A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson: [pt.2]

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A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson: [pt.2]
Author
Hutchinson, William, 1732-1814.
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Newcastle :: printed by T. Saint, for W. Charnley, and Messrs Vesey & Whitfield,
1778 [1779?]
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"A view of Northumberland with an excursion to the abbey of Mailross in Scotland. By W. Hutchinson: [pt.2]." In the digital collection Eighteenth Century Collections Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/004863774.0001.002. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 25, 2025.

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Page [unnumbered]

A VIEW OF NORTHUMBERLAND.

WE repassed the Tweed by Coldstream Bridge, a handsome structure of seven arches, having had

WARK CASTLE

in view for several miles of our passage down the banks of the river: a small part of it standing, forms a rude pillar, which at a distance ap∣pears of some consequence. A platform lays to the west, with a trench called Gully's Nich; a mean village to the east, from whence you ap∣proach the castle. This fortress stood on a circular eminence, formed by art: its founder is not positively known, nor is any certain date fixed to it. In Leland's Collectanea, part 1. p. 531. it is said,

King Henry the 2 causid the Castel of Werke to be made.
From several circumstances of history, it appears, that it was formidable so early as the beginning of the 12th century.* 1.1

Page 2

Near this place are several intrenchments, some of which are de∣fended by mounds of earth.* 1.2 There is a spot adjoining called the Battle Place; but from what particular event it obtained that denomi∣nation is not known. As being on the borders, this castle was subject to repeated assaults.

On King Stephen's usurpation of the English crown, David of Scot∣land, with great indignation, entered the borders, and among other fortresses assaulted and took Carrum, which Richard of Hexham says was by the English called Werk.† 1.3 On a treaty held whilst Stephen lay at Durham and David at Newcastle, these conquests were restored by the Scotch King, who took as a compensation, Carlisle and some other places of less import, as additions to the Earldom of Huntington, which was then ratified to him: Stephen also engaged, that before any dispo∣sition was made of the Earldom of Northumberland, he would cause the claim of Henry (David's son) thereto, in right of his mother, to be fairly heard by his Judges. David received in marriage, from King Henry I. of England, his brother-in-law, Maud, the eldest daughter of Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, from whom Henry his son de∣rived his pretensions to that Earldom. Henry, by the resignation of his father, and King Stephen's ratification, held the Earldom of Hunting∣ton.

The determination of Henry's claim to Northumberland being sus∣pended, and Stephen unwilling to bring it to a fair discussion, sensible of the great power it would give to the Scotch crown, irritated David to support his son's pretensions by force of arms. Stephen's absence in Normandy favoured his purpose; and soon after Easter, in the year 1137, he levied a great army, with intent to invade England. The northern Barons, with Thurstan Archbishop of York, assembled the English forces at Newcastle; and the Archbishop proceeding to Rox∣burgh, then in the possession of the Scotch King, in conference with David and his son, prevailed on them to enter into a truce till Stephen's return, when it was presumed the matter in contest would be honour∣ably accommodated: but Stephen persisting in a denial of Henry's right, war immediately ensued.

Page 3

The winter was set in, when David, flattered with hopes of an in∣surrection in England, a plot * 1.4 having been laid to massacre all the Normans, and deliver the kingdom to him, who was nearest heir in the Saxon line, not regarding the rigour of the season, dispatched his ne∣phew William, son of Duncan, with part of his army, against the Castle of Wark.† 1.5

William invested this fortress early in the morning, and David with a numerous army and engines of war, advanced soon afterwards to maintain the siege. This investiture continued three weeks, during which time the most vigorous assaults were sustained by the garrison, under command of Jordan de Bussis, nephew of Walter D'Espec, Lord of Wark.‡ 1.6

Page 4

David was obliged to raise the siege with disgrace; his forces were much reduced, and his Standard-bearer fell among the slain. The bor∣der conflicts were all after one mode, rendered horrible by ravage and rapine. David, after his departure from before Wark, led his forces to the western parts of Northumberland, where he spread desolation and ruin, and marked his progress as far as Tyne with acts of savage cruelty.

To oppose these invaders, Stephen at the head of a numerous army advanced to Wark, which obliged David to abandon Northumberland, and prepare to defend his own territories: but Stephen, apprized of a plot which was laid to entrap him at Roxburgh, returned to England without effecting any thing against his enemy. David seeing the Eng∣lish forces had abandoned the border, after taking and demolishing Norham, advanced against Wark, to revenge an insult the garrison had committed, by taking some baggage, and giving annoyance to his troops, marching under his son Henry. His success in this second at∣tempt was no better than in his former assault; he exerted his powers, employed every engine the art of war had introduced, and with much

Page 5

bloodshed persisted in the siege; till conceiving the fortress was im∣pregnable to every other manoeuvre than a blockade, which could cut off provisions and reinforcement, he determined thereon; and march∣ing southward with the main body of his army, left there a circumval∣lation of troops, under the care of two of his Barons.

David soon after had a dreadful defeat near Northallerton, at the Battle of the Standard; after which he retreated with the shattered remains of his troops to Carlisle, through a country enraged at the barbarities he had been guilty of in his former incursion: the peasants in every avenue revenging on his flying troops, the sufferings their families had sus∣tained. After a short respite, and a collection of his scattered army at Carlisle, he commanded the siege of Wark to be resumed, in which many new-invented engines and machines were employed. The be∣sieged with unparallelled fortitude sustained the shock: their skilfulness is as admirable as their courage, for they lost but one Knight, whose in∣trepidity in attacking a machine, exposed him to numbers of assailants, in the midst of whom he fell, after testifying the highest human valour. The slaughter made by the garrison was terrible; insomuch that David, relaxing his rigorous command, ceased all assaults, and again formed a strong blockade. The garrison were reduced to great extremities; they had killed their horses, and salted their flesh for food, and when that was nearly consumed, resolved, as soon as all provision was exhausted, to make a general sally, and cut their passage through the lines of the assailants, or die sword in hand. During this interval, Walter D'Espec, their Lord, willing to preserve so brave a corps, sent the Abbot of Rie∣valle with his command, that the garrison should surrender the place: on whose arrival a treaty was entered into, in consequence of which the garrison capitulated, and were permitted to march out of the castle un∣der arms, with 20 horses provided them by the Scotch King. On this evacuation, the castle was demolished, and the fortifications were rased.

King Henry II. to strengthen the frontiers of his kingdom against the Scots, ordered the fortifications of the castle of Wark to be restored.* 1.8

King John, in the year 1215, in resentment of the defection of the northern Barons, who had done homage to Alexander II. at Mailross,

Page 6

advanced to the borders, and, amongst other places, reduced Wark to ashes. M. Paris gives the following account of this horrid expedition:

Deinde Rex Ira succensus, vehementi apud partes Scotiae tendebat cismarinas, et captis Castris de Berwic, et aliis quae videbantur inex∣pugnabilia, improperavit Regi Alexandro, et quia erat Rufus, signi∣cavit ei, dicens, sic sic fugabimus rubeam vulpeculam latibulis suis, multum igitur ibidem stragem et exterminium exercuisset, nisi eundem necessitas magna dilationem non capiens revocasset.

King Edward, on the breach of fealty by John Baliol, in the year 1296, having levied a great army, advanced towards the Scotch bor∣ders; and halting at Bamburgh, received intelligence that Robert de Ross, Lord of Wark, had abandoned his castle, and gone over to the Scots, being enamoured of a Scotch woman, whose affection he pre∣ferred to his duty and allegiance: his brother William remaining in the fortress, dispatched a messenger to require immediate aid of the King, as he apprehended Robert would attempt to deliver Wark to the enemy. King Edward immediately ordered 1000 men to march to sustain William and his garrison, who, on their arrival, were attacked in their quarters in the night, in a small village called Prestfeu, by Ro∣bert de Ross, with a detachment from Roxburgh, who burnt the village, and put the reinforcement to the sword. King Edward soon after this disaster marched with his whole army to Wark, where he continued to celebrate the festival of Easter.

In the reign of King Edward II. 1318, Wark was taken by the Scots, under King Robert Brus, by assault. In Leland's Collecta. p. 548, it is said, that the Scottes came into the Marches of England, and de∣stroyed the castelles of Wark and Harbottle.

As King David Bruce with his victorious army was returning from Durham in the summer of the year 1341, where he had imbrued his hands in the horrid massacre of all ages and both sexes, had spoiled and plundered the sacred places, and put the religious to miserable deaths, the rear of his army passing the castle of Wark loaden with spoils, were seen by the garrison with the greatest indignation. Sir William Mon∣tague was then Governor, and the Countess of Salisbury, whose Lord the fortress then belonged to, resided there. The Governor with 40 horsemen made a sally, attended with considerable slaughter, bringing into the castle 160 horses laden with booty. King David, incensed at

Page 7

this insult, led his army against the castle, and made a general assault, but met with a repulse attended with great bloodshed. David then prepared to fill up the ditches, and bring his battering engines to play upon the walls: the imminent danger of the garrison rendered it neces∣sary to send information of their situation to the English Monarch, who was approaching the borders with a considerable army. The place be∣ing close invested, rendered such an attempt perilous, but it was ef∣fected by the Governor himself, on a fleet horse, in the darkness and tumult of a stormy night: he passed through the enemy's lines, and carried intelligence to King Edward, who redoubled his speed to relieve the place. The Scotch Chieftains, unwilling to hazard the treasures they had reaped in their expedition, persuaded the King to raise the siege and pass the Tweed; which was done only six hours before the van of the English army appeared. The joy of the Countess of Salisbury for this relief, and her pleasing deportment whilst she entertained the King at Wark, were the beginning of an amour, to which the famous institution of the order of the Garter is said to owe its origin.

In the reign of King Richard II. 1383,* 1.9 it was besieged by the Scots, and part of the fortifications destroyed.

Soon after the accession of King Henry IV. the truce made with Richard II. expiring, the Scots made an incursion, in which they took the castle of Wark, and after holding it some time, utterly demolished the works. It was a fortress of too much consequence to be neglected, and therefore we find it soon after restored and in a state of defence: for in the same reign it sustained many shocks, with various degrees of fortune. In 1419, in the absence of the King of England, who was then in France, hostilities being commenced on the borders, William Haliburton of Fast Castle took the castle of Wark, which was then in the keeping of Robert Ogle, and put all the garrison to the sword; but it was soon recovered by the English, who, from a perfect knowledge of the place, made their way by a sewer which led from the kitchen into the Tweed, and surprizing the garrison, put them all to death, in revenge for their cruelty on Ogle's troops.

Page 8

In the reign of Henry VI. 1460, the Scots gathered great booty on the Marches, and among many other castles which they assailed, Wark was taken and demolished.

The castle was afterwards repaired by the Earl of Surry, and in the year 1523, in the 15th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. the Scotch army laying at Coldstream, resolved to attempt the reduction of Wark, under the command of the Duke of Albany, Sir John Lisle be∣ing then Governor. Buchanan the Historian, being present at the siege, gives the following description of the castle:

In the innermost area was a tower of great strength and height; this was encircled by by two walls, the outer including a large space, into which the inha∣bitants of the country used to fly, with their cattle, corn, and flocks, in time of war; the inner of much smaller extent, but fortified more strongly by ditches and towers. It had a strong garrison, good store of artillery and ammunition, and other things necessary for defence.
The Duke of Albany sent against it battering cannon, and a chosen band of Scots and French, to the number of 4000, under the command of Andrew Ker of Fairnherst. The French carried the outer inclosure at the first assault, but they were dislodged by the garrison setting fire to the corn and straw laid up therein. The besiegers soon recovered it, and by their cannon effected a breach in the inner wall. The French with great intrepidity mounted the breach, sustaining great loss by the shot of those who possessed the tower or keep, and being warmly re∣ceived by the forces that defended the inner ballium, were obliged to retire after a great slaughter. The attack was to be renewed the suc∣ceeding day, but a fall of rain in the night, which swelled the Tweed, and threatened to cut off the retreat of the assailants to the main army, and the approach of the Earl of Surry, who before lay at Alnwick with a large force, obliged the Duke to relinquish his design, and repass the Tweed.

The present remains of Wark do not in any wise strike the traveller with an idea of so formidable a fortress, as it assuredly was for many centuries. At what time it was dismantled, and thus totally destroyed, I have not been able to learn; but it is probable it was one of the strong∣holds ordered to be demolished by King James VI. of Scotland, on his accession to the crown of England.

Page 9

The great convention for the settlement of the tenths demanded by King Henry II. in the year 1188, was held at Brigham, near Wark. Hugh Bishop of Durham was the chief of King Henry's Envoys, and was met by King William the Lion of Scotland, his Bishops, Earls, Barons, and a vast concourse of inferior vassals, when the Scotch re∣jected the demand with the utmost contempt. In the year 1549, we read of Wark receiving the Earl of Rutland and his army after their Scotch expedition.

Wark was the barony and ancient possession of the family of Ross.* 1.10 William de Ross was a competitor for the Crown of Scotland in the 20th year of King Edward I. and was one of those Lords who, in 1301, pro∣tested against the supremacy of the See of Rome over Scotland.† 1.11 John Lord Ross, Baron of Wark, was one of the guardians of the Crown, during the minority of King Edward III. It continued in that family to the end of the 14th century, when (by the escheats of King Henry IV.) it appears to have become the possession of the Greys,‡ 1.12 who took their

Page 10

title from the place;* 1.13 in the descendants of which family it has conti∣nued to the present time, being now the property of Lord Tankerville. Mr Pennant remarks from the Life of Lord Keeper Guildford, that

after the union of the two kingdoms by the accession of King James I. Lord Grey's estate rose from 1000l. to 7 or 8000l. a year, so instantly did these parts experience the benefit.
—Near to Wark lays

CARHAM,

memorable for the battle fought here with the Danes. In Leland's Col. p. 520, it is thus mentioned:

In the 33 yere of Ecbrighth the Danis arrived at Lindisfarne, and fought with the Engles at Carham, wher eleven Bishopes and 2 Englisch Countes were slayne, and greate num∣bre of people.
At this place a great battle was fought in the year 1018, in which the Scots were victorious, and almost all the fighting men between Tees and Tweed were cut off, together with their Chief∣tains; on which event it is said by some authors, that Aldun Bishop of Durham died broken-hearted.† 1.14

Here was an Abbey of Black Canons, subordinate to Kirkham in York∣shire. In the 24th year of King Edward I. it was burnt by the Scots, then led by Wallace, whose encampment gave name to an adjacent field. In Edward's letter to Pope Boniface, he describes their cruelties in a most horrible manner;

The Scots inhumanly de∣stroyed an innumerable multitude of his subjects, burnt monasteries, churches, and towns; with an unpitying and savage cruelty, slew infants in their cradles, and women in child-bed, barbarously cut off womens breasts, and burnt in a school, whose doors they first built

Page 11

up, about 200 young men, who were learning their first letters and grammar.
Rym. II. 887. In the 44th year of King Edward III. 1370, Sir John Lilburn was defeated by the Scots near this place, under the command of Sir John Gordon, who was returning from an incursion with many prisoners, and a great train of cattle: the engagement was fierce, and its decision long doubtful, the Scots being driven from their ground and returning again five several times. In the end Sir John and his brother were made prisoners.

We arrived at

CORNHILL,

noted for the valuable Spaws near it. By the escheats of the 1st year of King Edward I. we find this place mentioned as the possession of William de Cornhill. The castle of Cornhill, I presume, was the fort or tower, near Cornhill Bridge, and opposite to Linnel House. The remains are surrounded with a ditch, called the Castle Stone Nich. It has been well situated for defending the passage over the river. Here is a seat house of Henry Collingwood, Esq commanding a view of the ground we had traversed on the north side of Tweed, extended to the Helton Moun∣tains; and on the southern side of the river having a prospect of a wide country, over which many Gentlemen's seats are dispersed, the whole closed by a range of mountains, of which Cheviots are supreme. In 1549, on an incursion of the Scots, they took the castle of Cornhill, described as being an old house of considerable strength,* 1.15 and a valu∣able booty was gained.

In 1751, in pulling down Cornhill chapel, there was found, about three feet lower than the old foundation, a coffin of stone, about eight feet long, in which were two urns of coarse pottery, and the shank bones and scull of a person of great size.

South-east of Cornhill is a remarkable encampment, but to what people or to what particular event they appertained, I have gained no certain information. The several lines are of great extent, but as they form no regular figure, in their present state, do not merit a par∣ticular description: what is worthy of notice, is the mode in which the

Page 12

works are defended, by ranges of conic eminences; a thing singular, and what rather confounds my judgment as to the antiquity of the place, and who were its occupants. Mr Wallis says they are sepulchral Tumuli; from which opinion I must beg leave to dissent.

In Branxton West Field is a column, placed as a memorial of the battle fought there on the 9th of September, in the 5th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. called the battle of Flodden Field, from the Scotch encampment on Flodden Hill. The disposition of the Earl of Surry's forces was such, as to oblige the Scotch to come to an en∣gagement, their retreat into their own country being cut off.

