The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.

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Title
The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.
Author
Lithgow, William, 1582-1645?
Publication
Imprinted at London :: By I. Okes,
1640.
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"The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A05597.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 6, 2024.

Pages

The Ninth Part.
TUnneis beene sightlesse left, I sought the Isle▪ Of little Malta: famous for the stile Of honour'd Knight-hood, drawne from great Saint John, Whose Order and the Manner, I'e expone: Whence Coasting Sicilie, a tripled view I tooke of Aetna: Time discussing you

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A miracle of Metall; for its Kind Is nurs'd by Raine, and suffled up with wind: And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulfe, Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe-streamd Dolf; Head-strong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes Queene, And Kinde Moravia▪ set before mine eyne. To Hungary I came, and Vallechie, The Transilvanian Soile, and Moldavie. Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans face, I Kiss'd Sigismonds hand, at Warsow place: Whence Swethland I, and Denmark last bewray, Norvegia too, in my sought London way; Where bin arriv'd, safe on the brow of Thames, To Court I came, and homag'd Royall James.

ANd now my Wish, and my arrivall, being both desirous, for a while setled in Tunneis, I dis∣patched my Dragoman, and the other Barbari∣an hireling, with a greater consideration, then my two former conditions allowed me: Yet being urged to it by Captaine Ward, I freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and I staying heere, Cap∣taine Ward sent twice one of his servants with me, to see two sundry Ovens drawne, being full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their mothers,* 1.1 but in the Fur∣nace, being thus. The Oven is first spred over with warm Camels dung, and upon it the Egges closing the Oven.

Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of heate, venting through a passage beneath the dung just answerable to the naturall warmnesse of the Hens belly; upon which moderation, within twenty dayes they come to naturall perfection. The Oven producing at one

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time, three or foure hundred living Chickens, and where defection is, every sharer beareth a part of the losse; for the Hatcher or Curator, is onely Recompensed accor∣ding to the living numbers be delivered. Surely this is an usuall thing, almost through all Affricke, which ma∣keth that the Hennes with them are so innumerable every where.

And now it was my good fortune, after five Weekes attendance for Transportation, being about the 14 of February 1616, to meete here with a Holland ship called the Mermaide of Amsterdam, being come from Tituana, and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the way. In this time of their staying,* 1.2 came one Captaine Danser a Fleming, who had beene a great Pirate and Comman∣der at Seas, and the onely inveterate enemy of the Moores; being imployed by the French King in Ambassage, to relieve two and twenty French Barkes that were there Captivated, done by the policy of the Bashaw, to draw Danser hither; notwithstanding that he was then Reti∣red and married in Marseilles.

Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Roade, ac∣companied with two French Gentlemen: Two of which came a shoare, and saluted the Bashaw in Dansers be∣halfe: they are made welcome, and the next day the Ba∣shaw went franckly aboord of Danser, seconded with twelve followers: Danser tooke the presence of the Ba∣shaw for a great favour, and mainely feasted him with good cheare, great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and Roaring shots, and none more familiar then the dissem∣bling Bashaw, and overjoyed Danser, that had relieved the Barks, for they were all sent to him that morning, not wanting any thing.

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After deepe cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a shoare the day following, and to dine with him in the Fortresse: To the which unhappy Danser granted, and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen, and approaching the Castle, was met with two Turks to receive him: where having past the draw-bridge, & the gate shut behind him,* 1.3 his company was denied entrance: where forthwith Danser being brought before the Bassaw, was strictly accused of many ships, spoiles, and great riches he had taken from the Moores, and the mercilesse murther of their lives, for he never spared any: Whereupon he was straight beheaded, and his body throwne over the walles in a ditch; which done, off went the whole Ordnance of the Fort, to have sunke Dansers two ships; but they cut∣ting their Cables, with much adoe escaped; but for the o∣ther Gentlemen a shoare, the Bassaw sent them very cour∣teously and safely aboord of the redeemed Barks, whence they hoised Sailes for Marseilles.

Loe there was a Turkish policy more sublime & crafty, then the best Europian a live could have performed. A litle while thereafter, the aforesaid Hollander being readie to go for Sea, I bad good night to generous Ward, & his for∣ward Runnagats, where being imbarked with prosperous windes; upon the third day we landed at Malta, and there leaving my kind Flemings and their negotiation, I cour∣ted the shoare, saluting againe my former hoste.

The fift day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish Soul∣dier & a Maltezen boy burnt to ashes, for the publick pro∣fession of Sodomy, and long ere night, there were aboue a hundred Bardassoes, whorish boyes that fled away to Si∣cilie in a Galleyot; but not one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it: The Knights that remaine here, as they are of divers Nations, so have they diuers

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manners and inclinations; how soever they of the better sort, are resolute in their atchievments.

The Maltezes anciently did adore the Goddesse Iu∣no, whose Temple was superbiously adorned with rich decorements, and to which, for homage and devotion, came all the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Isles, bring∣ing rich presents and guifts; and they were also hono∣red with the Temple of Hercules, the ruines of which ap∣peare to this day.

Now as for the order of Knight-hood, the oath which is made at their receiving the order of St. Iohn, or of the Religion of the holy Hospitall of Ierusalem,* 1.4 is this: I vow and promise to God, to the most blessed Virgin Mary, the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patron St. Iohn the Babtist, that by the grace and helpe of Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to the superiour, that God and this Religion have appointed; and from hence∣forth that I shall live chast, forsaking marriage and all o∣ther lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing that may be mine.

After this, the Chappell clarke, a Priest of the order, receiving him with divers ceremonies, taketh a blacke Cloak in his hand, and shewing him the white crosse that is fixed thereon, demandeth if hee doth not beleeve that to bee the signe of the Crosse whereon Iesus Christ was crucified for our sinnes: he confesseth it, kissing the Crosse: After which, his receiver putteth the crosse of the Cloake upon the heart and left side of the new made Knight, saying, Receive this signe in the name of the tri∣nity, the blessed Mother of God, the Virgin Mary, and of St. Iohn the Baptist, for the augmentation of the Ca∣tholick faith, the defence of the Christian name, and ser∣vice of the poore: Also we put this crosse on thy left side,

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to the end that thou maist love it with all thy heart, and with thy right hand for to defend it: And in fighting a∣gainst the enemies of Iesus Christ, thou shalt happen to flee, and leave his holy Signe behind thee, thou shalt of good right be depraved of this holy religious order, and of our company: This done, hee knitteth the Gordon of the cloak about him saying; Receive the yoke of our Lord that is sweet, and light and thou shalt finde rest for thy soule: Thus spoke, he kisseth the Gordon, and so doe all the circumstanding Knights, and there are made unto him divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Book of their Ordinances: They have a Priest-hood too of this same order, being Masse-Priests that weare this badge of the white Crosse.

Now bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine afore∣said Countrey Gentleman William Dowglas, I landed the next morning at Sicily in Sicilia, being twenty leagues distant. And now this being the third time of my tra∣versing this Kingdome, (triple experience, deeper know∣ledg) I begin to give you a perfect description thereof.

Sicilia was first named Trinacria (whose figure is Tri∣quetria) for that being triangular,* 1.5 it butteth into the sea with three Promontories Capo di coro, South Cap di pas∣saro West: and Cap di faro East: The length of each tri∣angle from point to point, being 200 miles.

Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in aequor, Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci. An Ile with corners three, out-braves the Main From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.

