The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica Perfited by three deare bought voyages, in surveying of forty eight kingdomes ancient and modern; twenty one rei-publicks, ten absolute principalities, with two hundred islands. ... divided into three bookes: being newly corrected, and augmented in many severall places, with the addition of a table thereunto annexed of all the chiefe heads. Wherein is contayed an exact relation of the lawes, religions, policies and governments of all their princes, potentates and people. Together with the grievous tortures he suffered by the Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ... And of his last and late returne from the Northern Isles, and other places adjacent. By William Lithgow.

The first Part.

SEe Rome discover'd, Italy made plaine, The Roman Library, a golden gaine: Hunns old Parthenope, with Venice met, And strong Brundusium in Ottranto set: Times rich Antiquities displayd abroad On circling Cume, Avernus lying odde: And Lorets Chappell, foure times bin transported On Angels backs, from Nazareth detorted; Where for discourse on this false forged Lady, To tend you with inveiglins, shall be ready: Thus piece and piece, from soyle to soyle I'le goe, And now beginne, the end will deeper grow.

IT was a saying amongst the Ancients, that thrice happy and blest was that Kingdome, when Old Men boresway, and ruled the State; and Young Men travailed abroad: The first by long expe∣rience prudently to execute Judgement; and the later by sight and knowledge of forraine soyles

and Lawes, growing more judicious; might when come to Age and Preferment, the more facily, and dexteriously exhibite Justice at home. But what shall I say to these moderne and dissolute times? when by the con∣trary meanes Travaile is slighted, Government abused, & insinuating homlings thrust in high Offices, incapable of them; being pratling Parrots, and sounding Cymballs, who convert sound Judgement and Justice to their owne greedy respects, and selfe mercinary ends; turning their chiefest felicity to avaritious ambition and vaine-glory, and their sweetest fortunes to their belly and their backe. O miserable and effeminate age! when vertue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensuall vice every where exalted: Nay, Ruffian Pandors, by hopefull youth and prodigall Gallants are now Cloathed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best merits and highest deserts of rarest Spirits, are neither looked to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake, of their valorous designes, let them thinke upon latter passages, not worthy to be thought upon, and they will finde this future Caveat to stand needfull, Hoec olim meminisse juvabit. So like∣wise now, every Capri-cullion from Caesar to the Pascorell, can crowd and chaw from his warbling waspishnesse, this stinging censure of absurd untruth, that Travellers and Poets may lye, and lye by authority, which they themselves performe at home without leave.

By which traditionall concession, I being absolue in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the World, a mungrill to both; may have a lawfull (unlawfull) liberty assigned. Any marvaile? if men in this kind be so injuri∣ously censured, when the very Gospell it selfe, by per••idi∣ous Atheists, Formalists, Sophisters, Romish-Rabines, Nul∣lifidians, and Schismaticall Sectaries, is quartered, mang∣led, and rejected; such be the Satanicall opinions of this

Hell-borne age; whose confused conceites, blasphemies, incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings, so pricked at, and wounded by the vipe∣rous murmurings of miscreant villaines, as though their Royall and just lives were the meere inordinate paternes of all impiety, and lewdnes. Sith therefore the sacred Scrip∣tures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiasticke columes; yea, the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus di∣versly taxed, and vituperously calumniated; can preventi∣on in me escape the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury? No, I have had already the assault, and newly prepa∣red patience proofe to receive more; wrought by the pier∣cing hammer of nineteene winters, as many Summers dear bought toyle. Let venome-thundring-Criticks contumeli∣ously carpe, infernall fire-brand Cerberus barke, and the Hell-prepared off scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have a heart can smile at their backe-biting Ma∣lice, a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes, and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their blinde absurdities with reason. As for Chamber∣complements, whose vast insides, like to the vaults of wa∣sting Strombolo, are become thred-beare, having their out∣sides onely adorned with rich ornaments.

Such serving Cyphers, cypher childish censures, And shallowscal-patch'd pates, have fore-bald tonsures, Yet touch a C. flat in his face he'le start As though a Dame had grac'd him with a— Whose wrings, winkes, whose curious smiles, and words, And scraping feete, lost blandement affords: Whence pride and lust become two servile Mineons, To top his thoughts with false and fond opinions:

Then happy they who least frequent a Court, Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport.

To such bellowing Caves, winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd up Comedies, clouted complements, stolne phrases, and lip-licked labours, of Lampe-living spirits, to such hollow Tombes, I say a tush for their kindnesse, & I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous lack∣judgment of emulating Clouds, No Courtiers. And as con∣cerning the impostrate quagmires of this abortive Age, wherein so many Simonaicall Matchevilians, mercinary parasites, and arch-betraying Sicophants live, vindicating themselves excessively upon the advantage of time, I insuf∣ficient I, to dive into such bottomlesse businesses, bequeath them onely to their owne ••••pining Consciences, just trials, and ignominious rewards. To satisfie the World in my behalfe, as touching my Travells, I sincerely protest, that neither Ambition, too much Curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought, from the bubling breath of breathlesse man (whose defective censure inclineth, as instigation or parti∣ality moveth his weake and variable opinion) did expose me to such long perigrinations and dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands conjecture the cause, as many the manner; tenne thousand thousands the effect: The condition reserved I partly forbeare to pe∣netrate in that undeserued Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance, moderate discretion inserteth si∣lent patience.

The mansuet Cup, the gods consuetly drunke, In me involv'd, strait hony-gald it sunke: That sweet Ambrosian Nectar, soundly wrapt In my lockt Closet, suspitious Envy trapt;

And fierce-ey'd Iealousie, wing'd with wind Pierc'd staring Argos, turn'd his hundred blind: Mycene fancy fraught, Lusts fond all armes, Cros'deye-stard Sparta, rapt with Phrygian charmes, And teare-rent Sophyre, Synon-like betrai'd, What votall oathes, loves sterne fort, ne're bewraid But high bred drifts, the stormy Fates, grim night, And gloomy Hellespont, rob'd Heroes right: As Illions destiny, forc'd Numidias Queene, To gore a Scepter, a Diadem in teene: So haplesse I belov'd, O passion strange! May as amaz'd, admire, that time, this change. I chang'd a Wolfe, once for a Tusked Bore, And changing Beast for Beast, triumph'd the more: Straind to assume, in counter cumbiat breath, A dying life, revert in living death: Translate it so, my Metaphor is such, That Time, nor I, nor Fortune can avouch: Thus passion whirling in a cloudy vale, I trancing flye, I fall, I hovering scale: And whilst from Phleg'ran fields the weirds me call, I in Elizian plaines amforc'd to fall; Wherein some flowry faire enamild ground Ile place my Tombe, mine Epitaph shall sound Of traine-shut sluces, of the Thespian spring, Where chatring Birds, Dodonian trees doe sing: And mild Hydaspes streames doe gently flow, There shall my Lesbian Layes, sad Liticks show. And where the Botean Roses strow the Hall, Where flot-glass'd Nymphes, the Circe-fled Greeks enstall; There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's staind, Whom foule affection prey'd, and Lucre gaind; Load with the filth of dallying Lust and Sin,

Where bloudy murther, like a Thiefe crept in; Yet shall the spotlesse HEART, triumph in truth, When worth reaps fame, and vertue conquers youth. And crown Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian Bayes, With more then Lawrell praise, immortall rayes. Than brass-brow'd Fiends, accurst by Minos doom, Flee Fairy flight, to Pluto whence you come; And taste Phlegeton, Lethe, court Proserpine, Stern Radamanth attends, such stinking vermine; There Hippolitus, slain Pirothous stay Neer t' Acheron, (all faithlesse Lovers way) To welcome Fiendly, fright Eremiall guests With flame-flash'd firebrands, sulphur scorching tasts: Chain'd fury-brangling, in remorslesse pain, Where Belzebub, and Lucifer remain. In this umbragious Cell, there lurks a hound To bear•• Sarpedons Scepter; help to sound Your Cleopatran clamours; and I think The Ferrier Charon, makes such wretches drink Vpon the Stygian banks. Then gnashing Spirits That howling waile, Hels inexpugnate merits: Where's all your Gentry? for I dare conclude: That Vertue's better born, than noble blood: This epitomiz'd Epilogue, I send To them who best can censur't, there's an end.

But by your leave let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my male-contents past, and these im∣portunate Designes thereupon ensuing: And thus (have I) in the late dayes of my younger yeeres beene grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more then disastrous inju∣ries over-clowded, O heavy under-prop'd wrongs. But hath not the like accident befalne to man before? yea; but ne∣ver

the like condition of murther: Nay, but then prepon∣derate seriously this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding Wolves, facily devoure, and shake a peeces one silly stragling Lambe? yea, and most certaine, that unnawares, the harmelesse innocent; unexpecting evill, may suddenly bee surprized by the am∣bushment of life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wandring, and un∣constrained exile? I answere, that being young, and with∣in minority, in that occurrent time, I was not onely invei∣gled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest powers, then living in my Country, to submit my selfe to arbitrement, satisfaction and reconciliation. But after∣ward growing in yeares, and understanding better the nature of such unallowable redresses, and the hainous∣nesse of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to se∣clude my selfe from my soyle, and exclude my relenting sorrowes, to be entertained with strangers; than to have a quotidian occular inspection, in any obvious object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action, might from an unsetled ranckour bee conceived. O! a plaine demonstrate cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evill, is a flying to grace; and a god∣ly patience is a victorious freedome, and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answere; mine eyes have seene the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping foes are trampled under foot; while I from strength to strength, doe safely goe through the fiery tryall of calamities. My consolation ari∣sing from the eternall dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I correct: And to say my part in my soules experi∣ence,

I never find affliction fall on me Without desert, for God is true and just: Nor shal it come, and without profit be, For God is good, as mercifull I trust. Then welcome all afflictions sent from God, He whom he loves he chastneth with his rod.

And as one of the Ancients speaketh well, Adversa cor∣poris, animae remedio sunt, aegritudo carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curat: The Affliction of the body, is wholesome Physicke for the soule: it woundeth the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certain it is, that the Lord in chastising his owne doth often move the wicked Reprobates of his wrath, to bee the instruments of his correcting hand. I could invo∣lume as large a Discourse upon this heart-grieving pro∣ject, as upon the late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour, and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine; being in quality, though not in quanti∣ty alike. But constantly containing my selfe within the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator, which in a part belongeth not to the Creature; I may sigh to this World, as sorrowfull Aeneas to his Dido.

Infandum Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.

Thou wouldst, I should renew my former griefe To speake of sorrow, helplesse of reliefe: He melts in woes, that uttereth griefe with words, Whilst deepest streames the greatest calme affords.

But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose, the na∣ture of man, by an inward inclination, is alwayes inqui∣sitive of forraigne Newes; yea, and much more affecteth

the sight and knowledge of strange, and unfrequented Kingdomes, such is the instinct of his naturall affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes to∣gether; but Travaile hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the impression of understanding, experi∣ence, patience, and an infinite treasure of unexperimable vertues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the World the govern∣ment of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and Princes; the secrets, manners, customes, and religions of all Nations and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfacti∣on to the home-dwelling man, of these things he would have seene, and could not attempt. Travell hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients, than it is now with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiogra∣phers, and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of States, and the fashions of farre Coun∣tries, would be an endlesse taske for me briefely to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest Region of the Earth, but dare not ••ndertake the dangers of sight, the chargeable expences of a Tributary journey, the hard indurance of flint stones for a soft Feather-bed, the extre∣mities of thirst, nor the parching heate of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to bee a humide Coverlet to their tender skinne, with innummerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Iuno, would by a meere imagination, run out the sleeping course of an endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped is by a deer bought knowledge, as it were, a small content∣ment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant taste, of a sweet-seasoned sowre, and all in all, what I found, was more then ordinary rejoycing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights.

But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, to

come to the reall adventure: After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after surveighing all Ger∣many, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low Countries from end to end; I visited Paris, where I remai••ed ten months. Divers contestations have I had about the equality of Lon∣don and Paris, in quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than this paralell, I conclude thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of Lon∣don (besides their universall commerse) is more of value, than the better halfe of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of the argument. Paris I confesse is populous, a masse of poore People, for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall denne of Theeves, and a confused multitude: where contrariwise, London is adorned with many grave, prudent, and provi∣dent Senators, civill, well-taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed City on the whole face of the earth; as well by night, as by day, and nothing infe∣riour in quantity to it.

FRom Paris (in the the yeare of God 1609. March 7) I set forward, being brought three Leagues on my way, with a number of my Country gallants, young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smith-field, now Esquire of his Majesties body, with divers other Gentle∣men: where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies, and farewell bid on both sides, I bequea∣thed my proceedings to God, my body to turmoyling paines; my hand to the burthen, and my feete to the hard bruising way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alpes, sith it is manifested unto many in this Iland, both by sight and report, I would shunne, so farre as possible I can, all pro∣lixity

of knowne, and therefore unnecessary discourse.

Although I have a large reason, having cross'd the Alpes at sixe severall parts, onely in the one place, I meane to comment upon Italy in generall. Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorize some rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainefully leaped over the new wals; and was once the mistris of the Uni∣verse for her Triumphs and Antiquities, but is now onely the Carkasse of the other, of which she retaineth nothing but her ruines; and the cause of them, her sinnes.

Rome which Romulus first founded, contained these two mountaines, Capitolino, and Palatino, with the val∣ley lying betweene both Hills; having three Ports: the first was called Trigonio, because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount Palatin: The second Pan∣donio, because it was alwayes open, and for the com∣modity of the passage, it was called the free Port: The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of Euander who dwelt there: It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat.

Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height; the Gothes, a base and unknowne peo∣ple, displaying their banner against this glorious and imperiall City, in the end razed, and subverted their Pal∣laces, equalizing the walles with the ground. After the which detriment, and overthrow, the late subdued Ro∣mans, recovering their ruinous habitation, were inforced to withdraw the situation of the Towne, a little more downe-ward, in Campus Martius, close by the bankes

of Tibris; and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings to re-edifie their new dwelling places.

Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva, Tanta{que} res paucis, pascua bobus erat. Where Rome now stands, was sometimes desart woods, And soyle to feede, some few•• found bestiall goods.

And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Na∣tions, the Epitome of the world, the Kingdome of Mars, and the seven headed soveraigne of many Provinces. The seven hills whereon she stood, and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the towne, are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventino, Esquiline, Coelio, and Quiraneno. Which certainly doe demonstrate the whoore of Babylon, sitting on the Beast with seven Heads, and cannot be understood but of Rome, being buil∣ded on these seven Hills: having a correspondence to se∣ven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven severall Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictators, Emperours, and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romans, this City was never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should goe to Warre, if ever the Gauls came againe; with whom they fought not for dominion, but for their owne preservation: But since it became pontificall, it hath beene made a prey to all Barbarous Nations, and never was besieged by any that tooke it not.

The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome, is not unlike to Iordan and Tagus; yet not so bigge as ei∣ther of them, being all three of a troubled and muddy co∣lour: But it is exceeding outragious, & often menaceth to

drowne the whole Mansions, as grieving to grace the Walls of such a wicked and imperious a place: who having lost her former preheminent glory, and domination over the world would not alledge and ascribe a second prero∣gative over the soules of men, the Heavens, the Hells, the Silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings: the former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword, the latter by presumption, Ava∣rice, insinuation, and absurd lies.

I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Katharine, of Siena, who being stricken in devotion, went to vene∣rate Rome, accompanyed with a goodly traine; and ha∣ving visited all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relicks there, for the space of five dayes: At last she came to take view of the Popes Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarking the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants: She saw nothi••g but ab∣homination, prophannation, and irreligious living, and worser than in Rome it selfe: Whereupon suddenly, the next day she departed for Siena, being an hundreth miles distant; pittifully bewayling her journey, and the mise∣rable livers she saw in Rome. Protesting alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death, that the Wind never came from the East, blowing Westward to Siena, but shee thought the filthinesse of the Popes Pal∣lace, and the beastlinesse of Rome, ever stunke in her nose.

This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extra∣vagant disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement the eighth was Crowned Duke of Ferrara, auno 1589. and that same night hee returned to Rome, Tyber waxed so proud of his arrivall, that impetuously inunding his bankes to make him welcome, hee overwhelmed the bet∣ter

halfe of the Town: And if it had not been for the infi∣nite charges of the Pope, and desperate toyle of the peo∣ple, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie, had absolutely subverted and carryed away the rest of the Ci∣ty. The like inundation was never seene of Tyber, as af∣ter this Coronation, portending, that as the first Go∣morah was destroyed by fire, so this second Sodome should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills, joyning with the Alpes Apenine: whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles; dis-burthening it selfe in the Sea Medi∣terrene at Ostia twelve miles from Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up, to stoppe the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, least the City should be surprised on a suddaine. By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare, Rome is shamefully defrauded of Shipping and forraigne trafficke: and if it were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the Inhabitants (besides the Iews, and Curtezans, which are the greatest imple∣ments of the other third part) it would become the most miserable Towne in Italy.

And notwithstanding that for the space of 12 miles round about Rome, there are neither Cornes nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage, or Cultinage, save onely playne and pastoragious fields; intermingled at all quarters with ancient Watch-towers, being an old policy of the Ro∣mans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enemies in∣somuch that at my first view of Rome, I imagined the peo∣ple were all famished, or in danger of famishing.

But by your leave, being once entred the City, I found abundance of all things necessary for life, at so easie and gentle a rate, that never a Town in Europe hitherto could shew mee the like. The common Wine that is drunke in

Rome is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano, Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrimae Christi, the teares of Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping Wine, till I found my purse begun to weepe also; and if time had not prevented the sweetnesse of such teares, I had been left for all the last miserable mourner. As for the place where the Pilgrimes finde one Dinner, called the Popes Table, it is thus: there is a certaine low roome at Saint Peters palace, and without the gate, where every day at our nine of the clocke, there meet 21 pilgrimes; 14 from the Trinitie, one having a bullet for all, and seven from Saint Peters Peni∣tentialls: where being received, the seven Jesuite Pil∣grims get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served, each of them having four dishes of meat, be∣sides bread and abundance of wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper, which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company come no more there. They are daily served with a very venera∣ble Prelate, and a few other serviceable Priests, but for the Popes presence with them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoyld by a drunken Dutch-man about 60 yeares agoe, who in presence of the Pope gave up a∣gaine his good Cheare and strong Wines, with a freer good will then they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grew angry, notwithstanding the drunken fellow cryed through his belching throate, Thankes Holy Father, Deere Holy Father, God blesse your Holinesse.

Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also recite some decayed Monuments thereof, which I have seene: The speciall object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to this day, is the Tem∣plum omnium De••r••m, but now, omnium sanctorum, buil∣ded

in a rotund••, and open at the top with a large round, like to the Quire of the Holy Grave. And a pretty way from this, are the remainants of that Ancient Amphithe∣ater beautified with great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height, and a Mile in compasse; the reason why it was first devised, the Ghosts of the slaughtered Sabines may testifie. To be briefe, I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexan∣der, and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill, like unto Mount Cavallo, that was made of the Potters sheards at one time, which brought the Tribute gold to this Impe∣riall Seat: the seven Piramides, some whereof, during her former glory, were transported from Aegypt: The high and small Statues of Peter and Paul, the Castle St. Angel. which Adrian first founded, standing now in a mode∣rate circumferent height, with incircling battlements, and their doubtfull transported Reliques from Ierusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked, some whereof were frivilous, some ambiguous, and some fa∣mous.

Neare to Mount Palatin, and the decayed Temple of Romulus, I saw the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria, Liberatrice Dalla piene di Inferno, The deliverer from Infernall paines, as Venus was the Censolatrix of amorous paines.

Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy Spectacle, which was the Library of the Ancient Romans, being licentiated to enter with two Gentlemen, Sir William Carre, and Mr. Iames Aughmuty, my Country-men, where when I was come, I beheld a world of old bookes, the first whereof, was an infinite number of Greeke Bibles, subscribed with the hands of these Holy Fathers, who (as

they say) translated them out of the Hebrew tongue.

I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein hee treateth of the soule, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments of Galen, for the diseases and infirmities of man: The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Aencidot of Virgil, the Saphicke Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarke, Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius, Cato, Hippocrates, Iosephus, Pythagoras, Diodorus, Siculus, Euse∣bius, St. Austine, St. Ambrose, St. Cyprian, St. Gregory, & likewise the workes of other excellent Philosophers, Di∣vines and Poets: all wrote with their owne hands, and sea∣led with their names, and manuell subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first ancient writing which was upon leaves of Trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barkes of Trees, with strange figures, and unknowne Let∣ters, that was brought from Aegypt: for the Aegyptians first devised the use thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligato∣ry writings of Emperours, Kings, and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be Registred by the next beholder.

Still left untold, something there must be seene, For them, who trace our feete, with Argos eyne: Yet let them stay, and take this verball note, They who would better write, must larger quote.

Bidding adiew to my company, and this Library, I lon∣ged to view the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of St. Peters Chu••••h: The matter was no sooner conceived, but I went to the doore, yet affraid to enter, because I was not accu∣stomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such a San∣ctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulo∣sities, I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore, I espyed the portrayed Image of S. Peter

erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brazen Chaire. The fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they goe straight to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his sencelesse body, kisse his feete, and every one of his severall toes: insomuch that those his comfortlesse feete are growne fiery red, while his body, save his breasts, remai∣neth brazen blew: and yet for sooth some of their learned Rabincs will not have this superstition, but an hum∣ble commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring favour of intercession, whilst the ere∣cted Idoll (interum) receiveth all their superfluous abho∣minations of diurnall worship. Next, they lay their heads under the sole of his right foote, and arising, rub their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall; more then though it were a living creature.

O wonderfull and strange spectacle? that these onely titular Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans, to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands. Woe and shame bee unto you all blinde Hereticall Papists; Why should you make to your selves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brasse, Iron, stone, earth and tree? And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with a superstitious reason, alledging, you doe it onely in remembrance, where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance: May not the prohibi∣tion of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law, which abso∣lutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandement in two; confound the errour of this Idolatry, ingrafted in your hardned hearts.

What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse? or what comfort in the devices of handy-crafts-men; Alas, no∣thing but eternall sorrow & condem••••tion. This was one

of the lamentable errors I saw in the Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes or Li∣caonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honor of Paul and Barnabas, they rent their Cloaths, and ran in among the people, crying, and saying; O men, why doe you these things? we are even men subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of man; yet when they are dead, the Romanists will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What unworthy fained Traditions and Superstitious Idolatry? What strange new devising trickes they use, to plant idle mona∣steriall Loyterers? How many manner of wayes these bel∣ly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade their lives? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into, practi∣sing even unnaturall vices, I meane of their wrongfully cal∣led Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall crew, of these pervers'd Iebusites, no heart can expresse; nor the most eloquent tongue can sufficient∣ly unfold. Whose luxurious lives are vulgarly promulga•• in this Hispanicall Proverbe:

Vnnas tienen de gatto, y el habito de beato, El cruz en los Pechos, y el diabolo en los hechos. They have a Cats clawes, and a blest Saints weed, The crosse on their breasts, the Divell's in their deed.

But for feare of Excommunication from that Antichristi∣an Curtezan, I dare not persevere longer herein: al∣though I can; yea, and so truely bewray their all-corrup∣ted estate, that I need no information of any Romane No∣vice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all the Papists in Brittaine had the like eye-witnessing approbation as I have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would heavily bemoane the terrible fall

of that Babylonish whoore, which in prophane estima∣tion) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usu∣ally doth in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father, Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest or villany a Paplst committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the Limonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non captat ovem sine lana.)

And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations, adjoy∣ned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thou∣sands, lesse, or more yeares. The period of Time, after eight and twenty dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne Country-men, the chiefest of whom, was Robert Mo∣phet, a Iesuit borne in St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon, and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to speake truth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old Earle of Tyrone, who hid mee secretly for three dayes in the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streetes and ports of Rome were laid forme, who conveighing me a∣way at the fourth mid-night, and leapt the walles of Rome with mee, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxster, now dwelling in Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Ty∣ron can justifie the same, my custody and mine escape be∣ing both within his knowledge. Yet I may justly affirme) it in these parts a man can finde no worser enemie then his Nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it,

and at home none more false nor deceitfull than a bosome friend.

Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.

And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe mee from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From thence bound East-ward, I vi∣sited Naples, the commendations of which, I revolve in this verse;

Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comites{que} Duces{que} Most noble Naples, breeds but Dukes and Earles, And gallant Knights, and Ladies load with Pearles.

Amongst many other things neare to this City, which in the conclusion of this Historicall discourse be more parti∣cularly expressed (were Lacus Avernus, Sibillaes Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and Cuma, where banished Aeneas, from Troy and Carthage arrived) I saw the Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne Grotto, that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia, being passable for Coaches, and a halfe mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon:

In Mantua from mothers wombe, I first conceived breath; Parthenope reserve the Tombe, My Sepulcher of Death.

Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first taught the people agriculture: The more impropri∣ated names were Hesperia, because it is scituate under the evening Starre Hesperus: Latium, because Saturne driven from Creet by his Sonne Iupiter, hic latebat abdi∣tus; and Ae••otria in regard of the aboundance of wines it produceth. This Country was first said to bee inhabited

by Ianus, Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the tribes of the Samnites, Sabines, Laurentani, and Taren∣tines: The second Plantation was by Evander, and cer∣taine other Arcadians, who being banished from their na∣tive dwellings, seated themselves here: Thirdly, by the Trojanes, under the conduct of Aeneas, who forsaking the delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here, & were kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daugh∣ter Lavinea, Aeneas married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent; and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that Dardan stocke, as glorying in such a famous pedigree. The length of Italy is nine hundred Italian miles, though some allot a thousand, it is false, for I have trod foure severall times from end to end of it on the soles of my feete, even from Vallese, the first Towne in Piemont, discending mount Sy∣nais from La Croix South-ward, which secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Biancho in Calabria, hemb'd in with the gulfe Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other, it being the furthest promontore of Italy.

So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base ignorance, make England longer then Scot∣land in their Mappes, when Scotland, by the best judge∣ments and mine owne better experience, is a hundred and twenty miles longer than England: It is a deocular errour; which I could wish to be reformed, as in the conclusion of this worke I shall more credibly make cleere.

The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof, bending along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa, or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower, and narrower, till it shut out it selfe in two hornes, Calabria, and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth not above foure∣teene

English miles from sea to sea, the gulfe Tarento (which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes) deviding the two hornes. On the North side of Terra di Otranto, lyeth Apulta, bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitfull soile for cornes; & West-ward thence boundeth terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum Napolitanum. These foure territories make up the intire Kingdome of Naples: The chiefe Cities of which, are Naples, Iapua, and Saler∣no, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Couzensa, the chiefe seate of the President, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio Allauria, and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, or Otranto, the which Towne being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in such a feare, that for a whole yeare, and till the expulsion of the Turkes, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brunducium beautified with a famous haven.

And in Apulia, are Manferdo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio, whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of Haniball, against the Romans. The Church-land beginnes beyond Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposite to Gayetta, the West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome, neare to Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di Roma, or the Churches patrimony, imbra∣cing both seas, till it runne to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di Coffine, & Aquacupa∣dente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and Popes land. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice, from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium; and thence it reacheth along North-west, by the Venetian gulfe, to the uttermost bounds of the Dut∣chy of Ferara, being thirty miles from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty miles, whose breadth is

narrow, and where it joyneth with both Seas, it is but sixty miles. The Church-land is divided in foure terri∣tories, Compagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viter∣bo, Narni, Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavec∣chia, being the chiefe Cities: Next, the Country of Om∣bria, or Ombrosa, lying betweene Rome and Loretta, the chiefe Cities are Spaleto, from whence it is reckoned a Dutchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotall University, Fulino, and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the Angell appeared to his mother, telling her, that shee should conceave and beare a Sonne, should be the Champion of Iesus, & hard by they shewed me the Crib or stall where he was borne, with many other foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable: every way re∣presenting his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona being principall, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino, Reginati, Aguby, and Parasiticall Loretta. The fourth is Romania, lying along toward Ferrara, betweene the Sea, and the Hills Appenine.

This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania, is disjoyned from Marca di Ancona, by the Duke of Vrbins lands, which division by the sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and Sinigalia, all Sea-port Townes; the other of this Dutchy are Vrbino, and Castel-durante. The chiefe Towne in Romania, is Ravenna, which for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Popes Legate remaineth, the other bee Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara, and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories.

Tuscana or Aetruria lying South from the middle of

this Church-land is 100. miles in length, and as much in breadth, I meane of that belonging to the great Duke: Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queene Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa and Siena: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little common∣wealth of Luca: The chiefe City is Florence, whose streetes are divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa, Siena, Pistoia, Empoli, Ligorne, and Arretzo.

From Tuscany to the West, and North-west, lyeth Lumbardy, intituled the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian territory, of which I will speake in the owne place) in foure principalities, Milaine, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Ci∣ties be Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro and Allessandria di Paglia. This Pro∣vince is mainely watered through the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when hee came tumbling downe from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Della Guarda, and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it.

West from Lumbardy lyeth Piemont, between it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles and Cowie. South from Piemont and Lumbardy, lyeth the Riviera of Genoa, along the Me∣diterrean Sea: the territory of which is narrow, but above one hundred miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and mountanous, yet producing good store of Oren∣ges, Lemmons, Figges and Ches-nuts, whereon the Mountaineri onely live, being either ros••ed, or baked in

bread: the chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria, are Genoa, and Savona. Italy lying in forme of a legge, is on both sides invironed with the Sea, save onely the North-west part, and roote thereof, which is devided from France and Germany, by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Griso∣nean, Zingali••n, and Tirolian Alpes, which bend North-east, and South-west, inclosing it from the body of Eu∣rope from Sea to Sea. Italy of all other Regions under the Sunne, hath beene most subject to the vicissitude of For∣tune, yet not a little glorying in these famous Captaines, Fabius Maximus the buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and Caesar; for Venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The soyle is generally abundant in all things ne∣cessary for humane life, and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but wonderous deceitfull in their actions, so unappeaseable in anger, that they coward∣ly murther their enemies rather than seeke an honourable revenge, and so inclind to unnaturall vices, that for besti∣ality they surpasse the Infidells: the women of the better sort are slavishly infringed from honest & lawfull liberty: They of the middle ranke somewhat modest in carri∣age, witty in speech, and bountifull in affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and greedy; and lastly the worser dregs, their impudent Curtezans, the most lascivious harlots in the world. This much in ge∣nerall for the briefe description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.

In the meane while, having alwayes a regard of my ha∣sty dispatching from Christendome, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the Sea side, Campagna di Roma, anciently Latium, and Ombria, now the Dutchy of

Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in a Marca of Ancona, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leave, let mee lay downe before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplifie my former dis∣course, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as yet was never Englished in our language.

Before I came neare to Loretta by tenne miles, I over∣tooke a Caroch, wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who when they espi∣ed mee, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travell alone? After I had to these demands given satis∣faction, they intreated mee to come up in the Caroch, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body unweari∣••d. At last they perceiving my absolute refusall, present∣ly dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my company: and incontinently, the two young unmar∣ried Dames came forth also, and would by no perswa∣sion of me, nor their familiars mount againe; saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for devotion s••ke) in pilgrimage, and for the pennance enjoyned ••o them by their Father Confessour. Truely so farre as I could judge, their pennance was small, being carried with Horses, and the appearance of their devotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led cap∣••ive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.

When the morning Starre appeared, wee imbraced the way marching towards Loretta, and these virmillion Nymphs, to let mee understand they travelled with a cheerefull stomacke, would oft runne races, skipping like

wanton Lambes on grassie Mountaines, and quenching their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approa∣ching neare the gate of the Village, they pulled off their shooes and stockings, walking bare-footed through the streetes, to this tenne thousand times polluted Chappell▪ mumbling Pater nosters, and Ave mariaes on their beads. When they entred the Church, wherein the Chappell standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds of bare-footed blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands: thinking themselves not worthy to goe on foote to this idely supposed Nazaretan House, like to this saying;

Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat, Quam m••vet interius religionis amor. To Lorett people haunt with naked feete, Whom religion moves with loves feruent sprit.

Unto this falsely patronized Chappell, they offer yearely many rich gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chaines, & Rings of Gold and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, Goblets, imbroudries and such like. The Jesuiticall and Penitentiall Fathers receive all, but who so enjoy all, let Camera reverenda Romana, grant certification to this Loretan avariciousnesse, who fill their coffers twice in the yeare therewith. My foure Pil∣grimes having performed their ceremoniall Customes, came backe laughing, and asked why I did not enter? But I as unwilling to shew them any further reason, deman∣ded what the matter was? O (said the Italians) Iurando pe••il Cieloe Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the House where∣in the Virgin Marie dwelt in Galile: and to the confirma∣tion of these words shewed me a Booke, out of which I extracted these Annotations.

This Chappell they hold it to be the house, in which

Mary was annunced by Gabriel, and wherein shee concei∣ved Iesus, by operation of the holy Ghost, & in the meane time, that devotion waxed scant amongst the Christians of the Primitive Church in the Holy Land: strangers Ty∣rannizing over the territories of Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes King of Persia, Sarazens, and Haran••one King of Aegypt; it came to passe in the yeare of our Lord, 1291. and in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the foundation, was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from N••zareth in Gallilee, to Tor∣salto in Slavonia: the distance being by sea and land 17. hundred Italian miles. O! a long lift for so scurvie a Cell. And in the morning, Shepheards comming to the place of pastorage, found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in hast, and told Saint George Alessandro, the ••rior of T••rsali••▪ who in that meane while was lying sick. He being stricken in admiration with these newes, caused ••imselfe to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar, and ••alling in a marvellous trance, the Virgin Mary by a hea∣venly Vision appeared to him, saying after this manner.

BEhold, thou hast often pierced the heavens, with invoca∣tions for thy reliefe, and now I am come, not onely to restore thee to thy health, but also to certifie thee, that thou doubt nohting of this House; for it is holy in respect of mee, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 chast immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to ••e the Mother of the most High. It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna conceived me, nourished mee, and brought mee up, in singing Psalmes, Hymnes, and Praises to the glory of God, and also I kept in this roome the blessed Infant Iesus very God, and very Man, without any grievance or paine brought him up with all diligent observation: And when cruell Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertise∣ment

of the Angell, I, and my husband Ioseph, who never knew my body, fled with him downe to Aegypt. And after his passion, death, and ascension to Heaven, to make a recon∣ciliation of humane nature, with the Court Coelestiall: I stayed in this house with Iohn, and the other Disciple••▪ Who considering after my death, what high mysteries had beene done into it, Conse••rated and converted the same to a Temple, for a commemoration of Christs sufferings, the chiefe of Martyrs. Also that resplending Image th•••• seest, was made by Saint Luke (my famil••ar) for eterni∣zing the memory of my portraiture, as I was alive, by the commandement of him, who doth all things, and shall re∣serve this sacred Image to the worlds end: That Crosse of Cedar, which standeth at the ••••de of the little Westerne win∣dow, was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not, because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth: And that Shelfe whereon my Li••∣nen cloaths, and prayer Bookes lay, Let no person come neere it: For all these places are sanctified and holy. Wherefore my Sonne, I tell thee, awake, and goe recite the same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirme thy beliefe therein, the Queene of Heaven giveth thee freely th•• health.

Frier Alexander being ravished (say they) with the Vi∣sion, went and reported it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Countrey. And incontinently he sent this Prior and other foure Friers to Nazareth, whereby hee might know the truth thereof, but in that journey they dyed▪ The Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second time to transport the house over the gulfe of Venice, to a great wood neere by the sea side, in the territory of Riginati in Italy, being 300. miles distant. Which, when the country-men had found, and remarking

the splendor of the illuminating Image, dispersed these ••ewes abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seene what great miracles was daily done, by the vertue of this Chappell, imposed then to it a name, Our Lady of myracles. A little while after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in the woo•• many theeves and cut-throates, who rob'd and murthered the Pilgrimes. Which innocent spilt-blood, pricking their ••itifull Lady to the heart, she made the Angels transport it ••he third time, and set it on the top of a little Mountaine, ••elonging to two brethren in heritage, being forty foure ••iles distant from the former place. But they upon a day ••uarrelling, and discording about the utility of the ••fferings to this House, the Angels did remove it the ••urth time, and placed it in a highbroad way, where it ••••ndeth unremoved to this day, which place is now ••••led the Village of Loretta; and from the last Station 〈◊〉〈◊〉 miles distant. This was confirmed by the Papall au∣••••ority to be of an undoubted truth, after one hundred ••nd fifty three yeares deliberation. Loe, as briefly as I ••ould, have I laid open to thy judicious eyes, the trans∣••ortations, Originall, and Papisticall Opinions of Lo∣••etta; protesting I have added nothing to the Authours ••escription, but onely collected these speciall Warrants; ••••i••••ing other infinite foolish toyes, conceived for their ••••ind-folded credulity.

This Chappell, or rather dwelling House, as they ••ould have it, stood alwayes alone, till of late, that Pope ••lement 8. caused built a glorious Church over it: And ••ere by accident I encountred with a very courteous and ••iscreet Gentleman, Iames Arthur, whose company was ••o me most acceptable: Our acquaintance being first ••ade at the beginning of the same voiage upon the moun∣taines

in Ferrara in Paese du Burbon, and bound to visite Venice, in his returning home for Scotland, as well as hee had done Rome and other Cities of Italy.

Now I remember heere of a prettyjest, for hee and I going in to see the inravile•• Image with sparrets of Iron, and musing on the blacknesse of her face, and the rich∣nesse of her gowne, all set with precious Stones and Dia∣monds; and because she is sightlesse, foure Lampes of oyle they keepe alwayes burning before her face, that the peo∣ple may see her, because she cannot see them. There was, I say a young lusty woman hard by my elbow, busie at her Beades, who with the heate of the throng, and for lacke of ayre, fell straight in a sound: the women about her gave a shoute, and cryed that our blessed Lady had ap∣peared to her; whereupon she was carried forth and laid upon the steppes, that discend from the Chappell to the Church-floore, five hundred more came to visite her with salutations of Saint, Saint, O ever blessed Saint. Now it was Friday in the fore-noone, and the woman having travelled all night, and to save charges of fish, had eaten a cold bit of her owne meat privately in the Taverne, with halfe a Buckale of red Wine: The people more admiring this imaginary heavenly trance, than the reliefe of the woman; at last said I, brother Arthur, I will goe open yonder womans breast, and I did so: and holding up her head before all the people, there sprung a flood of vin∣garbo downe the Alablaster stayres, intermingled with lumpes of ill-chew'd flesh: Whereat the people being amazed, from a Saint swore she was a Divell: And if my friend and I, had not made hast to carry the sicke woman from the Church to a Taverne, doubtlesse they had sto∣ned her to death; and here was one of their miracles.

Another time, comming backe from my second Tra∣vels

in Affricke, it was my lucke to stumble in heere a∣gaine, where I saw an old Capouschin Frier conjuring the Divell out of a possessed woman, who had stayed there, and two men keeping her above eighteene moneths, being twice a day brought before the Chappell. The Frier stood up before her, the two men holding both her armes; and said, laying his formost finger on her brow; In nomine Patris, &c. Io vi cargo a dirmi, per quale cagione, ha vete posseduto l'anima di questae poveretta; & vatine via ••o ti adjuro, alla quei luogi, dionde tu sei venuto: I charge thee to shew mee for what cause thou hast possessed the soule of this poore wretch, and I adjure thee to goe backe unto those places from whence thou camest. Meane while the woman stood dumbe and silent for the space of a quarter of an houre, not being usuall before: the people gave a shoute, and cry'd the Divell had left her, whereat hee that held her right arme did let it fall downe by her side: but by your leave, in the twinckling of an eye, the Divell in the woman gave the Frier such a rattle in the face, that he was stroke downe upon his backe among the people: and if it had not bin that shee was borne downe with strength of hands, she had torne the silly old Conjurer in peeces: cry∣ing, O false and dissembling knave, pretendest thou to have power to cast out evill Spirits when thou thy selfe is in a worfer case than I, and all thy profession too; Hell, hell, is your reward.

This is another of our Lady of Lorettaes Miracles, though many moe I could recite: as for any more vertue of this Cymberian Image, I have knowne sicke folkes loaden with all kind of Diseases, Criples, lame, maimed, deafe, dumbe, and numbers possessed with evill spirits lye here before this Lady, till I returned againe from Asia and Affrick, that same way: imploring, fasting and penitentially

weeping for health; But alas poore soules, they lost their labour. When they had both spent all their meanes, and perhaps the poorest of them three dayes attendance, and forced to my knowledge to returne againe to their seve∣rall ••tations with sorrowfull and comfortlesse hearts.

O strange and wonderfull frailty of men! what damna∣ble imperfections domineere over our brain-sicke know∣ledge? Sathan, thou Prince of darkenesse, hast so over∣seiled the dimmed eyes of their wretched soules, that not∣withstanding of Gods eternall Word, ordained to call them (through the spotlesse blood of Christ Iesus) to be the heires and adopted Sonnes of Salvation: yet thou all abhominable enemy of mankind, overthrowest both their spirituall and naturall understanding in a bottome∣lesse Ocean of darke ignorance; promising to thy obdu∣rate souldiers, to build Castles in the Ayre; and contrary∣wise is busie, digging downe dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternized guests, with horrible torments, and ne∣ver ceasing flames of everlasting fire. What wilfull-hear∣ted man can bee so apt to beleeve, that our blessed Lady had such estimation of morter and stones, as to have (al∣though shee had, had power) caused Angels to transport a rotten house so often? No, I say, beleeve it who so will; questionlesse, the Iudgements of God in the truth of his all-seeing Iustice, shall reward their too credulous minds accordingly: then shall they know their foolish and su∣perstitious errours.

But now to leave them with their Idolatry to stones, mettall, and Images, I come to their blasphemies against the sacred Deity: Looke to the workes of Bernardini de Busti, Bonaventure, and Fereolus Lucrius, how shameful∣ly they derogate the glory from God, and attribute all grace, mercy and omnipotency, to the Virgin Mary. So

Ludolphus and Chrysostome affirme, that Velocior est non unquam salus invocato nomine Mariae, quam invocato no∣mine Domini, vinci filij ejus: Men may oftentimes be soo∣ner saved by calling on the Virgin Mary, than on Christ. Omnia quae Dei sunt, Mariae sunt, quia mater & sponsa Dei illa est, all things which are Gods, are the Virgin Maries, because she is both the Spouse, and the mother of God, saith a Rabbin of theirs: and as many creatures honour the Virgin Mary, as honour the Trinity, saith another: So, Im∣perio Virginis, omniafamulantur & Deus, all creatures and God himselfe, are subject to the Virgin Maries command. And in their Bonaventure Ladies Psalter, Monstra te esse matrem, & coge illum peccatoribus misereri, Shew thy selfe a Mother, and compell him (viz. Christ) to have mercy upon sinners. Infinit citations could I produce, of such like intollerable attributes, besides the dividing of her in 1000. stiles, viz. The Lady of the wines, Lady of the oyles, Lady of the cornes, Lady of the woods, Lady of the Mountains, Lady of the meeds, Lady of the sheepe and goats, Lady of the springs, Lady of the fire, Lady of the shepheards; from earth-quakes, thunder and fire-flashes, Lady of the Angels which is at Asisi in Ombria, Lady of miracles in divers places, Florence, &c. Lady of life in Bullogna new∣ly found, Lady of all noble Ladies, and Nunnes, Lady of the galley-slaves, Lady of shipwracking seas, Lady of ri∣vers and waters, Lady of young children, and orphanes, Lady of all consolation, Lady of pure Virgins, Lady of distressed widdowes, Lady of the sicke, and women with child, &c. Besides the powerfull Lady of Mount∣serrata in Catalogna, the aforesaid miraculous Lady of Loretta, and the clementious Ile-ruling Lady of Trapundy in Sicilia, &c. Thus they make it manifest▪ that Shee, that is Lady of the one, is not Lady

of the other; each of them having divers gifts, divers graces; divers powers, as they alledge, divers Chappells, divers offerings, and divers pilgrimages, according to the severall Seasons, eminent or past-perills, peculiar in∣vocations, and the particular neede of each family, man, woman, and living creature.

Whereby it plainely appeareth, by their dividuall ac∣knowledgements, shee is neither superiour in power, uni∣versall in power, nor equall in power to God: for if she were, one Chappell, one name, one place, one pilgri∣mage, one offering would suffice for all. They chatter over on their beads ten Ave Maries to our Lady, and but one Pater noster to Christ: They make their Orations thrice a day in the streets to the Virgin, and none to God: they say God divided the Kingdome with the Virgin, re∣serving to himselfe Justice, granted to his mother mercy, whereby if any man be aggrieved with Gods Justice, hee may appeale to the Court of her mercy.

But to conclude their blasphemies, and horrible lyes, bles∣sed is the blessed Virgin Mary (the Mother of Christ accor∣ding to the flesh) above all women for ever and ever.

Leaving both this and Loretta, and returning to my pur∣pose, Iames Arthur and I imbarked at Ancona (15. miles from thence) in a Frigato; this City of Ancona, in the time of Trajanus the Emperour, flourished mightily in same, & reputation, and yet a gallant place to this day.

Contemnunt omnes Ancona moenia Turcas. This Sea-strong Towne, set on a Promontore, Defieth the Turkes with its defensive shoare.

It glories not a little in giving name to the whole pro∣vince lying betweene Ombria and Romania, and is situate on a Hill that shooteth into the Sea like a Promontore, having a faire Haven built by Trajanus. It hath but one

gate, whence arose the Proverbe Vn proto nel Ancona, u•• Petro nel Roma, eu•• Torre nel Cremona, One gate in Anco∣na, one Peter in Rome, and one Steeple in Cremona being exceeding high.

Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkeable thing, save the two Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the dayes of Octavius Caesar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions sustained, and shoaring along with them, the Duke of Vr∣••ines three sea-port Townes, Sinigalia, Fanno and Pesaro, we sayled by the mouth of Rubicon, called now ••issatello which Iulius Caesar passed over, against the Ordinance of the Senate, and afterward seazed upon Rome, putting ••ompey to flight) I saw the place, where the bloody ••attell was fought betweene the French and Spaniards, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Domini 1512. but the victory fell to the Gaules, ••th the losse of nineteene thousand men on every side, ••••d they have erected singular Monuments there, in a per∣••tuall memory thereof. After three dayes sayling (ha∣••ing passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the ••eat Venetian shippes) wee arrived at St. Markes place 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Venice.

Mine associate and I, were no sooner landed, and per∣••iving a great throng of people, and in the midst of them great smoake; but we begun to demand a Venetian ••••at the matter was? who replyed, there was a gray Frier ••••rning quicke at S. Markes Pillar, of the reformed Order 〈◊〉〈◊〉 S. Francis, for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes ••ith child, and all within one yeare; he being also their ••••ther Confessor. Whereat, I sprung forward through 〈◊〉〈◊〉 throng, and my friend followed me, and came just to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme fell flat∣••••gs in the fire▪ the Frier was forty sixe yeares old, and

had bin Confessor of th••t 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of 〈…〉〈…〉 yeares: Most of th••se young Nunnes were Senators daugh∣ters; and two of them were onely come in to learne ver∣tue, and yet fell in the midst of vice.

These fifteene with Child, were all recald 〈…〉〈…〉 their fathers Pallaces; the Lady Prioresse, and the rest of her 〈◊〉〈◊〉 crew, were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice. The Monastery was razed to the ground, their Rents were allowed to be bestowed upon poore families, and distressed age, and their Church 〈◊〉〈◊〉 bee converted to an Hospitall▪ Most part of all which M. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and I saw, before ever we either eate, dranke, or ••ooke our lodging in Venice: And I cannot forget, how after all this, wee being in hungred, and also 〈◊〉〈◊〉, tumbled in by chance, All 〈…〉〈…〉, the greatest 〈◊〉〈◊〉 in all Venice, neere to which the Friars bones were 〈◊〉〈◊〉 burning: And calling for a Chamber, wee were nobly and richly served: After dinner they laid up our budgets and our burthens, and abroad went we to see the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Night come, wee sup'd, and sup'd alone; the 〈…〉〈…〉 I begun to remarke the grandeur of the Inne, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 was time that we were gone: I demanded our 〈◊〉〈◊〉 what was to pay? hee answered, Vn s••udo all 〈◊〉〈◊〉 par 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ripasto, a Crowne the dyet for each of us, being ten Iule••s or five shillings 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Mr. Arthur looked up∣pon me, and I laugh'd 〈…〉〈…〉 a word our dinner 〈…〉〈…〉 foure Crownes, whereat my companion being disconten∣ted▪ ••ad the Divell be in the Friars ballocks, for wee had paid soundly for his Leachery: many like deaths, 〈…〉〈…〉 causes▪ and worser have I seene in all my three 〈◊〉〈◊〉, if time could permit me to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 them. But from this thou mayst play the learned Geometrician till 〈◊〉〈◊〉

findest more; and opportunity give thee occasion.

Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis▪ This Towne most rich, to dare the Maine is shut, In Neptunes bosome, and sea-streeted cu••.

Venice is a Garden of riches, and wordly pleasures the chiefe flowre of Common-weales, and the perfect mir∣r••ur of civill and politicke Governement. This sequestrat City, is situate in the bosome of Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his maine body, which invironeth the Iland.

The Common-we••lth of Venice, containeth Marcha del Trevisa, which lyeth in Lombardy, containing these Cities, Trevisa, Padua, Vincenza, Verona, Brisc••a, the se∣cond City for bignesse and beauty in all Lombardy, Ber∣••••mo, Chizza and Rovigno. Friuli, formerly called Fo∣••••m Iulij, lyeth in the straight betweene the East end of the ••lpes, and the sea Adriaticke, in length fifty, & in breadth forty miles. It hath beene often subject to the vicissitude of ••ortune: The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 gulfe, and Palma lately built by the Venetians 158••. ••eing the most impregnable, and best fortified towne in ••••aly: Furili was a Dukedome, founded by the Lombards 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth: After∣••ard Luitprandus one of the Dukes, envying the encrease of the dominion of Venice, made war against them, which ended in the losse of his owne country. The rest bee Istria, a part of Dalmatia, the Ilands of Candy, Corfue, Zante, ••ephalonia, Serigo, Tino, Valdi Campare, Lesina, and o∣••her of lesser note.

