The history of the parishes of Whiteford, and Holywell:

About this Item

Title
The history of the parishes of Whiteford, and Holywell:
Author
Pennant, Thomas, 1726-1798.
Publication
[London] :: Printed for B. and J. White, Fleet Street,
1796.
Rights/Permissions

To the extent possible under law, the Text Creation Partnership has waived all copyright and related or neighboring rights to this keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above, according to the terms of the CC0 1.0 Public Domain Dedication (http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/). This waiver does not extend to any page images or other supplementary files associated with this work, which may be protected by copyright or other license restrictions. Please go to http://www.lib.umich.edu/tcp/ecco/ for more information.

Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/004874860.0001.000
Cite this Item
"The history of the parishes of Whiteford, and Holywell:." In the digital collection Eighteenth Century Collections Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/004874860.0001.000. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 25, 2025.

Pages

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
DOWNING.

〈…〉〈…〉

I NATURALLY begin this little history with the account of Tre Eden Owain, the place where I first made my entrance into this busy world. The principal house in this township, Downing, was built in the year 1627.* 1.1 It certainly had no pretensions to the English name of Downing, which doubtlessly was a corruption from Eden Owain, the Tre or township in which it stands. The founder was John Pennant, son of Nicholas Pennant, a younger son of Hugh Pennant, of Bychton. He married the heiress of the place, and built a house, which was much too large for the estate. The stones were brought from Nant-y-bi, a dingle opposite to the house. There is a tradition, that the stones were rolled along a platform from the top of the quarry, raised on an

Page 2

inclined plane till they reached the building, and there were ele|vated as the work increased in height, till the whole was finished. The house is in form of a Roman H, a mode of architecture very common in Wales at that period. On the front is the pious motto frequent on the Welsh houses, Heb Dduw heb ddim, a duw a dign, which signifies,

Without God there is nothing, with God enough.
There were only four generations of this branch; Thomas, the last, died in 1724, and was buried in Whiteford church, on June 6th of the same year. He bequeathed his estate to my father, who made the house his residence; his own father being living, and the house much better than our paternal.

* 1.2TO pre all disputes about the place and time of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 th, be it known that I was born on June 14th, 1726, old style, in the room now called the Yellow Room; that the celebrated Mrs. Cayn, of Srowsbury, ushered me into the world, and delivered me to Miss Jy Perry, of Merton, in this parish; who to her dying day never failed telling me,

Ah, you rogue! I remember you when you had not a shirt to your back.

* 1.3I WAS, according to antient custom, put out to nurse at a neigh|boring farm-house, called Pentre, covered with thatch, and which at present would be deemed a cottage. My nurse's maiden name was Pennant; and from the time of this great event she re|sumed it, notwithstanding she had long used that of her husband, John Pierce, a freeholder of above a hundred a year. He and she were fond of this charge, which was ever esteemed a peculiar favor and honor. The affection and connection is still retained in many parts of Ireland; but what is unfortunate in more civilized Wales, both seem at present almost extinguished.

Page 3

OF the affection between the foster-father, foster-mother,* 1.4 and foster-brother, the instances were frequent. The fidelity of Robin ap Inko, foster-brother to Jevan ap Vychan, of the house of Gwedir, in the reign of Edward IV. was a most noted one. In a fatal feud between Jevan and his brother-in-law Rys ap Howel, the latter, expecting a fray, provided a butcher to murder Jevan in the confusion of the battle, and to him he gave orders in these terms. The butcher not being acquainted with Jevan, Ap Rys said,

Thou shalt soone discerne him from the rest by his stature, and he will make way before him. There is a foster-brother of his, one Robin ap Inko, a little fellow, that useth to match him behind: take heed of him, for be the encountre never soe hot, his eye is ever on his foster-brother;
—and so it happened. Robin suspected the treachery, and seeing the butcher watching his opportunity, came behind him and knocked him on the head in the moment in which he had come behind Jevan, and had aimed one at that of his beloved foster-brother. The patrimony of his faithful follower was in the parish of Llanderfel; and to this day retains the name of Tyddin Inko.

IN those days there was great competition for the honor of fostering the children of great men.* 1.5 The parson of Llanvrothen near Traeth-mawr, had taken a child of Jevan ap Robert to nurse. This so grieved the wife of Rys (her husband having more land in the parish than Jevan had) that she determined to have the poor parson put to death. A woman was sent to his house, who was kindly taken in. At midnight she set up hideous cries, pre|tending that the parson had attempted to ravish her. This only was a pretence for revenge: the woman had, as the historian says,

Page 4

to her brethren three notable rogues

of the damned crew fit for any mischief, being followers of Howel ap Rys.
These watched the parson, and as he went one morning to look to his cattle, cruelly murdered him; the sequel is told in the Welsh Tour, vol. i. p. 291, and the proper end of the villains.—These extracts are taken from the history of the Gwedir family, a curious pub|lication, for which we are indebted to my true friend the Honor|able Daines Barrington.

WHEN I came into possession of Downing, by the death of my excellent father David Pennant, the house had partly transome, partly sashed windows. By consulting a drawing of it in that state, may be known the changes made by myself. With the estate, I luckily found a rich mine of lead ore, which enabled me to make the great improvements I did. The grounds were much hurt by a vile road running in front and on one side of the house, and through the middle of the demesne, to the hamlet called Gwibnant,* 1.6 or the meandring glen. The house was planted up almost to the door, which gave it a very melancholy gloom. But I soon laid open the natural beauties of the place, and by the friendly exchange Sir Roger Mostyn made with me, enlarged the fine scenery of the broken grounds, the woods, and the com|mand of water. The walks in the near grounds, the fields, and the deep and darksome dingles, are at left three miles in extent, and the dingle not ill united with the open grounds, by a subter|raneous passage under the turnpike road. I am not a little flattered by the admiration of those who visit the place. Mr. Boydel has published a fine engraving of the house among his Welsh feats. I have, as a head-piece to p. 1. of this Work, given it in the prettiest representation.

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
GROUNDS 〈◊〉〈◊〉 DOWNING

Page 5

MY grounds consist of very extensive walks along the fine swelling lands, beneath the shady depth of the glens,* 1.7 or through the contracted meads which meander quite to the shore.* 1.8 The views are various towards the hills, and the antient Pharos on Garreg. Over the channel of the Dee, the Hilbree isles, on one of which had been a cell of Benedictines, dedicated to our Lady, and dependent on Chester and possibly the hermitage called Hilburghey, which in the second of Edward III. received ten shillings a year from a charity belonging to the castle at Chester. The dreary woodless tract of Wiral, a hundred of Cheshire, stretches eastward as far as its capital, chequered with black heaths, and with corn, a bad return to the prospect of our wooded slope; yet formerly was so well cloathed as to give oc|casion to this distich:

From Blacon point to Hilbree A squirrel might leap from tree to tree.
But our sea view is animated with the sight of the numerous fleets entering and sailing out of the port of Liverpool, now swelled into a vast emporium, from (a century and a half ago) a most insig|nificant fishing town.

IN the near view below the house are the ruins of the abbey of Molandina: notwithstanding they are not very considerable, they do not want their beauties. Let me confess that this is a trap for antiquaries, the name derived from Mola being a deserted mill, antiquated by myself as an imposture innocente.* 1.9 Above this is a spreading oak of great antiquity, size, and extent of branches: it has got the name of the Fairy Oak. In this very

Page 6

century a poor cottager, who lived near the spot, had a child who grew uncommonly peevish; the parents attributed this to the fair, and imagined that it was a changeling. They took the child, put it in a cradle, and left it all night beneath the tree, in hopes that the tylwydd têg, or fairy family, or the fairy folk, would restore their own before morning. When morning came they found the child perfectly quiet, so went away with it, quite confirmed in their belief. Shakspeare and Spenser allude to this popular fiction. Spenser is particularly allusive to the above:

And her base elrin breed there for thee left, Such man do changelings call, so chang'd by fairies theft.
Besides this oak is another, on a spot within the pleasure-grounds called Mount Airy. It probably is of superior age to that I have just mentioned; it is truly picturesque, and has in it furrows so deep, and of aspect so uncommonly venerable, as to render its shade as worthy of the solemn rites of the Druids, as those of Mona in its most prosperous days. At a small distance below are three ever|green oaks, of a considerable size; I do not know how they came there, for the wood in my father's time was in a state of nature. Below those is a very antient towering oak of great size; and in a dingle, near the field called the Coxet, is a tree of the same species of great size and beauty, yet retaining the very habit of a vigorous sapling. These and a fine Spanish chesnut are the boast of my Sylvan shades. If I digrese beyond them let me mention a most antient pear-tree, which gives name to a field, Coitia Pren Gellig; the stem has not a relique of sound timber, it consists entirely of
[figure]

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
〈…〉〈…〉

Page 7

rotten wood, yet bears annually most plentiful crops of a choaky pear.

THE house itself has little to boast of.* 1.10 I fortunately found it in|capable of being improved into a magnitude exceeding the reve|nue of the family. It has a hall which I prefer to the rural impro|priety of a paltry vestibule; a library thirty feet by eighteen; a parlor capable of containing more guests than I ever wish to see at a time, Septem, convivium; novem, convicium! and a smoaking-room most antiquely furnished with antient carvings, and the horns of all the European beasts of chace. This room is now quite out of use as to its original purpose. Above stairs is a good drawing-room, in times of old called the dining-room, and a tea-room, the sum of all that are really wanted.—I have Cowley's wish realized, a small house and large garden!

THE library is filled by a numerous collection of books,* 1.11 principally of history, natural history and classics. My own la|bors might fill an ordinary book-room; many of them receive considerable value from the smaller drawings and prints with which they are illustrated on the margins, as well as by the larger intermixed with the leaves; among the latter are several draw|ings of uncommon beauty, by that eminent hand Mr. Nicholas Pococke. These relate either to the Ferroe isles, or to Iceland, others to the distant Tibet or Boutan. I was favored, by John Thomas Stanley, esq with permission to have copies made of the first, and by Warren Hastings, esq of the last. Among my own labors,* 1.12 I value myself on my MS. volumes of THE OUTLINES OF THE GLOBE, in xxii. volumes, folio, on which uncommon expence has been bestowed, in ornament and illuminations.

Page 8

* 1.13IN the hall are some very good pictures by Peter Paou, a fine painter of animals and birds: four express the three cli|mates, two of them are of the Torrid Zone, one the Temperate, and another the Frigid, all illustrated by suitable animals and scenery: the two last have much merit. Besides, there is a romantic view in Otabeite, and another of part of an isle of ice near the Antartic Circle, with three different species of those strange birds the pin|guins, and two different species of the petrels; this was taken from an original sketch made on the spot by Doctor John Rein|hold Forster.

* 1.14THE parlor is filled with numbers of portraits, and other paintings. The greater part of the first are reduced from the originals by Moses Griffith, in a most masterly manner. A few excepted, they are family pictures. A very large one covers the end of the room; the figures are three quarters, and dressed in the manner in which Vandyk did his; the man has a remarkable good look, long hair, whiskers, and small beard: his wife is by him; between them a boy with a basket of flowers, and by him a gre-hound.* 1.15 These represent David Pennant, sheriff of the county in 1643, his wife Margaret Pennant, of Merton, and their eldest son Piers. This piece is done in a superior style, a good imitation of Vandyk. A grand column and a rich carpet is intro|duced, a flattery of the artist, for in those days we were far from being able to pay for even a performance of that value. It pro|bably was done in the troublesome times, when some painter of merit might have wandered about the country, and have been glad of working for his meat and his drink, and some trifle for other necessaries.

Page 9

MY great, great grandfather was an officer in the garrison of Denbigh, when it was besieged and taken by my maternal great, great grandfather general Mytton. My loyal ancestor suffered there a long imprisonment. Bychton was plundered, and the distress of the family so great, that he was kept from starving by force of conjugal affection; for his wife often walked with a bag of oatmeal from the parish of Whiteford to Denbigh to relieve his wants.

NOTWITHSTANDING the zeal of his house for the loyal cause, it suffered very little in respect to the general composition of delinquents; the Bychton estate only paid 42l. 14s. whereas Robert Pennant, of Downing, paid not less than 298 l. for his estate, which was very far inferior to the other. The occasion was this: Robert Pennant had the misfortune to have a hot-headed young fellow in his house, when a small detachment of the adverse party, with a cornet at the head, approached the place. He persuaded the family to resist; the doors were barri|cadoed, a musquet fired, and the cornet wounded. The house was soon forced, and of course plundered; but, such was the mode|ration of the party, no carnage ensued, and the only revenge seems to have been the disproportionate fine afterwards levied.

NOTWITHSTANDING his brother Hugh is not delivered down to us on canvas,* 1.16 I cannot omit the mention of him as a brave and faithful officer in the royal army serving in North Wales. He attained the rank of major, and particularly distinguished himself in the isle of Anglesey. In 1648, that island, in imitation of several of the English counties, rose in order to set the king at liberty, and to restore monarchy to the oppressed kingdom. Numbers of royalists resorted to this island from different parts

Page 10

of North Wales, and made a general muster in the middle of the island, under the command of Thomas lord Bulkeley. The par|lement determined on their reduction, and made Conwy the place of rendezvous. General Myttn was the commanding of|ficer; he landed at Cadnant, where Hugh Pennant was posted, who, after undergoing a severe fire from the rocks and hedges, being left unsupported, was obliged to retreat. Two captains posted at Porth-aethwy, made so speedy a flight, that it was said that one of them at lest had previously received the bribe of 50 l. for his treachery. In the battle which soon after was fought near Beaumaris, Hugh Pennant charged the enemy with great spirit, and was very near taking that brave officer colonel Lo|thian prisoner. Some others of the loyal officers conducted themselves with spirit; but, in general, the islanders are allowed by their own historian, a schoolmaster of Beaumaris, to have be|haved very ill. An Anglesey captain was directed to keep the church: he posted his men in it, locked them safely up, and then ran away with the key in his pocket. The historian tells us, that he was called Captain Church to his dying day. They certainly had great valor at distant danger. As soon as the enemy appeared march|ing over Penmaen-mawr, at lest four miles from Beaumaris, the Anglesey people began to bustle; drums beat, trumpets sounded, and great vollies of small shot and great were discharged; at which the enemy, says the sage pedagogue, took little or no no|tice. Major Pennant was probably taken in Beaumaris castle, with the royal army, to which place it had retired after the de|feat. As soon as he obtained his liberty he resided at Bryn-shone, in the parish of Yskivig, where he died on March 10th, 1669, and was interred at Whiteford.

Page 11

He was married to Margaret Aungier, baroness of Longford, one of the daughters of Sir Thomas Cave, of Slimford, in the county of Northampton, knight. This lady had four husbands; she paid our country the compliment of beginning and ending with a Welshman: her first was Sir John Wynne, of Gwedir, junior, they lived unhappily together, which sent him on his tra|vels into Italy, where he died at Lucca. She then took one of the Milesian race, for she married Sir Francis Aungier, master of the rolls in Ireland, afterwards created baron of Longford. Thirdly, she gave her hand to an Englishman, Sir Thomas Wenman, of Oxfordshire; and, finally, she resigned her antiquated charms to our valiant major, who in the year 1656 deposited her with his ancestors, in the church at Whiteford.

THE next is a single figure, a half-length of Pyers,* 1.17 son of David Pennant, with long hair, a long laced cravat, and in a singular gown. His wife is in another frame, a handsome woman, with her neck naked, and long tresses flowing on each side. She was one of the celebrated seven sisters of the house of Gwysanney, near to Mold, who were all married about the same time, and all became widows, and of them only two of them renewed the nuptial vow. These ladies being much talked of, even to this day, I add their names, and those of their spouses. Let me premise that they were daughters of Robert Davies, by Anne, eldest daughter of Sir Peter Mutton, knight, chief justice of North Wales, and owner of Llanerch, in the vale of Clwyd.

  • ...Anne, their first daughter, married John Thelwall, of Plascoch.
  • ...Katherine, Pyers Peant, of Bychton.
  • ...

Page 12

  • ...Dorothy, married George Hope, of Doddleston.
  • ...Elizabeth, Thomas Humphries, of Boddlewiddan.
  • ...Margaret, John Holland, of Tyrddan.
  • ...Ellen, George Wynne, of Leeswood.
  • ...Jane, Thomas Edwards, of Rhual.

Pyers Pennant, who occasioned this notice, died in 1623.

I CANNOT well ascertain the next portrait, which is of a hand|some young man, in long hair, flowing and curling gracefully on his shoulders. He is dressed in the military dress of the time, a laced turn-over, and an elegant buff coat, much ornamented, and a musket with an aukward old lock in his hand, and a sword by his side. I suspect him to have been a son of Pyers Pennant, who was slain the ill-conducted expedition to the isle Rhi, under the duke of Buckingham, in 1627. He probably was in the company of his neighbor captain Richard Mostyn, a younger son of Mostyn, who fell in the same spot.

* 1.18THE portrait of my grandfather, Peter Pennant, represents, what I well remember him to have been, a fine person, and of a jovial complexion. He is dressed in a white tye-wig, and a red coat. On the death of his first wife, Catherine, second daughter of the Wynnes, of Glynne, in Merionethshire, he went into the army in the reign of Queen Anne, and served at the siege of Brussels. Disgusted with his colonel, Sir Thomas Prendergast, after demanding satisfaction, which Sir Thomas declined, he re|signed, and passed the remainder of his days at Bychton; where he lived in great hospitality, and died in October 1736, aged 72.

Page 13

HIS uncle, John Pennant, in a full brown wig,* 1.19 and brown gwn. By his jolly rubicund face he appears to have been a thoough bon-vivant, yet with much the air of the gentleman. The original, a well painted picture, was given to us by John Wynne, of Coperleney, in this neighborhood, who, by the in|scription on the back, seems to have taken as much pride in being thought the friend of John Pennant, as Sir Fulke Grevil did in being the friend of Sir Philip Sydney. Many a bottle had they emptied during their thirty years friendship. He resided at Chelsea, where my father often visited him during the boyish holydays. My father told me he was frequently taken by him to the coffee-house, where he used to see poor Richard Cromwell, a little and very neat old man, with a most placid countenance, the effect of his innocent and unambitious life.

I IMAGINE that the coffee-house was Don Saltero's, to which he was a benefactor, and has the honor of having his name in|serted in the catalogue. I have, when a boy, seen his gift to the great Saltero, which was a lignified hog. I fear that this matchless curiosity is lost, at left it is omitted in the last, or 47th edition of the catalogue.—What author of us can flatter himself with delivering his works down to posterity, in im|pressions so numerous as the labors of Don Saltero?

John Pennant died in 1709, aged 69, and was interred in the church-yard of Chelsea, and had a small monument to his memo|ry erected against the wall of the church, by his wife, daughter to Mr. Parry, of Merton, a house and small estate which we now possess, above a mile from Downing. Her affection pro|vided

Page 14

the following epitaph, which I give more on that account, than for the excellency of the composition.

* 1.20Near this place, under a stone with his name on it, lies the body of John Pennant, gent. second son of David Pennant, of Bichton, in the county of F••••••,esq who departed this life the 5th of June, 1709, aged 69. In whose memory this monument was erected, by his mournful widow, who designs to be interred in the same grave: Had virtue in perfection power to save The best of men from the devouring grave, Pennant had liv'd; but 'tis in vain to flie The fatal stroke, where all are doom'd to die. Farewel, lov'd spouse; since want of words appears T' express my grief, I'll moan thy loss with tears, Which like Nle's cataracts shall rumble down, And with their briny floods my passion drown, Here may thy ashes undisturb'd remain, Till thy wife's dust re-visits thee again; Then sacred quiet, till the day of doom Seal the enclosure of our catacomb.

His arms are those of the Pennants. Her's those of Edwyn, lord of Tegengle.

* 1.21ANOTHER of my kindred lies in Pancras church-yard. I may be excused for mentioning him, as his epitaph is far from inele|gant. This youth, Robert Pennant, was son to Pierce Pennant by Katherine, one of the seven sisters of Gwysanney, and was snatched away at the age of twenty-four, in the year 1639. He was at|tended to his grave, as was then the custom, by a most numerous set of friends, among whom were the two bishops, and numbers of

Page 15

the first gentry of North Wales, who happened then to be in town. Thus is delivered his amiable character:

Gentilibus suis compositus Robertus Pennant, Filius 2dus l'yercei Pennant, de Bychton, In Com. Flint, Arm. Et Katherinae, sororis Roberti Davies, Hic reconditus. Qui cum omnia obiisset munera Juvenem quae suis charum reddere poterant Febre Londini correptus, Desideratus aeque ac notus decessit Aetatis A 24. M.DC.XXXIX.

MY worthy father was painted at the age of fifteen,* 1.22 most aukwardly in a long flowing wig. He was brought up at Thistleworth, under Creech, the translator of Lucretius; after that his education was neglected, but he was abnormis sapiens, and of the best of hearts. He passed a useful and worthy life to a good old age; and departed, with every expression of piety and resigna|tion, on January 1st, 1763, aged 78.

MY good and religious mother is painted in oil,* 1.23 over the chimney-piece; she is dressed in blue, her neck naked, her tresses auburn, long, and flowing. The painter was Mr. Fellowes, an artist of some merit, who lived at Wrexham and Chester. She was called a beauty, 'in spite of her teeth,' which were not good. She was third daughter of Richard Mytton, Esq of Halston (see Tour in Wales, i. p. 246) one of fifteen children, by Arabella, eldest daughter of Sir John

Page 16

Houblon, lord mayor of London in 1695, lord of the admiralty in the time of King William, and the first governor of the bank of England. See more of his history in my account of London, p. 455. I have often been assured by some of my aunts, that (with their father and mother) they had often danced to the number of eight couple. My mother was born September 6th, 1689, and married to my father December 24th, 1724. The courtship was carried on at Wynn-stay, and the nuptials per|formed at the neighboring church of Rhiwabon. That good man Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, in a frolic, jumped on the box, and drove the bride and bridegroom to the church-door. This excellent woman died in London of the small-pox, in the year 1744. She, near to her dying moment, called me to the bed-side, and presented me with her silver etwee, and looked as if she could have delivered her tender adieu in the Augustan style (which I engraved on it) VIVE MEMOR AMORIS NOSTRI, ET VALE!

* 1.24THE portrait of my venerable aunt, Elizabeth Pennant, was drawn in water colors, in her old age, by Moses Griffith, and does him much credit. It is a very strong likeness, dressed in the old fashion, with a long white handkerchief flung carelessly over her cap; the countenance shews the goodness of her heart. I speak gratefully of a friend, who doated on me and mine. I lost this valuable woman October 2d, 1775; who, with all the con|sciousness of a well-spent life, quitted the earthly stage with the utmost tranquillity.

* 1.25MY respected uncle John Mytton, of Halston, born Septem|ber 11th, 1690, closes the list of relations. His countenance in|dicates

Page 17

the sweet disposition he possessed, and ll his features are amiable. His dress, a grey tye-wig, a blue coat, with a scarlet mantle flung over one arm. He was bred a merchant, and spent much of his time in Portugal; but succeeding his eldest brother Richard in his estate, retired to Halston, where he ended his benevolent life.

I MUST not forget a shade of my affectionate uncle James Mytton, fifth son of the same house, and brother to the last,* 1.26 the kind friend of my youth, with whom I lived long, and strove, to the best of my power, to reap from him every advantage that his good sense, good heart, and polished manners, wished to instil into my susceptible mind.

I CONCLUDE the accounts of the portraits of our family with my own, in a Vandyk dress, by Mr. Willes, an ingenious artist, who afterwards quitted the pencil and obtained holy orders, to which he did no discredit.

Moses Griffith furnished this room with other reduced por|traits. That from the fine picture of Sir Roger Mostyn, knight,* 1.27 (of whom more will be said when I arrive at the house) is an admirable performance.

SUPERIOR even to the portrait of Sir Roger Mostyn is that of Humphrey Lloyd, taken from the original, on board,* 1.28 in possession of the Reverend John Lloyd, of Aston, in Shropshire. This illus|trious person was senator, philosopher, historian, and physician. He represented the town of Denbigh, in 1653. He is celebrated also as an accomplished gentleman, eloquent, and an excellent rhetorician. Camden speaks of his great skill in the antiquities of his country. He married a sister of John lord Lumley: and

Page 18

formed his brother-in-law's library, which now is the most va|luable part in the British Museum. He died in 1658, aged 41. He is painted with short reddish hair, rounded beard, and whiskers, a short quilled ruff, black dress, and a triple gold chain; on one side of him are his arms and crest; beneath is this motto:

HWY PERY KLOD NA GOLYD.
Fame is more lasting than wealth.
On the other side is the following inscription:
Aetatis 34. A. Di. 1561. Vera effigies incliti Artium Professoris, earumque dumni Humfredi Lloyd, Cambro-Britanni et Denbighensis, ortus antiqu Rsndalorum familiâ; qui floruit temporibus Mariae et Elizabeth beata memoria regin. Obiitq. An. Di. 156, et cum patribus in ecclesia parochiali de Denbigh sepultus.
He was buried at Whichchurch, near Denbigh, with a very neat monument. He is represented kneeling at an altar beneath a range of small arches, and dressed in a Spanish habit.

* 1.29THIS is over the chimney-piece; above him is the portrait of Sir John Wynne, knight, who died on his travels at Lucca, in 1614. (It is taken from the original at Wynn-stay.) He was buried there, in the parish of St. John's. I have seen numbers of his letters, which shew him to have been a most observant man. He was eldest son of Sir John Wynne, of Gwedir. He is in black, has a large ruff, laced turn-over, and others at his wrists, a white girdle stuck with points, and a white belt passing over his shoulders and breast. His countenance is good, his hair short and dark, his beard small and peaked.

Page 19

THE next is opposite to the other,* 1.30 a head of Sir Richard Wynne, baronet, grandson to old Sir John, and last of the male line.

ABOVE Sir John Wynne is a very fine head of Charles I. by Vandyk. He is elegantly dressed in a red jacket,* 1.31 slashed and laced. This was purchased at the sale of the late colonel Nor|ton, of Southwick, in Hampshire, by my worthy friend the late Pusey Brooke, esq and gratefully presented by him to the late Mr. Edwards, of Brynford, to whom he lay under obligations. It was on his death presented to my father, and decreed to re|main an heir-lome in the family.

OPPOSITE to Charles I. is another Charles,* 1.32 great grandson to the unfortunate monarch. It is a head in oil-colors, after the original by Hussey. He was a man uncommonly handsome: his fine brown hair is tied behind, and curled on the sides; his body and arms are clad in armor. In the field he certainly took too great care of his person, but I believe the armor to have been the painter's choice. His highness had given him|self the two orders, for both the blue and the green ribbon grace his shoulders.

THIS picture was originally the property of the late Sir William Meredith, baronet. He suddenly veered from the Stuart to the Brunswick line; and thinking it unsafe to have a Stuart, even in canvas, presented it to my very worthy mother-in-law, Elizabeth Falconer, a true votary of exiled royalty. On her death, the choice of any of her personality having been, in the most friendly manner, offered by her son the Rev. James Falconer, D. D. I fixed on this. The period of Jacobitism was over; but I re|member

Page 20

the time in which I might have been struck out of the commission for having in my possession even the shadow of disaffection.

* 1.33ANSON, the persevering ANSON, graces the lower end of the room: a head painted when he was a captain, before the year 1742, when he began his celebrated voyage. This was the bequest of my uncle James Mytton, who well knew the respect I had to the two illustrious brothers of Shugborough. Lord ANSON was for|tunate, but his good fortune was the result of merit, not of chance. During his naval administration, and during that more arduous one under John earl of SANDWICH, the commerce of BRITAIN in every part was uninterrupted! our colonies protected! our acquisitions secured! and, in the latter war, when we had all the world to combat, our squadrons were every where! The superior genius of the man disposed our fleets so as to gain all those advantages, without neglecting, without weakening the domestic safety of BRITAIN, which must ever acknowlege his salutary strength of mind, and bury his foibles in oblivion. His blemishes were those of the private man: his high qualities, public benefits. In his active days

No navies yawn'd for orders on the main.

* 1.34I HAVE very few other pictures. I may boast of an admirable head of Frobenius, the printer of the celebrated Erasmus, by Holbein; it is exactly the same with that of Hatfield. (See Journey to London, p. 408.) I will repeat what I said respecting that illus|trious typographer. He is dressed in a black gown, lined with for. Frobenius was a native of Franconi, but settled at Bazil, in

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
DOWNING. —Published in the Act 〈…〉〈…〉 1796. by 〈◊〉〈◊〉

Page 21

Switzerland, of which city he became a citizen. He was a man of considerable learning, and the finest printer of his time. Erasmus resided a long time with him, attracted by his personal merit, and his admirable skill in his profession; for to him we are indebted for the most beautiful edition of the works of his illustrious friend. Frobenius died in 1527, and was honored by the same hand with two epitaphs, one in Greek, the other in Latin.

THE next is a small half-length on copper of Saint Charles Bor|romeo, praying before a crucifix.* 1.35 That illustrious prelate was an ornament to his church. He is represented in his car|dinal's dress, with a wan and meagre countenance, the effects of his sincere austerities. Those alone ought not to have given him a place in the kalendar: his genuine piety, his benevolence, his great deeds of charity, furnished him with the fullest clame. Add to this, his courage in facing the pestilence which raged in Milan, his native city, in all its horrors. He administered to the distressed every comfort, spiritual and temporal. Like

Mar|seilles's good bishop,
he escaped, and received his heavenly re|ward November 3d, 1584.

Or unknown portraits I have two. One is of an officer,* 1.36 I think by de Gelder, a pupil of Rembrandt's. It is much in the style of his master. The figure is standing, with a good military coun|tenance. In one hand is a long sword, the point resting on the floor; on his head is a hat and feathers; his body is armed to the waist; below are long skirts of buff; his helmet is on a barrel, the colors-furled, and rests against the wall; his shield and war-saddle near them. De Gelder was born in 1645, and died in 1727.

Page 22

THE other is of a Low Country soldier; a small full length; a most graceful figure of a young man leaning on a chair, with an emptied glass in one hand, and on the floor a flagon, and near is his white hat and feathers; his hair long; he is in a buff coat, a broad leathern belt, with a cloak flung carelessly over one arm; he has vast boots, and a long sword hanging down from his side.

A SMALL, but neat inside of a Flemish church; and a fine painting of a white grous, hung by one foot from a tree, with some plants near the foot. These are all the paintings I can boast of. The last is by Rysbrack, a painter born at Antwerp about the middle of the last century.

