partici∣pation of their folly. For my part, as I had alwayes beene vnwilling to be present at their Masse, so I abhorred: from the receiuing of the Lords Supper with them. And this was the highest mischiefe, which we could be forced to incurre at Ierusalem. Now for the Communion of our Lords Supper, except it be in great sicknesse and danger of death, they neuer impose it so earnestly on any man, as hee may not with discreete an∣sweres put it off till another time, without all suspition of contrarietie in Religion. For their Masses, they neuer sing or mumble them, but in the mornings, and that fasting. Now wee came the fourth of Iune in the afternoone to Ierusalem, and the fifth and sixth dayes we went abroad before full day, to see the Monuments, and returned not to the Monasterie till night, at which time the greatest offence to our conscience that could happen, was to heare them sing Psalmes in their Chappell. Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem, where my brother falling sicke, we had scarse leasure to satisfie our curiositie, much lesse to be present at any vnpleasing rites of their Religion. Vpon Saturday, the eight of Iune, our consorts returning to Ierusalem, wee tooke, occasion by my brothers sicknesse to stay at Bethlehem, and came not to Ierusalem till Sunday at night. On Munday the ninth of Iune we visi∣ted the Mountaines or Hill Countrey of Iudea, at which time my brother was so ill disposed, as our Consorts themselues doubted his death, and for my part, I was all the day troubled with a weaknesse of bodie. And because the greatest danger of our participating with them in their Rites, was like to bee, when we should be locked with them in the Church of the Sepulcher, which onely remained to bee seene by vs, I made such vse of this my brothers and my owne weakenesse, as increasing their opi∣nion of his danger, and my selfe taking many occasions to make them thinke my sicknesse the greater: it happened that in the euening, our Consorts burning with desire of returning homeward, appointed the next day for the visiting of the Sepul∣cher: but I in respect of my owne and my brothers weakenesse, desired to haue it deferred some few dayes, till the very Friers our consorts, impatient of delay, and yet vnwilling to incurre the blame of leauing vs behind them, made free offer to vs of that which wee most desired, saying, that in their chambers within the Church, they had beds for vs to rest vpon, and that they would prouide vs meate, and all necessaries,

which we could haue staying in the Monastery. We gladly took this condition, and so being locked vp in the Church of the Sepulcher vpō Tuesday the eleuenth of Iune in the afternoone, after we had satisfied our curiositie, we laid vs downe vpon the beds, and onely forbearing meate for auoiding of suspition, we rested there till Wednesday the twelfth of Iune in the afternoone, when we came forth, and returned to the Mona∣stery. The thirteenth day we had no thought but of making vs ready for our returne, and the next day early in the morning, wee departed from Ierusalem. So as in all this time, the Friers themselues our consorts, had no leasure to bee at a Masse, but onely the Sunday when we were at Bethlehem, and in the Church of the Sepulcher, when vpon pretence of sicknesse we rested on our beds. Otherwise we professed our selues Catholiques, as the Papists will be called, yet enemies to the King of Spaine, as the ene∣mie of our Queene and Country. And when our superstitious consorts, being now to leaue Ierusalem, had gathered great heapes of stones from the monuments, to carrie into their Country, and had receiued of the Guardians gift, for great treasure, holy beades, Agnus Dei, and like trash, wee so refused to take any such burthen, as still we bewailed our mistortune, that we being not to returne the right way home, as they did, but to passe to Constantinople, could not carrie such reliques with vs, left they should fall into some Turks hands, who might abuse them. And when our consorts at Bethlehem printed the signe of the Crosse with inke and a pen-knife vpon their armes, so as the print was neuer to bee taken out, wee would not follow them in this small matter, but excused our selues, that being to passe home through many King∣domes, we durst not beare any such marke vpon our bodies, whereby wee might bee knowne. Besides, it was some aduantage to vs, that the Frenchmen our consorts were of their Kings partie, and professed no lesse hate against Spaine then our selues.

To conclude, the Friers of our consorts told me and my brother, that the Guardian would make vs Knights of the Sepulcher, so we would craue that honour, which was neuer granted to any but them that craued it, in which case they offered to be interces∣sors for vs. I well knew that they had offered this honour (as they termed it) to a Plebean Frenchman our consort, and had heard, that the Friers vsed this art to get mo∣ney from Pilgrimes, making no difference to whom they gaue this title. And for my part, I neuer affected titles, thinking better to be of an interiour condition with plenty, then of high degree with want. Therefore I so answered them, as giuing due thanks for their courtesie, yet I professed, that if I were worthy of that title, I might not craue it, nor receiue it offered, in respect of the oath imposing militarie duties vpon me, and the profession of seruice to the King of Spaine, the publique enemy of our Country; besides that, I should be tied thereby, to hate and prosecute all of the refor∣med Religion, which many of my friends and kinsmen professed. It is true that if wee had had a Ianizare to guide and protect vs, wee might haue lodged in Terusalem with some Christian, who would haue shewed vs the monuments, without troubling the Italian Friers, And it is well knowne, that the great Turke giues libertie to all Religi∣ons. But the other Sects of Christians being poore, and these Friers being full of mo∣ney, as well the Christians as Turkes depend greatly vpon them, so as if they would, they might easily haue brought vs into danger, neither could wee haue had such con∣uenient diet and lodging with any other as with them. And howsoeuer by our Mer∣chants helpe we might haue obtained letters from the Italian Merchants at Haleppo, for our entertainement and good vsage in this Monastery, yet since for the foresaid reasons we had at Cyprus committed our selues to the protection of the Friers our con∣sorts, we had now no meanes but honest dissembling to free our selues from danger. For it had been easie for these Friers secretly to haue drawne vs into danger of life, and we knew that Papists make no conscience, or rather thinke it meritorious to vse like practises against those of our Religion. And if they would not practise against our liues, yet we knew that they might haue cast vs into many dangers, both here and in our returne through Italy, if wee should haue prouoked them to wish vs ill. Therefore this our foresaid dissembling may well bee excused, especially since thereby wee did not in any sort wound our consciences to my best remembrance.

Now that this dissembling might proue more profitable and honest, it behooued vs thorowly to know our consorts, and so to apply our selues to them. Of which the two French Lay-men were yong, and of no experience in the World; and one of the Friars was more simple then simplicity it selfe, so as small art was required to deceiue these. The second Friar had beene a Souldier in the warre of France, and had made himselfe Friar after the peace, onely to escape the priuat reuenge of some, whose friends he had killed, for they neuer seeke reuenge of those that put on a religious ha∣bite, and to gaine this mans loue, it was sufficient to vse good fellowship towards him. The third Friar had a sharpe wit, ioined with the wisdome of experience, so as all the rest chose him for their guide, and to gouerne their expences. And because he might easily incense our consorts, and the Friars at Ierusalem against vs, we thought good to gaine his good will, by all good respects to him; so as howsoeuer we were not igno∣rant to manage our owne affaires, yet ioining our selues to the rest, we made him also gouernour of our expences, to witnesse our confidence in his loue, and cared not to beare some losse, so we might bind him to vs vnder the title of friendship, which we easily effected with him, being of a curteous disposition. To conclude, I did often ex∣perience his good will, and howsoeuer I found him louingly and courteously to make vs respected, as well of our consorts as the Friars at Ierusalem, yet I perceiued by many and cleere arguments, that he thought vs to differ from him in religion. For in par∣ticular when I refused (for the foresaid reasons, and with due modesty) the Friars of∣fer to make me Knight of the Sepulcher, he smiling, said to me, (alluding to my name) in the French tongue; Enverité vous estes fin, &c. That is, in truth you are crafry as your name imports, but I will endeauour to make the Guardian interpret your excuse to the best. Besides his friendship, it was no small aduantage to vs, that our stay at Ie∣rusalem was so short, as the time permitted them not to inquire after our religion. By the aforesaid art we freed our selues from all danger, yet would I not aduise any by imitating vs to incurre the like, who can haue the foresaid better commodities of per∣forming this iourney, since it would bee hard for any so to disguise their condition, who haue not first had good practice and acquaintance with Friars in Italy, as my selfe had. Besides that, all our skill was sharpened to greater warinesse, by a late Tragicall example of others, the memory whereof was daily and hourely before our eies.

For we beheld vpon the wall in the chamber where we lodged, the names written of Henry Bacon, and Andrew Verseline, (two English Gentlemen), of Abraham Serwen∣terb Frederichson, and Henry Vonwildt, Peterson Van Narden, (two Flemmings), whose names were written there vpon the foureteenth of August, 1595, and lay before vs, both sleeping and waking, warning vs like so many prodigies or visions to take wary beed to our steps. These foure comming in company to Ierusalem, had beene receiued into this Monastery, and when they had seene the monuments within and neere Ieru∣salem, they went to Bethlehem, where it happened that vpon a health drunke by the Flemmings to the King of Spaine, which the English refused to pledge, they fell from words to blowes, so as two of them returned wounded to the Monastery of Ierusalem. Then these Italian Friars, (according to the Papists manner, who first make the sicke confesse their sinnes, and receiue the Lords Supper, before they suffer Physitian or Apothecary to come to them, or any kitchin physicke to begluen them): I say the Friars pressed them to confesse their sinnes, and so to receiue the Lords Supper, which when they refused to doe, it was apparant to the Friars, that they were of the reformed Religion, (whom they terme heretikes): Whereupon the Friars beganne to neglect them (I will not say to hate them): and while the two which were wounded staied for recouery of their health, and so detained the other two with them; it happened that the third fell sicke. So as none had their health now, but Master Verseline, who louingly and like a seruant more then a friend, prouided all necessaries for his companion Ma∣ster Bacon, till at last himselfe also fell sicke, and was the first of them that died. Then within eight daies space, all the rest died, either for that they were neglected by the Fri∣ers, (which I thinke sufficient in that Countrey to cast away any in their case), or by their too much care, namely by poison (as some suspect): for the Friars haue one of

their order, who is skilfull in physicke, and hath a chamber furnished with cooling waters, sirops, and other medicines most fit for that Countrey. When they were dead, the Friars gaue into the Turkes hands, the bodies of the two Flemmings and Master Verseline, (who had little store of crownes, which belonged to the great Turke, as heire to all strangers), and the Turkes permitted them to be buried vpon Mount Syon with∣out the wals, in the Church yard proper to the Christians of Europe: But Master Bacon, ouerliuing the rest, and now seeing his life to depend vpon the Friars care of him, shewed a Nouice Friar long bracelets of peeces of gold twined about his arme, and promising to giue them all to him, and greater rewards if he would goe with him into England, so as he would take care of him in his sickenesse, he had perswaded the young Friar to goe with him into England, and to promise him faithfull seruice there: yet when this Nouice at his confession made this knowne, and after verified as much to the Guardian and chiefe Friars, I know not whether the hope of this booty made him die sooner, but I am sure he liued very few daies after. And giue me leaue to tell the truth, these Friars either to gaine his money, (which was due to the Great Turke), or for feare that inquisition should be made by the Turkes after the cause of his death, appearing by manifest signes vpon his body (as others suspected and reported), I say these Friers buried this Gentleman in a yard of their Monastery secretly, which if the Great Turke or any of his Magistrates had knowne, no doubt they would gladly haue taken this occasion to extort much money from the Frires, since by the like forged accusations, they vse sometimes to oppresse them; the very Turkes hauing at other times themselues buried dead bodies within the circuit of the Monastery, and after caused them to be digged vp, as if they had beene casually found; and then cry∣ing that their Ottoman was deceiued, put the Friars to pay large ransomes for redee∣ming of their liues. And let no man wonder that these hungry Gouernours of Ci∣ties and Prouinces in Turkey, should vse like frauds to intrap Christians, (as they doe very frequently,) since they buy their Offices, and many times are recalled, before they be warme in their seats, if any man at Constantinople offer larger summes for their imployment.

So as this one Prouince of Palestine, and one City of Ierusalem, (though hauing small or no trafficke), hath had in one yeeres space foure Zaniacci, the old being re∣called to Constantinople, assoone as his successour had outbribed him there. And this is one of the greatest mischiefes in this Empire, since starueling flies sucke much more, then those that are fully gorged. The foresaid Zaniacco is chiefe Gouernour for mili∣tary and ciuill affaires of all Pallestine, and lies at Ierusalem in the house of Pontius Pi∣late. His Substitute or Liefetenant is called Catake, who cast one of our consorts for a time into prison, because he complained of the Turkish exactions, and his owne po∣uerty. The third Magistrate is called Cady, who gouernes Ecclesiastiall matters, and dwelt in Salomons house (as they call it) at Ierusalem, neere the yard of the old Temple of the Iewes, (in which now a Turkish Mosche was built); and of this man we had our leaue to enter the City, and to see the sepulcher, and being called before him, we were commanded to put off our shooes, he sitting crosse leg'd (like a Tailor) on the ground vpon a Turkey Carpet. The fourth Magistrate was called Agha, who kept the Castle of Ierusalem, and when we walked one euening on that part of the roofe of our Mona∣stery, whence we had the fairest prospect into the City, he sent a messenger to com∣mand vs to retire from beholding the Castle, or otherwise he would discharge a peece of Ordinance at vs.

CHAP. III. Of our iourney from Ierusalem, by land to Ha∣leppo, by Sea to Tripoli in Syria, by land to Ha∣leppo and Scanderona, and of our passage by Sea to the Iland Candia.

VPon Friday the fourteenth of Iune, in the yeere 1596 we went out of Ierusalem, and by the same way, and in the same * 5.56 manner as wee came, rode backe to Ramma, deliuering to our guide as many zechines as before, to pay for the Tur∣kish exactions, and to our Muccari for their Asses which we had hired. Neither did any memorable thing happen to vs by the way, saue that when we came neere to Ramma, and by chance rode ouer the place of buriall for the Turks, where some women were then mourning for their dead friends, they thinking it a reproch that we should ride ouer their graues, did with inraged countenances fling stones at vs, till wee appeased them by dismounting from our Asses. The fifteenth of Iune we came backe to Ioppa, where our guide gaue three meidines to a Ianizare, that hee would beate with a cudgell cer∣taine Arabians, who had offered vs wrong by the way, which hee did readily and roundly. Then without delay we went aboard our little Greeke Barke, which (accor∣ding to our bargaine at Cyprus) staied here for our returne. For the Master thereof was further tied to transport vs from hence to Tripoli in Syria, neither had he yet recei∣ued full paiment for transporting vs hither, the money being left in Cyprus with an Ita∣lian Merchant, who was to pay it him at his returne, if hee brought a testimony vnder our hands, that he had performed his bargaine to vs. This condition we made proui∣dently, and by aduice of experienced men, for otherwise the Master of our Barke, vp∣on any profitable occasion, would haue left this port before our returne from Ierusa∣lem, and wee should hardly haue found another Barke here, in a place not much fre∣quented with ships. Besides that the restraint of the money, not to be payed but vp∣on a testimony brought vnder our hands, was a good caution, that he should not vse vs ill, nor any way betray vs. The sixteenth of Iune vpon Sunday by twilight of the morning, we set sayle from Ioppa, and coasting the shoare of Asia, had the land so neere vs euery day, as wee might easily distinguish the situation of the Cities and Territo∣ries. And first we passed by the Citie called Caesaria Philippi, seated in a Plaine, and * 5.57 twentie fiue miles distant from Ioppa, which of old was a famous Citie, but now for the most part ruined, and become an infamous nest of Turkes, Moores and Arabians. Here Christ raised to life the daughter of Iairus, and healed the woman, which for twelue yeetes had a flux of bloud. And here Saint Peter did baptize the Centurion Cornelius, and Saint Paul in the presence of Foelix disputed with Tertullus. Here Titus the sonne of Vespasian landing, when hee came to destroy Ierusalem, cast great multi∣tudes * 5.58 of Iewes to wilde beasts to be deuoured. In the right way to Tripoli, Antipatris was not farre distant, which Herod did rebuild, and thither the souldiers did leade Saiint Paul, by the command of the Tribune Lysias, but we could not see this Village. Next, we did see the Pilgrims Castle, now called Tortora. Then we sailed by the Pro∣montory (hanging farre ouer the Sea) of the Mountaine Carmelus, made famous by * 5.59 the aboade of the Prophet Elias. Then we passed within sight of the old Citie Ptole∣mais, after called Achon and Acri, seated in a faire playne within a Creeke of the sea of * 5.60 the same name, and compassing the Citie. And such afaire plaine lyes all along the Coast from Ioppa to Tripoli. This Citie was famous by the armies of Europe, passing to conquer these parts, and at this day it hath a large circuit, compassed with walls, and a commodious Hauen, and is thirtie fiue miles distant from Caesaria. From hence sal∣ling twentie miles, we passed by the Citie Tyrus, then called Sur, the ruines whereof * 5.61 witnesse the old magnificence. The seate thereof seemed most pleasant, being built vpon a low Rocke, in the forme of a Peninsule, which Rocke was part of a high Pro∣montory

hanging ouer the sea. And it may appeare how strongly it was fortified of old by Quintus Curtius, relating the difficulties with which Alexander the Great took and subdued the same. When we had sailed some ten miles further, we did see the ru∣ines of Sarepta, where the Prophet Eleas lodged with a widdow, in the time of a great * 5.62 famine. After we had sayled some twenty miles further, we did see and passed by the City Sydon, now called Saetta, seated on the North side of a Promontory, and lying * 5.63 towards the West and South, to the very sea side. These most pleasant Territories are inhabited by wicked people, but God sent vs a faire wind, by which we escaped from them, into whose Ports if we had beene driuen, they would haue taken all lust and vniust occasions to extort money from vs, if they did vs no worse harme. Menti∣on is often made in the Holy Seriptures of Sydon, Tire, and these Territories, as well in the old as new Testament, the particulars whereof I omit. Here first we did gladly see the hils and high tops of Mount Lybanus, being a very pleasant and fruitful moun∣taine, * 5.64 the wines whereof are carried as farre is Haleppo. The Castle Barutti is some two miles distant from the Promontory of Saetta, and it is seated vpon the North-side of * 5.65 a hil, hanging ouer the sea. Here they say that Saint George deliuered the Kings daugh∣ter, by killing a Dragon: And to this place, as also to Tyre and Sydon, there is great con∣course of Merchants, who haue their chiefe trafficke at Damaseus, and especially at Ha∣leppo. From hence we passed ten miles to Biblis; then after ten miles saile, we passed by * 5.66 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and againe after ten miles saile by a Promontory, which the Italians call Capo Peso.

Lastly we passed ten miles sailing by a most pleasant plaine, and so vpon Thursday the seuenteenth: of Iune landed at Tripoli of Syria, (so called for difference from * 5.67 Tripoli in Africke), The Hauen is compassed with a wall; and lies vpon the west-side of the City, whereif were many little Barkes, and some Shippes of Marsiles in France. The Hauen is fortified with seuen Towers, whereof the fourth is called the Tower of Loue, because it was built by an Italian Merchant, who was found in bed with a Tur∣kish woman; which offence is capitall as well to the Turke as Christian, if he had not thus redeemed his life. Vpon the Hauen are built many store-houses for Merchants goods, and shops wherein they are fet to sayle. The City of Tripoli is some halfe mile distant from the Hauen, to which the way is sandy, hauing many gardens on both sides. In this way they shew a pillar fastned vpon a hill of sand, by which they say the sand is inchanted, lest it should grow to ouerwhelme the City. Likewise they shew other pillars, vnder which they say great multitudes of Scorpions were in like sort in∣chanted, which of old wasted all that Territory; and they thinke that if these pillars were taken away, the City would be destroied by the sand and Scorpions. The length of the City somewhat passeth the bredth, and lieth from the South to the North, sea∣ted vpon the side of an hill, so cut by nature as it conueyes a brooke into the streetes. Vpon the West side of the City, towards the South corner, is a Castle vpon a high hill, which the French men built of old to keepe the Citizens in subiection, and therein the Great Turke to the same end keepes a garrison of Souldiers, vnder his Agha or Gouernour of the City. Vpon the East side are two bridges ouer the foresaid brooke, whence many pleasant fountains spring, which running from the South to the North, passe through the streetes of the City, and then water the gardens. Beyond this brooke are fruitfull hils, and beyond the hils Mount Lybanus lies; so high as it hinders all fur∣ther prospect, which mountaine is very pleasant, abounding with fruitfull trees, and with grapes yeelding a rich wine. Vpon the North side without the gates, are many most pleasant gardens, in which they keepe great store of silke-wormes: for the Turks sell their raw silke to the Italians, and buy of them the stuffes wouen thereof. The buil∣ding of Tripoli and of these parts; is like to that of Cyprus and Ierusalem. The streete that leades to the way of Haleppo; is broad, the rest narrow, and the aire and waters are vnhealthfull Mount Lybanus (as I formerly said) is incredibly fruitfull, and the plaine of Tripoli reaching ten miles, is more fruitfull then can easily be expressed, bearing great store of pleasant fruites, whereof one among the rest is called Amazza-Franchi, that is kill Frankes (or French), because the men of Europe died in great numbers by

eating immoderately thereof. The plaine of Tripoli did of old yeeld two hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Count thereof, as Historians write. And how soe∣uer the old trafficke of Tripoli, is for the most part remoued to Damascus and Haleppo, yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke.

It may seeme incredible, but it is most certaine, that here and throughout Syria, they haue sheepe of such bignes, as the very tailes of them, hanging in many wreathes to the ground, doe weigh twenty fiue pounds, and many times thirty three pounds.

A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French, did very well intreat vs here: and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother, with cleane sheetes, I could scarce∣ly containe my selfe from going to bed before supper, because I had neuer lien in na∣ked bed since I came from Venice to this day, hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet, with linnen breeches and stockings, vpon a mattresse, and betweene co∣uerlets or quilts, with my breeches vnder my head. But after supper all this ioy va∣nished by an euent least expected: For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes (as it were) vpon stalkes like Cabbage, (as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem); and these sheetes being made thereof, did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey, now most vnsupportable in the summer time, as I was forced to leape out of my bed, and sleepe as I had formerly done.

My Host told me a strange thing, namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt, seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus, there was a Doue-cote, & that also at Cairo (or Babylon,) farre within the Land of AEgypt, there was another Doue-cote; and because it much concernes the Merchants, to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing, he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexan∣dria, and so to let them loose, which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro, did flie thither most swiftly, and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought, vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants. This I beleeued not, till I came to Haeleppo, and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there, they seriously af∣firmed the same to be true: Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Con∣stantinople, namely, that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City, (which he thought to be false, and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts); and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City, who vsed great seuerity towards them, by restraining them from drinking wine, and from keeping harlots; and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen, and the rest were daily sought out to be punished. Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey, was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies, hauing ta∣ken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force, to row in his Gallies; besides that, for want of Marriners, he had left there twenty Gallies, which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea. Finally, that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary, but was not yet departed from the City.

Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France. But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo, agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri, for two Asses to ride vpon, and their meate; and for three tributes (called cafarri) which he was to pay for vs by the way, (comming to some twenty meidines). They call him Muccaro, who lets out Mules, Asses, or Horses; and they call him Malem, who conducts the Merchants goods. Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine, to the Gouernour of the City, and a Pi∣astro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City, for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs, (so they pretended, omitting no occasions to extort from Christians). But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro, till our iourney was ended, onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest, and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo, where we were to receiue money; left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs, should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand, to buy meat for his beasts, and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo, and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull

seruice to vs by the way. We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo. The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants, passen∣gers, and driuers of loaded Camels, keeping together, for safety against Theeues, and vsing to lodge in the open field. For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes, neither did I euer see any ride alone, but onely a horseman of the Armie, and that very rarely.

Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune, we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate, and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke, and from eight of the clocke till Noone, we passed along the Sea-shoare, and ouer high Mountaines, then ouer an vn∣tilled Plaine, seeing not one Village, nor so much as the least house by the way. Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees, we rested there the heate of the day, and fed vpon such victuals as we had, while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts. At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way, and late in the euening we came to a Village, neere which we lodged in the open field, in a pleasant plot of grasse, neere the banke of a Riuer, planted with some trees. Vpon Sun∣day wee rose early, and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea; then turning towards the Land, wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields, and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles, refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe, and giuing meate to our Asses. At three in the afternoone wee went forward, and passed by the Castle Huss, in which some say Iob dwelt, and which they say was possessed by the French, while they had the Kingdome of Ierusa∣lem. * 5.68 Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George, then possessed by Christian Fri∣ers, and seated in a pleasant Valley, yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues. And towards euening, we incamped (as I may terme it) in the open field at the foot of a high Moun∣taine. They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie, and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus, there is a Citie now called Hemps, and of old called Huss, which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob, and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss, and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Ci∣tie, which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt, and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople. Others obiect, that accor∣ding to the Scriptures, Iob could not dwell here, because they write, that hee dwelt a∣mong the Idumeans, and was robbed by the Sabeans. I dare not affirme that he dwelt here, but I dare boldly say, that I know more then Socretes did, euen two things, whereas he knew but one: first, that the Arabians to this day make excursions into these parts, robbing the Carauans that goe from Haleppo to Tripoli, so as if Iob were a∣liue, and had an hundred thousand head of cattell, they were as like to rob him here, as in any other place. Secondly, I know that we passed a sad night in this place, and neuer had more need of Iob his patience then here.

For it happened that one of the women (which the leaders of the Carauan vse to haue for their attendance) lighting a fire to make ready their supper, by chance some sparke or flame brake out of the stones wherewith it was compas∣sed, and set the drie hearbs of the field on fire, which being neglected at the first, did spread it selfe for a great compasse Whereupon the Gouernour of the Prouince dwel∣ling vpon the Mountaine, and beholding the fields on fier, sent to vs one Ianizary, ar∣med onely with a cudgell, who fell vpon the men of our Carauan, being some hundred in number, beating them with his cudgell, till they fell vpon the fier with the vpper long garments they vse to weare, and so extinguished it. In the meane time my selfe and my brother went aside, lying out of his sight, by the aduantage of a high ground betweene him and vs, where wee were astonished to see one man armed onely with a cudgell to beate a hundred men (and the very Zantons or Priests) armed with swords and many Calliuers. The fire being put out, we thinking all safe, ioyned our selues to the company againe, but soone espied our errour: for the Ianizare droue vs all be∣fore him like so many Calues, to appeare before the Gouernour, and satisfie him for this damage. And if at any time we went slowly, hee wheeled his cudgell about his head, and crying Wohowe Rooe, presently struck them that were next him. My brother

and my selfe treated with him by the way, to giue him a reward that he would dismisse vs: but when he gaue this warning, we were the first to run from him, with laughter to see our men thus driuen like beasts, and commending to our selues the honesty of the man, who first gaue warning before he struck. Then presently assoone as wee did see the Gentleman pacified, we returned againe to him, with our Muccaro to interpret our words, and told him, that we were the seruants of a Christian Merchant, and had no goods in the Carauan, nor any thing to doe with them, and offering him a reward, so he would let vs returne. For we knew that the Turks would take any occasion to oppresse vs as Christians, and that the Gouernor would haue dealt worse with the Ca∣rauan, if he perceiued that Christians were with them. Thus we often sled from him when he gaue the said signe of anger, (for howsoeuer wee offered him a gift, yet wee could not otherwise escape his blowes), and often we returned to him being pacified offering him a gift to dismisse vs, which at last wee obtained, giuing him a zechine. When we were dismissed, wee were in no lesse feare of some violence, while wee retur∣ned alone and vnarmed, to the place where our baggage lay: but going forward be∣tweene hope and feare, at last we came safe thither, and there hid our selues til our con∣sorts should returne, who after an howers space returning, told vs, that the chiefe of the Carauan, being the cause of the fire making, had paid ten piastri for the damage: and the Gouernour swore, that if the fire had gone ouer the Mountaine into the plaine field of Corne, hee would haue hanged vs all vpon the highest trees, on the top of the Mountaine. This Tragedy ended, wee refreshed our selues with meate and sleepe.

