The principal nauigations, voyages, traffiques and discoueries of the English nation. [vols. 1-3] made by sea or ouer-land, to the remote and farthest distant quarters of the earth, at any time within the compasse of these 1600. yeres: deuided into three seuerall volumes, according to the positions of the regions, whereunto they were directed. The first volume containeth the worthy discoueries, &c. of the English ... The second volume comprehendeth the principall nauigations ... to the south and south-east parts of the world ... By Richard Hakluyt preacher, and sometime student of Christ-Church in Oxford.

A notable discourse of M. Iohn Chilton, touching the people, maners, mines, cities, riches, forces, and other memorable things of New Spaine, and other prouinces in the West Indies, seene and noted by himselfe in the time of his trauels, continued in those parts, the space of seuenteene or eighteene yeeres.

IN the yeere of our Lord 1561, in the moneth of Iuly, I Iohn Chilton went out of this city of London into Spaine, where I remained for the space of se∣uen yeres, & from thence I sailed into Noua Hispania, and so trauelled there, and by the South sea, vnto Peru, the space of seuenteene or eighteene yeeres: and after that time expired, I returned into Spaine, and so in the yere 1586 in the moneth of Iuly, I arriued at the foresayd city of London; where perusing the notes which I had taken in the time of my trauell in those yeeres, I haue set downe as fol∣loweth.

In the yeere 1568,* 1.1 in the moneth of March, being desirous to see the world, I embarked my selfe in the bay of Cadiz in Andaluzia,* 1.2 in a shippe bound for the Isles of the Canaries, where she tooke in her lading, & set forth from thence for the voyage, in the moneth of Iune, the same yere. Within a moneth after, we fell with the Isle of S. Domingo, and from thence directly to Noua Hispania, and came into the port of S. Iohn de Vllua,* 1.3 which is a litle Island standing in the sea, a∣bout two miles from the land, where the king mainteineth about 50 souldiers, and captaines, that keepe the forts, and about 150 negroes, who all the yeere long are occupied in carying of stones for building, & other vses, and to helpe to make fast the ships that come in there, with their cables. There are built two bulwarkes at ech ende of a wall, that standeth likewise in the sayde Island, where the shippes vse to ride, made fast to the sayd wall with their cables, so neere, that a man may leape ashore. From this port I iourneyed by land to a towne called Vera Cruz,* 1.4 standing by a