I MAY conclude with a very neat drawing by Moses Griffith, of the antient gardens of Llanerch, in the Italian taste of the middle of the last century, made by Mr. Mutton Davies, after his return from Italy; they were fine (in that style), decorated with water|works, statues, dials, &c. &c. emitting water, to the astonishment of the spectators. The original of the drawing is from an old large picture in my possession.

* 1.37Downing may boast of a good and numerous collection of fossils and minerals, partly collected by myself, partly by my son in his extensive travels; many of the specimens are elegant, and most of them instructive.

* 1.38ABOVE a mile from Downing is Tyddyn Ucha', a farm-house belonging to our family. In the last century it was inhabited by my grandfather, during the life-time of his father. My uncle John Pennant, and two of my aunts, were born there. I have often heard it said, with pride, that once three baronets were

Page 23

entertained there by the hospitable owner. I vehemently suspect, from the size of the house, that at lest two of them must have slept together.

MY father has often told me a ridiculous story of the effect of a jolly evening passed there by some of the convivial neigh|bors. They had made very free with some ale which had been brewed with malt made of soul barley, unfortunately mixed with the seeds of certain plant, which brought on a temporary blind|ness. The guests had not gone far before the symptoms seized them, and they were led back to their host, who was in the same condition. They were suddenly alarmed with a violent scream in a female voice. It seems that the butleress, or female butler, had, in her repeated visits to the cellar, sipped too plentifully of the cwrw, and, terrified with the effect, betrayed herself by giv|ing unguardedly full vent to her fears.

IN those days the neighbors were much addicted to terming,* 1.39 i. e. brewing a barrel of ale at some favorite ale-house, and stay|ing there till it was all drunk out. They never went to bed, even should the term last a week; they either slept in their chairs or on the floor, as it happened, then awoke and resumed their jollity. At length, when the barrel was exhausted, they reeled away, and the hero of this Bacchanalian rout always carried the spiggot in triumph. Coursing was very frequently the occasion of these terms; each gentleman brought his gre-hound, and often made matches, more for the glory of producing the best dog, than for the value of the bet.

AT half a mile distance, south of this house, stands Merton,* 1.40 in the township of Merton Uwch Glan; I gave it the addition of

Page 24

Abbot, to distinguish it from the many others of the same name. It was built in the year 1572, and for the time was a tolerable house. This and the Holywell estate was conveyed into our family by the marriage of David Pennat with Katherine Pennant, daughter and sole heiress of John Pennant, of Holywell, and Mary, daughter of Thomas ap Thomas ap Edward, of Merton. John was fourth in descent from Nicholas Pennant, last abbot of Basingwerk, and son of Thomas ap David, &c. &c. his predecessor in the abbotship. David Pennant, who made this valuable acquisition, died in 1666; Katherine survived him till the year 1700. This was the only marriage that added much to our estate since the time of Madoc ap Thomas ap Meiiir, who sat down at Bychton with the heiress of Philip O' Phicdan, hereafter to be mentioned.

THE two Mertons, Uwch Glan and Is Glan, are adjacent town|ships. They were, at the time of compiling the Doomsday Book, undivided, and known by the Saxon name of Meretone, or the township bordering over the sea.

* 1.41THE noblemen of Tegengl drew up a memorial, which they presented to John Peckham, archbishop of Canterbury, containing, among numbers of other grievances, the wrong done to the men of Merton. The archbishop (whom in 1281 came down on the christian design of reconciling the differences between Edward I. and Llewelyn) seemed to pity their sufferings; but it it not pro|bable that the king paid any attention to their representations, as he was then in full march against our gallant countrymen, de|termined to make an effectual conquest of an enemy who gave him so much serious disturbance.

Page 25

ABOVE three hundred yards from my house,* 1.42 on the opposite side of a dingle, stands another Downing, the seat of my worthy neighbor and friend Thomas Thomas, esq His good father came into possession of it about the year 1749, by marriage with Miss Mary Lloyd, heiress of the place, and descended from Edwyn, prince or lord of Tegengl. His Llys or palace was near Northop. My much-lamented friend the Reverend John Lloyd, of Caerwys, was of opinion that the fat figure on one of the tomb-stones in Northop church, represented this chieftain.

MR. Thomas was of Llechweddgarth in Montgomeryshire.* 1.43 (See Tour in Wales, ii. 349) descended from Brochwel Yscythrog, prince of Powis, who bore sable three nags heads erased argent. Before Mr. Thomas's arrival, a fierce feud raged between the two houses, as usual in days of yore; which, on his appearance, was changed into lasting peace. I cannot but mention a cruel revenge which the Montagues used to take on their neighbor Capulet, by the advantage of a stream which ran through their grounds in its way to our kitchen, where it was applied to the purpose of a jack for the turning of a spit. How often has that important engine been stopped before it had performed half its evolutions! our poor Capulet swearing, lady crying, Cogess fuming, and nurse screaming! But

To hear the children mutter, When they lost their bread and butter, It would move a heart of stone.

IN the footway to Bychton is the wood,* 1.44 the Sylva mentioned in the Doomsday Book. At the time of that compilation it was

Page 26

valued at 20 s. only. Possibly the value did not increase greatly in the beginning of the sixteenth century, when my ancestor, Hugh Pennant of Bychton (eighteenth in descent from their common stock) married Jonet, daughter of Richard ap Howel, of Mostyn, who led his troops to Bosworth Field. Tradition says, that (money being wondrous scarce in those days) he was offered this wood as a portion with the lady; which our family rejected, as of no value in a country of forests. I cannot estimate the thousands it would have been worth at present, or in course of time.

* 1.45IN this wood are the remains of some antient Llys, or palace, as my friend, the late antiquary of Cherwys, used to maintain. I can only say, that to judge of the foundations, our palaces in those days were not very splendid.

* 1.46THE line of Tudor Trevor, with all its branches, is so fre|quently spoken of, that I shall here continue his descent. He was son of Yger ap Cadvarch, earl of Hereford, in right of his wife Rhiengar, daughter and heir of Llwdocea ap Karadoc Vreichvras, or the earl of Hereford, grandson to the said Karadoc, and great-grandson to Karadoc Vreichvras, earl of Hereford and Marchiogen, in the time of prince Arthur, and who had besides the honor of being one of the knights of the rou ble. Tudor married Angbarad, daughter to Howel Dda, prince of Wales, renowned for his wise laws, who quitted his government and retired to Rome, and there died in 948, whose death was sore bewailed of all men,

for he was a prince that loved peace and good order, and that feared God.
I am sorry to deprive our ancestor of his title of earl: the Welsh had none such among them. Our great

Page 27

men had that of Arglwydd or Lord, and the chief or monarch that of T'wisog or Prince. Tudor had in right of his mother immense possessions in Herefordshire, and in all that country, then called Ferlys, which lies between the Wye and the Severn. He was also lord of Whittington, in Shropshire (See Tour in Wales, i. p. 250.) and made that castle his residence. Let me observe that many of his estates, being in the marches of Wales, he was called of the Tribe of March, to distinguish him from the other tribes.

THE families descended from this chieftain were exceedingly numerous, but those still existing in the male line are only the following: Thomas Trevor Hampden viscount Hampden, Richard Pennant Lord Penrhyn, Sir Roger Mostyn, and the Mostyns of Bryngwyn, of Segrwyd, branches of his family, and Sir Pyers Mostyn, Eytons of Eyton, Wynnes of Gwerninvawr, Jones's, of Llwynon, and Jeffries's, of Acton, existing in my friend the Rev. Dr. Jeffries, residentiary of St. Paul's, and worthy Rector of Whiteford, and the Pennants of Bychton.

ADJACENT to this wood is my paternal seat,* 1.47 I may say the primaeval seat of our family. The date, on a piece of wood over an added window, is 1572. This gives an idea of the house of a gentleman of middling estate in those days. There was a much more antient date on a beam in the barn, which was inadver|tently destroyed when I new built it. I lived at this seat in 1761 and 1762; at that time I recollect buying of the tenant, who with great civility quitted it to me, his stock of wheat at 2 s. the hobbet, consisting of two measures, of forty-one quarts each.

Page 28

LET me contrast this to a year of scarcity in our country, that of 1637, when I find, by a diary kept by a Peter Roberts, of St. Asaph, that in the same year wheat was sold at 21 s. the hobbet, rye at 15 s. and vetches at 11 s. Change this into the present value of silver, the hobbet of wheat at this time would be equal to 29 s. of barley to 20 s.d. and vetches to 15 s.d. —a calculation for which I am indebted to the ingenuity of my good assistant, the Rev. Mr. Henry Parry, of Holywell.

* 1.48VERY near to the house stood a summer-house, (a building very frequent near the seats of Welsh gentry) with a cellar be|neath. These were used as retreats for the jovial owners and their friends, to enjoy, remote from the fair, their toasts and noisy merriment. Mine was so near to ruin, that I was obliged to pull it down. I remember oaks of a vast size growing near to the house. This, and I may say the other lower parts of the parish, are finely wooded with that noble species of tree, which grows spontaneously: was this part deserted, it would relapse into its original state, and become an impenetrable forest.

* 1.49NOW let the whole Welshman arise in me! Let me relate how Madoc ap Meiler (surnames were not as yet) ap Thomas ap Owen ap Blydden ap Tudor ap Rhys Sais ap Ednesyd ap Llowarch Ga ap Llyddocca, fil. primogen. TUDOR TREVOR, living A.D. 924. (miscalled) earl of Hereford, cotemporary with the great king Athelstan, and the greater Edwal Voel, prince of Wales, did take lawful possession of Alice, daughter and heir of Philip o Phicdan, by Margaret, daughter and heir of Dafydd ap Ririd, &c. &c. of Penley in Maelwr. This Philip o Phicdan was son (See Har|lcian Library, No 1792.) to Philip ap Yswittan Wyddel, of the

Page 29

house of Dungannon, in Ireland, one of the Irish cavaliers who followed Gryffydd ap Conan out of that island, to assist him to re|gain the throne of his ancestors, about the year 1077, usurped by Trahaern ap Caradog.

THE great and decisive victory on the mountains of Carno, in the county of Montgomery, in the same year, was owing to the valor of Philip. The usurper was defeated and slain, after the bloodiest contest in our annals. Gryffydd was reinstated in his lawful dominions, and reigned with great dignity during fifty-seven years. He was not ungrateful to his Milesian general; he bestowed on him great possessions in his new-recovered domi|nions * 1.50, of which one of his sons inherited Bychton. It remained in the male line only one generation after Yswittan, as we have above said. If we reckon thirty years to a generation, the match between Madoc ap Meiler and Alice must have taken place very early in the next century, if not in the same. This gives us a pri|ority of landed possession in the parish of Whiteford to any other freeholder: Madoc being only tenth in descent from Tudor Trevor.

THIS my ancestor Madoc probably lived also by the sword, for I cannot with any certainty prove that before this time he had any landed property. I presume he was content with his acqui|sition of the fair Alice, and the Bychton estate (not Putecaine, as the barbarous Normans made it in the Doomsday Book) at which period (Widfor, i. e. Whiteford) was terra unius carucae, et ibi erat cum duobus villanis et XII. inter servos, et an|cilla ibi piscaria, and Sylva, or the wood above mentioned. But I fear we had been long before robbed of the wood at lest, and

Page 30

possibly of our piscaria, &c. either by our own countrymen or the tyrant Saxons. Madoc sat down quietly on his lands; his offspring seem to have been much respected, for his son Jerwerth married the daughters of two princes; his first wife was daughter of Owen, lord of Tegangl, and his second the daughter of the lord of Allington and Ruthenland. We went on begetting sons and daugh|ters for a long space. My son may boast of being sixteenth in descent from the great Madoc, or twenty-fifth from Tudor Trevor; where, for brevity sake, I take up the pedegree, otherwise I might reach the renowned Krda Wlodig, after passing through five most celebrated descents.

* 1.51Madoc assumed the arms of Yswitan Wyddel, his wife's grand|father, viz.

Fyelde silver three barres wavey azure, on the mydle barr three shieldrakes of the fyrste,
and for his next coat, by the name Philip Phichdan, 'three boars in palle silver;' these are so defined, and placed quarterly by that able genealogist John Charles Brooke, esq Somerset herald, whose untimely end I find daily reason to deplore. The three boars were the arms of Yona ap Grwy, of Penley in Mawr hundred, in the county of Flint. My father had some small possessions in that country, which he sold to improve our estate nearer home. Those pro|bably were derived from Philip Phicdan, and devolved to Madoc on his marriage with his daughter Alice.

I OBSERVE that the descendants of Yswyctn Wyddel varied in their first coat. Margaret, one of the daughters, and heiress of David ap Kynric, ap Philip Phycdan, bose in a white field two sesses azure, and in each the three shieldrakes. She married William Salusbury, of Llewenni, (says the Salusbury Pedegree,

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]

Page 31

p. 14. b.) who served in parlement for the borough of Leominster in the sixth of Edward III. and several other parlements as late as that of the thirty-eighth of the same prince.

THE family assumed afterwards their proper arms, those of Tudor Trevor. In the year 1580, a patent for a crest, the an|telope's head most strangely disfigured with heraldic liberty, was granted to Pyers Pennant, one of the four gentlemen-ushers to Queen Elizabeth, and to the posterity of his father Hugh Pennant. In this patent, which I have in high preservation, the first coat is that of the Trevors,

the fyelde party par bend, sinister ermen, and ermyne, a lion rampant goulde, langued and armed gules.
The two next are as described above, and the fourth by the name of Gruffydd Lloyd,
the fyelde azure three flower-de-luces of the fyelde:
and such is the dictum of Robert Cooke, alias Clarentieux, ROV D'ARMES, 1580.

THE Mostyns of Mostyn bear as their crest, a lion rampant.

THE Trevors, who were the Pen-cenedl, or head of the whole line, had for their crest the wivern or dragon on a cap of dignity. The present Lord Hampden is its true Pen-cenedl; but by heraldic rules, on the descent of the Hampden estate to his lordship, from the alliance of his ancestor Sir John Trevor with the Hampdens, the talbot, the crest of that family, supersedes the antient dragon.

THE dragon was worn as a cogniance by all our princes, particularly by Cadwaledr, who died in 688. It was adopted by Henry VII. who clamed descent from him, and wore it in he battle of Bosworth. It took its origin from the legend of Uther Pen-dragon, father of king Arthur, who is said to have received

Page 32

the addition of Pen-dragon, from his wearing that imaginary ani|mal on his helmet.

OUR bards united with the poet the office of herald. At first our pedegrees were preserved by oral communication; after|wards committed to writing, and preserved in the houses of our great men. The heralds office is at present a great repository of these kinds of treasure.

BY the first we are assured of many other illustrious descents from princes' ancestors to our Tudor Trevor; from the princes of Powis; from Rywalbon Conwyn, (who, with his brother Kynric, were joint princes of North Wales;) from even Roderic the Great, and from Cadwaladr; and finally from Vortigern, the un|fortunate king of the Britons, who fled from the rage of his subjects, for his invitation of the Saxons into Britain, and died in|gloriously about the year 465, in the darksome Nant y Gwrtheyrn, in the county of Caernarvon * 1.52.

THE English heralds attempt to add fame to our race, by telling us that the present Sir Roger Mostyn is nineteenth in de|scent from the Conqueror, from John of Gaunt, from Richard Plantagenet, duke of York, father to Edward IV. I leave Arthur Collins, (vol. iii. p. 129, 131) to adduce the proofs. Why will my ingenious countrywoman, after admitting these honors † 1.53, deny to us BIRTH, by distinction fine as ether, and as imper|ceptible, allowing us only the advantage of family! And, not|withstanding the lady's justly-favored Johnson makes birth and lineage synonymous, yet my cousin will allow us no more of the former than what that great writer defines the

act of coming

Page 33

into the world,
the act which graced our country with its fair synonymist.

I HOPE the reader will not think me too warm, for thus vin|dicating my clame to birth, in common with my worthy brother-in-law. I am jealous that the honors which I possess by means of our marriage with his aunt Shonet, ten ascents higher, should receive any abatement: and I trust that the lady concerned will, as a Welsh-woman, even applaud my warmth on so very interest|ing an occasion!

OUR house has always been the Pen-cenedl, or chief of the name. We had several branches, all which, excepting those I have enumerated, are extinct in the male line; unless it be in the gentleman who of late years spread our celebrity in the capital, under the title of Pennant's Parcel Post.

THE first who branched from us was the hospitable, the useful, the valiant Thomas Pennant, abbot of Basingwerk, son of David Pennant ap Tudor, before mentioned. He flourished in the reign of Edward IV. and is highly celebrated by Guttun Owain, a bard of the year 1480, who records the hospitality of the abbot, in a poem printed in the collection of Mr. Rhŷs Jones. The poet is so liberal of his praise as to say, That he gave twice the treasure of a king in wine.

Er bwrw yno aur brenhin Ef a roes deufwy ar wîn.

And among his other luxuries I think he enumerates sugar, which a rich abbot of the fifteenth century might easily indulge

Page 34

himself in, for it had been a great article of commerce in Sicily as early as the year 1148.

Guttun Owain also adds:

Tŷ da i'r ŷd, o'r tu draw. Tŷ brâg sydd, Tŷ bics iddaw.
A good granary on the other side, a malt-house, and a house of bricks: which last was probably a material in building of recent introduction in our country.

Guttun Owain and Tudor Aled, another noted bard, speak not only of his works of utility; of the water and of the wind-mills he erected; of his having enlarged and beautified the abbey, but also compliment him on his prowess in battle. Neither is Guttun silent on a subject, pleasing to every Welsh ear, the pedegree of his patron, whom he derives from Edwyn, and from Rhŷs Sais, a direct descendant from Tudor Trevor.

IT is probable that our abbot discovered that celibacy did not suit his constitution. He quitted his profession, and became (in the law term) a monk deraigne, and married into the great house of Peurbyn, a lady of the name of Angharad. He became the father of four children. Of them, Edward the eldest succeeded to the fortunes which he seems to have secured in the parish of Holywell. Thomas, the second son, became vicar of Holywell. And Nicholas, the third, in due time abbot of Basingwerk; he was the last, and became founder of a family, as I shall have occasion to mention. More also will be said of the line of Edward, who may be considered as the first of the house of Bagilt.

WE did not assume the name of Pennant, till the time of David Pennant ap Tudor, fifteenth in descent from Tudor Trevor; it is a

Page 35

true Welsh name, taken from Pen, a head, and Nant, a dingle, our house of Bychton being seated at the head of a very consider|able one. The name is very common in North Wales, applied to places, such as Pennant St. Melangl, Pennant Mowddwy, Pennant Lliw, &c. &c. I have found it in Cornwal, and again in the great bay of Douarnenez, in Bretagne, where, among numbers of other Welsh names, is that of Pointe Pennant.

IT has been delivered down to us,* 1.54 that in some distant time a gang of gipsies used to haunt this dingle, and that eighteen of them were executed, after which the gipsey race never more fre|quented the neighborhood. I cannot learn their crime, possibly there was none, for they might have been legally murdered by the cruel statute of the 1st and 2d of Philip and Mary, which enacts,

that if, within forty days next after proclamation of this present act shall be made, that then he or they which shall not depart and avoid within the said time of forty days, according to the true meaning of this act, shall be judged and deemed, ac|cording to the laws of this realm of England, a felon and felons, and shall suffer therefore pains of death, loss of lands and goods as in other cases of felony, and shall be tried as is aforesaid, and without having any benefit or privilege of sanctuary or clergy.
Sir Matthew Hale tells us, that in Suffolk, a few years before the restauration, were executed, at a single assizes, not less than thirteen; but none, on that barbarous law, have suffered since that time. In these humane days the gipsies may wander in peace, provided they behave inoffensively wheresoever they chance to make their transient abode; for the bloody act was repealed in the twenty-third year of his present majesty.

Page 36

* 1.55David Pennant was the first of us who married into a Saxon family; he took to wife Anne, daughter of John Done, of Utkin|ton, in Cheshire, by Anne daughter of Richard Heaton, of Heaton, in the county of Lancaster. He begat many sons and daughters, among them was the famous abbot Thomas, and also Sir Hugh Pennant, Offeiriad, or priest, whom the great Lhuyd, in his Aaelogic, p. 257, calls an able poet, in the time of Henry VIII.; and I find also, that in 1575 he was at an Fisteddfod, at Caerwis, secondary student in vocal song, and — he was the only musical man in all our line.

* 1.56TILL the advancement of Richard Pennant to the title of Penrbyn, our house was never distinguished by any honors beyond the most useful one, that of justice of the peace. I should blush if a Pennant should be found, who through lack of public spirit, sloth, or selfishnese, could decline that great constitutional office! The first sheriff of our house was Pyers Pennant, who discharged that trust in 1612. He had the lot of marrying the daughter of a family not famed for placidity, or the milder virtues. Valdè valde, irritabile genus! 'And from them, Tom (a most worthy aunt of mine used often to tell me) we got our passion;'—and frequently added the wise Welsh caution, Beware of a Breed!

THE fruits of this marriage appeared very soon. Thomas, the eldest son, in a furor brevis, killed his miller: was indicted for the manslaughter, tried, and convicted; but received his pardon, dated in the first of Charles I. or the year 1625. This grace preserved him from the ignominious part of the sentence, and the more important advantage of preserving his personality, which would otherwise have been forfeited to the crown.

Page 37

THIS is sufficient to shew that the offence did admit of every palliation; but a stronger proof than that may be drawn from the following honor having been conferred on him, when we find that in eight years afterwards, in 1633, he was intrusted with the care of the county of Flint, by having the office of high sheriff committed to his charge. He died the next year; cujus animae propitietur DEUS! This unfortunate man married a grand-daughter of that nuptial-loving dame Catherine y Berran (See Tour in Wales, vol. ii. p. 29) Mary, daughter of Edward Wynn, of Ystrad, son of Morris Wynn, of Gwydir, fourth and last husband of our famous Catherine. There was no issue from this match; so Bychton descended to David, the next brother.

IN those days, and long preceding,* 1.57 it was customary for the friends and neighbors of the sheriff to make presents to him to assist in defraying the expences. I have among my papers two long rolls of gifts. To give the whole would be very tedious. I extract only a few of the most remarkable, among which are several in money, which his friends were not ashamed to offer: nor the sheriff to receive. The cash received in 1612, was £. 10. 18 s. 6 d.; that in 1642, £. 5.

A Note of such Presents as were given previous to the seconde Sessions, 1612. Sept 27. Pyers Pennant, Sheriff.
  • Imp. From my mother 1 cowe 8 weathers
  • Evan ap John ap Llewelyn I weather
  • Humffrey Thomas ap Edd VI geesse
  • Hugh ap Llewelyn VI geesse
  • William John ap Llewelyn II geesse
  • ...

Page 38

  • Katharinge Vth Evan II geesse
  • Thomas Barker III geesse
  • Piers Griffith III geesse
  • Hugh ap Morris II geesse
  • From my sone Harry Conwey VIII hoopes * 1.58 of wheat
  • From my mother VI hoopes of wheat, and a paile full of butter
  • From my sister Holande III hwps of wheat, and a whole brawne
  • From my brother Tho. Kyffin, in goulde II £ IIIIs
  • From Jo Roberts, in money VIs
  • From Rice ap Jor ap Llewelyn IIs VId
  • From John ap Jor Gr II muttons and a dozen chicks
  • Gregor II capons
  • Katheringe Penant II capons, II dozen of eggs
  • Thomas Price I goose
  • Thomas ap W ap Meredith one mutton
  • M Pennant, in gould XI shillings
  • S Thomas Wrighte, wyf II geesse
  • John ap Rie a couple of chishes
  • My brother W Kyffin II£
  • S Roger Mosten
  • From Mr David Holland, in goulde XXXIIIIs
  • From Mr Ellis Edwards, of Halliwell VIIs
  • From Mr Griffith, of Kayarws XXs
  • From Morris of the mounten Xs
  • From my brother Edward Kyffin, in gould Xs
  • ...

Page 39

  • From Mr Edward Pennant, of Bagillt Xs
  • From Richart ap Jevan Vs

To shew that the sense of relationship was not, in those days, soon worn out, Mr. Done, of Utkinton, sent a venison, for which the sheriff gave as a fee 6 s. 8 d. to the keeper. This sheriff was in respect to the donor fifth in descent from the marriage of David Pennant ap Tudor, with Anne, daughter of John Done, of Utkinton, as near as I can guess about the year 1440.

1642. A Note of what Presents were sent against the Sessions. David Pennant, Sheriff.
  • My Lady Mostyn, 2 muttons, a gallon of sacke, and 2£
  • Mr Griffith, of Cayrwis, 2 sugar loafs.
  • Mr Roger Parry,
  • Mr Robert Pennant,
  • Mrs Conway, of Nant,
  • Mrs Matthew, a sugar loaf.
  • Mr Vaughan, 3 gallons of sacke.
  • Mr Ralph Hughes, a mutton, 6 rabbetts, a dozen pigeons.
  • Mr John Jones, a sugar loafe.
  • Mr David Jones, a sugar loafe.
  • Mr Raphell Davis, a veale.
  • Mr Hugh Pennant, of Dooning, a mutton.
  • Mr William Mostyn, of Bagillt, halfe a veale, and a pigg.
  • Nichlas George, 2 capons.
  • Edward ap Thomas, a veale, a pigg, a quart of hony.
  • William Parry Wynn, a mutton.
  • ...

Page 40

  • Margaret Price, of Brinford, a mutton.
  • Th ap Roi ap Hugh, 2 capons, and a pigg.
  • John ab William J, halfe a veale, and a q hony.
  • Edward Ethel, a q veale, and a pigg, 6 q claret.
  • John Thomas Evans, a qr veale.
  • Jullius Sesar, a qr veale, and a q porke.
  • Thomas ab Ellis, a mutton.
  • Pyers Williams, 2 capons, a qt hony.
  • William Ethel, a sugar loafe.
  • John Price, of Calcate, 2 hoopes of oates.
  • Robert Lloyd, a sugar oafe.
  • Thomas Lloyd, of Mertyn, a qr veale, a q lambe.
  • Petter Hughes, 2 capons.
  • Thomas Parry, of Mays guin, 2 capons, and a pigg.
  • John ap Robert Shamber wen, halfe a veale.
  • Thomas John Cooke, half a mutton.
  • Barbara Parry, half a lambe.
  • The Deputie Sheriffe, 2 turkies, and a pottle of sacke.
  • John Price, of Pentre, a q veale, a pigg.
  • Robert Lloyd, of Taverne y Gennog, halfe a lambe.
  • John Humfrey, a veale.
  • M Kyffin, a qr veale, a greate cake.
  • Mr Roger Holland, 4 hoops of wheat.
  • Andrew Ellis, a goose, a q veale.
  • Margaret ach Pyers, 2 dozen cakes.
  • Thomas ap Thomas, a flitch of bacon, 6 qt claret, a qt veale.
  • Ellen Foulkes, a qr veale.
  • ...

Page 41

  • John ap John, halfe a lambe, a q of mutton.
  • John Conway, a qr veale, a pigg.
  • Anne Simon, a qrt of sacke.
  • Foulke, the joyner, a pigg.
  • David, the weaver, a pigg.
  • Ellin Lorrance, 2 henns.
  • Thomas John ap Ric. a qr porke, 4 eggs.
  • Ales Owen, 2 henns, 2 piggs, 6 chickins, 30 eggs.
  • Mar. John Robert, 2 hens, a pigg, three chi.
  • Edward John ap Robert, 2 henns, a qt porke, a pigg.
  • John ap Rhytherch, 60 eggs.
  • Hugh Barker, a qr of porke.
  • John ap John ap Robert, 2 capons.
  • Hugh ap Thomas ap Harry, 2 capons.

IN these numerous lists of presents I was surprised at the omission of brandy;* 1.59 probably the fiery dram was not then in fashion in Wales: yet nurse, in Romeo and Juliet, calls for it amain, under the name of aqua vitae:

Some aqua vitae, ho! my lord, my lady!
It appears to have been chiefly used in those days for medical purposes.

IN captain Wyndham's voyage to Guinea there was brandy on board for the use of the sick sailors. It was said to have been invented by Raymundus Lullius, the famous alchemist, who died in the year 1315. Charles the Bad, king of Navarre, came to a most horrible end, says Mezerey, (i. 954.) who, to restore his strength, weakened by debauchery, was wrapped in sheets steeped

Page 42

in au de. His valet by accident set fire to them: after the third day he died in the most dreadful tortures, and it is to be hoped thus expiated the crimes of his most execrable life. I am indebted for the origin of brandy to a most elaborate essay on it which I received from Mr. William Taylor, of Norwich, by fa|vor of my friend Dr. Atkin.

* 1.60I NOW, in gratitude, take up the brief history of William Pen|nant, second son to Hugh Pennant, of Bychton, by Sionet, daughter of Richard ap Howel ap Moston. His good deeds towards the poor of our parish, and his good intention towards our family, give him full clame to this token of respect. William was a goldsmith and jewelier; he lived at the Queen's Head, in Smith|field; and by the sign of his shop, and by the several bequests he made to persons about the court, he probably was goldsmith and jeweller to the royal family.* 1.61 He made a considerable fortune, and died possessed of the manor of Moxhall, in the parish of Andley, in the county of Essex; the rectories called Cutcombe and Luxborough, in the county of Somerset; the leafe of the manor of Thornes, in Haveringe, in the Bower Ward, in the county of Essex; the lease of the manor of Noxbridge, in the same county; and in London, an estate in Smithfield and Hosier Lane; and a house called the Blue Anchor, in Candlewick ward, which last he bequeathed to the famous Hugh Middleton, afterwards Sir Hugh, the projector of the New River. All the other estates he be|queathed thus:—His manor of Mxhall, and the two rectories, to his nephew Hugh Pennant; and his leases of the manor of Thornes to his brother Pyers Pennant, of Mailard Green, in the county of Essex, the gentleman usher before mentioned.

Page 43

ALL these fruits of William Pennant's industry were dissipated by my unfortunate name sake, mentioned in a preceding page,* 1.62 who luckily died before he had ruined our paternal estate.

HIS bequest in money to the poor of Whiteford parish had a better fate.* 1.63 It was laid out in the purchase of land in the parish of St. Asaph; the produce of which annually clothes completely eighteen poor men or poor women, on the feast of St. Thomas. On the expiration of the lease of those lands, I trust that double the number will experience the benefit of this charity.