Vpon Monday early in the morning, we set forward, and spent eight howers in as∣cending the Mountaine, which was very high, but the way easie, with many turnings about the Mountaine, which of it selfe without manuring yeelded many wilde, but pleasant fruits, seeming to passe in pleasantnesse the best manured Orchards. Vpon the top of the Mountaine we met some horsemen of the Army, not without feare of some violence to be offered vs, till we vnderstood that they were sent out to purge the high waies of theeues. They were armed with Launces, Shields, and short broad Swords, so as a man would haue said, they had been the Knights of Amades de Gaule. Neither is it vnprobable, that those fictions came from the horsemen of Asia, since wee did see some mile from Tripoli, a Bridge called the Bridge of Rodomont, and a Fountaine neere Scandarona, called the Amazons Fountaine, and many like monuments in these parts. When wee had passed the foresaid high Mountaine, wee came into a very large and fruitfull Plaine of Corne, which was yet vncut-downe. Here we refreshed our selues and our beasts with meate, resting neere a Fountaine (for the Turkes require no better Inne for their beasts and themselues, then a Fountaine of cleere water.) After dinner we went forward in this Plaine, and did see some Villages, which in this vast Empire are very rare, and neere one of these Villages wee did sit downe at night, supping and resting in the open field. Vpon Tuesday earely in the morning, we tooke our iourny, and for sixe howers passed in the same Plaine, hauing not so much as the shaddow of one tree, and came to the City Aman (which in the Scripture the second of the Kings, the seuenteenth Chapter, is called Hamath) being some three dayes iourney from Da∣masco. * 5.69 This Citie is of large circuit, and pleasantly seated vpon two Hilles, (for the third Hill of the Castle hath nothing but ruines), hauing a Riuer running by it, and a∣bounding with Orchards of Palmes and fruitfull trees, and neere the same were sixe Villages in sight. Here we rested part of this day, and the next night, the Master of our Carauan hauing businesse in the City, neither imported it where we lodged; for they haue no publike Innes, nor beds in any house, nor Cookes, but euery man buyes his meate, and can dresse it. But to the end wee might be ready to goe early with the Ca∣rauan in the morning, most of vs lodged in poore houses of the Suburbs. My selfe and my brother being to sleepe in the yard vpon our owne quilts, and the yard declining from the house to the bottome, where our beasts were tied, wee laid our selues downe vpon the top of the Hill, but in the morning found our selues tumbled downe be∣tween the feet of the Asses & Camels, when I could not remember the English Innes

without sighing. This Citie hath great traffique, and aboundeth with necessaries to sustaine life, and here our Muccaro bought for vs, sower Curds (vulgarly caled Mish Mash) for two meidines, a cheese for sixe, three hennes for three meidines, twenty eggs for foure meidines, Cucumers for three, milke for fiue, Aqua vitae (which they call Harach, and drinke as largely as Wine) for ten meidines, foure pounds of wine for one zechine, Bisket (for the Turkes haue no other bread but cakes baked on the harth) for thirty meidines, which things we prouided for our Supper, and to carry with vs by the way, yet might we haue bought, and did buy most things by the way, excepting Wine and Bread, which are hardly found, and must be carried by those that will haue them. The guide of our Carauan was detained here by his businesse most part of the next day, being Wednesday, and in the meane time it fortunately happened, that a Turkish Basha, returning with his traine from his Gouernement, and being to goe our way, rested here, so as his company freed vs the rest of our iourney from feare of theeues.

Vpon Wednesday in the afternoone we setforward, in the company of this Basha, and iournied all night in this Plaine, wherein there was not the shadow of one tree, and at eight of the clock the next morning, we did sit downe in the open field, resting vn∣der the ruines of old walles. Here the Ianizaries of the Basha inquired curiously after the condition of me and my brother, so as our Muccaro aduised vs to giue them halfe a piastro, which they receiuing, promised to defend vs from all iniury, but in the meane time they did so swallow our wine, as when it was spent, we were forced to drinke wa∣ter, to which we were not vsed. Vpon Thursday at three of the clock in the afternoone, we set forward, and about midnight we came to the Citie Marrha, where our Muccaro and diuers others payed each of them ten meidines for cafar or tribute, and at the Ci∣tie Gate a man was hanged in chaines (also the next day we did see another impalled, that is sitting and rotting vpon a stake fastned in the ground, and thrust into his fun∣dament and bowels.) Vpon Friday before day wee set forward, and passing a stony barren way, but full of Walnut trees, vpon which many birds did sit and sing, wee came in foure houers space to an Hospitall, which they call Caon, and it was stately built of stone, in a round forme, with arches round about the Court-yard, vn∣der which arches each seuerall company chose their place to eate and rest, both which they must doe vpon the ground, except they bring Tables and beds with them. Nei∣ther were any victuals there to be sold or dressed, but euery man bought his victuals in the Village adioyning, and dressed it after his manner. The same Friday at foure in the afternoone, wee went forward, and riding all night, did vpon Saturday early in the morning sleepe an hower in the open field, while meate was giuen to our beasts.

Then going forward, we came by Noone, the same day being the nine and twentie * 5.70 of Iune, (after the Popes new stile, which I haue followed hitherto, being in company of Italians and Friers), to the famous Citie of Haleppo, where the English Merchants liuing in three houses, as it were in Colledges, entertained my brother and mee very 〈◊〉〈◊〉. And George Dorington the Consul of the English there, led vs to the house, wherein he liued with other Merchants, and there most courteously entertained vs, with plentifull diet, good lodging, and most friendly conuersation, refusing to take any money for this our entertainement. And howsoeuer wee brought him onely a bill of exchange for one hundred Crownes, yet when we complained to him, that we now perceiued the same would not serue our turnes, hee freely lent vs as much more vpon our owne credit. Yea, when after my brothers death my selfe fell dangerously sicke, and was forced to goe from those parts before I could recouer my health, so as all men doubted of my returne into England, yet he lent me a farre greater summe vp∣on my bare word, which howsoeuer I duly repayed after my comming into England, yet I confesse, that I cannot sufficiently acknowledge his loue to mee, and his noble consideration of poore and afflicted strangers.

The Citie Haleppo is said to haue the name of Halep, which signifies milke, because the Prouince is most fruitfull, or of the word Aleph, as the chiefe Citie of Syria, and to haue been called of old Aram Sohab (mentioned the second of Samuel, the eight Chap∣ter

and third verse), or at least to be built not farre from the ruines thereof. The Traf∣ficke in this place is exceeding great, so as the goods of all Asia and the Easterne Ilands are brought hither, or to Cayro in Egypt. And before the Portugals found the way in∣to East India, these commodities were all brought from these two Cities. And the Venetians and some free Cities of Italy solly enioyed all this trafficke of old. But after that time, the Portugals trading in East India, serued all Europe with these commodi∣ties, selling them, yea and many adulterate Druggs; at what price they listed, cutting off most part of this trafficke from the Italians. At last the French King making league with the great Turke, the Merchants of Marsiles were made partners of this trafficke, and in our age the English, vnder the Raigne of Queene Elizabeth, obtained like pri∣uiledge, though great opposition was made against them by the Venetians & French Merchants. And the Turkey company in London was at this time the richest of all o∣ther, silently enioying the safety and profit of this trafficke, (vnderstand that when I wrote this, the trafficke into the East Indies was nothing at all or very little knowne to the English or Flemmings.

This City lies within Land, the Port whereof (called Alexandretta by the Christians, and Scanderona by the Turkes) I shall hereafter describe. The building of this City (as of all houses in Syria) is like to that of Ierusalem, but one roofe high, with a plaine top plaistered to walke vpon, and with Arches before the houses, vnder which they walke dry, and keepe shops of wares. The City is nothing lesse then well fortified, but most pleasantly seated, hauing many sweet gardens. The aire was so hot, as me thought I supped hot broth, when I drew it in; but it is very subtile, so as the Christians com∣ming hither from Scanderona, (a most vnhealthfull place, hauing the aire choaked with Fens), continually fall sicke, and often die. And this is the cause, that the Eng∣lish Factors imployed here, seldome returne into England, the twentieth man scarcely liuing till his prentiship being out, he may trade here for himselfe. The Christians here, and the Turkes at the Christians cost, drinke excellent wines, where of the white wines grow in that territory, but the red wines are brought from Mount Libanus. Moreouer all things for diet are sold at cheape rates, and indeed the Turkes want not good meat, but only good Cookes to dresse it. The English Merchants can beare me witnes, that these parts yeeld sheepe, whereof the taile of one wreathed to the ground, doth weigh some thirty or more pounds, in fat and wooll. In one of the City gates, they shew the Sepulcher of Saint George, where the Turkes maintaine Lampes continually bur∣ning: for among all the Christian Saints, they onely reuerence Saint George. In a gar∣den of the suburbes I did see a Serpent of wonderfull bignes, and they report, that the male Serpent and young ones, being killed by certaine boyes, this shee Serpent ob∣seruing the water where the boyes vsed to drinke, did poyson the same, so as many of the boyes died thereof; and that the Citizens thereupon came out to kill her, but see∣ing her lie with her face vpward, as complaining to the Heauens that her reuenge was iust, that they touched with a superstitious conceit, let her alone: finally that this Ser∣pent had liued here many ages, and was of incredible yeeres. Moreouer they shew a well neere to the City, in which they report, that a chest of treasure was of old cast, so as it might be seene by passengers, and that some attempting to take it out, were assaul∣ted and affrighted with Diuels.

In this City my selfe and my brother Henry lay sicke some few daies, but by the helpe of a Iew Physician, we soone recouered our health, and for feare of wanting mo∣ney, and especially out of our desire to returne home, wee made too great haste to be∣ginne our iourney for Constantinople. If we would haue expected eight daies, the Cas∣senda, (so they call a troope of Horsemen, guarding the great Turkes treasure), was in that time to goe for Constantinople, in whose company wee might safely and swiftly haue performed this iourney, namely in sixeteene daies, whereas those who followed the slow pace of Cammels, scarcely arriue there in thirty daies. But this Prouince be∣ing extreamely hot in this time of summer, and wee being scanted of money for our long iourney, all mention of longer staying was most vnpleasing to vs. Moreouer Master George Dorington, (neuer to be named by me without mention of loue and re∣spect),

did at this time send a Carauan, (that is, Camels loaded with goods) of his own to Constantinople, and being to make a present to a Cady, returning from his gouerne∣ment to Constantinople, that he would take his Carauan into his protection, and to passe in his company, and louingly making offer to vs, to recommend vs in like sort with his goods to the same Cady, we were easily perswaded to take this iourney presently, in the company of his seruants, and of a curteous English Merchant, called Master Ias∣per Tyant, being then to goe for Constantinople. This our conclusion proued greatly to the losse of Sir Iohn Spencer, Merchant of London, whose goods these were which Master Dortngton sent with vs. For my brother dying by the way, and the great Turke being heire to all Christians and strangers, dying in his Empire, the Turkes ei∣ther thought, or fraudulently pretended that these goods belonged to my brother, and so tooke them into the great Turkes store-houses, and kept them there, till they had vniustly extorted good summes of money from Master Dorington, besides the great losse which was sustained by the seruants and Camels hired in vaine.

Being now to enter this iourney, we hired for seuenty one piastri, a Camell to carry our victuals, an ambling Mule for my brother, and a horse for my selfe, and so much we presently gaue into the hands of our Muccaro, with couenant that he should pay for the meat of the beasts. Moreouer we presently laid out one hundred and twenty piastri for diuers necessaries, namely, two long chaires, like cradles couered with red cloth, to hang on the two sides of our Camell, (which chaires the Turkes vse to ride in, and to sleepe vpon Camels backes, but we bought them to carry victuals), for bis∣ket, and a tent wherein we might sleepe, and for like prouisions. But behold, when all this mony was laid out, and the very euening before the day in which we were to be∣gin our iourney, my brother Henry fell sicke of a flux. Being amased with this sud∣den chance, we stood doubtfull for a time what to do, til the consideration of the great summes of money we had laied out, and of the difficulty to get more, made vs resolue to take this fatall iourney, yet with this purpose, when we came to Scanderona, some foure daies iourny distant, to goe no further, except in that time he recouered his health, propounding this comfort to our miserable estate, that there we might haue commodity of conuenient lodging with an Englishman, there abiding factor for our Merchants.

Vpon Thursday the last of Iune, (that I may now follow the old stile, taken here * 5.71 from the English, and generally vsed in Turkey, among the very Christians, howsoeuer hitherto I haue followed the new stile, taking it from the Venetian shippe in which I came, and from the Friers at my abode in Ierusalem); I say the last of Iune we went out of Haleppo, passing ouer stony hils, and by the Village 〈◊〉〈◊〉, where the Iewes say the Prophet Ieremy was buried. Then riding forward all that night, at last we sate downe at eight of the clocke in the morning, and pitched our Tents neere a Village, where I did see a pillar erected to Pompey, and here we rested and refreshed our selues the heat of the day. This kind of iournying was strange to vs, and contrary to our health: for we beganne our iourney at foure in the afternoone, to shun the heat of the day past, and rode all night, so as we not vsed to this watching, were so sleepy towards the Sunnerise, as we could not abstaine from nodding, and were many times like to fall from out horses. To which mischiefe we could find no other remedy, then to ride swiftly to the head of the Carauan, and there dismounting, to lie downe and slumber, with our horses bridle tied to our legges, one of vs by course walking by vs, to keepe vs from iniuries, and to awaken vs when the last Camel passed by, lest we should there be left a pray to theeues. And we hauing some two hundred Camels in our Carauan, did in this sort passe the sleepy houres in the morning, till seuen or eight of the clocke, at which time we vsed to pitch ourtents, and rest. Moreouer this greatly afflicted vs, that spending the morning till ten or eleuen of the clocke in pitching our Tent, prepa∣ring meat, and eating, we had no time to rest, but the extreme heat of the noone day, which so pierced our tents, that we could no more sleepe, then if in England vpon a Summers day we had lien neere a hot sea-cole fire. And how soeuer wee lessened this heate, by flinging our gownes ouer our Tent, betweene the sunne and vs, yet for my

part I was so afflicted with want of sleepe, and with this immoderate heate, as I feared to fall into a Lunacy, what then should a man think would become of my sickly bro∣ther in this case?

Vpon Friday the first of Iuly, towards euening, wee tooke vp our Tents, supping while our Muccaro loaded our beasts, then we rode ouer Mountaines all night, and the next morning againe pitched our Tents neere a poore Village. And our Mucca∣ro bought vs some fresh victuals in the Village, according to the manner of Turky, where the very Cities yeeld no Innes. Vpon Saturday towards euening, wee set for∣ward, and rode that night ouer a large Plaine, and next day after Sunne-rise wee came to Antioch, a citie of Asia, famous for the Patriarchate, and by Histories sacred and * 5.72 prophane. Vpon the east-side, and vpon the top of a high Mountaine, lye great ruines of the old walles and houses, whence the seat of the citie declineth to the Plaine on the West side. In which Plaine our Carauan rested the heat of this day, neere the pleasant and large Fountaine of water, wherin the Scriptures record so many to haue been baptized together, as first in this place the faithfull had the name of Christians. This Fountaine hath faire building, and seemes of old to haue been very stately, and here wee pitched our Tents in the middest of the Gardens of this Plaine within the walles. For howsoeuer the ruines of the walles shew, that of old the circuit of the ci∣tie was very large, yet scarce the hundreth part thereof was now filled with houses. Vpon the West side without the walles, the citie is all compassed with a Riuer, and a great Fen, and vpon the East-side with Mountaines, which situation makes it natural∣ly strong. Here first wretched I perceiued the imminent danger of my most deare bro∣thers death, which I neuer suspected til this day, much lesse had any iust cause to feare it. A Turke in this Carauan troubled with the same disease of a Flux, went to the ground more then twentie times each nights iourney, and yet liued; whereas my bro∣ther only three or foure times descended from his Mule to that purpose, which filled vs with good hope. But here first I learned by miserable experience, that nothing is worse for one troubled with the Flux, then to stop or much restraine the course ther∣of. For my brother stopping this naturall purge, by taking Red wine and Marmelat, experienced men did attribute (all too late) his death to no other thing. I could not hire a horse-litter by any endeuour of our Muccaro, nor for any price, though I offe∣red an incredible summe for that, or like commoditie to carrie him, and we thought it very dangerous to stay here among the Turkes, after our Carauan departed, especial∣ly since Scanderona was but fiue and twenty miles distant, where wee should haue the commoditie to lodge with an Englishman, and so to get all necessaries for his recoue∣rie. Therefore vpon Sunday in the euening, wee put all our prouisions in one of the foresaid couered chaires or cradles, caried by the Camell, and made my brother a bed in the other cradle, where (as we thought) he might commodiously rest. And I promi∣sed the Muccaro halfe a piastro for euery time my brother should descend from the Camell to ease himselfe, for wee were to ride before with the horsemen, and hee was now to come behind with the Camels. So we set forward, and my selfe twice in the night, and once towards morning, left the horsemen, and rode back to my brother, to know how he fared, and when hee gaue mee no answere, I returned to the horsemen, thinking that he slept. Then towards morning I was so afflicted with my wonted desire of sleepe, as I thought an howers rest worth a Kings ransome. Therefore my selfe and Master Iasper Tyrant our louing consort, rode a good pace to the Village By∣land, * 5.73 where we were to pitch our Tents, that we might make all things ready to receiue him.

But within short space our Muccaro running to our Tent, and telling me, that hee had left my brother ready to giue vp his last breth in the first house of the Village, see∣med to say to me. Goe quickly and hang thy selfe. With all possible speede I ran to this house, imbraced my dying brother, and confounded with sorrow, vnderstood from his mouth, how farre the euents of our nights iourney had been contrary to our hope. For whereas my selfe aduised him to leaue his Mule, and lie in the chaire vpon the Camels backe, he told me that he was shaken in pieces with the hard pace of the

Camell. And whereas I had offered the Muccaro halfe a piastro, for each time hee should light to ease himselfe; he told mee that he had often asked this fauour of the Muccaro, but could neuer obtaine it, he excusing himselfe by feare to be left behind the Carauan, for a prey to theeues. And whereas the Camels hinder parts being high∣er then the fore parts, I had laied my brothers head towards the hinder parts, and rai∣sed it as high as I could with pillowes and clothes, for his better ease, it happened (which I being ignorant of the way could not foresee) that we all the night ascending mountaines, his feet were farre higher then his head; whereupon he told me, that most part of the night he had lien in a trance, which was the cause that he could not answer me, at such times as I came to inquire of his health. Thus mischiefe lighted vpon mis∣chiefe, to make my wretched state most miserable: Why should I vse many words in a case, from the remembrance whereof my mind abhorreth. Therefore I will say in a word; My most deere brother Henry vpon Munday the fourth of Iuly, (after the old stile), the yeere of our Lord 1596, and of his age the seuen and twentieth, died in my * 5.74 armes, after many louing speeches, and the expressing of great comfort in his Diuine meditations.

The Turkes presently snatched all things that were his, as belonging to the Great Turke; yea, my selfe cast his shirts, with many other things of good value, and what∣soeuer I could see that was his, out of the Tent into the Turkes hands, and as a man halfe out of my wits, could indure to see nothing that might renew the bitter remem∣brance of him. The Turkish Officers in the Great Turkes name seazed vpon all the goods of Sir Iohn Spencer, which Master Dorington sent with vs, as if they had belon∣ged to my brother, neither could they be released, without great bribes, after the con∣trary was proued. Presently I sent for the English Factor lying at Scanderona, who scarcely obtained with the paying of fiue zechines, to haue my brothers body buried in the open fields: besides, the Ianizares, Turkes, and Moores, came in seuerall swarmes to me in this miserable case, threatning to hinder his buriall, or to dig him vp after hee was buried, except I would satisfie their insatiable extortions. And had not the fore∣said English Factor taken vpon him to satisfie these people, and taken vp my purse full of zechines, which I cast among them in a rage, surely for my part I had willingly giuen my selfe and all that I had with me, to them for a prey. One thing aboue mea∣sure afflicted me, (which I thinke Iob himselfe could not haue suffered), namely, that while my selfe and my brother were in our last imbraces, and mournefull speeches, the rascall multitude of Turkes and Moores, ceased not to girne & laugh at our sighes and teares; neither know I why my heart-strings brake not in these desperate afflicti∣ons: but I am sure from that day to this I neuer enioied my former health, and that this houre was the first of my old age.

Towards the euening the same fourth day of Iuly, we descended with the said English Factor, (taking care to haue our baggage carried) from the mountaines towards Scan∣derona, * 5.75 little distant frō this place, in the furthest Northerne part of the vally vpon the seashore. From hence Iasper Tyant our louing consort in this misery, returned back to Haleppo; but my selfe not knowing what to resolue, nor hauing power to thinke of dis∣posing my selfe, remained at Scanderona in the English Factors house. The next night while I lay waking. I heard multitudes of Woolues, (as I thought) howling vpon the mountaines of Byland, and in the morning I vnderstood by the English Merchant, that a kind of beast little bigger then a Foxe, and ingendered betweene Foxes and Wolues, vulgarly called Iagale, vsed to range vpon these mountaines in troopes, and many times to scratch the bodies of the dead out of their graues; whereupon I hired an Asse to carry me, and a Ianizare to accompany me, and went to see the place of my brothers buriall, from which part I thought to heare those howlings: And there beyond my expectation, I found that they had scratched vp the earth almost to his body, and the Turkes made no doubt, but that these beasts hiding themselues from day light, would according to their manner, returne the next night to deuoure his body. Therefore I hired many poore people to bring stones, whereof I made such a pile round about his body, as I preserued that prey from their cursed iawes, which done, I returned to

Scanderona (so called by the Turkes, which the Christians call Alexandretta.

This is a poore Village, built all of straw and durt, excepting the houses of some Christian Factors, built of timber and clay in some conuenient sort, and it lies along the sea-shoare. For the famous Citie of Haleppo hauing no other Hauen, the Mer∣chants doc here vnloade their goods, but themselues make haste to Haleppo, staying as little here as possibly they can, and committing the care of carrying their goods thi∣ther vpon Camels to the Factors of their Nation, continually abiding here. The pe∣stilent aire of this place is the cause that they dare not make any stay here: for this Vil∣lage seated in Cilicia (now called Caramania), is compassed on three sides with a Fenny Plaine, and the fourth side lies vpon the Sea. In the way to Haleppo (as I remember) towards the East, there is in this Plaine a Fountaine of cleare water, some mile distant from this Village; and howsoeuer all other waters falling out of the Fen are most vnwholsome, yet the goodnes of this Fountaine is so much prized, as the Merchants vse to carrie their meate thither, and eate there vnder a pleasant shade. Not farre from this Fountaine, there stands an old Castle at the foote of the mountaines, which they call the Castle of Penthesilea, Queene of the Amazons. On the same side, beyond the Fen, is a most high mountaine, which keepes the sight of the Sunne from Scandarona, and being full of bogges, infects the Fenny Plaine with ill vapours, and beyond this mountaine, my dearest brother lies buried. On the other side towards the North (as I remember) in the way leading to Constantinople, the like Fenny Plaine lies, and the mountaines, though more remote, doe barre the sight of the Sunne, and the boggy earth yeelding ill vapours, makes Scanderona infamous for the death of Christi∣ans.

On the same side, Asia the lesse stretcheth it selfe into the sea towards the West, and in the next shoare thereof, is a pleasant Village, now called Bias, which of old was cal∣led * 5.76 Tarsus; where Saint Paul was borne, being sixe miles from Scanderona, and seated in the same Prouince of Cilicia, and abounding with fruits, silke-wormes, and al things necessarie to sustaine life.

Scanderona on the South side towards Palestina is also compassed with the like fen∣ny * 5.77 Plaine, but farre more large then on the other sides. Finally, on the West side, to∣wards the Sea and Italy, is a safe Hauen in the furthest part of the Mediteranean Sea, towards the East. And into this Sea the Prophet Ionas was cast, and preserued miracu∣lously by a Whale, was in this part cast vpon the shoare, they say, that the Owes of the Sea doe here much increase the malignitie of the aire, yet the Sea men vse to sleep in their ships, and seldome to come on land, till the Sunne be risen aboue the mountains hiding it, and hath drawne vp the ill vapours. The foresaid mountaines of Cilicia are held for part of Mount Taurus, which in Scythia is called Caucasus, and in these parts Amanus. I haue formerly said, that these parts neere the Equinoctiall Line haue seldome any raine, but the earth is commonly moistned with the dew falling after Sunne-set. But while I staied here, a great tempest fell of thunder, haile, and raine vp∣on the seuenth of August, and the raine did not fall by drops, but by pailefuls, as wee reade it falles, but much more violently, towards West India, and neere the Equino∣ctiall Line, and as no violent thing is perpetuall, so this tempest soone passed.

Shortly after I came to this vnhappy Village Scanderona, the griefe of my mind cast me into a great sicknesse, so as I, who in perfect health had passed so many Kingdomes of Europe, at this time in the very flower of my age, first began to wax old. This sick∣nesse brought the first weakenesse to my body, and the second, proceeding of another griefe after my returne into England, tooke from mee all thought of youthfull plea∣sures, and demonstratiuely taught me, that the Poet most truly said, Cura facit canos, that is, Care maketh gray-headed.

While I languished here in a lasting sicknes, it hapned that vpon occasion, I looked vpon the two testimonies, giuen to my brother and my self at Ierusalem, of our hauing been there, and I was not a little astonished, to see that they being both at the same time cut out of the same skin of parchment, and written with the same hand and inck, yet that of my brother was in all parts eaten with wormes, when mine was altogether

vntouched. And after I did more wonder, that to this day the same Testimonie gi∣uen to my brother is no more eaten with wormes, then at that time it was, and mine still remaines vnperished.

My foresaid sicknesse was so vehement and so long, that all men doubted I would neuer recouer so as my friends in England, after they had heard of my brothers death, were aduertised within few weekes that my selfe also was dead. But for my part, though my nightly dreames, that I was walking in the caues and sepulchers of Italy, might haue somewhat discouraged me, and though I had no other Phisitian, then the Barber-Surgean of a ship, yet could I neuer doubt of recouering my health, but my minde still presaged that I should returne home. Yet when diuers times I began to 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and presently by the heate of the clime, and ill aire of the place, had been cast downe againe, I resolued to follow their counsell, who perswaded me to trie if the aire of the sea would strengthen me. Therefore my deare friend Master George Dorington hauing sent me one hundred zechines for my expences, the great summes of money which I had being all spent, by the accidents of my brothers death, and my sicknesse (the particulars of which expence I omit, because in this griefe and weakenesse I had no minde to note them, onely for a taste remembring, that I paid a piastro each day to a poore man, who continually cooled my heate with a fan.

Master Dorington, I say, hauing sent me money, and I hauing prouided all necessa∣ries * 5.78 for my iourney, at last vpon Thursday, the tenth of October (after the new stile) and in the yeere 1596, I was carried aboard a French Ship of Marsiles, partly by the helpe of Porters, partly in a boate, being so weake as I could not stand. This ship was called Iohn Baptist, and the Christian name of the Master was Simon, with whom I had couenanted, that I paying him thirtie piastri (or duckets) for my selfe and my seruant, he should set vs on land in some good Hauen of the Iland Candia, and if it were possi∣ble, in the chiefe Citie thereof, called Candia, and lying on the North side of the Iland, whence I was now resolued to take my iourney to Constantinople, leauing all thought of going by land. Vpon Friday the eleuenth of October, we sayled prosperously: but after, the windes grew so contrary, as we were driuen to the South of Candia. Therefore the French Marriners murmuring against vs, as hereticks causing their ill passage, and there being no hope left with those windes to set vs on land at Candia the chiefe Citie, the Master of our ship sent vs in his boat with some few Marriners which hee least e∣steemed, that we might sayle to land, being fiftie miles distant.

Thus vpon Thursday the three and twentieth of October, hauing sayled eight * 5.79 howers in great danger, towards the euening we landed vnder a Promontory of Can∣dia, where there was neither citie, village, house, nor cottage, so as plenty of raine fal∣ling that night, yet we were forced to lie in an open boat, where my companion (or ser∣uant) not knowing our danger slept soundly, but my selfe durst neuer close mine eyes, fearing lest these Marriners (being Marsilians, who at that time little loued the Eng∣lish), should offer vs violence to gaine our goods. This consort (or seruant of mine was an English man, and by profession a Cooke, and was come into these parts to serue Master Sandy, who being sent from London to be the English Consull at Haleppo, as he passed from Constantinople thither, died in Asia Minor, of the same disease where∣of my brother died, and in the same moneth. This seruant being (after his Masters death) to returne into England, I tooke to attend mee, that I might by his company a∣uoide solitude, and mittigate some part of my sorrow. He was no sooner entered in∣to the French ship, but he presently fell sicke, and not able to serue himselfe, could not giue me the expected comforts, much lesse doe me any seruice, but greatly increased my charge, spending all vpon my purse, & much troubled me, hauing not himselfe the least skil in any forraine language, so as he recouering not till we came to Venice (where being among Christians, I had small vse of his helpe), hee was rather a burthen then a comfort to me. When I was to enter the French ship, I laid in prouisions of Hennes, Egges, Damaske Prunes, and other things: but my languishing stomack not desiring not being able to digest any other then salt meate, these prouisions fell to the share of my sicke seruant, and my self being nothing but skin and bone, as one that languished

in a Consumption, my bloud and humours renued with these salt meates, could not but weaken my future health, so as I hauing been alwaies very leane, after (by decay of naturall heate) became very fat, and hauing lost the retentiue faculty of my stomack, so as I continually cast all that lay vpon it, so soone as in the morning I came into the aire, I had no remedie against this weakenesse, but the taking of Tobacco.

