Klinike, or The diet of the diseased· Divided into three bookes. VVherein is set downe at length the whole matter and nature of diet for those in health, but especially for the sicke; the aire, and other elements; meat and drinke, with divers other things; various controversies concerning this subject are discussed: besides many pleasant practicall and historicall relations, both of the authours owne and other mens, &c. as by the argument of each booke, the contents of the chapters, and a large table, may easily appeare. Colellected [sic] as well out of the writings of ancient philosophers, Greeke, Latine, and Arabian, and other moderne writers; as out of divers other authours. Newly published by Iames Hart, Doctor in Physicke.

CHAP. XXVI.

Of wine: the various and severall sorts, with the right use, and for whom it is most fitting.

IT may be my former discourse of water was to some unwelcome, who would more willing∣ly, perhaps, heare of some more noble liquor; and therefore now from the water-pale to the wine-pot. Now although this same sub∣ject of wines alone might well fill up a lar∣ger discourse than this in hand; yet will I content my selfe with such things as shall be of greatest use for the health of mankind. And because al wines are not alike, differing in divers respects, it will therefore be for us very usefull to set downe the severall differences.* 1.1 Wines therefore differ not a little one from another, and that in these respects following. The first difference then is desumed from the age; for some wine is called Mustum,* 1.2 or new wine; and others of longer continuance, one, two or three yeers, &c. New wine, before it be well purged from the lees, howsoever it may seeme to please the palat, by reason of a sweet pleasant and de∣lectable taste; yet is it most dangerous for the health of the body. a 1.3 for by reason of the thicknesse, grossenesse; and (as some call it) a tartareous substance, it is very windy, and apt to ingender all manner of obstructions, wind cholicke, and the stone it selfe, &c. But among all such wines, the white and Rhenish doe least harme; and that in re∣gard they make the body soluble, and so all corruption is evacuated, and so in regard of their short abode within the body, they are least of all others offensive unto it. New wine pressed out of tart and sowre grapes is of all others the worst. The b 1.4 Poet Ovid could well tell whe∣ther new or old wine were better, when he wishes to drinke wine of

the continuance of certaine Consuls; that is, so many yeeres old. And as the new wines are not to be allowed for ordinary use; no more are the very old wines better to be liked of: for then they become farre hotter, sharper, and sometimes bitter also. As for the certaine deter∣minate time orange, when wine might safeliest be drunke, no man can certainely determine, for some lasted twenty, some more, some fewer yeeres.* 1.5 Cicero at a supper with Damasippus was served with wine of 40. yeeres old. But the Emperor Caligula was presented with wine of 160: yeere old. Now the nature of such wines was this, that they were not to be drunke, unlesse mastered with much water. Our wines now a daies differ much from those in frequent use among the Ancients, the Romanes especially: for few of our ordinary wines will continue good for yeeres, as theirs did; yea a yeere, and sometimes lesse, will put them to the period of their longest endurance. Although I deny not but some of our sackes, and some such strong wines will continue good farre beyond this prefixed period.* 1.6 The second difference is taken from the substance; some being thinne, perspituous and very small, needing no admixture of water, called for this cause 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 such as grow plentifully about Paris, Rochell, and divers other places; as along the river of Rhene, in Thuringia, Misnia, &c. And yet Cardan thought no such wine grew in those regions. Others againe were of a thicker, and grosser substance, and may therefore be called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or bearing much water, as being of farre greater force and strength than the for∣mer.* 1.7 The third difference may be taken from the colour; some being white in colour, some pale yellow, some sadder in colour, or of a high golden yellow colour; some againe of a blackish intense red, and others of a pale red colour. The yellow wines are the hottest, the red lesse; and the white least of all. And it is to bee observed, that mingling grapes of divers colours, the wine becommeth of a mixt colour: as the white and red grape mingled together maketh a claret; and the more red grapes be in the mixture, the higher coloured is this claret; and the more white grapes, the paler coloured it is; approaching both to the colour and quality of white wine; as is to bee seene in that wine called from the colour of peach flowre, couleur du pesche. The fourth difference is taken from the taste,* 1.8 sweet, sowre, sharpe or bitter. The sweet are most nourishing, such as are commonly the high coloured red wine, and some sweet sacks brought unto vs from Greece, and other parts: such as are our malmesey, muscadine, browne-bastard, Canary, and some others of that colour; and our high coloured red wines, cal∣led vin de Graves. Some againe are of tarter taste, as most of our white and claret. Galen was of opinion, there were no sweet white wines; howbeit divers Provinces of France can now witnesse the contrary. And I doubt not but the Wine-brewers of the City of London have so well profited in their profession, that they are able to furnish any with as sweet wine of any colour as any other place whatsoever. The fift difference is desumed from the smell,* 1.9 which in wine is also not a little to be regarded, and the wines of best smell are also ordinarily the hot∣test. Among our ordinary wines, that which smelleth like the raspe, as the French say, sent la fram boose, is esteemed the daintiest. But here