William Pennant also remembered several of his friends by le|gacies, at this time appearing to us very singular.* 1.64 Besides some small legacies in money, he bequeathed the following articles:—

Item, I give and bequeath unto Sir William Fortescue, K, one chaine of gold and pearle, weighing about 12 ounces and a quarter; one billament of gold and pearle, being 19 pieces; a round salt of silver, with a cover thereto, weighing 15 ounces, and some what more; six white silver spoons; one feather-bed, bolster, two pillows, two blankets, one blue rugg, a teastern of satten figured, russet and black, and vallance to the same; five curtains of taffety farsanet, on char, and a stool with a back of satten figured russet; ten black — and six stools covered with black wrought velvett; and also a great chest covered with black leather, with an in-lock on it, and all things in it (excepting cer|tain plate therein) hereafter bequeathed. Item, I give and bequeath unto — Fortescue, the daughter of the sald William Fortescue, Kt, and god-daughter to my late wife Ellinor, her aunt, one bason and ewer of silver, all gilt, weighing 36 ounces, or thereabouts; one dozen of silver spoons gilt,

Page 44

weighing 22 ounces, or thereabouts; one silver pot hooped, weighing 20 ounces and upwards, with arms on the side thereof; a bell salt without a cover, partly gilt, weighing 6 ounces, or thereabouts. All which particulars are in the said black chest. And I will that the same shall presently after my decease be delivered to the said Wm Fortescue, Kt, for him to keep safely in trust and confidence, to and for the use of — —, untill she happen to be married, or untill she shall at|tain to the age of 21 years, and then to be delivered unto her; and that if the said — — happen to die before she be married, or attain to the said age of 21 years, then I give and bequeath the said legacy to her bequeathed to Roger Fortescue, her brother, to be delivered to him at his age of 21 years, and untill that time to remain in trust in the hands of Sir Wm Fortescue, Knt, his uncle. Item, I give and be|queath unto my loving and kind friend, Mr. Randall Woolley, merchant taylor, one ounce of fine gold to make him a ring. Item, I give and bequeath unto my loving friend Mr. John Barker, living at Mr. Rob Holland's house, the like quantity of fine gold to make him a ring. Item, I give and bequeath unto my loving friend Mr. Richd Locksmith, Clerk to Mr. Attorney General, one ounce of fine gold to make him a ring. Item, I give and bequeath to my loving cousin Mr. John Lloide, bencher of the Inner Temple, 34 buttons of gold; to my cousin Wm Lloyd, his brother, 5 l. of money. Item, I give and bequeath to my honorable and late master, the said John Fortescue, Knt, one of his Highness' most honorable privy

Page 45

councel, in token of the remembrance of his love and kindness towards me, 20l. in money, to buy him a piece of velvet for a gown. Item, I give and bequeath to my loving friend the un|der-named, for the love and kindness that hath passed between us on this earth, as followeth: that is to say; to Sir Robert Ban|nister, knight, clark companion of his majesty's household, one ounce of fine gold, of 3l. to make him a ring. To Thomas Merry, chief clerk of his majesty's kitchen, one ounce of the like gold to make him a hooped silver pot for his wife. Item, to John Trefearne, one other of the clerks of the kitchen, one ounce of like gold, to make him a ring; and to John Crane, one other of the clerks of the kitchen, the like quantity of gold. Item, to Mr. Lewis Owen, serjeant of the larder, the like quan|tity of gold Item, to Lewis Rogers, the prince's servant, half an ounce of like gold to make him a ring. Item, to John Panton, servant to the right honorable the lord chancellor of England, one ounce of fine gold of the like value. Item, to John Price, one of the porters of the spiritual court in London, the like quantity of fine gold. Item, to John Legate, of Hornchurch, in Essex, esquire, one ounce of fine gold. Item, I give and bequeath to my loving friend Walter Meredith, 5 l. in money, and also a cloak of fine black cloth, with some lace about, and lined through with russet taffety.

THIS will is dated May 4th, 1607; the codicil two years after, and Sir Hugh Myddleton left sole executor.

THE entertaining James Howel,* 1.65 in the xliiid letter of his Epistolae Ho-Elianae, makes John Pennant, third son of Pyers

Page 46

Pennant of Byhn, and brother of the worthy William, the in|strument of presages to our kingdom, of the evil days and evil times which were advancing with rapid pace. The relation is very properly addressed to that mirror of credulity, Sir Kenelm Digby, knight.

* 1.66'It was my fortune,' says the solemn historian,

to be in a late communication, where a gentleman spoke of a hideous thing that happened in High Holborn; how one John Pennant, a young man of 21, being dissected after his death, there was a kind of serpent, with divers tails, found in the left ventricle of his heart, which you know is the most defended part, being thrice thicker than the right, and is the cell which holds the purest and most illustrious liquor, the arterial blood and the vital spirits. The serpent was it seems three years ingen|dring, for so long time he found himself indisposed in the breast; and it was observed that his eye, in the interim, grew more sharp and fiery, like the eye of a cock, which is next the serpent's eye in redness: so that the symptom of his in|ward disease might have been told by certain exterior rays and signatures.

GOD preserve us from public calamities! for serpentine monsters have been often ill favored presages. I remember in the Roman story, to have read how, when snakes or serpents were found near the statues of their Gods, at one time about Jupiter's neck, another time about Minerva's thigh, there fol|lowed bloody civil wars after it.

THIS portentous story is given most scientifically by Dr. Edward May, in a thin quarto pamphlet of forty pages. The

Page 47

title-page will inform the reader of his various other titles, which savor most strongly of quackery.

[figure] engraved title page

A MOST CERTAINE AND TRVE RELATION OF A STRANGE MONSTER OR SERPENT, Found in the Left Ventricle of the Heart of John Pennant, Gentle|man of the Age of 21 Years.

By Edward May, Doctor of Philosophy and Physick, and Professor Elect of them in the Colledge of the Academy of Noblemen, called the Musaeum Minervae.

Physitian also Extraordinary unto her Most Sacred Majesty Queene of GREAT BRITAIN, &c.

LONDON: Printed by George Miller, MDCXXXIX.

THE epistle dedicatory is

to the renowned peere of this king|dom, Edward earle of Dorset,
the book itself to Sir Theodore Maiherne, knight. In that he lays before him the wonderful case. He tells us that he was sent on October 7th, 1637, by Lady

Page 48

Herris, wife to Sir Francis Herris, knight, to dissect her nephew John Pennant, who had deceased the night before, to know the cause of his death. The doctor brought with him Master Jacob Heyden, surgeon, to assist in the enquiry. Mr. Heydon made in|cision into the left ventricle of the heart, which was full of blood. On thorough examination, the monster was discovered, the head of which was so like to that of a serpent, that Lady Herris shivered to see it. To judge by the prints, all the upper part of it was cylindrical; towards the lower part bifurcated, and each fork divided into five long and slender fibrillae. I leave to the reader the perusal of the rest of Dr May's most curious dis|quisition.

THIS is not the only instance of similar appearances in the heart: but we hear no more of serpents; the name was changed to polypuses, to which, for their numerous ramifications, they might bear the resemblance. In our Philosophical Transactions are more than one paper on the subject. In Mr. Lowthorp's Abridg. iii. p. 70, and tab. p. 120, is an account, and the figure of one found in the heart of a man at Oxford; and in Mr. Martyn's Abridg. ix. p. 135, is the account of several discovered in num|bers of sailors who died immediately on their return from the West Indies. This paper was written by the celebrated Dr. Huxbam; he quotes Malpighius, Bartholinus, Tulpius, and Pechlin, as giving incontestible instances of the existence of polypi in the heart, in the strictest sense. This opinion is now exploded. The only uncommon circumstance (my ingenious friend Dr. Haygarth assures me) is, that the left ventricle of the heart, and probably the aorta, which after death are usually empty, were

Page 49

in these cases full of blood. The crassamentum, upon coagula|tion, had taken the form of the arteries in which it was con|tained.

I BREAK a little into chronology,* 1.67 to conclude with an event relative to another of my house; of little moment indeed, but merely to give a picture of the barbarous days, even of the be|ginning of the last century, which I collected from the journal kept by Peter Roberts, of St. Asaph, before mentioned. He re|cords, that on July 22d, 1615, Hugh Pennant, brother to Pyers Pennant, esq of Bychton, died of a broken head given him at Denbigh, by Pyers Hughes: That in the year 1626, Rowland Evan, a vicar of St. Asaph, was killed at an ale-house in Llandrillo Eiderneon: That on October 3d, 1628, Mr. Richard Thelwal was slain at his own house at Ruthen: And that, in 1634, one Foulkes, of Cilowen, killed his wife, and cut his own throat.

THE mention of ale house tempts me to speak of a house of mine, by the sea-side, in the township of Bychton,* 1.68 called Lletty Gonest, or the honest house. It had been formerly in the highest repute for its excellent ale, brewed by a good ale-wife yclep'd Jane, of Lletty, whom I well remember. She acquired both fame and wealth, both of which I may say she bequeathed to her descendants; who to this day, by their own industry, continue to flourish on the effect of her's.

THE house was originally built by one Smith, from Worcester, partly for the purposes of distilling, and partly for a warehouse. I am told, that it occasionally had served for the place of con|finement for impressed men, at the time in which the colliers

Page 50

had such great trade with Dublin. The strong bars in the lower windows favor that notion.

* 1.69ABOVE the door is a very singular sculpture, cut in bas-relief, in stone, and let into the wall. One part is a strange chimerical figure of a monster with four legs, and the head of an owl, fixing its claws in the side of a human head. The face is averted, and expressing much agony. The eye-lids are drawn up, the eyes the same, the mouth half opened, and the teeth closely fixed together. The face is young, but has a pair of whiskers, and is far from being ill cut. It has the character of one of Le Brun's passions, article Pain. It evidently never was designed for this place, but seems originally to have been one of those fanciful gothic sculptures be|longing to some antient church.

* 1.70IN the reign of King William, this house was remarkable for the violent hands laid on a vast seizure of French wines, to the amount of sixty pipes, which had been smuggled into the great barn at Trelacre, in the parish of Llanasa, destined for the use of the Welsh gentry in this and the neighboring counties. It must be observed, that in those days port-wine was in very little use in our country. The officers had conveyed this prize with safety as far as Lletty Gonest, where they intended to sleep that night. At midnight they were alarmed by the entry of multitudes of colliers, who tied every body in the house neck and heels. They removed the wine into other carriages, and conveyed it into places so secure that it never more could be heard of. Many of the colliers were observed to have rings on their fingers, and fine linen. In fact numbers of them were the gentlemen interested in the wine, and concerned in the re-capture, who mixed with

Page 51

the colliers, to direct them in their operations. A proclamation was issued out for the discovery of the offenders; but such was the fidelity of our people, that they were never detected. The poor tapster, in particular, knew perfectly well who they were, and large rewards were offered to him by the custom-house; but nothing could shake his attachment to his friends. He lived long after, supported by the grateful contributions of the neighboring 'squires.

HIGH above Lletty Gonest stands a summer-house, built by my grandfather, to which he often adjourned with his guests, to re|gale them with the delicious beer, brewed by the famous Jane. Many years after, when I became master of the estate, I also had my adjournment, but it was either to eat shrimps or to drink tea. An honest vicar of a distant parish, who had been a most intimate friend of my convivial grandfather, enquired whether I ever went to the summer-house; and was answered, 'Now and then, to drink tea.' Struck with horror at the de|generacy of the grandson, the good man with indignation ex|clamed,

DRINK TEA! his grandfather would have SCORNED IT!

THE turnpike road designed for the enabling the smelters and others to convey our coal to the places of its destination, from the Mostyn and Bychton pits, passes by Lletty Gonest, and goes along the shore towards Holywell. In the space of a mile it passes by three smelting-houses, Shop-goch, the property of Sir Roger Mostyn, and Pen-y-Ro and Llanerch-y-môr, belonging to me. The last disputes antiquity with most in the county, the late works at Gadlis excepted.

Page 52

ABOVE the last is the neat house of Kinsale, inhabited by my good friend and tenant Mr. Ralph Richardson, who for several years had with great success and integrity carried on the smelting business, with the advantage of shipping the produce from the very spot, after a short carriage to the vessels.

A SMALL marsh begins a little beyond Lletty Gonest, and widens as it extends southward. It borders on the manor of Mostyn: but itself owns no lord but the king. The same may be said of the va|luable remainder, as far as the manor of Coleshill, in the parish of Flint. The minor of Greenfield, in the parish of Holywell, was long supposed to have been the property of one or other of two clamants, who fell into dispute about the right. The matter was referred to two gentlemen of the law, eminent for their abilities, and not less so for their probity. After examining all the proofs adduced by the rivals, they adjudged that neither had any clame to the lordship; so it is now left to the freeholders under our sovereign lord the king: a rich tract for future inclosures.

A LITTLE beyond Kinsale is the end of our parish on this side. The boundary between it and the parish of Holywell, is a small ll called Avon Marsh Siambr.* 1.71 Above on an eminence is the old seat of the Pierces, a family now extinct, and the property passed into other hands. It bears the name of Is Glan, from the name of the township in which it stands.

ABOUT a mile higher up is Merton, the seat of the Reverend Mr. John Foulkes. He derives his right to it from Margaret, daughter and heiress to Thomas Parry ap William Parry Wynne. She married John Foulkes, of Pen-yeba luy, in the parish of Shyiog, great-grandfather to the present owner, who died in July, 1667, and was interred in Whiteford church-yard.

Page 53

Tre Mostyn bounds Tre Bychton on the west.* 1.72 This town|ship is considered as containing one fourth of the parish. It reaches to the sea-side: on which, as well as the whole, trees of every kind grow most admirably.

IT is divided from Tre Bychton, in the lower part by the turn|pike road, which extends from the sea-side to Henllan, sixteen miles distant, originally designed for the conveyance of coal from the pits of this township, and that of Tre Bychton, to the great lime-works near Denbigh. The first act was obtained in 1768, the second in 1770: before which our roads were scarcely passable. If either Sir Roger Mostyn's family or our own wanted to get to Chester, we were to reach the sea-side; then to Flint as we could, and from thence at low water cross the ford of the Dee, a way not always unattended with danger.

OPPOSITE to Mostyn gates, on this part of the turnpike road,* 1.73 is a hamlet, called the Rhewl, yr Heol, platea, a way or street. On each side are a few houses. The Swan, a small ale-house, my property, was noted for its vast trade about the beginning of this century, when the coal trade was in the height of its prosperity:

And Cww da then unexcised by kings!
Thomas Edwards, who several years was tenant there, edu|cated a family of numbers of children, at no inconsiderable expence, and is supposed to have acquired by the tap at lest fifteen hundred pounds.

FROM the Rhewl opens the principal gates to Mostyn Hall,* 1.74 or more properly Moston Hall, for such, for many ages, was the spelling of the names of both the mansion and its antient owners. On this approach is a most venerable avenue, which goes for a

Page 54

considerable way in a direct line; then turns short, and terminates with a view of the old part of the old mansion. The park is small, but beautifully broken, and cloathed in various parts with fine oaks, and most magnificent beeches; but amidst the trees is suffered to remain rugged with the vestiges of the antient col|lieries. The ground slopes finely to the sea, facing the North East. The trees grow with vigor close to the water, unhurt by the rude winds with which they are affailed.

THE house is placed about half a mile from the shore. I find some difficulty in making a description. I shall therefore refer the reader to the first plate of Welsh seats, by Mr. Boydel, and to my own, as the only method of giving him some idea of the sin|gularity of the structure. That plate attempts the front—

If front it might be call'd, that shape had none Distinguishable.
For it consists of the most antient hall; a lesser, designed for a sort of symposium for servants; and on the outside, annexed and jutting out, is the quondam chapel, now converted into a bed-chamber. I have a sketch of the whole as it was in the year 1684, made by a Mr. Thomas Dinely, an attendant on Henry, first duke of Beaufort, then lord president of the council in the prin|cipality of Wales, and lord lieutenant of the twelve counties; who in that year made a reviewing progress of the militia of North Wales, and of course paid his respects to the great man of our country.

THE porch had been rebuilt in 1623. It has on it the arms of the four great alliances of the family, rudely cut on the stone.

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
MOSTYN HALL. 〈…〉〈…〉

Page 55

They seem to have been copied from the great chimney-piece in the hall.

I CANNOT trace the time of building of this part of the house. It must have been at lest early in the time of Henry VI. but pro|bably more antient, for in Bolton Hall, in Bowland, Yorkshire (the most antique seat we know) is a hall in a lesser scale indeed, but greatly similar; and in that house it is well known that the unfor|tunate prince concealed himself for a long time. Posterity may find the account in my

Tour in Part of the Mercian and Northum|brian Kingdoms.
The great gloomy hall is furnished with a Dais or elevated upper end,* 1.75 and with a long table for the lord and his jovial companions; and another in the side, the seat of the inferior partakers of the good cheer. To this day the similitude of the old times is kept up when the family is at home. The head servants take their dinner at the Dais, and the numerous inferior servants fill the long table. The roof is lofty, crossed with long beams. The nen-bren, or top-beam, was in all times a frequent toast, whenever the master of the house's health was drank; and 'Jached y nen-bren y ty,' was the cordial phrase. The chimney-piece is magnificently plain, unless where the arms of the house and its alliances are cut on the stone, and properly emblazoned.

THE first are the arms (a lion rampant, ermin,* 1.76 erminé) of Jevan Vychan, of Pengwern, near Llangollen, (see Tour in Wales, vol. i. p. 295.) sixteenth in descent from Owen Tudor. By the marriage of Jevan with Angharad, daughter and sole heiress of Howel ap Tudor ap Ithel Vychan, of Mostyn, he added that estate to his paternal acres in the reign of Richard II.

IT seems (from the Mostyn pedegree) that in 1444 Jevan had

Page 56

farmed the estate. He wisely determined to turn the lease into a perpetuity: and gaining the lady's affections,

Connubio junxit stabili, propriamque dicavit.

THE next are the arms of his spouse, the heiress of Mostyn: di|rectly descended from the Edwyn lord of Tegengle before mentioned (argent a cross engrailed sable, between four Cornish choughs.)

THE third are the arms of Gloddaeth, (gules a chevron argent between three plates) acquired by the marriage of Howel ap Evan Vychan, son of the former, in 1460, with Margaret, daughter and heir of Gryffydd ap Rhys ap Gryffydd ap Madoc Gloddaeth ap Ma|doc ap Jerweth Goch, of Cryddyn, the hundred in which the house stands.

THE fourth are the arms of Sir Gryffydd Lloyd. Morfydd, one of his daughters and co-heiresses, married Madoc Gloddaeth, who with her received Tregarnedd, in the isle of Anglesey, as her portion. That estate followed the succession of the house, till Gloddaeth was united with that of Mostyn, in which it continued till the year 1750; then it was alienated by the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, to the late Mr. Owen Williams, of Anglesey.

THE walls are furnished in a suitable manner with antient mili|tia guns, swords, and pikes; with helmets and breast-plates; with funeral atchievements,* 1.77 and with variety of spoils of the chace. A falcon is nailed against the upper end of the room, with two bells, a greater and a lesser, hung to each foot. On two silver rings are inscribed the name of the owner, Mr. Kinloch, of Kul|rie, in the county of Angus, on the Eastern side of Scotland. With these incumbrances it flew from its owner on the morning of the 24th of September, 1772, and was killed near this house on the

Page 57

morning of the 26th. The precise time it reached our country is not known; therefore we are uncertain whether this bird exceeded in swiftness the hawk which flew thirty miles in an hour in pur|suit of a woodcock; or that which made a flight out of West|phalia into Prussia in a day—instances recorded by the learned Sir Thomas Brown.

THE adjacent kitchen is overlooked by a gallery leading to the antient apartments of the lady of the house,* 1.78 at a period when the odors of the pot and spit were thought no ill savors. From the commanding height of the gallery the good lady might give her orders to her Coges, or she-cook, as Syrus is humorously de|scribed by Terence to do to his scullion Dromo:

Let the great eel sport a little longer in the water.—See that you gut the other fishes, and stew the great carp well.—Freshen the salt fish.— Look to the baked meats, good Douse.—Crisp the pig nicely.— Pray do not over-roast the surloin again.—Boil the pudding sufficiently, and do not spare plums and suet.—Be sure not to smoke the flummery.—Remember, no onions to-day—neigh|bor P. dines with us, &c. &c.

IN the roof to this gallery are numbers of small roosting-holes, to which the inferior maidens of the family nightly repair to rest from their labors.

AT one end of the gallery is a great room,* 1.79 remarkable for a singular event. During the time that Henry earl of Richmond was secretly laying the foundation of the overthrow of the house of York, he passed concealed from place to place, in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who favored his cause on account of their re|spect to his grandfather Owen Tudor, their countryman. While

Page 58

he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard III. arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine, but had just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a hole, which,* 1.80 to this day, is called the King's. Richard ap Howel, then lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth; and after the victory, received from the king, in token of gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword he wore on that day; he also pressed Richard greatly to follow him to court: but he nobly an|swered, like the Shunamitish woman:

I dwell among mine own people.
The sword and belt were preserved in the house till within these few years. It is observable that none of our histo|rians account for a certain period of Henry's life, previous to his accession. It is very evident that he passed the times when he disappeared from Bretagny, in Wales. Many cotemporary bards, by feigned names, record this part of his life, under those of the LION, the EAGLE, and the like, which were to restore the em|pire to the Britons: for the inspired favorers of the house of Lancaster did not dare to deliver their verses in other than terms allegorical, for fear of the reigning prince.

* 1.81IN all probability the original of Mostyn was a square tower, such as may be exemplified entire at Tower, the seat of the Reverend the late Dr. Wynne (see Tour in Wales, ii. p. 427). Part of that at Mostyn is still remaining, but concealed by the additional buildings. It is fully shewn in the view of Mostyn, as it was in the year 1684. The upper part ought to have been em|battled, but the top had been in later times covered with an auk|ward dome. These square towers are still very frequent on the borders of Scotland, built in savage times, as I have attempted to

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
MOSTYN as in 1684. 〈…〉〈…〉

Page 59

describe in my Tour in Scotland, second edition, volume ii. p. 88. In the plate of Mostyn is given the view of the seat of a gentle|man of large fortune in antient times. In that of Bychton, one of middling fortune. In that of the late Mr. Parry's of Merton, one of small fortune. As to our estate, I think the rent-roll in the year 1572 might amount to about 300l. a year, consisting of a little money, and rents in kind, and services.

BEFORE I quit the old house, let me say, that the best view of the chaotic additions backward is from the garden, from a very handsome summer-house, built by the first baronet, as appears by his arms quartered with those of his wife, Bulkeley of Baron Hill. From this spot is seen great part of the buildings, and the appurtenances to the old house, one tacked to the other, as the increase or the wants of the family made necessary.

IN the year 1631, Sir Roger Mostyn, knight,* 1.82 gave to the house a very handsome addition; a square mass, consisting of six bed-chambers, a very large eating-room, and a dining-room or drawing-room above, with a large bow-window in the middle of each. In that below are the arms of Gwynne and D'Arcy, well emblazoned on glass. These are complimentary to two great alliances; the one of Sir Roger himself with Mary, daughter of the famous Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir; the other out of respect to the alliance with Bridget Savage, daughter of D'Arcie Savage, esq of Leighton, in Cheshire, by whom the family acquired the great estates they possess in that county. From the principal gate of the park they have the pleasing view of those of Beeston, and those above Parkgate.

OPPOSITE to this window is a fire-place suitable to the room. Above are the arms of the numerous alliances of the house,

Page 60

beautifully done in stucco, dated 1632. Conjoined with them are the arms of Mary Wynne, wife of Sir Roger. Those of Gwydir quarterly with those of Gryffydd ap Conan. In the first of the Mostyn side are those of Tudor Trevor, the stock of the house. The next are those of Llwdocca ap Caradc. 3dly, the arms of Elidir ap Rhys Sais. 4thly, those of Jestyn ap Gurgant. 5thly, the bearing of Brochwel Yscythrog. 6thly, the arms of Edwyn. 7thly, those of Tudor ap Gronw. 8thly, of Ithel Vychan. 9thly, are the arms of Madoc Gloddaeth. 10thly, are those of Sir Gryffydd Lloyd. The 11th, of Goodman; and 12thly, and lastly, the arms of Shalmesorow, which seem an appurtenance only to those of Goodman. This is a mere focal ornament, an abridge|ment of the thirty-two coats which graced the pedegree of the house in the year 1663. Two Termini support the entablature of this genealogical table. The other ornaments are elegant; but unfortunately, as if to dash the mirth of the company, the architect has added, in full view, the monumental cross-bones and bared skull.

AT the upper end of the room are two fine portraits by Mytens, full lengths. One is of Sir Roger Mostyn, knight, men|tioned at p. 17. His face is an excellent representation of the viridis senectus, his countenance florid, his peaked beard of strong whiteness. On his head is a black close cap, turned up with Flanders lace; round his neck a flat large ruff; his whole dress besides is black; round the waistband of his great breeches is a girdle stuck with points. This piece of magnificence gave rise to a very coarse proverb, applicable to inferior people, ambitious of acting beyond their station. Round his knees are similar gir|dles.

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]

Page 61

His boots are large, and of white leather, turned down at top, and ornamented in the same finical manner as the cap: such was the foppery of the times, even in so manly a figure as was our knight of Mostyn. But then he was in full dress, his spurs of fine gold, with vast spur-leathers. His right hand rests on his stick, his left on a table covered with a carpet most ad|mirably painted; on it his hat, broad-brimmed, and with a most immoderate crown. The date on his portrait is 1634; his age 67. He died on August 18th, 1642, and was interred at Whiteford, on September the 1st.

HIS lady's neck (in a picture of the same date) is ornamented with a large ruff, single and elevated; her right hand has in it a fan, and rests on an elbow-chair; on a finger of her left hand is a ring, tied to her arm by several black strings.

SHE is dressed in a handsome long gown, with a sash up to her very arms, exactly like the no-waisted fair of the present days. Her shape is contrived to have some degree of elegance, notwithstanding she seems to have been a large woman. I wish our modern embonpoints resembled this lady. They seem to emu|late in fashion the form of a sack of wool, bulging out on every side, undulating their plump graces, here and there, as motion gives occasion. Over the mouth of the sack seems to have been oftimes flung by accident a light horseman's cap, or any other incongruity, instead of the venerable coeffure of the Lady Mostyn, at the sober age of forty-nine.

HIS son Roger, the first baronet, created August 3d, 1660,* 1.83 is the middle figure of a picture of the most ridiculous composition. This distinguished character is represented a kit-kat length, in a strange long flaxen wig, a breast-plate, buff skirts, and antique

Page 62

Roman sleeves; a negro holding his helmet. By him is his second lady, Mary, eldest daughter of Thomas, lord Bulkeley, of Baron Hill. She is reading, with one hand on a skull, and her little lap-dog placed by her warlike husband. His third wife is doubled up, and concealed behind the frame. This lady shewed such a mercenary disposition, and so mischievous to the children of her predecessor, that one of the family affixed this stigma. I have taken a peep at her, and may pronounce her countenance to be truly symptomatic of her interior.

SIR Roger was a zealous loyalist. He raised a regiment in support of the crown, consisting of fifteen hundred men, in twelve hours time, mostly colliers. Whitelock, whose sister had been married to Sir Thomas Mostyn, of Kilken, in this county, knight, father to Sir Roger, speaks of him in the following terms; notwithstanding their principles, and the parts they took were widely different. 'Then the parliament forces (in 1643)' says the historian, at p. 78,

took in Mostyn-house, belonging to colonel Mostyn, the governor of Flint; and in Mostyn they took four pieces of ordnance and some arms.

THIS colonel Mostyn is my sister's son, a gentleman of good parts, and mettle; of a very ancient family, large possessions, and great interest in that country; so that in twelve hours he raised 1,500 men for the king, and was well beloved there, living very nobly.

THIS gentleman's loyalty cost him and the family dear. He spent about sixty thousand pounds in the service of his majesty. His house of Mostyn was plundered and stripped, so that he was obliged to retire to a small house called Plas-ycha, about a mile distant from Mostyn. The first was built by his grandfather, the

Page 63

old baronet before mentioned: within, in coarse stucco, are his arms, with those of Gwydir, and the date and initials of his and his lady's name—'1603, R. M. M. M.'

SIR Roger had a great intimacy with Pyers Pennant, his cotem|porary neighbor at Bychton. Both seem to have been boon companions, as is evident from the P. S. to the following cu|rious epistle:

Mostyn, . . . . . . 1674.* 2.1

Dear Pyers,

I HOPE you will excuse me for asking for the 4l. you owe me for the pair of oxen; for I want the money to make up 20l. to send my son to Oxford next week.

I am, dear Pyers, Your's, &c. &c. ROGER MOSTYN.

P. S.—How does your head do this morning?—mine aches confoundedly.

AT this time money was so scarce, that 4l. was a price for a pair of oxen; and the baronet of Mostyn was thought very liberal in sending his heir apparent to the university with 20l. in his pocket.

THE other portraits are a head of Sir Thomas Mostyn, the gen|tleman who married Bridget Savage, heiress of the Cheshire estates.

ONE of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, when a youth. In him was united the fine gentleman, the polite scholar, and the good man. My vision of a certain youth, I do believe, does not issue from the ivory gate.

— when I behold, with ravish'd eyes, Our pride, our darling, our Marcellus rise!

Page 64

PORTRAITS of William Vaughan, esq of Corsygedol, and his brother Evan Lloyd Vaughan, esq of Bodidris, successor to his estates, and to his seat in parlement for the county of Merioneth.

A SMALL full length of the exiled duke of Ormond, in a Roman dress, with a brown full wig, and a plan of a modern fortification, by Vauban or Chorn, at his feet.

* 2.2LET not the shades of the great grow indignant, when I men|tion on the same page our Billy Bangor, the wit, the jester, buf|foon, and fool (as he probably was misnamed) of our country. His sayings and his pranks are to this day much talked of. His is a half-length, with a pipe in his hand. His look savors not of folly, and is full of sly gravity. The portrait is well painted, I imagine in the beginning of the present century, in which Billy flourished.

TWO very good portraits, half-lengths, close the list. They are said to have been two painters, who sate for their pictures to each other. Their countenances are good, their dresses similar.

BETWEEN them is a head of Charles II. in his usual black wig. He is well painted, but without flattery. His coarse features well vindicate the question he put to poor Riley, the painter, on seeing the portrait done by that artist:

Is this like me?—then, od's fish, I am a very ugly fellow * 2.3!