The French Marriners, who brought vs to the shoare of Candia, parted from vs on Friday the twenty fiue of Iuly (after the new stile) early in the morning, and when I * 5.80 had well rewarded them for their paines; then first they shewed me aboue the wilde Rockes, called Calisminiones, a Monastery of the Greeks, some three miles distant, and called Santa Maria Ogidietra. We being left alone, and staying there fasting till noone, at last espied, and called to vs two men passing by vpon the Mountaines, but they thinking vs to bee Pirats, fled away as fast as they could. Presently behold, my man comming out of the Wood, and bringing with him an Asse, which hee had found there, who perswaded me to lay my baggage on that beast, and so to walke softly to∣wards the Monastery. I willingly tried my strength, and leaning vpon our two swords for want of a staffe, and yet often falling, went forward like a snaile, till despairing of going further, I fell vpon the ground. After an howers space, a Shepheard passing by, and I shewing him gold, and naming Monastery, which word he vnderstood, he swift∣ly ran to the Monastery, and telling the Monkes (called by the Greekes Caloiri) our state and condition, they presently sent a seruant to vs, who in the Italian tongue tel∣ling vs the great danger wherein we should be, if we staied vpon those Mountaines till night, aduised vs to make haste to the Monastery. Thus driuen with feare, and incoura∣ged by his company, I tried againe to goe forward, and with great trouble passed one mile ouer the Mountaines. For leaning, as I said on two swords, and vpon the pas∣sage of any steepe Mountaine, by reason of the lightnesse of my head, creeping vpon hands and feete, with great difficulty I went so farre. And now being not able to goe any further, no not to saue my life, behold a boy, who came to water his Assears Fountaine adioyning, to whom the seruant of the Monkes gaue a piastro, and so whe∣ther he would or no tooke his Asse, and set me vpon it, and so at last wee passed the o∣ther two miles (longer then three English miles) and came to the Monastery. The Caloiri or Monkes receiued vs curteously, and gaue vs such victuals as they had, namely, Pomegranates, Oliues, Bread, and sharpe Wine, which were no good meates for sicke men, hauing fasted almost two dayes. Also they conferred louingly with vs, but still desiring vs to keepe aloofe from them. At bed time they gaue vs a straw mat, to lay vpon a plastred floare for our bed; but we were better prouided of Matterasses and quilts of our owne, and though lying vpon the ground, yet slept soundly, because we were in safety.

The Italians in regard of their clime, are very curious to receiue strangers in a time of plague, and appoint chiefe men to the office of prouiding for the publike health, cal∣ling the place where they meete, the Office of Health. Also without their Cities (espe∣cially in the State of Venice) they haue publike houses, called Lazaretti, and for the most part pleasantly seated, whether passengers and Merchants with their goods, must at their first ariuall retire, till the Prouiders for Health haue curiously inquired, if they come from any suspected place, or haue any infectious sicknesse. And here they haue all things necessary in abundance, but may not conuerse or talke with any man, till they obtaine the grant of free conuersation (called la prattica), or if any man speake with them, he must be inclosed in the same house, and because they stay fortie dayes there, for the triall of their health, this triall is called far'la Quarantana. Moreouer, they that goe by land in Italy, must bring a Testimonie of Health called Boletino, be∣fore they can passe or conuerse. The Venetians are more curious in this, then any o∣ther vsing this triall when there is no Plague, I know not for what reason, except it bee that the Citie of Constantinople is seldome or neuer free of the Plague, whence many of their ships come, or for that some mysterie, for the good of traffick, or of the Com∣mon-wealth, lyes hidden vnder the pretence of this custome. For no man dares enter the Citie, and conuerse there, till he haue gotten license of these Prouisors, neither dare

any Merchant dispose of his goods, till they are brought to this house, and there sear∣ched by the Officers, if they see cause. This Preface I make, because the Iland of Can∣dia is subiect to the Venetians, and the Prior of this Monastery would in no sort giue vs free conuersation, till by Letters wee had signified our state to the Prouisors of health, residing at the chiefe City Candia, and til they should send some answere backe vnto vs. In the meane time they shut vs vp in a garden house, where we had plesant walkes, and store of Oranges and like fruites, and the Country people bringing vs Partridges and many good things to eate, and my man hauing skill to dresse them, and the Monkes furnishing vs with such necessaries as wee could not otherwise buy, we wanted here no conuentence, to make the time of our abode seeme shorter, but onely good beds. Thus I was forced to write this following Letter in the Italian tongue, and to send a messenger with it to Candia the Chiefe City.

All'Illustr^mo & Excell^mo Sig^r il Sig^r Nicolao Donati, Proue∣ditore & Inquisitore Generale nel regno di Candia.

mio offeru^mo:

SA Sig^ria Illustr^ma se degna intendere, ch'io Fynes Morysoni Inghlese, con vn'mio luo∣me, si siamo partiti a li tre di questo mese, d'Alessandretta, per venir'a la volta di Candia: Et che in quel'paese tutti i contorni sono sani, come porta la mia Patente netta, sigillata col'soli∣to sigillo di San' Marco. Il Patron'della Naue Francese, in chi di la è imbarcato 〈…〉〈…〉 non man∣tenendoci la suoa parola di metterci in terra in qualche buona villa di questa Isola, ci mando con la suoa fregata a Calisminiones, doueti lascio'soletti. Di là' con gran'disagio (domandando la strada da i villani) arriuammo a i vinti cinque del presente, a San' Maria Ogidietra: doue i. Frati, fin'che conoscano la volontà di vostra Eccellenza, non ci vogliono dar'prattica in moda nessuno; Et in quel' mentre c'hanno rinchiso in vna casa a parte. Il viaggio mio è di passar'piu inanzi fin'a Constantinopoli, per i fatti dell' Illust ^mo Ambasciatore d'Inghilterra. Il perche humilmente suplico che suoa Eccell^za se degna d' hauer rispetto d' vn'pouero forestiero, anche natiuo d'vna Natione molto affectionata a la suoa: et che (per suoa gratia) mi manda libera prattica, accio che io possa seguitar'il mio viaggio, che di qua, oltre il rincrescimento della solitudine, anche ogni cosu mi da noia. Con questo assicur andomi che vostra Eccell^za haurà compas∣sione d'vn suo seruitore, con disagi grandissimi per mar' & per terra battuto, priegho Iddio per l' accrescimento del suo honore. Et le bascio humilmente le mani.

Da San' Maria Ogidie∣tre, ai vinti cinque d'Ottobre (all' vso nuouo) l' An. 1596.

Divos. Sig^ria Illust^ma Humil^mo serui^re Fynes Morysoni.

Of these Letters I receiued the following answere.

Al molto mag^co Sig^r il Sig^re Fy Morysoni, suo come fratello.

Molto mag^co Sig^r come fratello. Per le vostre lettre scritte alli 2••, del presente (al vso nu∣ouo) all ill^mo Sig^r Generali, et da ss. ss. Eccell^za mādate qui all'officio nostro, habbiamo veduto il suo bisogno, & desiderando fauorir'et agiutarla in questaoccasione, con il riguardo anco della salute pub^ca, Mandiamo duoi stradiotti per accompagnarla con il suo huomo, et condurla di qua, doue sarà ben'trattata, & li si darà commodità, di poter, con l'occasione di qualche vas∣sello, seguitar' il suo viazzo, vsate prima le debite ca••tele, per assicuration' delle cose di questo off. Però, S. S. senza pratticar' altr^te, seguitarà questa guida che le mandiamo, & vegnerà di qua con animo consolato di trouar' Christiani & amici, obedendo per adesso, & esseguendo l' ordine da noi dato a detti stradiotti, come cirendiamo certi che farà. Et. a. V. S. c' offeriamo.

Di Candia. Alli 20. a'Ottobre (all' vso vecchio) 1596.

Perierà con essa, la suoa fede, sine patente.

Div. S come frat^lli li proueditori alla Sanita'.

These Letters follow translated into English.

To the most Illustrious and most excellent Lord, the Lord Nicholas Donati Generall, Preuisar and Inquisitor in the Kingdome of Candia,

my most respected

MOst Illustrious, &c. Your Excellency may please to vnderstand, that I Fynes Mo∣rison an Englishman, with my seruant, the third of this moneth set saile from A∣lexandretta, to sayle into Candia, and that those parts are free from all infectious sicke∣nesse, as appeares by my testimoniali sealed with the wonted seale of Saint Marke. The Master of the French Shippe in which I passed, broke his couenant with me, in that he did not land vs in the Hauen of Candia, the chiefe City of this Kingdome; but sent vs in his boate to the wild Promontory Calisminiones, landing and leauing vs there, in a place altogether disinhabited. From thence we asking the way of the Countrey peo∣ple, did with much trouble at last come to the Monastery Saint Maria Ogidietra, vpon the fiue and twenty of this present (after the new stile), where the Friers, till they may know the pleasure of your Excellency, wil in no sort giue vs liberty to conuerse; but in the meane time haue shut vs vp in a solitary garden house. My iourney lies further to Constantinople, for the affaires of the Lord Ambassadour of England there abiding: Wherefore I humbly pray that your excellency will vouchsafe to haue fauourable respect of a poore stranger, borne of a Nation well affected to that of your Excellency, and that by your fauour licence may bee sent me freely to conuerse, and to take my iourney to the City of Candia, since my solitary liuing here, all delay, and many other things in this place, are irksome vnto me. Thus assuring my selfe that your Excellency will haue compassion of his seruant, tired with many misfortunes by Sea and Land, I beseech God for the increase of your honor, and so humbly kisse your hands.

From San' Maria Ogidietra this fiue and twenty of October (after the new stile) in the yeere 1596.

Your Excellencies humble Seruant. Fynes Moryson

The Letters sent me in answere thus follow;

To the noble Gentlemen Master Fynes Moryson, deare to vs as a brother.

NOble Sir, deare to vs in place of a Brother. By your Letters dated the fiue and twenty of this moneth (after the new stile) and directed to the Illustrious Lord Generall, and by his Excellency sent to our Office; we haue vnderstood your request, and desirous to fauour you in this occasion, with due respect to the publike health, we haue sent you two Horsemen, who shall guide you and your seruant hither, where you shall be curteously receiued, and shall not want the opportunity of a Barke, to fi∣nish your iourney, after we haue taken due order according to our Office) for the pre∣seruing of the publike health. Therefore without conuersing with any man, follow these guides wee haue sent you and come hither with a cheerefull heart, as to Christi∣ans and friends. But faile not to follow the order which we haue giuen to these guides, whereof we doubt not, and so tender our selues to you.

From Candia the twenty of October (after the old stile) in the yeere 1596.

Bring with you the testimony of your health.

Yours in place of brethren the Prouisors for health.

This testimoniall aboue mentioned, I tooke from the Venetian Consull (who knew my disease free from all infection) when I parted from Alexandretta, fore knowing the necessity thereof. The foresaid two horsemen being arriued, which with great curtesie were sent to conduct me, I parted from the Monastery to goe in their company to the City of Candia, eight & thirty miles distant, being to passe almost the whole bredth of this Kingdome in the very middle part thereof. The bredth of the Iland containes

fiue and forty miles, the length two hundred and thirty miles, and the circuit. (as Or∣telius writes) fiue hundred & twenty, (others say six hundred or seuen hundred miles) the ancient and moderne writers reckoning diuersly. This Iland is distant from the Cape of Otranto in Italy, fiue hundred miles; (others write fiue hundred and thirty): From Alexandria in AEgypt foure hundred and fifty miles (others write fiue hundred), from the next shoare of Affricke two hundred and fifty miles, from Ioppa in Palestine six hundred and sixty miles, (others write six hundred and forty): from Tripoli in Syria seuen hundred miles, from the Iland Cyprus foure hundred miles, from Venice 1500 miles, and from Constantinople seuen hundred and twenty miles.

We beganne our iourney in the afternoone, and as we rode, our guide shewed vs not farre out of the high way, the Monument famous for the loue of the Kings daugh∣ter Ariadne to Thesius, called the Laberinth of Crete, (for so Candia was called of old, * 9.1 and Saturne the first King thereof, begat Radamanthus, Minos, and Sarpedon, of Europa the daughter of Agenor, as they write). Also our guides told vs that not far out of the way to the city Candia, there was a monument of the caue of Minos, which the Candi∣ans call the sepulcher of Iupiter: but my former aduersities had taken from me my wō∣ted desire to see antiquities, so as we kept the high way, and passing that day by a City of the Iewes, lodged that night at a Village, not in any Inne, but in the very Church, vpon straw and our owne bedding, being content with such victuals as our guides brought vs, namely, cheese, fruites, and good wine. It is probable, that if we had had free conuersation, we might perhaps haue found good lodging in the Village, yet did we iustly doubt thereof, because we could buy no better meate, nor get any prouen∣der for our beasts. The next day in the morning we set forward, and came to a pleasant village, where we dined in a faire Church, but could get no meat for our horses, except they would haue eaten pomegranates or like fruits.

The same day in the afternoone, we came to the City of Candia, where we staied at * 9.2 the gate, till we knew the pleasure of the Prouisors for health. They could not be ig∣norant that our sickenesse was free from all infection, yet imagining (as after I percei∣ued) that we should be Merchants, & haue some rich lewels, they sent vs to the Laza∣retto, where in a weekes space, when their spies (according to their manner) had inqui∣red after our state, and found that there was no hope of gaine by our imaginary lew∣els, and it then falling out, that other Merchants being landed with goods, were to be lodged in our chamber; at last the Generall Sig^r Nicolao Donato (called Generall for his commanding in the warre, and Prouisor of health by the said Office, and chiefe inqui∣sitor for Religion, which Office is sparingly executed in the State of Venice, yet being not the chiefe Commander of the Iland; for Il Sig^r Marc' Antonio Venerio, was then Liefetenant to the Duke of Venice in this Iland, with limited authority as the Duke himselfe hath). I say this generall Prouisour for the health, sent vnto vs a Gentleman of that office, Il Sig^r Vicenzo Cornaero (who vsed vs nobly and curteously) and the Scri∣uano, (that is, Clerke or Secretary) of that office, called Il Sig^r Giouanni Papadapolo with authority to giue vs free conuersation. These Gentlemen (according to the custome, such as the state of no passenger can be hidden from them) caused ropes to be hanged acrosse our chamber, and all things we had, yea, our very shirts, to be seuerally taken out, and hanged thereupon, and so perfumed them with brimstone, to our great anoy∣ance, though they well knew we had no infectious sicknesse, which done, they gaue vs freedome to goe into the City, and wheresoeuer we would. To the Scriuano I gaue a zechine, desiring him to take it in good part, as the guift of a poore gentleman, and nothing lesse then an Indian Merchant, as they suspected. This house called Lazaretto, was built of free stone, with Cellers for the laying vp of goods, and had pleasant walks both in the yard and garden, and the Keeper of this house had furnished me with a bed and all necessaries, and for the seuen daies past, had bought vs our meat in the City, which he would likewise haue dressed, but that my seruant was a Cooke, and for this seruice he had done, I gaue him also a zechine.

Then we went into the Citie, & lodged with an Italian, who had oftē brought vs meat and necessaries to the Lazaretto, and with him my selfe and my seruant had conueni∣ent

beds, and plentifull diet, for which I paid sixe lyres each day. But the horsemen who conducted vs to Candia came often to me, and for that seruice I gaue to each of them a zechine, and by them I vnderstood the prices of the Market for diet. So as all the Candians speaking Italian, aswell as their naturall Greeke tongae, and I finding the rate of our expences to bee excessiue, I determined to hier a chamber, and to buy my owne meate in the Market. But it happened, that at the same time an English Merchant landed, who was a Factor to buy Muskedines of Candia (whereof, and espe∣cially of red Muskedint, there is great plenty in this Iland), and this Merchant called Richard Darson, being wel acquainted with the best courses of liuing in Candia, had hi∣red a little house, and a woman to dresse his meate, and at my intreaty he was content to giue vs a chamber in his house, and to hier vs two beds, that so we might dyet toge∣ther, where he vsed vs very curteously, and our dyet was as plentifull as before, at a far lower rate, diuiding our expences into three parts, whereof he paied one, and myselfe two, for my owne and my seruante diet. There was at that time great dearth of Corne, so as white bread was hardly to be got, though the Italians, making their meales for the most part of bread, vse to haue it very white and good. Here we bought a Bocale of rich Wine, containing two English quarts and a halfe for a lire of Venice; a Pigion for 7 soldi; a Partridge for a lire, or 16 soldi; a pound of veale for 7 soldi, of mutton for some 5 soldi, & we had plentie of fruits for a small price. The Beefe in Italy vseth to be leane, and is seldome eaten, and such beefe they had here; for by the Law, called Foscherini, it is commaunded, that no man shall kill a beefe, till it be vnfit to draw in the Plough, and to doe like seruice. Here I paid foure lires for a paire of shooes, the rest of my ex∣pences I omit for brenitie sake, those sufficing, to giue a passenger some guesse at what rate he may liue. Onely I will adde, that the worke of Porters and labouring men, as well in Italy as here, is had for small wages, because there is great number of poore people, and they abhorre from begging, so as one soldo contents a Porter for brin∣ging your victuals from the Market.

When I went to Ierusalem and sailed by the Iland of Candia, I made some mention thereof, and I haue now formerly set downe the length, breadth, and circuit, and the distance thereof from other Prouinces, and haue shewed that Candia is subiect to the Venetians, and haue also named the chiefe Gouernours thereof for that time. I will now briefely adde, that this Iland is defended by a Venetian Garrison against the Great Turke, to whom all the adiacent Countries are subiect. That it hath great plen∣tie of red Muskedines, where with England for the most part is serued. That it hath great plentie of all kinds of Corne, of all manner of Pulse, of Oyle, of all kinds of flesh, of Canes of sugar, of Hony, of Cedar trees, of all coloured Dyings of Cypres trees, (where of many sweete smelling Chests are made, and carried into forraine parts), and of all necessaries for human life. Neither is any venemous beast found in this Iland, but it hath store of medicinable hearbs, especially vpon the famous Mountaine Ida.

The Cities of this Iland were of old one hundred, and in the time of Pliny fortie; but at this day there bee onely three, namely, Canea at the West ende of the Iland, neere which lies the Fort Sonda, with a Hauen capable of a thousand Gallies. The second called Retbino by the Italians, seated on the South-side of the Iland, (vpon which side the Italians adde a fourth Citie called Settia), and the third called Candia, the Metro∣politan * 9.3 Citie of the Iland, which is faire and large, built of stone, with a low roofe, af∣ter the manner of Italy, and the streets thereof are faire and large. It is strongly forti∣fied (as need requires) by the Venetians against the Turkes, and to that purpose hath a strong Castle. From this Citie a large and pleasant Plaine leades to the foresaid caue of Mines, (which the Candians call the Sepulcher of Iupiter), neere which is the most famous Mountaine Ida, which they hold to bee seated in the middest of the Iland, being higher then any of the other Mountaines thereof, and it aboundeth with Cypres trees. Finally, I remember, that when I lodged in the Monastery San' Maria Ogidietra, the Caloiri (or Monkes, who for the most part are vnlearned, and till the ground, and labour like laimen), assured me that each measure of corne sowed in their fields the yeere past, had yeelded ninetie fiue measures.

CHAP. IIII. Of my iourney from Candia (partly by land, partly by Sea) by the sea shoares, and by the Ilands of the AEgean Sea, Pontus, and Propontis, to the Citie of Constantinople. And of my iourney thence by Sea to Venice; and by Land to Augsburg, Nurnberg and Stode (in Germany.) And of my passage ouer Sea into England. And of my iourney through ma∣ny seuerall Shares, of England, Scotland and Ireland.

VPon Monday the twentie of December (after the old stile) * 9.4 at three of the clock in the afternoone, we went aboard a little Greeke Barke loaded with Muskedines, and with tunnes of Lemons Iuyce (which the Turks drinke like Nectar), and with Onions, and ready to saile for Constanti∣nople, where I payed for my passage fiue zechines, and as much for my seruant. The night following was very bright with Moone-shine, yet we staied all the night in the Hauen (compassed with walles), either because the Gouer∣nour of the Castle would not let the Barke go forth, till the Master had satisfied him, or because the Master pretending that cause of stay, had some businesse to dispatch. The next morning early, being the one and twentie of December, we set saile, and the same day we sailed close by the Iland Zantorini, more then one hundred miles distant * 9.5 from Candia. They report, that this Iland; and another of the same name (both of lit∣tle circuit) were in our age cast vp in the middest of the Sea, with an eruption of flames and of Brimstone, and that they are not inhabited, but are commonly called the Di∣uels Ilands, because many ships casting anchor there, and fastning their Cables vpon land, haue had their Cables loosed by spirits in the night, and so suffered shipwrack, or hardly escaped the same. The night following we sailed in the middest of many Ilands which made that Channell very dangerous, and for my part I was more affraid of the danger, because our Candian Merchant growing acquainted with an harlot in the ship, was not ashamed to haue the vse of her body in the sight of the Marriners that watched, and much blamed him for the same. Vpon Wednesday the two and twen∣tie of December, we sailed by the Iland Paros; celebrated by Poets for the fine Marble * 9.6 growing there, and so we came to the Iland Naxos; two hundred miles distant from Candia. Naxos and the adiacent Ilands had their owne Duke of old, but now are sub∣iect to the Turke, as the other Ilands bee for the most part. And our Marriners dwel∣ling in this Iland, and landing to see their wiues, we also landed with them, where I did see vpon a Hill like a Peninsul neere this chiefe Village, two Marble images erected to Thesius and Ariadne. Here I obserued, that when any stranger or Inhabitant lands, the beggers flock to the dores of the houses or Innes where they eate, and hauing former∣ly obserued in the Greeke Church at Venice, that when they gaue their Almes to beg∣gers, they not onely suffered them to touch their garments with their lousie rags, but also tooke them familiarly by the hands, I knew not whether I should attribute this fa∣shion to their charitable affection in time of their bondage, or to their seldom feasting, and the multitude of beggars.

In the euening we loosed from Naxos, and sailing ouer a channell no lesse dange∣rous then the former, for the multitude of Ilands, vpon the three and twentie of De∣cember we passed close by the shoare of the Iland Zio, called Chios of old. It is inha∣bited * 9.7 by Greekes (as the other Ilands are) and is famous for the pleasantnesse and fer∣tiltie of the situation and soyle. It yeeldeth great store of Mastick, and the country peo∣ple keepe flocks of raine Partridges; as of Hens other where. They brag, that Homer lyes buried vpon the Mountaine Helias, and this Iland hath Saint George for their pro∣tecting Saint, and beares his Crosse in their Flags, as England doth. Here we might di∣stinctly see the shoare of Asia, in that part, where of old the seuen Churches stood not * 9.8 farre distant, to which Saint Iohn writes his Reuelation. And the Iland Pathmos is not farre distant, where Saint Iohn liued in exile. Towards the euening we cast anchor * 9.9

neere the Iland Metelene, which is seated (as Zio) in the Egean Sea, and is no lesse plea∣sant * 9.10 and fertile. Of old it was called Lesbos, then Issa, and after Pelasgia, and therein were borne, Pythagoras, the Poet Alceus, Antimenides, Theophrastus, Phanius, Arion, and Tersandrus, and the famous woman Poet Sapho, Zio is distant one hundred and forty miles from Naxos and Meteline, ninety miles from Zio.

The foure and twenty of December, (being Christmas euen, after the old stile vsed among the Greekes, and in all Turkey), early in the morning we weighed anchor, and with a faire but gentle wind, sayled close by the shoare where the City of Troy stood * 9.11 of old, seated in a plaine, and vpon pleasant hils neere the Sea, and at this day the ru∣ines of Illium the Castle of Priamus are seene vpon a hill, and the ruines of the wals in the plaine, yet shew the circuit of the City. The Poets said truly;

Hic seges est vbi Troia fuit, Corne growes now where Troy once stood.

Yet the plowed fields haue very many ruines of buildings. On the North side of these Troian ruines, a necke of Land lies towards the Sea, where they say the Greekes encamped, and left their fatall Troian Horse. Right ouer against this Land lies the I∣land Tenedos, scarce ten miles distant, in the Hauen whereof we cast anchor for an * 9.12 hower, vnder a little Castle, and this Tenedos is sixty miles distant from Metelene. From hence sailing some eighteene miles, we passed by two necks of Land, one of Greece on the West-side, the other of Asia the lesse, (now called Natolia) on the East-side, and af∣ter twelue miles saile, we entered the streight of Hellespont, now called the two Castles, * 9.13 the description whereof I will defer till my returne this way.

The Greek Marriners haue a custome here to demand a gift of all Merchants & pas∣sengers in their ship, for ioy of their happy voyage, and they say, (which I beleeue not) that if any refuse, they tie a rope to his feete, and draw him vp to the top of the maste, till he yeeld to this custome: but howsoeuer, we all obeyed this ridiculous custome, not to offend them who had vsed vs well.

This channell running from the blacke sea, called Euxinus, into Propontis, and so by Constantinople to these said two Castles, and from hence into the AEgean sea, from the North towards the South, is alwaies contrary to those that sayle from the meditera∣nian sea to Constantinople, especially after they enter this streight of the two Castles, and neere Constantinople it runnes with such force towards the South, as they that saile to the City, (whereof we had experience) with the best winds, yet sayle very slowly. This violence of the Channell is attributed to great Riuers violently falling into the blacke Sea.

The foresaid Christmas euen we landed at Gallipolis a Greeke City, seated in Thrace, * 9.14 hauing the name (as it seemes) from the French, and eight and twenty miles distant from the two Castles. On Saturday the fiue and twenty of December, being Christ∣mas day, after the old stile, we set saile; but the winds droue vs backe to the Hauen of Gallipolis, where being detained some few daies, though I staied in the ship for feare of some fraud from the Turkes, yet once I went on Land with our Marriners. The City lieth in length vpon the shoare of Propontis, from the South to the North, and it hath without the wals towards the West, great number of Wind-mils, the buildings are of slint or little vnpolished stones, one or two stories high, and the roofe is low and tiled, (not plaine and plastered to walke vpon, as they be in Syrea and Cyprus); and this roofe is so low as it hath no windowes, so as the buildings of these parts are very like those of Italy. The Hauen is on the East side, and vpon the opposite shoare of Asia towards the East, are the ruines not farre distant of Nice, a City of Bithinia, famous for the holy Councell held there of old. Vpon Saterday the first of Ianuary, we sailed sixty miles in this straight of Propontis, to the Iland Marmora, not without feare of Turkish Pirats, * 9.15 the Hauen of Camera being neere vs, where the great Turkes Gallies lie. By the way they shewed me a Castle towards the East, vpon the shore of Asia the lesse, which they say stands vpon the confines of the Troian Dominion, and thereof hath the name to this day. The Iland Marmora is so called (as I think) of themarble wherewith it aboun∣deth. The second of Ianuary we set sayle from Marmora, and being by contrary winds driuen backe (as I think, or little aduanced) we came to the Iland Aloni some ten miles * 9.16

distant from Marmora (and so called of the forme of a yard, in which Oxen vsed to grinde Corne, or beate it small.) After the beginning of the new yeere (which the Greekes, as most of Europe, begin the first of Ianuarie) the first Wednesday (being the * 9.17 fourth of that month), the Grecian Marriners haue a custom retained from old times, to baptize the Sea, (as they terme it), which done, they thinke the Flouds and Windes to grow more calme then formerly. The Iland Aloni hath a Port on all sides compas∣sed with Ilands, and that very large and safe, where while we passed some stormy daies, wee heard of many Barkes and Gallies cast away. While I walked here vpon the shoare, a wild-headed Turke tooke my hat from my head (being of the fashion of Eu∣rope not vsed there), and hauing turned it, and long beheld it, he said (to vse his rude words) Lend me this vessell to ease my belly therein; and so girning flung it'on the dyrtie ground, which I with patience tooke vp. These and like wrongs of speech, euen threatnings of blowes I sometimes indured in Turkey, but neuer had the disaster to haue any blow giuen me by any of them, which many good Christians notwithstan∣ding haue suffered and daily suffer, and my selfe if they had fallen to my share, must haue suffered with patience, except I would by resistance haue incurred shamefull and cruell death. On Thursday the thirteenth of Ianuary, at last wee set sayle with a faire winde, and after twentie miles sayling we passed by the Citie Palormo seated vpon the shoare of Asia the lesse, and famous for the white Wine it yeeldeth (the best that euer * 9.18 I tasted), and hauing sayled ten miles further, we sailed by the Citie Heraclea, seated on * 9.19 the shore of Greece (whereof in my returne this way I shall haue cause to speake more at large.)

Towards euening we thought we were come to one of the corners of Constantino∣ple, called the seuen Towers, yet by reason of the foresaid swift channell running from the black Sea full against vs, with a most faire wind we could not land in the Hauen of Constantinople till midnight, hauing that day sayled one hundred and twentie miles in all from the said Ile Aloni. This voyage was more tedious to vs, in that howsoeuer landing we had somtimes good dyet, yet while we were at Sea, we had no good victu∣als in the ship. For the Greeke Marriners feede of Onions, Garlike, and dried fishes, (one kinde whereof they call Palamides, and the Italians call Palamite) and in stead of a banket, they will giue you a head of Garlick rosted in the ashes, and pleasantly call it a pigeon. With this and Bisket they content themselues, and these we were forced to eate, hauing omitted to prouide any dried or salt meates at Candia, because wee hoped to find those in our Barke, and knowing that it was in vaine to prouide any fresh meates, because they would not suffer a fier to be made in so small a Barke, wherewith we might dresse them. But after we had eaten Bisket and dried fishes, we had an vn∣knowne comfort or helpe to disgest them. For in our priuat cabbin, we had the head of a tun of Muskedine lying vnder our heads when we slept, in stead of a bolster, and our ship being bound on the vpper part of the sides with bundles of Reedes, to beate off the force of the waues, we taking one of the long Reedes, found meanes to pierce the vessell, and get good Wine to our ill fare, and drunke so merrily, that before wee came to our iournies end, our former Reede became too short, so as we were faine to piece it with another.