It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it, and hath beene famous in all former ages:

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By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Isles: By Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was al∣so anciently called the Grange of the Romans, and is ne∣ver a whit decayed to this day.

The length of the Island lyeth East and West, in cir∣uit sixe hundred, large fifty, and in length two hundred forty Italian miles:* 1.6 The soyle is incredible fruitfull, ex∣celling in all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Su∣gar, Rice, Oyle, Salt, Allom, all kinds of fruit, whoe∣some Hearbs, exceeding good Silke, exquisite mines of metall, and the best Corall, in the world is found here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water greene and tender, but when arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof is said to bee found in the Red Sea, and gulfe of Persia.

The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are builded on the highest hills and greatest heights in the Countrey; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them for strength: and a great defence in time of cursary invasi∣ons, of which divers be so strait in ascending that one man may easily resist and beat downe five hundred. The second is,* 1.7 because their dwellings being farre above the parching plains, these situations are good preservatives for their health, where on they have a sweet and cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne salve to prevent sicknesse.

Their Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene twenty miles, one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house, unlesse (being a high way) it bee a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides of the hills, whereon their Townes stand, grow all their Winds, and on the Plaines nothing but red wheat, which for god∣nesse is unparralleled, and the best bread and a bundance

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of it in the world is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, contain∣ing Aetna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro,* 1.8 of old Pelora: The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracusa, Terra nova, and the angle of Cape di Core of old, Lilibea; and the third was the valley of Matzzara containing Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the angle of Cap di passero of old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia was rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the generall Deluge, some by infinit Earth∣quakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to have proceeded from combustious Aetna, which is meere ridi∣culous.

There are divers grounds and valleys in this Isle, that abound so in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoile a hun∣dred measures for one, and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.

The Sycilians for the most part are bred Orators, which made the Apulians tearm them, men of three tongues: besides they are full of witty sentences, & plea∣sant in their rancounters,* 1.9 yet among themselves, they are full of envie (meaning their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready to take re∣venge of any injury committed: But indeed I must con∣fesse, more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the night; for they appeale other to single combat, and that manfully without fraudulent practices.

They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quicknesse and rare inventions in all kind of Sci∣ences, great intelligencers and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the passages formerly

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of my Countrey so exquisitely that I was astonished at their relations so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The Parlament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great au∣thority, in so much that the Viceroy cannot have the free gift (as they call it) which is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of any matter con∣cerning the common-wealth, without the generall con∣sent of the whole Kingdome: The generall Counsell whereof is composed of three branches called by them the armes of the Kingdome:* 1.10 viz. first the Prelats, and in∣feriour Clergy men named the arme Ecclesiastick: se∣condly of Barons called the arme Military: and the third the Commissioners of Cities and Townes intitulated the arme Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this Kingdome amounteth, to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely, which being disbursed euer for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons and of Gallies and cursary ships, the Badge∣loes and servants for the fields, the maintaining of Tow∣ers and watches about the coasts, the reparations of Col∣ledges, high-wayes, Lords pensions, and other defrayings, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.

I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome, (es∣pecially the second time, wherein I compassed the whole Island, and thrise traversed the middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that selfe Nation, to begge bread or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee) that the poorest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in Christendome doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and pleasant, their lan∣guage in many words is neerer the Latine, then the I∣talian, which they promiscuously pronounce, some∣what talkative they are, and effeminate, but gene∣rally

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wonderfull kind to strangers. In the moneths of Iu∣ly and August, all the Marine Townes every yeare, are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Vil∣lages and Bourges, both on foote and horse-backe: who are compelled to lie there at their owne charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they feare the incursions of the Turks; but the rest of the yeare, these Sea-coast Townes are left to the vigilant custodie of the Indwel∣lers

This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and Bandits,* 1.11 untill such time that the military Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some pardoned, and some committed to the Gallies: So that within two yeares of his foure yeares government, there was not a Bandit left at random in all Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Re∣gion, nor one in whom Astreas worth was more ho∣noured, infortitude of mind, and execution of true Justice that this Duke before whose face the silly ones did shine, and the proud stiffe-necked oppressors did tremble.

And in a word, he has no suppressor of the sub∣jects (as many now be) to satisfie either licentious humours, or to inrich light-headed flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the equity of Justice of it selfe, can affond none, neither of any will it be offended; unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary Judge suffer sound judgment to perish for temporary respects; which this noble Governour could never doe, neither suffer any inferiour Magistrate to doe the like under him: As it well appeared by his 〈◊〉〈◊〉 proceedings against thy Iesuits of Pale••••o and his au∣thority

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upon them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances whereof, were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my good wil; and yet my patience could performe my paines with pleasure.

And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochiall Priest of that same City,* 1.12 who had killed a Knights ser∣vant in a Brothel house, the brother of a Shoomaker, which fellow, the Viceroy caused, to Pistoll the Priest in spight of the Cardinall, and there upon absolved him for the dead.

This Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, dis∣charged him to say Masse for a yeare, without satisfacti∣on for the mans life: so the Duke inhibited the Shoo∣maker to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse allowed him two shillings a day to maintaine him for that time.

Many singular observations have I of his government, the which to recite, would prove prolixious, though wor∣thy of note to the intellective man, hee was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately deceased in Spain. It is dangerous to travell by the Marine of the Sea-coasts Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings, least hee finde a Moorish Frigo lodged all night, under colour of a Fisher boat, to give him a slavish break-fast: for so they steale labouring people of the fields, carrying them away captives to Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers which are in every one sight of a∣nother, round about the whole Island.

There arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they are soone discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the Sea-coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horse-backe: And of∣tentimes they advantagiously sease on the Moores,

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lying in obscure clifts and bayes. All the Christian Isles in the Mediterranean Sea, and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining to Barbary, are thus chargeably guarded with watch Towers.

The chiefest remarkeable thing in this Isle from all An∣tiquity is the burning hill of Aetna, called now Ma••••e Bello, or Gibello, signifying a faire Mountaine, so it is, be∣ing of height toward Catagna from the Sea side, fifteene Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The North side toward Rindatza at the Roote being unpassable steepe; yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had been industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the lower parts whereof grow exceeding good Wines, Cornes, and Olives.

And now in my second Travails,* 1.13 and returning from Affricke, I not being satisfied with the former sight, the kind Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his owne charges, to view the Mountaine more strictly. Ascending on the east and passable part, with tedious toile, and curious climbing, wee approached neare to the second fire being twelve miles high; which is the greatest of the three now burning in Aetna: whose vast mouth, or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying in a strait valley between a perpendiculur height and the main Mountaine; whose terrible flames, and cracking smoak is monstous fearefull to behold.

Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my Guide durst adventure (the ground meane while where∣on wee stood warming our feete, and is dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles higher to the maine top of Cima, from which the other two fires had their beginning. Where when come, wee found it no way answerable to the greatnesse of the

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middle fire; the other two drawing from it the substance, wherewith it hath beene anciently furnished; yet be∣tween them two upper fires, I found abundance of Snow (being in Iuly) lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was here in this upmost Fornace, that Empe∣docles the Phylosopher cast himselfe in, to be reputed for a God.

—Des immortalis haberi Dum cupit Empedocles, ardetem fervidus Aetnam Insiluit— To be a god this curious Wretch desires And casts himselfe, in the fierce Aetnean sires.