James IV. had wasted much time at Ford, captivated, as it is said, by the beauties of the daughter of Sir William Heron, so as give the Earl of Surry time and opportunity for advancing towards the borders with a large army. The Scottish Nobles were averse to hazarding a battle, and strenuously insisted on the policy of their return into their own country, loaded as they were with spoils, and having gathered many laurels in their campaign: but James, fired with resentment at the challenges sent by Surry, determined to engage the English, and for that purpose made choice of an advantageous situation for his army, in the neighbourhood of Ford. The eminence called Flodden, lays on the opposite side of the river Till; it is the last and lowest of those hills that extend on the north-east of the great mountain of Cheviot, towards the low grounds on the side of the Tweed; from which river, Flodden is distant about four miles: The ascent to the top of it, from the side of the river Till, where it takes a northerly direction, just by the foot of the declivity on which the castle and village of Ford stands, is about half a mile; and over the Till, at that place, there is a bridge. On the south of Flodden, lays the extensive and very level plain of Mil∣field; having on its west side high hills, the branches of Cheviot; on the north, Flodden and other moderate eminences adjoining to it; on the south and east, a tract of rising grounds, nigh the foot of which is the slow and winding course of the Till. The nearest approach for the English army to Flodden, was through this plain, in every part whereof they would have been in full view of the Scots; where they had a great advantage in possessing an eminence, which on the side towards the English had a long declivity, with hollow and marshy grounds at its foot; while its crown contained such an extent of almost level ground, as would have sufficed for drawing up in good order the forces that

Page 13

occupied it. Surry encamped on Wooler Haugh, on the 7th of Septem∣ber, 1513, sent a Herald with a challenge, to join battle in the plain the next day, between the hours of twelve and three. This challenge was dated the 7th of September, 5 o'clock in the afternoon, as appears by Stowe, p. 493. The names of the subscribers were, Surry and his Son, Thomas Dacre, Clifford, Henry Scrope, Ralph Scrope, Richard Latimer, William Conyers, John Lumley, R. Ogle, William Percy, Edward Stanley, William Molineux, Marmaduke Constable, William Gascoyne, William Griffith, George Darcy, William Bulmer, Thomas Strangeways, &c. James did not accept the challenge, but lay in his intrenchments, whilst Surry ad∣vanced his army near to Barmoor Wood, about two miles distant from the Scotch army, and lay there all night. A little hill on the east of Ford, covered the English army from the observation of their enemies; whilst, from this eminence, the Lord Admiral obtained a distinct view of all the Scottish army, and of all the eminences near it. The next morning the English made some marches to amuse the enemy, and then gained the ground which cut off James's retreat to Scotland. By this position of his forces, Surry had an access opened to the Scottish camp, much less difficult and dangerous than on the other side of Flod∣den. The batteries raised by the Scotch to command the Bridge of of Ford, of which the vestiges still remain, were now rendered of no use. The Scots, deluded either by the treacherous advice of one Giles Musgrave, who engaged the King's confidence, and abused the royal ear, or depending that Surry, by his mode of marching the army, in∣tended to gain Berwick, and avoid a battle, appeared now to be con∣founded by the manoeuvres of the English, which bespoke their deter∣mination to come to an engagement; in order to receive them with the greater advantage, and to gain the ground they supposed the English would attempt to possess, on the western side of the hill, the Scots set fire to their huts on the eastern side, and made a motion to the west. The smoke being driven between the armies, concealed the progress the English were making, till they had almost gained the foot of the hill. Surry observed the confusion his approach had occasioned among the Scotch troops, and finding the ascent of the hill short and mode∣rately steep, determined not to delay the onset.

The English were disposed in three divisions; the van under Thomas Howard, the General's eldest son, Lord Admiral of England, the right wing being led by Sir Edmund Howard, brother to Lord Thomas, and Knight Marshal of the army. The middle division, or main battle, was

Page 14

led by the Earl of Surry in person, and the rear by Sir Edward Stanley. The Lord Dacres commanded a body of reserve, consisting of horsemen. The ordnance was placed in the front of the battle, and in the openings of the several divisions. After they had passed the little brook of Sandy∣ford, the Lord Admiral perceiving the Scots approaching towards him, drawn up in four great bodies, armed with long spears, like Moorish pikes, sent to his father the Agnus Dei that hung at his breast, as a token, accompanying a request, that as the van of the army was not sufficiently strong or extensive to receive the brunt of the whole Scottish army, his father would bring up the forces of his division, and range them in a line with the van. The English General, convinced of the expediency of this disposition, immediately came forward with his forces, and drew them up to the left of those of his son. The mode in which the Scots advanced to battle is variously described: Paulus Jovius says, they were formed in five square bodies, so that the third of those in which the royal standard was erected, and all the chief men fought, was inclosed on each side by a double line, forming, as it were, two wings. Comparing the several accounts, it seems most probable that the battalia was thus arranged: The van of the Scotch army led on the right by Alexander Gordon Earl of Huntley, and on the left by the Earls of Crawford and Montrose, and some say Lord Hume: the King was in the center or main body: a third division was commanded by the Earls of Lenox and Argyle with whom were Mackenzie, Maclean, and the Highlanders. Adam Hepburn Earl of Bothwell, with his kindred and clan, and the men of Lothian formed a body of reserve. They had with them a large train of artillery. The English artillery began to play, which made a dreadful carnage, whilst the Scotch cannon, from their high situation, took little or no effect, the shot going over the heads of the English. This obliged the Scotch to advance, the Earls of Lenox and Argyle, to∣gether with Lord Hume, moving with a body of ten thousand spearmen, supported by some horse, down the hill towards Branxion, made a fierce attack on the wing commanded by Sir Edmund Howard. The shock was violent, the Scots prevailed, and Sir Edmund was reduced to the last extremity, himself beaten to the ground the third time, and in im∣minent peril of Death, when Lord Dacres, and Heron the Bastard, who had joined the English army with a troop of fierce outlaws, his fol∣lowers, came in time to his rescue. Sir Edmund, thus relieved, imme∣diately joined the body commanded by his brother Lord Thomas, and they advancing against the Earls of Crawford and Montrose, whose troops were armed with spears, put them to the rout, and both the Earls were

Page 15

slain. On the other side of the field, Sir William Stanley, with the forces from Lancashire and Cheshire, being bowmen, forced the Scots to break their array, and descend to closer fight, in more even ground, where they were soon thrown into confusion, and put to flight, after leaving the Earls of Argyle and Lenox with the slain. The English attributed this success to the archers, but the Scotch writers alledge, the miscarriage of this part of their army was owing to the undisciplined ferocity of the Highlanders, who, animated by the success of the attack made on that wing of the English army commanded by Sir Edmund Howard, could not be restrained from rushing impetuously forward, in an irre∣gular and open manner, notwithstanding the signals, cries, and menaces of the French Ambassador La Motte, who perceived the consequence of such an improper and loose attack. The King of Scotland, whose bra∣very kindled to extravagance of courage at the perils which now seem∣ed to surround him, deaf to every advice and remonstrance, pressed forward, and exposed his royal person to all the dangers of the field: being sustained by Bothwell and his band, he charged on foot, at the head of the best of his troops, whose armour resisted the arrows of the English archery; he pressed forward to the standards of the Earl of Surry, and with such ardour and valour, that they were nearly gained by this heroic phalanx: but at length the wings of the Scotch army being totally routed, all the English forces were employed against this valiant band, who were surrounded by the coming in of Lord Dacre's horse in the rear.

A considerable body of Borderers, commanded by Lord Hume, stood aloof during the most arduous part of the battle; and when he was required by Huntley, to attempt the King's deliverance from the circle of his enemies, he answered,

that the man did well that day that stood and saved himself.
Before the battle the old Earl of Angus, anxious to dissuade the King from engaging, was told by his Sovereign, that if he was afraid he might go home. The Earl judging it repugnant to his honour, to fight under the standard of a Prince from whom he had received so great an affront, requested he might be dismissed the ser∣vice; but as pledges of his loyalty and firm attachment to James, left as hostages of his honour, a large body of kindred and dependents, with his two sons, who both fell in the battle.

This memorable battle began at four o'clock in the afternoon, and continued till it was dark. King James IV. was slain, with his natural

Page 16

son, the Bishop of St Andrews,* 1.16 two other Scotch Prelates, four Abbots, twelve Earls, seventeen Lords, four hundred Knights, and seventeen thousand others, among whom were many Esquires and men of note.

Page 17

When the Scotch King was perceived to be in imminent danger, those near his person formed themselves in circular order, and all fell by the sword, except Sir William Scott his Chancellor, and Sir John Foreman,

Page 18

who were taken prisoners. The royal body was not discovered till the next day, when, in a circle of his slain Nobility, he was found by Lord Dacres, who was well acquainted with his person. After the royal re∣mains were removed to Berwick, Sir William Scott, Chancellor of Scot∣land, and Sir John Foreman, prisoners there, acknowledged the body of their late Sovereign. He was wounded in many parts, pierced also by several arrows; his left hand was almost severed from the arm by two several wounds, and his neck was laid open to the middle. How un∣fortunate was this race of Kings! James I. was murdered by the Earl of Athol, his uncle, in his palace. James II. died by the bursting of a piece of his own ordnance. James III. was slain by rebels, headed by his own son, James IV. whose miserable death is above described. His body was embalmed at Berwick, and from thence conveyed to the monastery of Sheene, where, at the dissolution, according to Stowe, it remained uninterr'd, and then thrown into a waste room among lumber.* 1.17 The

[figure]

Page [unnumbered]

[figure] depiction of Ford Castle
FOORD CASTLE. South Aspect.

Page 19

standards taken on this victory were carried to the cathedral of Durham. The loss of the English was computed at fifteen hundred, in which number scarce a man of considerable note was included. The dispro∣portion of the slain was attributed to the English artillery and archers.

After passing this scene, where every reflection was filled with hor∣ror, it is not to be wondered that the beauties of Etal should be en∣hanced. We passed in view of

FORD CASTLE,* 1.18

the seat of Odonel de Ford in the time of King Edward I. from whom, by marriage, it came to the family of Herons.† 1.19 It was the possession of Sir William Heron in the reign of King Henry III. who was Governor of the castles of Bambrough, Pickering, and Scarbrough, Lord Warden of the Forests North of Trent and Sheriff of Northumberland for eleven successive years. In the year 1385 the Scotch, under the Earls of Fife, March, and Douglas, making an incursion by the western Marches, laid waste the country as far as Newcastle, and demolished the fortresses of Ford, Wark, and Cornhill. Previous to the battle of Flodden, James's troops assaulted and took Ford Castle. It was in this place the Scotch King found Elizabeth the wife of Sir William Heron (who was then a prisoner in Scotland) together with their daughter, a Lady of great

Page 20

beauty; with whose charms the King was so fascinated, as was before observed, that for several days he desisted from all military advances, even under the momentous circumstance of the Earl of Surry's hasty ap∣proach. It was suspected by some, according to Drummond, p. 74, that Surry being acquainted with the King's amorous constitution, con∣tinued the detention of the Lady of Ford and her daughter in their castle, in order to stay the advances of the Scotch troops, till he could by long marches come up with them.* 1.20

In 1549, the Scotch under the the command of D'Esse, a French General of great military skill, made an incursion with a considerable army, attended with four field pieces: they made an attack upon the castle of Ford, and laid the greatest part of it in ashes. One of the towers, defended by Thomas Car, made a gallant defence, and re∣mained unreduced.

This castle came to the family of Carr of Etal, by marriage with the heiress of the Herons; whose daughter and heiress married Edward Delaval, Esq the ancestor of the present proprietor, Sir John Hussey Delaval.† 1.22

Page 21

About a mile to the east, lays Barmoor, an ancient estate of the Mus∣champs. And at about an equal distance to the west,

PALINSBURN,

the seat of John Askew, Esq Improvements in husbandry and cultiva∣tion have become the prevailing passion of the age; and in this country the advances are rapid. I am informed * 1.23 that Mr Askew lately found some small earthen vessels or urns in his estate, of a singular form, be∣ing triangular; that they are of coarse pottery, and it is that gentle∣man's opinion, they are of Danish manufacture, and enclosed the heart of the deceased. On what this conjecture is founded, I profess my Ignorance. We read of the heart of one which was sent embalmed to the holy sepulchre, and the heart of John Bailey, who died at Newby Abbey, was embalmed by Dovergilla his wife, lodged in an ivory case, and deposited at the high altar. But I am uninformed of any custom among the Britons, Romans, Saxons, or Danes, in this coun∣try, of interring the heart separate.

ETAL

is a modern elegant structure, the seat of the late Sir William Carr, Bart. but its appearance is not improved by the avenue on the south: the opening of the village, which presents a prospect of the towers of the old castle of the family of Manners,† 1.24 is an elegance which is at once

Page 22

uncommon and highly pleasing. Etal was one of the dependent ma∣nors of the Barony of Wooler, and the castle was built by Sir Robert Manners, 15 King Edward III.* 1.25 The prospect over the vale by the river Till is beautiful, graced with plantations, formed in a good taste, upon the natural eminences: the distant scene is mountainous and au∣gust; Watchlaw, a beacon hill, towards the east; the hills of Branxton and Flodden to the south-west, and beyond them the torrs of Newton; Yevering Bell, Cheviots, Akeld, and Humbledon, afford the contem∣plative spectator noble subjects for animadversion.

Lord Wharton, in 1552, appointed Etal to be the residence of the Deputy Warden of the East Marches.

Near a square intrenchment called the Haly Chesters, is a stone cross, but of what event it is a memorial is not known.—In the road from Cornhill, we passed

TILMOUTH,† 1.26

the ancient manor of the family of Ridell, held of the Bishop of Dur∣ham, by half a Knight's fee, under the castle of Norham; it afterwards came to the Claverings, by marriage, and is now the possession of Sir Francis Blake.

At a little distance are the ruins of

HETON,‡ 1.27

an estate of the family of Greys,§ 1.28 who were Governors of Norham,

Page 23

Wark, and Roxburgh, now in the possession of Lord Tankerville. The castle was of a square figure, and very strong; on the west side it had an area or court, called the Lion's Court: it sustained a siege by the Scots, before the battle of Flodden Field: on the north side was a vault capable of receiving an hundred horses or other cattle.

On a fine peninsula formed by the confluence of the Till and Tweed, are the ruins of a small chapel, called St. Cuthbert's Chapel; near which lie the remains of a stone boat or coffin, ten feet long within, and three and a half wide, eighteen inches deep, and four inches and a half thick; it is of a singular form, and a strange traditional history is told of it, that St. Cuthbert's remains not resting at Norham, were carried to Mailross, where shewing the same signs of agitation and restlessness as had occasioned former removals, by a vision the attendants were ordered to pacify his impatient spirit, by constructing a boat of stone, in which the sacred relics floated down the Tweed 20 miles to Tilmouth.* 1.29 It is said that not long ago there was a design to convert this hallowed vessel to mean offices, a peasant having devised to pickle pork in it, or thereout to feed his hogs: to preserve it from such profanation, the spirits of darkness brake it in the night, leaving the fragments near the chapel.

We passed under

TWIZEL CASTLE,

built on a rocky eminence of uncommon appearance and singular form, said to be remarkably pleasant and agreeable within, the circular cor∣ners affording a great command of prospect. This is the seat of Sir Francis Blake, Baronet, F. R. S. The Lordship was anciently held of the Bishops of Durham, by an annual rent and suit at the seigniory court of Norham.† 1.30 From the 4th year of the reign of King Edward III. it has been possessed by several families, Ridells, Selbys, and others. In Le∣land's Itinerary, it is mentioned thus:

so to Twisle bridge of stone, one bow, but great and strong, where is a tounlet and a towre.

Page 24

At a little distance is Grindon, where the Scots were defeated by Sir Thomas Percy the 6th Earl of Northumberland, and Sir Henry Percy, in the 5th of Queen Mary, 1558: the place is distinguished by four stone pillars.

We arrived at

NORHAM,

a pleasant village, in a low situation, on the banks of Tweed. This is a place of great antiquity, by Hoveden called Ubbanford, said to be built by Egfrid Bishop of Lindisfarn in the year 830, and gives the name of Norhamshire to a large tract of country, a member of the county of Durham.

Durham is a county palatine; by some authors it is said, the power of the palatinate commenced soon after the Norman conquest; but as no royal grant is to be found in the public repositories of records, we may presume it is of greater antiquity. The manors of Norham and Holy Island, and also the manor of Bedlington, commonly called Bed∣lingtonshire, anciently have been, and still continue parcels of the body of the said county palatine, and the inhabitants resort to Durham for justice, in all matters of law and civil jurisdiction, as members of the palatinate. Anciently Norham, Island, and Bedlingtonshires had several courts and officers of justice within their respective limits, under the Commissions of the Bishop of Durham, who held Jura Regalia within his See, as Justices, Sheriffs, Escheators, Coroners, and other officers, equally with the chief body of the county palatine laying between Tyne and Teese, until by act of parliament, in the 27th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. many of these royal franchises and jurisdictions were resumed to the Crown.

The royal remains of Ceolwulf were removed from Lindisfarn and deposited at Norham. A part of the old church is standing, and by some modern repairs is made a decent place of worship. Towards the east of the present church, the foundations of some buildings have lately been opened, and therein discovered a stone with sculptures upon it, and part of an inscription, faithfully copied in the plate.

Page 25

[figure]

I confess myself at a loss to decipher it, but presume it doth not re∣late to any historic matter: the stone appears to have been cut for the stalk of a font, many of those in old churches being sculptured; as the font of Bride Kirk, in Cumberland, another at Rothbury, and others I have seen.