* 2.4IN the room are some busts collected by the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, when he was at Rome; among them is a beautiful head of a young Faun, in a Phrygian bonnet, placed (by no very un|common mistake) on a female body, which it never owned.

ONE of the Cornelii, with meagre face and lank hair. Au|gustus. A Seleucus, with two wings fastened to an imperial

Page 65

diadem, symbols of dispatch and expedition. Two heads of old men, one with short curled hair, and long rounded beard; the other with a long square beard, and long flowing hair. Both have a fillet round the head. Neither of these are determined. One is conjectured to have been Hesiod; the other Hippocrates.

THIS room is in length thirty-five feet three inches; in breadth twenty feet, from the hollow of the bow-window to the fire-place.

IN passing out of this apartment to the great stairs is the entrance into a small and darksome room, mentioned only for the sake of a picture of a hound bitch, most enormously fat, doing great credit to the house: as another, I am in possession of, did to that of Bychton.

THE dining-room is above the parlor.* 2.5 The dimensions are very singular, exceeding in breadth those of the room below about nine inches. On an antient table, made out of one plank (of some unknown wood) seven feet ten inches in length, and four feet ten in breadth, stands a most exquisite bust of the elder Brutus,* 2.6 which seems as if formed in the instant that the love of his country got the better of paternal affection; when with a steady voice he was delivering to the lictors his Titus and Tiberius, to receive the reward of their treasons.

ON a glass case are two busts in brown alabaster,* 2.7 of a male and female Faun, with the flammeum on their heads. Both are of hideous deformity, but well executed. In the case beneath is a very fine model of a man of war of sixty-four guns:* 2.8 and beneath that a most splendid barge. I should have mentioned, that, between the Fauns, is also a model of the Edystone light-house,* 2.9 which was burnt down in the year 1755, and succeeded by the present, the work of our able engineer the late Mr. Smeaton.

Page 66

* 2.10ON the left hand of this case is a most charming painting by Leonardo da Vinci, of St. Catherine. The wheel is placed by her, and in her hand is a palm-branch, the symbol of martyrdom. Moreri, and the moderate catholic writers, seem to be incredu|lous, equally with myself, as to her history. The Golden Legend, that flower of martyrologies, is superior to all doubts. She was daughter to king Costus, married to our Saviour, and martyred by a wheel stuck with razors, under the tyrant Maxentius. The wheel burst to pieces, and at once killed four thousand Paynims who attended the execution. Both these subjects have furnished most delightful pictures for the best masters. (See more of her in my Outlines of the Globe—Arabia, vol. x. p. 23.)

* 2.11OVER the chimney-piece is a good picture by one of the Bassans, of the supper at Emaus, filled with pots and kettles, and all the characteristic culinary furniture of those famous artists.

* 2.12TWO very good pieces, I imagine of the interior of some great quarries, vast caverns, with pillars of stone left to support the roof. Similar to those are the caves of Caussie, in the county of Banff, in North Britain, drawn by my much-lamented protège, the late Mr. Cordiner, (see Introduction to the Arctic Zoology, tab. i.) and such as those engraven by Le Bruyn (ii. p. 189. tab. 250, 251, of the English edition) which he saw on the Wo|logda, in the province of the same name.

* 2.13THE family portraits shall be mentioned as they are placed. At the upper end of the room is Daniel, second earl of Notting|ham, sitting in his robes, with a most enormous black wig, flow|ing on each side, almost to his waist; his complexion suitably swarthy.

Page 67

THIS noble peer was painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and was one of the few pictures which that unprincipled painter, as Mr. Walpole says, would not gladly have disowned the moment it was paid for. The earl of Nottingham was, as Dalrymple repre|sents him to have been, most vehement in his political principles, both in church and state, so that he could hereby not live in charity with those who differed from him. He undertook the defence of the former against the attack made upon it by the famous Whiston, in a letter in 1719, addressed to his lordship, which the earl answered; for which his lordship received from the univer|sity of Oxford, in full convocation, its solemn thanks, for his noble defence of the Christian faith. He died January 1, 1729-30. His zeal (as Mr. Walpole observes) caused him during life to suffer many aspersions. In all probability the following may have been one: a stanza in the translation of the 4th Epistle, lib. ii. of Horace, Ne sit ancillae tibi amor pudori, by the Earl of to the Earl of S.

Did not base Greber's Pegg inflame The sober Earl of Nottingham, Of sober fire descended: That, careless of his soul and fame, To play-houses he nightly came, And left church undefended!

HIS second lady, Anne, only daughter of William,* 2.14 the last viscount Hatton, is the next portrait, sitting, and dressed in white. According to Collins, she was a most profitable vessel, for she had five sons and eight daughters, besides ten other children who died young, and seven who were still-born.

Page 68

* 2.15LADY Essex, her eldest daughter, in blue, sitting without a cap. One lock graces her neck. She was married to Sir Roger Mostyn, the third baronet. There is a good mezzotinto print of her, by John Smith, from a different portrait, by Kneller. The painter has placed her on a bank, in a rural scene, with flowers in her hands.

THE second daughter, lady Charlotte, married to Charles Seymour, duke of Somerset, in yellow, sitting.

Mary, countess of Thanet, in white, sitting, married to Sack|ville Tufton, earl of Thanet.

Dorothy, countess of Burlington, wife to the late Richard Boyle, earl of Burlington. She is in the character of Diana, in white, walking, with a spear in her hand.

THOSE two ladies were sisters, daughters to William Saville, marquis of Halifax, by his second wife, Mary, only daughter of the pious earl above mentioned, by his first wife, lady Essex Rich, one of the daughters and coheirs of Robert Rich, earl of Warwick.

* 2.16SIR Roger Mostyn, grandfather to the present baronet. He was pay-master of the marines, in the reign of Queen Anne, and one of the tellers of the exchequer in that of George I. He died on May 5th, 1739.

* 2.17THE late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and the general John Mostyn, painted when they were children of seven or eight years of age, in one piece. Sir Thomas is dressed in a blue silver-laced suit. His younger brother habited exactly like a girl, in stays, a frock, and an apron, with his neck naked: too ridiculous to be attempted by the artist, or permitted by the parents.

Page 69

Savage Mostyn, afterward admiral Mostyn.* 2.18 His is a very good and spirited portrait. It was painted when he was a lieutenant: his hand rests on a cannon, the sea and shipping in view. His dress a red short waistcoat, a colored handkerchief round his neck, and a colored worsted night-cap, sitting lightly on his well-shaven head. There is a neat etching of this portrait, by Worlidge. It is said that he first introduced the uniform into the navy. He died in 1757.

Algernon Percy, earl of Northumberland.* 2.19 That nobleman was not bred to the sea, yet in 1636 was employed by his majesty, with a fleet of sixty sail, to drive away the Dutch (Kennet, iii. 78.) who would persist in fishing on our coasts. When his lordship sound them indisposed to comply, he took some, sunk others, and drove the rest away. Soon after which the States were glad to submit to pay the sum of thirty thousand pounds for permis|sion to continue their fisheries. In the next year the earl was constituted lord high admiral of England. Lord Clarendon speaks of him when he was appointed privy counsel, as if it was done for ornament! He took, in the consequent troubles, a part adverse to the king. But in 1648, he voted that his majesty's concessions were sufficient grounds for settling the peace of the kingdom. The army soon settled that affair. His lordship retired from the tyranny of the times, became one of the instru|ments of the Restoration, and died in 1668.

HE is painted as lord high admiral, sitting (a half-length) with one hand on an anchor, with the view of the destroying the busses at a distance.

Page 70

A BEAUTIFUL small full-length on board, of a very young lady, in the dress of the time of Vandyk. The figure is in height only seven inches. It is beautifully copied in oil, after that great master, probably by Russel, who is mentioned by the noble author of the Anecdotes of Painting, vol. ii. p. 6.

* 2.20TWO beautiful half-length portraits of Charles I. and his beau|teous queen, both profiles, finely painted. They are called Vandyk's, but I suspect the artist. Charles in black, with one hand playing with his ribbon. Henrietta is in white, lightly hold|ing her mantle.

* 2.21THERE is besides the same royal pair in one piece, three-quar|ters length, small, evidently by Vandyk. The king is in a light red jacket, laced with silver; she in white, a favorite dress with her majesty, and presenting to him a wreath of laurel. She ap|pears pregnant. They are charmingly painted. The dress of the king is the same as the portrait I mentioned at p. 19, only mine is red, laced with gold.

* 2.22DISPERSED in different rooms are twelve small heads of Charles II. and his beauties.

* 2.23IN the windows of the dining-room are several honorary me|morials of alliances, or of great men, friends of the family, per|petuated by their coats of arms in stained glass.

* 2.24THE first is of Sir Orlando Bridgeman, a person eminent for his piety and charity, in the reign of Charles I. and his successor. He was employed on the part of the king as one of the com|missioners at the treaty of Uxbridge, but fell under some censure in shewing a disposition to make concessions in church affairs,

Page 71

which were disagreeable to his majesty. Yet lord Clarendon, in his own Life, i. 176. attributes them more to a timidity of disposition than to any ill design. At the Restoration he was successively made chief baron of the exchequer, chief justice of the common pleas; and at length lord-keeper of the great seals. He ended his days in 1674.

THE arms of Cadifod ap Dyfnwal, quartered with several coats of arms of the great men in South Wales.

James earl of Derby, his arms quartered with those of his gallant Charlotte de la Tremouille.

SIR Thomas Savage, baronet, afterwards created viscount Sa|vage, by James I.; and in 1639, on the death of his father-in-law lord Darcie, viscount Colchester, became earl Rivers.

ARMS of the Mostyns and Wynnes of Gwydir.

THE Grosvenours and Mostyns, in memory of the marriage of Sydney Mostyn, eldest daughter of the old Sir Roger Mostyn, with Sir Richard Grosvenour, of Eyton, baronet.

Mostyn and Whitelock, occasioned by the marriage of Sir Thomas Mostyn, of Kilken, knight, eldest son of the old Sir Roger Mostyn, with Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir James Whitelock, knight, one of the puisne judges of the king's bench in 1620, and sister to the famous historian.

Francis earl of Bedford.

Thomas Egerton, baron Ellesmere. See his origin in my Tour in Wales, vol. i. p. 109.

John Williams, bishop of Lincoln. These arms have, quartered with his own, those of the see of Lincoln, which shew that they must have been put up before he was removed to the see of

Page 72

York, in 1641. Probably all the others were put up at the same time.

* 2.25IN 1570 William Moston (for till the time of his son, Sir Thomas Mostyn, knight, that was the manner in which the name was spelt) meditated a design of building a new house. By what he executed it appears to have been planned in form of a quadrangle, the old house to have been rebuilt, and to have formed the centre, the other three sides to have been the offices. He finished only one, which from the great gate-way in the middle bears to this day the name of Porth mawr.

THE date is expressed in this manner: ANNO MUNDI 5552. W. M. 1570. If I may compare small things with great, my house at Bychton was rebuilt, and my house at Merton Uchlan was also built in the same year; so it seems to have been an improving age.

* 2.26AT one end of this building is the library, a room most un|worthy of the valuable collection of manuscripts and books it contains. Few, if any, can boast of the number or beauty of the first, especially the illuminated; and I suspect that the num|ber, rarity, and value of the antient classics, medallic histories, gems, and variety of every species of polite literature, is without parallel. They are of the scarcest editions, and printed by the most esteemed printers. I am indebted to Mr. Edward Clarke, A. M. of Jesus college, Cambridge, for a select catalogue of the most valuable manuscripts and books. The articles mentioned are attended with our joint notes; but my share must candidly be confessed to have been the smallest. Mr. Clarke may be said to be a scholar, ex traduce. His mother

Page 73

was daughter to the Rev. Dr. William Wotton, famous for having given a translation of the laws of Howel Dda. His grandfather, WILLIAM CLARKE, M. A. was still more eminent. He assisted Wotton in his labors, by a most learned and elegant Latin preface to the Leges Wallicae. But his name will be for ever delivered to posterity for his celebrated treatise, The Connection of the Roman, Saxon, and English Coins, printed in 1767, by his friend Mr. William Bowyer. Neither must I be silent in respect to Mr. Clarke's father, who favored the world with a very ingenious ac|count of Spain, where he had resided some time under the patro|nage of the earl of Bristol, the British minister at the court of Madrid.

THE late Sir Thomas Mostyn may be said to have been the founder of the library. In the old catalogue (for Mr. Clarke has formed a most complete new one) is written, in Sir Thomas's own hand, the following very unnecessary apology: Satius est etiosum esse quam nihil agere!

AT Gloddaeth is another large library,* 2.27 consisting chiefly of old English history, and very valuable Welsh MSS. collected by Sir Roger Mostyn, grandfather to the present baronet.

Manuscripts, &c. in the Mostyn Library.

Arms of Illustrious Families of France,* 2.28 beginning with the Comte d'Auvergne, the houses, and castles, and coats of arms, illuminated. Fol. Vel. illum.

Account of the Rebellion in North and South Wales, in the last Century, quarto. It begins in 1642, and ends in 1656. Part

Page 74

is written in Welsh. It appears by several passages to have been written by a native of Dolgelli.

Biblia Sacra Antiqua. Quarto, vel. slightly illuminated. In most curious small gothic letter.

Of the magnificent MS. 'Boccace des nob. & illust. Femmes,' Foll. vell. illum. it should be observed that the illuminations, in point of beauty and number, exceed any thing of the kind. The principal illumination or frontespiece is a representation of our first parents in the garden of Eden. The Deity is here pourtrayed in the papal robes, with the tiara on his brow, handing Eve out of Adam's side. Two angels in white sur|plices support his train, which is of blue and gold. The garden is enclosed by the walls and windows of a gothic cathedral.

TOWARDS the end of the volume is a representation of Pope Joan's accouchement in the public streets of Rome, in her way to the Lateran church, between the Coliseum and St. Clement's church, attended by two cardinals, preceded by a white friar, and followed by a numerous concourse of mob. This cele|brated Popess (if such there ever was) is said to have been a German girl, who had assumed the habit of our sex, went to Athens to study, and made such a progress as to be the asto|nishment of every body. By what steps she rose to the papacy I am not told. She attained it in 853, and discharged all the duties of it under the name of John VIII. She unfortunately proved a frail mortal. Her holiness had an intrigue, and the consequences appeared as related. Unable to bear the shame, she died on the spot. This affair gave occasion to a thousand controversies: which side had the right is little worth enquiry. Mr. Misson enters deeply into it, see vol. ii. p. of his Travels.

Page 75

He takes the affirmative part, and gives us an engraving of the fa|mous chair (see tab. vii. p. 119) on which every pope, after the cruel deception, is obliged to sit. It has in the middle a hole like that of a selle-percée, on which the new pope is obliged to sit sans culottes, and the youngest deacon to make a report that his holiness has not imposed on the catholic world.

THE horrors of the various and barbarous modes of execution exhibited in most of the pages, take away the pleasure of exa|mining minutely this fine MS.

Comedia di Dante, fol. vell. illum. A most infernal MS. in gothic letters; the illuminations coarse, numerous as horrid; on every page devils are represented in all forms. Fancy seems exhausted. Done by the Fuseli of the time. Mr. Addison some|where observes that the devils of Dante and Tasso are made hor|rible by their horns, claws, and tails; Milton's by their evil pas|sions. I wish the reader could compare the deformity of the dae|mons in this MS. with the greater deformities occasioned by the evil passions which render detestable even the beauteous features of the fallen angels, painted by the admirable Westall for Mr. Boydel's Milton. It should seem as if the ideas of our great poet had transmigrated into our young painter, to give the present times the fulness of his conceptions.

Chroniques de Jean Froissart, en deux livres, avec figures. Folio, vell. illum.—A very fair and antient manuscript, with the history of every chapter curiously painted in gold and water-colors. It was written in Froissart's own time, or near it, and belonged to a Holland. The first lord Buckhurst made a present of it to Sir William Cecil. The arms of the Hollands are often painted

Page 76

in the initial letters, and in others the arms of the nobility men|tioned in the history.

THE frontespiece to this volume is a battle, with a town at a distance. The French appear victorious; their cavalry driving be|fore them that of the fugitive English. I compared the text of this valuable MS. with the French edition, printed at Lyons in 1559, and the famous translation by Sir John Berniers, lord Bourchier, done in 1525, and find both vary in language, but not in sense, from this manuscript. Another volume of the first and second books, equally beautiful, is to be found in the Gloddaeth library; which I thus describe in my Tour in Wales, ii. p. 337.

The frontespiece represents the author on his knees, in a blue man|tle, presenting his book to Edward III. A king of France, distin|guished by the fleurs-de-lis on his robes, holds a queen by the hand, who, from the arms of England, and the lions on her robe, seems to be queen Philippa, to whom Froissart was clerk of the closet. She holds by the hand a little boy, whose robe is also marked with the lions. This must have been Richard of Bour|deaux, her grandson, afterwards Richard II. A lady and several other figures appear in the piece.
—Mr. Simco, bookseller, in Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, had copy of this manuscript. It was dated on the back 'd'environ 1470.'

Decreta sac. Congregationis Concilii, tom. 7, quarto, in Italian, a common hand, ill-written.

De Arte Amandi, Ovid, vell. quarto.

Eusebii Glossarum Liber, vell. fol. gothic letters.

Evang. de Matthae, cum Expos. vell. fol. most curious gothic letter, slight but elegant illumination.

Page 77

Ellegia di Madonna Fiametta, fol.

Histoire des Roys de France, fol. vell. illuminated.

Histoire des quatre Roys de France, Charles V, VI, VII, & Lewis XI. Fol. vell. illum. only one large illumination, a battle: King Charles VII. mounted, driving an English body of cavalry before him: a town at a distance.

Herodiani Historiae, &c. Fol. superb vell. with beautiful ena|melled coins—a MS. matchless for elegance of the ornamental part of illumination, and equally so for the medals in rich gold, seemingly real, and as if lying on the paper. To the first letter of each chapter is prefixed one, with the reverse.

Il Nimfale in Versi, di Giov. Boaccio, 8vo.

Imperatoris Caesaris Maximiliani, de Vita sua, Comm. Quarto, superb illum. with a portrait of the emperor, and a view of his study.

Maximiliam I. was born in 1459. He first married, in 1477, Mary of Burgundy. After her death he married by proxy Ann of Bretagne: but Charles VIII. of France actually married her in person, and in consequence added her dominion to that of his successors. The illuminations are very beautiful. His own portrait is the first, sitting in a rich chair, at a table, with his pen in his hand. That of his christening is the next. In another he is instructed in the art of beleaguering. A fourth places him in his study, drawing figures astrological, calculating some great event. From the king to the cobler, every one was in those ages an astrologer.—Consult Sully, 410 edit. i. 78.81.382.530.

Page 78

ONE side of the study is filled with books, mostly clasped, with their faces outwards, the leaves gaily painted. Above Maximi|lian are his cross-bows, his bows and arrows, the instruments of the chace; and by them his art in music is expressed by the lute. On the floor is shewn the objects of his various studies. That of artillery, by two golden cannon. Of painting, by the grinding-stone for colors, and the pallet. Of husbandry, by a hoe. Of his skill in the arts of the carpenter and joiner, by the ax, plane, &c. &c. &c. Of the smith, by the iron anvil.—A more curious illu|mination is not to be found!

IN one or other of them are depicted the deeds of his busy life. His amusements in the chace are given in various draw|ings; such as that of the bear, the boar, the stag, the chamois, and ibex. The scenery of vast rocks and precipices, and the manner of the chasseurs overcoming all difficulties, make this a most curious delineation. There is one shewing him employed in falconry. Tilts ending most fatally, and as cruelly as shows of gladiators, next are exhibited. His marriage, and his being instructed in virtuous gallantry with the ladies of the court, and the maids of honor, all true Platonic lovers. Maximilian was also great in the field. Voltaire tells us that prince introduced the arms of the Macedonian phalnx; and in all the military illuminations, the long pike (eighteen feet in length) is introduced. In the midst of war he preserved his gallantry. A lady is represented at the entrance of his tent, like another Syfigambis, kneeling to this second Alexander, imploring his pity.—This was the virago sister of Egmond, duke of Gueldres, who, after his death, entered

Page 79

Venlo, and defended it valiantly against Maximilian, who soon reduced her to submit to his mercy.—Let this close his glorious life. I shall add no more than the conclusion: for in 1519, at the age of sixty, he quitted the mortal stage, the com|mon fate of emperors and their meanest subjects.

La Vie de Mons. Sevin, fol.—Francis Sevin, a learned Frenchman, one of the Academy Royal of Inscriptions, &c. at Paris, appoint|ed (in conjunction with l'Abbê Fourmont) to travel into Greece in search of antient MSS. He returned in 1730, and with such success, that he was rewarded with the place of keeper of the royal MSS. He was born in 1699, died in 1741, leaving be|hind numbers of learned memoirs, printed among those of the academy.

Lactantius Firmianus, 1663. fol. vell. the writing most ele|gant, like the finest type, in the manner of Aldus. One side of the margin is prettily illuminated with a fancy scroll; birds, &c.

Missale Vetus, 12mo. with curious musical notes.

Naldinaldii Florentini, Oratio de Laudib. Urbis, 4to, vell. most elegant writing, a thin octavo.

Officium beatae Mar. Virg. 4to. vell. with superb illum.

Seneca, fol. vell. From the library of Samuel Petit, of which are many others. This S. Petit was a celebrated minister of the Calvinist persuasion, and of French descent, whose parents had fled to Geneva from Paris, after the infamous massacre.

Sozomeni Historia, tom 2. fol. vell. most beautifully written, one border finely fancied.

Suetonius Mstus in Pergameno, per Cassium Parmensem, ad Fidem optimorum Codicum, 1469.

Page 80

S. Thomas de Rege Princip. 8vo. vell. in fine gothic letters. In|structions how princes should reign.

Suetonius. A beautiful MS. on vell. 4to.

Sidonius Apollinaris. 4to. vell. gothic letter.

Valerio Maximo Manuscripto, 8vo.

N. B.—There are moreover a variety of beautiful missals, all on vellum, and superbly illuminated. One as old as the year 1200; and many very curious Bibles.

THIS department is not to be left without mention of the most valuable illumination of a British library the pedegree of the family. This is rich in two. One is not less than forty-two feet long; which, after passing through the British and Saxon race of monarchs, pursues its purpose through the monarchs of Israel; reaches Noah and his ark, and finishes with Adam and Eve. Our bards were our heralds and genealogists. This must originally have been composed by one, who, I dare say, was in|finitely displeased that he was cruelly stopped in his progress by our first parents, and by the Mosaic account denying to him all power of extending his patron's lineage into that of the Pre-Adamites. The other pedegree (notwithstanding it is most beau|tifully illuminated) is scarcely worth mention, being a mere abridgment of the former, and not above twenty-two feet in length.

  • * 2.29Appiani Historiae Romanae. Folio, Venet. 1477.
  • Augustarum Imagines. 4to, Venet. 1558.
  • ...

Page 81

  • Apollonius Rhodius. Folio, ap. H. Steph. 1574.
  • Athenaeus. Folio, Venet. ap. Aldum, 1514.
  • Aretius in Pindarum. Folio, ap. le Preux, 1587.
  • Blondi Flavii Histor. ab inclinadone Imper. Rom. Very scarce. Folio, Venet. 1483.
  • Biblia Latina. Folio, R. Steph, 1546.
  • Biblia Latina. Folio, cura Junii, ap. Wechel, 1596.
  • Biblia Latina. Folio, R. Steph. 1545.
  • Catullus, Tibullus, Propertius, cum Not. 4to. Venet. 1500.
  • Catullus, Tibullus, Propertius, 8vo, Venet. ap. Aldum. 1502.
  • C. Plinii Secundi Novicomensis, Epist. Mediol. Folio, 1478.
  • Celtis Protucius de Mensura Carminum, &c. 4to. Nurem. 1487.
  • Ciceronis Opera. Folio. A curious and very old Edition, with|out date, printed at Rome.
  • Dionysius Halicarnassensis. Folio, ap. R. Steph. 1546.
  • Dionysius Halicarnassensis. Folio, ap. H. Steph. 1588.
  • Diodori Siculi, quae exstant. Folio, ap H. Steph. 1559.
  • Demosthenis Opera. Folio. Lutet. 1570.
  • Eustathius in Homerum. Folio. Tom. 4. Rom. 1550. Exemp. nitid.
  • Epigrammata Graeca, cum Not. var. Fol. ap. H. Steph. 1500.
  • Edictum Reginae Elizabethae, Londini promulgat. Nov. 29, 1591. & Andr. Philopatri Respons. ad idem. Very scarce, 8vo. 1593.
  • Esopus, cum Commentariis varius, 8vo. Davent. 1500. A very curious Edition, in black letter.
  • ...

Page 82

  • Hmeri Isias, Graecè, ex recognitione Micylli & Camerarii. m esdem Odyssea ex Interpret. Didymi, 2 vols. Folio, Bll, 1541.
  • Homen Opera omnia, quae exstant. Tom. duob. Folio, ap. Alum.
  • Horatius, cum quat. Comment. & Fig. Venet. 1509. Folio.
  • Il Petrarca. Edit. nitid. & rariss. Venet. Folio, 1473.
  • atis Opera. Folio, ap. Aldum.
  • Juvenalis Opera, cum Com. Calderini. Folio. Venet. ap. Bpt. de Tortis, 1485.
  • Juvenalis Opera, cum Comment. Britannici. Folio, 1503.
  • Juvenalis Opera. Folio, ap. Herb. 1507.
  • Justinus Historicus. Folio, Venet. 1497.
  • Landinus ad Horatium. Folio, Venet. 1483.
  • Livii Historia. Folio, ap. Aldum, 1566.
  • Luciani Opera. Folio, ap. Aldum, 1522.
  • Martialis Opera, cum Not. Calderini, Folio, Venet. 1482.
  • Novum Testamentum Syriacé. Ant. Plantin. 1575. 8vo.
  • Novum Testamentum Graecé. Exemp. rariss. Lutet. 8vo. p. Colinaeum, 1534.
  • Oratrum veterum Orationes, Gr. & Lat. H. Stephani, Folio, Exemp. nid. ap. H. Steph. 1575.
  • Ovidii Opera, ap. Vincent. Folio, 1480.
  • Persti Opera, cum Comment. Fontii. Folio, Venet. ap. Re|ld. de Novimag. 1482.
  • Poliphill Hypnerotomachia. The curious Edition, Cuts after a great I master; some say Raphael, vide De Bure. Folio.
  • ...

Page 83

  • Plinii Junioris Epistolae, per Beroaldum correctae. 4to. Bonon. 1498.
  • Platina de Vit. Pontificum. Folio, Nuremb. 1481.
  • Politiani Opera. Folio, Venet. 1498.
  • Pausanias. Folio, ap. Aldum.
  • Platonis Opera quae exstant omnia. Gr. & Lat. Folio, Tom. ap. H. Steph. 1578.
  • Poetae Graeci Principes. Folio, ap. H. Steph. 1566.
  • Senecae Opera omnia. Folio, Venet. ap Ber. de Cois, Edit. rariss. 1492.
  • Silius Italicus, cum Comment. Pet. Marti. Venet. ap. Bapt. de Tortis, 1483. Folio.
  • Suetonius. Folio. Mediol. 1475.
N. B.—To this very scarce and valuable Edition of Suetonius, a note in manuscript, signed P. A. OR. or Pet. A. Orlandus, has been subjoined, in the beginning of the volume, with these remarkable words: Caius Suetonius Tranquillus, tempore Trajani et Hadriani floruit circa annum ab orbe redempto CXII. historicus emendatissimus et candidissimus inter Histor. August. Scriptores clarus. Libros xii. de vitis et gestis xii. Caesarum scripsit, quo|rum editiones primae intra annum 1400. sunt sequentes: R••••ae 1470, in Aedibus Maximis, fol.—Romae, in Via Papae, sine nomine typographi, 1470. — Typographus autem fuit Uldericus Gllus, fol. Venetiis, 1471. — Per Nicolaum Jesion. fol. quae est praesens editio inter omnes clarior et nitidior.—Mediolari, 1475. per Philippum de Lavagna. fol. — Alia editio de anno 1480. sine loco et typographo,

Page 84

fol. sine commento.—Cum commento Sabellici, Venetiis, 1490, per Baptistam de Tortis, fol.—Cum commento Beroaldi, Bononiae, 1493, per Benedictum Hectoris, fol. Venetiis, 1493.—Per Bamianum de Mediolano, fol. cum notis Bercaldi, et Sabeilici, Venetiis, 1500.—Per Bartholomaeum, de Zanis. fol.—Alia editio antiqua videtur, sed est sine loco, anno, et typographo. fol. 'P. A. OR.'
  • Suetonius. Vit. Caesarum. Edit. nitidiss. & rariss. Folio. Nic. Jensson, 1471.
  • Terentius, cum Commentariis variis, et Figuris. Folio. Ar|gent. 1496.
  • Tullii Orationes, &c. Folio, Bonon. 1496.
  • Thucydides. Folio, ap. Aldum. 1502.
  • Themistii Opera omnia. Folio. Venet. ap. Aldum.
  • Terentius, ap. Aldum. 1504.
  • Virgilius, cum Notis var. & Figuris. Folio, Venet. ap. Bon. 1558. Rariss.
  • Vetus Testamentum. Folio, Rom. 1587.
  • Virgilii Opera, cum Annot. Guell. Fol. Plantin. 1575. A fine Copy.
  • Virgilii Opera. Folio. Venet. 1544.
  • Zenophontis, quae exstant. Folio. ap Aldum.

TO this classical list let me add a modern edition of the BIBLE, remarkable for its magnificence, but more so for a singular erratum. It was printed by Basket, at the Clarendon

Page 85

press, in 1717, in two vast volumes. It is adorned with a frontes-piece, and various head-pieces, from paintings by Sir James Thornhill, and others, engraven by Vander Gutch, de Bosche, &c. The ridiculous mistake is in the running-title to the twentieth chapter of St. Luke; in which 'Parable of the vineyard' is printed 'Parable of the vinegar;' and on that account the edition is better known by the name of the Vinegar Bible, than any other.

Antiquities in the Mostyn Library.

BRONZES.

1. Isis nursing the infant Orus, a figure six inches in height.* 2.30 For a description of which see Montfaucon, vol. ii. chap. 5. pl. 113. fig. 2.

2. A FEMALE figure rising from the bath,* 2.31 adjusting her hair before a mirror, which she holds in her right hand, while the left is employed in arranging her waving tresses. The legs of this beautiful little bronze have been restored. The rest of the figure is remarkable for its symmetry and elegance.