riuers side, where all the faccours of the Spanish merchants dwell, which receiue the goods of such ships as come thither, and also lade the same with such treasure and merchandize as they re∣turne backe into Spaine. They are in number about foure hundred, who onely remaine there, du∣ring the time that the Spanish fleet dischargeth, and is soden againe, which is from the end of Au∣gust to the beginning of April following. And then for the vnwholesomnesse of the place they de∣part thence sixteene leagues further vp within the countrey, to a towne called Xalapa,* 1.5 a very healthfull soile. There is neuer any woman deliuered of childe in this port of Vera Cruz: for so soone as they perceiue themselues conceiued with child, they get them into the countrey, to auoid the perill of the infected aire, although they vse euery morning to driue thorow the towne aboue two thousand head of cattell, to take away the ill vapours of the earth. From Xalapa seuen leagues I came to another place, named Perota,* 1.6 wherein are certaine houses builded of straw, called by the name of ventas, the inhabitants whereof are Spaniards, who accustome to harbour such trauellers as are occasioned to iourney that way vp into the land. It standeth in a great wood of Pine and Cedar trees, the soile being very colde, by reason of store of snow which lieth on the mountaines there all the yere long. There are in that place an infinite number of deere, of bignesse like vnto great mules, hauing also hornes of great length. From Perota nine leagues, I came to the Fuentes of Ozumba,* 1.7 which suentes are springs of water issuing out of certeine rocks into the midst of the high wayes, where likewise are certaine ranges, and houses, for the vses before mentioned. Eight leagues off from this place I came to the city of the Angels, so called by that name of the Spanyards, which inhabit there to the number of a thousand, besides a great number of Indians. This city standeth in very plaine fields, hauing neere adioyning to it many sumptuous cities, as namely the city of Tlaxcalla, a city of two hundred thousand Indians, tributaries to the king, although he exacteth no other tribute of them then a handfull of wheat a piece, which amounteth to thirteene thousand hanueges yeerely, as hath appeared by the kings books of account. And the reason why he contenteth himselfe with this tribute, onely for them, is, because they were the occasion that he tooke the city of Mexico, with whom the Tlaxcallians had warre at the same time when the Spanyards came into the countrey. The gouernour of this city is a Spanyard, called among them The Alcalde mayor, who administreth chiefest causes of iustice both vnto the Christians and Indians, referring smaller and lighter vices, as drunkennesse and such like, to the iudgement and discretion of such of the Indians as are chosen euery yeere to rule amongst them, called by the name of Alcaldes. These Indians from foureteene yeeres olde vpwards, pay vnto the king for their yerely tribute one ounce of siluer, and an hannege of maiz, which is valued among them commonly at twelue reals of plate. The widowes among them pay halfe of this. The Indians both of this city, and of the rest, lying about Mexico, goe clothed with man••les of linnen cloth made of cotton wooll, painted thorowent with works of diuers and fine colours. It is distant from the city of the Angels foure leagues to the Northward, & foure∣teene from Mexico.* 1.8 There is another city a league from it, called Checula, consisting of more then sixty thousand Indians, tributaries, and there dwell not aboue twelue Spanyards there. From it, about two leagues, there is another, called Acassingo, of aboue fifty thousand Indians, and about eight or twelue Spanyards, which standeth at the foot of the Vulcan of Mexico,* 1.9 on the East side. There are besides these, three other great cities, the one named Tepiaca, a very fa∣mous city, Waxazingo, and Tichamachalcho: all these in times past belonged to the kingdome of Tlaxcalla: and from these cities they bring most of their Cochinilla into Spaine.* 1.10 The distance from the city of the Angels, to the city of Mexico is twenty leagues.* 1.11 This city of Mexico is the city of greatest fame in all the Indies, hauing goodly and costly houses in it, builded all of lime and stone, and seuen streets in length, and seuen in breadth, with riuers turning thorow euery second street, by which they bring their prouision in canoas. It is situated at the foot of certaine hilles, which con••eine in compasse by estimation aboue twenty leagues, compassing the s••yd city on the one side, and a lake which is fourteene leagues about on the other side. Upon which lake there are built many notable and sumptuous cities, as the city of Tes••uco, where the Spanyards built sire frigats, at that time when they conquered Mexico, and where also Fernando Cortes made his abode fiue or six moneths in curing of the sicknesse of his people, which they had taken at their comming into the countrey. There dwell in this city about sixty thousand Indians, which pay tribute to the king. In this city the sayd Fernando built the finest church that euer was built in the Indies, the name whereof is S. Peters.

* 1.12After I had continued two yeeres in this city, being desirous to see further the countreys, I imployed that which I had, and tooke my voyage towards the prouinces of California, in the which was discouered a certeine countrey, by a Biscaine, whose name was Diego de Guiara,

and called it after the name of his countrey, New Biscay,* 1.13 where I solde my merchandise for ex∣change of siluer, for there were there certaine rich mines discouered by the aforesayd Biskaine. Going from Mexico I directed my voyage somewhat toward the Southwest, to certaine mines, called Tamascaltepec,* 1.14 and so trauelled forward the space of twenty dayes thorow desert places vnhabited, till I came to the valley of S. Bartholomew,* 1.15 which ioyneth to the prouince of New Biscay. In all these places the Indians for the most part go naked, and are wilde people. Their common armour is bowes and arrowes: they vse to eate vp such Christians as they come by. From hence departing, I came to another prouince named Xalisco, and from thence to the port of Nauidad,* 1.16 which is 120 leagues from Mexico, in which port arriue alwayes in the moneth of A∣pril, all the ships that come out of the South sea from China, and the Philippinas, and there they lay their merchandise ashore. The most part whereof is mantles made of Cotton wooll, Waxe, and fine platters gilded, made of earth, and much golde.