Mr Lamb, in his notes to the Poem of Flodden Field Fight, gives the following remarks, extracted from Symeon Dunelm. and Hoveden:

Egred of noble birth was consecrated Bishop of Holy Island A. D. 831; he dedicated the church of Norham to the Saints Peter, Cuthbert, and Ceolwulf, which he built, together with the town, and gave them both to the See of Holy Island: he gave to it also the town of Jed∣burgh,

Page 26

in Tiviotdale, with its appendages, and the church and town of Gainforth, and whatever belonged to it, from the river Teise to the river Wear: these two towns the Bishop built."* 1.31 "King Ceolwulf, to whom Bede dedicated his Ecclesiastical History, was a learned man; he was descended from Ida the first King of Northumberland. The former part of his reign was full of trouble; afterwards, in time of peace, many Northumbrian nobles and private men, with their King Ceolwulf, turned Monks: in the 10th year of his reign, A. D. 738, he quitted his crown for a cowl, and entered the monastery of Holy Island, to which place he carried his treasure, leaving his kingdom to Eadbert his uncle's son. He endowed the monastery with the towns of Braynshaw, Warkworth, and the church which he built there, and also four other villages, Wudecestre, Whittingham, Edlingham, and Eglingham, with their appendages. After a long life he was buried in that monastery, but the above-mentioned Bishop Egred took up his body, and deposited it in the church of Norham. His head was afterwards carried to the church at Durham.—The Monks of the cell of Norham, in the following age, called in the country to make their offerings at the shrine of their royal brother, who always per∣formed some mighty miracle on his feast-day,† 1.32 to the great astonish∣ment and edification of his numerous worshippers.

Page 27

Out of the foundations of this cell,* 1.33 which belonged to the church of Holy Island, I dug a stone, on which were cut the effigies of three patrons of Norham church, St. Peter with his keys, St Cuthbert, and St. Ceolwulf with a sceptre in his hand.

There were three chantries in this church, one of which was dedi∣cated to St. Cuthbert, the founder not known. One Thomas de Kellawe occurs Chaplain in the year 1362.

The second chantry was founded by Anthony Beck, Bishop of Dur∣ham, in the year 1288, and was dedicated to the blessed Virgin.

Page 28

The third chantry was founded by William de Twisill in the year 1344, and was dedicated to St. Nicholas.

Gospatrick made Earl of Northumberland by William the Conqueror ended his days at Ubbanford, and was buried in the porch of the church there.* 1.34

This church had the privilege of a sanctuary.

About half a mile from the church stands the castle,

[figure]
built by Ralph Flambert, Bishop of Durham, in the year 1121. Its situa∣tion is on the brink of a steep rock, whose foot is washed by the river Tweed.† 1.35 This castle did not remain long unassailed by the Scots: in 1138, King David I. of Scotland besieged Norham: the castle at that time is described to consist of a very strong tower surrounded with a wall. The Scotch forces having refused to proceed on the incursion they had entered upon, Lent being come, retreated from the eastern part of the county of Durham, where they had committed dreadful depre∣dations,

Page 29

and in their passage home undertook the siege of this castle, which was at that time thinly garrisoned, having only nine Knights of their corps. A gallant defence was made for some time, but no suc∣cours arriving, the place was surrendered, and the troops permitted to retire to Durham. David proposed to the Bishop to resign his castle, if he would renounce his allegiance to Stephen, in favour of the Em∣press Maude, which the Bishop refusing, he caused the town and castle of Norham to be destroyed.—Lyt. Hen. II. John of Hexham, Cont. Sym. Dunelm. Rich. of Hexham, Border History.

The castle and fortifications were restored by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, in the year 1174, at the instance of his kinsman King Ste∣phen: he then built the great tower, which remains to this day: but this Bishop in the succeeding reign purchased his peace with the King of England, after certain defections in favour of the Scotch, by deli∣vering up to him this castle. In 1176, we find the castle still in the hands of the Crown, William de Neville being Keeper or Governor, who was sworn upon the relics of Saints, that upon the event of the King's death, he would deliver it up to the Bishop, on receiving orders from Richard de Lucy, the Bishop of Winchester, or the Bishop of Ely; and if the Bishop should die, that the castle should be restored to St. Cuthbert's church at Durham, that the rights of that church might not be impaired. The castle of Berwick at the same time was governed by Geofrey de Neville, who was under the like oath in respect thereof.

In 1203, King John held a personal conference with William the Lion, King of Scotland, at this castle, touching the demand made by the Scotch King of the northern counties; but nothing was determined, and King John returned in great displeasure.

In the year 1209, King John came with a great army to Norham; the King of Scotland then assembling his troops at Roxburgh, a dread∣ful war seemed to be threatened, from King John's extravagant demands and vehement wrath against the Scotch; but by the intervention of the Nobility, the two Monarchs agreed to hold a conference for settling their disputes, at Newcastle; to which place the King of Scotland im∣mediately repaired, attended by his brother David and a large train of Nobles; but being taken suddenly ill, a truce was concluded on till his health was restored. The dispute remaining unsettled, each Monarch again prepared for war, but a second interposition of the Nobility occa∣sioned

Page 30

them to hold another conference at Norham, in the same year, when a treaty of peace was concluded between William King of Scot∣land and King John, in which John stipulated not to erect any fortress at Tweedmouth; William on the other hand depositing a large sum of money as restitution for the ravages he had committed on the English borders.

In the year 1211, the two Kings held another conference at the castle of Norham, at which Ermengard Queen of Scotland was present, and by her amiable conduct greatly promoted the treaty on which the So∣vereigns had met. Here the terms of the former peace were ratified, and several new articles agreed to.

In the year 1213, King John, in the utmost terror of an insurrection of his subjects and an invasion from France, in consequence of the pa∣pal interdict which had been pronounced, came again to Norham, earnest to secure the amity of Scotland. William the Scotch King then lay dangerously ill, and was not able to proceed further than Haddington on his engagement to meet the King of England. Highly chagrined at this disappointment, he returned southward, and it was not long before his sentence of deposition was pronounced, his kingdom given to the king of France, and a croisade published against his territories by the Emissaries of the See of Rome. Driven to dreadful dilemma's, John was at length obliged to make his peace with the Holy See; the interdict, which had continued six years, was revoked, and the lands of those who had adhered to the papal authority against their Sove∣reign, and had been pronounced forfeitures to the Crown, of which those of Eustace de Vesey were part, were restored. Soon after this event succeeded that glorious combination of the Barons, under which the great charter and charter of the forests were obtained from the re∣luctant hands of this miserable tyrant. To those patriots, whose names ought to be engraven on the hearts of every Briton, we owe every thing valuable upon earth, the liberty we possess, and our authentic right to the properties we enjoy. To men of the North, the memory of Eustace de Vesey, Richard de Percy, Robert de Ros, Peter de Bruis, Nicholas D'Es∣toutesille, William de Moubrai, and Oliver de Vaux, northern Barons in this combination, should be immortal.

By Hemingford, and under his authority by Knighton, it is alledged, that the violations and injuries the Barons had sustained, as well touch∣ing

Page 31

their liberties and properties as in their private and family con∣cerns, urged them to appear more readily in the promotion of this great work, the necessity for which had indeed long been experienced. The base tyrant was not content with public oppressions, but in his mean∣ness of vice, even descended to the violation of the wives and daughters of his Barons; to which purpose he practised the vilest artifices. He had by stratagem possessed himself of the signet of Eustace de Vesey, by means of which he attempted to delude his Lady, that he might vio∣late her chastity. Vesey by a happy discovery gained a knowledge of the King's intentions, and concerting measures with the Lady, had address enough to put a common prostitute into the arms of the tyrant, and preserve the honour of his family. Exulting in the success of his project, and amidst the fervour of a generous resentment, he reproached the King to his face with his baseness, reviled him for the possession of a strumpet, and defied his wrath.

But to return to the history of Norham.—William King of Scotland dying, was succeeded by his son Alexander II. a youth not more than 15 years of age. The Barons of Northumberland had recourse to him for protection, and thereupon paid their homage at Felton. This in∣censed King John so much, that he prepared for a northern expedition. In the Year 1215, King Alexander came before Norham with a mighty army, and after an investiture for 40 days, was obliged to raise the siege. This circumstance is thus mentioned in Leland's Collectanea, v. 1. p. 535.

Alexander King of Scottes, sun to King William, did entre ynto England, and did much despite to King John; he assegid the castel of Mitteford and Norham, and toke homages.

In 1258, King Henry III. had projected a scheme for surprizing Alexander III. King of Scotland, and rescuing him from the govern∣ment of those who had taken him from those ministers approved of by King Henry. The government of the castles of Norham and Wark was conferred on Robert de Neville, Lord of Raby, whose commission from King Henry was

to provide himself with horse and arms, to march with the forces designed to rescue Alexander from the restraint in which his rebellious subjects held him
* 1.36 But this project was ren∣dered abortive by the assembling of a great army of Scots in the forest

Page 32

of Jedburgh, and a treaty ensued. This Robert de Neville was the se∣cond Lord of Raby, of the name of Neville, being the grandson of Robert Fitz Maldred, Lord of Raby, who was the lineal male heir of Uchtred Earl of Northumberland.

A convention was appointed to be held at Norham, on the 10th day of May 1290, previous to King Edward the First's entering upon a de∣cision of the claims made by the several competitors for succession to the Crown of Scotland, on the death of Margaret of Norway, the in∣fant heiress. The assembly that day is said to be held in the parish church of Norham, when were present the King, and many Nobles and Prelates of both nations. The King declared, that the purpose of his coming was in quality of Superior and direct Lord of Scotland, to maintain the tranquillity of that kingdom, and to do impartial justice to those who laid claim to the Crown, but previous thereto he demanded their recognition of such his pretended sovereignty; and it is alledged, that his claim was historically deduced with great skill and artifice by Anthony Beck, then Bishop of Durham: after which three weeks were given for the Scotch Nobles to deliberate on the demand. On the 2d day of June then next, eight competitors, with several of the Prelates, Nobles, and Community of Scotland appeared, and held their council on this important matter,

Congregatis ex opposito castri de Norham, ex alia parte fluminis Tweedae in quadam arda viridi,
* 1.37 when all the competitors made the required recognition, and absolute submission of their several claims and pretended right to the Scottish Crown, to his decision.

On the same day the competitors, together with the whole company, came to the King in the church of Norham, and several subsequent meetings were held there for settling preliminaries: and the second day of the succeeding August was appointed for hearing all claimants at Berwick.

After judgment was given at Berwick in favour of John Baliol, on the 20th of November 1292, he swore fealty to King Edward in the castle of Norham, in the presence of many Nobles of both nations; and a commission was thence issued for enthroning him at Scone.

Page 33

In the following reign, in the year 1318, it was besieged by the Scots, Sir Thomas Grey being then Governor,* 1.38 by whose brave de∣fence, and the timely aid of the Lords Percy and Nevil, it was pre∣served from the hands of the enemy. In order to carry on the siege, the Scots raised two forts against the castle; one at the church of Nor∣ham, and the other at Upsitlington. On a succeeding siege in 1322, the Scots became masters of this fortress, but held it not long, for King Edward retook it after an assault of ten days, he having brought before it a very powerful army.

Page 34

In 1326, on the night of King Edward the Third's coronation, the Scots made an assault on the castle: Robert Manners then Governor had received previous intimation of the intended attempt, and permit∣ting 16 of the assailants to scale the outward wall, put them to the sword.

In 1327, soon after their march from Weardale, in the county of Durham, the Scots laid siege to Norham, and took it by storm. Three Knights of great military fame in the Scotch army fell in the attack, William de Montalt or Montraud,* 1.39 John de Clapham, and Mailis de Dobery. Another party made an unsuccessful attempt on the castle of Alnwick, near the same time. In 1355, a party of Scots under the command of Sir William Ramsay burnt and plundered the town of Norham and adjacent country.

In the 13th year of the reign of King Henry VII. the Scots led by King James in person besieged Norham Castle, which had been put into good repair by Fox, then Bishop of Durham, and was well garrisoned. The Bishop came in person to its succour, the besieged making a va∣liant defence. Many of the outworks were destroyed. Some authors assert the Scotch did not raise the siege till the Earl of Surry with an army of 20,000 men came to its support, and obliged the assailants to retire. In the 5th year of the reign of King Henry VIII. the castle was assaulted by the Scots, previous to the battle of Flodden Field,† 1.40 and part of the outworks were destroyed.

Page 35

In order to entertain a just idea of those conflicts on the borders, I will extract from the letters of the Commanders in the year 1544, a

Page 36

short state of their progress and proceedings in the Mers and Tiviot∣dale. The progress of the Berwick garrison was as far as Dunglass: the garrisons of Wark and Cornhill proceeded as far as the hills of Lammar Muir, and over the dry March of Tiviotdale. The chief Com∣manders were Sir George Bowes, Sir Brian Laiton, and Sir Ralph Eure. On the 17th of July, Bowes, Laiton, and others burnt Dunse, the chief town of the Mers; and John Carr's son, with the garrison of Cornhill Castle, entered Greenlaw, and carried off a booty of cattle, sheep, and horses. On the 19th of the same month, the men of Tyndale and Ridsdale, returning from a road into Tiviotdale, fought with the Laird of Ferniherst and his followers, and took him and his son John prisoners. On the 24th of July, the garrison of Wark, the Captain of Norham, and Henry Eure burnt Long Edmin, made many prisoners, and took a bastell-house strongly kept, and got a booty of 40 nolt and 30 horses, besides those on which their prisoners were mounted, each on a horse. On the 2d of August, the Captain of Norham burnt the town of Home, near to the castle gates, with the surrounding steads. Sept. 6th, Sir Ralph Eure burnt Eikford church and town, the barnekin of Ormeston, and won by assault the Moss Tower, burnt it, and slew 34 people within it: he likewise burnt several other places in that neigh∣bourhood, and carried off more than 500 nolt and 600 sheep, with 100

Page 37

horse load of spoils got in the tower. Sept. 27th, the men of the east and part of the middle March, won the church of Eccles by assault, and slew 80 men in the abbey and town, most part gentlemen of head sirnames; they also took 30 prisoners, and burnt the abbey and town. On the same day the garrison of Berwick brought out of the east end of the Mers 600 bolls of corn, and took prisoner Patrick Home, brother's son to the Laird of Aiton. November 5th, the men of the middle March burnt Lussedden, in which were 16 strong bastell houses, slew several of the owners, and burnt much corn. November 9th, Sir George Bowes and Sir Brian Laiton burnt Dryburgh, a market town, all ex∣cept the church, with much corn, and brought away 100 nolt, 60 nags, 100 sheep, and much other booty, spoilage, and insight gear.

The whole number of towns, towers, steads, barnekins, parish churches, and bastell houses seized, destroyed, and burnt, in all the border country, was 192, Scots slain 400, prisoners taken 816, nolt 10,386, sheep 12,492, nags and geldings 1296, gayts 200, bolls of corn 850, insight gear an indefinite quantity.

In Hertford's expedition, places burnt, rased, and cast down 129; among these Dunse, the abbey and town of Eccles, the tower and bar∣nekin of Nisbit, the towers of Dunse, Redbraes, Pollard, and Merting∣ton, with the castles of Wedderburn and Blackadder were rased. On the river Tweed, from Kelso upwards, 33 places were destroyed; among which were the abbey of Kelso, the abbey and town of Dryburgh, the abbey of Mailross, and the towers of Dawcove and Stotherick: on the river Tiviot 36; among which were the friars near Kelso, the towers of Roxburgh and Ormeston, and the two towers of Boon Jedburgh: 12 places on the Rowle Water: 13 on Jed; among which, the abbey, friars, and town of Jedburgh: 45 places on the Kayle, and between it and the Tweed: 19 on Bowbent (alias Bowmont). The sum total of the places destroyed or laid waste in the whole inroad was 287; of which, mo∣nasteries and friar houses 7, castle towers and piles 16, market towns 5, villages 243, mills 13, spitals and hospitals 3.

In the 22d year of the reign of King Henry VIII. Norham was sur∣prized by the Scotch, and soon after recovered by one Franklin, Arch∣deacon of Durham.

In the year 1551, a treaty was signed in the church of Norham: the Scotch Commissioners were Robert Bishop of Orkney, Robert Lord Max∣well,

Page 38

Thomas Master of Erskine, and Louis de St. Gelais, Lord of Lansac, Knt. those for England were Thomas Bishop of Norwich, Robert Bowes, Leonard Beckwith, and Thomas Chaloner, Knt.

In 1552, the castle of Norham, which from the time of Bishop Flam∣bert had appertained to the See of Durham, appears from Lord Whar∣ton's proposals for the better protection of the Marches, to be vested in the Crown. The deprivation of Cuthbert Tunstal happened on the 11th of October in this year, soon after the accession of Queen Mary, before which time we have no public record to shew how Norham might come into the power of the Crown. The infamous law for the dissolution of the bishopric, is the first act of any notoriety I have been able to discover which could effect the matter: and notwithstanding that law, it appears from several records that in the reign of Queen Mary the castle was repaired and again fortified by Bishop Tunstal; and that some very short time before his death, in the year 1559, he held a treaty there with the Scotch, when were present, Thomas Earl of Northumberland, William Lord Dacres of Gilsland, and Croft, Com∣mander of the fortress of Berwick, on the behalf of the English; and for Scotland, the Earls of Morton and Hume, with the Dean of Glasgow.

Camden describes Norham Castle in his time

to be situate on the top of a high steep rock, and fortified with a trench: the outward wall, of great circuit, was guarded by several turrets in a canton towards the river, in which another wall much stronger encircled the keep or tower of great height.
This description gives a perfect idea of its figure, after the repairs made by Bishop Tunstal. Towards the river the ruins now hang upon the very verge of the precipice, part of which, by the washing of the torrent, has given way, and carried with it the superstructure on that side; which with the decay incident to the length of time, has occasioned a wide breach in the outward wall spoken of by Camden: the turrets, as he is pleased to stile them, appear to be no other than demi-bastions, a mode of fortification peculiar to the age in which this erection arose; a perfect model of which, still in good preservation, appears at Hartlepool, in the county of Durham, of near the same date, being the palatinate port of the bishopric.