3. THE eagle of Jupiter, with extended pinions,* 2.32 retaining the thunder in its claws. This has been suspended as a vow at the shrine of that deity. The same figure often occurs upon the antient lamps, as will be shewn hereafter. Montfaucon has given

Page 86

an exact representation of this figure in vol. i. pl. 154. It there forms the principal ornament of a bronze lamp; and over it is this inscription:

L.

TETIUS

ALYPUS.

JOVI. D. D.

* 2.334. IMAGE of Osris, the tutelar deity of the Nile; according to Mr. Bruce, the personified representation of the dog-star. For an account of this god, see Montfaucon, tom. ii. chap. 8.

* 2.345. THE PHALLUS, certainly intended as a pendant for the ear. With the ancients it was a symbol of secundity. Herodotus mentions its having been carried in solemn procession at the sacrifices of Bacchus. Athenaeus speaks of one carried in this manner, which was twenty cubits long, and formed entirely of gold. It was moreover adorned with garlands, which were twined round to its vertex, where was a golden star, six cubits in circumference. See Athen. lib. v. c. 5. At Isernia, a province in the kingdom of the two Scilies, the women annually celebrate the anniversary of their patron saint, by offering at his shrine ex voto of wax, represent|ing the male organs of generation, which they style St. Cosmus's toes. Sir W. Hamilton addressed a letter to the Dilettanti society upon this curious circumstance, which he accompanied with dif|ferent specimens of the usual offerings! This letter gave birth to a very learned and ingenious essay, by Mr. Knight, on the ancient worship of Priapus, written at the request of the society! and partially distributed for their use! In the course of this work

Page 87

Mr. Knight thus expresses himself:

Whatever the Greeks and Egyptians meant by the symbol in question, it was certainly nothing ludicrous or licentious; of which we need no other proof than its having been carried in solemn procession, at the celebration of those mysteries, in which the first principles of their religion, the knowledge of the God of nature, the FIRST, the SUPREME, the INTELLECTUAL (v. Plut. de ls. & Os.) were preserved from the vulgar superstitions, and com|municated under the strictest oaths of secrecy to the initiated; who were obliged to purify themselves, prior to their initiation, by abstaining from venery, and all impure food.

I FIND this detestable worship among the Gentoos in Indostan. Captain Alexander Hamilton, in his account of the East Indies, i. p. 381, gives the following relation:

In all this tract between Gamgam and Jagarnaut, the visible god in most esteem is Go|palsami, whose temples are decorated with obscene representa|tions of men and women in indecent postures, also of demons and caco-demons, whose shameful parts are of a prodigious size, in proportion to their bodies. This filthy image is worshipped by the heathens of both sexes; but barren women are his greatest devotees, and bring him the best oblations.

6. THE HOG-SKIN * 2.35—A vow to Bacchus.* 2.36—The custom of preserving wine in hog-skins is still observed in Spain, and many other parts of the world. The antients retained the form of it in their domestic utensils, and vessels of libation, long after the se of it had been superseded by the more convenient amphora.

Page 88

* 2.377. AN instrument of sacrifice, by some falsely called a patera. Montfaucon has proved that these instruments, round, flat, having no cavity to contain the liquor, are not paterae. Beger supposes them to be what Isidorus calls apophereta, which were used as plates to hold fruit and other viands.

Apophereta, a ferendo poma vel aliud, nominata; est enim plana.
See Mont|faucon, tom ii. pl. 63. fig. 2.

THE paterae were very different from those designed for festive purposes. The latter were rich goblets, or a species of tankard. Montfaucon has, in vol. iii. part 1. p. 146, to p. 149, engraven several kinds. Virgil, in describing Dido's royal feast, says,

Implevit mero pateram.
After the fair queen had made a delicate libation, she pre|sented the goblet to the jovial Trojan, Bitias, who drank it up at one tip. The Poet describes it most humorously and em|phatically:
Tum Bite dedit increpitans: ille impiger hausit, Spumantem pateram, et pleno se proluit auro.

* 2.388. A SPECULUM, or mirror, of some metallic substance, at this day retaining a polish equal to the first telescope reflector. Bishop Watson, in his Chemical Essays, vol. iii. p. 335, has given a pretty comment on the composition of these specula. 'Cop|per,' says the ingenious prelate,

communicates a smell both to gold and silver. The Roman specula, which they used as looking-glasses in Pliny's time, were commonly made of silver; but the silver was alloyed with much copper; for we

Page 89

find a cunning waiting-maid in Plantus, advising her mistress to wipe her fingers after having handled a speculum, least her paramour should suspect her of receiving silver from some other lover:
Ut speculum tenuisti, metue ne oleant argentum manus, Ne usque argentum te accipisse suspicitur Philolocles.

9. THE STRIGIL, a crooked instrument for scraping the muscles.* 2.39 It was in high request among the Romans. Montfaucon gives the figures of several. Among others, he has pourtrayed a man of rank in the bath, while two boys are seen on each side of him, using the strigil. This instrument is very common on all the Greek vases, and is always represented among the ceremonies of the bath.

10. A COMB, exactly resembling those now in use. This also formed a necessary article among the bathing apparatus.* 2.40

11. A SMALL spice-box; of the same nature as those found at Pompeia.

12. A BRACELET for the arm.* 2.41 These are frequently found in Greek sepulchres; and in the excavations at Herculaneum and Pompeia.

13. AN intaglio ring, beaded round; the work very coarse,* 2.42 and altogether in the Egyptian style.

14. ARM of the Discobolus,* 2.43 in the act of throwing the dis|cus. I find the same sort of fragment mentioned in an old col|lection of antiquities, engraved at Rome in the year 1610; with this exception, that the latter is of marble:

Marmoreum bra|chium

Page 90

chium Discoboli, libratum pondus in ras mittentis.
—R. Antiq. Pa. Pet. C. R.

* 2.4415. A SMALL key connected to a beaded ring.

16, 17. Prefericula, as ex voto.

Lamps of Earthen Ware, Penates, &c.

* 2.451. A BEAUTIFUL Lamp, of the Nola clay, with an uncom|monly fine head of Jupiter Ammon, in mezzo relievo.

* 2.462. A DITTO, representing Jupiter supported by the eagle, with the thunder in its claw; the exact representation of this lamp is in Montfaucon, vol. v. pl. 154. Also in Bartoli's Lcerne Antiche, part ii. pl. 4. As Bartoli's account is short and satisfac|tory, I shall insert it:

Gieve pertato dell' Aquila. A questa figura di Giove portato in alto dall' Aquila, cello ad esso consecrato, altro non habbiamo da aggiungere, se non che 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Ro|mani dopo morte, nelia consecratione de o mperadori usunano questo honore, fingenda che e lro anime dall' Aquila fossino inal al cielo, & fra le fielle. Tale Ambitione indusse ancora huomini privati ad insire & deficare in to modo i lo Defonti, in habito, e culto divino, portati dall' Aquila al' Cielo.

* 2.473. A VERY curious lamp, with a small handle, representing, in alto relievo, two fighting cocks, each supported by a Genius. One of the cocks has evidently the advantage; his tutelar Genius is shouting the victory. The other Genius covers his face with

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
Lamp with the head of Jupiter 〈◊〉〈◊〉 on 〈…〉〈…〉

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
LCAESA

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
〈…〉〈…〉

Page 91

his hands, to hide a convulsive fit of tears, and the shame of being defeated. The expression in these two figures is asto|nishing. An elegant border surrounds the whole, and on the reverse of the lamp

L. CAESAR.
is stamped in very legible characters.

4. A SMALL lamp in Nola clay,* 2.48 with a horse in mezzo relievo.

5. A BEAUTIFUL lamp, of red clay,* 2.49 with a remarkably fine head in relief; representing a warrior, accompanied by an instru|ment of sacrifice.

6. A FIGURE of Isis, one of the Egyptian Penates,* 2.50 carved in stone, and covered with hieroglyphics.

7. A SIMILAR figure, formed of blue antique paste,* 2.51 of the same kind which the ancients used in their Mosaics, known to Italians by the name of fritta. This figure is also covered with hieroglyphics.

TO these may be added others, which I have described in the first volume of my Tour in Wales. Those which are foreign, are several marbles brought from Narbonne, the Narbo Martius.* 2.52 It is one of the most ancient cities in Gaul, for it was a flourishing place two hundred and eighty years before the Christian era. A Roman colony was established there in the time of Marcius Rex, from whom it received its addition. It is full of antiquities, which have been used in the various modern buildings. Those in question came from the walls of the archbishop's palace; and were brought here by the late Sir Thomas Mostyn. The en|graving,

Page 92

with the inscriptions, taken from the 2d volume of my Tour, gives a full idea of these funebrial memorials.

* 2.53THE golden torques, that invaluable morsel in possession of this family, was found by digging in a garden near to Harlech castle in 1692. It is well described by Camden, as a wreathed rod of gold, about four feet long, with three spiral furrows, with sharp intervening ridges running its whole length to the ends, which are plain, truncated, and turn back like pot-hooks. Whether this was purely Roman, or whether it might not have been common to both nations, I will not dispute. The use was that of a baldric, to suspend gracefully the quiver of men of rank, which hung behind, by means of the hook; and the golden wreath crossed the breast, and passed over the shoulder. Virgil, in his beautiful description of the exercises of the Trojan youth, expresses the manner, in these frequently misconstrued lines:

Cornea bina ferunt: praeixo hastilia ferro: Pars leves umer pharetras: ait pectore summo Flexilis obtrti per collum circulus auri.
Each brandishing aloft a cornel spear: Some on their backs their burnish'd quiver bore, Hanging from wreaths of gold, which shone before.

THE torch, or torques, worn by the Gauls and Britons, was a very different affair, a collar of gold, or other metal, worn round the neck. Our heroine Boadicea had a great one of that precious metal; and Virdomaerus wore round his neck another, fastened behind with hooks, which fell off when the conqueror cut off his head.

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
AN APOPHERETA.

Page 93

Illi virgatis jaculanti ex agmine braccis Torquis ab incisa decidi unca gula.

Manlius acquired the addition of Torquatus, from a torques which he won from a Gaul, whom he flew in single combat, in sight of the army; and Publius Cornelius, after the slaughter of the Boii, took, among other spoils, not fewer than four thousand and seventy golden torques.

THEY were also in use among the Romans, who bestowed them as military rewards; and, as Pliny pretends, the golden on the auxiliaries, the silver on the citizens. They probably were made in several ways. I have seen a very beautiful one (I think at present in possession of the Rev. Mr. Prescot, of Stockport) composed of several links of silver wire, most elegantly twisted together: it was long enough to go twice round the neck, and had clasps which fastened it on.

THE custom of wearing the torques was continued from the more remote periods of Britain, to later times. Llewellyn, a lord of Yale, was called Llewelyn aur Dorchog,

Llewelyn, with the golden torques,' on that account; and the common proverb, Mi a dynna'r dorch a chwi, I will pluck the torques with you,
signifies to this day, a hard struggle of a person before he would yield a victory.

THE next antiquity is, as to material, British;* 2.54 as to its destina|tion, Roman. I refer to the cake of copper smelted at the antient Conovium, the modern Caer-bên, near to Conwy, which probably was smelted from the ore of the Snowdon hills, where of late years much has been got. This mass is in shape of a cake of bees|wax:

Page 94

on the upper part is a deep concave impression, with the words 'Seo Romae, To my partner at Rome:' across these is im|pressed obliquely, in lesser letters, Naol. I cannot explain it, unless N stands for Na, the people who paid this species of tbute, and sol for 〈◊〉〈◊〉, that being the stamp-master's mark. These cakes might be bought up by a merchant resident in Britain, and consigned 〈…〉〈…〉, 'to his partner at Rome.' The weight of this antiquity is forty-two pounds; the diameter of the upper part eleven inches; the thickness in the middle two and three quarters.

* 2.55THE silver harp is purely British, both as to the metal, and the use; which, with the commission for holding an Eisteddfod, or sessions of bards, at Cawis, in 1568, is still in possession of Sir Roger Mostyn. The harp from time immemorial had been in the gift of his ancestors, to give as a temporary mark of excel|lency on the chief of the faculties, or those who had excelled in their different ways, poetical or musical. I shall only pre|sent the reader with the copy of the patent to Sir Richard Bulkeley, knight, and to William Moston, and many others. William Moston is the gentleman mentioned at p. 72. This commission is in some measure historical: but the reader who wishes for a fuller account of the isteddfod, may gratify his curiosity by turning to p. 457, and from thence to p. 478, of the first volume of my Tour in Wales. The commission is as follows:

ELIZABETH, by the grace of God, of England, Fraunce, and Ireland, Quene, defendor of the fayth, &c.

to our trustie and

Page 95

ryght wel-beloved Sr Richard Bulkley, Knight, Sr Rees Gruffuth, knight, Ellice Price, equior, doctor in cyvill lawe, and one of our counsail in our marches of Wales, William Mostyn, Jovan Lloyd of Yale, John Salisbury of Ruge, Rees Thomas, Maurice Wynne, Willm Lewis, Peres Mostyn, Owen John ap Holl Vaughan, John Willm ap John, John Lewis Owen, Moris Gruffyth, Symound Thelwall, Ellice ap Willm Lloyd, Rob Puleston, Harry Aparry, William Glynne, and Rees Hughes, esquiors, and to every of them greating.

—WHERAS it is come to the knowledge of the lorde president, and other or said counsail, in or marches of Wales, that vagraunt and idle psons, naming themselfs mynstrells, rithmors, and bar|thes, are lately growen into such an intollerable multitude wthin the principalitee of Northwales, that not only gentlemen, and others, by theire shameles disorders, are oftentimes dis|quieted in their habitac̄ons; but also thexpert mynstrells and mucisions in toune and contry therby much discouraged to travail in thexercise and practize of their knowledge; and also not a litle hyndred in theire lyvings and pfermts. The reformac̄on whereof, and the putting of these people in ordr, the said lorde president and counsail have thought verey ne|cessarye; and knowing you to be men both of wysdome and upright dealing, and also of experience and good knowledge in the scyence, have apointed and authorised you to be com|missioners for that purpose. And forasmuch as or counsail of late, travayling in some pte of the said principalitee, had {per}fect understanding, or credible report, that thaccustomed place for thexecuc̄on of the like comssyon, hath bene her|tofore

Page 96

at Carcyes, in our countie of Flynt, and that William Most, esquio, and his ancest, have had the gyfte and be|stowing of the sylver harpe ap{per}tayning to the cheff of that facultie, and that a yeares warning at the least hath bene ac|customed to be geaven of thassembly, and execuc̄on of the like commissyon. Our said counsail have, therfore, apoynted thexecuc̄on of this commyssyon to be at the said towne of Cartyes, the Monday next aft{er} the feast of the blessed Trynitee, wch shall be in the yeare of or Lorde God 1568.

AND therfore we require and command you, by the autho|ritee of these {pre}sents, not only to cause open {pro}clamac̄ons to be made in all ffayors, mrketts, townes, and other places of assembly wthin our counties of Anglize, Carnrvon, Meyryonneth, Denbigh, and Fflynt, that all on evry {per}son & {per}sons that entend to maynteigne theire lyvings by name of color of myn|strells, rithm̄rs, or barthes, within the Talaith of Aberfiowe, comphending the said fyve shires, shal be and appeare before you the said day and place, to shewe theire learnings accord|ingly: but also that you xx••e, xixen, xviiien, xviien, xvien, xven, xiven, xiiien, xiie, xin, xen, ix, viii, vii, or vi. of you whereof youe Sr Richard Bulkley, Sr Rees Gruffith, Ellice Price, and Wm Mostyn, esquiors, or iiiee, or ii. of you, to be of the nombr to repayre to the said place the day aforsaid, and calling to you such expert men in the said facultie of the Welshe musick, as to you shall be thought convenient to {pro}ceade to thexecuc̄on of the {per}missn, and to admytt such and so many as by your wisdomes and knowledges, you shall fynde worthy into and undr the degrees heretofore in semblable sort, to use,

Page 97

exercise and folowe the scyences and facultes of theire {pro}fessyons in such decent ordr as shall ap{per}taigne to eche of their degrees, and as yor discrec̄ons and wisdomes shall {pre}scribe unto them, geaving straight monycons and comaundm, in or name and on or behalf, to the rest not worthy, that they returne to some honest labor, and due excercise, such as they be most apte unto for mayntenaunce of theire lyvings, upon paine to be taken as sturdy and idle vacaboundes, and to be used according to the lawes and statutes {pro}vided in that behalf, letting you wyth or said counsaill look for advertisemt by due certificate at youre handes of yor doings in thexecuc̄on of the said {per}missn. For seeing in any wise that upon the said assembly the peas and good order be observed and kept accordingly, assertayning you that the said Willm Mostyn hath {pro}mised to see furnyture and things necessary {pro}vided for that assembly, at the place afor|said.

Geven under or signet, at or citie of Chester, the xxiiith of October, the nynth yeare of or raigne.

Signed her Highnes counsaill in the mrches of Wales.

FINALLY, in the library, is a most exquisite drawing upon vellum, of the crucifixion, done with a lead pencil, twenty-two inches by fifteen. It formerly hung in the approach to the chapel, and was brought there by the lady of Sir Thomas Mostyn, the second baronet. That lady, as I have before mentioned, was a Roman catholic, and placed it where it was originally found, to exalt her devotion. The drawing was made after a piture by Rubns, as the inscription shews, P. P. Rubens pin. The

Page 98

copyist was David Leggn, a celebrated engraver of his time, about the year 1677, and remarkable for the neatness of his drawings of heads in black-lead * 3.1. On his drawing at Mostyn is 'D. L. dein.' The expression of agony in the countenance of our dying SAVIOUR, is remarkably striking; and the head, and every part of the drawing, is finished with all the accuracy of the finest miniature painting.

OF the seven churches in the hundred of Coleshill, part of the Sn disros, Wisford, as it is called in the Doomsday Book, is one. The name was changed to Whiteford, of derivation un|known. In the Doomsday Book notice is also taken of some of the present townships, such as Tre-Mostyn, Tre-Bychton, and Mton, under the names of Mostone, Widford, Putecaine, and Mertone. Mstone was then a plough-land, terra unius carucae. It had on it four villeyns and eight boors; (Bordarii) a wood a league long, and forty perches (perticatae) broad, and was valued at twenty shillings.

Widford is joined with Putecaine, the first seems to have com|prehended our present Trelan, or the place where the church-village now stands. These had one plough land, two villeyns, and twelve others between men and maid servants, fisheries, and a wood half a mile long, and forty perches broad; the value was the same with that of Mostone.

WITH Mereton is joined the third part of Widford, and the Berewicha, or hamlet of Caldecote, the last at present a township of the parish of Holywell. In this division was a presbyter, a church, and six villeyns. Here was a wood half a mile long, and twenty perches broad. One Odin held these of the earl.

Page 99

THE church stands in the township of Tre lan.* 3.2 It is dedi|cated to St. Mary; so popular was that Saint, that thirteen churches in our country were placed under her patronage, and thirteen wakes kept on that day. The living is a rectory, a sine|cure, which, with the vicarage, is in the gift of the bishop of St. Asaph. The church consists of a nave, with a good plain tower-steeple. It has besides a side aile, built by a Blithyn Drow, of the house of Mostyn, to whom that part belongs.

DIVINE service is performed every Sunday, alternately in Welsh and in English. At the first the congregation is very nume|rous, and at all times truly serious and devout. The dress of even the poorest, neat and whole, and very unlike the squalid ragged figures, too frequently seen in the congregations of many a southern county.

OFFERINGS at funerals are kept up here, and I believe in all the Welsh churches. A disgusting, and in cases in which the deceased may have died of an infectious distemper, a dan|gerous custom, often prevales, of the corpse being brought into church during divine service, and left there till the congregation is dismissed.

THAT excellent memento to the living, the passing-bell, is punctually sounded. I mention this, because idle niceties have in great towns often caused the disuse. It originated before the Reformation, to give notice to the priest to be ready to do the last duty of extreme unction to the departing person, in case he had no other admonition. The canon (67) allows one short peal after death, one other before the funeral, and one other after the funeral. The second is still in use, and is a single bell

Page 100

s ed. The third is a merry peal, rung at the request of the s; 〈◊〉〈◊〉 if 〈◊〉〈◊〉 like, they reioiced at the escape of the departed out of thi troublesome world.

BELL-CORN is a small perquisite belonging to the clerk of certain parishes. I cannot learn the origin.

* 3.3HANGING up against the wall is an imperfect table of bene|fators. The annal revenue in interest and land is 68 l. yet the poor's rates are alarmingly high. In the beginning of the pre|sent century poor rates had not taken place. Collections were made in the church for the sick and the aged. Filial piety had at that time f possession of the breasts of the children, or great affection the part of more distant relations, and the pangs of pverty were as much as possible alleviated. There was also a laudable p in them, which made them above suffering their friends to be a burden to their fellow parishioners; all this gra|dually ceased, and the warmth of natural affection soon quite dis|appeared. I cannot but mention an instance of the rapid increase of taxes in my days. In the year 1756 William Lloyd, smith, was one of the overseers of the poor; at that time the annual tax was only 6 〈◊〉〈◊〉. 3 c. 1 d. He was appointed again overseer in the year 17••••, when the tax was increased to 600l. William Lloyd is now living, but the books prove the exactness of the assertion.

* 3.4IN the village is the school. It was founded by Mary Brad|shaw, widow of Thomas Williams, of Mostyn Gate, who bequeathed by will, dated 1745, the interest of 141l. to be paid to the mas|ter of the said school, for instructing for ever, annually, fourteen children, who are instructed in reading and writing English, and

Page 101

accounts. The present school-house was built by Pyers Jones, an opulent farmer of this parish, who also bestowed a very hand|some brass chandelier on the church.

IN this and a few other of the mineral parishes,* 3.5 is a Cymdei|thos, or club, instituted in 1766, for the support of the members in case of illness, or any accidents, provided they are not con|tracted by intemperance, fighting, or any immoral act. Our club consists of 240 members, each of whom contributes monthly 8d. which is put into a box locked with three keys; two are kept by the stewards, and the third by the person to whom the box is intrusted, so that all three must be present at the taking out or putting in of any money. The club has been of late years for|tunate enough to have saved three hundred pounds, which is put out on good security, and kept in reserve against any calamitous times, such as seasons of sickness, or uncommon successions of accidents.

IN case of illness a certain allowance is made till the time of their recovery, or till they are deemed incurable. In the last case they are allowed two shillings and six pence for life. In case of death forty shillings is paid for funeral expences, and a sum to the widow proportionable to the time the husband had been member of the club.

WHENEVER the business requires a meeting, the steward must bring with him the tankard of ale, and a very small cup, in or|der that the members may not exceed the bounds of temperance.

IF any member comes to the club in liquor, he forfeits two-pence; if he speaks ill of government, or abuses any body, or curses and swears, or will not hold his tongue when required by

Page 102

the stewards, he forfeits two-pence for every offence. In a word, every caution is observed to preserve the rules of morality in this our parocal society. Finally, there is a great annual meeting on New-Year's Day, in which every member attends. Every one appears neatly dressed, carrying a wand gally painted, and make altogether a most respectable figure, ranged in two lines from the porch door to that of the church.

I STEP into the church-yard, and sigh over the number of departed which fll the inevitable retreat. In no distant time the north side, like those of all other Welsh churches, was, through some superstition, to be occupied only by persons exe|cuted, or by suicides. It is now nearly as much crowded as the other parts. The most remarkable inscription is on a head-stone set up by myself.

* 3.6HERE lyeth the dy of C M, otherwise Gos. who during sixty years, to the best of her ab discharged the duties of a good and faithful servant in the family o By, died August 3d, 1767, aged 106.

THIS Ante-dian was one of those characters misnamed fools, a mixture of weakness, with much acuteness and strong expressions, often highly diverting to the company. The addi|tion to her name of Gr was from her coming from Cors-y-gedol, in Merie, into our service.

ON an old altar-tomb, on the south-side of the church, is the following inscription:

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
WHITEFORD CHURCH. CELLI CHAPEL. 〈…〉〈…〉

Page 103

Hic jacet corpus Nicolai Pennant, filii Hugonis ap Rees ap Dafydd Pennant, de Bychton, ex Jonetae, filiae Ricardi ap Howel, de Mostyn. Sepultum vicessimo-sept. die Martis, A. D. 1601. Cuj. An. DEUS propit. Esto, miserere, Amen.

THIS distant uncle was a younger son of Hugh Pennant,* 3.7 and one of twelve children by Sionet Mostyn (See p. 26) one of the five daughters of the valiant Howel ap Richard de Mostyn, who led his countrymen to Bosworth-field, and received the honor|able reward I mentioned, at p. 58.

BY the remains of Nicolas Pennant are deposited those of my late worthy servant Louis Gold.* 3.8 What I never with to be done for myself, I did for him, I placed a small brass within the church, with an inscription expressed in the following terms:

This small Monument of esteem was erected by his lamenting Master in Memory of LOUIS GOLD, a Norman by Birth, and above twenty years the faithful Servant and Friend of THOMAS PENNANT, Esq of Downing.

In his various services he made considerable savings, which he disposed of by his last will (having no relations of his own) with affection to his friends and to his fellow-servants, with unmerited gratitude to his Master and his family, and with piety to the poor.

Page 104

Every duty of his humble station, and every duty of life, He discharged so fully, That when the day shll come which levels all distinction of ranks, He may, By the favor of our blessed Mediator, hear these joyful words, "Well done, thou good and faithful servant, enter thou into the joy of thy Lord." He was born at St. Hermes de Rouvelle in Normandy, August 22, 1717; died at Downing, August 20, 1785; and was interred in the Church-yard near this wall on the 22d of the same month.

The wealth which Louis had acquired was considerable. Above sixteen hundred pounds passed through my hands. He had be|sides a thousand pounds, which a setter to an attorney prevaled on the good man to sink with the man of the law for an an|nuity. Death soon put the lawyer in possession of the principal. I lament this; for I had been left by him residuary legatee and sole executor, with a power to dispose of the remainder (all legacies paid) in charitable uses. Thus a thousand pounds were lost to Whiteford parish. The interest of the remainder is quarterly divided among the worthiest of our poor, who may annually bless so excellent a benefactor.

Louis was bred a Roman catholic, and notwithstanding he occa|sionally frequented the prayers of our church, he chose to be buried according to the rites of those of Rome, which were per|formed

Page 105

in a room in my house. He left twenty pounds to the gentleman who performed the service. I fixed on the Re|verend Philip Jones, who had in this neighborhood near fifty years discharged his function in a manner truly exemplary. I took up the old custom of attending a faithful friend to his grave, a respect the excellency of his conduct clamed from me.

NEAR to the tomb of Nicolas Pennant, is another in memory of Hugh Pennant, son and heir of Robert Pennant, of Downing, (see p. 9.) who was buried August 16th, 1675, with this best of cha|racters:

He lived honestly, and hurt nobody. He gave every one his due.

NEAR to this place, tumbled on the ground,* 3.9 is a stone in memory of a Pierce of Ysglan, in this parish, a respectable family now extinct, descended from Ednowen Bendew. The crest of this family is a boar's head marked with a crescent, a sign of its having been a second branch. On a board I have of the arms of the house, I see it had been allied with numbers of reputable families, among others I venture to reckon that of Bychton.

I MIGHT mention other tombs of the men of property in our parish, who in less luxurious times lived in hospitality, till, infected with those fiends luxury and ostentation, they soon became swallowed up in the greater estates.

BENEATH the venerable shade of two great yews,* 3.10 our Baucis and Philemon, is the tomb which preserves the memory of Mar|garet Parry, heiress of Merton, (see p. 52.) the seat of our hospi|table

Page 106

vicar, the Rev. Mr. John Foulkes. The epitaph gives the descent:

Hic jacet corpus Margarettae Parry, filiae The Parry, filn̄ heredis Gu. Parry, et nuper uxor Joh. Folkes, quae sepulta est 8 die Julii, 1667.
Hic jacet corpus Guilidmi Parry Wynne, de Mertyn isgl, Junii, et sepultus 19 die Junii, 1658. Id.

THIS at present is the tomb of the family of Mr. Foulkes, of Merton. On the top are cut, as I suppose, the arms of the fa|mily from whom he derives his right, quarterly for his first coat a stag, by which I imagine that the bearer derived his descent from Hedd Molwynog, lord of Uwch Aled, and one of the fifteen tribes, and cotemporary with Dafydd ap Owen Gwynedd. If the reader will give himself the trouble of turning to p. 56 of the second volume of my Welsh Tour, he will find a recital of the great deeds of the house.

* 3.11THE next is the place of interment of Peter Williams, of Mer|ton Ysglan, who died January 19th, 1671.

HIS arms shew him to have derived his descent from the above-mentioned Ednowen Bendew, quarterly with those of Edwyn, lord of Tegengl. The family fell to decay, and the part of the estate which lay in our parish was purchased by my father, and the name changed to that of Kinsale (see p. 52.) from the late owner having made that place his residence.

THE following quaint rhyme, on another grave-stone, may conclude with much propriety this part of the funebrial subject.

Vita caduca vale, Vita perennis ave!

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]

EERE TO THIS LYETH THE BODY OF ELIZABETH MOSTYN ONE OF THE COS OF RICH ALDERSAY OF THE CITIE OF CHESTER GEY WIFE TO WILL MOSTYN ARCH BANG A RECTOR OF CHRYSILTON BY WHOME HE HAD ISSVE THREE SONNES AND TWO DAVGHTERS SHE DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 10 OF APRIL ANNO DM 1••••••

Monument of Elizabeth Mostyn. 〈…〉〈…〉)

Page 107

I STEP within the church with reverential awe. Many pious men I have seen offer up at short ejaculation in our Welsh churches (even when alone) to the Almighty Being, to whose service they were founded, and in whose praise we all unite. A few monumental marks of respect are to be seen, and three on the north wall not inelegant.

ALL are small. The first has the figure of a man and woman kneeling on opposite sides of a desk. Two sons are behind the man, and three daughters behind the woman, in the same at|titudes. They are most neatly engraven on a tablet of white marble, and the whole included in a very neat frame. The in|scription gives their brief tale:

Neere to this lyeth the body of Elizabeth Mostyn, one of the Coheires of Rich. Aldersey of the Citie of Chester, Gent. Wife to Will. Mostyn, Arch. Bang. and Rector of Chrysilton. By whom he had issve three sonnes and two daughters. She de|parted this life the 10th of April, Ann. Dni. 1647.

