Journal of Captain Cook's last voyage, to the Pacific Ocean: on Discovery: performed in the years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. Illustrated with cuts, and a chart, ...

PART II.

Containing an Account of what happened in prose|cuting the Voyage to the North, to determine the Existence or Non-existence of a Passage between the great Pacific and Atlantic Oceans in that He|misphere.

HAVING taken leave of the islands with which we were before acquainted in the southern hemisphere, we now directed our course to the northward, to explore coasts and countries hitherto unvisited by any English voyager, and but lately known to the navigators of other countries.

We took our departure from the Society Isles, as has already been said, on the 9th of December, 1777, steering N. by E. as near as the winds would let us, with mostly fine weather till the 20th, when in lat. 4.54. S. we were surrounded with land and sea weeds, and bodies of trees, which seemed to be but lately separated from their re|spective roots; but it was not till

The 23d that we discovered land. On that day, in lat. 2. N. long. 203.15. E. after having crossed the line the day before, the man at the mast-head called out land, bearing N. E. distance between six and seven leagues. We instantly wore ship, and stood in for a fine bay, on which we found good anchorage in 48 fathom water. On viewing the island from the ships, there did not appear the least sign of an inhabitant; but near the shore there were shoals of sharks, and the sea seemed crusted over with sea-fowls, some of a very large size. The boats that had been sent out to reconnoitre returned in the evening with one large turtle each, and loaded with boobies and other tro|pical birds, that by hungry mariners are generally esteemed good eating. They likewise brought several sharks, which they found in such crowds, that they knocked them on the head with their oars.

On the 24th we changed our station, and an|chored in 17 fathom water.

And on the 25th we kept Christmas in much mirth and festivity, the crew having plenty of provisions, and the Gentlemen plenty of turtle. The ships being safely moored, and the weather fine, but almost insupportably hot, the men were allowed the whole day to amuse themselves, and every one had a pint of brandy to make merry, and drink health to their friends in Old England.

In the evening, parties from both ships were invited to go a turtling, but none were pressed into that service, all were volunteers. On our landing, the crews went different ways; and in order to know where to meet, fires were made in separate directions; one fire for the Resolution's party, and one for that of the Discovery's. Our party before morning had turned more than 20 turtles, and had carried them on board; and when the boats were unloaded, returned for more. In the mean time, a fishing party were likewise sent out, and were no less successful than the turtlers; hut on this service a seaman had a very narrow escape. As he was helping to draw the seine, a shark made a chop at his arm, but fortunately caught only a piece of his shirt's sleeve, with which he made off.

The Resolution's turtlers had made a trip to their ship to unlade; but on the return of their boats to the island, one of their men was missing, who, tired with carrying a turtle of more than 100 weight in the heat of the day, had laid it down on the beech, and retired to a thicket, to shelter himself from the sun. Here he fell asleep, and as soon as he awoke, be endeavoured to recover his turtle, but in vain; he had entangled himself among the bushes, and in the evening, after a most painful search, he was found almost speechless through fatigue and want of refreshment.

All this day our people continued their diver|sion on the S. E. side of the island; but

On the 26th, about ten in the morning, Mr. B—y, Mr. E—r, and Mr. P—k, with ten or twelve seamen in the cutter, having a good quantity of water on board, and each man a pint of brandy, directed their course to the N. E. quar|ter, and about noon arrived at a neck of land,

over which they were to travel on foot to come at the place where the turtle were supposed to har|bour, and where it was dangerous to attempt to approach them by sea by reason of the surf. Here they safely secured their cutter, and near the shore they erected a kind of hut, to which they carried their provisions, and sat down to rest and to refresh. This done, they agreed to divide, and to pursue their sport in separate parties. Accordingly they set out, and before the next morning they had sent in as many turtle as the cutter could well stow. This they did by placing them across a couple of oars in the nature of a bier, and keeping men em|ployed in conveying them from the place where they were turned, to the cutter. As they grew tired of their diversion, they repaired to the place of rendezvous; but it was some surprize to the rest, when at nine in the morning, Mr. B—y, Mr. P—k and Simeon Woodrooff, the gunner's mate, was missing. It was then concluded that they had gone too far within land, and that they had either lost their way, or some accident had be|fallen them; perhaps from natives lurking secretly in the woods, though none had openly appeared.

Under these apprehensions two seamen, Bar|tholomew Loremer and Thomas Trecher were sent out in search of them, each carrying a gallon of water, with brandy and other refreshments, in case they should meet with the Gentlemenn their way. In a wild uncultivated country, over-run with bushes and close cover, the reader, who has never been bewildered in a full-grown thicket after sport, can have no idea of men's being lost in the short space of a few miles. So, however it happened. The Gentlemen, invited by the mixed melody of the birds in the woods, left these people as soon as they had properly stationed them,

and entered an adjoining thicket, with their guns. The sport they met with led them on till night began to close upon them. They were then at a distance from the turtlers, and in the midst a trackless cover, with nothing but lew trees to di|rect their return; but what was more alarming, the sun was no sooner set, than a thick fog suc|ceeded, which involved the woods in darkness, though the open beach remained clear. In vain they attempted to regain the shore; for, instead, of being able to discern the trees they had marked to secure their retreat, they could hardly see one another at five yards distance. In this situation, they soon began to lose all knowledge of their way; and lest, instead of proceeding in the right course, they should pursue a contrary direction, they agreed to sit down to rest, and for that pur|pose chose the first convenient spot that chance threw in their way. Though their minds were troubled, they had scarce set themselves down, when sleep got the better of their anxiety, and they all lay composed till attacked by swarms of black ants, (creatures more poisonous than bugs) with which they were in a manner covered when they awoke; and so disfigured and tormented with their bites and blisters, that it is hardly possible to desribe their distress. Thus circumstanced, their first care was to clear themselves from these vermin, by stripping themselves, and sweeping them off with brushes made of the wings of the birds they had killed; this done, they clothed themselves again, in order to renew their atttempts to recover the shore; but all in vain. The farther they walked, as it appeared afterwards, the farther they went astray. At length, suspecting their error, they resolved to remain stationary; and each man, placing himself against an adjoining tree, endea|voured

to console himself as well as he could till morning, when the appearance of the sun should enable them to judge of the course they were to pursue; but in a trackless wilderness how were they to make their way! The thicket in many places was overgrown with thick grass and bram|bles reaching; to their middles, and in others so thick intersected with boughs, and matted with leaves, that it was hardly possible to keep com|pany, or to penetrate with their utmost efforts, when these obstructions happened) one hundred yards in as many minutes. Still, however, la|bouring to advance, they, at length, all at once, observed an opening that led, as they thought, to the long-wished for shore. They forgot, for the moment, the pains of their lacerated limbs, though all torn with briars and besmeared with blood, and comforted themselves with the hope of a speedy deliverance. But they had still a journey of about seven or eight miles to perform, before they could reach the place from whence they set out. Almost spent with fatigue, and their spirits wasted with the most painful exertion of bodily strength, without having a drop of water to quench their intolerable thirst, they at length arrived at the hut, when, to their great mortification, they found it deserted, and destitute of every kind of refreshment. In this situation casting their eyes towards the ships, they perceived the boats hastening to their relief. The officer who commanded, and the crew, had waited at the hut till all their provisions were ex|pended, and the officer not knowing how to pro|ceed, had repaired to the ship for a fresh supply, and for fresh orders, and was now returning fully furnished and instructed. On his arrival he was struck with astonishment at the sight of three such miserable beings, as the Gentlemen and Mate

appeared to be, lacerated all over, and besmeared with blood, and with scarce a rag about them broad|er than a garter. Their cry was for grog, which was dealt to them sparingly, and they were in|stantly sent on board to be properly taken care of.

The first enquiry they made, was, whether any of the company had been sent after them; and being answered in the affirmative, and that they were not yet returned, they could not help ex|pressing their doubts whether they ever would return; adding their wishes at the same time, that no means might be omitted to endeavour their recovery.

It is natural for men, who have just experienced any signal deliverance, to feel poignantly for the safety of others under the same critical circumstances. It was therefore no small satisfaction to the suf|ferers, when they were told, that every possible means would be tried for the poor men's relief; and to enable those who were to be sent on that errand the better to direct their search, the gen|tlemen described, as well as they could, the spot where they thought they heard men halloo to one another about the dawn of day. There were now twenty of the crew (seamen and marines) who had been dispatched from on board, for recover|ing the gentlemen. These had orders to traverse the thickets in a body, till they should find one or other of them, either living or dead; for, till the gentlemen appeared, nothing could be concluded with certainty concerning them. The majority were of opinion, that, if they had been alive, they most certainly would have returned as soon as it was dark, as they could have no motive to pursue their sport in the night; and it was by no means probable, that they should be bewil|dered, because they might surely have found

the same way out of the cover, by which they went into it. This was very plausible; but 〈◊〉〈◊〉 on board, who had sailed with Commodore Byron, and who remembered the almost impenetrable thickets in the island of Tinian, where men could not see one another in open day, at the distance of five yards, knew well how the gentlemen might be entangled, and how hard it would fare with them if it should so happen. But, as this instance was known only to few, it was regarded by none; and the former opinion, that some fa|tal accident had happened to them, prevailed ge|nerally till the gentlemen appeared, when the whole mystery was unravelled.

Early in the morning of the next day, (the two men being still missing) the whole party assem|bled, and the plan of their proceeding was form|ed. By marching in lines at such a distance from each other, as to be within hearing, it was thought impossible to fail of finding the men, if living, or of discovering some traces of them, if dead: and they were to direct their line of march to|wards the spot where the sound of the voices was heard by the gentlemen.

After a diligent search of six hours, Bartholo|mew Loreman was discovered in a most miserable condition, almost blinded by the venomous bites of vermin, added to the scorching heat of the sun, and speechless for want of something to clear his throat. He made signs for water, and water was given him. He had got out of the thicket, and was wandering about upon the beech, without being sensible of the miserable condition in which he was found. It fortunately happened, that a boat from the Discovery had been sent round the point of land already mentioned, and stationed near where the turtlers had been employed the

night before, for the purpose of taking the gentlemen on board, in case they should have been strayed to any considerable distance. If this precaution had not been taken, this man must have perished before he could have been conveyed by any other means to the place of rendezvous; and it was with the utmost dif|ficulty that he was carried to the nearest boat. As soon as he could be brought to his speech, he said he had parted from his companion Trecher in the morning, not in anger, but not agreeing about the way back, nor ever expecting to see one another again. They had traversed the thicket as long as they were able, in search of the gentlemen without success; and when over|come with fatigue, they sat down to refresh, and he believed had drank a little too freely of the grog they had in charge, for they both fell a|sleep. They were frightened when they waked to find it dark night; and although they felt their faces and hands covered with vermin, the thoughts of having neglected their duty, and the dread of the consequences so distracted their minds, that they were hardly sensible of any other pain. As rest was now no longer their object, they rose and wandered, they neither knew nor cared where, till day began to break upon them. In the mean time, several wild projects came into their heads. At last they thought of climbing the highest tree, to try if they could discover any hill or eminence, from whence they might take a view of the coun|try, in order to be certain whether it was inha|bited or not. This was approved of by both, and Trecher mounted the loftiest within his reach, from whence he said he could discern, towards the South-west, a hill of considerable height; and as that was, as he thought, the point that led to the

shore, thither he proposed that they should go; but Loreman rather chose to endeavour to regain the shore by another course; and as he thought he heard the report of a gun the evening before, he determined to make towards the point from whence the sound proceeded; and in that he hap|pened to judge right; and when he got out of the wood, being parched with thirst, he killed a turtle and sucked the blood. His companion, he said, who was at some distance farther in the thicket, and who did not hear the report of the gun, did not believe what he said; whereupon they agreed to part. What course Trecher took he could not tell, but he believed to the South-west.

Loreman was judged in too dangerous a con|dition to admit of any delay; he was therefore sent off in the boat, and being put under the care of the Surgeon, soon recovered.

After this detail it was debated, whether to resign Trecher to his fate, or to continue the search. The humanity of the officer, who had the command of the party, prevailed. It was now about ten in the morning, of the 29th, when the whole party, after taking some refreshment, set out to scour the thickets, and, by hallooing, ringing of bells, beating of drums, and pursu|ing different courses, determined he should hear them if he were alive. It was no easy task to pe|netrate a trackless cover, over-grown with un|derwood, and abounding with infects, of which the musquitoes were the least troublesome. But numbers make that easy, which to individuals would be impracticable. They went on chear|fully at first; but, before a few hours were elaps|ed, even the gentlemen, who were inspirited by their success in killing game, began to be tired, and it was thought adviseable to rest and refresh

during the middle of the day, and to renew the pursuit after they had dined. As yet they had not been able to discover any trace or track of the man they were seeking, though it had been a|greed between Trecher and his companion, to cut boughs from the trees, as they passed along, by way of mark or guide to each other, in case of separation.

This was no small discouragement; and few had any relish to renew a labour attended with so much fatigue, and so little prospect of success.

The officers were alone inflexibly bent on the pursuit. The men, though they were no less willing, were not all equally able to endure the fatigue; and some of them were even ready to drop, before their dinner and their grog had revived their spirits. The only expedient that now remained to be tried, was, that which Tre|cher himself had projected, namely, to climb the highest tree that appeared in view, in order to look for the hill which he pretended to have seen, and to which it was thought probable that he might direct his course. This was no sooner proposed than executed. In a moment a sailor was perched at the top of every lofty tree in sight, and the high land descried, seemingly at no great distance from the place where the party had din|ed. It was now agreed, to make the best of their way to the eminence, but this proved not so easy a task as it at first appeared to be. When they thought themselves just ready to mount, they met with a lagoon that interrupted their progress; and coasting it along, they discovered the skele|ton of a creature that, by its length, appeared to be an allegator. In viewing this narrowly, something like the track of some large animal was observed to have passed it, and the high grass

on the margin of the lagoon to have been fresh trodden. This excited the curiosity of the whole party, who imagined that some monster inhabit|ed the lagoon, against which it was prudent for them to be upon their guard. The waters of the lagoon were salt as brine, and every where skirted with a kind of reed and sedge, that reach|ed as high as a man's head, and could not be pe|netrated without danger from scorpions or other venomous reptiles, several of which had been seen in the bushes. All attempts therefore of suc|ceeding by this course appeared to be labour lost; and as no other were thought more probable, it was resolved to relinquish the pursuit, and to re|turn to the boats: but the day being already too far spent to make their return practicable be|fore the morning, it was agreed to coast it along the lake, to endeavour to find access to the op|posite hills; and this was the more easily effect|ed, as between the sedgey border and the thicket there was an open space of unequal breadth, only sometimes intersected with brambley patches that joined the lake, but of no great extent. Through these they made their way with little opposition till the lake appeared to deepen, when a most stubborn woody copse seemed to bid de|fiance to their further progress. This difficulty, however, was with much labour surmounted, and it was no sooner passed, than the lake was found to terminate, and the ground to rise. The coun|try began now to put on a new face. The pro|spect which had hitherto presented nothing but a wild and almost impenetrable thicket, as they ascended the rising ground, became delightful. And when they had attained the summit of the eminence, was exceedingly picturesque. Here they determined to pass the night within a plea|sant

grove, which seemed to be designed by na|ture for a place of rest. The whole party now assembled, and orders were given by the com|manding officers to erect temporary huts to shel|ter them from the evening damps. These huts were only boughs and leaves of trees set up tent fashion. In this service some were employed in cutting down and preparing the materials, while others were busied in dispossing and putting them together; some were ordered to collect fuel, and others to carry it to the summit of an adjoining hill, in order to be kindled at the close of day, and kept burning during the night, by way of signal, to let the man know, if alive, where to re|pair; and the ships, that the party were safe. Be|fore night set in the huts were completed, the fire was lighted, the sentinel at his station, the watch set, and the party all retired to rest, when, about the dead of night, the sentinel who attend|ed the fire, was surprized by a four-footed mon|ster. This monster, upon examination, proved no other, than the identical Thomas Trecher, of whom they had been in search so long, crawling upon all sours; for his feet were so blistered, that he could not stand, and his throat so parched that he could not speak. It is hard to say which was predominant, their joy, their surprize, or their laughter. No time, however, was lost in administering comfort to the poor man. He was a most affecting spectacle, blistered from head to foot by poisonous insects, whose venomous stings had caused such an intolerable itching, that his very blood was inflamed by constant rubbing. By anointing him with oil, the acrimony, in some degree, abated; and by frequently giving him small quantities of tea, mixed with a little brandy, they brought him to his speech; but it was some

days before he recovered the perfect use of his faculties.

The absence the whole night of the party sent out in search of him, having been reported to Capt. Cook, he had ordered two boats into the lagoon, to go different ways, to assist in the search; but being in the evening relieved from his anxiety, he recalled the boats, and gave orders to prepare for sailing.

We had now been off this island near 7 days, in which time we had taken more than 300 turtle, from 90 to 100 lb. weight on board. But tho' it seemed more than 60 leagues in circumference, there were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been upon it before: and, in|deed, should any people be so unfortunate as to be accidentally driven upon it, they could not possibly exist for any length of time. There are, it is true, many birds, and abundance of fish, but no visible means of allaying thirst, nor any vege|table that could supply the place of bread. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and in general, what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice salt or brackish; so that a ship touching here, must ex|pect nothing but fish and turtle; but not a drop of fresh water was to be found throughout the island.

On the 1st of January, 1778, about ten in the morning, we unmoored, and set sail, with the Re|solution in company, directing our course N. by E. with a gentle breeze from the East.

To the island which we had just left, Capt. Cook gave the name of Christmas Island, leaving in it a bottle, with a similar inscription to that cut on Omai's house, the date only excepted. It lies

in lat. 1.59. N. and in long. 201. E. from Green|wich. It is a low barren island, and has all the appearance of having been blighted. The few co|coa-nut trees that were found upon it, produced hardly any fruit, and, except a few on the bor|ders of the lagoon already mentioned, what they bore were without kernels.

Early on the 2d of January, Christmas Island bore S. S. E. as far as the eye could carry, and as we were now clear of land, and proceeding with a prosperous gale, and had plenty of provisions on board, the men were allowed turtle to boil with their pork; which, however, in a few days was disconti|nued by the advice of the Surgeon, and turtle sub|stituted in the room of every other kind of meat. This was found both healthful and nourishing, and was continued till within a few days of our arrival at another island, where we met with fresh provisions, and water equal to any we brought with us from the Society Isles.

On the 3d, the wind shifted W. S. W. and a storm came on, preceded by a louring darkness, that presaged some violent convulsion; and soon after it broke forth in thunder, lightning, wind, and rain, which in two hours increased to such a violent degree, as no man on board had ever known the like. Fortunately for us, its violence in a few hours abated; but in that little time the sea broke over our quarter, and cleared the decks of every thing that was loose. Before noon, the wind subsided, but the rain continued till evening, of which we made good use. From the time of our leaving Ulietea to the present day, we had received no fresh supply of water; and, though the still had been constantly at work, our comple|ment began already to run scanty. This after|noon, several indications of land were observed;

such as great quantities of sea-weed floating about the ships, and fresh timber driving with the cur|rent. The Resolution made the signal to shorten sail and stand to the Southward, which was obeyed; but, no land coming in sight while it was day-light, after eight hours search we left off the pursuit, and resumed our course to the North|ward, which we continued till

The 13th, when, in lat. 13.3. long. 202.6. we steered to the N. W. in search of land, the signs of which were very striking; but, after continuing that course all night without succeed|ing, we again stood to the North. From this time till

The 20th, nothing material happened, some slight storms excepted; we shall therefore •••…•••…me our relation of what occurred to Trecher, from the time that he parted from his companion, on the 29th of December, till the night he was found on the 3d.

It was, as has already been observed, several days, before he could perfectly recollect all that passed in his mind, and all that he suffered in his person. He confirmed Loreman's relation of what passed while they remained together; but, in the morning of the 29th, when they agreed to part, his thoughts ran chiefly on discovering some house or place of resort of the natives, as it ran strongly in his mind, that an island of such extent as that appeared to be, could not be wholly des|titute of inhabitants. In pursuit of this idea, he determined to make towards the hill or high land, which he had seen from the top of the tree; and to observe the course of the sun for his guide, but he met with many obstructions that retarded his progress. The reeds and the rough grass were in many places so high and thick, that he was almost

suffocated in attempting to get through them, and was frequently obliged to return, when he thought he had nearly reached the opposite side. Though there were serpents, and, he believed, scorpions, continually bissing, in almost all directions, the fear of being stung by them was absorbed by the more immediate torture he felt from the musqui|toes, and other venomous insects, that fastened upon him, and teized him incessantly; add to these distresses, the bad condition of his shoes, which were worn to shreds; and, though he tied them round and round with cords made of twisted grass, yet it was hardly possible for him to keep them upon his feet for ten steps together. In this melancholy situation, rest was a stranger to him; yet sleep would sometimes close his eyes, and fill his imagination with horrors still more distressing than those he felt while awake. To|wards the evening of the 29th, he thought he heard the howling of dogs; and, a-while after, the growling of some savage beast, but of what species he could not tell; however, he saw no|thing, and these might only be the creatures of his own disturbed fancy. Towards night he got to|gether a quantity of broad leaves from the trees to make him a bed, and to cover his face and hands from the black ants. To allay his thirst, he thought of chewing the stems of a reed, that had a saccharine taste, and was probably a wild kind of sugar-cane, which gave him some re|freshment, and contributed not a little to his pre|servation. Soon as day began to dawn, he found himself weak and languid, and had very little stomach to renew his labour. His first care, how|ever, was to repair his shoes. This he did by forming wisps of grass into the shape of soals, and placing them underneath the remains of the lea|ther

soals. He then tied them together round his feet and ankles with cords, made as before; and with these he made shift to scramble on a-while, but they soon wanted repair. He again had re|course to his first expedient, and mounted a tree that over-topped the cover, and got sight of the high land that first animated his pursuit. He thought it so near that he could soon reach it; and, hastening down, made his way with more alacrity than ever, being prepossessed that if he reached that eminence, his deliverance would be certain. For some hours he struggled through the most formidable obstacles, the cover being now so thick and strong, and withal so high, that he could hardly see the light over his head through the leaves and the bushes. This happened to be the outer border that skirted the lagoon, which when he had penetrated, and found an opening, his heart leaped within him; but his joy was or short duration. He presently discovered that he had another difficulty to furmount, before he could reach the summit of his wishes. He at|tempted the lagoon, and waded nearly across, without the water rising higher than his middle, but all at once plunged over-head in deep water, and it was next to a miracle that he saved himself from drowning. He then returned quite ex|hausted and dejected, and breaking through the sedge of the margin of the lake, he stumbled upon the skeleton of the monster already men|tioned, which he believed was fifty feet long. He was so scared at the fight of the bones, that his hair stood on-end, and he thought of nothing now but being eaten up alive. Totally dispirited, and faint for want of food or any thing to drink, and deprived of all means of proceeding any far|ther, he crept along the lake till he came to a

cocoa-nut tree near the edge of the thicket, which he attempted to climb, but fell down for want of strength to keep his hold, and lay for several hours incapable of motion. He heard, he said, a noise in the cover, in the day, but could neither halloo to be heard, nor follow the sound, though some of the company must have passed very near him; but seeing the fire lighted on the hill in the even|ing, it encouraged him to make one struggle more for life. Without a shoe to his foot, having lost them in the lake, he made shift to crawl up the hill, as already related. Few readers will think it possible for a man to suffer so much in so short a time; and yet many have lost their lives by be|ing bewildered in England, and many more on the wild heaths in Scotland, which cannot be sup|posed to be so dangerous as the thick cover of a desolate island, where no man ever set his foot be|fore. But, be that as it may, such is the account given by Trecher, of his sufferings during the three days he was absent from the ship.

Having now been 17 days at sea, without see|ing land,

On the 18th, a very severe storm arose, which blew with irrestible fury for some hours, and obliged us to clue up our main sheets, and scud bofore it, at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour; but before noon the wind died away, and a dead calm succeeded. Such is the variableness of the weather near the tropics.

On the 19th, being then in lat. 21.12. N. and long. 200.41. E. the man at the mast-head called out, High land, bearing E. N. E. and in a very little time came in sight of more land, apparently of an equal height with the former. As we ap|proached the windward island, it presented no very promising aspect, being mountainous, and

surrounded with reefs, without any signs of inha|bitants; we therefore stood off and on till

The 20th, when we bore away for the land to leeward, but not then in sight.

About nine in the morning, it was seen the se|cond time, at the distance of about seven or eight leagues. We were charmed with its ap|pearance as we came near it, observing it to abound with rivers, and to exhibit a prospect so full of plenty, that we anticipated the pleasure we expected, by supposing ourselves already in possession of a most seasonable supply. We had been for several days reduced to the scanty allow|ance of a quart of water a-day, and that none of the best; and now that we saw, or thought we saw, whole rivers before us, our hearts were di|lated with joy; yet we had still much to suffer. We found ourselves debarred from the thing we were most in want of for several days, by shoals and rocks that to us were impracticable. We coasted along the N. W. side of the island, sound|ing as we went, while the boats from both ships were employed in searching for some bay or har|bour, where we might safely anchor. In the mean time, several canoes came from the shore with plantains and dried fish on board, who parted with what they had for any trifles that were offered them; and at first behaved with great civility, but could not be persuaded to venture on board. At five in the evening, we were two leagues from the shore, surrounded by Indians in their canoes, with hogs in abundance, some very large, which we purchased according to their size, for a spike or a ten-penny nail each.

While we remained at sea, no people on earth could be more friendly; but our boats had no sooner landed, than a quarrel arose between the

natives and our people, which was terminated by the death of one of the former. It was said that the Indians were the aggressors, by throwing stones at the boats to prevent the people from landing, and that orders being given to fire a gun over the heads of the assailants, without doing them any hur; tinstead of commanding respect, it only en|couraged them in insolence, till Mr. W—, our third Lieutenant, presenting his piece, shot one of the ringleaders dead upon the spot.

This early act of severity was probably the means of saving many lives. The Indians dispersed immediately, carrying off the dead body with them. And the boats, not having made any dis|covery, returned to the ships, where they were taken on board, and secured till next morning.

On the 21st the boats were again sent out, but to as little purpose as before. Little trade was this day carried on, as the natives seemed very shy. But,

On the 22d, the ships having found anchorage on the south-west side, they were no sooner moored than they were again surrounded with a more numerous multitude of islanders than before, who seemed to express the greatest astonishment at the greatness of our ships; nor did it appear that they had ever seen an European ship before, though they were not wholly unacquainted with the use of iron. Most of their canoes were laden with hogs, plantains, bananoes and sweet potatoes, which they readily exchanged chiefly for iron. Here the sailors were suffered to make what pur|chases they pleased; only women were prohibited by Capt. Cook's order, on the severest penalties.—This caution, which was undoubtedly dictated by humanity, to prevent the introduction of a loathsome disease among an innocent people,

created a general murmur among the seamen, whose pleasure was centered in that kind of com|merce, in the new discovered islands, wherever they went.

In the afternoon the pinnace was ordered out, and the two Captains landed on the beach, where they were met by the Chiefs of the island, and more than 2000 of their subjects, not in a hostile manner, but in amity, exchanging presents, and establishing trade.

Capt. Cook made signs for water, and was con|ducted to a most delightful pool, so conveniently situated for supplying the ships, that, had not the Resolution been driven from her moorings by the violence of an easterly wind and strong current, nothing could have exceeded our entertainment at this hospitable port. We met with no obstruc|tion in watering. These people merited our best commendations in their commercial intercourse, never once attempting to cheat us, either ashore, or along-side the ships. Some of them, indeed, at first betrayed a thievish disposition; or rather they thought, that they had a right to every thing they could lay their hands on; but we soon convinced them, that this conduct was not to be suffered with impunity. One of our visitors, in the course of trade, offered some fish-hooks to sell. He was observed to have a small parcel tied to the string of one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserved for himself. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and spoke some|thing, which we could not understand; at the same time saying it was bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more questions about it. On seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents, he was re|quested to open it, which he did with great re|luctance. They found that it contained a thin

[figure] depiction of the people of the Sandwich Islands

A Man and Woman of Sandwich Islands.

p. 199.

bit of flesh, which to appearance had been dried, but was now wet with salt water. It struck us that it might be human flesh, and the question being put to him, he answered, that the flesh was part of a man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by, was then asked, whether it was their custom to eat those killed in battle, and he im|mediately answered in the affirmative. Other proofs were not wanting to confirm this abomi|nable practice; and also that they, like the Ota|heiteans, offered up human sacrifices. We found, indeed, upon further acquaintance, such a simila|rity of language, manners, customs, religious rites, and, in short, propensities of disposition, as left us no room to doubt of their once having been one and the same people. When the Resolution was forced to sea she had but half her complement of water; nor had she fresh provisions sufficient to supply her people for any length of time. We in the Dis|covery were more fortunate. In the evening of the 24th we could see the Resolution to leeward eight or nine leagues; and in the mean time, while she was beating up, we were employed in com|pleating our hold.

On the 24th, one of their great men paid a vi|sit to Capt. Clerke. He came off in a double canoe, and like the King of the Friendly Islands, paid no regard to the small canoes that lay in her way, but run against them, or over them, with|out endeavouring in the least to avoid them. His attendants helped him into the ship, and placed him on the gangway, where they stood round him, holding each other by the hands; nor would suffer any one to come near him, but Capt. Clerke himself. He was a young man, clothed from head to foot, and accompanied by a young wo|man, supposed to be his wife. His name was said

to be Tamahano. Capt. Clerke made him some suitable presents, and received from him in return, a large bowl, supported by two figures of men, the carving of which, both as to design and exe|cution, shewed some degree of skill. He could not be prevailed upon to go below; but after staying some time in the ship, he was carried again to his canoe, and returned to the island. The next day several messages were received by Capt. Clerke, inviting him to return the visit; and acquainting him, that the Chief had provided a large present on that occasion; but being anxious to get to sea and join the Resolution, the Captain did not think it adviseable to accept the invitation. This was the only Chief of note seen upon this island.

On the 25th we were in readiness to fail, and, having lost sight of the Resolution, we imagined that, not being able to fetch her former station, she had bore away to another island, which had been seen to the N. W. distance about 10 or 12 leagues.

On the 26th we weighed, directing our course to the N. W. but about ten in the morning, the man at the mast-head descried the Resolution at a great distance, bearing S. by W. whereupon we instantly tacked, and stood S. by E. to join our Commodore. This being effected, we remained several days beating up, but in vain, to regain our former birth.

On the 29th we bore away to another lee island, named Oneeheow, which abounded with hogs and fruit, and where the natives were equally hos|pitable with those we had just left, and brought from the shore every kind of provision their coun|try produced; but, there being no water to be procured at a moderate distance, and the reefs being dangerous, and the surf running high, Capt.

[figure] depiction of the people of the Sandwich Islands

A Man of the Sandwich Islands in a Mask.

page 200.

Cook, after surveying the island, and taking pos|session of it, in the name of his Royal Master, (calling the whole cluster Sandwich's Isles) was preparing to depart, when a storm came on from the eastward, and again obliged the Resolution to put to sea.

The Captain had already exchanged several presents with the Chiefs of the island, and had, in particular, presented a Chief with two she-goats and a ram; and had received in return six large hogs, with a quantity of salt, an article which, be|gan to be much wanted. He had likewise purchas|ed all such necessaries for the ship's use, as the inha|bitants could supply: and it was fortunate that he had so done, before the storm came on; for after|wards it would have been equally impossible for him to have recovered his station here, as he had found it to regain his former birth in the other harbour. Our boats, while the shore was acces|sible, were diligent in bringing on board the pro|duct of the island; so that, on the evening of

The 1st of February we had more than 250 hogs on board, with salt in abundance, besides three months allowance of sweet potatoes, bana|noes, plantains, sugar-cane, and other provisions.

Early in the morning on the 2d we weighed, and soon came in sight of the Resolution; and both ships left the island to pursue the voyage.

These islands, which lie between the latitude of 21.20. and 22.15. N. and long. 199.20. and 201.30. E. are not, in beauty and fertility, much inferior to the Friendly Islands in the southern hemisphere, nor are the inhabitants less ingenious or civilized. It is not a little astonishing, there|fore, that they should remain so long unknown to the Spaniards, as they lie, as it were, in the midway between Manilla and the Western Coasts of New

Spain, and will now probably be their rendezvous for refreshments. Except the first quarrel that happened, of which we have already spoken, we had not the least difference with any of the na|tives during our stay. What they had to dispose of they parted with upon the easiest terms; nor did they seem quite so thievishly inclined as those on the other side the line.

Every island in this group, of which there are more than we could count, appeared to be well peopled. In that which we first visited, called by the natives Ottooi, it was no uncommon thing to see between two and three thousand of the natives assemble on the beech, when any thing was to be shewn that excited their curiosity. And there we learned the names of four other islands, viz. Woahoo, Oneeheow, Oreehowe, and Tahoora; the last inhabited by birds, of which there were, as we were told, incredible numbers.