As we discended on the North-east side, we came to the third and lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountaines foote, over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphurat River, which divideth the Towne and the Hill, it would be in danger to be bur∣ned. This last and least fire runne downe in a cumbusti∣ble flood,* 1.14 from the middle above, Anno 1614. Iune 25. Where the Sulphure streames, before it congealed, fal∣ling in a bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there seazed, and daily augmenteth more and more; ha∣ving quite spoiled the Lands of two Barons in Rindatza: But the king of Spaine, in recompence of their misera∣ble mishaps, did gratifie them with some of his Crowne lands for their maintenance.

I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these Sulphure streames, which have burst foth from the up∣most tops of Aetna Westward, above twenty miles in the plaine. The reason of such ardent disgorgements, is thus; that when the aboundance of Sulphure, being put

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on edge with excessive Raine, and the bitumenous sub∣stance still increasing; which by the chaps, lits, and hol∣low chinkes of the ground (rent partly by the Sunne, and by te forcing flames) is blowne by the Wind, as by a paire of Bellowes; the valt or vast bosome, of which ugly Cell; not being able to containe such a composi∣ture of combustible matter, it impetuously vomiteth out,* 1.15 in an outragious Torrent; which precipitately de∣valleth so long as the heate remaineth: and growing cold, it congealeth in huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall mettall, and full of small holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smiths Forge, where with the Houses of nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are buil∣ded.

This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee the shop of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thun∣der-bolts for Iupiter: Whereof Virgill doth make his Tract, called Aetna. Under this hill the Poets faine the Giant Enceladus to be buried, whose hot breath fireth the Mountain, lying on his face; and to conclude of Aetna, the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.

The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo,* 1.16 the seate of the Viceroy, situate in the North-west part ouer against Sardinia: It is a spacious City, and well watered with delicate Fountaines, having goodly buildings, and large streetes, whereof Stradoreale is principall, being a mile long. In which I hae seene in an evening march a long for Recreation above 60 Coaches, a paire of Mules, being tyed to every Coach: the Gallies of Sicilia which are ten lye here.

The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in Calabria; being impregnable and graced with a famous haven: having three invincible Castles, the chiefe

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whereof, is Saint Salvator by the Sea side; there be di∣vers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals, that serve for offensive and defensive forts, which is the cause (in deri∣sion of the Turks) they never shut their Gates.

The third is Syracsa, standing on the Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Aetna, and halfe way twixt Messina and Malta,* 1.17 a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Me∣tropolitane Seate: It is famous for the Arthusean springs, and Archimedes that most ingenious Mathematitian: He was the first Author of the Spheere, of which instruments he made one of that bignesse, and Are, that one stand∣ing within, might easily perceive, the severall motions, of every Celestiall Orbe: And when the Romans be∣sieged Syracusa he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Shippes lying in the Road: At last he was slaine by a common Souldier in his studdy, at the sacke of the Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Ro∣mau Generall, when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground how to prevet the assaults of the Romans.

The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over against Bi∣serta in Barbary,* 1.18 which yealdeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made onely in some certaine Artificiall Salt pooles, by the vigorous beating of the scorching Sunne, which monthly they empty and fill. The marine here excelleth in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the Towne at work, and when refined, is dispersed over al Christendom.

This City is in great request amongst the Papists, be∣cause of the miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Islands Protector and sole Governour of these narrow seas, for Ships, Gallies, and Slaves: which indeed if an image cut out in wht Marble were so powerfull, it might

Page 394

be credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they super∣stitiously there unto annexe a rabble of absurde lies.

The first is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Aetna, that was so vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt is Matzara South-west, over against the Barbarian Promon∣tory of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza, Trranova, E••••••a, where Pluto is said to have stolne Proserpine, Malzra, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agri∣gentum, where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen Bull, which he made for the de∣struction of others.

The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia wherein times past so famous,* 1.19 that they grew unto this poverbe, In∣vidia Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionisius worst of all, that when the peo∣ple powred out continuall execrations on the last, wish∣ing his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life: This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his fa∣ther and he, each succeeding worser and worser, and least (said shee) he dying, the divell should come in his place, (for a worser never lived) I wish him to continue still.

This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romans, remaining in subiection under the French till the yeare 1281 in which Peter of Arragon, contrived his purpose so close that at the sound of a Bell, to the evening ves∣pers, all the French men in Sicilia, were cruelly massa∣cred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of Arragon, and now of Spaine; which exploit masketh under the name of Vesperi Siculi, For nobility this Island may compare with Naples, their stiles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenewes wonderous small.

The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience

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of both, that the French are wiser then they seeme, and the Spaniards seeme wiser then they are:* 1.20 And even as the Spaniard is extreame proud in the lowest ebbe of For∣une: So is the French man exceeding impatient, coward∣ly desperate, and quite discouraged in the pinch of sterne calamity. The Spaniard and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditionall disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a Camell, with his knees and heeles alike aside, sitting on the sadle, like to a halfe ballast ship, tottering on top-tem∣pestous waves: And the French man, hangeth in the stir∣rop, at the full reach of his great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse with neck-stropiat spurs, and beating the winde with his long waving limbes, even as the Turkes usually doe, when they are tos∣sed at their Byrham, hanging between two high trees, reciprocally waving in the ayre, from the force of two long bending ropes.

The women ride here stradling in the saddle, and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious mourning twice a day,* 1.21 for a moneths space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores: Yet neither shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custome for the dead, the Turkes observe, and all the Oriental peo∣ple of Asia.

This Island finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers shee once produced: Archimedes the great Mathe∣matician; Empidocles, the first inventer of Rhetorick; Euclide the textuary Geometrician; Diodorus Siculus

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that renowned Historian, and Aeshilus the first Tragedi∣an of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age, by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rocke, let a shel-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it beat out his braides.

But to proceede in my itinerary relation having twice imbarked at Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Africke, I have choosed the last time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of my departure thence: After a generall surueigh of this Island and Monto Bello, arriving at Messiua,* 1.22 Anno 1616 August 20,, I encoun∣tred with a worshipfull English Gentleman Mr. Stydolffe Esquire of his Maiesties body accompained with my Countrey man Mr. Wood now servant to Iames Earle of-Carlile, who instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affability of which former Gentleman, to mee in no small measure was extended, meeting also afterward at Naples, as in the one place shall be succinctly tou∣ched.

Here I found some 60 Christian Gallies, assembled to the Faire of Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17 of August: Wherein all sorts of Merchandize are to be sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: thirty of which Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messinai foure miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposite Maine. This Regium was that Towne where Saint Paul arrived after his shipwracke at Malta in his voyage to Rome: it was miserably sacked by the Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno 1609, but now by the Spaniards it is repared with stronger walls, and new fortifications, sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such like accidentall invasions.

In this time of mine abode here, their happily arri∣ved

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from Italy my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dow∣glas his Majesties Chirurgion extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of the Christian incursions against the infiedls, whose presence to me after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding com∣fortable, and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Aetna) as the peculiarbadge of my in∣nated love.