TWO of the sons were heads of two families, those of Bryng|wyn, in Montgomeryshire, and those of Segroit, in Denhighshire.

THE next records the death of a son of Gwydyr. The arms of the house, three spread-eagles and three lions, are cut on the

Page 108

tablet. Above is the crest, and on the entablature, MORTUUS VIVO. The inscription follows:

Here lyeth interred the body of Ellici Wynn, the 9th son of Sir John Wynn, of Gwydyr, Knight and Baronet, aged xx, who died the xxth of 9ber, and was buried the xxiii of the said month, Ao. Domini 1619. Omnis caro foenum.
Conjoined with the last is the tablet of one of our vicars, neat, like the others, only his arms are cut on the stone; the epitaph beneath:
Near this place lieth interr|ed the body of Mr. Richard Ctmor, late Vicar of Whitford, and Rector of Aber, who died the xxvii day of July, MDCLXXXIIII, and was buri|ed the 3o, aetatis suae 42.
Richard Coytmore was one of the nineteen vicars who filled the living, from the year 1537. The following is the list of all the vicars, from that date to the present time:
  • David Lloyd, 1537.
  • Lwis ap John Al'gwin, 1562, deceased.
  • Hon. Mostyn, 1586, d.
  • Rice Hughes, 1591, resigned.
  • Tho. Kyffin, 1598, res.
  • Ed. Kyffin, 1601, res.
  • ...

Page 109

  • S Meredith, 1608, res.
  • Lewis Lloyd, 1617, d.
  • Wil. Mostyn, 1638, d.
  • Rice Powel, 1642.
  • Humf. Mostyn, 1653, depr.
  • Wil. Smith, 1661.
  • Rob. Edwards, 1666, res.
  • Wil. Roberts, 1666, resigned.
  • Rich. Coytmore, 1668, d.
  • Hugh Price 1686.
  • Edw. Davies, 1697, d.
  • Gr. Griffith, 1730, d.
  • John Foulkes, 1765.

THE vault of the Mostyn family is at the end of this aile.* 3.12 The last who was buried there was Sir Roger Mostyn, the first baronet, who died in 1651. His second lady, Mary, eldest daughter of Thomas, lord viscount Bulkley, was buried in the same vault. Her epitaph is preserved in our parish-register, and is as follows:

Nobilis Heroina ac Domina D. Maria Mostyn, Illustri Buckleiensis familia oriunda, Honoratissimo viro Rogero Mostyn, de Mostyn, Equiti et baronetto connubio juncta, Praestantissimarum virtutum cumulo Supra invidiam laudemque adornata, utque Pudicitiam et formam, Gravitatem et dulcedinem, Comitatem et honorem, Humilitatem et magnitudinem, Humanitatem et pietatem, Gratissima concordia consociavit. Quum nondum annos 34, etiamum numerâsset, Quumq. dolendos non unius morbi cruciatus, Victrici patientia per biennium sustulisset Dignissimo conjuge Charissimis que (egregiae indolis) natis quatuor,

Page 110

Quae supersunt (castissimi amoris pignora) relictis, Non sine summo omnium (quibus aut ipsius virtus Ejusve fama innotuerat) luctu planctuque In pacem aeternam sibi feliciter migravit, die 16o Octobris, Et sepulta 28 die ejusdem mensis, Anno Dom. 1662. R. E. vic.

THE disgraced lady mentioned in p. 62, is also commemo|rated here.

Valde generosa virtuosaque ac Domina D. Lumlaea Mostyn in felicitatem Sanctorum octavo die Octobris migravit, Sepultaque decimo octavo die mensis Ejusdem Anno Domini 1680.

HIS son and successor Sir Thomas Mostyn married Bridget, daughter and sole heiress of Darcie Savage, of Leighton, esq who transferred to the house of Mostyn the great Cheshire estates. This lady was a Roman catholic. Tradition is warm in her praise, and full of her domestic virtues, and the particular at|tention that she shewed in obliging her domestics, of each re|ligion, to attend their respective churches. Her husband and she

were lovely and pleasant in their lives, and in their death they were not divided.
They died within a day or two of each other, at Gloddaeth, in Caernarvonshire, and were interred in the neigh|boring church of Eglwys Rhôs. They are here mentioned as the first of the family who were interred out of the antient vault of the house of Mostyn.

* 3.13I TURN mine eyes towards the ALTAR, towards the aeterna

Page 111

domus of our race. The recent visitation of Heaven! The un|closed wound!—arrest my pen.

O PRAECLARUM DIEM, CUM AD ILLUD DIVINUM ANIMORUM CONCILIUM, COETUMQUE PROFICISCAR, CUMQUE EX HAC TURBA, ET COLLUVIONE DISCEDAM! PROFICISCAR ENIM NON AD AMI|COS SOLUM, ET PARENTES DILECTISSIMOS, SED ETIAM AD SARAHULAM, ANIMULAM NOSTRAM, QUA NEMO MELIOR NATA EST, NEMO PIETATE PRAESTANTIOR: CUJUS A ME CORPUS CRE|MATUM EST▪ QUOD CONTRA DECUIT AB ILLA MEUM. ANIMUS VERO NON ME DESERENS SED RESPECTANS, IN EA PROFECTO LOCA DISCESSIT, QUO MIHI IPSI CERNEBAT ESSE VENIENDUM. QUEM EGO MEUM CASUM FOR TITER FERRE VISUS SUM; NON QUOD AEQUO ANIMO FERREM: SED ME IPSE CONSOLABAR, EX|ISTIMANS, NON LONGINQUUM INTER NOS DIGRESSUM ET DIS|CESSUM FORE.

Cicero de Senectute.

APUD BRIGHTHELMSTONENSES, XVI. KAL. MAII E VIVIS FLEBILIS DISCESSIT. VIXIT ANNIS XIV. MENSIBUS X. DIEB. XXVII. EXUVIAS SACRAS PARENTES INFELICISSIMI (PIETATI HEU VANAE INDULGENTES) APUD VIDFORDENSES CINERIBUS PATRUM MAI KALENDIS COMMISTAS ESSE VOLUERE * 4.1.

ON a brass plate, now covered with the Downing seat, is a memorial of Morris Kyffin, of Maenan, who died (a youth) June 2d, 1610, at Bychton, on a visit to his sister Jane, wife to Pyers Pennant.

THE next township to the village is in Whitford Garn.* 4.2 In this township is Garreg, or The Rock, the highest land in the parish; it is a large inclosed hill, the property of Sir Roger Mostyn. Part of it is a fine turf, and excellent sheep-walk;

Page 112

the summit, and part of the sides, rocky. From Whiteford to the top is a continual ascent. From this height the traveller may have an august foresight of the lofty tract of Snowdon, from the crooked Moel Shabog, at one end, to the towering Pen|maen-mawr at the other; of the vast promontory of Llandudno, and part of the isle of Anglesea, with the great bay of Llanddulas, forming an extensive crescent; the estuaries of the Dee and the Mersey; and to the North (at times) the isle of Man and the Cumberland Alps, the frequent presages of bad weather.

* 4.3THE Romans took advantage of this elevated situation, and placed on its summit a Pharos, to conduct the navigators to and from Deva, along the difficult channel of the Seteia Portus. The building is still remaining. It is tolerably entire; its form is circular; the inner diameter twelve feet and a half; the thickness of the walls four feet four inches. The doors, or entrances, are opposite to each other; over each is a square funnel, like a chimney, which opens on the outside, about half-way up the building. On each side is a window. About four feet from the ground are three circular holes, lined with mortar, as is frequent in Roman buildings; and penetrate the whole wall, for purposes now unknown.

WITHINSIDE are the vestiges of a stair-case, which led to the floors, of which there appear to have been two. Along such part of the upper, which was conspicuous from the channel, are eight small square openings, cased with free-stone (the rest of the building being of rude lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar) and each of these were separated by wooden pannels, placed in deep grooves, the last still in a perfect state. In each of these

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]

Page 113

partitions were placed the lights, which the Romans thought ne|cessary to keep distinct, or to prevent from running into one, lest they should be mistaken by seamen for a star. Periculum in corrivatione ignium, ne sidus existimetur.

TO the building is very evidently a broad and raised road, pointing from the east; and near its upper end are the marks of a trench, which surrounded and gave protection to this useful edifice. It certainly had in later times been repaired, or perhaps applied to some other use, for in one part is a piece of timber which could not have been aboriginal.

THE curious cross called Maen Achwynfan,* 4.4 or the stone of lamentation, stands in a small field opposite to the gate which opens from the turnpike-road into Garreg. It takes its name, in all probability, from the penances, which were often finished be|fore such sacred pillars; attended with weeping, and the usual marks of contrition: for an example, near Stafford stood one called the weeping cross, a name analogous to ours. This is of an elegant form and sculpture; is twelve feet high, two feet four inches broad at the bottom, and ten inches thick. The base is let into another stone. The top is round, and includes, in raised work, the form of a Greek cross. Beneath, about the middle, is another, in the form of St. Andrew's: and under that, a naked figure, with a spear in his hand. Close to that, on the side of the column, is represented some animal. The rest is covered with very beautiful fret-work, like what may be seen on other pillars, of antient date, in several parts of Great Britain. I do not presume (after the annotator on Camden has given up the point) to attempt a guess at the age; only must observe, that

Page 114

it must have been previous to the reign of gross superstition among the Welsh, otherwise the sculptor would have employed his chizzel in striking out legendary stories, instead of the elegant knots and interlaced work that cover the stone.

THOSE, who suppose it to have been erected in memory of the dead slain in battle on the spot, draw their argument from the number of adjacent tumull, containing human bones, and sculls often marked with mortal wounds; but these earthy se|pulchres are of more antient times than the elegant sculpture of this pillar will admit. This likewise (from the crosses) is evidently a Christian monument. The former were only in use in pagan days.

* 4.5THERE is likewise, near to it, an antient chapel, now a farm|house, called Gelli, or the Hazel-grove, the name of an adjacent tract. This might have relation to the cross; as well as a place for performance of divine service to the abbot of Basingwerk, who had a house at no great distance. This tract (mis-spelt by the English, Geteley,) with the wood (at that time on it) was granted by Edward I. to the abbot and convent, on the tenth of November, at Westminster, before the death of our last prince. He also gave him power to grub up the wood; which by the nakedness of the place appears to have been done most effectually.

FARTHER to the west is another inclosed mountain called Glol. my own property; part is covered with hazels and large white-thorn trees (perhaps a continuation of the Gelli,) part is very cky, part a fine sheep-walk. In many places were se|veral druidical circles, which I believe are now injured by the removal of the stones for various uses. In the rougher parts of

Page 115

this inclosure are often seen vipers, which always prefer the dry and sunny parts of a country.

ON Sarn-Hwlkin, a little common to the east of Glol,* 4.6 was a very long but low tumUlus, supposed by the vulgar to have been a giant's grave, from a tradition that one of our sons of Anak had been there interred. It probably did cover the remains of some British heroes of the common size, who there found their grave, after some fierce action, I have before supposed to have happened before the place.

THE township of Tre'r-Abbot,* 4.7 one of the eight which compose our parish, joins to this part of Tre-Mostyn. In it stands the house of the same name, originally the country-seat of the abbots of Basingwerk, but long since the property of the Davies's, lately sold to Edward Jones, of Wepre, esq From the proof that gentleman has given of his literary abilities in drawing up the resolutions of the Holywell association, in December 1792, I must lament they are not oftener exerted, the occasion alone ex|cepted.

THIS township was once exempted from the payment of tythes by a modus, originally granted by the abbot of Basing|werk, but which by negligence has been totally lost.

THE house, in Mr. Miles Davies,* 4.8 produced a very extraordi|nary genius indeed! The talents of this eccentric gentleman were poetical. He lived about the year 1716, and published three volumes of his Athenae Britannicae. In his Martii Ca|lendae sive laudes Cambro Britanniae, is a Latin poem on St. David's Day. I never could get the sight of the books, but was indebted to the Rev. William Cole, late of Milton, near

Page 116

Cambridge, for the following extract; which will, I dare say, content the reader, as it does me.

Roberto atque Mansel, Buckley, Vaughan, et Trevor et Hanmer, eumque Salesbury, Stradlinque, Corway, Kemys, Anwill, Morganius Theliolque Moston.
Bennet, beata Oecumenicon Notâ, Davidis ortu, est Davisius nepos Wynne atque Griffith, atque Pennant, Lld quoque Powell, et Ellis Humphreys, &c.

HAVING reached the farthest part of our parish, to the north-west, I return along the great heath Mynydd Tegen, or Tegen-Mountain, which yet preserves the antient name of Tegengl, which comprehended the three modern hundreds of Coleshill, Prestatyn, and Rudland. It had been the property of Edwin, descended from Roderick the Great, and called prince of Tegengl. His Llys, or royal residence, was, in 1041, near Llaneurgan or Northop. This common, for I cannot call it mountain, stretches along the whole of the higher parts of our parish, and is covered with the erica vulgaris, or common heath. It feeds numbers of sheep, and is part of the mineral tract of Flintshire.

* 4.9THE manor of Mostyn, of which Sir Roger Mostyn is lord, includes the greater part of the mountain, and reaches to the sea. It was derived from the heiress of the house, descended from her ancestor, prince Edwin.

A LARGE piece of water, now well stocked with fish, made by Sir Roger Mostyn, baronet, grandfather to the present owner,

Page 117

lies near that end of the heath. In the winter it is the resort of ducks and teal.

ON the east-side of Mostyn pool, in Tegen mountain,* 4.10 is a grave bounded at each end by a rude stone, above four feet high. It contains the remains of captain Edward Morgan, of the adjacent house of Plâs Captain, and of the respectable family of the Mor|gans, of Gwlgray, in the adjoining parish of Llan Asaph. Some years ago a person of strange curiosity opened the grave, and found the skeleton. On the head was a red cap, I think of velvet, and round his neck a silk handkerchief. By him lay his sword, and his helmet; and beneath the skeleton two bullets, which had fallen out of the body on its dissolution; all which verify the report of his having been slain in battle, or in some skirmish during the civil wars, and that he was interred, according to his wish, under the spot on which he fell. In a collection of pede|grees lent to me by Thomas Gryffith, esq of Rhual, I find this short memorial of the captain, in the pedegree of his family: 'Capt. Edward Morgan, slain at Cheshire raise.' If he was slain in that county, I cannot suppose that his body would have been carried so far; nor can I account for this relation, or for the body being found here, unless that the above is a mistake, and that he fell in some skirmish near to his own house.

AT a small distance from Plâs Captain, is Plâs-mawr, at pre|sent the property of Sir Edward Price Lloyd, bart. of Pengwern, in right of his worthy grandmother, Frances, daughter and heiress to Bell Jones, secretary in the civil board of ordnance in the Tower. He erected a handsome monument in Whiteford church in memory of his father Robert Jones, and others of his predeces|sors.

Page 118

He died, and was buried in the chapel of the Tower, aged 49, near the remains of his wife Frances, who died No|vember 24th, 1723, aged 48.

ABOUT a mile farther, the turnpike, which is named the Flint road, cresses the upper road from Newmarket to Holywell.

IT is the first turnpike known on the Holyhead road. The act was obtained in 1755, and contained, besides the district of Flint, those of Emere, Chester, and Mold. The part in question is called Llwybr-hir, or the long-path, for it extends along the mountain westward, as far as Brick-kiln.

* 4.11ON the right hand, as you pass towards that hamlet, on a rocky elevated part, called Gelli, is a multitude of loose stones, lying on the surface. They are of the lime-stone kind, mere les, assuming most singular forms; some are excavated, and often perforated. This must have been done when they were in a soft state, for since their formation nothing has fallen on them but the rain of heaven, and that could not effect the phenomenon.

* 4.12SCATTERED over this part of the mountain are several rounded tumuli; and to the let, at some distance, is a work, pro|bably coeval with them. On the slope of the west part of the race-ground is an entrenchment of a circular form, about a hundred and sixty-three feet in diameter, surrounded with a low bank, and on the outside of that with a ditch; in one part very shallow, in the other more deep. This circle could not have been designed as a post, or place of retreat from an enemy. Its entrenchment is weak, and it might easily be commanded from above by the rising-ground. Possibly it might have been for some religious purpose, or for a place of council, or for ha|ranguing

Page 119

the people, who might assemble round the outside, and readily hear what was delivered to them.

ON returning along Llwybr-hîr, I rejoin the Newmarket road,* 4.13 at the plad had left it, near a great inclosure belonging to Sir Roger M, called Ty-maen. Within, near to the road,* 4.14 is a great mount, now planted with fir-trees, the site of a castelet, probably a seat of Owen Bendew,* 4.15 which my friend and fellow-traveller, the late Rev. John Lloyd, supposed to have been one of the habitations of that chieftain. Owen was lord of Tegengl in 1079, and one of the fifteen tribes of North Woles. He was distinguished by the name of Pendew, or Bendew. I have consulted Davies's, and all our dictionaries, and can find no other translation of the word than Thick-scull. Of him are descended, as the MS. of the Rev. Lewis Owen (my authority) say, many worthy families, among them Ithel ap Rotpert, arch|deacon of Tegengl, who was living in the years 1375 and 1393, and the Bithels, and a great many families besides. I might venture to mention the living descendants of the great Bendew; for the unfortunate idea of character impressed by the cognomen is entirely worn out. They are only to be known by their arms, argent, three boars heads couped, a chevron sable.

THE extinct families were the Wynnes, of Galedlom, and Caerwis; Piers of Llanasaph and of Merton Ysglan, and the Williams's of Merton, both of the parish of Whiteford; the Parrys, of Coleshill and Basingwerk; the Ffachnalts, of Ffachnalts, in the parish of Mold; and the Griffiths, of Panty Llowndŷ, in Llanhasa parish, and Griffiths of Caerwis hall; all of whom are now extinct, unless it may be in the female line.

Page 120

* 4.16A LITTLE farther on the left, on the common, are two raised mounts of a conoid shape, called Gorseddau, a name common to all of the same kind. According to our learned Rowlands (see p. 69) it is derived from the custom which the Druids had of fitting aloft on them, when they pronounced their sentences, and made their solemn orations to the people. 'Multa,' says Caesar, 'de Decrum immortalium vi et potestate disputant, et juventute tra|dunt.' The custom of promulging the laws in the Isle of Man from their Tinwald, a larger but similar mount, has its origin in Druidism. A certain officer takes the place of the Druid, and makes known to the people, who stand beneath, the institution of the new law.

* 4.17ON the mountain opposite to the place called Penffôrdd ŷ Waen, are other remains of the antient Britons, one or two tumuli, and near one of them an upright stone; and a little farther is another, its tumulus possibly destroyed. These are the Meini Gwŷr, Meini Hirion, and Lleche, differently denominated in different places. These were sometimes memorials of great events, sometimes monumental, as in the present case. There are illustrations of both in the book of Genesis, ch. xxxv.v.v. 14, 20. On the pillar which Jacob erected, after he had the gracious favor of conversing with the Deity face to face, he made a libation of oil: on that raised on the grave of his wife Rachel, he omitted that respect.

I NOW advance towards my conclusion, and shall attempt the more interesting topics of the rural oeconomy of my native parish, and its mineral and commercial advantages. In respect

Page 121

to size and population, it may rank among the most important in this division of our principality.

IT is bounded on the east by the Chester Channel,* 4.18 the Seteia Aestuarium of Ptolemy. Its inhabitants at that time were the Or|dovices; but whether in so long a period any of the antient blood at present runs in our veins, is extremely uncertain. The southern boundary of this parish is that of Holywell; the northern, those of Llan Asaph, Newmarket, and Cwm; and the western, those of Tremerchion and Caerwis.

THE whole length of the parish, from its eastern extremity,* 4.19 not far from Holloway turnpike-gate, to the extremity of the township Tre'r-Abbot, is about four miles two furlongs. Its greatest breadth, from the sea-side near Llanerch-y-môr, to Foel-da, ad|joining to Yskiviog parish, is near three miles four furlongs. The northern part, which is its length, is in general a rapid descent of two miles three quarters and 136 yards, reckoning from Pen-y-ffordd Waen, to Llanerch-y-môr. All beyond to the south and to the west is Tegen mountain, or the old Tegenia, a large extent of plain swelling into gentle risings, covered chiefly with heath, and mixed with grass, unless where the lime-stone stratum appears above the surface.

BEING on the spot,* 4.20 I shall give first some account of our minerals, the source of wealth to the land-owner, and of wealth, but oftener poverty, to the adventurous miners, who, like ad|venturers in a lottery, to which miners may truly be compared, are tempted by the good fortune of others to risque and fre|quently lose their all. If they are successful, they never thk of a future day, but enjoy their fortune in good living, forgetfull

Page 122

of the pains it cost them, till all is gone, and they are again compelled to take to hard labor. After a life of dissipation they sink under the fatigue, lose their health, and early become a burthen to the community, by adding to the load of paupers under which it groans.

* 4.21THE want of gun-powder, in early times, with the Romans, was a great impediment. Instead, we find that great fires were used; the rock intensely heated, and cracks formed in it by the sudden infusion of water; Pliny says of vinegar. The wedge or pick-ax was then insinuated into the apertures, and the stone or ore forced out. Miners often discover the marks of fire in antient mines. I am in possession of a little wedge, five inches and a quarter long, presented to me by the late Mr. Smedley, of Bagillt Hall, discovered in working the deep fissures of Dalar Goch rock, in the parish of Diserth, in this county. This little instrument affords a proof of its antiquity, by being almost in|tirely incrusted with lead ore. It had probably lain in the course of some subterraneous stream, which had brought along with it the leaden particles, and deposited them on the iron.

* 4.22PICK-AXIS of an uncommon bulk, and very clumsy, have been discovered in the bottom of the mineral trenches; these seem to have been the same with the fractaria of the Romans, pick-axes of enormous size, used by the miners in the gold mines of Spain. Buckets of singular construction, and other things of uses unknown at present, have been found among the antient mines.

MY good friend, that thorough honest mine-agent Mr. Thomas Edwards, of Saith Aclwyd, lately brought to me a frac|taria

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]

1 2. Antient 〈…〉〈…〉 wedges

3. a eaden 〈…〉〈…〉

〈…〉〈…〉

Page 123

and a wedge, found in a shaft in our parish, at the depth of sixty yards. The wedge had at the thicker end a square perforation, through which a stick was to be thrust, which was held by a man, whilst another, with repeated strokes of a mallet, drove the instrument into a crack it was to force open.

I AM also indebted to Mr. Edwards for a plate of lead of the shape of the sole of a shoe, with an elevated rim round the sides, and furnished also with a hooked handle to hang it in the fissures of the rocks of the mines, evidently designed to have placed on it a lamp, to give the miners light in their subterraneous opera|tions. This and another were found at the depth of sixty yards in a Roman mine.

OUR mineral tract is from Pen-yr-allt, or Bryn-digri,* 4.23 in a line to the western borders of Holywell parish. Its extent to north and south is very narrow. The turnpike road by Kelyn and Pen|y-ffordd Waen, as far as Creecas, describes its course east and west. This part goes under the name of the Whiteford Rake, and is nearly the summit of the parish in this part. The veins on the east side, when they dip into the fields, scarcely ever bear.

THE veins run either north or south, or east or west: the last are generally found most profitable. It is singular, that the ore got in the first scarcely ever produces silver worth the re|finer's labor.

THE ores differ in quality.* 4.24 The lamellated or common kind, usually named potter's ore, yields from fourteen hundred to sixteen hundred and a quarter of lead from twenty hundred of the ore: but the last produce is rare.

Page 124

THE quantity of silver produced from our lead is also vari|able. The upper part of a vein of lead ore is always richest in silver; the bottom, in lead. Our refiners will assay any lead that with yield ten ounces in the ton of lead and upwards. The usual produce is fourteen ounces: sixteen have been gotten; but acquisitions of that kind within this circuit are extremely uncommon.

* 4.25ON the side of the Whiteford Rake are the ruins of a large buding called Carrickfergus, probably from being sounded by some adventurer from that town, for the purpose of smelting the ore got in its neighborhood. It is near a century old, and erected when the furnaces were constructed in a manner very different from those of the present times; for by the remains of the chimnies they seem to have been formed like those of the modern iron-furnaces.

THE depth of our lead-mines are various. Rich veins have been discovered to the depth of ninety yards.

THE veins are found either in the lime-stone rock or that of chert. These frequently go to unknown depths; the ore is pur|sued extremely far indeed; and when it ceases, the unprofitable is usually found to consist of spar.

* 4.26GRAVEL ore, or lumps, from forty tons weight to the size of a hazel-nut, are often discovered in what the miners call flats, or loose ground full of gravel, tumblers, and the like. It is rounded and smoothed on the surface, as if it had been rolled in violent waters: but within is pure, lamellated, and rich. It is a potter's ore, reduced to this form by accident.

Page 125

THERE is no ascertaining the quantity of lead ore which is annually taken up in our parish, nor yet that of lead exported. It is included in the custom-house books at Chester, in the general account of the produce of the mineral parts of this county, and that of Denbigh. The number of tons exported in 1792, is as follows:

Foreign. Coastways.
540 tons of lead. 4497.
150 ore. 761.

ABOUT fifty years ago about seventeen hundred weight of cop|per ore was discovered in a tenement of my father's called Cathe|rine George's; which on being assayed was found to be very rich:* 4.27 but none has been discovered since, notwithstanding the ground has been diligently searched.

LAPIS CALAMINARIS, or calamine,* 4.28 is found in very great quan|tities almost the whole way I have mentioned, but increases in plenty as we advance eastward. It is found in veins like lead ore, often by itself; sometimes mixed with ore, which renders the break|ing and separating a work of labor and expence; what is found in these parts is generally of the cavernous, boney, or cancellated kinds. This mineral was the Cadmia of Pliny, lib. xxxiv. c. 10; and the Stone-cadmia of Strabo, lib. iii. 248. The Romans knew its uses in making of brass; therefore cannot be supposed to have overlooked so necessary an ingredient. The remains of the brass-founderies, discovered in our kingdom, shew, that they were ac|quainted

Page 126

with it. The knowlege of this mineral in after-ages was long lost. Before the reign of Elizabeth, much was im|ported from Sweden; but at that period it was discovered again in the Mendip-hills; and, fortunately, at the same time that the working of the copper-mines in those of Cumberland was re|newed. Our county abounds with it; but, till within these sixty years, we were so ignorant of the value, as to mend our roads with it; which have of late years been turned up in a hun|dred places most successfully to recover the lost wealth. It was John Barrow,* 4.29 a miner, from the Mendip-hills (whom I well re|member living in this parish) who first made us acquainted with this valuable mineral, having long worked in the calamine mines of his own country.

IT appears that this mineral tract (which is called the Pant|vein) has yielded ore from very early times. In the last century there have been no very rich veins: but then it is almost always yielding something, and of later years has been particularly productive of calamine. In the beginning of this century Sir Thomas Grosvenour had a good mine of lead ore on the side of the road. My grandfather had another. The benevolent, chari|table Mr. Edwards, of Brinford, had another. The Mr. Jones, of Celyn, had another. The last is said to have put a trap-door to the top of the shaft, and to have locked it, and made use of the trea|sure below as a bank, which he had recourse to according to his wants. All these mines are on the same vein, which is an east and west, Sir Thomas Grosvenour's mine was included in the vast mineral grant, possessed by his ancestor, see Tour in Wales, i. p. 76.

Page 127

All the other freeholders work on their respective freeholds. Sir Roger Mostyn on his manor of Mostyn, and on his freehold.

A MR. Francis Leicester, of Vauxhall, gives an account of this vein in a small pamphlet, called 'The little Mine Adven|ture,' published in 1702. He styles himself the present lessee, and gives, I believe, a good plan of the vein in an annexed map.

BLACK JACK, Zinc, Pseudo-galena,* 4.30 is met with in large quanti|ties near the eastern extremity of the parish. It is found to answer the purposes of calamine. It has hitherto been only exported to Bristol; and is sold there at the rate of 4l. 10s. per ton, deli|vered. We have it in a metallic form, of a blueish grey color, and again of the colors of the dark semi-pellucid ambers. Cronsted, ii. p. 779. Magellan's ed. calls the first, Zincum ferro sulphurato mineralisatum; the other, Zincum calciforme cum ferro sulphuratum.

THIS semi-metal, and its ore, has been long known in India, and imported from thence in a metallic state, under the name of tutenag, as early as the year 1647. It had even been fused in the Goslar mines, as early as 1617. Yet the secret of its being an ingredient in making brass, did not reach us till the year 1738; when it was communicated to us by Mr. Von Swob. I refer to the learned Bishop Watson's entertaining and instructive works, for a full account of this useful mineral. Let me here inform the reader from the same authority, (iv. p. 2.) that by the ac|cident of the Dutch taking a Portuguese ship laden with cala|mine, we learn the origin of the name, it being derived from the Arabic, calaem, the same mineral as our calamine, which is

Page 128

plentifully found in the peninsula of Malacca, and probably in other parts of India.

* 4.31A MOST excruciating, and often fatal disorder, frequently at|tacks the miners who work in the hard veins of lead ore, or of black jack, or of such as are solid and lodged between sides, or immersed in the rock. The disorder is called the Felyn, from Felyn, a mill. It may be translated into Mill-distemper, because it was at first most frequent in the smelting-mills; but for a considerable time past has ceased in those buildings; and that happiness may be dated from the period in which lime has been used as a flux for the lead ores.

IN the mines it arises from the workmen being obliged to use the pick-axe in the hard veins to get the ore out. The mi|nute particles fly about, and are taken down into the stomach, and into the lungs. This occasions a most obstinate costiveness, attended with most dreadful pains, which have been known to last fourteen, and even twenty-one days, and attended with a strong symptomatic fever.