The men in these islands are of the middle size, of a dark complexion, not much tattowed, but of a lively open countenance. They were no other|wise clothed than decency required; and what they had on appeared to be their own manufacture, of which there were various fabricks, and of a va|riety of colours. Some were made with borders exactly resembling coverlets, and others appeared like printed cottons; and, besides cloth, they had many other articles which shewed that they had artificers among them not wanting in inge|nuity. One peculiarity we observed among the men, and that was, in the cut of their hair, which they trimmed up to a ridge along their heads, in form like what, in horses manes, is called hogging. Others again wore it long, plaiting it in tails, which hung below the waist; and these we took for marks of distinction among them. Add to

this, a kind of cap and short cloak worn by their Chiefs, in shape like those worn by the Ladies in England, and composed of feathers of different colours, ranged in rows, one over another, and narrowing from the lower border till they termi|nated in a kind of net-work round the neck. The brilliant colours of the feathers in those that hap|pened to be new, added not a little to their fine appearance; and we found that they were in great estimation with their owners, for they would not at first part with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no less for each than a musket. However, some were afterwards purchased for very large nails. The best sort was certainly scarce, and it should seem, were only used at their theatrical exhibitions, or other solemnities. The cap is made like a helmet, and sits very close, hav|ing notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, covered with a net-work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same manner as in the cloaks. These, with the cloaks, probably compleat the theatrical dress.

The women in general had shock hair, which they were at great pains to ornament. They had large holes in their ears, that, filled as they were, with most beautifully coloured shells made up in clusters, served for jewels, and had no bad effect. Their head-dress consisted of wreaths of flowers, decorated with feathers chiefly red; and having, in general, lively piercing black eyes, white teeth, small features, and round faces, were not a little inviting, had not Chpt. Cook's severe prohibition put a check to the predominant passion of our men.

Their dress, upon the whole, was more decent than that of the men; and few were without neck|laces and bracelets, of which they seemed very fond, and for which our strings of beads were well

suited. To their necklaces were sometimes seen small human figures of bone, hung pendant.

Their language differed but little from that of every other people we had lately visited; and we soon learnt to converse, so as to make ourselves understood.

Their manufactures the people freely sold for nails, hatchets, scissars, knives, or iron instruments of any kind; glass bowls was a valuable article; so were beads, buttons, looking-glasses, china-cups, and in short, any of our European com|modities.

Their weapons of war consisted—Of spears twelve feet long, curiously polished, and tapered; about an inch and half in diameter at top, and shod with bearded bone, about a foot in length at the lower end—Of daggers of a particular make, with which they could stab with both ends—Of bows and arrows, which seemed rather calculated for diversion for boys, than for killing enemies; their arrows being a slender reed, only about half a yard long, shod with wood—Of small battle-axes, most ingeniously fabricated of stone and wood, and neatly wrought, as were their implements of every kind—Of saws made of sharks teeth, with which they cut up the dead bodies they prepare for meat—And of slings, with which they threw stones with great force, to a great distance, but with no certain aim.

Their canoes were long and narrow; not more than two feet wide in the middle, from whence they tapered to both ends. They were strengthened by cross bars, which served both for feats and stretchers, and had small out-riggers, to prevent over-setting.

That they had some knowledge of iron before we landed among them is certain; but how they

came by it is not clearly to be accounted for; the most probable conjecture is, that it must have been drifted to their coast from some wrecks; and that opinion is strengthened, by part of an iron hoop being the only precious remains of that metal that was seen among them, which was purchased by Lieut. King. But from this small specimen, how to learn the use of it, which they certainly did, by their eagerness to purchase it? This remains to be accounted for.

Except the sugar-cane, which appeared indi|genous to these islands, and which were rare in those on the other side the line, their produce was much the same with that of the Friendly Isles, only the cocoa-nuts were by no means so large, nor in such great plenty here as at the Friendly Isles.

Wood was not to be purchased in plenty, nor did we stand much in need of that article.

Hogs, dogs, ducks, and poultry, were here in greater abundance than on the other side the line; but their plantations were not so beautifully ranged, nor so well cultivated. The houses here are warmer, as the air is colder. They are built tent-fashion, and are covered from top to bottom. Their food consists of the fruits of the earth, and of animal food, of which there was great plenty, if dogs made a part of it; nor was there any want of fish, nor of instruments to catch them.

There seems, indeed, a remarkable conformity between these islands and those of the opposite he|misphere, not only in their situations, but in their number, and in their manners, customs, religious, ceremonies, arts, and manufactures of the inhabi|tants; though it can scarce be imagined, that, as the globe is now constituted, they could ever have any communication, being at more than 2000

miles distance one from the other, with very little, if any, dry land between. One custom remark|able, they seem to have in common with the New Zealanders; and that is, pulling out one of their teeth.

From observing this general conformity among the tropical islanders, some have been led to be|lieve, that the whole middle region of the earth was once one entire continent; and that what is now the Great South Pacific Ocean, was, in the beginning, the Paradise of the World: but who|ever would wish to hear more on this subject, will do well to read Burnet's Theory of the Earth, where, if they do not find arguments solid enough to convince their reason, they will meet with rea|sons sufficiently plausible to amuse their fancy. But we must now take leave of these islands, tho' we shall have occasion to mention them again with less commendation.

Capt. Cook, the short time he remained at Atooi, visited the morais on the island, which formerly had been most magnificent structures, but were now much in decay, but still preserved all the appearances of human sacrifices; of which there is not a doubt, any more than of their eating the flesh of their enemies, which they call savoury meat.

On the 3d of February, the day after we took our departure, we had heavy squalls, but not so violent as to force us to part company.

On the 4th, it cleared up, and we pursued our course E. N. E. having pleasant weather, and a favouring gale.

On the 5th, our men had pickled pork served instead of their ordinary allowance, one pound per man a-day, with a pound and a half of yams, instead of bread; and this was continued to them

for seven weeks, which they liked much better than their ship's provisions.

Nothing material occurred till

The 9th, when there appeared the usual signs of land, but we saw none, and continued our course till

The 13th, when we tacked and stood N. N. W. lat. 30. long. 200. E. But,

On the 14th, we stood again N. by E. with a light breeze. During this interval of fine weather, our sail-makers were employed in getting up and reviewing the sails, when it was found that they were in a miserable condition, being eaten through by the rats in a hundred places. While they were employed in repairing them, our other artificers had work enough to do; for it was made a point to suffer none to remain idle, when the business of navigating the ship did not require their immediate attendance. The course we were now steering we continued with little or no variation, except what was occasioned by the shifting of the winds, till the 21st, when in lat. 39. long. 209. E. we short|tened sail, and steered N. N. W. the whole night, having had strong signs of land to the Eastward the whole day; but no land coming in sight, we again renewed our course, and so continued till

The 26th, when a most dreadful storm arose, with such a swell, that though we were not more than half a mile from the Resolution, we fre|quently lost sight of her amidst the heavy seas. In this gale, both ships suffered considerably in their sails and rigging, it being impossible to hand them before we were surprised by the tempest. We were now in lat. 43.17. and in long. 221.9. and were attended by seals, sea-lions, man-of-war birds, Port Egmont hens, shags, and sea-gulls, which were strong indications of land.

On the morning of the 27th, the wind abated but the swell still continued from the Southward and we proceeded under close reefed top-sails til about ten in the morning, when we shook out the reefs, and made all the sail we could, in company with the Resolution.

March the 1st, the wind died away, and being in lat. 44.49. and long. 228. E. we sounded with 180 fathom, but found no bottom. We now be|gan to feel the effects of an alteration in the cli|mate. From intense heat, it became piercing cold; and our men, who despised their Magellan jackets, while within the temperate climates, now first began to find the comfort of them in these Northern regions.

On the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed covered with a kind of slime, and my|riads of small sea animals were seen swimming about, which they did with equal ease upon their backs, sides, or bellies; and as they varied their position with respect to the light, they emitted the brightest colours of the most precious gems. Sometimes they appeared quite pellucid, at other times assuming various tints of blue, from a pale sappharine to a deep violet colour, which were frequently mixed with a ruby or opaline redness, and glowed with a strength sufficient to illuminate the vessel and water; these colours appeared most vivid, when the glass into which these animalcula were placed, was held to a strong light, but had only a brownish cast when the animals had sub|sided to the bottom. With candle-light, the colour was chiefly a beautiful pale green; and in the dark they had a faint appearance of glowing fire. Mr. Anderson supposed them a new species of animalcula, which have a share in producing that

lucid appearance often observed near ships at sea in the night.

On the 5th, being moderate weather, we sounded, and at 56 fathoms found bottom, loamy sand and shells. At six in the evening, we short|ened sail, and stood all night S. one half W. with the water as white as milk.

On the 6th, both ships wore and stood N. by E. shortening sail in the evening, and standing all night to the Southward.

On the 7th, we made the land. Cape Blanco, the Westernmost known point of California, bear|ing E. N. E. then distant about 8 or 9 leagues. It appeared mountainous, and covered with snow. This day the gentlemen in the gun-room dined on a fricassee of rats, which they accounted a venison feast; and it was a high treat to the sai|lors, whenever they could be lucky enough to catch a number sufficient to make a meal.

On the 8th, we wore ship, and stood N. E. by E. lat. 44.23. long. 233.5. E. We had heavy squalls, with snow and rain. We continued working off land, making little or no way to wind|ward. In the evening, we close reefed our top-sails, and within half an hour could not shew an inch of sail, except fore and mizen stay-sails. The storm continued all night, and part of the next day, without the least abatement.

Early in the morning of the 9th, saw the Reso|lution to windward, and at eight came in sight of Cape Blanco, bearing N. by W. distant about three leagues. At ten tacked ship, and stood off land, both ships in company, lat. 43.10. long. 232.4. E.

On the 10th, both ships stood again for the land, which we could see at a great distance. At six in the evening, the land being distant about a

league, we wore ship, and stood off all night, Lost sight of the Resolution, lat. 43.41. long. 232.50.

On the 11th, she answered our signals, and we were soon in company; but the sea running mountains high, and the wind increasing a strong gale, we stood N. by E. the wind at E. by N. and about two in the afternoon, the Cape bore N. E. by E. distant about six leagues. Here the wind being somewhat abated, and the sea having changed its colour, we sounded at 160 fathom, but no bottom. Both ships stood again W. S. W. all night with little wind, but great swells from the Eastward, lat. 43.39. long. 231.19.

On the 12th, light winds, which continued all the morning with snow and sleet. At two in the afternoon, both ships stood S. by W. with a stiff breeze. At six wore ship, and stood N. wind E. N. E. At ten, course N. N. E. wind W. by S. and so continued all night, lat. 43.2. long. 231.57.

On the 13th, about eight in the morning, we wore ship, and stood W. by S. heavy rain, and snow. At noon split the mizen top-mast stay-sail. At night, course W. S. W. wind variable. Lat. 43.32. long. 230.52.

On the 14th, at six in the morning, wore ship, and stood N. by E. wind N. W. by W. Strong gale, with snow and rain. About three in the af|ternoon, the wind abated. Stood for the land, then distant 6 or 7 leagues, bearing N. E. by E. lat. 43.9. long. 231.55.

On the 15th, wore ship, and stood N. half W. the wind E. N. E. all the morning. In the after|noon, heavy squalls, with rain. About four, split the main top-sail. At six, close reefed the top-sails, and stood all night N. N. E. with heavy

rains, and a strong gale. Till this day, the yams on board our ship lasted; but now bread was de|livered out to the ship's company in their stead, at two-thirds allowance. All well, and in perfect health, notwithstanding the severe service. Lat. 43.9. long. 229.34.

On the 16th, it cleared up, and the wind being moderate, we made sail N. ½ E. the wind at W. S. W. At ten in the morning, finding the water to change colour, we sounded at 17 fathom, and looking a-head, saw a large reef, not above two cables length before us. We fired a gun as signal to the Resolution, and had just time and room to escape the danger. Had it been night, in two minutes we must all have perished. We tacked, and stood to the Southward till the morning of

The 17th, when we came in sight of land, bearing N. E. by E. distance eight or nine leagues, high, and whited over with snow. The weather was this day so altered, that the gentlemen who delighted in the sport, diverted themselves in the boats with shooting ducks, shags, sea-larks, and gulls; and next morning,

The 18th, we continued to steer along shore, the land not more than three miles distant; saw no inhabitants, but very large trees, and bleak mountains covered with snow. About twelve at noon we hauled upon a wind, and stood W. by N. wind S. W. by S. As we found the coast rugged with high rocks above water, we suspected other rocks below. We therefore kept at a con|venient distance from the land, and opened upon several fine inlets and close harbours, but no en|trance for ships of burden. Lat. 44.49. long. 231.50.

On the 19th, made sail early in the morning, and stood N. N. E. coasting it along shore, the

land high and mountainous. We heard howlings of wild beasts, but saw none. The shores were covered with sea-fowl, and the skirts of the woods with land birds of various kinds.

On the 20th, the weather still continuing fine, we pursued our course N. N. E. with light winds from the S. E. till two in the afternoon, when the clouds began to darken, and the rain pour down in torrents. At five it blew a stiff gale, and at night a fog arose, when we soon lost sight of the Resolution. At ten it blew a hurricane. We close reefed our top-sails, lowered our top-gallant yards, and stood W. S. W. wind S. firing guns, and hoisting lights as signals to the Resolution; but not being answered, we lay to till morning, with the ship's head to the South, lat. 45.22. long. 231.42.

On the 21st, as soon as it was day-light, we saw the Resolution bearing N. N. W. distant about four miles. We made sail, and soon came up with her: the wind abating, we pursued our course N. one-half W. and before noon, lost sight of land, as it trended to the East. About four in the afternoon, the weather altered, and a heavy snow came on, which soon filled the decks, the flakes being such as no man on board had ever seen before, and as broad as a small saucer. Be|fore it was dark it turned to rain, and so continued with gusts of wind during the night.

On the 22d, we came again in sight of land, bearing N. by E. distant about five or six leagues, covered with snow, and abounding with trees of an immense height; as we neared it, we observed several smokes far up the country; but before we reached the shore, a sudden storm came on, more violent than any we had yet met with on this tempestuous coast. Before we had time to hand

the sails, it split the jib, carred away the stay, and shivered the main top-mast stay-sails to frit|ters. As night approached, we furled the courses and lay too under bare poles.

On the 23d in the morning the wind abated, and the weather cleared up. We made sail to the Southward; but before dark it again began to blow with heavy rain. We stood all night with the ship's head S. one-half W. with starboard tacks on board. No observation.

On the 24th we tacked ship and stood N. N. E. the wind at N. W. by N. a steady breeze; we shook out our reefs and made sail. Such and so variable was the weather on Drake's New Albion coast. From a hard gale, which increas|ed to a hurricane, not being able to shew an inch of sail for several hours, the sea running to a tremendous height, the ship rolling till the yard-arms almost reached the water, it all at once cleared up, moderate and fine gales took place, and so continued the whole day. We were now by observation in lat. 47.25. long. 230.1. As night approached the clouds began to lour, and to threaten another storm: but except some snow and hail which fell in the night, nothing re|markable happened till

The 25th, when a thick fog arose, and we lost sight of the Resolution; but before night we were again in company. About six in the even|ing it came on to blow hard with heavy showers; we wore ship and stood to the Southward, the rain continuing the whole night.

On the 26th, at five in the morning, we had a heavy fall of snow, which lasted four hours, with piercing winds the whole day. About ten we bore away, and stood N. N. W. the wind at N. E. In the evening we tacked ship and

stood to the Southward. We were now in lat. 48.28. long. 228.40.

On the 27th, at six in the morning, stood W. by N. with a stiff breeze. At ten it became very heavy and dark. We stood N. by E. the wind shifted to E. by N. and a calm succeeded. But about six in the evening the wind freshened, and before we could hand the canvas, split the fore-top-sail.

Early on the 28th, it blowing very hard, we close-reefed our top-sails, and stood N. N. E. the wind at E. This day we saw three men of war birds, two Port Egmont hens, several seals, and sea-lions, with some whales. Lat. 49.6. long. 228.18.

On the 29th, at two in the morning, it still continued to blow very hard. We tacked, and stood S. S. W. till seven in the morning, when the weather cleared up, and the wind rather abated. We shook out our reefs, and made sail N. by E. with a light breeze from E. by N. At ten the man at the mast-head saw land, bearing from E. S. E. to W. N. W. distance five or six leagues. At half after one, P. M. we bore away N. E. by E. for a bay, which we thought we saw to the Eastward. As we approached it, we observed several smokes and fires a consider|able way within land. At length, after a series of the most tempestuous weather that any ships ever experienced for so long a time, we discover|ed an inlet, the mouth of which was not more than two miles over; in which we entered, and found it a sound, which narrowed as we advan|ced, though it still continued of a considerable depth. About seven in the evening we anchored in ninety-seven fathom water, and was presently joined by the Resolution. We made signs for

some of the natives to come on board; but this they declined, though some hundreds soon came about the ships, to which they appeared to be no strangers, as they give us to understand, that iron was what they valued most. We observed likewise, that their weapons were headed with copper, and their arrows with iron, which they could obtain only from the Russians, or from trade with the Hudson's Bay Company. Though they declined coming on board, they were ne|vertheless very civil; and when they took their leave, saluted us with a war-song. We were now so far advanced to the Northward and Eastward, as to have reached that void space in our maps, which is marked as a country unknown.

Early in the morning of the 30th, the boats were armed and manned, and both Captains proceeded to examine the Sound, in order to find a convenient place to refit the ships, which had suffered materially in the violent gales, which for the last twenty days they had been combating, at the hazard of being hourly dashed to pieces upon the rocks, or stranded upon the shores.

In their progress they were fortunate enough to discover a cove, the most convenient that could be wished; the entrance of which was about two cables length, bounded by high land on each side, and furnished with wood and water (now much wanted) so conveniently situated, that both could be taken on board at less than a cable's length from the shore; but, though now within the distance of four miles, it was four o'clock in the evening before we could get the ships properly moored, owing to the uncertainty of the weather, and the violent gusts to which this coast is subject. All this while the Indians behaved peaceably, and apparently with much

friendship. They brought, after a short ac|quaintance, a great variety of valuable skins, such as beaver, foxes, racoons, squirrels, rein|deer, bears, and several others, with which we were but little acquainted; but what they chiefly desired in exchange, were cutlery wares of all sorts, edge-tools, copper, pewter, iron, brass, or any kind of metal, with the use of which they were not unacquainted. All our people were now employed in the necessary repairs of the ships, and in cutting wood and getting water on board, while the gentlemen diverted themselves in shoot|ing and botanizing.

On the 1st of April, about four in the even|ing, there entered the cove a large canoe, in which were thirty armed Indians, who, on their first appearance, began a war-song, and when they had finished, took to their paddles, and rowed round the ships, having first stript them|selves of their clothing, except one man, who stood upright in the vessel, delivering an oration, of which not a man on board could understand a word. They paddled round the ships several times, as if led by curiosity; but did not offer to molest any of the workmen, nor did they offer to trade. But all hands being instantly ordered un|der arms, these new visitors were seen to clothe themselves as before, and to make towards the ships. The Orator made not the least hesitation, but mounted the ship's side, and accosted the Captain with much civility, and after receiving some presents, and stopping a little while to ob|serve the artificers, he took a very polite leave, descended to his boat, and was landed on the op|posite shore of the Sound.

On the 3d, a large body of Indians were seen paddling along the Sound, mostly armed with

spears from 20 to 30 feet long, and with bows and arrows very neatly made. On their nearer approach they too were heard to tune up their war-song, and to brandish their weapons, as if in defiance of an enemy. Their number was alarming; there being not less than between 3 and 400 of them in their war canoes, who we ap|prehended were come to attack us; but we after|wards understood they were come to attack a bo|dy of their enemies on the opposite shore, whom they afterwards engaged, and returned victorious. We were frequently visited by such parties, who appeared always in arms, but never offered the least violence. They brought, besides skins, great quantities of fish, with plenty of game, which we purchased of them for glass bowls, looking-glasses, nails, hatchets, or whatever uten|sils or toys were either useful or ornamental.

The men were of an athletic make, very rough to appearance, but more civilized than from their aspect there was reason to expect. To iron they gave the name of te-tum-miné, and to other me|tals ché-à-poté.

On the 5th, the water, which was excellent, was so conveniently situated, that by erecting a stage, and constructing a spout, we could convey it in casks into the ships without farther trou|ble. This facilitated the labour of the waterers, and shortened our stay, as wood was conveyed on board with very little more trouble.

On the 6th it blew a storm, and the tide came rolling in at an alarming rate; it presently rose eight or nine feet higher than usual, and drifted several of our materials from the shore, which we never could recover; and at nine in the morn|ing the Discovery drifted very near the Resolu|tion, and very narrowly escaped being bulged.

On the 7th, the artificers again resumed their labour. The natives continued their visits, and besides fish, furs, and venison, brought bladders of oil, which were greedily purchased by the men. With this they made sauce for their salt-fish, and no butter in England was ever thought half so good.

During our stay here, which was but very short, owing to the time lost in making the land, and the advanced season of the year, no people could be more obliging; they were ready to accompany the gentlemen, who delighted in shooting, in their excursions, and to shew them the different de|vices they made use of to catch and to kill their game; they sold them their masks, their calls, and their gins, and made no secret of their me|thods of curing the skins, with which they carried on a traffic with occasional visitors; in short, a more open and communicative people does not live under the sun. They have, besides sea-fowl in abundance, swans, eagles, and a variety of o|ther land-fowl, of which we had never seen the species. Nor were their fishermen more reserved than their hunters; they pointed out the haunts of the different sorts of fish, and they were not averse to helping their new acquaintance to com|pleat their lading, whenever they had been unsuc|cessful in filling their boats.

They had not hitherto discovered any disposi|tion to pilfer; but on the 10th day, after our arrival, several of them being on board, and our people having no suspicion of their honesty, one of them watched his opportunity to slip into the great cabin, and carry off the Captain's watch; which being soon missed, all the Indians on board were seized, their boats secured and searched; and at length it was found hid in a box on board

one of their canoes, which the offender delivered up without the least concern. This watch, had the thief been permitted to carry it off, would pro|bably have been parted with to the first sailor he had met with for a single nail. About the same time another Indian made free with a bolt from the armourer's forge; but was seen in the fact, and an endeavour made to wrest it from him; but he instantly jumped over-board, and gave it to one of his companions, who was making off with it, till fired at with small shot, which brought him back; and he surrendered it, but with such a fierceness expressed in his countenance, as suffi|ciently indicated his intent. In a moment, every Indian in the cove disappeared, and in less than three hours more than 900 of them assembled in the Sound, and being unclothed, (which is their custom when they mean to engage) began their war-song, and approached the ships. We were in readiness to give them a warm reception; but seeing our preparations, and perhaps not liking our countenance, they all laid down their arms, and putting on their clothes, came peaceably round the ship, without offering the least incivility.

Being in great want of masts, most of those we brought out with us being sprung, our car|penters were sent into the woods to cut down such trees as they should find fit for their pur|pose. This they did without the least interrup|tion from any of the inhabitants. They found trees from 100 to 150 feet high, without a knot, and measuring from 40 to 60 feet in circumfe|rence. In these trees the eagles build their nests. When they had cut down what best suited their purpose, the great difficulty was to bring them to the ships; and in this labour they were assisted by the natives. It was now their spring, and

the weather began to change for the better. When we first arrived the thermometer was as low as 38½, and now

This 20th day of April it is as high as 62 de|grees. We have at present the full range of the woods, the snow all melted away, and the rivers open. We found plenty of game, and catched fish in abundance.

April 22. This morning we were visited by a large body of Indians, who had come from a great distance with furs, and other articles of trade. These were warmly clothed with cloaks of valuable furs, that reached down to their ancles; and among them was a stately youth, to whom the rest paid great respect. Him our Captain invited on board, which he at first de|clined; but after shewing him some axes, glass bowls, looking-glasses, and other articles that excited his curiosity, he suffered himself to be handed into the ship, where he staid some time, admiring every thing he saw. While these con|tinued to trade, it was remarked, that no other Indians came in sight; but they had hardly left the ship, when another body of Indians appeared, more than double the number of the former, who hemmed them all into the cove, and stript them of every thing they had about them, and then came and traded with us.

At the same time a chief, who had attached him|self to Capt. Cook, came on board to take his leave, and received a present, for which in return he presented a beaver-skin of much greater value. This called upon the Captain to make a consi|derable addition to his present, with which the chief was so pleased, that he pulled off his beaver-skin cloak, and laid it at his feet. Struck with this instance of generosity, the Captain fetched him a

new broad sword with a brass-hilt, which made this chief compleatly happy.

On the 26th, having finished the repairs of the ships, we began to prepare for our departure; the tents were ordered to be brought on board, the astronomers observatory, and what live-stock we had yet left; and as the last service to be per|formed, we cut grass for their subsistence, which we were fortunate enough to find in plenty, and to have a pretty good time to make it into hay. We also, by the assistance of Mr. Nelson, whose busi|ness, as has already been observed, was to collect the vegetable and other curious productions of the countries through which we passed, were en|abled to stock ourselves with a large proportion of culinary plants, which was of infinite service to us in our more northerly progress. And now having all things in readiness we began to tow out of the cove into the Sound, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of King George's Sound, and with a light breeze and clear weather to pro|ceed on our voyage: but we had scarce reached the Sound, when a violent gust from E. S. E. threw us into the utmost confusion. All our boats were out, our decks full of lumber, and night com|ing on dark and foggy, our danger was equal to any we had hitherto met with in the course of the voyage; though an especial Providence seemed to attend us, and to interpose in our favour: for by this storm a leak was discovered in the Reso|lution, which, had it been calm weather, would probably have proved fatal to the crew. Hav|ing cleared the Sound, we shaped our course to the Westward, and so continued till day-light, when, seeing nothing of the Resolution, we shortened sail; and before noon she came in sight, seemingly in distress. The storm continuing,

we pursued our course to the North-westward, till

May 1st, when the weather became fair, and we proceeded with a pleasant breeze. Being now at leisure to recollect what observations oc|curred at the harbour we have just left, the cu|rious reader will not be displeased with a short relation. When we first arrived in the Sound, the rough countenance of the men seemed to promise no very agreeable entertainment during our stay; but when they saw our distress, and that we only meant to repair our ships, so far from giving us any disturbance, they gave us every assistance in their power. They supplied us regularly with fish; and, when they found that our men liked their oil, they brought it in bladders, and exchanged it for whatever they were pleased to give in return. They discovered no propensity to thieve, till they found we were preparing to depart, and then they were so co|vetous of our goods, that they could not resist the temptation, when a fair opportunity offered, to carry off whatever fell in their way.

The cove, in which we anchored, we found to lie in 49 deg. 33 min. N. and in 233 deg. 16 min. E. but whether the Ruffian discove|ries had reached so far, we could not be able to determine: that the inhabitants were no stran|gers to the use of iron and other metals was, as has already been observed, visible on our first ap|proach; but by their manner of using what they possessed, it was not easy to discover from what quarter it came. In the situation we were in, we did not think it safe to venture far into the coun|try, having no spare hands to attend us. Of their houses we saw but few; and of their manner of living we know but little. That they eat the

[figure] depiction of the people of the Soolka Sound

A Man and Woman of Soolka Sound.

p. 223. 224.

flesh of their enemies, we had some reason to sup|pose, by observing a human head in one of their canoes, and arms and limbs in another; but that fish, and the flesh of the animals they catch in hunting, are the principal part of their food, is not to be doubted. Their bread is made from the roes of fish, but in what manner they prepare it, we could not learn; their sauces chiefly sea-blub|ber or oil. We saw none of their houses near the shore, by which it should seem that their win|ters are severe, and that they chuse the recesses of the woods, for shelter as well as safety. The few houses we saw were all built of wood, and hung round with dried fish, and skins of various animals. They have different masks for different purposes; some they put on when they go to war, which are really frightful; some that cover their whole bodies, and give them the appearance of the animals they are in pursuit of, whose cries, while, they are young, they are taught to imitate; they have decoys excellently adapted for entrap|ping both fish and fowl; and they have snares likewise for snaring wild beasts, and contrivances for killing and curing them as soon as they are catched.

We saw no plantations which exhibited the least trace of knowledge in the cultivation of the earth; all seemed to remain in a pure state of na|ture; shrubs there were in the woods that put forth blossoms, and trees that promised in time to bring forth fruit; but except some currant bushes, wild rasberries and junipers, we saw none bearing fruit that were known to any but Mr. Nelson.

The men were not ill made, but they disfigured themselves with grease and coarse paint; they were of a dark copper-colour, with lank black

hair, which they tied in a knot behind; but they so bepowdered, or rather befeathered it with down, that the colour was hardly discernible: their clothing was a cloak made of skins of beasts, which covered them from the neck to their knees, and gave them a savage appearance; some of them wore high fur caps, but the Chiefs among them had their heads dressed in a more becoming manner. In that consisted their chief distinction. Their heads were bound round with fillets, deco|rated with feathers, which adds so striking a grace to the human figure, that almost every nation in the known world have agreed in making plumes of feathers a part of their warriors uniform. Their weapons of war were spears from 20 to 30 feet long; their bows about three feet and a half; their arrows two feet, pointed with bone or flint, some few with iron; but they had one horrid weapon peculiar to themselves, resembling a man's head with hair; it had eyes and nose, but where the mouth should be, a sharp piece of bone or flint about six inches long was firmly mortised and ce|mented; in the neck part was a hole, through which they passed a strong cord, and fastened it to the right arm; this we saw none of the warriors without; many of them had besides, a knife about twelve inches long, of which they were very choice. We saw no musical instruments among them; but some had musical voices, and seemed fond of dancing and tumbling in a bearish way. Their canoes were of an uncommon length, many of them from 30 to 40 yards long, made of the main body of one of their enormous trees, of which we have already spoken; their breadth from four to five feet over in the middle, and gradually narrowing, like all others, to both ends, but the stem much higher than the stern. They were

strengthened by bars of wood, or stretchers, placed across at certain distances, and were rowed by paddles about six feet long, swelling from the middle, but sharp at the lower ends. Some of those canoes were roughly carved and painted with the figures of the sun, moon, and stars, probably the objects of their worship; but what was remark|able, they had no out-riggers to prevent their oversetting, like those of the southern isles.

The women are much more delicate than the men, and dress in cloaks curiously woven with the hair of wild beasts, intermixed with the most beautiful furs. We saw but few of them during our stay, and those who came in sight were rather in years; they were, however, much fairer than the men; and even fairer than many of the men we had on board. Their employment seems chiefly confined at home. We saw none of them employed in fishing, nor did we meet any of them in the woods. Besides the care of their children, and the manufacturing and making the clothing, they may probably assist in curing and preparing the skins, with which these people certainly carry on a traffic with strangers; though of that trade, for want of understanding their language, we could not sufficiently inform ourselves. Be that as it may, when we left the harbour, we had more than 300 beaver skins on board, besides other less valuable skins, of foxes, racoons, wolves, bears, deer, and several other wild animals; for dogs excepted, we saw no other domestic creatures about them.

On May the 1st, in the morning, the weather being fine, we spoke with the Resolution, who informed us of the danger they were in of foun|dering in the late gale, by a leak, which increased so fast upon them, that it baffled the utmost ef|forts

of all the hands they had on board; gaining upon them considerably, though every man in the ship, even to the Captain, took it in turn to work at the pumps; but what was astonishing, it had now stopt of itself, without the carpenter's being able to discover either the cause or the cure. However, Capt. Cook gave us to understand, that he intended to put in at the first harbour he should fall in with.

We were now in high spirits, not dreaming of the hardships we had yet to suffer, and we pursued our course at a great rate. Before night we were in lat. 54.44. N. and in long. 224.44. E. with whole flocks of sea-fowl flying over our heads; among which were strings of geese and swans, all flying to the southward. We had other indications of land, and on

The 2d we came in sight of a high mountain, being then in lat. 57.3. and in long. 224.7. E. This mountain Capt. Cook named Mount Edgecomb.

On the 3d, at half an hour after four in the morning, Mount Edgecomb, bore S. 54. E. a large inlet N. 50. E. distant six leagues; and the most advanced point of the land to the N. W. lying under a very high peeked mountain, which obtained the name of Mount Fair Weather, bore N. 52. W. This inlet was called Cross Sound, as being first seen on that day, so marked in our ca|lendar. At noon the lat. was 58.22. and the long. 220.55. We continued our course to the north-westward as the land trended, till the 10th, when we opened on a very high island, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Kaye Island, in ho|nour of his friend the Rev. Dr. Kaye, Sub|almoner to his Majesty. A point shoots out from the main towards this island, to which the Captain

gave the name of Cape Suckling. This island, on examination, was found barren, and destitute of inhabitants. This we left to the southward, and continued our course, in hopes of discovering some harbour where the Resolution might exa|mine her leaks. We were now in lat. 59.51. and in long. 215.56. the land high and mountainous, and covered with snow. At four in the afternoon, we came in sight of Cape Elias, a vast promontory, that seemed to cover its head in the clouds. It bore from us S. ½ W.