Hauing cast anchor (as I said) in the Port of Constantinople, behold, as soone as day * 9.20 began to breake, many companies of Turkes rushing into our Barke, who like so ma∣ny starued flies fell to sucke the sweete Wines, each rascall among them beating with cudgels and ropes the best of our Marriners, if he durst but repine against it, till within short space the Candian Merchant hauing aduertised the Venetian Ambassadour of their arriuall, he sent a lanizare to protect the Barke, and the goods; and assoone as he came, it seemed to me no lesse strange, that this one man should beate all those Turkes, and driue them out of the Barke like so many dogs, the common Turkes daring no more resist a souldier, or especially a Ianizare, then Christians dare resist them. And the Seriant of the Magistrate hauing taken some of our Greeke Marriners (though subiect to the State of Venice) to worke for their Ottoman in gathering stones, and like base im∣ployments, this Ianizary caused them presently to be released, and to be sent againe in∣to their Barke, such is the tyranny of the Turkes against all Christians aswel their sub∣iects

as others, so as no man sayleth into these parts, but vnder the Banner of England, France, or Venice, who being in league with the great Turke, haue their Ambassadours in this Citie, and their Consuls in other Hauens, to protect those that come vnder their Banner, in this sort sending them a Ianizare to keepe them from wrongs, so soone as they are aduertised of their arriuall.

My selfe lodged in the house of Master Edward Barton, the English Ambassadour, who gaue me a Ianizare to guide and protect me, while I went to view the City, round about the whole circuit whereof I went on foot and by boat in foure houres space, the forme of the Citie being triangular, and containing nine miles by Sea towards the North and East, and fiue miles by land towards the West. I professe my selfe to haue small skill in the art of Geography, yet will I aduenture (though rudely) to set downe the forme and situation of this City, so plainely, as I doubt not but the Reader may easily vnderstand it, howsoeuer in the same (as in other cities formerly described) I ac∣knowledge that I vse not the rule of the scale, in the distance of places, nor other exqui∣site rules of that Art, hauing no other end, but to make the Reader more easily vnder∣stand my description.

[illustration]

The description of the City of Constantinople, and the adiacent Territories and Seas.

The great lines or walles shew the forme of the City, and the single small lines de∣scribe the Teritory adioyning. (A) In this Tower they hang out a light of pitch and like burning matter, to direct the Saylers by night, comming to the City, or sayling along the coast out of the Sea Euxinus (which they say is called the Black Sea of many

shipwracks therein happening.) And this Tower is sixteene miles distant from the Citie.

(B) Here is a marble pillar erected vpon a Rocke compassed with the sea, which they call the pillar of Pompey, and therein many passengers (for their memory) vse to ingraue their names. And here are innumerable flocks of Sea foule and of many kindes, wherewith hee that is skilfull to shoote in his Peece, may abundantly furnish himselfe.

(C) Here is the Euxine or black Sea.

(D E) Here lie two strong Castles, one in Europe, the other in Asia, some eight miles distant from the Citie, built to defend the Hauen from the assault of the enemies by Sea on that side, and the Garrison there kept, searcheth the ships comming from the Citie, that no slaues or prohibited goods be carried therein, neither can any ship passe vnsearched, except they will hazard to be sunck. Finally, the great Turke sends his chiefe prisoners to be kept in these strong Castles.

(F) Here great ships vse to cast anchor at their first arriuall, till they bee vnloaded, and here againe they ride at anchor to expect windes, when they are loaded and ready to depart.

(G) All along this banke and the opposite side for a large circuit, the greatest ships vse to lie when they are vnloaded, and they lie most safely and close by the shore, fasta∣ned by cables on land.

(H) Here lyes the old Citie built by the Genoesi of Italy, called Gallata by the Turks, and Perah by the Greekes (of the situation beyond the Channell) It is now accoun∣ted a Suburbe of Constantinople, and is seated vpon a most pleasant hill, wherein for the most part liue Christians, aswell subiects as others, and the Ambassadours of England, France, and Venice, only the Emperours Ambassadour must lye within the Citie, more like a pledge of peace, then a free Ambassadour, and very few Turkes liue here min∣gled with the Christians. The situation of Gallata (as I said) is most pleasant. For∣merly the Ambassadours of England were wont to dwell vpon the Sea-shore in the Plaine, and their Pallace is not farre distant from this note (K): but Master Edward Barton the English Ambassadour at this time dwelt vpon the top of the hill, in a faire house within a large field, and pleasant gardens compassed with a wall. And all Galla∣ta is full of very pleasant gardens, and compassed with pleasant fields, whereof some towards the land furthest from the Sea, are vsed for the buriall of Turkes.

(I) Here a little Creeke of the Sea is compassed with walles and buildings, within which the Gallies of the great Turke lie in safety, and there be fit places to build Gal∣lies, and store-houses for all things thereunto belonging.

(K) Here is the chiefe passage ouer the water called Tapano, where a man may passe for two aspers. All along this Sea banke lye very many great Gunnes (as vpon the Tower Wharfe at London), and here the fishers land, and sell their fish.

(L) Here the Megarenses of old built Chalcedon, a Citie of Bethinia, famous for a Councell held there, by the ruine of which Citie, Constantinople increased. At this day there is onely a Village, or rather some scattered houses, and it is commonly called Scuteri, or Scudretta.

(M) Here the Great Turks mother then liuing, had her priuate Garden.

(N) Hither the Heyre of the Empire is sent, as it were into banishment, vnder pre∣tence to gouerne the Prouince Bursia, assoone as he is circumcised, and so being made a Musulman (that is, a circumcised Turke) first begins to draw the eyes of the Army and Ianizares towards him.

(O) Here is the Pallace or Court of the great Turke, called by the Italians Seraglio, and vulgarly Saray, and it was of old the Monastery of Saint Sophia. Mahomet the se∣cond first compassed it with walls, and the buildings together with the large and plea∣sant gardens are some three or foure miles in circuit. I entered the outward Court thereof by a stately Gate kept by many Ianizares called Capigi of that office. The court yard was large, all compassed with building of free stone two stories high, with a low and almost plaine roofe tyled, and without windowes, after the maner of the building

of Italy, and round about the inside, it was cast out with arches like the building of Cloisters, vnder which they walked drie in the greatest raine. And in this Court is a large pulpit or open roome, where the great Turke vieth to shew himselfe to the Iani∣zares to satisfie them when they make any mutiny.

(P) Here is a banqueting house, vulgarly called Chuske, the prospect whereof is more pleasant then can be expressed, beholding foure Seaes at once, and the land on all sides beyond them.

(Q) Here is the Church of Saint Sophia, opposite to the Court Gate, of old built by the Christians after the forme of Salomons Temple, and indowed with the an∣nuall rent of three hundred thousand Zechines, now made a Mosche or Mahometan Church. And howsoeuer the Turks cannot indure that vnwashed Christians (so cal∣led by them, because they vse not Baths so continually as they doe) should enter their Mosches, or passe ouer their Sepulchers, yet my self entered this Church with the Ia∣nizare my guid, trusting to his power to defend me, yet he willed me first to put of my shooes, and according to the Turkes custome to leaue them in the porch, where they were late till we returned. The Church is of a round forme, and built of bricke, and supported with faire pillars, and paued with Marble (ouer which the Turks layed Mats to kneele, and prostrate themselues more commodiously vpon them.) The roofe is beautified with pictures of that rich painting, which the Italians call alla Mosaica, shining like enameled work, which now by antiquity were much decaied, and in some parts defaced. Round about the Church hung many Lampes, which they vse to burrie in the time of their Lent (called Beyram), and euery weeke vpon Thursday in the eue∣ning, and Friday all day, which they keepe holy after their fashion for their Sabbath day. Round about the vpper part of the Church are large and most faire Galleries. And here I did see two Nuts of Marble of huge bignesse and great beauty. Moreouer I did see the great Turke when he entered this Church, and howsoeuer it lie close to the Gate of his Pallace, yet he came riding vpon a horse richly trapped, with many troopes of his chiefe horsemen, standing in ranke within the Courts of his Pallace, and from the Court Gate to the Church dore, betweene which troopes on both sides, he passed as betweene walles of brasse, with great pompe. And when a Chaus (or Pen∣sioner) being on horseback did see mee close by the Emperours side, hee rushed vpon me to strike me with his mace, saying, What doth this Christian dog so neere the per∣son of our great Lord? But the Ianizare, whom our Ambassadour had giuen me for a Guide and Protector, repelled him from doing mee any wrong, and many Ianizares (according to their manner) comming to helpe him, the Chaus was glad to let mee alone, and they bade me be bold to stand still, though I were the second or third per∣son from the Emperour. Neere this Church is the stately Sepulcher of Selymus the second, and another Sepulcher no lesse stately, and newly built for Amurath lately de∣ceased, where he lay with those male children round about him, who according to the manner were strangled by his Successour after hee was dead. Not farre thence is the Market place hauing some one hundred marble pillars about it, and adorned with a Pyramis or pinacle, erected vpon foure Globes, and with a pleasant Fountaine of wa∣ter, together with other ornaments left (as it seemes) by Christian Emperours.

(R) The wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman, numbred among the mi∣racles of the World.

(S) Two houses for the same vse, as the Exchange of London, where the Merchants meete, namely, for the selling of fine wares, but no way to be compared to the same for the building. They are called the great and the lesse Bezestan, and vse to bee ope∣ned onely certaine daies of the weeke, and for some sixe howers, at which times small and more pretious wares are there to be sold, as Iewels, Semiters (or Swords), set with Iewels, but commonly counterfet, pieces of Veluet, Satten, and Damaske, and the like. And the Market place is not farre distant, where Captiues of both sexes are weekely sold, and the buyers if they will, may take them into a house, and there see them naked, and handle them (as wee handle beasts to know their fatnesse and strength.)

(T) Here is a Fort that is fortified with seuen Towers, called by the Turkes Iadi∣cule, and by Christians the seuen Towers, where a garrison of Souldiers is kept, be∣cause the Emperors treasure is there laied vp, and cheefe Prisoners vse to be kept there. The treasure is vulgarly said to bee laied vp there, but the great Turke seldome goes thither; and since it is true, that where the treasure is, there is the mind, I thinke it pro∣bable (which I haue heard of experienced men) that most of the treasure lies in the Se∣raglio, where the great Turke holds his Courr.

(V) Here be the ruines of a Pallace vpon the very wals of the City, called the Pal∣lace of Constantine, wherein I did see an Elephant, called Philo by the Turkes, and ano∣ther beast newly brought out of Affricke, (the Mother of Monsters) which beast is al∣together vnknowne in our parts, and is called Surnapa by the people of Asia, Astanapa by others, and Giraffa by the Italians, the picture whereof I remember to haue seene in the Mappes of Mercator; and because the beast is very rare, I will describe his forme as well as I can. His haire is red coloured, with many blacke and white spots; I could scarce reach with the points of my fingers to the hinder part of his backe, which grew higher and higher towards his foreshoulder, and his necke was thinne and some three els long, so as hee easily turned his head in a moment to any part or corner of the roome wherein he stood, putting it ouer the beames thereof, being built like a Barne, and high (for the Turkish building, not vnlike the building of Italy, both which I haue formerly described) by reason whereof he many times put his nose in my necke, when I thought my selfe furthest distant from him, which familiarity of his I liked not; and howsoeuer the Keepers assured me he would not hurt me, yet I auoided these his fa∣miliar kisses as much as I could. His body was slender, not greater, but much higher then the body of a stagge or Hart, and his head and face was like to that of a stagge, but the head was lesse and the face more beautifull: He had two hornes, but short and scarce halfe a foote long; and in the forehead he had two bunches of flesh, his eares and feete like an Oxe, and his legges like a stagge. The Ianizare my guide did in my names and for me giue twenty Aspers to the Keeper of this Beast.

(W X) Here be two Castles or Forts, diuided by the Hollespont, one seated in 〈◊〉〈◊〉, the other in Asia, whereof I made mention in my sayling to Constantinople, and of which I shall speake more largely at my going from this City.

Constantinople built (sixe hundred sixty three yeeres before Christ was borne), by 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a Lacedemonian, was first called Bizantiam, till Constantine the Great in the yeere of the Lord 315, did rebuild it, after it had beene destroied by the Emperour 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and called it by his name. The Turkes vnder Mahimet the second, first tooke this City, in the yeere 1453, from the Christians, with destruction of great multitudes of them, and at this day it is called (of the great circuit) Stimbals by the Graecians, and Stambalda by the Turkes. It is seated in Thrace (also called Romania) and is built in forme of a Triangle, whereof two sides towards the North and East, lie vpon two seas, and the third side towards the West, lies vpon the continent of Greece. For many cau∣ses this City is famous, and in two respects may be iustly preferred to any other in the World knowne to vs, namely for the pleasantnesse of the situation, and the largenesse and safety of the Hauen. The forme thereof formerly set downe, doth in part shew the pleasantnes of the situation, but the fruitfulnesse of the fields, the sweetnes and beauty of the flowers, and the variety and goodnesse of the fruits cannot sufficiently be praised. The fishes in the winter season flying from the cold of the Euxine or black Sea, falldowne in great numbers into the Sea Propontis, passing close by the wals of the City, and againe in Summer time, not induring the heat of the Mediterianean sea, returne backe in like numbers the same way. This City hath a thousand pleasant creekes of the Sea within sight. To conclude, the Countrey is no lesse pleasant then the Inhabitants are wicked.

The Hauen will receiue an huge number of shippes, and vpon both the bankes of the City and Gallata, shippes of 300, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 or greater once vnloaded, may so lie with their cables fastened on the Land, as they 〈◊〉〈◊〉 from the shippes to Land without 〈◊◊〉〈◊◊〉 and for the excellency of the Port, the City itselfe is called the Port by the

Turkes, and Ouid cals it the Port of two Seas, for the two channels of Propontis, and the Euxine Sea. Of old the City had eleuen gates called, Aurea, Pargea, Romana, Cartha∣sez, Regia, Caligaria, Kilma, Harmagona, Phara, Theodosia, and Spilica. At this day the slender wall of bricke towards the Sea, hath thirteene gates not worth the naming. The wall towards the Land is of bricke, and is said to haue beene much ruined in the yeere 1509, by an Earth-quake; yet still on that side are three wals which are broad enough for a cart to passe, of which the outmost towards land is little higher then the foundation of the second, nor that much higher then the foundation of the third, the fields on that side being plaine, yet in like sort rising higher and higher as they be nee∣rer to the wals of the City, saue that neere the foresaid Pallace of Constantine, some hils lie without the wals.

This City (as Rome) is said to containe seuen Hils or mounts within the wals, wher∣of some to me seemed imaginary, but I will reckon them as they doe, and first beginne with the hill, vpon which stand the ruines of Constantines Pallace. The second hath the stately Mosche (or Turkish Church) built vpon the Pallace, which of old belon∣ged to the Graecian Patriarke. Vpon the third stands the stately Mosche and most rich∣ly built Sepulcher of Mahomet the second; with an Hospitall built by the same Empe∣rour, where all Turkish Pilgrimes haue their lodging and diet freely for three daies, and it hath one hundred and fifty chambers built for the poore of the City, and the yeerely rents thereof are valued at two hundred thousand zechines, yea the Court or Seraglio of the Great Turke paies each day an hundred Aspers to this Hospitall. The Sepulcher of Selimus takes vp the fourth hill, and the sepulcher of Baiazet, the fifth hill. Betweene the fifth and the sixth hill, is the old Pallace of the Great Turke, (which the Italiatis call Seraglio vecehio), where the Concubines of the deceased Emperour, and the present Emperours sisters and a great number of his concubinet, (for the fai∣rest and dearest to him are taken to liue in his Court), are kept by Ennuches within this old Seraglio, which is of great circuit, containing many houses and gardens com∣passed within one wall. Vpon the sixth hill stands the foresaid wonderfull Mosche and Sepulcher of Solyman, noted with the letter (R). Lastly, the seuenth hill containes the chiefe Pallace of the Great Turke, and the Church Saint Sophia, now made a Mos∣che noted with the Letters O. Q.

The tops of the Sepulchers and Mosches, being of a round forme and couered with brasse, and the spacious gardens of Cypresse and Firre trees, make shew of more beau∣ty and magnificence to the beholder from any high place, or without the wals, then in deed the City hath. The Sepulchers are no doubt very stately built, hauing vpon the top one two or more round globes couered with leade or brasse. On the inside they seeme like lightsome Chappels with many windowes, and they being built in a round forme, the dead Emperour is laied in the middest or center of the Sepulcher, in a chest or coffin raised some three foot from the ground, hauing the Tulbent which hee wore vpon his head in his life time laied vpon his Tombe, being see forth with the Iewels he most esteemed, (which Tulbent is made of some twenty or more yards of pure and fine white linnen, foulded in many foulds, in the forme of a halfe globe). Next the Emperour lies the Sultana or Empresse, in her Coffin, (so they call his Con∣cubine, Mother of his Heire and Successour), prouided alwaies that shee haue had a letter of dowry by which shee is made his wife; for otherwise shee is not buried with him. And round about the Emperour and Empresse in Coffins lower then theirs, lie the bodies of his male children, which (according to their manner) are strangled by his Successour assoone as he was dead, and vpon their Coffins likewise their Tulbents are laied seuerally. These children are laied in little Coffins of Cypresle: and this mid∣dle part wherein the dead bodies lie, is compassed with a grace, so as betweene the bo∣dies and the windowes there is a gallery round about, which is spred with Turkey carpets, and vpon them the Priests that keepe the Sepulcher, doe lie by night, and sit crosse legged by day, neither is the roome at any time without some of these Keepers, so as the Emperours are attended euen after death.

The buildings of the City haue no magnificence, being partly of a matter like

bricke, but white, and (as it seemes) vnhardned by fire, partly of timber and clay, ex∣cepting some few pallaces which are of free stone, but nothing so stately built as might be expected from the pride and riches of the great Turkes chiefe seruants. And these houses (as those of the adiacent territories of Europe) are built only 2 stories high, with a low roofe without any windowes, after the manner of Italy, whereas the houses of Asia haue a plaine and plaistered roofe to walke vpon, especially in Asia the greater. The streetes of this Citie ar narrow, and shadowed with pentises of wood, and vpon both sides the way is raised some foot high, but of little breadth, and paued for men and women to passe, the middest of the street being left low and vnpaued, and no broader, then for the passage of Asses or beasts loaded. In many places of the streetes lye carcases, yea sometimes the bodies of dead men, euen till they be putrified, and I thinke this vncleanlinesse of the Turks (who otherwise place Religion in washing their bodies, and keeping their apparrell, especially their Tulbent pure and cleane) is the chiefe cause that this Citie, though most pleasantly seated, yet aboue all the Cities of the world is continually more or lesse infected with the plague. They say, that Iob, famous for his pietie and patience, is buried in this Citie: but I did not see his mo∣nument, and thinke it probable, that the same and all like Christian monuments, were defaced by the Turkes when they tooke the Citie.

The worthie English Ambassadour, Master Edward Barton most curteously enter∣tained me with lodging and dyet so long as I staied in this Citie, so as for them I spent not one Asper: but I passe ouer the due praises which I owe to the memory of this worthy Gentleman, being hereafter to speake more of him, I will onely adde, that I attended him once to the great Turkes Court, and when I had nothing satisfied my curiositie in viewing the Citie by occasions casually happening, that hee commaun∣ded a Ianizare to guide mee round about the same, till I had taken full view thereof. And with this guide the first day I viewed the foresaid monuments within the walles, and the second day compassed the Citie without the walles, beginning at the passage ouer the water called Tapano, and noted with the letter (K), and so passing by water (in a boat, vulgarly called Pyrame, and hired for fortie aspers) to the Castle of the seuen Towers, noted with the letter (T), then passing by land to the Pallace of Constantine, noted with the letter (V.)

And by the way as we passed by land, an old woman meeting vs, and taking me for a Captine to be sold, demaunded my price of the Ianizare; who for mirth entertained her offer to buy me and another Gentleman, seruant to the Ambassadour, whom hee had sent to beare me company: but because I was very slender and leane after my long sicknes, he could not induce her to giue more then one hundred aspers for me, though she offered foure hundred aspers for the other Gentleman in my company, as the Ia∣nizare told me in the Italian tongue, when he had intertained this discourse with her to passe away the time in our long walke. From the foresaid Pallace of Constantine we hired a boat for eight aspers, and so by water returned to the passage Tapano, from whence we set forth, hauing gone by land and water the full circuit of the Citie, being nine miles by water, and fiue by land. Thence wee returned to the Ambassadours house, where I gaue the Ianizare my guide fifty aspers for his paines.

A Venetian ship called the great Lion was now ready to set sayle from Constantino∣ple to Venice, which commoditie of my speedy returne I thought good to take, and ha∣uing agreed with the Patron or Master of the ship, and being promised by the chiefe of the Marriners (whom I had bound vnto me with some curtisies) that they would without faile call me before they were to set sayle, I passed the time in the sweete con∣uersation of this worthy Ambassadour, more securely then I should haue done, til one euening I heard a great piece of Ordinance discharged, and thereupon suspected (as indeede it fell out) that this ship ready to set sayle, gaue this warning piece to call aboard the Marriners and passengers. And so I made all the haste I could to the water side; but when I came thither, saw that my labour was in vaine, the ship being vnder sayle, and gone out of the Hauen. My selfe, my seruant, and a Gen∣tleman, the Ambassadours seruant, and sent by him into England with letters to the

Queene from the great Turke, being thus left behind, presently tooke one of the Am∣bassadours Ianizares for our Guide, and vpon the last day of Februarie (in the end of the yeere 1596 according to the English computation, or in the beginning of the yeere 1597, according to the computation of most Kingdomes, beginning the yeere * 9.21 the first of Ianuary) hired a boat (called Pyrame) for one thousand Aspers to Gallipoli, in hope to ouertake the great ship sayling slowly, before it could passe the straight of Hellespont. And the same euening in which the great ship set sayle, wee in our little boat sayled by the shoare of Thrace fortie miles to Selebris, a towne of Thrace, not without great feare and farre greater danger of being cast away. For when we found * 9.22 the little boate vnfit to passe the great waues of the Sea (though much calmer then o∣ther Seas), and therefore willed our Marriner to sayle close by the shoare, he told vs, that there was greater danger from theeues vpon the shoare, then from the waues of the sea, and so easily perswaded vs to imitate the Prophet Dauid, committing our selues rather to the hands of God by sayling in the deepe, then into the hands of men by coasting the shoare. When we had passed the darke night without sleepe in this obscure harbor, the next morning early being Tuesday, and the first of March, we say∣led twenty miles to Erylis, seated vpon the same shore of Thracia, not without extreme * 9.23 danger of being cast away, which we often and iustly feared, and our Ianizare no lesse, who either for feare, or repentance of his sins, shed abundance of teares. Erylis was of old called Heraclea, famously knowne by hauing been the seat of the Greeke Patriark and many Christian Emperours. Here we left the boat which we had hired at Con∣stantinople, hauing found it vnfit for this passage: but howsoeuer wee had hired it to Gallipoli, yet the Marriner would remit nothing of the couenanted price. From hence to Gallipoli we hired for eight hundred aspers a greater Barke called Cayke. The second of March, notwithstanding the rage of the windes and the waues, we set saile, and lan∣ded at the Iland Marmora after fiftie miles sayle, in which Iland I had formerly been, * 9.24 and to the mention thereof formerly made, let me now adde, that it is inhabited only with Greeks, and these Greek; fearing lest our Ianizare (after their maner) would pay them nothing for our necessaries, and he being a yong vnexperienced man, and so not carrying himself with such authoritie as other Ianizares doe, we could not get lodging nor diet in any house, til at last our selues promising to pay honestly for al we took, we were receiued into a house (where as we were wont) we slept vpon our owne bedding, they hauing no conuenient beds, and we paied for two Egges one asper; for a Capo∣net fiue and twentie aspers; for our fier fiue and twentie aspers; and for the vse of the house fiue and twentie aspers; as likewise in other places where we landed, wee paied commonly sixteene aspers or there-abouts, each night for our lodging, and the vse of the house. The third of March wee set sayle after midnight, and hauing sayled sixtie * 9.25 miles, came before breake of day to Gallipolis, and the same day hiring a boat with two Oares for two hundred aspers, we passed eight and twentie miles, and found the great ship of Venice at anchor, but not daring to goe aboard in the night, wee slept in our little boat fastened to the shoare, with no little inconuenience, because it rained all night. The fourth of March we gaue the Ianizare our guide three hundred twentie eight aspers for his paines, and to beare his charges back, which was a small sum for so great a iourney: Yet after some repining he was satisfied therewith, because he serued the English Ambassadour. Then we went aboard the Venetian ship, called the great Lion, and when I remembred, that the ship wherein I sailed from Venice to Ierusalem was called the little Lion, I was stirred vp to giue praise and humble thankes to the great Lion of the Tribe of Iuda, who through so many dangers preserued mee in this voyage. This Venetian ship was forced heere to expect the pleasure of the Turkish Searchers and Customers, namely, at the two Castles vpon the entrie of the Straight * 9.26 of Hellespont, wherof I made mention in my sayling from Candia to Constantinople, and in the description of that Citie haue noted them with the letters (W) and (X). For the ships that come from Constantinople, vse to bee detained here some three daies, to the end that in case they carry away priuate mens slaues, the Masters may haue time to follow after them; and in like case if they carrie away any prisoners or offenders,

the publike Magistrates may haue meanes to bring them backe. Besides, these search∣ers and Customers looke, that they carry no prohibited wares, neither can the ship, nor any passenger be suffered to passe these Castles, except they bring the Pasport of the great Turke, which the chiefe Visere or Basha vseth to grant vnto them. Thus when no ship without the knowledge of the chiefe Visere can either passe these Castles leading to the Mediteranean Sea, or the two Castles aboue leading into the Euxine Sea, noted with (D E), surely these foure Castles are the greatest strength of Constantino∣ple by Sea.

I said, that these Castles, where we found the Venetian ship, are in the description of Constantinople noted with the letters (W) and (X), and they are now commonly cal∣led the Castles of Gallipolis: but of old that noted with the letter (W) was called Sestos, being a Citie in Thrace, in which the most faire Hero was borne and dwelt; and the other noted with the letter (X) was called Abydos, being a Citie of Asia the lesse, in which Leander dwelt, famous for his loue to Hero, and these Castles are diuided by the Hellespont some two miles broad, at least so narrow, as Leander is said often to haue swomme ouer it to his beloued Hero. The Castle of Sestos more specially is seated in a most fertile soyle; for Nairo, the next adioyning towne, yeeldes excellent Wines and all necessaries to sustaine life plentifully. Howsoeuer the ships ought, and vse to bee staied here for three daies, yet a very faire winde blowing, and all duties being perfor∣med, the Patrons of the ships by a large gift to the Officers, sometimes obtaine leaue to depart sooner. They say, that each passenger by Pole payeth here one zechine for tribute: but perhaps this belongs onely to Merchants, for my selfe, my seruant, and the English Gentleman in my company, hauing giuen betweene vs one zechine to the substitutes of the Venetian Bailiffe (so their Ambassador is called), we were dismissed vpon their motion, yet we moreouer gaue fortie aspers to a Ianizare, and fiftie aspers to a Chiauslar for the fees of their offices.

It being vnwholsome to sleep aboue the hatches of the ship at this time of the yeere (though in summer time I made choice to sleepe so, when I sailed from Venice to Ieru∣salem), we three, namely, my selfe, the English Gentleman and my seruant, gaue for each of vs three zechines to the Pilot to be partners with him in his cabin, which by his Office hee had proper to himselfe in the Castle of the ship; and to the Patron or Ma∣ster of the ship for our diet, we paid each of vs after the rate of fiue zechines and a halfe by the moneth, as well at Sea, as in Harbors; and for our passage we ioyntly paid ten ducats of Venice, (so as I still paid two parts of three in all expences); besides that, wee brought with vs some hundreds of Egges, and a vessell of excellent Wine of Palormo, which our Ambassadour at Constantinople gaue vs.