The wall of the castle of Norham, which extended from the water on the south side, was guarded with a gate-way and tower, having square turrets on each side, and thence ascending the steeps stretching

Page 39

eastward, was also defended by another gate-way of superior dimen∣sions, fortified by two heavy round flanking towers, the remains of which are still considerable. This appears to be the chief entrance, and fronts a plain of considerable extent: it was defended by a draw bridge over a very wide moat, which began here, and was extended round the land side of the castle, enclosing a spacious area or ballium, with a very strong wall garnished with demi-bastions at intervals. Within the area of this outward wall are the remains of a chapel and several other structures. To defend the keep or main tower, a very strong wall encloses a narrow area or interior ballium, which is entered by a gate∣way, guarded on each hand by square towers. The keep is a very large heavy square building, vaulted underneath, like most structures of this kind. Part of the vaults and some of the prisons remain entire, but all the interior parts of the tower above, are laid open and demo∣lished. The remains of an exploratory turret are seen on one corner of the keep: it may be presumed it was originally uniform, bearing a turret at each corner. The height of the great tower is about 70 feet, containing four stories or ranges of apartments. The whole build∣ing is constructed of red free-stone, of a soft nature, and subject to decay. There is not the least ornament about it, and the whole aspect is gloomy to the greatest degree: it wears the countenance of the times of King Stephen, without any embellishments of the age in which Bishop Tunstal lived.

This has been a very formidable fortress, inaccessible from the Tweed; and before the use of fire arms, from its present remains ap∣pears impregnable, if fully garrisoned, and duly provided with stores against a siege. When the outward walls were in repair, and filled with troops; when the oillets and other devices for the garrison's fighting and defence were properly supplied with experienced archers, and the bastions were kept by men of valour, it seems almost incredible that this place could ever be taken by assault. But when there was a re∣gular blockade, and time for mining and raising engines, the defence then consisting of different manoeuvres, would consequently harrass the most powerful garrison; frequent sallies becoming necessary, by which the troops are exposed to the superior numbers of besiegers: incessant watchings and severe duties wear down the greatest fortitude of soul, and scarcity of provision with perpetual anxiety subdue the most vigo∣rous heart. Such are the calamities of a siege, and such were many times experienced here: but of all the distresses the valiant know, none

Page 40

equals that which proceeds from a defection in his partizans, and the corruption of his colleagues. So prone is the human heart to evil, that we find in the history of every state and people, such horrid tales of treachery, that the stain upon the human character leaves so disagree∣able a sentiment upon the mind of the reader, as with its bitterness and gall almost overwhelms the pleasures we receive by the images of virtue. I forbear to search into this part of the history of Norham.* 1.41

The castle with its demesnes, consisting of 1030 acres, are now the property of Robert Fenwick of Lemington, Esq† 1.42 held by payment of a castle rent to Sir Thomas Haggerston, Lord of the Manor of Norham. Richard Barnes, Bishop of Durham, severed this demesne and castle from his See, by grant to Queen Elizabeth, by whom it was given to the Earl of Monmouth, and passed from him by sale.‡ 1.43

All the banks of the Tweed afford the same cultivated scenes, down to Berwick, almost naked of wood, and consisting of wide enclosures. On the environs of Berwick we first lost sight of the Helton Mountains adjoining to Mailross.

The village of

TWEEDMOUTH,

situate at the south end of Berwick bridge, is noted for the assembly of Barons and others, in the 4th year of the reign of King Edward I. An ancient hospital, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, stood here.

Page 41

The access to

BERWICK,

is by a fine stone bridge of 16 arches, built in the reign of Queen Eliza∣beth. A bridge of wood was carried away by the floods in the reign of King John, and was restored by William King of Scotland. In Le∣land's Collectanea, this event is thus mentioned:

The bridge of Ber∣wike brake aboute this tyme with great force of water, bycause the arches of it were to low, and after the making of it, as it was then, it durid scars IX yeres.
* 1.44
AD. 1198, hoc tempore ponte de Berwic inundatione asportata, Philippus episcopus prohibuit ne pontem re∣aedificarent nam altera pars ripae terra erat Dunelmensis episcopi.
† 1.45
Tandem tamen pons refectus rogante Gul. de Stoteville.
‡ 1.46

The old castle, of which little remains but scattered fragments, and confused heaps of foundations, stood to the north-west of the present town: much of its strength seems to have consisted in the elevation and mount on which it was erected. The present heaps and lines of ruins merit no description; their extent and situation remain to point out the ancient strength of this important fortress, now moulder∣ing under the wrath of Time, and prostrate with the earth.

Monsieur Jorvin wrote a description of England and Scotland, pub∣lished at Paris, A. D. 1672, which the editor of the Antiquarian Reper∣tory thought worth inserting in that work: the account given of Ber∣wick, and the adjoining country, contains several particulars which claim a place here.

Barrwick is the first town by which I re-entered England, and be∣ing a frontier to England, has been fortified in different manners: there is in it at present a large garrison, as in a place of importance to this kingdom. It is bounded by the river Tweed, which empties itself into the sea, and has a great reflux, capable of bringing up large vessels, was it not prevented by sands at the entrance into its port. I arrived here about ten of the clock on a Sunday; the gates

Page 42

were then shut during church time, but were opened at eleven, as is the custom in all fortified places. Here is an upper and a lower town, which are both on the side of a hill, that slopes towards the river. On its top there is a ruined and abandoned castle, although its situation makes it appear impregnable: it is environed on one side by the ditch of the town, on the other side by one of the same breadth, flanked by many round towers and thick walls, which enclose a large palace, in the middle of which rises a lofty keep or donjon, capable of a long resistance, and com∣manding all the environs of the town.

The high town encloses within its walls and ditches those of the lower, from which it is only separated by a ditch filled with water. In the upper town the streets are straight and handsome, but there are not many rich inhabitants, they rather preferring the lower town, in which there are many great palaces, similar to that which has been built near the great church, and in all the open areas are great fountains, and in one of them, the guard house and public parade, before the town hall or sessions house, over which is the clock tower of the town; so that by walking over Barwick, I discovered it to be one of the greatest and most beautiful towns in England.

The greatest part of the streets in the lower town, are either up or down hill, but they are filled with many rich Merchants, on account of the convenience and vicinity of its port, bordered by a large quay, along which the ships are ranged. There is not a stone bridge in all England, longer or better built than that of Barwick, which has 16 large and wonderfully well wrought arches; it is considered as one of the most remarkable curiosities of the kingdom. I passed over it in leaving the place, adjoining to it is a large suburb, from whence the country is covered with heath and briars to Ashton, where there is a castle; Bowk∣lin, where the sea appears on the left, and a small island not far off, which forms a pretty good harbour, near a village, having a castle. All this sea coast is covered with sand banks, and the interior country to Belford an entire desert, as it is far above 20 miles round about; being only fitted for feeding cattle, occasioned by divers rivulets, which run through meadow, where great herds of all sorts of cattle may be seen feeding.

The town of Berwick lays on the inclination of an easy slope, towards the river; most of the buildings are ancient, and make but a mean ap∣pearance;

Page 43

the streets are narrow, except that only in which the town house is placed. The fortifications are modern, and said to be excel∣lent, being constructed agreeable to the modes adopted since the use of cannon. In the year 1560, these new works were begun, by which the ancient fortification was greatly reduced; for this purpose many houses were taken down, and a tower which stood in a street called Hide hill: the ancient chief fortress or castle, which adjoined to the south-west corner of the old town wall, was left at the distance of se∣veral hundred yards from the modern works. Camden speaking of Ber∣wick, says it is "Munitissimum totius Brittaniae oppidum." The man∣ner of fortifying with bastions was a French device, begun in the time of Francis I. and Charles V. or at the soonest of Louis XII.—The Lord Grey of Wilton was the first that bore the title of Governor of Berwick in commission. There are excellent barracks for the garrison, the building plain and neat, consisting of a center and two wings. The public walk is on the rampier, where the gaity of the inhabitants is chiefly displayed, and to which the soldiery contribute greatly. The church is a neat plain structure, built in the time of Cromwell, and consequently without a steeple,* 1.47 he forming much of his religious man∣ners on affected simplicity and a mask of meekness.† 1.48 A Lectureship was founded here by the Mercers Company in London, who also founded another at Hexham. For the support of the Lecturers, they purchased tithes, according to the will of Richard Fishborn, Esq dated March 30, 1625, wherein he left them the sum of 2800l. The tower of the town house, which is a spacious handsome building, contains a good set of bells. The country north of Berwick is open and little cultivated, and within a few miles rises in lofty and barren hills. The town stands on

Page 44

a point of land exposed to the sea on the east and north-east, and to a strong channel of air from the west, which follows the course of the river, so that consequently the situation is very cold.

Berwick was for ages a scene of war and bloodshed; every step the tra∣veller takes upon its confines, or in its boundary, is imprinted on earth stained with human gore:* 1.49 happily those intestine miseries are swept

Page 45

away from the face of the land, and the strength of these walls is op∣posed only to the hostility of strangers. When this place first arose to

Page 46

importance, is not known: whether it was of any considerable strength during the conflicts between the Britons with their Roman allies, and

Page 47

the northern nations, is not easy to determine: Camden with other An∣tiquarians have not offered any thing but conjecture.* 1.77 Some authors alledge it was known to Ptolomy the Geographer, who wrote in the time of Antoninus, by the name of Tuesis; but the situation described by him, doth not correspond with that of the present town.

According to Hector Boethius, Berwick existed as a place of strength in the days of Osbert the Northumbrian King. It is reasonable to con∣jecture, when Tweed became the boundary between Scotland and Eng∣land, that Berwick would arise as a barrier town, be fortified, and have an armed garrison. In the account given of the Danish invasion under Hubba, about the year 867, Berwick is mentioned as the landing place of the invaders. Whilst the Saxons possessed the country north of Tweed, Berwick was not likely to have risen to any great impor∣tance, being so near the royal seat of Bamburgh, except it should have had a fortress, as a safeguard to the episcopal seat of Lindisfarn.

The same author relates, that King Donald having defeated the army of Osbert near the river Jedd, marched down the Tweed to Berwick, which the Saxons then had in possession, and which they abandoned on the news of their Sovereign's overthrow: Donald seized three Saxon vessels in the Bay, with great riches on board; upon which event he and his followers gave themselves up to riot and revelling: of this the

Page 48

Saxons took advantage, and made an unexpected assault on the town in the night, when many of the Scots were slain, and their King was taken prisoner. He also tells us, that King Gregory the Great took Ber∣wick, then possessed by the Danes, and put the garrison to the sword: after which the Scotch Monarch spent his winter there.

Berwick continued for many ages part of the dominions of Scotland, and was one of the four original Scotch burghs.* 1.78

Page 49

Edgar King of Scotland gave it to the See of Durham, according to Hollingshead, in honour of St. Cuthbert, under whose banner he had obtained

Page 50

an important victory. This donation was made about the year 1097. Ralph Flambert, after a vacancy in the See for three years,

Page 51

from the death of William de Caralepho, was consecrated Bishop in 1099; he disregarding the great gift of Edgar to the church, made an

Page 52

irruption into his territories; on which Edgar, provoked at his ingra∣titude, reassumed the town of Berwick, with its valuable appendages.

In the reign of King Henry II. William King of Scotland surrendered Berwick to the Crown of England, as a pledge for the payment of his ransom: and it is said that King Henry built a castle there,* 2.7 after Wil∣liam's failure in his stipulated payment. But in the time of King Richard I. the ransom money being paid, which was no less than 100,000l. Berwick was restored to the Scotch.

King John, in resentment of the homage paid by the Barons of Nor∣thumberland to Alexander King of Scotland, laid waste the whole county, and took Berwick by storm.† 2.8 King John is charged with committing the most savage barbarities on this occasion, having, as it is said in the Chronicle of Mailross, Jews with him, on purpose to devise tortures.

Page 53

In order to extort from the inhabitants a discovery of their money and effects, he caused to be hung up men and women by the joints of their hands and feet, and inflicted on them various other bodily pains. His troops burnt the town of Berwick, the King disgracing royalty, by setting fire, with his own hands, to the house in which he had lodged: he also permitted the adjoining monastery of Coldingham to be plun∣dered.

Alexander King of Scotland, still remaining under sentence of ex∣communication, for his adherence to Louis, who had been invited to accept the Crown of England by King John's dissident Barons, after peace was made with King Henry III. and on Alexander's acceding thereto, the Pope's Legate gave authority to the Archbishop of York and Bishop of Durham to give him absolution; for which purpose they met the King at Berwick. This event happened in the year 1217.

In the year 1235, Gilbert Earl of Pembroke, Earl Marshal of England, on his marriage with Marjory, sister of Alexander II. King of Scotland, came to Berwick to receive his bride, and celebrate his nuptials.

In the year 1266, Edmond the younger son of King Henry III. after being invested with the dukedom of Lancaster, and the forfeited ho∣nours and estates of the Earl of Leicester, paid a visit to the King and Queen of Scotland at Berwick, where the King with a numerous assem∣bly of his Nobles celebrated the royal birth-day.

The great assembly of the states of England and Scotland was held here, on the 2d day of August 1291, for determining the claims of the several competitors for the Crown of Scotland, in pursuance of the ad∣journment from Norham, in the preceding June. King Edward I. re∣ceived the Prelates and Nobles of both kingdoms in the chapel of the castle: after which the Bishops, Prelates, Earls, Barons, Knights, and people of both nations, were convened in the castle of Berwick, and the Delegates were commanded to assemble for receiving the claims, in the deserted church of the Dominicans, adjacent to the castle. An adjourn∣ment was made to the same place in the month of June in the follow∣ing year, where the King again appeared in person, and difficulties still remaining unsolved, a further adjournment was made to the ensuing October, at which time his Majesty, attended as before, again came to Berwick. Several intermediate days being given for solving the inci∣dent

Page 54

questions which arose on the claims, the 17th day of November, A. D. 1292, was appointed for giving judgment, in the hall of the castle, when John Baliol was pronounced successor to the Crown. The seal used by those who had governed Scotland during the interregnum, was broken in four parts, and delivered up to King Edward to be de∣posited in his treasury, as a monument and evidence of the sovereignty and direct dominion of that Monarch over Scotland.

In Leland's Collectanea it is noted, that in the year 1295,

John King of Scottes, contrary to his feith and aliegeaunce, rebellid agayne King Edward, and cam into England, and brent and slew. Wher∣apon King Edward with a great host went to Newcastelle apon Tyne, and passid the water of Twede and besiegid Berwick, and gat it: and also he gat the castelle of Dunbar, and ther were slayne XXV M and VII C Scottes. And so proceeded forth, and gat the castelle of Rokesburgh, and the castelles of Shremborough, Stryvelin, and Ged∣worth, and his people foured all the lande.
* 2.9 After these several operations the King returned to Berwick, where he resided some time, to direct several new works for the better fortification of the place; among which was a ditch over the neck of land from Tweed to the sea, in breadth 80 feet, and 40 feet in depth.† 2.10

The accounts given of these successes of King Edward are various, and authors differ much in regard to the slaughter which attended them. The King being encamped near the nunnery, offered terms of peace, which after being demurred upon for two days, were rejected by the garrison. On the next day, being Thursday after Easter, A. D. 1296, the English army was drawn up, on an extensive plain, near the nunnery, at the eastern foot of Hallydown Hill, in full view of Berwick Castle and the high parts of the town. There the King conferred the honour of Knighthood on Henry Percy and others, as was usual in those

Page 55

times, on the like occasions. The navy perceiving the display of ban∣ners from the mouth of the Tweed, where the fleet then lay, and pre∣suming the attack was beginning, anxious to win part of the laurels of the day, pushed over the bar, and gained the haven; by which three ships were lost, having stranded, where they were burnt by the towns∣men: the rest were scarce able to escape in the ebb tide. King Edward desirous to save his fleet, ordered an immediate attack, whilst the chief part of the garrison was employed in defending the town nearest the haven. He is charged by Fordun and other Scottish writers with using a delusive artifice, in detaching a body of men, under the cover of some rising grounds, to gain an approach on another quarter, and by dis∣playing Scotch colours, induce the garrison to permit their advanc∣ing near the fortifications, under a presumption that they were a rein∣forcement for the town. The English authors take no notice of this stratagem. It appears from the best authorities, that the fortifications of this place, at that time, consisted chiefly of a ditch, and a rampier of earth with a barricado of timber: through these the English army made their entrance with very little difficulty, and the garrison and in∣habitants, astonished at the suddenness of the event, and overwhelmed by superior force, were slaughtered without much resistance. The chief opposition that was made, was by 30 Flandrian Merchants, who held out a strong tower, called the Red Hall, till the evening, when fire be∣ing set to it, the building was consumed, and all within perished. In the reduction of this tower, the brother of the Earl of Cornwall, a va∣liant Knight, was slain by a spear's piercing his eye, as he looked up to those who fought above. All the gentlemen and fighting men of Fife are said to have been put to the sword. The castle, commanded by William Douglas, surrendered the same day, and its garrison, consisting of 200 men, were permitted to march out armed, on swearing from thenceforth not to fight against the King or kingdom of England; but their Governor was detained a prisoner. Fordun says the number of slain was 7500; that the streets ran with blood two days, and in such quantities as to make mills go. Boetheus says also the slain were about 7000 in number, and says that mills were actually set a-going with the blood. Matthew Westminster says, that all were slain, without distinc∣tion of sex or age, in number 60,000. In the instructions from the Regency and Council of Scotland, to their Procurators at Rome, A. D. 1301, it is said, that after taking Berwick, the King and his army com∣mitted the most barbarous cruelties on the inhabitants, who to the num∣ber of almost 8000 were slain, without distinction of character, sex, or

Page 56

age. The churches afforded no protection to those who fled thither; after being defiled with the blood of the slain, and spoiled of all their ornaments, the King and his followers made stables of them for the horses of the army.* 2.11 This carnage may be ascribed to a resentment of the cruelties committed the preceding year by the men of Berwick and the fighting men of Fife, in attacking certain English vessels that had entered the port, setting fire to the ships, and putting the several crews to death.

