Of the Russe common wealth. Or, Maner of gouernement of the Russe emperour, (commonly called the Emperour of Moskouia) with the manners, and fashions of the people of that countrey.

Of the Soyle and Climate. (Book 2)

The 2. Chapter. (Book 2)

THe soyle of the countrie for the most part is of a sleight sandie moulde, yet very much different one place from another, for the yeeld of such thinges as grow out

of the earth. The countrie Northwards to∣wards the partes of S. Nicolas and Cola, and Northeast towards Siberia, is all very barren, and full of desert woods by reason of the clymat, and extremitie of the colde in win∣ter time. So likewise along the riuer Volgha betwixt the countries of Cazan, and Astra∣can: where (notwithstanding the soyle is very fruitefull) it is all vnhabited, sauing that vpon the riuer Volgha on the west side, the Emperour hath some fewe castels with garrisons in them. This hapneth by means of the Chrim Tartar, that will neyther him∣selfe plant townes to dwell there, (liuing a wilde and vagrant life) nor suffer the Russe (that is farre off with the strength of his countrie) to people those partes. From Vo∣logda (which lieth almost 1700. verst from the porte of S. Nicholas) downe towardes Mosko, and so towardes the south parte that bordereth vpon the Chrim, (which contei∣neth the like space of 1700. verst or there a∣bouts) is a very fruitfull and pleasant coun∣trie, yeelding pasture, and corne, with woods & waters in very great plentie. The like is be∣twixt Rezan (that lieth southeast frō Mosko) to Nouograd and Vobsko, that reach farthest towards the northwest. So betwixt Mosko, and Smolensko (that lieth southwest towards Lituania) is a very fruitful and pleasant soile.

The whole countrie differeth very much from it selfe, by reason of the yeare: so that a man would meruaile to see the great alte∣ration and difference betwixte the winter, and the sommer Russia. The whole coun∣trie in the winter lyeth vnder snow, which falleth continually, and is sometime of a yarde or two thicke, but greater towardes the north. The riuers and other waters are all frosen vp a varde or more thicke, how swifte or broade so euer they bee. And this continueth commonly fiue moneths, vz, from the beginning of Nouember till to∣wardes the ende of March, what time the snow beginneth to melte. So that it would breede a frost in a man to looke abroad at that time, and see the winter face of that countrie.* 1.1 The sharpenesse of the ayre you may iudge of by this: for that water drop∣ped downe or cast vp into the ayre, congea∣leth into Ise before it come to the ground. In the extremitie of winter, if you holde a pewter dishe or pot in your hand, or a∣ny other mettall (except in some chamber where their warme stoaues bee) your fingers will friese faste vnto it, and drawe of the skinne at the parting. When you passe out of a warme roome into a colde, you shall sen∣sibly feele your breath to waxe starke, and euen stifeling with the colde, as you draw it

in and out▪ Diuers not onely that trauell abroad, but in the very markets, and streats of their townes, are mortally pinched and killed withall: so that you shall see many drop downe in the streates, many trauel∣lers brought into the townes sitting dead and stiffe in their sleddes. Diuers lose their noses, the tippes of their eares, and the bals of their cheekes, their toes, feete, &c. Ma∣ny times when (the winter is very harde and extreame) the beares and woolfes issue by troupes out of the woodes driuen by hunger, and enter the villages, tearing and rauening all they can finde: so that the inha∣bitants are faine to flie for safegard of their liues. And yet in the Sommer time you shall see such a new hew and face of a countrie, the woods (for the most part which are all of fir and birch) so fresh and so sweet, the pastures and medowes so greene and well growen, (& that vpō the sudden) such varietie of flowers, such noyse of birdes (especially of Nightin∣gales, that seeme to be more lowde and of a more variable note then in other countries) that a man shall not lightly trauell in a more pleasant countrie.

And this fresh and speedy grouth of the spring there, seemeth to proceede from the benefite of the snow: which all the winter time being spred ouer the whole countrie as

a white robe, & keeping it warme from the rigour of the frost, in the spring time (when the sunne waxeth warme, and dissolueth it into water) doth so throughly drench and soake the ground, that is somewhat of a sleight and sandy mould, & then shineth so hotely vpon it againe, that it draweth the hearbes and plants forth in great plenty and varietie, in a very short time. As the winter exceedeth in colde, so the sommer inclineth to ouer much heat, specially in the moneths of Iune, Iuly, and August, being much war∣mer then the sommer ayre in England.

The countrie throughout is very well wa∣tred with springs, riuers, & ozeraes, or lakes. Wherein the prouidence of God is to bee noted, for that much of the countrie beyng so farre inland, as that some parte lieth a 1000. miles and more euery way from any sea, yet it is serued with faire riuers, and that in very great number, that emptiyng them∣selues one into an other, runne all into the sea. Their lakes are many and large, some of 60. 80. 100. and 200. miles long, with breadth proportionate.

The chief riuers are these 1. Volgha,* 1.2 that hath his head or spring at the roote of an Aldertree, about 200. verst aboue Yaruslaue, & groweth so big by the encrease of other riuers by that time it commeth thither, that

it is broad an English mile and more, and so runneth into the Caspian sea, about 2800. verst or miles of length.

The next is Boristhenes (now called Ne∣per) that diuideth the countrie from Litua∣nia, and falleth into the Euxin sea.

The third Tanais or Don, (the auncient bounder betwixt Europe and Asia) that ta∣keth his head out of Rezan Ozera, and so running through the countrie of the Chrim Tartar, falleth into the great sea lake, or meare, (called Maeotis) by the Citie of Azou. By this riuer (as the Russe reporteth) you may passe from their citie Mosko to Constanti∣nople, and so into all those partes of the world by water, drawing your boate (as their manner is) ouer a little Isthmus or narrow slippe of lande, a fewe versts ouerthwart. Which was proued not long since by an Am∣bassadour sent to Constantinople, who passed the riuer of Moskua and so into an other cal∣led Ocka, whence he drew his boate ouer in∣to Tanais, and thence passed the whole way by water.

The fourth is called Duyna, many hun∣dred miles long, that falleth Northward in∣to the Baye of Saint Nicholas, and hath great Alabaster rockes on the bankes towards the sea side.

The fifth Duna, that emptieth into the

Baltick sea by the towne Riga.

The sixt Onega, that falleth into the Bay at Solouetsko 90. verst from the port of Saint Nicholas. This riuer below the towne Car∣gapolia meeteth with the riuer Volock, that falleth into the Finland sea by the towne Yama. So that from the port of S. Nicholas into the Finland sea, and so into the Sound, you may passe all by water, as hath bene tri∣ed by the Russe.

The seuenth Suchana, that floweth into Duyna, and so into the North sea.

The eight Ocka, that fetcheth his head from the borders of the Chrim, & streameth into Volgha.

The ninth Moskua, that runneth thorough the citie Mosko, and giueth it the name.

There is Wichida also a very large and long riuer that riseth out of Permia, and fal∣leth into Volgha. All these are riuers of very large streames, the least to be compared to the Thames in bignesse, and in length farre more, besides diuers other. The Pole at Mos∣ko is 55. degrees 10. minutes. At the porte of S. Nicholas towards the North 63. degrees and 50 minutes.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The cold of Russia.
• * 1.2

  The chief riuers of Russia.