The Venetians howsoever of old, they have bin great ••arriers; they are now more desirous to keepe then in∣••arge their Dominions, and that by presents and money,

rather than by the sword of true valour; so that whatsoe∣ver they loose by battell, it is observed, they recover a∣gaine by treaties. The Venetians are said to have discen∣ded of the Hennets in Asia lesser, who assisting the Trojans, and Troy being lost, their King Pterilimene slaine, they fled away with Antenor, and ariving in this part of Italy seated themselves, till the report of the Hunnes designe a∣gainst Italy, made them, (avoyding the storme before it fell) to draw into these Ilands and Marishes, where now it standeth. It was first founded, and begun, Anno. 411. March 25. being distant from the maine land five miles, and defended against the fury of the sea by the banke, ex∣tending to fifty miles in length: through which in eight places, there is passage broken for small boates, but no way for vessels of any burthen, save at Malamucco, and the Castle of Lio: Yea, and so dangerous, that there is nei∣ther out-going nor in-comming, without a Pylot, which maketh the City unconquerable.

This City is seven miles in compasse, and from so base an abject beginning, it is growne (as it were) to bee the chiefe bulwarke of Europe: The Duke of this Adriaticke Queene, espouseth the sea, every Ascension day, by ca∣sting a golden ring into it. Which stu••titious ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was granted, when hee fled to Venice for succour, being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa: And the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Em∣perours sonne, restored the Pope, and for a reward, was honoured with this espousall.

The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy, ly∣ing along the foote and South side of the Alpes, amoun∣teth to sixe score & five miles: the breadth whereof in the plan••re is narrow, but stripeth larger among the hills and lakes, and very populous.

The applauding Italian saith, that Europe is the head of the World, Italy the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of Italy; and indeed, it is the strongest, and most active part of that powerfull body: Whereby it would ap∣peare, that in the last subversion of the latter Monarchy, the Romane Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venic••; whose peace hath procured the plenty, and whose Warres the peace of Christendome. The Lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of the best Gentry to marry, least the number increasing should de∣minish the dignity: yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures, and for their sakes allow publicke stewes. The Iewes here, and in Rome, weare red, and yel∣low hats for notice sake, to distinguish them from others: which necessary custome (would to God) were enjoyned to all the Papists here in England, so should we easily dis∣cerne them from the true Christians, And finally, to dis∣course upon the provision of their magnificent Arsenall, Artillery, Munition and Armor, the devision of streetes with channels, the innumerable bridges of stone and tim∣ber, their accustomable kind of living, apparrell, curtesies, and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Gal••e∣ries, Gallies, Galleasses and Galliouns, were a thing impos∣sible for me briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the decorements of their beautifull Palaces are so well knowne, and their generall Customes by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in the World.

Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and reviewing this City and circum••acent Isles, and my purpose reaching for Greece and Asia, as hee was to recrosse the snowy Alpes, my muse remembreth our sad departure.

Now friendly Arthur le••t me, courts the maine Of pleasant Lombardy: by Trent againe Beares through the Alpes, in his 〈◊〉〈◊〉 wayes, And past Bavaria, where Danub••o strayes. He fell on Rhyne, and downe these curlings came; Then ship'd for Albion, neere to Ro••terdame: And coasting Is••s, view'd that royall court, Where once Appollo did in glory sport; Fraught with Ambrosian Nec••ar; crown'd his dayes O•• Pindus tops, to have Mecenas praise. This light obumbrat, Arthur courts the North, And serv'd a noble Earle of ancient worth Full eighteene yeares: till death that darts our woe First smote his Lord, and then his Countesse so: Now they are fled, and he is left alone Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one; Which if to his desert such fortune came, A Princely service might his merit clayme. Where wishing both his fate, and worth to be I'le Venice leave, and visite Lombardy.

In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lom∣bardy, and visited the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrar••. The commendation of which is celebrated in these verses:

Extollit Paduam, juris studiam, & medicinae. Verona, humanae d••t singula commoda vitae. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 loculos ferrarea ••errea 〈◊〉〈◊〉.

In P••dua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue, and found there a Country Gentlemen of mine, Doctor Iohn Wed••erburne a learned Mathematician, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 now dwelling in Moravia, who taught mee well in the Language, and in all other respects exceeding friendly to

me. Padua is the most melancholy City in Europe, the cause onely arising of the narrow passage of the open streetes, and of the long Galleries and darke-ranges of pil∣lars, that goe alwhere on every hand of you, through the whole streetes of the Towne: The Schollers here in the night commit many 〈◊〉〈◊〉 against their privat adver∣saries, and too often executed upon the stranger and inno∣cent, and all with 〈…〉〈…〉: for beastly Sodomy, it is as rife heere as in Rome, Naples, Florence, 〈…〉〈…〉

The Second Part.

NOw step I o're the gulfe, to th' Istrian sh••are, Dalmatia, Slavonia, Ilyria, more,

Valona, Albana, Epyre in Greece, And Morea fat, where Iason hurt his fleece: The Adriaticke, and Ionean Iles, And Lesinaes great monster; Athens styles; With Lacedemon sackt, and Sparta rent From ancient worth: Arcadia poore and shent: Our gulfe Lepanto, the Aetolian hight, And all these coasts, till Candy come in sight.

AFter my returne from Pad••a to Venice & 24. daye•• attendance devasted there for passage, •• imbarked in a Car••••esalo, being bound to Zara Novo in Dalmatia; scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we incountred with a deadly storme at Seroc••e Lenante. The Master had no compasse to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation; because they use commonly, ei∣ther on the South or North sides of the Gulfe, to hoise up sayles at night, and againe breake of day they have full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hill•• of the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary, we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.

Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny: Cato af∣firmeth it was called Istria of one Isir••, but by the mo∣derne Writers▪ L'ultima Regione di Italia. By 〈◊〉〈◊〉 it is said to bee of length 100. miles, and forty large, but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large.

Istria hath on the South Friuli and the Sea: on the West Stria: on the North Carniola: on the East the Gulfe Carnar•• or Quev••ro. It is thought the Istrians were first a people of Colchis in Natolia, who by King Aet••s being sent to persue Iason and the Argona••ts (who had stolne the golden Fleece and his daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or feare of the Kings anger

durst not returne, and so remained in this Country, where they enjoyed a long freedom, til by many incursions of pi∣racy, still molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes, Anno 938. & afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo about the yeare 1200.

That part which bordereth with the Sea, belongeth to the Venetians, but the rest within land holds of the Em∣perour, and the Arch Duke of Austria. The Country it selfe aboundeth in Cornes, wines and all kinds of fruites necessary for humane life. Neere to this Haven wherein wee lay, expecting roome windes, I saw the ruines of old Iustinopoli so called of Iustinian the Emperour, who buil∣ded it upon an Iland of eight miles length, and three acres broad: and to passe betwixt the City and the firme land, there was seven bridges made. It was anciently strong, but now altogether decayed: the principall Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humag••, Pola, Rouigo.

The windes favouring us, we weighed Anchors, and sayled by the Iles Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called Istriennes: which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces. About mid-day I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foote of which, the ancient City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small ships may lye. True it is, this Port is not much frequen∣••ed, in respect of a contagious Lake neere to it, which in∣••••cteth the Ayre with a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the Castle di Oriando, the Arke Iriumphant, and the reliques of a great Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, Iulia pietas; and it standeth in the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course, we ••assed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro.

This gulfe or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by 〈◊〉〈◊〉 50. miles within land, at the narrow entry where∣of,

it hath a part of Istria on the West, and Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians use to keepe alwaies certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay, on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks: In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna, Gradisca, and No∣vagard, the chiefe Cities of Croatia: the people which in∣habit these Townes, and the adjoyning Country are cal∣led Scoks, a kind of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, couragious and desperate: Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skenes, carrying Targets at their girdles, and long Gunnes in their hands: they are mar∣vellous swift on foote, and daily annoy by land their neighbouring Turkes with inrodes, fetching away great spoyles and booties, of Cornes, Cattell and Horses: and by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines, did ever and often vexe the Venetian commerce, in their owne domesticke waters: the great losses which from these incursive peo∣ple the Venetians had from time to time received, and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes in their Trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound by former Articles of peace, to keepe harmelesse within their owne gulfe from all Christian invasions, was the onely and urgent cause that moved the Venetians to wage Warre with Ferdinando then Duke of Grasse, and now Emperour, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and losse of men: for the Towne being strongly fortified with walles and munition, and ••000. Socks within to de∣fend it, would often at the neare approaching of the ene∣my make a salley forth on horse and foote, giving many miserable overthrowes to the Assailants: to the which detriments, for twenty dayes space I was a testator, being after my returne from Affricke in my second travells, as 〈◊〉〈◊〉

I was going for Hungary, Moldavia, Valecchia and Tran∣silvania, taking this Country in my way: And one mor∣ning at the breake of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of Towne, make bloody havocke of 3000. of the Venetian army: This part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, aboun∣••ing in cornes, wines, bestiall and pastorage, though then by lawlesse, and turbulent souldiers, it was miserably de∣faced.

The whole number of these Scoks that are able to car∣••y Armes, bee not above sixe thousand men: they are wonderfull kinde to strangers, which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better sort their Captaines and Commanders, and onely for the affinity of Scoki, and Scoti, although I dare sweare, there is little or none at all betwixt the two Nations.

Having passed Carnaro, wee sayled close by the Ile San∣••••go, called formerly Illrides: this Isle is of circuit foure ••••ore, and of length thirty miles. Our fresh water wax∣••••g scant, and the winds falling out contrary to our expe∣••••ation, wee sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of Osero, ••hich is a safe haven for ships and Gallies. This Osero ••as firstnamed Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Cap∣••••••ne Absertus, who came from Colchis, accompanied ••ith many people, to bring backe Media to her carefull ••••ther: whose purpose being frustrated, staied still, and ••••habited this land. A fit opportunity obtained upon the ••••ghth day, we arrived in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia; 〈◊〉〈◊〉 there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seeke ••••ssage for Ragusa.

By the way, I recall the great kindnesse, of that Dal∣••atian Master, for offering my condition, I found him ••••ore then courteous, and would have no more but a ••••lfe of that, which was his bargaine at Venice. Besides

this, hee also entertained me three dayes, with a most bountifull, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but I giving him absolute and constant answers, appeased his imagined sorrow.

True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make every thing terrible unto us, and we will not, because we dare not; and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit our selves to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: and some like sottish weakelings, that give the reines of their government into the hands of their Wives or Ser∣vants, thinking then they buy their peace when they sell it; thus doe they grow upon us, I meane ignorance and sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place, being just so strong, as we are weake. And as contrary newes delivered at one time, maketh one to heare with joy, and remember with sorrow; even so an un∣resolved man, in high and heroicke designes, though see∣ming forward is distracted heere, set one feare there, and rent asunder every where with the flashing frights of des∣peration: But a constant resolution can couragiously support all things; Vbicunque homo est, ibi beneficio locu•• est. And congratulating this Skippers courtesie, I bad farewell to his counsell.

Zara is the Cappitoll City of Dalmatia, called of old Iadara. The inhabitants, are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlaine, in the behalfe of Venice. The walles whereof are strongly rampired with earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth: which are above forty Cubits higher than the Walles and Bulwarkes; standing in the foure severall corners of the City.

There lye continually in it, a great Garrison of Soul∣diers to defend the Towne and Citizens, who are main∣tained by the Duke of Venice; for hee is Signior thereof. They have indured many invasions of the Turkes, especi∣ally in the yeare one thousand five hundred and seventy, when for the space of foureteene moneths, they were dai∣ly molested and besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: if the Turkes could win this place, they might easily command the Adreaticall Seas, in regard of that faire Haven which is there, to receive Ships and Gal∣lies; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull be∣cause of their safeguard.

Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to Trafficke with them; but when they enter the gates, they must de∣liver their weapons to the Corporall of the Squadron company: neither may they stay within all night under the paine of imprisonment. Dalmatia was called so of Mau∣ritius the Emperour. The foure principall Provinces whereof are these, Atheos, Sexebico, Spalleto and Tragu∣rio. A part of which belongeth to Venice, another part to the arch Duke of Austria, and a third unto the Turkes. Zara is distance from Venice two hundred miles.

When the wandring night was chased from the inferi∣our Ilands, by the recoursing day, and the Sunne had im∣parted his brightnesse to our under neighbours, and our dreames ready to possesse the Theater of the fancy, the wearisome creatures of the world declining to their rest; and under shadow of the pale Lady of the night; even then, from Zara I imbarked in a small Frigot, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Marriners: who sometimes sailed, and sometimes rowed with Oares: in our way we past by the Ile of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough for the inhabitants, and kept by a Gentle∣man

of Venice. It lyeth in the mouth of the gulfe Nare••∣to, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia; many fondly conceive that these two Kingdomes are all one, but I hold the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by ancient Authors: having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I saw upon my right hand, a round Rocke of a great height, in forme of a Piramide; being cognominated by Easterne Mariners, Pomo, anci∣ently Salyro, for the good Faulcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the middest of the Gulfe betweene Slavonia and Italy, and not habitable.

A little beyond that Rocke, I saw the three Iles Tre∣miti: the chiefest whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Iles of Diomedes, who was King of Etolia. They are right opposite to mount Gargano, now called Saint Angelo, and distant from the maine land of Apulia in Italy above nine miles.

This Mount Saint Angelo standeth in Apulia, bending in the Sea with a large promontore, it is in compasse ninety miles. Neare to this Mountaine was that great battell fought, betweene H••niball and the Romanes: the over∣throw fell to the Romanes, under the conduct of Paulus Aemilius, and other Consuls, of whom were slaine forty two thousand and seven hundred; and if Haniball had fol∣lowed this victory, hee had easily that day subdued the Common-wealth of Rome: which made Maharball Cap∣taine of his Horse-men rebuke him thus, Vincerescis Han∣niball victoria uti nescis.

Thou canst o'recome thy foes in bloody fight, But can not use the victory aright,

The like said Casar of Pompey, when hee lost the first Battell they fought at Pharsalia in Greece; O Pompey, Pompey, If thou hadst knowne how to have used the victo∣ry,

as thou hadst it, thou mightest have beene this day Lord of the whole World.

So to our lamentable memory, may that last battell bee Recorded fought in Hungary, betweene the Turkes and Christians, of whom Maximilian Duke of Isbrugh this present Emperours Vncle was Generall: who having had a nocturnall victory, and the Infidels put to the flight, they remaining in the Campe more busie about the spoyles then their owne safety; the Turkes returned againe before day, the Christians being disordered with booties and the ravening of their whores, they put them all to the edge of the sword: O miserable confusion! Little better might I speake of the battell of Lepanto being abus'd even in the using of it, and that glorious victory no ways followed, as good fortune had given them an awfull opportunity: for Don Iohn of Austria their Generall had a greater mind to feaze upon the Ile of Corfu, and to robbe Venice of her liberty, then to prosecute with vengeance the brave be∣ginning of so notable a victory; and yet his treachery was discover'd, and by the Venetian Generall speedily disap∣pointed, to his eternall shame both wayes.

The poore Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starving Boate, ••ith extraordinary paines (for wee had three dayes calme, which is not usually seene in these Seas) were enforced to repose all night at the barren Ile of St. Andrew: This Ile is of circuit foure miles, but not in∣habited: the excessive raine that fell in the evening, made us goe on shoare, to seeke the coverture of some rocke; which found, wee lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies, for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our distressed bodies, with fa∣vourable windes at the Garbo e ponente, we set forward, and about mid-day wee arrived in the port of Lesina, of

which the Ile taketh the name.

This Ile of Lesina is of circuite, a hundred and fifty miles, and is the biggest Iland in the Adriatick Sea: It is exceeding fertile, and yeeldeth all things plentifully, that is requisite for the sustenance of man. The City is un∣walled, and of no great quantity, but they have a strong fortresse, which defendeth the Towne, the Haven, and the vessels in the Roade. The Governour, who was a Ve∣netian, after hee had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three times to his Table, in the time of my five dayes staying there: and at the last meeting, hee reported the story of a marvellous mis-sha∣pen creature borne in the Iland, asking if I would goe thither to see it: wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented: the Gentleman honoured me also with his company, and a horse to ride on, where when we came, the Captaine called for the Father of that Monster, to bring him forth before us. Which unnaturall Child being brought, I was amazed in that sight, to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part there was but one body, and above the middle there was two living soules, each one separated from another with severall members. Their heads were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy: the belly of the one joyned with the posterior part of the other, and their faces looked both one way, as if the one had carried the other on his backe, and often before our eyes, hee that was behind, would lay his hands about the necke of the foremost. Their eyes were exceeding bigge, and their hands greater than an infant of three times their age. The excrements of both Creatures issued forth at one place, and their thighes and legges of a great grouth, not sem∣blable to their age, being but sixe and thirty dayes old;

and their feet were proportionably made like to the foote of a Cammell, round and cloven in the middest. They received their food with an insatiable desire, and continu∣ally mourned with a pittifull noise; that sorrowfull man told us, that when one slept the other awaked, which was a strange disagreement in Nature, The Mother of them bought dearely that birth, with the losse of her owne life; as her Husband reported, unspeakable was that torment she endured, in that woefull wrestling paine. I was also informed afterwards, that this one, or ••ther twofold wretch, lived but a short while after we saw them.

Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange, and almost incredible Nativity, we returned to Lesina. But by the way of our back-comming, I remem∣ber that worthy Gentleman, who shewed me the ruines of an old house, where the noble King Demetrius was borne; and after I had yielded my bounden and dutifull thankes unto his generous minde, I hired a Fisher-boat to goe o∣ver to Clissa, being twelve miles distant. This Ile of Clissa is of length twenty, and of circuit threescore miles: It is beautified with two profitable Sea-ports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent good com∣modities therein; upon the South side of this Iland, lyeth the Ile Pelagusa, a rocky and barren place.

Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragu∣••••, we sailed by three Isles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; And when we entred in the Gulfe of Cataro, wee fetched up the sight of the Ile Melida, called of old Meligna: Be∣fore we could attaine unto the Haven, wherein our pur∣pose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a suddain with a deadly strome: Insomuch, that every swallowing wave threatned our death, and bred in our breasts an in∣termingled sorrow of feare and hope: And yet hard

by us, and within a mile to the ley-ward, a Barbarian Man of War of Tuneis, carrying two tyre of Ordnance, and 200. men, seiz'd upon a Carmosale of Venice, at the first shot, she being loaden with Maluasia and Musca∣dine, and come from Candy, and had us also in chase, till night divided our contrary designes. The winds becom∣ming favourable, and our double desired safety enjoyed, both because of the Sea-storme, and of the stormy Pyrat, we set forward in the Gulfe of Cataro, and sayled by the Ile Cursola: In this Ile I saw a walled Towne, called Curzola, which hath two strong Fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for the trafficke of Merchandise they have, and also for the fine wood that groweth there, whereof the Venetian ships and Gallies are made: An Iland no lesse pleasant than profitable; and the two Governours thereof are changed every eighteene Moneths, by the State of Venice.

It was of old called Curcura Melena, and of some Corci∣ra Nigra, but by the Modernes Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by the Iles Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Ca••za Augusta, appertaining to the Republicke of Ra∣gusa. They are all three well inhabited and fruitfull, yeel∣ding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kindes of excellent fruits. It is dangerous for great Vessells to come neare their Coasts, because of the hidden shelfes that lye off in the Sea, called Augustini, where divers ships have bin cast away in foule weather; upon the second day after our loosing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.

Ragusa is a Common-weale governed by Senators, and a Senate Counsell; it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded, being scituate by the Sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest trafficke they have, is with the Genueses: Their

Territory in the firme land is not much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes; but they have certaine commo∣dious Ilands, which to them are profitable. And notwith∣standing, of the great strength and riches they possesse, yet for their better safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearely Tributary pension to the great Turke, amounting to four∣teene thousand Chickens of Gold: yea, and also they pay yearely a Tributary pension unto the Venetians, for the Iles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe, so that both by sea and land they are made tributary Citizens. The most part of the civill Magistrates, have but the halfe of their heads bare, but the vulgar sort are all shaven like to the Turkes.

This City is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of Slavonia: Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next Illiria, of Illirio, the sonne of Cadmus: But lastly, named Sla∣vonia, of certaine slaves that came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the Emperour Iustini∣nian: Croatia lying north-west from hence, is the third Province of this ancient Illiria, and was formerly called Valeria, or Corvatia. It hath on the west Istria & Carniola: on the East and South, Dalmatia: on the north north-west a part of Carindia quasi Carinthia, and Northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia, extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the River Drino in the East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountains divide also Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and on the South with Illiricum, or Slavo∣nia, on the East with Servia: and on the North with the River Savus.

The next two speciall Cities in that Kingdome, are Sabenica and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust na∣ture,

martiall, and marvellous valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right and liberty of the Vene∣an State, serving them both by sea and land, and especially upon their Galleyes and men of warre. From Ragusa I imbarked in a Tartareta, loaden with Corne, and bound to Corfu, being three hundred Miles distant.

In all this way wee found no Iland, but sailed along the maine land of the Illirian Shore: having passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo, which is a strong Fortresse, scituate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine of Solyman, starved to death foure thousand Spaniards. Having left Illiria, Albania, and Valona behind us, we sailed by Capo di Palo∣ne, the large promontore of which, extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and maine Rocke. This high land is the farthest part of the Gulfe Of Venice, and opposite against Capo di 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Maria, in Apulia, each one in sight of another, and foureteen leagues distant. Continuing our Navigation, we entered into the Sea Ionium: and sayled along the Coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdome of the Epiroles, and the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South, with the Sea Ionian: On the East with Macedon; on the West North-west, with Albania; and on the North, with a part of R••scia, and the huge Hill Haemus: Of which Mountaine Stratonicus was wont to say, that for eight Moneths in the yeare, it was exceeding cold, and for the other foure it was Winter. This long Mountaine devi∣deth also Greece from Mys••a, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of Haemus, and on the South of Da∣nibio, even Eastward to the Euxine Sea: which River parteth Dacia from Misia the superiour, the which Da∣cia being an ancient and famous Country, containeth

these Provinces, Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this Kingdome of Epyre; was the ••oble and valiant Pyrhus King, who made so great warres upon the Romans, and at last by a Woman of Argos was killed with a stone: The most valorous Captaine George Gastriot, sirnamed Scanderberg, the great terrour and scourge unto the Turkes was borne here; of whom it is recorded, he slew at divers battells with his owne hands, above three thousand Turkes; obtaining also many for∣tunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet: After whose death and buriall, his body was digged up by the Turkes, and joyfull was that man could get the least bit of his bones to preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby, so long as he kept it, he should alwayes be invin∣cible, which the Turkes observe to this day, and likely to doe it till their last day. And more,

Renoun'd Epire, that gave Olimpias life, Great Alexanders Mother, Phillips wife.

In this Country are these two Rivers, Acheron, and Co∣cytus; who for their minerall colours, and bitter tastes, were surnamed the Rivers of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrated by Apollo and the Muses, so well memo∣rized by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona, at the foote of which springeth the River Peneia, called mo∣dernly Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and kee∣ping his extreamest course through the fields of pleasure, named by the Ancients Tempi, being five miles long, and as much large, lying betweene the two Hills Osso and O∣lympus; and watering the beautifull plaine, the faire Penei∣an spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth it selfe in the Gulfe Thessolonick. This is the first kingdome of Greece, &

of a great length consisting between the west, most part of Albania, as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, & the Arcadian Alpes, which divide Aetolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it, from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Mirmidons country of Macedon, amounteth to 408. miles, lying along by the sea side, whose bredth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill Haemus above 68. miles. The chiefe Towne of Epyre, where the Kings had their re∣sidence, was called Ambracia, modernly Laerto named of a River running by it: And upon the sixt day after our de∣parture from Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.

Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull than invincible: It ly∣eth in the sea Ionian, the inhabitants are Greeks, and the Governours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer, for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This Alcino was the Corcyrian Poet, who so be∣nignely received Vlysses after his shipwracke, and of whom Ovid said,

Quid bifera Alcinoi referam pomaria? vos{que}, Qui nunquam vacui prodistis in aethere rami, Why blaze I forth Alcinoes fertile soyle, And trees, from whence all times they fruit recoyle.

This Ile was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans, Anno 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world: It lyeth like to a halfe Moon, or halfe a circle East and North: The Eastern Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St, Katerina; the second Town where∣of is called Pogleopoli: It is of circuit 120. in length 52. & 37. in breadth, and 14. miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the Ile hath the name, is scit••ate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon are builded two

strong Fortresses, and invironed with a naturall rocke: The one is called Fortessae Nova, and the other Fortezza vecchie: They are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation of the one Captaine, the other should commit any treasonable affect: And for the same purpose, the governours of both Castles, at their Election before the Senators of Venice are sworne; neither privately nor openly to have mutual conference; nor to write one to another, for the space of two yeares, which is the time of their government. These Castles are inaccessable, and un∣conquerable, if that the keepers be loyall, and provided with Naturall and martiall furniture. They are vulgarly called, The Forts of Christendome, by the Greekes, but more justly, the The strength of Venice: for if these Castles were taken by the Turkes, or by the Spaniard, who would as gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian merchants would be of none account, yea the very meanes to over∣throw Venice it selfe.

Corfu formerly Corcyra, was by some called Phaeacia, so denominate from a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have beene deflowred by Neptune. This Ile produceth good store of Wines, Oyle, Waxe, Honey, and delicate fruits.

From thence, after certaine dayes abode, I imbarked in •• Greekish Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greeks, Slavonians, Italians, Armenians, and Iewes, that were all mindfull to Zante, and I also of the like intent; being in all forty eight persons: having roome windes, and a fresh gale, in 24. houres wee discovered the Ile Ce∣phaloni the greater; and sayled close along Cephalonia mi∣nor, or the lesser Ithaca, called now Valdi Compare, being in length twenty, and in circuit fifty sixe miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes sonne, Vlysses.

From th' Ithac Rockes we fled Laertes shore, And curs'd the land that dire Ulysses bore. For Illions sake, with Dardan blood attir'd, Whose wooden Horse, the Trojan Temples fir'd.

On our left hand toward the Maine, wee saw an Iland called Saint Maure, formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is onely inhabited by Iewes, to whom Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion from Spaine: The chiefe City is Saint Maure, which not long agoe was subject to Venice. This Ile Saint Maure was anciently conriguate with the continent, but now rent asunder, and invironed with the Sea: In the meane while of our navigable passage, the Captaine of the Vessell espyed a Saile comming from sea, hee presently being moved therewith, sent a Mariner to the toppe, who certified him she was a Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to invade our Barke. Which suddaine affrighting newes overwhelmed us almost in despaire. Resolution being by the amazed Master demanded, of every man what was best to doe, some replyed one way, and some another: Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave Counsell rather to render than fight; being confi∣dent their friends would pay their ransome, and so relieve them. But I the wandring Pilgrime, pondering in my pen∣sive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Up∣on the which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slavery, I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Master, saying: The halfe of the Carmosalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading: (all which he had told me be∣fore) wherefore my Counsaile is, that you prepare your selfe to fight; and goe encourage your Passengers, promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two pieces of

Ordnance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead, and halfe-pikes: for who knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thral∣dome of these Infidels: My exhortation ended, hee was greatly animated therewith, and gave me thankes; wher∣upon assembling the passengers & Mariners, he gave good comfort and large promises to them all: so that their af∣frighted hopes was converted to a couragious resolution; seeming rather to give the first assault, than to receive the second wrong.

To performe the plots of our defence, every man was bu∣sie in the worke, some below in the gunner-roome, others cleansing the Musket, some preparing the powder & balls, some their swords and short weapons, some dressing the halfe-pikes, and others making fast the doores above: for so the Master resolved to make combate below, both to save us from small shot, and besides for boarding us on a suddaine. The dexterous courage of all men was so for∣ward to defend their lives and libertie, that truely in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as were. All things be∣low and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked in order with his Harquebuse and pike to stand on the Centinell of his owne defence, wee recommend our selves in the hands of the Almighty; and in the mean while attended their fiery salutations.

In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was the progresse of a Martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible noyse of Gally-roaring peeces. And wee in a sad reply, sent out a back-sounding Eccho of fiery flying shots: which made an Equinox to the Clouds, rebounding back∣ward in our perturbed breasts, the ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight, both with great and small, shot, (night parting us) the Turkes retired till morning, and then were mindfull to

give us the new rancounter of a sec••nd alarum. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his, to send downe an un∣resistable tempest, about the breake of day wee escaped their furious designes; and were enforced to seeke into the Bay of Largastolo in Cephalonia, both because of the violent weather, and also for that a great leak was stricken into our ship. In this fight there were of us killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two Iewes, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right arme with a small shot. But what harme was done by us amongst the Infidels, we are not assured thereof, save onely this, wee shot away their middle Mast, and the hinder part of the poupe; for the Greeks are not expert Gunners, neither could our Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boarded. But howsoever it was, being all dis∣barked on shore, we gave thanks to the Lord for our un∣expected safety, and buried the dead Christians in a Gree∣kish Church-yard, and the Iewes were interred by the sea side.

This Bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being in∣vironed with two little Mountaines: upon the one of these two, standeth a strong Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here that the Chri∣stian Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571. when they came to abate the rage of the great Turks Armado; which at that time lay in Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and had made conquest the yeare before of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.

The Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned, because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Vlysses, who excelled all other Greekes in Eloquence and subtility of wit. Secondly, by St••abo it was named D••lichi: And thirdly, by ancient Autho••

Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. The which Anfrittion, a Theban Cap∣taine having conquered the Iland, and slaine in battell ••terelaus, King of Teleboas, for so then was the Iland cal∣led, gave it in a gift of government to Cephalo. This C••∣phalo was a noble man of Athens, who being one day at hunting, killed his owne wife Procris with an Arrow, in stead of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and the other pittying his case, resigned this Isle to him, of whom it taketh denomination: Cephalonia lyeth in the mouth of the gulfe Lepanto, opposite to a part of Aetolia and Acar••ania in the firme land: It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.

The Land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet exceeding fertile, yielding Maluas••••••, Muskadine, ••ino Leati••o, Ray∣sins, Olives, Figges, Honey, sweet-water, Pine, Mol∣berry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all other ••orts of fruits in abundance. The commodity of which re∣dounds yearely to the Venetians, for the are Signiors thereof.

Leaving this weather beaten Car••oesalo, laid up to a full sea, I tooke purpose to travaile through the Iland; in the first dayes journey I past by many fine Villages, and pleasant fields, especially the Vale Alessandro; where the Greekes told me their Ancestors were vanquished in Battell by the Macedoniah Conquerour. They also shew∣ed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple, which had beene of old dedicated to Iupiter: and upon the second day I hired two Fisher men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante, being twenty five miles distant.

Here in Zante a Greekish Chyrurgion undertooke the ••uring of my arme, & performed condition within time.

The Ile of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath a City of a great length, bordering a∣long the sea side, the chiefe seat and Ile, and named Zante, over the doore of whose Praetorium, or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these Verses.

Hiclocus, odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat, Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, iura, probos. This place, hates, loves, chastens, conserves, rewards, Vice, peace, fellony, lawes, vertuous regards.

And on the top of a Hill, about the Towne, standeth a large and strong Fortresse (not unlike the Castle of Mi∣laine) wherein the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Iland. This City is subject yearely to fearefull Earth∣quakes, especially in the Months of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This Ile produceth good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Cur∣rants, Olives, Pomgranats, Cytrones, Orenges, Lem∣mons, Grenadiers, and Mellones, and is in compasse 68. Miles, being distant from the Promontore of Morea some 16. miles.

The Ilanders are Greeks, a kinde of subtle people, and great dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it were not for that great provision of corne, which is daily transported from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the inhabitants in short time would famish.

It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little Ile maketh yearely (besides Oyle and Wine) one∣ly of Currants 160000. Chickins, paying yearely o∣ver and above for custome 22000. Piasters, every Chic∣ken of Gold being nine shillings English, and every Pia∣ster

being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe of money which these silly Ilanders could never afford, (they being not above 60. yeares agoe, but a base beg∣garly people, and an obscure place) if it were not here in England of late for some liquorous lips, who forsooth can hardly digest bread, pasties, broth; and (verbi gratia) Bagge-puddings, without these Currants: And as these Rascall Greeks becomming proud of late with this levish expence, contemne justly this sensuall prodigality, I have heard them often demand the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such Leprous stuffe, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and Hogs withall: A que∣stion indeed worthy of such a female traffick, the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this, thus addicted to that miserable Ile.

Bidding farewell to Zante, I imbarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso in Morea, which of old was called Pe∣loponesus: And by the way in the Gulfe Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest City in Etolia is called Lepanto: From thence West-ward by the Sea side, is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) wee sailed by the Iles Echinidi, but by the Moderne Wri∣ters, Curzolari, where the Christians obtained the victo∣ry against the Turkes: for there did they fight after this manner.

In the yeare 1571. and the sixth of October, Don Iohn of Austria, generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto, and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian Army, convented altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all 208. Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and 25. Frigots.

After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a valiant courage to incounter with the Turkish

Armado, on the Sunday Morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the helpe of Christ, obtained a glorious Victory. In that fight there was taken and drow∣ned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty ships, Gallies, Gale∣ots, and other Vessells: There was fifteene thousand Turkes killed, and foure thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000. peeces of Ordnance, and twelve thousand Chri∣stians delivered from their slavish bondage. In all, the Christians losed but eleven Gallies & 5000. slain. At their returne to Largostola, after this victorious battell, the three Generalls divided innumerable spoyles, to their well-de∣serving Captains, and worthy souldiers.

And notwithstanding Don Iohn, led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who in the midst of that famous victo∣ry, conceived a treacherous designe, to seize upon the Castles of Corfu, under shew of the Venetian colours, which being discovered, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in his returne to Messina in Sicilia; where his Statue stan∣deth to this day.

After my arrivall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Pe∣lopenesus, I left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles, of the Ionean and Adriaticall seas, and advised to tra∣vell in the firme land of Greece, with a Caravan of Greekes that were bound for Athens.

Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchan∣dise, and greatly beautified with all kind of C••mmercers. Their chiefe commodities, are raw Silkes, Cloth of gold and silver, Silken grow-grams, Rich-Damask, Velvets of all kinds, with Sattins and Taffaties, and especially a store∣house for graine. The Venetians, Ragusans, and Marseilli∣ans have great trading with them: Here I remember, there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa or

Governour of the Towne a Turke, caused privately after∣ward upon malice to be poysoned, even when I was wintring at Constantinople, for whose death the worthy and generous Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover my Patron and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hi∣ther himselfe to Peterasso, with two Ianizaries, and a Warrant sent with him from the Emperour, who in the midst of the Market-place of Peterasso, caused one of these two Ianizaries, strike off the head from the shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also, that had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consull: And the Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople, was held in singular reputation even with the Turkes, for prosecuting so powerfully the sword of Justice, and would not shrinke for no respect, I being domesticke with him the selfe same time.

Pelop••nnesus, now called Morea, a Peninsula, is all invi∣roned with the sea, save onely a narrow straight where it is tyed to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth: which the Venetian then Lord of it, fortified with five Castles, and a strong wall from creeke to creek, which easily were subverted by the Turkish batteries, the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse, and want of men: Corinth and its gulfe, lyeth at the East end of this Istmus, and the Gulfe Lepanto on the West, divi∣ding Aetolia and Epyre: The wall which traversed this strait of Morea, was called Hexamite, five miles long: Truely it is one of the most famous destroit du terre en Europe. Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. Miles, and is at this day the most fertile, and best inhabited Province of all the Empire of Greece: The chiefe Rivers here, are Arbona and Ropheos: Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza, neare which stan∣deth

the Towne of Epidaure, wherein the Temple of Es∣culapius was so renowned for restoring of health to disea∣sed persons. It was anciently cognominate Agalia, from Agalius the first King, An. Mun. 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia, and Apia, then Peloponesus from Pelops, and now Moreah. It is divided in five territories, or petty Provinces, Laconia, Arcadia, Argolis, Miseni••, & Eliso, the proper territory of Corinth. Of which City it was said,

Hor. Let men take heed of Lais, Corinths whore, Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre.

It is said by Aeneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall trea∣tise of Europe, that divers Kings went about to dig through this Istmus to make it an Iland, namely King Demetrius, Iulius Caesar, Caius Calig••la, & Domitius Nero: of all whom he doth note, that they not onely failed of their purpose, but that they came to violent and unnaturall deaths.

But before the aforesaid Caravan at Paterasso admitted me into his company, hee was wonderfull inquisitive to know for what cause I travailed alone? and of what Nati∣on I was? To whom I soberly excused, and discovered my self with modest answers: which pacified his curiosity; but not his avaritious mind: for under a pretended pro∣tection he had of me, hee extorted the most part of my money from my purse, without any regard of Conscience.

In the first, second, and third dayes journeying, we had faire way, hard lodging, but good cheare, and kind enter∣tainment for our money, which was the Country Laco∣nia. But on the fourth day, when we entred in the hilly and barren Country of Arcadia; where for a daies jour∣ney we had no Village, but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers; and in that place it is thought the great

battell of Pharsalia was fought between Iulius Caesar, and Pompey the great.

Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso, on the West with Misenia, on the North with Achaia inferiour, and on the South with a part of Laconia and the sea: It was for∣merly termed Pelasgia, and lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Iupiter and Calisto, the people whereof did long imagine they were more ancient than the Moon.

This soyle of whom Arcas great Patron was, In age the Moone excell'd, in wit the Asse.

But because it is a tradition of more antiquity than cre∣dit, I doe rather note it than affirme it: And as men should dread the thunder-bolt when they see the lightning, so ig∣norance and Idolatry placed amongst us, and round about us, may be a warning to the professours of the truth, to take heed of the venome, lest by their Arcadian antiquity, surpassing the Moone, they become novices to some new intended Massacre, for as powder faild them, but alas, not poison! so now with policy they prevaile in all things: how long the holy one of Israel knoweth, but certainly our sins are the causes of their domineering, & our careles drooping.

In this desart way I beheld many singular Monuments, and ruinous Castles, whose names I know not, because I had an ignorant guide: But this I remember, amongst these Rocks my belly was pinched, and wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious mountaines, which bred no small griefe to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distresse, the remembrance of those sweet sea∣soned Songs of Arcadian Shepheards, which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated corps with many sugred suppositions. These sterile bounds

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being past, wee entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea, cal∣led anciently Sparta, where that sometimes famous City of Lacedemon flourished, but now sacked, and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remains. Marching thus, we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand toward the sea side, and on the sixt day at night we pitched our Tents in the dis-inhabited villages of Argo and Micene, from the which unhappy Hellen was ravished.

This cursed custome of base prostitution, is become so frequent, that the greater sort of her mercinary sexe, fol∣lowing her footsteps, have out-gone her in their loathsom journeys of libidinous wayes: shee being of such an infi∣nite and voluptuous crew, the arch-Mistresse and ring-lea∣der to destruction, did invite my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty, as the inordinate patterne of all willing and licentious rapts.

I would thy beauty (fairest of all Dames) Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move Thy eyes from Greece, to Illion cast flames, And burnt that Trojan with adulterate love: He captive like, thy mercy came to prove, And thou divorc'd, was ravish'd with a toy: He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove, And thou a Paris, swore for to enjoy: Mourne may the ghosts, of sometimes stately Troy, And curse the day thou saw the Phrygian coast: Thy lecherous lust did Priams pride destroy, And many thousands for thy sake were lost. Was't nature, fortune, fancy, beauty, birth, That cross'd thee so, to be a crosse on earth.

Some of thy Sexe, baptiz'd with thy curst name, Crown'd with thy fate, are partners in thy shame:

Helens are snakes, which breed their lovers paine, The maps of malice, murther, and disdaine: Helens are gulfes, whence streams of blood doe flow, Rapine, deceit, treason, and overthrow: Helens are whores, whiles in a Virgin Maske, They sucke from Pluto sterne Proserpines taske. Curst be thou Hell; for hellish Helens sakes, Still crost, and curst be they that trust such snakes.

Here in Argos I had the ground to be a pillow, and the world-wide-fields to be a Chamber, the whirling windy skies, to be a roofe to my Winter blasted lodging, and the humid vapours of cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished for bed of my repose. What shall I say then, the solid, and sad man is not troubled with the floods and ebbs of Fortune, the ill-imployed power of greatnesse, nor the fluctuary motions of the humorous multitude; or at least, if he be sensible of his owne, or their irregularities, or confusions, yet his thoughts are not written in his face, his countenance is not significant, nor his miseries further seene than in his owne private suffering; whereas the face and disposition of the feeble one, ever resembleth his last thoughts, and upon every touch or taste of that which is displeasant, and followes not the streames of his appetite, his countenance deformeth it selfe, and like the Moone, is in as many changes as his fortune, but the noble resolution must follow Aeneas advice in all his ad∣ventures.

Per varius casus, per tot discrimina rerum, Tendimus in latium, &c. By divers wayes, and dangers great we mind, To vi••••t Latium, and Latinus kind.

In all this Country of Greece I could finde nothing to

answer the famous relations, given by ancient Authors of the excellency of that land, but the name onely; the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time, having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No shew of honour, no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessours of the Countrey in a Principality, But rather prisoners shut up in prison, or addicted slaves to cruell and tyrannicall Masters: So deformed is the state of that once worthy Realm, and so miserable is the burthen of that afflicted people; which, and the appearance of that permanency, grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune, which alwayes plungeth the most renowned Champions, and their memory, in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.

Let the Ghosts of that Theban Epaminondas, that Mir∣midonian Phillip, and these Epirean worthies, Pyrhus, and Scanderberg be witnesses hereto; but especially, that Ma∣cedonian Alexander, whose fortunes ever followed him, rather than fled him, till his last dissolution; wherein I may say his Greatnesse rose, like to a mighty and huge Oak, being clad with the exuvialls, and Trophies of enemies, fenced with an Army of boughes, garnished with a coat of Barke, as hard as steele; dispised the force and power of the windes, as being onely able to dally with the leaves and not to weaken the root: But the Northerne winde, that strong Champion of the airy Region, secretly lur∣king in the vault of some hollow Cloud, doth first mur∣mure at the aspiring Oak, and then striketh his Crest with some great strength; and lastly with the deepest breath of his Lungs, doth blow up the roote: Even so was it with Alexander, who from a stripling came to be a Cedar, and from the sorrow of no more worlds, was soone cut off from the world he was into: For destiny is

no mans drudge, and death is every mans Conquerour, matching the Scepter with the Spade, and the Crowned Prince with the praiselesse Peasant: And in a word, there was never any to whom Fortune did sooner approach, nor never any from whom shee did more suddenly flye, than from Alexander, leaving him a cleare mirrour of the worlds inconstancy.

Now as concerning the government of Greece, termed by the Turkes Rum Ili, that is, the Roman Countrey: It is ruled by a Beglerbeg, or Bassa, this word Beg∣lerbeg imports Lord of Lords, in regard of the San∣zacks, or Subbassaes under them, who also are ter∣med Lords; which is a Barbarous pride in an ambitious stile: This Beglerbeg of Greece, retaineth his resi∣dence at Sophia the Metropole of Bulgaria, formerly Dacia, and is the most greatest Commaunder of all other Bassaes in the Turkish provinces of Eu∣rope.

All other Beglerbegs are changed every third yeare, or continued according to the Imperiall pleasure, nei∣ther may they returne from their station during this time. But this Bassa of Greece, keepeth his govern∣ment for his life-time, and remaineth most at Court: He reserveth under his command, forty thousand Timari∣ots or Horse-men, led under the conduct of twenty two Sanzacks, or Judges deputies of Jurisdictions; to wit, two in Albania, at the Townes Iscodera, and An∣colina: two in Achaia, at Delvina, and Albassan: three in Tbessalia, at Priasim, Salonica, and Trichola: two in Sparta, at Misietra and Paleopatra: three in Macedonia, at Carmona, Selistria, and Giastandila: one in Moldavia, at Acheranma: in Bulgaria, one at Sophia: in Thracia, one at Viazza: in Epyre, one at Ducagina: in Aetolia, one

at Ioanina: in Peloponesus, one at Peterasso: the rest are Vsopia, Nycopolis, Corinth, and Bandera towards the Blacke sea, and to the North-ward of Danubio, at his kis∣sing the Euxine Waves: Thus much for the Begelbergship of Greece, and the Provinces thereunto adjoyning.

Departing from Argos, upon the seventh day we arri∣ved at Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part of Pelopennesus, neare to the frontiers of Mace∣don, or Thessaly by the Sea side. It was first called Cecro∣pia, of one Cecrops, the first King thereof, who first founded it, Anno Mundi 2409. It was after mightily enlarged by Theseus, and well provided with good lawes by Solon, and lastly Athens of Minerva: In whose ho∣nour for a long time were celebrate solemne playes, called Panathanaia: Athens is now termed Salenos, and wa•• once the shrill sounding Trumpet of Mars, yeelding more valiant Captaines and Commandars than any City in the World, Rome excepted: It was a custome here, that when any man was growne too wealthy or potent, he was banished thence for ten yeares: This exile was intituled Ostracisme, because his name who was abandoned was written in an Oyster shell: Great combustions and mu∣tinies have happened betweene Lacedemon and Athens; at last it was sacked by Lysander, and her Virgin body prostituted to the lust of 30. insulting Tyrants: not long after whose expulsion, it was utterly subdued by the Mace∣donians.

And in a word, Athens being stained with intestine blood-sheds, and grievously discontented with the death of her Children; her babes were brought forth for the sword to glut upon, the bodyes of her Ancients were made as pavements to walk upon, her Matrons became a prey and prize to every Ravisher, and her Priests and

Sacrificers were slaine before the gates of their Temples.

This City was the Mother and Well-spring of all Libe∣rall Arts and Sciences, and the great Cisterne of Europe, whence flowed so many Conduit pipes of learning all where, but now altogether decayed: The circuit of old Athens hath beene according to the fundimentall walls yet extant about sixe Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor many dwelling houses therein; being with∣in two hundred fire-houses, having a Castle, which for∣merly was the Temple of Minerva. They have abun∣dance of all things requisite for the sustenance of humane life, of which I had no small proofe: for these Atheni∣ans or Greeks, exceeding kindly banqueted mee foure dayes, and furnisht me with necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported mee by Sea in a Brigandino freely, and on their owne charges to Serigo, being 44. miles distant.

After my redounded thankes, they having returned, the contemplation of their courtesies brought me in re∣membrance how curious the old Athenians were to heare of forreigne newes, and with what great regard and esti∣mation they honoured travellers, of which as yet they are no wayes defective.

Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico: It was anciently called Cytherea, of Cythero the Sonne of Phaenise: And of A∣ristotle Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine Marble that is got there: It is of circuit threescore miles, having but one Castle called Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captaine: here it is said that Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple, on the side of a Mountaine yet extant.

A little more downward below this old adored Temple of Venus, are the Reliques of that Palace, where∣in

Menelaus did dwell, who was King of Sparta, & Lord of this Ile. The Greeks of the Ile told me there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which was a soveraigne remedy for the Falling sicknesse, and good to make a woman be quickly delivered of her birth. I made afterward deeper enquiry for it, to have either seene or bought it, but for my life I could never attaine to any perfect knowledge thereof.

In the time of my abode at the Village of Capsalo (be∣ing a haven for small Barks, and scituate below the Castle) the Captaine of that same Fortresse kild a Seminary Priest, whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothell-house: for the which sacrilegious murther, the Governour of the Isle deposed the Captaine, and bani∣shed him, causing a Boate to be prepared to send him to Creta. O! if all the Priests which doe commit Incest, A∣dultery, and Fornication (yea and worse, Il peccato ca••∣nale contra natura) were thus handled; and severely re∣warded, what a sea of Sodomiticall irreligious blood would overflow the halfe of Europe, to staine the spot∣ted colour of that Roman beast. Truely, and yet more, these lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scou∣rings of the earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre, allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beve, &c. That is, Be cheerefull, be cheerefull, deare brother, he that eateth well, drinketh well, hee that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth well, sinneth not, and he that sinneth not, goeth straight through Pur∣gatory to Paradise. This is all the care of their living, ma∣king their tongues to utter what their harts do prophane∣ly think, Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla volupt as, and as it is well observed of this Monachall and licentious life.

Non male sunt Monachis, grato indita nomina patrum, Cum numerent natos, hic & ubique suos. Injustly, no! Monkes be cal'd Fathers, Why? Their Bastards swarme, as thicke as starres in sky.

In the aforesaid Boat I also imbarked with the Captain, and sailed by the little Isoletta of Serigota: Leaving Capo di Spada on the left hand, wee arrived at Carabusa with extreame fortune, being fiercely pursued by three Tur∣kish Galleots. Betweene Serigo and Carabusa wee had sevenscore and twelve Miles of dangerous and cumbusti∣ous seas.

The Third Part.

Now Creta comes, the Mediterren Queen, To my sought view, where golden Ida's seen: Cut with the Labyrinth of th' old Minatoure, Thence trac'd I all the Syclads fifty foure: With Nigropont and Thessaly amaine, Macedon, Pernassus, the Achaian plaine; Tenedos and Troy, long Phrygia fixt, Sestos, Abidos, Adrianopole vext: Colchis, falne Thebes, Hellespont, and more, Constantinople, earths best soveraigne glore: The Euxine sea, and Pompeys Pillar prest, In Paru then, Ile take my winters rest.

THE Ile of Candy, formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Aegean sea, to the West the sea Io∣nian; to the South the Libique Sea, and to the East the Carpathian Sea: It lyeth mid-way twixt Achaia in

Greece, and Cyrene in Affrick, not being distant from the one, nor from the other, above two dayes sailing: It is a most famous and ancient Kingdome: By moderne writers, it is called Queene of the Iles Medeterrene: It had of old an hundred Cities, whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia, Canea, Rethimos, and Scithia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny, Frons arie∣tis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundred and forty Miles, large threescore, and of circuit sixe hundred and fif∣ty miles.

This is the chiefe Dominion belonging to the Venetian Reipublicke: In every one of these foure Cities there is a Governour, and two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two years. The Country is divided into foure parts, under the jurisdiction of the foure Cities, for the better admini∣stration of Justice: and they have a General who common∣ly remaineth in the City of Candi (like to a Vice-roy) who deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers, and others whatsoever, in the behalfe of St. Mark, or Duke of Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, divided in Companies, Squadrons, and Gar∣risons, in the Cities and Fortresses of the Iland: which doe extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers, kept not onely for the incursions of Turks, but also for feare of the Cretes or inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render to the Turke, than to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking thereby to have more liberty, and lesse taxed under the Infidell, than now they are under the Christian.