High stands thy top, but higher looks mine eye, High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire, High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see, But higher far this brest, whilest I aspire: High mounts the fury of thy burning fire, But higher far mine aimes, transcend above: High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire, But higher flies my sprite, with wings of love. High presse thy flames, thy Christiall aire to move, But higher moves the scope of my engine, High lieth the sow, on the proud tops I prove, But higher up ascends, my brave designe. Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame But my poore soule, the highest heavens doth claime, Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops, Thy hight makes fall from me, ten thousand drops,

Here in Messina I found the (somtimes) great English Gallant Sir Francis Verny lying sick in a Hospitall,* 1.23 whom sixe weekes before, I had met in Palermo: Who after many misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, a∣bandoning his Countrey, and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian Gallies: In one of which he was two yeares a slave, whence hee was redeemed

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by an English Iesuit, upon a promise of his conversion to the Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common Souldier, and herein the extreamest calamity of extreame miseries, contracted Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably interred, in the best manner, time could affoord me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable mutability of fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so meane a Buriall, and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.

After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, there for∣tunately accoasted heere twelve Neapolitan Gallies come from Apulia, and bound for Naples: in the one of which, by favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce the Generall, I imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas, which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait whereof, is 24 miles in length, in bredth 6, 4, and 2 miles. This Sea, is called the faro of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, we met with two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken Seas, did choake the Gallies with a strugling force.

Incidit in Scyllam, Cupiens vitare Charibdim.
Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast, On sandy Scilla, wrestling they, are lost.

Yet of no such eminent perill,* 1.24 or repugnable Currents as be in the fifth. of Stronza & Westra; especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the maine Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from ey∣ther sides, may quickly loose sight, both of Life and Land for ever. As we entred in the Gulfe of Saint Eufemit, we etched up the little Isle of Strombolo: This Isolet is a

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round Rock, and a mile in Compasse, growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a Chimney arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting forth great stones & flames that neither Galley nor Boate, dare Coast or boord it.

South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily lie the two Islands Valcan Maior and Minor; whereof the lesser perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Isle belonging to Naples, and 20 miles in Circuite, being strongly begirded with Rockey heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whither Ferdinando of Naples fled, being thrust out of his King∣dome by Charles the eight.

There is a Fountaine here of that incredible heate,* 1.25 that in short time will boile any fish or flesh put in it, and the tast agreeable to disgestion. Departing from thence, and coasting the maine shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot in Chafe, where seizing on her, we found 16 Moores therein, and sixe Christians, three Men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up, in going betwene two Townes by the Sea side. The Peasants were set at liberty, and the Moores immediately preferred to chaines of Iron, bloody lashes, tugging of Gally oares, and per∣petual slavery.

Neere the marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boor∣ded close by the foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burne, but now extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the secrets of Nature, pressing neer to behold it, was stifled with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place, which is most excellently described in the Booke of his

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Epistles by his Nephew the younger.

Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne to Christendome, and the day follow∣ing, I went to review the ancient Monuments of Put∣zolo or Puteli: Which when I had dilligently remarked, in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesaid English Gentleman and Mr. Wood, who neeedes would have mee turne backe to accompany them hither. When come, wee tooke a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights: the first thing of any note we saw,* 1.26 was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded betwene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments thereof re∣maine unruined to this day: The next was the new made Mountaine of Sand, which hath dryed up Lago Luri∣no being by an Earth quake transported hither; at the foote of this abulous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ci∣ceroes Village.

Thence wee came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemo∣lished.

This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short mile. The West end where∣of, is invironed with the Mountaine of Cuma, whither Aeneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Car∣thage, and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.

Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we came to Sybillaes Cave, the entry being darke because of the obscure passage, between out and cut through the maine Rocke, our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The first passage was ex∣ceeding

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high Cim, and the further end stopped with moulding earth. Inclining to our right hand, wee passed through a very strait and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber, which is a delicate Roome, and Ar∣tificially decored with Mosaicall Worke: Here it is said, the Divell frequented her Company, and where shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most intricate and narrow way, (wherein wee were forced to walke sidling in) to a large and vast Room▪ The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bot∣tome.

This great Cell or Hall,* 1.27 is a yard deepe of blackish Water, and was the dining Room of Sybilla. In which, hearing toward the further end, ascriking noise, as if it had beene the croaking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded: Who answered, they were Dragoris and flying Serpents, pray∣ing us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily affraid: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter; and Mr Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I lea∣ving the other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Ha∣ving more then halfe way entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of aire, being so far under ground the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide, but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neither would he nor durst hee hazard to support us.

Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult way backe, and tendering (as by du∣ty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped downe to my

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middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keep him on the dry stones. Where indeed, I must confesse, I grew affrighted, for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for indeede the di∣stracting noise drew nearer and nearer us. At last, falling neare the voice of our guide, who never left shouting, wee returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages, till wee were in open fields.

Here indeede for my too much curiosity, I was con∣diginly requited, being all bemired and wet to the mid∣dle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned mee quickly thereof: from thence (to be briefe) wee came to the Bagni,* 1.28 the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the fort of Baja, and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello, into the ad∣mirable fish ponds of Lucullus; (the coverture of which, is supported by 48 naturall pillars of stony earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian fields: Thence wee returned by the sepulcher of Agricu∣la, the mother of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing o∣ver in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monu∣ment wee saw, was the ancient Temple of Iupiter, who serveth now for their Domo, or Parochial Church: the latter Idolatry of which, is nothing inferiour to the former.

Meanwhile here arrived the French Gallies, fetching home Chevalier du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship belonging to Captain Pennington, which they, as a Cur∣saro or man of warre, confiscated. Their Anchors fal∣len,

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I boorded the Queenes Galley, where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man of speciall acquaintance, George Gib of Burowtownnes (who was Pilot to the English) fast chained to an oare,* 1.29 with shaven head and face: Who had his owne shippe twice seased on by the Turkes, at Mamora: which ship he lastly recovered at the Isle Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being mise∣rably worme eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall in England, I should procure, by the helpe of his friends, his Majesties letters to the Duke of Guyse Ad∣mirall, for hindeliverance. But soon thereafter, being of a great spirit, his heart broak, and so died in Marseiles.

Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis, Et fugiuunt fraeno non remorante Dies.
Times slide away, grey heires come postring on, No reyne can hold our days so swiftly gon▪

Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Selphatara, where the fine Brimstone is made, which is a prety incir∣cling Plain, standing upon a moderate hight; having three vents, through two of which, the smoaking flame ariseth, & the other produceth no fire; but after an excessive raine surgeth six foote high with black boyling water, which continueth so long as the raine lasteth.

From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grot∣to di cane; wherein if a Dogge be cast he well suddenly die, and taken thence, and cast in the Lake, he will forth∣with revive: this Grotto or Cave, standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago di Avagno: We desirous to make triall of a Dog; and finding the fel∣low

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that purposely stayeth there, somewhat extortiona∣ble, I adventured in stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe; Whereupon Master Stydolffe holding up the quar∣rered doore, I entered to the further end thereof, bring∣ing back a warme stone in each hand from thence, where∣at the Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: for behold (say they) there was a French Gentleman the for∣mer yeare, who in a bravado, would needes goe in; where∣upon he was presently stifled to death, and here lyeth bu∣ried at the mouth of the Grotto, to serve for a caveat, to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like.

The relation indeede was true,* 1.30 put I counting nothing of it, would needes (sore against the Gentleman and Ma∣ster Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to the bot∣tome, being ten paces long, the moyst and choaking heat did so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with much adoe I returned backe; where receiving the fresh aire, and a little Wine, I presently forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, hee for an easie composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a string to his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave, where immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell downe dead: And forthwith his Master repulling him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in water in his eares, but hee never could recover his life. Whereupon the poore man cryed out, alas I am undone, what shall I doe, the Dog that wonne my daily fod is dead; in compassion whereof, the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages.