Vpon Monday the seuenth of March (after the old stile vsed in Turky by all Chri∣stians and others) in the afternoone we set sayle, and passed the straight of Hellespont, and the same night sayled by the foresaid Iland of Tenedos. This Sea is called Pontus of the adiacent Prouince of Asia the lesse, named Pontus, which Prouince containes * 9.27 Colchis (famous by the old Argonauticall expedition), Capidocia, and Armenia. The eight of March, early in the morning, we did see tha Iland Lemnos (famous for a kind * 9.28 of earth there digged, and in Latin called Terra Sigillata) vpon our right hand, and the * 9.29 Ilands Metelene, and Chios (now called Zio), and the Citie Smyrna (vpon the continent of Asia the lesse) vpon our left hand, (to omit Ephesus, not farre distant vpon the same continent.) And being now entred into the AEgean Sea (now called Archipelagus of fiftie Ilands standing like Arches, and not farre distant one from the other, which are called Cyclades, or Sporades), the ninth of March, hauing now sailed eightie miles, and being to sayle by the Iland Saint George of Skyra, the windes were so contrary, as wee were forced to strike sayles, and lie at hull (that is, tossed to an fro by the waues.) The * 9.30 same day we set sayle, and left the Iland Andros (one of the Cyclades) and the Iland Tyno (subiect to the Venetians) on our left hand, or towards the East, and the Iland Ne∣gropont (lying close to the continent of Attica, and right ouer against the ruines of fa∣mous * 9.31 Athens) on our right hand, or towards the West. The tenth and eleuenth of March, wee sayled 100 miles in the same Sea full of Ilands, and sailed by the Ilands

Gia and Makarone. But towards night contrary windes rising high, and we fearing to bee cast vpon some shoare of many adiacent Ilands, againe we struck sayle and lay at hull, tossing to and fro, but making small or no progresse. The twelfth of March, ear∣ly in the morning, we set sayle, and sayled by the Iland Milo (of old called Miletum), where Saint Paul landed, Acts 20. 15), and a neere Iland Sdiles (of old called Delos, and most famous for the Oracle of Apollo), and the Promontory of Morea (of old * 9.32 called Peloponesus, containing many Prouinces of Greece), which promontory is cal∣led Capo Malleo. The thirteenth of March, hauing sayled one hundred and ninety miles, we passed by the Iland Cerigo, not subiect to the Turkes (as most of the Ilands are), but to the Venetians, who in a Castle on the South side keepe a Garrison of souldiers. It is one of the Cyclades, seated at the entrance of the Ar∣chipelagus towards the South, scarce fiue miles distant from Morea (the foresaid continent of Greece) and some one hundred and fiftie miles from Candia, the chiefe Citie of the Iland Candia, and was of old called Scotera, also Porphoris, of that precious kind of Marble there digged, and also Citherea, of which as her chiefe * 9.33 seate Venus is often so called. And to this day there are seene the ruines of a Temple dedicated to Venus, and of a Pallace belonging to Menelaus the husband of Helena. From the thirteenth to the seuenteenth of March, the windes were so contrary or scant, as wee onely sayled one hundred and twenty miles, and tooke harbour in the Iland Zante, subiect to the Venetians (whereof I made mention in my voyage from Venice to Ierusalem.) Here some English Merchants continually reside, and the Ha∣uen * 9.34 being commodious, and most ships that trade in these Seaes vsing to put into this Harbor, the goods that are diuersly transported thence, are vulgarly, but falsely, estee∣med the natiue commodities of the Iland. It hath scarce sixtie miles in circuit, and the Mountaines round about vpon the Sea-side, inclose a pleasant and fruitfull Plaine. The Hauen is like an halfe Moone increasing, and the chiefe Towne called Zante, lies in a little Plaine vpon the innermost part thereof in length. The buildings of the houses are two stories high, with a tyled, but low roofe without any windowes (accor∣ding to the building of Italy) but are poore and base for the matter, so as the onely beautie of the Towne lies in the Castle built at the East end vpon a high Hill, being of a large circuit, and containing many houses and Churches within the walles there∣of. In which Castle the Gouernour (called il Podestà) and the other Venetian inferi∣our Magistrates dwell, and giue Law to the people of that Iland.

The Turkish Pirats of Saint Mauro in Morea, hauing lately set vpon and taken a huge Venetian ship, did lade seuenteene of their little barques with the most pretious goods thereof, namely, clothes of Gold, Damasks and Grogerans, to the value of a thousand thousand zechines (as the report went), and setting the ship on fire, tooke away the marriners for slaues. And the very time of my being in this Iland, seuen Turkish Gallies lay vpon this coast, and robbed all the Venetian ships falling into their hands, so as howsoeuer they had peace then with the Turkish Ottoman, yet their ships durst not stirre out of this hauen. Whereupon they hauing now occasion to send out ships for Corne, the Magistrate forced the Master of an English ship then harbouring there, to wast these ships, though much against his will, when there were some 20 Venetian ships in the same Hauen, whereof diuers were of 400 or 500 tuns. Also at this time it hapned, that a Spanish ship of Catolonia was driuen into this Har∣bor, and the Magistrate calling our Merchants before him, would haue forced them to giue caution, that the English ships then lying there, should not assaile the same, though betweene England & Spaine war had now long time bin proclaimed: but they contesting against this course as iniurious to them, yet could not be dismissed, till they gaue their words, that our ships should not assayle the same by day or night, so long as it lay in this Hauen. And this Spanish ship for long time not daring to goe forth, at last vpon occasion of Venetian Gallies landing there, was wafted by them, and so escaped. Vpon the robbing and burning of the foresaid Venetian ship by Turkish Pyrates, the Venetian Baliffe, (so they call their Ambassadour) lying then at Constanti∣nople, had obtained the great Turkes Mandate, that these Pyrates gallies being burnt,

they should presently be sent in bonds to his Court, and this Mandate was brought by a Chiauss, (or Pencioner) who came in the same ship with vs, whereupon the Py∣rates being more inraged against the Venetians, did at this time take and spoyle ano∣ther Venetian ship of some foure hundred and fifty Tunnes, called the Syluester, and not content with the most rich booty, did cast into the Sea many Marriners yeelding to mercy, and could hardly be perswaded by the intercession of Turkes passengers in the same ship, to spare the liues of some twenty chiefe Marriners yet aliue, and to for∣beare the burning of the ship. The Italians of best iudgement, did not expect that the great Turke would duly punish these outrages, but rather were of opinion that him∣selfe and his chiefe Visere would draw the greatest part of the prey to their own hands, and that the Turkish Gouernours inticed by like participation, would endeuour to free these Pyrates, and doe their best to nourish them, yea, that this very Chiauss now sent with a Mandate to suppresse them, would be induced by bribes, to returne to Constantinople, with relation that the Pyrates could not be found, so they did (as no doubt they would) for a time hide themselues, and in conclusion, that the Venetians after hauing spent much money in obtaining new Mandates for their apprehension, should find no other remedy, but to repell force by force.

Vpon Wednesday the thirtieth of March, (after the old stile) in the beginning of * 9.35 the yeere 1597, we set sayle, but by contrarietie of winds, were againe driuen backe in∣to the Hauen of Zante. Vpon Friday the first of Aprill after dinner, againe we set saile, and the second of Aprill sayling by the Iland Cefalonia, (whereof I spake in our voy∣age * 9.36 from Venice to Ierusalem), we cast anchor in the outward Hauen of the Iland Cor∣fu, because the Master of our ship was sicke, and this his sickenesse increasing, we set saile to returne backe to the chiefe City of that Iland, the Hauen whereof we entered the sixth of Aprill. From Zante to Cefaloniae are seuenty miles, and from thence to Corfu are 120 miles.

This Iland Corfu inhabited by Greekes is very fertile, yeelding plenty of fruites, corne, wines, and Currands, and this Hauen is fortified with two Forts cut out off a Rocke, namely, the old and the new Fort, (which is more then a mile in circuit), both being very strong and held vnexpugnable, so as this Iland is worthily reputed one of the chiefe Keyes of Christendome. The Master of our ship hauing recouered his health, wee set saile vpon Tuesday the twelfth of Aprill, and returned againe to the foresaid outward Hauen of Corfu Iland, where an old woman a passenger died, and her kinsemen carried her body to be buried on Land. Here againe we were forced to stay; the winds being contrary.

Atlast vpon the nineteenth of Aprill towards euening, with a faire wind we ioy∣fully set saile, and the twentieth day we sailed ouer the streight Sea, betweene Greece and the Prouince of Apulia in Italy. Vpon Friday the two and twentieth of Aprill to∣wards the euening, hauing sayled some two hundred miles from the said streight, we were carried by the shoare of the City Raguza, with a faire gale of wind, and had the * 9.37 wind beene neuer so contrary, yet our Master knowing some late difference risen be∣tweene the Raguzeans and Venetians, would not willingly haue landed in that Ha∣uen. The blame of which difference some imputed to the Raguzeans, in that they fa∣uoured the Scocchi, a Neighbour people vpon the shoare of Sclauonia, who being sub∣iect to the Emperour and Christians, yet robbed all kinds of ships passing these Seas, and had lately spoiled and burnt a Venetian Gally in the Port of Rouinge. But other alleaged a more probable cause thereof, namely, that some Venetian Gentlemen for some venerious in solencies there committed, had Iately beene slaine in a tumult. Ragu∣ze of old called Epidaurus, and the chiefe City of Selauonia, is foure hundred miles di∣stant from Venice, built at the foot of an high mountaine, vpon the Sea shoare, and hath great trafficke by those Seas, and huge ships, which the Kings of Spatne haue of∣ten hired, and ioined to their Nauy. The gouernement is popular, and this City to the wonder of many, doth to this day maintaine the liberty, though it be seated be∣tweene the very iawes of the two powerfull States of the great Turke and Venetians, to one of which all other neere Townes Ilands and Countries are subiect. For the Ve∣netians

are loath to driue them being Christians to such despaire, as they might be for∣ced to yeeld themselues to the great Turke, and the City is very strongly fortified to∣wards the sea, whence the Venetians can onely assaile them: besides, that they pay great customes of their trafficke to the State of Venice, for which reason that State at∣tempts nothing against the freedome of the City. Againe, the Turkes knowing that if they should besiege the City by Land, the Citizens would with all their best mouea∣bles flie into Italy by Sea, and receiuing also a great yeerely tribute from the trafficke of this City, (where the great Turke hath his owne Officer called Chiaussagha to gather the same,) are also content not to molest them by warre, especially since they know that the Pope, the King of Spaine, and the State of Venice, would assist the Raguzeant against them, and no way indure that the Turkish Ottoman should make himselfe Lord of that Hauen.

Vpon the three and twenty of Aprill towards euening, we sayled by the little Iland Augusta, (being yet of a good large circuit, and populous, and subiect to the Ragu∣zeans, but the Coast is dangerous for ships arriuall, by reason of the Rockes called the Augustines,) and by the little Iland Corsolavi. Some Ilands in this Sea are subiect to the Raguzeans, and some neere to the Northerne continent, haue the Great Turke for their Lord, but the rest are subiect to the Venetians, and are very many in number, but lit∣tle, and good part of them little or not at all inhabited. The Italians our consorts, told vs of an Iland not farre distant, called Pelaguza, and lying neere the continent of Italy, vpon the Coast whereof the famous Turkish Pyrate of Algier, (a Hauen in Africa) was lately wont to houer and lie hidden, and made rich booties of the Venetian and Italian Merchants. Vpon Sunday the foure and twenty of Aprill, we had in sight, and little distant, the little Ilands, Catza and Lissa, and in the afternoone on our left hand towards Italy the Iland Pomo, and in the euening towards Dalmatia, two Ilands, and vpon the continent the City Zaga, being some two hundred miles distant from Venice. And the night following we sailed ouer an arme of the Sea some thirty miles broade, lying betweene Dalmatia and Istria, called Il Cornaro, which we passed without any * 9.38 appearance of danger, though otherwise it be generally reputed so dangerous, as the Venetians offended with any Marriner, vse this imprecation; Maledetto sia il Cornaro che t'ha lasciato passare; that is: Cursed be the Cornaro for letting thee passe. Vpon Mon∣day the fiue and twenty of Aprill, as we sailed by the Coast of Istria, one of the Marri∣ners aged, and (as we thought) honest, and of some authority among the rest, priuately admonished me, that I should safely locke vp our goods in our chests, left the inferior Marriners should steale our shirts, or any other thing they found negligently left, which they vsed to doe, especially at the end of any voyage. Vpon Tuesday the sixe and twenty of April, we cast anchor beyond Pola, in the continent of Istria, a City now ruined, and vpon the seuen and twenty day we entred the Hauen of Rouinge in Istria, subiect to the Venetians, where the ships vse to take a Pilot for their owne safety, or els are tied so to doe by some old priuiledge of that City. Here the Prouisors for health gaue vs liberty of free conuersation, (as they had formerly done at Zante), seeing no man in our ship to be sicke or sickely. And I did not a little wonder, when I obserued each second or third person of this City to halt and be lame of one foot, which made me remember the Citizens of Islebe in Germany, and in the Prouince of Saxony, where almost all the men haue wry neckes; whereof I knew the cause, namely because they vsed daily to dig in mines, with their neckes leaning on one side: but of this common lamenes of the Inhabitants in Rouinge, I could not learne any probable cause, except it were the foule disease of lust, raigning in those parts, which I rather thought likely, be∣cause the lamenesse was common to weomen as men.

Now the sayling in our great ship was like to be more trouble some, dangerous, and slow, whereupon fiue of vs ioyning together, did vpon the thirtieth of Aprill (after the old stile) hier a boate of sixe Oares, for seuen Venetian Duckets to Venice, where we * 9.39 arriued the next day towards euening, and staied in our boat vpon the wharfe of the Market place of Saint Marke, till the Prouisors of health sitting in their Office neere that place, came vnto vs, and after some conference, vnderstanding that we and our

ship were free of all infection or sicknesse, gaue vs free liberty of conuersation. Wee staied three dayes at Venice to refresh our selues, and paied each man three lyres for each meale in a Dutch Inne.

Then hauing receiued money of a Merchant, I went to the Village Mestre, and there bought of Dutchmen newly arriued in Italy, two horses for my selfe and my man, the one for thirtie, the other for twentie ducates. These horses I sold at Stode in Germany after my iourney ended, at, or about the same rate. He that hath the Dutch tongue, and either knowes the waies of Germany himselfe, or hath consorts skilfull therein, being to trauell from Stode, or those parts into Italy, shall finde more profit in buying a horse in those parts of Germany, for so hee shall saue great summes vsually paid for coches, and at the iournies end, or rather by the way towards the ende of his iourney, may in Italy sell his horses with good profit. In the Village Mestre, each of vs paid each meale fiftie soldi, that is, two lires and a halfe.

From hence we took the right way to Augsburg in Germany, to Nurnberg, Brunswick, and to Stode, an old Citie lying on the Northern Sea of Germany. The particulars of which iourney I here omit, hauing in my iourney to Ierusalem passed the very same way from Stode to Venice.

So as it shall suffice to adde some few things in generall. Within the confines of Italy, each man of vs paid for each meale fortie, and sometimes fiftie Venetian soldi, and for hay and stable for his horse commonly at noone foure soldi, at night twelue soldi, and for ten measures of oates giuen each day to each horse fiftie soldi.

After we entred Germany, each man paid each meale commonly twentie creitzers, at Inspruch twentie foure, and somtimes twentie six creitzers, for hay six creitzers a day, or there-abouts, and for ten measures of oates, seruing one horse for a day wee paid fiftie creitzers. In the middle Prouinces of Germany, each of vs paid for each meale com∣monly sixteene creitzers, that is, foure batzen, and in the parts vpon the Northerne sea some foure Lubeck shillings. And from the Citie Armstat (seated betweene Augs∣burg and Nurnberg) to the said Northern sea side, we had a new measure of oates called Hembd, one of which measures was sold for some tenne Lubeck shillings, and serued three horses for our baite at noone, and another was almost sufficient for them at night.

From Stode seated vpon the German Sea, we passed in a boat to the outmost Hauen, where wee went abroad an English ship vpon the fourth of Iuly (after the old stile) be∣ing Tuesday. The sixt of Iuly early in the morning we set sayle, and the eight of Iuly we came vpon the most wished land of England, and cast anchor neere Orford, a Castle in Suffolke. Vpon Saturday the ninth of Iuly (after the old stile) we landed at Graues∣end and without delay with the night-tide passed in a boat to London, where we ariued on Sunday at foure of the clock in the morning, the tenth of Iuly, in the yeere 1597, * 9.40 our hearts beingfull of ioy, that our mercifull God had safely brought vs thither. This early hower of the morning being vnfit to trouble my friends, I went to the Cocke (an Inne of Aldersgate streete) and there apparrelled as I was, laid me downe vpon a bed, where it happened, that the Constable and watchmen (either being more busie in their office then need was, or hauing extraordinary charge to search vpon some foraine intelligence, and seeing me apparrelled like an Italian) tooke me for a Ie∣suit or Priest (according to their ignorance; for the crafty Priests would neuer haue worne such clothes as I then did. But after some few howers when I awaked, and while I washed my hands, did inquire after my friends health, dwelling in the same streete, the Host of the house knowing me, dismissed the watchmen that say to appre∣hend me, and told me how I had been thus mistaken.

CHAP. V: Of the iourney through England, Scotland and Ireland.

HE that desires to see the Cities and Antiquities of England, Scotland and Ireland, let him reade the Chapter of the vsu∣all manner of all kingdomes to iourney, and to hire Coches and horses, and also the Chapter, wherein these Kingdomes are Geographically described out of Camden, or if he list, rather let him reade Camden himselfe of this point: and lastly let him in the same last named Chapter peruse the diet of these Kingdomes, and the entertainement in Innes; Touching the distances of places by miles: first, for Eng∣land he shall easily find a little printed booke particularly setting downe the same. For Scotland I will briefely set downe my iourney therein. And for Ireland, the Cities being rare and farre distant, hee must haue a guide, who may without great trouble inquire them out. Onely giue me leaue for the helpe of strangers to adde this one thing, namely, how they being curious to search antiquities, and loth to omit the light of things worthy of obseruation, may to this purpose best dispose of their iournies, which all other men may fit to their endes and purposes. First, let them passe out of Normandy to Rhye, an English Hauen in Sussex, then let them visit such of the fiue Kentish Ports as they please, let them see Cânterbury, famous for the Seate of the Metropolitan Archbishop; then the Castle of Qüinborrough, in the Iland of Shoppey, and the Regall Nauy; then let them passe by Rochester (a Bishops Seate), the Regall Pallace at Greenewich, and Depford the Nauall storehouse, and not farre thence see the broken ribbes of the ship, wherein famous Sir Francis Drake com∣passed the World, and so let them come to London. When they haue viewed the Monuments of London and Westminster, and seene the Kings Court, they may take a cursory iourney to view such antiquities in Middlesex, Surry, and Barkshire, as vpon the reading of Camden they shall most desire to see, and especially all, or the chiefe Pallaces of the King. Againe, from London they may take a cursory iourney to see the Vniuer∣sity of Oxford, and so by Worcester returne to London. In their iourney to the confines of England and Scotland, they may see the Vniuersitie of Cambridge, and view the most choise antiquities mentioned by Master Camden in Harfordshire, Northamptonshire, Lincolnsheire, Yorkeshire, Durham and Northumberland.

My selfe vpon occasion of businesse in the month of Aprill, and the yeere 1598, tooke a iourney to these said confines, namely, to Barwick, a Towne then very strongly * 9.41 fortified by the English, to restraine the sudden incursions of the Scots, and aboun∣ding with all things necessary for food, yea with many dainties, as Salmons and all kindes of shell-fish, so plentifully, as they were sold for very small prices. And here I found that for the lending of sixtie pound, there wanted not good Citizens, who would giue the lender a faire chamber and good dyet, as long as he would lend them the mony. Being to returne from Barwicke, I had an earnest desire, first, to see the King of Scots Court. So from hence I rode in one day fortie miles to Edenborrow the chiefe Citie of that Kingdome. And in this said daies iourney after foure miles ri∣ding I came to Aton, a Village where the Lord of Hames dwelles, whose Family was powerfull in those parts. After sixteene miles more I came to Dunbar, which they said to haue been of old a Towne of some importance, but then it lay ruined, and see∣med of little moment, as well for the pouertie, as the small number of inhabitants. Af∣ter the riding of eight miles more, on the left hand towards the West, and something out of the high way, the pleasant Village Hadrington lay, which the English, in the raigne of Queene Elizabeth, tooke, and kept against the French, who drawne ouer in

the time of faction, kept the Towne of Dunbar, and fortified the same. When I had ridden fiue miles further, I came to the ancient and (according to the building of that Kingdome) stately Pallace of the L. Seton, beautified with faire Orchards and Gar∣dens, and for that clime pleasant. Not farre thence lyes the Village Preston-graung, belonging to the Family of the Cars, powerfull from these parts to the very borders of England within land. After I had ridden three miles more, I came to the Village Fisherawe, neere which beyond a Brooke lyes the Village Musselborow in a stony soyle, famous for a great Victorie of the English against the Scots. On the left hand to∣wards the West, and something out of the high way, the Queene of Scots then kept her Court (in the absence of the King) at the Village Dawkeith, in a Pallace belonging to the Earle of Murray.

From the said Village Fishrawe, I rode the rest of the way, being foure miles, and so * 9.42 in one dayes iourney (as I said) came to Edenborow, seated in Lodouey, (of old called Fictland) the most ciuill Region of Scotland, being hilly and fruitfull of corne, but ha∣uing little or no wood. This City is the seat of the King of Scotland, and the Courts of Iustice are held in the same. Of old according to the changeable fortune of warre, it was sometimes in the possession of the Scots, sometimes of the English inhabiting this Easterne part of Scotland, till the English Kingdome being shaken with the inuasi∣ons of the Danes, at last about the yeere 960. it became wholly in the power of the Scots. This City is high seated, in a fruitfull soyle and wholsome aire, and is adorned with many Noblemens Towers lying about it, and aboundeth with many springs of sweet waters. At the end towards the East, is the Kings Pallace ioyning to the Mona∣stery of the Holy Crosse, which King Dauid the first built, ouer which, in a Parke of Hares, Conies, and Deare, an high mountaine hangs, called the chaire of Arthur, (of Arthur the Prince of the Britanes, whose monuments famous among all Ballad-ma∣kers, are for the most part to be found on these borders of England and Scotland). From the Kings Pallace at the East, the City still riseth higher and higher towards the West, and consists especially of one broad and very faire street, (which is the greatest part and sole ornament thereof), the rest of the side streetes and allies being of poore building and inhabited with very poore people, and this length from the East to the West is about a mile, whereas the bredth of the City from the North to the South is narrow, and cannot be halfe a mile. At the furthest end towards the West, is a very strong Castle, which the Scots hold vnexpugnable. Camden saith this Castle was of old called by the Britaines, Castle meyned agnea, by the Scots; The Castle of the Maids or Virgines, (of certaine Virgines kept there for the Kings of the Picts), and by Ptolomy the winged Castle. And from this Castle towards the West, is a most steepe Rocke pointed on the highest top, out of which this Castle is cut: But on the North & South sides without the wals, lie plaine and fruitfull fields of Corne. In the midst of the fore∣said faire streete, the Cathedrall Church is built, which is large and lightsome, but lit∣tle stately for the building, and nothing at all for the beauty and ornament. In this Church the Kings seate is built some few staires high of wood, and leaning vpon the pillar next to the Pulpit: And opposite to the same is another seat very like it, in which the incontinent vse to stand and doe pennance; and some few weekes past, a Gentle∣man, being a stranger, and taking it for a place wherein Men of better quality vsed to sit, boldly entred the same in Sermon time, till he was driuen away with the profuse laughter of the common sort, to the disturbance of the whole Congregation. The houses are built of vnpolished stone, and in the faire streete good part of them is of free stone, which in that broade streete would make a faire shew, but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden galleries, built vpon the second story of the houses; yet these galleries giue the owners a faire and pleasant prospect, into the said faire and broad street, when they sit or stand in the same. The wals of the City are built of little and vnpolished stones, and seeme ancient, but are very narrow, and in some places ex∣ceeding low, in other, ruiued.

From Edenborow there is a ditch of water, (yet not running from the Inland, but ri∣sing * 9.43 ofsprings) which is carried to Lethe, and so to the Sea. Lethe is seated vpon a creek

of the Sea, called the Frith, some mile from Edenborow, and hath a most commodious and large Hauen. When Monsieur Dessy a Frenchman, did fortifie Lethe, for the strength of Edenborow, it began of a base Village to grow to a Towne. And when the French King Francis the second had married Mary Queene of the Scots: againe the French, (who now had in hope deuoured the possession of that Kingdome, and in the yeere 1560. began to aime at the conquest of England) more strongly fortified this Towne of Lethe: but Elizabeth Queene of England, called to the succour of the Lords of Scotland against these Frenchmen, called in by the Queene, soone effected that the French returned into their Countrey, and these fortifications were demo∣lished.

Erom Leth I crossed ouer the Frith, (which ebs and flowes as high as Striuelin) to the Village King-korn, being eight miles distant, and seated in the Region or Country called Fife, which is a Peninsule, that is, almost an Iland, lying betweene two creekes of the Sea, called Frith and Taye, and the Land yeelds corne and pasture and seacoales, as the Seas no lesse plentifully yeeld (among other fish,) store of oysters & shel fishes, and this Countrey is populous, and full of Noblemens and Gentlemens dwellings commonly compassed with little groues, though trees are so rare in those parts, as I re∣member not to haue seene one wood.

From the said Village King-korn, I rode ten very long miles to Falkeland, then the Kings House for hunting, but of old belonging to the Earles of Fife, where I did glad∣ly see I ames the sixth King of the Scots, at that time lying there to follow the pastimes of hunting and hawking, for which this ground is much commended; but the Pallace was of old building and almost ready to fall, hauing nothing in it remarkeable. I thought to haue ridden from hence to Saint Andrewes a City, seated in Fife, and well known as an Vniuersity, and the seate of the Archbishop: But this iourney being hin∣dred, I wil onely say, that the Bishop of Saint Andrewes, at the intercession of the King of Scotland Iames the third, was by the Pope first made Primate of all Scotland, the same Bishop and all other Bishops of that Kingdome hauing formerly to that day beene consecrated and confirmed by the Archbishop of Yorke in England. Likewise I purpo∣sed to take my iourney as farre as Striuelin, where the King of the Scots hath a strong Castle, built vpon the front of a steepe Rocke, which King Iames the sixth since ador∣ned with many buildings, and the same hath for long time beene committed to the keeping of the Lords of Eriskin, who likewise vse to haue the keeping of the Prince of Scotland, being vnder yeeres. And from thence I purposed to returne to Edenborow, but some occasions of vnexpected businesse recalled me speedily into England, so as I returned presently to Edenborow, and thence to Barwicke, the same way I came.

I adde for passengers instruction, that they who desire to visit the other Counties of England and Ireland, may passe from Edenborow to Carlile, chiefe City of Comberland in England, and so betweene the East parts of Lancashire and the West parts of Yorke, and then through Darbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Warwickeshire, Staffordshire, and Ches∣shire, may take their iourney to the City Westchester, whence they shall haue commo∣dity to passe the Sea to Dablin in Ireland, and while they expect this passage, they may make a cursory iourney into Flintshire, and Caernaruenshire in Northwales, to see the antiquities thereof, or otherwise may goe directly to Holy Head, and thence make a shorter cut to Dublyn in Ireland. From Dublyn they may passe to see the Cities of the Prouince Mounster, whence they may commodiously passe to the South parts of Wales, and there especially see the antiquities of Merlyn, and so taking their iourney to the West parts of England, may search the antiquities of these seuerall Counties, and easily find commoditie to passeinto the West parts of France: And all this circuit beginning at London, may (with ordinary fauourable winds according to the season of the yeere) be easily made, from the beginning of March, to the end of September. Al∣waies I professe onely to prescribe this course, to such as are curious to search all the famous monuments and antiquities of England, mentioned in Camdens compleat de∣scription thereof.

CHAP. VI. Of the manner to exchange Moneys into forraine parts, and the diuers moneys of diuers parts, together with the diuers measures of miles in sundry Nations, most necessary for the vnder∣standing of the former iournall.

THE Trauellers most commodious course, is to deliuer into the hands of some Merchant those kinds of gold or siluer coynes, which are of greatest value in those parts to which he takes his iourney, with couenant to deliuer him by his Factor the same, both in the Species or kind, and in the number, or to send them in that sort to him by a tru∣sty messenger. But the first course is not in vse, besides that, it is a difficult taske, to find such diuers kinds in any particular place, except it be from the Exchangers and V∣surers, who vse not to serue another mans turne for profit or otherwise, without their owne gaine; and being most expert in such affaires, are like to draw all the hoped pro∣fit to themselues. And the second course threatens many dangers, by robberies, by confiscations of the transmitted Coynes, and by the doubtfull credit of the messen∣gers. Particularly in England and France, he that is knowne to carry great summes of money about him, shall runne great danger to be robbed, and in England the Law for∣bids any Traueller vpon paine of confiscation, to carry more money about him out of the Kingdome, then will serue for the expences of his iourney, (namely, aboue twenty pounds sterling). As likewise in France, the like Law restraines the exporting of money, allowing an Horseman from Lyons to Rome, eighty crownes, from Turine to Rome fifty, and no more, for his expences; all greater summes found about him, be∣ing subiect to confiscation: yet I confesse that many wary Trauellers haue exported greater summes out of England into France, and out of France into England; and there∣by with these hazards, haue made great gaine: But vpon the confines of Italy, and the seuerall principalities thereof, yea, at the gates of each City in Italy, most crafty Offi∣cers so curiously search into the breach of these Paenall Statutes, and so narrowly prie into all mens carriage, neuer wincking at any delinquent, as there is no hope vpon breach of the Law to escape the penalty: for these searchers are tied to more strict at∣tention in this businesse, that (according to their Office) they may beware least their Princes be defrauded of their Tributes. And since very Iewels, and the least toyes car∣ried about passengers, are subiect to frequent Tributes (according to the frequent Principalities) these good fellowes leaue nothing vnassaied, in the wished discouery of these fraudes, yea, where they haue no iust suspition of fraud; yet cease they not to trouble passengers in this kind, till they haue extorted some bribe or gift from them. Behold here a two horned danger, (as I may tearme it of the captious argument, called Dilemma) which trauellers cannot possibly escape in Italy, who carry about them Iew∣els or great summes of money, where they are in danger of confiscation, if they hide them warily, and of theeues, if they shew them, and pay due tributes for them. For theeues (namely, men banished for notorious crimes) lie continually vpon the confines of Princes (very frequent in Italy), and more specially of the Kingdome of Naples and of the Popes territory. In Germany, Bomerland, Sweitzerland, the Low-Countreys, Denmarke, Poland, and Turkey, passengers may carry summes of money about them with more security, neither haue I there obserued any great danger therein, so that the passenger affect not solitarinesse, and be so wary as not to boast of his plenty.