This Isle produceth the best Maluasie, Muskadine, and Leaticke wines, that are in the whole Universe. It yeel∣deth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons, Cytrons, Grenadi∣ers,

Adams Apples, Raisins, Oilves, Dates, Hony, Sugar, Vva tri de volte, and all other kinds of fruit in abun∣dance. But the most part of the Cornes are brought yeare∣ly from Archipelago and Greece. The chiefe Rivers are Ca∣taracho, Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow, and discommodious for shipping, in respect of their short courses and rocky passages: And the principall Cities of old, were Gnassus, where Minos kept his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Country was by Marcellus made subject to the Romans. It was afterward given by Baldwin Earle of Flanders, the first Latin Emperour of Constantinople to Boniface of Montferrat, who sold it, An. 1194. to the Venetians.

Thus much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my travailing two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome, which was never before attchieved by any Travailer in Christendome; I will as briefely as I can in particular, relate a few of those miseries endured by me in this land, with the nature and quality of the people.

This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River the ancient City of Lanarke is scituated: for this Fort is environed with a Rock higher than the walls, and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: ha∣ving learned of the theevish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my money in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very courteously performed; and would also have disswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswa∣sion of him would stay. From thence departing all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine, with three Greeke murthering Renegadoes, and an Italian Ban∣dido,

who laying hands on me, beat me most cruelly, robed me of all my cloaths, and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches.

At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speak the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more than hee saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarely amounted to two groats English: but hee not giving credit to these words, searched all my Cloathes and Budgeto, yet found nothing, except my linnen, and Letters of recommendati∣ons, I had from divers Princes of Christendome, especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had beene lawfull Subjects: which when hee saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my pilgrimes Cloathes, and Letters, but my blew Gowne and Bagantines they kept: such also was their theevish Courtesie towards me, that for my better safeguard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encoun∣tred with any of them; for they were about twenty Ras∣calls of a confederate band; that lay in this desart pas∣sage.

Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travai∣led that day seven and thirty Miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refresh∣ment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiors thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to ••ee me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruell lookes, they seemed to be a barbarous uncivill

people: For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyran∣nicall, blood-thirsty, and deceitfull. The consideration of which, and the appearance of my death, signed to mee secretly by a pittifull woman, made mee to shunne their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, & privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragi∣ous Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till Morning with a fearefull heart, a crased body, a thirsty stomacke, and a hungry belly.

Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin had put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being covered, and the earth discovered by the Sunne, I imbraced my unknowne way, and about mid-day came to Canea: Canea is the second City of Creete, called anci∣ently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well Walled, and fortified with Bulwarks: It hath a large Castle, con∣taining ninety seven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the Walls, guard the gates and Market places of the City: Neither in this Towne nor Candia, may any Countrey peasant enter with weapons (especially Har∣quebuses) for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmetia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana, or match∣lesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travaile I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with aboundance of Artillery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luk••, which continually reserves in store provision of victualls for twelve yeares siege.

In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies from Venice, upon one of which there was a

young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in com∣pany with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice, one of them killed a young noble Venetien, about the quarrell of a Curtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house, the rest escaped, and he one∣ly apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senators to the Gallyes induring life. Now the Gallyes lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an Irom bolt on his legge: In which time wee falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have mercy upon mee, and grant me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeeme mee: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull, the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the o••her, for his misfortunes, wor∣king a Christian condolement for intollerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare early the next morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for shee was my Landresse; and reciting to her the whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old Gowne, and a blacke vaile for his disguise∣ment. The time came, and we met, the matter was diffi∣cult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where after tractall dis••ourses,

and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe over-came his sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite, and sent him out before mee, conducted by the Greekish woman: and when se∣curely past both Guard and Gate, I followed, carrying with mee his cloathes, where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the Vale of Suda, and interchanging his appar∣rell, I directed him the way over the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, a place of safe-guard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where hee would kindly bee entertained, till either the Gallyes, or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going, or comming from the Levante to touch heere, to releeve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men-slayers, and rob∣bers repaire for reliefe.

And now many joyfull thankes from him redounded, I returned, keeping the high way, where incontinent I en∣countred two English Souldiers, Iohn Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an Imi∣nent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Gal∣lyes, with a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: after which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I say; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds) They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Easterne (the least fre∣quented) Gate of the City, where three other English men lay that day on Guard, for so there were five of them here in Garison: where when wee came, the other

English accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and neare my lodging, foure officers and sixe Gally souldiers runne to lay hold on mee: whereat the English and French unsheathing their swords, vali∣antly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane while fresh supply comming from the Gallyes, Iohn Smith runne along with me to the Mona∣stery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept their fol∣lowing: At the last the Captaines of the Garrison approa∣ching the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiars, and drove backe the other to the Gallyes. A little thereafter the Generall of the Gallyes came to the Monastary, and examined mee concerning the fugitive, but I clearing my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition hee might conceive (notwithstanding of my accusers) hee could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, hee seemed somewhat favourable; partly because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly because of my intended voyage to Ierusalem; partly because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because hee could not mend himselfe, in regard of my shelter, and the Governours fa∣vour: yet neverthelesse I detained my selfe under safeguard of the Cloyster untill the Gallyes were gone.

Being here disappoynted of transportation to Archipe∣lago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Towne or Vil∣lage, save onely a Castle, scituated on a Rock in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Ships and Gallyes, and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians, whereby his Nav••

which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have ac∣cesse and reliefe; but they would never grant him his re∣quest; which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome.

South-west from this famous harbour, lyeth a pleasant plaine, sirnamed the Vally of Suda: It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember as I de∣scended to crosse the Valley, and passe the Haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a green sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-top all other fructi∣ferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of ground are all built on the skirts of Rocks, upon the South-side of the Valley, yea and so difficult to climbe them, & so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill, as he who was adjoyned to sit under the point of a two-handed sword, and it hanging by the haire of a horse taile.

Trust me, I told along these Rocks at one time, and within my sight some 67. Villages; but when I entred the Valley, I could not finde a foote of ground unmanu∣red, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew Wheat, Maluasie, Musca∣dine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers, Mel∣lones, and all other sorts of ••ruits and Herbes the earth can yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily bee sirnamed the garden of the whole Vni∣verse: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond sparke, and the Honey spot of all Candi: There is no land more tem∣perate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tide; no soyle more fertile, and therefore it is called the Combate of

Bacus, and Ceres; nor Region or Valley more hospita∣ble, in regard of the Sea, having such a noble Haven cut through its bosome, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune.

Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; this City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. it was miserably sacked, and burned with Turkes. Continuing this voyage, I passed along the skirts of Mount Ida, accompanied with Greeks, who could speake the Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the Cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Iupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was said to bee the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who after their succession to the Kingdome, established such aequitable Lawes, that by Poets they are feigned with Aeacus to bee the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Iupi∣ter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets.

Thirdly, they shewed mee the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who (say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father to Iupiter. And neare to it, is the demolished Temple of Matelia, having this su∣perscription above the doore, yet to bee seene: Make cleane your feete, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the entry into the Laborinth of Dedalus, which I would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light, wee durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it; so that if a man stumble, or fall,

he can hardly be rescued: It is cut forth with many intri∣cating wayes, on the face of a little Hill, joyning with Mount Ida, having many doores and pillars. Here it was where Theseus by the helpe of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos, taking a bottome of threed, and tying the one end at the first doore, did enter and slay the Min••∣taurus, who was included there by Dedalus: This Min••∣taure is said to have bin begot by the lewd and luxurious Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull.

Mount Ida is the highest Mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of Shepheards feete, amounteth to sixe miles of hight: It is over-clad even to the toppe with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable hearbes: in∣somuch that the beasts which feede thereupon, have their teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is said by some Historians, that no vene∣mous animall can live in this Ile; but I saw the contrary: for I kild on a Sunday morning hard by the Sea side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a Viper: one of which Serpents was above a yard and halfe in length, for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry sands, my right legge was almost in their reverence before I remarked the danger: wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience teacheth men the truth.

Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, bite a man any thing hard, hee will never recover: and that there is an hearbe called Allimos in this Iland, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not feele hunger for foure and twenty houres: all which are meere fabulous, such is the darkenesse of cloudy inventions.

Descending from this Mountaine, I entred in a faire

plaine, beautified with many Villages; in one of which I found a Grecian Bishop, who kindly presented me with grapes of Maluasie, and other things, for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he had given me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a servant, who went with me to Candy, which was more than fifteene miles from his house. True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other, doe not use to come empty han∣ded, neither will they suffer a stranger to depart without both gifts and convoy.

I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three fountaines gushing forth of a Rock, each one within a yard of other, having three sundry tastes: the first water was exceeding light and sweet; the middle or second marvellous soure and heavy: the third was bitter and ex∣traordinary salt: so that inso short bounds so great diffe∣rence I never found before, nor afterward.

Candy is distant from Canea a hundred Miles, Rethimos being halfe way betwixt both: so is Candy halfe way in the same measure, twixt Rethimos and Scythia; and Ca∣nea the like twixt Rethimos and Carabusa being in all 200 Miles.

Candy is a large and famous City, formerly called Mati∣um, scituated on a plaine by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for ships, and a faire Arsenell wherein are 36. Gal∣lies: It is exceeding strong, and daily guarded with 2000. Souldiers, and the walles in compasse are about three Leagues.

In this time there was no Vice-Roy, the former being newly dead, and the place vacant, the Souldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves, or against any whom∣soever their malignity was intended, for in all the time I stayed there, being ten dayes, it was nothing to see every

day foure or five men killed in the streetes: neither could the Rector, nor the Captains helpe it, so tumultuous were the disordered Souldiers, and the occasions of re∣venge and quarrelling so influent. This commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise they durst never attempt without death, and severe punish∣ment; and truely me thought it was as barbarous a gover∣ned place for the time, as ever I saw in the world, for hardly could I save my owne life free from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved.

Candy is distant from Venice 1300 Miles, from Constan∣tinople 700, from Famagusta in Cyprus 600, from A∣lexandria in Aegypt 500, from Tripoli in Syria 700, from Naples 900, from Malta 500, from Smyrna in Car∣••••nia of Natolia 400, and from the City of Ierusalem 900 Miles. The Candeots through all the Island make muster every eight day, before the Seriant-Majors, or Officers of the Generall, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea, and the most valorous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was told mee by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men, all able for warres, with 54 Gallies, and 24 Galleots for the Sea.

In all my Travells through this Realm, I never could see a Greeke come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martiall manner, that on his head he weareth a bare steele Cap, a Bow in his hand, a long Sword by his side, a broad Ponyard overthwart his belly, and a round Target hanging at his Girdle. They are not costly in apar∣rell, for they weare but linnen Cloathes, and use no sho••es, but Botes of white leather, to keepe their legges in the fields from the pricks of a kinde of Thistle, wherewith

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the Countrey is over-charged like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvellous sharpe, and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great harme, I found their bloody smart: The Women gene∣rally weare linnen breaches as men doe, and bootes after the same manner, and their linnen coates no longer then the middle of their thighes; and are insatiable incli∣ned to Venery, such is the nature of the soyle and climate. The ancient Cretans were such notable lyers, that the Heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his Epistle to Titus, did tearme them to have beene ever lyers, evill beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbes, as Cretense mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.

The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Orientall people therein, couragious and valiant upon the Sea, as in former times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing, so that commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Childe of each family, will for the space of an houre, sing with such an harmony, as is won∣derfull melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgoe the custome of it.

Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and Aprill. Being frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old friends the English-men: Meane while there arrived from Tunnis in Barbary, an English Runagate named Wolson, bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his Natives, and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my elder brother, said hee, the Master (or Captaine) of a Ship slaine at

Burnt Iland in Scotland by one called Keere; and not∣withstanding he was beheaded, I have long since sworne, to be revenged of my brothers death, on the first Scots∣man I ever saw or met, and my designe is to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his lodg∣ing desiring their assistance: but Smith, Hargrave, and Horsf••ild refused, yet Cooke and Rollands yeelded. Mean∣while Smith knowing where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Suttlers, a souldiers house, where acquainting me with this plot, the Host, he, and three Ita∣lian souldiers conveighed me to my bed, passing by the arch-villaine, and his confederates, where he was prepa∣red for the mischiefe: which when hee saw his treachery was discovered, he fled away, and was seene no more here.

Remarking the fidelity and kindnesse that Smith had twice shewne me, first from freeing me from the danger of Galley-slavery, and now in saving my life, I advised to do him a good deed in some part of acquittance, and thus it was: At his first comming to Venice, he was taken up as a Souldier for Candy: where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captaines promise and perfor∣mance different, which inforced him at the beginning to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five yeares of their abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibite the charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over to the new Captaine for five yeares more, who paied the old Captaine his mo∣ny; and his time also worne out, the third Captaine came, where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five yeares longer.

Thus having served three Captains fifteene yeares, and never likely able (for a small trifle) to attaine his li∣berty, I went to the Captaine and payed his debt, obtai∣ning

also of the Rector his licence to depart; and the al∣lowance of the State for his passage, which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter I imbarked him for Venice in a Flemish ship, the Master being a Scotsman, Iohn Allen borne in Glasgow, and dwelt at Middleborough in Zeland, his debt was onely forty eight shillings sterling.

Here I stayed in Canea twenty five dayes before I could get passage for the Arch Ilands, being purposed for Con∣stantinople; but gladly would not have left the Monastary of these foure Friars, with whom I was lodged, if it had not beene for my designes; in regard of their great cheere and deepe draughts of Maluasey I received hourely, and oftentimes against my will: every night after supper, the Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagli∣ard or other: Their Musicke in the end was sound drun∣kennesse, and their Syncopa turnd to spew up all, and their bed converted to a board, or else the hard floore, for these beastly swine were nightly so full, that they had ne∣ver power to goe to their owne Chambers, but where they fell, there they lay till the morne: The Cloyster it selfe had two faire Courts, the least of which might have lodged any King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the foure Friars, there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greek borne, and turn'd to the Roman Faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter, or Father of free Will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow, for he was so free of his stomacke to receive in strong liquor, that for the space of twenty daies of my be∣ing there, I never saw him, nor any one of the other three truely sober. Many cdde merriments and jests have I ob∣served of these Friers of Candi, but time will not suffer me to relate them, onely remitting the rest to my private discourse, a Figge for their folly.

I travailed on foot in this Isle more than foure hundred Miles, and upon the fifty eight day after my first com∣ming to Carabusa, I imbarked in a Fisher-boat that be∣longed to Milo, being a hundred Miles distant, which had beene violently driven thither with stormy wea∣ther.

And in our passing thither, we were in danger to be over-runne two severall times, with two huge broken Seas, which twice covered the body of the close boat: yet with extream fortune wee arrived at Milo in a bay of the East corner of the Isle, being about St. Andrews day, where the poore Greeks tooke me up to their Village, two miles distant from this Creeke, and I abode with them foure dayes.

Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada, and by others, Mimalida, Melos: And lastly Milo, because of the fine Mill-stones that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece, and Natolia. This Isle is one of the Isles Cyclades, or Sporades, but more commonly Ar∣chipelago, or the Arch-Islands, and standeth in the begin∣ning of the Aegean Sea: The Inhabitants are Greekes, but slaves to the Turke, and so are all the fifty foure Isles of the Cyclades, save onely Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.

From Milo I came to Zephano, in a small boat, an Island of circuit about twenty Miles, and ten miles distant from Milo: The Inhabitants are poore, yet kind people: There are an infinite number of Partridges within this Isle, of a reddish colour, and bigger than ours in Brittaine: They are wild, and onely killed by small shot; but I have seene in other Isands flocks of them feeding in the fields, and usually kept by Children: some others I have seene in the streetes of Villages, without any keeper,

even as our Hennes doe with us. I saw Fountaines heere, that naturally yeeld fine Oyle, which is the greatest ad∣vantage the Ilanders have.

Zephano did once produce the Calamita, and was re∣nowned for the fine Mines of Gold and Silver, of which now it is altogether desolate: There is also fine Sulphur here, and exceeding good Marble: from whence Lucul∣lus was the first that transported it to Rome: There is a certaine ground in this Ile, where it is said, that if any take it away, or digge deepe holes, the earth of it selfe in a small time will surcease without any ayde of man. East from Milo and Zephano, lye the Iles Policandro, and Christiana, formerly Laguso, Sicandro; and Sasurnino, anciently Calistha, famous for the birth of the Poet Calimachus.

From thence I imbarked, and arrived at Angusa in Pa∣rir: This Ile is forty miles long, and sixe miles broad: being plentifull enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was anciently called Demetriado, whose length lyeth South-west, and North-east: and hard by the high Mountaine of Camphasia, neere to Angusa, on a faire Val∣ley standeth the ancient Temple of Venus, never a whit decayed to this day: This Ile was given to the Venetians by Henry the Constantinopolitan Emperour, and brother to Baldwin Earle of Flanders: and it was seazed upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and divers other Iles were surprised from the Venetians.

In Angusa I stayed sixteene dayes, storme-sted with Northernely winds; and in all that time I never came in bed: for my lodging was in a little Chappell a mile with∣out the Village, on hard stones; where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited mee often∣times, & intreated me above all things, I should not enter

within the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was inforced every night to creepe in the midst of the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme, which Sanctuary was nothing but an Altar hemb'd in with a partition wall about my height, dividing the little roome from the body of the Chappell.

These miserable Ilanders, are a kind of silly poore peo∣ple; which in their behaviour, shewed the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure in their living. From thence I imbarked on a small barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy, and loaden with Oyle, and about mid-day we arrived in the Ile of Mecano, where wee but only dined; and so set forward to Zea.

This Mecano was formerly called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo, being the chiefe Ile of the Cyclades, the rest of the 54. incircling it: Delos signifieth apparant, be∣cause at the request of Iuno, when all the earth had abjured the receipt of Latona: This Iland then under the water, was by Iupiter erected aloft, and fixt to receive her, where∣in she was delivered of Apollo, and Diana:

—erratica Delos, &c. Ovid. Vnsetled Delos, floating on the maine, Did wandring Laton kindly entertaine; In spight of Juno, fatned with loves balme, Was brought to bed, under Minerva's palme.

In this Ile they retaine a Custome, neither permitting men to dye, or children to be borne in it: but alwayes when men fall sicke, and women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta, and two miles distant.

Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the sonne of Phebo; and of some Tetrapoli; be∣cause of the foure Cityes that were there of old. Symo∣nides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent Physitian, were borne in it. The next Isle of any note we touched at, was Tino: This Island is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometimes beautified with the Temple of Nep∣tune. By Aristotle it was called Idrusa; of Demosthenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke, towards the East, end or Promontore of the Isle, and ever provided with three yeares provision, and a Garrison of two hundred Souldiers: So that the Turkes by no means can conquer it. The Isle it selfe is twenty Miles in length, and a great refuge for all Christian ships and Gallyes that haunt in the Levante.

From this Isle I came to Palmosa, sometimes Pathmos, which is a Mountainous and barren Iland: It was here that Saint Iohn wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus the Emperour. Thence I imbarked to Nicaria, and sailed by the Isle Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit of a woman was Achilles brought up here, because his Mother being by an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre, sent him to this Island; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst the Kings Daughters: who in that time begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia, the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Vlysses af∣terward did discover this fatall Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight of Nicaria, wee espyed two Turkish Galleots, who gave us the Chase, and pursued us straight to a Bay betwixt two Mountaines where wee left the loaden Boat, and fled to the Rocks, from whence wee

mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the pursu∣ing Turks: But in our flying, the Master was taken, and other two old men; whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boat, and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.

This Isle Nicaria, was anciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa, and is somwhat barren: having no Sea-port at all: It was here, the Poets feigned, that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell, when as hee tooke flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the name; and not following directly his father Dedalus, was here drowned.

Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiae pennis Icarus, Icariis, nomina fecit aquis. Whiles Icarus weak wings, too high did flye, He fell, and baptiz'd the Icarian Sea. So many moe experience may account, That both above their minds, and means would mount.

Expecting certaine dayes here, in a Village called La∣phantos, for passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was come from the fruitfull Isle of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Isle of Stalimene is in cir∣cuit 90 miles, where in Hephestia it's Metropolis, Vulcan was mightily adored, who being but a homely brat, was cast down hither by Iuno, whereby it was no marvaile if he became crooked, and went a halting: The sovereigne minerall against infections, called Teera Lamnia, or Sigil∣lata, is digged here: The former name proceedeth from the Island: The latter is in force, because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a Turkish Signe••; and so sold, and dispersed over Christendome. Having embarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, wee sayled by the Isle Samos, which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Policrates lived so fortunate, as hee

had never any mischance all this time, till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death: Leaving us an example, that fortune is certaine in nothing but in in∣certainties, who like a Bee with a sharp sting, hath al∣wayes some miserie following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of circuit 160, and of length 40 miles: it was of old named Driusa and Melanphilo, in which Pytha∣gor as the Phylosopher and Lycaon the excellent Musicio∣ner were born.

Upon our left hand, and opposite to Samos lyeth the Isle of Nixia, formerly Maxos; in circuit 68 miles: It was also called the Isle of Venus, and Dionisia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim the father of Solyman: East from Nixia, lieth the Isle Amurgospolo, in circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious Ports named St. An∣na, Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Natolia, lyeth the Isle Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and Eastward thence the little Isle of Lerno, five leagues in circuit, all inhabited with Greeks and they, the silly ignorants of Nature: South-east from this lyeth the Isle of Coos, now Lango: by the Turks called Stanccow, the Capitall Towne is Arango, where Hy∣pocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Isle, there is a Wine named by the Greeks Hyppocon, that ex∣celleth in sweetnesse all other Wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Isle disinhabited, in regard of a conta∣gious Lake, that infecteth the ayre both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Alloes found here, so much esteemed by our Apothecaries; the rest of this Isle shall be touched in the owne place. And neere to Lango, lyeth the Isle Giara, now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desertuous, unto which the Romans were wont

to send in banishment such as deserved death: In gene∣rall of these Isles Cyclades, because they are so neere one to another, and each one in sight of another there are ma∣ny Cursares and Turkish Galleots, that still afflict these I∣landers; Insomuch that the Inhabitants are constrained to keepe watch day and night, upon the tops of the most commodious Mountaines, to discover these Pirats; which they easily discerne from other vessels, both because of their Sayles and Oares: And whensoever discovered ac∣cording to the number of cursary Boates, they make as many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard: And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no signe on these Isles, of fire or smoake, then they perfectly know these Laborinthing Seas, are free from pestilent Raveners.

As we left the Isle Venico on our left hand, and entred in the gulfe betwene Sio, and Eolida, the firme land is called Aeolida, there fell downe a deadly storme at the Grecoe Levante, or at the North-east, which split our Mast, carrying sayles and all over-boord: whereupon every man looked (as it were) with the stamp of death in his pale visage. The tempest continuing (our Boate not being able to keep the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entred, there was no likely-hood of reliefe: for we had shelfie shore, and giving ground to the Anchors, they came both home.

The sorrowfull Master seeing nothing but shipwrack, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush up∣on the face of a low Rock, whereupon the sea most feare∣fully broke it. As we touched the Mariners contending who should first leape out, some fell over-board, and those that got land, were pulled backe by the reciproca∣ting waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move▪

for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, be∣fore the rest were first forth, they would throw me head∣long into the sea: So being two wayes in danger of death I patiently offered up my prayers to God.

At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our fore-decks, and Boates gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the reco••••ing waves brought us back from the Shelves a great way; which the poore Master perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons alive, cryed with a loud voyce: Be of good courage, take up oares, and row hastily; it may be, before the Barke sinke, we shall 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working for his owne deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man, but the Boat immediatly sunke. There was nothing saved but my Coffino, which I kept alwayes in my armes: partly, that it might have brought my dead body to some creeke, where being found, might have beene by the Greekes buryed; and partly I held it fast also, that saying my life, I might save it too; it was made of Reeds and would not easily sink, notwithstanding of my papers and linnen I carried into it for the which safetie of my things the Greekes were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30 paces long, within the mountaine, wee abode three dayes without either meat or drink, upon the fourth day at morne, the tempest ceasing, there came Fisher-boates to re••••eve us, who found the ten Greekes almost famished for lacke of food; but I in that hunger-starving feare, fed upon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe.

True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an ex∣ample to others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessa∣ry that some men should be so: For it pleased God, ha∣ving

shewn a sensible disposition of favour upon mee, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities, taught me al∣so by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my con∣fidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my own selfe, and my ambition, which drave mee often to such disasters.

The dead men being found on shoare, we buried them; and I learned at that instant time, there were seventeene boats cast away on the Coast of this Island, and never a man saved: in this place the Greeks set up a stone Crosse in the memoriall of such a wofull mischance, and mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoycing and thanking God for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods) tooke journey through the Iland to Sio, for so is the City called, being thirty miles distant: in my way I past by an old Castle standing on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed by two Greeks in my company) the Sepulcher of Homer was yet extant: for this Sio is one of the seven Iles and Towns, that contended for his birth:

Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri. These Cities seven (I undername) did strive, Who first brought Homer to the world alive. Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenae:

The which I willing to see, I entreated my associats to accompany me thither; where, when we came, we de∣scended by 16 degrees into a darke Cell; and passing that, we entred in another foure squared room, in which I saw an ancient Tombe, whereon were ingraven Greek letters, which we could not understand for their antiquity; but whether it was his Tombe or not, I doe not know, but this they related, and yet very likely to have been his Se∣pulcher.

This Isle of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Ap∣panomera, signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea, that is, the levell, or lower parts of the Isle: it was first called Ethalia: it aboundeth so in O∣ranges and Lemmons, that they fill Barrels and Pipes with the juice thereof, and carry them to Constantinople, which the Turkes use at their meate, as wee doe the Verges. And also called Pythiosa: next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, of Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long ago it was under the Genoveses, but now governed by the Turkes: it is of circuite an hundred miles, and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trees: I saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yield in great plenty, Oranges, Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Olives, Apricocks, Dates, Adams Apples, excellent Herbs, faire Flowres, sweet Honey, with store of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good Silk is made here.

At last I arrived at the Citie of Sio, where I was lod∣ged, and kindly used with an old man, of the Genovesen race, for the space of eight dayes: I found here three Mo∣nasteries of the order of Rome, one of the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican Friers, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of the Citie is of that stock, and of the Papall See, these Cloysters have a braver life for good cheere, fat Wines, and delicate Leachery, than any sort of Friers can else∣where finde in the World.

The women of the Citie Sio, are the most beautifull Dames, (or rather Angelicall creatures) of all the Greeks, upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.

If Venus foe saw Sio's fair-fac'd Dames, His stomack cold, would burn, in lust-spread flames.

They are for the most part exceeding proud, and sumptuous in apparell, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gownes of Sattin and Taffety; yea in Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with precious Stones, and Jemms, and Jewels about their neckes, and hands, with Rings, Chains & Bracelets. Their Husbands are their Pandors, and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demand of him; if hee would have a Mistris: and so they make whoores of their owne wives, and are contented for a little gaine, to weare hornes: such are the base mindes of ignominious Cuckolds. If a stranger be desirous to stay all night with any of them, their price is a Chicken of Gold, nine Shillings English, ou•• of which this companion receiveth his supper and for his paines, a belly full of sinfull content. This City of Sio hath a large and strong Fortresse, which was built by the Genove∣ses, and now detained by a Garison of Turkes, contai∣ning a thousand fire-houses within it, some whereof are Greeks, some Genoveses, some Turks, and Moores: The Citie it selfe is unwalled, yet a populous and spaci∣ous place, spred along by the Sea-side, having a goodly harbour for Galleys and Ships. The chiefe inhabitants there, are descended of the Genoveses, and professe the su∣perstition of Rome: The people where of were once Lords of the Aegean Sea, maintaining a Navy of eighty Ships: In the end they became successively subiect to the Ro∣mane and Greek Princes; till Andronico Paleologus, gave them and their Ile to the Iustinianes, a Noble Family of the Genoveses: from whom it was taken by Solyman the Magnificent on Easter day 1566, being the same yeare that our late gracious, and once Soveraigne Lord, King Iames of blessed memory was borne. This Citadal or Fortresse of Sio, standeth full between the Sea, and the

Harbour, was invaded be 800 Florentines, sent hither by the great Duke Ferdinando, brother to Queene Mother of France, and our owne Queene Maries Uncle, Anno 1600 August 7. The manner was thus, The Genovesen seed had sold the Fort unto the Duke of Florence, where∣upon hee sent his Galleyes and these Gallants thither: Where, when arrived in the night scaled the wals, slue the watches, and unhappily ramforced all the Cannon; and then entring the Fort put all the Turkes to the sword, and among them, too many Christians: The Galleyes all this time, being doubtfull how it went, durst not en∣ter the harbour, but a storme falling downe, they bore up to an Isolet for ancorage in the Aeolid gulfe, and three miles distant: The next morning, the Turkish Bashaw, the City, and all the Islanders were in armes: The Flo∣rentines being dismissed of their ••alleys, grew discoura∣ged, and trying the Canon, which they had spoyled at their first scallet, it would not be: Meane while, the Ba∣shaw entred in parley with them, and promised faithfully, to send them safe to the Galleys if they would render. Upon the third day they yeelded, and as they issued forth along the draw-bridge, and the Bashaw set in a Tent to re∣ceive them as they came in, one by one, he caused strike off all their heads: And done, there was a Pinacle reared upon the walles of the Fort with their bare sculs which stand to this day.

But by your leave, Ferdinando in person, the yeare following, was more than revenged of such a cruell and faithlesse proceeding: He over mastered a Turkis•• town and castle, put two thousand Turks to the sword, sparing neither old nor yong, and recoyling infinite richesse and spoyles of the towne, he brought home their heads with him to Ligorne, and set them up there for a mercilesse mo∣nument.

After some certain dayes attendance, ••embarked in a Carmoesal, bound for Nigropont, which was forth of my way to Constantinople; but because I would gladly have seen Macedonia, and Thessaly, I followed that determina∣tion: In our way we touched at Mytelene, an Island of old called Isa: next Lesbos: And lastly, Mytelene, of Milet the sonne of Phoebus. Pythacus, one of the seven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother Al∣ceus the Lyricall Poet, Theophrastus the Peripatetick Phi∣losopher, Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sa∣pho, were born in it.

This Isle of Lesbos or Mytelene, containeth in compasse, one hundred forty six miles: the East parts are levell and fruitfull, the West and South parts mountainous and bar∣ren: The chief Cities are Mytelene and Methimnos: it was long under subjection of the Roman and Greeke Empe∣rours, till Calo Ioannes, Anno 1355, gave it in dowry with his sister to Catalusio a Nobleman of Genova, whose pos••erity enjoyed it till Mahomet (surnamed the Greeke) did seize on it, 1462.

These Isles Sporades, are scattered in the Aegean Sea, like as the Isles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland; but different in climate and fertilitie: for these South Ea∣sterne Isles in Summer are extream hot, producing gene∣rally (Nigroponti excepted) but a few Wines, Fruits, and Cornes, scarce sufficient to sustain the Islanders. But ••hese North Westerne Islands in Sommer, are neither hot nor cold; having a most wholsome and temperate ayre: and do yield abundance of Corne, even more then to suffice the inhabitants; which is yeerly transported to the firme land, and sold: They have also good store of Cattell, and good cheape, and the best fishing that the whole Ocean

yieldeth, is upon the Coasts of Orknay and Zetland.

In all these separated parts of the Earth, which of them∣selves of old, made up a little Kingdome, you shall al∣wayes finde strong March-Ale, surpassing fine Aqua-vitae, abundance of Geese, Hennes, Pigeons, Partridges, Moore-fowle, Mutton, Beefe and Termigants, with an infinite number of Conies, which you may kill with a Crosse-bow or Harquebuse, every morning forth of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime, which I have both practised my selfe, and seen practised by others; for they multiply so exceeding∣ly, that they dig even under the foundations of dwelling houses. Such is the will of God to bestow upon severall places, particular blessings; whereby he demonstrateth to man the plentiful store-house of his gracious providence, so many manner of wayes upon earth distributed; all glo∣ry be to his incomprehensible goodnesse therefore. I have seldome seene in all my travels, more toward, and tracta∣ble people (I mean their Gentlemen) and better house∣keepers, then be these Orcadians, and Zetlanders: where∣of in the prime of my adolescencie (by two Voyages a∣mongst these Northern Isles) I had the full proofe and experience.

And now certainly, it is a signe of little wisedome, and greater folly, for a man to answer suddenly to every light question; so it is as great a shame and stupiditie in man to keep silence, when he should, and may deserving∣ly speake; Wherefore damnifying the one, and vilifying the other, I come forth between both (Pugno pro Patria) to have a single bout with the ignorant malice of an im∣perious and abortive Geographer, brought up in the Schools neer T••ames, and Westward Ho at Oxford; who

blindlings in an absurd description of the World, hath produced many errors, & manifest untruths to the world.

And these amongst thousands moe, which I justly can censure to be false; namely, he reporteth the Orcadians to be a cruell and barbarous people, and that the most part of Scotland regarded neither King nor Law: tearming us also to have monstrous backs, against the execution of ••ustice: and because (saith he) they resemble us somewhat in visage and speech, the Scots are descended of the Sax∣ons; where when the blacke wings of the Eagle spread in the South, they fled thither, thinking rather to enjoy penurious liberty, then rich fetters of gold: Moreover, that the scurvy Isle of Manne, is so abundant in Oats, Bar∣ley, and Wheate, that it supplyeth the defects of Scot∣land; so venemous also is the Wormwood of his braine, that hee impugneth Hector Boetius, to have mentioned a rabble of Scottish Kings before Kenneth, the first Mo∣narch of all Scotland; but were he fast rabled in a rope, I think his presumptuous and impertinent phrase were wel recompensed: Yea, further hee dare to write, that if the Mountains, and unaccessable Woods, had not been more true to the Scots, then their own valour, that Kingdome had long since been subdued.

Many other introductions flow from his shallow base∣branded apprehension which I purposely omit: To this his perverse malignity (without partiall or particular con∣struction) I generally answere; that for courteous pene∣trating lenity; industrious tractability; prompt and exqui∣site ingeniosity; nobly taught, vivacious, & vertuous Gen∣tilitie; humane, and illustrious generosity; inviolate, and uncommixed nationall pedigree; Learned, Academicall, and Ecclesiastick Clergy; for sincere Religion, and devout Pietie; affable and benevolent Hospitalitie; civill and

zealous orders in spirituality; so docible a people to Su∣pream Regality; and for true valour, courage, and magna∣nimity; there is no Kingdome or Nation within the com∣passe of the whole universe, can excell, or compare with it.

Now what a selfe Losungeous fellow hath this fustian companion proved, when the flat contrary of his abju∣red impositions, is infallibly knowne to be of undoubted truth? And how often hath Europe, the seate of Chri∣stendome, and Mistris of the World, had the full experi∣ence in all her distressed corners, of the valiant, faithfull service, and unresistable valour of the people, of that never conquered Nation? the testimonies are evident, for my part I desist, and wil not meddle to preamble through per∣emptory inferences, on particular Kingdoms, although I acquittingly can; Howsoever a pertinacious Buffon dare, and falsly will do it:

Each base fantastick brain, dare forge new stiles, And alter Regions, Customes, Towns, and Isles: Strip'd in a bravad, he can joyn (disioyn Contig••at Kingdomes) distant lands in one; First Broker-like, he scrap's rags, snips and bits, Then plays the Ruffian shifting with his wits: Last Serpent-like, he casts a Winter skin, And like a Strumpet boldly enters in; This charling Ape, with counterfeits and lies, And blandements, would feed the worlds wide eyes: Thus like a stupid Asse, this block-head Fool, Must turn a Coxcombe, studying in the School: Would he be wise and exercise his brains Go travell first, experience knowledge gains: Dare he to write of Kingdoms, that ne'r saw His fathers Oxe, perhaps the plough to draw;

And scarce can tell even of the bread he eats How many frames it suffers, toyle, and sweats; Nor ne're ten miles, was travell'd from his cradle Yet fain would sit, the fleer'd Pegasian saddle: Whiles loytring in a Colledge, thus he dare Sow lyes, reap shame, build Lottries in the aire; Go doting Gull; Go, blot away thy name; And let thy labours perish with thy fame.

This Isle of Mytelena, is by the Turks called Sarcum, ly∣ing without the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna, and oppo∣site to the Western coast of Phrygia minor; where besides excellent Wine and Cornes, there are two sorts of dregs made there, which the Turks use to put in their pottage: In Turkish the one is called Trachana, the other Bouhort, which the Romans anciently named Crimnon and Mazza. Whence Loosing from Mytelene in the aforesaid Carmo∣sal, wee touched at Dalamede, in the Isle Androsia, the Northmost Isle of the Syclades toward Thessalia: It is in∣different copious of all things necessary for humane life, and round sixty miles: The Athenians of old (as Plutarch mentioneth) sent hither Themistocles to demand tribute; Themistocles told them, he came to inflict some great im∣position upon them, being accompanied with two God∣desses; the one was (Eloquence) to perswade them, and the other (Violence) to enforce them. Whereunto the Andro∣sians replyed, that on their side, they had two Goddesses as strong; the one whereof was (Necessitie) whereby they had it not; and the other (Impossibilitie) whereby they could not part with that they never enjoyed.

This Aegean Sea, or Mare Aegeum, had its denomina∣tion from Aegeus the father of Theseus, who misdoubting his sonnes returne from the Minotaure of Creet, here leaped in, and drowned himselfe: The greatest part of

these sixty nine Kings, that Agamemnon tooke with him to the siege of Troy, were onely Kings of these little I∣lands: By some they are divided into two parts, Cyclades, and Sporades; the former containing fifty foure, and the latter twelve Iles; modernly they are all cognominate Ar∣chipylago, or the Arch Ilands.

Hoysing sail from Dalamede, we set over to Nigroponti, being sixty miles distant, and bearing up Eastward to dou∣ble the South Cape, wee straight discovered two Turkish Galleots pursuing us: Whereupon with both sails and oars, we sought into the bottom of a long creek, on the West side of the Cape, called Baio di piscatori; whither al∣so fled nine Fisher-boats for refuge: The Galleots fearing to follow us in, went to anchor, at a rocky Isolet in the mouth of the Bay, and then within night were resolved to assail us. But night come, and every night of six (for there six days they expected us) we made such Bonfires, that so affrighted them (being two miles from any Village) they durst never adventure it: Yet I being a stranger was expo∣sed by the untoward Greeks to stand Centinell every night, on the top of a high Promontory, it being the dead time of a snowy and frosty Winter; which did invite my Muse to bewail the tossing of my toilsome life, my solitary wandring, and the long distance of my native soil:

Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quaerunt Me Mare, me venti, me fera jact at Hyems.

I Wander inexile, As though my Pilgrimage: Were sweet Comedian Scenes of love Vpon a golden Stage. Ah I, poor I, distress'd,

Oft changing to and fro. Am forc'd to sing sad Obsequies Of this my Swan-like wo. A vagabonding Guest, Transported here and there, Led with the mercy-wanting windes Of fear, grief, and despair. Thus ever-moving I, Yo restlesse journeys thrald, Obtains by Times triumphing frowns A calling, unrecall'd: Was I preordain'd so Like Tholos Ghost to stand, Three times four houres, in twenty four With Musket in my hand. Ore-blasted with the storms Of Winter-beating Snow, And frosty pointed hail-stones hard On me poor wretch to blow, No Architecture Lo But whirling-windy Skies. Or'e-syld with thundring claps of Clouds, Earths center to surprise. I, I, it is my fate, Allots this fatall crosse, And reckons up in Characters, The time of my Times loss My destinie is such, Which doth predestine me, To be a mirrour of mishaps, A map of misery. Extreamly do I live, Extream•• are all my joy,

I finde in deep extremities, Extreams, extream annoy. Now all alone I watch, With Argoes eyes and wit. A Cypher 'twixt the Greeks and Turks Vpon this Rock I sit. A constrain'd Captive I, 'Mongst incompassionate Greeks, Bare-headed, downward bows my head, And liberty still seeks. But all my sutes are vain, Heaven sees my wofull state: Which makes me say, my worlds eye-sight Is bought at too high rate. Would God I might but live, To see my native Soyle: Thrice happy in my happy wish, To end this endlesse toyle: Yet still when I record, The pleasant banks of Clide: Where Orchards, Castles, Towns, and Woods, Are planted by his side: And chiefly Lanarke thou, Thy Countries Laureat Lampe: In which this bruised body now Did first receive the stampe. Then do I sigh and sweare, Till death or my return, Still for to wear the Willow wreath, In sable weed to mourn. Since in this dying life, A life in death I take, Ile sacrifice in spight of 〈◊〉〈◊〉,

These solemne vows I make, To thee sweet Scotland first, My birth and breath I leave: To Heaven my soul, my heart King James, My Corps to lie in grave. My staffe to Pilgrimes I, And Pen to Poets send; My hair-cloth robe, and half spent goods, To wandring wights Ilend. Let them dispose as though My treasure were of gold, Which values more in purest prise, Then drosse ten thousand fold. These Trophees I erect, Whiles memory remains: An epitomiz'd Epitaph, On Lithgow's restlesse pains: My will's inclos'd with love, My love with earthly blis: My blisse in substance doth consist, To crave no more but this. Thou first, is, was, and last, Eternall, of thy grace, Protect, prolong, great Britains King, His son, and Royall Race.

AMEN.

Upon the seventh day, there came downe to visit us, two Gentlemen of Venice, clothed after the Turkish man∣ner; who under exile, were banished their Native Ter∣ritories ten yeeres for slaughter; each of them having two servants, and all of them carrying Shables, and two

Guns a piece: which when I understood, they were Italians, I addressed my selfe to them, with a heavy com∣plaint against the Greeks in detaining my Budgeto, and compelling mee to endanger my life for their goods: whereupon they accusing the Patron, and finding him guiltie of this oppression, belaboured him sound∣ly with handy-blowes, and caused him to deliver my things, carrying mee with them five miles to a Towne where they remained, called Rhethenos, formerly Cara∣stia, where I was exceeding kindly entertained ten days: And most nobly (as indeed they were noble) they bestow∣ed on mee forty Chickens of Gold at my departure, for the better advancement of my Voyage, which was the first gift that ever I received in all my travels. For if the darts of death had not been more advantagious to mee, then Asiaticke gifts, I had never been able to have un∣dergone this tributary, tedious, and sumptuous peregri∣nation: The confluence of the Divine Providence al∣lotting mee means, from the losse of my dearest consorts gave mee in the deepnesse of sorrow, a thankfull rejoy∣cing.

Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea, next Alban∣tes: and is now surnamed the Queene of Archipelago: The Turks cognominate this Isle Egribos: The Town of Nigropont, from which the Isle taketh the name, was ta∣ken in by Mahomet the second; Anno 1451, and in this Isle is found the Amianten stone, which is said to be drawne in threeds, as out of Flax, whereof they make Napkins, and other like Stuffs; and to make it white, they use to throw it in the fire, being salted: The stone also is found here, called by the Greeks Ophites, and by us Serpentine. The circuit of this Isle is three hundred forty sixe miles. It is seperated from the firme land of Thessalia, from the

which it was once rent by an Earth-quake, with a narrow channel, over the which in one place there is a bridge that passeth betwene the Isle, and the main continent and under it runneth a marvellous swift current, or E••ri∣pus, which ebbeth and floweth six times night and day. Within halfe a mile of the bridge, I saw a Marble co∣lumne, standing on the top of a little Rocke, whence (as the Islanders told me) Aristotle leaped in, and drow∣ned himselfe, after that he could not conceive the reason, why this Channell so ebbed & flowed: using these words, Quiaego non capeo te, tu capias me. This Isle bringeth forth in abundance all things requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Villages.

The chief Cities are Nigropont, and Calchos: The principall rivers Cyro, and Nelos, of whom it is said, if •• sheep drinke of the former, his wooll becommeth white, if of the latter coale blacke. From thence and after 2••. dayes abode in this Isle, I arrived to Town in Masido∣nia, called Salonica, but of old Thessalonica, where I stai∣ed five dayes, and was much made of by the inhabitants, being Iewes.

Salonica situate by the seaside, betweene the two Ri∣vers Chabris and Ehedora: It is a pleasant, large and mag∣nificke City, full of al sorts of merchandize; and it is na∣thing inferiour in all things (except nobility) unto Naples in Italy: It was sometimes for a while under the Signory of Venice, til Amurath the sonne of Mahomet, tooke it from this Republicke. And is the principall place of Thes∣saly which is a Province of Macedon, together with A∣chaia, and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same.

This City of Salonica is now converted in an Universi∣ty for the Iewes; and they are absolute Signiors thereof,

under the great Turke, with a large Territory of land, be∣ing without and about them: It hath bin ever in their hands since Soliman tooke in Buda in Hungary, Anno 1516, August. 20. to whom they lent two millions of money, and for warrandice whereof, they have this Towne and Province made fast to them: They speake vulgarly and Maternally here the Hebrew tongue, man, woman and child, and not else where in all the world. All their Synagogian or Leviticall Priests are bred here, and from hence dispersed to their severall stations.

Thessaly a long the sea side, lieth betweene Peloponne∣sus, and Achaia: Wherein standeth the hill Olympus, on which Hercules did institute the Olympian games, which institution was of long time the Grecian Epoche, from whence they reckoned their time.

Macedon is now called by the Turkes, Calethiros, signi∣fying a mighty & warlike Nation: Macedonia, containing Thessaly, Achaia, and Myrmidon, lieth as a center to them; having Achaia to the East: Thessalia to the South: Mir∣midonia, bordering with Aetolia to the West: And a part of Hoemus, whence it was called Haemonia, and some of ••isia superior to the North: it was also called Ama∣thia, from Amathus once King thereof, and then Macedo∣nia from the King Macedo: The chiefe Cities are Andori∣sta, Andesso, Sydra, Sederaspen, where the mines of gold and silver be, which enrich the Turk so monthly, receiving thence sometimes 18000, 24000 & 30000 Ducats. And Pellia, where Alexander the Great was born, Bajazet the first, wonne this Country, from the Constantinopolitans. About this City of Salonica is the most fertile and popu∣lous Country in all Greece.

Greece of all Kingdomes in Europe, hath been most fa∣mous, and highly renowned for many noble respects: yet

most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other: who changing Gold for Brasse, and loathing their owne Princes, suffered many Tyrants to rule over them, scourging their folly with their fall, and curing a festered soare with a poysoned playster: whence succeeded a dis∣mall discord, which beginning when the State of Greece was at the highest, did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebbe; sticking fast in the hands of a grievous desolation: which former times, if a man would retrospectively mea∣sure, he might easily finde, and not without admiration, how the mighty power of the divine Majesty doth sway the moments of things, and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange and unlooked for effects: making rea∣son blinde, policie astonished, strength feeble, valour da∣stardly, turning love into hatred, fear into fury, boldnesse into trembling, and in the circuit of one minute, making the Conquerour a conquered person.

Greece, now tearmed by the Turks Rum Ili, the Roman Country, was first called Helles, next Grecia of Grecus, who was once King thereof: The Greekes, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted Christians, and are won∣derfull devout in their professed Religion: The Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging over their shoul∣ders: These that be the most sincere religious men; abstain always from eating of flesh or fish, contenting themselves with water, herbs, and bread: They differ much in Cere∣monies, and principles of Religion from the Papists, and the computation of their Kalender is as ours.

They have foure Patriarks, who governe the affaires of their Church, and also any civill dissentions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople, another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, and the fourth in Ierusalem. It is not needfull for me to penetrate further in

the condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this Treatise. In a word, they are wholy dege∣nerate from their Ancestors in valour, vertue, and lear∣ning: Universities they have none, and civill behaviour is quite lost: formerly in derision they tearmed all other Nations Barbarians: A name now most fit for them∣selves, being the greatest dissembling lyers, inconstant, and uncivill people of all other Christians in the world.

By the way, I must give the Kings Kingdomes a caveat here, concerning vagabonding Greeks, and their coun∣terfeit Testimonials: True it is, there is no such matter, as these lying Rascals report unto you, concerning their Fathers, their Wives, and Children taken Captives by the Turke: O damnable invention! How can the Turke prey upon his owne Subjects, under whom, they have as great Liberiy, save only the use of Bels, as we have un∣der our Princes? the tithe of their Male children, being absolutely abrogated by Achmet, this Amuraths Father, and the halfe also of their Female Dowry at Marriges: And farre lesse for Religion, can they be banished, or de∣prived of their Benefices, as some false and dissembling fellowes, under the Title of Bishops make you beleeve; There being a free Liberty of Conscience, for all kinds of Religion, through all his Dominions, as well for us free borne Frankes as for them, and much more them, the Greeks, Armenians, Syriacks, Amoronits, Copties, Georgi∣ans, or any other Orientall sort of Christians: And there∣fore look to it, that you be no more gulled, golding them so fast as you have done, lest for your paines, you prove greater Asses, than they do Knaves.

In Salonica I found a Germo, bound for Tenedos, in which I imbarked: As we sayled along the Thessalonian 〈◊〉〈◊〉, I saw the two topped hill Pernassus, which is of a

wondrous height, whose tops even kisse the Cl••uds.

Mons hic cervicibus petit arduus astraduobus, Nomine Pernassus, super at que cacumine montes. Through thickest clouds, Pernassus bends his hight, Whose double tops, do kisse the Stars so bright.

Here it was said the nine Muses haunted: but as for the Fountain Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seen by the imagination of Poets; for if it had beene objected to my sight, like an insatiable Drunkard, I should have drunk up the streams of Poësie, to have enlarged my dry poeti∣call Sun scorch'd vein.