In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through Virgils Grot, being halfe a mile long, and cut through a the maine body of a Rocke, whereby the Mountaine of Cataja by the Sea-side is made passable; at the East end

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whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe: and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of mine ad∣venture in Grotto di Cane, they could hardly be perswa∣ded to believe it: But when avouched, they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which never man had done before me reserving life.

Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di lavora, and in the way of Saint Germane, and Mount Cassino to Rome; within ten miles of Capua, I found the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world af∣foordeth: having no more (nor never had he, nor any be∣fore him) than dui Carolini or Iuletti, twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle, Baron, and Knight in Italy,* 1.31 who is unable at one time to keepe a foote-man at his heels, a Dog at his foote, a Horse be∣tweene his legs, a good suit of clothes on his backe, and his belly well ed, so glorious are their stiles and so mise∣rable their revenewes.

Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at the breake of day, another houres sight and conference, with my Couzen Simeon Gra∣hame; who ere the Sunne arose crossing Ponto flamingo, brought mee on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a jayle, held us both fast, where leaving our recipro∣call loues behind vs, wee divided our bodies East and West.

And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best to let our Pa∣pists here at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell deaths, of most of their Popes beyond Seas: which their own best Authors in France, Italy, and Spain, having justly and condignely avouched and recorded; & authorized also to light by their prime powers civil & spirituall. The Papists

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generally hold, that in their popes, is all power, Super omnes Potestates, tam Coeli, quam Terrae; above all powers both in Heaven and Earth: They terme him Alter Deus in Terris; a second God upon the Earth, Deus mortalis in terris, ei immortalis homo in Coelis; a mortall God upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the Heavens: Some of them have allotted, that hee is Non Deus, non homo, sed utrunque; neither God nor man, but both: The popes former title was Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium, King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.

Paul the third,* 1.32 entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany, had this salutation. Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paul the Third, the best and greatest God on earth. Then since they will have them Gods above the God of Gods; tel me I pray you, what a May pole Dauncer, was Iohn 12, alias 13, of 18 yeares old, who made the Lateran their great Church in Rome, a plaine Stew or Brothel house?

What a pope-boy of twelve yeares old, was Benedict the ninth? and after wrought by inchantments. Ano∣ther Pope they had, whom they called Vnum pecus, in eo quod de mane faciebat gratiam, & de sero revocabat: A very Asse, for in the morning hee would grant many great kindnesses, and at night revoke them all againe. What a thiefe was pope Boniface the seventh? who rob∣bed St. Peters Church? what a Sodomiticall Pope was Sixtus the fourth? who builded Stews of both kindes, granting his Cardinalls the use of Sodomy, for three whole moneths. What an Atheisticall pope, was Leo the tenth, who called the Gospel a Fable? What a Here∣ticall pope was Honorius the first? who by sixe generall Councels, was condemned for a Monothelite? What a

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perjured Pope was Gregory the twelfth? and openly for∣sworne: What a Negromancer was Silvester the second? who gave himselfe both soule and body to the divell, to attain the Popedome: What was Pope Iohn the ele∣venth, but a bastardly brat to pope Sergius? What a sor∣cerer, Charmer, and Conjurer, was Hildebrand called Gregory the seventh? given to all beastlinesse and diabo∣licall practices? this was hee that threw the Sacrament in the fire: what was Innocent the third? who was bran∣ded with this black mark, non est Innocentius, imo nocens vere, he is not innocent, but very nocent: What a wic∣ked and cruell murtherer was Iohn the twelfth a Romane borne,* 1.33 who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall, and the thumbe of another Cardinall; onely because they had wrote the whole tract of his abominable vices to the Emperour Otho.

What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was Ste∣phanus the seventh, who after hee had cancelled the de∣crees of his predecessor Formosus, caused to deterre his dead body, cut off his fingers and lay him in the fields to be devoured by the fowles of the aire? What a beast∣ly pope was Sergius the third, that after he had impri∣soned Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw out the corps of pope Formosus his old competitor, from the grave, and cut off his head, as though hee had beene a∣live.

What a cruelty was shown upon Iohn the 17, who af∣ter he was deprived his papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his nose cut off and his members, and was hanged: What a poysonable pope was Damasus? who poysoned his predecessour Clemens the second, to attaine the papality, and yet dyed within a moneth there after being pope: What a mercilesse pope was Boniface the seventh, that

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after hee had Rob'd St. Peters Church and fled to Constan∣tinople, hearing that Pope Iohn the 14 was replaced, hee returned and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where hee dyed of extreame hunger. What a persecution had Gelase borne in Gaetta neare Naples, who first by the Romans was imprisoned, then stoned through the Citty, miserably dyed: Gregory the 8 succeeding him, was De∣posed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgondy, who imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made him selfe Pope.

What devotion fell out from the braines of Rome, to stone Pope Lucius the second to Death: what a shame∣full division was in your Papality for fiftie yeares, when Vrbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successors, and Cle∣mens 7 and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you have had three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond King of Hungary and Boheme was elected Emperour,* 1.34 to wit, Benedict 3 at Avignion: Iohn the 23, at Bullogna; and Gre∣gory the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could ever one of them open and shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell. What an Infidel was Pope Iohn 22 who denied the immorality of the Soule.

What was Clement the 5 but an open Whore-mun∣ger and a drunken sot. What was Boniface the 8 he was called a Theefe, Robber, and rooted in all unspeakable sinnes, the eight Nero of Rome. What a furious and wicked Pope, was Iulius the second: who given more to Warre then to Christ, cast Saint Peters keyes (as they call them) into Tyber: what a prophaine skoffer of Christ, was Paul the third: who lying in bed with his owne Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by her Husband: hee lay with his own Daughter, and poysoned her Husband; and then lay with his owne sister, and after

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poysoned poth her and his owne mother. What was Iulius the third, an open Sodomite, and horrible blas∣phemer. What was Pope Engenius, a damnable scandal∣zer of the Church, and condemned by the Counsell of Basil for an incorrigible and wilfull Hereticke. Pope Iohn 23 was deposed by the counsel of Constance, for Heresie, Simonie, Murther, Enchantment, Adultery, and worst of all, for Sodomy. What was Pope Iohn 13 a vild monster in his life, committing incest with both his sisters & fa∣thers Concubine Stephana:* 1.35 He was a gamster, and playing at Dice, did call for help to the Divell, and would drink to the Divells health; he was repleat with all abominable vices: at last being taken in the act of adultery, was woun∣ded to death.

Boniface the 8 aforenamed, came to be Pope by cous∣ning his predecessor Celestine, in speaking through the Wall in a Reed (as if it had beene a voice from heaven) ad∣monished him to surrender his Papacy; whose Epithit was thus: Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus, Mortuus est ut Canis: He come in like a Fox, he ruled like a Wolf, he dyed like a Dog.

At the sixt Counsell of Carthage, was not the treachery and falshood of Pope Zosimus condignely sifted out in corrupting for ambitious governm ent the Counsell of Nice. Bernard about 500 yeares agoe complayned much of the tyranny of the Popes in his time, calling them De∣frauders, Raveners, Traytors, darknesse of the world, Pilats, Wolves and Divels.

Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now go∣verne their Church are for the most part Theeves and Murtherers. And Platina, calleth some of their Popes vile monsters, uncleane beasts, and strange creatures. And I re∣member it was noted by an Historian; Episcopos Romanos

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ne peccata quidem sine laude committere: The popes could do nothing, were it never so mischievous, but it was com∣mendable.

And even likewise their prime pardons, for Noxas, praeteritas, aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quoad commissa quàm quoad committenda crimina ab∣solvenda; That his Holinesse hath all manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares ago,* 1.36 Paul, Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo, the late Bishop of Millane for a notable Saint, being knowne tobe a notorious and scelerate liver, done sooner by fif∣teene yeares then their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Ducats; allotting prayers, Mira∣cles, pardons, and pilgrimages to him, erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good & charitable liver by all re∣ports, could never, nor cannot attaine to the dignity of a Saint, his means was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive.

And how wonderfull absurd is the popes Bulladi San∣ta Cruzada, pro defunctis in Purgatory, that for one Pa∣ter noster, at a Masse saying, or a Masse said them: Si cavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall reliefe any three soules out of purgatory whom you please. Nay I have seen the popes Edict so gracious, that induring one Masse, as many Pa∣ters as you can recite, as many soules you free from thence.

And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might soone empty that purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant touch with his finger during his prayers a gaudy beede inraveled between five small fast made irons placed be∣fore

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the Altar; their Balla, their payment for it, their Paters, their devotion for their friends soules, are all lost. They say if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be oblivious in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell Monster, that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office in Hell, should detaine any poore soule in such torments, as they say are in Purgatory.

Infinite passages of the like kind could I recite, if I had longer time and larger leasure; and especially of their miraculous lyes, or lying Miracles; in erecting of fals∣hood, and maintaining of periury; but till a fitter oca∣sion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse, and so pro∣ceede. Having left mine aforesaid friend Master Gra∣hame at a Taverne at Bilbo neere to Rome, I set for∣ward through the vale of Ombria, and the Countrey Ro∣mania, whereof Ravenna is Lady,* 1.37 and the Pope Lord, I arrived (the way of Ferrara and Padua) at Venice. Who then was levying an army against the Croation Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of Grasso now Emperour, of which Army Count Mansfield was generall, and with whom I crossed the Gulfe to Pola in Istria, and from thence to the siege of Gradisea: The discourse whereof, I have here formerly avouched in the second part of my first Travailes. Now to speake of a Souldier, certainely hee is more then praise-worthy and fortunate, that hath faced the Low Countries, reviewed Briscia in Lom∣bardy, and footed and sighted the Arsenal of Venice; then his eyes have first seen, the sonnes, the force, the policies and Kingdome of Mars: Secondly the fiery shoppe of Vulcan, where rarest Armes and Weapons are ham∣mer'd out upon the Anvill, for the honour of Mars; and

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lastly the incomparable Armory or store-house for Sea & Land, the Magazin and treasury of Mars.

Now leaving both the armies barking at other like to Hercanian wolves, I traced the fertile soyles of Carindia, Carneola and Stria, even to Vienna, all which were sub∣ject to the Emperour, save a part of Carneola, that groanes under the Turke. Being arrived at Vienna, I found the Towne,* 1.38 and the flying fame of it far different, either for greatnesse, strength, or wealth: for the Towne rising upon a moderate height circular, is but of small compasse without, nor passing two English miles.

The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the Towne; and the strength of it is no way comparable to a hundred Cities that I have seene, neither is it for wealth so much to be admired, being depraved of Seas, shipping, and navigaion, having onely the needfull prosperity of dry land Townes.

Here I found a Turkish Ambassador, going downe the Champion Danubio of Europe, for Constantino∣ple, and with him Gratianus a Greeke his Interpre∣ter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged; and with whom I imbarked downe the river to Presburg: a place where the Hungarian Crowne is kept, and from thence discending the River to Comorre, the down∣most Towne the Emperour retayneth on Danubio, I left my noble interpreter, and traversed the Champain Countrey.

The Chiefe Townes whereof I will briefly touch, & so proceed Buda: is the capitall Citie of Hungary, where∣in the Turkish Bassaw hath his residence and was ta∣ken in by Solyman the Emperour the twenty of Au∣gust 1526. the other is the aforesaid Presburge anci∣ently Bosonia; the rest are Belgrad or Albegreck, an∣ciently

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Taurinum, in Dutch Griches: Weissenberg, that was taken by Soliman, 1520 Valpa, and Singidum, upon the Danubio, both under the Turke, and that of the seven Churches upon the Riuer Drana taken in, in the yeare one thousand five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in the yeare one thousand five hundred sixty sixe.

Moreouer vpon the Danubio, the towne Strigonium commonly Grana,* 1.39 and Alberoyall, otherwise Stulvesen∣burg; a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronati∣ons of the Kings of Hungary, and was taken by the Turks Anno 1543.

Neare the same place is Stridon, whey they say Saint Ierome was borne: And now aboue all other, the strong Towne of Gamorra, standeth in an Isle of the Danuby of that same name, which the Turks have so oft besieged, yet never could surprise it.

There is also Tockay, and Iauuarin or Rab seated too upon Danuby, a Town as it were impregnable, yet it was overtaken by the Turkes, and lastly recovered by the Christians.

The Beglerbeg of Buda,* 1.40 hath under his command, eight thousand Timariots, and twelve thousand common Souldiers which lye in Garrison, in continuall pay on the confines of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these con∣fines belonging to the house of Austria: The Bassa hath under his authority 13 Sanzacks, lying at these thirteene Townes here undernamed, to wit; Novaguard, Semendria Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesia, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock, Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zegein, and Sexad.

The other Begberbegship of Hungary is at Temesa∣ra, who retaineth under his command eight Sanzacks and as many jurisdictions, spreading his authoritie

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over sixe thousand Timariots, and eight thousand foote souldiers, and these Sanzacks lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad, Mudania, &c. The great Turke hath eight Beglerbegs or Bassawes under him in Europe; that of Bos∣na being one of them, who commandeth ten Sanzacks and eight thousand Timariots: the residence of which Bassa is at Bagivialezza, a commodious place lying in the midst of circulating Provinces, over which he spreads the Ballucco of his power.

The soile of Hungary aboundeth infinitely in all things the earth can produce for the use of man;* 1.41 and produ∣ceth admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow neare and about the Towne of Sermi, and so sweet, that they may compare with the Wines of Candy, yea and aboun∣deth in all kind of bestiall, that it is thought this King∣dome may furnish all Europe with Beefe and Mutton.

The Hungarians are descended of the Hunnes, a peo∣ple of Scythia or Tartary. The auncient Inhabitants di∣vided their hàbitations in nine circles, which the Ger∣manes named Hagyes, and impaled them with high walls, made of earth and wood being twenty foote high, and as much in breadth,* 1.42 being rampired with diverse Bul∣warks, and towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hears, and fructiferous trees.

The space from side to side of each one of these cir∣cles, amounteth to twenty Dutch miles, the Townes, Villages and houses being within, and so contrived, that each one was within cry of an other, this was the first ad∣mirable plantation of the Hunnes in this Kingdome.