William Spencer, a miner, worked in Meilwr, (a mine near Holywell) in a close confined situation, and where the ore was of a particular hard nature. He was attacked annually, during fifteen or sixteen years, (usually in the spring) with an acute pain in the pit of his stomach, extending itself downwards, with a griping pain in the bowels; and attended with a violent reaching, vomiting, costiveness, and tenesmus. His bowels and abdominal muscles were much contracted, his pulse feeble and low, he was subject to cold clammy sweats, and an unusual coldness of his extremities. In the efforts to vomit, he some|times

Page 129

parted with a quantity of bile; and in each evacuation I observed a deposition of a number of particles of lead, by parting with which he found great relief. The costiveness continued sometimes eight, nine, or ten days, notwithstanding the repeated use of purgatives, (chiefly castor-oil, in large doses, which I found to be the most effectual remedy). When this was got the better of, and a stool procured, I ob|served in each evacuation a quantity of lead, by which, from the relief he obtained, his pulse became better, the contraction of his bowels disappeared, and likewise the cold clammy sweats. In three or four days, and in the two last attacks, he felt a similar acute pain in the lower part of his belly, attended with a scantiness, pain, and difficulty in voiding his urine. I consequently suspected that some leaden particles might have found their way into the bladder, and gave him some diuretic medicines, as balsam of copaiba, gum-arabic, and oil of juniper. In the course of twenty-four hours his urine was voided much easier, and in greater quantity, and he parted with as much pure lead by urine as would lie on a shilling. He in the latter part of his days became asthmatic, and weak, and died Nov. 30, 1754, in the 51st year of his age.

I AM obliged to Mr. William Denman, of Holywell, surgeon, for the above account of the sad disorder; but more materially to his skill, and my excellent constitution, for a speedy recovery in the last spring (April 6th, 2 P. M.) from the con|sequences of a knee-pan snapped in two transversely, by no other violence than by stepping down two steps instead of one. After a strict recumbency of near seven weeks in pos|session

Page 130

of high spirits, fulness of faculties, and enjoyment of my favorite amusements, I rose from my bed, with the grateful pro|spect of png the remainder of my days with my prior activity little impaired; thankful to PROVIDENCE for graciously adding this blessing to the numbers of others it has showered on me during my long and various life.

* 4.32CHERT, which I have mentioned before, as being often the lodgement of the mineral veins, is the petrosilex, and lapis corneus, of Cronstedt, i. 189. It is of a flinty nature, and the only one of that class we have in our county. Nodular flints, the attendant on chalks, are quite unknown here. This is in the neighborhood of lime-stone, as flints are concomitant with chalk. It is an opaque stone, some|times plain, often varied with stripes. I have spoken of it as a ma|trix of the ores. I now consider it as useful in manufactures. It is frequently cut out of its quarries in great masses, and sent to the pottery countries of Staffordshire, first, for the purposes of form|ing stones to grind and comminute the calcined flints, which are the great ingredients in the stone ware; and I think it is itself calcined, and being homogeneous with the purer flints, serves also for the same purposes. Much of it is found in the midst of our hills, sinking, as I have said, to depths unknown. In Sir Roger Mostyn's land, near Pen-yr-allt, where the upper part of the pa|rish hangs abrupt over the lower, it forms the broken precipitous front, and has been of late quarried out for exportation. Bishop Watson, (ii. 263) says, that it sells in Derbyshire at eight shillings ton. The duke of Rutland contents himself with five shillings per ton, as lord of the rock. The workmen have three shillings for raising. I leave the reader to consult the right reverend au|thor

Page 131

for the process of calcining, &c. The knowlege may be of use to my countrymen, whether it is any way related to the Petunse of the Chinese, p. 273. It may not be wrong to consult our late legatine voyagers to China for that purpose.

OUR lime-stone is a genuine marble, often pure,* 4.33 often filled with entrochi and shells, composed entirely of homogeneous matter. I have mentioned the immensity of the beds: but it is often found mixed with calamine and ore. Its uses cannot be unknown to any, whether in building, whether for the purposes of agriculture. I am sensible its application is not extended as far as it ought to be; (but more of that under the article Rural Oeconomy.) Here I may say that it is the common flux used by the smelters in the fusing the lead ores; which has taken off much of the noxious effect it formerly had on the smelters, who were engaged in the operation, and on the cattle who fed on the grass within reach of the smoke.

ON the west side of Celyn rake, is a large stratum of a deep grey lime-stone, which, when calcined, makes, mixed with common lime, an excellent cement or terras, for works con|structed in water. It is nearly equal to the Aberdour stone from South Wales, of which much has been imported for the uses of our great buildings on the Holywell stream.

OF spars we have in abundance the white opaque kind;* 4.34 but I think none of the fine refracting spars, or the Crystallum Islan|dicum, which is frequent in the neighboring parishes.

PETROLEUM, rock-oil,* 4.35 or what the Welsh call it y menin tyl|with têg, or fairies butter, has been found in the lime-stone strata

Page 132

in our mineral country. It is a greasy substance, of an agreea|ble smell; and I suppose ascribed to the benign part of those imaginary beings. It is esteemed serviceable in rheumatic cases, rubbed on the parts affected. It retains a place in our Dispensary.

* 4.36I SHALL just mention two or three adventitious bodies disco|vered at vast depths in our mines. We have been often sur|prised with finding great rude logs of timber, at the depth of twenty-five or forty-five yards under ground. They are quite rough, and totally freed from any suspicion of having been used in the mines, even had they not been met with in new or un|worked ground, in blue clay, and amidst tumblers. They are firm and strong when first taken up, and of a black color, as if they had been burnt.

* 4.37SHELLS, especially conchae anomiae, are very common, some|times loose, but more frequently immersed in the lime-stone.

* 4.38I NOW quit the heights, and go down a steep descent, about half a mile, into the lower part of the parish. The mouth of a level, and a shallow shaft near it, discovers the change of strata. The chert and the lime-stone quite disappear, and in their place appear first the beds of shale,* 4.39 black, shattery, and soon dissoluble when exposed to the weather. It is the symptom of approach|ing coal, and the covering. Cronstedt, i. 259, calls it a pyrita|ceous schistus, and gives it other epithets, according to its con|tents. It is often found in beds of immense thickness, and often filled with inflammable air, which frequently bursts out to the great inconveniency and danger of the workmen. It is also im|pregnated with bitumen, which adds to its powers. In many parts of the kingdom it is found to contain quantities of alum;* 4.40

Page 133

and to be worked for the purpose of extracting from it that use|ful article. The trial is worth making. In our parts we have the same advantages of coal for the process, and water-carriage for the exportation, as Whitby has. Coals begin to appear in their unprofitable beds, at a small distance to the east; half a mile further, in great bodies, and of an excellent quality.

THE collieries of Mostyn and Bychton have been worked for a very considerable space;* 4.41 and in the last century supplied Dublin and the eastern side of Ireland with coals. They were discovered in the township of Mostyn, as early as the time of Edward I. as appears by an extent of that place, in the twenty-third year of that reign.

I REMEMBER many fluctuations in their state. They are now in the most flourishing which I ever remember, inferior only to that in which they were in the latter end of the late, and the be|ginning of the present century. The rise of the collieries at White|haven, which interfered with our trade to Dublin, was one cause of their decline; but another great cause was a natural one, the loss of the channel of the river Dee. We still load a few small vessels for the neighboring coasts of North Wales. But our pre|sent prosperity arises from the great works of copper-plates, bolts, and sheathings for ships, and the works of brass established of late years near the town of Holywell. To them may be added the consumption occasioned by the increase of population, by the accession of the cotton manufactures; and, finally, th vast quantities used for burning of lime, the effect of the happy in|provement in agriculture, annually increasing for numbers of years. I do not mention our obligations to the numerous smelting-houses for lead, as they have been established among us, during time immemorial.

Page 134

* 4.42I REMEMBER a quay beneath the Mostyn collieries, built by the grandfather of the present Sir Roger Mostyn, at which small vessels used to take in their lading.* 4.43 And I also remember on the shore the walls which supported the wheels and other machinery of a water-engine for draining the colliery. Of this I have a drawing by Mr. Dinely, whom at p. 54, I have re|lated to have visited Mostyn, in the year 1684.

THIS engine seems to have been formed on the model of some of those used in the German mines in the time of George Agricola. See the representation of several from p. 148 to p. 158, in his Treatise de Re Metallica. This celebrated author florished in 1550.

* 4.44STATA IN THE BYCHTON COLLIERIES.
  Feet. Inch.
1. Red Marle and Clay, 12 0
2. Shale, 15 0
3. Free-stone, 33 0
4. Coal, canal, 3 feet; common, 6 feet, 9 0
5. Shale, 30 0
6. Coal, 2 3
7. Strong Shale and Rock, 120 0
8. Coal, 15 0
9. Strong Shale and Rock, 45 0
10. Coal, 9 0
11. Rock, or Free-stone, 27 0
12. Coal, canal, 1 2
13. Rock, or Free-stone, 24 0
14. Coal, 1 0
15. Hard Rock, 51 0
Carried over 358 5

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
Anent Water Wheel 〈…〉〈…〉 Mostyn 〈…〉〈…〉

Page 135

  Feet. Inch.
Brought over 358 5
16. Coal, 6 0
17. Rock and Shale, 60 0
18. Black Shale, 36 0
19. Coal, 7 0
20. Fine Brick Clay, 3 0
21. Coal, 3 0
22. Rock, 48 0
23. Coal, 3 9
24. Shale, 0 6
25. Coal, 3 9
26. Rock, 30 0
27. Coal, 3 9
  614 0

THE beds of coal dip from one yard in four, to two in three;* 4.45 they immerge between the estuary of the Dee, are discovered again on the south-side of Wiral, in Cheshire, as if corresponding with some of the Flintshire. They remain as yet lost on the northern part of the same hundred, but are found a third time in vast quantities in Lancashire, on the opposite side of the Mersey. Their extent from west to east, in this country, may be rec|koned from the parish of Llanasa, through those of Whiteford, Holywell, Flint, Northop, and Hawarden. Our coal is of differ|ent qualities, suited to the variety of demands of the several sorts of founderies in the neighborhood. Sometimes is also found the peacock-coal of Dr. Plot, remarkable for the beauty of its sur|face, glossed over with the changeable brilliancy of the colors of that beautiful bird.

Page 136

* 4.46THE beds of canal are inferior indeed in elegance to those of Lancashire, but greatly coveted by the lime-burners.

COALS were known to the Britons, before the arrival of the Romans, who had not even a name for them; yet Theo|phrastus describes them very accurately, at lest three centuries before the time of Caesar; and even says that they were used by workers in brass. It is highly probable that the Britons made use of them. It is certain they had a primitive name for this fossil, that of Glo; and as a farther proof, I may add, that a flint-ax, the instrument of the aborigines of our island, was dis|covered stuck in certain veins of coal, exposed to day in Craig y Parc, in Monmouthshire; and in such a situation as to render it very accessible to the unexperienced natives, who, in early times, were incapable of pursuing the veins to any great depths. The artless smelters of antient times made use of wood only in their operations, as we find among the reliques of their hearths.

* 4.47AT a short distance from the shale appear the beds of free-stone, first on the side of the dingle Nant y bi, and from thence above the coal, terminating in the cliffs in the parts of Tre Bych|ton and Tre Mostyn, which are washed by the sea.

* 4.48IN the township of Tre Mostyn, near the shore, is a cliff of a very singular appearance, looking like the semi-vitrified lava of a volcano. The stratum is in front universally changed in its disposition, and run into a horrible mass of red and black; often porous, in all parts very hard. In it is a hollow, a vein in which was lodged the pyritical matter that took fire, which continued burning by its own phlogiston, (see Bishop Watson, i. 167, to p. 200.) and caused the phenomenon. Its fury chiefly raged

Page 137

towards the front, and diminished gradually in the internal part of the bed; which, at some distance within land, appears only dis|colored. The stratum is a sand-stone of the common sort (Da Costa's Fossils, 133.) I am informed, that these appearances are not uncommon in Derbyshire; and that Mr. Ferber, an ingenious Swede, and Mr. Whiteburst, our ingenious countryman, have taken notice of them in their writings.

I SHALL here introduce the mention of damps found in col|lieries, which are not unfrequent,* 4.49 and sometimes act with amaz|ing fury, and fatal consequences. There are two species, the suffocating, and the fire. The last is very rare in the lead-mines, unless in those parts where the shale, or stone attendant on coal, begins. The first kills instantaneously, by its mephitic vapor, and is a disaster common to neglected vaults, and draw-wells. The other is inflammable, and burns and destroys in a dreadful man|ner, as the colliers, through negligence in not setting fire to the vapor before it gets to a head, do often experience. The most tremendous instance was on February 3d, 1675, in a coal-work at Mostyn, which I shall relate from the Philosophical Transactions; and so conclude the account of our mineral concerns.

THE damp had been perceived for some time before, re|sembling fiery blades, darting and crossing each other from both sides of the pit. The usual methods were taken to free the pit from this evil. After a cessation of work for three days, the steward, thinking to fetch a compass about from the eye of the pit that came from the day, and to bring wind by a secure way along with him, that, if it burst again, it may be done without danger of men's lives, went down, and took two men

Page 138

along with him, which served his turn for this purpose. He was no sooner down, but the rest of the workmen that had wrought there, disdaining to be left behind in such a time of danger, hasted down after them; and one of them, more indis|creet than the rest, went headlong with his candle over the eye of the damp pit, at which the damp immediately catched, and flew up, to and fro, over all the hollows of the work, with a great wind, and a continual fire; and, as it went, keeping a mighty great roaring noise on all sides.

THE men, at first appearance of it, had most of them fallen upon their faces, and hid themselves as well as they could, in the loose slack, or small coal, and under the shelter of posts; yet nevertheless, the damp returning out of the hollows, and drawing towards the eye of the pit, it came up with incredible force; the wind and fire tore most of their clothes off their backs, and singed what was left, burning their faces and hands; the blasts falling so sharp on their skin, as if they had been whipt with cords. Some that had less shelter were carried fifteen or sixteen yards from their first station, and beaten against the roof of the coal, and sides of the posts, and lay afterwards a good while senseless, so that it was long before they could hear or find one another. As it drew up to the day-pit, it caught one of the men along with it that was next to the eye; and up it comes, with such a terrible crack, not unlike, but more shrill, than a cannon, that was heard fifteen miles off, with the wind, and such a pillar of smoke as darkened all the sky over-head for a good while. The brow of the hill above the pit was eighteen yards high, and on it grew trees of fourteen or fifteen

Page 139

yards long; yet the man's body, and other things from the pit, were seen above the tops of the highest trees, at lest 100 yards. On this pit stood a horse-engine, of substantial timber, and strong iron-work; on which lay a trunk, or barrel, for winding the rope up and down, of above 1000 pounds weight; it was then in motion, one bucket going down, and the other coming up full of water. This trunk was fastened to that frame with locks and bolts of iron; yet it was thrown up, and carried a good way from the pit; and pieces of it, though bound with iron hoops and strong nails, blown into the woods about; so like|wise were the two buckets; and the ends of the rope, after the buckets were blown from them, stood awhile upright in the air like pikes, and then came leisurely drilling down. The whole frame of the engine was stirred and moved out of its place; and those men's clothes, caps, and hats, that escaped, were afterwards found shattered to pieces, and thrown amongst the woods a great way from the pit.

ANOTHER of these damps happened in the same lands within my memory. In the year 1751,* 4.50 one man was beat to pieces in the bottom of the pit. Two others were taken up alive, but died soon after; and two others survived, but were most dread|fully burnt: and one who is now living, remains a dreadful evi|dence of the effects of the damp. All his fingers burnt off, and his visage terribly disfigured.

I SHALL here describe agitations of the earth derived from other causes, which,* 4.51 dreadful as they have been in distant coun|tries, have here occasioned little more than a momentary alarm. I have at this house felt four shocks of the earthquake. I shall

Page 140

relate their effects, from the Philosophical Transactions, in which they are recorded. On April 2d, 1750, between the hours of ten and eleven at night, I was greatly alarmed with a violent shock of an earthquake. I, who was in bed, was frequently moved up and down; and the bed, having castors, was removed some small space from its proper situation.

DURING the shock, a great noise was heard in the air; and, some nights before, lights were seen in the sky; such as were previous to the earthquake in town.

I HAVE summed up the remainder in a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, baronet, K. B. which had the honor of being read before the ROYAL SOCIETY, on January 25th, following, and afterwards printed in the Transactions, vol. lxxi. p. 193.

Downing, Dec. 12, 1781.

Dear Sir,

It is very singular, that in three days after my return home, I should be reminded of my promise by a repetition of the very phenomenon on which I had engaged to write to you: for on Saturday last, between four and five in the evening, we were alarmed with two shocks of an earthquake; a slight one, im|mediately followed by another very violent. It seemed to come from the north-east, and was preceded by the usual noise. At present I cannot trace it farther than Holywell.

THE earthquake preceding this was on the 29th of August, 1780, about a quarter before nine in the morning. I was fore|warned of it by a rumbling noise, not unlike the coming of a great waggon into my court-yard. Two shocks immediately followed, which were strong enough to terrify us. They came

Page 141

from the north-west; were felt in Anglesea, at Caernarvon, Llan|rwst, in the vale of Clwyd south of Denbigh, at this house, and in Holywell; but I could not discover that their force extended any farther.

THE next, in this retrograde way of enumerating these pheno|mena, was on the 8th September, 1775, about a quarter before ten at night. The noise was such as preceded the former; and the shock so violent as to shake the bottles and glasses on the table round which myself and some company were sitting. This seemed to come from the east. I see in the Gentleman's Maga|zine of that year, that this shock extended to Shropshire, and quite to Bath, and to Swansea in South Wales.

THE earliest earthquake I remember here was on the 10th of April, 1750. It has the honor of being recorded in the Philo|sophical Transactions; therefore I shall not trouble you with the repetition of what I have said.

PERMIT me to observe, that I live near a mineral country, in a situation between lead-mines and coal-mines; in a sort of neutral tract, about a mile distant from the first, and half a mile from the last. On the strictest inquiry I cannot discover that the miners or colliers were ever sensible of the shocks under ground: nor have they ever perceived, when the shocks in question have happened, any falls of the loose and shattery strata, in which the last especially work; yet, at the same time, the earthquakes have had violence sufficient to terrify the inha|bitants of the surface.

TO this observation I may add, that no eruptions of water were ever observed to follow the shocks; no water from the vast

Page 142

reservoirs of that element, formed in the deserted pits, which have often burst through the hollow which contained them, and more than once drowned the unhappy colliers who have been working beneath.

I HAVE seen in prints an observation of some gentleman learned in earthquakes, that the cause of those I have mentioned, which leave the shattery strata of the coal-mines unaffected, to have been electricity, which in these instances moved equally and gently, so as not to cause any concussion, or to go perhaps far below the surface, so that they leave the worked depths totally untouched.

NONE of these earthquakes were local; for, excepting the first, all may be traced to very remote parts. The weather was remarkable still at the time of every earthquake I have felt.

I remain with true regard, &c. T. P.

* 5.1THE quadrupeds of this parish are common to many parts of England. Yet I shall give a catalogue of them in our antient tongue, and affix to them those in the English.

1. IN respect to the March, Ceffyl, the horse, the caseg or mare, dispaidd-farch or gelding, there are abundance in our parish, used chiefly in the carriage of coal, and our mineral wealth; but as to fine large black horses used in the coach, and by the richer farmers, scarcely any are bred in our parish, but numbers are bought from those of Northop, Mold, and Hope, in our county, which are far from a disgrace to the gentleman's equipage.

Page 143

2. THE mûl, or mule, is very rare with us; but the

3. Asyn, or ass, is in great plenty, used by the poor to carry coal, to ease themselves of part of the expence of turnpike. It for|merly was applied for the carriage of ore; but since the improve|ment in our roads, has been quite lain aside for that purpose.

4. THE tarw, bull; buwch, cow; ych, eidion, ox; llo, calf, or whatsoever goes under the general adopted name of cattal, or more properly gwarthag, or cattle, produces nothing worthy of note in Whiteford parish. Neither cheese nor butter for sale made from their milk, excepting for family consumption. There is only one ox-team in the parish; but that is a remarkably fine one. It is the property of Sir Roger Mostyn, and used on his noble demesn, which is kept in admirable order. I must not conceal, that Sir Roger would be the best farmer in the parish, if he was permitted to have his own way: but no one can be ignorant of the tenacity of servants to old customs, and the difficulty of over|coming ingrafted obstinacy.

5. THE hwrdd, maharen, or ram; dafad, ewe; oen, lamb. Sheep in general are not greatly cultivated in our parish: many in|deed are turned out by the farmers on Tegen-mountain, but the gentry chiefly buy their stock for the table from Llangollen and other places.

6. Bwch, the he-goat; gafr, the female; myn, the kid, are very little favored, even in the county at large. I keep a few on my mountain Glol, for the sake of any invalids who may want their restoring milk.

7. Hydd, the buck or fallow-deer; ewig, the doe; elain, the fawn, Br. Zool. i. No 7. are kept in Mostyn park, and give a venison of uncommonly good flavor.

Page 144

8. Baedd, the boar; hwch, sow; mochyn, hog, have nothing in the breed particularly worthy notice.

9. OUR ci, dog; and gast, bitch; are under the same predicament.

10. Llwynog, dog-fox; llwynoges, bitch-fox, Br. Zool. i. No 11; are too frequent.

11. Cath-goed, the wild or wood-cat, Br. Zool. i. No 12. has been frequently seen in our woods, but I believe are now ex|tirpated. The last which was killed was about eight years ago.

12. Pry-llwyd, pry-penbrith, the badger, Br. Zool. i. No 13. An animal found in our parish: but neither here nor in other parts of the kingdom a common animal.

13. Ffwl-bard, polecat, fitchet, Br. Zool. i. No 14. Common and destructive.

14. Bela-graig, the martin, Br. Zool. i. No 15. The kind intended is the martin with a white throat, a sweet-scented, elegant animal, which in my younger days I have kept tame. They inhabited our woods. The last time in which I have known one taken, was about fifteen years ago.

15. Bronwen, the weesel, Br. Zool. i. No 17. Not unfrequent.

16. Carlwm, stoat or ermine, Br. Zool. i. No 18. More com|mon than the former. I have seen this animal more than once in my grounds, wholly changed (tail excepted) to a snowy whiteness; and also partly white, partly brown.

17. Dyfr-gi, the otter, Br. Zool. i. No 19. This animal is seldom seen in this parish. It is certain that they have passed to and from Cheshire, over the channel, at low water.

18. Ysgyfarnog, the hare, Br. Zool. i. No 20.

19. Gwiwair, the squirrel, Br. Zool. i. No 23. This elegant animal enlivens our woods in numbers.

Page 145

20. Pathew, the dormouse, Br. Zool. i. No 24. Very rare in our parish.

21. Llygoden Ffrengig, the black rat, Br. Zool. i. No 25. Ffren|gig signifies French, as if it had been imported from France; which originally it might have been, with every animal we possess, before the separation of Gaul from Britain, by the convulsion which formed the Streights of Dover* 5.2. Whether our ancestors had any tradition of its being of a later importation, (as the distinction might imply) is unknown to me. They have long since been extirpated by the Brown Rat. The last I have seen in this parish, was at my old house at Bychton. They are still found in our ca|pital: the specimen of one taken there is preserved in the col|lection of British animals near the Pantheon.

22. THE Brown Rat is a modern importation, and has no name in the British. It is a pest to all countries it has settled in, (see Br. Zool. i. No 26, and Hist. Quadr. ii. No 375.)

23. Llygoden y dwr, water rat, Br. Zool. i. No 27. Once very common in the meadow below my house.

24. Llygoden ganoleg, Llygoden y maes, field mouse. Br. Zool. i. No 28.

25. Llygoden, common mouse, No 30, has sometimes been found white in our parish.

26. Llygoden gwtta'r maes, short-tailed mouse, No 31.

27. Llygoden goch, Chwistlen, Llyg, shrew, No 32.

28. Wadd, Twrch daear, mole, No 34. Sometimes white in my grounds.

29. Draenog, Draen y coed, urchin, or hedge-hog, No 35—

Page 146

humbly petitions mankind to desist from all farther persecutions; declaring themselves innocent of the various charges brought against them, particularly for that of sucking cows; resting their aquittal on this simple plea—the impossibility. They could not effect it, by reason of the smallness of their mouths; nor the cows permit, by reason of the sharpness of their teeth.

30. Moel-n, seal, No 3. By storms one was once taken on our shore.

31. Ystlum, the common bat, No 41.

* 5.3THE Buzzard and the Kestrils annually build in the tall pines near my house. I believe them to be the lest noxious of the rapa|cious tribes, I therefore spare them; they animate the air, as well as other birds do the woods. Both feed principally on mice. The evolutions of the last, and their beautiful suspension in the air, are pleasing spectacles, and contribute to grace the scenery.

THE owl tribe, in my opinion, do not render night hideous. Their hootings, and their other notes, break finely into the still|ness of the evening; and their frm and sapient looks, are a singu|lar variation among the feathered tribe. The white owl, that useful species, is gratefully spared, as it is most particularly ini|mical to mice. Its chase after the different kinds of field-mice is very amusing, while it skims along the meadows. The beauty of its plmage is admirable; let that be the excuse for giving the figure of a bird that is not extremely rare.

THE turtle, Br. Zool. i. No 10, is very rare in North Wales. They prefer the thick woods of beech or oaks, in the county of Buckingham, or of oks in the several western counties. Yet, in a

Page [unnumbered]

[figure]
THE WHITE OWL. usus o atur. Published 〈…〉〈…〉

Page 147

late winter, three made my grounds a visit, and continued about three weeks. They were perfectly tame, and undisturbed by the frequent visits we made to admire these strangers.

THE long-tailed tit-mouse, Br. Zool. i. No 166, with its numerous brood, passes annually through my garden. They flit from tree to tree, as if on their progress to some other place, never making any halt.

THE Nut-cracker, Br. Zool. ii. App. tab. iii. Latham, i. p. 400, is an accidental visitant of this island. One was killed in the gar|den at Mostyn in 1753. On the continent it extends from Ger|many to Kamtschatka, and inhabits the vast forests of pines. It also nestles on lofty towers, and, like the jackdaw, is very noisy. In size it is about equal to that bird. Its colour is rusty brown, prettily marked with triangular spots of pure white. It feeds on nuts (which it breaks with its bill) also on fir-cones, acorns, ber|ries, and insects. Its bill is as strong as that of the wood-pecker, which enables it to pierce the bodies of trees, and make great havock among the timber.

VAST numbers of water-fowls frequent our shores in the win|ter time, chiefly ducks and wigeons. In very severe weather, variety of others emigrate here; but none excepting those which accidentally visit every other maritime part of Great Britain.

I SHALL conclude this mention of the birds with an account of a singular accident discovered in a turkey which was killed for my table. The cook in plucking it found herself much wounded in the fingers. On examining the cause, it was found, that from the thigh-bone of the bird issued a short upright process, and to that grew a large and strong talon, with a sharp and crooked

Page 148

claw, exactly resembling that of a bird of prey. Every head was set to work to explain the cause of this wondrous pheno|men. The effects of fright, of conceit on the minds of the female, human and brute, in the state of pregnancy, was then considered, and all the various instances of monstrous produc|tions. I have heard of a duckling, which, to the surprize of a gave family, ad from its nst with a long serpentine tail instead of its natural rump. This was readily resolved into a fright the mother-duck took, at finding, when it went once to lay, a snake coiled up in the nest, as was a real fact. I consulted the learned, but found the doctrine of terror and fancy totally exploded. I then consulted the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Brobdingnag; and, to my inexpressible satisfaction, found that the opinion of that illustrious body coincided with my own: so I put down this uncommon accident as no more than a Relpium Scacath, or, in the modern phrase, a lusus naturae.

* 5.4THE tides recede here so very fr as to deny us any variety of fish. The species most plentiful are of the flat kind, such as flounders, a few place, small soles, and rays. Dabs visit us in November. Smear Dabs, Br. Zool. iii. No 106, also visit our sea; and in the last year was taken that rare species of flounder the whiff, the figure of which is given in the British Zoology, No 111.

THAT turbots of a large size are found in our neighborhood, is evident; twice in my life I had one brought to me which weighed twenty-two pounds. There have been a few others taken here of the same size, but the instances are rare.

Page 149

VARIOUS other fishes are taken off our coast accidentally.* 5.5 Among them is the Fishing Frog, or Angler, Br. Zool. iii. No 51. And once a large Angel or Monk (Br. Zool. iii. No 39.) fish got into my fisherman's nets. The man was very poor, I there|fore thought he might get a little money by exhibiting it at Cester. I gave him a few instructions, and drew up for him a curious advertisement; but the rogue went beyond his instructions, for as soon as he arrived in the city, he sent the bellman about to notify his arrival, and that of his wonderful monster; signifying that Squire Pennant had consulted all his books, and could not find the like. His success was great, for he got ten pounds by the curiosity of the good people of Chester. When the smell grew intolerable, he sold it to another poor per|son, who stuffed the skin, and distended it to a most dreadful form, and carried it to Worcester, and the internal parts of England, where I doubt not his success was equal to that of poor Thomas Hdfield.

'Advertisement. 'TO THE CURIOUS. July, 1761.

To be seen at the upper White Bear, in Bridge-Street, in this

City, (now in its Road to the ROYAL SOCIETY) THE STUPENDOUS SEA MONSTER, Taken alive on the Coasts of North Wales.

IT is the most amazing prodigy the great deep ever produced, being headed like a bull-dog, mouthed like the ravenous shake, and armed with a four-fold row of teeth. It has a breast like the human kind, wings like those of an eagle, and a

Page 150

tail very like that of a fish. It could fly, walk, and swim, and was so fierce as to keep three men at bay for two hours, before it could be taken.

THIS amazing monster has given the greatest satisfaction to all that have viewed it; and may now be seen at the small expence of three-pence.

N. B.—THE Proprietor of this wonder is willing to oblige persons, by bringing it to their houses, on paying double price.

* 5.6THAT rare species of fish the Sting Ray, Br. Zool. iii. No 38, is sometimes taken in our channel. It is greatly dreaded by our fishermen, on account of the dangerous spine issuing from the tail, with which it might give a mortal wound. From the British Zoology, I shall add, that the terror of its weapon sup|plied the antients with many tremendous fables relating to it. Pliny, Aian, and Oppian, have given it a venom that affects even the inanimate creation. Trees that are struck by it instantly lose their verdure, and perish, and rocks themselves are incapable of resisting the potent poison.

THE enchantress Circe armed her son with a spear, headed with the spine of the trygon, a species of sting-ray, as the most irresistible weapon she could furnish him with, and with which he afterwards committed parricide, unintentionally, on his father Ulysses. But we need not dive into antiquity for the fatal applica|tion of the spine of some of the ray genus. The inhabitants of certain parts of South America, and of some of the new-discovered islands in the Pacific Ocean, still head their spears with the spines

Page 151

of the congenerous kinds, which prove far more tremendous than those pointed with iron, in use among the European warriors.