On the 11th we had a flask calm, which lasted for the space of four hours, during which all hands were employed, officers as well as men, in fishing, shooting, or chasing the seals, and sea-lions that played about the ships. Great quantities of fine cod were caught, which furnished a high treat to both ships companies; and some docks, sea-larks, and four sea-parrots, were killed by the fowlers. In the evening a fresh breeze sprang up, and we coasted along shore, but saw no inhabitants, though many fires were observed in the night within land. In our course we passed a bay, named by Capt. Cook Comptrollers Bay. Lat. 60.15. long. 215.15.

On the 12th we hauled up to double a cape, to which our Commodore gave the name of Cape Hinchinbroke, and saw the land trending very much to the northward. About 3, A. M. we tacked, steering N. N. W. and at nine in the morning, opened a large strait, the entrance of which appeared to be about four miles. About four in the afternoon we entered the mouth of the strait, and met a strong current that set to the southward to oppose our progress; having a stiff breeze, and the wind much in our favour, we with difficulty stemmed the tide, and before six in the evening, the Resolution opened a close harbour

or bay, that trended to the eastward, round a bluff point of high land, and was soon followed by the Discovery. Here both ships cast anchor close under the lee of the land, which we had scarce ac|complished, before the boats were ordered out, and some, eager to haul the seine, and others to go a shooting, were impatient to begin, when un|expectedly they were alarmed by four canoes, in which were between 20 and 30 Indians not more than two miles distant, and rowing with all their might towards the boats, who not being prepared for such an attack, made the best of their way back to the ships. As the Indians neared the boats, they began their war-song, as their custom is, and brandishing their arms, denounced defiance; but by this time other boats armed from the ships, had joined the sportsmen, who were now so near the ships as to be out of danger. The Indians had then time to cool; they retreated to the op|posite side of the harbour, and in a very little time returned, with a white cloak displayed as a signal of peace, which was answered by a white flag; and then they came on board without the least ce|remony. Their features, size and colour differed little from those we had just left in George's Sound; but they had a slit between their lower lip and chin, through which they could put their tongue, that gave them the appearance of having a double mouth. Add to this, the ornaments they wore in their noses and ears, of tin and copper, and no figures upon earth could be more gro|tesque. However, they behaved civilly, and it being near night they took their leave, promising to visit us again in the morning; which they ac|cordingly did, bringing with them the very same forts of skins which we had purchased of the In|dians at our former harbour, and which they rea|dily

parted with for any thing made of iron, though they were rather choice. These were clothed with the skins of birds neatly sewed together, and they had besides a covering madelike parchment, which in rainy or snowy weather was water proof, so that no wet could affect them. Their ordinary canoes too had coverings of the same kind.

They had some instruments for fishing, which we did not observe among the more southerly Indians; such as harpoons, and gigs, all of which they were very ready to part with, as well as their clothing, of which, though valuable to us, they made but little account. These were chiefly pur|chased by the sailors for glass beads, who found them warmer, and better adapted to the climate than any of their other clothing. They had spears also, and lances headed with iron, very neatly ma|nufactured, and knives, which they kept as bright as silver; but these they refused to exchange for any thing we offered.

In the morning of the 13th, we weighed, and pursued our course to the northward up the strait all day, with the pleasing hope of having found the passage of which we were in search. In our way we passed several very fine rivers that emptied their waters into that which we were now explor|ing. About four in the afternoon, we came to an anchor in 18 fathom water, and were surrounded with Indians who came to plunder; but finding us on our guard, they sneaked off without their booty. Here, being safely moored just opposite to a small rivulet of excellent water, the boats were ordered out to fill the empty casks, and the car|penters from both ships were set to work to find out the leak in the Resolution; and after a most painful search, a hole was discovered in the ship's side, eaten quite through by the rats; which, by

the working of the ship in the storm, had provi|dentially filled with rubbish, and thereby pre|vented her foundering. So said our Journalist, but Capt. Cook observes, that the seams were open, both in and under the wale; and in seve|ral places not a bit of oakum in them.

On the 14th, while we were employed on this necessary service, we were visited by crowds of In|dians, persuading us to proceed; but our pinnace being ordered out, with boats to attend her, in order to examine the strait, it was found to be only an inlet, through which there was no passage for ships or other vessels to any considerable distance. Lat. 60.53.

To our great disappointment, therefore, after continuing here eight days, during which time every part of the sound had been examined, and the country for several miles round reconnoitred, we took leave of this sound (to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Prince William's Sound) to the great joy of the ships companies, who with work|ing the ships up one day and down another, as wind and tide served, were almost worn down with hard labour, though none were sick; nor did any accident happen to any, except to William Austin, who unfortunately had his leg broke by lifting an anchor out of the boat to launch it overboard, and being entangled in the buoy-rope, went down with it in 22 fathom water, but came up again without any hurt, and was afterwards, by the care of the Surgeon, perfectly cured.

On the 16th, when the weather, which had been foggy, cleared up, we found ourselves sur|rounded by land on every side, and sheltered in a nook, called Snug Corner Bay, and a snug corner it certainly was.

On the 17th, Mr. Gore, from the Resolution, was sent to examine the northern arm of the inlet,

[figure] depiction of the people of Prince William's Sound

A Man and Woman of Prince William's Sound.

p. 230.

and Mr. Bligh, the master, to take an easterly di|rection; this last found the arm, he went to exa|mine, to terminate in a group of islands; Mr. Gore reported that his arm was open, and probably a passage might be found; but Mr. Roberts, who accompanied him, was of opinion, that he saw the end of the inlet; this to Capt. Cook rendered the passage very doubtful; and being willing to pur|sue his voyage to the North while the season was yet favourable, he resolved to waste no more time in a fruitless search.

On the 20th, having the weather fine and the wind fair, we returned to sea, not by the same channel, but by one more to the westward than that by which we entered. It was separated from the other by an island, extending 18 leagues, in the direction of North-east and South-west, to which the Commodore gave the name of Mon|tague Island; and the intermediate islands, because of their verdures, he called Green Islands.

Early on the 21st a storm came on, which ob|liged us to lay to with the ship's head to the eastward; but in the afternoon it abated, and about five we came up with the southernmost promontory [Cape Elizabeth] which we had seen the day before, and opened on a fine bay, which trended full to the westward, with very high land on both sides.

In the morning of the 22d we tacked, and stood to the westward, and still saw the land trend very much to the southward. Lat. 59.7. long. 208.26.

On the 23d, the weather being clear and plea|sant, and there being little or no wind, the boats were ordered out, and all hands were employed in fishing, except the Gentlemen, who preferred the diversion of shooting.

On the 24th a stiff breeze sprung up, attended with very heavy squalls, with snow and rain, in which we carried away our main top-gallant-mast in the slings, and received other damage in our sails and rigging. This day we passed a deal of land to the westward, which appeared to us like islands, (among which was that called Cape Her|mogenes,) mostly very high; we continued steer|ing as the land trended, and examining every bay and inlet as we passed along. Lat. 58.26.

On the 25th we altered our course, to N. by W. the land trending away to N. E. high and mountainous. At noon we passed some large islands, bearing from W. S. W. to N. W. and which obtained the name of Barren Isles, and soon after came in sight of a lofty promontory, whose ele|vated summit, forming two exceedingly high mountains, was seen above the clouds. To this promontory Capt. Cook gave the name of Cape Douglas, in honour of his good friend Dr. Doug|las, Canon of Windsor.

On the 26th, at 3 A. M. we perceived one continued chain of mountains, to the highest of which was given the name of Mount St. Augustine; and saw two very high burning mountains at a considerable distance. We kept steering to the northward, as we saw no land a-head, by reason of a great fog; but as soon as the fog cleared up, we found ourselves in the entrance of a vast river, supposed to be about four miles over, with a strong current setting to the southward, lat. 59.8.

On the 27th we found the river to widen as we advanced, and the land to flatten. We continued under an easy sail all day and the following night, sounding as we advanced from 30 to 40 fathom, shelly bottom and white sand. We were once more flattered with having found the passage, 〈◊〉〈◊〉

which we were in pursuit, being now in the lati|tude of 60 degrees north.

On the 28th, in the morning, we sounded at 24 fathom, the tide still setting strong to the southward at the rate of five and six knots an hour; but the wind dying away, the signal was made for casting anchor, when both ships came to in 26 fathom water; but the Resolution ex|pecting to come to with her small stream anchor, let the whole run out, and lost both anchor and hauser, besides the ship's grapnel in looking for it. About 8 at night, the signal was made to weigh and sail; but at ten the current ran so strong, that both ships were again obliged to cast anchor in 24 fathom, bottom same as before. It was now light all night, and we could perceive the river to make N. N. W. very rapid. lat. 60.5.

On the 29th we made sail with a fresh wind, and advanced apace, but on trying the water we found a great alteration from salt to fresh. This day we were visited by several Indians, who brought skins of wolves, foxes, squirrels, deer, and some few beaver, which they exchanged for tri|fles. In the night we observed they made large fires; but the flames from the two burning moun|tains seemed to darken their light. We were now close under them, and the roaring they made was infinitely more terrifying than the most tremen|dous thunder. They are of an immense height, and rise in the form of sugar-loaves, and bore N. and S. of each other, and are called by the natives, Ea-neb-kay. We found regular soundings all this day, till opening into a large wide extended bay, the water shallowed, and we cast anchor in nine fathom water, brown sand and shells as before.

On the 30th, the boats were ordered out, and after a fruitless search to find a passage, sounding from two to four fathom, with the water brackish, they returned in the morning, and were taken on board. In the evening, they renewed their labour, sounding to the north eastward, as the day before they had sounded in the opposite direction.

On the 31st, the Resolution plyed higher up, and came to an anchor in 16 fathom water, and found the ebb already begun. It ran only three knots an hour, and fell upon a perpendicular 22 feet. Here they saw an opening between the mountains, and were in doubt whether the open|ing did not take an easterly direction through the above opening; or whether that opening was only a branch of it, and that the main channel con|tinued its northern direction. Next day Mr. Bligh, the master, reported, that he had found the inlet contracted to the breadth of one league by low land, through which it continued its northerly direction; that he proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigable for the largest ships; but the water, as it ran down, fresh. He landed on an island, that, it should seem, divided this main channel, and a branch that had an easterly course, upon which he found current bushes, with the fruit already (June) set; and some other fruit-trees unknown to him. About three leagues beyond this, he ob|served another separation in the eastern chain of mountains, but still thought the main channel preserved its northern direction. To get a nearer view of the eastern branch, the Resolution weigh|ed, and plyed up before high water; but the wind being contrary, he was obliged to cast an|chor, and having dispatched two boats to make observations, and examine the tides, they found

that the flood set strong into the eastern branch, which Capt. Cook distinguished by the name of River Turnagain; and that the ebb came out with still greater force. Being now convinced, that no passage was to be expected by this river, any more than by the main branch, Capt. Cook gave orders to Mr. King to land on the northern point of the low land, there to display the flag, and take possession of the country and river, and to bury in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin, of the year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. In the mean time, a party of us, with officers, attended by a serjeant's guard of marines, landed on the easternmost shore, in order to reconnoitre the country. We had pro|ceeded more than four miles without seeing one inhabitant, and were going to scour the woods for game, when a body of Indians, to the number of forty or fifty, rushed out of an adjoining thicket, all armed after their manner with bows and spears; a few of our marines discharged their pieces over their heads, which instantly stopt their career; and they were retreating as rapidly as they came on, when the officer, who had the command, advancing singly grounded his piece, and made signs for them to halt. One who seemed to have the command of the rest, turning suddenly about, observed his motions, and understood them; and calling to the rest, they all stopt, and, after a short consultation, laid down their arms, and stripping themselves quite naked, laid their clothes down by them. This we un|derstood they did, to show that they had no arms concealed. We then advanced, and entered into a kind of dumb discourse, of which we could under|stand enough to know that they wanted us to ac|company them to their town, which we very

readily did; they very deliberately put on their clothes, and then shewed us the way.

When we arrived, we found a number of wretched huts, with women and children, old men and dogs, who at first sight of us, were more frightened than their masters, hanging their tails, and sneaking away. One of these Mr. Law, our Surgeon, purchased. These huts consisted of nothing but long poles, rudely constructed into the form of a hovel, and covered over with heathy earth. For a door, they had a hole just large enough to creep in at, which, in cold weather, they close with a kind of faggot. Their inner apartments were holes or pits dug in the earth, and divided like stalls in a stable. Their furni|ture we did not take the pains to survey. We saw some bladders full of blubber or fat, hanging about, and some skins of beasts; also, dried fish in plenty. We likewise saw several wooden uten|sils, besides their arms; and we saw quantities of salt in wooden troughs. They had dried flesh, too, probably the remains of their winter provi|sions, which we understood they eat raw, and some of which they offered us for dinner. In these huts, or holes, they burn no fire; but in the winter they shut themselves up close, and have lamps, which they continually keep burning: for here, during the winter months, they scarce ever see the sun. We were not a little surprised at the sight of some of their children, who were as fair, and their skins as white, as those of many children in England; their dark coppery complexion is therefore owing to their anointing and greasing their children when they are young, and exposing them to all weathers while they have light, and shutting them in their smoaky caverns when it is dark. We found little or no difference between

the people in this sound and those we have de|scribed in the other, except having large drops or ornaments at their ears and noses, of beads of their own making. These they would not part with. They had gloves and boots likewise of their own manufacturing, and cloaks very curiously wrought. Their hair in general was long and black, which they dress and decorate with feathers and down. The women wear ornaments of ivory, beads, or transparent stones, which they hang to their ears, or run across their nostrils with a needle of bone about an inch and a half long, having another of equal length, which they pass cross a false mouth just above the chin. To these they string their ornaments, as in the figure annexed: and in this consists their pride. Having gratified our curi|osity, we returned to our ships; and having no|thing farther to detain us,

On the 2d of June, in the afternoon, we set sail. The same afternoon, the Resolution struck, and stuck fast on a bank in the middle of the ri|ver; but on the return of the tide, floated off without any damage. We were now in lat. 61.15. N. and in long. 209.55. E. many leagues within land, and it was not till the 6th that we cleared the channel.

The 4th, being his Majesty's birth-day we kept as a day of rejoicing.

On the 5th, we passed the burning mountains, and the wind dying away, we cast anchor, and shooting and fishing now took place of watching and hard labour. While the crews were pursuing their sport, two canoes approached the ships, with more than forty strangers, who were differently clothed from those Indians we had hitherto seen in this latitude. They brought with them curi|osities of various kinds and shapes; also great quantities of skins of seals, wolves, deer, black

and white foxes, racoons, martins, sables, and some few beavers, which they themselves had compleatly manufactured, and were soon pur|chased by those on board. The dress of these men were skins of birds, with the feathers out|wards, very neatly sewed, and reaching from the neck to the mid-leg. Under these they had a kind of trowsers, which parted in the middle, and sur|rounded their thighs. Under their feet they had a coarse covering that served for shoes. All these, though the weather was cold, they parted with, and most of them went naked from the ships, making signs for us to follow them, though it was not easy to discover from whence they came, nor where they were to go.

The 6th, a breeze sprang up, and we cleared the strait, to the unspeakable joy of the sailors, who, during the whole time from our entrance till our return, worked with incredible labour, an|choring and weighing as in the former sound, just as the winds and the tide afforded opportunity. During our passage, we had frequent interviews with the natives, who, the nearer we approached the shore, were, as we have observed, better clothed, and shewed some manufactures of their own, and of other nations; and were in possession of a greater variety of skins than those within land, which were strong indications of a foreign trade; but by what conveyance carried on, all our endea|vours at this time could not discover. This day we passed the barren isles.

On the 7th, at noon, St. Hermogenes bore N. four leagues distant. It appeared green and fer|tile.

On the 8th, we continued this course with very little variation, till night, when a thick fog came

on, and we lost sight of the Resolution. This weather continued till

The 10th, when the Resolution, in coasting along the main, ran foul of a dangerous reef, that appeared just above water, close under her lee|bow. Her good fortune still accompanied her, for she slid off without damage. Lat. 56.44. long. 207.53.

On the 11th, we were alarmed by the clashing of the waves, as if some great building was tum|bling in, and looking round the ship, we saw ourselves involved among shoals of seals and sea-lions, who presently set up the most frightful howlings; at the same time, we observed a large whale to pass along, at which we fired a swivel, but without effect. We this day stood to the North-East as the land trended.

On the 12th, Cape St. Barnabas bore N. 52. E. At eight o'clock, we opened upon some new land, the extreme Eastward point of which bore E. S. E. In the evening we stood S.

On the 14th, in the morning, we saw Trinity Island, distant 7 or 8 leagues, lat. 56.23. lon. 205.16. We directed our course along shore.

On the 15th, the weather hazy, we lost sight of land, sounded, and found no ground at 100 fathom. A storm came on, and both ships stood to sea.

On the 16th, it abated, the weather clear, [came in sight of Foggy Island, so called by Beer|ing] stood W. N. W. with a stiff breeze; lat. at noon by observation, 56.24. long. 202.17.

On the 17th, stood in, and saw land trend S. ½ E. as far as the eye could carry. At nine in the morning we opened a large bay, the entrance of which from S. W. to N. W. about three miles over; but having a fine breeze in our favour, we

continued along shore. We were now about two leagues distant from the shore, which was covered with geese, ducks, shags, and sea-fowls, innu|merable.

On the 19th, we coasted along shore, and pas|sed many dangerous rocks and shoals, which we saw project from the main into the sea to a great distance. We were now in lat. 55.26. long. 200.48. E. At two in the afternoon, we passed two large islands to the Southward of us, and about three had passed all the land to the Southward, when, being within half a mile of the main, we observed three canoes making towards us, in which were six Indians. When they came along side, they made signs for us to drop our anchors, inti|mating that the people on shore would be glad to see us; at the same time, we thought we heard the report of a gun. Little notice, however, was taken of what passed. The people from the gang-way talked with the men, one of whom made signs for letting down a rope, to which he tied a neat box, curiously made up with small twine, for which he would take nothing in return. The man who took it, looked upon it as a great curiosity; and, after the Indians were gone, began to exa|mine the contents, when a note was found in the inside, which was immediately carried to the Cap|tain, and a consultation was held on the quarter-deck to endeavour to decypher the contents; but none on board the Discovery could make out a letter. The ship was then hove-to, three guns fired, and a jack hoisted to the mast-head for stopping the Resolution. This being observed, all on board were struck with fear for the safety of the Discovery, thinking that some fatal disaster had happened, and that she was going to the bottom. Their boat was instantly hoisted out,

and Mr. Williamson, third Lieutenant, came in all haste to learn the cause. With him our Cap|tain returned, and related what had happened, and shewed Captain Cook the note, who likewise held a consultation upon it, and it was handed from the quarter-deck to the gang-way, where every man in the ship might see it; but not a man could make out more than something like the date 1778, of which they were not clear. We therefore con|tinued our course along the coast as the land trend|ed, but saw no opening, nor any inhabitants. About midnight, we saw a vast flame ascend from a burning mountain, and observed several fires within land. Latitude by observation 54.47. N. long. 197.52. E.

On the 20th, early in the morning, looking out a-head, we saw something like a reef before us, and fired a gun for the Resolution to tack; happy that day-light had enabled us to escape the danger.

On the 21st, we steered S. W. but at eight A. M. finding the land to trend more to the Southward, we altered our course to S. S. W. the extreme of the land in sight bearing W. by S. seven or eight leagues, very high land, and much snow. About two in the afternoon, we came again in sight of the two burning mountains, which we had before seen, but at a great distance, bearing N. W. by N. Our course during the night was S. S. W. During the course of this day, the weather being fair, and but little wind, the men were employed in fishing; and in less than four hours caught more than three ton weight of cod and holybut, some of the latter more than a hundred pounds weight. Here a man in a small canoe came on board the Resolution. He bowed and pulled off his cap, and shewed evident signs of

having had commercial dealings with the Russians. He wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox skin.

On the 22d, our men were employed in salting and barreling up, for future use, what the ship's company could not consume while fresh, which proved a most acceptable supply. All this day we kept our course S. W. by S.

On the 23d, in the evening, we shaped our course more to the Westward, the weather thick and hazy.

On the 24th, little wind and hazy. Saw no land; but looking over the ship's side, observed the water to change to a milky white. Sounded, and found ground at 47 fathom. About four P. M. we saw two very high islands bearing N. W. distance about five leagues, and could discern the main land contiguous. We bore away under the lee of the Westernmost, and continued steering all night S. by W.

On the 25th, in the morning, we changed our course, steering S. W. as the land trended. At ten the same morning, we had a full view of the land for many miles, but saw no signs of houses or inhabitants; but doubtless, though the coun|try appeared rugged and barren, and in many places white with snow, there were many people in the inland parts. About seven in the evening we could see land at a great distance, bearing due South, which had the appearance of a large island. Hitherto we had been exploring the coasts of an unknown continent; unknown, at least, to our European geographers: though we shall see by the sequel, that it was not wholly unexplored by the Asiatic Russians. Towards night, though it had been perfectly clear all day, the air began to

thicken, and by ten at night the fog was so thick that we could not see the ship's length. We kept firing guns, burning false fires, and standing off land all night, as did the Resolution; and in the morning of the

26th, when the fog dispersed, we found our|selves in a deep bay, surrounded by high lands, and almost ashore under a high mountain, which we had not before discerned. Both ships instantly dropt anchor in 24 fathom water, blue muddy bottom, within two cables length of the shore, and among shoals and breakers, from which we most miraculously escaped. For some time we stood in amazement how we could possibly get into such a frightful situation. But being in it, for our own safety we moored both ships; and happy it was we used that precaution; for a gale came on, when our whole existence depended upon the goodness of our cables. In the evening, the boats were got out, and the Captain, with several other gentlemen, went on shore; but with great danger were landed, as were likewise some boats from both ships, to cut grass for the live stock that yet remained. They afterwards found that this was an island, called by the Russians, Vonulashka Island; but saw no inhabitants. In their excursion the gentlemen shot two eagles and several other birds of various sorts, and soon re|turned on board the ships. Lat. obs. 53.39. Long. 193.16. E.

On the 27th, at three A. M. it ceased blowing, and the weather began to clear. At six we un|moored, and sailed under close reefed top-sails, directing our course N. W. for an opening we saw at about a league distance; but at nine the wind dying away, we anchored again in 25 fathom water, loamy sand. It being a dead calm, our

boats were ordered out, and some gentlemen went again on shore, to examine the island more closely. In their search they found something like an In|dian mansion, being a deep pit sunk in the earth, with some poles placed across it after their manner, and covered with sods, and a hole to creep into it about two feet square. In it they found the bones of dried fish, and of birds, and near it a place where there had been a fire, but all had the ap|pearance of being long deserted. They also found the rib of a whale, about eight feet long, which it was not easy to account how it could come there. About noon the gentlemen returned on board, and a breeze springing up from the Eastward, we weighed, and took leave of this dangerous bay, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Providence Bay, as it was owing to Pro|vidence that we were here miraculously preserved from perishing. We had pleasant weather all day, and the land high all round us. We sounded all the afternoon from 18 to 36 fathom, mostly sandy bottom. In the evening we saw a large body of Indians towing a whale which they had struck, who were too busy to mind us till late, when two canoes came along-side and traded. We were surprised when they asked us for tobacco, and more so when they shewed us some, together with snuff in their boxes. As tobacco was a precious commodity on board, we could spare them little, but for that little they were thankful, and de|parted. We passed several islands to the East|ward, very high and mountainous.

On the 28th, in the morning, Mr. Nelson, ac|companied by several other gentlemen, went on shore botanizing; they found great variety of plants and flowers peculiar to the country, besides others, with which we were all well acquainted;

such as primroses, violets, currants, rasberries, juniper, and many other Northern fruits, which were now all in blossom. They found also a bird's nest, with five small eggs, not unlike a sparrow's. After some stay they came again on board, and the wind dying away, and the Reso|lution having got far a-head, our boats were em|ployed in towing us, when a strong current meet|ing us right a-head, baffled their endeavours. This current ran with such force, that the Reso|lution, unable to stem it, cast anchor, and soon after was joined by the Discovery. Here several canoes came from the land to trade, and made signs for more tobacco, of which our own men were in great want. About noon we opened on a fine harbour to the Westward of us; but we were the whole afternoon in working up the Race, as it was called, from the rapidity of its motion, and the strength with which it set against us. Our first attempt to stem it proved fruitless. We were driven as far back as the place from whence we set out. On the tide's turning in our favour, we made a second attempt, and succeeded. About six in the evening, we cast anchor 12 fathom water, and soon after came to moorings. We were, in less than an hour, surrounded with more than thirty canoes, with rock fish and dried sal|mon, which they exchanged for beads, small nails, or any thing we offered them. They had likewise some very pretty baskets of their own making, with other utensils, which plainly in|dicated a communication with foreign traders.

On the 29th, the boats were employed in wa|tering the ships, and the sail-makers, &c. began to overhaul the rigging, and all hands were em|ployed in different repairs. In the mean time se|veral Indians hovered round the ships with fish

ready dressed, which they presented to any indis|criminately who would accept them; but would take nothing in return, except tobacco or snuff were offered them; neither did they offer to steal or take any the most trifling thing away: and what was remarkable, not a woman was to be seen, nor did any come near the ship during our stay. Our Captain took notice of two that seemed su|perior to the rest, he invited them on board, and with much entreaty prevailed on them to enter. He made them presents of a few beads, and two or three hands of tobacco each, for which they in the most submissive manner expressed their gra|titude. All this while our botanist and his atten|dants were busily employed, and sent plenty of celery and other wholesome herbs on board, as well for the use of the great cabin as for those of the subordinate tables, down even to the lowest of the ship's company.

On the 30th both Captains landed, in order to survey the island, and take a more accurate view of the harbour, Captain Cook intending to make this the place of rendezvous on his return: they met with several friendly Indians in their way, to whom they made presents.

On the 1st of July the signal was given to un|moor; but, the wind shifting to N. N. E. Mr. Edgar, master of the Discovery, accompanied by several other gentlemen, made a visit to an Indian town, which they saw at the distance of five or six miles, situated on the side of a pleasant little hill, that seemed to command a view of the bay, and of a great extent of country around. At this town they arrived about ten in the morning, when a well-looking old man made them understand he was chief of the place. To him therefore they made their addresses, by presenting him with some

[figure] depiction of the people of Onalashka

A Man and Woman of Onalashka.

p. 246.

trifles, and a small hand of tobacco. By way of return, he made signs for the strangers to sit down; and when they were seated, he brought them fish of various sorts, dried and fresh, and some dried venison, which, however, they declined to taste: observing, therefore, that the strangers wanted only to satisfy their curiosity, he made signs for them to follow him; leading them to every house, and, last of all, to his own. These houses were no other than square caverns dug in the ground, and latticed with rough poles, over which were laid sods of earth, leaving a square hole in the middle like a hatch-way, through which to enter. They descended by means of a ladder, made by cutting notches in a beam, deep enough to re|ceive the toes and the ball of the foot; and by that ladder women and children, as well as men, run up and down like so many rats, without fear of falling. The old Indian did not seem willing to shew the gentlemen the inside of the houses, nor were they over-solicitous to examine them. The smell, when they looked down, was enough to satisfy them. These holes or houses, if they may be so called, were some of them forty feet long, thirty broad, and about twelve feet deep. In these they never burn fire, but kindle their fires at some distance, chiefly in the night, but for what reason we could never learn. Hence it is, that sailors are enabled to judge of the populous|ness of a country by the number of these fires that are seen from the shore. From the houses the old Indian led them to the sheds where they ma|nufactured their skins; shewed their manner of dressing them, their store-houses, and in short, all their arts and artificers, their women only except|ed, of whom one only made her appearance, and she was old, and far from being inviting. About

eight in the afternoon the gentlemen returned; and however they might be surfeited with what they had seen, they shewed by the dinner they made that they had not lost their appetite.

While Mr. Edgar, &c. were thus pleasing them|selves with one kind of amusement, Mr. Law, Sur|geon, was diverting himself with another. He went a hunting, and traced an old fox to her cover, where, after digging a considerable way, he found seven young ones; two of which he brought on board, and one of them lived a long time after.

On the 2d of July we cleared the harbour, called by the inhabitants Samganooda, situated on the North-side of Oonalashka, in lat. 53.35. long. 193.30. About noon we saw the land trend to S. S. E. hauled up to E. N. E. and continued all night in that course.

On the 3d, at two A. M. she wore ship, and stood to the Southward till day-light, and then tacked, and steered E. N. E. At noon we saw the extreme of the land, bearing E. ½ S.

On the 4th, at two A. M. we steered N. N. E. At ten sounded at seventy fathom, blue mud, shelly bottom, and making very little way, our men were employed in fishing, and in less than four hours catched upwards of 800 weight of cod. At noon we had an observation, lat. 55.49. N. long. 195.34. Course all night N. E.

On the 5th, we saw the land very low and even, trending away to the Southward of the East. We were distant from the Northernmost shore three or four leagues, and from this day we be|gan sounding till our arrival in watering harbour. This day all hands employed in fishing; and as our people were now put on two-thirds allowance, what each caught he might eat or sell. For|tunate for them, they caught some tons of fine

fish, which proved a most seasonable supply; for the ship provisions, what with salt and mag|gots eating into the beef and pork, and the rats and weavils devouring the heart of the bread, the one was little better than putrid flesh, and the other, upon breaking, would crumble into dust. At noon, this day, we directed our course N. N. E. being now in lat. 56.36. long. 196.19. per watch.

On the 6th we continued the same course, and, sounding, found ground at twelve fathom. We tacked, and stood to the S. E. and, sounding again, found ground at three fathoms and a half. We were now in Beering's Straits. We tacked instantly, and stood to the North, having had a|nother providential escape from running upon the rocks. We got out our boats, and sounded from 7 to 5½ fathom, rocky bottom for eight or nine leagues to the Northward. Lat. 57.4. long. 199.40. We were now in a most perilous and labo|rious navigation; sounding every day, and every day in danger of perishing on the rocks.

On the 7th sounded from twelve to four fa|thom, hard bottom, with shells. Lat. 57.17. long. 200.6.

On the 8th sounded from seven to twenty fa|thom; small shells, with sand. Lat. 57.46. long. 201.40. per watch.

On the 9th a great fog; lay by most part of the day; sounded from six to ten fathoms and a half; lat. by observation 58.15. long. 201.11.

On the 10th we had thunder, hail, and rain. The men almost exhausted with fatigue; sound|ed from twelve to nine fathoms and a half. Lat. 57.58. long. 221.19.

The 11th we came in sight of land. The air clear and pleasant; we steered N. W. by W. the

Westward point of land in sight, bearing W. ½ N. This day the gentlemen from both ships diverted themselves in shooting. At noon our Captain returned on board with three sea-parrots, four pigeons, several gulls, teals, and shags. These parrots are in size and shape not unlike those on land, but web-footed, and their plumage diffe|rent. Numbers of them were shot, and brought to England as curiosities. The pigeons too are much like those on land, but web-footed, and make a most disagreeable cooing, much like the croaking of the sea-lion; sounded from twelve to six fathoms. Lat. 58.11. long. 199.50.

On the 12th nothing material; the day was pleasant, and he had a full view of the land, but saw neither tree nor bush; sounded from eight to sixteen fathom. Latitude by observation 58.20.

The 13th, sounded from eight to thirteen fa|thom. Lat. 58.13. long. 198.8.

The 14th we coasted along shore, N. N. W. and at three in the afternoon found ourselves to the windward of the Southward point, with a strong tide setting to the S. E. About four a thick fog arose, and being within two miles of the shore, came to an anchor in ten fathom wa|ter, the extreme point of land to the Westward, bearing N. N. W. very high; distant between six and seven leagues. Sounded all day from ten to twelve fathom. Latitude by observation 58.20. long. 197.51.

The 15th, about ten in the morning, the weather clear and fine, we came to an anchor in seventeen fathom water, lat. 58.24. long. 197.4. Here the cutters from both ships were man|ned, and all the gentlemen went on shore. We saw no other inhabitants but bears and foxes, and some wild deer; we heard in the adjoining woods

the howlings and yellings of wolves and other wild beasts; but thought it neither safe nor sea|sonable to pursue them. After spending the greatest part of the day in botanizing with Mr. Nelson, we returned on board, leaving on the bluff part of a rock a bottle behind us, in which were enclosed some blue and white beads, with a note of the ships names, the date when left, by whom, and on what expedition. We found near the shore the horns of some sea-monsters, from twenty to twenty-four inches long, nearly as thick as a man's leg at the root, and tapering to a point, with a gradual sweep. Lat. 58.24. long. 197.4. We were no sooner returned than a breeze sprang up, when we weighed, and again made sail, with the ships heads W. N. W.