The Hungarians haue ever been thiftuous, treche∣rous and false, so that one brother will hardly trust another; which infidelity among them selves and distract∣ed deceitfull governours, was the chiefest cause of their

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overthrow and subjection under Infidels: And so have corrupt Counsellours, and insolent Princes beene the ruine of their owne Kingdomes; for if we would have a Prince fit to governe others, and so direct him selfe with the square rules of wisdome and judgement, to know how to become all places, and to use all fortunes, let him bind his tender youth with a disposition tempered with sadnesse: for such a man can never seduce his mi∣nority with ill examples, nor marre his waxen age with a false impression, too common a condition of these dess∣lute times.

Now as for the Hungar soile,* 1.43 and Kingdome it selfe, & for the goodnesse of it, it may be tearmed the girnell of Ce∣res, the garden of Bacchus, the Pastorage of Pan, and the ri∣chest beauty of Silvan: for I found the wheat here grow∣ing higher then my head, the vines over looking the trees, the Grasse jusling with my knees, and the high-sprung Woods, threatning the clouds: surely if I should enter on particulars here, I have more subject to worke upon, than any kingdome that ever I saw: The kingdome is diviped in two parts the higher and the lower, the lowest, largest, and best is under the Turke, and the other narrow propor∣tion under the Emperour.

The Hungarian miles are the longest upon the earth, for every one of theirs, is six of our Scots miles, nine English: so that the most that ever I could travell in one day, was but sixe miles: Their language hath no affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the greatest part of the Countrey both under the Turke and Emperour, are Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the rest being Arians and papists.

There is a great Gentry in this Kingdome, but untra∣velled abroad, farre lesse mannerly at home, being luxuri∣ous

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and ill taught, and damnably given to that Mascu∣line misery, the whole Southerne World is defiled with. Having now traversed all the countrey to Grana, and so to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so covered with Woods, and them full of Murtherers, (for I was robbed on these confines, and hardly saved my life) I was constrained I say, to returne to Tockai in the higher Hun∣gary, and from thence in one day I stepped into Transil∣vania.

This Countrey is so environed with high and unpassa∣ble mountaines about,* 1.44 that their is but onely five entries to come into it, which makes it so strong and impregna∣ble: Within, there is a rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles long, and sixe broad, being beautified with sixe faire Townes; the chiefest whereof are Cromestate, Iuliastrad, and Hermestat: the sides of the Mountaines within rise all upward halfe levell way even to the tops, which ma∣keth a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best mixt soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine there groweth nothing but Wheate, Ri, Barley, Pease, and Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower parts of the Hills a∣bout, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages, and to∣ward the extreame circulary heights, onely, Pastorage for Kine, Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickers of woods: So fram'd that every one supplieth an other, for they of the Valley furnish the other two parts with Victualls; and they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter, and Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one another as they neede. Here I found every where kind and familiar people, yea, and the very Vulgar speaking fre∣quent Latine, and so commonly doe all the Hungarians. The Inhabitants here are all Protestants, but for their Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee

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was lying sick of a Feaver at Iuliastred: This Province is a free Principality, & notwithstanding adherent in some respect to the authority of the Turke. But now having left this religious Country, and crossing the North pas∣sage of the Hills, called the Borean Berger, or north moun∣taine, I entred in Moldavia; where for my welcome in the midst of a borderwood, I was beset with sixe murderers,

[illustration]

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Hungarians and Moldavians: where having with many prayers saved my life, they robbed me of three score Hun∣gar Duckets of gold, and all my Turkish clothes, leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned to me my Pa∣tents, Papers, and Seals.

This done, and for their better secuitie, they carried me a little out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my armes backward so likewise: swearing to mee, that if I cried for help, or hindred them of their designes before the Sun-set, they would turnback and kill me; pro∣mising then to set me free.

But night come,* 1.45 and I forgotten, was left herein a trembling feare, for Wolves and wild Boars, till the mor∣row; were at last, by Gods providence, I was relieved in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me with an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat, one of them carried me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of Starholds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes: And wa more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne boun∣ty, and noble Kinsmen, his neigbouring friends, and would not suffer mee to goe any further in the Countrey, because of the Turkes jealousie over strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince, with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover, the Ambassadors house.

Well, I yield to the Noble mans counsell, and gi∣ving him all dutifull thanks for his kind regards, he sent a guide with mee for two dayes journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland, bordering with Tartary.

The halfe of which Country, I found left disinhabited

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and desolae by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determi∣ned to have entred Tartary, but finding no conduct not assurance of my safety, I continued my course to Crocavia; situae on the upper Frontiers of Polland bor∣dering with Hungary.

Tartary is thought to be six hundred leagues in length, confining Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North with Rssia, and to the West with Podolia, and Muldavia.

The Tartars are not expert in Warre,* 1.46 neither are they so valorous as the Turkes, not so manly as the Poloni∣ans, who counter blow them at rancounters; never∣thelesse by stealth of inroads, they mightily suppresse the extreamest parts of Poland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or Emperour of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince and the Moscovites call him Catzar Cataiskci, to wit, the Caesar of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the Sonne of God, the man of God, and the foule of God: yea, and the greatest Oath that they thinke can bee sworne, which they usually doe in ma••••ers of fidelitie and great importance, is by his Throne Royall.

This custome of idolatrous obeysance came first by one Rangavistah, who being chosen to be their Emperor, would try their promptnesse and good will of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest Prin∣ces, and head Governours under him of the people, to to kill their infants, with their own hands.

And notwithstanding the Cmmandement seemed verie rude and intolerable, yet they fearing the common people, who esteeme their Emperours to be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats

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every one of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes, and the sight of the people.

Insomuch, that ever since, the life and death of the Tar∣tars, depend upon the good-will, and word of the King, which no way they dare contradict; such is the ignorant reverence they carry toward him.

The Tartarians, for the most part are small of body, their eyes grosse, and bolstring out, their faces bee broad and without haire, saving that in their upper Lippe and Chin, they have thinne and moist haire; they bee com∣monly slender in the middle; they shave their heads from one eare to the other, by the top of the Crowne to the hinder part, keeping long haire like unto a wo∣man, whereof they make two folds or pleats, and so binde them both behind the eares; and so bee all other shaven that live amongst them. They be excellent horse∣men, and ill foote-men; and therefore none goeth a foot, but rides either on horse-back, or upon some other beast, as Oxen, or Cowes. They take great pride to hang Bells and other Tassells of silke about their horses necks, to make them shew comely, and a meanes because of their Bells, to keepe them from tyring, being hung at their eares: When they drinke, they powre it in till they bee drunken, which they take as a great glory or Conquest a∣mong them, who can carry most drinke; a custome too much used here in England, which I could wish were left; For the glory of a drunkard is his owne shame. They have no bread, nor use any baking, nor Table-cloaths, nor Towells; they use no handkerchiefs, nor seldome or never doe they wash their hands, body, or aparrell. They eate no pot-hearbes, nor pulfe; but onely the flesh of all kind of living things, not caring whether cleane or un∣cleane creatures, as dogges, horses, &c. They roast the

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bodies of such parties as they take in warre, to shew their cruelty, and desire of revenge: And where many meet together in the eating of them, they teare them with their teeth like Wolves, and drinke their blood, which they reserved before in Cups, otherwise they drink Cowes Milke.