The next Summer following, being in the yeere 1570 (which was the first yeere that the Popes Buls were brought into the Indies) I vndertooke another voyage towards the prouince of Sonsonate, which is in the kingdome of Guatimala, whither I caried diuers merchandize of Spaine, all by land on mules backs. The way thitherward from Mexico is to the city of the Angels, and from thence to another city of Christians 80 leagues off, called Guaxaca,* 1.17 in which there dwelt about 50 Spanyards, and many India••s. All the Indians of this prouince pay their tribute in mantles of Cotton wooll, and Cochinilla, whereof there groweth abundance thorow∣out this countrey. Neere to this place there lieth a port in the South sea, called Aguatulco,* 1.18 in the which there dwell not aboue three or foure Spanyards, with certaine Negroes, which the king mainteineth there: in which place Sir Francis Drake arriued in the yeere 1579, in the mo∣neth of April, where I lost with his being there aboue a thousand duckets, which he tooke away, with much other goods of other merchants of Mexico from one Francisco Gomes Rangifa, fac∣tour there for all the Spanish merchants that then traded in the South sea: for from this port they vse to imbarke all their goods that goe for Peru, and to the kingdome of Honduras. From Guaxaca I came to a towne named Nixapa,* 1.19 which standeth vpon certaine very high hilles in the prouince of Sapotecas,* 1.20 wherein inhabit about the number of twenty Spanyards, by the King of Spaines commandement, to keepe that country in peace; for the Indians are very rebellious: and for this purpose hee bestoweth on them the townes & cities that be within that prouince. From hence I went to a city called Tecoantepec,* 1.21 which is the farthest towne to the Eastward in all Noua Hispania, which sometime did belong to the Marques de Valle, and because it is a very fit port, standing in the South sea, the king of Spaine, vpon a rebellion made by the sayd Marques against him, tooke it from him, and doth now possesse it as his owne. Heere in the yeere 1572 I saw a piece of ordinance of brasse, called a Demy culuerin, which came out of a ship called the Ie∣sus of Lubec, which captaine Hawkins left in S. Iohn de Vllua, being in fight with the Spany∣ards in the yeere 1568; which piece they afterwards caried 100 leagues by land ouer mighty mountaines to the sayd city, to be embarked there for the Philippinas. Leauing Tecoantepec, I went still along by the South sea about 150 leagues in the desolate prouince of Soconusco,* 1.22 in which prouince there groweth cacao, which the Christians cary from thence into Noua Hispa∣nia, for that it will not grow in any colde countrey. The Indians of this countrey pay the king their tribute in cacao, giuing him foure hundred cargas, and euery carga is 24000 almonds, which carga is woorth in Mexico thirty pieces of reals of plate. They are men of great riches, and withall very proud: and in all this prouince thorowout, there dwell not twenty Christians. I trauelled thorow another prouince called Suchetepec; and thence to the prouince of Guasaca∣pan:* 1.23 in both which prouinces are very few people, the biggest towne therein hauing not aboue two hundred Indians. The chiefest merchandise there, is cacao. Hence I went to the city of Guatimala,* 1.24 which is the chiefe city of all this kingdome: in this city doe inhabit about 80 Spany∣ards: and here the king hath his gouernors, & councell, to whom all the people of the kingdome re∣paire for iustice. This city standeth from the coast of the South sea 14 leagues within the land, and is very rich, by reason of the golde that they fetch out of the coast of Veragua. From this ci∣ty to the Eastward 60 leagues lieth the prouince Sonsonate,* 1.25 where I solde the merchandize I caried out of Noua Hispania. The chiefest city of this prouince is called S. Saluador,* 1.26 which lieth 7 leagues from the coast of the South sea, and hath a port lying by the sea coast, called Acaxutla,* 1.27 where the ships arriue with the merchandize they bring from Noua Hispania; and from thence lade backe againe the cacao: there dwell heere to the number of threescore Spanyards. From Sonsonate I trauelled to Nicoia,* 1.28 which is in the kingdome of Nicaragua, in which port the king buildeth all the shipping that trauell out of the Indies to the Malucos. I went forward from