The 16th, the water shallowed so fast, that it was thought prudent to drop anchors again, and to send the boats out with a compass to examine the strait to a considerable distance a-head. In half an hour a gun was fired from the boats, as a signal not to proceed, and the man at the mast-head saw land appear just above water. This proved a barren spot, not above an acre wide, with nothing but shells and the bones of fishes on it. The boats having sounded from W. to N. W. by N. from two to one fathom and a half, returned with their report, that no passage could be found in that di|rection. From this day to the 20th, the boats were continually sounding in all directions amidst the most dreadful tempest of thunder, lightning, and hail, that ever blew; but such was our dan|ger, that Capt. Cook himself shared in all the la|bour: and what added to our misfortune, the Resolution parted her best bower within ten fa|thoms of the anchor, and it was wonderful that she was not wrecked. Lat. 58.40. long. 196.40.

On the 17th all hands that could be spared were employed in sweeping for the anchor, but in vain; being quite worn down with fatigue, they were forced to give over, and men from the Discovery were ordered to supply their places. Latitude by observation 58.53. long. 197.4.

On the 18th the anchor was recovered, when every officer on board both ships was obliged to do the duty of common men. No pen can de|scribe our danger from the horrible situation we were in.

The 19th was wholly employed in sounding from eight to two fathom. Lat. 59.37. long. 197.17.

On the 20th Captain Cook himself, in sound|ing to the S. E. found a narrow channel, regular soundings, from eight to ten fathom. Hope took place of despair, and all hands returned to their labour with fresh spirits. We presently weighed, and pursued our course with a fine breeze. The day continuing clear, at noon we had an obser|vation in lat. 59.37. long. 197. E. This day we were visited by some Indians, who had little to part with, except dried fish, and bows and arrows. The only peculiarity we observed was, that most of them had their heads shaved close. They seemed fondest of Otaheite and other Indian cloth, for which they would part with any thing.

On the 21st, about noon, both ships brought to, the wind and current both uniting to oppose our progress; founded from twelve to five fa|thoms and a half. Lat. 59.26. long. 197.18.

On the 22d we were overjoyed, on sounding, to find the sea deepen to forty fathom; but, before night that joy was much damped by a prodigious fall of snow, of which it was with difficulty that the decks could be kept clear, though the water

was constantly employed in shovelling it off dur|ing the night. Lat. 59.11. long. 197.14. course S. S. W.

The 23d made sail, and steered W. Lat. 58.26.

The 24th continued our course W. by S.

The 25th lay to most of the day, by reason of the fog. Lat. 57.43. long. 193.

The 26th, when it began to clear up.

On the 27th we had clear weather, and regular soundings, from twenty-seven to thirty fathom; black sand and small shells.

On the 28th sounded all day from twenty-eight to thirty-three fathoms; sandy bottom.

On the 29th the man at the mast-head called out land very high, distance about two leagues right a-head. We tacked, and stood off. Long 189.20. per watch.

On the 30th we continued along-shore, course N. ½ E. sounding from twenty-five to thirty-five fathom. Lat. 61.14. long. 190.10.

The 31st we were again alarmed with irregu|lar soundings, from ten to thirty fathom, but were soon relieved, by the water deepening. Lat. 31.20. long. 188.11. per watch.

August the 1st, the sea continued to deepen, but the land trending to the southward, obliged us to change our course. We were now in lat. 60.59. N. long. 191.47. E.

On the 2d we again bore away N. W. all the morning, and at noon tacked to N. E. by N. Lat. 62.13. long. 191.33.

The 3d, course all day N. N. E. This course we pursued, with a little variation to the eastward, till the evening, when we saw land, bearing S. W. distance seven or eight leagues. Latitude by ob|servation 63.4. long. 192.10. This day, word was brought us from the Resolution of the death

of Mr. Anderson, the surgeon. His funeral was performed with the usual sea-ceremonies; and our surgeon, Mr. Law, was appointed in his place; and Mr. Samuel, surgeon's mate of the Resolution, succeeded Mr. Law.

The 4th at noon, sounding from fifteen toten fathom we came again in sight of land, which bore from us W. to N. ½ E. At noon we sounded, and found only eight fathoms and a half. In the even|ing we came to an anchor in fifteen fathom. Lat. 64.44. long. 192.7.

On the 5th, we came to in twelve fathom wa|ter, under the lee of a small but high island, in lat. 64.41. long. 192.14. to which Captain Cook gave the name of Sledge Island, as a sledge and the remains of a Russian town were found upon it, but no inhabitants. There were likewise found some Russian snow-shoes. Mr. Nelson, and his associates found, on this island, great quantities of wild celery, and a kind of wild vetch or chich|ling, of which the ship's company made the pro|per use.

Early on the 6th we weighed, and stood W. by N. As we coasted along shore, several Indians were seen on the opposite side of the island, who were, to all appearance, preparing to pay us a visit. We hove to; but, after waiting an hour, and none coming, we continued our course. We soon came again into shallow water, and finding the land too near us from the western shore, we altered our course to N. N. W. sounding from four to six fathom water, six leagues from the main land. We were now obliged to come to anchor, as a heavy snow darkened the air, and rendered our proceeding hazardous. Lat. 4.44. long. 192.42.

On the 7th, judging ourselves near the shore, though not in sight, we weighed and tacked; and as the fog dispersed, we saw the land mountainous and rocky, with neither tree nor shrub in sight, but exhibiting the most dreary prospect that the mind of man can conceive. At the same time, an island was seen bearing N. 81. W. eight or nine leagues distant, named by us King's Island. It seemed of no great extent. We hastened from this horrid situation, but in the course of the day were under the necessity of coming to an anchor three times; but in launching it the last time, we observed the stock of our best bower to be sprung. Nothing could equal our apprehensions. We immediately made signals, and acquainted our Commodore with our distress. Fortunately, the stock of an unserviceable best-bower hung over our side, which, by the assistance of the carpenters and smiths of the Resolution, added to our own, was in less than twenty-four hours, though under every disadvantage, substituted in the room of the other, and rendered perfectly safe. And happy it was, for

On the 8th, we had a violent storm of hail, rain and snow, which continued all the morning; but the wind dying away about noon, and the current setting to the N. E. we were drifted to leeward close in shore, under a very high track of land, and among rocks and breakers. Both ships instantly came to in 9 fathom water, the Resolution with her best-bower, within two miles of the shore, and the Discovery with her coasting anchor. Here we saw high land, extending from N. by W. to N. W. by N. distant about three leagues. Over the western extreme was an elevated peaked hill, situated in lat. 65.36. and in long. 192.18. Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out

to the N. W. the extreme point of which bore F. by E. This point of land is the more re|markable, being the western extremity of all Ame|rica hitherto known, and named by Capt. Cook Cape Prince of Wales. And now a breeze spring|ing up in our favour, we quitted this perilous situation; and seeing the land trend away to the N. W. we directed our course accordingly, till, having doubled the westernmost point, we steered again to the eastward, and continued that course the whole night.

On the 9th about 2 A. M. we came again to an anchor, a strong current from 5 to 6 knots an hour setting against us; but the ships pitching bows under, and the water from the upper deck run|ning, as through a sieve, to the lower deck, in less than half an hour, every thing between decks was afloat, so that the poor men had not a dry rag to put on. This obliged us to weigh as fast as possible; but, in our situation, that was a work of no small labour and difficulty, as at this time many of our hands, through fatigue, and being constantly exposed to the rain and snow, and in a damp ship, were ill of colds, attended with slow fevers, which rendered them incapable of duty. Out of 70 hands, officers included, we could only muster 20 to the capstern. We had with difficulty weighed our small bower, and had made two un|successful attempts at the sheet anchor, when the Resolution left us, making all the sail she could carry, to surmount the current. We were now in the utmost distress; but by contriving several ad|ditional purchases we at last succeeded, with the misfortune, however, of having two of our ablest hands wounded; and it was next to a miracle that none were killed. The Resolution was now out of sight, but, judging our distress, she lay to amidst

a cluster of islands, of which we told no less than seven, very small but very high. As soon as we came in sight, she made sail, and we followed with all the sail we could crowd till about mid|night, when we were surprised by a sudden squall, which split our main top-sail, and shivered our jib to ribbons; it was, however, of short conti|nuance. Lat. 65.46. long. 191.45.

On the 10th, we had fine weather and a calm sea, and were proceeding, at a great rate, our course W. when, unexpectedly we opened into a deep bay, where we saw at the distance of a few leagues, a large Indian town, which our Commo|dore at first supposed to belong to the island of Alaschka; but from the figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude, he found reason to alter his opinion, and to conclude that it was a part of the country of Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Beering in 1728. Long 189.25. Here we cast anchor in 13 fathom water, and both Captains, attended by a proper guard went on shore. About 30 or 40 men, each armed with a spontoon, a bow and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down towards the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bows. We returned the civility, but this did not inspire them with sufficient con|fidence; for the moment we advanced, they re|tired. Capt. Cook followed them alone, with|out any thing in his hand; and by signs, prevailed on them to receive some trifling presents. In re|turn, they gave him two fox skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. They seemed very cautious; expressing their desire by signs, that no more of our people might be permitted to come up. On

Capt. Cook's laying his hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back, and in proportion as the Captain advanced, the natives retreated; al|ways in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with their arrows. Insen|sibly, a few of our people got in among them; but a few beads being distributed to those about them, soon created a confidence, and, by degrees, a sort of traffic commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows; but no|thing could induce them to part with a spear, or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never quitting them, except at one time, when four or five of them laid theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance. Their arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of them had barbs, and some were blunted. The use they made of these was, probably, to kill small animals, without damaging their skins. The bows were such as we had seen used by the Ame|rican Esquimaux. The spears or spontoons were of iron or steel, of European or Asiatic workman|ship, curiously ornamented with carvings and inlayings of brass and white metal. Those who stood ready with their bows and arrows, had their spears slung over their right shoulders; a qui|ver slung over their left with arrows; some of their quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of red leather, on which were very neat em|broidery, and other ornaments. Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed they were not destitute of ingenuity.

All the Americans we had seen since our ar|rival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek bones.

The people we now were among, had long vis|ages, and were stout and well-made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different nation. We saw neither women nor children; nor any aged, except one man, who was bald-headed, and carried no arms. The other seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. All of them had their ears bored, and some of them had glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed ornaments we saw among them, for they wore none to their lips; in which they essen|tially differ from their American neighbours.

Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of the skins of deer, dogs, seals, &c. extremely well dressed; some with the hair or fur on, and others without. The caps were made to fit the head very close; and, besides these caps, which most of them wore, we got from them some hoods made of the skins of dogs, large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off, and none of them wore any beard. Of the articles they got from us, knives and tobacco they valued most.

We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like vaults, the floors of which are sunk a little below the surface of the earth, and boarded, and under them a kind of cellar, in which we saw nothing but water. At the end of each house was a vaulted room, which we took to be a store-room. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box or tower, composed of the large bones of large fish.

The summer-huts were pretty large and conical. The framing was of light poles and bones, covered

with the skins of sea-animals. We examined the inside of one. There was a fire-place just within the door, near which lay a few wooden vessels, all very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the sides. Some privicies seemed to be observed, for there were several partitions made of skins. The bed and bedding were of deer-skins, and most of them were dry and clean.

About these habitations were several stages, ten or twelve feet high, for drying their fish and skins out of the reach of their dogs, of which they had many; large and of different colours, with long soft hair, like wool; probably used in drawing the sledges, for sledges they had in their huts. Perhaps these dogs, being numerous, may constitute a part of their food; for several of them lay dead, that had been killed that morning.

Their canoes are of the same sort with those of the Northern Americans.

By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-ani|mals, that lay scattered about, it appears, that the sea supplies them with the greatest part of their substance.

After a stay of about two or three hours with these people, we returned to our ships, and pur+sued our voyage.

On the 11th we passed several large islands to the eastward of us, and at the same time left the extreme point of the northern cape of Asia, which we saw trend away to the W. by S. as far as the eye could carry, mostly high land, barren and co|vered with snow. We then bore away to the north-east, sounding from 5 to 6 fathom, and about 3 P. M. finding the sea to change of a milky colour, and at the same time to shallow very fast, we came to in 7 fathom water, and sent the boats out to sound, who soon returned, finding

the sea to deepen as they proceeded. We then got under way, standing all night N. one half W. passing in the night several large sea cows and other sea monsters. Lat. 66.5. long. 191.19.

On the 12th we altered our course, and stood to the westward, when both ships tacked, and plyed to the North, leaving two very small islands on our starboard bow. In the evening we crossed the arctic circle, and stood all night W. by S. 66.35. long 189.39.

In the morning of the 13th we stood once more north eastward. We were now in lat 66.40. and from 20 to 40 fathom water, the weather warm and fine. We altered our course and steered all night N. N. E.

On the 14th in the morning, we hauled our wind and stood with the ship's head to the N. E. About 5 in the afternoon we came in sight of land, distance about 5 or 6 leagues, very high, woody, and covered with snow; we stood in for land; but finding the coast rugged, and the wa|ter shoal, we stood again W. S. W. and continued that course the whole night. Lat. 67.27. long. 191.40.

On the 15th, finding ourselves attacked by a heavy storm of wind, attended with rain, we bore away N. W. by W. and continued that course till the evening, when we shortened sail and stood to the southward. Lat. obs. 68.18. long. 192.37.

On the 16th at noon we found ourselves in lat. 69.46. long. 192. E. We then stood from N. N. E. to N. E. sounding from 22 to 23 fathom water. Lat. 69.46. long. 192.

On the 17th the weather began to grow pierce|ing cold. The frost set in, and froze so hard that the running rigging was soon loaded with ice, and rendered almost impossible to make the sheafs or

blocks traverse without the assistance of six men to do the work of one. But what was most re|markable, was the sudden transition from heat to such severe cold. The day before was warm and pleasant, but in the evening of this day the ice was seen hanging at our hair, our noses, and even at the men's fingers ends, if they did but expose them to the air for five or six minutes: and still the farther they ran to the eastward, the colder it grew, and the ice the more connected. About 2 in the afternoon we found ourselves surrounded with large floating islands of ice, which, like clouds in the sky, were continually varying their appearances; but the farther we ran to the east|ward, the closer the ice became compacted. As the weather was now clear, though piercing cold, we could see the ice extending on every side E. and W. as far as the eye could carry. We stood to the northward, and being embayed, we observed a large island floating, with the tide towards us, whereon was supposed to rest great numbers of sea-monsters. Being apprehensive of danger, the signal was made for tacking. We kept off and on all night. Lat. 70.41. long. 197.

On the 18th, hot victuals froze while we were at table; and this weather continued for some days. Being now well in with the ice, and having lost sight of land, we kept working to the westward. At noon a great fog came on, but soon clearing up, the sun made his appearance, and we had an observation, by which we found we were in lat. 70.54. long. 198.17. About eight at night it blew a gale, with heavy snow; we shortened sail, and stood to the southward.

The 19th when looking round in the morning, as soon as the fog cleared away, we saw nothing but fields of ice covered with whole herds of sea-lions,

sea-horses, and other amphibious animals, to the number, as it was thought, of some thou|sands. Thus surrounded, a signal was made from the Resolution to bring to, and to load the great guns, while the boats were getting ready to attack these hideous looking creatures with muskets. This, by the sailors from both ships, was accounted sport; and they went to the attack with as much alacrity as if to a match at foot-ball. Orders were given, as soon as the great guns were discharged, to quicken the attack with the musketry as fast as possible. In a few minutes not a creature was to be seen upon the ice but such as were killed, or so severely wounded as not to be able to crawl to the open sea. Some lay growling on the ice not quite dead, with two or three balls through their heads, and others tumbling about with horrible vindictive looks, threatening destruction to who|ever should approach them. These monsters, when at their growth, are in length from the head to the hindmost fin from eleven to twelve feet; round the belly from twenty to twenty-six feet. Four long stiff fins serve them for feet, with which they crawl or slide upon the ice, and move with wonderful agility; two large tusks, at the distance of 7 or 8 inches apart, project from the nostrils, in length from twenty inches to two feet four, thick at the root, and tapering to a point; their forehead resembles that of a bull. They have whiskers on each side the mouth, about six inches long, as stiff as a knitting-needle, with which they raise themselves upon the ice. Their eyes are small. They have no teeth; nor have they any tail. They have, like the seals, some little hair upon their skins, but very thin; and are, upon the whole, most horribly ugly creatures. After the engagement was over, all hands were employed

to collect the carcasses, and to carry them on board; but what was thought an ill reward for their labour, orders were next day given by Capt. Cook to substitute the flesh of these sea-monsters in the room of all other provisions, bread or flour only excepted. This was strongly opposed by the crew of the Resolution, and Capt. Clerke remon|strated against it. He was told by Capt. Cook, that he might do as he pleased on board his own ship; but the state of the provisions on board the Resolution made it necessary, and that he himself should set the example. Capt. Clerke endeavoured, but in vain, to enforce the order, and the matter passed on without any serious consequences.

On the 20th we tacked ship, and stood to the westward, the wind much against us. We tacked every two hours, still working over to the Asiatic shore, with a view to examine the coasts on both sides, before we returned to the southward. We were now in lat. 70.54. long. 194.55.

On the 21st, we came in sight of the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to E. by S. the nearest part five leagues distant.

We continued labouring among the ice till the 25th, when a storm came on, which made it dan|gerous for us to proceed; a consultation was there|fore held on board the Resolution as soon as the violence of the gale abated, when it was unani|mously resolved, that as this passage was imprac|ticable for any useful purpose of navigation, which was the great object of the voyage, to pursue it no farther, especially in the condition the ships were in, the winter approaching, and the distance from any known place of refreshment great.

About two in the morning of the 26th we ob|served a great body of ice nearing us very fast, and in a few hours after we saw the ice all closed as far

as the eye could carry, bearing from N. E. to S. W. We continued to sail W. S. W.

On the 28th several pieces of loose ice passed us, one of which came soul of the Discovery, and shook her whole frame; it was feared she had re|ceived considerable damage, but upon the carpen|ters examining her sore and aft, nothing was found amiss. We now took leave of the ice for this sea|son, directing our course S. S. W.

On the 29th we saw land in the morning, which bore from N. N. W. to S. W. very high, and covered with snow. At two, P. M. we were in with the land. It showed itself in two hills, like islands; but afterwards seemed connected, and appeared in every respect like the opposite coast of America. In the low ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake, extending to the S. E. farther than we could see.

The 30th, at two, A. M. bore away E. by S. At seven saw land; the extreme of which bore S. E. At two, P. M. saw more land, trending to the southward. At this time came in sight of a narrow channel that seemed to lead to the lake, which we had seen the day before. H••…••…led our wind, and stood N. E. by E. In the evening we were in with the land, and not a shrub to be seen, but birds innumerable, chiefly sea parrots.

On the 31st, at day-light, we came in sight of the eastern cape, named Cape North, bearing S. S. E. very high, and covered with snow: we were then distant from the nearest shore four or five leagues. Continued our course from S. S. E. to S. E. by E. At noon the extreme of the south|ward point bore S. W. by S. At three, P. M. we saw two small, but very high islands, bearing from N. N. E. to N. W. which we left to the northward. We were then in lat. 68.56. and

long. 180.51. At night both ships tacked to the westward. This day we passed an island, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Burney's Island.

Sept. 1, we continued coasting to the eastward, as the land trended; distance about four miles from the shore. Here Capt. Cook took occasion to fix the Eastern point of the Asiatic Continent. It shews, he says, a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and lies in the lat. 67.3. and long. 188.11.

On the 2d we continued coasting along shore. Course all day S. S. E. Saw many very high trees, supposed to be pines.

On the 3d we opened into the great bay, called the bay of St. Lawrence, where we anchored the 10th of last month; but what was remarkable, none of the inhabitants, whom we had visited, of|fered to approach us, though the weather was favourable.

On the 4th stood W. N. W. right in for the land. At six, A. M. bore away S. ½ W. the easternmost point of land bearing S. by E. dis|tance six or seven leagues, and so continued all day. At night stood E. N. E.

On the 5th we lost sight of the main continent of Asia, which we left the day before. Lat. 64.7. long. 189.1.

On the 6th we saw land from W. N. W. to E. N. E. very woody, and covered with snow in the vallies. Here we found ourselves in sight of Sledge-Island, near the continent of America; and here Capt. Cook was desirous of discovering the island of Alaschkska, which the Russians had de|scribed as abounding with wood and water.

On the 7th, there came two canoes from the shore, with four Indians in them, though we were distant full four leagues. We hove to for their

coming up; but when along-side, they had little or nothing to part with, except some dried fish. They were invited on board, but could not be persuaded to enter. The Captain made them presents of some trifles, with which they departed well pleased. They were clothed in skins, after the manner of all the inhabitants of the Western coasts of America, among whom we found a re|markable uniformity of dress and colour.

On the 8th, we steered E. ½ N. passing several bays and fine harbours all day; found the country pleasant, and the coast delightful. Lat. 64.22. long. 197. beyond which the coast took a more Northerly course. Here we found a strong cur|rent to set to the S. E. at the rate of five knots an hour.

On the 9th, at five, A. M. land appeared from S. E. to E. like two islands, but, after fatigue|ing trials, we found them join to the main land. At four, P. M. the land opened all round, from one shore to the other; and we found ourselves in the middle of a deep bay, but very shallow, some|times three, but never above five fathoms and a half water. At this time, a head-land on the West shore, distinguished by the name of Bald Head, lay N. by W. one league distant. We saw the bay to run as far as the eye could carry, but im|possible to proceed, as in many places the water shallowed under three fathom. We stood off and on all night.

On the 10th, having a stiff breeze, we ran right across the mouth of the bay, for the N. W. shore, and just before night the Resolution nar|rowly escaped running upon a rock. This day, Capt. Cook landed on a narrow border of land which joined to the beech, and which was covered with grass and heath, with a variety of wild ber|ries,

but rather over-ripe. He observed traces of foxes and deer upon the beech, but none were caught; on each side of this peninsula the coast forms a bay. The projecting point of this pe|ninsula, obtained the name of Cape Denbeigh. Several natives were seen on the peninsula, and one came off, to whom Capt. Cook gave a knife, and asked him for something to eat. The man paddled off; and meeting with another man, with two dried salmon in his canoe, took them from him, and brought them to the Captain.

On the 11th, we came to anchor, in six fathom water, distance from the shore about four miles; the Easternmost point of the bay bearing N. E. by E. distance about eight miles, very high land. In the night, we saw several fires, but no Indians came off to us.

On the 12th, in the morning, the boats from both ships were sent on shore, where they saw some houses of a wretched construction; a small sledge, and several other articles belonging to the Indians, but none of the natives. About ten, they re|turned with a load of wood, which they found drifted on the beech, but no water; the wood had drifted from the Southward, for we saw no trees, but black spruce. We then stretched over to the other shore, and the boats were again sent out, and about nine in the evening returned, loaded with wood, which the men were obliged to carry through the water on their shoulders, as the boats could not come within half a mile of land, for breakers. This was a grievous task, as many of them but just recovered their late illness. This day several natives came from the S. S. E. side, in large canoes, having great quantities of salmon, dried and fresh, which they exchanged for blue and red beads, needles, pins, knives, or scissars,

or any European trinkets that were offered them; but what they valued most was tobacco. For this they would exchange their bows and arrows, their warlike instruments, and whatever else they valued most; but of this commodity, as has already been noticed, we had but little to spare. We were again obliged to change our station, and stretch to the other shore, where a safe anchorage was discovered, near which we could get wood and water with the greatest ease. We now stood more to the Southward, in order to avoid those breakers we so narrowly escaped before; and next day our great cutter was sent out, properly pro|vided with a compass, and six days provision, to survey the bay, with a view to determine whether that land to which the Russians have given the name of Alaskah, joined to the American conti|nent, or whether there was not a passage through the bay to the Northward. While the cutters were on this service, the boats continued wooding and watering, and before the return of the former, the latter had got the full complement of both on board, and the ships were in readiness to depart.

The 13th, cast anchor in four fathoms and a half water, within a mile and a half from the mouth of a great river, from whence before night we had got more than 20 tons of water; we had likewise got a considerable quantity of wood from the shore. This day a family of the natives came near the place where we were taking off the wood, miserable looking objects, who for four knives made out of an iron hoop, parted with more than 400 lb. weight of fish, which they had caught this and the preceding day.

On the 14th, the men had leave to go ashore by turns to gather berries, which they now found ripe, and in great abundance, such as rasberries,

blue-berries, black and red currants, huckle ber|ries, with various other sorts, all in full perfec|tion. A party was likewise sent out to cut spruce, to brew into beer for both ships. Of this liquor, however, the men were not very fond in this cold climate, especially when they were given to un|derstand that their grog was to be stopped, and this beer substituted in the room of it. This oc|casioned great murmuring, and it was found ne|cessary to give it alternately, spruce one day, and grog another.

On their excursions, the parties were always well armed, and had marines to attend them; and their orders were never to go out of hearing of the ships guns, but to repair instantly on board on the proper signals. These precautions, however, seemed unnecessary, as they never met with any molestation from the natives, who were not nu|merous upon the coast.

On the 17th, the party that were sent out to survey the bay returned, after a diligent examina|tion of two days and two nights. Their report was, that from the elevated spot from which they had taken their survey, they could see the inlet terminate in a considerable river, which emptied itself into the sea at the head of the bay; that in its course it watered many most delightful vallies, which were bounded on every side with hills of a moderate height, interspersed with mountains or a stupendous height. This report being con|firmed by the officers who commanded the cutters from both ships, the boats were all taken on board and secured, and wood and water having been plentifully supplied, the bay and sound ex|amined, and the exact situation determined to be lat. 64.31. and long. 197.13. there remained no|thing but to name the sound, and take our leave.

In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton, then Speaker of the House of Commons, to whom Lieut. King had the honour to be nearly related, it was named Norton Sound, called by the natives Chacktoole.

On the 18th, we weighed and sailed, retracing Beering's Straits, which we had before explored, without any material accident, though we found the water to shallow, insomuch that we were forced to abandon the thoughts of passing between Bes|borough Island and the main, to more than six miles distance.

On the 19th, shoal water obliged us to haul to the Westward, by which the whole coast from 63 to 60 remains unexplored; within which, from several indications, it should seem that a consider|able river runs into the sea.

On the 20th, about two P. M. we came in sight of land, which appeared like two islands. Lat. 63.19. and at six in the evening came up with it, but found both islands in one, without either bush or tree. Course S. W.

On the 21st, saw a great number of islands; but they too, when we approached them, ap|peared all in one. Lat. 62.56. Course S. S. W.

On the 24th, we met with a dreadful tempest of wind, rain, and hail, or rather ice, between two and three inches square, by which several of our men, who were obliged to keep the deck, were severely wounded. In this long run, we passed several remarkable promontaries and islands, particularly in lat. 63.30. N. we passed two head-lands, distance from each other about half a mile. We hove-to, and our boats sounded across, in some places not above one fathom and a half. In lat. 62.56. we came in sight of a cluster of islands, as we imagined; but on our nearer approach, found them all in one, barren, and without a

shrub or tree. In lat. 60.12. we came up with a stupendous rock or high island, almost covered with snow, and without any other inhabitants ex|cept birds and seals; to this last Capt. Cook gave the name of Winter Island, from its dreary appearance.

On the 26th, the Resolution made the signal of distress. On hailing her we were informed, that she had again sprung a leak in the late violent gale, and that all hands were employed at the pumps and in baleing; and that it was with dif|ficulty they could keep her above water. Lat. 58.39.

On the 29th, we were again visited with a severe storm, and involved in heavy seas, our hull being sometimes entirely under water, and the waves rising to the yard-arms. About midnight it came on to snow, and the Resolution kept making sig|nals and firing guns all night. At day-light, we saw her distant five or six miles. We shortened sail, and waited for her coming up. And,

On the 30th, being both in company, the storm abated and the sea quite calm, both ships hove-to, and, while the carpenters were employed in stopping the leak in the Resolution, the people were busied in fishing. Those on board the Dis|covery caught 40 large cod, besides turbot, which were the more acceptable to officers and men, as our salt provisions were now very bad. Lat. 56.30. N.

On the 1st of October, we continued our course to the Southward. Lat. obs. 55.27. And

On the 2d, about five in the morning, we made land; and hauled our wind in search of Samga|noodo Harbour, on the island of Oomalashka, of which we had mistaken the entrance. About six in the evening we came in sight of a large Indian

town in a deep bay, where we found ourselves sur|rounded with whales of a prodigious size. We sounded, and found no bottom at 100 fathoms. Here some of our former friends came off to us, and being informed that our design was to anchor in our late harbour, they undertook to be our pi|lots, and one of them slept all night on board the Discovery.

On the 3d, in the morning, we found our|selves right a-breast the Race, and saw the Reso|lution just within the entrance. About two in the afternoon, the wind and tide both uniting in our favour, we safely anchored in our late birth.

All hands were now set to work, the carpenters in stripping the sheathing from the Resolution to examine her leaks, and the sail-makers, caulkers, and riggers, in their respective employments, for which there was great need, both ships having suffered much in their sails, seams, and rigging, in the late tempestuous weather, and in the icy Northern seas; but what gave the greatest plea|sure to the seamen, was the success they met with in fishing, whenever the weather was such as to suffer them to haul the seine. At the mouth of the harbour, they could at any time, in three or four hours, fill their boats with holybut of an enormous size; one of them, sent on board the Resolution, during our stay, weighed 220 lb.—Each mess had now a small cask with a quantity of salt given them, in order to make some provi|sion to help out their short allowance, which it was found necessary to continue till their arrival in the tropical islands, where the ships might again be furnished with a frefh supply.

On the 4th, our Captain went on board the Commodore, where he was acquainted by Capt. Cook with the distress of the Resolution, which

ever since the hard gale on the 26th had been ready to founder; on that day, on sounding the pumps, three feet water were found in the well; and judging the leak to proceed from the same place as before, the carpenters were employed in search of it, when, to their great surprize, they found the full casks afloat, and great quantities of pro|visions utterly spoilt. Their first care was to skuttle the bulk-heads, and to let the water down into the hold, and then the pumps were kept constantly at work to pump it out; but this was beyond their power; they could gain but little with incessant labour, and when they came into harbour had 28 inches still in the hold. The carpenters had already stript the sides of the Resolution 16 feet from the counter forwards, where they found the inside timbers so much de|cayed, that their report was, if their continuance at sea had been necessarily protracted a fortnight longer, she must have gone to the bottom.

We had still much to do, our articles for the tropical trade were nearly all exchanged, and we could expect no supplies of provisions without an equivalent. We therefore sent a small spare bower anchor on shore, and set our armourers to break it up, and make it into spikes, axes, hatchets, nails, and other tropical merchandize.

While every thing was getting ready, the of|ficers diverted themselves as usual with shoot|ing and surveying the country; and here they found amusement enough, having discovered a Russian settlement, divided only by a neck of land about 15 miles over, and a bay of about 1•• miles, which they had to cross. From this set|tlement Capt. Cook received a very singular pre+sent. It was a rye-loaf, or rather a pye, inclosing some salmon very nicely seasoned. The man who

brought it was named Derramoushk, and brought likewise a present for Capt. Clerke. These came from some Russian gentlemen settled in that neigh|bourhood. In return some bottles of rum, wine and porter were sent back by the same hand; and Corporal Lediard of the marines, a very intelli|gent person, sent to gain information, who soon returned with three Russian seamen and furriers, who, when they first discovered us at a distance from the shore, were apprehensive that we were Japanese, with whom their nation was at war; but on our nearer approach, they were convinced from the trim of our ships that we were strangers; they were therefore encouraged, by the report of the natives, to make themselves known, and to of|fer their assistance as far as lay in their power. These were received with open arms; generously entertained, and a very friendly intercourse established.