The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe and sterile, especially the two tops, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that Poets are alwayes poore, and nee∣die: The other top is barren, and rockie, resembling the ingratitude of wretched, and niggardly Patrons: the vale between the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitfull, and delightfull soile, which painfull Poets, the Muses, Plow-men, so industriously manure. A little more Eastward, as we fetcht up the coast of Achaia, the Master of the Vessell shewed mee a ruinous Village, and Castle; where hee said the admired Citie of Thebes had been. Whose former glory, who can truly write of! for as the earth, when shee is disrobed of her budding and fructifying trees, and of her amiable verdure, which is her onely grace and garment royall, is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted: even so is Thebes and her past Triumph defac'd, and bereft of her lusty and young Gentlemen, as if the spring-tide had been taken from the yeare: But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things, they are so secret and mysticall; being the most remote objects, to which our understanding may aspire, that wee may easily be deceived, by disguised and

pretended reasons; whilst we seek for the true and essenti∣all causes: for to report things that are done is easie, be∣cause the eie and the tongue may dispatch it, but to dis∣cover and unfold the causes of things, requireth braine, soul, and the best progresse of Nature. And as there is no evill without excuse, nor no pretence without some co∣lour of reason, nor wiles wanting to malicious and wrang∣ling wits; Even so, was there occasion sought for, what from Athens, and what from Greece, whereby the peace and happinesse of Thebes might be dissolved, and discord raised to the last ruines of her desolation.

This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers placed in the middle between Epire, Thessaly, and Peloponesus: where contrariwise it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace, lying along twixt it and Thessaly by the Sea side, which part of the Country, some late Authors have falsly named Migdonia, which is a Province, that lyeth North from Thracia, East from Macedon, and South from Misia, having no affinitie with the Sea: The chiefe Cities in Achaia, are Neapolis, Appollonia, and Nicalidi, where the famous Philosopher Aristotle was born. Here is a huge and high Hill Athos, containing in circuit 70 miles, and as some affirme three days jonrney long, whose sha∣dow was absurdly said to have extended to Lemnos, an Island lying neer the Carpathian Sea.

Achaia was formerly called Aylaida, but now by the Turks Levienda: Athos in Greeke is called Agros aeros, to wit, a holy Mountain; the top of it is half a days journey broad, and 14 Italian miles high. There are 20 Monaste∣ries upon it of Greekish Colieres, a laborious kinde of silly Friers, and kinde to strangers: The chiefest of which Cloisters, are called Victopodos, and Agios laura, being all of them strongly walled and fencible.

Upon the third day from Salonica, wee arrived in the Road of Tenedos, which is an Island in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a Castle, and a faire Haven for all sorts of Vessels: it produceth good store of Wines, and the best supposed to be in all the South-east parts of Europe, or yet in Asia. The Island is not big, but exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood, as Virgil reported, Aeneid. 2.

Est in conspectu Tenedos, notissima famainsula, In sight of Troy, a stately Isle I fand Shut up with Pontus, from the Trojan land; Whose beauteous bounds made me wish there to stay, Or that I might transport the same away; Else like Tritonean rude Propontick charms, T'imbrace sweet Tenes, always in mine arms.

And again:

Insula dives opum, Priami dum regna manebant. An Isle most rich, in Silks, delicious Wine, When Priams Kingdome did in glory shine. Where Ceres now, and Bacchus love to dwell, And Flora too, in Berecinthiaes Cell.

In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseils, intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio, when they were busie at venerall rilting, with their new elected Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seen fall out with Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their too much folly, with too dear a repentance. They and I resolving to view Troy, did hire a Ianizary to be our conductor & protector,

and a Greek to be our Interpreter. Where when wee lan∣ded, we saw here and there many relicks of old walls, as wee travelled through these famous bounds. And as wee were advanced toward the East part of Troy, our Greek brought us to many Tombs, which were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombs of Hector, Ajax, Achilles, Troylus, and many other valiant Champions, with the Tombs also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojan Dames: Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchers, but for their particular names, & nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I believe my Interpreter, sith it is more then 3000 and odde years ago, that Troy was destroyed.

Here Tombs I view'd, old Monuments of Times, And fiery Trophyes, fix'd for bloody crimes: For which Achilles Ghost did sigh and say, Curst be the hands, that sakelesse Trojans slay; But more fierce Ajax, more Ulysses Horse, That wrought griefs ruine; Priam's last divorce: And here inclos'd, within these clods of dust, All Asia's honour, and cross'd Paris lust.

He shewed us also the ruines of King Priams palace, and where Anchises the father of Aeneas dwelt. At the North-east corner of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hel∣lespont, there is a gate yet standing, and a piece of a reaso∣nable high wall; upon which I found three pieces of rusted money, which afterward I gave two of them to the youn∣ger brethren of the Duke of Florence, then studying in Pre∣tolino: The other being the fairest with a large picture on the one side, I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a lear∣ned Scholler, Master Strachon, my Countrey man, then Mathematician to the Duke of Guise, who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it.

Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a most dele∣ctable plaine abounding now in Cornes, Fruites, and deli∣cate Wines, and may be called the garden of Natolia: yet not populous, for there are but only five scattered Villages, in all that bounds: The length of Troy hath bin, as may be discerned by the fundamentall walls yet extant, about twenty Italian miles, which I reckon to be ten Scottish or fifteene English miles; lying along the sea side betweene the three Papes of Ida, and the furthest end Eastward of the River Simois: whose breadth all the way hath not outstrip'd the fields above two miles: The inha∣bitants of these five scattered Bourges therein, are for the most part Greekes, the rest are Iewes, and Turkes.

And loe here is mine Effigie affixed with my Turkish habit, my walking staff, & my Turbant upon my head, even as I travelled in the bounds of Troy, and so through all Turkey: Before my face on the right hand standeth the Easterne and sole gate of that sometimes noble City, with a piece of a high wall, as yet undecayed: And without this Port runneth the River Simois (inclosing the old Grecian Campe) downe to the Marine, where it imbra∣ceth the Sea Propontis: A little below, are bunches of grapes denoting the vinyards of this fructiferous place; adioyning neare to the fragments and ruines of Priams Palace, sirnamed Ilium: And next to it a ravenous Eagle, for so this part of Phrygia is full of them: So beneath my feet lye the two Tombs of Priamus & Hecuba his Queen: And under them the incircling hills of Ida, at the west South-west end of this once Regall Town; and at my left hand, the delicious and pleasant fields of Olives and Fig-trees, where with the bowels of this famous soyle are in∣ter larded: And here this piece or portraiture deciphered; the continuing discourse, inlarging both mean & manner.

[illustration]

Troy was first built by Dardanus sonne to Corinthus King of Corinth, who having slaine his brother Iasius, fled to this Country, and first erected it, intitling it Dar∣dania: Next it was called Troy of Tros, from whom the Country was also named Troas: It was also termed

Ilion of Ilus, who built the Regall palace sirnamed Ilium: This Citie was taken and defaced by Hercules, and the Grecians, in the time of Laomedon, himselfe being killed the latter time: Lastly, Troy was re-edified by Priamus, who giving leave to his sonne Paris to ravish Helena, Me∣nelaus Wife, enforced the Greekes to renew the ancient quarrell: Where after 10 yeares siege the Towne was ut∣terly subverted, Anno Mundi 1783.

Whence Princely Homer, and that Mantuan born, Sad Tragicktunes, erect'd for Troy forlorn; And sad Aeneas, fled to the Affrick Coast, Where Carthage groan'd, to hear how Troy was lost: But more kinde Dido (when this wandring Prince, Had left Numidia, stole away from thence) Did worser groan; who with his shearing sword, Her self she gor'd, with many weeping word. O dear Aeneas! dear Trojan, art thou gone? And then she fell, death swallowed up her mone: They land at Cuma, where Latinus King Did give Aeneas, Lavinia, with a Ring: Where now in Latium, that old Dardan stock Is extant yet, though in the Descent broke.

On the South-west side of Troy, standeth the Hill Ida, having three heads. On which Paris out of a sensuall de∣light, rejecting Iuno, and Pallas, judged the golden Ball to Venus, fatall in the end to the whole Country. The ruines of which are come to that Poeticall Proverb:

Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit. Now corn doth grow, where once faire Troy stood, And soil made fat with streams of Phrygian blood.

Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, & dined at a Village named Extetash: I remem∣ber, in discharging our covenant with the Ianizary, who

was not contented with the former condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given the wrathfull Ianizary belaboured them both with a cudgell, till the blood sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if hee cannot make his owne part good, hee must al∣wayes at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise hee will be constrained; doubtlesse, with stroakes, to pay twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a Dog: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, hee must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit shew of thanks, and happy too oftentimes, if so hee escape.

Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of old Sestos, and Abydos in a small Frigot, which are two Fortresses op∣posite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abidos in Asia where Bythinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant, and both of them foure leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admi∣rable fidelity in love.

Which curling tops, Leander cut in two, And through proud billows, made his passage go; To court his Mistris: O Hero the fair! Whom Hellespon to stop, was forc'd to dare: Sweet was their sight to other, short their stay, For still Leander, was recald by day. At last stern Ae••le, puft on Neptunes pride, And gloomy Hellespont, their loves divide:

He swims, and sinks, and in that glutting down, The angry Fates, did kinde Leander drown: Of which when Hero heard, judge you her part, She smote her self, and rent in two her heart.

But now they are commonly called the Castles of Galli∣poly, yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, between which no Ships may enter, without knowledge of the Captains, and are by them strictly and warily searched, lest the Christians should carry in Men, Munition, or Furni∣ture of Armes, for they stand in feare of surprising the Town: And at their return they must stay three days, be∣fore they are permitted to go through, because of tran∣sporting away any Christian slaves, or if they have com∣mitted any offence in the Citie, the knowledge there••f may come in that time.

At that same instant of my abode at Abidos, there were fourescore Christian Slaves, who having cut their Captaines throat, with the rest of the Turks, run away from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the Watch of both Castles, where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres; yet they escaped with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring landing, and succour, for th••ir victuals were done: vi∣ctuals they sent them, but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land. In end, the Sea growing some∣what boysterous, the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables, and runne the Galley a shoare: Upon this they were entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley, fearing least the Turks should thereby forge some quarrell. The yeare following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poore slaves having past the Castles, had been so wounded and killed with

the great shot, and the Galley ready to sinke, they were enforced to runne a shoare, where the next morning be∣ing apprehended, they were miserably put to death. Be∣twixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about fortie leagues. Over this straight Xerxes did make a bridge of Boats to passe into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered, hee caused the Sea to be beaten with 300 stripes.

And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Helle∣spont, and seeing all the Sea clad with his Army, his Hor∣ses, Chariots, and Ships, the teares burst from his eyes: and being demanded the cause of his griefe? answered, O, said hee, I weep because within a hundred yeares, all this great and glorious sight, shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be alive, nor Chariot, nor En∣gine of War, but shall be turn'd to dust; and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was a worthy saying, from such a Heathenish Monarch, who saw no further, than the present misery of this life.

Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barber, and imbarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigate. The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the ancient Citie of Gallipolis, the second seat of Thracia, which was first builded by Cajus Cali∣gula, and somtimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules: It was the first Towne in Europe, that the Turks conque∣red; and was taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes, Anno 1438.

North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria, commonly Volgaria, and was called so of certaine peo∣ple. that came from a Country, neere to the River Volgo in Russia, about the yeare 666. It lyeth betweene Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Ancients, it was

thought to be the lower Misia (but more iustly) the Re∣gion of Dacia. The chife Town is Sophia, which some hold to be that Towne, which Ptolomeus named Te∣bisca.

Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Pri∣amus: for which fact He••uba, the young Princes mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned the wortthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper in mastring and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present of accurately wrought glasse; he (having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and gratitude of Maiestie) broke them all to pieces: lest by mishap, any of his Servants doing the like, might stir or move him to an intemperate choler.

The Greekes here, and generally through all Greece, beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, as the Papists beare to Rome: All of which Religious Coliers or Friers, must toile and labour for their li∣ving, some in the Vines, some in the Corn-fields, and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are alwayes occupied for the maintaining of their Families: they are but poorely clad, yet wonder∣full kinde to all Viadants; so that who so have occasion to passe that Mountain, are there lodged, and furnished of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrate or solitary livers, whose simple and harmlesse lives, may be termed to be the very Emblemes of Piety and Devotion, knowing nothing but to serve God, and to live soberly in their carriage,

The chifest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Ab∣dera, where Democritus was borne, who spent his life in

laughing, Sestos, Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adria∣noplis, which was taken by Bajazet, Anno 1362.

As wee sayled betweene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian brought up in Padua that was in my company, shewed ••ee Colchis, whence Iason, with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aid of Medeas skill, did fetch the golden Fleece. This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, who was here drowned; and of the Countrey Pontus, ioyning to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis and Cappadocia. After wee had fetcht up the famous City of Chalcedon in Bethinia on our right hand: I beheld on our left hand, the prospect of that lit∣tle World, the great City of Constantinople; which in∣deed yieldeth such an outward splendour to the amazed beholder, of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things, whereof now the world make so great accompt, that the whole earth cannot e∣quall it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entred in the channell of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lyeth, I adressed my selfe to a Greeke lodging, to refresh my selfe till morning.

But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my land∣ing, for bidding farewell to the Turkes, who had kindly used me three dayes, in our passage from the Castles, the Master of the boate saying adio Christiano: There were foure French Runnagates standing on the Cay; who hea∣ring these words, fell desperatly upon me blaspheming the Name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beate me most cruelly: And if it had not beene for my friendly Turkes, who leaped out of their boat and relieved mee, I had doubtlesse there perished. The other Infidels stan∣ding

by, said to mee, behold what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned Mahome∣tans, cannot abide, nor regard the Name of thy God; having left them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left mee, I entred a Greek lodging, where I was kindly recei∣ved, and much eased of my blows, because they caused to oint them with divers Oiles, and refreshed mee also with their best enttrtainment, gratis, because I had suffe∣red so much for Christs sake, and would receive no re∣compence againe. The day following, I went to salute, and doe my duty to the right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Glover, then Lord Ambassadour for our late Gracious Sovereigne King Iames, of blessed Memory, who most ge∣nerously and courteously entertained mee three moneths in his house, to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my following Discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be more particularly avouched: for certainly I never met with a more compleat Gentleman in all my Travels; nor one in whom true worth did more illustrate vertue.

The fourth Part.

NOw sing I of Byzantium: Bosphors tides, 'Twixt Europe, and the lesser Asia glides: Their Hyppodrome, adorn'd with triumphs past, And blackish Sea; the Jadileck more fast: The Galata, where Christian Merchants stay, And five Ambassadours for commerce aye: The Turkish custome•• and their manners rude, And of their discent from the Scythian blood:

Their harsh Religion, and their sense of Hell, And Paradice: their laws I shall you tell: Then last of Mahomet, their God on earth His end, his life, his parentage, and birth.

COnstantinople is the Metropolitan of Thra∣cia, so called of Constantine the Emperour, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old Bizantium, but now by the Turkes Stambolda, which signifieth in their lan∣guage, a large City: It was also called E∣thuse, & by the Greeks Stymbolis. This City (according to ancient Authors) was first founded by the Lacedemonians, who were conducted from Lacedemon, by one Pansanias, a∣bout the year of the World 3294, which after their consul∣tation with Apollo, where they should settle their abode & dwelling place, they came to Bythinia, and builded a Citie which was called Chalcedon. But the commodity of fish∣ing falling out contrary to their expectation, in respect that the fishes were afraid of the white banks of the City; the Captain Pausanias left that place, and builded Byzan∣tium in Thracia, which first was by him intitled Ligos. By Pliny, Iustine, and Strabo, it was sirnamed Vrbs Illustrissi∣ma, because it is repleat with al the blessings, earth can give to man; yea, and in the most fertile soil of Europe.

Zonoras reporteth that the Athenians, in an ambitious and insatiable desire of Sovereignty, wonne it from the Lacedemonians: They thus being vanquished, suborned Severus the Roman Emperour, to besiege the same: But the Citie Byzantium being strongly fortified with walls, the Romans could not take it in, untill extream famine constrained them to yield, after three yeares siege: and Severus to satisfie his cruelty, put all to the sword; that

were within, and razed the wals, giving it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This Citie thus remai∣ned in calamitie, till Constantine (resigning the Citie of Rome, and a great part of Italy to the Popish inheritance of the Roman Bishops) re-edified the same, and translated his Imperiall Seat in the East, and reduced all the Empire of Greece, to a unite tranquilitie, with immortall reputa∣tion, which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.

But these disorders at length reformed by the severe administration of Justice, for the which, and other wor∣thy respects, the said Constantine sonne of Saint Helen, and Emperour of Rome (which afterward the Pope u∣surped) was sirnamed the Great. He first in his plantation called this Citie new Rome; but when he beheld the flou∣rishing, and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious situation thereof, he called it Constan∣tinopolis, after his owne name. This Emperour lived there many prosperous years, in most happy estate: like∣wise many of his Successours did, untill such time, that Mahomet the second of that name, and Emperour of the Turks; living in a discontented humour, to behold the great and glorious Dominions of Christians; especially this famous Citie, that so flourished in his eies, by mo∣mentall circumstances, collected his cruell intentions, to the full height of ambition; whereby hee might abolish the very name of Christianity, and also puft up with a presumptuous desire, to enlarge his Empire, went with a marvellous power, both by Sea and Land, unto this mag∣nificent Mansion.

The issue whereof was such, that after divers batteries and assaults, the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walls, and entred the City, which breach was about forty

paces long, as by the new colour being built up again, is easily knowne from the old walls, where when they en∣tered, they made a wonderfull massacre of poor afflicted Christians, without sparing any of the Roman kinde, ei∣ther male or female. In the mercilesse fury of these infer∣nall Imps, the Emperour Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off, was carried upon the point of a Lance through all the City, and Campe of the Turkes, to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianity. His Em∣presse, Daughters, and other Ladies, after they were abu∣sed in their bodies, were put to death in a most cruell and terrible manner.

By this overthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet took twelve Kingdoms, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is a lamentable losse, of such an il∣lustrious Empire. Thus was that Imperiall Citie lost, in the yeare 1453, May 29, when it had remained under the government of Christians, 1198 yeares. It is now the chief abode of the great Turk Sultan Achmet, the fifteenth Grand Cham, of the line of Ottoman, who was then about twenty three years of age; whose sonne Osman since, and after his death, was murdered by the Ianizaries, being 14 years of age, after his return to Constantinople, from Po∣dolia in Poland: And in his place, his Uncle Mustapha made Emperour, whose weaknesse and unworthinesse be∣ing eft-soons discovered, he was displaced, and Amurath Osmans brother made Grand Signior, who presently raign∣eth; and not without great feare of his Ianizaries and Timariots, who twice in three yeeres have lately made in∣surrection against him. This Emperour Achmet, who was alive when I was there, was more given to Venery, then Martiality, which gave a greater advantage to the Per∣sians in their defensive wars.

Concerning the Empire, wee may observe some fatall contrarieties in one and the same name: For Philip the Fa∣ther of Alexander, laid the first foundation of the Macedo∣nian Monarchy, and Philip the Father of Perseus ruined it. So was this Town built by a Constantine the sonne of He∣lena, a Gregory being Patriarch, and was lost by a Constan∣tine, the sonne of a Helena, a Gregory being also Patriarch. The Turks have a Prophesie, that as it was wonne by a Mahomet, so it shall be lost by a Mahomet.

The form, or situation of this Citie, is like unto a Tri∣angle, the South part whereof, and the East part, are invi∣roned with Hellespontus, and Bosporus Thraicus; and the North part adjoyning to the firme land. It is in compasse about the walls, esteemed to be 18 miles: in one of these triangled points, being the Southeast part, and at the joy∣ning of Bosphore and Hellespont, standeth the Palace of the Great Turke, called Seralia and the Forrest wherein he hunteth; which is two miles in length.

The speciall object of Antiquitie, I saw within this Ci∣ty, was the incomparable Church of Saint Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed Vessels, were innumerable, in the time of Iustinian the Emperour, who first builded it; but now converted to a Mosque, and consecrated to Mahomet, after a diabolicall manner.

I saw also the famous Hyppodrome, and the Theater whereon the people stood, when the Emperours used to run their Horses, and make their Princely shows on so∣lemne dayes, which is now altogether decaid: There is a great Columne in that same place, in the which all these things memorable, that have bin done in this Hyppodrome, are superficially carved.

Upon the West corner of the City, there is a strong, Fortresse, fortified with seven great Towers, and well

furnished with Munition, called by Turks, Iadileke: In this Prison, are Bassawes, and Subbassawes imprisoned, and also great men of Christians, if any offence be com∣mitted. Their place of Exchange is called Bezastan, wherein all sorts of commodities are to be sold; as Sat∣tins, Silkes, Velvets, Cloth of Silver and Gold, and the most exquisitely wrought Hand-kerchiefes, that can be found in the world; with infinite other commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.

I have seene men and women as usually sold here in Markets, as Horses and other beasts are with us: The most part of which are Hungarians, Transilvaniaus, Ca∣rindians, Istrians, and Dalmatian Captives, and of other places besides, which they can overcome. Whom, if no compassionable Christian will buy, or relieve; then must they either turne Turke, or be addicted to perpetuall sla∣very. Here I remember of a charitable deed, done for a sinfull end, and thus it was; A Ship of Marseilles, called the great Dolphin, lying here forty dayes at the Galata, the Master Gunner, named Monsieur Nerack, and I fal∣ling in familiar acquaintance, upon a time he told me se∣cretly that he would gladly for Conscience and Merits sake, redeeme some poore Christian slave from Turkish Captivity. To the which, I applauded his advice, and told him the next Friday following I would assist him to so worthy an action: Friday comes, and he and I went for Constantinople, where the Market of the slaves being rea∣dy we spent two houres in viewing and reviewing five hundred Males and Females. At last I pointed him to have bought an old man or woman, but his minde was contrary set, shewing me that he would buy some virgin, or young widdow, to save their bodies unde floured with Infidels. The price of a virgin was too deare for him, be∣ing

a hundred Duckets, and widdows were farre under, and at an easier rate: When wee did visit and search them that wee were mindfull to buy, they were strip'd stark na∣ked before our eyes, where the sweetest face, the youngest age, and whitest skin was in greatest value and request: The Iews sold them, for they had bought them from the Turkes:: At last we fell upon a Dalmatian widdow, whose pitifull looks, and sprinkling teares strook my soule al∣most to death for compassion: whereupon I grew earnest for her reliefe, and hee yielding to my advice, shee is bought and delivered unto him, the man being 60 yeares of age, and her price 36 Duckets. We leave the Market and came over again to Galata, where hee and I tooke a Chamber for her, and leaving them there, the next mor∣ning I returned early, suspecting greatly the dissembling devotion of the Gunner to be nought but luxurious lust, and so it proved: I knocked at the Chamber doore, that hee had newly locked, and taken the key with him to the ship, for he had tarried with her all that night; and she an∣swering me with teares, told mee all the manner of his u∣sage, wishing her selfe to be again in her former captivity: whereupon I went a shipboord to him, and in my griefe I swore, that if hee abused her any more after that manner, and not returned to her distresse, her Christian liberty; I would first make it knowne to his Master the Captaine of the Ship, and then to the French Ambassadour: for hee was mindfull also, his lust being satisfied to have sold her over againe to some other: At which threatning the old Pallyard became so fearfull, that he entred in a reasonable condition with mee, and the Ship departing thence sixe dayes there after, he freely resigned to me her life, her li∣berty and freedome: which being done, and he gone, un∣der my hand before divers Greekes, I subscribed her liber∣tie,

and hired her in the same Taverne for a yeare, taking nothing from her, for as little had she to give me, except many blessings and thankefull prayers: This French Gun∣ner was a Papist and here you may behold the dregs of his devotion, and what seven nights leachery cost him, you may cast up the reckoning of 36 Duckets.

In Constantinople there have happened many fearefull fires, which often have consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest Monuments there, and the beauty of infinite Palaces; as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan Historiogra∣pher in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000. houses, of which I saw a number of ruines (as yet) unre∣paired. It is subject also to divers Earth-quakes, which have often subverted the Towers, Houses, Churches, and Walles of the City to the ground. Especially in the yeare 1509 in the raigne of Bajazeth, the ninth Emperour of the Turkes, in which time, more then 13000. persons were all smothered and dead, and laid up in heapes unbu∣ried. And commonly every third yeare, the pestilence is exceeding great in that City, and after such an odious manner; that those who are infected (before they die) have the halfe of their one side rot, and fall away: so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of their bowels. It is not licentiated here, nor else where in all Turkie, that any Christian should enter in their Moskies, or Churches, without the conduct of a Ianizary the try∣all whereof I had when I viewed that glorious and great Church of Sancta Sophia, once the beauty and ornament of all Europe; and is now the chiefe place, to which the Great Turke or Emperour goeth every Fryday, their Sab∣b••th day, to do his devotion, being accompanied with 3000 Ianizaries, besides Bashawes, Chawses and Hagars.

Truly I may say of Constantinople, as I said once of the World, in the Lamentado of my second Pilgrimage;

A painted Whoore, the mask of deadly sin, Sweet, fair without, and stinking foul within.

For indeed outwardly it hath the fairest shew, and in∣wardly in the streets being narrow, and most part cove∣red, the filthiest and deformed buildings in the world; the reason of its beauty, is, because being situate on moderate prospective heights, the universall tectures, a far off, yield a delectable shew, the covertures being erected like the backe of a Coach after the Italian fashion with gutterd tile. But being entred within, there is nothing but a stink∣ing deformity, and a lothsome contrived place; without either internall domestick furniture, or externall decore∣ments of Fabricks palatiatly extended. Notwithstanding that for its situation, the delicious wines and fruits, the temperate climate, the fertile circumjacent fields, and for the Sea Hellespont, and pleasant Asia on the other side: it may truly be called the Paradice of the earth.

Perah is over against Constantinople, called of old, Cor∣nubizantii; but by the Turkes, Galata, being both a quar∣ter of a mile distant, and the Thraick Bosphore dividing the two. It is the place at which Christian Ships touch, and where the Ambassadours of Christendome lie. The num∣ber of the Christian Ambassadours that then lay there, and now do, were these, first the Roman Emperours, then the French, thirdly, the English, fourthly, the Venetian, and lastly, the Holland Ambassadours, with whom often for discourses I was familiar, although with Noble Sir Thomas Glover I was still domestick for twelve weeks, whose Se∣cretary for that time was my Countriman, Mr. Iames Rol∣lock, who now, as I take it, is resident in Striveling, he was the last Scotsman I saw till my returne to Malta, after my departure from Constantinople.

From thence I went to the black Sea: but commonly Mare Euxinum, where I saw Pompeyes Pillar of Marble, standing neer the shoare, upon a rocky Island: and not far from thence, is a Lanthorne higher then any Steeple, whereon there is a pan full of liquour, that burneth eve∣ry night to give warning unto ships how neer they come the shore; It is not much unlike these Lanthornes of Li∣gorne and Genua. The water of this Sea is never a whit blacker then other Seas: but it is called blacke, in respect of the dangerous events in darke and tempestuous nights, which happen there; and because of the Rockes and Sands which lye a great way from the main shore upon which many vessels many times are cast away. The blacke Sea is not farre from Galata, for I both went and returned in one day, being forty miles out, and in: For I went by boate, and not by land, through the pleasant Euripus, that runneth between the Euxine Sea and Hellespont: And by the way, I cannot but regrate the great losse Sir Thomas Glover received by the Duke of Moldavia, who chargeably entertained him two yeares in his house, and furnished him with great monies, and other necessaries fit for his eminency: This Duke or Prince of Bugdonia was derpaved of his Principalities by Achmet, and fled hither to the Christian Ambassadours for reliefe: To whom when all the rest had refus'd acceptance, only Noble Sir Thomas received him, maintaining him, and seriously wrought with the Grand Signior and his Counsell, to have had him restored againe to his Lands, but could not prevaile.

In the end, Sir Thomas Glovers five yeares time of Am∣bassadry being expired, and the Duke hearing privately that Sir Paul Pinder was to come in his place, as indeed he came too soone: this Moldavian Prince, stole earely a∣way

in the morning over to Constantinople; and long ere midday turn'd Turke, and was circumcised, contenting himselfe onely for all his great Dukedome with a Palace and a yearely pension of twelve thousand Chickens of Gold during his life. Which, when we heard, the Am∣bassadour, and we were all amazed and discontented: He was indebted to the Ambassadour above 15 thousand Chickens of Gold, yet ere my leaving Galata, I went twice over with Sir Thomas, and saw him and found him atten∣ded with a number of Turkes, who when he saw me, took me kindly by the hand, for wee had bin two moneths fa∣miliar in the Ambassadors house before.

The English Ambassador within halfe a yeare, recove∣red the halfe of his moneys, the other halfe he was forced to forgoe for divers importunate respects. Nay, I must say one thing more of this Knight, hee relieved more slaves from the Galleys, payd their ransomes, and sent them home freely to their Christian stations, and kept a better house, than any Ambassadour did, that ever lay at Constantinople, or ever shall to the worlds end

His mother was a Polonian, who comming from Dan∣sick to London, was delivered of him upon the Sea: Af∣terward he was brought up at Constantinople from a boy, and spoke, and wrot the Slavonian Tongue perfectly: And thence returning for London, he was the first Ambassadour King Iames, of blessed Memory, sent ••o Constantinople, after his comming to the Crowne of England: And thus much for this worthy and ever renowned Knight, whose prayse and fame I cannot too much celebrate.

The Turkes have no Bels in their Churches, neither the use of a clocke, nor numbring of houres, but they have high round Steeples, for they contrafact, and contradict all the formes of Christians: when they goe to pray, they

are all called together by the voice of crying men, who go upon the bartizings of their Steeples, shouting and crying with a shrill voice: Lailla, Eillalla, Mahomet Rezul allah, that is: God is a great God, and Mahomet is his Prophet, or otherwise there is but one God.

In Constantinople, and all other places of Turkie, I ever saw three Sabbaths together, in one Weeke: The Friday for the Turks, the Saturday for Iews, and the Sunday for Christians: but the Turks Sabbath is worst kept of all: for they will not spare to doe any labour on their Holy Day. They have meetings at their publick Prayers, every day five s••verall times: the first is, before the rising of the Sun: The second is, a little before midday: The third is, at three of the clock in the afternoon: The fourth is, at the Sun-setting, Summer and Winter: Fifthly, the last houre of Prayer, is alwayes two or three houres within night. Many of them will watch till that time, and not sleep; and others sleeping, will awake at the voice of the Cryer, and go to Church.

In signe of reverence, and in a superstitious devotion before they go into their Mosquees, they wash themselves in a Lavotoio, beginning at the privy members, next their mouthes, faces, feet and hands: And entring, they in∣cline their heads downwards to the earth; and falling on their knees, doe kisse the ground three times. Then the Talasumany, which is the chiefe Priest, mounteth upon a high stone▪ where hee maketh many Orations to Maho∣met: and the rest to assist him, continue a long time sha∣king their heads, as though they were out of all their naturall understanding, repeating oft this word Haylamo, Haylamo; and after that will sigh grievously, saying, Hou∣pek. And somtimes will abruptly sing the Psalmes of Da∣vid in the Arabick tongue, but to no sense, nor veritie of

the Scriptures. And at their devotion, they will not to∣lerate any women in their company, lest they should with∣draw their minds and affections from their present zeale: But the men observe their turns and times, and the women theirs, going always when they goe, either of them alone to their devotion: The like custome, but not after the same manner have I seen observed among the Protestants in Transilvania, Hungaria, Moravia, Bohemia, and Silesia; who when they come to Church on the Sabbath day, there is a Taffata Curtaine drawne from the pulpit to the Church wall over against it: The men sitting on the right hand of the preacher, the women on the left; whose eyes and faces cannot see other during Divine Service, save on∣ly the Minister that over-toppeth both sides; and truly me thought it was a very modest, and necessary observation. The Turks are generally circumcised after the manner of the Iews, but not after eight dayes, but after eight yeares. The Church-men are called Hadach Casseis, or Darvises, who weare on their heads green Shashes, to make distin∣ction between them and others: for they are accounted to be of Mahomets Kindred.

They hold all mad men in great reverence, as Prophets or Saints, and if they intend any far journy, private purpo∣ses, or otherwise, before they go to battaile, they come to crave counsell of these Santones, to know if they shall pro∣sper, or not, in their attempts. And whatsoever answer these Bedlem prophets give, it is holden to be so credible, as if an Oracle had spoken it. The Turkish priests are for the most part Moores, whom they account to be a base people in respect of themselves, calling them Totseks: Their principall Church Governour is called Mufti, Whose definitive sentence in Law or Religion is pene∣trable, and absolutely valiant: Neither abaseth hee him∣selfe

to sit in the Divano, nor affordeth more reverence to the Emperour, than he to him. The other sort of Church∣men are the Naipi or young Doctors, the Caddi, whereof there is two or three in every City to judge the offences; the Calsi or Readers, and the Mudressi, which use to over∣see the Caddeis in their Office: They were all formerly Idolatrous Pagans, and were fast initiated in Mahometa∣nisme, when they got the Sovereigntie of the Persian Scepter; by the great Battaile, and fortunate conduct of Tangrolipix, in overthrowing Mahomet a Saracenicall Sultan of Persia; who inthronized himselfe, in the Persian Chaire of Estate, Anno 1030. This prerogative Title of Mufti, was first intitled Caliph, whose residence was in Babylon, and wholly supream over the Mahometans: But the Aegyptians after the death of Mot adi Bila, withdrew themselves from this Babylonian obedience, and chused one of their owne, to whom the Moores of Barbary sub∣mitted themselves.

But now since Bagdat, or Babylon hath been reco∣vered by the Persians, about foure yeares ago, their Mahome∣tanicall Mufti or Caliph, that then was resident there, is now retired to Constantinople, where he sitteth in a more securer place, thinking rather to follow the Grandeur of the Turke, than the broken Estate of the Persian, whence I may truly say, hee is Fortunes Page, that favoureth them most, who have most favourers.

This unwealdy body having two heads, began to de∣cline; for Allan a Tartarian Captaine, starved Mustat∣zem the last divided Babylonian Caliph to death and roo∣ted ••ut all his posterity: And then Sarancon the first Tur∣kish King in Aegypt, brained the last Aegyptian Caliph with his Mace, leaving none of the Issue, or Kindred survi∣ving. The Office of the Caliph is now executed in Turkie

under the name Mufti, or high Priest. All Turkes do detest the colour of blacke, and thinke those that weare it, shall never enter into Paradise: But the colour of greatest request among them is greene; wherewith if any Christi∣an be apparrelled, he shall be sure of Bastinadoes, and o∣ther punishments: Neither may he use the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth, (under the paine of a cruell censure to be inflicted upon him) whom they so much adore, and honour.

This Mahomet was borne, Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia, a beggarly Village in Arabia, whose father whs Ab∣dillas, an Ismaelite; and his mother Cadiges, a Iew; both different in Religion, and also of diverse Countries: In his youth he was partly taught the Iudaicall Law, and partly the superstition of the Gentiles. Many alleadge his paren∣tage was never knowne (being so base) untill his riper yeares bewrayed the same: I also learned that his Pa∣rents dyed whilst he was a young child, and was turned over to his Uncle, who afterward sold him to one Abde∣minoples, a Merchant in Palestina: And he, after a little time, having remarked his ready and prompt wit, sent him downe to Aegypt, to be a Factor in his Merchandise, where, by his dissimulate behaviour, he crept in favour with Christians, Iewes, and Gentiles. He was in propor∣tion of meane stature, lively faced, big-headed, eloquent in language, of a sanguinicall complexion, and a couragi∣ous stomacke, in all attempts exceeding desperate: he was also deceitfull, variant and fraudulent, as may appeare in his Satanicall Fables, expressed in his Alcoran, where oft one saying contradicteth another, both in words, and effect.

About this time there was one Sergius, an Italian born, binished from Constantinopole, because he allowed of the

Arrian sect; who afterward came to Palestina, and fre∣quenting the house of Abdeminoples, fell in acquaintance with the young man Mahomet; and this Frier perceiving the aspiring quicknes of his braine, bore a great affection to his naturall perfections. Shortly after this, his Master dying without heires, and his Mistresse injoying many rich possessions; she, for these his extraordinary quallities, from the degree of a Servant, advanced him to be her own Husband.

That unhappy match was no sooner done but she repen∣ted it with teares: for he being subject to the falling sick∣nesse, would often fall flat on the ground before her, sta∣ring, gaping, and foaming at the mouth; so that his com∣pany became loathsome and detestable. The which be∣got contempt in his bed-fellow; being to him manifested, he strove (under the shadow of invented lies) to mitigate the fury of her hatefull disdaine; faining, and attesting, that when he fell to the ground, it was the great God spoke with him, before whose face (saith hee) I am not able to stand▪ such is the soliciting of me, with words of terrour and Majesty, to reforme the wayes of the de∣generate people with fire and sword; sith Moses and Christ (notwithstanding of their miracles) have beene re∣jected by the world. The old Trot, believing all these flat∣tering speeches, was not only appeased of her former con∣ceit, but also loving him more then a husband, reverenced him for a divine Prophet; imparting, the same unto her neighbours and gossips. After they had lived two yeares together, the bewitched Matron dying, left all her posses∣sions to Mahomet; both because she accounted him to be a Prophet, and next for that loving regard she had of his render body, being but 30 yeares of age. He being thus left with great riches, was puft up in pride and hauty de∣sires,

striving by all inordinary meanes, to bring his new devised plots to perfection. For the better performance whereof, he consulted with this Sergius a Nestorian Monk, and Atodala another Thalmudist, a diverted Iew: hereup∣on these two helhounds, & the other perverst Runnagate, patchedup a most monstrous, and divellish Religion to themselves, and to their miscreant beleevers; partly com∣posed of the Iudaicall law, partly of Arrianisme, partly in∣termixed with some points of Christianity; and partly of other fantasticall, fopperies, which his owne invention suggested unto him.

The Booke of this Religion is named the Alcoran, the whole body of which, is but an exposition, and glosse on the eight commandements he affixed; whereupon depen∣deth the whole Mahomet anicall Law: First, every one ought to beleeve that God is a great God, and onely God, and Mahomet is his Prophet. Secondly, every man must marry to encrease the Sectaries of Mahomet: Thirdly, every one must give of his his wealth to the poore: Fourthly, every one must make his prayers seven times a day: Fiftly, every one must keep a Lent, one moneth in the yeare, this Lent is cal∣led Byrham, or Ramazan: Sixtly, Be obedient to thy Pa∣rents; which Law is so neglected, that never any children were, or are more unnaturall then the Turkish be: Se∣venthly, thou shalt not kill, which they inviolable keepe a∣mongst themselves; but the poore Christians feele the smart thereof. Last and eightly Doe unto others, as thou wouldst be done unto thyselfe, the performers of which have large Sophisticall promises ascribed them.

This new coyned doctrine, was no sooner wrapt up in his execrable Alooran, but he began to spit forth his ab∣hominable and blasphenious heresies: Affirming, that Christ was not the sonne of the most high, nor that Mes∣sias

looked for; denying also the Trinity, with many o∣ther prophane blasphemies. The worke concluded, for the better advancement of his purpose, he married the daughter of the chiefe Prince of his own tribe: By which new affinity, he not onely seduced his Father in law, but also the whole linage of that family; by whose acceptance, and convertion, he also consederated with other associ∣ates, and waxed daily stronger. Contending continually to divulgate his name, aye more and more, he assembled his new Alcoranist: exhorting them to assist him in the besieging of Mecha, which Citizens had in derision rebu∣ked his law, and absolutely disdained his Mahometicall illusions: and promised to them, in such a well deserving attempt, both eternall felicity and the spoyles of these his contradictors; perswasively assuring them, that God would deliver all the gaine-sayers of his Alcoran into his hands. By which allurements they being moved, rose to the number of 3000 in Armes, and menaced Mecha, but the Citizens put him to flight, and so was he thrice ser∣ved; till in the end he wonne their City: wherein after his death he was intombed in an Iron Coffin: Which be∣twene two Adamants hangeth to this day (as I have been informed of sundry Turkes, who saw it) which confirmed in them a solid beliefe of his erronious doctrine.

But now of late the Turkes growing more circumspect then they were, and understanding the derision of Chri∣stians concerning their hanging Tombe, and because the Turkish Pilgrimes were often suffocated to death with a fabulous desert in going to Mecha; they have transported Mahomets Tombe now to Medina; which is a great deale nearer to Damascus, and at the entry of Arabia foelix; in a glorious Mosquee where the Tombe being close ground set, and richly covered with a golden Cannopy; they have

inhibited that any Christian shall come neare to it by two courses, to wi••, twenty foure miles, under the paine of death: which indeed they keep more strictly in execution, then Princely Proclamations are obeyed, observed, or re∣garded with us: either for Regall Statutes, or generall be∣nefits of Common-wealth: their continuance being but like the miracle of nine dayes wonder; return again from whence they came frustrate of power, and robbed of obe∣dience. From this time that he vanquished Mecha, casting out the Greek Officers, (for then all Arabia was under the Constantinoplitan Empire) the Sarazens began their com∣putation of yeares (as we from Christs Nativity) which they call Hegira, and begun about the yeare of our Re∣demption, 617. Concerning which time, that Mahomet compiled his devillish Alcoran, beginning his Empire; nigh about the sametime it is observed that Boniface the third begun his Empire, and Antichristian Title, for Phocas having killed the Emperour Mauritius, his wife and children: To secure himself of Italy, ready to revolt from such a Tyrant, made Boniface universall Bishop and Head of the Church.

This Boniface was the threescore and fourth Bishop, and first Pope of Rome: which was immediatly thereafter confirmed by Pippin the French King, who also had mur∣dered his Master and Prince; and lastly, was ratified by Pa∣leologus, whose some Constantine about 14 yeares there∣after, had his head st••uck off, his Wife and Daughters put to cruell death, his Empire quite subverted, in the losse of twelve Kingdomes, and 200 Cities being the just judgements of God upon the some, for the fathers sake, who assigned such an ambitious charge unto that perverst Papalitie: After which predominant Titles and falsified power, what long controversies and disputes were

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between the Pope and the Councels of Carthage, Chalce∣don, Ephesus, Alexandria, and Nice. This Papall pre∣rogative begun with bloud, and murder, continueth in bloud, and massacres, and (doubtlesse) in the end shall pe∣rish, and be confounded with bloud, and abominable de∣struction.

And what great debate was of old by the Roman Em∣perours, in abolishing out of their Churches, the Ima∣ges and Idols of Stone, Iron, and Timber, &c. that for ma, ny hundred years they were not suffered to be seen? And at the beginning of the Papality, and a long time after, the Emperours prohibit them, and divers Popes have confir∣med, and approved the same: Yet succeeding Popes, and the Empire being divided in East and West, introducted again the dregs of their old Heathenish and Roman Ido∣latry: and yet they will not be content with the bare name of Images, but they impose a sirname or epithite of san∣ctitie, termimg them holy Images▪ Truly I may say, if it were not for these Images, and superstitious Idolatries, they assigne to them, the Turks had long ago beene con∣verted to the Christian Faith.

I have seen somtimes 2000 Turks travelling to Mecha, in Pilgrimage; which is in Arabia foelix: where many in a superstitious devotion, having seen the Tombe of Maho∣met, are never desirous to see the vanities of the World again: For in a frantick piety they cause a Smith to pull forth their eys: And these men are called afterward Hog∣geis, that is Holy-men, whom the Turks much honour, and regard: and are always led about from Towne to Towne by mens hands, and fed, and regarded like unto Princes; or like the Capuchins that scourge themselves on good Friday, met, and homaged at every passing street, with prayers, gifts, and adorations.

Some write, that Mahomet in his youth was a Soul∣dier, under the conduct of Heraclins, who impl••ying cer∣t••ine Arabians in an expedition to Persla, not onely deni∣ed them their wages, but told them, that, that was not to be given for Dogs, which was provided for the Ro∣man Souldiers. Hence some mutinies arising in the Ar∣my, he, with certaine Arabians, his Cuntry men, by fa∣ction, seperated themselves, and revolted: Whereupon Mahomet, encouraging them in their defection, was cho∣sen their Captain; and so for a certaine time they conti∣nued rebellious Runnagates, Theeves, and Robbers of all people. The subtlety of this dissembler was admirable, who knowing that he was destitute of heavenly gifts, to work miracles, feign'd, that God sent him with the sword: He also promised, at the end of a thousand yeares to re∣turne and bring them to Paradice; but he hath falsified his promise, for the time is expired fortie yares agoe. And they imagining, that he is either diseased, or become lame in his journey, have ascribed to him another thousand yeares to come. But long may their wicked and faithlesse generation gape, before he come, untill such time, that in a generall convocation, they be partakers of his endlesse damnation in Hell; unlesse it please the Lord in his mer∣cy to convert them before that time.

Mahomet chiefly prohibiteth in his Alcoran, the ea∣ting of Swines flesh, and drinking of Wine, which indeed the best sort do, but the baser kind are daily drunkards▪ Their common drinke is Sherpet, composed of water, Honey, and Sugar, which is exceeding delectable in the taste: And the usuall courtesie, they bestow on their friends, who visit them, is a Cup of Coffa made of a kind of seed called Coava, and of a blackish colour; which they drinke so hot as possible they can, and it is good to expell

the crudity of raw meates, and hearbes, so much by them frequented. And that those cannot attain to this liquour, must be contented with the cooling streames of water.

It is incident to Turkes, which have not the generosity of mind, to temper felicity, to be glutted with the super∣fluous fruites of doubtfull prosperity. Neither have they a patient resolution to withstand adversity, nor hope to expect the better alteration of time. But by an infused malice in their wicked spirits, when they are any way calamited, will with importunate compulsion, cause the poor slavish subiected Christians, surrender all they have, the halfe, or so forth, somtimes with strokes, menacings, and somtimes death it selfe; which plainly doth demon∣strate their excessive cruelty, and the poore Christians in∣evitable misery. And yea being complained upon, they are severely punished, or else put to death, for committing of such unallowed Ryots, being expresly against the Im∣periall Law of the Turke, concerning the quietnesse and li∣berty of the Christians.

I have often heard Turkes brawle one with another, most vilely but I never saw or heard that they either in private or publicke quarrels, durst strike one another, nei∣ther dare they for feare of severe punishment imposed to such quarrellers: But they will injure and strike Chri∣stians, who dare not say it is a misse, or strike again. It is a common thing with them, to kill their seruants for a very small offence, and when they have done, throw them like Dogs in a Ditch. And oftentimes (if not so) will lay them downe on their backes, hoysing up their heeles, bind their feete together, and fasten them to a post, and with a cudgell give them three or foure hundred blows on the soles of their feete: whereupon peraduenture, some ever go lame after. Their servants are bought and

sold, like bruit beasts in Markets; neither can these mise∣rable drudges ever recover liberty, except they buy them∣selves free, either by one means or other. Their wives are not far from the like servitude, for the men by the Alco∣ran, are admitted to marry as many women as they will, or their ability can keep. And if it shall happen, that any one of these women (I mean either Wife or Concubine) pro∣ftituteth her selfe to an other man besides her Husband; then may he by authority, binde her hands and feet, hang a stone about her neck, and cast her into a River, which by them is usually done in the night.

But when these Infidels please to abuse poore Christian women against their Husbands will, they little regard the transgression of the Christian Law; who as well defloure their Daughters, as their Wives; yet the devout Mahome∣tans never meddle with them, accounting themselves damned to copulate (as they think) with the off-spring of Dogs. The Turks generally, when they commit any co∣pulation with Christians, or their owne sexe, they wash themselves in a South running Fountaine, before the Sun rising, thinking thereby to wash away their sins.

If a Turke should happen to kill another Turke, his punishment is thus; after he is adjudged to death, he is brought forth to the Market place, and a blocke being brought hither of foure foot high; the malefactor is stript naked; and then laid thereupon with his belly downward, they draw in his middle together so small with running cords, that they strike his body a two with one blow: his hinder parts they cast to be eaten by hungry Dogs kept for the same purpose; and the fore-quarters and head they throw into a grievous fire, made there for the same end: and this is the punishment for man-slaughter.

But for murder or treason he is more cruelly used, for being convicted and condemned, he is brought forth be∣fore the people, where in the street there is an exceeding high Stripad er••cted, much like to a May-pole: which tree from the root, till it almost come to the top, it all set a∣bout full of long sharpe iron pikes, and their points up∣ward: the villain being strip'd naked, and his hands bound backward, they binde a strong rope about his shoulders and cleavings: And then hoysing him up to the pillow or top of the tree, they let the rope flee loose, whence down he fals, with a rattle, among the iron pikes, hanging either by the buttocks, by the brests, by the sides, or shoulders; and there sticking fast in the aire, he hangeth till his very bones rot and fall down, and his body be devoured being quick, with ravenous Eagles, kept to prey upon his car∣casse for the same purpose.

But now I come to their Nuptiall Rites, their custome and manner of Marriage is thus: If a man affecteth a yong maid, hee buyeth her of her parents, and giveth a good summe of money for her, and after shee is bought, he en∣rols her name in the Cadies Booke, witnessing shee is his bound wife, bought of her father, Lo, this is all the form of their Marriage: This being done, the father of the wo∣man sendeth houshold-stuffe home with the Bride; which is carried through the streets on Mulets or Camels backs, the two new married folks marching before, are conveyed with musique, their owne acquaintance and friends unto his house.

The Turkes in generall, whensoever they loath or dis∣like their wives, use to sell them in Markets, or otherwise bestow them on their men-slaves: And although their af∣fection were never so great towards them, yet they never eat together, for commonly the women stand, and serve

their Husbands at meate, and after that, that eate a part by themselves, secretly; without admission of any man∣kinde in their company, if they be above fourteen years of age. They go seldome abroad, unlesse it be each Thurs∣day at night, when they goe to the Graves to mourne for the dead, always covering their faces, very modest∣ly with white or black Maskes, which are never unce∣vered, till they return to their Houses. Many other Cere∣monies they have, which would be too prolix for mee to recite. And notwithstanding of all this externall gravity, amongst these hirelings, yet there are in Constantinople above 40000 Brothel-houses, Turqueski as Libertines; in any of which, if a Christian (especially Francks) be ap∣prehended, hee must either turne Turke, or Slave all his life: But the women by policie apply a counterpoyson to this severity, for they accustomably come to the Cham∣bers of their Benefactors and well-willers, or other places appointed secretly, where so they learne either a French Syncopa, or an Italian Bergamasko.