thence to Costa rica, where the Indians both men and women go all naked, and the land lieth be∣tweene Panama, and the kingdome of Guatimala: and for that the Indians there liue as warri∣ers, I durst not passe by land, so that here in a towne called S. Saluador I bestowed that which I caried in annile (which is a kinde of thing to die blew withall) which I caried with me to the port of Cauallos,* 1.29 lying in the kingdome of Honduras, which port is a mighty huge gulfe, and at the comming in on the one side of it there lieth a towne of little force without ordinance or any o∣ther strength, hauing in it houses of straw: at which towne the Spanyards vse yeerely in the mo∣neth of August to vnlade foure ships which come out of Spaine laden with rich merchandise, and receiue in heere againe their lading of a kinde of merchandise called Annile and Cochinilla (al∣though it be not of such value as that of Noua Hispania) and siluer of the mines of Tomaangua, and golde of Nicaragua, and hides, and Salsa perilla, the best in all the Indies: all which merchan∣dize they returne, and depart from thence alwayes in the moneth of April following, taking their course by the Island of Iamaica, in which Island there dwell on the West side of it certeine Spa∣nyards of no great number. From this place they go to the cape of S. Anthony, which is the vt∣termost part of the Westward of the Island of Cuba, and from thence to Hauana lying hard by,* 1.30 which is the chiefest port that the king of Spaine hath in all the countreys of the Indies, and of greatest importance: for all the ships, both from Peru, Hunduras, Porto rico, S. Domingo, Ia∣maica, and all other places in his Indies, arriue there in their returne to Spaine, for that in this port they take in victuals and water, and the most part of their lading: here they meet from all the foresayd places alwayes in the beginning of May by the kings commandement: at the entrance of this port it is so narrow, that there can scarse come in two ships together, although it be aboue sixe fadome deepe in the narrowest place of it. In the North side of the comming in there stand∣eth a tower, in which there watcheth euery day a man to descrie the sailes of ships which hee can see on the sea; and as many as he discouereth, so many banners he setteth vpon the tower, that the people of the towne (which standeth within the port about a mile from the tower) may vnder∣stand thereof. Under this tower there lieth a sandy shore, where men may easily go aland; and by the tower there runneth a hill along by the waters side, which easily with small store of ordinance subdueth the towne and port. The port within is so large that there may easily ride a thousand saile of ships without anker or cable, for no winde is able to hurt them. There inhabit within the towne of Hauana about three hundred Spanyards,* 1.31 and about threescore souldiers, which the king mainteineth there for the keeping of a certeine castle which hee hath of late erected, which hath planted in it about twelue pieces of small ordinance, and is compassed round with a small ditch, wherethorow at their pleasure they may let in the sea. About two leagues from Hauana there li∣eth another towne called Wanabacoa, in which there is dwelling about an hundred Indians, and from this place 60 leagues there lieth another towne named Bahama, situate on the North side of the Island. The chiefest city of this Island of Cuba (which is aboue 200 leagues in length) is also called Sant Iago de Cuba, where dwelleth a bishop & about two hundred Spanyards; which towne standeth on the South side of the Island about 100 leagues from Hauana. All the trade of this Island is cattell,* 1.32 which they kill onely for the hides that are brought thence into Spaine: for which end the Spanyards mainteine there many negroes to kil their cattell, and foster a great number of hogs, which being killed, and cut into small pieces, they dry in the Sun, and so make it prouision for the ships which come for Spaine.

Hauing remained in this Island two moneths, I tooke shipping in a frigat, and went ouer to Nombre de Dios,* 1.33 and from thence by land to Panama, which standeth vpon the South sea. From Nombre de Dios to Panama is 17 leagues distance:* 1.34 from which towne there runneth a riuer which is called the riuer of Chagre, which runneth within 5 leagues of Panama, to a place called Cruzes, thorow which riuer they cary their goods, and disimbarke them at the sayd Cru∣zes, and from thenc•• they are conueyed on mules backs to Panama by land; where they againe imbarke them in certeine small shippes in the South sea for all the coast of Peru. In one of these ships I went to Potossi, and from thence by land to Cusco, and from thence to Paita.* 1.35

Here I remained the space of seuen moneths, and then returned into the kingdome of Guati∣mala, and arriued in the prouince of Nicoia, and Nicaragua. From Nicaragua I trauelled by land to a prouince called Nicamula (which lieth toward the North sea in certaine high moun∣taines) for that I could not passe thorow the kingdome of Guatimala at that time for waters, wherewith all the Low countreys of the prouince of Soconusco, lying by the South sea, are drowned with the raine that falleth aboue in the mountaines, enduring alwayes from April to September: which season for that cause they call their Winter. From this prouince I came into another called De Vera Paz,* 1.36 in which the chiefest city is also called after that name, where

there dwelleth a bishop and about forty Spanyards. Among the mountaines of this countrey to∣ward the North sea, there is a prouince called La Cādona, where are Indian men of war which the king can not subdue, for that they haue townes and forts in a great lake of water aboue in the sayd mountaines: the most part of them goe naked, and some weare mantles of cotton wooll. Di∣stant from this about 80 leagues, I came into another prouince called the prouince of Chiapa,* 1.37 wherein the chiefest city is called Sacatlan, where there dwelleth a bishop and about an hundred Spanyards. In this countrey there is great store of Cott••n wooll, whereof the Indians make fiue linnen cloth, which the Christians buy and cary into Noua Hispania. The people of this pro∣uince pay their tribute to the king all in Cotton wooll and Feathers. Foureteene leagues from this city there is another called Chiapa, where are the finest gennets in all the Indies, which are caried hence to Mexico, 300 leagues from it. From this city I trauelled still thorow hilles and mountaines, till I came to the end of this prouince, to a hill called Ecatepec,* 1.38 which in English signifieth The hill of winde: for that they say, it is the highest hill that euer was discouered: for from the top of it may be discouered both the North and the South seas; and it is in height suppo∣sed to be nine leagues. They which trauell ouer it, lie alwayes at the foot of it ouer night, and be∣gin their iourney about midnight, to trauell to the top of it before the Sunne rise the next day, be∣cause the winde bloweth with such force afterwards, that it is impossible for any man to goe vp: from the foot of this hill to Tecoantepec,* 1.39 the first towne of Noua Hispania, are about fifteene leagues. And so from hence I iourneyed to Mexico.