The road across the neck of land was rather rugged, but when that was surmounted, the com|munication was easy. Some of our gentlemen who went to return the visit, were met by an of|ficer, who received them politely, and directed them to the factory, where, besides the fort, they found a Russian bark of about 50 or 60 tons, eight small swivels, and one three pounder laid up for the winter, and intended for Kamsha••ska the ensuing summer. Our gentlemen were here shewn the stores belonging to the factory, con|sisting of skins and oil; their coppers for boiling the oil, with the small ware with which they traf|ficked with the natives by way of exchange. Iron instruments of war are prohibited, nor do they suffer any offensive weapons of any kind to be introduced among them. It is probable there|fore, that the long knives we saw in the possession of the more southerly Indians, were some that were

taken from those unfortunate Russians, who, on the first discovery of this continent, fell a sacri|fice to the savage barbarity of the natives. It was a little unfortunate, that we had not one per|son on board either ship that had the most distant knowledge of the Russ language; every thing was to be understood by signs. Our officers could just make out, that a Russian Captain had been murdered by the natives, and that the Russians had taken a severe revenge, and had laid the coun|try under contribution, and obliged the inhabi|tants to pay a certain annual tribute in skins; but to what extent they had subdued the country, or in what year, they could not at all understand. They learnt, that the name of the island was Noo-Oonalashkah, in lat. 53.55. long. 167.30. E. of Greenwich; that they had another settlement to the Southward, and other vessels that were con|stantly employed in trading with the natives, and collecting their skins and oil; that the fac|tory was supposed to clear about 100,000 ru|bles annually by this trade; and that it was in|creasing; that their only guard consisted of a|bout 40 Kamshatskadale Russians, and 300 na|tives, over whom they were obliged to keep a watchful eye. Our gentlemen's entertainment there was rather friendly than sumptuous; they had dried venison, dried salmon, and great variety of other fish, dressed after the Russian manner; their biscuit was black, and their bread rye; their butter not extraordinary; their wine and brandy, the Indians who conducted the gentlemen earned, from the ships, with which the Russian officers made very free. The evening; being spent in mutual enquiries, by which neither side could receive much satisfaction, they were shewn to the apart|ments prepared for them, where they slept un|disturbed.

In the morning they renewed their enquiries, and the Russians, by exhibiting the chart of their discoveries and conquests, gave our gentlemen more satisfactory information than they could otherwise have obtained. They observed a remarkable conformity between those charts ex|hibited by the Russians as far as they went, and their own. The Russian discoveries extended from the 49th to the 64th degree of Northern latitude, by which the impracticability which we had discovered of a North-west passage by any strait or sound was fully confirmed.

They were now equally communicative to each other; the Russian gentlemen were desirous of knowing the names of the navigators and ships, with the expedition they were engaged in; and they were invited on board to receive further information. To this they readily agreed; and as soon as our gentlemen had satisfied their curiosity; had visited the Russian houses, which were built with timber, and those of the natives built with poles and earth; had remarked the simplicity of the latter, which seemed but one degree above the level of the beavers they hunt|ed; and of the former, that was little more than a degree above those of the natives; they set out upon their return to the ships, accompanied by the Russian gentlemen, by whom they had been entertained.

About five in the evening, they all came on board the Resolution: the Russian gentlemen were received by Capt. Cook with that fami|liarity and politeness that was natural to him; they were taken into the great cabin, where both Captains with their principal officers and gen|tlemen were assembled to entertain them, and where the bottle was pretty briskly pushed about,

as that was the principal subject in which the strangers could bear a part. Here they were in|terrogated as to the time generally taken up in making the voyage to Kamshatska, which they answered, by dividing the year into twelve parts, and pointing to the two middlemost. As the master of the vessel which lay at Aegoochskach was of the company, he was asked at what time he expected to arrive at Kamshatska. He answered about the 9th month, meaning in July. He was then requested to take letters with him to be for|warded to England through Russia, should it so happen that he should arrive at that port before us. This charge he readily undertook; and, being pretty well plied with liquor, they slept on board the Resolution, and next day came on board the Discovery, where they dined, and, be|ing amply supplied with grog, went jovially away in the afternoon.

Before our departure, we were visited by the Principal of the Russian factory, whose name was Erasim Gergorioffzin Izmyloff. He came from the Southward, accompanied by a number of In|dian canoes, laden with skins, who on coming ashore in the harbour, instantly began erecting a tent, which in half an hour they finished, cover|ing it with skins. He was received on board the Resolution with the respect due to his rank; and by his deportment it was easy to perceive that he was of family. He was a young gentleman of a fair complexion, and graceful stature, and, though differing but little in point of dress from those by whom we had been visited before, he was, not|withstanding, very different in his manners and behaviour. He had travelled much, but chiefly in these savage countries, and in the Northern parts of Asia, and understood, and could talk the

language of the natives, but could speak no European language, except his own. He was handsomely entertained on board both ships, and had every attention paid him that, in our situa|tion, he had reason to expect; nor was he insen|sible of our civilities. He wrote a letter, directed to the Governor of Kamshatska, which he re|quested Capt. Cook to deliver. It contained, as we afterwards understood, a detail of his own mercantile affairs, and a representation of us, as trading with the Indians. He told us, that his residence was on the coast, off which he had re|ceived a note in a little box, and that he was the person who wrote that note and sent it. Some presents reciprocally passed: those on his part were cloaks and skins; on ours, tobacco and spirituous liquors, of both which we observed the Russians to be immoderately fond.

After sleeping on board the ships two nights, and observing, with an attentive eye, the diffe|rent employments of the artificers, and examin|ing the various conveniencies and accommoda|tions which we had on board, he took his leave on the 26th, intending to make some stay at the settlement of Egooschac, which the gentlemen of the Resolution had just visited.

From this gentleman Capt. Cook received much useful information. He had some excel|lent maps and charts of the Northern coasts and islands, which never had been published, but which had every mark of authenticity. He said, there were only two harbours on the peninsula of Kamtschatka that were fit to receive ships of burden; the bay of Awatska and the river Oluto|ra: as to the many islands to the North of Kamt|schatka, lying between that and the coasts of America, which had found place in former maps,

were wholly omitted and others added, by which the Captain was enabled to compleat his own. From the information given by this gentleman, we have been able to correct our own map pre|fixed to this voyage, with respect to the situation of islands between the Bay of Awatska, and the country of Alascha, the name by which the con|tinent of this part of America is known to the Russians, and called by the natives.

There are, it seems, Russians settled on all the principal islands between Oonalashka and Kamt|schatka, for the purpose of collecting furs. Their great object is the sea-beaver or otter. The na|tives are a quiet inoffensive people, and for ho|nesty might serve as an example to the most en|lightened people upon earth. The latitude of Saganoodha harbour is 53.5. longitude 193.11.

On the 25th, the repairs of both ships being compleated, and the wind coming fair to the Southward, we unmoored and were preparing to sail, when the Resolution, on clearing the harbour, run upon a rock, and, it was feared, had re|ceived much damage, as at low water she swayed 13 inches, and it was twelve at night before she was disengaged. This necessarily retarded our de|parture; and happily it was that we were got safe into harbour, for a storm arose, which tumbled the waters into the race with unexampled fury.

On the 26th, the wind abated and came fair to carry us to sea, and the ship being found unhurt, we weighed, and, having cleared the harbour, made sail, directing our course up the race, to the N. W. At eight o'clock we were out of the race, but still continued our course to the West|ward, when at midnight a heavy gale came on attended with snow and rain.

On the 27th, the gale still continuing, to add to our labour, we sprung a leak, which kept us to the pumps till the storm abated. While it was at the height, it carried away our fore and main|tacks, and, in endeavouring to save them, John Mackintosh, seaman, was struck dead, and the boatswain and four men were much wounded.

On the 28th, having lost sight of the Resolu|tion in the heavy gale, about three in the morn|ing we heard her signal for wearing. Lat. 53.52.

On the 29th, about eight A. M. we again saw land, supposed to be the island called Amogh|ta, and by ten were in danger of perishing on a lee-shore. At eleven our people in taking in a reef of the fore-top-sail, called out a ship under sail, bearing N. N. W. but on a nearer view found it an elevated rock covered with snow. Lat. 53.57. long. 191.192.

On the 30th, we were again within the race, and at six in the evening passed the entrance of our harbour, when five canoes made towards us; but being now in full sail, intending to leave the coast, our leak not being found dangerous, they were unable to overtake us, nor did we think it of consequence to lie bye till they should come up.

On the 31st, we pursued our course to the Southward. Lat. 52.3.

On the 1st of November, we once more stood to the Southward, after which no accident, or any thing worth relating happened, till our ar|rival on the coast of O-why-e, so called by the Russians, and by Capt. Cook Providence harbour, except that on the 7th a cormorant was seen to fly several times round the Resolution; which was the more noticed as those birds are never seen far from land, and none was near.

On the 26th, being then in lat. 21.15. about six A. M. we came in sight of land, bearing from S. S. W. to N. W. very high and beau|tiful; we were then so much in want of provi|sions, that Capt. Clerke, much against his in|clination, was under the necessity of substitut|ing stock-fish in the room of beef; but we were no sooner well in with the land, than we were visited by many of the inhabitants, who came off with their canoes with all sorts of provisions which their island afforded; and every man on board, had leave to purchase what he could for his own subsistence. This diffused a joy among the mariners that is not easy to be expressed. From a sullenness and discontent visible in every countenance the day before, all was chearfulness, mirth and jollity. Fresh provisions and kind damsels are the sailors sole delight; and when in possession of these, past hardships are instantly forgotten: even those whom the scurvy had at|tacked, and had rendered pale and lifeless as ghosts, brightened upon this occasion, and for the moment appeared alert. This flattering beginning, however, yielded no substantial re|lief. The boats that were sent to sound the shore, and to look for a harbour, went out day after day, without being able to discover so much as a safe anchorage, and we were longer in finding a harbour than in making the coast. Nothing could be more toilsome or distressing than our present situation; within sight of land, yet unable to reach it; driven out to sea, by one storm, and in danger of being wrecked on the breakers by another. At length, after having examined the leeward side of the island, Captain Cook made the signal to stand out to sea. This was on the 7th of December, when it was de|termined

to take a long stretch, in order, if pos|sible, to get round the S. E. extremity, and to ex|amine the weathermost side, where we were told there was a safe harbour. In this attempt we split our main-top-mast-stay-sail, and lost sight of the Resolution. The weather continuing tem|pestuous for many days, heavy complaints again prevailed among the ship's company. Their sufferings, from incessant labour and scanty provisions, were grown confessedly grievous. Their grog, that had been stopped as soon as we arrived upon the coast, was again dealt out to them as usual; and it was with the kindest treatment from their officers, that the men could be kept to their duty; yet on Christmas-day, when each man was allowed a pint of brandy, and free leave to enjoy himself as he liked, not a murmur was heard; they the very next day returned to business, and continued it without repining, till

The 16th of January, 1779, when, after a series of the most tempestuous weather that ever happened in that climate, the boats from both ships were sent out to examine a fine bay, where we were informed there was a harbour in which we might safely moor, and where we should be supplied with materials to refit the ships, and provisions to victual them. In the evening the boats returned with the joyful news, that they had succeeded in their search, and that the har|bour promised fair to answer all that had been said of it.

On the 17th our boats were employed in towing the ships into harbour in sight of the greatest multitude of Indian spectators in canoes and on shore, that we had ever seen assembled to|gether in any part of our voyage. It was con|cluded,

that their number could not be less than 2 or 3000. While we were hovering upon the coast, we had often been visited by 200 canoes at a time, who came to trade, and who brought us provisions when the weather would permit; and, besides provisions, they brought us great quantities of cordage, salt, and other manufactures of the island, which the Captains purchased for the use of the ships, and without which we could not have subsisted; for during the tempestuous weather our cordage snapped rope after rope, so that our spare hands were incessantly employed, night and day, in knotting and splicing, of which there was no end.

This day, before two o'clock, P. M. we were safely moored in 17 fathom water, in company with the Resolution, which a few days before we had given over for lost. From the time of at|tempting to get round the island, till the 8th of January, we had never been able to get sight of her, though both ships were constantly looking out to find each other. They had suffered much in their masts and rigging, and were happy at last, as well as ourselves, to find a convenient harbour to refit. We were scarce moored, when a young man, of majestic appearance, came along side, and after an oration, and the usual ceremonies of peace had passsed on both sides, he came on board, bring|ing with him a small barbecued hog, some ready-dressed bread-fruit, and a curious mantle of red cloth, as presents to the Captain; and in return was complimented with several axes, looking-glasses, bracelets, and other shewy articles that attracted his notice. While he was busy in ad|miring every thing he saw on board the Discovery, the pinnace was ordered out, and he with his at|tendants were taken to Capt. Cook, where he

found another Chief, of a still more graceful as|pect, named Kaneena. All these were received with all possible respect. In the mean time came in another Chief, named Koah, who was soon dis|covered to be a priest; but who, in his youth, had been a distinguished warrior. After entertaining them with music, and inviting them to partake of such refreshments as the ship afforded, and mak|ing them some handsome presents, the Captain acquainted them with his wants, by shewing them the condition of his ship, and requesting a small portion of ground to land his materials, and to erect his tents. This request was readily granted, at the same time giving the Captain to understand, that the great King was absent, that he had lately been at war with the King of the neighbouring island of Maw-whee, that he was employed in set|tling the terms of peace, and that in less than ten days he was expected home. That they might, notwithstanding, land whatever they thought fit; and that the ground they had occasion for should be marked out and taboo'd, that is, appropriated to their use, without any of the natives being per|mitted to encroach upon it. Both Captains very readily embraced the offer, and prepared to ac|company their benefactors to the town near which they wished to pitch their tents. Upon their land|ing, several vacant plats of ground were shewn them, and, when they had made their choice, stakes were ordered to be driven at certain dis|tances, and a line to be carried round, within which the common people were forbidden to en|ter, under the severest penalties. Matters being thus amicably settled, no time was lost on our part to get every thing on shore. The tents, the armourer's forge, the masts, the sails, the rigging, the water-casks, the bread, the flour, the powder,

in short, every article that wanted either to be re|viewed or repaired were sent on shore; and not the least interruption was given to the boats em|ployed in the carriage, or insult offered to the persons who conducted them. On the contrary, the Chiefs offered some empty houses, that were conveniently situated near the new dock (if that may be so termed where our artificers were set to work) for the sick to lodge till their recovery. No strangers were ever more hospitably received.

On the morning after our people landed, six large double canoes were seen entering the har|bour at a great rate, having not less than 30 pad|dles to each canoe, with upwards of 60 Indians on board, most of them naked. Seeing them on their nearer approach making towards the ships, the Captains ordered the guns to be shotted, the marines to be drawn up, and every man to be ready at his post; the Indians assembled so fast, that before noon, the ships were surrounded with more than 100 canoes, in which there were not less than 1000 Indians. They at first traded friendly, having hogs in abundance, and plenty of bread-fruit, plantains, bananoes, and whatever else the island produced; but they had not been there long, before a large stone was thrown in at the cabin-window of the Discovery, by an invisible hand. A watch was instantly set, and in less than half an hour another stone was thrown at the caulkers, as they were at work on a stage on the ship's side. The offender was seen, and in sight of the Chiefs, and the whole multitude, he was seized, brought on board, tied to the shrouds, and punished with fifty lashes. In a few minutes, such was their fright, there was not an Indian to be seen near the ships.—Like unlucky boys, when one is apprehended for some naughty trick, the rest

commonly fly the place.—And in fact, these peo|ple are in many respects like children, and in none more than in this instance. Before the day closed, they all again returned to trade, and, when night approached, not a male was to be seen; but swarms of females, who came to sleep on board, though much against the will of Capt. Cook, who, upon the first arrival of the ships upon the coast, wished to have prohibited all commerce with the women of the island; but he soon found, that if that commerce was forbidden, all other trade must cease of course, for not a pig could be purchased, unless a girl was permitted to bring it to market.

There are who have blamed Capt. Cook for his severity to the Indians; but it was not to the In|dians alone that he was severe in his discipline. He never suffered any fault in his own people, though ever so trivial, to escape unpunished. If they were charged with insulting an Indian, or injuring him in his property, if the fact was proved, the offender was surely punished in sight of the Indians. By this impartial distribution of justice, the Indians themselves conceived so high an idea of his wisdom, and his power too, that they paid him the same honours as they did their Et-u-a, or Good Spirit.

The caulkers, who have already been men|tioned, when they came round in course to the after-part of the Resolution, found that, besides the seams that wanted closing, there were other more material defects. The rudder's eyes were almost eaten through with rust, and the bolts ready to tumble out. This was an alarming defect; and all other business was suspended till that was re|paired.

Every thing went on now as smoothly as could be wished. The Chiefs, if they saw any of their own people misbehave, would themselves give in|formation, and bring them to punishment; they were so very obliging, that, seeing us in want of wood to burn, they made an offer of a high fence, that surrounded the Morai, adjoining to the town, for a present supply.

On the 19th, being the fourth day after our ar|rival, several very large canoes were seen to come from the S. E. We at first thought they were the friends with whom we had traded on the other side of the island; but on their nearer approach, we found they were all armed and clothed in the military uniform, after their country manner. This gave us cause to suspect some traiterous de|sign, but our fears were in some measure dissipated by the assurances we received from our friends on board, that they were some of the warriors that had accompanied the King in his expedition against the Eree of Maw-wee, and that they were now returning home in triumph; but, notwith|standing this assurance, it was thought prudent to be upon our guard, and the rather as the women who were on board, told us, that their people de|signed to attack us, and to mattee, that is, to kill us every one.

Next day, before nine in the morning, more than a thousand Indians surrounded the Discovery, insomuch that pressing their weight chiefly on one side, the ship was in danger of being over-set. The Captain ordered two great guns to be fired, in order to try what effect that would have in dis|persing them. In less than three minutes, there were a thousand heads to be seen above water, so many having jumped into the sea, frighted on the sudden report of the guns; neither did a single canoe come near us all the next day. Some of the

women however remained on board, who never could be prevailed on to shew themselves upon deck in the day-time; but whether from fear of their own people, or of the great guns, we never could learn. As all trade was now stopt, and no|thing brought on board for our subsistence, Capt. Cook went on shore to expostulate with the Chiefs, and by some trifling presents to engage them to trade as before; threatening at the same time to lay their towns waste, if they refused to supply the ships with the provisions they stood in need of. His remonstrances had the desired effect, and next day we purchased not less than 60 large hogs, with great quantities of fruits and vegetables for the ships use.

In a few days after this, the old King Terreeoboo was seen to enter the harbour, on his return from Maw-wee. In the afternoon he visited the ship in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He staid on board till near ten at night, when he returned to the village Kowrowa.

The next day about noon, the King, in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled towards the ships, in great state. Their appearance was grand and magni|ficent. In the first canoe was Terreeoboo, and his Chiefs, dressed in their feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers. In the second, came the venerable Kaoo, the Chief of the Priests, and his brethren, with their idols dis|played on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gi|gantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously co|vered with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a

double row of the fangs of dogs; and together, with the rest of their features, were strangely dis|torted. The third canoe was filled with hogs, and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the Priests, in the centre canoe, sung their hymns with great solemnity; and after paddling round the ships, instead of going on board as was ex|pected, they made towards the shore, at the beach where our men were stationed. On their approach, the guard was instantly ordered out to receive the King; and Capt. Cook, perceiving he was going on shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. They were conducted into the tent, where they had scarce been seated, when the King rose up, and, in a very graceful manner, threw over the Captain's shoulders, the cloak he him|self wore, put a feathered helmet upon his head, and a curious fan in his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of great value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread fruit. This part of the ceremony over, they all made a circle round with their images in procession, till they arrived at their Morai, where they placed their deities, and deposited their arms.

Next day both Captains, accompanied with se|veral of their officers, went to pay the King a vi|sit on shore. They were very respectfully received, and having dined after the Indian manner, the King rose, and clothing Capt. Cook with a man|tle, such as is worn by the great Oreno in grand procession, he was conducted to the morai, or place of worship, where a garland of green plan|tain leaves was put upon his head, and he was seated on a kind of throne, and had the honour of exchanging names with the King, the strongest

pledge of friendship these islanders can confer. He was now addressed in a long oration by a priest clothed in a vestment of party-coloured cloth, who concluded the solemnity with a choral hymn, in which he was joined by all the priests present; who had no sooner finished their song than they all fell at his feet, the King acquainting him, that this was now his building, and that he was from henceforth their Orono. From this time an Indian Priest was, by the King's order, placed at the head of his pinnace, at whose approach the Indians in their canoes, as he passed them, prostrated themselves till he was out of sight; and this they did when the Captain was alone: but the Priests had orders from the King, whenever the Captain came ashore in his pinnace, to attend him, and conduct him to his house, which the sailors now called Cook's Altar.

When all these solemnities were over, we were not a little astonished to find in this King, the same infirm, emaciated, old man, that came on board Capt. Cook when off the island of Ma-wee; and it was soon discovered, that he was then ac|companied with the same persons, viz. his two younger sons, one sixteen, the other twelve, with his nephew Maiha-Macha, a man of a most savage countenance.

[When we first approached the coast of this island of O why hee, we were astonished at the sight of a mountain of a stupendous height, whose head was covered with snow. This was so rare a sight in an island between the tropics, that several of the officers and gentlemen from both ships were desirous of taking a nearer view of it; and for that purpose they requested the King's permission, and a guide to attend them, which was readily granted,

and no less than ten Indians contended which should accompany them.]

On the 26th Mr. Nelson, our botanist, and four other gentlemen set out in the morning on this expedition, which they afterwards found attended with no small fatigue, and not a little danger; for after travelling two days and two nights, and ex|periencing the greatest fatigue and hardships; no water, no paths to direct their way; no inhabitants for many miles, and the cold excessive as they approached the mountain, which seemed covered with snow, they were glad to get back without any accident. In the course of their journey, they were directed to the cottage of an old hermit, who, they said, had formerly been a great war|rior; but who, for several years past, had retired to this sequestered spot. He received them with|out any kind of emotion, but would accept of no|thing that they offered him. He appeared by far the oldest man they had seen on the island.

On the 29th they returned to the ships, and the only advantage that accrued from their journey, was, a curious assortment of indigenous plants and some natural curiosities, collected by Mr. Nelson. During their absence every thing remained quiet at the tents, and the Indians supplied the ships with such quantities of provisions of all kinds, that orders were given to purchase no more hogs in one day than could be killed, salted, and stowed away the next day. This order was in conse|quence of a former order, to purchase all that could be procured for sea-stock; by which so many were brought on board, that several of them died be|fore they could be properly disposed of.

It had been generally thought impracticable to cure the flesh of these animals in the tropical cli|mates; and it is believed, that few trials had ever

been made before those of Capt. Cook. In his first voyage in 1774, he first made the attempt, but not very successfully. But it was now be|come absolutely necessary, either to perfect the discovery, or relinquish the voyage.

The method we took was always to slaughter them in the afternoon, and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and the entrails removed, the carcass was divided into pieces, from four to eight pounds each, and the bones of the chine and legs taken out, and, in the large sort, the ribs also. Every piece being then carefully wiped and examined, that no bruise might escape, and all the veins cleared out, that no coagulated blood might re|main, they were then handed to the salters while the flesh was still warm. After they had been well rubbed with salt, they were then placed in a heap on a stage, raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with the heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this situation they lay till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the suspicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of strong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken salt, which was readily discovered by the smell, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces put to fresh pickle, and the other either used immediately, or thrown away. This, however, seldom happened. After six days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and being again lightly pressed, they were packed in barrels with a thin layer of salt between them. Some of this pork was brought to England, per|fectly sweet and good.

On the 1st of February, 1779, William Wat|man, gunner's mate, died. His body in the af|ternoon was carried on shore in the pinnace, and

buried, according to his own desire, in the Morai belonging to the King. The Indians who dug his grave about four feet deep, covered the bottom of it with green leaves; and when the corpse was de|posited in the earth, the Chiefs who attended the funeral, put a barbecued hog at the head, and another at the feet, with a quantity of bread-fruit, plantains and bananas. More was going to be added, when Capt. Cook ordered the grave to be covered up, and a post erected to the memory of the deceased, inscribed with his name, the date of the year, day of his death, and the nation to which he belonged. From this circumstance, Capt. Cook gave this port the name of Watman's Harbour. The next day the Indians rolled large stones over his grave, and brought two barbecued hogs, plantains and bananas, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit, which they placed over his grave, upon a stage erected for that purpose.

We were now preparing to depart, when our Captain was presented by the King with twelve large hogs, three boats-load of bread-fruit, pota|toes, sugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts; and the same present was made to Capt. Cook.

This day, Feb. 2, the King came on board, attended with twenty of his Chiefs, and gave the Captains of both ships, with their officers, an in|vitation to an heiva, in which many of the prin|cipal Chiefs were to be performers. Capt. Clerke excused himself from ill health; but Capt. Cook and the other Gentlemen promised to attend.

The same day the King and his Chiefs dined on board the Resolution, and were entertained with music, the whole band having orders to play all the while they sat at dinner. They were highly delighted with the music, and would not suffer the performers to rest a moment.

About four in the afternoon, the pinnaces from both ships were ordered to be in readiness to take the company ashore, with their pendants and co|lours displayed, to do honour to a king and peo|ple, by whom we had been so hospitably enter|tained. More than 200 canoes attended us to shore, where a number of Chiefs were ready to receive us, who ail observed a profound silence at our landing, and conducted us to the place ap|pointed for the entertainment. But we were much disappointed by the performers, who were far in|ferior to those of the Southern islands.

The only part of the performance that was to|lerable, was their singing, with which the heiva or play concluded; the young princesses, the chiefs, and even the king himself joining in the chorus.

The play being ended, Capt. Cook acquainted the King that, with his permission, he would ex|hibit some fire-works, that, if they did not frighten, would very much astonish his people. The King very readily gave his consent; and the engineer was ordered to begin his exhibition as soon as it was dark. On the rising of the first sky-rocket, the Indians fled precipitately, and hid themselves in the houses, or wherever they could find any shelter; at first there were some thousand spectators; but in less than ten minutes there were not fifty to be seen, the King and his attendants excepted, whom the Captain and the gentlemen with the greatest difficulty persuaded to stay. When the second rose up in the air, lamentations were heard from every quarter; and when the water-rockets were played off, the King and his Chiefs were hardly to be restrained. Other fire-works it was found dangerous to exhibit, as these had already struck the spectators, the King as well as his people, with a general panic. We therefore took leave of

the King and Royal family, and returned on board our respective ships. The King having been made to understand that we should sail the first fair wind, came next morning to visit the Captains of both ships, who were now preparing to sail. This being publicly known, the Indians in general expressed their concern, but particu|larly the young women, whose lamentations were heard from every quarter.

In the evening of the 4th of February, all hands were mustered, and none were missing.

In the morning of the 5th, we cleared the har|bour, shaping our course for Maw-wee, as we had been informed by the King, that in that island there was a fine harbour and excellent water. We had not been long under sail, when the King, who had omitted to take his leave of our Captain in the morning, as not suspecting our departure so sudden, came after the ships, accompanied by the young prince, his son, in a sailing canoe, bringing with them ten large hogs, a great number of fowls, and a small turtle (a great rarity) with bread-fruit in abundance. They also brought with them great quantities of cocoa-nuts, plan|tains, and sugar-canes.

Besides other persons of condition who acom|panied the King, there was an old priest, Kaoa, who had always shewn a particular attachment to Capt. Clerke, and who had not been unrewarded for his civility. It being rather late when they reached the ships, they staid on board but a few hours, and then all departed except the old priest and some girls, who by the King's permission were suffered to remain on board till they should arrive at some of the neighbouring isles. We were now steering with a fine breeze, but just at the close of the evening, to our great mortifica|tion,

the wind died away, and a great swell suc|ceeding, with a strong current setting right in for the shore, we were in the utmost danger of being driven upon the rocks. In the height of our dis|tress and trouble, the old priest, who had been suffered to sleep in the great cabin, leapt over|board unseen, with a piece of silk, the Captain's property, and swam to shore.

The next day, seeing a large canoe between us and the shore, we hove-to for her coming up, and to our great surprize perceived the old King, accompanied by several of his Chiefs, having in their vessel the priest who had stolen the silk, whom the King delivered to the Captain, at the same time requesting that his fault might be for|given. The King being told that his request was granted, unbound him, and set him at liberty; telling the Captain that, seeing him with the silk, he judged it was none of his own, and therefore ordered him to be apprehended; and had taken this method of exposing him for injuring his friend. This singular instance of Indian generosity and justice, ought not to be forgotten. It appears, however, that this old priest, who had changed names, and was proud of being called Bretanne, had slipt away from Mr. Bligh, master of the Re|solution, to whom he had pretended to discover a much more commodious harbour, than that of Kakooa, which they had just left. As soon as they had delivered the silk, which the Captain would have had the King to accept, they departed, and had scarce reached the shore, when a heavy gale came on, with thunder, lightning, and hard rain. We wore ship, and continued working off the land all night, and soon lost sight of the Reso|lution, who, as well as the Discovery, continued bea••ing about the island seven days successively, in

dread every moment of being wrecked upon the coast. On the fourth day, after we had lost sight of the Resolution, the storm being a little abated, we observed her under a high part of the island, lying with her fore-top-gallant-mast down, her fore-top-sail-yard upon the cap, and the sail furled, which gave us reason to suppose that some acci|dent had befallen her; and as we expected, so we found it. We stood down for her with a heavy gale; but it was not till next day that we could come to speak with her. Capt. Cook himself be|ing upon deck when we came up, informed us that he had sprung his fore-mast in two different places; that the ship was leaky, and that it was with the greatest difficulty they kept her above water. He further said, that on the 7th in the morning they discovered the leak; that at that time they made thirty inches of water in three hours; and that ever since all hands had been constantly employed night and day in baling and pumping; we likewise understood, that they had split their main-top-sail, and that they were now bound to our late harbour to repair their damage. We pursued the same course; but it was not till the 11th, when we opened on the bay in which lay our port. We were very soon surrounded with our old friends, who brought us hogs, bread-fruit, plantains, bananoes, and cocoa-nuts, which they threw on board, without waiting for any re|compense. We were likewise visited by the old King, the Prince, and many of the Chiefs, who came to welcome us, and who were seemingly glad of our return. About ten in the morning, both ships moored near their old birth, and pre|sently all hands were set to work to strip the mast, and to carry it on shore to be repaired.

The next day the King came again on board, and mutual presents and mutual civilities were continued as usual: but about five in the after|noon, there came along-side a large canoe, with about 60 of their fighting men, all armed, with little or no provisions on board, and who seemed to have no good design. Our Captain observing their motions, ordered the guns to be shotted, and every man to his post. About six, they departed, without offering the least insult; but soon after we saw, upon a high hill, a large body assembled, who were observed to be gathering stones, and laying them in heaps. At dark they were seen to disperse; but great lights and fires were kept burning all night.

In the morning of the 13th, they again assem|bled, and began rolling the stones from the brink of the hill, in order, as we supposed, to divert our attention, but which rather served to awaken our fears. Our Captains looking upon this as an insult, ordered the guns to be levelled, and fired among them, and in ten minutes there was not an Indian to be seen near the place.

In the afternoon, the King came on board the Resolution, and complained to Capt. Cook of our killing two of his people, intimating at the same time, that they had not the least intention of hurt|ing us. He continued on board some hours, amusing himself with seeing the armourers at work; and when he departed, requested that they might be permitted to make him a Pahoo-a, (an instrument they use in battle when they come to close quarters) which was readily granted.

From this time forward the natives became very tumultuous and unruly, and stole every thing they could lay their hands on, with any tolerable chance of escaping. They were fired upon, but

that only enraged them. One who had just stolen the armourer's tongs and an iron chisel, with both which he was making to shore, was intercepted by Capt. Cook himself, who, with a few marines, endeavoured to seize him as he was landing; but the Indians seeing his design, came rushing in a body to the water-side, among whom the fellow found means to secrete himself; and the multi|tude, instead of delivering him up, attacked the boats that were in pursuit of him, seized their oars, broke them, and forced our whole party to retreat.

Capt. Cook having only a few marines with him, part of those who were placed as a guard to the carpenters employed upon the mast, did not think proper to renew the attack; but returned to the tents, ordering a strict watch to be kept during the night, and his whole force to be kept under arms till the matter should be accommo|dated. For this purpose, Mr. Edgar, our master, was sent with a message to the young prince, who from the beginning had behaved friendly, to ac|quaint him with the cause of the fray, and to de|mand the delinquent to be delivered up. The prince, instead of listening to his remonstrances, assumed another countenance, and Mr. Edgar was very roughly handled, and glad to make his escape with a sound beating.

The temper of the Indians was now totally changed, and they became every day more and more troublesome.

On the 14th, a vast multitude of them were seen together, making great lamentation, and moving slowly along to the beating of a drum, that scarce gave a stroke in a minute. From this circumstance, it was supposed they were burying the dead, who had been killed the day before.

No violence, however, was either done or at|tempted this day, though the girls that were on board gave us to understand, that their country|men only waited a favourable opportunity to attack the ships.

On the morning of the 15th, our great cutter, which was moored to the buoy, was missing from her moorings, and, upon examination, the boat's painter was found cut two fathoms from the buoy, and the remainder of the rope gone with the boat.

This gave cause to suspect that some villainy was concerting; and, in order to prevent the ill-consequences that might follow, both Captains met on board the Resolution, to consult what was best to be done on this critical occasion. The officers from both ships were present at this coun|cil, where it was resolved to seize the King, and to confine him on board till the boat should be returned.