As for the great Turkes Concubines, they are of num∣ber eight hundred, being the most part Emeeres, Ba∣shawes, and Timariots daughters: The third and inmost part of the Seraglia is allotted for their Residence, be∣ing well attended at all times with numbers of Ennuchs, and other gelded officers: Every morning they are ranked in a great Hall, and set on high and open seats: where when hee commeth, and selecting the youngest and fai∣rest, hee toucheth her with a Rod; and immediately shee followeth him into his Cabine of Leachery, where if any action be done, shee receiveth from the Head-Clerke her approbation thereupon, which ever after∣wards serveth her for a conditionall Dowry to her Mar∣riage, with much honour and reputation besides: And

if any of them conceive, and the childe borne, it is suddenly dispatched from this life: The oldest hundreth, every first Friday of the moneth are turned out, and an∣other new hundred come in to make good the number: Their entry and issue is alwayes at one of the posterne gates of the Parke, toward the Sea side, and joyning nigh to their Palace: Whence crossing Bosphore, in an appoin∣ted Barge, they both go and come in one day, from and too the Galata, which I my selfe did see three severall times: The oldest and last hundred that are every moneth dismissed, they depart from the Galata, home to their Parents and severall Countries, rejoycing that they were counted worthy to be chosen and entertained to be their Emperours Concubines. The custome of the great Turke is, every Friday being their Sabbath day after their Service and Dinner, to run at the Glove in an open place before all the people, with some Hagars, or young striplings that accompany him; who have the Glove hanging as high on a stick, as we have the Ring with us: And truly of all the Turkish Emperours that ever were, this Achmet was the most gentle and favourable to Chri∣stians; who rather for his bounty and tendernesse might have beene intitulated the Christian Emperour, then the Pagan King: for hee disanulled all the exactions that had been inflicted by his predecessors upon his tributary Chri∣stian subjects; and cancelled the custome or tithe of their Male children, abrogating also that imposition on their Female Dowries.

The Lent of the Turkes is called Byrham, which con∣tinueth the space of a moneth once in the yeare: In all which time, from the Sunne rising to his setting, they neither eat nor drinke: And at their prayers (especially in this fasting) they use often to reiterate these words

Hue, hue, hue, that is; he, he, he alone is God; or, There is but one onely supreme Power; which they doe in de∣rision of Christians, who (as they say) adore three Gods. They have also 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sinister opinion, that at the day of Iudgement, when Mahomet shall appeare, there shall bee three displayed Banners, under the which all good people shall be conducted to paradise: the one of Moses, under the which the children of Israel shall be: the se∣cond of Iesus, under which Christians shall bee: The third of Mahomet, under the which shall be the Arabs, Turks, and Musilmans: All which, they think, shall be ele∣vated to severall honours; and they in promotion shall bee discerned from the rest, by Chambers made of re∣splendant light, which God will give them; wherein they shall have banquetings, feastings, dancing, and the best melody can be devised; and that they shall spend their times with amorous Virgins, (whose mansion shall be neer by) the men never exceeding the age of thirty yeers, and the Virgins fifteen, and both shall have their Virgini∣ties renewed, as fast, as lost.

They hold also this, as a confident Article of their Be∣liefe, there are seven Paradices in Heaven, the pave∣ments whereof are laid with gold, silver, pearles, pre∣cious stones, and garnished with stately buildings, and pleasant Gardens, wherein are all sorts of fruit, and Princely Palaces; through the which run Rivers of Milk, Honey, and Wine.

The first Paradice, they call it Genete, Alcholde, the second Alfirduzy, the third Anthinak, the fourth Re∣duasch, the fift Azelem, the sixt Alcodush, that is holy, and the seventh Almega, that is, the greatest. And that in the midst of this last Paradise, there is a stately tree, called Tubah, the lease of which is partly of gold, and partly

of silver: whose boughs extend round about the wals of this seventh Paradice, whereon the name of Mahomet is written, neere to the name of God, in these words, Alla illa, he, all ah, Mahomet Rezul allah. The which words are in such reverence amongst the Turks, that if a Christian should happen, unadvisedly to repeat them, he is adjudged to a most cruell death, or compulsed to renounce his Christian Religion.

Their Lent lasteth 30 days, called Byrham, some name it also Ramadan; induring which time, they eat nor drink nothing from Sun rising to its setting downe: but when night commeth they gurmandize at their selfe pleasures: Their moneth of Lent is our Ianuary, where every day af∣ter their severall devotions, they go to solemne plays; and all kinde of prophane pastimes: counting that best devo∣tion, which is most sutable to their dispositions; allotting fancie to follow their folly, and blindnesse, to overtop the ignorance of Nature, drawing all their drifts with∣in the circle of destruction: But indeed, as they are blind, in the true way of sacred worship; yet are they masked with a wonderfull zeale to their devoted blindnesse; sur∣passing far in shew, and observations, the generall Profes∣sors of Christianity, and all the Ceremonies can be an∣nexed thereunto: Theirs running on with the flouds of ignorant affection, and ours distracted with the inutile novelties of superfluous School questions: which indeed doe more distemper the truth, than render God to be rightly glorified.

As concerning their opinion of Hell, they hold it to be a deepe Gulfe, betwixt two Mountains: from the mouth whereof are Dr••gons, that continually throw fire, being large eight leagues, and hath a darke entry, where the horrible Fiends meet the perplexed sinners, conveying

them till they come to a Bridge, that is so narrow as the edge of a Razor: whereupon these who have not com∣mitted hainous offences, may passe over to Hell, but those who have done Buggery (as the most part of them do) and homicide shall fall headlong from it, to the profoundest pit in Hell, where they shall somtimes burne in fire and somtimes be cast into hot boyling waters to be refreshed. And for the greater punishment of the wicked (say they) God hath planted a Tree in Hell named Sajaratash, or Roozo Saytanah, that is, the head of the Devill, upon the fruit of which, the damned continually feed: Mahomet in one of the Chapters of his Alcoran, calleth this Tree, the Tree of Malediction.

They also thinke the tormented soules may one day be saved, providing they doe indure the scorching flames of Hell patiently. Thus, as briefly as I could, have I laid open the opinions of the Turkes, concerning their Heaven and Hell, before the eyes of these, who peradventure have ne∣ver been acquainted with such a ghostly Discourse.

And now I think it not amisse to reckon you up in ge∣nerall all the Roman and Greek Emperors, that have been from the beginning to this present time, both in the East, and in the West, with the number of the Turkish Em∣perours also: Beginning now at Iulius Caesar, the first Di∣ctatour or Roman Emperour, to Constantine the Great, who transported the seat of the Empire from Rome to Constantinople, hee was the three score and fourth Empe∣rour: And from Constantine the Great in the East, to the first made Emperour in the West, there were thirty nine Emperours: of whom Constantine the sixth, sonne to Leo the third, with Irena his wife was the last sole Emperour, and shee Empresse of East and West: After whose death and overthrow, Charlemaine was called into Italy to

Danton the Lombards, who had oppressed that Region, and the peace of the Church for two hundred yeares: He chased them from Rome, Apulia, and from all Italy, and was therefore declared by Pope Leo, the Roman Empe∣rour of the West: from Charlemain to this present Ferdi∣nando that now reigneth, Charlemaine being the hundred and fourth, there were forty and one Emperours: So in all, with this Emperor Ferdinando lately Duke of Grasse, the number amounts to of these Emperours, counting from Iulius Caesar to Constantine the sixt, the last sole Empe∣rour of the East, and after him, from Charlemain the first Emperour of the West, to this time, their number have been a hundred and forty six Emperours.

Some whereof were Greekes, which cannot perfectly be set down, in regard some were Emperesses, and others suddenly elected, were as suddenly murthered or poyso∣ned.

Now to reckon the Turkish Emperours, I will first begin from the time that the Turks tooke a Monarchall name, under the name of Ottoman, even to Mahomet the Second, the first Grecian Emperour, beginning, I say at Ottoman, the son of Orthogule the first Emperour of the Turks, and the first that erected the glory of his Nation; there were nine Emperours to Mahomet the Second: And from him to this present Amurath, that now reigneth, there have bin eleven Emperors: The number of which are onely twenty, and before they come to thirty, they and theirs, I hope, shall be rooted from the earth.

The Originall of the Turkes, is said to have been in Scythia, from whence they came to Arabia p••tnea, and giving battell oft to the Sarazens, in the end subdued them, and so they multiplyed, and mightily increased: the apparance of their further increasing, is very evident,

except God of his mercy towards us prevent their blood-sucking threatnings, with the vengeance of his just judge∣ments.

The Sarazens are descended of Esau, who after he had lost the blessing, went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea; and his posterity, striving to make a cleere distinction be∣tweene them, the Ismaelites, and Iewes, called themselves (as come of Sara) Sarazens; and not of Hagar, the hand∣maid of Abraham, of whom came the Ismaelites, neither of the race of Iacob, of whom came the Iewes. But now the Sarazens being joyned with the Turkes, their Con∣querours, have both lost their name, and the right of their discent.

The Turkes which are borne and bred in the lesser Asia, and East-parts of Europe, are generally well complexio∣ned, proportionably compacted, no idle nor superfluous talkers, servile to their grand Signior, excessively inclined to Venery, and zealous in Religion: their heads are al∣wayes shaven, reserving onely one tuft in the top above, by which they thinke one day to be caught to Heaven by Mahomet, and covered on all sides, counting it an oppro∣brious thing to see any uncover his head; they weare their beards long, as a signe of gravity, for they esteeme them to be wise men who have long beards: The women are of a low stature, thick and round of growth, going seldome abroad, unlesse it be each thursday at night, when they go to mourn upon the graves of their dead friends, and then they are modestly masked: they are fearefull and shame∣fac'd abroad, but lascivious within doors, and pleasing in matters of incontinency; and they are accoun••ed most beautifull who have the blackest browes, the widest mouths, and the greatest eyes.

The other Turkes which are borne in Asia Major,

and Aegypt (I speake not of the Moores of Barbary) are of a great stature, tauny, cruell, a barbarous and uncivill people. The better sort use the Salavonian tongue, the vul∣gar speake the Turkish language, which being originally the Tartarian speech, they borrow from the Persian their words of state, from the Arabicke, their words of Religi∣on, from the Grecians their termes of warre, and from the Italian their words and titles of navigation.

The puissance of the great Turke is admirable, yet the most part of his Kingdomes in Asia, are not well inha∣bited, neither populous, but these parts which border with Christians, are strongly fortified with Castles, peo∣ple, and munition: If Christian Princes could concord, and consult together, it were an easie thing in one yeare to subdue the Turkes, and root out their very names from the earth; yea moreover I am certified, that there are more Christians even slaves and subjects to the great Turke, which do inhabit his dominions, then might over∣throw and conquer these Infidells, if they had worthy Captaines, Governours and furniture of Armes, without the helpe of any Christian Prince of Christendome.

And yet again, I think it not amisse to discourse more particularly of the Turkish manners, of their riches, and of their forces of warres, and the manner of their conducements.

The Turkes being naturally discended of the Scythians of Tartars, are of the second stature of man, and robust of nature, circumspect and couragious in all their at∣tempts, and no way given to industry or labour, but are wonderfull avaritious and covetous of money a∣bove all the nations of the World. They never observe their promises; unlesse it be with advantage, and are naturally prone to deceive strangers; changing their con∣ditionall

bargains, as time giveth occasion to their liking; They are humble one to another, but especially to their superiours, before whom they doe not onely great ho∣mage, but also keepe great silence, and are wonderfull coy during the time of their presence: They are extream∣ly inclined to all sorts of lascivious luxury; and gene∣rally addicted, besides all their sensuall and incestuous lusts, unto Sodomy, which they account as a daynty to di∣gest all their other libidinous pleasures. They hold that every one hath the houre of his death wrot on his fore brow, and that none can escape, the good or evill houre predestinated for them: This ridiculous errour makes them so bold and desperate, yea, and often, to runne headlong in the most inevitable dangers: They are not much given to domesticke pastimes, as Chesse, Cards, Dice, and Tables; but abroad and in travell they are exceeding kind disposers of their meate and drinke to any stranger without exception: The better sort of their women, are sumptuously attired, and adorned with pearles and precious stones, and some of them are accu∣stomed to turn their hands and hair into a red colour, but especially the nayls of their hands and feet; and are wont to go to bathe themselves in Stoves twice a week, as well as men.

The true Turks weare on their heads white Turbants, save a few that are esteem'd to be of Mahomet••s Kindred, and they weare greene Shashes, being most part of them Priests: the better part of the Turkes in Asia, care not for fish, but these Turks which remayne in Europe love Fish better then Flesh, especially at Constantinople or Stambolda, where the best Fishes and most abundance of them are taken that be in the World, and that in the blacke Sea: They are ever desirous to seeke advantage

on their neighbours, which if they cannot by force, they will under colour of truce, accomplish it with perfidious∣nesse. And if their enterprises, find no happy event, they are never a whit ashamed to take the flight, yet are they generally good Souldiers, and well taught in Martiall discipline: Their Armies in marching, or camping (not∣withstanding infinite multitudes) keepe modesty and silence, and are extreamly obedient unto their Captaines and Commanders: When the great Signior is abroad with his Army at Warres, the Turkes at home within Townes, use great praiers and fasting for him and them. They ingeniously describe the victories of their Ance∣stors, and joyfully sing them in Rimes and Songs; thin∣king thereby that fashion in recalling the valiant deedes of their Predecessours, to be the onely meanes to encou∣rage their souldiers to be hardy, resolute and desperate in all their enterprises: They are not given to contempla∣tion, nor study of Letters or Arts; yet they have divers faire Schooles, where the publicke Lecture of their legall Lawes are professed, and Mahometanisme; to the intent that Children, being elected to be brought up there for a time may be instructed, to be profitable expounders of their Alcoran, and judicious Judges for the govern∣ment of the Common-wealth: It is ••eldome, and rarely seene, that a Turke will speake with a woman in the streets; nay, not so much as in their Mosquees one to be in sight of another; and yet they are Lords and Masters of their Wives and Concubines, from whom they re∣ceive as great respect, service, and honour, as from their bond and bought slaves.

Now as concerning his riches, the chiefest three parts of Commerce of all kind of merchandise, and abounding in silver and gold in all the Turkes dominions, as well in

Asia, and Affrick, as Europe, are these Constantinople in Thracia of Europe: Aleppo in Syria of Asia major; and Grand Cairo in Aegypt of Affrick: for these are the three Magezines of the whole Empire, that draw the whole riches, money, and trafficke to them of all the Imperiall Provinces: It is thought that ordinarily and annually the Rent of the great Turke amounteth to sixteen Millions of Gold, notwithstanding that some do make it lesser: But because it is so hard to judge of any Monarchs Rents; be∣ing like the infinite concavities of the earth, sending, and receiving so innumerable wayes their streames of riches, I'le desist from any other instances: And yet the great Turks revenues, are no way answerable to his great and large Dominions: The causes arising hereupon are many, of whom I will select three or foure of the chiefest rea∣sons: First the Turkes being more given to armes, to con∣quer, to destroy and ruine, and to consume the wealth of the people they overcome, leaving them destitute, of nu∣riture; rather then any way to give course for their encrea∣sing and stablishing of trafficke, out of which should flow the Royall advantages. And the reason why they keepe their subjects poore, and frustrate themselves of great pro∣fits; is onely to weaken, and enfeeble them, whereby they should not have wherewith to move insurrection or re∣bellion against them. And on the other part, the Greeks are as unwiling to be industrious in Arts, Trafficke or Culti∣vage; seeing what they possesse is not their owne, but is taken from them at all occasions, with tyranny & oppres∣sion. For what gaines the sower, if another reape the pro∣fit? So in the Ottomans estate, there be great Forrests, and desartuous Countries; proceeding of the scarcity of peo∣ple to inhabit there, the multitudes being drawn from A∣sia, to strengthen the frontiers of his dominions in Europe.

And besides there is another reason of the dispopulo∣sity of these parts▪ to wit, when the Great Turkes Army is to march to a farre Country to make warres, then must their vulgar subdued peasants, perhaps twenty or thirty thousands go along with them, to carry their victu∣als, and all manner of provision, being taken from the plough, are constrained to this servitude, and notwith∣standing the halfe of them never returne againe: Partly, because of the change of food, and aire, and partly be∣cause of their long travels and insupportable service, both in heate and cold: And to these of the first reason, there is an other perpendicular cause; to wit, that the whole commerce of all commodiites in Turkey, is in the hands of Iewes and Christians, to wit, Ragusans, Venetians, Eng∣lish, French, and Flemmings, who so warily manage their businesse, that they enjoy the most profits of any trading there, dissappointing the Turkes owne subiects of their due, and ordinary trafficke.

The last and most principall reason is, which is a great deale of more importance than his Revenues; to wit, the great number of his Timars: for the Turkish Emperours, being immediate Maisters of the lands they ouercome, they divide the same in Timars or commandements: lea∣ving little or nothing at all to the ancient Inhabitants; they dispose upon these proportions, to valorous Souldi∣ers, that have done good service: And with this condi∣tion, that they maintaine, and have alwayes in readinesse Horses for the warres: which is an excellent good order for the preservation of his Empire; for if these Timariots were not rewarded, with such absolute possessions of par∣cell grounds, the state of his power would suddenly runne to ruine: for the profit of which lands, maintaining them∣selues, their horses and their families, maketh them the

more willing to concur in the infallible service of their Emperour: These Timars or grounds, entertain through all his Dominions, about two hundred and fifty thousand horses, that are ever in readinesse to march at the first ad∣vertisement, without any charge to the great Signior, be∣ing bound to maintaine themselues in during the warres: And yet these Timariots, and their horses cannot yearely be maintained under the value of ten Millions of Gold: The consideration whereof, makes me astonished, when I recall, the relation of some ragged Authors, who dare compare the great Turkes Revenues unto our petty Princes of Christendome.

This establishment of Timars, and the by past election of Azamglians, or young children to bee made Ianisaries haue been the two strong Foundations, that supported so inviolably the Turkes Empire. The Roman Emperours for a long time vsed the selfe same manner for the assu∣ring of their persons, and estate, in election of yong males to be their guard. They were called the Pretorian Army, and this taxation of children was the first thing that mo∣ved the Flemmings, to revolt against the Romanes.

As for the Turkish Cavalrie, they sustaine two impor∣tant effects, first they keepe under awe and subjection, the great Turks subiects who otherwise perhaps wold teuolt: And next they are ordained for any dependant interprise for field Garrisons, yea, and the principall finewes of the warres: and yet the election of the grand Signior, lieth most in the hands of the Ianizaries, who cannot perfect∣ly say hee is Emperour before they confirme him in his Throne.

The Turkes have three things in their Armies which are very fearefull, to wit, the infinite number of men, great Discipline, and force of Munition: And for Disci∣pline,

they are not onely gouerned with great silence, and obedience, but they are ruled also with signes of the eye, and being tractable, they are tied to main condusements: And although their multitudes have often bred confusion to them, so that little Armies have broke and overcome them; yet in their flight they are so cautulous, that a small number can do them no absolute violence nor finall over∣throw: for as they assail, so they flie without feare.

The first Residence of the Turkish Emperour after his comming from Aegypt, was at Priusa in Bythinia: thence it was transported to Andreanople, and then to Constan∣tinople, where it abideth to this day: Besides, all his great Bassaws in Europe, which are eight, one in Buda, in Hungary, another in Moldavia, the third in Dacia, the fourth at Bagaviliezza in Bosna, &c. He hath also in Affrick a Bassaw, in Algier, another in Tuneis, the third in Tripo∣lis, and the fourth in Aegypt, &c. And in Asia major, and minor, to wit, one in Aleppo of Syria, one in Damascus, another at Balsera, the fourth at Mecha in Arabia foelix, the fift in Carmania, the sixt in Cyprus, the seventh in the Rhodes, the eighth at Arzeron in Armenia major, the ninth and tenth at Teslis & Vpan, on the Frontiers of Gurgestan and Persia, &c. For Arsenals hee hath foure for Sea, to wit, one at Perah, or Galata, containing a hundred thirty and three Galleys: The second at Gallipoli of twenty Galleys: The third Arsenall is at Savezza upon the Red Sea, consi∣sting of twenty five Galleys: And the fourth is at Belsara in Arabia foelix, towards the Persian Gulfe, depending of fifteene Galleys, which are kept there to afflict the Por∣tugals, remaining in the Isle of Ormus; and other parts adjacent there.

The Turks have a custome, when they are Masters of any Province, to extermine all the native Nobilitie,

chiefly those of the blood Royall of the Country: And neverthelesse they permit to all and every one of theirs to live and follow his own Religion as hee pleaseth without violence or constraint.

Amongst the Turkes there is no Gentilitie, nor Nobi∣litie, but are all as ignoble and inferiour members, to one mayne body the Great Turke, lineally descending of the House of Ottoman: whose magnificence, puissance, and power is such, that the most eloquent tongue cannot sufficiently declare: His thousands of Ianizaries, Shouses, and others daily attending him: which are the nerves and sinews of the Warlike bodie of his whole Monarchy and Imperiall Estate: His hundreds (besides his Queene) of Concubines, hourely maintained by his means, and monethly renewed: His Armies, Bashawes, Emeeres, Vizier-bashawes, Sanzacks, Garrisons, and forces here and there dispersed amongst his Dominions, would be impossible for mee briefly to relate. The inhumane poli∣cie of the Turks to avoid civill dissention is such, that the seed of Ottoman (all except one of them) are strangled to death: Wherefore, as Augustus Caesar said of He∣rod in the like case, It is better to be the Great Turkes Dog, then his Sonne. His Daughters or Sisters are not so used, but are given in Marriage to any Bassa, whom so they affect; yet with this condition; the King saith to his Daughter, or Sister, I give thee this man to be thy slave; and if he offend thee in any case, or be dis∣obedient to thy will, here I give thee a Dagger to cut off his head; which always they weare by their sides for the same purpose.

The Persians differ much from the Turks, in nobilitie, humanitie, and activitie, and especially 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Re∣ligion: who by contention thinke each other accursed,

and notwithstanding both factions are under the Maho∣metanicall Law. Neither are the sons of the Persian Kings, so barbarously handled, as theirs; for all the brethren (one excepted) are onely made blinde, wanting their eyes, and are alwayes afterward gallantly maintained like Princes. And it hath oftentimes faln out, that some of these Kings, dying without procreate Heires; there have of these blind sons succeeded to the Empire, who have restored again the seed of that Royall Family.

And now▪ the great advantage, that the Turkes have daily upon the Persians, is onely because of their Infan∣tery, which the Persians no wayes are accustomed with, fighting alwayes on Horse-back: neither are the Persi∣ans adicted or given to build Forts, or Fortifications, nei∣ther have they any great use of Munition, but exposing themselves ever to the field in the extream hazard of bat∣tail, become ever doubtfull in their victories: whose cou∣rage and valour cannot be paraleld among all the people of the Eastern World, as Babylon in their late and last for∣tunes may give sufficient testimony thereof.

The fifth Part.

CLose bounded Hellespont, Earths Mother sport I leave: 'longst the Aeolid lists, I Smyrna court: Thence Samothrace, and Rhodos, I accoast, Which Lilidamus Viliers, manly lost: The Lycian bounds, and steep Pamphilian shoares I strictly view: The sea Carpathian roares, I land at Cyprus: Seline is the place, Whence I that Kingdome, to Nicosia trace:

From Famagust fair Asia, then I courted And Libanon; whence Cedars were transported For Sions Temple: And my toyls to crown I sight great Aleppe, Syriaes Lady Town: Then passing Mesopotame; Chelfanes land, I stay at Beershack, on Euphrates strand: Thence back by Damas, Arabia Petrea, Galilee, Samaria, mountainous Judea I toyling came: And at Jerusalem, I lodg'd neer Moriah, in a Cloystred frame.

THe Winter expired, and the Spring gone, time summoned me after three moneths repose, to imbrace the violence of a fiery fac'd season: where having dutifully taken my leave of many worthy friends, who both kindly, and respectively had used mee; especially, the aforesaid English Ambassa∣dour, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassadour, Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure, and had been formerly Consull in Aleppo five yeers.

I left Constantinople, and imbarked in a ship belonging to London, named the Allathya, whereof one Master Wylds in Ratcliffe was Master, where indeed both hee and his company kindly and respectively used mee, for the space of 12 days; being bound for Smyrna, and so wee sailed along the Coast of Bythinia in Asia minor.

Bythinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrygia, on the East Pontus: and on the South Capadceia, or Leuco Syria: The chiefe Cities are Chalcedon, where, by command of the Emperour Martianus, the fourth Generall Councell was assembled, to repell the Heresie of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount

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Stella, famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And where Tamberlane with 800000 Tartarians incountred Baiazet, whose Army consisted of 500000 men; of which 200000 lost their lives that day: And Bajazet being taken, was carried about in an Iron Cage, on whose necke Tamberlane used to set his foote, when he mounted on horse-backe; and at last beat out his owne braines against the barres of the Iron Cage: the the next Cities are Nicomedia, and Nyce, where the first Generall Councell was kept, Anno 314 to which there as∣sembled 318 Bishops to beate downe the Arian Heresie, The other Townes are Prusa and Labissa; the former was built by Prusias King of Bythinia, who betrayed Haniball when he fled to him for succour; in the latter Haniball lyeth buried. Prusa was along time the seat of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first began to keep his Residence at Andrianople: The chiefe Rivers are Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained the first victory against the Persians.

Having passed Bythinia, and the Phrygian coast, wee fetched up Cenchrea, where Saint Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed Acts 18. 18, Being a Towne now inhabited by Grekes, with a Turkish Governour, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring pla∣ces, that bereave them of their trafficke; and because the Iewes do not much frequent here, the Inhabitants are ra∣ther turned spectators to Vertue, than any way inherent to necessary goodnesse: want of Strangers being let, one and vitious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth by the sea side in the North part of Ionia but more truely on the East frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor on the South Ionia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the North-west Aeolus, & a part of Phrygia maior. The chief

Metropole is Sardis, once the royall seat of Croesus the richest King in his time, who in his ful prosperity was told by Solon, that no man could reck on upon felicity so long as he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which afterward he found true: The recitall of which advertisement, when he was taken Prisoner by Cy∣rus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus, where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Perga∣menum: here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundred and forty yeares: the reason whereof, hee thus affixeth, he never eate or drunke his full, & ever car∣ried some sweete perfumes with him. The other Townes are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.

Vpon the twelfth day after the departure from Con∣stantinople, we arrived at Smirna, being foure hundred miles distant.

This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned Revelation 2. 8. And standeth in Ionia: of this place was the famous Martyr Policarpus Bishop, who sometims had been Scholler to Iohn the Evangelist: and living till hee was of great age, was at last put to death for Christs sake. It is a goodly place, having a faire Haven for ships: They have great trafficke with all Nations; especially for fine Silke, Cotten-wooll, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Country Peasants, which strangers buy from them.

Truely, neare unto this City, I saw a long continuing Plaine, abounding in Cornes, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull Herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that me thought Na∣ture seemed with the peoples industry to contend, the one by propagating Creatures, the other by admirable a∣griculture.

That for Commodities and pleasure it is little inferi∣our unto the Valley of Suda, in Candy, which maketh the

inhabitants wondrous insolent: for as mirth is made of pleasure, and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so there is not a more incorrigible creature then man in pro∣sperity, nor so modest nor reformed an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a sparing and crooked favor, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can preferre us to true fe∣licitie: And would to God that these, upon whom none but faire winds have ever blowne, in the carreere of their supposed happinesse, could but see for all their high and over-topping places, their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrows of the Omnipotent arme, that are yet flying not at theirs, but his mark; and no more owners of their own proposed ends, then they are guiltie of their own beginnings: surely they would cover their fa∣ces with another kinde of maske then they do: and make their actions seeme more cleere, then the force of policie can obumbrate their wicked devices.

Thyatira now called Tyria, one also of the seven Chur∣ches, is not from Smyrna above eighteen miles.

From this City (having left my kinde English men and their stately Ship that carried 24 peeces of Ordnance,) I imbarked in a Turkish Carmosale, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for Rhodes. In our sayling along the C••ast of Ionia, the first place of any note I saw, was the ruinous Citie of Ephesus; yet somewhat inhabited with Greeks, Iews, and a few Turkes; but no ways an∣swerable to its former glory and magnificence, being ra∣ther a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency: neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire Fields, and green Woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yield a delectable prospect: It was one of the seven Churches. Revelat. 2. 1. This

was one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the fame thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse, furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven Worlds Wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure hundred twenty five foot long, and two hundred broad: It was seven severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with Lightning, and lastly, the finall de∣struction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus, who to purchase himselfe a name, did set it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof, Saint Paul di∣rected one of his Epistles, and finally, it is famous for the buriall of Saint Iohn the Evangelist▪ It was said of this place, in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole World did worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timaeus being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that night, when Alexander the Great was born: gave this jest thereof, that the Mistris of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olympias the mother of Alexander the Great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.

Over against this Citie is the Isle Lango, anciently called Coos, wherein the great Hyppocrates was borne, and Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous, and of circuit above fourescore miles. There is a kinde of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly un∣to the inhabitants, that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come crauling, and will linke or claspe themselves about their necks and bodies, with∣out doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.

And neere to Lango, is the Isle Nixa of old Strangoli;

and by some called Dionisa and Naxus, an Island both fruitfull and delightfull. As we sailed by the west part of the Isle, a Greekish passenger shewed mee the place, where (as he said) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Dar∣mille.

Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Isle Eph∣dosh, where the Turks told me, that all the Islanders were naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine men and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to faile in this, the Island will be redu∣ced againe to pay him yearly rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man, and two women swimming to us, more than a mile of way, carry∣ing with them (drye above the water) baskets of fruite to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay leaning, or as it were re∣sting themselves on the Sea, upon their one side, and sold so their fruits, keeping Complements and discourses with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, & a fresh gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Isle of Samothracia.

This Isle of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania, and now by the Turks Samandracho; a place of small note, considering the quantity of the Isle, & the few num∣ber of Inhabitants: their lives being answerable to their meanes; ignorance and servitude, two strong comman∣ders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull, than

they are debile in the debt of worthines; which the yong∣lings of understanding, and sucklings of far look'd to knowledge, can never be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednesse, which indeed more wish for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Island wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth in the Carpa••hian Sea, it was of old called Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certain fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos in the Greek tongue signifieth a Flowre: Not far from the City, and at the entry of the Haven, I saw the relicts of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, na∣med Colossus Rhodius, or the mighty Image of the Sun; which was made in honour thereof: from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Colossians. It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares: o∣thers have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, ta∣king the name Collossus of him, and it was thought wor∣thy to be one of the seven earthly Wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected in the Image of a man, being eighty Cubits high, and so big that the little finger of it was as big as an ordinary man: between whose legs, (it standing in the Harbours mouth, with a leg on each side of the entery) Ships were wont to passe under with taunt sails: When Mnavi Gene∣rall of Caliph Osman first united this Isle to the Mahometan Empire, and broke down the greatest part of this Statue▪ the brasse whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camels.

This Isle belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and

were then sirnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were cal∣led Knights of St. Iohn; who viriliously expulsed the Sa∣razens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from the divided Grecians: These Knights sorely in vested the Turkes for the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever good freinds to the Romans, in somuch that when all the other Mediterranean Islands revolted to Mythridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romans.

This Isle of Rhodes within the space of 25 yeares was three times mightily indangered by violent and extreame impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which be∣ginning in the Spring-time did continue to Summer, and in all this time, it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered under safegard of their dwelling: which was a miserable destruction, and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall De∣luge.

But true it is, as these Ominous judgments falling upon particular parts & parcels of people are justly executed; yet they serve for Caveats for all others in generall (sinne being the originall of all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the bestuse of the Creature.

The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who assisted them) were besie∣ged by an Army of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The

chiefe obstacle, and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute valour of the de∣fendants. But in end, the multitude over-mastring valour, and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their Munition, and being penurious of victualls, were con∣strained to render, upon the conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remayned a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spain gave them the barren Isle of Malta to inhabit: This Isle of Rhodes was lost by the Maltezes, Anno Domini 1522. And on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as con∣querour, though hee might justly have said (as Pyrrhus once said of his victory over the Romans) that such another victory would utterly have undone him; he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Soul∣diers. It is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The For∣tresse of Rhodes, and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest Holds, in all the Empire of the great Turke.

And by the way here I must record, that if the Great Turke, and his great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Ianizaries, and speedy rewarders of their com∣mon Souldiers; it were impossible for him the Empe∣rour, or them the Bassaws to manage so great a State, and to keep under obedience so head-strong a multitude, and such turbulent forces: for by your leave, if a Souldi∣ers industry be not quickned and animated with bounti∣full rewards; hee hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall service; then a dead Coarse hath power to arise out of the Grave: for what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountain and nurse of his vitall spirits, and the ground of his bodily substance; which no free or ingenious nature will hazard to lose for nothing.

And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these Commanders have ever best prospe∣red, which have most liberally maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers; otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale bet∣ter to have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.

Rhodes ioyneth near to the Continent, over against Ca∣ria, now called Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia, and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria to the North: The chiefe cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which ha∣ving great gates, being but a small Towne, made Dioge∣nes the Cynick crie out▪ Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne, who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares: Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who ayded Xerxes against the Grecians was by some Authors named Queene of Hallicarnasso. This was she, who in honour of her husband Mausoloa, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported with thirtie six admirable wrought pillars.

After I had contented the master for my fraught and victuals (who as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke of the Arches purposed to Cy∣prus, with the which I imbarked, being foure hundred miles distant.

This Tarterata, or Demigalleyeot, belongeth to the Isle of Stagiro, anciently Thasia, wherein there were Mines

of gold, in these times that afforded yeerly to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence: The chief Town whereof is Palmapreto, where divers Greekes hold the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea∣port, which is a common resting place for all the Orien∣tall Pirats, or Cursarces; which maketh the Isle half deso∣late of people; and these few scarce worthy of their dwel∣lings.

Having past the Gulfe of Sattelia, and the Isle Carpa∣thia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his Name: wee boarded close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull Pamphylia; the chiefe City of Lycia is Patras, watred with the River Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians of Ly••us, sonne to Pan∣dion: It lyeth twixt Caria and Pamphylia, as Pamphylia ly∣eth between it and Cilicia: The chief Town in Pamphylia is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successors: on the East of Lycia within land bordereth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphylia behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cilicia, sustaining many great dangers, both of tem∣pestuous storms, and invasions of damnable Pirats, who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow, or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.

Here in this Country of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now decayed Town of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistris of that Province, though neither for worth, nor wealth.

All ancient things by Time revolve in nought As if their Founders, had no founding wrought.

But tho•• torn Tharsus, brooks a glorious name, For that great Saint, who in thee had his frame: So may Cilicians joy, the Christian sort, That from their bounds, rose such a mighty Fort.

Twelve dayes was I between Rhodes and Limisso in Cy∣prus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstra∣tions from the Islanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being far beyond my merit or expectation; onely conten∣ting my curiosity with a quiet minde, I red ounded thanks for my imbraced courtesies.

The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility, hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated to strangers. The second day after my arri∣vall, I took with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nico∣sia, which is placed in the midst of the Kingdome. But in my journy thither, extream was the heat and thirst I endu∣red; both in respect of the season, and also want of water▪ And although I had with me sufficiencie of wine, yet durst I drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a taste of pitch; and that is, because they have no Barrels, but great Jars made of earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jars are all inclosed within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open like to a Source or Cistern; whose insides are all interlarded with pitch to preserve the earthen Vessels unbroke asunder, in regard of the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous lips; and turneth the Wine, too heady for the brain in digestion, which for health grow∣eth difficult to strangers; and to themselves a swallowing up of diseases.

To cherish life and blood, the health of Man, Give me a T••ast, plung'd in a double Kan,

And spic'd with Ginger: for the wrestling Grape Makes Man, become from Man, a sottish Ape.

Nicosia is the principall City of Cyprus, and is invironed with Mountains, like unto Florence in Aetruria; wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famogusta, the chief strength and Sea-port in it: Seli••a, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Towns in the Island.

This Isle of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Ama∣tusa, and by some Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West, 210, large 60, and of cir∣cuit 600 miles. It yieldeth infinite canes of Sugar, Cotton-wooll, Oile, Honey, Cornes, Turpentine, Allom, Verde∣greece, Grograms, store of Metals and Salt; besides all o∣ther sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horn: and lastly Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Island was consecrated to Venus, wherein Paphos shee was greatly honoured, ter∣med hence, Dea Cypri.

Festa dies Veneris tota celeberrima Cypro, Venerat, ipsa suis aderat Venus au re•• festis. Venus feast day, through Cyprus hallowed came, Whose feasts, her presence, dignified the same.

Cyprus lyeth in the Gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Aegypt to the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphylian Sea to the North: It hath foure chief Capes or Head-lands: first, Westward the Pro∣montory of Acanias, modernly Capo di santo Epifanio: to the South the Promontory Phae••ria, now Capo Bi∣anco: to the East Pedasia, modernly Capo di Graeco,

to the North the high foreland Cramenion, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest Promontores of the Island, and Cape di S. Andrea in the furthest point Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that an∣ciently it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cera••••a now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of this Isle: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plain of Massara, and thirty foure miles from Famogusta; and the Towne of Famogusta was for∣merly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundred and forty Villages, besides the sixe capi∣tall Towns, two whereof are nothing inferiour for great∣nesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy, Sycily, or Greece.

The chiefest and highest mountaines in this Isle, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros, and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is aboundance here of Coriander seede, with medicinable Rubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are also mines of Gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome, Iron, and excee∣ding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are divers precious stones found in this Isle, as Emeraulds, Diamonds, Christall, Corall, red and white, and the ad∣mirable stone Amiante, whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.

The greatest imperfection of this Isle, is scarcity of water, and too much plenty of scorching heat and fabu∣lous grounds. The inhabitants are very civill, courteous, and affable, and notwithstanding of their delicious and

delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy, of a Robust Nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes: It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Isle was all utterly abandoned of the Inha∣tants, and that because it did not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time, and to replant this Region againe, the chiefest Colonies came from Aegypt, Iudea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphylia, Thracia, and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares 1163, after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Chri∣stian King of Ierusalem had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited here; of whom sprung the greatest Race of the Cyprian Gentility; and so from them are descended the greatest Families of the Phoenician Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined; yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising from Con∣science of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.

The three Isles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchall Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: and semblable to other in fertilitie, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly and sassinous: yet for Oiles and Wines, she is the Mother of both the other: Sicily being for Grain and Silks the Empresse of all: and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both; onely Sicily being the most civill Isle, and nobly Gentilitate, the Cypriots indifferently good, and the Can∣diots the most ruvid of all.

The chiefe Rivers are Teneo, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer made a Kingdome, who after the Trojan War came and dwelt here: and afterward being divided

betweene nine pettie Princes, it was subdued by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Medes and Persians. After the subversion of which Empire, this Isle was given to the Ptolomies of Aegypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. The Dukes of Savoy were once Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected Kings to themselves of their owne generation: and so it continued, till the last King of Cy∣prus, Iames the Bastard (marrying with the Daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without chil∣dren, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the factious Nobility, too head-strong, to be bridled by a female authority, like a good child, resigned her Crown and Scepter to the Venetian Senate, Anno 1473. Where∣upon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway in their behalfe; paying onely as Tribute to the Aegyptian Sultans 40000 Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala had made Iohn of Cyprus his Tri∣butary.

It was under their Jurisdiction 120 yeares and more; till that the Turkes, whoever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians) took it in with a great Armado, Anno 1570, and so till this day by them is de∣tained. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods Word, and the Worlds great enemy, should maintain (without ea••e) that famous Kingdom, being but one thousand and ••ifty Turks in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who would, if they ••ad Armes, or assistance of any Christian Potentate, ea∣••ly subvert and abolish the Turkes, without any distur∣bance;

yea, and would render the whole Signiory there∣of to such a noble Actor. I do not see in that small judge∣ment, which by experience I have got, but the redemp∣tion of that Countrey where most facile; if that the gene∣rous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne compassion to relieve the miserable afflicted In∣habitants. In which worke hee should reape (question∣lesse) not onely an infinite treasure of Worldly commo∣dities, that followeth upon so great a conquest, but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. The which deliverance Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Islanders) with five Gallounes, and 5000 Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the fortresse of Famo∣gusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should hate entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.

But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an un∣happy Pilot of the Vice-admiral, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong Bay: which the Florentines conside∣ring, resolved to ••eturne, and keepethe sea, till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon the Turkes went presently to armes, & char∣ged the Inhabitants to come to defend that place: But a∣bout foure hundred Greekes in the westpart, at Paphus, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard for∣tunes, by a new change: but alas, they were preuented, & every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turks. this massacre was committed in the year 1607. Such alwayes are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be as stable as Mount

Sion, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse, one day God, in his all eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries, and in his just iudgments, recompence these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengance of his all-seeing Justice.

In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-••an, wee encountred by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge, pulled mee by the heels from the Mules backe, beating mee most pittifully, and left mee almost for dead. In this meanewhile my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greeks, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.

Here I remember betwene this Isle and Sydon that same Summer, there were five galleouns of the Duke of Florence, who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado confisting of 100 gallees, 14 galleots, and two Galleasses: The Admirall of which Ships did single 〈◊〉〈◊〉 her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their fly∣ing backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seized upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20 Gallies, who desperately adventured to tow her away against the wind and so escaped.

For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in ••anaging of Sea battells, neither are they expert Ma∣riners▪ nor experimented Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English, and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellows, who have taught the Turkes the art of navigation and especi∣ally the use of munition which they both cast to them, &

then become their chief Cannoneers; the Turks would be as weak and ignorant at Sea, as the silly Aethiopian is un∣expert in handling of Arms on the Land. For the private humour of discontented Cast-awayes is always an enemy to publick good, who from the society of true Believers, are driven to the servitude of Infidels, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they receive the double yoke of despair and condemnation. Whose terrour of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed souls in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour, ramverts most of them, either over in a tor∣ment of melancholy, otherwise in the extasie of madnes: which indeed is a torturing horrour, that is sooner felt then known; and cannot be avoided by the rudenesse of Nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.

From the Fort and Citie Famogusta, I imbarked in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly, being 88 miles distant, where I met with an English Ship called the Royall Ex∣change of London, lying there at Anchor in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great cheare, and grea••er carousing, they gave mee the thundring farewell of three peeces of Ordnance.

Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a mile from the Ma∣rine side, neer to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated, and removed in three sundry places: First, it was over∣whelmed with water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cur∣sares, and Pirates: Thirdly, it is like now to be over∣throwne with new made Mountaines of sand: There is no Haven by many miles neare unto it, but a dangerous Road, where often when Northerly windes blow, Ships are cast away.

The great Traffick which now is at this place, was for∣merly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more East∣ward; but by reason of the infectious aire, that corrupted the bloud of strangers, proceeding of two high Moun∣tains; who are supposed to be a part of Mount Caucasus, which with-hold the prospect of the Sunne from the In∣dwellers, more then three houres in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have knowne die in ••ne Ship, in a moneths time, twenty Mariners: for this cause the Christian Ships were glad to have their Commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholsome and con∣venient place.

The daily interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, be∣ing mindfull to visit Babylon: In this my expectation I took purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to goe see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes journey thither. As wee ascended upon the Mountaine, our igno∣rant Guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Labyrinth of dangers; insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rocks: two of our Asses fell over a banke, and broke their necks: And if it had not been for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us, in our wilesome wandring, we had been miserably lost: both in regard of Rocks, and heaps of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell down with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When wee arrived to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty foure of all, grow∣ing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deal taller, straighter, and greater, and the branches grow so straight, and interlocking as though they were kept by Art. And yet from the Root to the top they beare

no boughes, but grow straight upwards, like to a Palme-tree •• who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their circle spred tops do kisse or embrace the lower cloudes; making their grandure over-look the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchall Lions to wild beasts, they become the chiefe Champions of Forrests and Woods.

Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad with Forrests of Cedars yet now there are but onely these, and nine miles Westward thence, seven∣teene more. The nature of that tree is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Shepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about forty miles reaching from the West to the East: and continu∣ally, Summer and Winter reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. The Signior thereof is a Free-holder, by birth a Turke, and will not acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere or Prince of Sydon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his owne pari good, fled into Italy to the Duke of Florence: And notwith∣standing that the elder brother yeelded up Sydon, and be∣came a pardond subject to the great Turke: yet this the o∣ther brother would neuer yeeld nor surrender, himselfe, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The old Prince

his father after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour; with whom in my second Tr••••els, both at Ligorne and Messina in Sicilie, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, cau∣sed transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from Ierusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Ph••∣nicia, as I shall make more cleer afterwards.

The most part of the inhabited Villages are Christians, called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their own Patriarch. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack Tongue, save onely these people of Mount Lybanus; and in that language the Alco∣ran of Mahomet is written. The kinde Amaronite whom wee met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in descen∣ding from the Cedars: shewed us many Caves and Holes in Rocks, where Coliers, religious Syriens and Amaro∣nites abide: among••t these austere Cottages, I saw a faire Tombe all of one stone, being seventeen foot of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulchre of the valiant Iosh••ua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of Pro∣mise.

The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanical prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruit, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christi∣ans; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eat any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy flux, or else ingender some other pestilentious Fever, whereof they die.

The Patriarch did most kindly entertaine us at his house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villa∣ges,

who met us in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.

This Bishop or Patriarchs house, is ioyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rock, that serveth for three sides therof, the fore and fourth part being onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitat∣ly a great Torrent over the saffinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with ambiti∣on, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to dispose upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.

Long and large Mount, whose rich 〈◊〉〈◊〉 mantle, see! Affords three colours, to my wandring eye; The first are Corns, in their expectant view, Fair Barley, Rye, and Wheat; O hopefull hew! That quickneth the prest plough: and for to eat, It makes new toyle, begin again to sweat: The second sight are Wines, the best on earth, And most delicious, in their pleasant birth; They're Phisicall, and good t'expell all sorts: Of burning Fea••ers, in their violent torts Which Senators of Venice, drinke for health, There's nought so rare, but is attaind by wealth. The third is amiable, O verdure greene! For pastorage, the best that can be seene;

Drawn nigh the tops, where fire-worn Cedars grow, And here, or there, some cooling spots of snow: Whence Rills do spring and speedy Torrents fall To loose scorch'd flowres, that burning heat would thrall: Here Herds frequent, whose pleasant toyls do rest Of Mountains all, on Liban, onely best: Where piping Pan, and Silvan do accord, To lurk with Ceres, and make Bacchus Lord; Pitch'd under silent shades; whence Eden Town These bounds for Paradice dare firmly crown: And last, to count these colours; here's delight, The fields are green, Wines yellow, Corns as white.

About the Village of Eden, is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the varietie of these things, maketh the silly people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance, they approve the apprehension of such a si∣nistrous opinion with these arguments, that Mount Li∣banus is sequestra•••• ••••om the circumjacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in Rocks; and that Eden was still re-edified by the fugitive Inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the Deluge it was so nominate, and after the Flood it was repaired again by Iaphet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Ioppa, or Iaphta in Palestina. Loe, there are the reasons they shew strangers for such like in∣formations.

There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly Paradice; The one is by the Turks, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to beat Damascus, for the beauty of fair fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there; especially for the Tree called Mouflee, which they be∣lieve

hath grown there since the beginning of the World. Indeed it is a rare and singular Tree, for I saw it at Damas∣cus, and others also of the same kinde, upon Nylus in Ae∣gypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it is cut downe hard by the root, and in five moneths the Tree buddeth up a pace again, bringing forth leaves, flowres and fruit. The leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a football, which is yeerly transported for Constantinople to the Great Turke; and there is reserved for a Relict of the fruit of the forbid∣den Tree: whence he surstiles himself keeper of the earth∣ly Paradice.

But if he were not surer a greater Commander and Re∣server of a large part, of the best bosome of the earth, than he is Keeper of that Adamian Garden; his stiles of the Earth, and mine of the World, were both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked creatures li∣ving amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to be kept or seen, certainly I would wish to be a Postillion, to the great Porter, the Turk, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.

The third place by these Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabit: I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered mee, they re∣ceived it from time to time, by the tradition of their An∣cestors: And because of the River Euphrates, and other Rivers mentioned in the Scriptu••es, which to this day, detain their names in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all the Earth. But contrariwise, it manifestly appeareth by the second

Chapter of Genesis 2. 20. that this Garden, which we call Paradice, wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a cer∣tain place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Country, called Eden, which boundeth on the River E••∣phrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or travelling, because this River hath been oft divided in sundry streams: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon, did turn the main channell of Euphrates to ano∣ther course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my self, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sins and fall of man, did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the Earth.

Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that Mountains, Islands, and Countries, have received great alteration by the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bythinia, Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sycilia, from Italie: The Isles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Islands, and Countries cut through so in divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high mysteries (apper∣taining only to the Creator) the more hee shall faile in his purpose, offend God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his pains.

But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a ••aravan of T••••kes to Aleppo, being ten days journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called T••rcomanni, living in Tents, and following their flocks

to whom I payed sundry Caffars who remove their wo∣men, children, and cattle where so they finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainly demonstrate the necessitie they had to live, ra∣ther then any pleasure they had, or could have in their li∣ving.

They differ also in Religion from all the other Maho∣metans in two damnable points: The one is, they acknow∣ledge, that there is a God, and that hee of himselfe is so gracious, that hee neither can, being essentially good doe harm, nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and there∣fore more to beloved than feared: The other is, they con∣fesse there is a Devill, and that hee is a Tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first-born child to him: soliciting his devillishnesse, not to torment them too sore when they shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they think afterwards by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall go from Hell to Paradice.

In this immediate or aforesaid passage, wee coasted neere and within six miles of the limits of Antiochia, one of the ancient Patriarch Seas; so called of Antiochus her first Founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of Iesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (notwithstanding) of their grie∣vous afflictions flourished, so that in 40 yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies; who suggested by the Devill cruelly affected them with ten generall Persecutions, un∣der the Emperours, Nero, anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96. Trajanus, 100. Maximinus, 137. Marcus Antonius 167. Severus 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aure∣li

anus, 278. and Dioclesian, anno 293 yeares. Notwith∣standing all which Massacres and Martyrdome, yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martyrum semen Ecclesiae est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole World.

Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in my brest: The Venetian Consul, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended Voyage) informed me, that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the Desarts, and willed 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to hire a Ia∣nizary, ••and three Souldiers to over-high them; whose counsell I received, but was meerly frustrated of my designes. True it was, they stayed, but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place.