Touching the diuers kinds of Coynes to be transported, I forewarne the Reader, that the gold Coynes of England and of France, and aswell the siluer as gold Coynes of Spaine, are in generall spent abroad with greatest gaine: but euen the gold and siluer Coynes of other Princes, are rarely currant out of their owne Dominions, and can

hardly be exchanged among Merchants without some losse. Againe, that hee who exports any gold coynes, must take care to haue them of iust weight, for such hee may disburse with gaine, but shall beare losse in others that are lighter, because they want the helpe of their Princes Prerogatiue, where no man can be forced to receiue them. Now I wil briefly shew, which kinds of foraine coines are most valued in diuers states. In England the gold and siluer coynes of Spaine and French Crownes are highly valu∣ed. In Scotland the same coynes, and as well in Scotland as Ireland; moreouer, the gold and siluer coynes of England are valued. For Germany: at Stode the English an∣gels, and all the gold coynes of England, France and Spaine are most esteemed: but if you passe into the vpper parts of Germany, you must for your expences there change these coynes at Stode into the Rhenish gold guldens, and siluer dollers of Germany. But at Vienna and the confines of Hungary, the Hungarian ducats are most currant. In Boh∣merland the Rheinish gold guldens, the siluer dollers of Germany, and the Hungarian ducats. In Sweitzerland, first, the French Crownes of gold, then the gold guldens and siluer dollers of Germany. In Denmarke the siluer and gold coynes of England. At Dantzk in Prussen, and throughout all Poland, the gold coynes of England, and the gold guldens and siluer dollers of Germany, and especially Hungarian ducats. In France vpon the Sea coasts, the Angels and gold coynes of England are currant: but for your iourney further into the land, you must change them into French Crownes, and the siluer coynes of that Kingdome, and the gold coynes of Spaine are very cur∣rant in all the Cities euen within the land. In the Low Countries, all coynes are cur∣rant, they being most cunning exchangers, and wanting many things, yet drawing to them abundance of all forraine commodities, so as they haue skill to draw gold out of the dung (as he said of Ennius.) Yet they most esteeme the coynes of England, Spaine, and France. In Turkey the gold zechines of Venice are most currant, and preferred euen before their owne Sultanones of gold. The coynes after them most esteemed and to be spent with most gaine, are the siluer ryals of Spaine (which the Italians call Pezzi d'otto, and Pezzi di quattro, pieces of eight, and pieces of foure, and the Turks call piastri, and halfe piastri.) In Italy generally the gold coynes of Spaine are spent with most aduantage. In the next place, and more particularly at Venice and Naples the French Crownes are esteemed, but in Italy more then any other place; you must haue care they be of iust weight. In generall, all gold coynes may be put away with gayne at Venice, but they being in other parts of Italy lesse valued, or not currant, hee that trauels higher, must change them there into siluer Crownes of Italy, and least the weight of them should be burthensome, and he should chance to fall into the hands of theeues (called Banditi, banished men), he shall do well to carry no more about him then will suffice for the expences of his iourney, and to deliuer the rest to some Veneti∣an Merchant of credit, taking his bils of exchange, or letters, by which he may receiue them in any other Citie or Cities, as his occasions require.

But in respect of the foresaid difficulties to export coynes In specie, that is, in the kinde, the Traueller shall doe better who takes the second and most vsuall course, ta∣king care to haue his moneys deliuered to the exchangers (or Merchants) by the hands of some trustie friend, to be exchanged ouer (according to the exchange variable in re∣spect of the time, and the place to which it is to bee made) and sent to him in forraine parts for his expence (by seuerall sums, and at set times of the yeere.) This exchange is so variable vpon many vsuall accidents, as a constant manner of so vnconstant a thing cannot be prescribed. But the rate & course therof may be inquired in the Burse (or publike meeting place for the Merchants.) For the alteration thereof is weekely made knowne particularly to the Merchants, that by letters they presently may certifie the same to their seuerall Facters beyond the Seas. Now this daily alteration of the exchange commeth, partly of the quantitie of moneys for the present to be exchan∣ged to the Princes or Merchants vses, and of the greater or lesser number of those that desire moneys in exchange. For when small summes are to be exchanged, either by the Prince for payment of his Army, or by the Merchants for their traffick, and when many desire moneys vpon exchange, then the rate thereof is raised, and the Traueller

made a Motion that some of this House might be sent to their Lordships with request that the said M^r Popham being a Member of this House might forthwith be remanded and restored to this House again, which some thought not needful to be done before the Election, and others again deny∣ing that he or any other could be Chosen Speaker except he were present himself. The Clerk was Commanded to read the said Precedent again of chusing M^r Onslow in the said eighth year of her Majesties Reign (which said Precedent see on Monday the 16^th day of this instant foregoing) and thereupon that course being agreed upon to be followed, the said M^r Treasurer and others were sent up to the Lords to demand the restitution of the said M^r Popham, and brought Answer again that their Lordships had resolved he should be sent down, the rather because he was a Mem∣ber of this House, and this House possessed of him before he was Sollicitor, or had any place of Attendance in the Upper House. Upon relation whereof a Motion was presently made, that it was not meet or convenient to chuse a Speaker by persons that were not of the House, and withal it was thought of some that divers per∣sons being newly returned in the places of others yet living, were not, or ought not to be ac∣counted Members of this House. Whereupon to avoid length of Argument and the impedi∣ment of the Election, the said M^r Treasurer by the Assent of the House pronounced an Admo∣nition, that all such as were newly returned in the places of others yet living should forbear to repair to the House till their case were further considered. Then immediately M^r Anderson the Queens Serjeant at Law, and Sir Gilbert Gerard Knight her Highness Attorney General, brought from the Lords the said M^r Popham her Majesties Sollicitor General, one of the Citizens for the City of Bristol, and restored him to this House as a Member of the same, and so departed. And then was a Motion made by M^r Lewkenor for Prayer to be used before the Election, that it might please God both in that and in the residue of the Proceedings of this House, to direct them with his Holy Spirit; and a form of Prayer was then read to the House by the Clerk. And then afterwards the House proceeding to the Election of a Speaker, the said M^r Treasurer first speak∣ing did for his own part name and commend the said M^r Popham, alledging many good reasons and causes moving him thereunto, but still lea∣ving nevertheless liberty without prejudice to the residue of the House to name whom they would or thought good. And thereupon the whole House with full consent of Voices agreed upon the chusing of the said M^r Popham; who standing up and much disabling himself in dutiful and reverend wise, and alledging for himself many reasonable causes and excuses, besought them humbly to proceed to a new Election, whereof the House did not allow; and so then was he forthwith by the said M^r Treasurer and M^r Comptroller brought up and placed in the Chair, and order thereupon given that the House should the next day Assemble together, both to understand her Majesties Pleasure for presenting of the Speaker, and also to determine of the case of the said persons newly returned into this House in the places of others yet living.

On Thursday the 19^th day of January the House again Assembled, the Speaker Elect sitting in the Chair.

The matter began to be debated touching the said Burgesses, of whom question was made the day before; and the Case was opened by M^r Norton a Citizen of London to the effect follow∣ing, viz.

That there be Members of this House absent in her Majesties Service, as in Embassage, or in her affairs in Ireland, in whose place new be returned.

Item, some persons be sick of durable Di∣seases, as Agues, &c. and new be returned in their places.

Item, one M^r Flowerden was the last Session Burgess for Castle-Rising in Norfolk, and in the Vacation was sick: Upon suggestion of which sickness a Writ went to chuse a new. Where∣upon Sir William Drewry is Chosen and returned for Castle-Rising, who now appeareth, and M^r Flowerden also. In the same Vacation one Bea∣mond a Citizen for Norwich is sick of the Gout, upon suggestion whereof a Writ went out to chuse a new for Norwich; M^r Flowerden is cho∣sen, returned and newly sworn for Norwich. Vide March 18^th Saturday postea.

The Questions are whether such as be returned in places of persons sick, or of persons absent in the Queens Service, be Burgesses, and the old discharged. M^r Norton thought the old Burgesses remained, and that the said causes of sickness and service are good excuses for their absence, but no causes to remove them and to chuse new. And for this he alledged divers Precedents, as of Do∣ctor Dale Embassador in France, and of Sir Henry Sidney Deputy of Wales, who having been formerly both of them Members of the House of Commons, and absent by reason of both their said Imployments, yet when their case was once made known unto the House and there question∣ed, they were still retained as Members of the said House, and no new chosen, or admitted. But however although such absent Members by reason of sickness or Foreign Imployment might be removed, yet that ought not to be done up∣on a suggestion in the Chancery, but by the Judgment of the House of Commons upon in∣formation thereof.

M^r Serjeant Flowerden, M^r Robert Snagg, M^r Seintpoole, and M^r Serjeant Fleetwood Comp∣troller argued to the contrary, and said, that in all these cases new are to be chosen, and the old discharged. And that it needeth not to have dis∣charge by the Judgment of the House, but it sufficeth to make suggestion in the Chancery, and to procure a Writ thereupon for a new Election. And to question this was to discredit the Lord

ly, to bee paid, at sight, at vsance, at halfe vsance, and at double vsance; which word vsance being not English, I take to be borrowed of the Italian word vsanza, signifying a manner or custome. The word (at sight) imports present payment; at halfe vsance a fortnight after the date; at vsance; a moneth; at double vsance, two moneths. And thus to him that goes from London to Hamburg in Germany, it is all one, whether his bill of exchange be paid at sight; or at halfe vsance, since hce can hardly arriue there in lesse space then a fortnight. But touching the exchange from London to Venice far∣ther distant, by the word vsance three moneths are signified, and by double vsance six moneths. The Turks Empier is so farre distant, and the iourney sare so vncertaine, as our Merchants vse no certaine rate of exchange thither, neither indeed vse they to giue any billes of exchange, but onely letters of credit, to receiue set summes of mo∣ney, or at large, as much as the traueller shall want, (of which third kinde of receiuing money in forraine parts, I shall hereafter speake.) By the foresaid billes of exchange, according to the foresaid opportunities, the traueller commonly loseth, and some∣times gaineth. For my self am familiarly acquainted with a Merchant, who tooke vp one hundred pounds at London, to be paid by his Factor at Stode in Germany, which Factor againe tooke vp the same hundred pounds at Stode, to be paid by his Master at London, and at foure moneths end, he paied the same, hauing by these bils of exchange made vse thereof all this time, without one penny losse. But in generall, when great quantitie of money is to bee made ouer to any place from London, the traueller shall lose after fiue in the hundred by the yeere; and when small quantitie is to bee made ouer, he shall lose after the rate of fifteene in the hundred by the yeere, and ordinari∣ly he shall lose about the rate of ten in the hundred by the yeere.

By reason of the aforesaid vncertaintie in receiuing money by billes of exchange, as well by the slow sending of them, as by the delay which Factors vse to make in paying them, as also by the vsuall negligence of the trauellers friend, who is to make ouer his mony, or by his want of ready mony at the time. I say for this vncertaintie, lest the tra∣ueller should lose the season of the yeere fit to take iourneys, by the expecting of his mony, a third course of receiuing mony in forraine parts hath growne in vse; namely, that the traueller should take with him letters of credit, from some Merchant of great trade to his Factor, to furnish him from place to place of money, either according to his want, or for a certaine yeerely summe. I confesse it is a more frugall course, that he should first pay his money at home, and after receiue it beyond the Seas, then that he should first receiue it there, and after repay it at home: but I would aduise him to make ouer his money after the foresaid manner by billes of Exchange, and withall to carry these letters of credit for abundant caution of all euents, so as vpon any crosse accident, he may rather incurre a small losse of money, then the vnrecouerable losse of time. Yet euen in money taken by letters of credit, reckoning the time of the repai∣ment, Merchants vse not to exact greater gaine, then ten in the hundreth by the yeere, especially if they be honest men, or haue any bond of friendship with the traueller, or his friends at home, and be confident of repaiment, without any doubt, arising either by the trauellers sicknesse or by his friends ill keeping of their credit.

It remaines that I adde somewhat in generall out of my experience, of the rate at which my selfe receiued money by the foresaid bils of exchange, or letters of credit. And first I will confesse my negligent omission, in noting the rates of my exchanges, whereof (as a matter of moment) I much repent me; but for this reason the Reader must beare with me, if I set the same downe more briefly then were fit for his instru∣ction. Our of England into Scotland, and Ireland, a Traueller shall haue many oppor∣tunities to carry monies Inspecie, (that is, in kind), or to exchange them without any losse. The exchange out of England, to Stoade or Hamburge in Germany, vseth to beare this rate, for a pound, (or twenty shillings sterling) to receiue there fiue and twenty Hamburge shillings and sixe pence. My selfe deliuered forty pounds in England, and after the rate of twenty foure Hamburg shillings and eight pence, for each English pound, or at the rate of an imperiall doller, vallued at foure shillings six pence English, I receiued at Stoade forty nine Hamburg pounds six shillings and eight pence. Hereof

I kept in my purse ten dollers, (that is, two Hamburg pounds and fifteene shillings), the rest I left in a Merchants hands, who sent me at diuers times to Leipzig, first nine and thirty dollers, (that is, ten Hamburg pounds foureteene shillings and six pence), & at another time threescore dollers, (that is, sixteene Hamburg pounds ten shillings) and the third time seuenty dollers, (that is, nineteene Hamburg pounds fiue shillings) These ioined together with two shillings, paied to the Carrier for my letters, make the foresaid summe of forty nine Hamburg pounds sixe shillings eight pence, receiued v∣pon bill of exchange for my forty pound first paid in London. Againe, I tooke vp an Stode from an English Merchant, seuenty dollers vpon my letters of credit, and rating each doller at foure shillings eight pence English, I gaue him a bill of sixteene pound sterling, to be paid him by my friend in London. From these parts in Germany, a Tra∣ueller must carry with him the foresaid kinds of moneyes most currant in Germany, when he takes his iourney to the vpper parts of Germany, to Bohemia, and to Sweitzer∣land, or the confines of Hungary. The exchange out of England into the Low-Coun∣tries, vsually rateth an English pound sterling, first paid in England, at foure and thirty Flemmish shillings, wanting two stiuers, to be paid after in the Low-Countries. In Denmarke Trauellers seldome make any long aboad, and the trade of our Merchants is more rare in that Kingdome, wanting natiue commodities; so as there is no vsuall exchange from London thither. From London to Dantzk in Prussen, the exchange of an English pound sterling, first paid in London, vseth to be rated at foure and twenty Hamburg shillings and six pence, to be paid there. My selfe by letters of credit recei∣ved fifty dollers at Dantzk, and after the rate of foure shillings six pence English for each doller, I gaue my bill for the payment of eleuen pound fiue shillings English, to be repaied by my friend at London. And at Dantzk the same Merchant for the same fifty dollers gaue me one and thirty Hungarian duckets of gold, and foureteen grosh in siluer, being the fittest money for my iourney to Crakaw in Poland, and to Vienna in Oestreich (or Austria). Out of England to Venice in Italy, the exchange of foure shillings and sixe or eight pence English, vseth to bee rated at a Venetian Ducket. My selfe tooke no bils of exchange from England to Venice, but had letters of credit, to receiue money of a Venetian Merchant, to be repaid in London vpon my bill, after the rate of foure shillings three pence for each Venetian ducket. And at first being to take my iourney for Rome and Naples, I tooke vp two hundred siluer crownes, most fit for that iourney, which at Venice were rated at two hundred fiue & twenty duckets, and nine∣teene grosh, and I gaue my bill for three and fifty pound sterling, twelue shillings and sixe pence English, to be repaied by my friend in London. Then I retained with my selfe as many of those crownes, as were necessary for my iourney, leauing the rest in the hands of a Venetian Merchant, who gaue me a bill to receiue so many crownes In specie, (that is, in kind) at Florence, where I purposed to make my aboad for some few moneths. Out of England into Turkey, I formerly said that for the vncertainty of the iourney, vpon the great distances of places, there is no certaine value of exchange, neither vse our Merchants to send bils of exchange thither, but to giue letters of credit, first to receiue money there, either at large according to the passengers wants, or for a certaine yeerely summe, to be after repaied in England, vpon the passengers bill. And the Merchants there, for each zechine of gold of Venice, deliuered at Haleppo, vse to ex∣act nine or ten shiliings English, to be repaied in London, to the passengers great losse, which he that will auoid, may exchange his money to Venice, and there receiue ze∣chines of gold, or siluer moneys of Spaine, to carry with him In specie, (that is, in kind). From London into France, the exchange of sixe shillings English, vseth to be rated at threescore French soulz, or three French pounds, which make a common French crowne (but a French crowne In specie, and of iust waight, is valued there at threescore and foure soulz, (as in England an Angell of gold is worth more then ten shillings sil∣uer among the Exchangers, though in expences it is giueri out for no more then ten shillings) and not onely bils of exchange into France are giuen at the foresaid rate for moneys first receiued in England: but he that hath a merchant to his friend or acquain∣tance, may easily compound to receiue money, first, in France vpon his letters of cre∣dit,

and to repay it in London after the rate of sixe shillings English, for sixtie French soulz.

To this I will adde two generall cautions, most necessarie for trauellers; first, whereas in Germany and Italy, the Territories of absolute Princes are frequent, and of small extent, and each of these Princes doth coyne small pieces of brasse money, it be∣hooueth the passenger to take heede, that he spend each Princes brasse moneys with∣in his Territory, or else that vpon the confines hee change them into brasse moneys currant in the next Territory; which if hee neglect, the subiects of the new Prince, howsoeuer they bee neighbours to the former Prince, and may daily change these coynes for their owne, yet they will not receiue them without great gaine, they being of themselues little worth, and onely by the prerogatiue of each Prince, currant a∣mong their owne subiects. Secondly, the passenger must take speciall care, to leauea faithfull friend at home, to pay the bils readily, which he sends ouer to his Merchant, for so doing, hee shall neuer want in forraine parts (at least among Christians, and knowne places of trafficke), yea, out of his good report hee shall bee furnished with more money, then is warranted by his letters of credit: but on the contrary, if his friend deny or delay paiments, hee shall not haue credit to borrow a penny vpon his occasions, more then that for which the Factors shall haue warrant by billes of ex∣change, or letters of credit; and if he fall into any misfortune, he shall not find a friend to deliuer him from penurie and shame.

These things being sayed in generall, nothing remaines now, but to set downe the particular moneys of seuerall Kingdomes, and the value of them, at the time when I liued beyond Seas, which value is subiect to change, at the pleasure of each absolute Prince. And in this discourse I thinke most fit to begin with the moneys of England, being more familiarly knowne vnto me.

Being to write of the Standard, weight, and value of English moneys, I thinke fit * 9.44 first to giue some few admonitions to the Reader.

First, that the purest gold containes foure and twentie caracts in the ounce, and foure graines make a caract.

Secondly, that the purest siluer containes twelue ounces in each pound Troy weight: And that Edward the first, King of England, keeping the Feast of Christs Natiuitie at Barwich, in the yeere 1300, did vpon Saint Steuens day decrie the value of base siluer moneys, and after did altogether forbid the vse of them, and shortly after comman∣ded sterling money to be coyned, so called of the Easterlings, who first coyned siluer money of that Standard, which is of eleuen ounces two penny weight.

Thirdly, that the English pound, as well of gold as siluer (meaning the pound of the Ballence, not the pound of twentie shillings commonly spent) containes twelue oun∣ces Troy weight. And that each ounce of siluer is worth fiue shillings of the currant money, and each ounce of Angel gold is worth three pound fiue shillings (or sixtie fiue shillings) of Queene Elizabeths siluer money, and each ounce of Crowne gold is worth three pound (or sixtie shillings) of the same coyne.

Fourthly, that the Mint-Master gaue account before the Queenes Examiners for the money they coyned, as well by the tale (or number of the pieces) as by the sheere: for it being not possible to coyne moneys of the iust prescribed weight, yet the Mint-master was held to haue performed his contract with the Queen for the standard pre∣scribed by her, so the siluer were not more then 2 penny weight in the ounce heauier or lighter, then her standard prescribed: and in like sort for the coyning of gold, a cer∣taine proportion of some eight graines in the ounce, was allowed to the Mint-Master in this account by the sheere.

Fiftly, that 20 penny weight makes an ounce, and 24 graines make a penny weight.

Now I returne to the discourse in hand. Queene Elizabeth in the yeere 1600, con∣tracted with the Mint-Master, that of gold of the standard of twenty three caracts three graines and a halfe, he should coyne pieces of Angels, halfe Angels, fourth parts of Angels, pieces of an Angel and a half, & of 3 Angels. Now this Angel was of three penny weight and 8 graines, and this gold was commonly called Angel gold Also she

contracted with him, that of gold of the Standard of twentie two caracts, he should coynepieces of twentie shillings, and pieces of tenne shillings, and pieces of fiue shil∣lings; and the piece of tenne shillings was three penny weight fifteene graines. And this gold called Crowne gold, was almost two caracts baser then the former, and two caracts after the rate of this standard, are worth fiue shillings of Queene Elizabeths sil∣uer. Lastly, she contracted with him, that of siluer of the standard of eleuen ounces two penny weight, he should coyne shillings, halfe shillings, fourth parts of shillings, and pieces of two pence, and of one penny, and of halfe pence. And the shilling was foure penny (or ninety sixe graines) waight. The same Queene not long be∣fore her death, reduced her siluer to the Standerd of eleuen ounces, which was two-penny weight baser then the former in each ounce, and the Mint Office was said to haue gained thereby one halfepenny in each ounce, or about fiue in the hundreth.

King Iames in the yeere 1604 published a Proclamation, whereby new pieces of gold were to be coyned, of a standard vniforme to the standards of other Nations: for it appeares by the Proclamation, that the gold coynes of England, were not of a iust proportion betweene gold and siluer, according to the proportion vsed by all Nati∣ons, so as the English coynes of gold, being giuen in England for lesse, then indeed they were worth, it came to passe, that they were transported into forraine parts, where they were esteemed at higher rate; which mischiefe his Maiestie desired to take away by this vniforme standard, published in the same Proclamation; for the better vnderstan∣ding whereof, this following Table was ioyned to the same.

It is to be remembred, that the pound weight English, being twelue ounces Troy, doth ouer-poix the pound weight of Scotland foure penny weight, and mine graines ENglish: Whereupon this Table is made to distin∣guish euery seuerall pieces of Gold and Siluer Coyne, according to the true weight of both Nations.

English Weight.

B.

	Pennyweight 20.	Graines 24.	Mites 20.	Droits 24.	Periots 20.	Blancks 24.
Pieces of Gold. of	xx.s.	06	10	16	18	10		Of these 37.li.4.w. make a pound weight Troy.
x.s.	03	05	08	09	05
v.s.	01	14	14	04	12	12
iiij.s.	01	06	09	08	10
ij.s. vj d.	00	19	07	02	06	06
Pieces of Siluer of	v.s.	19	08	10	08			Of these 3. li. 2.s. make a pound weight Troy.
ij.s. vj.d.	09	16	05	04
xij.d.	03	20	18	01	10
vj.d.	01	22	09	00	15
ij.d.	00	15	09	16	05
j.d.	00	07	14	20	02	12
ob.	00	03	17	10	01	06

Scottish Weights,

C.

	Deniers 24.	Graines 24.	Primes 24.	Seconds 24.	Thirds 24.	Fourths 24
Pieces of Gold of	xx.s.	07	21	07	01	09	19		A Of these 36.li. 10.3.d.q. make 12. oz. Scot∣tish. Or 48 li. 3.s. 8.d.
x.s.	03	22	15	12	16	21	½
v.s.	01	23	07	18	08	10	¼
iiij.s.	01	13	20	14	16	08	¾
ij.s.vj.d.	00	23	15	27	04	05
Pieces of Siluer of	v.s.	23	15	22	05	00	13	B Of these 3.li. 10.d.q. or 4.li. 1.s. 1.d.ob.di.q.di di.q.
ij s vj.d.	11	19	22	14	12	06	••/••
xii.d	04	17	13	20	0••
vi.d.	02	08	18	22	00	12
ii d.	00	18	22	07	08	04
i d.	00	09	11	03	16	02
ob.	00	04	17	13	20	01

King Iames in the yeere 1609, contracted with the Mint-Master, that of gold of the Standard 〈◊〉〈◊〉 three and twentie caracts, three graines and a halfe, he should coyne pie∣ces of thirty shillings, called Rose Ryals; pieces of fifteene shillings, called Spur Ry∣als. And the foresaid Rose Ryall was nine penny weight and fiue graines. Also he contracted with him, that of gold of the Standard of two and twentie caracts, hee should coyne pieces of twentie shillings called Vnites; pieces of ten shillings, called double Crownes, pieces of fiue shillings, called Brittan Crownes, pieces of 4 shillings, called Thistle crownes, and pieces of 2 shillings 6 pence, called halfe Brittan crownes; and lastly, that all these pieces should bee proportioned to the foresaid Table. But the first Standard of this yeere 1609 was lighter then the Standard of the yeere 1600 by ten pence in each Angell, and the second standard of the yeere 1609, was lighter in like proportion, then the second standard of the yeere 1600. Moreouer, the Goldsmiths of this time said that of old a wedge of gold (or any gold vncoined) being brought into the Mint, was coyned there for six siluer shillings in each pound of gold, whereas at this time the Mint exacted thirtie siluer shillings for the same, whereupon the Merchants carried their wedges for the most part into Flaunders to be coyned, and few of them being brought into England, the Goldsmiths could not procure any of them for the exercise of their trade, but were forced to melt coined gold and siluer for that purpose. In the same yeere 1609, the King contracted with the Mint-master, that of siluer of the standard of 11 ounces, he should coyne diuers pieces aboue mentioned in the former Table, according to the rule therein prescribed. To conclude, Caesar in his Commentaries, mentions brasse coynes of the Brittans, but the Kings of England haue now for many ages, cast out of England all vse of brasse or copper moneys, vsing none but coynes of gold and siluer, and that of a pure allay. * 10.1

King Iames in like sort as he did for the English coyne, did also ioyne to his fore∣said Proclamation the foresaid Table of the Scottish weights, whereby the correspon∣dencie of the Scottish money to the English, and the iust value, weight and purenesse thereof may be distinguished; to which end I haue also formerly ioyned those tables.

The Scots also coyne a siluer money of 13 pence halfe penny, and another piece of halfe the same value, and both these pieces of money are of the same purenes & value with the English siluer. And the Scots of old called 20 English pence, a pound, as wee in England call 20 siluer shillings a pound. And in like sort thirteene pence halfe pen∣ny English, was by the Scots called a Marke, as in England thirteene shillings foure pence is so called. Also the Scots haue of long time had small brasse coynes, which they say of late are taken away, namely, Bahees, esteemed by them of old for 6 pence, wherof 2 make an English peny; also Placks, which they esteemed for 4 pence, but 3 of them make an English penny; also Hard-heads, esteemed by them at one penny halfe∣penny, whereof eight make an English penny.

The Irish Histories report, that a Bishop, Iustice of Ireland vnder Iohn King of Eng∣land, * 10.2 did coyne moneys in Ireland, of the same purenes and weight with the English. And the Irish had a Mint-house at the beginning of Queene Elizabeths raigne. But in our memory the Irish haue not enioyed any priuiledge of coyning moneys, but haue continually receiued them from the Mint of England. And for the most part of Queene Elizabeths Raigne, they had the same coyne with the English, saue that the Irish shil∣lings were stamped with a Harpe, the Armes of the Kingdome, and being called Har∣pers, were only worth 9 pence English. But ciuill warre hauing set all Ireland in a com∣bustion, the same Queene more easily to subdue the rebels, did take siluer coyne from the Irish, some few yeers before her death, & paid her Army with a mixed base coyne, which by Proclamation was commanded to bee spent and receiued for sterling siluer mony (for no pieces of gold were at any time expressely coyned for the Irish. And this base mixed money had 3 parts of copper and the fourth part of siluer, which propor∣tion of siluer was in some part consumed by the mixture, so as the English Goldsmiths valued a shilling thereof at no more then 2 siluer pence, though they acknowledged the same to be worth 2 pence halfe penny. At last the ciuill warre being appeased im∣mediately before the Queenes death, King Iames her successor in the yeere 1605 took away this mixed coine, & restored their old siluer harpers to the Irish. Moreouer in the

happy beginning of King Iames his Raigne, the Irish had the vnder written old coynes, which Sir George Carey Knight, at that time Lord Deputie, and yet continuing Treasurer at wars for that Kingdome, did so gather vp, as at this day none of them are to be found. These coynes were thus called; First, they had siluer groats, called broad faced groates, which of old were coyned for foure pence, though some of them were now worth eight pence. Also they had siluer groats, called crosse-keele groats, stamped with the Popes tripple Crowne, likewise coined for foure pence, but being of more va∣lue. And these groats were either sent hither of old by the Popes, or for the honour of them had this stampe set vpon them. Lastly, they had siluer groats of like value, cal∣led Dominus groats, of the Kings of England, then called Domini (that is, Lords) of Ire∣land. Also they had Rex groats, so called of the Kings of England, after they had the stile of Kings of Ireland, which were coyned for foure pence, but by the mixture of copper were onely worth two pence. Also they had white groats, which were coy∣ned for foure pence, but of such base allay, as nine of them were giuen for an English shilling. They had little brasse pence, and pence of a second kinde, called Harpers, being as big as an English shilling. They had also brasse farthings, called smulkins, whereof foure made a penny. Lastly, there were lately found brasse coynes by plow∣ing vp the earth, whose stampe shewed, that the Bishops of Ireland had of old the pri∣uiledge of coyning. And of all these moneys aforesaid, some were coyned at London, some at the Mint at Yorke, and some at the Mint at Bristow in England.