my meaning is not of any artificiall smell procured by the wit and invention of the vintner, no more than that which already hath bin spoken concerning the substance, colour and taste. Another difference may yet be desumed from the soile, and the naturall temper of the aire where such wines grow. And thus in one and the same country are so many severall sorts of wine to be seene, differing in goodnesse one from another; and yet far more those of one countrey from those of another. And thus we may apparently perceive what a great difference there is in the wines of that one kingdome of France. The wine of Orleance, al∣though farre to the North, yet doth it exceed in goodnesse many others more to the South. And we see severall countries produce divers and severall sorts of wine, and some againe produce none at all: and that partly by the unfitnesse and coldnesse of the soile and climate;* 1.10 and partly in some places, by meanes of the neglect and ill husbandry, or ignorance of the inhabitants. And there is yet another difference de∣sumed from the faculties:* 1.11 for the thicke red coloured wine tending to blacke, especially the sweetest, are of all others aptest to nourish and fatten the body. But whosoever useth them much, let him take heed of obstructions, the stone, the dropsie, &c. Such wines grow plente∣ously in Gascony, and from thence conveyed to their chiefe citie Bur∣deoux, and so to divers places of the Christian world. All sweet wines loosen the belly more than any other kind. The other sweet wines,* 1.12 such as we named heretofore, are hotter than the former, and yeeld some∣what to them in this alimentary facultie; and are rather of the antient, and married people, yet sparingly to be used; than of the yonger sort. In France alone many severall sorts of wine,* 1.13 differing not a little in strength one from another. The wines of Orleance are of prime note for goodnesse; as also the wines of Aniou and adjacent places are in no small esteeme: and those wines in so great request at the French court;* 1.14 called vin de Coussy and D'Hay, are very wholesome and dainty wines. But the wine about Paris, Rochell, and many places of Xaintonge are but poore small wines in comparison of the former. Againe, in Gascoigne; but especially in Provence, Languedoc, and the south parts of that King∣dome are many strong and generous wines, equalling, if not exceeding divers wines of Italy it selfe. But it is now more than time, wee come to the temperature of wine, the knowledge whereof doth not a little make for our purpose.

Concerning the temperature of wine, there hath been some contro∣versie among the learned, which we will leave to the schooles,* 1.15 & brief∣ly declare that which we conceive to bee most profitable for our pur∣pose. Wine then of all sorts, whatsoever, is undoubtedly hot,* 1.16 howbe∣it some more and some lesse; and new wine is at first colder, and in time acquireth a greater heat; insomuch that must or new wine is by Galen accounted cold; which must be understood comparatively▪ ha∣ving respect to that it is afterwards. Now this heat acquired by 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ebullution is of a great latitude and extent, according to the sever∣all natures and ages of wines. Thinne small wines, especially white,* 1.17 participate of least heat: old strong wines are very hot: that which is betwixt both these extremes, is also of a meane heat betwixt both.