It is a hainous thing with them to suffer any drinke to be lost, or any meate cast away; and therefore they cast no bones to Dogs, before they have broken the bones and taken out the Marrow. In warre they have swords of a yard long: their horse-men are very skilfull in discharg∣ing their Pistolls. Their Princes never enter into warre, but standing afarre off, they call unto their owne compa∣ny, to be of good courage, and exhort them to bee reso∣lute, and fight manfully. They most commonly carry their wives and children with them, because their wives are attired like men: they also carry Images of men on Horse-backe to their warres, which they thinke is a point of policy, that they may seeme a great number, and to dis-hearten their enemies. They count it no dishonour or shame to runne away from their enemies, if they finde themselves to be too weake for them. And if they do get the victory, they spare none, neither women nor children, young, nor old: They give quarter to none, but onely to those who are Artificers, and handy-crafts men, whom they reserve for their owne uses: They are very inconti∣nent, and therefore they are suffered to take as many wives as they please; they except none, neither mother, daughter, or sister, and they are given much to Sodomy. They do not esteem of any other womē as of their wives, nor doe they thinke her worthy of any Dowry, before that she hath brought forth a child: They may refuse any wife which they have, if they bee barren, and may take

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another. They that are taken in the act of Adultry, are surely put to death by their Law, having no pitty shewed them. No man maketh water in his house, if he doth, he is sure to be slaine: if necessity compeld him, that hee could not stay, then his Tent and other things therein, are purified and aired with fire, and other curious scens.

When they chuse and elect their Prince, they meet to∣gether in a large field, and then they set him a stately Throne richly guilded, placed in the view of all that are then present, and falling downe before him, they pro∣claime all after this sort, and with one consent. Wee be∣seech, we will, and command, that thou beare rule over us. Then their new King which is chosen answereth: If you will have this done of me, it is necessary, that you be ready to doe all that I shall command you: When I call▪ to come: and wheresoever I send, to goe: and to commit and put the whale rule into our hands: when they have answered, Wee be ready; he saith againe, Therefore my word shall bee my sword; then all the people clap their hands with great re∣joycing. Then the Noble men take him from the Regall Seat, and make him to sit softly upon a Cushion, or Car∣pet upon the ground, saying thus: Looke up, and acknow∣ledge God; and looke downeward to the Cushion whereon thou fittest: if thou dost governe and rule well, thou shalt have all things according to thy deire: But if thou dost ill, thou shalt be brought so low and so bare, that this small Cushi∣on whereon thou itest, shall not be left thee. At which say∣ing, they adjoyne unto him his dearest and best beloved wife, and lifting them both up with the Cushion, they salute them as their Emperour and head.

Then to such as be present at this Ceremony, of other Nations, he commandeth gifts to be given them out of hand: there is also all the treasure and jewells which the

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late deceased Emperour left, wherewith this new Empe∣rour rewardeth every Noble man; and that which remai∣neth he commandeth to be kept for his owne use. The Seale that hee useth to seale with hath these words ingra∣uen about it: God in heaven; and Chuithuth Cham on the Land; the strength of God in heaven, and the Emperour of men on earth. He himselfe speakes not to strange Em∣bassadors, nor come they at any time in his sight, except they, and their presents which they bring with them, have bin first aired certaine daies. He giveth his answer by some of his meanest Noble men, to whom, when, and how long soever he speaketh, they ought to give eare upon their knees bowed, and so attend; and they that deliver the Emperours minde, dare not erre so much as in a word.

As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his death, in in∣closing or interring quicke in a Vault neare to his Tomb,* 1.47 one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to goe serve him in paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the vulgars superstition, who religiously feast upon the Corpes of their aged parents, and then doe burne their bones into ashes, giving them such a buriall as wee give our witches; for indeed the wormes come short a∣mong the dead Tartars of their food.

Being arrived in Croko or Crocavia,* 1.48 the Capitall City of Poland (though of small importance) I met with di∣vers Scottish Merchants, who were wonderfull glad of mine arrivall there, especially the two brothers Dicksons, men of singular note for honesty and wealth. It was my luck here, to be acquainted with Count du Torne, the first Noble man of Boheme, who had newly broke out of prison in Prage, and fled hither for safety, Matthias then being Emperour, against whom he had mightily of∣fended, in boasting him in his bed-chamber with hard

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and intollerable speeches; saying to Matthias in his face, and before his wife the Empresse: Loe, there is the right hand that helped to put the Imperiall Crowne on thy head, & behold now there is my foot shall strike it off a∣gain. This fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes, to discourse and beare him company, for then hee had but onely one follower that came post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very familiar in his carriage: At last his train and treasure comming with many more Bohemian Barons, and Gentlemen his friends, I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina, where the Judges of Poland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at War∣sow, the resident place for the King Sigismond,* 1.49 who had newly marryed the other sister of his former wife, being both sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour: A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than for a Christian Prince, or Shepheard.

But it is no matter, Pope Pauls Quintus gave him li∣cence, and in that liberty, a wilde passage to purgatory: who, when dead, that incestuous guilt will be royally pur∣ged; loe there his pontificall absolution.

Between Crocavia, and Warsow, Lubilina lyeth halfe way; it is a hundred Plonian miles, or French Leagues: Here I found aboundance of gallant rich Merchants my Country-men, who were all very kinde to me, and so were they by the way in every place where I came; the conclusion being ever sealed with deep draughts, and God be with you.

Poland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in Horse-men, and populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar and manly gentry, and a rvidous vulgarity: They are all, for the most part, of square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great

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thighes and legs, grim, and broad faces, and commonly their shaven heads are finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked Shables: for they, and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thicknesse the biggest and gros∣sest people the world affordeth.

The foile is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this Country is become the most fruitfulst place of We∣sterne Europe, for all sorts of graine, besides Honey, Wax, Flax, Iron, and other commodities; And for auspicuous∣nesse, I may rather terme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the youths, and younglins of Scotland,* 1.50 who are yearely sent hither in great numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in cloathing, feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse of her best things; besides thirty thou∣sand Scots families, that live incorporate in her Bowells. And certainly Poland may bee termed in this kind to bee the mother of our Commons, and the first commence∣ment of all our best Merchants wealth, or at the least mos part of them.

And now ceasing to peramble through any more par∣ticulars of this familiar Nation to us, I was kindly trans∣ported from Warsow upon a Waggon to Dansicke, being fifty Leagues distant, with a generous young Merchant William Bailey, my kinde Country-man, to whose cour∣tesies I still rest thankfull.

Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three Weeks space, insomuch that my grave and Tombe was prepared by my Country-men there.

Neverthelesse, in end (it pleased Almighty God) I re∣covered my health, and then imbarked for Alseynure in Denmarke, where being better convalessed, I recour∣sed backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem: where, after five or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse

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like to returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made haste for England.

At last finding the opportunity of an English ship belon∣ging to Ratcliffe, we hoysed saile, & set forward through the Sound or Beltick Sea, for Alseynvere againe: Whence, after three dayes abode, bidding farewell to that Town and Castle, we coasted the scurrile and rocky face of Nor∣way, at two severall parts, but not without great stormes, and contrary winds; yea, and once finally indangered with a threatning Shipwracke, which with good luck we happily escaped.

These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seventh day the windes favouring us, we safely arrived at London, from whence I first began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregrination.

Magnum virtutis principiumest, ut dixit paulatim exer∣citatus animus visibilia & tranitoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhue, cui patria dulcis est, fortis autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus ver, cui mundus exilium est.

The end of the Second Booke, of my Second Travailes.

Notes

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