On the 24th day of August, A. D. 1296, the King received the ho∣mage † 2.12 of the Scotch Nobility here, in the presence of an English Par∣liament, summoned for that purpose. In the year succeeding, he estab∣lished an Exchequer here, on the principles of that at Westminster, for the receipt of the Scotch revenue.

In the year 1297, the English inhabitants being struck with a panic on the approach of Sir William Wallace with his forces, evacuated the place,‡ 2.13 and fled with their moveables to the southern parts of Northum∣berland.

Page 57

Cressingham,* 2.15 whom King Edward had made his Treasurer, from his avarice, neglected putting the King's commands in execution, for building a stone wall along the side of the new foss, and applied the King's treasures to his own appropriations; so that Berwick was appa∣rently in so defenceless a state, as not to be esteemed tenable by the garrison against Wallace's troops.

Cressingham was slain at the battle of Sterling Bridge, and was flead by the soldiers, who divided his skin among them as a trophy.

The castle of Berwick was so strong and well maintained, that the Scots were not able to reduce it: the Regency levied a great force, the army consisting of 2000 armed horse, 1200 light horse, and 100,000 foot; on the approach of this formidable armament, the Scots deserted the town, and the faithful garrison in the castle, who had sustained a long blockade, were happily relieved.† 2.16

Page 58

The alarm occasioned by Wallace's insurrection, and the invasion with which England was then threatened, brought forth excellent fruits, which still bless this kingdom, and are the felicity of the present age; the ratification of the great charter and charter of the forests, with a most inestimable addition, a grant and concession that no tallage or aid should thenceforth be imposed on the people, without the assent of the Prelates, No∣bles, Knights, Burgesses, and other Freemen.

King Edward, in the year 1303, mustered that victorious army here, with which he penetrated the remotest parts of Scotland, and compleated its conquest.

In the year 1305, Wallace having been betrayed into the hands of his enemies, suffered an ignominious execution, and half of his body was ordered to be exposed on Berwick Bridge. In the succeeding year, Neal Bruce, brother of Robert Bruce, was taken in the castle of Kil∣drummy, with many other persons of great distinction, who were sent prisoners to Berwick, where King Edward ordered them to be tried by Justices sent thither, by whom they were condemned, and sentenced to be hanged, drawn, and quartered. The Countess of Buchan, sister to the Earl of Fife, eloped from John Comyn her husband, and carried in her retinue all his war-horses, with which she repaired to Robert Bruce, at Scone, and in the absence of the Earl her brother, who was then with the King of England, and whose hereditary office it was to place the crown on the heads of the Scotch Monarchs, she assumed that high duty, and put the diadem on the head of Bruce. King Edward sen∣teaced her to be shut up in a wooden cage, in one of the towers of Ber∣wick Castle.* 2.17 From the order set forth by Rymer, it appears, that the Chamberlain of Scotland, or his Lieutenant at Berwick, was to cause this cage to be made of sufficient strength; in which she was to be at∣tended and served by one or two English women of the town of Berwick, and no Scotch man or woman, or any other person, except the servant or servants appointed her, were to be suffered to have access to her. Ano∣ther author † 2.18 says, that the King declared as she did not strike with the sword, she should not die by it; but ordered her to be shut up in an ha∣bitation of wood and iron, shaped like a crown, and to be hung out at Berwick, in the open air, for a spectacle and everlasting reproach, both

Page 59

living and dead, to all that passed. Mary a sister of Bruce, was ordered to be shut up in like manner at the castle of Roxburgh. The Countess of Buchan lived in this confinement six years, when by the royal mandate she was released from her cage, and given in charge to Henry de Beaumont.

In the year 1307, the stores ordered by the King of England to be delivered by the citizens of London at Berwick, for the use of the forces against the Scots, were 20 barrels of honey, 100 barrels of wine, 12,000 lb. weight of iron, 500 lb. of hemp-cord for balistae, 500lb. of hemp, 100 balistae of one foot, 40 of two feet, 20 balistae de turno, 30,000 arrows for balistae of one foot, 12,000 arrows for those of two feet, 2200 feathered arrows of copper for balistae de turno.* 2.19 The mea∣sure by which these balistae are here distinguished, relates to the arrows these engines were to throw; as the accepted phrase in regard to can∣non, is so many pounders, as the weight of the shot may be they are bored for.

In the year 1310, King Edward II. his Queen, and Nobles, spent their winter at Berwick; the King returning thither from his Scotch expedition. The dearth was so great in Scotland this year, that the people fed on horse-flesh and other carrion.† 2.20 During the King's resi∣dence here, he confirmed the election of Richard de Kellow to the See of Durham, on the death of Anthony de Beck.

In 1312, Robert Bruce attempted to surprize Berwick, by a scalade in the night; but after ladders of ropes were fixed, the place was saved by the barking of a dog, which alarmed the garrison, and the assailants were repulsed with considerable loss.

In the year 1314, King Edward II. rendezvoused his army at Ber∣wick, consisting of 40,000 horse (three thousand of which were com∣pleatly armed, horses and men) and 52,000 foot: they were in part lodged within the town, and the rest in tents without the walls. The carriages attending this army were numerous, as no supplies could be drawn from a country desolated by war, and wasted by famine. Malms∣bury says, if they had passed in one line, they would have extended sixty leagues in length. Most authors agree, that so fine an army had

Page 60

not in the memory of man marched from England. The army of the Scots consisted of 30,000, advantageously posted, and waiting the ap∣proach of the English, on the banks of Bannocks Burn. I seem to be led involuntarily to a relation of this battle; famous, for the establish∣ment of Robert Bruce on the throne of Scotland, in its event.

Sterling Castle had sustained a long siege and blockade, and the Go∣vernor was at length obliged to accede to certain articles, under which, if this fortress was not relieved before an appointed day, it was to be surrendered to Bruce: King Edward determined to march to its relief, and with all possible expedition moved his army from Berwick. Robert Bruce, informed of the intention of the English Monarch, resolved to abide the event of a battle, rather than raise the siege. He had viewed the ground, and fixed upon a part near the castle, where he should have only just sufficient room to marshal his troops with advantage, accord∣ing to their arms. This place was defended on the one hand by in∣accessible rocks, and on the other by a morass, having the water of Bannokburn in front. King Edward being informed the country near Sterling was full of morasses, and difficult to be passed, so that his horse could not be of the service he wished, he levied a reinforcement of foot, 4000 from Yorkshire, 2500 from Northumberland, 1500 from Durham, and 2000 from Derby and Nottingham. In the advance the army was divided into ten columns, 10,000 men in each, commanded by leaders of the most distinguished character; the Earls of Gloucester and Hereford led the van, the center was led by the King in person, Sir Giles D'Argentein and Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, Generals un∣der him. The army under these divisions, is said to have covered a large tract of country, and was a sight august and solemn; the whole scene made resplendent, by burnished arms and displayed ensigns.

As the English approached, Bruce led his troops to occupy the chosen ground, on the Saturday before the battle. To strengthen the station, he caused pits to be dug in front, armed with pointed stakes within, covered with hurdles or flakes, and concealed by turfs and rushes. On the morning of Sunday, being Midsummer Eve, Bruce with his Lords and Chieftains attended solemn devotions and mass in the front of the army; and the Priests went through the ranks, exhorting each soldier

to exert his powers for the relief of his country, and rather die a martyr in the virtuous cause, than see the English again become ty∣rannical task-masters, as they had been in the time of King Edward I.

Page 61

of detested memory.
Such arguments and exhortations served to inflame the Scotch army with enthusiastic ardour. The English were ordered to advance so near Bruce's station; on Sunday evening, that though harrassed with a tedious march, they were obliged to lay under arms all night, for fear of a surprize. This evening was not without several skirmishes and re-encounters, in which the English were worsted: in one of these Robert Bruce engaged and slew Sir Henry Boynton; cleav∣ing his head with a battle ax. A party of 300 horse, under the com∣mand of Lord Robert Clifford and Henry Beaumont, attempting to gain the castle, were engaged by a chosen band of Spearmen, led by Earl Murray, and put to the rout: Sir William Dayncourt was slain, and Thomas Gray made prisoner;* 2.21 the Earl of Gloucester was unhorsed, but rescued.† 2.22

The disposition of the Scotch army on the day of battle was in four divisions: Sir Thomas Randolph commanded the van, Edward Bruce the right wing, and Sir James Douglas the left; Robert Bruce was with the body of reserve or rear. The Scotch were all on foot, that by ma∣king the danger and distress of the engagement equal, the ardour of each might by example be exhilerated. The soldiers of the body of re∣serve, were covered with light coats of mail, which a sword could not penetrate: they carried an ax in the belt, and lances in their hands. Malmsbury describes the Scotch army moving, "as thick as a hedge." The leaders were men of that skill and valour, that they possessed the confidence of the troops. In the English army, the foot, consisting of spearmen and archers, were in the van, the horse were on each flank; and in these positions the armies engaged.

The onset was vigorous and well maintained on both sides. The Earl of Gloucester commanded that part of the line which was attacked by Sir James Douglas's corps, consisting of 7000 Borderers and 3000 Irish Scots or Katerans, vulgarly called Redshanks, a fierce and valiant race. The English, unable to sustain the shock, began to give way, when the Earl, impatient of disgrace and inflamed with ire, accompanied by a chosen band, rushed into the thickest of the foes, where he was beaten from his horse and slain. The covered pits deterred or frustrated his Knights from effecting his rescue. Malmsbury says, with great warmth,

Page 62

(confundat eos Dominos) they were 500 in number, and in the emer∣gency 20 might have effected his relief. Sir Giles D'Argentein, a man much esteemed by Robert Bruce, and of great military fame, one of the Commanders of the Gens d' Armes who guarded the King, advanced to Gloucester's relief, but died in the attempt. Robert de Clifford, Payen de Tiptoft, William Marescal, Edmund Mayley, and several other eminent leaders were equally unfortunate in those parts of the army where they commanded, and were soon numbered with the slain. The English archers, who had so often carried victory with them in former conflicts, were attacked in flank, and put to the rout, by a troop of light cavalry close armed, who were remounted for this critical service, and led by Sir Robert Keith, Marshal of Scotland. The confusion among the archers, and the fall of such eminent leaders, struck the English army with a panic, which was not a little increased by the sight of a large body of men advancing over the summit of a distant eminence, who were no other than the attendants on the carriages and baggage, drawn up in martial array, and displaying pieces of linen on the ends of spears, which at that distance appeared like a crowd of banners. Confusion and uproar soon took place, and the English Monarch was advised to secure his retreat, as Victory was declaring on every hand for Bruce, and the English forces, wearied and fainting, were giving way. The King with great reluctance and shame consented to move the royal standard, the sight of which compleated what the valour of the Scotch phalanx had so gloriously begun: the rout became general, and mul∣titudes fell as well under the sword in the pursuit, as in the waters of Bannockburn and Forth. The effusion of blood was greatly spared, by the avarice of plunder, the rich baggage of the English army affording immense booty to the victors. Of the Scots, only two leaders of note fell, William Vipont and Walter Ross. Seven hundred English Gentle∣men were missing after the battle, the greatest part of whom were among the prisoners. Sterling surrendered to the King of Scotland, who ordered the fortifications to be destroyed to their foundations. Redpath, in his Border History, says,

The rout of the English was indeed very entire; but neither the number they brought to the field, nor the loss they sustained, appear to have been nigh so great as the Scottish writers represent them.

King Robert Bruce treated the prisoners with great humanity, and buried the dead with all due decorum. The bodies of the Earl of Glou∣cester and Lord Robert Clifford, he sent to the King at Berwick, to be in∣terred

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with the honours due to their rank and military fame. On ac∣count of a personal friendship which had formerly subsisted between them, he liberated without ransom his prisoner Lord Ralph de Moun∣thermer, husband to the Countess of Gloucester, the King of England's sister.

King Edward with a body of horse fled towards Berwick, pursued by Sir James Douglas with a party of light cavalry, who effected no∣thing but taking up a few stragglers, who fell off from the King's troop. He first took shelter in the castle of Dunbar, from whence he was con∣veyed by sea to Bambrough or Berwick. It is certain he was at Berwick the third day after this defeat, as he issued a proclamation from thence, to advise his subjects of the loss of his privy seal; which was restored to him by Mounthermer, on his return.

After this victory, various bands of Scots ravaged Northumberland.

In the year 1315, the Scots attempted to take Berwick by surprize, by means of their shipping, with which they entered the river under false colours; but being discovered by the garrison before they began an attack, suffered considerable loss e'er they could effect an escape.

In the following year, the dearth was so great in Northumberland, that the people were obliged to eat the flesh of horses and dogs. A quarter of wheat sold for 40 shillings.

Berwick had continued in the possession of the English for 20 years, when the Commander in the town being corrupted, betrayed it to the Earl of Murray, in the year 1318, who led a body of Robert Bruce's forces.* 2.23

Barber, the Historian of Bruce, says, that one Spalding, incensed against the Governor's cruelty towards the Scotch inhabitants, had de∣termined to betray the town into the hands of Bruce's party; and ac∣cordingly

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having intimated his design, and assigned the time and place for the enterprize, when it was his turn to mount guard at the Cow∣gate, Randolph and Douglas, with a chosen band, repaired to Dunse Park, and under cover of the night, advanced to a part of the wall which was left unguarded, and by ladders entered the town, unper∣ceived by any but Spalding. They lay concealed till day-light, when other forces coming up, upon the assault, were aided by those within, and gained the place by noon. Many of the garrison and townsmen retired into the castle, from whence they made a sally, presuming the Scotch forces were weak, from the thin display of banners; but they were repulsed with some loss. The news of regaining Berwick was soon spread over the adjacent country, and numbers of Scotch crowded thither, to maintain the place and assist in the siege of the castle, which stood out six days,* 2.24 and then capitulated on terms, for the garrison to march out with their arms, and depart for England. The Scotch King Robert Bruce soon after arrived, and with his Court resided some time in the castle. He made his son-in-law, Walter, Steward of Scotland, Governor, who, ambitious of possessing a settlement on the borders, where he might display his youthful courage, called out 500 Gentlemen his dependents, with others of inferior rank, skilful in shooting with bows and working engines, for the more effectual defence of the place. Sir John Crab, a Fleming, of high reputation in his art, was made chief Engineer.

King Edward, in the succeeding year, prepared to recover Berwick, and on the first of September approached with a large body of troops, having with him Lancaster, Pembroke, Arundell, Hertford, Warren, and the Earl Marshal the King's brother, Hugh D'Espencer, Roger de Tam∣mori, and Hugh Deudeley, parceners to the earldom of Gloucester, by marriage of the coheiresses, the late Earl's sisters. This force was ac∣companied by a fleet from the cinque ports, laden with provisions and all kind of stores. The English fortified their camp, and then pro∣ceeded to an assault. The walls of the town are described to be so low, that an assailant might strike the people that defended them, with a spear. On the seventh of September they attempted an escalade, at dif∣ferent parts in the same time, and a ship was directed to approach with an engine, to attempt the walls on the side next the haven; but all

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these were fruitless, the ship was left on ground by ebb of tide, and burnt by the garrison. In the next general assault, which was made on the 13th of September, the English employed a great machine called a Sow, constructed for holding and defending men, who were moved in it towards the foot of the wall, in order to undermine and sap its foundation. Devices were used to burn this machine, but by throwing a stone of vast weight from an engine, the Sow was split, and her oc∣cupiers dislodged. On an attack of Marygate, the draw bridge was burnt, and the gate in great danger; but forces from the castle coming to its defence, the assailants were obliged to retire. These efforts har∣rassed and weakened the garrison considerably, and the town must on another assault, have fallen into the hands of the English, if Lancaster had not withdrawn his forces from the camp, exercising his malignant spirit at this critical time against the King, whom he hated most inve∣terately. The Earl of Murray and Lord Douglas had entered England with 10,000 chosen men, and penetrated almost to the city of York, the Queen escaping with difficulty. These circumstances determined Edward to raise the siege of Berwick.

King Robert Bruce perceiving the importance of this place, strength∣ened the walls, and raised them considerably in height, giving also many new towers and additional bulwarks to the whole.

In the year 1323, King Robert Bruce at this place ratified the treaty of peace entered into with King Edward III. by his plenipotentiaries at Bishop Thorpe near York.

In 1328, Joan the sister of King Edward III. being contracted to David the son and heir of King Robert Bruce, was conveyed to Berwick with a splendid retinue, where she was received by the Earl of Murray and Lord Douglas, representatives of the King, he being sick; and the nuptials were celebrated with great magnificence. She was called Make Peace, and carried with her the ragman roll, and all records which had been seized by King Edward I. to be again deposited in the Scotch archives.

At this ceremony, a magnificent parade was made by the nobles of each nation, and a sumptuous pageant crowded the place, with all that solemn pomp, which in the days of chivalry decked out public specta∣cles: Sumptured horses, and men braced in shining arms, forming long

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trains of steel effigies, stiffened in coats of mail, and strapped like inani∣mate beings to the saddle, were the chief objects: Lord Mortimers' retinue alone, consisted of nine score Knights, properly caparisoned, with their Esquires, Gentlemen, and Yeomen.