By and by after I came to Mexico (which was in the yere 1572) in the company of another Spanyard, which was my companion in this iourney,* 1.40 we went together toward the prouince of Panuco, which lieth vpon the coast of the North sea, and within three dayes iourney we entred a city called Mestitlan,* 1.41 where there dwelt twelue Spanyards: the Indian inhabitants there were about thirty thousand. This city standeth vpon certaine hie mountaines, which are very thicke planted with townes very holesome and fruitfull, hauing plentifull fountaines of water running thorow them. The high wayes of these hilles are all set with fruits, and trees of diuers kindes, and most pleasant. In euery towne as we passed thorow, the Indians presented vs with victu∣als. Within twenty leagues of this place there is another city called Clanchinoltepec,* 1.42 belong∣ing to a gentleman, where there inhabit about fourty thousand Indians; and there are among them eight or nine friers of the Order of Saint Augustine, who haue there a Monastery. Within three dayes after we departed from this place, and came to a city called Guaxutla,* 1.43 where there is another Monastery of friers of the same Order: there dwell in this towne about twelue Spa∣nyards. From this place forwards beginneth a prouince called Guastecan,* 1.44 which is all plaine grounds without any hilles. The first towne we came vnto is called Tancuylabo,* 1.45 in which there dwell many Indians, high of stature, hauing all their bodies painted with blew, and weare their haire long downe to their knees, tied as women vse to doe with their haire-laces. When they goe out of their doores, they cary with them their bowes and arrowes, being very great archers, go∣ing for the most part naked. In those countreys they take neither golde nor siluer for exchange of any thing, but onely Salt,* 1.46 which they greatly esteeme, and vse it for a principall medicine for certaine wormes which breed in their lips and in their gummes. After nine dayes trauell from this place, we came to a towne called Tampice,* 1.47 which is a port towne vpon the sea, wherein the••e dwell, I thinke, forty Christians, of which number whilest were abode there, the Indians killed foureteene, as they were gathering of Salt, which is all the trade that they haue in this place: it standeth vpon the entrie of the riuer of Panuco,* 1.48 which is a mighty great riuer; and were it not for a sand that lieth at the mouth of it, ships of fiue hundred tunne might goe vp into it aboue three score leagues. From hence we went to Panuco, foureteene leagues from Tampice, which in times past had bene a goodly city, where the king of Spaine had his gouernour: but by reason that the Indians there destroyed the Christians, it lieth in a maner waste, conteining in it not a∣boue tenne Christians with a priest. In this towne I fell sicke, where I lay one and forty dayes, hauing no other sustenance then fruit and water, which water I sent for aboue sixe leagues off within the countrey. Here I remained till my companion came to me, which had departed from me another way, reteining in my company onely a slaue, which I brought with me from Mexico. And the last day in Easter weeke my companion came to me, finding me in a very weake state, by reason of the vnholesomenesse of the place. Notwithstanding my weakenesse, I being set on an horse, and an Indian behinde mee to holde mee, wee went forward on our voyage all that day till night. The next day in the morning we passed ouer the riuer in a canoa; and being on the other side, I went my selfe before alone: and by reason there met many wayes traled by the wilde beasts, I lost my way, and so trauelled thorow a great wood about two leagues: and at length