Being to write of the diuers moneys of Germany, I thinke fit first to set downe some * 10.3 Lawes of the Empire about coyning of moneys. In the Diet (or Parliament) at Augs∣burg in the yeere 1551. it was decreed by the Emperour, together with the Electors, Princes, States, the Counsellors of those that were absent, the Ambassadours, and Sub∣stitutes; that in the greater pieces of coynes to that piece included, which is worth six creitzers, the Mint-masters, of a marke of Colen pure siluer, should make eight gold guldens and a halfe, with halfe a creitzer (the gold gulden being esteemed at seuentie creitzers) making in siluer ten guldens, twelue creitzers and a halfe, (the siluer gulden being esteemed at sixtie creitzers.) And that hereafter in the sacred Empire, the vnder written pieces of moneys should be coyned; namely, the great siluer piece, and two halfes of the same, answering in value to a gold gulden. Also pieces of twenty creitzers, twelue, ten, sixe, three, and one. Also that the States, according to the conditions of their Countreys, should coyne for common vse certaine pieces of small moneys, with pence and halfe pence. That the Rhenish guldens of the Electors, and the guldens answerable to them, should be worth seuentie two creitzers. And that all dollers be∣ing worth sixty six creitzers (and so half dollers) should be admitted by the Counsel∣lers, but for the rest, that they should certifie the Emperor the true value of each, to the end he might prescribe how each coyne, according to the value made by them, should be receiued and spent or prohibited. And left the Empire should by fraudes suffer losse, in the carrying out of vncoyned siluer, and bringing in of forraine moneys, it was in the means time decreed, that no man should carry out of the Empire any vn∣coyned siluer, and that those who had the Regall priuiledge of coyning, should not fell the same to any other, but vseit themselues, with this condition, that hereafter, of a siluer marke of Colen weight, they should make ten siluer guldens, with twelue creit∣zers and a halfe (the gulden being esteemed at sixtie creitzers), so as in that summe there should be found a siluer Marke of the said weight, excepting alwaies the charges of coyning for the smaller pieces of moneys. And this to bee done vpon penaltie of losing that priuiledge. Moreouer, it was decreed, that vpon paine of burning, all men should abstaine from clipping, and washing of coynes, or any abasing of them with like fraudes. Lastly, it was decreed, that the States hauing the priuiledge of coy∣ning, should not hereafter, vpon penaltie, bring any dollers, guldens, groshes, or halfe, or fourth parts of groshes to the mint, excepting those who had mines of their owne, who were not sorbidden to coyne as much gold and siluer as they had in their owne mines, so they coyned according to the foresaid decree; and that no other should coine any other gold, then according to the value and weight vsed by the Emperor, and the

Princes of the Empire vpon the Rheine. In the Dieta at Spyre, in the yeere 1557, it was decreed, that hereafter the stipends should be increased to the Assessors of the Impe∣riall Chamber, so as a Gulden hauing beene giuen hitherto for 16. Batzen, or sixty foure Creitzers, should hereafter be paied from the Callends of Aprill, in the yeere 1558, for seuenty seuen Creitzers.

Likewise in the Dieta at Augsburg, in the yeer 1558, it was decreed, that the following stipends should be paid to the Iudge and Assessors of that chamber. Namely, that the Iudge, being an Earle, or Baron, should haue 2000. guldens, and if he were a Prince, his stipend should be increased. That an Assessor being an Earle or Lord, should haue seuen hundred guldens, a Doctor licentiate, or a gentleman, should haue fiue hundred Guldens, an Aduocate in Exchequer causes, should haue three hundred guldens, each Gulden being esteemed at sixteene batzen, till agreement were made for equall mony in the Empire. The Princes and diuers States, and free Cities, haue from old times by the gifts of Emperours, the priuiledges of coyning. The Electors and Princes of Au∣stria, doe stampe their Coynes vpon one side with their owne Image, hauing the im∣periall apple ouer their heads, and vpon the other side with their owne armes: but the Coynes of other Princes and free Cities, are stamped with the Imperiall Eagle. The Coynes that are not of iust value, are prohibited by Imperiall Edicts, but the greatest gaine which the Princes and Cities make by their Priuiledge, is by the coyning of smal brasse peeces, which peeces are not of any value out of the Territory where they are coyned, and cannot be spent vpon the confines without losse. As these priuiledges of Coyning are deriued from the Emperours, so were they subiect to the Emperours ceusure, while their power was yet vnbroken. For I find these words, vnder the Em∣perours name, in the abstract of the Imperiall lawes, (vulgarly called Keichs Abscheydt.) Let euery one which hath the priuiledge of coyning, send their Counsellers to me at Nurnberg, &c. In the meane time let coyning cease in all places, vpon penalty of lo∣sing that priuiledge. In the same Booke by an imperiall Edict, with the consent of the Princes and States, in the yeere 1559, the weights and stampes of all Coynes are prescribed, and it is decreed, that none should coyne more small moneys then for the necessity of their Subiects, and that these moneys increasing, they should presently be forbidden to coyne any more. By like Edicts diuers Coynes are either decried for the value, or altogether taken away, and the bringing in of forraine moneys, and tran∣sporting the Coynes of Germany, are for the time forbidden. Otherwise each Prince may conuert forraine moneys into the Coynes of Germany for the vse of his subiects. The transporting of vncoyned Gold or Siluer into the Low-Countreys is there forbid∣den for the time. Great punishments are decreed therein, to be inflicted on those, that vse frauds to abase the Coynes. Likewise it is decreed, that Gold-smiths should not vse any coyned moneys in the exercise of their Art, except vncoyned wedges were not to be had, in which case they are restrained to melt no more covne then necessity requires. Lastly, therein decrees are made, that for the time none should sell or lay to gage their priuiledge of coyning, and that hereafter like priuiledge should not be gran∣ted to any, without being subiect to the prescribed lawes, and that a siluer marke should be worth foureteene halfe ounces, (which weight the Germans call Loth, being halfe an ounce); and that Gold-smyths offending herein, should be punished, accor∣ding to the quality of the fraud.

Now I will set downe the diuers moneys of Germany, with the seuerall values of them. And first I will forewarne the Reader, that most reckonings of Germany are made by common siluer guldens, yet is there no such coyne in the Empire; and these Guldens are esteemed at fifteene batzen in Germany, neere the value of three shillings foure pence English. Also that in reckoning of payments, the Germans vse to make them by markes of Colen and Lubecke, yet is there no such money at all coyned. Now I returne to the purpose. The Gold Rhenish Guldens of Germany, are almost of the same standard with the Crowne Gold of England: but the difference of the value shall * 10.4 hereafter appeare. The Gold Ducket of Hungary, is of the purest gold of twenty foure Caracts, and it is two penny weight and sixe graines, (for I will apply all values to the

English Coynes); and in England they are worth seuen shillings and two pence. The siluer Doller of the Empire (called Reichs Doller) is of the standard of ten ounces or thereabouts, and is eighteene penny weight sixteene graines. And at this time in Eng∣land a Doller is worth foure shillings and fiue pence, which of late, before the reducing of our money, was giuen for foure shillings foure pence. The Phillips Doller, is of the standard of nine ounces ten penny weight, and it is an ounce halfe quarter weight, & at this time in England it was worth foure shillings ten pence.

At Stoade, Hamburg, and Lubecke, the Gold Rhenish Gulden was worth eight and * 10.5 twenty siluer Misen Grosh, and a halfe, and a fourth part of a Grosh. And the Imperiall Doller was worth foure and twenty Grosh. The same Rhenish gold Gulden, was worth sixe and thirty Lubecke shillings and a halfe, and the Imperiall Doller was worth three and thirty Lubecke shillings, though in all reckonings it were accounted but two and thirty shillings. A common siluer Gulden was worth eight and twenty Lubecke shillings. A French Crowne of Gold was worth foure and forty. An Eng∣lish Angell of Gold was worth two Dollers, with the fourth part of a Doller and two Lubecke shillings, (or otherwise it was worth twelue Flemmish Shillings, and foure Lubecke shillings). Seuen Lubecke shillings and a halfe, made an English Shilling sterling, and sixe Lubecke shillings made a Flemmish Shilling, and likewise a shilling of Hamburg. The Hamburgers coyned a peece of Gold called a Portegue, which was worth foure-pounds and eight shillings of Hamburg, or three and thirty Markes of Lubecke, (a Marke being esteemed for two shillings eight pence of Hamburg). At Stoade the siluer shilling of England was worth seuen stiuers, and the Groates of Eng∣land, being of the same standard, yet were currant for two stiuers and a halfe, because seuen stiuers in that money could not be diuided into three equal parts. Whereupon it fell out, that he who bought any thing for an Hamburg penny, if he paied three English groats, had an English shilling giuen him backe, and so had the thing bought for nothing. At Emden vpon the confines of the Empire and the Low-Countreys, a * 10.6 siluer Gulden of Emden was worth twenty stiuers, an Imperiall Doller fiue and forty (which since that time is worth seuen and forty) a Doller of Emden was worth thirty stiuers, (for Princes and Cities coyne gold and siluer Guldens, which often in their value differ from the Imperiall, as likewise Dollers In specie, (that is, kind) differ in va∣lue from Dollers, as they are esteemed in contracts), a French crowne was worth three Flemmish Guldens and sixe stiuers. Now sixe stiuers (as also sixe Lubecke shillings) make one Flemmish shilling. At Breme and Oldenburg, they haue these small moneys * 10.7 currant, namely, Groates, and peeces (of the stampe) called Copstucks, and a Doller was there worth foure copstucks and a halfe, ot fiue and fifty Groats. A French crown was worth six Copstucks, and one Copstucke was worth ten stiuers, or twelue groats or there abouts. A Groat was worth little more then an English penny. A Sesling was worth halfe a Lubecke shilling, and they haue also halfe Seslings in these parts. At Brunswicke a Doller was worth six and thirty Maria Grosh, which are of equall value with foure and twenty siluer Misen Grosh, and also nine Maria Grosh; make eight * 10.8 Lubecke shillings. The same Doller was worth eighteene spitz-groshen, whereof each was worth two Maria Groshen. Here also I changed sixe Dollers into fiue Rhenish Gold Guldens and nine Grosh. At Magdeburg, Leipzag, Misen, and in all the Electorate of Saxony, and in the Neighbour Territories, to the confines of Bohemia, a Doller was * 10.9 worth soure and twenty siluer Groshen, which are as much worth as eighteene spitz∣groshen, or as sixe and thirty Maria Groshen. A Rhenish Gold Gulden was worth seuen and twenty siluer Groshen, and the siluer Phillips Doller, was of the same value. A common siluer Gulden was esteemed at one and twenty siluer Groshen, a French Crowne at three and thirty, a Spanish pistolet at two and thirty, an halfe Milreise at sixe and thirty, the short and long Crusado, at fiue and thirty, the Hungarian Ducket at thirty siluer Groshen. The Rose Noble was esteemed at three Dollers and a halfe, the English Angell at two Dollers, and little more then an Ort, or fourth part of a Doller. And the siluer Grosh is worth more then two pence, lesse then 2. halfe∣penny English. And for the small Coynes, a Grosh was worth foure drier, & one drier

was worth two Dreyhellers, and one Dreyheller was worth a pfenning and a halfe, and twelue pfenning made a Grosh, and two schwerdgroshen made one schneberger. In generall, through all the vpper parts of Germany, a doller was esteemed at eighteene * 10.10 batzen, a siluer Gulden at fifteene, a Phillips doller at twenty, a Rhenish Gold Gulden at twenty, a French Crowne at foure and twenty and a halfe, a Gold Crowne of Italy was esteemed at Heidelberg and at Strassburg at foure and twenty batzen, at Augsburg a siluer Italian Crowne at two and twenty batzen and a halfe. And the siluer Grosh of Misen being carried out, & currant in all Germany, a Rhenish gold Gulden through higher Germany was worth seuen and twenty siluer Misen Grosh, a siluer Gulden there (as in Saxony) was esteemed at one and twenty Grosh. The Batz is worth three Eng∣lish pence, and foure Creitzers make a Batz, foure pfenning make a Creitzer, and three Creitzers make a Zweluer, and twenty zweluers make fifteen batzen, which is a com∣mon siluer Gulden.

More particularly know, that in all Princes Territories, new and diuers small mo∣neys are found. At Nurnberg eight pfund (that is, Pounds) with twelue pfenning, make a siluer Gulden, thirty pfenning make one pfund, two haller make one pfenning, fiue pfening make one finfer, seuen pfening make a Maria Grosh, thirty six Maria Grosh make a siluer gulden. In Austria two haller make one pfening, foure pfening one creit∣zer, seuen Creitzers and a halfe make a shilling, eight shillings make a siluer Gulden. At Augsburg seuen haller make one creitzer, eight pfening make one Bemish, three creitzers make one plappart, twenty plappart (as also sixe and twenty Bemish with 2 pfening) make a siluer Gulden. In Franconia, six pfening (whereof twelue make nine pfening of Misen) make one gnack. In Sueuia and Bauaria towards the Rheine, three Creitzers make one shilling, or one plappart, and twenty plappart make a siluer gul∣den. At Lindaw, and from thence to Costnetz, three pfening of Costnetz make one creitzer, twelue pfening make a batzen, and there be also halfe batzen. From thence to Basil, these moneys are spent before named. At Strasburg and Spira, foure pfening of the Phaltz, (that is, Palatinate) make one Creitzer, and at Heydelberg, and so to Francfort, two Strasburg pfening, make one Creitzer. At Francfort seuen and twenty weispfening make a siluer Gulden, and eight haller make a weispfening. At Wien (that is, Vienna) and vpon the confines of Hungary, foure pfening make a creitzer, thirty pfe∣ning (or seuen creitzers and a halfe,) make a shilling, and one shilling makes a pfund (or pound).

Alwaies let the Reader vnderstand, that the value of these moneyes is subiect to change in diuers Prouinces, and more at diuers times. And let him know, that an Im∣periall * 10.11 Doller is now in Germany worth nineteene batzen, which at my being there was giuen for eighteene batzen; and that a Phillips doller is now worth twenty two batzen, which then was giuen for twenty, and that a Rhenish Gold Gulden is now worth three and twenty batzen, which then was giuen for twenty. Likewise that in the Territory of the Elector of Saxony, a doller is now worth sixe and twenty Misen Grosh and a halfe, which then was giuen for foure and twenty. Also that the great Coynes of Germany, are now worth more in England, then they were at that time, in respect of our siluer somewhat debased. And if any obiect, that our English coynes of siluer are now worth more in the Low-Countreys, then they were at that time when they were more pure, let him know, that all great Coynes, as well of siluer as Gold, as well forraine as domesticall, haue since that time beene increased in value in the Low Countreys; yet he that will change an English Angell into dollers, or great siluer Coynes in the Low-Countreys, shall gaine no more at this time then formerly, since now they esteeme a doller at seuen shillings sixe pence, which formerly was giuen for fiue shillings foure pence, and all the gayne which this raising of the Coynes seemes to promise a passenger, is by changing his great Coynes into stiuers and small brasse moneys, which being of none or small value in themselues, are despi∣sed by Merchants, who are to receiue great summes. But I will referre the change of the value of Coynes in the Low-Countries, to the proper place, and returne to the va∣lue of Coynes, increased in Germany: Wherein no man is to wonder, that the great

Coynes still remaining of the old standard, yet are giuen for more of their owne small moneys, then formerly they were, since diuers reasons therof may be readily brought. Either for that the Merchants, being to receiue great summes, desire rather with losse to receiue great Coynes, then with gaine to receiue the base, and brasse Coynes. Or perhaps for that the small Coynes are now either more abased, or altogether made of brasse: And most of all, for that forraine Merchants doe more carry out the moneys of Germany for their wares, then any natiue commodities thereof, so as the increased value of Coynes in Germany, turnes onely to the losse of strangers, and to the gaine of the Empire.

Bohemia now long subiect to the Family of Austria, hauing long held the dignity of * 10.12 Emperours, doth admit all the great Coynes of Germany, in the same value as the Ger∣mans held them. And as well the Bohemians, as the Hungarians, in the yeere 1551 gaue consent, that thenceforward their moneys should be made agreeable to those of the Empire, in weight, matter, and value. Touching the small moneys in Bohemia, and vpon the confines of Hungary and Poland, I remember that three potschandels or po∣chanels made one creitzer, and nine creitzers with a pochanell made foure weissgrosh, and that thirty Grosh of Morauia (or weissgrosh) made a doller. And that in Bohemia they had a kind of Grosh, which answered in value to the Grosh of Polonia. Lastly, that Merchants reckoned two hallers for a pfenning, and six pfenning for a grosh, and sixty grosh for a shocke, and forty grosh for a marke.

The Common-wealth of the Sweitzers consisting of diuers Cities and Villages, * 10.13 and Territories, doth also admit diuers moneys. The priuiledge of Coyning is gran∣ted in common to Zurech, Basil, and Schaphusen, and each of these Cities hath his pecu∣liar mynt, with Officers to ouersee that the moneys stamped with the markes of the Cities, be of iust weight, and due mixture: but each of these Cities hath their peculiar moneys. They of Basil, with the Neighbour townes of Alsetz, doe coyne a peece of money, which of a Crow stamped vpon it, is called Reppen Múntz, whereof fiue and twenty pound Troy weight, (called in Latin, Assis) make a common gold gulden, estee∣med at sixty creitzers. They of Schaphusen, doe coyne money of the same mixture and value, together with the vsuall money of the Empire. They of Zurech coyne dollers and halfe dollers, after the value of those in the Empire; but they haue a lesse money of their owne, whereof forty pounds Troy weight, (called in Latin Assis) make a com∣mon gold Gulden. They also coyne Batzen, whereof sixteene make a gold Gulden. More particularly to explane the value of these moneys: Six Rappen of Basil, make a plappart or three creitzers, and twenty piappart or sixty creitzers, make a common Gulden. And as I formerly said in the discourse of German moneys, from Lindaw to Costnetz, three pfenning of Costnetz make a Creitzer. Now I adde that the money of Schaphusen and Costnetz is spent to the confines of Schaphusen, and the money of Basil is spent from thence to Basil. At Zurech sixe pfenning make a shilling, (worth a penny English), and three pfenning make a Sicherling. Two great finfers of Basil, and one lit∣tle finferlin, make a batz of Basil, and in like sort fiue finferlin make a batz, and fiue fin∣fers make two batzen, and these moneys are spent to Strassburg, and so to Spire in Ger∣many. Bern, Frtburg, and Solothurn, haue a peculiar money, whereof two and forty pounds Troy weight (in Latin Assis) and twice foure ounces (in Latin Trientes) make a gold Gulden. Besides they (and especially those of Solethurn in great quantity) coyne a peece of mony, which the Sweitzers call Dickenpfenning, & the French call Testoome, but it is lesse worth by the tenth part then the Testoone of France. Those of Bern did first coyne Batzen, so called of a Beare, the Armes of the City, (for the words Baren, and also batzen, signifie Beares in the Sweitzers tongue), and the Cities of Sueuia, imi∣tating them, drew the same money and word into Germany. At Bern sixteene batzen are esteemed for a rhenish gold Gulden. The money of Lucerna, is like to that of Basil, but onely sixe ounces Troy weight more base, and fifty of these moneys make a Rhenish gold Gulden. As the French gold is spent with gaine in Sweitzerland, so in all places vpon these confines of France, the French siluer Coynes called Francks are common∣ly spent. In the Cantons dwelling scattered in Villages, (namely, the Sweitz, those of

Vnderuald, the Tugians, those of Glarona, and Abbatiscella), a pound is a doller. In Rhaetia (or the Grisons) the Bishop and the Citizens of Chur coyne money, and the Abbot of Disent hath an old priuiledge of coyning. And here sixty creitzers make a common gulden, foure Angster make a Creitzer, and twelue Angster make a Behmisch. But in this Prouince confining vpon the State of Venice, the Lires or Berlingots, and the gagets of Venice, are vulgarly spent, and I remember that when I came out of the state of Venice into this Prouince, I spent Crownes of Italy; and I find in my notes, that at Lasagna I changed a siluer crowne for eight and twenty batzen: but since seuen bat∣zen of Germany make two lires of Venice, and a gold crowne of Italy, is there giuen for eightlires; I thinke that either it was a gold crowne that I changed, or that the batzen of this Prouince are of lesse value then those of Germany. For a gold crowne of Italy, and the French crowne are both of a value, and I said before, that at Strassburg I chan∣ged each of these Crownes for foure and twenty batzen: yet to the contrary I find, that passing forward in this Territory of the Grisons, I exchanged at Lanzi a siluer crowne of Italy for seuen and twenty batzen, and that three batzen were there estee∣med at foureteene creitzers, which in Germany are onely worth twelue creitzers. So as I am doubtfull, and cannot determine the value of the Italian coynes, in the small mo∣neys of the Grisons.

In the foresaid Imperiall Dieta (or Parliament) held at Augsburg, in the yeere 1551. * 10.14 these words are added to the Imperiall Edict. We wil that this our Edict shall be pro∣pounded to our Hereditary States of the Low-Countreys, and we will take care that they apply themselues thereunto, as much as they possibly can. The States of the Low-Countreys, coyne diuers peeces of gold, as Archiducall Angels and Crownes. And the Angell is of the standard of twenty two Caracts, and of three penny weight seuen graines. Also they coyne gold Lyons, called Riders, whereof each is worth foure Flemmish Guldens and a halfe. The Noble of Gant, is of the same standard with the French Crowne, and in England it is worth thirteene shillings foure pence. They spend commonly Phillips dollers, the value whereof I haue set downe with the mo∣neys of Germany. To conclude, they coyne any peece, of which they can make gayne, yea, the Merchants report, that they coyne the great moneys of Spaine, England, and all Dominions, stamped with the same Image and Armes, and for such vtter the same in their trafficke with the Indians. But they coyne little gold or siluer of their owne, hauing a singular Art to draw all forraine coynes when they want them, by rai∣sing the value, and in like sort to put them away, when they haue got abundance ther∣of, by decrying the value. And when their Exchequer aboundeth with any money, & they are to pay their Army, then they increase the value thereof; but hauing aboun∣dance of the same coyne, and being to receiue their reuenues, then they decry the va∣lue thereof. And while they thus raise the value of forraine great coynes, in their small moneys, it fals out, that they haue plenty of gold and siluer, with the onely losse of base stiuers and brasse moneys. And indeed, as well the art, as industry of this Nation, hath in our age become wonderfull to all other Nations. For they haue no woods, yet by the commodity of their riuers and ditches, they are become terrible to their ene∣mies in the strength of their Nauy. They haue not corne to suffice their owne wants, yet by fetching it from other parts, they relieue therewith all Nations that want corne. Of late, when they had no skill in trafficke, the Italians trading at Antwerp, did rashly take their children to write their letters, and be their cashiers, and they too late com∣plaine, that when these children grew to age, they did not onely take all forraine traf∣ficke from them, and send them backe into Italy, but also followed them thither, and liuing dispersed through all the Cities of Italy, and spending at a low rate, did also draw all that trafficke to themselues. In like sort they haue no mines of gold and siluer, yet by their singular wit, and rare industry, doe abound both with gold and slluer. To conclude, as they are most practicall in all kinds of businesse, so are they most subtile in the art of the mynt, and money matters. But I will returne to the moneys of the Low-Countreys. At this day the English Angell being esteemed at fiue Flemmish guldens and two blancks, two English Angels (or twenty shillings) are there worth soure and

thirtie Flemish shillings, wanting 2 stiuers, and a hundreth pounds Flemish make sixty English pounds sterling. Two English shillings are three shillings foure pence. Fle∣mish, and make a Flemish siluer gulden, twentie Flemish shillings make a Flemish pound, twentie stiuers make a Flemish gulden, sixe stiuers make a Flemish shilling, two blancks make one Flemish stiuer and a halfe, foure orkees (or doights) of brasse make a Flemish stiuer. A French crowne was giuen for three Flemish guldens, and foure stiuers. (but in Holland onely three stiuers, and in some places but two stiuers more then three guldens.) An Imperiall doller was giuen for fortie fiue stiuers, a Spanish pistolet for three flemish guldens, and two or three stiuers, a gold Rhenish gulden for two Flemish guldens and nine stiuers, and a Phillips doller of siluer for two Flemish guldens and eight stiuers, or very little more.

The marke of Denmarke was esteemed at 16 Lubock shillings, and two shillings * 10.15 of Denmark made one Lubeck shilling, and thirtie three Lubeck shillings were giuen for an Imperiall Doller, yer two and thirtie of Lubect, or sixtie foure shillings of Den∣mark made a common Doller in contracts. The gold of England was commonly spent in Denmark, and they esteemed an English Angell at two Dollers, and little more then the fourth part of a Doller; and they esteemed the English Rose Noble of that time at three Dollers and a halfe (which coyne they had almost drawne altogether into Denmark, by the exacting the same for the tributes of ship-masts, and other Merchan∣dizes, passing the narrow straight of their Sea.

The Polonians coyne gold Duckets of the same value with the Hungarian Duckets * 10.16 (whereof I haue spoken among the moneys of Germany), and these Duckets at this day are giuen for seuenty Polish grosh, which of late were worth no more then sixtie fiue. Venceslaus King of Bohemia was crowned King of Poland about the yeere 1300, who first brought siluer money into Poland, namely, Bohemian groshen (I meane those of siluer, not the white grosh), which to this day are currant in Crakaw, and those parts. For before that time the Polonians did traffick with little pieces of vn∣coined siluer, and with exchange of skins and other commodities. At this day the Po∣lonians, aswell as the Germans, make all contracts by siluer guldens, but haue no such coyne stamped. Thirty Polish grosh make a siluer gulden, and a doller at this day is worth fortie Polish grosh, at the least, which not long since was worth no more then thirtie fiue grosh, but to this day in contracts thirtie sixe Polish grosh make a doller, howsoeuer a doller in specie (that is, in kinde) be worth fortie grosh at the least. Three Pochanels make a Creitzer, and seuen pochanels make a Polish and Bohemian gro∣shen of siluer. At Danske in Prussia (of old a Prouince of Germany, but lately annexed to the Crowne of Poland) they coyne Hungarian dukets of gold (as they doe in Po∣land), and they haue two coynes of gold, called Milreis, and halfe Milreis. And I re∣ceiued of a Merchant there, each Hungarian ducket, and each halfe milreis, for a dol∣ler and a halfe with one sesling, and each milreis for three dollers and two seslings. And thirtie sixe Polish grosh did there make a doller. But I remember, that I did there change an Hungarian ducket for fiftie sixe Polonian grosh, which value passeth the former about a grosh and a halfe. For a sesling 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Hamburg makes a Danish shilling, and that is little more worth then a halfe Polish grosh. The Muscouites Empire lyes vpon this Prouince, and therefore I will adde a word of their coynes. They make all contracts by a money called Rubble, which is altogether imaginarie, for they haue no such coyne, and it is esteemed in England at thirteene shillings foure pence sterling, and in the Muscouites money, it is rated at thirtie three altines and two Diagoes. And sixe single or three double diagoes make one altine.