THE Herring in this sea is extremely desultory.* 5.7 At times they appear in vast shoals, even as high as Chester; arrive in the month of November, and continue till February; and are fol|lowed by multitudes of small vessels, which enliven the chan|nel. Great quantities are taken, and salted; but are generally shotten and meagre. The last time in which they appeared here in quantities was in the year 1766 and 1767.

A few Anchovies, Br. Zool. iii. No 163,* 5.8 have been taken off this parish, particularly in 1769. Ray, in his Philosophical Let|ters, p. 47, saw some at Chester in the year 1669.

THE Argentine, Br. Zool. ii. No 156, a very rare fish, not much above two inches long, has also been taken in our channel.

In my father's younger days, Cod-fish, of considerable sizes, and in vast quantities, were taken on the back of the Hyle sands, but have deserted the place beyond my memory.

THE Weever, Br. Zool. iii. No 71, is very common here,* 5.9 and equally dreaded in these parts as they are on the different shores of England. Pliny, lib. ix. c. 27, 48; and Aelian, lib. ii. c. 50 men|tions this species, its dorsal spine, and its dangerous effects, under the name of Draco; and Pliny again under that of Araneus.

OUR shore is not productive of any variety of crustacea, or of shells. We have the cancer maenas, or the common crab; and the cancer crangon, or shrimp. The last is here so peculiarly deli|cious, that had Apicius failed from Minturnae to the Flintshire shores, to have feasted on them, at he did to those of the Sinus

Page 152

Hipponensis, in Africa, to indulge on the congenerous locustae * 5.10 of that sea, he would not instantly have returned indignant, as he did from thence, at finding himself deceived in the report of their excellency, but remained on our coast, wallowing in epicurism the whole of the happy season.

AS to shells, we have only one species, we can call new, the tro|chus ulvae, Br. Zool. iv. No 12. tab. lxxxvi. fig. 120. It is very small, not exceeding the size of a grain of wheat, consists of four spires, the first swelling: the color deep brown. These are found in great numbers, lodged in the ulva lactuca, on our shores.

* 5.11AMONG the rarer plants of our parish, are the lithospermium arvense, Syst. Pl. i. 385. Corn Gromwell, or bastard Alkanet, Gerard, 610.

Anchusa sempervirens, Syst. Pl. i. 389. Never-dying borage, Gerard, 797.

Phellandrium aquaticum, Syst. Pl. 701. Flor. Scot. i. 163. Common water hemlock, Gerard, 1063.

Campanula latifolia, Syst. Pl. 1458. Giant throat-wort, Gerard, 448.

Chlora perfoliata, Syst. Pl. ii. 161. Flor. Scot. p. 200. Yellow centorie, Gerard, 547. Elegant, and rather scarce.

Trifolium fragiferum, Syst. Pl. 559. Strawberry trefoil, Gerard, 1208.

Tragopogon pratense, Syst. Pl. iii. 611. Flor. Scot. 426. Purple goat's beard, Gerard, 735.

Page 153

THE Rev. Mr. Lightfoot discovered in our dingles, in the month of May, a variety of the Anenome Nemorosa, Syst. Pl. ii. 637. with the leaves dotted on the back like the fructifications of a polypody: precisely corresponding with the figure of a sup|posed fern, in Mr. Ray's Synopsis, 124, after No 24; and fig. i. tab. iii. at p. 128.

THE arenaria saxatilis, Syst. Pl. ii. 364. is found on our moun|tain in plenty, and chears the ground with its white flowers, in May. I do not find it in Mr. Hudson, nor any of our British flo|rists. It is found in Sibiria, Fl. Sib. iv. 157. tab. 63; and in Switzerland, Haller, p. 383, No 867.

THE geranium phaeum, Syst. Pl. iii. 32. has also been discovered in the hanging wood above my garden.

THE picturesque dingle Nant-y-bi abounds with what the bota|nists name the cryptogamous plants. The idea of cryptogamy in|spired Timaeus with ideas of loves of other kind; and makes our Nant the tender scene of courtship for all the nymphs and swains of Whiteford parish, which he candidly admits does always terminate in honest matrimony in the parish church. I leave to the learned in German, to peruse his very graphical account * 5.12.

Page 154

Perhaps the quotation of two lines from Dr. Darwin's elegant poem, book ii. line 361, 'On the Loves of the Plants,' may prove full as pleasing. He makes Muscus, one of the classes in question, thus address itself, just in the manner our amorous couples may be supposed to do:

Rise, let us mark how bloom the awaken'd groves, And 'mid the banks of roses hide our loves.

THE rarest plants of the dingle, of the cryptogamous kind, are the Polypodium creopteris, Lin. Soc. Trans. i. 181.

Bryum extinctorium, Fl. Scot. ii. p. 718. Dillen. Musc. tab. 95. fig. 8. So called from having a membranaceous calyptra hanging lower than the capsule, like an extinguisher upon a candle.

Bryum callistomum, Dicks. Fasc. iii. tab. 10.

Jungermannia ciliaris. Hudson Fl. Angl. i. 515.

Lichen concentricus, Lin. Soc. Trans. ii. 284. Discovered by my excellent botanical assistant, the Reverend Hugh Davies Aber, Caernarvonshire.

Lichen quercinus, Dicks. Fasc. i. p. 9.

Agaricus piperatus, Fl. Scot. ii. p. 1013. Fl. Angl. i. 613. A most acrid fungus, and the most suspicious of the whole class; yet is eaten in great quantities by the Russians. They fill large vessels with them in the autumn season, or pickle them with salt, and eat them in the ensuing Lent.

* 5.13Haller gives a dreadful account of the fatal effects.

The maladies they occasion are a swelling of the abdomen, restless|ness, heart-burns, vomitings, colics, difficult breathings, hic|coughs, melancholy, diarrhoeas, accompanied with a tenesmus, and gangrenes. To which dreadful complaints, the acrimonious quality of some fungi brings on besides inflammations in the

Page 155

mouth, with bloody lotions and bloody stools. Lastly, it is certain that some species have an intoxicating quality, followed often by deliriums, tremblings, watchings, faintings, apoplexies, cold sweats, and death itself. Some have fancied that skilful cookery would deprive them of their bad effects, and that oils would sheath their noxious qualities; but these are fatal deceits, not to be trusted. Notwithstanding this, nothing can prevail on the northern nations from depriving themselves of so favorite a food.

Agaricus deliciosus. Orange agaric. Hudson Flor. Angl. ii. 613.

Boletus suberosus. Cork boletus. Hudson Flor. Angl. ii. 624. Flor. Scot. ii. p. 1032. So called from its being light, tough, and spongy like cork, and is sometimes cut and shaped by the country people, and used as corks for their bottles; but must not be suffered to touch any liquid, for moisture soon renders them soft and useless.

Helvella mitra. Curled helvella. Hudson Flor. Angl. Fl. Scot. ii. p. 1047, is nearly allied to the Phallus esculentus, and like that is esteemed to be of the eatable kind.

THE peziza described by Ray, Syn. Stirp. Brit. i. 18. No 5. is found near my house; it is a fungus of the cup-form, and of a most brilliant scarlet color.

THE waters of this parish are very numerous,* 5.14 as is the case of all mountanous tracts. Here indeed we must confine them to the steep slope that falls rapidly to the sea. It abounds with little springs, which accumulating in their course, form streams of power sufficient to turn some corn-mills of considerable size.

Page 156

* 5.15THE largest independent rivulet is that which gushes from Ffynnon Oswald, or the well of Oswald, in the township of Merton Ychlan. It takes its name from the Saxon monarch, martyr, and faint, Oswald king of the Northumbrians, who was defeated and slain on October 5th, 642, near Oswestry, by the pagan Penda; king of the Merians, who hung his limbs on stakes dispersed over the field, as trophies of his victory. Some of the tradition reached our parish: for there is near to the well a certain field called Alod Oswald, or Oswald's limb, as if one of them had found its way to this place. (For a farther account of the legend, I refer to article Oswestry, vol. i. p. 258, edit. 1784, of my Tour in Waies.) This stream divides the parish of Whiteford, for a certain way, from that of Holywell.

* 5.16POSSIBLY St. Oswald had near his well a cross; for not remote, on an eminence named Bryn-y-Groes, or the Hill of the Cross, stood one of those marks of piety, of which still remains the shaft.

* 5.17THE stream of most utility rises from a spring a little beyond the village of Whiteford. It runs by my house, and is no small ornament to my ground. It turns my two mills, which, with much patriotism and little wisdom, I erected. The first is near the Gwibnant or Wibnant, and made in form of a chapel. My great folly is about half a mile lower: is an excellent mill, and does much business for the lessee. This stream is much augmented by an|other, which rises at a place called Saith Ffynnan, or the Seven Wells, and murmurs through the romantic Nant-y-bi, and unites with it at the Wibnant. It concludes its course near Llanerch-y-môr smelting-house, to which it is of great use, by setting in

Page 157

motion some stampers for comminuting the slags before they are committed to the hearth for the extraction of the remaining lead.

THE last stream runs through Felyn Blwm, or the lead-mill,* 5.18 a great romantic dingle which divides this parish from that of Llan-Asaph. Near its fall into the sea is a considerable mill, the property of Sir Roger Mostyn. This dingle probably takes its name from the number of antient smelting-hearths for lead found in it, in use in the primaeval artless times of smelting.

ALL our dingles run parallel to each other,* 5.19 and begin at some distance from the first or steepest descent from the mountain. The sides of all are cloathed with oaks, and each has its rill at the bottom. These great ravines, I may call them, were evi|dently formed on the running down of the waters of the deluge on its subsidence, when they found their way to what the AL|MIGHTY determined should ever remain a circum-ambient sea.

NUMBERS of the small springs which arise in the lower part of the parish shew symptoms of the internal contents.* 5.20 In the neighborhood of the coal, they are covered with a dirty yellow ochreous scum; and are more or less chalybeate. One, which rises before my house, is strongly so, and proved very beneficial to the only person I know who made a fair use of it.

IN respect to the husbandry of this parish;* 5.21 it may be di|vided into several parts. I shall first pay attention to the higher or the mountanous. That tract is very extensive,* 5.22 covered in general with heath mixed with coarse grass. The climate very cold in comparison of the lower parts. We often find during

Page 158

winter a severe frost reign there, when the ground has been quite soft, and the air mild, in the lower parts.

THE soil in general a poor loam, and in many parts very thin; in others, the lime-stone pervades the stratum, and forms large tracts of rock. There are certain parts fit for agriculture, as has been found by the surreptitious inclosures made in a few parts, which yield corn, such as barley and oats, in a kindly manner. I wish experiments were made of planting part; which, if put under the care of a woodman, might be a national benefit, as well as a private one to the lord of the manor. The neglect of appointing woodmen would render the planting of no effect, by reason of the variety of trespasses; as we free-holders of the lower parts, who make our woods the glory of our estates, do daily and cruelly experience.

OUR mountains support some black-cattle; the greater part of which are left out the whole year to take their chance. Still the high country is a nursery. Many are sent lean to market, and drove to more genial soils. Most of our farmers fatten cattle, and either sell them to the butchers for the Holywell market, or to those of Chester and Leverpool.

* 5.23THE sheep are numerous. They likewise are left to them|selves; and become in hard weather great nusances by their trespasses on the cultivated lands of us low-landers. As may be imagined, they produce little wool. Their fleeces are coarse, yet of that a small quantity is sold into Merionethshire, and the rest manufactured at home, and made either into cloth for the country people, or into flannel for the women, or knit into stockings, all for home consumption. In respect to mutton, much

Page 159

is brought to market from the mountains, but that is only during the vigorous part of the summer, and after the frost or rainy sea|son: but the greatest part of the sheep bought by the gentry for the table, is purchased at the distant country fairs.

NUMBERS of hogs are bred in our parish;* 5.24 and numbers are sold at the fairs, and driven to distant parts.

THE soil of the lower part of the parish is in general a very stiff clay, which continues quite to the edge of the cliff,* 5.25* 5.26 above the shore. In many places are spots of gravel, but of very small extent. We have also beds of pure sand, but that useful arti|cle is in most parts scarce.

FROM the Rhewl to Avon Marsh Siambr is a thin vein of very rich marle, saponaceous to the touch; prettily veined with red, grey, and white. It is got in too small quantities for use. On the edge of the mountain, especially on the tenement of Plâs Captain, is a larger vein of a coarser kind. The tenant, Thomas Blore, a Cheshire man, conversant in this species of manure, has made a judicious application of it on his farm, and as long as it lasted reaped the reward of his industry.

BEYOND the space between the boundary and the mountain is a tract of light soil, which may be said to begin under Kelyn,* 5.27 in the township of Uchlan, and continue in a direct line by Tyddin Ycha, to Plas Ycha, in the township of Mostyn. This is extremely well adapted for that useful root the turnep; and it has been tried with success. But the farmer is obliged to give up the cultiva|tion, by reason of the depredations the poor make on the crops. They will steal the turneps before his face, laugh at him when he fumes at them; and ask him, how he can be in such a rage about a few turneps? As a magistrate, I never had a complaint made before

Page 160

me against a turnep-stealer. Our farmers, and our coal-adven|turers, have not yet 'plucked the old woman out of their hearts,' for the last suffer likewise in a great degree in their trade, yet hardly complain. Incredible as it may appear, numbers of them are in fear of being cursed at St. Aelian's well, (see my Tour in Wales, vol. ii. p. 337) and suffer the due penalty of their superstition.

AT uncertain seasons clouds of ring-doves, wood-pigeons or queests, winter-migrants from Scandinavia, have visited our turnep-fields, and done no small damage to the crops.

* 5.28EVERY cottage has its garden; and if that is not large enough, any landlord or neighbor allots him a piece in one of his fields, for the purpose of a potatoe-garden, and this spot is prepared and manured by the landlord, and for which not more than 18 d. per rood is demanded. The last comfort is not of long date, for I can remember the time in which it was almost unknown to the poorer people; neither did the rich extend the culture beyond the garden. How singular does appear to us the following quotation from old Gerard, p. 928, who speaks of it as

being also a meate for pleasure, equall in goodnesse and whole|somenesse vnto the same, being either rosted in the embers, or boyled and eaten with oyle, vinegar, and pepper, or dressed any other way by the hand of some cunning in cookerie.
—At pre|sent our gardeners, and a few others of the parish, raise sufficient to supply their neighbors, and to carry for sale to the adjacent market. The stiff soil of the parish is unfavorable to the cul|ture. If we want potatoes in any quantities, we must import them from the vaie of Conwy, from Cheshire, and Lancashire. In the present time of scarcity, (May 1795) the cultivation

Page 161

has been unusually encreased in Whiteford parish. Before this season, I never raised more than was necessary for the use of my family: this year I increased my potatoe-ground many-fold, even before I had read the speech made by Sir John Sinclair. Thousands have done the same in a similar state of ignorance, some from benevolence, some from view of gain, and others on the principle of self-preservation. I may predict also, from the former motives, that wheat will be in the next season sown four|fold. Admonitions surely are unnecessary. In the next year we may rejoice in plenty, even in superfluity, and have the happiness of seeing the poor man exult in our success.—But the halcyon days are arriving fast. Let us comfort ourselves with the fair prospect before us, and devoutly pray for the accom|plishment of those hopes delivered to us in the following pro|phetic effusions:

Let us cut off those legal bars Which crush the culture of our fertile isle! Were they remov'd, unbounded wealth would flow, Our wastes would then with varied produce smile, And England soon a second Eden prove?

WHEAT grows remarkably well in our clayey land;* 5.29 it is the red kind, that the farmer prefers for seed; it is the hardiest, and the surest of finding sale; the white and the grey being in our country less in request. We raise much more than the parish would consume. The rest is exported to Leverpool, to supply the county of Lancashire with bread, that vast county not being pro|ductive of much wheat. The demand, therefore, from the nu|merous populous towns is very considerable, and at times occa|sions a great rise in the price, and a consequential clamor at home. The complaints are the draining of our county of grain, and the imaginary evil of great farms. Grain is one of the ar|ticles of commerce of the parish; and weaving the support of

Page 162

thousands and thousands of poor in the great county I have men|tioned. We feed them, they supply us with various species of cloathing. As to food, let me add, that the farmers of that county even make us a return in that article; for they supply us with potatoes, as we do them with wheat. We all depend upon one another: so true is it, that

GOD never form'd an independant man
Without such means of sale, or, we may call it, exchange of commodities, the great farmer would cease to plough, would cease to form those magazines of corn, on which, at all times, our markers depend, and which are the great preservative from famine in these kingdoms. At times, bad seasons occasion bad crops, and of course enhance the price. An inordinate lust of gain may sometimes occasion criminal confederacies; which, criminal as they are, have hitherto baffled every attempt of the legis|lature to prevent. The poor are now left quite defenceless against the iniquitous race of forestallers, &c. &c. by the repeal of the 5th and 6th Edw. VI. It is much to be lamented that those humane laws are not revived, modified in any manner adapted to the times. A middle man in great contracts is often requisite: it is not that description of men at whom I aim, but those who in small bargains tempt the farmer, by offers of exor|bitant prices, and contribute to the distresses of the poor, and discontents of the country, to a degree unspeakable. At present a calamitous war assists that evil; but surely we cannot grudge food to our brave countrymen, who are fighting for all that is dear to us. Among them we may have neighbors, sons of tenants, our own sons, or different relations: to whom, if we think a moment, we should be ashamed to deny a share in the produce of the labor of their native country, in which it is possible they themselves might have bore a share.

Page 163

SUPPOSING all farms are reduced to an equality, and all made small ones, the ground must be divided into little portions for the support of a miserable team, or of a few cows, or for raising small quantities of corn. No magazines could be formed against evil days; the produce of the dairy would be small, and the provision for fodder serve for little more than to support the live stock. A few hobbets * 5.30 of corn would be sent to market to pay the rent; the rest might serve to maintain the family till the return of the harvest: and if the stock should be consumed before that season, how would they wish for the restoring of the great farms! Many of the little farmers are also day-laborers: to whom could they apply for work, the very support of them and their families? NEVER HAS THERE BEEN A FAMINE IN ENG|LAND SINCE THE INTRODUCTION OF GREAT FARMS. Unavoidable scarcities will happen, from causes inevitable. But there has not been an instance, for numbers of centuries, of the poor running into corners to die for want of food; of their seeing their infants perish before their eyes; and perhaps a plague might ensue, the consequence of famine, to thin the land of multitudes of the mi|serable survivors.

I SPEAK disinterestedly, for I have not on my estate a single great farmer. I find no merit in this assertion; had it been otherwise, I should have supported him in all that was right, in common with my poorest tenant, and my poorest tenant perhaps in pre|ference to him.

Page 164

I WOULD never grant a lease to a great corn-tenant. I would preserve a power over his granary, which legislature will not or cannot assume. Should he attempt by exportation to exhaust it, in years of scarcity, and not leave a sufficient supply for the country which produced the grain; should he attempt a monopoly; should he refuse to carry a proper quantity to the next market; or should he refuse to sell to the poor, who cannot attend the market, corn in small quantities, I would instantly assume the power of the landlord, and expel him from my estate: a just pu|nishment for the tenant, who, through rapacity, declines to com|ply with my desires, excited with no other view than to promote the good of the public.

THE necessity of great farms is admitted; but let it be re|membered, that their support rests upon the laborers, who are equally requisite to the great farmer as beams are to a building. Let not the rapacity of the miscalled great man direct all his force to the support of the opulent farmer, for the sake of in|creased rent. He will (as sad examples prove) depopulate his country by removing the sturdy laborers to the ground of wiser landlords, and leave his own weakened by their desertion; while the fields of the former laugh and sing, but round his own, ingens it solitudo.

I COULD wish (was it in my power) to add even to the cot|tages of my laborers two or three small fields, that they might have the comfort of a cow, to supply their families with milk. They are too useful a class of men to be neglected: to be left to the precarious possibility of getting any of that invigorating fluid, so necessary for their infants, and even for the support of their

Page 165

own strength, to sustain them through their labor. Give them a dry stated cottage, with an upper floor, and a kind landlord, and a British laborer need not envy Caesar.

BEFORE I take leave of the subject, let me define the size of a great and a small farm in this parish. Our greatest farm is rented at £. 110 per ann. at the rate of about 14 s. per acre. Our small farms have from 20 to 10 acres; and the rent per acre from 12 s. to 7 s. There may be in every parish instances of the exorbi|tant raise of rent: an evil most frequently originating in the luxury of the landlord. Our rents are moderate, because our gentry would blush to add one dish to their table at the expence of the tenant. Mr. Wedge, in his Survey of Cheshire, p. 72, speaks humanely and sensibly on the affected maxim of

high rents being a spur to industry.
This (for I must help Mr. Wedge with a simile) resembles the practice of the prudent planter, who wishes to quicken the industry of his negroes by the invigorating appli|cation of the cart-whip to their velvet skin.

IN respect to leases, the utility is not perfectly agreed on. In our parts of North Wales I have known lease-tenants of very mo|derate rent continue on their farms their whole term without suc|cess: and I know in this parish, and within a small distance, seve|ral rack-rent tenants, with large farms, the most prosperous of any in the country. They improve boldly, and reap amply the fruits of their industry. They have confidence in their landlords, nor can they recollect more than one instance (and that indeed disgrace|ful enough * 5.31) in which they found it misplaced. They are masters

Page 166

of the knowlege of the soil, and the nature of the climate of their own country. The appearance of their tenements does them credit. When they heard of a person sent among them to inculcate the principles of good farming, they smiled at the design, but spoke with gratitude of the kind intent of the Board of Agriculture. Denbighshire has long had its little board, for North Wales does not neglect its own interests. An agricultural society has, for a number of years, been estabished in the vale of Clwyd. None who have visited that beautiful tract can deny the general excellency of its culture.

IN Cheshire the antient practice of leasing is growing fast out of use: and agriculture will increase in that county in proportion.

MR. George Kay, of Leith, the missionary to whom was commit|ted the inspection of every farm in the six counties of North Wales, favored me with a call some time in the last summer, and delivered to me his credentials from Sir John Sinclair. I was really at the time out of spirits. At the same time, a report was circulated, that the object of the mission was to ascertain the reality of our land-tax; which was much credited by my coun|trymen. I was certain that the report was entirely unfounded; but I did not chuse to trouble myself with militating against what I knew must speedily become self-confuted. I treated Mr. Kay with all civility. He left me, and I believe, through all his journey, (one place excepted) had no reason to complain of the reception he met with. Sir John Sinclair is a man of honor. He had not the lest occasion to give himself the trouble of making to me so earnest an asseveration of the purity of his intentions, as he did in his last favor. He is above taking clandestine means of getting at any kind of information.

Page 167

WE lament that Mr. Kay did not see, in any one of our six counties, a single custom that could be useful to others * 5.32. From the state of numbers of our farms, I suspect that we had pre|viously adopted many methods of agriculture from English coun|ties, which must have occasioned his remark. I would fain pay that compliment to his candour. On the whole, I fear that the mission has passed most unprofitably to both visitor and visitè. Nothing seems to have been learned by the one, and nothing taught by the other.

WE thatch our hay-ricks with admirable neatness, and in that manner preserve the hay for years. I do not know a better expedient, even could the landlord afford to every little farm a hay-barn, or give them a moveable canopy, which is liable per|petually to be out of order. Necessity in every country causes different modes of oeconomy. Send Shenkin ap Morgan on a survey of Cathness, and he would at first stare at the bykes † 5.33, but would admire the ingenuity of the contrivances, and acknowlege the wisdom of the farmer in the preservation of his grain, where other means were wanting.

THERE are, certainly, both beyond the Tweed, and beyond the Dee, many thousands of acres, of which a tenant should be court|ed to attempt the cultivation, and be bribed by leases to settle upon them. In North Britain the practice is common. In North Wales, our mountain landlords rarely grant leases, possibly from their not finding the necessity.

IN all the mineral part of Flintshire are numbers of small farms, tenanted by carriers, who entirely support themselves by the

Page 168

carriage of the lead ore, and calamine or coal. These are reck|oned the most slovenly farmers we have. They apply them|selves to carriage to such a degree, as to neglect their tenements. The minerals are the great natural staple of this, and most of the parishes; so that these species of farms are quite indispensable.

LET not the little farmer, or the cottager, repine at the wealth of the great farmers. It is not many weeks since their empty stomachs have been filled from the hoards of the latter. Had they not been able to form a stock, or to enable by sale others to do so, what would have become of you? The good, the bene|volent, have been able to purchase from them the food that has contributed to preserve, for many months, you and your's from cruel want. The instances of the recent charities have not been equalled. I may speak of the universal charities. But I will recal to your minds those of your several neighborhoods. In public calamities little souls lie squat in their holes: great souls arise, and are called forth to action; some from a generous sensibi|lity, others from selfish motives. I cannot but confess myself to be among the latter. I am selfish enough to wish to put out my money at lest on reversionary interest, but that on security incontestible.

HE THAT HATH PITY ON THE POOR LENDETH TO THE LORD; AND LOOK WHAT HE LAYETH OUT, IT SHALL BE PAID TO HIM AGAIN!
With what animated benevolence of sentiment doth Sir Thomas Broune comment on this pious exhortation! 'There is,' says the great physician of Norwich,
more rhetoric in that one sentence than in a library of sermons; and, indeed, if those sentences were understood by the reader, with the same em|phasis as they were delivered by the Author, we needed not those volumes of instructions, but might be honest by epitome.

Page 169

THE produce of the wheat of this parish is from seven and eight fold, to twelve or thirteen,* 5.34 according to the pains taken with the ground, or the nature of it. Our general manure is lime, burnt in sod-kilns. The lime-stone, broken small,* 5.35 is placed within a thick circular wall of sods, and the strata of stone, broken small, interlaid with beds of coal, which is set on fire by wood placed in certain holes left at the sides. These holes serve likewise to ad|mit the air, which promotes the fierceness of the fire within. The lime-stones are piled in a conic form, to a great height above the top of the sod-wall, and then covered thickly with sods. I must mention that the holes are four in number, placed opposite to each other, and have a gutter cut from one to the other, which is left hollow by means of flat stones over them, to promote the current of air. A circular gutter also runs close to the interior side of the sod wall. A common-sized kiln will require about sixteen tons of stone: but there are larger, and those often of an oval form.

SOMETIMES the lime-stone is burnt in common kilns, then taken and carried to form a compost with earth, which had been deposited in some adjacent place, and which usually had been dug out of old ditches. The lime is intimately mixed with it, and left a considerable time to mature, after which it is applied to use.

OUR best barley is raised in the light soil which we have men|tioned at p. 159.* 5.36 In general our farmers prepare the ground for barley by giving it a fallow in December or January, and again harrow and plough it the latter end of April or beginning of May. In the stiffer lands the crops are frequently very un|favorable.

Page 170

The quantity raised is not equal to the consump|tion. It is the principal grain used by our common people. The produce from the hobbet is about equal to that of the wheat.

* 5.37OATS are chiefly sown in the mountain inclosures, or on the lands adjacent to the mountains. The produce is by no means equal to our demand.

* 5.38THE artificial grasses are but two. Clover (the red sort) which we sow immediately after the barley.* 5.39 When the clover is sowen by itself, or without any other grass-seeds, the quantity to each acre is eighteen or twenty pounds. It is not a favorite grass, but we do not know how to remedy ourselves. It wears out in less than three years, after which we renew the ground with a crop of wheat, managed as before related. The clover-seed is procured from the vale of Clwyd, and other places where the plant is culti|vated for the sake of the seed.

* 5.40RYE-GRASS is sowen in our poor land; which, if not harvested early, is little better than a fodder of straw.

I VALUE myself on being the first in this parish who introduced on my estate the husbandry of draining and flooding, which I did last autumn, and throughout the winter, on a great number of acres. I did intend to desist from working after Christmas, had I not been induced to continue it throughout the season, in consi|deration of the numbers of poor people who were in the deepest distress for want o employ. The season was so rigorous, that the laborers were obliged to break into the unfrozen ground with the pick-ax, before they could use the spade. This, and the short days, made the work very expensive: but I was far

Page 171

over-paid by the consideration of having given food to mul|titudes, who in themselves or their families must otherwise have labored under the greatest difficulties. The undertaker was Mr. Henry Harrison, who followed the most approved practice. I flatter myself that in the ensuing year I shall experience the effects of his skill.

To clear the free-holders of Whiteford parish from any inatten|tion to that important article of husbandry, planting,* 5.41 I bring the brief, but irresistible, defence of—the impossibility. The dingles are filled with oaks. I believe there is not one of us have any waste ground for the purpose. All our tenements consist of arable or pasture land, too valuable to be spared for any other purpose in this populous parish. Sir Roger Mostyn, on his coming to his estate, planted the little that had been cleared by his predecessor. Besides Mostyn or Whiteford wood (see p. 25) many of our very hedges are filled with oaks: possibly they do not benefit our land by their shade, but a few of us are true druids; and should we apply the ax, we should imagine that we heard the groans of the Hamadryads at every stroke.

I AM, in particular, so very avaricious of my woods, that at this instant of writing, I, with true reluctance, sign to my son the death-warrant of a few stag-horned trees, that have far outlived the best of their days. They, in all probability, would have had a re|spite, could I move from my couch to take a look at my antient favorites. But the void space shall be instantly inclosed, and, I may promise, that in a short time it will be filled with the best of successors, self-sown, from some of their own descendants, their eldest and most sturdy progeny.

Page 172

* 5.42IF we of Whiteford parish are deprived of the possibility of planting within its limits, yet we can boast of a Flintshire gentle|man, who probably will be found to have contributed as a planter more to the benefit of his heir and of the state, than any other in the principality, in this age, or any past. I mean Sir Edward Lloyd, bart. of Pengwern, in the parish of St. Asaph, who finished his long and useful life on May the 26th of the present year. On his Flintshire estates he has planted a hundred and sixty-two thou|sand trees; and on his estate at Pant-glâs, in the county of Caer|narvon, more than three hundred and twenty thousand. Most of the trees are oaks, which in future times may float on the ocean, guardians of Britain, in distant wars, excited, either by the ambi|tion of foreign states, or by the incendiary machinations of domes|tic male-contents.—Even at present what have we to dread! The maritime genius of our island at length begins to smile on her again, and vigor and activity once more will fill every sail. The great spirit of old Sandwich has transmigrated, leaving behind the frailties of its mortal state, purified and congenialized to the breast it has taken possession of, on its return to the wonted Board, to re|sume its well-known powers.

Haud segnis strato surgit Palimrus, et omnes Explorat ventos: atque curibus aera captat.

Notes

Do you have questions about this content? Need to report a problem? Please contact us.