But now concerning the second quality,* 1.18 and joined with this first, whe∣ther it be moist or dry, is in like manner controverted. In a word, I thinke it to be actually moist, howbeit potentially dry, as we speake in the schooles. For howsoever it moisten, as is the nature of all liquors; yet hath it a certaine faculty of drying up superfluous moisture; as we see come to passe in many other liquors extracted out of hot simple, vegetables or mineralls: and yet this drying faculty differeth not a little according to the strength.* 1.19 It is moreover to bee observed, that our wines much differ from the wines used in antient times, in regard of their strength. With us our new wines are hotter than our old, which by little and little, their heat decaying, grow dead: Vappescunt. Contrariwise, the wines of antient times being new, that is, not ex∣ceeding five yeeres age, were not so hot as those of greater age, which perhaps had atteined to ten or twelve yeeres. The longer they were kept,* 1.20 the greater heat they contracted, which was not naturall; but procured by art: for they were accustomed to mingle with their new wine, pitch, rosen, brimston, plaster, ashes, &c; to adde smell and quicknesse to their wines. Some used also to smoake their wines: and for this end, had certain places in their houses built for this same pur∣pose. Others againe mingled therewith sea-water fetcht superstitious∣ly from the deepest Ocean. By so many poisons cause we wine to please our palats (saith Pliny) and yet wonder at the woe they procure us, yet inclining still to vice. Let Londoners, and others that frequent the city much, looke about them, and moderate their insatiable wine-bibbing humor, lest withall they drinke downe some of this stuffe, whereof Pliny here complaines. Sure I am our Vintners are as cunning, and witty in invention for their owne profit and commodity, as ever were any of the antients. But concerning the hot facultie of wines, it may perhaps be replied, how commeth it to passe, if all wines be hot and dry, it produceth cold and moist diseases in the braine:* 1.21 I answer in a word, it commeth nor so to passe properly by reason of these faculties; but by accident, these exhalations being by the braine quickly converted into such a substance. And that this is true may by this appeare, that the excesse of drinking of the strongest wines are aptest to ingender such diseases.

* 1.22Now this noble creature moderately used, is a most soveraine meanes to restore and renew our decaied and dead spirits, and to preserve the naturall heat of the body: and for the great affinity it hath with the na∣ture of man, and sympathy with the heart, it is as it were in a moment conveied thither; and so produceth that famous effect of d 1.23 cheereful∣nesse, so often in holy writ ascribed unto it. But the use of this so no∣ble a creature is not indifferently to be permitted to every age, per∣son and complexion. Plato would not have children to drinke any wine before the 22. yeere of their age. e 1.24 Aristotle forbiddeth wine to nur∣ses and children. ^f Hippocrates permitteth the use of it to some caco∣chymicall dispositions, and to women of a soft and foggy, or spongi∣ous flesh. g 1.25 Galen setteth downe what constitutions it best befitteth. To those of mature and ripe yeeres he permitteth wine, but well wa∣tered; but to hot and dry constitutions, hee forbiddeth it altogether,

water better befitting the state of such bodies,* 1.26 to whom assenteth also Hippocrates. As for old age, especially if very phlegmaticke by consti∣tution, vvine is not to be denied them; it being for them a wholesome milke, and withall a convenient food for the preserving and cherish∣ing of the radicall moisture, and innate balsame of their bodies.

But from hence ariseth some doubt, in that I allow wine to old men; My doubt may seeme so much the stranger, in that it seemeth this o∣pinion hath alwayes gone currant without any controll. But there is * 1.27 a late writer, who hath contradicted this opinion, and would have them when they grow in yeeres, to use wine well diluted with water, and afterwards vvhen they are novv atteined to decrepit old age, to give them onely hony-vvater, or boiled vvater to drinke. But I thinke fevv that read this, but vvill thinke this too rigid; and so am I of their mind. His reason is because (saith hee) hot strong wine drunke in abundance hath need of a like proportion of naturall heat to over∣come it, otherwise it sowreth in the stomacke, oppresserh naturall heat, ingendreth crudities, and proveth the cause of many noisome dis∣eases. But by his good leave, although a learned man, yet he delivers his opinion too lavishly and without limitation. Wine in old age mo∣derately taken cheereth the spirits, furthereth concoction, and overcō∣meth crudities. The chiefe hurt befalleth old age by the too liberall use of strong hot vvines, in my opinion, is by way of ex••ccation, their bodies howsoever replenished with an accidentall and excrementiti∣ous moisture; yet the naturall Crasis and constitution of their bodies get, inclining to siccity. The excesse in the use of any sort of wine I allow not of. But I see no sound reason, why the moderate use of our Muscadines, sweet Canary sackes; and sweet nourishing red wines may not safely and to good purpose be allowed this age, which besides the former benefits may likewise by their mild fumes and vapors so irrigate the braine, that it may procure them quiet and comfortable sleepe to this age so acceptable. And by this moderate use I see not but it may likewise communicate a gentle warmth to all the parts of the body; although I am not of opinion this is the only use, as this Au∣thor seemeth to allege.