The Italian Crowne of gold, and the Spanish pistolet, and double pistolet (being * 10.17 there current), are of the same standard, allay, and value, with the after mentioned French Crowne, saue that the double pistolet containes two French Crownes. The Venetian zecchine is of the same standard, finenesse, and value as the Hungarian duc∣ket, aboue mentioned in the moneys of Germany. The Popes giulij of siluer, and so likewise the poali, are of the same standard finenesse and value with the English sixe pence, but the lire of Venice being worth about nine pence English, is of a little baser

standard. The Spanish coynes of siluer are currant in Italy, and they are called Pezzi d'otto, pieces or rials of eight, and they be of the standard of 11 ounces and two penny weight, and are three quarters of an ounce and a halfe weight, and in England each of them is worth foure shillings foure pence half peny, this Spanish mony being two and twentie pence in each twentie shillings English, more worth then the English siluer. All Crownes of gold are currant in Italy, and all at one rate, excepting the French Crownes, which at Venice and Naples are esteemed somewhat higher then other, though in all the other Cities of Italy, it is more commodious to spend Spanish pi∣stolets or crownes, then French crownes. In generall, the Italian siluer crowne, giuen for seuen lires of Venice, is worth almost fiue shillings English, and the Italian gold crowne vulgarly called d'oro, giuen for seuen lires, and about fifteene sols of Venice, is worth almost fiue shillings sixe pence English, and the gold crowne, vulgarly called d'oro in oro del sole, giuen for eight lires, and some odde sols of Venice, is currant in Eng∣land for sixe shillings. To conclude, greater summes paid in little brasse moneys, are in Italy deliuered by weight, not by tale or number. And more particularly to ex∣plaine the values of moneys. At Venice a zechine of Venice is giuen for ten lires, and * 10.18 ten or twelue sometimes more sols. A double pistolet of Spaine, called Dublon', is there giuen for seuenteene lires. A French crowne is giuen for eight lires, and eight, or sometimes ten sols. An Italian crowne of gold is there giuen for eight lires, and some for seuen lires sixteene sols (for the weight of Venice being heauier then in other parts of Italy, the light crownes are lesse esteemed.) The Spanish piastro of siluer is giuen for sixe lires, the siluer ducket for sixe lires and foure sols, the siluer crowne for seuen lires, the iustino for two lires, the mutsenigo for a lire, and foure sols. Besides, the Vene∣tians haue siluer pieces of 4 lires, of eight soldi (or sols), and of sixe soldi, and a piece of two soldi called Gagetta, which are of a baser standard. Touching the brasse moneys, twentie soldi make a lire, two soldi or three susines make a gagetta, two betsi or three quatrines, make a soldo or marketta, and foure bagatines make a quatrine. In the Dukedome of Ferrara, the siluer crowne is spent for seuen lires of Venice, and in the * 10.19 money of the Dukedome twelue bolignei make a Venetian lire, three susines make a boligneo, and two bolignei make one amoray, seuen make one Saint Georgio, foure make one caualot, foure and a halfe make one berlingasso, nineteene make one carli, and ten bolignei make one bianco, and two brasse quatrines make a sufine, sixe make a boligneo, seuen make a gagetta of Venice. At Bologna, a siluer crowne is giuen for ten. * 10.20 poali, and a French crowne of iust weight for thirteene poali. The poalo, and the giu∣lio in other parts of Italy are both of one value, but here the giulio is giuen for sixe bo∣lignei and foure brasse quatrines, or for fortie brasse quatrines, and the poalo is giuen foreight bolignei, or for fortie eight brasse quatrines. Also hee that changeth any crowne, shal haue more gaine, if he change it into bolignei (which are good for expen∣ces there), then if he change it into poali (because the poali are currant in other parts, but the bolignei onely in the territory of Bologna.) At Pesaro, and in the Dukedome of Vrbino, a gold crowne is spent for twelue poali, and fifty two brasse quatrines make a * 10.21 poalo: but if you will change your gold crowne into brasse quatrines, which are not 〈◊〉〈◊〉 out of the Territory, you may haue 182 quatrines for the crowne, which make fifteene poali, which is a fifth part more then it is worth in siluer. At An∣cona, * 10.22 and in the Marci of Ancona, a gold crowne is giuen for eleuen poali and a half, or in the value of twelue poali, if you receiue it in brasse quatrines, and there sortie qua∣trines of brasse make a giulio, fortie three make a poalo. A siluer crowne is giuen for ten poali, and if you receiue brasse quatrines for poali, they will giue seuen baocci more, and ten baocci make a poalo. At Rome a gold crowne is sometimes giuen for eleuen poali and a halfe, somtimes for twelue, sometimes for twelue and a halfe, accor∣ding * 10.23 to the abundance and want of gold, and all gold crownes are of one value. And a siluer crowne is giuen for ten poali or giulij, and ten baocci make one giulio or poalo, and foure brasse quatrines make a baocco. Lastly, at Rome more then any other where, he that changeth crownes into quatrines, which cannot be spent out of that State, shal in appearance make great gaine: but in the Market those which sell, vse to looke into

the buyers hands, and if he haue quatrines therein, they hold the thing to be sold at a higher rate, if he bring siluer, they sell cheaper. And I remember, that the Gentlemen of Rome refusing to take quatrines for their rents, the people, when the Pope came a∣broad, falling on their knees before him, in stead of asking his blessing, did with hum∣ble cries craue a remedie for that oppression. At Naples a gold Spanish crowne, or a * 10.24 French crowne of iust weight, was giuen for thirteene carlini, an Italian gold crowne for twelue carlini and a halfe, a siluer crowne for tenne carlini, and nine carlini make eight reali, or giuli, or poali, and fiue carlini make one paraque, and fortie brasse qua∣trines make one carlino, ten quatrines make one sequin, three quatrnies one turnas, & two cauali make one quatrine. In the Dukedome of Florence, a gold crowne is giuen * 10.25 for twelue giulij (or reali, or poali, for they bee all of one value) and for halfe a giulio more. And a siluer crowne called Piastro (which is most commodious to bee carried for expences in all Italy, and especially here) was giuen for ten giulij and a halfe. Tou∣ching smaller monys, ten brasse deners make a quatrine, three brasse quatrines make a soldo, fiue quatrines make a baello (or creitzer, which is a little coyne of siluer), and eight baelli make a giulio or carlino, and fortie giulij make twentie shillings sterling English. At Genua and in Liguria, a gold crowne of iust weight (aswell Spanish, as * 10.26 French, Venetian, Florentine, Neapolitan, and that of Genoa) is giuen for foure lires and a halfe of Genoa. A siluer crowne there called ducaton, is giuen for three lires of Genoa, fifteene soldi or bolinei, and somewhat more. And a chanfron of Naples for one and thirtie soldi. Fifteene lires of Genoa make twenty shillings sterling English, twentie soldi or bolinei of Genoa make a lire of Genoa, and twelue soldi of Genoa make a lire of Venice, seuen soldi and a halfe of Genoa make a reale, foure soldi make a caua∣lotto, sixe quatrines make a soldo, or bolineo, and two deners make a quatrine. Also at Genoa they coyne a siluer piece of eight reali, which is giuen for three lires and one or two soldi. Likewise they coyne a piece of foure reali, and another of two reali. Al∣so they coyne siluer pieces, of one, two, and foure lires, and a siluer piece of ten soldi or bolinei. Lastly, they coyne brasse pieces of foure soldi, called caualotto, of one soldo or bolineo, of eight deners, of foure deners, and of one denere. In the Dukedome of Milan, a gold crowne of Italy being of iust weight, is giuen for one hundred twentie * 10.27 one soldi. A Spanish dublon of iust weight, is giuen for two hundred and sixty soldi, and more sometimes. A dublon of Milan for two hundred and fiftie soldi, a light gold crowne for one hundred and seuenteene soldi, a siluer crowne called ducaton for one hundred and fourteene soldi. And twentie soldi make a lire, two lires of Genoa make about three lires of Milan, foure brasse quatrines make a soldo, nine soldi make a bianco, ten quatrines make one parpoyolle, forty quatrines make a terso. My selfe at Milan changed a gold crowne for sixe lires and sixe soldi, and at Marignano, hiring a horse for sixe lires, and giuing a gold crowne, I receiued backe eight soldi. In Piemont, a French crowne is giuen for ten florines somewhat more, a siluer crowne for eight florines. And twelue grossi make a florine, foure quatrini make a grosso, foure soldi * 10.28 make a bianco, seuen quatrines make a soldo, sixe soldi and sixe quatrines make a flori∣no, twelue quatrini make a caualotto, and foure caualotti make a florino. Lastly, in the Dukedonie of Mantua, a zecchine of Venice is giuen for eight lires and twelue sol∣di, a gold crowne of Mantua for seuen lires, a siluer crowne for sixe lires and foure sol∣di. * 10.29 Foure trantis make a soldo, two soldi make a parpayollo, sixe soldi make a Barba∣rino, ten soldi and a halfe make a giulio, twelue soldi and a halfe make a Spanish riall, 20 soldi make a lire, 2 trantis make a susine, and 3 deners of Mantua make a trantis.

The great Turke coynes a piece of gold called Sultanon', and it is of the same stan∣dard, * 10.30 finenesse, and value with the Hungarian ducket, aboue mentioned among the moneys of Germany. In Affrick, those of Barbary haue a gold Ducat, commonly cur∣rent among Christians, which is so rare in Turkey, as I do not remember to haue seene any piece there of spent there. Neither haue the Affricans any mines of gold, but they carry salt to Ganger, and thence bring this gold. And this Barbary duckat of gold is of the standard of three and twentie caracts, and the fourth part of a graine, and three penny weight wanting two graines, and at this day in England it is giuen for

nine shillings two pence sterling, which of late was worth no more then eight shillings foure pence sterling. To conclude, the gold zechine of Venice, and the Spanish peeces of siluer, of foure and eight Reali, and the very siluer of Venice, are so commonly spent in Turkey, as the gold and siluer of Turkey seemes despised, or at least is seldome spent. But because this vast Dominion hath large circuit, it will not be amisse to name the moneys currant in diuers places. And first I forewarne the passenger, that in all places, he is in danger, who shewes his money, but most of all among the Turkes, where to be rich, is more dangerous then the greatest crime can be obiected, either in respect of the couetous Iudge in publike, or the rauinous nature of each man in priuate, neither doth any thing more prouoke the Turkes to lay snares for the vn wary passenger. So as howsoeuer it be not improuidently done, to carry summes of gold or siluer by sea, & in Barks of Christians; yet I would aduise a passenger to be wary how he shew them among Christians, and much more among Turkes, and aduise him rather to make shew, to draw his money from a little purse, hiding his greater store, then in payments to pull it out by heapes. The Greeke Iland Zante, subiect to the Venetians, hath Venice. * 10.31 money, and a gold zechine was giuen there for eleuen Lires, and two gagets.

Likewise the Greeke Iland Candia, subiect to the Venetians, hath the moneys of Ve∣nice, * 10.32 where a gold zechine was giuen for eleuen lires, and to the Turkes (landing there) at a higher rate. The siluer crowne called piastro, was there giuen for six lires, and a∣bout foure soldi. And here I found a siluer peece, which I neuer found to be spent in the State of Venice, namely, a perper, worth eight soldi, and eight baggatini of Venice.

The Greeke Iland Cyprus, subiect to the Turkes, spends the Venetian gold and sil∣uer * 10.33 lires, but receiues not the peeces of eight soldi, nor the lesser moneys of Venice, nei∣ther are the Venetian lires currant any further then this Iland, though perhaps they may be spent with some losse vpon the Coast adioyning. At Cyprus the gold zechine was giuen for eleuen lires of Venice, and for 120, aspers of Turkey; and the siluer crown called piastro, or a piece of eight Reali Spanish, was giuen for seuenty Aspers, and the gold Sultanon of Turkey, was of the same value with the zechine of Uenice: yet the ve∣ry Subiects more willingly receiued the zechines. The Turkish Asper is a little peece of siluer, which at Haleppo in Syria was worth some three farthings English: and eight aspers at Cyprus made one scahy (a Turkish money which the Italians call Seya) be∣ing esteemed at little more then sixe pence English, and fifteene scahy made a zechine, twelue scahy made a French or Spanish Crowne, ten scahy made a piastro or Spanish peece of eight Reali. And sixteene brasse Mangouri made one siluer Asper, neither can any money of Cyprus be spent in Palestine without losse.

At Ierusalem and through all Palestine, and those parts, the gold zechines of Venice * 10.34 are more esteemed (as in all Turkey,) then any other peeces of gold, and the very Turkes more willingly receiue them then the Turkish Sultanons. At Ierusalem a ze∣chine was giuen for fiue and forty meidines of Cairo in AEgypt, the Spanish peece of eight Reali called plastro, was giuen for eight and twenty meidines; and halfe a piastro at the same rate, neither haue they any Aspers there, but these meidines onely, where of each is worth three Aspers, so as the fiue and forty meidines giuen for the zechine, are worth 135, Aspers, and the eight and twenty meidines giuen for the piastro, are worth eighty foure aspers. The gold crownes of France and Spaine, are not spent here without losse, but the siluer duckets of Italy are commodious to be spent here. At Tripoli in Syria, and at Haleppo, and in the territories adioyning, the foresaid siluer as∣pers * 10.35 are commonly spent. The gold zechine of Venice is there worth ninety meidines, and the Spanish piastro worth sixty; but these meidines of Tripoli, differ from the other of Cayro in AEgypt, for those of Tripoli are each worth one asper and a halfe, but those of Cayro are each worth three Aspers. At Constantinople all contracts are made by aspers, howsoeuer the foresaid peeces of gold and siluer be there also currant. And in small * 10.36 contracts they pay aspers by the weight, because they cannot easily number them, but in great contracts they reckon by Asses loades of aspers, as the English doe by hundred and thousand pounds. Lastly, at Constantinople, I exchanged gold zechines each at 125, aspers, a French Crowne at one hundred aspers, and a doller of Germany at 75, aspers.

The gold French Crowne is of the standard of two and twenty caracts, and is two * 10.37 penny weight, foure graines and a quarter. The siluer peece called Quart d'escu, that is, the fourth part of a crowne, is of the standard of eleuen ounces, and is six penny weight foure graines, and is worth two Venice Lires, or eighteene pence sterling English. The peece of Siluer called Francke, is of the standard of nine ounces ten penny weight, and eighteene penny weight sixeteene graines, and is worth two shillings English. The French Crowne is exchanged for three Franckes, or for foure Quarts d'escn, or for little more then foure testoones. For foureteen soulz and a halfe make a testoon, fifteene soulz make a Quart d'esca, and twenty soulz make a francke, and sixty soulz make a French crowne, and twelue deniers make a soulz. Yet a gold French crowne In specie, (that is, in kind) is changed for sixty fiue soulz. As in like sort in England, a French crowne is worth no more then six shillings, and the English Angell is worth no more then 11. shillings in common estimation, yet he that brings a weighty a French crowne In specie to the Gold-smyths, they will giue him sixe shil∣ling six pence for it, and he that brings to them an old Angell of gold, they will gine him 11. shillings and six pence, or more for it. And in the last ciuill warre, the value of the French crowne was raised to 120, soulz, till the King reduced the same to the old value after the warre composed. The same King Henry the fourth since that time raised the value of gold crownes, to the end he might draw backe his gold which was carried into forraine parts. My selfe passing through Lorayne, before the French ciuil warre was fully appeased, did at Monwicke, vpon the confines of Lorayne and German, exchange a French crowne for foure franckes and nine grosh, and shortly after com∣ming to Shallons, exchanged a French crowne for no more then sixty soulz, so as I guesse that either the Franckes of Lor aine differ from the Franckes of France, or that the tumult of the warre, and the making of peace shortly after, made this difference.

Of the diuers measures of miles, through diuers parts of the world.

FVrther being to write of the diuers measures of miles, through the diuers parts of * 10.38 the World, it seemed good to me to adde the measure of miles, vulgarly receiued, namely that fiue. Italian miles, or three French, or two and a halfe English, make one Dutch mile, and that one Dutch mile and a halfe makes a mile of Sweitzerland.

It remaines now that according to my owne experience, I should speake something of the diuers kindes of miles. And in generall, this my opinion hath respect to the dif∣ficult or easie passages of the way, since euen in England, the miles seeme, and indeed are more short, neere London, where the waies are faire and plaine, and frequently in∣habited, as they seeme, and indeed are more long and tedious, through the desart pla∣ces of the North, ouer mountaines, and through vninhabited and difficult passages.

The Romans of old held a thousand paces for a mile, and such are the miles of I∣talie. * 10.39

A common English mile makes one & a halfe Italian, but towards the North, & in some particular places of England, the miles are longer, among which the Kentish * 10.40 mile (being a Southerne County) is prouerbially held to be extraordinarily long.

The Irish miles among the English, and the Irish-English are answerable to the Eng∣lish; * 10.41 howsoeuer for the solitary and disinhabited wayes, and many foards often ouer∣flowed they are more troublesome to passe.

In like sort the miles of Scotland, answere to the Northerne miles of England, saue that the frequent climing of mountaines, and the vnbeaten waies, make them seeme * 10.42 longer, and indeed require more time for the passage.

Villamont a French gentleman in the book of his trauels witnesseth, that one French * 10.43 mile containes two Italian miles.

The common Germain mile, being for the most part in plaines, makes more then three English, or fiue Italian miles; but in some places the solitude of Woods, and the * 10.44 ascent of Mountaines, make the miles of Germany seeme much longer, and Sueuia ex∣traordinarily hath long miles, though it be a plaine Countrey. The miles of Sweit∣zerland,

being ouer continuall Mountaines, are so long, as passengers distinguish their iourney more by the spaces of howers, then by the distances or numbers of miles. And I remember, that finding no horse to be hired, I went on foote from Scaphusen to Zureth, which iourney I was going ten howers, being accounted but foure miles. And in Rhaetia among the Grisons, vpon the confines of Italy, one mile is held for sixe Itali∣an miles. And vpon the foote of the Alpes towards the North, one mile is accounted for seuen miles and a halfe of Italy, where hauing a good horse, I could ride with an or∣dinarie pace no more then one Dutch mile in foure howers space. By which appeares, that the measure of miles is very vncertaine among the Sweitzers, who for the most part reckon their iourneys by howers riding, or going with an ordinary pace, and not by miles.

The miles of Bohemia and Morauia are no lesse tedious, and I remember, that my * 10.45 selfe passing there on horseback, did commonly ride no more then foure miles in a dayes iourney. And howsoeuer the length of the Sweitzers and Bohemian miles may in part be attributed to the climbing of Mountaines, and bad waies, yet no such reason can be giuen for the miles of Morauia, which Country is either a plaine, or little pleasant Hilles, and the waies faire, and the Countrey well inhabited.

The Low-Countrey miles are of a middle length betweene the German and French miles. But in the very Country of Holland they differ much one from ano∣ther, * 10.46 since foure miles of great Holland make sixe miles of little Holland. And I remem∣ber, that about the Citie Horne, I esteemed each mile longer then three English. Also next to the Holland miles, those of Freesland are longer then the rest.

A mile of Denmark is somewhat longer then three English miles, and answereth to * 10.47 the common mile of Germany.

The miles of Poland generally are like the miles of Denmarke, but they differ * 10.48 in length one from the other. For I remember, that in Prussia each dayes iourny I passed by coach some seuen miles, and in middle Poland nine or ten miles, but in vp∣per Poland towards Germany I commonly rode on horse-back no more then fiue miles or there-abouts each day, in my passage from Crakaw to Morauia. In Russia among * 10.49 the Moscouites confining vpon Poland, a mile is called a ferse, and answeres to fiue Ita∣lian miles, or one common mile of Germany.

In Turkey those that guide Christians, hauing the Italian tongue, doe in my opinion * 10.50 number the miles to them, much after the Italian manner.

Notes

• * 1.1

  1591.
• * 1.2

  Stode.
• * 1.3

  Hamburg.
• * 1.4

  Lubeck.
• * 1.5

  Luneburg.
• * 1.6

  Magden∣burg.
• * 1.7

  Leipzig.
• * 1.8

  Witteberg.
• * 1.9

  Torg.
• * 1.10

  Misen.
• * 1.11

  Dresden.
• * 1.12

  Friburg.
• * 1.13

  Prage.
• * 1.14

  1592.
• * 1.15

  Nurnberg.
• * 1.16

  Augsburg.
• * 1.17

  Vlme.
• * 1.18

  Lindaw.
• * 1.19

  Costnets.
• * 1.20

  Schaffhau∣sen.
• * 1.21

  Zurech.
• * 1.22

  Baden.
• * 1.23

  Bazell.
• * 1.24

  Strasburg.
• * 1.25

  Heidelberg.
• * 1.26

  Spire.
• * 1.27

  Wormz.
• * 1.28

  Franckfort:
• * 1.29

  Cassiles.
• * 1.30

  Brunswike.
• * 1.31

  Humburge.
• * 1.32

  Breme.
• * 1.33

  Oldenburg.
• * 1.34

  Emdex.
• * 1.35

  Ann. 1592.
• * 1.36

  Dockam.
• * 1.37

  Lewerden.
• * 1.38

  Froniker.
• * 1.39

  Harlingen.
• * 1.40

  Enchusen.
• * 1.41

  Amsterdam
• * 1.42

  Harlam.
• * 1.43

  Leyden.
• * 1.44

  Leyden.
• * 1.45

  An. 1593.
• * 1.46

  Delph.
• * 1.47

  Brill.
• * 1.48

  Roterodam.
• * 1.49

  Dort.
• * 1.50

  Getruden∣berg.
• * 1.51

  Bergenap∣zome.
• * 1.52

  Midleburg.
• * 1.53

  Vlishing.
• * 1.54

  The Hage.
• * 1.55

  Lausdune.
• * 1.56

  This yeere fell in a ly∣ing and su∣persitious age.
• * 1.57

  An. 1593.
• * 1.58

  V'tretcht.
• * 1.59

  Fly.
• * 1.60

  Coppenha∣gen
• * 1.61

  Roschild.
• * 1.62

  Fredericks∣burg.
• * 1.63

  Elsinure.
• * 1.64

  An. 1593.
• * 1.65

  Meluin.
• * 1.66

  Dantzke.
• * 1.67

  Crakaw.
• * 1.68

  Vienna.
• * 1.69

  Paduoa.
• * 1.70

  An. 1594.
• * 1.71

  Anno. 1594.
• * 1.72

  Ferraria.
• * 1.73

  Bologna.
• * 1.74

  Rauenna.
• * 1.75

  Rimini.
• * 1.76

  Pesaro.
• * 1.77

  Anconae.
• * 1.78

  I. oreto.
• * 1.79

  Let the Reader be∣leeue as he list. Woe to him that le∣lecues. Woe to him that be∣leeues.
• * 1.80

  This Image neuer rested till it came into the Popes Terri∣tory where it is not more helpe∣full to o∣thers, then profitable to the Pope and Church men.
• * 1.81

  Behold how holy these walles of bricke are, which can∣not abide the impure touch of Marble,
• * 1.82

  Rome.
• * 1.83

  Capua.
• * 1.84

  Naples.
• * 1.85

  Rome.
• * 1.86

  Anno 1594.
• * 1.87

  Pistoia.
• * 1.88

  Lucca.
• * 1.89

  Pisa.
• * 1.90

  Florence. vulgarly Fioren∣za.
• * 1.91

  Pratoline.
• * 1.92

  San' Cas∣ciano.
• * 4.1

  Thus in English,
• * 5.1

  Pobe Ioane. This monu∣ment (as I heard) was defaced in the time of Pope Cle∣ment the eighth then liuing.
• * 5.2

  Anno 1594 Nou. 18.
• * 5.3

  Genoa
• * 5.4

  Paula.
• * 5.5

  Milano.
• * 5.6

  Cremona.
• * 5.7

  Mantua.
• * 5.8

  Paduoa.
• * 5.9

  Ar. 1595.
• * 5.10

  Vicenza.
• * 5.11

  Verona.
• * 5.12

  Brescia'.
• * 5.13

  Bergamo.
• * 5.14

  Solothurn.
• * 5.15

  Losanna.
• * 5.16

  Geneua.
• * 5.17

  Berne.
• * 5.18

  Monwick.
• * 5.19

  Nanzi.
• * 5.20

  Metz.
• * 5.21

  Anno. 1595.
• * 5.22

  Chalons.
• * 5.23

  Paris.
• * 5.24

  Fontain-bleau.
• * 5.25

  Roane.
• * 5.26

  Dieppe.
• * 5.27

  Anno 1595.
• * 5.28

  Inspruck.
• * 5.29

  Trent.
• * 5.30

  Our iourney from Venice to Ieru∣salem.
• * 5.31

  Anno 1596.
• * 5.32

  Aprill, An∣no 1596.
• * 5.33

  Raguza.
• * 5.34

  Cephalonia.
• * 5.35

  Zante.
• * 5.36

  Candia.
• * 5.37

  Cyprus.
• * 5.38

  Ioppa.
• * 5.39

  Lydda.
• * 5.40

  Ramma.
• * 5.41

  The house of the good thiefe.
• * 5.42

  Modon.
• * 5.43

  David and Goliah.
• * 5.44

  Ierusalem.
• * 5.45

  Christs birth.
• * 5.46

  Nine Sects of Christi∣ans.
• * 5.47

  1. The Frankes.
• * 5.48

  2. The Georgi∣ans.
• * 5.49

  3. The Greekes.
• * 5.50

  4. The Se∣rians.
• * 5.51

  5. The Costi
• * 5.52

  6. The Abi∣sines.
• * 5.53

  7. The Ar∣menians.
• * 5.54

  The Nesto∣rians.
• * 5.55

  9. The Maronites
• * 5.56

  Iune 14. Ann. 1596.
• * 5.57

  Casaria.
• * 5.58

  Antipatris.
• * 5.59

  Carmel.
• * 5.60

  Achon.
• * 5.61

  Tyrc.
• * 5.62

  Sarepta.
• * 5.63

  Sydon.
• * 5.64

  Lybanus.
• * 5.65

  Barutti.
• * 5.66

  Biblis.
• * 5.67

  Tripoli.
• * 5.68

  Huss.
• * 5.69

  Hamath.
• * 5.70

  Iune 29. Haleppo.
• * 5.71

  The last of Iune.
• * 5.72

  Antioch.
• * 5.73

  Byland.
• * 5.74

  Iuly 4. Anno 1596.
• * 5.75

  Scande∣rona.
• * 5.76

  Tarsus.
• * 5.77

  Scanderona
• * 5.78

  Octo. 19. An. 1596.
• * 5.79

  The I∣land of Candia.
• * 5.80

  The Iland of Candia.
• * 9.1

  The Labo∣rinth.
• * 9.2

  The City Candia.
• * 9.3

  The City Candia.
• * 9.4

  December 20.
• * 9.5

  Zantorini.
• * 9.6

  Paros. Naxos.
• * 9.7

  Zio.
• * 9.8

  Seuen Chur∣ches.
• * 9.9

  Pathmos.
• * 9.10

  Mete∣lene.
• * 9.11

  Troy.
• * 9.12

  Tenedos.
• * 9.13

  Sestes & Abydes.
• * 9.14

  Gallipo∣lis.
• * 9.15

  Marmo∣ra.
• * 9.16

  Aloni.
• * 9.17

  Ianua. 1. Anno 1597.
• * 9.18

  Palormo.
• * 9.19

  Hera∣clea.
• * 9.20

  Constan∣tinople.
• * 9.21

  Ann. 1597.
• * 9.22

  Selebris.
• * 9.23

  Erylis.
• * 9.24

  Marmora
• * 9.25

  Gallipolis.
• * 9.26

  Two Castles
• * 9.27

  Tenedos.
• * 9.28

  Lemnos.
• * 9.29

  Metelene. Zio. Smirna.
• * 9.30

  Andros.
• * 9.31

  Athens.
• * 9.32

  Delos.
• * 9.33

  Citherea
• * 9.34

  Zante.
• * 9.35

  March 30. Ann. 1597.
• * 9.36

  Cefalonia. Corfu.
• * 9.37

  Raguza.
• * 9.38

  Il Cornaro.
• * 9.39

  Venice.
• * 9.40

  Iuly 10, an. 1597.
• * 9.41

  Aprill. Ann. 1598.
• * 9.42

  Edenbo∣row.
• * 9.43

  Lethe.
• * 9.44

  Of the di∣uers Mo∣nies of Eng∣land.
• * 10.1

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Scotland.
• * 10.2

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Ireland.
• * 10.3

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Germany.
• * 10.4

  Generally.
• * 10.5

  At Stoade and those parts.
• * 10.6

  At Emden.
• * 10.7

  At Breme, Oldenburg, and those parts.
• * 10.8

  At Bruns∣wicke.
• * 10.9

  At Misen and those parts.
• * 10.10

  In vpper Germany
• * 10.11

  In gene∣rall.
• * 10.12

  Diuers mo∣neys of Bo∣hemta.
• * 10.13

  Diuers mo∣neyes of Sweitzer∣land.
• * 10.14

  Of the di∣uers Coynes of the Low-Countreys.
• * 10.15

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Denmark
• * 10.16

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Poland.
• * 10.17

  Of the di∣uers moneys of Italy. In generall.
• * 10.18

  At Venice.
• * 10.19

  At Ferrara.
• * 10.20

  At Bologna.
• * 10.21

  At Pesara.
• * 10.22

  At Ancona.
• * 10.23

  At Rome.
• * 10.24

  At Naples.
• * 10.25

  At Fioren∣za.
• * 10.26

  In Liguria.
• * 10.27

  At Milane
• * 10.28

  In Piemont.
• * 10.29

  At Mantua
• * 10.30

  The diuers moneys of Turkey.
• * 10.31

  At Zante.
• * 10.32

  At Candia.
• * 10.33

  At Cyprus.
• * 10.34

  At Ierusa∣lem.
• * 10.35

  At Tripoli.
• * 10.36

  At Constan∣tinople.
• * 10.37

  Of the di∣uers moneys of France.
• * 10.38

  The diffe∣rence of miles.
• * 10.39

  Italian.
• * 10.40

  English.
• * 10.41

  Irish.
• * 10.42

  Scottish.
• * 10.43

  French.
• * 10.44

  German.
• * 10.45

  Bohemia,
• * 10.46

  Flemish.
• * 10.47

  Danish.
• * 10.48

  Polonian
• * 10.49

  〈◊〉〈◊〉
• * 10.50

  Turkish.