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fell into the hands of certaine wilde Indians, which were there in certaine cottages made of straw; who seeing me, came out to the number of twenty of them, with their bowes and arrowes, and spake vnto mee in their language, which I vnderstood not: and so I made signes vnto them to helpe mee from my horse; which they did by commandement of their lord, which was there with them; and lighted downe. They caried me vnder one of their cottages, and layed me vpon a mat on the ground: and perceiuing that I could not vnderstand them, they brought vnto mee a little Indian wench of Mexico, of fifteene or sixteene yeeres of age, whom they commanded to aske me in her language from whence I came, and for what intent I was c••me among them: for (sayth she) doest thou not know Christian, how that these people will kill and eat thee? To whom I answered, let them doe with me what they will; heere now I am. Shee replied, saying, thou mayest thanke God thou art leane; for they feare thou hast the pocks: otherwise they would eate thee. So I presented to the king a little wine which I had with me in a bottle; which he esteem∣ed aboue any treasure: for for wine they will sell their wiues and children. Afterwards the wench asked me what I would haue, and whether I would eat any thing. I answered that I de∣sired a little water to drinke, for that the countrey is very hote: and shee brought me a great Ve∣nice glasse, gilded, full of water. And maruelling at the glasse, I demanded how they c••me by it. She tolde me that the Casique brought it from Shallapa,* 1.49 a great towne distant 30 leagues from this place on the hilles, whereas dwelt certeine Christians, and certeine friers of the Order of S. Augustine, which this Casique with his people on a night slew; and burning the friers monaste∣rie, among other things reserued this glasse: and from thence also brought me. Hauing now bene conuersa••t with them about three or foure houres, they bid her aske me if I would goe my way. I answered her, that I desired nothing els. So the Casique caused two of his Indians to leade me forward in my way; going before me with their bowes and arrowes, naked, the space of three leagues, till they brought me into an high way: and then making a signe vnto me, they sig∣nified that in short time I should come to a towne where Christians inhabited, which was called S. Iago de los valles,* 1.50 standing in plaine fields, walled about with a mud ••all: the number of the Christians that dwelt therein, were not ab••ue foure or fiue and twenty, vnto which the king of Spaine giueth Indians and townes, to keepe the countreys subiect vnto him. He••re the Christi∣ans haue their m••ghty mules,* 1.51 which they cary for all the parts of the Indies, and into Peru, for that all their merchandize are caried by this meanes by land: In this towne aforesayd, I found my company which I had lost before, who made no other account o•• me but that I had beene slaine: and the Christians there likewise maruelled to heare that I came from those kinde of Indians a∣liue, which was a thing neuer seene nor heard of before: for they take a great pride in killing a Christian, and to weare any part of him where he hath any haire growing, hanging it about their necks, and so are accounted for valiant men. In this towne I remained eighteene dayes, till I recouered my health, and in the meane space there came one Don Francisco de Pago, whom the viceroy Don Henrico Manriques had sent for captaine generall,* 1.52 to open and discouer a certeine way from the sea side to the mines of Sacatecas, which were from this place 160 leagues, for to transport their merchandize by that way, leauing the way by Mexico, which is seuen or eight weeks trauell. So this captaine tooke me and my company, with the rest of his souldiers, to the number of forty, which he had brought with him, and fiue hundred Indians, which we tooke ••ut of two towns in this prouince called Tanchipa, and Tamaclipa, all good archers, and naked men, and went thence to the riuer de las Palmas,* 1.53 which is of great bignesse, parting the kingdome of Noua Hispania and Florida: and going still along by this riuer the space of three dayes, seeking passage to passe ouer: and finding none, we were at length inforced to cut timber to make a balsa or raft, which when we had mate, we sate on it, the Indians swimming in the water, and thrust∣ing it before them to the other side. Within thirty dayes after, trauelling thorow w••ods, hilles, and mountaines, we came to the mines of Sacatecas,* 1.54 which are the richest mines in all the Indies, and from thence they fetch most siluer: at which mines there dwelt aboue three hundred Christi∣ans: and there our captaine gaue vs leaue to depart. So we came to the valley of S. Michael to∣ward Mexico;* 1.55 and from thence to Pueblo nouo;* 1.56 and from that place to the prouince of Mechu∣acan,* 1.57 after which name the chiefest city of that place is called, where there dwelles a bishop, and a∣boue an hundred Spanyards in it: it aboundeth with all kind of Spanish fruits, and hath woods full of nut trees, and wild vines. Heere are many mines of copper,* 1.58 and great store of cattell. It lieth 60 leagues from Mexico, whither we came within foure dayes after. The Indians of this countrey are very mighty and big men.