With this view, early on the morning of the 16th, Capt. Cook, with Mr. Phillips, Lieutenant of Marines, and nine of his men, went on shore, under cover of the guns of both ships, to one side of the bay where the King resided; and Mr. King, second Lieutenant of the Resolution, who had always been stationed with a guard to protect the working party and the waterers on shore, went, as usual, to the other side. The Indians, observing our motions, and seeing the ships warp|ing towards the towns, of which there were two, one on each side the bay, they concluded that our design was to seize their marine. In consequence of which, most of their large war canoes took the alarm, and were making off, when our guns, loaded with grape and canister shot, drove them back; and the Captain and his guard landed without opposition. We observed, however, that their warriors were clothed in their military dress,

though without arms, and that they were gather|ing together in a body from every direction, their Chiefs assuming a very different countenance to what they usually wore upon all former occasions. However, Capt. Cook, attended by the Lieute|nant of Marines, a Serjeant, and nine privates, regardless of appearances, proceeded directly to the King's residence, where they found him seated on the ground, with about twelve of his Chiefs round him, who all prostrated themselves on see|ing the Orono enter. The Captain addressed the King in the mildest terms, assuring him that no violence was intended against his person or any of his peo|ple, except against those who had been guilty of a most unprecedented act of robbery, by cutting from her moorings one of the ship's boats, with|out which they could neither conveniently water the ships, nor carry on the necessary communica|tion with the shore; calling upon the King, at the same time, to give orders for the boat to be immediately restored, and inviting him, in the most friendly manner, to accompany him on board, till his orders should be carried into execution. The King protested his total ignorance of the theft; said, he was very ready to assist in disco|vering the thief, and should be glad to see him punished; and shewed no unwillingness himself to trust his person with the Orono, though he had lately exercised very unusual severities against his people. He was told that the tumultuous ap|pearance of his people, and their repeated rob|beries, made some uncommon severities necessary; but that not the least hurt should be done to the meanest inhabitant of his island by any person belonging to the ships, without exemplary pu|nishment; and all that was necessary for the con|tinuance of peace was, to pledge himself for the

honesty of his people. With that view, and that view only, the Captain said he came to request the King to place confidence in him, and to make his ship his residence, as the most effectual means of putting a stop to the robberies that were now daily and hourly committed and committing, by his people, both at the tents and on board the ships, and were so daring as to become insufferable. The King, upon this remonstrance, was preparing to comply, and his two sons were actually on board the pinnace to accompany the Orono, when a wo|man, mother to the boys, and a great favourite of the King's, came after them, and, with many tears and entreaties, besought them to come on shore and not to go on board the ships. The Chiefs, at the same time, began to take the alarm; but the good old King, not yet suspecting, or pretending not to suspect, any treachery, had made himself ready to accompany the Captain, and was actually on his way; but by this time the women and children were sent away, and the men put on their war mats, and armed them|selves, and so great a body of Indians were got together, and had lined the shore, that it was im|possible they could break through the multitude, who now began to behave outrageously, and to insult the guard. Capt. Cook, observing their behaviour, gave orders to the officer of marines to make way, and if any one opposed, to fire upon and instantly dispatch him. This order the Lieutenant endeavoured to carry into execution, and a lane was made for the King and his Chiefs to get to the boats; but they had scarce reached the water-side, when the word was given, that the Orono (for so they called Capt. Cook) was about to carry off their King to kill him. In an instant a number of their fighting men broke

from the crowd, and with clubs and stones rushed in upon the guard, four of whom were presently dispatched. A ruffian making a stroke at Capt. Cook, was shot dead by the Captain himself, who, having a double-barreled gun, was aiming at another, when a savage came behind him, and striking him on the head with his club, felled him to the ground; and then thrust his pahooa through his body with such force, that, entering between his shoulders, the point of it came out at his breast. The quarrel now became general. The guns from the ships began to pour in their fire upon the crowd, and the musquetry from the boars; but such was their intrepidity, that, con|trary to all expectation, they stood their ground, and carried off in triumph the bodies of the dead.

Besides Capt. Cook, whose death was univer|sally deplored, Corporal Thomas, and three pri|vates, Hinkes, Allen, and Fadget, fell victims to their fury; and three more of the marines were desperately wounded. Lieut. Phillips, who had received a wound between the shoulders with a pahooa, shot the man dead who had wounded him, just as he was going to repeat his blow: it seemed as if it was against our Commodore that their vengeance was chiefly directed, by whose order they supposed their king was to be forced on board, and punished at his discretion. Seeing him fall, they set up a great shout, and his body was instantly surrounded by the enemy, who snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, they shewed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction.

Thus fell the greatest navigator that this or any other nation could boast; the account of whose death was transmitted to England by Pro|fessor

[figure] depiction of the murder of Captain Cook at Hawaii

Representation of the Murder of Capt Cook at O'Why-ee

Pallas, from Petersburg, long before the arrival of our journalist; and with such circum|stances of agreement in the principal facts, as suf|ficiently prove the authenticity of both.

The Professor says,

"The inhabitants shewed Capt. Cook (during his first stay) a respect that bordered on adoration; but on his second land|ing they grew more thievish than before; and at last, the cutter belonging to the Discovery was cut loose and carried away. The day after this happened the Captain, with his Lieutenant, and nine marines, landed. He went up to the re|sidence of the chief Terreboo. He was received with respect; but he found a great crowd assem|bled with the chief. Some of them grew inso|lent as he made his complaints; one of them in particular indulged his grimaces in so provoking a manner, that the Captain discharged at him the shot of his fowling-piece. On which a ge|neral commotion ensued. The Lieutenant fired, and killed one dead upon the spot; but instead of dispersing, they now made a general attack, and though the marines fired one round with great effect, the crowd was not intimidated, but rushed on with such rapidity, that there was no time to load again. In the first onset Capt. Cook and four of his people were unhappily killed upon the spot; and it was with great difficulty that the Lieutenant and the remaining marines could make their retreat, most of them wounded; and it would have been almost impossible for them to have escaped, had it not been for the fire from the pinnace and long-boat, that lay at some dis|tance from the beach. Capt. Clerke saw no pos|sibility of revenging the loss of his gallant coun|tryman but with great slaughter, he therefore

kept upon the defensive."

—To return to our Journalist.

The dead being past recovery, the distressed situation of the living was now to be regarded. The Resolution was without her mast, and lay in a manner at the mercy of the savages, who it was every moment expected, would have cut away her moorings and drifted her on shore. It was therefore the first care of Capt. Clerke, who succeeded to the command, to order the mast to be floated away, and to get the tents and all our other baggage on board. For this purpose no time was to be lost. While many of the na|tives lay dead upon the beach, it was judged the properest time to take advantage of that inter|val of inactivity, which always succeeds any con|siderable exertion of Indian ferocity. Lieutenant King, who, as has been observed before, com|manded the working-party on the other side the bay, and who had cultivated a friendship with the priests, whose dwellings were contiguous to the Morai, was all this while ignorant of what was going forward; but could not help being under inexpressible anxiety at seeing the extraordinary agitation by land, and hearing the firing from the ships at sea, and the boats near the shore; but at the same time had assured the priests, who were equally alarmed, that whatever might be the mat|ter, they should be safe; was not a little startled, when just at that critical moment, two great shot from the Discovery cut a tree in the middle, under which some of them were sitting, and split a piece from a rock in a direct line to their dwellings: for Capt. Clerke being under no less concern for Lieut. King and those under his command, and having no clue, but appearances to go by, had caused

the fire of the great guns to be directed to that quarter, as soon as the natives were dispersed from the other. Our whole force was therefore col|lected, and, having landed under cover of our guns, we marched rapidly up the hill, with bayo|nets fixed, and took possession of the Morai, which stood on elevated ground, and gave us an advan|tage over the savages, who could not approach us from the shore, neither could they attack us from the towns, without being exposed to our fire from the ships. They made several unsuc|cessful attempts to dislodge us, but were repulsed with loss. After sustaining an unequal conflict for three hours, in which several of them were killed, without being able to make any impression on our small body, and without our losing a man, though several were much hurt by the stones from their slings, they at length dispersed, and left us masters of our tents and of all our other property.

Our next care was to recover the bodies of our dead. A strong party under Lieut. King, were sent out in the pinnaces and boats, with a white flag, in token of peace, to endeavour to procure them. They were met by Koah, a Chief, (with whom Mr. King was well acquainted) and of note among the savages, at the head of a vast multitude, without at first answering our signal; but Mr. King, commanding the armed boats to stop, and going himself in a small boat alone, with a white flag in his hand, had the satisfac|tion to be instantly understood; the men threw off their war-mats; the women returned to the beach, and Koah shewed equal confidence, by swimming off with a flag in his hand, and on en|tering the boat where Mr. King sat, with as much unconcern as if nothing had happened: being told

that they were come to demand the body of Capt. Cook, or to declare war, if it was not instantly restored, he assured the Lieutenant, that he would go himself and procure it, begged a piece of iron of him, and joyfully swam on shore, calling out to his countrymen, that now we were all friends again; but notwithstanding this Chief's dissembled friendship, our men in the boats, who had entered into parley with the natives, were informed, that the warriors were then on the back of the hill, cutting up and dividing the bodies of the slain. While we remained in our boats, several other Chiefs came to the water-side; and one in parti|cular, with Capt. Cook's hanger, which he drew in a vaunting manner, and brandished it over his head; others shewed themselves with the spoils taken from the dead; one having a jacket, ano|ther a shirt, a third a pair of trowsers, and so on; insulting us, as it were, with the trophies of their victory.

At this time it was thought prudent to stifle our resentment, and to reserve our vengeance till a more favourable opportunity. We were now in want of water; our sails and rigging in a shattered condition; our cordage bad, and our repairs not near finished; all therefore we had to do, was to re|main upon the defensive till we were better pro|vided.

At the close of the evening, as soon as it was dark, a canoe was heard paddling towards the Re|solution, in which were two men. As it approached, both sentinels fired, but without hurting either of the men, though the balls went through the bot|tom of the canoe. Notwithstanding this, the canoe came close under the ship's stern; and one of the men calling out Tinne, Tinne, (the name Mr. King was known by) whom the Priests had always

supposed to be the Orono's son, and, therefore, the Earee of the ship, this excited every one's curio|sity, and orders were given to admit them on board; they were priests, and produced a piece of flesh, carefully wrapped up in a cloth, which they solemnly assured us was part of the thigh of our late Commander; that he saw it cut from the bone, but believed that all the flesh of the body was burnt; that the head and all the bones, ex|cept what belonged to the trunk, were in the pos|session of Terreoboo, and the other Chiefs; that what we saw, had been brought to Kaoa, the High Priest, to be made use of in some religious ceremony; and that he had sent it as a proof of the sincerity of his innocence and his friendship. Being asked, if any part of the flesh had been eaten, they expressed the utmost horror at the idea. They afterwards asked, with some apparent apprehension, when the Orono would come again, and what he would do to them on his return? The same question had been asked by others, which shews, the opinion they entertain of the spirit's power after it is separated from the body. They then desired to be set at liberty, which was granted. One of the men was the Priest who had attended Capt. Cook, and who was ready on all occasions, to fall down and worship him. He la|mented his loss with abundance of tears, and earnestly besought us to keep their coming a se|cret, for if it should be known, it would prove fatal to their whole fraternity. They farther in|formed us, that 17 of their countrymen were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were Chiefs; and that Kaneena and his brother, our particular friends, were among the number; eight, they said, were killed at the observatory, of whom three were of the first rank. As this was the fact,

the story that was given out to conceal it, may be worth relating.

On the 19th, says our journalist, the father and mother of two girls, who had concealed themselves on board the ship, came in the dead of the night, in their canoe, loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which they had been gathering in the day for their own subsistence, as a supply for their children, lest, from what had happened, they should have been suffered to die for want; ac|quainting us at the same time with a treacherous design of their countrymen to cut our cables, and drift the ships ashore. They were taken on board, and detained prisoners till morning, when not an Indian was to be seen near the harbour, but such as were old and feeble, and knew not how to make their escape. The informers were tenderly treated, had presents made them, and were after|wards dismissed, at their own desire, upon a neigh|bouring island, with every token of kindness.—The truth is, the Priests had desired the guard-boat to attend them, lest they should have been fired at, and interrupted by the guard-boats of the other ship, by which they might have been discovered, and perhaps put to death.

Among other incidents of the present day, Feb. 16, there was one which could not be under|stood. Two boys were seen swimming towards the ships, singing, as they approached the ships, a mournful and plaintive song. They had each a long spear in his hand, which, on boarding the Discovery, they delivered to the Officer on the deck, and then departed. Who sent them, or for what purpose, we never could learn.

On the 17th, the different promotions took place, and according to their succession, the Offi|cers changed ships; Capt. Clerke went on board

the Resolution, and Mr. Gore, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, took the command of the Dis|covery.

On the 18th both ships were again warped near the shore, and a spring put upon their cables, in order to cover the boats which were sent to com|pleat our complement of water. On this motion crowds of inhabitants were seen to assemble, with a large black flag displayed, which we interpreted as a signal for war; but we afterwards found that it was part of their ceremony in burying their dead. Under this mistake a few guns were fired from the ships to disperse them, by which the King's nephew, Maiha Maiha, was wounded, and a poor woman lost her arm. This made a strong impression on the whole body of Indians, and we were left in quiet both this and the next day, to pursue our repairs and compleat our hold.

On the 19th they began again to be trouble|some. In the morning, while the boats were loading, at the well, the stones came about the watermen like hail, some of them of more than a pound weight; one in particular was seen com|ing; but who threw it, no one could tell. This being attended to, a native was observed to creep out of a cavern, who, as soon as he had discharged his stone, retired back to his place of shelter. Him we marked, and returned to our ships; and it being now apparent that nothing was to be gained by fair means, orders were given to strike terror among them, by pursuing them with fire and sword. About two in the afternoon, all who were able to bear arms, as well sailors and arti|ficers as marines, were mustered, and preparations made to sustain them, while with lighted torches they rowed on shore, and set fire to the S. E. town, pursuing the frighted inhabitants while their

houses were in flames, with unrelenting fury. Many were put to death, and all driven to seek shelter where they could, scarce a house having escaped the general conflagration. In this vin|dictive enterprize, the cavern or hole of the crafty Indian, whose insolence had been one principal cause of the desolation that followed, was not for|gotten. His cavern had been marked, as has al|ready been observed, and on seeing our sailors ap|proach it, such was his inveteracy, that he heaved a huge stone at the assailants, one of whom he dangerously wounded, but was instantly dispatched by the discharge of three muskets, and a bayonet run through his body. Our vengeance being now fully executed, we returned to the ships, loaded with the spoils of the towns, consisting of bows and arrows, clubs, and arms of all kinds, which they use in battle; and having the heads of two of their fighting men, of which the courageous native was one, stuck at the bows of the pinnaces, as a terror to the enemy from ever daring again to molest us.

About four in the afternoon of the 20th, ten girls came down to the well, where the waterers were busy, with quantities of fruit, as much as they could carry, for which they would take no|thing in return, only praying to be taken on board. This was denied them, as peremptory or|ders had been given by Capt. Clerke, forbidding the admission of any more of their women.

This day, in the morning, a Chief was seen coming down the hill, followed by a number of boys, with a white flag displayed, and carrying boughs and green branches in their hands. They came singing to the water side; but that did not prevent their receiving the fire of a party that was placed as a guard. On seeing his ensign answered

by a white flag at each mizen-top-mast-head, he, accompanied with three other Chiefs, came on board, having some cocoa-nuts, plantains, and bread-fruit, as presents to the Commander, for which they would accept of nothing in return. This Chief, whose name was Eappo, came to make submission; and, as a token of his since|rity, promised to collect the bones of our deceased warrior, as he called him, and to bring them, and lay them at our feet. This was the token of the most perfect submission that a native warrior could make to his conqueror; and this was accepted on the part of our Commander. In this manner, and on these conditions, peace was to be restored.

At nine in the morning of the next day, the same old Chief returned, attended by a more nu|merous suit than before, having several large hogs added to his peace-offerings; and with him, likewise, he brought the bones of Capt. Cook, his back-bone, and the bones of his feet only ex|cepted, which he promised to produce the next visit he made. On examination, the head ap|peared to have been scalped; the face was en|tirely gone; the hands had the flesh on, but scored and salted; and, as he assured the Captain, most of the flesh besides was burnt. Our Com|mander made signs to return the cutter, but was told it was broke up and burnt for the iron. The arms belonging to the marines, who were killed, were next demanded; but these, it was said, were carried up the country by common people, and were irrecoverable. Some presents were made to this friendly Chief, who departed well satisfied. We were now preparing to depart, when provisions of all sorts came pouring in upon us faster than we could consume them. The Chief kept his promise, and

On the 23d, Eappo and the King's son, came on board, and brought the bones of the Captain that were missing: these were all placed in due form, in a case made for the purpose, and under a triple discharge from the ships, buried in the bay. The terror of the natives on this occasion was increased, by a four pound ball being loaded by mistake, which fortunately did no other mis|chief than that of exciting the jealousy of the na|tives, that our professions of peace were not sin|cere; which possibly might be the case with him who loaded the gun, as the sailors in general could hardly be restrained from violence, whenever a native came within their power. Nothing more remained now to be done.

This day we had the satisfaction of getting the foremast of the Resolution shipt, which was a work of great labour, and some difficulty, as the ropes were now become rotten, and unable to sustain the purchase; however, that being at length ac|complished, and the repairs compleated, so far at least as our circumstances would allow, we bent our sails in the morning; and were visited by many of our former friends, among whom was the King's youngest son, a boy of about fourteen years of age, of whom Capt. Cook was remarkably fond; and the boy, in return, was no less attached to the Captain. He came to express his sorrow for the accident that had happened, which he did by a plentiful flow of tears. He gave us to un|derstand, that his two brothers were killed, and that his father was retired to an inaccessible place. Capt. Clerke made him some presents that were pleasing to him, and he departed very much com|forted.

About 7 in the evening, a breeze springing up in our favour, we unmoored, and soon left

Karakakooa Bay, for that was the name of the bay in which we had been moored, shaping our course to the N. W. Nothing remarkable till

The 28th, when we opened upon a fine bay, in one of the Leeward Islands, called by the inhabi|tants O-aa-ah, where the ships came to an anchor, and where both Captains landed: they found a fine running river, but brackish towards the sea; they therefore made a very short stay. Several of the inhabitants came on board, who were so im|moderately fond of iron, that they endeavoured to wrench the very ring-bolts from the hatches. Here we put ashore the family that accompanied us from O-why-e, and here we purchased a few small swine; some bread-fruit and plantains, and a quantity of a root called Ta-ee, not unlike fern-root, but of an enormous size, some weighing from 60 to 70 pounds. It is a powerful anti-scorbutic, of the saccharine kind. Pounded, we made an excellent liquor from it, very pleasant, and exceedingly wholesome. We had quantities of it when we reached Kamshatska, and as good as when first purchased. Having found nothing else to engage our attention in this island, we set sail in the evening; and

Next day, March 1, about noon, we moored in our old birth, which, notwithstanding, had a most beautiful appearance from the sea, being well cultivated, and full of villages. We made sail in the evening for Atooi, where we had an|chored the preceding summer. We learned that the name of the island we had just left, was Woa|hoo, lat. 21.50. N. long. 202.15. E. Here we were received with seeming coolness. Hogs, and the produce of the island, were brought us indeed in abundance; but when our casks were landed, in order to exchange our water (that of O-why-he

being both bitter and brackish, and the water here excellent) the coopers were no sooner set to work, than one native snatched up an adze, another a bucket, a third a bag of nails, and so on; and this among a crowd of people of more than four or five hundred in number. To put a stop to these depredations, orders were given to fire over their heads; but this not having the de|sired effect, a gun from the ships threw them all into confusion. Two were seen to drop; and by the shrieks and cries of the women, more were sup|posed to have been killed or wounded. For a while the multitude retreated; but being rallied by some of their Chiefs, who doubtless had heard that we were not invulnerable, they returned in greater numbers than before, when it was thought prudent to lay aside watering, and to provide for our own safety. All hands were now ordered to their posts, and an engagement commenced in earnest, when the Indians instantly gave way, af|ter a few being killed and wounded by our fire; and they never again offered the least violence during our stay. A perfect agreement took place, and presents were mutually exchanged on both sides.

The reason assigned for our cold reception at first, was, because we had introduced among their women a bad disorder, when at that harbour be|fore, of which many of their people had died.—But now, peace being established, all the bad wa|ter was started from both ships, and a plentiful stock of good water taken on board, to serve us during our long run to Kamshatska, for which we were preparing. Here one of the Chiefs, named Noo-oh-a, expressed a desire to accompany us in our voyage, when, being told that we were never more to return to that island, he lamented the op|portunity

he had lost when we were here before; and pointing to the sun, seemed to suppose that we should visit that luminary in our course, and that the thunder and lightning of our guns, and that which came from above, were both derived from the same source.

Before our departure, an Indian brought on board our ship, a piece of iron, to be fashioned into a podooa, which, upon examination, ap|peared to be the bolt of some large piece of ship timbers, larger than any that our ships could pro|duce. This excited the curiosity of the officers on board; but no farther discovery could be made, but that it had been taken from a part of a large ship that had been drifted on the coast since our leaving the island in 1778. It was of a paler colour than our iron; but of what nation, we were unable to discover.

From this harbour we sailed on the 9th, and visited the opposite side of the island, where we had likewise passed a part of the former winter. Here we were received with much kindness and hospitality; and here we purchased yams and po|tatoes for our summer's consumption, which the companies of both ships were glad to accept in exchange for their allowance of bread, that part of their food being both scanty and bad.

Besides the natural productions of the country, we purchased in these islands many tons of salt, much of their cordage and cloth, and a great va|riety of artificial curiosities, such as their weapons of war, their instruments for fishing; their cloaks and coverlets; their caps, masks, nets, instru|ments of music; their needles, thread, working tools, bracelets, ear-jewels, and, in short, almost every thing that was new to us, or which was pe|culiar to them; among which were some house|hold

utensils, and prints for impressing their cloth. The island we are now preparing to leave is named Oneeheow, and lies in lat. 21.49. N. and in long. E. from London, 193 nearly.

On the 15th, we made sail; and soon after were informed that Capt. Clerke was taken ill. We at first stood to the Westward, veering a little to the South, in search of a small island, named Modoo Pappapa, which, we were told, abounded in turtle. We continued this course till

The 30th, when we were in lat. 20.19. N. long. 180.40. per watch. We now altered our course, and steered N. W.

April 1, we continued steering N. W. ½ W. lat. 21.46. N. long. 180.2.

On the 3d, we crossed the Northern Tropic, long. 177.39. E. steering N. W. by N. in a di|rect course for Kamshatska. On the 3d day, after leaving the island of Oneeheow, it began to blow a hard gale, which continued, with very little in|termission, to the present day, when our ship be|came very leaky, and we were informed that the Resolution was much worse than the Discovery.

On the 9th, for the first time, since our leaving Oneeheow, or Nehu, as the sailors called it, we had an observation, and found ourselves in lat. 32.16. long. 160.40. E.

On the 10th, we observed a tropic bird hover|ing about the ship, and by her motions we ex|pected her to light, being far to the Northward of her proper climate; however she left us, and made for the Resolution. In the evening it began to blow, with heavy rain, and continued an un|remitting gale till

The 13th, when we were in lat. 39.50. very cold and foggy. As we now began to approach the higher Northern latitudes, the flannel jackets

that had been stored up while we were among the tropical islands, were again brought into use, and were of infinite service to the poor men. We now altered our course to the Eastward, having great signs of land on our larboard beam.

On the 15th, being in lat. 41.59. the signs of land increased. The weather being fine and clear, we seized this opportunity to search for the leak, and, knowing it to be forwards, we moved the sails from the fore sail-room, and found them wringing wet; but the leak was out of our reach; however, when the weather was fine, it gave us very little trouble.

On the 16th, the Resolution's boat came on board, and Capt. Gore and our first Lieutenant went to visit Capt. Clerke, who still continued very ill. On their return, they brought a dismal account of the condition of the Resolution; she became leaky on the 7th, when it blew a tempest. On the carpenters going down to the cockpit for lights, they were alarmed by finding themselves over their shoes in water, and, upon further exa|mination, the casks in the fish-room and spirit-room were driving one against another, by which two casks of French brandy were staved. They then searched forwards, where they found the coal-hole six feet deep in water, and the ship's whole complement of paint destroyed; several casks of shells and curiosities staved, the light-room deck blown up, and the bulk-head between the gunner's store-room and the coal-hole, burst open. In this alarming situation, they continued during the whole time that this stormy weather lasted, pumping night and day; and every officer in the ship (the Captain, who was ill, only ex|cepted) took his turn with the common men, who were sickening apace with fatigue; nor were

they then relieved from hard duty, when our gen|tlemen left the ship; which was the reason we could make no stay to examine the extent of De Gama's or Company's Land, which, however, we discovered, by our run, not to extend farther to the Eastward than it is marked in our ordinary maps. The misfortune of the Resolution's people did not end with the damages above recited; much of their bread was spoiled, and they were forced to take from us a ton of yams to supply its place.

On the 18th, we lost sight of the Resolution; but by every appearance were at no great distance from land. Large pieces of timber drifted by us, and land birds innumerable were seen to the Westward. We were now in lat. 46.10. and our long. 160.25. running at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour.

On the 19th, we came in sight of the Resolu|tion: and though it blew hard, they threw out the signal for us to make sail, from whence we con|cluded that the leak still distressed them. At noon we were in lat. 48.38. and long. 159.10.

On the 20th, we had a deep snow, attended with frost, by which our men were exposed to incredible hardships. It fell so heavy upon the decks and rigging, that it was next to impossible to keep them clear, or, not being clear, to make the ropes traverse. Fortunately it ceased freezing in the night.

On the 21st, we were in lat. 49.48. when we began to get every thing in readiness for coming to anchor.

On the 22d, we were in the latitude of Lon|don; the water of a milky colour, but no sound|ings at eighty-five fathom. In the evening, the Resolution made the signal to tack ship, and we

never afterwards saw her till our arrival at our des|tined harbour.

On the 23d, we came in sight of land, very barren, very rugged, and covered with snow; from whence we were distant not above a league, with our starboard tacks on board, the water near the shore black with wild fowl, and a sheet of ice skirting the land, covered with sea-lions, seals, and other amphibious animals. At half past ten, P. M. we were put about, finding by our log|book and watch, that we were fifty miles to lee|ward of our port.

On the 25th, we were out of sight of land, with a heavy gale, a fall of snow, piercing cold, and twenty of our hands frost-nipped.

The 26th, it blew hard from the N. E. We kept working to windward, which doubled our labour; and our concern for our Commodore in|creased so much the more, as we judged by our own sufferings what must be the fate of the Re|solution, that was much less able to struggle with the storm than the Discovery. The storm conti|nuing with sleet and snow, three men could scarce do the work of one.

Amidst these complicated distresses, our leak increased to an alarming degree.

On the 28th, we made 17 inches in three hours. The wind dying away, we tried the current, and found we drifted half a mile an hour to the South|ward. A man was sent up to the mast-head, to look round for the Resolution, but without suc|ceeding. We now gave her over for lost.

On the 29th, we stood in for the land, and at two in the afternoon, we came in sight of the en|trance of the bay of Kamshatska, then distant be|tween seven and eight miles to the Southward. We made sail, and stood right in; but finding it froze

over, we judged that the Resolution could not possibly be there, and therefore concluded that she must have gone to the bottom.

Early next morning, we once more attempted the entrance of the bay, and finding the ice drifted, we conceived hopes that we might be able to force a passage through the loose ice, which, now the weather was fine, did not appear so for|midable as before. About noon, a pleasant breeze sprung up, and we directed our course to a flag we saw displayed just within the bay, and happily succeeded, drooping our anchor in twenty fa|thom water, within less than three leagues of our intended harbour. In about half an hour, while our boats were still looking out for a passage, we observed at a distance two boats making towards us, one of which we knew to belong to the Reso|lution; the other belonged to the Russians. No joy could exceed that which the certainty of the safety of the Resolution spread through the whole ship's company of the Discovery. She had been in port ever since the 27th, and had given us over for lost, never expecting to see us more. She had met with some damage in her sails and rigging; but by her fortunately hitting the harbour, she had escaped much of the distress that we suffered from the severity of the weather.

Early on the first of May, we weighed, having the Resolution's boat to direct us. Soon after day-light, we were within the light-house near the entrance of the harbour, but were opposed by a strong tide from the shore, which drifting huge pieces of floating ice against us, made our fur|ther progress both dangerous and fatiguing but, having the wind fair, about five in the even|ing we came to in sight of the town, and soon af|ter dropt anchor near the Resolution.

On the 2d, the Resolution unmoored, and both ships came to, and moored within a mile of the town, and within a cable's length of the ice, which entirely shut up the head of the bay.—Here we found only one small sloop, about fifty tons, which, as soon as the ice was clear, was bound on a trading voyage to the Northward.—We had no sooner dropt anchor than our boat was ordered out, and our Captain, with several other gentlemen, went to visit Capt. Clerke, and to take his orders for our future proceedings. We found him still growing weaker and weaker; we there|fore shortened our stay.

On the 3d, some of the principal officers and gentlemen went on shore, and were received by a subaltern, who now had the command of the fort, situated close by a little miserable town, called St. Peter and St. Paul, which, by its appearance, could not be supposed to furnish provisions for the ships crew a single week. We soon learnt that the Governor lived at a town called Bolcheritsk, distant about 135 miles; and that an express had been sent to him on the 29th, about noon, in a sledge drawn by dogs, to notify our arrival. The subaltern, in the mean time, shewed us every ci|vility. We found on our landing a sledge drawn by dogs, in readiness to receive our Commander, and to conduct him to the residence of the officer already mentioned, where he found some gentle|men belonging to the Resolution. It was not, however, a little strange, that though we were ex|pected, and that the Empress of Russia had given orders to her Governor to furnish us with every accommodation in his power, that not a person was to be found that understood any other language than that of the natives of the place, and of Rus|sia; neither of which languages was intelligible to

any of us; so that, having no interpreter, every thing was to be conducted by signs.

They were hospitably received, and entertained with stewed fish, venison-soups, and other dishes, dressed after the manner of the country; and the officer who now had the command, behaved with an uncommon degree of civility, or, more pro|perly, servility, by paying every attention that his circumstances would admit, to make the Com|modore's situation tolerable. He had made him understand, that at the distance of about sixteen wrests, at a town called Paratounka, there lived a priest, who might possibly be able to converse with him; and with that view, he, the very next day, sent an express to invite him to the fort, at the same time intimating that the Governor was a German, who could talk all languages, which accounts for the omission before complained of: and indeed, as it afterwards appeared, we were expected here the preceding summer, and that our arrival was now unlooked for. On board, the carpenters were busy in stripping the ships bows, where they found the leak of the Resolution to have been chiefly seated. The larboard bow had been stript of its sheathing, and the oakum had been washed out. The sailors were employed in getting the sick on shore, with every part of the ships stores that stood in need of revisal; and though the weather continued piercing cold, no time was lost in forwarding the repairs.

On the 4th, one of our boats, in putting the astronomer's assistant on shore at the influx of the tide, was suddenly encircled by the floating ice, in such a manner as not to be able to move one way or the other; another boat, sent to her relief, was soon enclosed in the same manner, and till

the return of the tide, both were forced to remain in that deplorable situation, not a person on board daring to trust himself among the floating ice, to go to their assistance. About twelve at night they were released, and the icey prisoners returned on board, almost perished with cold.

A still worse accident happened to Lieut. King, the ingenious writer of the third volume of Cook's voyage, on his first attempt to land; for having no clue to direct him to the village before him, in passing the trackless snow and ice, the ice broke under him, and for a moment he disappeared. Providentially he rose again clear; and the man who attended him having a boat-hook in his hand, instantly threw it to him; he catched it, and laying it across two pieces of ice, recovered his footing.

On the 5th, six gentlemen arrived from Bol|cheritsk, among whom was a merchant who came to trade for skins; some of which he purchased from us, as we thought, at great prices; but as we afterwards found, for little more than half their value. These are all monopolized by the Russian Company, already mentioned in our account of the last summer's voyage, and not a skin is to be had from the Kamshatskadales. This gentleman was accompanied by the Governor's Secretary, who could speak both German and Dutch, and who brought a letter from the Governor, written in German, complimenting the Commodore on his arrival, tendering his best services, and ex|cusing his absence; adding, at the same time, that when he was made acquainted with the ne|cessaries of which we stood in need, he would give immediate orders for their supply, as far as was in his power; and that he would embrace the first opportunity of waiting upon the Commodore. It

happened that Mr. Webber, our draughtsman, was master of the German; and on reading the letter, it was judged more respectful, as well as more suitable to the occasion, for Capt. Gore, our Commander, and Lieut. King, of the Resolution, to be messengers, as they could give a more par|ticular account of our many wants than could pos|sibly be transmitted in a letter.