The expedition of Lord Henry Beaumont and his associates into Scot∣land, in the year 1332, being attended with remarkable success, be∣came an object of serious attention with the English Monarch; in so much that Edward Baliol, supported by this party in his pretensions to the Crown of Scotland, as successor of his father John Baliol, having gained the castle of Roxburgh, King Edward received his letters patent issued from thence, in which he acknowledged the King of England supreme Lord of Scotland, and ceded to him the town, castle, and coun∣ty of Berwick, to be annexed to his kingdom, with many other advan∣tageous cessions and terms of amity and alliance, of such weight and consideration, that the King summoned his parliament to meet at York, to deliberate thereon. As many of the states, especially the Prelates were absent, nothing was determined: in general, it was thought expe∣dient to treat with the guardian and nobles of King David's party; for which purpose commissioners were instructed to require homage and fealty from the Scotch King, and a cession of Berwick; but these requi∣sitions were rejected with the utmost disdain. Baliol during this time had a perilous escape from Annan, and was obliged to take refuge in England, his party being thrown into the utmost confusion. King Edward was too far advanced in the cause to recede, and therefore ac∣cepted the terms proposed by Baliol at Roxburgh, and ratified them on his part.* 2.25

The English did not recover Berwick, till the 7th year of the reign of King Edward III. after the battle of Halydoun Hill, where the slaugh∣ter of the Scottish forces was terrible, 7 Earls, 900 Knights, 400 Esquires, and 32,000 common men died in the field; a carnage dread∣ful to recount, and from the very idea of which the soul recoils with horror.

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King Edward the Third, on being refused the homage of David Bruce, and restitution of Berwick, ordered his Herald to proclaim his defiance of the Scotch King. The English army began to besiege Berwick on the 12th of April, 1333. The Scots knowing the reduction of this place would be one of the first and chief enterprizes of their adversa∣ries, to the utmost of their power put it in a state of defence, to resist the great shock they presumed it would necessarily sustain: they filled it with a garrison of chosen veterans, and made Sir William Keith gover∣nor of the town, and Patrick Earl of Dunbar the keeper of the chief fortress or citadel. The King soon arrived, and remained in person before the walls about a month, when perceiving from the strength of the garrison, and the vigorous defence they made, that it would not be easy to reduce the place, he marched part of his army into Scot∣land, carrying the horrid ravages of war as far as Scone, Dundee, and Dumbarton. The most savage cruelties mark those times; the wild American never devised more shocking barbarities than stained these borders; each nation was ingenious in torture, in modes of devastation, and in the prosecution of revenge. Having glutted their avarice of blood, and being loaded with pillage, they again returned to Berwick, which King Edward still found unsubdued. After receiving reinforce∣ments, he declared his determination was either to be master of Ber∣wick, or effect something of consequence, by bringing his adversaries to battle. The siege was changed into a strict blockade: the besieged distressed by the cutting off supplies, made many sallies, with various fortune; they made a vigorous attack upon the fleet, and most of the navy then before Berwick was burnt. The garrison still entertained hopes of relief, and refused to capitulate, presuming this key to the kingdom, was of too great consequence to the Scotch, at that time to be neglected, and suffered to fall into the hands of the enemy. Lord Douglas had levied a powerful army, with which he marched to the neighbourhood of Berwick; but to the great distress of the garrison, who believed their day of deliverance was at hand, instead of attacking the English, Douglas crossed the Tweed, and in sight of the town, marched along the coast towards the castle of Bambrough, which being esteemed impregnable, was chosen by the King of England, as a secure residence for his Queen. The Scotch wasted several days in blocking up that fortress, and ravaging the adjacent parts, hoping that King Edward's sollicitude for his Queen, would induce him to raise the siege of Berwick.

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The device which had been practised with effect in the year 1318, did not now take place; King Edward was not to be moved from his determined purpose; the garrison reduced to extremities for want of provisions, and dispirited by the apparent neglect of Douglas, proposed a treaty, which King Edward readily attended to, and the capitulation was concluded on the 15th day of July, under the following condi∣tions: That the town and castle should be surrendered to King Edward on the 20th, if not relieved with 200 men at arms, or by a battle; that in the interval, there should be a cessation of arms; that in case of a surrender, the lives and properties of the garrison and inhabitants should be protected, with liberty to such as were so inclined to leave the place; and that the Governor should have safe conduct granted him to the Scotch army, to communicate the articles. Sir William Keith re∣paired to the Scotch camp without delay, and there prevailed that an attempt should be made to relieve the place: a measure totally disap∣proved by some of the oldest and most experienced of the Scotch leaders.

In this interval, a transaction is said to have taken place, which sullies the lustre of Edward's military character, and stamps an odium on his memory; it stands recorded to the following effect, by Bucha∣nan, Boece, and other Scotch authors of great credit.

Hostages were given by the Scots, for performance of their part of the treaty, one of whom was the eldest son of Sir Alexander Seeton, who was Deputy Governor, and took command on Keith's resorting to the camp. King Edward had also in his camp Seeton's younger son, taken a prisoner at the assault made on the navy. The King apprehending that by the approach of the Scotch army, he might probably be de∣prived of the capture of Berwick, an object of so great importance, soon after the departure of Keith, contrary to the faith of Princes, the sacredness of treaties, the common policy of nations, and all private honour, demanded an immediate surrender of the place; threatening if Seeton refused, that he would immediately hang up his two sons, the hostage and the prisoner, before the walls. Seeton remonstrated, but Edward regardless of all the charges made against him for the violation of public faith, caused a gibbet to be erected in full view of the town, to put in execution his infamous threat. Seeton struggling between honour and parental feelings, between duty to his country and love

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for his children, suffered all the pangs arising from a conflict, in which every sentiment was on the rack: Nature would have prevailed, and Seeton's children been saved by a sacrifice of his country's honour and his own, had not the mother, with all the virtue and heroism of a Roman matron, and the greatness of the most exalted mind, argued forcibly to support his principle, and sustain his fainting soul; and when yet he seemed to relax, she withdrew him from the horrid spec∣tacle, that he might retain his rectitude, though his sons were the in∣estimable price by which it was maintained. Edward unrelenting, put them to death, and Seeton kept the town.

This transaction is denied by the English Historians, who affirm that the Scotch army came in fight before the truce was expired; and there∣fore Edward could have no pretence for demanding a surrender.* 2.26 This argument is futile, and seems weak in opposition to the uniformity of the Scotch Historians.

On the 18th of July, Lord Douglas led his army over the Tweed, and encamped at a place called Bothull or Bothville: the English possessed Halydown Hill, a very considerable eminence on the west of Berwick, having an easy declivity towards the river; the other sides were steeper. The Scotch disregarding this apparent advantage, determined to engage on the Scotch side of the hill, not only to secure a retreat, but in case of victory, to take advantage of the flow of tide, which would render the Tweed impassable to the English if they should be routed.

The Scotch army was disposed in four grand divisions; John Murray commanded the first, with Lord Andrew Frazer and his sons Simon and James; the second was commanded by Robert Lord High Steward of

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Scotland, with the principal men of his kindred and the Earl of Monteith; the third by the Earls of Ross, Sutherland, and Strathern; and the fourth by Lord Archibald Douglas, Guardian of the kingdom of Scotland, and Commander in Chief, accompanied by the Earls of Lenox and Carrick. The whole army amounted to 68,000. The number of King Edward's army is not positively mentioned by any author. It is supposed the number of the Scotch was not so great as Historians have asserted, and that they were nearly equal to their adversaries. King Edward also disposed his army in four divisions, each of which was flanked by choice and skilful archers.

When both sides were ready to engage, the onset was a while sus∣pended, by the appearance of a Scotchman of gigantic stature, who had gained the name of Turnbull, on account of a gallant exploit, by which King Robert Bruce was saved from the attacks of a wild bull, which had unhorsed him, as he was hunting. Turnbull, attended by a great mastiff,* 2.27 approached the English army, and gave a challenge for single combat. After a short pause, which the singularity of the cir∣cumstance occasioned, the challenge was accepted by Sir Robert Benhale, a young Norfolk Knight, much inferior in stature to the Scotch cham∣pion, but of great strength and adroitness in military atchievements. The mastiff immediately flew forward, and was received by the Knight with a stroke upon the loins with his sword, which severed his body. The Scotch champion advanced: Benhale, with great agility and skill, eluded the heavy blows aimed at him, and first cut off the left arm of his adversary, and at last struck off his head.† 2.28

The Scotch army began to ascend the hill about the hour of vespers, with great impetuosity; their leaders, chieftains, and men at arms dis∣mounted, the more to animate the troops by rendering the danger equal. They were soon out of breath, in consequence of ascending the steep. The English archers were advantageously placed, in different stations on the hill, so as to pour down such showers of arrows on the close bodies of the Scotch troops, as made a terrible slaughter: they were also greatly annoyed by the rolling down of large stones from the emi∣nence, and were soon thrown into confusion.‡ 2.29 The English comman∣ders

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instantly availing themselves of the enemy's disorder, ordered an attack to be made by the spearmen and men at arms, by which they were pressed whilst breathless and dispirited, so that multitudes fell. The Scotch often retreated, and again rallied and bravely returned to the fight, fiercely maintaining the battle till their General was pierced by a spear: his fall struck the army with a panic, and a total rout ensued. The carnage was dreadful. The servants charged with the care of the horses fled, and left their masters to the destroying sword of a victorious enemy, who were not accustomed to mercy. Edward, at the head of a chosen brigade of cavalry, and archers on horseback, at∣tended by Lord D' Arcy with his Irish troops, led on the pursuit, and directed the slaughter. The country for the distance of five miles, was strewed with carcasses of those who were cut down by their pursuers.* 2.30 Among the persons of distinction in the Scotch army, there fell the General, the Earls of Ross, Sutherland, Carrick, Athol, Lenox, and Mon∣teith; three Stewards, uncles of Robert the Lord High Steward, three Frazers, Sir John Graham, Sir Duncan Campbell, and Sir William Tudway.† 2.31 Among the prisoners were Sir William Keith, Sir William Douglas, Sir Robert Kirkpatrick, Sir William Campbell, Sir Gilbert Wiseman, Sir Alexan∣der Graham, and Sir Oliver Sinclair. Boece charges King Edward with an unmanly piece of barbarity, the putting these prisoners to death.

The loss of the English is not related with certainty by any Historian. Rymer records a note sent by King Edward, to direct a public thanks∣giving after this victory, in which it is said,

that the battle was gained without much loss on his (the King's) side.
This expression implies a loss more considerable than what some authors have set forth, viz. one Knight, one Esquire, and 13 foot soldiers.‡ 2.32

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On the day after the battle, the castle and town of Berwick was sur∣rendered, the King faithfully observing the articles of capitulation. A public thanksgiving was ordered through his dominions, and he made a donation of 20l. per annum to the Cistercian Nuns, near whose con∣vent the battle was fought, with full reparation of all damages done to the conventual church and other buildings; as the author of the Border History says,

thus affecting, like most other conquerors, to draw Heaven to his party; and to regard the success accompanying the most unjust enterprizes, as a proof of the peculiar favour of the Deity.

King Edward determining to retain Berwick, appointed Lord Henry Percy Governor of the castle, and gave a commission to him and the Earl of March, to act as joint Wardens of all the country on this side the Scottish sea, where the terms of peace were received. He required 12 hostages for Berwick, to be chosen out of the chief inhabitants; eight of whom he placed at Newcastle, and four at York.

Edward Baliol did homage to King Edward at Newcastle upon Tyne, in June 1334, his parliament having ratified the treaty of Roxburgh, whereby the castle, town, and county of Berwick, with their appen∣dages, were to be annexed to the Crown of England for ever.

In the year 1339, Lord John Mowbray was Governor of Berwick: he had in garrison 120 men at arms, 100 halberdiers, and 200 archers.

In 1340, King Edward III. was at Berwick with an army of 40,000 foot and 6000 horse.

In 1341, King Edward kept the festival of Easter here, and held a tournament, in which 12 Knights of Scotland entered the lists with 12 of the King's train. This spectacle was exhibited with great magnifi∣cence and solemn pomp; but from the animosity which subsisted be∣tween the people of the two nations, this exhibition was attended with so much ire and inveteracy, and such bitter rivalship, that two Scotch Knights were slain, and Sir John Twiford, an English Knight.

On the 12th of November, A. D. 1354, a treaty was held at Berwick for the ransom of David Bruce, King of Scotland, taken prisoner at the battle of Durham, on the 26th of October 1346; and on the 3d of

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October 1357, all the articles of treaty for his deliverance were con∣certed there; and the payments of the ransom-money were ordered to be made at Berwick, Norham, or Bambrough. On failure of per∣formance of the former articles, another treaty succeeded, with a truce for 14 years; under which 56,000 marks were to be paid, by yearly in∣stalments of 4000 marks each.* 2.33

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In the 29th year of the reign of King Edward III. he then being on one of his French expeditions, the Scots surprized the town, but the castle sustained their assault from the 29th of November to the month of January following, when King Edward having returned, and received the intelligence at the instant of his landing from Calais, he tarried in

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London only three days before he set forward for Berwick; before which place he came on the 14th day of January with a large army, attended by a great naval power, with which he laid siege to the town both by sea and land. The King entered the castle, which still held out for him, and meditated a sally at the time his troops began the

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assault on other quarters: Sir Walter Manny, with miners brought from the forest of Dean, was employed at the same time, in advancing a mine below the wall. These vigorous measures induced the garrison to surrender the town. Some of the Scotch Historians say, the garrison on the approach of King Edward's army evacuated the place, having

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first plundered it and beat down the walls. The King added greatly to the fortifications, and strengthened the fortress with several new works. The surprize of Berwick by the Scotch, is spoken of with some incredible circumstances: Steward Earl of Angus, with Earl March, having collected a powerful navy, from different parts of Scotland, in which they embarked a chosen band of soldiers, entered Tweed in a dark night, and landed the forces under the walls unperceived: by break of day, with scaling ladders, they mounted the wall at Cowgate, and overpowered the guard; after which they soon made themselves masters of the whole town. It seems probable there was some treachery in favour of the Scotch assailants.* 7.1

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Berwick Castle afterwards had many changes of possessors. In the year 1377, seven intrepid and valiant Scots made themselves masters of it in the night, killed the Governor, Sir Robert Boynton, and gave li∣berty to his Lady under a ransom of 2000 marks. But these heroes did not long possess their honourable acquisition, for the Earls of Nor∣thumberland and Nottingham, and the Lords Lucy, Neville, and Stafford, with several other English Nobles, soon after invested the place, took the fortress by storm, and put the Scots to the sword, who were in∣creased to the number of 48: but this was not effected till the small garrison had held out eight days against 7000 English archers and 3000 horse, and during the assault lost only two of their number. The Nor∣thumbrians soon after ravaged the territories of Lord March, in revenge for his destroying the town of Roxburgh. The above-mentioned sur∣prize was effected in the night before the feast of St. Andrew. The leader, some authors say, was the valiant Sir John Gordon, but the English Historians alledge it was Alexander Ramsey. When the Earl of Northumberland summoned them to surrender, they answered with in∣solence,

that they would not yield it either to the King of England or Scotland, but would retain and defend it for the King of France.

In 1384, the Scotch gained Berwick, by corrupting the Deputy Go∣vernor. The Duke of Lancaster, then in enmity with Henry Percy Earl of Northumberland, possessing the King's ear, improved this circum∣stance greatly to the Earl's disadvantage, and he was in consequence attainted of high treason, as having been guilty of treachery; and con∣sequently his possessions were forfeited. The Earl thinking his imme∣diate presence before Berwick was of the first consequence, with a nu∣merous army besieged the town; but bloodshed was spared by the se∣cret application of 2000 marks, which regained the place. This event operated so powerfully as to gain the King's pardon, and restitution to the Earl of his possessions and honours.* 7.2

A conspiracy and insurrection were formed in the year 1405, against King Henry IV, in which the Earl of Northumberland, the Arch∣bishop of York, Thomas Mowbray, son of the then Duke of Norfolk He∣reditary Earl Marshl, Lord Bardolph, and others, were the leaders.

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The Earl of Northumberland could not brook the indignities his Sove∣reign had heaped upon him; for beside the grief he sustained in the loss of his son who fell at the battle of Shrewsbury, and the execution of his brother, he had the mortification to see the King's third son John, as∣sume the office of High Constable, which the King had conferred on the Earl for life, with the Wardenship of the East Marches; he also was deprived of the office of Warden of the West Marches, in favour of the Earl of Westmoreland. The King demanded the resig∣nation of the castles of Berwick and Jedburgh, and in contempt of the general act of grace for the remission of all offences, passed after the battle of Shrewsbury, sent out commissioners to compound with the Earl's adherents, and grant them separate charters. The Archbishop, and Earl Marshal were apprehended, before the Earl of Northumber∣land could join them with his forces, and suffered execution at York. The Earl of Northumberland held the castle of Berwick. On the King's arrival at Pontefract, he ordered a confiscation of all the Earl's estates, and commanded the Sheriff of Yorkshire, to summon the whole military power of his county, to rendezvous at Newcastle. The force with which the King proceeded on this expedition, was no less than 37,000 men, with engines and artillery for a siege. This powerful ar∣mament alarming the Earl, with his grandson, the son of Henry Hot∣spur, and Bardolph, he retired privily from Berwick, and took refuge in Scotland. Sir William Greystock was left to command the fortress. King Henry on his march summoned the castle of Warkworth to sur∣render, but it was not yielded to him, till after a siege of eight days, when the garrison capitulated on the honourable terms of departing with their horses and accoutrements. He made the like summons to the garrison of the castle of Alnwick, to which he received for answer,* 7.3 "That wynne Berwick, ones, he should have his entent." The army advanced to Berwick, and made the usual preparations for a regular siege, whilst the Governor on his part pursued the necessary manoeuvres, for a vigorous defence, in hopes of receiving succour from Scotland, which had been promised him by the Earl on his departure. The royal army had some pieces of ordnance, engines of destruction which had never before appeared against the fortifications of Berwick; and which Speed, by the authority of Walsingham, says, were on this occasion, for the first time, employed in Britain. A shot of an enormous size,

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discharged from a cannon of large bore,* 7.4 shattered one of the principal towers, which threw the garrison into such consternation, that they im∣mediately surrendered. The Governor, Sir Henry Bolton, and Blenkinsop suffered instant decapitation; and the remaining part of the garrison were committed close prisoners.† 7.5 On the royal army's returning, Alnwick Castle was surrendered by Henry Percy of Athol and William Clifford, who had the command, on the same terms of capitulation as had been granted to the garrison of Warkworth.