Afterwards I returned another way to the prouince of Sonsonate by Vera cruz, and so to Rio Aluarado, and from thence to the prouince of Campeche,* 1.59 which lieth on the South side of the bay

of Mexico: the chiefe towne of this prouince is called Merida,* 1.60 in which is a bishop and almost 100 Spanyards. The Indians of this prouince pay all their tribute in mantles of cotton wooll and cacao. There is no port in all this prouince for a ship of 100 tun to ride in, but onely in the riuer of Tabasco,* 1.61 by which riuer this city of Merida standeth. The chiefest merchandize which they lade there in small frigats, is a certeine wood called campeche, (wherewith they vse to die) as al∣so hides and annile. By this there lieth the prouince of Iucatan,* 1.62 nere the Honduras by the North sea coast, where there is also another bishop, and a towne likewise named Iucatan, where there dwell a few Spanyards. They haue no force at all in all this coast to defend themselues withall, saue only that the land is low, and there is no port to receiue any shipping, vnlesse they be frigats, which cary from thence to the port of S. Iohn de Vllua, wa••e, cacao, hony, and also mantles of cotton wool, whereof they make there great store, and of which kind of merchandize there is great trade thence to Mexico: of the same also they pay their tribute to the king.

The king hath tribute brought him yerely out of the Indies into Spaine betweene nine and ten millions of gold and siluer:* 1.63 for he receiueth of euery Indian which is subiect vnto him (excepting those which do belong to the Incommenderos, which are the children of those Spanyards, who first conquered the land, to whom the king gaue and granted the gouernment of the cities and townes subdued for three liues) twelue reals of plate, and a hannege of maiz, which is a wheat of the countrey, (fiue of them making a quarter of English measure) and of euery widow woman he hath sixe reals, & halfe a hannege of maiz. And so if any Indian haue twenty children in his house, he payeth for euery one of them, being aboue fifteene yeres old, after that rate. This Wheat be∣ing duely brought to the gouernour of euery prouince and city, is fold in Mexico by the kings go∣uernours there euery yeere; so that the money receiued for it, is put into the kings Treasurie there, and so is yeerely caried from thence into Spaine. Of the Spanyards which are owners of the mines of gold and siluer, he receiueth the fift part of it, which he calleth his quintas,* 1.64 which be∣ing taken out of the heape, there is his armes set on it; for otherwise it may not be brought out of the land into Spaine, vnder paine of death. The marke of siluer, which is eight ounces, when it commeth out of the mines, not hauing the kings seale vpon it, is woorth three and forty reals of plate, and so it is current: and when they will bring it for Spaine, they cary it to the kings Trea∣sure house, where his seale is set vpon it; and so it is raised in value thereby to threescore and foure reals of plate:* 1.65 and so the king hath for his custome of euery marke of plate one and twentie reals.

From the yere of 1570, which was the yeere that the Popes buls came into the Indies, as is a∣fore mentioned, he hath receiued both of the Indians which are tributaries vnto him, and also of all others belonging to the Incommenderos, of euery one being aboue twelue yeeres of age, foure reals of euery bull. Also they cary other pardons with them into the Indies, for such as he dead, although an hundred yeres before the Spanyards came into the countrey: which pardons the fri∣ers in their preachings perswaded the poore Indians to take, telling them that with giuing foure reals of plate for a Masse, they would deliuer their soules out of purgatory. Of the Christians likewise dwelling there he hath fourteene reals for euery bull: and there be certeine buls brought thither for the Christians besides the former, which serue for pardoning all such faults wherein they haue trespassed either against the king, by keeping backe his customes, or one against another by any other iniury; for euery hundred crownes whereof a mans conscience doth accuse him that he hath deceiued the king or any other, he must giue ten for a bull, and so after that rate for euery hundred which he hath any way stollen, and so is pardoned the fault. The reuenue of his buls af∣ter this maner yeeldeth vnto his treasury yeerely aboue three millions of gold,* 1.66 as I haue bene cre∣dibly informed, although of late both the Spanyards and Indians do refuse to take the buls; for that they perceiue he doth make a yeerely custome of it: onely ech Indian taketh one pardon for all his householde, (whereas in former time euery Indian vsed to take one for euery person in his house) and teareth the same into small pieces, and giueth to euery one of his householde a little piece, saying thus, they need now no more, seeing in that which they bought the yeere before they had aboue ten thousand yeres pardon. These pieces they sticke vp in the wall of the houses where they lie. Both the Christians & Indians are weary with these infinite taxes and customes, which of late he hath imposed vpon them, more then in the yeeres before:* 1.67 so as the people of both sorts did rebell twise in the time that I was among them, and would haue set vp another king of them∣selues: for which cause the king hath commanded vpon paine of death, that they should not plant either wine or oile there, but should alwayes stand in need of them to be brought out of Spaine, al∣though there would more grow there in foure yeeres, then there groweth in Spaine in twenty, it is so fertile a countrey.

