An excursion to Brighthelmstone: made in the year 1789, by Henry Wigstead and Thomas Rowlandson; ... Embellished with eight engravings in aqua tinta, ...

AN EXCURSION TO BRIGHTHELMSTONE

CROSSING the Thames over Westminster-Bridge, we entered the County of Surry—of which we think it necessary to prefix a general but concise Description.

SURRY is terminated, on the West, by Hampshire; on the South, by Sussex; on the East, by Kent; and on the North, by the River Thames.—It is 39 Miles in Length from Rotherhithe, in the East, to Trensham, in the West; and 26 Miles in breadth, from the Thames, in the North, to Awfold, in the South: and 146 Miles in Circumference. It contains 780 Square Miles, or about 499, 000 Acres; near 28,900 Houses; 14 Hundreds: 140 Parishes; 11 Market Towns; 550 Villages and Hamlets; and about 171,000 Inhabitants.—

In this County are several Royal Palaces, and a great Number of Noblemen and Gentlemen's Villas.—The Air and the Soil, in the interior Parts, are very different from what they are at the Extremities.—On the Borders, the Air is Mild and healthy; and the Soil, fertile in Corn and Hay, with a Proportion of Woodland,—especially in the

South, about Holmsdale; and in the North, near the Thames. But, in the interior Parts, the Air is bleak, and the Soil, in general, sandy and sterile.—The Principal Rivers, which abound with Fish are (exclusive of the Thames) the Mole, the Wey, and the Wandle. The Mole, which rises in the South East of the County, obtained its Name from its Sinking in the Earth at the Foot of Box-Hill, and after having run under Ground for two Miles, emerging again at Leatherhead; from whence it continues its Course Northwards, and falls into the Thames at a Village called Moulsey. The Wey enters this County from Hampshire, near Farnham; and runs Eastward to Godalming; there turning to the North, it becomes navigable to Weybridge, where it falls into the Thames.— The Wandle rises near Carshalton, and runs with a clear, though small Stream, famous for Trout, by Merton-Abbey, to Wandsworth, where it falls into the Thames.

The first Place, that deserves Notice, after we had passed Westminster-Bridge, was KENNINGTON, a Village near Lambeth, and one of the Eight Precincts of that Parish.—On the Common of the same Name, a temporary Gibbet is frequently erected for the Execution of Criminals in the County of Surry.—About 2 Miles farther, and 3 Miles and a half from London, is CLAPHAM, a very agreeable Village.—On the adjacent Common are many neat and pleasantly situated Houses, chiefly inhabited by Citizens, who enjoy a pure Country air, at a convenient Distance from the Center of Business, London.—Here a handsome Church was built in 1776, by the Contribution of the Parishioners; a School-house also was formerly built, for the Education of poor Children.

Passing through BALLAM, situated about one Mile beyond Clapham, and proceeding rather more than a Mile beyond, we arrived at UPPER-TOOTING; a delightful Village.—There is, however, besides its situation, nothing remarkable in it except an Alms-house, built in 1709 by the Mother of Sir John Bateman, Lord Mayor of London, for the Reception of Six poor Women, to be nominated by the Heir of the Family.

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SUTTON

About a Mile and a half, South East, is LOWER TOOTING, not worthy of particular Notice.

Not far from Upper-Tooting, at a Village called MARTIN, or MERTON, Kenulph, King of the West Saxons, was murdered in the House of a Lady, whom he tenderly loved:—It is also celebrated for a stately Abbey, erected here by Henry the First, for the Reception of Canons of the Order of St. Augustin; Part of the Walls remain, but very insufficient to convey an Idea of its ancient Magnificence.

Pursuing our Journey,—about 2 Miles beyond Lower-Tooting, we arrived at MITCHAM, a well inhabited Village, and extremely well situated.—The following Anecdote, curious in its Circumstances, we hope will not be misplaced, —One H. Smith, who, by the Occupation of a Silversmith in London, had acquired a considerable Fortune, formed the strange Resolution of spending the Remainder of his Days as a Common Beggar. He confined his Limits to the County of Surry, where he was known by the Appellation of "Dog Smith;" but having given Offence to an Inhabitant of this Town, he was, by a Justice of the Peace, ordered to be publickly whipp'd. This he resented so much, that he left, at his Death, Fifty Pounds a Year, or One Thousand Pounds in Money, to every Market-Town in the County,—Mitcham excepted.

Here is a Fair on the 12th of August, for Cattle, Toys, &c.

SUTTON,—11 Miles from London, is the first Post Stage.—The Cock, kept by Fuller, is an excellent Inn, where the Traveller may be supplied with good Chaises, and able Horses.—This Village is very pleasantly situated; and the Air is no pure and healthy, that with the additional Inducement of eating the celebrated Banstead-Down Mutton, many of the Citizens of London resort here on Sundays.

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Proceeding over Walton-Heath about 9 Miles beyond Sutton, we came to Reigate-Hill; a remarkably bold Ele∣vation, from whence is a delightful Prospect of the South Downs in Sussex. But, near the Road, (which is scoop'd out of the Hill,) the Declivity is so steep and abrupt, that the Spectator cannot help being struck with Terror, though softened by Admiration.—The Sublime and the Beautiful are here perfectly united; Imagination is fully exercised, and the Mind delighted.