On the demise of King Henry V. in France, and the accession of his infant son, the Scots, in the year 1422, invaded England. The Go∣vernor of Scotland with one army invested Berwick, whilst Earl Douglas with another laid siege to Roxburgh; but neither of these attempts were attended with success.

In Leland's Collectanea ‡ 7.6 are the following notes:

Edward Erle of March, because King Henry had broken convenauntes, was made King at Westminster Anno D. 1459.

And strayte King Edwarde rode northward, and at Towton, not far from York, on Palmes Sunday advengid his fathers deth, and wan the feld, where were slayn xxM people on both parties. The Erle of Northumberland, the Lord Clifford, Syr John Nevil, the Erle of West merlandes brother, and Andrew Trollop were killid at this tyme.

King Henry, the Prince, the Queen, the Duke of Somerset, Henry Duke of Excestre, the Lord Roos, Syr John Fortescue Chief Judge of England, and Tailbois Erle of Kyme, being at York, and hering of this, fled first to Newcastelle, and then to Berwike, delyvering it to the Scottes.

Upon a rupture with Scotland in the year 1480, the English in the winter laid siege to Berwick, by sea and land, with a great force. Part

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of the fortifications were then new, the same having been constructed by King James III. of Scotland, after the surrender above mentioned, who had expended a large sum in strengthening and rebuilding the walls of the town, repairing the castle, and furnishing it with a compleat arrangement of artillery. The assailants flattered themselves, from the newness of the works, they should be able to beat them down without much difficulty, and easily win the place; but although considerable breaches were effected, the garrison made so brave a defence, that after spending a great part of the winter in carrying on the siege, the English were obliged to raise it, and retire with disgrace.

King Edward IV. in the year 1482, about the beginning of July marshalled his army at Alnwick, amounting to 22,000 men, the van of which was led by Henry Earl of Northumberland. So great a force appearing unexpectedly on the banks of Tweed opposite to Berwick, the town made no resistance, and was immediately seized by the Eng∣lish. Lord Hales, who commanded the castle, having answered that he was determined not to surrender it, 4000 men under the command of Lord Stanley, Sir John Elrington, and Sir William Parr, were left to be∣siege it, whilst the main army marched into Scotland.* 7.7 The great con∣fusion which shortly after took place in the Scottish state, it is said, was Lord Hales's sole motive for surrendering the castle on the 24th day of the succeeding August, he having no hope of succours. On the suc∣ceeding truce Berwick was given up to England, and the Scots engaged never again to attempt by any art the reduction of it. Since which time it has constantly remained in the possession of the Crown of England.

In the reigns of King Richard III. and King James III. of Scotland, Commissioners were appointed by the two Crowns, to set the limits of Berwick; on which occasion the disputed ground was agreed to re∣main uncultivated, unbuilt, and uninhabited.

In the treaty and convention entered into by King Henry VII. and James IV. King of Scotland, A. D. 1502, it was stipulated, that the town and castle of Berwick, with their ancient bounds and the inhabi∣tants thereof, should for ever remain and be included in the present perpetual peace, friendship, league, and confederacy: so that neither the King of Scotland, his heirs and successors, nor any of them, should

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by themselves, or any of their subjects, lieges, or vassals, make or suffer to be made war, insult, ambush, or siege, publicly or privately, against the places themselves or their inhabitants; nor the King of England, his heirs, successors, or any of them, should by themselves or the in∣habitants of the town and castle, make any war insult or siege on the King of Scotland or his vassals.

In the month of January, A. D. 1502, James IV. King of Scotland, espoused Margaret eldest daughter of King Henry VII. In Leland's Collectanea is a record, stiled

The Fyancelles of Margaret eldest daughter of King Henry VII. to James King of Scotland: Together with her departure from England, journey into Scotland, her recep∣tion and marriaged there, and the great feasts held on that account. Written by John Younge, Somerset Herald, who attended the Prin∣cess on her journey.
As the ceremonies attending her journey through Northumberland give us a striking representation of the mag∣nificence of those times, they are worthy attention.

The XXIIIIth day of the said monneth (June) the Qwene departed from Durham, accompanyd by hyr noble company, as she had beene in the dayes past, in fayr manere and good ordre, for to com to the towne of New Castell. Thre mylle fore thens came to her the Prior of Tynemouth, well apoynted, and in hys company xxx horsys. Hys folks in hys liveray. And ther was in lyk wys Syr Rawff Harbotelle Knyght, richly apoynted, well mounted, and hys folks in his liveray to the nombre of XL horsys.

At the intrynge of the said towne of New Castell, the Queene apoynted hyr, and intred in noble astat. Ich Lord and others tuke newe horsys rychly apoynted, in special th' Erle of Northumberland, as in the manere of the entrynge of York, and hys folks in lyke wys.

Upon the bryge cam in processyon rychly revested the College of the said towne, and with them the Freres Carmelets and Jacobius with the croseys, the wich war gyffen to the sayd Qwene to kysse, as before, by the Archbyschop.

After them was the Mayr of the said towne, acompayned of the Scheryffes and Aldermen, well apoynted, on foot. The wich re∣ceyved the said Qwene honorably: and after the receyvynge the said Mayr monted on horseback, beryng his masse before hyr.

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At the bryge end, apon the gatt, war many children, revsted of surpeliz, syngyng mellodiously hympnes, and playing on instruments of many sortes.

Within the said towne, by ordre, the bourges and habitants war honnestly apoynted. The streytts were hanged, and the wyndow loupps, topps, and schipps was so full of people, gentylmen and gen∣tylwomen, in so great nombre, that it was a playsur for to se. But they maid non sound of artyllery and ordinance.

In such statt and fayr aray, was the said Qwene brought and conveyd to the Freres Austyns, wher she was lodged, and honestly receyved by thos revested with the crosse, in the manere as it is re∣hersed befor. And when she was brought to hyr lodgyng every men drew hym to hys awn.

The next day after, being the XXVth day of the said monneth, Saunt Jamys day, she abode all the day in the said town, and was at the church masse very nobly acompayned.

That fam day, at even, th' Erle of Northumbrelaund made to many Lords, Knights, and others, a goodeley baunket, which lasted to mydnyght, for cause of the games, daunces, sports, and songs, with force of ypocras, succres, and other metts of many delicyouses maners.

To the said New Castell cam the Lord Dacre of the North, acom∣payned of many gentylmen, honestly apoynted, and hys folks arayd in his liveray.

The XXVIth day of the said monneth the said Queene departed from the said place, after the custome precedent, varey richly and in fayr aray. And the sayd Mayr conveyd hyr out of the said towne, and after tuke lyve of her.

Haff a mylle owt of the said towne was Syr Humfrey Lysle and the Prior of Bryngburn, well apoynted and well horst, to the nombre of XX horsys. Their folks arayd of their liveray. And a mylle from the said towne was in ordre the Scheryffe of Northumberlaund, Syr Rawff Evers, in company of many other gentylmen, varey well ap∣poynted, their folks clothed in their liveray, well monted. And with

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them wer many honests folks of the countre, with spers and bowes, in jackets, to the nombre of two hondreth horsys.

With the sam fayr company, was the said Qwene conveyd to Mor∣path, and by the towne passed in fayr ordre, wher ther was much people; and so she went to the abbay, where sche was well receyved by the Abbot and Religyous revested, at the gatt of the church, with the crosse. And after the receyvyng she was conveyd to her lodgyngs in the said place for that sam nyght.

The xxvijth day of the said monneth, the Qwene departed from Morpath, after the custom before, to goo to Alnewyk, a place of th' Erle of Northumbelaund. And in half of the way cam before hyr, Maister Henry Gray, Esquier, well appointed. In hys company many other gentilmen, and hys folks well monted and arayd in his liveray, to the nombre of a hundreth horsys.

Two mylle from the sayd place, the said Erle cam and mett hyr, well acompanyed, and brought hyr thorough hys park, where she kylde a buk with her bow. After which she was conveyde to the said castell, where sche and hyr company was welcomed by the said Lorde, the wich maid hyr varey good chere.

The next day, the xxviiith day of the said monneth, she was all the holl day in the said castell, and by the Lord well cheryst and hyr company.

The xxixth day of the sayd monneth the said Qwene departed from Alnewyk, for to go for Barrwyk, and at half of the way, named Belleford, she bayted. For Syr Thomas Darcy, Capittayne of the said Barrwicke, had maid rady hyr dynner at the said place very well and honnestly.

For that the said Maister Henry Grays abouffe named is Sheryffe of Ellaund Shyre and Northumberland Shyre, he bore his rod before the said Qwene, sens the entrynge of the said Lordships to Barrwyk.

Betwyx Alnewyk and Barrwyk cam to the Qwene Maister Rawff Wodryngton, having in hys company many gentlemen well appoynt∣ed. His folks arayd in liveray, well horsed, to the nomber of an hundreth horsys.

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At the comyng ny to Barrwyk was shot ordonnounce, the wiche was fayr for to here. And ny to the sayd place, the Qwene drest hyr. And ichon in fair aray, went the on after the other in fayr ordre.

At the entrynge of the bryge was the said capitaine well apoynted, and in hys company hys gentylmen and men of armes who receyved the said Qwene into the said place.

At the tother end of the bryge toward the gatt, was the Maister Marshall compayned of hys company, ichon bearing a staffe in his haund.

After hym was the college revested with the crosse, the wiche was gyffen hyr for to kysse by th' Archbischop as before.

At the gatt of the said towne was the Maister Porter, with the gard and soyars of the said place, in a row well apoynted. Ichon of those had an hallebarde or other staffe in his haund, as the others. And apon the said gatt war the mynstraylls of the sayd Capitayn, playnge of their instruments.

In the midds of the said town was the Maistre Chamberlayn, and the Mayre, acompayned of the bourges and habitaunts of the said place, in fayre ordre, and well apoynted.

In such fayr ordre and company she was conveyd and brought to the castell, wher she was receyved by the Lady D'Arcy honnestly accompayned.

The XXX and XXXIth days of the said monneth, the Qwene tarried at Barrwyk, where she had great chere of the said Cappitayne of Barr∣wyk, and hyr company in likewys. That sam day was by the said Capyiteyne, to the pleasur of the said Qwene, gyffen corses of chasse within the said town, with other sports of bayrs and of doggs togeder.

The first day of August the Qwene departed from Barwick for to go to Lamberton kerke in varrey fair company, and well appoynted.

First, of the said Archbyschops and Bischops, the Erles of Surrey and of Northumberlaund, the Lord Dacres, the Lord Scroop and his

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son, the Lord Gray, the Lord Latemer, the Lord Chamberlain, Maister Polle, and other Nobles and Knyghts. The young gentylmen wer well apoynted at their devises, and ther was fou much of cloth of gold, as of other ryche rayments. Their horsys frysks in harnays of the selfe: and upon thos orfavery, sum others had campaynes gylt, the others campaynes of Sylver. Gambads at plasur, that it was fayr thyng for to se.

The sayd Erle of Northumberlaund was varey well mounted, hys horse rychly appoynted, his harnays of gold in brodeux, hymselfe in a jakette betten of gold, well wrought in goldsmith werke, and bro∣dery, and in a cloke of porple borded of cloth of gold. His Hensmen appoynted as before mentioned. Incontinently before hym rode the Maister of his Horse, conveying the sam thre Hensmen arayed in jaketts all of orfavery and brodery, and ther harnays of their horsys in such wys of orfavery and brodery, full of small bells that maid a grett noyse. After thos cam a gentylman ledyng in his haund a corser, covered to the grownde of a vary rych trapure betten of gold of orfavery and brodery in oraunge. And ichon of the sam a gren¦tre in the manere of a pyne, and maid the said Lord pannades, and they weigited varey honestly.

After cam the said Qwene varey rychly arayde and enorned with gold and precyous stones, setting in hyr lytere rychly apoynted. Her foteman alwayes ny to hyr well apoynted, and monted upon fayr pallefrys, and their harnays ryche in appareyll.

After cam hyr char rychly apoynted, fournysched of ladyes and gentylwomen well apoynted, and after that, sum other gentylwomen on horsebak honorably apoynted.

The sayd Cappitayne of Barrwyk, and my lady hys wyffe acom∣payned of many gentylmen and gentylwomen rychly arayd, and clothed of a liveray, went with the sayd Qwene to Edinburghe.

Before the said Qwene war by ordre Johannes and hys company, and Henry Glascebery and hys company, the trompetts, officers of armes, and sergeants of masse, so that at the departing out of the said Barrwyk and at hyr Bedward at Lambertonkerke it was a joy for to see and here.

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In such stat and aray the said Qwene cam out of Barrwyk, ichon by ordre, the Lordes and Nobles three and thre togeder, to the said Lambertonkerke, and the company behind well apoynted and in fair aray, that it was estimed that ther war of the parte of the said Qwene xviii C or two M horsys well apoynted.

On the 10th day of October A. D. 1525, a treaty was concluded at Berwick, between the Commissioners of King Henry VIII. and King James V. for a three-years peace; and in the year 1528, the truce was renewed, and the peace continued for five years.

In the year 1547, King Henry VIII. being dead, leaving his son Edward VI. an infant of ten years of age, the Earl of Hertford, then created Duke of Somerset, in the month of August, advanced to Ber∣wick with an army of 18,000 men, attended by a fleet of 34 ships of war, 30 transports and a galley, on an expedition to Scotland.* 7.8 The army lay encamped without the walls of the town.

In the year 1550, great repairs were made in the fortress of Berwick, the expence of which, with the repairs of Calais, are alledged in the King's Journals as the reason for debasing the coin; from thence it also appears, some of the walls had fallen, the foundations having been shaken by working a bulwark. Also in the year 1552, it appears con∣siderable improvements had been made to the fortifications, in which, by the minutes of Secretary Cecil,† 7.9 6000l. had been expended. The fort then erected was contrived to have four bulwarks, for erecting which the wall was to have been left open, on the enemy's side, for a considerable space; but as this was dangerous and expensive, it was resolved the wall should be strengthened by an additional wall, and two slaughter-houses, to scour the outer cu••••ains, and a great ditch intervening, that an other wall fortified in the same manner should be erected within the former. Sir Nicholas Sturley appears to have been nominated Captain of this new fort, Alexander Brett, Porter, and one Rokesby, Marshal. No vestiges of these works now appearing, it is to be presumed they were rased, when Queen Elizabeth put the fortifica∣tions upon a regular and modern plan.

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In the reigns of King Edward VI. and Queen Mary of Scotland, Berwick by treaty was made a county town, and as Rymer's Faedra notes it, "a free town independant of both states."

In the year 1558, Lord Wharton in his reports to the Lord President of the North, says, the ordinary officers of the town appointed by let∣ters patent, were, a Captain, a Marshal, a Treasurer, a Chamberlain, a Porter, and a Master of the Ordnance: These with the Mayor for the year, were counsellors for the town, each having a yearly salary, and pay for attendants.

In the year 1566, Queen Mary of Scotland came into the neighbour∣hood to view Berwick; she was met at the extreme of the liberties by the Deputy Governor and his train, who conducted her first to Hallidon Hill, and thence to the west of the town, where she had a perfect view of the place, and was saluted by a general discharge of the ordnance.

In 1588, King James VI. of Scotland did the like, and received the same salute.

Queen Elizabeth having fortified Berwick, made the following mili∣tary establishment there, in the year 1576, as appears by the archieves of the borough.

The garrison consisted of eight companies of musqueteers, two of them containing 100, and the rest 65 men each; the pay of the private men 8d. per day, Captains of larger companies 4s. of lesser companies 2s. 80 horsemen under command of eight constables: the horsemen had 4d. per day added to their former pay of 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The gunners were augmented, on account of the great additional num∣ber of large ordnance, from 28 to 60, with a Master Gunner, a Mate, and four Quarter Masters: the whole establishment for the artillery amounting to about 860l.

  £ s. d.
The Lord Governor his Salary 133 6 8
A Chaplain 13 6 8
A Secretary 13 6 8
40 Household Servants at 6 13 4 each
Especial money per annum 40 0 0
And a reward in consideration of his Barony      

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The Marshal, his Salary 33 6 8
An under Marshal 16 0 0
20 Horsemen each 6 13 4
Two Tipstaffs each 5 6 8
An increase of pay given by her Majesty 66 13 4
The Treasurer, his Salary 20 0 0
Two Clerks each 13 6 8
20 Horsemen each 6 13 4
An increase of pay 80 0 0
Gentleman Porter, his Salary 20 0 0
Six Horsemen each 6 13 4
14 Footmen each 5 6 8
An increase of pay 50 0 0
Chamberlain, his Salary 20 0 0
12 Soldiers, 4 at 6 13 4
Eight each 6 0 0
Master of the Ordnance per day 0 5 0
One Clerk per day 0 1 0
Two Servants 0 0 6
Two Labourers 0 0 6

Lord Hunsdon was Governor of Berwick at the time of this establish∣ment; his council was composed of Sir Robert Constable, Knight, High Marshal; Robert Bowes, Esq Treasurer; John Selbie, Esq Chief Porter; Sir Francis Russel, Knight, Chamberlain; and Thomas Sutton, Esq Mas∣ter of the Ordnance. The Mayor had an appointment of 10l. per ann. the Customer 10l. and the Comptroller of the Customs 5l.