* 1.68And the king to keepe the countrey alwayes in subiection, and to his owne vse, hath streightly prouided by lawe, vpon paine of death, and losse of goods, that none of these countreys should traffique with any other nation, although the people themselues doe much now desire to trade with any other then with them, and would vndoubtedly doe, if they feared not the perill ensuing thereupon.

About Mexico, and other places in Noua Hispania, there groweth a certeine plant called ma∣gueis,* 1.69 which yeeldeth wine, vineger, hony, and blacke sugar, and of the leaues of it dried they make hempe, ropes, shooes which they vse, and tiles for their houses: and at the ende of euery leafe there groweth a sharpe point like an awle, wherewith they vse to bore or pearce thorow any thing.

Thus to make an end, I haue heere set downe the summe of all the chiefest things that I haue obserued and noted in my seuenteene yeres trauell in those parts.

Notes

• * 1.1

  1568.
• * 1.2

  Cadiz.
• * 1.3

  San Iuan de Vllua.
• * 1.4

  Vera Cruz.
• * 1.5

  Xalapa Sixteene leagues.
• * 1.6

  Perota seuen leagues.
• * 1.7

  Fuentes de Ozumba nine leagues. Pueblo de los Angeles eight leagues.
• * 1.8

  Tlaxcalla foure leagues north∣ward from los Angeles.
• * 1.9

  Vulcan is a hill that continu∣ally burneth with fire.
• * 1.10

  Cochinilla.
• * 1.11

  Pueblo de los Angeles 20 leagues from Mexico.
• * 1.12

  His voyage from Mexico to Nueua Bis∣cai••.
• * 1.13

  New Biscay.
• * 1.14

  The Siluer mines of Tama••caltepec.
• * 1.15

  The valley of S. Bartholomew.
• * 1.16

  The hauen where y^e shipe of China & the Philippinas ar∣riue.
• * 1.17

  Guaxaca.
• * 1.18

  Aguatulco.
• * 1.19

  Nixapa.
• * 1.20

  Sapotecas.
• * 1.21

  Tecoantepec
• * 1.22

  Soconusco.
• * 1.23

  Suchetepec. Guasacapan.
• * 1.24

  Guatimala.
• * 1.25

  Sonsonate.
• * 1.26

  San Saluador.
• * 1.27

  Acaxutla.
• * 1.28

  Nicoia a port where y^e ships which goe to the Philippinas are diuided.
• * 1.29

  Pue••••o de C••∣uallos a rich place.
• * 1.30

  The descripti∣on of Hauana at large.
• * 1.31

  The smal force of Ha••ana.
• * 1.32

  The commo∣dities of Cuba.
• * 1.33

  Nombre de Dios.
• * 1.34

  Panama.
• * 1.35

  Potossi Cusco. Pait••
• * 1.36

  Vera Paz.
• * 1.37

  Chiapa 300 leagues from Mexico.
• * 1.38

  Ecatepec an hill nine leagues high.
• * 1.39

  Tecoa••tepec••
• * 1.40

  His iourney to Panuc••.
• * 1.41

  Mestitlan.
• * 1.42

  Clanchinoltepe••.
• * 1.43

  Gu••xutl••
• * 1.44

  Guastec••n.
• * 1.45

  Tancuylabo.
• * 1.46

  Salt a princi∣pall merchan∣dize.
• * 1.47

  Tampice a port towne.
• * 1.48

  Panuco.
• * 1.49

  ••••allapa.
• * 1.50

  Sant Iago de los ••alles.
• * 1.51

  Mighty mules.
• * 1.52

  Don Henrico Manriques vice∣roy of Mexico.
• * 1.53

  Rio de la•• Palmas.
• * 1.54

  The mines of Sacatecas.
• * 1.55

  The valley of S. Michael.
• * 1.56

  Pueblo nueuo.
• * 1.57

  Mechuacan.
• * 1.58

  Copper mines
• * 1.59

  Campeche.
• * 1.60

  Merida.
• * 1.61

  Rio de Tabas••o.
• * 1.62

  Iucatan
• * 1.63

  The greatnesse of the king of Spaines tri∣bute out of the West Indies.
• * 1.64

  The quinta••
• * 1.65

  The marke of siluer is 64 re∣als of plate.
• * 1.66

  The reuenue of the kings buls and par∣dons came yerely to three millions.
• * 1.67

  Rebellions in Noua Hispania by too great exactions.
• * 1.68

  The reasons which mooue the kings of Spaine to forbid forren traffi••e in the West In∣dies.
• * 1.69

  M••gueis