The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but six small or short days journey, the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Ianizary, made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull prose cannot perform.

The doubts and drifts, of the voluble mind That here and there do flee, turn judgement blind: Did over-whelme my heart, in grim despaire, Whilst hope and reason fled, stay'd tim'nous care: And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside: Still this, still that I would! all I surmise Is shrewdly stopt: At last my scopes devise.

To make a Boat, to bear me down alone With Drudges two, to ground-chang'd Babylon: That could not be, the charges was too great, And eke the stream, did nought but dangers threat: My conduct still deceiv'd me, made it square Another Caravan, O! would come there From Aleppo, or Damascus: till in end Most of my moneys did his knavery spend: Thus was I tost long five weeks, and four days With strugling doubts: O strange were these delays! At last a Chelfain came, a Christian kind Who by my grief soon understood my mind; And told me flat, the Janizaries drift Was to extort me with a lingring shift. Come, come, said he, the Sanzack here is just, Let us complain, for now complain you must: He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv'd, And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swerv'd: He's call'd, and soon convinc'd, and with command Forc'd to transport me back to Syria's land: I'me there arriv'd, and eft-soons made me bound For the Venetian Consul: there to sound My great abuses, by this Villain done. Which soon were heard, and eke repayr'd as soon: The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake He did me more, then conscience will'd me take. My plaint preferd, he was in Prison laid And all my gold, to give me back was made Which he had falsly tane: where for his pains He had the losse, and I receiv'd the gains: For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more, I got my vantage, from his craft before:

And for his ten weeks fees, no more he had Than ••e, thats owner of a ditch-faln jade: Thus leaving him, I with the Consul bode, Full forty days, ere I went thence abroad.

In the eleven days journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopo∣tamia, and Chelfaine, a Province of the same, joyning with Tygris and Euphrates, and returning the same way again; I found nothing worthy of remarking save the fer∣tility of the soile: which indeed in Mesopotamia, yieldeth two crops of wheat in the year, and for a Bushell sowing, in divers places, they recoyle a hundred again.

The Country it selfe is overclad with infinite Villages, having no eminent Town of any note or consequence, ex∣cept the City of Cara••••men the se••t of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him 14 Sanzacks, and 26000 Tima∣riots. The people here are for the most part believers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward and ignorant Christi∣ans: And yet though without learning, or great under∣standing therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their pro∣fession, and great sufferers for it also.

This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate on Euphratess standeth in the Chel••aines Country, and is sup∣posed to have been Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Iacob kept Labans sheep, though some interpret all Mesopotamia then to have beene called Padan-aram: from whence North-east, and not far hence are the demo∣lished fragments of Nineveh on Tygris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine: The decays whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heaps of Iericho, the detriments of Thebes, the re∣licts

of Tyrus or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy. This Country of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set, though now impossible to be found out.

Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordered with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath been so oft chan∣ged by Turks, that the true antiquitie of it, can hardly be known: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of Merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spi∣ces, that are brought over land from Goa, and other pla∣ces in India, which draweth a concurrance of all Nations to it.

Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the Great Turke, by the Great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeere before my comming hither, hee had revolted against his Empe∣rour, and fighting, the Bassaws of Damascus, and Carahe∣men, overcame them: The yeare following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse, and two Ianizaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia: The Messengers make haste after him, but in their journey they met him comming back to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe hundred Horsmen. Upon the high way they delive∣red their message, where hee stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achm••t was, that if hee would acknow∣ledge his Rebellion, and for that Treason committed send him his Head, his eldest Son should both inherit his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would

come with great forces in all expedition, and in his pro∣per person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that hee was not able to resist the invincible Army of his Master, and his owne presence, hee dismounted from his Horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and neerest friends: where hee, and they concluded, it was best for him to die, being an old man, to save his Race undestroyed, and to keepe his son in his authoritie and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate down upon his knees, where the Showse strook off his head, putting it in a Box, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corps were carried to Aleppo and honorably buried, for I was an eye witnesse to that Funeral Feast: And immediatly, therafter, the Showse by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne in his Fathers Lands, Offices, Bassaw∣ship, and the authoritie of all the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey; for this Bas∣saw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and pow∣er of all the other Bassaws in the Turkes Dominions; ex∣cept the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the for∣mer in Hereditary power, farre exceedeth the other; be∣ing a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene San∣zacks, and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Ianizaries, and other inferiour Souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2 Samuel 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milk, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here after an incredible manner, who will

flie betwene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in the time of hasty and needfull intend∣ments; their education to this tractable expedition is ad∣mirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christen∣dome.

Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phaenicia: in the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Countrey with Persia, and other adjacent Pro∣vinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath fuffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romans, Aegyp∣tians, lastly by the Turkes, and daily molested by the in∣cursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of me desired aimes) I pretended to visite Ierusalem in my back-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan of Arme∣nians, and Turks that were well guarded with Ianisa∣ries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Da∣mascus by the way, and some mindful to the furthest marke. And for my better safeguard (being always alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Con∣sull tooke surety of the Captaine that hee should protect mee safely from theeves, cut throats, and the exactions of

tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hand of the Padre Guardiano at Ierusalem: Which being done, I I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my victuals, and so set forward with them. The number of our company were about 600 Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes, men and women: 600 Turkes trafficking for their owne bu∣sinesse, and 100 souldiers three Showsses, and sixe ••ani∣zaries, to keep them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, wee had nine dayes journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had bin builded for the support of Travellers; and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then mid∣way, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with Rocky Mountaines, and some∣times in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another in great heapes; in danger to be smothered; yea; and of∣tentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our couducting Turkes. In this iourneying I remember the Turke who ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting the Italian Proverb.

Chi nri fa••iglior, che non cisuole, Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.

He that doth better now, to me than he was wont, He hath deceiv'd, or will deceive me with some sad affront.

But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and flat∣tery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound there of upon him: Which he and his fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had been a pound of gold, for they are excessively addict∣ted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their fa∣vour, over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use: for in these dayes I took none at all; though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joyned in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receiving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoak is exceeding cold in their swallowing throats.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selues, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stiffed with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their usage being such that when they come from the horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them, when they repose, dine, and sup. So doe also their Artizans and all the Turkes in the World sit all wayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing the com∣mondable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lye on, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on, but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from the floore spred over with

a Carpet; whereon they usually sitting eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans, be na∣med Turks, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore they call themselves Musilmans, to wit, good believers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but certainly for firm believers they are wonder∣full constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever pro∣fession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evils, yet he remayneth alwayes fidele to all the usur∣pations, the Hispanicall Crown can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they go to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seen hundreds of them after this man∣ner, lie ranked like durty Swine, in a beastly stie, or loth∣some Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behinde us on the Mountains) we entred in a pleasant Plain of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, wee were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for our selves, and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever, that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advan∣tage to weary and extorted Travellers.

Damas••us is the capitall Citie of Syria, called by the Turks, Shamma, and is situated on a fair Plain, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abderah) excellent Orchards, and all other

naturall objects of elegancie: That for situation, Artizans, all manner of commodities, and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralleled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Gar∣rison of Turks lve continually keeping that Tree Mouflee, whereon they alleage the forbidden Apple grew, where∣with the Serpent deceived Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled, keeper of the ter∣restrial Paradice.

Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well wal∣led, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in the Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars, or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grena∣diers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there is a Moskie, called Gemmah, wherein (my Guide shewed me) the Sepulcher of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hallow Cellar under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul down through the wall in a basket: In the street where they ••ell their Vi∣ano, my Interpreter shewed me a great Gate of fine met∣tall,

which he said was one of the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tarta∣rians, who conquered Ierusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeed a relicke of wonderfull bignesse: And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as Beere, or Wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautifull place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the City of Antwerpe. The onely best Shables, or short crooked Swords, that be in the World are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Ar∣rows, and Baluckoes of Steele, that Horsmen carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they used to braine or knock down their Enemies in the field. The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having un∣der his authority (as hee is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks, and they conducting under all the afore∣said three, forty thousand Timariots, or Horsmen, besides two thousand Ianizaries, which are the Guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the City. His Beglerbegship ex∣tendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes, Foelix and Petrea, Phoenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Iudea, Ierusalem, Idumea, and all the Northern parts of Arabia Deseriuosa, even to the Frontiers of Aegypt.

The means of the preservation of so great a State, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force

of those Timariots who as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time of tranquility, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well formed manner of living but are continuall spoi∣lers of these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mis∣chiefe daily increaseth rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: So that every one of these Savages, ac∣cording to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly and cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of huma∣nity, more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind to gether, doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affrick, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots, which defend the frontiers of Aegypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes at Damascus (save onely o••r Ianizaries and Souldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence, travelling in the way to Ierusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere de∣monstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed stood gazing, asking my Trench man, what news? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christians should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

More like some relict, of exstirp'd decay, Than for a monument, reard for the way.

To blaze on Pauls conversion: yet it's true The worke was done, even by the Christian Iew, Or Iacobine; a circumcised kind, Who beare to frankes a most respective mind.

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilee, which is the beginning of Canaan: two of which three, we encountred with marishes and quag∣mires, being a great hinderance to us: This barren, and marish Countrie, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point between Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre more than Iordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Countrey it selfe, de∣valling even downe to the limits of Iacobs bridge, cut∣teth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plains.

Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way; for as we travelled in the night there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, & our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood-Karnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, be∣cause it is so rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was anciently divided into regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whither Moses fled to, and kept sheep, and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.

Divers of the Petrean Arabs, converse and dwell amongst the Turks; whom we tearm in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia Foelix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitfull and plea∣sant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsome, Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearls, especially about Medina, the second City to Meccha: The other Towns of note are Ho∣ran, the chiefe Port of the South Ocean. And Alteroch, the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Country.

Truly with much difficulty and greater danger passed we these Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qua∣lity, and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when wee came to any dangerous place, give the wat••h-word of S. Ioanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speak or whisper after that war∣ning under the pain of a Harquebusado. And no more wee durst, unlesse hee had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe (when occasion served) of liberty, lest by our tumul∣tuous noise in the night, our enemies should have the fore∣knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, with∣out some severe punishment. Himself rode still in the Van∣gard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Ianizaries and forty Souldiers, and the other foure Ianizaries, and sixtie Souldiers, were appointed to be the backgard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolencie, but with pru∣dent and magnanimous virility: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over mee, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his

wel-deserving minde: yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours; and notwith∣standing, of this high conceived regard, yet in some fri∣volous things, and for a small trifle, he privatly wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposi∣tion, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too for∣ward too seek a redresse. For often times an inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers to∣ward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show, must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like were rather employed, as their employments re∣warded, and therefore in unlawfull things they must suck the honey of their owne preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my Tributes, by the way for my head, he caused mee oft to pay, more then reason, to the Moores, Turks, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly back from them the overplus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be before seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant hee cannot be contented, unlesse hee seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull meanes to purchase him∣selfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made mee oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially, remembring my selfe to be under his protection, I al∣ways endevoured my aymes so, that in his sight I wonne extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in danger, or se∣curitie,

he would euer have me neere by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then ever to respect the benevolence of his his affection, and to suppresse my own weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, we entred in Galilee pas∣sing along a faire Bridge that is over the River Iordain, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Iacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where Iacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Iacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Iordain is scarcely known by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome whereof in the owne place, I shall more simply discourse: between Iacobs Bridge and Ierusalem, we had sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tri∣butes I payd by the way for my head, that at sundry places a••d into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage twel••e Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrime; the admiration one∣ly resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.

Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computa∣tion of the Roman Callender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Gallilee, a Province of Cana∣an; this Country was first called Canaan from Canan

the sonne of Cham: secondly, the Land of Promise, because it was promised by the Lord to Abraham, and his seed to possesse: Thirdly, the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so cal∣led from Iacob, who was sirnamed Israel: Fourthly, Iu∣dea, from the Iews, or the people of the Tribe of Iudah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the Philistims. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy Land, because here∣in was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the work of our salvation. It is in length 180, and in breadth 60 miles: yet of that salubrity of aire and fertility of soile flowing with Milke and Honey that before the comming of the Israelites it maintained thirty Kings, with their people, and afterward the two potent King∣domes of Israel and Iudah; in which David numbred one million and three hundred thousand fighting men, besides them of the Tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most cer∣tain, that by the goodnesse of the climate and soile, espe∣cially by the blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull Land in the World: But by experience, I finde now the contrary, and the fruitfulnesse thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with the Iews, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither are the grea∣test part of these Eastern Countries so fertile, as they have been in former ages, the earth as it were growing old, see∣meth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Pla∣nets, and Stars, are become neither so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have been: Time from old antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation, making the strong things weak, and weake things feeble, at last it re∣turneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolu∣tion to come by the day of judgement.

As things that are, still vanish from our eye, So things that were, again shall never be: The whirlwinde of Time, still so speedy posts, That like it selfe, all things therein it tosts.

The Iews are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of Abrahams Progenitors, or Hebrae quasi A∣brahaei: who at their descent into Egypt, were but seven∣ty soules being the issue of Iacob, and his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriachy, continned in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare of the World, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here: which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisites, and Iebusites. Canaan is di∣vided into five Provinces, viz. Iudea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phoenicia: Some divide it only in three, Pa∣lestina, Iudea, and Galilee: It hath been by others also no∣minated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation, they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Aegypt under that name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certaine, that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five particular Provinces: Galilee and Palestina, for the present, are the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee, which in some parts, yieldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance of Silke; Cotton-wooll, delicate Wines, Honey, Oile, and Fruits of all kinds; I hold it never a whit more de∣cayed now, than at any time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This Province of Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twentie five broad, having Phoenicia to the North: Samaria to the West: Iordan to the South: and

to the East and North-East, a part or point of Arabia Pe∣trosa, and the South-West of Libanus.

After we had travelled a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth, which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the north-side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night: in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night when wee slept, the Souldiers kept C••ntinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept, and we watched.

This Cana was the town vvherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants being partly Arabs, partly Iewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circum∣jacent fieldes, being both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.

The day following, imbracing our way, we passed o∣ver a little pleasant Mountain, where the Armenian Pa∣triarke (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes thronged a∣bout him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as they said) Where Christ fed five thousand people, with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, shewing as yet some beautifull decorements, doe dignify both the Monument, and the Memory of the Founder thereof.

Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our

left hand, which is a pretty round Mountaine, beset a∣bout with comely trees: I would gladly have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of Christ was: but the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the great way of Ierusalem, and would by no per∣swasion go thither,

That night we lodged in a poore Village called Heer∣schek, where we could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for our Beasts, but some of our Compa∣ny for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no means they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately throw∣ing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by Caesarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being for ruines a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia; it was built by Phillip one of the Tetrachs in honour of Tiberius Cae∣sar, and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the Angell, and eaten of worms, after the Sycophanticall people called his Rethoricall oration; the voice of God and not of man. Here our Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death to life the daughter of Iairus: Here Saint Peter baptized Cornelius, and S. Paul disputed against Tertul••us in the prese••ce of Felix.

Aprill the 20 day, about ten of the clocke (passing the River Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there re∣posed till the evening, providing our selves of victuals

and water: In this Towne dwelt Ioseph, and the Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up un∣der the vigilant care of Ioseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heap of stones, the ruines of an old House before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God: And that rui∣nous lumpe (say they) was the House where Mary dwelt, when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to the World: I am fully perswaded, they car∣ried away above five thousand pounds weight, to keepe in a memoriall thereof: then did I remember of the Chap∣pell of Loretta, and told the Caravan, that I saw that House standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians can∣not believe that, neither many other assertions of the Ro∣man Church; for wee certainly know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelt here ever since, that this is, both the place, and stones of the House: Let Papists coine a new Law to themselves, wee care not, for as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerly the Tra∣ditions of men, they run galloping post to Hell. The Pa∣triarch being informed by the laughing Caravan of these news, asked me in disdain (thinking it had been an Arti∣cle of my beliefe) if I saw that House, or believed that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing: to whom I constantly answered, I did not believe it, affirming it was onely but a Devillish invention, to deceive the blind-fol∣ded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Roman priests: Now thou bottomlesse Gulfe of papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies of Satans subtile storms, can make shipwrack of my Faith, on the stony shelves of they deceitfull deeps.

Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions of

their imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall pouerty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here; the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent six women, conducted by 12 of his ser∣vants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our company: to be used by him and others whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly accept, and invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall, little regarding such a frivolous commo∣dity. He, and fome of the chiefe Pilgrimes entertayned them for the space of three houres, and sent them backe, giving to their Conductors fifteene Piasters in a reward. Truly if I would rehearse the impudency of these whoors, and the brutishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most igno∣minious to the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loath∣some to the Reader.

Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaues under the Turkes; that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable Hethnick customes, but also go∣ing beyond them in beastly sensualnesse, become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy saying of that Heathenish Roman Emperour Marcus Au∣relius, who in consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that the gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeede of a Pagan a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beast∣ly Christians, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish harlots a twofold kind of voluptu∣ous abhomination, which my conscience commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northen World, with that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge

have heard hearing of the like: but God in his iust judge∣ments, that same night, threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: For wee having resolved to travell all that night, and because the way was rocky and hard to be knowne, and peril∣lous for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide named Ioab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we advanced to our passage, Ioab had sent a privie messenger before us, to warne a∣bout three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South side of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well provided with Chickens and Sultans of Gold, and Piasters of silver, and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompence and considera∣tion, as their savage judgement should thinke fit; accor∣ding to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, to∣gether with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and unknown to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary pace, some on horse, and some on foot, for my pilgrimage was ever pedestri∣all: which our guide suspecting that by our celerity wee should goe beyond the place appointed for his treache∣rous plot, began to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pools and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost, and could not be recovered, because wee all began to suspect and feare; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perished beasts.

In the end, the Captaine and Ianizaries, intreated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurate was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde it, till day light: upon

the which words, the company was stayed, and in the mean-while there came a Turke, one of our S••uldiers unto the Captain, saying; hee saw the Guide, before our departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what respect hee knew not, being long at private confe∣rence. Whereupon, they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse back, threatning him with death, to cause him confesse the truth.

In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre, (which seem'd exceeding low to me) con∣sidered thereby, that the Villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward, which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are three or foure miles short of the place inten∣ded for our massacre, yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore, if wee, incline to the North, (God willing) wee shall prevent their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered) they yielded; and so I became their Guide, in that darke night, till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch con∣sidering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemies victory, hee could not escape, sith his Treason was re∣vealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficient∣ly informe us, how to eschew these iminent dangers, for we were all in extream perill of our lives; and not so much courage not comfort left us, as the very smallest hope of any relief.

The Captain being distracted with feare, replied hee would, and thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the

Ianizaries sweare by the head of Mahomet, for the like ef∣fect: Which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way he led us, we had been all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling downe on his knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night we went with that Starre, and against morning wee were in the Westerne confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine, close by the Marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes renowned City of Tyrus, called now by the Moores Sur, was fa∣mous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed over all the World by her Citizens; and once a Kingdome of great antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were Hiram in strict bond of Confederaie, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the Persian Mo∣narchie, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men, money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from the mayne Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land: and before you come to the City, there lieth a great banke of sand, where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now, as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which maketh that ruinous Town seem more desolate. At the breake of day, I and certain Arme∣nians went to visit this decayed Towne, and found the most famous ruines here, that the Word for memory can affoord, and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos'd within the middle of the Town, fit to receive small Barks, Frigots, and Galleots: the compassing fore-face whereof, being all of foure squared Marble and Alablaster stones: the most part of all which Houses have stood on pillars

of the same stones: the infinite number whereof may as yet be, (above and below the sands) perspectively beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses here, which are Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth in Sydon. The East part of this Country aboundeth in Balme, Honey, and Oile, and was the Seat of Asher, of whom Moses prophecied, Deut. 33. 24. that he should dip his feet in Oile.

Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought us a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty two of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which said they, was one of the Pillars that Sampson pulled downe upon the Philistims at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered, that Sampson died at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine where he bore down the House of Dagon upon the Philistims: And I thinke the ancient Tyrians, said I, could not transport that Pillar so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did these Armenians that were with me confirme it also, some of whom, had been twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home a pound weight of it, and presented the half there∣of, to King Iames of blessed Memory.

Here by accident, in returning back to the Caravan, I met with an English Factor, named Master Brockesse, who then remayned at Sydon, eighteene miles from this place, and had beene down at Acre about some negotiati∣ons: Who indeed eftsoons, and kindly tooke mee into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquain∣tance: where instantly wee swallowed downe such joviall and deep carouses of Leatick Wine, that both hee and I, were almost fastned in the last plunge of understanding:

Yet neverthelesse, he conveyed me backe to my compa∣ny, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom afterwards I diverse times met with here at Lon∣don: to whose kindnesse I celebrate the memory of these lines.

But now the Sunne discovering the earth, and the night banished to the inferiour world, we were all en∣couraged, for the light of the day lends comfort: The Captaine (sending backe that false Iudas, for so was hee sworne to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith, and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning, where Elias was sustained in a great famine by a Widdow, whose sonne he raised from death.

Great are the mercies of God, for as hee hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his minde: The one a wise po∣wer of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexte∣rous resolving; whereby he executeth things well under∣stood, for we having judged the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger, although the former dayes whoredome, and unnaturall vices, deserved a just punishment.

This I intimate to all Travelers in generall, that if they would that God should further them in their at∣tempts, blesse their voyages, and grant them a safe re∣turne to their native Countries (without the which, what contentment have they for all their pains?) that they would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunken∣nesse, and too much familiarity with strangers: For a Traveller that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his

actions, although he were headed like that Herculean Ser∣pent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can returne in safety from danger of the Turkes, Arabs, Moors, wild beasts, & the dead∣ly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.

Approaching to Moun•• Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand betweene us and the Marine coast, I beheld a farre off upon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to Hea••en, when hee left his Cloake be∣hind him to Elizeus his Disciple. This mountaine is foure miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the Sea, neare to Acre, called ancient∣ly Ptolomaeis, and the South end joyning with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we past.

Leaving Samaria on our left hand, wee entred into a faire Plaine, adorned with fruitfull Trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields afford; but no Village wee saw. Marching thus about the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian, wee came in sight of two hundred Pavillians, all pitched in rankes; yeelding the prospect of a little City, by a brooke side of water: which being perceived, the Captaine began to cen∣sure what they might bee; and immediately there came riding towards us, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on Arabian Geldings, who demanded what wee were? and whither we were bound with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendome in our company. To whom the Ianisaries replyed, we were purposed to Ie∣rusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: Upon the which they presently sought mee, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting Caravan, and Ianisaries, to pay them presently for my life seven Chickens of Gold, seven times nine shillings sterling:

And this is, because sayd they, our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore we haue tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because there were no moe Franks in our company, for from the Armenians, they could not, nor would not seeke any tribute, because they were tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke: nei∣there also of any other Christians borne in his dominions, when they shall happen to fall into their hands.

They returning backe to their Prince, with the male∣diction of my heart, and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse, we marching on in our way, that day wee travelled above thirty foure miles, and pitched at a Village called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian Houses, standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine; and garnished with Olive, Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where we found also good Hearbs to eate, and abundance of Water to drinke, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As wee lay downe to sleepe after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us; that same King of the Ar••bians came a little before mid-night, with twenty four wel horsed Runagates, and naked Cour∣tiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard Steele; and asked for the Caravan, who presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the usuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sate all downe on the grasse. The Caravan presented his rude like maiesty with water, bread, hearbes, figs, garlike, and such things as he had.

As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, the

awfull King tooke the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any more Franks there then I; and he having sworne the truth: the King by a malignant informer, in∣continently caused mee to bee brought before him; and staring mee in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replyed I had none: then said hee, tell that dogge, or Elishole, hee must acknow∣ledge me with five peeces of gold more, otherwise (ma∣king a signe to his owne throate) I shall cut off his head, because (said he) I will not loose this nights travell for nothing: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition; there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, gave it him forth of mine owne hand, having consulted with my Captaine before, and that pre∣sently with a halfe smiling countenance; which hee re∣marking, told the rest, it seemed I gave it with a good heart and a cheerefull gesture, and to recompence my outward behaviour, he drunke a great draught of water to me: thinking thereby, he had done mee more honour then all the Chickens of gold I gave him now, and in the morning would doe him profit or pleasure: pleasure they could doe him none, for they were unlawfully and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the in∣ward sorrow of my sighing soule; and no wonder, ha∣ving spent two yeares great charges in Turkey, before this time, but that I should have beene exceeding penu∣rious of money, and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort.

Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the desarts of Mesopotamia, some∣times in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And

the other was hee to whom I paid this money) wan∣dereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth good pastorage, and fresh Foun∣taines. These two Kings are mortall enemies: and if by ac∣cident they meete, they fight most cruelly, bringing dam∣mage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their fol∣lowers: for it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, being untamed Savages, and mis∣regarders of civility, who continually contend to corro∣borate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet al the rest of that night, after his returne from us, we still expected some treache∣rous surprise, which made our Souldiers stand stoutly on their guard, and we Pilgrims to our vigilant and naked defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, here was my present resolution:

The more I am beset, with dreadfull snares Begirded round, in shelfie gulfes of wracke; And shipbroke left, on rockes of deepe despaires, Where helples care, with tort 'ring thoughts me racke: Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end, That time will change, and God will better send.

And now by the way I recall the aforesaid Turke, the master of the Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him, and hee sus∣pecting the contrary, was councelled bee his associats to beate me soundly, and dismount my Victuals and Wa∣ter from the Mules backe, till I propined him with the

rest. Which intention being by me understood; I forth∣with run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgel, and my bet∣ter safety procured: Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled, and an inward grudge suddenly concei∣ved, for it was the smoak, and not my self he respected.

Loves whirling fancies, mortals fondly feed As marish roots dissolve, even as they breed: An humane creature, inhumanely taught, Is worser given to ill, than evill fraught: Things in themselves, be not so bad as ill, The cause exeem'd, corruption hath free will: Mans frail affection, is a cloudy mist, Whose vapours fall, and fogge, as passions list: Bad counsell's worse, than nature ill applies, Weak judgement duls, when fear in reason flies: Thus sad eclips'd, the dark eclipsed Moon Did change, ere mine eclipsed light was won. At last the Sun-shine, of my silver day, Came crawling on, as Snails advance the way.

The next morning, when the hopefull Aurore had fore∣shown the burning birth of glassie Thetis, and that Orient Majesty arising to overcirculate the earth, then marcht we along in our way, and before mid-day pitched our Haire-cloth Tents round about Iacobs Well, neere the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and over-whelmed with Mountains of sand: wee found this ancient Well so wondrous deep, that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water: The tast whereof was wondrous cold and sweet, and for Iacobs sake, the whole number of us

drunk more of it, then need required: The fiery face of Phaebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion, that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and foure broad: and all that after∣noon we had exceeding pleasant travelling; and at night we incamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles from the ruinous Towne of Caesarea by the Sea side, and is now called by the Turks and Moores Alferron, being a Village only of sixteen Moorish Houses. Here Peter healed the man sick of the palsie.

The Towns situated by the Sea side in Phoenicia, Pale∣stine, and Iudea, are these: Sydon which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia, being a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere, or Prince of the Drusians: who being the off∣spring of the Christians, which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, descended into these parts, do still maintain their liberty against the Turkes: The Sig∣nior whereof being threatned by the Great Turke, fled to Cosmus Duke of Florence, Anno 1612, leaving his two Sonnes behinde him, the eldest to keepe Sydon, and the yonger to remayn in a strong Fortresse, on the West end of Mount Libanus: The e••der brother forthwith yiel∣ded to the Great Turke, the Signory of his Lands, but the younger would never do it, and so retaineth absolutely the Countrey of Libanus to this day, making himselfe thereupon a mountainous Monarchall Prince. Tyrus, which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre or Acon, that hath yet some indifferent trade of Merchandize, called formerly Ptolomeis: Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but the remnants of an ancient Abbey: Caesarea, who reserveth but onely the

memory of ruines, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it be to savage Moores: Ioppa or Iaphta, is a Sea-port of small Barks, but the decayed Towne containeth not one dwelling House, save onely a high Tower, which defen∣deth the Port from Cursares: Here Ionah took ship to flie from God: Here Peter raised Tabitha or Dorcas, from death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the Tanner, was in a Vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And Baruti famous for so many Christian Ar∣mies that have besieged it, is now composed of 800 fire-houses: Lying Northeast of Sydon under Mount Libanus, formerly called Iulia Foelix, nigh unto which (as fabulous stories report) Saint George delivered the Kings Daughter by killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Ca∣naan, standing in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the b••st inhabited place of all the Holy Land, Sydon and Ier••∣salem excepted.

Saturday morning before the break of day, setting for∣ward from Lydda, through the curling playnes of fat-fac'd Palestine, scarcely were wee well advanced in our way, till wee were beset with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights an unexpect∣ed shoure of Arrows, to the great annoyance of all our Company: For if it had not beene, that our Souldiers shot off their Gunnes on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bows and Arrows for our defence, wee had then miserably, in the midst of their ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike to the Iackals: For when any of them heare the shot of a Har∣quebuse, they presently turn back with such speed, as if the Fiends of the infernall Court were broken loose at their heels.

In that momentany conflict, on our side there were

killed nine Women, five Men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy Armenian Cap∣tayne, and to the rest of our Heathnish Conductors bred no small griefe: the mourning noyse among the multi∣tude, beeing also wondrous pittifull. Till bright day came, we stayed still in that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austere fortune) and at our departure thence, wee buried the slayne people in deep graves, whereby Iackals should not open up their graves, to eate their Corpes: for such is the nature of these cruell beasts, that they onely love to live on mans flesh: these ravenous beasts (as is thought) are ingendred of a Foxe and a Wolfe.

Proceeding in our journy, we entred about two of the clocke in the afternoone, in the hilly Countrey of Iudea, having two of their courses to Ierusalem, which is about twenty English miles: leaving Rhama on our right hand, which contayneth some two hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from Ioppa, from which it lyeth in the way to Ierusalem: Here remayneth the Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrimes to Ierusalem, which land at Ioppa, each Pilgrime paying seven Chickens of gold, is furnished with an Asse to ride on, all the way tributes, at going and comming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom they resigne this tributary mony.

Rhama is a Town inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores: not blacke Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a kinde of Aegyptians, and not naturally black, but Sunne-burnt with the par∣ching heate. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inha∣bited with these Moors, some Turkes, civill Arabs, and a few Christians, and scattered Iews. The Arabians are

for the most part Thieves and Robbers; the Moores cruell, and uncivill, ha••ing Christians to the Death: the Turkes are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworne enemies to Christ. But when they know how to make any gaine by strangers, O what a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable Villains, whose out-sides onely they seem to affect, but intirely the in-sides of their purses? and that is their ayme, and forcible end: wherefore they both toile with all, and conduct strangers through many perils, as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies: Time discussing all, and money over-mastering time; for Coine is the thing they must have, though ne∣cessity sometimes may not spare it.

About foure of the clock before night, wee arrived at Berah, called of old Beersheba, being eleven miles distant from Ierusalem. Having a little reposed there, gi∣ving our Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for our selves, from these despightfull Moores, (for what we carried with us, was all spent) ex∣cept a little Water: Wee embraced our Mountainous way, as cheerfully as wee could, for wee were excee∣ding faint, and travelled that day above forty three miles; whereby we might arrive at Ierusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drought, burning heate, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveni∣ences.

And now about halfe way betweene Berah and Ieru∣salem, I, and two Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. Wee I say, unhappily rancountred with foure Moorish fellows, driving be∣fore them six Asses loaden with roots, and shrubs of Wood to burne: who seeing us, they thought alone, layd hands upon us, robbed us of our pocket monies:

whereat I resisting, one of them pulled forth a broad knife, and holding me by the Beard, thought to have cut my throate, if it had not beene for one of his fellowes, who swiftly stayed him.

Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Soul••iers instantly appeared unto us; whereupon we shouting, the Moores fled to the Rocks, and our foot Soul∣diers following, apprehended two of the chiefest, and brought them to the Captaine: One of which had my money, which I presently received backe againe, but mine associates money, was with them that escaped: the Captaine and Ianisaries, meane while carried the two Moores along with them, thinking to execute them at Ierusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on Horse-backe, and on foote relieved them from the Caravan, restoring back again the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moores were exceding glad, and wee no ways discontented: for if they had not bin redeemed, certainely their friends and followers, who were thicke flocking together, would have cut us all off, before we could have attained to Ierusalem.

At last wee beheld the prospect of Ierusalem, which was not onely a contentment to my weary body, but al∣so being ravished with a kinde of unwonted rejoycing, the teares gushed from my eyes for too much ioy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in their owne fa∣shion Psalmes to praise the Lord: and I also sung the 103 Psalme all the way, till we arrived neere the wals of the City, where wee ceased from our singing, for feare of the Turkes

The Sunne being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrivall, we found the Gates locked, and the Keyes carried up to the Bashaw in the Castle; which bred

a common sorrow in the company, being all both hun∣gry, and weary: yet the Caravan intreated earnestly the Turkes within, to give us over the Wals, some victuals for our money, shewing heavily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not, neither durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remayneth there to receive Travailers of Christendome, who having got newes of our late ar∣rivall, came and demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society, and hee said, one∣ly one. Then the Guardian called me, and asked of what nation I was of, and when I told him, hee seemed to be exceeding glad: yet very sorrowfull for our misfor∣tune.

Hee having knowne my distresse, returned, and sent two Friers to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied, and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke a great fine, being a hundred Piasters thirty pounds sterling: otherwise both hee and I had bin beheaded: which I confesse, was a deare bought supper to the gray Friers; and no lesse al∣most to me, being both in danger of my Life for star∣ving, and then for receivi••g of food, therefore suspect∣ed for a traytor: for the Turkes alleadged, he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray the City: this they doe oft, for a lesser fault then that was, onely to get Bribes and money from the Grey Friers which daily stand in fear of their lives.

Anno 1612, upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, wee entered into Ierusalem, and at the Gate wee were particu∣larly searched, to the effect wee carried in no Fur∣niture of Armes, nor powder with us, and the poore

Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turkes) behoved to render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the fear they have of Christians. And my name was writ∣ten up in the Clarkes Booke at the Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulchre, might be payed at one time together, before my finall departure thence.

The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and a∣bove each Gate are brazen Ordnance planted, for their defence.

Having taken my leave of the Caravan, and the Com∣pany, who went to lodge with their own Patriarch, I was met and received with the Guardian, and twelve Friers upon the streets, each of them carrying in their hands a burning wax Candle, and one for mee also: who received me joyfully, and singing all the way to their Monastery, Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoyced, that a Chri∣stian had come from such a far Countrey as Scotia, to vi∣sit Ierusalem.

Where being arrived, they forth-with brought me to a Roome, and there the Guardian washed my right foot with water, and his Vicar my left: and done, they kissed my feet, so did also all the twelve Friers that stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke, it sore repented them of their la∣bour. I found here ten Frankes newly come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germans, noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull glad to heare mee tell the Gardian flatly in his face, I was no Roman Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were French∣men, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance, all foure being Papists: with nine other Com∣mercing

Frankes, also that dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them being Venetians, who were all glad of mee, shewing themselves so kind, so carefull, so loving, and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentlemen as ever I met withall, especially the Ger∣mains: Such is the love of strangers; when they meete in forraine and remote places. They had also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East, and beyond Ierusalem: troubling mee all the while wee were together, to shew them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia: and were a••wayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my long Perigrination.

The Sixt Part.

NOw come my swift pac'd feete to Syons seat, And faire Jerusalem: here to relate Her sacred Monuments, and those sweet places, Were fil'd with Prophets, and Apostles faces: Christs Crib at Bethleem, and Maries Cave, Calver, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave: Deep Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch'd Tombe, Sunke Lazars pit, whence he rose from earths wombe: Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake Which orient folkes doe still for Sodome take. Thence view'd I Jordan, and his mooddy streames, Whence I a Rod did bring to Royall James.

The lumpe faln Jericho, and th' Olive Mount, With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont: The Arabian Desarts, then Egypt land I toyling saw with Nylus swelling strand: Where for discourse the seuenth Part shall thee show What thou mayst learn, and what by sight I know, Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch'd bounds, That twice a yeere, in growth of grain abounds.

IErusalem, is now called by the Turks Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering it was called Ierusalem, Genes. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedeck dwelt: and Ierusalem was also called Iebus, 2 sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2 Chron. 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salo∣monis, whence came by corruption, that word Hieros••∣lyma. David, also in the Psalmes gave it divers names. And Ierusalem in the Arabick Tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the House, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Ierusalem standeth in the same place where old Ierusa∣lem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of Ierusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was anciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy Grave within the Walls, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the difference of the

situation is not so great, though a part thereof be remo∣ved; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first Ierusalem was: as may truly appeare, and is made manifest by these Mountains, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Ie∣rusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Mori∣ah, and Mount Olivet. The forme of the situation of Ieru∣salem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downward, almost to the Valley of Iehosaphat, which divideth Ierusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Syon, bordering neere to the Valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, to∣ward the North, and by West, having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The Walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Ierusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuit about three miles, and a halfe of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I re∣fer that to the famous Historiographer Iosephus, who largely discour••eth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the Sword within this multipotent City, by Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did a∣mount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were all at one time in Ierusalem; but came up by turns and times, from the cir∣cumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they

were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

This City hath oft bin conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvel∣lously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed by Vespatian and Titus: Fiftly, it was re-edified by Adrian the Empe∣rour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homor Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seventhly, by the great Souldan of Aegypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christian Prince: Eight∣ly, by Saladine the Caliph of Aegypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory there∣of for a long time: And lastly, it was surprized by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the Holy Land together with Aegypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by In∣fidels detained to this day: and by likely-hood shall keep it to the consummation of the world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she dis-leagueth conditionall amity, with the senslesse litargy of foule in∣gratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damas∣eus, whose Deputy hee is; the other being chiefe Ru∣ler under the Grand Signior over all the Holy Land and the halfe of Syria. There is a strong Garrison kept al∣wayes in Ierusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night, and circum∣spect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne

without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This is a memorable note, and worthy of ob∣servation, that at that time, when the Cities of Ierusalem and Antiochia were recovered from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Bolloigne; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Vrbanus; the Patriarch of Ierusa∣lem Heraclius, and the Roman Emperour Fredericke: And at the same time, and long thereafter, when Ierusa∣lem was re-inthralled and seized upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Vrbanus; the Patriarch of Ierusalem Heraclius; and the Roman Emperour Fredericke: After Herod the Idumean, sonne to Antipater, in whose time Christ was born: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who impri∣soned Peter and Iames, and was eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippaminor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Iews had raig∣ned, (being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Ieru∣salem was overthrowne, and the Kingdome made a Pro∣vince of the Roman Empire, Anno 37. After which de∣solation, the Iews were over all the World dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes: out of France they were rejected by Philip the Faire, Anno 1307. out of Spain by Ferdinand the Catholicke, 1492. out of Por∣tugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sycilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her Territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Vrbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiasticall papacie) wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand of them:

They are also innumerable over all the Turkish Domini∣ons, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might die a Iew; neither will they permit a Iew to turn Turk, unlesse hee first be baptized: And yet live, where they will, the most part of them are the wealthiest people in the world, having subtile, and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Iudah and Is∣rael, beginning at Moses, the Judges of the Iews were 16, of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.

The Kings of the Iews were three; Saul, David, and Salomon; And the Kings of Iudah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nebuchadnezzar destroyed Ie∣rusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Is∣raelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Sal∣manasser.

The Dukes or Governours of Iewry were fifteene, of which Ioannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Iu∣dea, which descended from the stock of David. During the government of which Captains, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Aegypt and Syria: who slaughte∣red their people, ransacked their Cities, made havock of their goods, and compelled them to eat forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fu∣ry of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the Iews chose Iudas sirnamed Machabeus for their Cap∣taine, one of the Worlds nine Worthies; who thought not of the line of David, was yet of the Tribe of Iudah.

The Machabean Princes of Iury were onely foure: Ioannes Hircanus the last who was slain by the Parthians. Of the Machabean Kings of Iudah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne to Alexander the Tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his Reigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander and Antio∣chus, he was firmly established in his Throne by Pompey; and the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the other by favour of Iulius Caesar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio, and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at God∣frey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of Ierusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Aegypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Ierusalem, and the crost, or rather now curst land of Ca∣naan: In whose hands it is faster kept, then the seventeen Belgian Provinces, remayn totally subject to the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainly understand the Monuments I saw within Ierusalem, and the circumjacent places of Iudea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius,

Saybantus a Veronesen born; whence hee, and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places: And especially the information of Iohn Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Ierusalem, and from whom the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blind-foldedly, and knows not how to distinguish the circumstances and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these Franks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposi∣tion of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe, be evanished and transported.

About two of the clocke on Palm-sunday after dinner, for all of us eat, drunk, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster a day for our diet, sixe shillings ster∣ling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Ierusalem to Bethphage: accompa∣nied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Chri∣stians, which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no means would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on the top or platforme of the Cloyster, wee stayed till their return: And yet from this place, wee saw their back-comming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; deval∣ling downward, toward the Valley of Iehosophat to ascend Mount Syon, for the greater performance of their foolery.

The ridiculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresaid Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to Ierusalem, the people cutting downe boughs of Trees, and also dis∣poyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as hee rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David, blessed is hee that commeth in the Name of the Lord: untill they came to the South gate of Syon▪ where the Guardian thought to have entred, riding through Ie∣rusalem to his Monastery, with this shouting Convoy of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patri∣archs have not that liberty to doe so, as this Italian Guar∣dian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people in∣censed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in their igno∣rant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the Covent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so sub∣stantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Ger∣mans, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor will not ad∣here to our Masses, Processions and Ceremonies which we fol∣low of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may doe as you please) onely to abstaine from scandaling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customes, which at this great Feast

we must perform▪ To which we condescended, and promi∣sed to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outward•• carriage in going al••ng with them to see their customes tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our souls.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, he disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travellers must in ge∣nerall be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Pa∣tience, and Mony: Faith, to believe these things you shall see here at and about Ierusalem: Patience, to endure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all Tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his own Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon hee concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeed hee was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation, as truly wee found the condigne triall thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to over••top his lyes, and our monies to be a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully inve∣sted.

Monday early, wee Pilgrimes went forth to view the Monuments within the City, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who said: Touch mee not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, Iohn 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Centre, or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint Iames the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was be∣headed: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is

doubtfull (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authoritie: From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Cai∣phas; but that I will not believe, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legs, and the prison doores cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of Iames and Iohn dwelt, which are nothing but a lump of Ruines.

Thence we came to the decayed Lodging of Caiphas, without the City, upon the Mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell builded, and at the entry of that lit∣tle Domo, wee saw the stone, on which the Cock crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Savi∣our, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Aba∣sines, are naturally born black, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Ierusalem, in two places, to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 heer at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would haue sacrificed Isaac: They wear on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath▪ representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devout than un∣derstanding the true grounds of their devotion, blind zeale and ignorance overswaying their best light of know∣ledge. They being a kinde of people which came from Prester Iehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us 〈…〉〈…〉 wherein (say they) Christ was 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the night be∣fore

he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place▪ where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House where (say they) the Holy Ghost discended vp∣pon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon: Over the which, their is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monu∣ments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence wee returned and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Saviour passed when hee went to be crucified, carrying the Crosse upon his Back: And at the end of the same street (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. Pilats Judgement Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but one∣ly betweene the two sides of the Lane, an old Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing full in the high Way: Here they shewed us the place, where Christ first took up his Crosse, and on the top of that Arch, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilat said to the Iews, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was born. And going down another narrow Lane, they pointed in∣to a House, and said, hee Dives the rich Glutton dwelt▪ who would not give to Lazarus the Crums of Bread that fell from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to be a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Ierusalem, having been so often transfor∣med by alterations.

Th••s I must need say, with such lying Wonders, these

flattering Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderfull ad∣miration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I wil not believe al, onely publishing them as things in different, some whereof are frivolous, and others some what more credible: But as I said before I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Eastern gate, (stan∣ding on a low Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley of Iehosaphat,) unto an immove∣able stone, upon the which they said St. Stephen was sto∣ned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As we returned to our own Convent, they brought us to Mount Moriah, and shewed us the place where Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Aethiopi∣ans: to whom each of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Ierusalem, for our going in to that place. And the other monastry that these Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of S. Kathe∣rine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strong∣ly kept by the Aethiopian Emperor: There are 200. Re∣ligious Abasines in it, and 100 souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because Mount Sinay standeth in the midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far from any civill or in∣habited place; being distant from Ierusalem above 70 English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Iesus sayd, Daughters of Ierusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neer unto this, where the Virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Iesus passed by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Iesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne, and to S. Iohn be∣hold thy mother.

Ascending more upward, they shewed us the House of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her door, all in a sweat to Mount Calvary, shee brought him a Napkin to wipe his face, which he received, and gave it to her again: in which (say they) the print of his face remai∣neth to this day, and is to be seen at Rome. It is also said to be in a Town in Spain, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia: wherefore I believe the one, as well as the rest.

So out of one, if Papists can make three By it, they would denote Heavens Deitie: But O! not so, these three revolv'd in one, Points forth the Pope, from him his tripled Crown He weav'd these Napkins, lying rear'd his seat, For which this number makes his number great.

As concerning the Temple of the most High, built by Salomon (the description of which edifice yee may read in the 3 of Kings) it was destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, at the taking of Ierusalem, Anno Mundi, 4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded again by the commandement of Cyrus King of Persia, after the Iews returned from the Captivity of Baby∣lon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the former: For besides the poverty and smalnesse of it, there wanted five things which were in the other: First, the Ark of the Covenant: Secondly, the pot of Manna: Third∣ly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly, the two Tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly, the fire of the Sacrifice, which came down from Heaven, which were the Symbols and ••adges of Gods favour and mercy shown to them, and their forefathers in his covenant of Love.

This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the Great, (that killed the young Infants for Christs sake,

who suffered for him, before he suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For this Herod the Ascolinite, was an Edo∣mite stranger, or Idumean, who having gotten the King∣dome contrary to the Law of Moses; and created King of Iewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these peo∣ple to be offended therewithall, to procure their fa∣vour did build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August; on which day likewise the first Temple, was burnt by Ne∣buchadnezzar. And lastly, there is another great Temple builded in the same place, by Sultan, Selim Seliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose Courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.

This present Temple hath two incircling Courts in∣vironed with high wals, hauing two entires: in the inner Court standeth the Temple, that is composed of five cir∣cling and large Rotundotes, rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.

These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Ierusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Ho∣ly Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one hun∣dred

souldiers, sixty Hors-men, and forty Foot-men, to take with him the day following, for his conduction to Iordan, and the Mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his usuall custome once every yeare between Palme Sunday and Easter, returning again before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed, save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the Souldiers, unlesse hee give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as a propine unto the Lievtenant, being forty two shillings sterling: and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, hee may stay there till their return, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly hee may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome and Iordans sake. That same night after supper, The Guardian demanded of us Travellers, if wee would goe with him to see these memorable, and singular things, upon the former condi∣tion: To whom wee answered in a generall consent, wee would, and so payed our moneys.

Early upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrims being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and two M••les loaden with our provision of victuals; we de∣parted from the City, about nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and By••hania on our left hand, wee had plea∣sant travelling for seven miles; but in the afternoon wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and the beasts, wee reposed till two hou••es within night. After that the Captaine had cryed Ca••e th••anga, that is, match away: we set forward, being well gua••ded round about with our Keepers, because we entred into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and ••a∣bulous 〈◊〉〈◊〉.

In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neither House, nor Village, for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wild Beasts, and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by se∣ven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it, before wee could arrive at that place of Iordan which wee intended) we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismoun∣ted, wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of perishing, although the robust∣nesse of my body carried mee through on my feete, re∣lieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pil∣grimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but not for lacke of Wine. Even in the mid∣dest of this turmoyling paine, (the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed and invaded us with a storme of Arrows, which they sent from the tops of lit∣tle hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing the advantage of the ground they took opportunity to give the more fearfull assaults; yet they prevailed nothing (al∣though they wounded some of our souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valorous Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore fa∣tigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night▪

A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and we leaving our troublesome way, wee accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Iordan. This Lake is ca∣led Lacus Asphaltites, it yieldeth a kinde of 〈◊〉〈◊〉, named Bitumen Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no

living thing can indure. And now Mare mortuum, a Sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for that no li∣ving thing breeds therein: and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmove∣able, such is the Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if a Bird flie over it, she present∣ly falleth downe therein dead: And as Salomon repor∣teth of it, Wisdome 10. 7. it smoketh continually: from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields, lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Iordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course, the two con∣trary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably record.

This Lake is foure score miles in length, and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three, foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof; bending directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the austere conspicuosity of the fabulous and stony De∣sarts: being compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Pe∣trea on the South: On the North, with the sandy Hils of the Wildernesse of Iudea: on the West, with the steepy Mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plaine of Iericho. How commeth it to passe there∣fore, that the fresh running flood of Iordan, falling ever∣more into this bounded Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neither hath it any issuing forth, nor reboun∣deth backwards on the plaine of Iericho, which is one of the greatest Wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have said, it must needs either exhale to the Clouds,

or otherwise runne downe to Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts, it would soone bee knowne; but in all the b••unds of Arabia Deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300 miles; there is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the Red Sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable, in regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the exterior Aethiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner, obscuring themselues under Rockes, Mountaines, and planures for many miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.

But as for this River, the question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five Cities of the plaine now ouerwhelmed with Water; or where was the issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty, that rained downe from the Heavens Fire and Brimstone to consume them, able also, to drowne their situatio••s and intervalling plaines with water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many Cities, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water: nay innumerable, and so remay∣ning to this day, place, beauty, and being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superaboun∣ding disgorgings.

It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling of Iordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediately dye. Although Iosephus witnesseth that in

his time, there was an Apple grew upon the banks there∣of, like to the colour of gold, and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the con∣trary: For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath bin in his days) as either Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to So∣dom by three miles: such is the consummation of that pe∣stiferous Gulf.

Divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or car∣kasses of beasts: but by experience I approve the con∣trary: For it beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands made sundry trials; and dare approve it to be of truth, in spight of the lying World, and all doting varieties of ancient Re∣lations.