And in the use of wine among the antients this is yet to be observed, that they were either to drinke this or water, there being no other in ordinary use among them; and therfore, wheras they allowed youth at the age of 22. to drinke wine, this is not a precept for us to practise, be∣ing furnished with so fit and wholesome drink, and so appropriated and fitted for this climat, and our complexions; and the which may safely to any age or complexion be exhibited; and being in our owne power to make it weaker or stronger, there is no danger in the use of our ale or beere. And besides, we must also withall consider that in the hot seasons of the yeere both wine, and other strong drinkes must more spa∣ringly be used; but in colder seasons we may be bolder. Now againe,* 1.28 among the antients wine was either drunke pure of it selfe without a∣ny mixture; or else diluted and mingled with water, and is used also in this our age. In antient times some added the water to the wine, and some againe wine to the water. Water was, and is used to be added

unto wine, to allay and qualifie the heat and fumes thereof, and is more frequent in those countries, where wine is their ordinary drinke. This mixture differeth according to the diversitie of the natures, of the parties drinking, the wine drunke, together with the severall times of drinking: all which points are learnedly and largely set downe by g 1.29 a famous Italian Physitian; and which were too long for mee here to insist upon. But this I must advertise in briefe, that as young people, especi∣ally, hot and cholericke constitutions, ought not to drinke wine; so if they doe at any time drinke thereof, they ought to delute, or mingle it with a greater quantity of water than others: and the like I wish to be understood of the heat of Sommer, when as both smaller drinke, and wine more deluted is best. Some in stead of ordinary spring water, use rose water, and a little sugar, which is not amisse: and the like may be practised with Strawberry, Sorrell, Succory, or Endive water. But to determine the quantity of water, which differeth according to cir∣cumstances, is very hard: but the best will be for people to consider of that proverbiall speech, Every man is either a foole, or a Physitian. The meaning is, a man should observe what best befitteth the state of his owne body, and so accommodate all things accordingly. Many in hot countries where the wine groweth, sometimes use wine so sparingly, that they adde but a little quantity of wine to a great quantity of water; it may be not the fifth or sixth part. But with us, where wine is not our naturall and ordinary drinke,* 1.30 this deluting, or mixture of wine and wa∣ter is not so frequent; except sometimes in Sommer, where often, and most commonly sugar is also added thereunto, with some Borage flo∣wers, and a sprig of Rosemary, which are not out of purpose; espe∣cially, if the wine be any thing tart, or sowrish.

* 1.31And by the way I must here say something concerning the use of su∣gar with wines: It is a common custome thorow this kingdome, to adde sugar to all wine indifferently sweet or sowre, or whatsoever sort. I doe not deny, but sometimes, to helpe a tart taste, or to inhibit the hot fumes of a vaporous or strong sacke, apt to flie up into the braines, a little su∣gar helpeth well: but to use it indifferently, with all sorts of wines, and without any consideration of circumstances whatsoever (which is the ordinary and common custome) and that merely for wantonnesse, and to satisfie their lustfull desires, I hold it not convenient. Our neigh∣bouring Nations, who abound in all sorts of wine, and most somewhat tartish in taste, yet never use this addition of sugar. And therefore, as I advertised already, so wish I all, especially our women (aptest in such ca∣ses to exceed) to use a moderation in the use of sugar. As for wines thus to be mingled with water, they must be indifferent strong, and withal, of an indifferent thinne substance. Wines of a grosse and thick substance, are not thus to be mingled with water; but rather moderately and spa∣ringly drunke without any addition. And as for our Rhenish and small white wines, they need farre lesse water than other stronger. h 1.32 Some wish that certaine houres before the wine be drunke, water be mingled therewith, that by this meanes there may be a more perfect mixture of the one with the other. There is to this purpose a certaine antient speech recorded: Vinum lymphatum cito potatum generat lepram, Wine