REIGATE, the second Post Stage, is 23 Miles from London.—It is situated in the Vale of Holmsdale, and beautifully surrounded with Hills; is an Ancient Borough by Prescription, and is governed by a Bailiff, chosen annually at the Manor Court.—Here is a handsome Church, a Charity School, and a Market House. This last was, formerly a Chapel, dedicated to Thomas à Becket.—There are also some inconsiderable Remains of a very ancient Castle, in one of the Apartments of which the Barons, who were in Arms against King John, are said to have held their private Meetings.

At the White-Hart the Traveller is certain of meeting with every Accommodation he can wish; good Post-horses, an excellent Larder, genuine Wines, &c. which have rendered Mrs. Sully worthy the Encouragement she meets with.—His ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES, in his Excursions to Brighthelmstone frequently dines here.

A Fair is held at Reigate on Whit-monday; and another on the 14th of September.

In the Reign of King Henry the Third, William Warren, Earl of Surry, founded a Priory of Black Canons, at the bottom of a Hill adjoining to Reigate, which is now a Dwelling-House.

Near Reigate are two Boroughs, GATTON and BLECHINGLEY;—each of which sends two Members to Parliament.

GATTON is a Borough by Prescription; near which Place some Roman Coins have been found.

BLECHINGLEY has nothing particularly remarkable.

We, therefore, proceeded on our Journey 'till we arrived on the Borders of SUSSEX; of which County it may not be improper, before we enter it, to give a short Description.

The Name of SUSSEX is derived from a Word which signified the County of the South Saxons. It is terminated on the North, by Surry; on the East and North East, by Kent; on the South, by the British Channel; and on the West, by Hampshire. Its length is 75 Miles; its breadth 28, and its Circumference 195; containing 1444 square Miles; divided into 6 Rapes or Laths; to each of which, there formerly belonged a Castle, a River, and a Forest. —It is, besides, subdivided into 65 Hundreds, which include 342 Parishes, 1 City, 16 Market-Towns, 1,065 Villages and Hamlets, and has 14, 880 Houses.

The Air of this County is in general wholesome, though to Strangers, it is sometimes productive of Agues. In the North Parts, it is rather foggy, but healthy; and upon the Downs, it is remarkably pure. The hilly Parts are naturally less fertile than the others; but the Vales, and especially the Weald, are highly productive.—The South Downs, from whence is a beautiful prospect, are generally covered with Sheep, remarkable for the fineness of their Wool; a great Quantity of which is too often clandestinely smuggled into France, (notwithstanding the Atten∣tion of the Legislature to this great Object), to the great Injury of the British Woollen Manufactures. The Middle

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Part of the County is beautifully interspersed with Meadows, Pasture Grounds, Woods and Corn Fields; the last of which produce great Abundance of Wheat and Barley. The North Part abounds in Woods, which furnish the Dock-Yards with large Quantities of valuable Timber, and supply the Iron-Works, in the Eastern Part of the County with Charcoal.—The principal Rivers are the Arun, the Adur, the Ouse, and the Rother. The smaller Rivers are the Lavant, the Cuchmeer, the Ashburn, and the Astem. SUSSEX is in the Province of Canterbury, and in the Diocese of Chichester.

CRAWLEY,—31 Miles from London, is the first Town in SUSSEX, which we visited; but not meeting any thing here particularly worthy of Notice, continued our Route 'till we arrived at CUCKFIELD,—40 Miles distant from London.—Here a Fair is held, in September, resorted to by a great Number of pretty rustic Females, and by a multitude of happy Swains.

From Cuckfield to Brighthelmstone, about 14 Miles distant, the Country is chearful, and the Prospects various and extensive.

PRESTON,—1 Mile from Brighthelmstone, is a beautiful Spot, adorned with a great Number of venerable Elms. Preston-House is said to have been the Residence of Anne of Cleves, Consort to Henry the Eighth; from hence she retired to a Convent at Falmer, about 3 Miles distant where she died and was buried.

From hence the bending Sky is seen, at an immeasurable Distance, meeting the Surface of the Ocean, and forming the grand Curve of the sensible Horizon.

From the great Number of human Bones, which have been dug up in the Neighbourhood of Brighthelmstone, we may naturally suppose it to have been the Scene of some great Battle; and, as the Coast of Sussex was certainly the Place where the Belgians often landed, and at last effected a Settlement; there is no doubt but the Ancient Britons had frequent Disputes with them, and that many Battles were fought; one of which, probably, might have been near this Town.

In the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, when the Kingdom was threatened with an Invasion from Spain, this was thought a Place of Importance, and there are yet Remains of a Wall near the Sea, which seems to have been erected about that Time.

When Charles the Second escaped from the Battle of Worcester, he wandered through different Parts of the Kingdom, seeking an opportunity to escape to France; and coming to this Place, attended by Lord Wilmot, and a few other faithful Friends, so disguised, that, without being known by any of the Inhabitants, he was, by means of a fishing Boat, safely landed in France.