The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at some∣times in the yeere, there are terrible shapes, and shews of terrour in it, as I was informed at Iericho by the Arabian inhabitants there, which is the neerest Town that borde∣reth thereupon.

This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodom, re∣sembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernall Gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion, I hold it to be the purgato∣ry of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a purgatory, I absolutely affirme, it must be such a purgatory, as the purging of Sodom and Gomor∣rah, which was with fire and brimstone, to their de∣struction.

About the breake of day on Wensday morning, wee past by the ruines of an old house; where (as they say) S. Iohn the Baptist remained, when he baptized those that came from Ierusalem, and other Regions about; which is but the flight of an arrow from Iordan.

Approaching to the banke-side wee dismounted, and uncloathed our selues, going in naked to the River, wee washed us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as pledges of our lives and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for our protection, & a con∣nivall obligation for two repugnant defences: Time pre∣senting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of Saint Iohn, when the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and their was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne, in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the bank side; where upon are ingraven letters of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing: and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.

This river Iordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines, Iore, and Dan, which run separated till they come to the lake Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course, through the lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Iordan are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other in their courses: For Iordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris runneth through the new Sodome. A history of such evidence, as travell taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which breeds in the Italians in∣solence: if I erre, I will beg indulgence, of the Popes au∣reat magnificence.

The Rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity not far different from other, which Iordan for greatnesse retaineth, and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water of Iordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drink it, is an excellent remedy for the Fever quar∣tan or quotidian, being neere in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.

Considering the ancient reputation of this famous Ri∣ver, and the rare sight of such an unfrequented place, I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine Tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and cut down a fair hunting Rod of the heavy and sad Turpen∣tine Tree, being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and of a yellowish colour; which after∣ward, with great pains, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest Jem of a Pilgrimes treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrate from the sight of the company, upon this solitary Tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friers and Souldiers remo∣ved; keeping their course towards Iericho: but within two furlongs from Iordan, they were beset with the for∣mer Nocturnall Enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration, and looking down to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plain, I saw them at a martiall com∣bate: which sight gave mee suddenly, the threatning of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, with∣in

the circumdating leaves, to approove the events of my auspicuous fortunes: Or in prosecuting a relief, to be par∣ticipant of their doubtfull deliverance. In the end pon∣dering, I could hardly, or neuer escape their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Ierusalem, leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon th•• ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present expel'd the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our Souldiers broak forth on horsebacke, being determined to kill mee for my staying behind: Yea, and three times stroke at mee with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speede, I pre∣vented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by run∣ning in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recove∣ring the Guardians face, which when the Guardian espi∣ed; and saw my naked body, hee presently pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which meanes (in the space of an houre) I was cloathed three manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian: And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage and a re∣ligious habit.

The Captaine at last entring in parley with the Arabs, by some contributing promi••es did mitigate their fury▪ for their compounded acknowledgment was to be sent them from Ierusalem: Whereupon, wee marching to∣ward Iericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade, and dined there on the Wine and provision which we car∣ried with us.

After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Za∣cheus: (this was hee who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This new Iericho is now a poore Village onely of mine dwelling Houses, inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subiection under the Governour of Ierusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals, and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant, about a short quarter of a mile. Here I saw two most dainty kinde of fruits, the one was a little lesse then an Ap∣ple, but more round: whose colour was like gold with∣out, and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Sugar. I would gladly haue eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying they were the onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish co∣lour, like to a Mellon; being both delicate and whole∣some, of which wee did eate to satisfie the naturall ap∣petite, and so did all our Souldiers eate of them exces∣sively: their Tre••s growing high and greene by a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of Elizeus. From Iericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse; our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ fasted forty dayes: where arriued, being la••e, we durst not go up til morning, Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountaine of E∣lizeus, the Water of which, was of old naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet tast: It is good for digestion, and harmlesse for health; and it is the lightest water the earth yeelds; having on the morrow filled a Boares skin of it, to carry with me to the mountain; I found it so light, that I had no weight

nor pain in the bearing of it on my shoulders: notwith∣standing, the way of it self was fastidious. This mountain is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation of my painfull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.

There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath been hewen out of the Rock by the industry of men, experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up by the Degrees of forty five turns. In all our Company there were onely one Frier, foure Germans, and I, that durst attempt to climbe the Mountain.

Thursday early at the breake of day, wee sixe made us for the Mountaine, leaving our Souldies to guard the passage below, lest some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our Destruction. Where after divers turnings, traversings, and narrow foot passages, having come with great difficulty to the top, wee entred first into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, where the Frier told us, that in this place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where hee rebuked Sathan. The Chappell which covereth the top of this high and steepy R••ck is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: between the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this Mountain, two men may only go side to side: Here wee di••ed and refresht our selves with water that I carried on my back hither: From which place we saw the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Iudea, Palestine, and Phoenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea, and Deserta, and all the length of Iordan, even from Sodom to Maronah.

At last in our Returne and fearfull descending, there would none of us go down foremost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards, yet first downward for his life he durst not go: and that because at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some were twice my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing but dimples and holes to receive our feet, which in descending was perillous. Now the greatest danger, at every turn, was in the down going of the foremost, who was to receive them all, one by one, and foot their feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed, his sliding down had miscarried them both over the Rock.

Now for the noble Germans sake, two of whom were great Barons, Signior Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassalls to the Marquesse of Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went, receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their feet by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine arms: Well, having past halfe way downwards, wee came to the most scurrile and timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty, I set safe the foure Germans in our narrow Rode hewen ••ut of the craggie Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence he comming downe from above, with his bel∣ly and face to the Rocke, holding his hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was pla∣cing his feet in the holes, distempered feare brought him downe upon mee with a rushling hurle: Whereupon straight I mainly closed with my left arme his body fast to the Rock, keeping strongly my right shoulder to the same place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and

letting him fall, but he would have caught me head-long with him, over the Rock: And yet the Germans cried still to me, Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo conil Diavo∣lo, esalva caro fratello la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell, and save, O deare brother, your own life: But I neither would nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him, I suffered him to slide s••ftly down between my arme and the Ro••k, to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe upon his knees, and gave me a thousand blessings, vowing for this, hee would do me a great good deed before I left Ie∣rusalem.

At last towards the afternoon, wee safely arrived at the foot of the Mountaine, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the rest, who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life: Where∣upon the Guardian, and the other Friers, did imbrace mee kindly in their arms, giving mee many earnest and lo∣ving thanks.

And now the Souldiers and we being advanced in our Way, as wee returned to Ierusalem, wee marched by an old Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Ierome dwelt, and was fed there by wilde Lions: Having tra∣vailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee arrived at Ie∣rusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept o∣pen a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Mo∣nastery, wee supped, and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe day, more then 34 miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the Friers, were making themselves ready to go with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, called Sancto Salvatore; where we were to stay Good-friday and Saturday, and Easter-Sunday till mid-night: They tooke their Cooke with

them also to dresse our Diet, carrying Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruits hither in abundance. Mean while, a Iew, the Trench-man of the Turkish Sanzacke, came to the Monastery, and received from every one of us Pil∣grimes, first two Chickeens of Gold for our severall heads, and entry at Ierusalem: and then nine Chickeens a piece, for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chickeen of gold a man, to himselfe the Iew, as being due to his place.

Thus was there twelve Chickeens from each of us dis∣patched for the Turke: And last one, and all of us, beho∣ved to give to the Guardian two Chickeens also for the Waxe Candles and Fooleries he was to spend in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies, these three aforesaid nights: which amounted in all to every one of us, to fourteen Chickeens of gold, six pounds six shillings ster∣ling. So that in the whole from the six Germans, foure Frenchmen, and nine commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria, Venetians and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty six pounds sterling.

This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church, where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes, readie to receive us, sitting in the Porch without the Doore; who forthwith opened at randon the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively: We being within, the doore made fast, and the Turks returned to the Castle, the first place of any note wee saw, was the place of Unction, which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an iron Revele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed; after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles Ioseph of Arimathea, was preparing that new Se∣pulcher

for him wherein never man lay: from thence wee came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained within this glorious edifice.

The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell, standing within a round Quiere, in the west end of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries: as wee entred the first doore, three after three, and our shooes cast off, for these two roomes are wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (hee said) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, wee saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion, offered up his prayers to God.

The Sepulcher it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three foote five inches broad, being co∣vered with a faire Marble stone of white colour.

In this Chappell, and ab••ut it, I meane without the utter sides of it, and the inward incirclings of the com∣passing Quiere, there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes, who stand most of them within incircling bands of pure Gold, which is exceeding sumptuous; having the names of those, who sent or gave them, ingraven upon the up∣per edges of the round circles: each of them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon ano∣ther, with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glo∣rious. The fairest whereof was sent thither by King Iohn of England, whereon I saw his Name, his Title,

and Crowne curiously indented, I demanded the Guar∣diano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was, but because (said he) Christians re∣sorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof, which cau∣sed S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts of it should alwayes remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance, betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my paces: This Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15 coupell of Marble Pillars, and of 22 foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell, there is a little six-angled Turret made of Cedar wood, cove∣red with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree. The chappell it selfe standeth in a de∣micircle or halfe Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East, to the great body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opp••site to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.

The forme of the Quier wherein it standeth, is like unto the ancient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columnes, being open at the top, with a large round; which yeel∣deth to the heavens, the prospect of that most sacred place.

In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remayned there: whence wee had the full prospect of all the spacious Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast of Easter day, being about 6000 persons: from this curious carved Chappell wee returned through the Church to Mount Calvary▪

To which wee ascended by 21 steps, 18 of them were of Marble, and three of Cedar-wood: where, when we came I saw a most glorious and magnifick roome, whose covert was supported all about with rich Columnes of the Por∣phyre stone, and the over-seelings loaden with Mosaicke work, and over-gilded with gold, the floor being curious∣ly indented with intermingled Alablaster & black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platform'd Rock, all covered with thick and ingraven boards of silver; and in it a hole of a cubits deep, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon our Saviour was crucified: And on every side therof a hole for the good and bad thieves, were then put to death with him. Descending from Mount Calvary, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Ierusalem, and re∣fused to be crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Masters head had been crowned with thorns; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:

Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, qui t••tam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat in pace.

And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curi∣ously indented.

Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus Spes patriae, Vigor Eccl••siae, Virtus, utriusque; Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant. Caesar, Aegypti Dan, ac homicida Damasus; Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.

The other things within the Church they shewed us, were these, a Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our

Saviour was bound, when hee was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place is a low Celler, about fourteene stone degrees under the ground, where the Crosse was hid by the Iewes, and found againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thornes, which is reser∣ved by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots for his Garment; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse, being laid along upon the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which (as they say) rent at his Cru∣cifying, which is more likely to be done with hammers: and set one peece a foote from another, for the slit lookes, as if it had bin cleft with wedges and beetles. And yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rock, but the Tem∣ple that did rent in two from the bottome to the top, wherein these silly soule-sunke Friers are meerely blinded, understanding no more than leying traditions; perfiting this their nationall Proverb;

Con arte, et con inganno, ci vivono medzo l' anno Con inganno et con arte, ci vivono l' altera parte. With guile and craft, they live the one halfe yeare With craft and guile, the other halfe as cleare.

And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to shew us where the head of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtfull, that I doe not register them for truth (I meane in demonstrating the particular places) but onely relates them as I was informed.

There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and Language, who continually (induring life) remaine within this Church, having incloystered lodgings joy∣ning to the walls thereof: their victuals are brought daily to them by their familiars, receiving the same at a great hole in the Church doore; for the Turkes seldome open

the entry unlesse it be when Pilgrimes come, save one houres space onely every Saturday in the afternoon, and at some extraordinary Festivall days: and yet it doth not stand open then, but onely opened to let strangers in and shut again: For this purpose each family have a Bell fastned at their lodging, with a string reaching from thence to the Church-doore, the end whereof hangeth outwardly; By the which commoditie, each furnisher ringing the Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come to receive their necessaries, for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore, and returne from it to the Cloyster.

The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about three hundred and fifty persons, being Itali∣ans, Greeks, Armenians, Aethiopians, Iacobins, a sort of cir∣cumcised Christians, Nestorians, and Chelfains of Mesopo∣tamia.

The day before the Resurrection, about the houre of mid-night, the whole Sects and sorts of Christians O∣rientall (that were come thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Ierusalem) convened together, which were about the number of sixe thousand men, women, and children: for being separated by the Patriarchs in two companies, they compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands burning Candles, making the beginning pittifull, and lamentable regreetings, but in the ending, there were beating of Kettle-drums, soun∣ding of Horn-trumpets, and other instruments, dancing, leaping, and running about the Sepulchre, with an intol∣lerable tumult, as if they had been all mad, or distracted of their wits.

Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere simplicitie, wanting civilitie, and government.

But the Turkes have a care of that, for in the midst of all this hurley burley, they runne amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with cruell stroaks: and so these slavish people, even at the height of their Ce∣remonious devotion are strangely abused.

But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a grea∣ter regard, because of our Tributes: The Turkes meane while guarding us, not suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular dotage of the Romish folly, being after this manner: First, the Guardian, and his Friers brought forth of a Sacrastia, allotted for the same pur∣pose, the wooden portracture of a dead Corps, represen∣ting our Saviour, having the resemblance of five bloody Wounds, the whole body of which Image, was covered with a Cambrick Vaile: Where having therewith thrice compassed the Chappell of the Holy Grave, it was carried to Mount Calvary, and there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oile, Balme, and odoriferous perfumes.

Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friers knee∣led downe, and kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turkes meane while laughing them to scorne in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence they returned, and laid the senslesse blocke upon the Holy Grave, whence being dismissed the Papall Ceremony ended.

Truly hereupon, may I say, if the Roman Jesuites, Dominicans and Franciscans, there Resident in certain speciall parts of the Turkes Dominions, had onely be∣haved themselves as their politick charge required, and dismissed from the Paganisme eyes, onely their idola∣trous Images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like externall superstitious Rites. These Infidels I say, had

long ago (without any insight of Religion) beene con∣verted to the Christian Faith. For besides all this blind∣nesse, what infinite abominable Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spaine; in clothing the Pictures of dead Ab∣bots, Monks, Priors, Guardians, and the better kinde of Officiall Friers and Priests, with Robes of Sattin, Velvet, Damask, Taffaty, long gowns and coules of cloth, shirts, stockings, and shooes: And what a number of livelesse pourtrayed Prioresses, motherlesse Nuns, yet infinite mo∣thers, be erected (like the Maskerata of Morice-dancers) in silver, gold, gilded brasse, iron, stone, tinne, lead, cop∣per, clay, and timber shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: over-wrought with silk, silver and gold∣laces, rich bracelets, silk grograims, and Cambrick Vails, chains, smocks, ruffs, cuffs, gloves, collers, stockings, gar∣ters, pumps, nose-gayes, beads, and costly head-geire, setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for gods, in kneeling, praying, and say∣ing Masses before them: Yet they are none of their a∣vowed, allowed, and canonized pontificall Saints: for al∣though they be bastards and wooden blocks, yet are they better clad, then their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings Daughter alive. Which is a sinfull, odious, and damnable idolatry; and I freely confesse at some times, and in some parts I have torne a pieces those rich garments from their senslesse Images & Blocks, thin∣king it a greater sin not to do it, than to s••and staring on such prodigall prophannesse, with any superstitious re∣spect, or with indifferent forberance to winke at the wic∣kednesse of Idolaters.

Here the Guardiano offered for ten pieces of gold (al∣though my due be thirty Chickeens said hee) to make me Knight of the holy Grave, or of the order of Ierusalem▪

which I refused, knowing the condition of that dete∣stable Oath I behoved to have sworne; but I saw two of these other Pilgrimes receive that Order of Knight hood.

The manner whereof is thus: First, they binde them∣selves with a solemne vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope, King of Spaine, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receive their maintenance; and also in∣speciall, for the French King, by whose meanes they ob∣taine their liberty of the Great Turke, to frequent these monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to Protestants, and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Roman Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearly some stipend unto the Order of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a gilded Spurre on his right heel, causing the yong made Knight stoop down on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this hee taketh a broad sword from un∣der his gray gown (being privately carried for feare of the Turks) which is (as hee said) the Sword, wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered Ierusalem, and giveth this new up-start Cavaliero, nine blows upon the right shoul∣der. Lo here the fashion of this Papisticall Knighthood, which I forsook.

Indeed upon the Knighthood they have certain privi∣ledges among the Papists, of which these are two: If a Malefactour being condemned and brought to the Gal∣lows, any of these Knights may straight cut the rope and relieve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silks through all Spaine and Italy, or else-where, and pay no Custome, neither in comming nor going, nor for any silke ware, where the Romish Church hath any comman∣dement.

After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies, upon Easter day, before midnight, wee re••urned to the Monastery, having stayed three dayes within that Church: And the next day thereafter, the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning back to their severall Stations.

About sixe of the clocke on monday morning, the Pa∣dre Viccario, and the aforesaid Iohn Baptista accompa∣nying us, wee travailed abroad in the hilly Countrey of Iudea. In this dayes journey, the places of any note wee saw were these. First, where the Daughters of Ierusalem came foorth to meete Saul, crying, Saul hath slaine his thousand, and Dauid his ten thousand: And for memory of this standeth a certaine olde pillar of Marble. Next the valley of ••rebin, where David slew the great Goliah. And for remembrance of that, there are a great heape of stones layd together in the bottome of the valley, like to the Relickes of an old monument. Thirdly Bezura, where Absalom killed his brother Ammon for Thamars sake, whereof nothing but the name is onely reser∣ved.

Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, now altogether ruinated except only three firehouses of Moores; in which our Sa∣viour was knowne after his resurrection, by the two Dis∣ci••les, in breaking of bread; where now the remanent•• of that house being vaulted, is turned over for a shelte∣rage to sheepe, and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goates.

Fiftly, the valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sunne stood still at the voice of Ioshua, from his naturall course. Ioshua 10. 12.

Sixtly, the Tombe or buriall place of Samuel, that divine Prophet of the Lord: over the which the

Moores have a Moskque erected, wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found one of the finest Fountaines in all Iudea, and yet not a dwelling house neere unto it by three miles, in regard of the sas∣cinous and infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light, sweete and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombes of the valiant Captaine Iudas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are now onely the ruines of an old Chappell, which is converted in a hold for Sheepe and Goates: And last of all, the bu∣riall place of the noble Family of the Kings and Queenes of Israel, or Ierusalem, being neere unto the Citty, and within a short halfe mile. The entry whereto was so straite, that on our backes we behoved to slide downe, above ten paces under the ground with light candles in our hands.

In that spacious place we saw twenty foure Chambers hewen out of a Marble Rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that the rarest spirit of ten thousand cannot know how these doores have beene made, so to moove as they do, being a firme Rocke both below and above; and the doores have neither iron nor timber-worke about them: but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where they grew they are squared; yea and so exquisitely done that the most curious Carpenter cannot ioyne a peece of boord so neat∣ly, as these stone doores joyne with the Rock. In each of these roomes are two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.

Thursday, the tenth day of my being at Ierusalem, not reckoning the two dayes we spent in going to Iordan the weeke, before: We I say, issued forth of the City

early with our aforesaid Guides, riding Westward: The first remarkable thing wee saw, was the place (as they say) where the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suf∣fered: being reserved by Greeks, who have a Convent builded over it: That Crosse is said to have been of foure sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they shewed vs but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have been of one peece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched, by the pregnancy of riper judgements then mine, howsoever opinio••s.

And here I cannot forget a dissembling knavish Greeke, who came here to London some eight yeares ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassa∣dour intertained him; and recommended his cause to our politique power: A contribution is granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled, besides the severall acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers: Opportunity come, I rancountred with this counter∣feit Rascall in White Hall: Whereupon divers Gentle∣men his Majesties servants, desired me to try him, if he had beene at Ierusalem, or dwelt at the Cloyster of the ho∣ly Crosse: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood, hee replyed within Ierusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false, for the Convent is remote from the Citie, about three English miles: I posed him further ab••ut the situation of Ierusalem, &c. The quantity of this Cloyster, of its Church, of the number of Friers, who li∣ved in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be redious: To any one of which, he could not re∣ply, but stood shivering for feare and shame; neither had he never been in Asia nor these parts: whereupon stealing out of the Court, hee was no more seen abroad: for hee

had got at Court, and in the Kingdome, above twelve hundred pounds sterling, besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was a tricke, that then the Spanish faction put on us and themselves also being deceived by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit, policy, and lyes.

About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountaine of Iudea, where wee saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the mother of Saint Iohn Bap∣tist dwelt when Mary came up from Galilee to salute her; and neare to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctu∣ary wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Eliza∣beth was delivered: Two miles further, on a Rocky Mountaine, wee arrived at a Cave, wherein (say they) S. Iohn did his penance till he was nineteene yeares of age, afterwhich time, he went downe and dwelt at Iordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a Rocke, to the which we mounted by twelve steppes, having a window our through a great thicknesse of firme stone whence wee had the faire prospect of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto, gusheth forth a most de∣licious Fountaine.

Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountaine, from whence wee saw the most part of Iudea and to the Westward, in the way of Aegypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits land ly∣ing also between Aegypt▪ and Ierusalem: This cloudy height, is called, the Mountaine of Iudea, because it over∣toppeth all the rest of the Mountaines, that circumviron Ierusalem, Palestine, Gallilee, Phenicia, or Samaria. De∣scending on the South of the same Hill, wee arrived at Phillips Fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch of Aethiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we

paid some certaine Madi••s unto the Moores of the Vil∣lage, for accosting the place, and drinking of the wa∣ter: So did wee also for the sight of every speciall Monu∣ment in Iudea.

At night, wee lodged in Bethleem, in a Monastery of the same Fransciscans of Ierusalem, being onely sixe Fri∣ers: After Supper we went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was borne▪ over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea, the ••ost large and royall workemanship that for a Church is in all Asia, or Affrick, being decored with an hundred and fifty Pillars. But before wee came where the Crib had beene, wee passed certain difficile wayes; where, being arrived, wee entred in a gorgeous roome, adorned with Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster stones; and there they shewed us both the place and the resemblance of the Crib: ouer which were hanging lampes of pure Gold, and within their circles oile continually burning. Not farre from that place, and within the body of the admirable Church, they shewed us the part, over the which, the Starre stayed, that conducted the three Wise-men from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ, and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Caue without the Townh, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by the An∣gell) Shee and Ioseph fled downe into Aegypt with the Child.

In this time of her feare, say they, the milke left her blessed breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but Shee praying to the Almighty, there came forthwith a∣bundance, which overflowing her breasts, and falling to the ground, left ever since, as they alledge, this con∣sequent

vertue to this Cave.

The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any Liqu••ur, to a Woman, that after her Child birth is bar∣ren of Milke, shall forthwith give abundance: which is not onely available to Christians, but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come from farre Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seene the nature of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to have the force of a strange vertue. Of the which Earth I brought with me a pound weight, and presented the halfe of it to our sometimes Gracious Queene Anne of blessed Memory, with di∣vers other rare Relicts also, as a Girdle, and a paire of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly wrought in silke and gold, having this inscription at every end of them in golden Letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word Ieru∣salem, &c.

Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twentie Moores to conduct us unto Salomons Fish-ponds, which are only three, being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the water in a stone Con∣duit, along the Mountains, that serveth Ierusalem, which worke was done by Salomon. The ponds being ••ewen out, and made square from the devalling face of a preci∣pitating Mountaine; through which the stream of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the ponds till it come to its own aquadotte.

Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, wee passed through the Valley of Hebron, where Iacob dwelt, and entred into the fields of Sychem, where Ia∣cobs Sons kept their Fathers Sheep; and not farre hence, they shewed us a dry pit, which they called Iosephs pit,

that was at Dothan; wherein hee was put by his Brethren before they sold him to the Ismaelites.

In ••ur backe comming to Bethleem, wee saw a Cave in the Desart of Ziph wherein David hid himselfe, when he ws persecuted by King Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Sheepherds. Unto all which parts our Moorish guard and Iohn Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to Bethleem, where wee stayed the second night.

Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in all Iudea, situa∣ted on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from Ierusa∣lem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our a∣bode there; also in, and about Ierusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day following the Vic∣cario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in which (said he) was the Tombe of Rachell, Iacobus wife, who died in that place; as shee was travelling from Padan-Aram, with her husband Iacob.

The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) th Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in traveling. Wee saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was onely made by the impression of his b••∣dy; as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portracture on a hard stone. And not farre from this, hee shewed us the place, where the Starre ap∣peared to the wise men, after they had left Herod to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.

Approaching Mount Syon, we saw a quadrangled, dry

pond; wherein (say they) Beersheba the Wife of Vriah, was Washing, when David looked forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust, gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation; and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was be∣witched by her beauty; wherewith corruption trium∣phed in Nature, and Godlinesse decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in the bloudy lists of Murther and Adultery.

Over against this place, on the North side of Gehin∣non wee saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which had beene one of the Angles of the ancient Cit∣ty; and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North part of Mount Syon, even to the Valley Iehosophat, and so Eastward, being now filled up with fragments of old walles, and the Valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East; borde∣ring along the South side of Syon, till it ioyne also with the narrow Valley of Iehosophat, which invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Ierusalem. Neere to this demolished tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who hauing seene the blessed Messias said: Now, Lord, let thy Servant depart in peace, for mine eyes haue seene thy Salva∣tion.

And now lastly upon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelue Friers, and Iohn Baptista (because that was the last day of ••eeing any more Monuments, or was to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of the City, wee came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they) Peter after his deniall of Christ his Master wept bitterly.

Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed

the Valley Gehinnon, and came to Acaldema the Potters ••ield, or field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to the devaling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are invironed with a naturall Rocke, and the fourth square bordering with the Valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is co∣vered, and hath three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe, for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe, I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding sheets, and newly dead, lying one aboue an o∣ther in a lumpe; yeelding a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, saue onely the art¦chitecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.

Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a dark Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselues, when Christ was taken. At the foote of the same valley, wee came to Ponto N••hemia, in which place the Iewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives to Ba∣bylon; walking more downeward, toward the Valley of Iehosophat, wee saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein (said the Guardian) the Id••∣latrous Iewes made a sacrifice of their children unto a bra∣zen Image called Moloch, which being made hot they in∣closed them in the hollownesse thereof; and so slue them: and lest their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundring noise with Drums, and other Instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Ier. 7. 31. Hence wee came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the water whereof falleth down through a Rock, from the City above, running straight to the Valley of Ieho∣sophat;

and there we saw also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this wee saw a Fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash the Babes cloaths and linnen clouts. From thence wee cros∣sed the Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the Valley of Iehosophat: and is always dry, unlesse it be in December, when the rain falleth there impetuously for a moneth together, which is all the Winter they have in these parts: during which time none may labour, nor tra∣vell, but forced to keepe themselves within Houses: Having past, I say, this Brook we came to the Tombes of Absolom and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein Saint Iames was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Iews. Ascending more upward on the Hill, in the way of Bythinia, wee saw these places, where Iudas hanged himselfe, over which there is a Vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory of his selfe murther: and hard by they shewed us where the withered Fig-tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone Dike; and halfe a mile thence wee came to the ruined house of Simon the Leper.

Arriving at Bythania, we saw the Castle and Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a Miracle, in raising him from the Grave, after hee had been foure dayes dead. It is a singular and rare Alablaster Tombe, and so exqui∣sitely done, that it excelleth (Ierusalem excepted) all the Monuments in Iudea, erected for the l••ke purpose, being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed House where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say they) when hee said to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.

Leaving this moorish Bythania, being now a Village of no qualitie, wee returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.

From this place we had the full prospect of Ierusalem: For the City standing upon the edge of a Hill, cannot be seen all at one sight; save on this Mountain, which is two times higher then Mount Syon. These are the Monuments shewn us upon the Mount of Olives: First, the print of the left foot of our Saviour, in an immoveable stone, which he made when hee ascended to Heaven; the Guar∣diano told us further, that the right foots print was taken away by the Turks; and detained by them in the Temple of Salomon: But who can think our Saviour trod so hard at his Ascension, as to have left the impression of his feet behind him.

Next the place where hee foretold the judgement to come, and the signes, and the wonders, that should be seene in the Heavens before that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum was made, which is a fine Chamber under ground, like a Church, having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught his Disciples the Pater noster, and where hee fell in an Agony, when hee sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, Iames, and Iohn slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them; and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixt∣ly, the Garden of Gethsemaine, where Christ used com∣monly to pray; in the which place he was apprehended by the Officers of the high Priests, and it was also where Iudas kissed him, and the Serjants fell backward on the

ground. Seventhly, they shewed us a stone marked with the Head, Feet, and Elbows of Iesus, in their throwing of him down, when as they bound him, after he was taken, and ever since (say they) have these prints remayned there.

And lastly, at the foot of Mount Olivet, in the Valley of Iehosaphat, we descended by a paire of staires of forty three steps, and six paces large, in a faire Church builded under the ground: Where (say they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did shew it unto us, whom (they think was born in Ierusalem, dwelt at Bethleem, and Nazareth, and died upon Mount Syon. I saw also there, the Sepulchres of Ioseph her Husband, Ioachim her Father, and of Anna her Mother. And for which sights paying sixteene Madins a man, to certaine Moores: we returned to our Monastery again night to re∣pose us, having seen all the Antiquities and places of note, were to be seen, in, and about all Iudea.

Lo, I have plainly described all these Monuments, by the order of these twelve severall days: The like hereto∣fore, was never by any Travailer so punctually, and so tru∣ly, and so curiously set down, and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I said in the beginning of my Description, so say I now at the conclusion, some of these things are ridiculous, some of manifest untruths, some al∣so doubtfull, and others, somewhat more credible, and of apparant truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used, as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian, Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman Iohn Baptista.

Now in Ierusalem, we the eleven Franks stayed three dayes longer, preparing our selves for a new Voyage to go down to Aegypt with a Caravan of Grand Cayro: In

which time the aforesaid Frier Laurenzo, whose life I had saved on the Quarantanam, propined mee privatly with twelve Crosses made of the Olive Wood of Mount Oli∣vet: Each Crosse having 24 Relicks indented in them, with forty pair of Chaplets made of that same Wood, two Turkish Handkerchiefs, and three paire of Garters and Girdles of the Holy Grave: All wrought in silke and Gold, with divers other things, &c. Which were not so thankfully received, as they were thankfully given, by a gratefull and unforgetfull Frier. Meanwhile, the last day of our staying there, wee went all of us Friers and Pil∣grimes in againe to the Holy Grave, where we remained all night. Early on the morrow there came a fellow to us, on Elias Areacheros, a Christian inhabiter at Bethleem, and pu••veyer for the Friers; who did ingrave on our severall Armes upon Christs Sepul∣cher the Name of Iesus, and t••e Holy Crosse; being our own option, and desire: and heere is the Modell thereof, But I, decyphered, and sub∣joyned below mine, the foure incorporate Crowns of King Iam••••, with this Inscription, in the lower circle of the Crown, Vivat Jacobus Rex: returning to the fellow two

[illustration]

Piasters for his reward: I fixt these lines for King Iames.

Long may he live, and long may God above Confirm, Reward, Encrease his Christian love: That He (blest King of men) may never cease To keep this Badge, the sacred Prince of Peace; And there's the Motto, of His Maiden Crown, Haec nobis invicta miserunt, ner'e wonne.

Which when the Guardian understood, what I had done in memory of my Prince upon that Sacred Tombe, he was greatly offended with me, that I should have polluted that holy place, with the name of such an Arch-enemy to the Roman Church. But not knowing how to mend himself, and hearing mee to recite of the Heroicke Vertues of our matchlesse Monarch: who for Bounty, Wisdom, and Lear∣ning, was not paragonized among all the Princes of the earth: His fury fell; and begun to intreat me, to make it known to his Majesty, that he never allowed any support to their afflicted lives, neither any gratuity for maintayning of these Sacred Monuments at Ierusalem, his subjects being as free here as they. Which indeed I performed, for after my arrivall in England, and having propined his Majesty with divers rare things, and a Turpentine rod from Iordan; in the midst of my Discourses, I told his Highnesse, in the Privy Garden of Greenwitch, the Guardians request. Who indeed gave me a most gracious answer, saying, They never sought any help of him, and if they had, he would have suppor∣ted their necessity. Bidding farewel to the Church of S. Sal∣vatore, and being re-incloy••tred again, after breakfast, the reckoning of Stridor Dentium came to us for 17 days diet, being to each man six shillings a day, amounting for my part to 5 pounds two shillings. Then the Guardians Secre∣tary, presented me my Patent under their Great Seal; and

that cost me 3 Chickeens of Gold. The beginning where∣of I recall, although the principall, be lost in the Inquisi∣tion of Malaga, was thus: Frater Gaudentius Sayban∣tus ordinis minorum regularis observantiae Sancti An∣tonii Dei & Apostolicae sedis gratia, Sacri Montis Sion Guardianus, terrae sanctae gubernator & ••••stos; ac in partibus orientis Apostolicus Commissarius, salutem in

[illustration]

Domino sempiternam. Notum vobis facimus, &c. The Contents whereof reciting all the memorable things I saw within the Holy Land, there was thereunto annexed their ••reat Seal, sticking fast, or locked in upon the lower face of the Parchment, the impression whereof, had the Effigies of th•• 12 Apostles, and Christ in the midst: ha∣ving this Circumscription about: Magnum sigillum Sacri montis Sion Guardi••nus. The m••dell whereof is affixed in the former page.

Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Inter∣preter to reward every one of us propining him with two Chickeens of Gold: And lastly, wee gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cymerian Cooke, and his Aetnean face, with a Chickeen of Gold the man, from each of us: amounting in all among the four Catz••∣cullioni, to twenty foure pounds fifteene shillings ster∣ling.

Nay, this was not all; for even when the Aegyptian Ca∣ravan, was staying for us without the City, the Guar∣dian made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our boun∣ties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other base and flattering speeches: which in∣deed nine of us refused, because of the great Extortion hee had imposed upon us before; but the two Germa•• Barons gave him the value of six English pounds, or there∣abouts.

And now finally, ere I leave Mount Syon, I think it not amisse, to give the itching Traveller a frozen sto∣macke, who perhaps soweth Words in the Winde, con∣ceptions in the Ayre, and catcheth Salmons swimming on Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed within the Walles of Ierusalem, not

reckoning my journall expences and tributes else-where abroad; arising to 18 pounds 16 shillings sterling. And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and imaginary in∣ventions: And it may serve also, to damnifie the blind conceit of many who think that Travellers are at no char∣ges, go where they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false, as an hereticall errour. May the 12, and the 18 day of my staying there, about mid-day, the other ten & I joyned with the Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Egypt, & to furnish the rest with Camels or Dromidaries to ride upon, (for I would never ride any) for 19 Piasters the man, discharg∣ing us also all Tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way; & so we marched through the South∣west part of Iudea towards Idumea; or the Edomites land; and mean-while I gave Ierusalem this good-night, &c.

Thrice sacred Sion, somtimes blaz'd abroad, To be the Mansion of the living God; For Prophets, Oracles, Apostles deare And godly Kings, who raisd great glory here: Where Aarons R••d, the Arke and Tables two, And Mannaes Pot, fire of sacrifice so From Heaven that fell: were all inclos'd in thee Containing neer, what not contain'd could be: To thee sweet Sion, and thine eldest daughter, Which Titus fiercely sackt with Iewish slaughter: And to thy second birth, rais'd to my sight I prostrate bid, thy blessed bounds good night: Next for the Holy land, which I have trac'd, From end to end; and all its beauty fac'd; Where Kings were stall'd, disthron'd, defac'd, renown'd, Cast down, erect'd, unscepterd, slain, and crown'd:

The land of Promise, once a Sea of Oile Whence milk and honey flow'd; yea, to a soile Where men, and might, like miracles were rais'd Sprung from a Garden plot: A wonder prais'd Above conceit: whose strength did for excell All other lands; take thou my kind farewell. And last Franciscan Friers, O painted Tombs! Where vice and lust lurke low, beneath your wombs; Whose hearts, like Hell, do gape for greed of gold, That have Religion, with your conscience sold, To you I say a pox, O flattering Friers! And damn'd deceivers, born and bred for Lyers, Whose end my purse implores; O faithlesse fellows! And leaves you for your pains, curst Hamans gallows.

Having bid farwell to Syon, we marched that afternoon in the way of Gaza; and arrived at night in a goodly Vil∣lage, more full of Iews than Moores, called Hembaluda, si∣tuate on the face of a fruitfull Hill, and the last limit of Iudea: Here the Germans and I were well entertained gra∣tis, by certain Iews that spoke Italian, and much rejoyced to see such strangers in these bounds, for two of them had been borne in Venice: The Captaine, and our company were all Aegyptians, all of them being Christians, called Copties, viz. believers: Their number was about 800 per∣sons, who had come up from Aegypt, to dignifie for devo∣tions sake this Easter time, being the greatest feast of Ie∣rusalem; of whom by the way we received great affability and kinde respect without any offence.

That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within the Town making merry with our Hebraick friends, early the next morning we imbraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land sorely dis••ressed by the

Arabs, and yet the inhabitants were subject to the Turke: In this long days journey wee found abundance of water, and all other necessaries for our reliefe, and yet the people were both rude and extream barbarous, having no more shew of humanity then the foure-footed Leopards of Berdoa.

The Dutch Gentlemen grew affraid at these Savages, as being unacquainted before with such an awful fight; & to dispel their fear, tush, said I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flash'd out these lines in Italian to them.

To gallant minds, all kinde of soils they be, Their native land; as fish imbrace the Sea: For they who would traverse earths variant face, Must take their hazard, as they finde the place; And that's my soile; best means can me defray, But Sirs be glad, we came not here to stay.

Againe night wee declined towards Gaz••, and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the whole Caravan, Souldiers, Camels, Dromidores, Mules, and Asses were all well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan, or Market place, and there furnished our selves with provision of Bread, Hens, Egs, Garlick, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry us through the Desarts being ten days journey. Gaza now is called Habalello, and is composed of 1200 fire-houses, and fensible against the incursions of Arabs: The chiefe Citi∣zens, being Turks, Moors, Iews, domestick Arabians, with a few Georgians, and Nostranes.

There is a Garrison here of Souldiers, and a Turkish Captaine, that commandeth the Towne and Castle: In the afternoone, wee set our faces forward to that feare∣full

Wildernesse, and traviled ore night twelve miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our Guard kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the Germanes from langour, cherishing them with joviall merriments, for they were my inward friends yet of a faint and fearefull nature. At the breake of day wee set forward, passing through diverse Rockey and shrubby heights, till afternoone, and then wee de∣clined to a sandy Valley: Where when come, what with the deepnesse of the Way, and the great heate reflexing upon the Sand, and from the Sand to our faces, wee were miserable turmoiled and scorched, especially I, who went alwayes on foot.

Having past this wearisome bottome, and before night marching along the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broake out upon us from holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrowes, till a contribution of sixt••ene Piasters was sent to them. The halfe of that night wee pitched our Tents, in a pastorable plaine, where some scatering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden Cups, carrying it in Wild Boars skins upon their naked backes. Two of which Savages our Cap∣taine hired, to guide us the next day to the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turkes, and a dayes jour∣ney distant one from another; being each of them strong∣ly guarded with Souldiers, and that for the relief of Cara∣vans, being the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Desarts.

Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest places of the Countrey, where we found ••ertaine profitable parts, planted with haire-cloath tents, and ouer-clad heere and there with spots of Sheepe and Goates: and yet were wee not there without the invasion

of stragling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the Captaine defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so at Ierusalem. Before night with great heate, and greater drouth, wee approached to the first Castle, where the Captaine thereof received us kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the quadrangled Tower. Here we had abundance of water (though I would rather have had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawne out of a Cisterne, and reposing safely upon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us, and our guard watched them.

Thence with a new Guide the sequell morne, we mar∣ched through a fiery faced plaine scorch'd with burning heate, and deepe rolling Sand, where diverse of our smallest Beasts perished, with sixe men and Women also in relieving their ouerwhelmed Asses. Long ere midday, having got to a hard-heigth, we pitched our tents, re∣posing under their shadowes till the evening, for wee were not able to indure the intollerable heate of the Sun; and so did wee likewise over-shadow our selves every mid-day. The vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced forward to the middle Castle, being led by our guide, and the pale Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, wee found neither that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captaine so humane as the other was here: wee were all offended with the scarcity of Water, the Captaine playing the Villaine, crossed us because the Caravanship were Christians: at last about midnight some 30 Arabs, came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backes. To whom wee payed for every Caraff, being an English quart, three Aspers of silver, ten Aspers going to a s••i••∣ling: Whereof my kinde Dutch-men drunke too much,

the Water being thick and of a brownish colour; and hot like pisse, offended their over-wained stomackes; which as I supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.

After mid-night, the Turkish Captaine, and our Cara∣van fell at variance about Water for our Beasts, who were ready to choake, and if they had not bin prevented with Souldiers on both sides, it had drawne us and them, to a ••inall mischiefe. The discord vnpacified, before the follow∣ing day, and within night, we imbraced our wilsome and fastidious way, journying through many dens & umbra∣gious caves, over-shaded with mouldring heights; in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in their Barba∣rous child-bed: having their bodies naked (the fore-face of their Wombe excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, and ouerspred with leaves a foote thick; whose new borne babes lying in their armes, were swadled with the same Leaves. And for all their sicknesse, which was ve∣ry small, they had none of our wives sugered sops, burnt wines, Venison pasties, delicate fare, and great feasting, nor a months lying in, and then Churched, putting their hus∣bands to in comparible charges. No, no, their food is one∣ly Bread, Garlick, Hearbs, and Water, and on the third or fourth day instead of Churching, they go with Bows and Arrows to the fields againe, hunting for spoils and boo∣ties from passing Caravans.

Advancing in our course, wee fell down from the hils in a long bottome of sand, above sixe miles in length: Wherein with sore wrestling against the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch our tents to over-shade us, three of our Germans, the two Barons, Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio, tumbled downe from their beasts backes starke dead, being suffo∣cated

with the vigorous Sunne, for it was in May, choa∣ked also with extream drowth, and the reflection of the burning sand; and besides their faire was growne mise∣rable, and their water worse, for they had never been acquainted with the like distresse before, though it was always my vade Mecum. Whereupon the Caravan s••ai∣ed and caused cast on their Corpes againe, on their owne beasts backes, and carried them to the side of a hard Hill, wee digged a hollow pit, and disroabing them of their Turkish cloathes, I did with my owne hands cast them all three one above an other, in that same hole, and covering the Corpes with moulding earth; the Souldiers helped mee to role heavy stones about their grave, to the end that the bloody Iackals should not devour their corpes; and to conclude this wofull and sorrowfull ac∣cident, the other Germans alive, bestowed on mee their dead friends Turkish garments, because of my love and di∣ligent care I ever did shew them; which one of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cayro.

Whence with divers assaults, and greater paines ac∣coasting the third Castle, with as great bewailing the losse of our friends, as wee had contentment in our owne safety, wee found this third Captaine both humane and hospitable: Who indeed himselfe in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a speciall care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captaine and us eight Franks before supper, with three roasted Hens and two Capons: This Turkish Captaine told us there were three inhabited Townes in these Desarts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on the Red Sea, ha∣ving a harbor and shipping, that trade both to Aegypt and Aethiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffs and Spices

which they transport from Mecha, and carry to Melinda, and the aforesaid places in Affricke: But now lest I sink in prolixitie, discoursing of sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverbe, Chi troppo abbraceo, nulla stringe, viz. That hee who would imbrace too much can hold nothing fast. I desist from this Journall proceeding, and punctuall discourse of my labori••us pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader (I having laid open more than halfe of the Wildernesse) may (like that learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foot on the Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraicture of his whole body thereby) easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequell sight of these Desartuo••s places, and therefore the rest, I will onely Epitomize in generall till mine arrivall at Saleack on the Confines of Aegypt.

Arabia is bounded on the West, with the Red Sea, and the Aegyptian Istmus: On the North with Canaan, Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian Gulfe, Chaldea, and Assyria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea: This Countrey lyeth from the East to the West, in length about 900, and some 3500 miles in compasse. The people generally are addicted to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanicall or Civill, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on foot, scelerate, and se∣ditious, boysterous in speech, of colour tawny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry: Not∣withstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare belly, their food also semblable, to their rude condition, and as savagiously tame (I protest) as the foure footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not val••∣rous, nor desperate in assaults without great advantage,

for a 100 Turks is truly esteemed to be sufficient enough to incounter 300 Arabs. Their language extendeth it selfe farre both in Asia and Affricke, in the former: through Pa∣lestine, Syria, Mesopotamia, Cilicia, euen to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Aegypt, Libya, and all the Kingdomes of Barbary even to Morocco.

This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandred forty yeares long, being fed with Man∣na from Heaven, and with water out of the driest rockes. In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of the two Ta∣bles was promulgated. The most part of these Desarts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage, being covered o∣ver with a dry, and thick Sand, which the wind trans∣porteth whither it listeth, in heates and mountaines, that often intercept and indanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here are few, so are their Cities, their dwel∣lings being sequestrate dennes and haire cloath Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth in Camels, Dromido∣ries, and Goats.

Before our arrivall in Saleack, wee passed the little Ist∣mus of ground which parteth Asia, and Affrica, disioy∣ning the Mediterranian and the red Seas: Divers have attempted to digge through this strait to make both Seas meete for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King of Aegypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch: Thirdly another Aegyptian King, who drew a ditch 100 foote bro••d, and thirty and odde miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was forced to cease, for feare of overflowing all the lower land, the red Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the or∣dinary plaine of Aegypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts, and fastidious, because of sand to passe over.

At Saleack we overtook a great Caravan of two thou∣sand people, & twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware of Aleppo, and came from Damascus, intending their Voyage for Cayro, whose company we subtilly left, and marched before them, for receiving of water by the way for our selves and beasts out of Cisterns, which we left dry behind us.

A Dromidore and Camell differ much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth, and length; save only their heads and feet, which are proportionated alike; and the difference is such that the Dromidory hath a quick and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80 miles in the day, if that his Rider can indure the pain. But the Camell is of a contrary disposition: For hee hath a most slow and lazie pace, removing the one foot from the other, as though hee were weighing his feet in a bal∣lance; neither can he goe faster although hee would: But hee is a great deale more tractable then the other: For when his Master loadeth him, hee falleth downe on his knees to the ground, and then riseth againe with his bur∣then, which will be marvellous great, sometimes 600 or 800 weight.

The Red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand, is not red as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas: The reason for which it hath beene called Mare rubrum, is only because of the banks, rushes, sands and reeds that grow by the shore side, which are na∣turally red. Some others have called it so, in respect of the Brooks which Moses turned to red blood, who miscon∣struing the true sense, took Seas for Rivers.

It is vulgarly termed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is 1600 miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous pas∣sage of the Israelites through it, and the drowning of

Pharaoh and his people: and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through all Eu∣rope and the Mediterran Coasts of Asia and Affricke: But this Navigation is now discontinued by the Portu∣gals, English and Dutch; which bring such Wares to their severall homes by the back side of Affricke: So that the Trafficke of Alexandria is almost decayed, and the Riches of the Venetians much diminished; so is the ver∣tue of the Spices much impaired by too much moy∣sture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.

This aforesaid Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses, being walled and fencible a∣gainst the Arabs, and defended also with a Castle, and ten troups of Horsmen being Ianizaries. Here we rested and refreshed our selves two nights, providing us fresh victu∣als for Grand Cayro, being foure days journey distant; and at our leaving of Saleack, I saluted this new seen Coun∣trey, with a greedy conceit of more curiosities.

The seventh Part.

NOw well met Egypt, so our fate allots, For we have appetite for thy Flesh-pots; But (ah!) the Season, is too hot to eat Of any viand, Kid, Mutton, or such meat:

Yet for thy Coff•• made of Coave seed, Wee'l kindly dr••••k it, feed upon thy bread And fat our selves, with thy best herbs and fruits For like to our faint stomacks, best besuits: Then mighty Kingdom, once the Royall Land, Where Kings were first erect'd, did longest stand; And letters Hyrogliphicks, Magick Art, Astrology, had first inventions part. For wonders, the Piramydes: Balm more good! The weeping Crocadile, Nylus swelling flood; Deaths funerall Mommeis; the Sea-horse bred At Damieta: the Sphynx with grandure cled: And where base Fortune, play'd the errant whoor, In making mean men great, and great men poor: In thee, I'le dive, though deep is thine old ground, And further far, then I can search or sound: Yet when men shoot, O all the mark do eie; But seldom touch't; enough if they come nie: Even so must I, for neerer ile not claim, The best director, may mistake his aime. But as the land is now, I hope I shall Cleer hardest doubts, and give content to all. Thence sought I Malta, Aetnaes burning flame, And stately Sicile, Gibels greatest fame. Whence passing Italy, the Alps I crost, And courting France, told Time, how I was tost.

DEparting from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which is our twelve miles, wee re-encountred with infinite Villages on both hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificiall Channels drawne from Nylus; and these

Fabricks, onely made up of Wood or Brick, being one or two stories high. The Captain, in divers parts at our mid-dayes reposing, was constrained to buy water from the Egyptians, to satisfie the Company: yea, and that same night, the first of f••ure, ere we came to Cayre, at the Vil∣lage of Bianstare, he payed five Sultans of gold for Wa∣tering all us and the Beasts, amounting to thirty five shil∣lings sterling.

The next day journying towards a goodly Town, na∣med Saliabsteck, wee travailed through a fruitfull plain, fraught full of Fruit Trees, and abounding in Wheate, Rie, and Barley, being new cut downe, May 14. For this was their first Harvest, the Land yielding twice a yeare Corns; and the latter, is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continuall Summer, and notwith∣standing of the burning heat, it produceth alwayes abun∣dance of Fruits and Herbs for all the Seasons of the yeare: So that the whole Kingdome is but a Garden, having e∣ver one Fruit ready to be plucked downe, and another comming forwards; or like to the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some are ripe, some are growing greene, others budding forth, and some still in the flourish: Even so is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Aegypt; which although the Country, be not often troubled with Rain, yet the ranke serene or dew of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kinds of growing things: between Saliab∣steck, and Cayre, being two days journey: Wee Franks, bad farwell to water, and drunk daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coava, which being taken hot, and is ever kept boy∣ling within Furnaces in earthen pots, it expelleth the cru∣dity of Fruits and Herbs so much there frequented.