mingled with water, suddenly drunke, ingendreth leprosie. But concerning wine this shall suffice. Of the use of wine in the sicke, in what diseases usefull, and how to be used, hereafter in the diet of the diseased.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Divers differences of Wines

  1 From the age.
• * 1.2

  Mustum or new wine.
• a 1.3

  Gal. lib de cibis bor••, & mali succi.
• b 1.4

  Qui properant noua musta bibant, mihi fun∣dat avitum, Consulibus priscis condita testa me∣rum. Ovid 3. de amo∣re.
• * 1.5

  Very old wine.
• * 1.6

  2 Difference from the substance.
• * 1.7

  3 Difference from the colour.
• * 1.8

  4 Difference from the taste.
• * 1.9

  5 Difference from the smell.
• * 1.10

  6 Difference from 〈◊〉〈◊〉 soile & naturall tem∣per of the aire.
• * 1.11

  7 Difference from the faculties: thicke red wines.
• * 1.12

  Strong sweet wines of a yellow colour.
• * 1.13

  French wines of di∣vers sorts.
• * 1.14

  Small wines.
• * 1.15

  Or 〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.16

  〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.17

  〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.18

  Wine is dry in the second quantity.
• * 1.19

  Ou•• wines differ much from the wines of the antients.
• * 1.20

  •• Caeterorum vinorum tanta cura fuit medica∣minu, ut ciner•• apud quosdam, fe•• gypso a∣l••b•• quibus diximus mo∣du instaurentur, &c. Qui & marinam aquā ejusdem rei gratia ex alto peti ••ubent, &c. Pix in Italia ad vasa v••••o condienda maxi∣me probatur Brytia, &c Tot benefici••s piacere cogitur; & miramur noxia esse in vitium in∣clinantes. Plin. lib. 19. cap. 20.
• * 1.21

  Co•••• diseases produ∣ced b•• the use of wine accidentally.
• * 1.22

  Vertues of wine mo∣derately used.
• d 1.23

  Psalme 103. Iu••g. 9 Ecclesiast. 31, &c.
• e 1.24

  7 Politic. Lib. de salubri diata.
• g 1.25

  3 de sanit. tuenda.
• * 1.26

  What person it be•••• befitteth.
• * 1.27

  ••am vero 〈◊〉〈◊〉 larvitr•• si ultius quam 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ca••oris au e••d gratia, vinum abundanter, meracum praecipue in∣dulgere Quanto e∣nim vinum calidius est per se, tanto ma••ore ven••ris ac viscerum omuium c•••• ore opusest ut superetur: aliaqui a mino••i acessic, cru∣dam{que} succum auget, unde & calorem natu∣ralem suffocat, & mor∣bos innumeros ••arit, ac mortem properat. Quare vinum esse lac senum non valde pro∣ho•• censeo, potius se∣nibus sensim esse dan∣dum aiturius, us{que} dum in extremo senio consti∣tutis toto vino detrac∣to de ur pro eo mul••a, aut dec••ct: aqua: sa∣tius enim est p••rmittere catori n••turali sensim venire au na••ura••em in∣teri••um, quam vine obruere, & ••enectam facere mis rabi••torem, & breviorem. Va••••••. de sacr•• philos. cap. 20.
• * 1.28

  Wine either drunk•• pure of it selfe or mingled with water.
• g 1.29

  Mercur. variar lect. libr. 7.
• * 1.30

  How we use to dilute or mingle our wine.
• * 1.31

  Of the use of Sugar with wine.
• h 1.32

  Arnoldus de villa nova tractatu de vinis.