Julius Caesar is said to have landed here, in one of his Expeditions against Britain.

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A great number of Druidical Monuments and Altars have been discovered in this Neighbourhood.

BRIGHTHELMSTONE, (one of the most Southern Towns in the County of Sussex) is situated in a Bay, terminated by Beachy-Head; on the East, and by Worthing-Point, on the West. The Stein, at Brighthelmstone, is most beau∣tifully situated: Three Sides of it are formed by very neat and convenient Lodging-Houses, &c.—The fourth is open to the Sea. The rising Downs behind, are a Shelter and Ornament. The white Cliffs are seen trending to the East, as far as Seaforth; and, on the West, the Eye ranges over the Liquid Expanse, and reaches Portsdown-Hill, Spithead, the Eastern Part of the Isle of Wight, &c.

The Marine Pavilion of HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES, on the West Side of the Stein, is a striking Object, and is admirably calculated for the Summer Residence of the Royal Personage for whom it was built; and whose Munificence and Affability endear him to all who are not biassed by Party, blinded by Prejudice, or hostile to dignified Merit. This Pavilion, correctly designed, and elegantly executed, was begun and compleated in five Months.—The Furniture is adapted with great Taste to the Stile of the Building. The grand Saloon is beautifully decorated with Paintings by Rebecca, executed in his best Manner. The toul ensemble of the Building is, in short, perfect Harmony. The Whole was executed by Mr. Holland, under the immediate Inspection and Direction of Mr. Weltjie, whose Attachment to his Royal Master was faithful and disinterested. The Stables belonging to his Royal Highness are built in a Stile of convenient Simplicity, correspondent with that of the other Buildings.

The Bathing Machines are under the Care of the attentive Smoaker. The number of beautiful Women, who every Morning court the Embraces of the Watery God, far exceeds that of any other Bathing Place in the Kingdom.

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The Market is plentifully stocked with all Kinds of excellent Provisions, and culinary Vegetables at a very reasonable Price.

The Theatre is situated in North-Street. The Company of Actors is, in general, very respectable; most of the favourite dramatic Pieces selected from the London Theatres, are performed in the Course of the Season with great Propriety.

There are two excellent Libraries on the Stein, kept by Messrs. Crauford and Dulot; also a good Print-Shop by Mrs. Lay, which with Miss Currie's Shop in North-Street, are the Places of polite Resort. From the various and excellent Assortments of useful and ornamental Commodities at the above Places, Selections are frequently made for a Raffle.

A good Band of Music plays on the Stein, for some Time, twice a Day.—The lovely Throng of Females (in all the Elegance of a light Summer's Dress, woven in Fancy's Loom) who here suffer the Sea Breezes to riot on their Charms, is exceedingly numerous.

In the Town is a Hot, and a Cold Bath.—One Mile out of Town is an excellent Chalybeate Spring, possessing all the Properties of the celebrated Tunbridge Waters.

Of Lodging-Houses, those erected on the Stein, being most beautifully situated, are consequently most expensive; but there are others suitable to Persons of all Ranks and Fortunes.

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At the Rooms,—Whist, and other Clubs meet. Those who prefer Dice may also enjoy their favourite Amusement.

The Wheatears (so called from a corrupted Translation of the French Cul blanc) are taken in great Numbers, on the Downs near Brighthelmstone, during the Summer Months.

The Race Ground is exceedingly well adapted to the Purpose for which it was intended; and is one of the most beautifully situated Spots in the World. The Prospect is wonderfully extensive and magnificent.

The Races are in July.—There are always Three Fifties, besides several Sweepstakes, Matches, &c. A handsome and convenient Stand, sufficiently capacious to receive a great Number of Spectators, is erected on the Course.

At a small Distance from the Race Ground, there was formerly a Roman Station, now called WHITEHAWKE, some Vestages of which, of a circular Form, are still visible.

Four Miles East of Brighthelmstone, is a delightful Village called ROTTINGDEANE; it's Situation on a Cliff, is remarkably bold and striking, and at a convenient Distance to receive the Overflow of Strangers from Brighthelm∣stone, who may, here, be accommodated with Lodgings and Bathing Machines.—The Road which leads to this Village, over the Downs, is extremely pleasant, and the Prospect beautiful.

The Devil's Dyke, (formerly a Roman Encampment,) about 8 Miles North-west of Brighthelmstone, is a won∣derful Situation.—The Prospect from hence is so very extensive that the Eye takes in, successively, a circumference of 100 Miles;—comprehending a great Number of Spires, Towns and Villages.

At HOOVE,—between Brighthelmstone and New Shoreham, are the remains of a Church, which seems to have been, originally, a Structure of great Beauty and Grandeur.

New SHOREHAM,—about 6 Miles from Brighthelmstone Westward, is noted for Ship-building; in which Art the Inhabitants are allowed to excell.

NEWHAVEN,—about 9 Miles East of Brighthelmstone, is situated at the Mouth of the River Ouse; was formerly famous for its safe and commodious Harbour, which is now, unfortunately choaked up with Mud and Sand; but we may expect, that, from the laudable Exertions of the Inhabitants of the Town, it will in Time recover its former Celebrity.

FINIS.