Arriving at last in, this little World, the great Cair••,

and biding farewel to our Caravan, the three Germans and I lodged with one Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other four Frenchmen, going to their own Consul, a Marsellian born and there stayed. Here with this Venetian for three days, the Dutchmen and I had great chear, but they farre greater, a daily swallowing downe of strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I intreated them to forbear, but they would not be reque∣sted. The season being cruell hot, and their stomacks sur∣feited with burning Wine, upon the fourth day long ere noon, the three Dutchmen were all dead; and yet mee thought they had no sicknesse, the red of their faces stay∣ing pleasant, their eyes staring always on mine, and their tongues were perfit even to the last of their breath.

He who dyed l••st, and lived longest, was William Di∣lerganck, who left mee all his owne gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering me the keyes of their three cloak bags before the Consul, declared by his mouth that he left mee absolute heire, to intromet with all and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoons the treache∣rous Consul knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at Ierusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold, forg'd a reason to himselfe, and for his owne benefit, that hee would meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would be answerable to their friends for it, at his returne to Venice: Well, I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for them all three in a Copties Chappell, where I interred them: paying to the Aegyptian Christians for that eight foot of ground, ten Sultans of Gold, besides sixe Piasters for carrying their corps hither, being two miles in the City distant from the Consuls house. Whence, ere I had returned, the

Venetian Factor seased upon all, and shutting his gate up∣on my face, sent me out my own budget: Whereupon I addressed my selfe to the French Consul, Monsieur Beau∣clair, who kindly received me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged and oppressed by the other Consul; he straight sent for a Iewish Phisici∣an, his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day early we went all three, and their so lowers to the Beglerbeg, or Governour of the City: wee soon complained, and were as soone heard: the Venetian Con∣sul is sent for, and he commeth: where facing, the Judge and pleading both our best, (for there are no Lawyers in Turkie every man speaking for himselfe) the Bassaw with his Counsell upon sight of the keyes of their Cloakbags in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and not withstan∣ding favouring the Factor) immediatly determined that I should have the two parts of their moneys, with all their Ierusalem relicts, and Turkish clothes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is done, and irrevocable, up∣on which the Iewish Doctor, and I with two Ianizaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the Iew the keyes, the Cloakbags were opened, and the money be∣ing told, it came iust to 1424 Chickeens of gold besides certain rings and tablets: The Iew delivered me my part, which came to 942 Chidkeens, the rest went to the incon∣scionable Consul, with the half of the rings & tablets And packing up all the relicts, moneys, cloths, and Cloakbags I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beau∣clair, and my fellow Pilgrimes, were very glad that I had sped so wel, none of us al knowing what was in the cloak∣bags till they were viewed; & giving hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten pieces of gold to the Iew and Ianizaries,

I sup'd, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowfull for the losse of these gallant Gentlemen, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for familiarity and kindnesse they were the mirrours of noble minds, and vertuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to mee a Hell, and whose lives had beene my Paradice on earth. To whose memo∣ry and prayse, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their Heroicke dispositions, deserved at my hands.

But what shall I say, their time was come, which mor∣tality might sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deafe to all humane lamentati∣ons. Neither will I relye so much upon my owne wor∣thinesse, as to thinke the benefit of the procrastination of my Life, was by any merite of mine deserved, but that God so much the more, might show his incompre∣hensible goodnesse in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected accidents, and to tye my soule to bee thankfull for his mercies. For all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are either perfited or disanulled by his determination; and nothing wee pos∣sesse is properly our owne, or gotten by our own power, but given us onely through his goodnesse and munifi∣cence.

And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we enioy, and the excellent faculties we are indued withall; or what we can do, say, or thinke, is one∣ly raised, guided, and distributed, by Gods impenetrable Counsell, Will, and Providence: which although the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attri∣bution thereunto; yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such, that in it selfe, it proveth an e∣ternall

wisdome, and confoundeth the foolishnesse of the World.

This incorporate World of Grand Cairo, is the most admirable and greatest City, seen upon the earth, being thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous, but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plain, and in the heart of Egypt, kissing Nylus at some parts.

The City is divided in five Townes, first and formost, Cairo novo, the new Caire, which is the principall and chiefest place of all the other, lying in midst of the rest, having Walls and Ports, the circuit whereof is twenty two miles, containing all the chiefe Merchandise and Market places within it.

The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Caire, called for∣merly Cairo de Babylonia, or Babylon Aegyptiorum: for there were two Babylons, one in Assyria called now by the Turkes Bagdat, and the other is this that joyneth with the new Caire: It was also anciently called Mem∣phis, and was the furthest place Vlysses in his Travels vi∣sited, so well memorized by Homer: yet a Voyage of no such estimation as that Princely Poet accounted it; for his Travels were not answerable to the fifteenth part of mine:

The third Towne is Medin, joyning to the back∣side of the old Caire, toward the Piramides: The fourth is Boulake, running a great length down along and neer the River side, having three Market places of no small account: The fift and last, is the great Town of Caraf∣far, bending Southward, in the way of the Red Sea for many miles: All which are but as Suburbs to the new Caire, that of many smalls make up a Countrey, ra∣ther then a City: And yet all of them are contiguate

one with an other, either to the left or right hand, or to them both, with innumerable streets: The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak, to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deepe experience twenty eight English miles, and fourteene in breadth; for tryall whereof I tr••ad it one day on foote from Sun to Sunne, being guide•• and guarded with a riding Iani∣zarie, which for my bruised feet on the streets, was one of the ••orest dayes iourney that ever I had in my life.

The principall gates of the new Caire are Babeh Mam∣stek, looking toward the Wildernesse and the Red Sea: Bebzauillah toward Nylus, and Babell Eutuch toward the fields: The streetes are narrow, beeing all of them al∣most covered to save them from the parching heate with open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories high, composed either of mudde or brick, and platforme on the tops; whereon usuall in the night they use to sleep to imbrace the fresh and cooling ayre. Their Bazar or exchange beginneth at the gate of Mam∣steck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.

At the corners of chiefe streetes and market places, there are divers horses standing ready sadled and bridled, that for a small matter, or according to the way, a man may hire and ride where so he will, either to negotiate, or to view this spacious spred City, and change as ma∣ny horses as hee listeth, having the Masters which owne them to convey them for lesse or longer way, which is a great ease to weary passengers.

There is a great commerce here with exceeding ma∣ny nations; for by their concurring hither, it is won∣derfull peopled with infinite numbers: for the Coun∣trey aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe, Ho∣ney,

and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, be∣sides many other Commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffs of cloth of gold and silver, and the best Sattins, Damask, Taffaties, and Grograims that are made in the World are here.

The infinite populositie of which place, and the ex∣treame heat, is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: in so much, that at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have died in one day: Nay, the Citie is reputed to be in good health, if there die but one, or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare, I mean, when the sore encroaching pe∣stilence, which every third yeare useth to visit them, is ri••e here.

In this Town a Traveller may ever happily finde all these sorts of Christians, Italians, French, Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Ethiopians, Iacobines, Syrians, Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, S••lavoni∣ans, captivate Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and their owne Egyptian Cop∣ties; the number of which is thought to be beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turks, tawny Moores, white Moores, blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musil∣mans, Tartars, Persians, Indians, Sabunckes, Berdo∣anes, Iews, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian Sa∣razens. All which are Mahome••ans, and Idolatrous Pa∣gans.

From the great Palatiate Mansion, where the Begler∣beg or Vicegerent hath his constant Residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the Gardens, and Villages bordering on Nylus, and a great part

of the lower plains of Egypt. Their Laws heere and Hea∣thenish Religion, are Turkish and Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like to their birth and breeding, beastly and barbarous; being great Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abomi∣nations.

The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdome over, weare Rings of Gold or Silver, through the hol∣low of their noses, both ends of their mouthes, and in their under lips; hanging rich pearles and precious stones to them; wearing also about their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort cannot attaine unto, then they counterfeit their Betters with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not worthy to live unlesse they weare these badges.

They also use here as commonly they doe through all Turkey, the Women to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the like. They weare here linnen breeches and leather Bootes as the men doe, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gowns, wee would hardly know the one from the o∣ther. As for the Religion of the Copties or Egyptian Christians, they are Circumcised, after the Iudaicall manner, but not after the eight day, but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the Copties themselves say, they have their Religion from Prester Iehan, and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and the other.

They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other, thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and then on their breasts, & kissing them, the salutation is done.

They will not suffer any Images, nor Pictures to bee in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse, said in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia for the reall Body and Blood of Christ; Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints, and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is com∣monly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the like, and all the people Orientall.

The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and Astrologians, and are yet indu••d with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat slothfull, and given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable Companions; and no won∣der, the land being so plentifull, and their nature libi∣dinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate affections. Neither doe they live long, in regard of the great heat they indure. Aegypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attaine to threescore yeares of age.

In all this Land of Aegypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no running Well or Fountaine, save onely the River Nylus: Neither doe the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them, it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And yet for aboundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with

Aegypt; whereupon it was called in the time of the Ro∣mans, as well as Sycilia, Horreum populi Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of, are brought from Candy, Cyprus, & Greece. The defect being thus, these Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcor an, will neither plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accoun∣ting it a deadly sin to drink wine; but for Coffa, & Sherpet, composed Liquors, they drinke enough of.

As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein it grow∣eth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Ianizary, they would not suffer mee to enter, neither any Christian, & far lesse the Iewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this Balme was brought to confusion, they having the custome of it for certaine yeares.

The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe, which being thrice in the yeare in∣cised in the body and branches; it yieldeth a red Water that droppeth in earthen Vessels, which is the naturall Balsomo.

And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, where unto the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which dead bodies remayne always, unpurified; neither yield they a stinkingsmell: Whereof experiments are plentifull at this day by the whole Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought from thence, and

doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.

Now having viewed, and review'd this Microcosmus of the greater world, the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did hire a Ianizarie to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing beside or neere to to the banks of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller to the top, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part whereof, are five foote broad, or there abouts, and nine foot in length, being of pure Marble.

All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply Recived their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the beholder, may testifie their ex∣cessive greatnesse and height. The first and East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis, or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide having outwardly to ascend upon (though now for the most part demolish∣ed) three hundred fourescore and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foot high, and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in heigh, to the afore-said Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the broken degrees here and there; I was much ravished, to see such a large

foure squared plat-forme, all of one intire stone, which covered the head; each square extending to seventeene foot of my measure.

It is yet a great marvaile to mee, by what Engine, they could bring it up so safe to such a height: But as I conceive it, they behoved certainely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advance the Worke, otherwise the wit nor power of man, could never have done it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was strick∣en in admiration: For before we ascended, or came neare to this Pyramide, the top of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond; but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my opinion, it would have contained a hundred men.

In the bottome whereof wee found a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage, a foure angled Roome, wherein there was standing the Relicks of a huge and ancient Tombe, where belike hee that was the first founder of this Pyramide was in∣closed. From the top of this Pyramide, our Ianizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force, think∣ing thereby it should have falne to the ground; but as wee discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying upon the steps, scarce halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle Pyramide which a far off looked some-what higher then the other two, but when we came to the roote thereof, we found it not so, for the stone-work is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height, is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.

It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no de∣grees to ascend upon, neither hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of time, all worn and

demolished, yet an admirable worke to behold such Masse, and (as it werre) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The reason why they were first founded is by many ancient Authors so diversly coniectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were first called Pharaones.

Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops, who in this worke imploied 100000 men the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges of Garlicke, rootes, and Onions onely came to 1600 talents of silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It is recorded by Iosephus, and con∣jectured by many good witnesses, that the Brickes which the Children of Israel were inforced to make, where part∣ly imployed about the insides of these Pyramides, whose outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I for∣get the drift of that effeminate Cheops, who in end wan∣ting money did prostitute his daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father, desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one stone, of whom shee got so many, that with them shee builded the second Pyramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones, there are a num∣ber of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome in the time of her supreame domination.

Betwene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone, erected on a round Rock: it is of height (not reckoning the Columne) about 815 foote, and of circuite, 68. Plini gave it the name Sphin∣go, and reported much more of the bignesse, large∣nesse, and length of it: but howsoever he erred in his de∣scription, yet I resolve my selfe, it is of so great a quanti∣ty,

that the like thereof (being one intire piece) the world affordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the rarest Wonders: Some say, that anciently it was an Oracle, the which so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Aegyptians, of any thing by them de∣manded.

In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the bank of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the ingenious policie of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene in that River, whose body was twenty two foot long, and in compasse of the shoulders eight foot, who thus was slaine: This beast for foure yeares together kept alwayes about one place of the River, being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him laid waste: and ne∣verthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres; where here and there hee would lurke waiting for his prey till ten, for longer from water he could not stay.

This Venetian leaving his ship at Alexandrea, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consull my adversary of the great spoil done by this beast: and herewith generously hee undertooke to kill it, the Vice gerent licentiating him: Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner and a peece of Ordonance to Cayre.

The next day in the afternoone, hee being well hor∣sed, and accompanied with twenty Ianizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles accustomary place of forth∣comming: where straite there was an Asse slaine, and

hung upon two standing and a thwarting tree, with his open belly to the flood, and same twelve score paces therefro: Behinde this carkasse▪ about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and leveld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of powder a∣bout the touch-hole, and above it a night house to keepe the traine dry from the nights serene; having a cock fast∣ned thereto, and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner; wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head vayled with a wooden cover.

After this, and about midnight, the Horse-men re∣tired themselves two miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it, and setting his two formost feet on the Carrions middle, be∣gun to make good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving his time, drew the string, and giving fire, off went the peece, and shot the Croco∣dile in three parts: well, his deadly wounded, and making a horrible noise, the Gunner lay denned, and durst not stirre; meanwhile the beast striving to recover the water, tyred and lying close on his belly there hee died.

After the shot, the horse-men drew neare, and find∣ing the beast slain, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstrous creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall, which I saw du∣ring my stay in his house. For this piece of service, the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City 500 Sultans of Gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely offered him, and hee as freely refused.

Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low plaines of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually in the latter end of Iuly; and continueth to the end of August: Which furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke of the vulgar Aegyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine: What (saith he) doe you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke? And now because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about the flowing of Nylus, I will both show the manner and quality or course of its inundation, and thus. There is a dry pond called Machash digged neare unto the brinke of the river, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eigh∣teene Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the ditch, whereby they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shall have plenty or scarcity of things.

Now betwene the river and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell, it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the Pond, and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre certaine of the Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hun∣dred Ianizaries, and pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time of the Inundation, they make great Feasting, rare Solemnities, with Dan∣cing, Singing, toucking of Kettle drumms, sounding of Trumpets, and other ostentations of joy.

Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so it groweth also upon the Pillar stand∣ing in this pond, which pillar is marked from the roote to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote, a span, and

an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following, there shall be great Death, Pestilence, and Famine. And if it a∣mounteth to twelue Cubits, then the sequell yeare shall be indifferent. And if it swell to fifteene Brasses, then the next year shall be copious and abundant in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top eighteen Brasses, then all the Country of Aegypt, is in danger to be drowned and destroyed.

Now from the body of Nylus, there are about three thousand Channels drawne through the plain, on which passing Ditches, are all the Boroughs and Towns builded; and through which Channels the river spreads it selfe through all the Kingdome: Which when scoured of filth and Wormes, and the water become cleare, then every house openeth their Cisterne window and receiveth as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inun∣dation: Neyther doth ever the River flow any where a∣bove the bankes, for if it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.

All which Channels here, or there do make intercourse for their streames again, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fools hold the opinion, that it over∣floweth the whole face of the Land, then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall, their Cornes and Fruites: for the nature of violent streames do ever deface, transplant, and distroy all that they debord upon, leaving slime, mud and sand behind their brea∣ches, and therefore such inunding cannot be called che∣rishings.

There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen Wormes, and other monstrous things, which

oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Aequi∣noctiall Line, from montes Lunae, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Aethiopia interior, whence i•• bringeth the full growth downe into Aegypt, and in a place of the exterior Aethiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The full and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neer to it.

The infallible reason, why Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance, is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer, and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these Cynthian mountaines, the abundant Snow mel∣teth: from whence dissolving in streames; to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the matter dela∣biates: For benefit of which River the great Turke is in∣forced to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sul∣tans of Gold to Prester Iehan, least hee impede and with∣draw the course of Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Egypt to desolation: The ground and policy whereof, begun upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon the Aethio∣pians by Amurah, which hee was constrained to give over, under this pact, and for Nylus sake.

The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Aetos, to wit, Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights: It was called also Egyptus of a King so named, that communicated the same to it and to the Countrey.

Festus saith it was called Melos, and Plutarch tear∣med it Mela: Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is run∣ning or coulan•• in gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor or Sibor, to wit, Trouble, because of the great noyse

it bringeth with it to Egypt; and the same Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Egyptians wont to name it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Egypt, name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long c••urse.

This River maketh the Isle of Delta in Egypt; so like∣wise in Ethiopia, that Isle of Meroa so renowned. The ancient Authours, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo, Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others nine; and Pliny eleven. And some moderne Authours affirme it hath onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleage, dividing it selfe two leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two where∣of, are of these Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes, and as many branches drawne from its mayn body.

The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweet above all others in the World, and that proceedeth of the ex∣treame vigour of the Sun, beating continnually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer and Simple; as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.

And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great when all others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so increase, when even here, and at home the river of Rhine, hath the like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Town of Geneve, and so to the Mediterranian Sea: Their begin∣nings being both alike; from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.

Egypt was first inhabited by Mifraim, the sonne

of Chus from whom the Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misoriae. It was also named Ocea∣na, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Ostri∣ana from Osiris; and now Aegyptus from Aegyptus the sur∣name of Rameses, once a King of great puissance. It borders with Aethiopia, and the Confines of Nubiat on the South. On the North with the Sea Mediterrane: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta, and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great Lake Bouchiarah, & a dangerous Wilderness confining therewith, suppo∣sed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts, which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous A∣rabia, and a part of the Red Sea through which the people of Israel passed.

This Country was gouerned by Kings first, and lon∣gest of all other Nations: From Orisis (not reckoning his Regall Ancestors) in whose time Abraham went downe to Aegypt hee and his Successours, were all called Pha∣raoes; of whom Amasis, is onely worthy mention, who instituted such politicke Lawes to the ancient Egyptians, that he deserueth to be Catalogized, as founder of this Kingdome.

This Race continued till Cambises the second Persian Monarch, made Aegypt a member of his Empire: and so remained till Darius Nothus the sixt Persian King from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of themselues. But in the eighteene yeare of Nectanebos the seventh King thereafter, Aegypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Em∣perour of Persia.

In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King thereof, after his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the sonne of Lagi, from whom the Kings of Aegypt were

for a long time called Ptolomeis: of whom Queene Cleo∣patra was the last, after whose selfe murther, it was annex∣ed for many yeares to the Roman Empire, & next to the Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted, and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar, the third Caliph of Babylon.

Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of Ie∣rusalem; Noradin a Turkish King of Damascus sent Sa∣racon a valiant Warriour to aide them, who made him selfe absolute King of the whole Countrey; whose of∣spring succeeded (of whom Saladine was one, the glo∣rious conquerour of the East) till Melechsala, who was slaine by his owne souldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of the Suldans, as the Ianizaries are to the great Turke, who lately, Anno 1622, have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire, as the Mamaluks did in the Aegyptian.

They made of themselves Sultans, where by the Mama∣luke race continued from the year 1250, till the year 1517, wherein Tonembius, together with his predecessour Camp∣son Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the first; by whom Aegypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire, & so continueth as yet.

The length of his Kingdome, is foure hundred and fifty English miles, and two hundred broad: the principall seat whereof is the great Caire, being distant from Ierusa∣lem sixteen days journey, or Caravans journalls, amoun∣ting to 240 of our miles. Some hold that the space of earth, that lyeth betwene the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta was called the lower Aegypt▪ now called Delta, under the figure of a Greeke letter triangular.

The head of this great Delta, where Nylus divideth it selfe, was called Hoptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta it

selfe was called by the Romans Augustamia: Aegypt be∣sides the aforesaid names, it had divers Epithites of di∣vers Authours; for Appollodorus termed it the Religion of Melampedes, because of the fertility of it: And Plu∣tarch gave it the name Chimia, because of the holy cere∣monies of the Aegyptians in worshiping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignely remarked, de∣riving it from Cham, the sonne of Noah, so that some hold the opinion, that the Aegyptians had their originall from Misraim (for so was Aegypt called) the sonne of Chus, that proceeded from Cham Noahs sonne: The circuit of Del∣ta or the lower Aegypt is thought to be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.

In the time of the Ptolomeis the revenewes of this King∣dome were 12000 talents; so also in the time of the Ma∣maluks; but now through tyranicall government, and dis∣continuance of traffick through the red sea, the Turke receiveth no more than three millions yearly; one of the which is free to himselfe, the other two are distribu••nd to support the charge of his Vicegerent Bassaw, and presi∣diary souldiers, being 12000 Ianizaries, besides their thousand of Timariots, which keep Aegypt from the in∣cursions and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayre I stayed twelve dayes, and having bid farewell to Monsieur Beauclaire the Consul who courteously entertained me, the other foure French Pilgrimes and I imbarked at Boulaeque in a boate: And as we went downe the River, the chiefe Townes of note we saw where these, Salmona, Pharesone, Fova, & Ab∣dan. I remember our boate was double hooked with for∣ked pikes of iron round about the sides, for feare of the Crocodiles, who usually leape up on boates and will car∣ry the passenger away headlong in the streame: And yet these 〈◊〉〈◊〉 themselves are devouted by a water-Rat, of

whom they taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it downe, where the Rat for disdain com∣meth forth at the broad side of his belly, leaving the Cro∣codile dead. In these parts there is a stone called Aqui∣line, which hath the vertue to deliuer a woman from her paine in child birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to behold the rare beauty of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes Ellock; whose feathers being beauti∣fied with the diversity of rarest colours, yeeld, a farre off, to the beholder a delectable shew: having also this pro∣priety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they loose the beauty of their feathers by reason of the feare they conceive when they see a man. Vpon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over land with a com∣pany of Turkes to Alexandria, being 50 miles distant.

Alexandria is the second port in all Turkie: It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the great but now is greately decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with two Castles, which de∣fend both it selfe and also Porto vecchio: The fields about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious ayre, especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknes∣ses. In my staying here, I was advised by a Ragusan Con∣sul, to keepe my stomacke hot, to abstaine from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe, so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a smal diet, and was often too small against my will, by the meanes whereof (praised be God) I fell never sicke til my returne to France.

This City is mightily impoverished since the Tra∣ding of Spices that were brought through the red Sea, to Aegypt, and so over Land to Alezandria & its Sea-port: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all Christen∣dome; but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke, by the Portugals, English, and Flemmings, which maketh both Venice, and Alezandria fare the worse, for want of their former trafficke, and com∣merce in these Southerne parts: whence Venice grew the mother nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoyled thereof, and decayed by our Westerne Adventures, in a longer course for these Indian soyles.

This City was a place of great Merchandise, & in the Nycen Councell was ordayned to bee one of the foure Partiarchall seas, the other three are Antiochia, Ieru∣salem, and Constantinople. Here in Alexandria was that famous Library which Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000 volumes: It was hee that also caused the 72 Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against Alex∣andria, in the little Isle Pharos in the which for the com∣modity of saylers the aforesaide King builded a watch-towre of white Marble; being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the seven Wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramides, the Tombe Mausolaca, which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused built in honour of her husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Wals of Babylon, the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Sta∣t••e of Iupiter Olympicus at Elis in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent work-master in Gold and Ivory, being in height 60 Cubites.

Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for pas∣sage: great was the heate the French men and I indured

in somuch that in the day time, we did nought but in a low roome, besprinkled the water upon our selves, and all the night lie on the top or platforme of the house, to have the ayre; where at lest bidding good-night to our Greekish Host, wee imbarked in a Sclavonian ship, be∣longing to Ragusa; and so set our faces North for Chri∣stendom; in which ship I was kindly used, and Christian∣like enterteined both for victuals and passage. The Winds somewhat at the beginning favouring us, wee weighed Anchors, and set forward to Sea: leaving ••he Coast of Cyrene Westward from us, which lieth between Aegypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdome of Tun∣nis.

The chief cities therein are Cyrene, Arsin••a, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenian Countrey taketh the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politanat. The Soyle is barren of Waters and Fruites, the people rude and theft••ous: yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits as Calimachus the Poet, Aristippus the Phylosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Symon of Cyrene, whom the Iewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse.

In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Aegypt, stood the Oracle of Iupiter Hammon, in the great Wildernesse confining with Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed he saw for foure dayes 〈◊〉〈◊〉; neither Man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arri∣••ed, the flattering Priests, professed him to be the sonne of Iupiter: which afterwards (being hurt with an Arrow) ••ee found false, saying; Omnes ne vocant filium Iovis, sed 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West from Cyrene ••ll the Kingdomes of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algier, Fesse, ••nd a part of Morocco even to the Gibilterre, or fretum

Hercule••m, under a generall name now called Barbary, and hardly can be distinguished by the barbarous Moores.

In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome, there dyed seventeene of our Mariners, and all our foure French Pilgrimes, two of them being gray haired, and 60 yeares of age, which bred no small griefe, and feare to us all, thinking that they had died of the plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came.

The French men had onely left unspent among them all, threescore and nine Chickeens of Gold, which the Master of the Ship medled with, and because they were Papists, and they and I alwayes adverce to other, I could not claime it. Their dead Corpes were cast over Board, in a boundlesse Grave to feed the fishes, and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life; So likewise in our passage, wee were five sundry times assailed by the Cursares and Pirats of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevai∣ling, for wee were well provided with good Munition, and skilfull, Martiall, and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.

Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes, did car∣ry twenty eight peeces of Ordonance, two of them bra∣zen; and fourescore strong and strenuous Saylers, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runnagates, then any violent defence wee made: for they durst never set on us, unlesse they had beene three together; and yet we little re∣regarded them, in respect of our long reaching Ordo∣nance, and expert gunners: in these circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, wee should see flockes of flying fishes scudding upon the curling waves, so long as their finnes be wet, which grow from their

backe, as feathered wings do from Fowles: But when they grow drie, they are forced to fall downe and wet them agayne and then fly along. Their flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin is in per∣suing them, who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them; whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels, but greater headed and shouldered. Meane∣while in these our Courses were we seven weeks crossed with Northernly Windes, ever Tackling and boarding from the Affricke Coasts, to the Carminian shoare, in all which time wee saw no Land, except the boisterous billows of glassie Neptune: And as Ovid said, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et aer, viz.

Nothing but Waves I view, whereships do floate And dangers lye: huge Whales do tumbling play; Above my head, Heavens star-imbroidred coate, Whose vault containes, two eyes for night and day. Far from the Main, or any Marine Coast, Twixt Borean blasts, and billowes we are tost. If Ovid, in that strait Ionean deep, Was tost so hard, much more am I on Seas Of larger bounds; where staffe and Compasse Keepe Their strict observance, yet in this unease Of tackling Boards, we so the way make short, That still our course, drawes neerer to the Port. Between the streame, and silver spangled skie, Wee rolling climbe, then hurling fall beneath; Our way is Serpent like, in Meeds which lye, That bowes the Grasse, but never makes no path: But fitter like young maides, and youthes together, Run here and there, alwhere, and none know whether.

Our way we Know, and yet unknown to other, And whiles misknown to us, before we di••e; The hand, and compasse, that govern the Ruther Do often erre: although the Pilots strive With Card and plot; their reckonings sometimes fall, Too narrow, short, too high, too wide, too small. To descon this, remark when they set land, Some this, some that, do guesse, this Hill, that Cape; For many houres, their skill in suspence stand Tearming, this sore, that head-land, points the Map: Which when mistook, this forg'd excuse goes cleer, O such! and such a land, it first did peer. In all which strife, stress'd Sailers have the pain By drudging, pulling, hayling, standing to it In cold and rain, both dry a••d wet, they strain Themselves to toil, none else but they must do it: We passengers behold, with belching throats Only their taske atchiev'd in quivering Boats, Then since but aire and water I perceive, One's hot and moist, the other moist and cold; It's earth that's cold and dry, I longing crave, And fire that's dry and hot, I wishing would; Then thundring Aeole, from thy seven rigg'd Towres, Soon wast us o're, forth from these glassie Bowres. My wish is come, I set each bulging sail For pride begins to swell, between two sheets; She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tail, And lays her side, close where the weather beats; Both prone and puppe, do answer so the Helme, The Steersman sings, no grief his joy can whelme. By night our watch we set by, day our sight, And thirle our Sails, if Pirats but appeare; We rest resolv'd, it's force makes Cowards fight,

Though none more dare, then they that have most feare, It's courage makes us rash, and wisdome cold, Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lion bold. Now we look out for Land, now we see Mal••! That little famous Isle, though sterrile soile; Where we'le some Bay, or Creek seek to assault Whence Anchorage, and saf••ty Ships recoile: Now, now, let An••hor fall, we're in the Road, Safely arriv'd, by providence of God. This done, as time avouch'd, I kindly bad, My Consorts all adiew, then came ashoare, Where I such plenty of great favours had, That scarce the like, I ever found before. These white cross'd Knights, with their eight pointed cros∣ses, Imbrac'd my sight, with it, my toils, and tosses: So ends my Verse, and so I'le straight disclose The Isle, the Folks, their Manners, in plain Prose.

The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh water that was spent and therefore con∣strayned to beare into this Isle: Which was my sole de∣sire, wishing rather to Land here, to see the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our Ancors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the shoare, I ••ad farwell to all the Company, and in •• singular respect to my generous Captaine, who would have nothing for my victuals and trnasportation from Aegypt; except a few relicts of Ierusalem: The boat be∣ing launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.

This City is divided in two, the old and the new Malta,

from which the Isle taketh the name; it is a large and po∣pulous place, and strongly fortified with invincible walls, and two impregnable Castles, St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; S. Michaell, being distant from both: Heere the great Mas∣ter, or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard made much of me for Ierusalems sake; so did also a number of these gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of mine, being a souldier there na∣med William Douglas, who afterward for his long & good service at sea was solemnly Knighted, & made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene since as plausibly regarded by the Maltazes, as Monsieur Creichton his worth in learning & excellent memory, rest admired in Italy, but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and depen∣dant friends of the house of Mantua; for whose losse & ac∣cidentall death they still heavily bemoan; acknowledging that the race of that princely stock, by Gods Judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.

Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts 28. 1, 2. where the Viper leaped on Pauls hand; I saw also the Greeke wherein hee was shipwracked: This Island may properly be termed the Fort of Christendome, yet a bar∣ren place, and of no great boundes, for their cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sicilia: but it yeel∣deth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, O∣renges, Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina, from thence to the Rhodes, and now exposed to this rocky Isle. They are pertinacious foes to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making war and incursions against them, to their power: being

strengthned also with many souldiers, and their Cap∣taines are surnamed Knights of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome it is a most honourable Or∣der: They are not permitted to marry, the most part of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being intangled to wife and children, they might bee the more resolute to adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they were mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath been when their ancestours lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.

This Isle was given in possession to these Knights of St. Iohn, by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly expelled from the Rhodes by Soly∣man the magnificent, Anno 1522. And afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all utterly to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado and assailed Malta, Anno 1565. when Valetta was great master, who so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated, and forced to returne.

This Island is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as the clymat might afford▪ It con∣taineth besides the City, forty seven Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants whereof, are of the Affrican complection, tauny and Sun-burnt: and their language semblable to the Barbarian-speech, without any great difference, both tongues being a cor∣rupt Arrabick: And not unlike therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from the anci∣ent; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the ancient, then the Italian is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are ex∣treamely

bent, in all their actions, either to good or evill, wanting fortitude of minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours of their passions, but as the head strong-tide, so their dispositions turne in the superfluous excesse of affections.

They follow the Roman Church, though ignorant of the way, and their women bee lovely faire, going head-covered with black vailes, and much inclined to licentiousnesse; their beauties being borrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time or ac∣cidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the beatuy and lovely proportion of the body, should dreferred before the ef∣feminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy: since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire and rich wardrope. In this Town of Malta there are many Turkish & Moorish slaves, very rudely treated, yet not answerable to that cruelty the slavish Chri∣stians indure upon their Gallies in Barhary or Turkie: T••e description of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relati∣ons of my second Travels; and after twelve daies staying here, limbarked in a Frigar with other passengers, and ar∣rived at Cicily in the South-east corner of Sicilia, being threescore miles distant.

From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracu∣sa, Irancountred by the way, in a clifty Greek close by the sea-side, a Moorish Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away

labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and be∣ing hard by them, I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me, with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my long tra∣ced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I came: where when freed, I hast∣ned to the next Watch-tower marine set, and there told the Centinell, how a Moorish Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how hardly I es∣caped their hands: where upon he making a fire on the top of the tower, and from him all the Watch-tow∣ers along, gave presently warning to the countey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages came downe on horse and foot, and well armed, and demanding me seriously of the truth, I brought them with all possible celerity to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them, wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last they were all seazed up∣on, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines, and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence they were carried to Syracusa: I went also along with them, where by the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me for discovering them: from Syracusa, (being condemned to the galleyes) upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36 in number.

They gone, and I reposing here, the Governer of that place, for this peece of service, and my travels sake did feast mee three dayes, and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge you,

that best can judge on discretion, This City is situate on a Promontory, that butteth in the Sea, having but one en∣try, & was once the capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyrannies & late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place. Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruits, & delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.

From this place, over-trafing other fifty miles to Ca∣tagna, situate at Aetnaes foot; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now I cease to discourse any further of this Island, till my returne from Affrick, be∣ing my second voyage: For true it is, double experience, deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my fol∣lowing order, the Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.

From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat loa∣ded with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the Lavorean lists, upon the twelfth day, wee landed at Naples. Where being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees for my safe arrivall in Christendome and meeting there with the Earle of Bothwell, and Captaine George Hepburne, I embraced the way to Rome, being sixe score and ten miles distance: where I stole one nights lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pa∣via, Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the comenda∣tion of which Cities rest revolv'd in these following Verses.

Illustrat at Saenas, patriae facundia Lingua, Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives;

Liberaluca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus: Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem: Genua habet portum, merces{que} domesque superbas: Excellit studiis, facundo Bononia cunctis, Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque butirum, Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis; Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra placentia caris: Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis, Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum, Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.

Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke might have beene the mirrour of nobility, I kept my way through Piemont or Pedemontano, the si∣ster of Lombardy, and second Garden of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountaine of Mont Cola di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes: I found on its top that it reserveth alwayes Gradinian mist, for a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow each one a Spears length from another to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which stoopes if hee faile, hee is lost for ever.

After I had traversed this difficult passage; I had two dayes journey in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria, over which Hanibal had so much adoe to conduct his Army to Italy; making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine When it was said of him, Viam aut inveniet Anni∣ball, aut faciet: Leaving these Mountaines behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance situate on the Mediterran Sea; and passing the Townes Anti••o and Cana, to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set upon mee in a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which

had dogged me hither from Niece: Where having ex∣treamely given mee a fearefull chase, for a long league, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well, in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women, and three young Childeren, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.

After I had sup'd and going to bed, in came these afore∣said Villaines, accompained with my Host; where, when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threat∣ning me with stroaks, and consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for hee was their Companion, and to second their intention his wife made fast the lower door. Whereat being moo∣ved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe, and opening my Sacket; said; Now Chri∣stian Gentlemen, I know you are distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stran∣ger, newly come from Ierusalem, and the sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for the preservati∣on of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands rob mee of my turmoyled life▪ ha∣ving nought, wherefore you should, were a lamentable thing to do.

This spoken, and much more, they never seatched me, nor touched my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded vpon my forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I had no money, and therefore confirme my life, which for the former

respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Where∣upon packing up my Relicks againe; they called for Wine, and drunke divers times to mee, and after a long spent conference, their supper making ready, they dis∣missed me for my bed: Whither, when led by my Ho∣stesse, I privily made the doore fast suspecting still a sud∣daine death: Well they sup'd, and were joviall, & at the first Cocke, went forth to the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.

All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host confessed, that onely hee had saved my life; for swearing himselfe of their former sight; but said he, certainely they are Murderers. Leaving him with dis∣sembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned that my Host was suspected to bee a Cansort with these and many more Murderers: well afterwards I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed, and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, kepeth a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous Wood free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a long Voyage, is ey∣ther in greatest danger, or else cast away entring the Roade and Heaven from whence she came, even so was I cast in the most eminent perill, that I had in all my Tra∣vailes, being on the Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places) entring the Towne wherin I was born.

Having given humble thankes and lofty prayers to the Almighty for my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to Montpiellier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight kindly intreated mee for eight dayes, and

highly rewarded mee with Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris: whence continu∣ing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine, I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Iohanne, the Pyrhenei mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the river Ortes, I visited Gascony and Bearne; and from them the Cities of Burde∣aux and Rochell: and arriving at Paris whence I first be∣ganne my Voyage; I also there ended my first, paine∣full, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence shortly there∣after visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King Iames, and Queene Anne of everblessed memories; and this present Maiesty King CHARLES, certaine rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought from Iordan and Ierusalem. Where afterward within a yeare, upon some distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.

The end of the first Booke of my first Travailes.

Notes

• Concerning sinistrous censures.
• The reaso•• why the Au∣thor begunne his Travells.
• A Dialogue betweene the Author and Himselfe▪
• A comparison betweene Lon¦don and Paris.
• The Antiquity of Rome.
• Romes seven Hills.
• Sain•• Kathe∣rines observa∣tion.
• Meaning of Sodomy.
• The Pilgrim•• dinner at the Popes table.
• Romes Anti∣quities.
• Famous Au∣thors.
• The brazen I∣m••ge of Saint Peter.
• Superstition of Papists.
• Pardons for pennies.
• My escape from Rome.
• The first plantation of Italy.
• The King∣dome of Naples.
• The foure Papall Terri∣tories.
• The Duke of Florence his Patrimony.
• Piemont and Genuaes Juris∣dictions.
• Italy lyeth ••s the right arm, reaching forth from the maine body of Europe.
• Ignor••nt de∣votion.
• Ro••••es Ava∣••ice.
• Damnable illusions of Loretta.
• A Simonaicall vision.
• A Papisticall Dream'd of Oration.
• The shameful opinion of the Papist•• concer∣ning Lor••tta.
• Foure times transported.
• •• confirmat•••• of the Popes.
• A fleshly false spr••ng miracle
• A Capouchi•• Frier conju∣ring the Div••l.
• The Virgin Mary divide•• in a thousand Ladies.
• Ancona.
• A gray Fri•••• burned for villanous Leachering.
• The chiefe Venetian Or∣dinary.
• The territo∣ries of Venice.
• The first plan∣tation of Ve∣nic••.
• The Veneti•••••• are ••prung of the 〈◊〉〈◊〉
• Mr▪ Arthur 〈…〉〈…〉 f••om Venice.
• The Earle of Glencarne.
• A comparison of Iewes and Iesuites.
• The antiquity of the Istrians
• Iustinopoli, decayed.
• The Socks live under the House of Austria.
• Croatia.
• Zara no••••▪
• Ignorance and Sloth.
• Dal••
• Mount St. Angelo.
• A wofull Batt••ll.
• A Monster borne in Le∣••••••▪
• Demetri••••▪
• Cursola.
• Ragusa.
• Slavonia.
• 4000 Spani∣ards starved to death.
• Scanderberg.
• The Ile of Corfu.
• Two strong Castles.
• ••••••thaca where ••lysses was ••orne.
• A counsaile to fight.
• A notable de∣liv••rance.
• Cephalonia of old Ithaca.
• Zante.
• Christian Generalls▪
• ••he battell ••epanto.
• Morea i•• Greece.
• The 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of M••rea.
• Arcadia.
• The rapt of Hellen.
• Greek Cham∣pions.
• The Begler∣beg of Greece
• Athens.
• Serigo.
• A Priest slain in a Bordell.
• The antiqui∣ty of Candy.
• The Rivers of Candy.
• The old and famous City of Lanarke.
• A happy de∣liverance.
• Cruell Can∣diots.
• Invinsibl•• Can••a.
• A Religious comfort.
• A place of refuge.
• Cloysters are safeguards.
• The pleasant vally of Suda.
• Mount Ida.
• Dedal••s La∣••orinth.
• Historia•• erro••t••.
• The City of Candy.
• Distances from Candy.
• ••reets turnd ••riticks.
• ••n English ••unnagate.
• Smith relie∣ved from long bonda
• Drunken ••ri∣ers.
• Milo.
• Zephano.
• Parir.
• Latona recei∣ved in Delos.
• The Ile of Pathmos.
• Ovid, de 〈◊〉〈◊〉:
• V••lcans birth▪
• Nixia.
• The Isle of Lango.
• The dang•• of Turkish Pi••ats.
• A fearfull shipwrack.
• A happy deli∣verance from shipwrack.
• Homers Se∣puleher.
• The faire Dames of Sio.
• The Fortre••••e of Sio.
• The heads of 800 Floren∣tines cut off.
• The Isle of Mytelene.
• A comparison of Isles.
• The plentiful∣nesse of Orknay and Zetland.
• False aspers••∣on upon Scot••land.
• Cartain re∣plyes.
• The Isle An∣drosia.
• Two Turkish Galleots;
• The Isle Ni∣groponti.
• Aristotles death.
• Salonica▪
• Thess••ly.
• The 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Greece
• Foure Pat••archs in the Greekish Church.
• False testimo∣nies of vagabonding Greeks.
• Pernass••▪
• Thebes.
• Geographicall ••rrours.
• Tenedos▪
• The Tombes of Trojans.
• Priamus Pa∣lace.
• A descriptio•• of Troy.
• The Authou•• portraiture.
• Homer and Virgil upon Troy.
• Rash judge∣ment.
• Sestos and Abydos.
• Christian slaves fled from Constan∣tinople.
• The sorrow of Xerxes.
• Mount Athos.
• The Sea Helli∣spont.
• A h••rsh arri∣vall.
• Byzanti•••• re-edified by Constantine.
• Foure Empe∣rours one af∣ter another distressed.
• Contrarieties of fortune.
• Hyppodrome.
• A French Palliard.
• The Dalma∣tian Widdow relieved.
• Pestilence and Earth-quakes.
• The Christi∣an Ambassa∣dours at Pe∣••ab.
• Pompeys Pillar.
• The Duke of Moldavia turn'd Turk.
• Times of Turkish pray∣ers.
• The Turks are circumci∣sed.
• The Turkish Church-men.
• Babylon recovered by the Persians.
• Mahomet•• birth.
• Mahomet pos∣sessed with the falling ••cknesse.
• The Law of Mahomet.
• Mahomets Tombe.
• The first title of Popes.
• Romish Ido∣latry.
• Turkish Pilgrims.
• Mahomet hath broke his pro∣mise.
• Oppression of Turks.
• The Turks Iustice.
• Turkish Mar∣iages.
• The Empe∣rours Concu∣bines.
• A hundred Concubines changed every moneth.
• The Turks Paradice,
• The Turks Lent.
• The Turks opinion of Hell.
• The numbe•• of all the Em¦perours in East & West.
• The begin∣ning of the Turks.
• The Turks complexion.
• The Turks are Tartarians
• Libidinous Turks.
• Turkes are no Schollars.
• The Great Turks yeerly rent.
• Certain rea∣sons.
• Parcels of ground for Timariots.
• Policies of Turks.
• Beglerb••gs, or Bashaws.
• ••oble Per∣sians,
• Babylon regai∣ned by the Persians.
• Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.
• The City of Smirna.
• Wealth is the ••other of ••vice.
• Ephesus de∣cayed.
• Dianaes Temple burnt.
• The Isle Lan∣go, or Coos.
• Excellent Swimmers.
• The Isle of Rhodes.
• The Idoll Collossus.
• Inundation of waters.
• Rhodes take•• by Solyman.
• Souldiers should be re∣garded and rewarded.
• Mausol••os Tombe.
• Pamphyli•• and Lycia.
• The descrip∣tion of Cyprus
• The six Ci∣ties of Cyprus.
• Trohodos a huge Hill in Cyprus.
• Comparison of Isles.
• Cyprus replan∣ted.
• The Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cy∣prus.
• The Floren∣tines attemp∣ted to conquer Cyprus.
• A Sea combat
• Christian Runnagates.
• The Citie of Tripolie.
• 〈◊〉〈◊〉,
• The Cedars of Liba••us.
• The Prince of Liba••••••.
• N••••torians.
• Ioshaes to••be.
• The Bi••••••p of Eden•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Li∣ba••••••.
• The Nestorian Paradic••.
• The Georgian•• Par••dice.
• The tree Mouf••••••.
• The ••belfain Paradice.
• Violence of seas & waters.
• The Turco∣mans opinion of God and the Devill,
• Antiochi•••••• the first Chri∣stians.
• Frustrate of Babylon.
• Mesopotamia.
• Beershack.
• Mesopotamia.
• A notable obedience.
• The Bassaw of Aleppo be∣headed.
• Flying pigeon with letters.
• Syria.
• A Caravan of Armenians.
• Pagan flattery
• Turks are cal∣led Musilmans.
• Damascus is called Sba••s∣ma.
• The antiqui∣ties of Da∣mascus.
• The ••orces of the Bassaes of Damascus.
• Savage Ara∣bian Robbers.
• A dangerous way.
• Arabia Pe••••ea▪
• The Town of Sarepta.
• Iacobs Bridge▪
• Canaan great∣ly changed.
• The Holy Land.
• Cana in Galilee.
• Caesarea Phi∣lippi.
• A counter∣bu••••et for Lo∣retta.
• Libidinous leachery.
• A villanous plot.
• A treacherou•• Guide.
• Tyrus is called Sur.
• The ruines of Tyrus.
• Sampsons Pillar.
• A corrupted Caravan.
• Samaria.
• The Savage Arabian King
• Exaction of tributes.
• Two Arabian Kings.
• Iacobs Well.
• The Sea-port Towns of the Holy Land.
• A dreadfull conflict.
• The Town of Rhama.
• Beersheba.
• •• grievous anger.
• A joyful har∣••ony.
• A dear nights Supper.
• A foolish Ce∣••emony.
• Ierusalems antiquity.
• The foure hils of Ierusalem.
• The triumph of Titus.
• The over throwers of Ierusalem.
• The Garriso of Ierusalem.
• A notable ob∣servation.
• The Iewish Kings.
• Dukes of Iewry.
• The Machabe∣an Princes.
• Christian Kings of Ie∣rusalem.
• The igno∣rance of Tra∣vellers.
• A superstiti∣ous ceremony▪
• A flattering beggery.
• Calphas Lodg∣ing.
• Pilats judge∣ment Hall.
• Abrahams faith.
• Mount Sinay.
• The Temple of Salomon thrice builded and destroyed.
• Herods the Idumean Tem∣ple.
• Selim Selymans Temple.
• A Voyage to Iordan.
• A fearfull danger.
• The length of Sodo••s Lake.
• The doubt∣fulnes of Ior∣dans ending.
• Wrong infor∣mations made.
• The River Iordan.
• A Turpentine Rod brought from Iordan, and given to King Iames.
• The Pilgrims three severall habits in half an houre.
• Two sorts of rare fruits.
• Elizeus Foun∣tain.
• Where Chri•••• fasted forty days▪
• Dreadful dan∣ger in descen∣ding the Qua∣rantaram.
• Saint Ierom•• Abbey.
• Our tributes for the Holy Grave.
• The Holy Grave.
• The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.
• The beauty of Mount Calvary.
• Two famous Sepulchres.
• Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.
• Seven religi••ous Families.
• An abomina∣ble Idolatry.
• Damnable & intolerable superstition.
• The Knights of the Holy Grave.
• Certain 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Monu∣ments.
• 〈◊〉〈◊〉▪
• The burial•• place of the Kings and Queens of Israel.
• The lying v••∣lany of a Ro∣gish Greek.
• Saint Iohn the Baptists Cave.
• Chri••••s Crib at Bethleem.
• Admirable dust.
• Solomons Fish ponds.
• The Town of Bethleem.
• King Davids Palace.
• Acaldema.
• Ponto N••hemia.
• Brook Cedron.
• Lazarus Tombe in ••y∣thania.
• Mount Olive•• and the places of note there∣of.
• Sacred and singular Tombes.
• The Arms of Ierusalem.
• King Iames his foure Crowns.
• Of English 〈◊〉〈◊〉.
• The discourse of the Seale is in the page following.
• Greedy and ••••attering Friers.
• The Authors good night to Ierusalem.
• Kind Iews to us Fra••ks.
• The ancient City of Gaza.
• Burning Sands.
• Wild Arabs selling water.
• ••rievous and desert••ous travelling.
• Savage wo∣men having their Child∣bed in Caves.
• The dea••h three German Gentlemen.
• The third Castle of the Desarts.
• The bounds of the three Arabians.
• The scurrile Arabian De∣sarts.
• The nature of Camels & Dromidores.
• Indian Spices much weak∣ned.
• Two seasons of riping grain in Egypt
• The last three Germans death in Cayre.
• A f••vourable Turkish iudg••ment.
• Gods provi∣dent mercies.
• The great Ci¦ty of Gr••nd Cayre.
• The length of great Cayre & the bounds thereof.
• Divers Nati∣ons residing in C••yre.
• The Egyptian decorements.
• The Egytian Christians.
• The 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Religion.
• The nature of the Egypt••a•• Moores.
• The Garden of Balsamo.
• The Pyramide of Aegypt.
• The greatest Pyramide of the three.
• The charges of the greatest Pyramide.
• A resolute Venetian Mer∣chant.
• The killing of a great Cro∣codile.
• The true knowledge of the flowing Nylus.
• Many Schol∣lers mistaken about Nylus.
• The reason of the flowing of Nylus.
• The Isle of Delta.
• The confines of Egypt.
• The alteration of Egypt.
• The revenues of Egypt.
• The Town of Alexandria.
• The four Pa∣triarchal Seas
• The fabulou•• Country of Cyrene.
• Four•• French Pilgrimes dead.
• Flying fish.
• A joyfull arri∣vall in Malta,
• The Isle of Malta.
• An invincible victory.
• The nature of the Mal∣tezes.
• A Moorish Brigantine.
• An happy ar∣rivall.
• The Ligurian Alpe.
• A happy e∣scape from murder.
• A guard of Horsmen for a dangerous Wood.