On the 6th the Ruffian gentlemen were enter|tained on board the ships, Mr. Webber acting as interpreter to the merchant, and the governor's secretary understanding a little French, was well enough understood to make the conversation and the bottle pass jovially round. About ten at night the company parted; and,

In the morning of the 7th, Capt. Gore, at|tended by Lieut. King of the Resolution and Mr. Webber, and accompanied by the merchant and Ruffian secretary, set out for Bolcheritsk (Bol|cheraika says our Journalist, mistaking the name of the river for the name of the town) where, af|ter a most fatiguing journey, they arrived on the 13th, and were received by Major Behm the Go|vernor, with a politeness that did honour to the post he filled.

After the usual salutations, they entered into general conversation, when our gentlemen soon discovered that the Major was not only a man of breeding, but of general knowledge; that he had been made acquainted by his court with our intention of touching at Kamshatska; that the character of our first Commander, Capt. Cook was known to him by the historical relations of his former expeditions; and that the whole route, that he was supposed to pursue in the present ex|pedition, he had deduced from his own observa|tions, aided by the charts and maps of which he

was himself in possession. Capt. Gore, when he came to speak of our North-west course, put the letter into his hands, which our Commodore re|ceived from the Ruffian Ismyloff at Samganuida, (of which notice has already been taken;) and which chiefly related to the business of the factory, having only slightly touched upon the civilities he had received from us, and had represented us as in|terlopers, or merchant-boats, engaged in a new line of commerce, which he apprehended might be in|jurious to that in which the factory was engaged. The Governor, however, was of too liberal a turn of mind to be at all affected by such an ill-found|ed opinion; but had he been inclined to give ear to this uncandid insinuation, or to the natu|ral jealousy and distrust of the Kamtschatska|dales, (for they had not yet got rid of the panic with which they were seized at our first approach,) an incident had just happened, that would have infallibly established their credit. The reader will recollect, that in passing Beering's Straits, the ships touched at a town on the Asiatic coast, inhabited by the Tschutskoi nation, a race of stout hardy men, totally different from the Americans on the opposite side of the Straits. This nation had hitherto maintained their independence, and had resisted all the attempts of the Ruffians to reduce them The last expedition against them in 1750, terminated in the defeat of the Ruffians, who from that time had removed their frontier fortress from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river that empties itself into the sea of Okotsk. From this fort, the Governor received dispatches the day of the arrival of our officers at Bolcheritsk, containing intelligence, that a tribe of the Tschut|skoi had arrived at that place with propositions of

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friendship, and voluntary offer of tribute; that on enquiring into this unexpected alteration in their sentiments, they had informed his people, that towards the letter end of the last summer they had been visited by two very large Ruffian boats, that they had been treated by the people who were in them with the greatest kindness, and had en|tered into a league of friendship and amity with them; and that relying on this friendly disposi|tion, they are now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to settle a treaty on such terms as might be acceptable to both nations. This extraordi|nary history had occasioned much speculation, both at Ingeginsk and Bolcheritsk; and had not our gentlemen furnished them with a key to it, must have remained perfectly unintelligible: they felt, however, no small satisfaction at being able to clear up the mystery: with which too the Go|vernor was no less pleased than instructed.

By this time dinner was ready, and the gentle|men were invited to partake of what had been provided; they would have excused themselves on account of dress, but the Governor would admit no apology.

After dinner they took occasion to deliver to the Governor their instructions, with a list of those articles of which the ships stood most in need; representing at the same time the shattered con|dition of the ships, and how much they were in want of sails and cordage, as well as provi|sions, having met with no supply of beef or bread from the time they left England in 1776, to the present day; nor of tobacco, a chief article with our sailors, though for three months they had been under the necessity of subsisting without. The Governor heard him with atten|tion, and being sensible that the gentlemen must be

fatigued, and desirous of rest, begged he might be permitted to conduct them to the house pre|pared for their residence during their stay, where they found every thing provided for them in the nicest order; and a house-keeper and cook; a serjeant, two sentinels, and an interpreter allowed for their domestics. These civilities were accom|panied with the most lively expressions of esteem, at parting; and in the morning, when the gentle|men rose, they found their wishes anticipated by an order lying on their table, ready to be forward|ed to the subaltern at the fort, to supply the ships with the articles they most wanted, without re|gard to their being wanted by the garrison.

The gentlemen were not more gratified than astonished, at finding the spirit of a prince in a Governor sent to the remotest corner of the earth to preside over a semi-barbarous people, living in a district the most deplorable and uncultivated; but they were still more surprised, when, upon enquiring as to the price of the several articles they stood in need of, they were told, that nothing more was required of them, than an attestation of those things being received which should be in his power to furnish, in justification of his own conduct, in not having been wanting in duty to his Sovereign, whose commands he had received, to exert his utmost endeavours to contribute every assistance to promote a design so liberally set on foot by her favourite ally the King of Great-Britain.

And recollecting that tobacco was an article highly prized by the mariners, and not to be pur|chased, at any price in his district, our gentlemen, before their departure from Bolcheritsk, found a quantity, not less than 400 weight, deposited in their house,

"labelled as a present to the seamen

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on board the ships;"

and another bag containing 20 pounds of tea, and 20 loaves of sugar, as the present from the Governor's lady to the officers; along with these she had likewise sent a present of fresh butter, honey, figs, rice, &c. for Capt. Clerke, with her good wishes for the recovery of his health.

We should be wanting therefore in justice to this worthy Governor, were we to pass over his behaviour to us unnoticed; which was such as did honour to his feelings as a man, and to her Imperial Majesty as an officer.

Our gentlemen, after being entertained in a most magnificent manner for several days, was ac|companied in their return by the Governor him|self; who, after enforcing his orders for our im|mediate supply from the country, came to see that his orders had been obeyed at the fort. He had already ordered 13,000 weight of meal to be collected from different districts at a great dis|tance, and conveyed to us at whatever expence, accompanied with 20 head of horned cattle. These our sailors rejoiced to see, and, though ske|letons compared with those of England, were re|ceived by us with an eagerness not easily to be exceeded; for not having had the relish of fresh beef for more than three years, the very scrapings of the bones would have been to our sailors, at this time, a treat infinitely more grateful, than at home they would have thought the most luxu|rious feast.

On the 16th, while the gentlemen were still at Bolcheritsk, a small bullock, procured by the ser|jeant of the fort, was killed, and divided between the crews of both ships. The same evening, John M'Intosh, the carpenter, mate of the Re|solution died, and was decently buried, and the aged priest at Parantounka attending.

It was the 23d before the Governor and officers arrived at Paratounka, in the vicinage of which the priest resided, of whom we have already spo|ken. With him the Governor spent the after|noon, but when night came he slept at the fort, if fort a mere log-house could be called, without either gun or platform to place a gun.

On the 25th the pinnace from the Resolution was manned, and properly equipped to bring him on board. He was saluted with 13 guns from the Resolution, and 11 from the Discovery; and when he entered the ship he was received with music, and with all the honours that circum|stances would admit; and he was so well pleased with his reception, that he staid two days and two nights on board: during which time, Capt. Clerke being ill, committed the care of entertaining him to the officers with whom he was acquainted, who did not fail to make it agreeable. Some very noble presents were made him at his departure, consisting of curiosities collected from every part of the world, with a gold watch, two fowling-pieces, a brace of silver-mounted pistols, and other valuable articles of English manufacture; to all which were added, near 100 gallons of brandy from the ships stores, as a present from the sailors out of their allowance, they having, at their own request, desired that so much should be spared out of their allowance for grog, in lieu of the tobacco that his Excellency had generously ordered to be divided amongst them gratis; to|bacco at that time had been in such estimation, that he who had been provident enough to make a re|serve, sold it nearly at the price of silver.

Orders were now given to get every thing on board, and prepare for sailing as fast as possible: both ships had been stripped of their sheathing

to the water's edge, but the leak of the Disco|very was found much lower, being a hole worn in her bow, which, had not the hull been cleared, could never have been come at.

Having now got the meal on board, the crews were served with an allowance of half rye and half flour; which, however, not being accustomed to, they did not very well relish, though it was found to be very wholesome. The Governor had made Capt. Clerke a present of a cow, for which it was necessary to provide provender; and large quantities of ducks, geese and poultry were taken on board, to supply the want of other live stock; for here they had no sheep, nor any other do|mestic animal, except dogs, which serve the na|tives both for horses and hunting: nor was there a cow in the country, that we saw, except what the Governor sent to Capt. Clerke, and one in possession of the priest. What was remarkable, though the sea seemed almost covered with wild ducks, and sea-fowl of various sorts, they were all so shy, that very few were killed.

We had now been here a month, when,

On the 4th of June, being his Majesty's birth|day, the same was celebrated with great magnifi|cence on board and on shore. The ships were dressed with streamers, and with the colours of all nations, and a flag was displayed at the tents. The Russian gentlemen were sumptuously enter|tained, on board, and the common men were served with double allowance of meat and liquor; and being permitted to divert themselves on shore, many of them made parties, and traversed the woods in pursuit of game, with which they were told the country abounded. But, as they were ignorant of their haunts, they met with no success.

Before our departure, packets were entrusted to the care of the Governor, to be forwarded to England by the way of Petersburgh, both for go|vernment and to private friends; these we have since been informed were carefully transmitted. And now, having all things in readiness, our full complement of wood and water on board, and of every necessary the country afforded, and waiting only for a wind,

Early on the 12th of June we weighed, and sailed, directing our course to the northward; but were detained in the bay till

The 15th, when we were alarmed with a noise louder than the loudest thunder, and presently were almost blinded with the fall of ashes, which in less than an hour, covered the decks all over from stern to stern, an inch thick; among which were mixed pumice-stones as large as walnuts, and many smaller stones, which seemed to have received no alteration by fire. We were all dri|ven down between decks, but about ten in the morning were released by the shower ceasing. On looking round, we found they issued from a vol|cano at the distance, as we supposed, of about twenty miles, then bearing from us W. S. W. During this eruption, we were not only obliged to retire ourselves, but to fasten down the hatches fore and aft; so that what with the closeness of our confinement, and the sulphureous fumes from the ashes, we were almost suffocated. We were therefore no sooner released, than we weighed an|chor and steered to the eastward.

On the 17th and 18th we continued our course E. and E. by N.

On the 19th steered E. by N. Lat. 54.56.

On the 20th came in sight of land, high, and covered with snow, called by Beering, Kronot|skoi-noss,

but found that Cape a degree more to the southward than he had laid it down. Lat. 55.52.

On the 21st we continued to steer E. N. E. came in sight of Kamtschatska-noss, saw a dead whale, two seals, and a number of sea-lions.

On the 22d we stood to the N. E. and, seeing a change in the colour of the water, we sounded, but found no ground at 100 fathom. We con|tinued the same course till the 25th, when we were in lat. 59.9. and long. 168.30. E.

On the 26th we changed our course E. N. E. and finding the sea covered with gulls and shags, we sounded, but found no ground at 120 fathom.

On the 27th we stood E. one-half N. and found ourselves by observation in lat. 59.57. long 17. E. We changed our course and stood N. N. W.

On the 28th, early in the morning, we came in sight of land, very high and covered with snow, the extreme point of which bore N. E. distance about 6 leagues. We continued our course along shore, with regular soundings at about 54 fathom, free from reefs, and a very bold shore. We steered this course till

The 30th, at noon, when we were in lat. 62.1. Thadeus's Noss came in sight, beyond which the coast seemed to stretch directly North. Here it is observable, that on the Asiatic coast, the sea near the shore is everywhere of a convenient depth for sailing; while on the opposite shore it con|tinues so shallow for several degrees together, as not to be navigated but with the utmost caution.

On the 1st of July, the weather began to grow hazy, with thick fogs. We shaped our course for the point in our chart, called Tschutkoski-Noss, which with that of Thadeus, form the N. E. and S. W. points of the gulph of Anadyr.

The 3d in the morning, when the fogs left us and it began to rain. At ten in the morning, saw a very high point of land, bearing from us N. N. E. distance about 7 leagues. We hauled upon a wind, and stood E. N. E. till two in the afternoon, when we passed a small island, called by the Russians St. Nicholas; in some parts very high and covered with snow. Lat. 63.45. long. 187.

On the 4th at one in the morning, we bore away N. ½ E. and about noon, the next day, saw land from W. to N. E. appearing like two islands. These were the islands of St. Diomede, in the mid|way between the two Continents. At four o'clock we hauled up to W. N. W. being near the East Cape of the Asiatic Continent, and sounding from 26 to 29 fathom. At ten at night, the weather being clear, we had an opportunity of seeing the remarkable peeked hill near Cape Prince of Wales, on the American side, and the East Cape of Asia, with the two connecting islands of St. Diomede between them.

On the 6th we continued coasting from N. ½ W. to N. ½ E. with the land to the westward high and snowy. Lat. 67.10. long. 191. E.

On the 7th, saw ice in a large body to the east|ward, distance about 2 or 3 leagues, and about noon passed several large masses of ice. We tacked and stood N. W. by W. with a stiff gale and heavy snow.

On the 8th fell in with the ice again in a solid body; at the same time bore away S. S. W.

On the 9th, at three in the morning, we hauled up along side the solid ice, freezing cold all day. Lat. 69.12.

On the 10th continued our course all the morn|ing, and at nine passed a large field of loose ice,

distance about three miles, and at noon went through it.

On the 11th we found ourselves surrounded with ice. We kept working to the S. E. passing many large fields of ice, covered with sea-cows. We kept luffing up and bearing away, till with some difficulty we got through. Lat. by obser|vation 67.40. long. 188.40. We continued working through the ice till

The 14th, when by observation we were in lat. 69.37. We continued bearing away to the northward, till

The 18th, when by observation we were in lat. 70.28. long. 194.54. and being very near the ice, a large white bear passed us in the water, but made for the ice at a great rate. In half an hour, we saw multitudes of them upon the ice, making to the eastward, when we observed the sea-cows, as the bears approached them, flying like sheep pursued by dogs.

On the 20th we came in sight of land at the distance of about 5 or 6 leagues, bearing from S. to S. E. sounded from 24 to 21 fathom. Our course being W. ½ S. all the morning, at 3 P. M. we al|tered it, and stood to the southward and westward. This day the crew of the Resolution had the good fortune to fall in with two large white bears, and to kill them both, the two fore tusks of the largest weighed 436lb.

On the 21st we stood from W. ½ N. to W. N. W. and at six o'clock we passed a large island of ice, on which were whole herds of sea-cows of an enormous size. We fired several muskets among them, which sent them to the water with dreadful yellings. At nine in the evening we came in sight of the American shore, distant about six leagues. We steered all night W. by N. and next

morning found ourselves almost surrounded with fields of ice drifting to the southward. At twelve o'clock we hauled our wind to the southward, and, by the alertness of our seamen, we passed them with very little damage.

On the 22d, about two A M. we again stood S. S. W. but at six saw the ice all round us from S. E. to N. W. hauled our wind upon our larboard tack, and stood S. S. E. We were all this day luffing up and bearing away to avoid the ice, which was on every side in sight, in many frightful shapes.

On the morning of the 23d it came on to blow very hard, and, before noon, we found ourselves closely blocked up in the ice, and could see it all round us in a solid body, to a great distance. At the same time we saw the Resolution bearing N. E. ½ E. some miles off, which was the last sight we had of her during the whole day. In this horrid situation we handed all our sails, unbent our fore-top-sail, and moored ship with both our ice anchors, one to each bow.

We now began to reflect on our condition; the winter drawing on apace; our provisions short, and what we had but very indifferent, and no re|lief to be expected; our people's spirits began to sink, and it was with difficulty that they were per|suaded to exert themselves for their own deliver|ance. Fortunately for us, we had, in the evening, a shift of wind from W. N. W. with a steady breeze, when our Captain, looking over our star|board quarter, discerned the ice to the southward, seemingly to leave the ship, and soon heard a crash, as if a thousand rocks had been rent from their foundations; which we afterwards perceived to be the parting of the ice in different directions, and soon after found ourselves released. We in|stantly

got up our ice-anchors, and shaped our course from S. E. to E. S. E. but were frequently stopped by large pieces, which carried away great part of our sheathing forward, and damaged our stern, so that the ship made water at the rate of three inches and a half an hour; and at the same time had 37 inches in her well.

On the 24th we continued our course E. S. E. and came in fight of the Resolution, which had likewise received much damage about her bows. We were now clear of the ice, and, till three in the afternoon, sailed in company, till we came up with a solid body of ice, on which we saw a num|ber of amphibious animals, some of them very large. We instantly got out and manned our boats, and in three hours returned with eleven of the largest, about which all hands were employed the next day in skinning and cutting them up for blubber.

On the 25th we passed several fields of ice. We steered N. E. one-half E. and at noon was at the extreme of the easternmost land in sight, being then in lat. 69.12. and, by lunar obser|vation, in long. 187.16. East of London. It was now excessive cold; the snow froze as it fell. The blocks were choaked up, and the ropes increased by the frost to double their real size. In this con|dition it is easy to conceive, the fatigues to which the poor sailors were exposed; yet by a little en|couragement, increasing their allowance of grog, and giving them plenty of provisions, they con|tinued their labour with cheerfulness and astonish|ing perseverance.

On the 27th we found ourselves involved again among the loose ice, some of which it was out of our power to escape; and the leak still continuing rather to increase than abate, our Captain, with

Mr. Bailey the astronomer, and Mr. Burney, our first Lieutenant, went on board the Resolution, to report our situation to the Commodore, whom they found so ill as to be past all hopes of reco|very. Upon calling a council of officers, it was unanimously agreed, that we should proceed as fast as possible to some port, where we might repair our damages, and Kamshatska was appointed our place of rendezvous. We were now in lat. 68.10. and in long. 188. shaping our course S. E. with a light breeze from W. S. W.

On the 28th, at two in the morning we came in sight of the Asiatic shore, very high and covered with snow, distance about 7 or 8 leagues, we made sail and stood to the southward. About noon we found ourselves in lat. 67.11. by double altitudes, and in long. 188.10. E. the extreme of the east|ernmost end of the ice distant about 6 leagues. At ten at night we saw a great number of ducks, geese, and sea-parrots very near us, by which we judged land could not be far off.

On the 29th at noon we were in lat. 66.50. and long. 188.27. but no land in sight.

On the 30th we steered till noon to the S. E. with a steady breeze, and came in sight of two islands right a-head, distant about five or six leagues. The weather then became thick and hazy, and though we were certain that the main land of Asia and America were at no great dis|tance, we could see neither till about four o'clock in the afternoon; when the weather clearing up, we saw a passage or streight, to which we bore away, and found the two continents at seven o'clock on each side of us. Lat. 66. thirteen leagues asunder, beyond which they diverge to N. E. by E. and W. N. W. so as, in lat. 69. to be 300 miles asunder. This streight we called

North streight, the entrance of which we found the same as has been already described; and the current at this time setting to the N. W. very strong, made our passage not only difficult but dangerous. We shaped our course S. S. W. and continued the same the whole night, sounding from 22 to 26 fathom, grey sand and small shells.

On the 31st we passed Tschutuskoi-noss, called by the sailors Tuskan-noss, and soon came in sight of Cook's town, which we visited the last season, as has already been mentioned, and which we now passed with regret.

On the 1st of August we were in lat. 64.23. long. 189.15. the coast of Asia extending from N. W. by W. distant about 12 leagues.

Nothing remarkable till August the 5th, when we had an observation, and found ourselves in lat. 63.37.

On the 7th at noon we were by observation in lat. 59.38. and in long. 183.45. and at no great distance from the land. At four o'clock having a dead calm, the companies of both ships em|ployed themselves in fishing, and very fortunately caught a great number of large cod, which were equally distributed among the crews. To this place we gave the name of the bank of Good Pro|vidence; and as soon as the breeze sprung up, we made sail and stood to S. W.

On the 9th at noon, we were by observation in lat. 57. and long. 183.36.14. The weather being more moderate than it had been for several days, the signal was made to speak with the Resolution, when on enquiry, we were informed that the Captain was past recovery, and that the crew be|gan to grow sickly. At this time we had not one man on the sick list on board the Discovery.

On the 10th we continued our course S. W. by W. and on the 12th at noon having had contrary winds, we were in lat. 56.37. with the ship's head to the S. W.

In the evening of the 13th we had the Reso|lution's boat on board, to compare time, who brought the disagreeable news of the Captain's being given over by the surgeon.

On the 15th being in soundings, and the wea|ther calm, we hove to, in order to get some fish for the sick, and a few cod were caught and sent on board the Resolution to be distributed ac|cordingly.

On the 17th the wind that had been against us for some days past shifted in our favour; and at nine in the morning the man at the mast-head called out land to the N. W. which was found to be the island of Mednor, laid down to the S. E. of Beering Island, lat. at noon. 54.50.

Nothing remarkable till the 21st, when early in the morning the man at the mast-head again came in sight of land. It was then at a very great distance, and upon our starboard bow, but before night we were only distant from the mouth of Kamshatska bay, 12 or 13 leagues.

On the 22d at nine in the morning we had the Resolution's boat on board, to acquaint our Cap|tain with the death of our Commodore. We were then within sight of the flag, at the mouth of Kamshatska-bay, of which mention has already been made; and the wind being favourable, we continued our course for the entrance of the har|bour, which then bore from us W. S. W. lat. at noon 52.24.

On the 23d a little before midnight, we came to anchor within the light-house.

On the 24th our Captain, being now Commo|dore, made the signal to get under way by tow|ing; all the boats were accordingly got out, and the Commodore went on board the Resolution, where it was resolved, for the greater convenience of repairing the ships, and for erecting the tents and forge, to go within the upper harbour. And about four in the afternoon both ships came to, and were moored in three fathom and a half wa|ter, muddy bottom.

The old serjeant, who still commanded at the fort, came with a present of berries for Capt. Clerke. He seemed much affected when he was shewn his coffin, and was told it was his particular desire to be buried on shore.

Early next morning the tents were erected, and the sick were put on shore.

From the time we set sail out of this bay in June, till the present day, we had been in no har|bour to refit; and had been driven from island to island among the ice, till our ships had in a man|ner lost their sheathing, and were otherwise in a shattered condition; we were therefore happy in arriving safe.

August 25th, an express was sent to Bolcheritsk, to acquaint the new governor, Capt. Shmaleff, with our arrival, and with the death of our late Commander, at the same time requesting a fresh supply of cattle. Another express was sent to Paratounka, to desire the attendance of the priest, in order to consult with him concerning the interment of Capt. Clerke, whose desire was, to be buried in his church. While we were wait|ing the issue of these messages, the several pro|motions took place that followed in consequence of the Commander's death. Mr. Gore went on board the Resolution, and Mr. King, first Lieut.

of the Resolution, took the command of the Discovery. Other promotions took place, which the reader will remark by the sequel. The first care of the commanders of both ships was to provide for the recovery of the sick, and the repairs of the ships; and for that purpose a house was procured for the reception of the for|mer, and a contrivance made for having the latter dry.

The weather being now temperate and the coun|try delightful, the officers and gentlemen chose to sleep in their marquees on shore. It was how|ever thought expedient to shew every mark of respect to the Russian officers, who, though not of the first rank, were notwithstanding the only people with whom we had any concern, or with whom we could have any communication; they were therefore frequently invited to dinner, and they often attended.

On the 26th the priest arrived, when Capt. Gore acquainted him with the death of our com|mander, and of his desire to be buried in his church. The good old gentleman seemed much concerned, but started several difficulties, and appeared very unwilling to comply with the dy|ing request of the deceased. He urged several reasons to shew the impropriety of it; those of most weight were, that the church was soon to be pulled down; that it was every winter three feet deep in water; and that in a few years no vestige of it would remain, as the new church was to be erected near the town of Awatska, upon a drier and more convenient spot. He therefore advised the remains of the Comman|der to be deposited at the foot of a tree, the scite of which was to be included in the body of the new church, where the Captain's bones might

probably rest for ages undisturbed. These rea|sons, whether real or fictitious, the officers who had charge of the funeral could not disprove, and therefore people were sent to dig the grave where the priest should direct.

All hands were now busy at work on their dif|ferent employments. The Discovery, on being examined, was found to be in a most wretched condition; many of her timbers beneath the wale shaken, and some of her planks rotten, and for want of others to supply their places, were forced to be shifted.

The 29th was appointed for the interment; and to make the funeral the more solemn, every officer was desired to appear in his uniform; the marines to be drawn up under arms, and the com|mon men to be dressed as nearly alike as possible, in order to attend the corpse from the water-side to the grave. All this was readily complied with, and the procession began about ten in the morn|ing, when minute guns from the ships were fired, and the drums, muffled as usual, beat the dead march. When the corpse arrived at the grave, it was deposited under the triple discharge of the marines; and, the grave being covered, it was fenced in by piles driven deep in the ground, and the inside afterwards filled up with stones and earth, to preserve the body from being devoured in the winter by bears or other wild beasts, who are remarkable for their sagacity in scenting out the bodies of dead passengers, when they happen to perish and are buried near the roads.

This ceremony over, an escutcheon was pre|pared and neatly painted by Mr. Webber, with the Captain's coat of arms properly emblazon'd, and placed in the church of Paratounka, and un|derneath the following inscription:

There lies interred at the Foot of a Tree,
near the Ostrog of St. PETER, and PAUL,
The BODY of
CHARLES CLERKE, ESQUIRE,
COMMANDER of his Britannic Majesty's
Ships the Resolution and Discovery;
To which he succeeded on the Death of
JAMES COOK, Esquire,
Who was killed by the Natives of an Island he
discovered in the South Sea, after having ex
plored the Coast of America, from 42 deg.
27 min. to 70 deg. 40 min. 57 sec. N.
in search of a North-west Passage
from EUROPE to the
EAST-INDIES.

The Second Attempt being made by
CAPTAIN CLERKE, who sailed within some few
Leagues of Captain Cook; but was brought
up by a solid Body of Ice, which he found
from the American to the Asia shore,
and almost trended due East and
West.—He died at Sea,
on his Return to the
Southward, on the
22d Day of
AUGUST, 1779.
AGED, 38 Years.

Another inscription was fixed upon the tree under which he was interred. This tree was at some distance from the town, and near the hos|pital, round which several people had already been buried; but none so high upon the hill as the spot pointed out for the grave of Capt. Clerke. The inscription placed on this tree was nearly the same as that in the church of Paratounka, and was as follows:

Beneath this Tree lies the BODY of
CAPTAIN CHARLES CLERKE,
COMMANDER of his Britannic Majesty's
Ships the Resolution and Discovery,
Which Command he succeeded to on the 14th
of February, 1779, on the Death of
Captain JAMES COOK,
Who was killed by the Natives of some
Islands he discovered in the SOUTH
SEA, on the Date above.

CAPTAIN CLERKE died at Sea,
of a lingering Illness, on the 22d Day of
AUGUST, 1779,
In the 38th year of his AGE.
And was INFERRED on the 30th following.

On this occasion the inhabitants of both towns, and those of the whole country for many miles round, attended; and the crews of both ships were suffered to continue ashore, and to divert themselves, each as he liked best. It was the Captain's desire that they should have double allowance for three days successively, and all that while to be excused from other duty than what the ordinary attendance in the ships required; but the season being far advanced, and a long track of unknown sea to pass before we could reach China, the officers representing the hardships and inconveniencies that so much lost time might bring upon themselves, they very readily gave up that part of the Captain's bequest, and re|turned to their respective employments early the next day.

On the 4th of September, an Ensign arrived with a letter from the Governor to Capt. Gore, acquainting him, that orders had been given a|bout the cattle; that the bearer was to remain, to take care that nothing should be wanted that the garrison could supply; and that on the arrival of a sloop from Okotzk, which was daily expected, he would himself supply his place.

The Ensign farther informed Capt. Gore, that the sloop was laden with provisions and stores of all sorts for the use of the ships; but expressed some apprehensions for her safety, as the boats had been looking out for her several days. This news was of too much importance to be slighted. Accordingly,

On the 3d the pinnaces and beats from both ships were sent to the entrance of the bay, to assist, in case she should be in sight, in towing her 〈◊〉〈◊〉 but it was

The 11th before she arrived. She was a bark of about 80 tons, and had two guns mounted, which she fired as a salute, when she dropt an|chor, and was answered by a volley from the gar|rison, which consisted of a subaltern and twenty-five soldiers. She was no sooner moored, than we received a visit from a Put-parochich, or Sub-Lieutenant, who was to take the command of the fort. He was introduced to the Commodore, to whom he delivered the invoice of his lading; among which were wearing apparel and tobacco, two articles that were above all others acceptable to the ships companies.

As soon as the Lieutenant had executed his commission, and delivered up the stores to the Commodore, he took his leave, and returned to Bolcheritsk; and the ships being lightened afore, and their bows heaved up dry, so that the car|penters could get at the leaks, the Captains and principal officers finding little else to amuse them, made a party to scour the woods for game; but this proved the worst season in the year for hunting. They had been told, that rein-deer, wolves, foxes, beavers, and stone-rams, every where abounded in the forests of this country; and they had promised themselves great sport in pursuing them; but after staying out full two days and nights, during which time they had been exposed to several severe storms, they re|turned much fatigued, without having been able to kill a single creature. The parties who had been sent out to wood and water had succeeded much better. As soon as the ships were ready to launch, they were ready to compleat the hold. In short, the utmost dispatch was made to hasten our de|parture, so that by the latter end of September

we were in readiness to put to sea. The cattle with which we were now supplied, one would have thought, had dropt from another region, It is among the wonders of nature, with what celerity every vegetable and every animal changes its appearance in this climate.

On the 12th of June, when we left the harbour of Kamshatska, the spring had but just begun to announce the approach of summer, by the bud|ding of the trees, and the springing of the grass; but now, on our return, it was matter of surprize to find the fruits ripe, and the harvest in full perfection. The cattle were mere skin and bone, which we were glad to accept at first coming; but those that were now sent us were fine and fat, and would have made no bad figure in Smithfield-market. The grass was in many places as high as our knees, and the corn, where any grew, bore the promising appearance of a fine crop. In short, from the most dreary, barren, and desolate aspect, that any habitable country could present, this was become one of the most delightful. Mr. Nelson reaped a rich harvest of rare plants, and had the additional pleasure of gathering them in their most exalted state.

In this interval of idle time, between compleat|ing our repairs and clearing the harbour, we had leisure to take a view of the town near the shore, where we first moored, and that of Paratounka, where the priest lived, and where the church was situated. These towns have received some im|provement since they became subject to the Rus+sians, but are still most wretched dwellings. The houses are built (if we may call that building, which is half dug out of the earth, and half 〈◊〉〈◊〉 upon poles) in two different forms, one for their

summer, and the other for their winter resi|dence.

Their winter habitation is made by digging a square hole in the earth, about five or six feet deep, the length and breadth being proportioned to the number of people that are to live in it. At each corner of this square hole they set up a thick post, and in the intermediate space between these corner posts, they place other posts at cer|tain distances, and over these they lay balks, fastening them together with strong cords, which they make of nettles prepared in the manner of hemp. Across these they place other balks, in the manner of a bridge, then cover the whole with thatch, leaving a square opening in the middle, which serves at once for door, window, and chimney. On one side of this square is their fire-place, and on the opposite side is ranged their kitchen-furniture. On the two other sides are a kind of broad benches made with earth, on which each family lie, and in one of these huts or houses there live several families. To enter these huts by the only opening at top, they use a ladder, not made with rounds between two sides, like ours, but consisting only of narrow slips of wood fastened to a plank. This ladder the women mount with great agility, with children at their backs; and though the smoke would blind and suffocate those who are not used to it, yet the Kamshatskadales find no inconvenience from it.

Their summer huts, called balagans, are made by fixing up posts about fourteen feet above ground, and laying balks over them as before. On these they make a floor, and then raise a roof, which they thatch with grass. To these balagans they have two doors, which they ascend by the same kind of ladder.

In the winter they use the balagans for maga|zines, the thatch secures what they lay up in them from rain, and by taking away the ladder, it be|comes inaccessible to wild beasts and vermin.

It being summer, we had no access to their winter dwellings, which were all shut up, and they were not over fond of exposing their poverty; for though they have little to boast of, they are not without pride. The whole furniture of the commonality consists of dishes, bowls, troughs, and cans; their cans are made of birch bark, their other utensils of wood, which till the Russians in|troduced iron among them, they hollowed with instruments made of stone or bone; but with these tools their work was tedious and difficult. In these bowls they dress their food, though, be|ing wood, they will not bear the fire.

In the winter the men are employed in hunting, making sledges, and fetching wood; and the wo|men in weaving nets, and spinning thread.

In the spring the rivers begin to thaw, and the fish that wintered in them to go towards the sea; the men therefore in this season are busied in fishing, and the women in curing what they catch.

They chiefly catch the salmon, which are very plenty and very delicious, by spearing, at which they are as aukward as at shooting.

In the summer the men build both their winter and summer huts, train their dogs, and make their houshold utensils and warlike instruments; but the women make all the clothing, even to the shoes. Their clothes, for the most part, are made of the skins of land and sea-animals, parti|cularly deer, dogs, and seals; but sometimes they use the skins of birds, and frequently those of dif|ferent animals in the same garments. They com|monly

wear two coats; the under one with the hair inwards, and the upper one with the hair out|wards. The women have besides, an under gar|ment, not unlike Dutch trowsers, divided and drawn round the knees with strings.

They are filthy beyond imagination. They never wash their hands or faces, nor pare their nails. They eat out of the same dish with the dogs, which they never wash. Both men and women plait their hair in two locks, which they never comb; and those who have short hair, supply the locks with false. This is said of the Kamshatska|dales, who live more to the North; those in the towns which we saw, had learnt of the Russians to be more cleanly.

They are very superstitious: and the women in particular pretend to avert misfortunes, cure dis|eases, and foretel future events, by muttering in|cantations over the fins of fishes, mingled with a certain herb, which they gather from the woods with much labour. They pretend also to judge of good and bad fortune, by the lines of the hands, and by their dreams, which they relate to each other as soon as they awake. They dread going near the burning mountains, lest the invisible beings that inhabit them should hurt them; and think it a sin to drink or to bathe in the hot springs, with which their country abounds, because they suppose those springs to be heated by the evil spirits that produce them. They are said never to bury their dead; but, binding a strap round the neck of the corpse, drag it to the next forest, where they leave it to be eaten by the bears, wolves, or other wild inhabitants. They have a notion that they who are eaten with dogs will drive with fine dogs in another world. They throw away all the

clothes of the deceased, because they believe that they who wear them will die before their time.

The country is said to abound with wild beasts, which constitute the principal riches of the inha|bitants; particularly foxes, sables, stone-foxes, and hares, marmots, ermins, weasles, bears, wolves, rein-deer, and stone-rams; but our gentlemen were much disappointed, who went in pursuit of them. The only game they killed was a she-bear, though they diverted themselves in hunting with the natives for several days: nor were they much more successful in shooting; even the sea-fowl were hardly to be come at, they were so watchful. They have a species of weasle, called the glutton, whose fur is so much more esteemed than all others, that they say the good spirits are clothed with it. The paws of this animal are white as snow, but the hair of the body is yellow. Sixty rubles (about 12 guineas nearly) have been given for a skin, and a sea-beaver for a single paw.

Of the bears, the inhabitants make good use; of their skins they make their beds, coverings, caps, collars, and gloves; and of their flesh and fat, their most delicious food; but their manner of hunting them, is attended with much danger and little profit. They watch their haunts, and follow their tracks to the lakes where they resort. They then choose some convenient place to con|ceal themselves, to be in readiness to watch their prey. They then plant their rests (for no Kamt|shatskadale ever shoots without a rest) and when the bear comes within distance, they point their guns, and let fly. If they kill or maim, so that the bear cannot pursue, 'tis well; but if they miss, as they frequently do, 'tis happy for the hunter if he escapes. The enraged beast makes at the place whence the report is heard, and, if

not received on the hunter's spear, which he al|ways has in reserve, the combat becomes so un|equal, that the bear is generally the conqueror.

The Kamshatskadales, all along the Northern coasts, have a particular manner of dressing their food, which is the very reverse of that of the In|dians in the South. There they roast or stew with stones made hot and buried, as it were, in the earth with their meat, by which its relish is said to be much improved. But here they boil it with hot stones immersed in water, by which its flavour is rendered more insipid. The same necessity, however, seems to have pointed out the same means to the people of the torrid and the frigid zones; for both being equally unacquainted with iron, and wood being incapable of resisting fire, when brought in contact with it, though the prin|ciple was obvious, the application was difficult; those, therefore, of the torrid zone, would natu|rally be led to call the warmth of the earth to their aid; whilst those in the frozen climates, would think water a more ready assistant: add to this, that the colder regions abound with hot springs; some in Kamshatska, in particular, are so hot, as to approach nearly to the degree of boiling water; but these they think it sinful to use, as we have al|ready observed.

The dogs of this country are like our village curs, and are of different colours. They feed chiefly on fish; and their masters use them, instead of horses or rein-deer, to draw sledges.

The seas and lakes abound with a variety of amphibious animals, of which seals and sea-horses and sea-cows, are the most numerous and the most profitable. Of the skins of the seal they make their canoes, and on their flesh and fat they feed

deliciously. Whales are sometimes cast upon the shores, but very seldom, unless wounded.

With the teeth and bones of the sea-horse and sea-cow, they point their arrows and weapons of war; and of their fat and blubber they make their oil. They have otters in their lakes, but their skins bear a great price.

They have birds of various kinds in great abun|dance. Among the sea-fowl, they have the puffin, the sea-crow, the Greenland pigeon, and the cor|morant. They have swans, geese, and eleven species of ducks; and they have plovers, snipes, and small birds without number. They have likewise four kinds of eagles; the black eagle, with a white head; the white eagle; the spotted eagle, and the brown eagle. They have vultures also, and hawks innumerable.

This country swarms with insects in the sum|mer, which are very troublesome; but they have neither frog, toad, nor serpent. Lizards are not rare; but they believe these creatures to be spies, sent from the infernal powers to inspect their lives and foretel their deaths; and therefore whenever they see one, they kill it, and cut it into small pieces, that it may not carry back any intelligence to their hurt.

But what is most remarkable, and deserves the attention of the curious, is the general conformity between the Kamshatskadales towards the East, and of the Americans, that live on the opposite coast, just over against them, in their persons, ha|bits, customs, and food; both dress exactly in the same manner; both cut holes in their faces in the manner already described, in which they put bones like false teeth, by way of ornament; and both make their canoes exactly on the same con|struction. These are about twelve feet long and two

broad, sharp at the head and stern, and flat at the bottom; they consist of flat pieces of wood, joined at both ends, and kept apart in the middle by a transverse piece, through which there is a round hole, just large enough for the man to insert his legs, and to seat himself on a bench made on pur|pose; this skeleton is covered with seal-skin, dyed of a kind of purple colour, and the whole is skirted with loose skin, which, when the man is seated, he draws close round him, like the mouth of a purse; and, with a coat and a cap of the same skin, which covers his whole body, makes the man and his boat appear like one piece; and thus clad, and thus seated and surrounded, he fears neither the roughest sea, nor the severest weather. But here it is necessary to distinguish between the native Kamshatskadales and the Rus|sians who live at Kamtshatska, who preserve the Russian language and the Russian manners.

And now we have had occasion to mention this similiarity between the inhabitants on the opposite shores of Asia and America, we shall em|brace this opportunity to correct a very material error in our account of our last year's voyage, where, speaking of the Russian Discoveries, we took notice, after examining Beering's Straits, though the Russians supposed that the lands were parted, here we found the continent to join, by which the Reader will, no doubt, imagine, that we have asserted, that the two continents of Asia and America join, which they do not; but are se|parated by a strait between two promontories, which in clear weather are so near as to be seen in sailing through with the naked eye. But what is meant is this. When Beering made his dis|covery, in coasting along the American shore, he discovered a sound or strait, which having sur|mounted,

he found himself in a great bay, which he imagined was another sea; and that the land which he had passed was not the American con|tinent, but a great island separated from the con|tinent by the sound or strait just mentioned. This sound therefore, and this bay, we examined; and sound that what the Russians had mistaken for an island, is actually a part of the American conti|nent. Hence it appears, that notwithstanding all that was written against it, Beering is justly en|titled to the honour of having discovered all that part of the N. W. continent of America that has been hitherto marked in our maps as parts un|known.

It remains now only to give a short description of the bay and harbour where we repaired, which at the entrance is between two very high bluff rocks. On the starboard as we enter is the light-house, of which mention has already been made; and at the distance of about twenty miles the vol|cano, from whence flames and ashes are sometimes emitted; and these eruptions are carried by the wind to a great distance, and to the great terror of the inhabitants. The bay is about eight leagues deep, and lies from S. E. to N. W. and from N. E. to S. W. it is about four leagues. It is in|accessible during the winter, by reason of the ice, but very safe and convenient during the summer. There are in it three excellent harbours.

The harbour where we lay to careen and re|pair, would contain about twenty ships of the line in perfect safety, being closely surrounded with high hills, except at the entrance. The people are civil, and in their way very obliging; but their manner of living affords nothing very enchanting for sailors.

Our ships being now in as good repair as we had reason to expect from the length of the voy|age they had passed, the rigorous weather to which they had been exposed, the boisterous seas they had shipped, and, above all, from the violent con|cussions of the ice that had shaken their very frames, and had stript them of their sheathing: and being likewise plentifully provided with pro|visions and stores, by the generosity of her Impe|rial Majesty of Russia, and by the care and bene|volence of her Governors and officers.

On the 9th of October, 1779, we weighed, and soon were without the light-house, shaping our course to the southward, and

On the 10th were in lat. 52.36. when we had a dead calm, and went to fishing for cod, with good success. Thermometer 52.

On the 11th we pursued our course, and by noon were in lat. 51.1.

On the 12th we stood S. W. and at night sounded at sixty-two fathom, having in the after|noon passed three small islands to the westward of us, and Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of Kamtshatska. Lat. 50.19. Thermometer 48.52½.

On the 13th we were in lat. 50. long. 157. Course as before.

On the 14th we still continued the same course, full in view, and passed Paramousin, the largest of the Kurile Islands. Lat. 48.30.

The 15th we altered our course in search of some islands, which the Russians said were inha|bited by people of a gigantic size, who were co|vered with hair; but who notwithstanding were very civil, and would supply us with cattle and hogs, with which their islands abounded. These islands, however, we never found, nor the land of

De Gama, though we continued searching for them till

The 19th, when a storm came on, and we lost sight of the Discovery; but next day were in company, and resumed our course; the gale con|tinuing till

The 22d, when we found ourselves in lat. 41. and long. E. from London 149.20. The wind which had abated in the day, freshened again about nine at night, and soon increased to a gale, when we were obliged to lie-to; as we imagined, from the usual signs and soundings at eighty fathoms, that we must be near land.

In the morning of the 23d we stood N. N. W. in search of land, but found none. At noon, by double al••. lat 4••.48. long. 146.17. E. About ten at night we altered our course W. N. W. and so continued till

The 25th, when we were in lat. 40.18. long. 144.29. E. and continued our course with an easy sail. At three in the afternoon, a large piece of timber passed us to the northward. And

On the 26th, early in the morning, the man at the mast-head called out land, distant about seven or eight leagues, bearing E. by N. to N. W. We then found ourselves within sight of Japan. The country is of a moderate heigth, consists of a double chain of mountains, abounds with wood, and has a pleasing appearance, being chequered with hills and vallies, and well stored with houses, villages, and cites. Here being only in ten fa|thom off the shore, we cast our fishing-lines over|board, but without success. Lat. 40.56. long. E. Thermometer 52.55.

Early in the morning of the 27th we saw 2 sail, seemingly very large, making towards us from the shore. We cleared ship, and made the signal to

the Discovery to do the same. One was a square-rigged vessel, though she had but one mast, ap|peared to be higher at each end than in the mid|ship, very shor••, and built much in the manner of the Chinese junks. We hoisted English colours. She looked at us, but made sail to the westward, and we continued our course.

On the 28th we saw land bearing W. N. W. to S. half W. distant about six leagues. We then sounded sixty-four fathom, and stood from S. to S. E. by E. Lat. 38.16. long. 142.10. Thermo|meter fifty nine and a half.

On the 29th we again stood S. half W. and in the morning observed another vessel making 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the eastward at a great distance. We again hoisted English colours, but she paid no attention to them, and we pursued our course

On the 30th we were in lat. 36.41. steering S. W. Thermometer sixty-four and a half.

On the 31st saw land very high, from W. half N. to N. W. at a great distance. Saw several birds of a brown plumage hovering about the ships, driven from the land by the storm of light+ning and rain, which blew in heavy squalls.

November ••, steered all day from S. to S. W. saw a high mountain, which seemed to be a vol+cano, but at a great distance. Lat. at noon 35. ••••. Tacked and stood to the northward.

On the 2d we again tacked, and stood E. half S. and, finding the water of a milky colour, sounded, but had no ground at 150 fathoms. Lat. 36.30. long. 140.26. Thermometer •••• and a half.

The 3d, the wind ••••om the S. S. E. we now continued working to the eastward, to clear the land, but made little way, though a storm came on, which lasted till next day.

The 4th, the wind being against us, we ad|vanced but slowly, being at noon in 35.49. only; with a great swell from the S. W. Thermometer 72 and a half.

The 5th we had only advanced 2 min.

On the 6th, the wind shifted to the N. E. made sail, and stood all day S. by W. to S. S. W. Lat. 35.15.

The 7th, the sea all round was covered with pumice stones floating to the Northward, several pieces of which being taken up, weighed from one ounce to three pounds. We now approached the climate where bonettoes, albatrosses, sharks, dolphins, porpusses, and flying-fish are seen to play their frolics.

On the 8th we saw sea-weed, pieces of timber, great quantities of pumice, and other signs of land; but no land came in fight. At night we shortened sail.

On the 9th, we stood the whole day S. W. Lat. 32.48. Thermometer 71 and a half.

The 10th, blew a heavy gale from N. N. W. hauled out wind to N. E.

On the 11th, bore away again S. by W. but, the gale increasing towards night, hauled our wind to the Northward.

The 12th, the gale continued, lay-to, with the ships heads to the Westward. Shipped many heavy seas, and the rain fell in torrents.

The 13th, the storm abated. Stood S. S. W. all day; we still continued to pass prodigious quan|tities of pumice-stones, which almost cover the sea between Japan and the Basha Islands, which indicate some great convulsion in nature. Our officers were of opinion, that the Company's land and Staten Island had disappeared in this convulsion; but our philosophers were of another mind. Lat. at noon 25.56. long. 143.18. E.

On the 14th made sail, W. S. W. At 11 A. M. the Discovery made the signal for land, which we answered. It then bore S. W. distant seven or eight leagues, and appeared like a burn|ing mountain, from whence proceeded, as was supposed on better grounds, all the pumice we had seen. In the night saw volumes of flame proceeding from it, very awful.

On the 15th lost sight of the volcano; but in the evening another made a still more awful ap|pearance, and the volcanic crater was clearly de|scernible by our glasses on board the ship. This was confirmed, by the strong sulphureous smell which they omitted, as we approached them. To the southernmost, our Captain gave the name of Sulphur Island. Lat. 24.48. long. 141.12. We were now in lat. 24.50. long. 140.20. E. Thermometer 72½.

On the 16th we bore away W. half S. Wind fresh from E. N. E. At noon found ourselves in lat. 24.25. having, by the variation and setting of the current, gone 20 miles to the Northward. Long. 138.16.20.″ E. Thermometer 75 and a half.

Early on the 17th, being near the tropic, and expecting the weather to continue fine, we shifted our canvas and running-rigging, and bent our old ones, knowing what we had still to expect before we reached our native shores; and we made the signal for the Discovery to go on our hull-beam in search of land, but found none. Lat. at noon 23.46.

On the 18th we stood the whole day W. S. W. with a stiff breeze. And

On the 19th were in lat. 22.30.

The 20th continued our course without any thing material.

The 21st we were in lat. 21.42. a hard gale and heavy rain.

The 22d we kept our course the whole day. Lat. at noon 20.46.

The 23d altered our course, and stood W. by S. Lat. 21. long. 123.20.

The 24th hauled our wind, and stood N. N. W. Hard gale from N. E.

The 25th the gale increasing, we lay-to, with the ships heads to the Northward. During the night there was an eclipse of the moon, but could not be observed because of the violent rain. At the time of the greatest darkness, a sailor on board the Discovery, in stowing the main top-mast-stay-sail of the Discovery, fell over board; but fortunately laying hold of a rope hanging from the fore-chains into the water, he was got on board, with|out any other hurt than a slight bruise on one shoulder. Lat. at noon 21.29.

The 26th we again bore away W. S. W. and so continued all day.

The 27th continued the same course all day. At night shortened sail, and hauled up to N. N. W.

Early on the 28th we were surprised by break|ers close under our bows. Made the signal to the Discovery, and immediately tacked to the South|ward. At seven we wore ship, and again stood to the N. W. At ten saw breakers from N. E. by E. to W. by S. the nearest distant about a mile. We sounded at fifty-four fathom, and bore away W. S. W. keeping a proper distance from the reefs, and coasting along till we passed them. About noon the S. W. end bore from us N. N. W. distant about two miles, lat. 21.30. long. 116.45, the island of Prata distant 3 or 4

leagues. We then made sail N. N. W. which course we continued all night.

On the 29th, about eight, A. M. we came in sight of a whole fleet of small craft, which we took to be fshing-vessels. They were at a great distance, and not one of them left their employ|ment to come near us. Lat. 21.58. We were now only distant from Macao, the port to which we were bound, about twenty-six leagues.

On the 30th we wore ship, and stood to the Southward, and about eleven in the morning, the man at the mast-head called out, Land, bearing W. ½ S. distant about three leagues. This proved one of the northernmost of the Ladrone Islands. As soon as we came within distance, we fired two guns for a pilot, and one came presently along-side, and our Captain agreed for thirty-five dol|lars to carry us into Macao.

December 1st, about two in the afternoon, after a passage of one-and-twenty days, we cast anchor within four miles of the harbour, where we were met by two Chinese gentlemen, who told us of the French war, and of his Majesty's ship the Seahorse having left that place about the time we left Kamshatska. About eight in the evening our boats were manned, and our third Lieutenant went to the English factory there for news, and about ten returned with the magazines and news-papers for 1776, 1777, 1778, being the latest they had received. He likewise brought a confirmation of the French war, and of the continuance of the American war; and that five sail of English ships were now at Vampo, near Canton, in China.

On the 2d, early in the morning, we made sail, and anchored a-breast of the island, and saluted the Governor with thirteen guns, which were an|swered

with an equal number from the fort. We had scarce dropt anchor, when we were visited by two English gentlemen, who, after learning who we were, and what we had been upon, per|suaded the Commodore to leave our then situa|tion, and to moor the ships in a safer birth to the leeward of a small island about two miles distant, where they might remain without danger.

It was now three years since we had been in any port, where we could converse any otherwise than by signs; and before any one was suffered to go ashore, the Commodore called all hands aft, and ordered them to deliver up their jour|nals, and every writing, remark, or memoran|dum that any of them had made of any particu|lar respecting the voyage, on pain of the se|verest punishment in case of concealment, in or|der that all those journals, writings, remarks, or memorandums, respecting the voyage, might be sealed up, and directed to the Lords of the Ad|miralty. At the same time requiring that every chart of the coasts, or of any part of any of the coasts where we had been, or draught of any thing curious might be delivered up in like man|ner, in order to accompany the journals, &c. all which was complied with; and the papers were made up and sealed accordingly in sight of the whole crew, the papers of the commissioned offi|cers by themselves, the papers of the non-com|missioned officers by themselves, and the papers of the marines and common men by themselves. The boats were then ordered out, and sent to Macao for fresh provisions, which next day were dealt out to the ships companies at full allowance. But before these could return, there came from the town boats with beef, veal, pork, ducks, geese, turnips, carrots, lemons, oranges, and every other

article of provisions which the island produced; some as presents to the Captains and officers; but by far the greatest part to make their market.

Being now safely moored, the first thing that claimed the attention of the Commodore, was to provide as well as he could for the safety of the crews in their return home. The news of a French war, without letting us know at the same time the order issued by the French king in our favour, gave us much concern. Our ships were ill fitted for war; the decks fore and aft being finished flush, had no covering for men or officers; it was therefore thought necessary to strengthen the stanchions and rails, and to raise a kind of parapet, musket-proof on both decks; and likewise to strengthen the cabins as much as possible, in case of action. And as it was agreed that both ships could carry more guns, if any were to be purchased, the Commo|dore was for taking the ships to Canton, till per|suaded from it by some gentlemen belonging to the English factory, who undertook to negociate the business without giving umbrage to the Chi|nese, who certainly would, they said, be offended at the appearance of ships of war in their river, and would oppose their progress; reminding him at the same time, of the disagreeable dispute in which Commodore Anson was formerly involved on a similar occasion; and how hurtful it was to the Company's commerce for several years after. Upon these representations the Commodore re|linquished his design, and Capt. King, with other officers, were sent in a Company's ship, assisted by one or two gentlemen belonging to the fac|tory, to Canton, to purchase cannon and such other stores as were not to be had at Macao.

On the 18th they set sail, and at the same time two Portuguese vessels from the harbour of Ma|cao, came and anchored close by us. They were bound to Bengal and Madras, and very readily assisted us with ropes for running rigging, some canvas, and with 60 fathom of cable. They likewise exchanged four small cannon and some shot with the Discovery for a spare anchor.

The 25th, being Christmas-day, was kept, as is usual with English sailors, in jollity and mirth; and what added to the pleasure of the day, there was not a man ill in either ship.

On the 28th the Commodore received a let|ter from Capt. King, with an account of the disasters that had happened in the passage, hav|ing lost two anchors and their boat, and were several times in danger of running ashore; that they did not arrive at Canton till the 24th; but that he hoped soon to return with the cannon and stores, for which he had bargained, though at a great price.

Here they learnt that the skins we had brought with us from the N. W. Continent of America, were of nearly double the value at Canton, as at Kamshatska.

Early on the 29th there came into the harbour of Macao a Spanish galleon from Manilla, said to have more than two millions of treasure on board; and before we left our station, there came in ano|ther worth double that sum. We were unac|quainted with the Spanish war, or these ships, had we been properly commissioned, might easily have been captured. It is astonishing, that none of our cruisers have ever lain in wait for these ships, as their voyage is annual, and their course known.

The same evening a quarrel happened between a party of our sailors, on shore with leave, and some of the town's people, in which several were dangerously wounded on both sides; and Mr. Bur|ney, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, had a dagger run through his left arm in endeavour|ing to put an end to the fray. For this insult the Governor sent to demand satisfaction; but upon examination, the town's people were found to be the aggressors. The Governor made a very handsome apology for his mistake, and the affair ended without any serious consequences.

We were now visited daily by strangers, who came out of curiosity to see ships that had been so many years upon discovery; and every one was anxious to learn what he could concerning our course, but that we were not at liberty to tell them. Among the rest came two French spies, as we imagined; but not being able to make out any thing criminal against them, they were suffered to depart. The suspicion arose from some of our men, who having particularly marked them, in|sisted that they had formerly sailed with them in the French service. Nothing remarkable till

Jan. the 8th, 1780, when Capt. King, with the officers that accompanied him, arrived in the Com|pany's vessel, with the cannon, ammunition, and stores from Canton. These being shipped, no|thing remained to be done, but to take on board the live stock which the Commodore and officers had purchased for their own use, and nine head of cattle to be killed at sea for the use of the ship's company; the beef and pork which we brought from England, being now scarce eatable. Pro|visions of all kinds were here very dear, and very indifferent; but what made us amends, was the

price they gave for our furs, on which they set a great value.

On the 11th of January we unmoored, and the wind being fair, came to sail with a pleasant breeze; but the wind dying away in the evening, we cast anchor; and in the night, John Cave, Quarter-master, and Robert Spencer, ran away with the great cutter. And

On the 12th, we were the whole day detained in endeavouring to recover them, but to no pur|pose.

On the 13th, we passed the fort, and saluted the garrison with 13 four pounders, which they answered with an equal number.

We had now nothing but a beaten track to pass, in our way to our long wished-for native country.

On the 20th, we made the little group of islands, known by the name of Pulo Condore, in lat. 8.40. N. at one of which we anchored, and found it inhabited. Here we both wooded and watered, and the carpenters felled some large trees, which were afterwards sawed on board. The trees on these islands are chiefly cedar, iron-wood, man|grove, manchinael, and box. Some nutmeg-trees there were, but of a wild kind, that bear a fruit without taste or smell. In pursuit of game, of which there was plenty, our gentlemen fell in with a party of natives, one of whom accompanied them to the ships. We made him understand that we wanted provisions; and he had not left us long, before a number of boats came round the island, laden with fruits, fowls, ducks, and other provi|sions, which they readily exchanged for any thing we offered them, though they were not wholly un|acquainted with the use of money; for being in|formed that herds of buffaloes were on the island, we purchased seven; three of them, of a large size,

from four to seven dollars each. These were fierce animals, and were not easily brought on board; but after being subdued, were as gentle and trac|table as the gentlest of our other cattle. What seems surprising is, that the men on the island dare hardly go near them when loose in the woods; but they will suffer little boys to handle and halter them, which is done by passing a rope through a hole made in their nostrils, and round their horns; notwithstanding which, some of them broke the trees down to which they were fastened. Here we found the cabbage-tree, and other succulent greens, with which our people made very free, without asking questions.

On the 28th we unmoored; and on

The 31st, made the island of Banka; and hav|ing passed the Straits,

On the 5th of February, we made the island of Sumatra, where we saw a large ship lying at an|chor; and

On the 7th, passed the island of Java, where we saw two more. We made the signal to the Discovery to prepare for action, and we did the same, hoisting English colours. It was some time before they shewed any, but, at length, they hoisted Dutch colours. We sent our boat on board, and received the first news of a Spanish war. We pursued our course; and

On the 11th, we made the island of Cocoterra. Here, from a healthy ship's company, several of our people fell ill of the flux, and so continued for some time; however, having got plenty of good water on board, we sailed

On the 13th, directing our course to Prince's island.

On the 15th, we entered the bay of Prince's island, where Capt. Cook, when he commanded

the Endeavour, anchored in his return to Europe. Here we purchased turtles, fowls, and some deer; and here we laid in store of cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other vegetables; and having compleated our stock of water, set sail

On the 18th, directing our course for the Cape of Good Hope. Nothing remarkable till

The 25th of March, when we were attacked by a severe storm, attended with thunder, light|ning and rain, which lasted five days without in|termission.

On the 7th of April, we were alarmed by find|ing our rudder-head almost twisted off. We got the pendants fixed to steer with tackles, it being the carpenter's opinion it could not last till our ar|rival at the next port. However, by proper ap|plication it lasted till we arrived at the Cape.

On the 9th, we fell in with Cape Lagullas, where, about nine in the morning, we saw a small vessel cruising, which proved to be the East India Company's snow, Betsey, looking out for the East India fleet. She left England the 5th of Novem|ber, and False Bay on the 4th instant. She con|firmed the account we had received of the Spanish war. We exchanged some trifles, and soon parted. And

On the 12th, we entered Bay False, came to, and moored the same day, after having saluted the fort with 13 guns, which was answered by the same number. We had scarce dropt anchor, when the Governor came on board, bringing with him a packet of letters for Capt. Cook, which had lain there ever since the beginning of 1779; he had heard of the death of Capt. Cook by a Dutch vessel, and expressed great concern for that unhappy event, asking a thousand questions concerning the particulars.

The first care of our Commodore was to pro|vide for the sick; and by three in the afternoon they were all landed, and sent to the hospital un|der the care of the Surgeon's mate. All hands were next set to their different employments, some to wood and water, and some to compleat the re|pairs. These they forwarded with the utmost ex|pedition, every one being eager to get to his native country. Of the repairs, the Resolution's rudder was the most material. The first thing, therefore, to be done, was to unhinge it and get it on shore; and though this was immediately put in hand, it was

The 27th before it was restored to its place.

By the 29th, the fick, who were numerous when we arrived at the Cape, we having 16 ill of the flux, were pretty well recovered: the repairs were in forwardness, and the stores ready to be taken on board at a moment's notice, when news was brought us, that an express was arrived at Ta|ble Bay from England, in the Sibbald frigate, which had only been ten weeks from Plymouth, and that she was to return again as soon as she had delivered her dispatches. Both Captains went in|stantly to learn the contents; and, on their return, orders were given to prepare as fast as possible to sail. This was joyful news. The substance of these dispatches related chiefly to the course the East Indiamen were to steer, to fall in with the convoy appointed to meet them; with some in|structions for our Commodore, respecting the pa|pers which were to be transmitted to the Admi|ralty, which were all put on board the frigate; and Mr. Portlock, Master's mate, embarked along with them.

On the 30th, they set sail; but it was

The 7th of May before we were in readiness to follow. About noon, on that day, the signal was

made for unmooring. We had now 120 live sheep on board, and the Discovery a like propor|tion. We had all other provisions in equal plenty, and we had likewise a healthy crew, in high spi|rits, wishing for nothing but a fair wind to shorten our voyage; but that was not yet to be obtained. We had scarce saluted the garrison on taking leave, when the wind died away, and a great swell ensued, which continued till

The 9th, when the snow came in sight, which ••e spoke with on the 8th of April. We sent our pinnace for news from sea; but she had seen only 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sail pass since we first spoke with her.

On the 19th of April, the whole crew were near being blown up, by the Snow's taking fire forwards: the ship was much damaged, and they were putting into the Cape to resit, and then were bound for St. Helena.

On the 1••th, we made sail, and pursued our course 〈◊〉〈◊〉 without any material occurrence, till

The 10th of June, when the Discovery's boat brought us word, that, in ••••…••••…ising the great guns, the carpenter's mate had his arm shattered in a shocking manner, by part of the wadding be|ing left in after a former discharge; another man was slightly wounded at the same time.

On the 12th, it began to blow very hard, and so continued till next day, when the Discovery sprung her main-top-mast, and we were obliged to lie-to till another was put up.

On the 13th, we crossed the line to the North|ward, and observed a water-spout to the N. W. at no great distance; and for the remainder of the month had fine weather. Thermometer from 80 to 78½.

July the 1st, we had the Discovery's people on

board, to compare time. Lat. at noon, 20. N. long. 34. W.

On the 13th, the ship's birth-day was celebrated on board, and double allowance given to the whole crew, who were at this time in perfect health.

On the 27th, at day-light, the Discovery made the signal for seeing a sail. We instantly began to clear ship, in case of an enemy, and hoisted English colours; and, on our near approach, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sail did the same. She was bound to the South|ward, and we pursued our course.

On the 1st of August, just at sun-set, we saw a sail at a great distance to the Westward, but in the morning she was quite out of sight. We were then in lat. 43.56. N.

On the 7th, we were in lat. 48. long. 10.10. W. a heavy gale, with rain.

On the 9th, the wind shifted to the Eastward, when we shaped our course to the North of Ire+land. Blew hard all day

On the 21st, being then in lat. 59.4. N. long. 9.6. saw a sail standing to the Southward, when we made the Discover•…•…'s signal to chace; but the gale continuing, could not come near enough to 〈…〉〈…〉. In the evening, the man at the mast|head called out, Land, distant about three leagues.

〈◊〉〈◊〉 on the 22d, made the signal for a pilot, and at eight o'clock a pilot came off, and by the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 we were safely moored in the harbour 〈◊〉〈◊〉 S•…•…omness, in the North of Scotland. We were soon visited by the gentlemen in the neighbour|hood▪

〈◊〉〈◊〉 the 23d, fresh beef and greens were served in 〈…〉〈…〉 to both ships companies; and the 〈…〉〈…〉 passengers went on shore, and set out for 〈…〉〈…〉 The Captains and officers went like|wise

on shore, and the men had liberty to divert themselves by turns during our stay.

By the 29th, we had got wood and water enough on board to serve us to London; and at noon, the signal was made to weigh; but the wind coming about, and blowing fresh from the S. E. obliged us not only to relinquish our design for the pre|sent, but detained us till the 19th of September.

On the 20th of September, Capt. King of the Discovery, Mr. Bailey, our astronomer, and Mr. Webber, left the ships, and set out for London; and Mr. Burney, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, took the command of the Discovery in the absence of Capt. King.

During our stay, the ships were visited by gen|tlemen from all the islands round; and by the Apollo frigate and her consort: they brought in a prize, valued at 10,000l. and both Captains came to visit Capt. Gore, on board the Resolution, who now was taken very ill, and so continued to the end of the voyage. The same afternoon, the wind came round in our favour, when the signal was made for unmooring, and both ships got under way. At night we came to an anchor with the tide.

On the 23d, Samuel Johnson, Serjeant of ma|rines, died; and next morning his corpse was committed to the deep.

On the 25th, the wind came again to the Eastward, and continued against us most of our passage.

On the 28th, we passed by Leith, off which we again spoke with his Majesty's ship Apollo.

On the 29th, John Davis, Quarter-master, died. Our detension at Stromness proved unfortunate for these two men, who died in their passage.—Had the ships arrived in a direct course, their

friends would at least have had the satisfaction of administering all in their power to their recovery, which, to persons who had been so long absent, would have been no small consolation.

On the 30th, we came to an anchor off Yar|mouth, in company with his Majesty's sloops of war, the Fly and Alderney. Our boats were im|mediately sent on shore for provisions; and for a spare cable for our small bower, that we had being near worn out. We lay here till

The 2d of October, when we weighed, and sailed.

On the 4th, we came to at the Nore. And

On the 6th, dropt our anchors at Deptford, having been absent just four years, three months, and two days.