The Master of the Ordnance had under his charge more than 20 ar∣tificers employed for service of the garrison: among these was one Bowyer, one Fletcheur or arrow-maker, and one Master Wheeler.

The whole number of men on this establishment, was 980, and their pay amounted to the yearly sum of 12734l. 19s. 2d.

In the year 1603, on the demise of Queen Elizabeth, King James VI. of Scotland, was proclaimed March 26th, at this place, King of Eng∣land, France, and Ireland, by the name of King James I. In the archieves of Berwick, is kept a copy of the letter wrote by the Mayor,

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Aldermen, and Commons, dated on the above day, informing the King,

they had, with present expedition, and with what solemnity the leisure of time would afford, published and proclaimed his sacred Majesty King of England, France, and Ireland; and entreats him to pardon such defects as by ignorance, omission, or otherwise, by the straitness of time, had happened in the performance thereof.
To which the King returned the following answer.

To our trusty friends, the Mayor and Aldermen of the town of Berwick.

Trusty friends, wee greet you heartily well. We render you thanks for your so dutyfull affection, utterit in assisting and concur∣ring sae willingly with your Governour, in putting the town of Ber∣wick in our hands, which we have appointit to be governed in the same form and manner as heretofore, while we advise otherwise to dispose upon the same; assuring you always to find us a gratious and loving Prince, wha sal be careful to maintaine your wonted liberties and privileges, and to see that the same be nae ways braugillit, nor otherwaies prejudget. Sua we commit you to God. From Hal∣lirude house this 27th day of March 1603.

On the King's arrival at the boundary of the liberties of Berwick, he was received with every demonstration of duty and welcome, by Sir John Carey, then Marshal, accompanied by the officers of the garrison: their several corps of horse and foot were marshalled in due order, and on the King's passing saluted him with a feu de joy, which was return∣ed by a discharge of the artillery on the ramparts. The roads were lined with people, who on all sides joined in the loudest acclamations.

When his Majesty entered the gate, the keys of the town were deli∣vered to him, by William Selby, Gentleman Porter; who was immedi∣ately knighted, and the keys were returned. In the market-place, he was met by the body corporate of the borough; Hugh Gregson, the Mayor, presented him with an offering of gold, and surrender of their charter; after which the Recorder made a speech of congratulation: these the King received most graciously, at the same time restoring the charter, and promising his royal favour and protection. The King proceeded to the church to return thanks for his peaceful entry into his new dominions, when Toby Mathews, Bishop of Durham, preached an

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excellent sermon. From thence his Majesty went to the castle, the ordnance were again discharged, and the streets re-echoed with accla∣mations of joy. On the following day the King received several of the English Nobles, among whom were Lord Cobham, and Henry Howard, brother of the Duke of Norfolk, who came to Berwick to pay their duty to their new Sovereign: his Majesty inspected the fortifications, magazines, and port, and at the head of the garrison drawn out and under arms, with his own hands, discharged a piece of ordnance.

Berwick became the ducal title of James Fitz James, natural son of King James II. of England, whom he created Duke of Berwick, A. D. 1686.

Berwick is a borough of very great antiquity, being as before assert∣ed one of the four original Scotch burghs;* 7.10 the corporation was pre∣scriptive, but after this place became the settled possession of the English Crown, the corporate body was established by charter; and at present consists of a Mayor, Recorder, and four Bailiffs, chosen annually by the burgesses. This borough was summoned to send two members to parliament in the reign of King Henry VIII. the election of representa∣tives is by the burgesses, the Mayor and Bailiffs making the return.† 7.11

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The charter granted to the corporation by King James I. soon after his accession to the Crown of England, gives to the Mayor, Recorder, and Bailiffs many special liberties and privileges; or I may say more

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properly, confirms to them the several ancient prescriptive franchises and privileges, which Berwick from very distant ages had possessed: among which is the power of holding a Court of Pleas every fortnight

Page 94

—the right of having four Serjeants at Mace and a Coroner — a Guild with its privileges at large—authority to make By-laws for the govern∣ment of the town—to purchase lands of the value of 60l. per annum, notwithstanding the statute of mortmain. The burgesses are privileged with exemption of toll throughout the kingdom, and of prisage or im∣posts of wine brought into the port of Berwick; of pontage,* 7.23 passage, murage,† 7.24 pannage,‡ 7.25 cranage,§ 7.26 lastage,‖ 7.27 carncage,** 7.28 kayage,†† 7.29 vinage,‡‡ 7.30 achate and rechate.§§ 7.31 The corporation hath power to tax the inhabitants for the chamber's use, and hath seck and sock, toll and theam, ward and ward penny. The Mayor is Clerk of the Markets for the time being, and holds two weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday, having a pye-powder court, tolls, tallages, picage or stall-money, fines, amerciaments, &c. The jurisdiction of Berwick comprehends a court leet, and view of frankpledge, and anciently possessed the powers of infangtheof and out∣fangtheof; and with aid of the Coroner, who in this liberty retains the ancient authority of that office, and executes the duty of Sheriff, the body corporate hath power of assize and gaol delivery.

The Mayor and Corporation hold the seigniory borough and soke of Berwick, with all rights and privileges legally appertaining to such

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possessions, under the yearly rent of 20l. paid to the Receiver of the Crown. The boundaries are from the port, extending northward by the sea shore to the road called Brown Rod, and by that road westward to the rivulet of Witteter, and by the said road to the river Tweed, and by the river's banks to the port or haven.

The scite of the ancient castle and its outworks remains in the Crown, being specially reserved in the grants made to the corporation. Several tenements are in the same reservation, a water mill, the inner castle hills enclosed, the outer castle hills unenclosed, New Water Haugh, Lumsden's Avery, Gayn's Law, Goak Haugh, the Sunk, Maudlin Field, Coney Garths, Marshal Meadow, Horsman's Bat, Horsman's Meadow, Yellow Gowland Meadow, fishings in Tweed from Finches Haugh, and lands called Broadshaugh, Borrey Avery, and Ethermouth Avery.* 7.32

By the rolls of King Edward the Second's reign, it appears that a house of Carmelites, or White Friars, was founded at Berwick, by Sir John Grey, about the year 1270, whose duty it was to officiate at the chapel royal within the castle.† 7.33

According to the custom of the times, a religious house was founded at Berwick Bridge, dedicated to the Holy Trinity.‡ 7.34 Those praying fa∣thers were placed in such situations, to take possession of the moment of the traveller's gratitude, for his easy and safe passage over great rivers.

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By Rymer's Convent. it appears that there was also a house of Grey Friars here.* 7.35 The Master and Brethren of God's house are mentioned in Claus. 2 Edward III. m. 16. and had a grant of 20 marks per ann. out of Wetherborn, by pat. 21 Edward III. m. 21. and pat. 22 Ed∣ward III. p. 2. m.

Rex protegit Willielmo de Emeldon statum quem habet in Hospitali Domus Dei de Berwico.
† 7.36

Tanner says, here was a house of Friars Preachers before the year 1291.‡ 7.37 He also speaks of an Hospital dedicated to Mary Magdalen, with an appendant Hermitage at Sogden.§ 7.38 A field between Berwick walls and the sea, mentioned in the reservations to the Crown, bears the name of Maudlin Field to this day, from its being the ancient scite of the Hospital.‖ 7.39

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There is a free Grammar School appertaining to this town, founded by Queen Elizabeth, the Master nominated by the Guild. The atten∣tion paid to this part of the charge vested in the body corporate, can∣not appear in more favourable language, than contained in the adver∣tisement given in the note.* 7.40

The chief imports of the port of Berwick are from Norway and the Baltic, consisting of timber and deals: the exports, corn, wool, salmon, and eggs; the latter of which articles, though apparently small or in∣significant in the list, yet brings in an annual sum of 13 or 14,000l. they being sent to London for the use of sugar refiners, &c. packed in boxes the thick end down.

The salmon fishery here is very considerable. Mr Pennant speaks of it in the following terms:

They lay on each side the river, and are all private property, except what belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, which in rent and tithe of fish, brings in 450l. per annum: for all the other fisheries are liable to tithe. The common rents of these are 50l. a year, for which tenants have as much shore, as serves to launch out and draw their nets on shore; the limits of each are staked, and I observed that the fishers never failed going as near as possible to their neighbour's limits. One man goes off in a small flat-bottomed

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boat, square at one end; and taking as large a circuit as his net admits, brings it on shore at the extremity of his boundary, where others assist in landing it. The best fishery is on the south side; very fine salmon trout are often taken here, which come up from the sea to spawn, and return in the same manner as the salmon do. For a fuller account of this fishery, vide British Zoology III. 241. To it may also be added, that in the middle of the river, not a mile west of the town, is a large stone, on which a man is placed, to observe what is called the Reck of the salmon coming up.

Historians have differed greatly in the etymology of the name of Berwick. Camden seems to determine in favour of the Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the town of the Bernicians.

After having mentioned the evidences of antiquity, it is requisite, before I quit the subject, I should speak of Berwick in its natural state. Being built on an angular point of land, at the mouth of Tweed, on two sides it is bounded by water: the sea in this part of the channel is tempestuous and rough, the tide setting in very strong, occasions a heavy surge, which increased by frequent storms, renders the coast tre∣mendous. The prospect of the ocean conveys to the contemplative mind, a grand association of images, which describe the might and majesty of the Creator. As I walked the banks, imagination roved at large, but took a melancholy strain; I conceived I heard the alarm guns fired at Bambrough Castle, and the signal of distress waved in my Fancy's eye, from some vessel at a distance. The ocean, which before had affected my soul with a scene of magnificent delight, now seemed full of horror and dismay; the rolling billows became tremendous, the yawning gulph an object of gloomy terror, the whole conveyed the apprehension of imminent peril and distress; and in the end, all the agonies of a distracted crew, who laboured for life, filled my imagina∣tion, and the wanderings of Fancy were replete with dismay and misery.

The inhabitants of Berwick have enough of such horrid scenes: the coast is terrible to mariners. After having once been witness to so me∣lancholy an event, one would scarce ever look upon the sea again with pleasure.

The Land Prospect doth not produce a scene wild enough to be called romantic, or sufficiently cultivated, to be smooth, placid, and agreeable.

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The banks of Tweed loss much of their sweetness in the environs of the town; and Flora reserves most of her beauties for the neighbourhood of Kelso and Coldstream. Below Berwick bridge, there is not enough either of trade or tranquillity; it possesses the middle station; neither busy enough nor enough at rest, is dulness. Above bridge, in the fishing season, the scene is beautifully enlivened. Below, some few vessels are moored, but too often the heavy hulks are turned up on the dry sands, with masts unrigged, waiting for trade and tide. Such are dull objects to the eye, and have no other effect upon the spectator than to promote weariness and impatiency.

Over the arm of the sea which breaks upon the bar of Tweed, the lands to the southward are extended for several miles upon the view, varied with the happy colourings which succeed to cultivation; but the distance is so great, that objects are indistinct, and the beauties of the landskip lay in confusion: two often indeed the whole is enveloped in sea vapour.

I cannot take my departure from the banks of Tweed, without passing some few thoughts on the carnage and bloodshed, which for ages ren∣dered them famous to the arms of both the Scotch and English; and to posterity made their history a subject of horror and detestation.

Alberic Bishop of Ostia, being sent as Legate from Pope Innocent II. on his visitation at Carlisle, is said to have taken great pains to remon∣strate to the army of King David of Scotland, after the retreat from the battle of Alerton, that they ought to wage war with greater humanity; and prevailed with them so far as to gain the release of the female cap∣tives, whom they were carrying as slaves into Scotland. He also ob∣tained their solemn engagement, that in future inroads they would not violate the churches and religious houses; and would also spare from the sword, women, infants, and the aged. These shew to us what were the infamous enormities committed in these expeditions.

The war carried on between the two nations, was as brutal as any in the annals of the Caribbees, or any savages under the sun. The pub∣lic injuries of states, the policy of empires, the balance of trade, the peace of Europe, or the equilibrium of power, were not the objects of warfare: like the wild Arabs, the estate of the people was that of rob∣bers, rapine and plunder their objects; as if devoid of all religious sense

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of oaths and moral obligations, the compacts of states, and the ties of honour and moral honesty, they often forsook every principle for plun∣der, and like barbarians, levied war for the sake of pillaging, of re∣prisal, and retribution. When the wolves descend the Alps upon the villages, it is the effect of hunger in its extreme; but here the blood of the peasant was shed without any cogency of cause, but the lucre of his herds, flocks, and possessions. The immortal King John burnt, laid waste, and destroyed half the island, from York northward: Alexander in all his glory never exhibited a more noble conflagration. Edward contaminated his honours with many of those atchievements. Torrents of blood have issued from these borders; they were the common char∣nel of the two nations. Thirty-three thousand souls fled in one day to the gates of eternity, dispatched by the command of Princes, who could not account to heaven what it was they fought for. The petit massacres were equally as inconsiderate; the heroes of those bands walked forth with their adherents, imbruing their hands in human gore, burning and destroying, laying waste towers, towns and villages, and spreading deso∣lation, in the most savage manner, for the reward of savages: reciprocal slaughters, devastations, and cruelties marked both people. When the most valiant atchievements were performed, even in the presence of their Princes, revenge appeared to be the only instigation, and common justice was seldom considered. What was the battle of Allerton, in the reign of Stephen, when David with a mighty slaughter was overthrown, after having ravaged Northumberland and Durham, returning like a dis∣appointed miscreant, with his hands red in the blood of thousands of his band of robbers! William King of Scotland was a prisoner on one of his incursions: he witnessed a cruel slaughter of his people. Our Edward I. slew 60,000 at Falkirk; Edward III. slew his tens of thousands at Hally-down Hill; and Penrith and Durham witnessed to the succeeding de∣struction made of the Scots in this reign under their unfortunate David, who in the battle at the last-mentioned place was made prisoner. The battles of Otterburn and Flodden Field were upon the same principles as the others.—How doth this retrospection fully the hero, stain the lustre of his arms, and the honour of his valour! yet it is too true such were the conflicts on the borders, and such the arms that waged the inglorious warfare on this once wretched, but now most happy coun∣try; at this time abounding with wealth, flowing from peace, by the channels of cultivation, manufactory, and trade: where the brethren of one climate and one island, under the blessed protection of one com∣mon father, and a constitution admired and envied by all the world,

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are acting together in a state of mutual offices, to contribute to the general opulence and felicity.

How baneful and obnoxious is he to the common interests of this now united family, who attempts to sow the seeds of dissatisfaction and jealousy, and through calumnies arising in the venom of malevo∣lence and disappointed ambition endeavours to cultivate contempt and aversion between the brethren of this land! The strength of this, and every nation, is the union of its inhabitants—he who blows up the embers of extinguished feuds, is particularly an enemy to both parties, and a foe to the state at large.

The accession of King James the VI. to the Crown of England, ope∣rated powerfully towards the felicity of this part of the island; cultiva∣tion immediately took place, the country so often desolated by war, received new inhabitants, who brought with them not only flocks and herds, but also manufactories and commerce: the works effected in peace were soon distinguished, the barren wastes were put under the plough share, towns and hamlets diversified the scene, and increasing population enlivened every valley, which for ages had been marked by works of hostility. Yet it was not till the union of the two kingdoms, that these effects of peace were brought to the happy eminence now discovered on every hand. As to political advantages, it is evident, their discussion comes not within my plan in this work; I am per∣suaded of their vast importance to both nations: Mrs Macauley says,

on very sound principles of policy, the union had been several times rejected by both nations; and which was with great difficulty coerced on the Scots: though as Burnet observes, the advantages which were offered to Scotland, in the whole frame of it, were great and visible. The Scots were to bear less than the fortieth part of the public taxes, and they were to have the eleventh part of the legisla∣ture. Trade was to be free all over the island, and to the plantations; private rights were to be preserved; and the judicature and laws of Scotland were still to be continued.
* 7.41

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Whether the security pretended to be obtained by England by this union was worth purchasing at so high a price: whether the union

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has answered the expectations of those who prophefied that it would be the means of extending the bounds of the British empire, and of

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enlarging the happiness of its citizens, by cementing in the closest bands of friendship two nations who had ever regarded each other

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with the eyes of jealousy and aversion, will be differently deter∣mined by men, who, from their different connections in both or either countries, have contracted different prejudices; but whether, as the series of these times predicted, it will be attended with conse∣quences no less fatal than the destruction of the laws and constitution of England, the space of a very few years will, in all probability, determine beyond a doubt.

We passed by the sands to

HOLY ISLAND;

the morning was calm, the sea smooth, and the land prospect gilded with the sun; very beautiful, though not much variegated.

The description given of this island (Symeon, p. 87) is to the follow∣ing purport:

That in circumference it comprehends eight miles, in which was a noble Monastery, famous for its Prelates, (among whom was St. Cuthbert) whose bodies were there deposited, and whose me∣mory would live for ever. It hath the name of Lindisfarn, from a small rivulet called Lindis, which from the opposite continent empties itself into the sea."* 11.1 By Bede it is described, "Qui locus accedente ac recedente reumate, bis quotidiae instar insulae maris circumluitur undis, bis, renudato littore contiguus terrae redditur.
† 11.2

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There is one small farm of cultivated land upon the island, with some few acres of good pasture ground, capable of improvement; and the rest, by the violence of tempests, is covered with sand. The island chiefly consists of one continued plain, inclining to the south-west. The land on which the village stands, rises swiftly from the shore; at the southern point, is a rock of a conical figure, and almost perpendicular, near 60 feet in height, having on its lofty crown a small fortress or castle, which makes at once a grotesque and formidable appearance. I did not observe one tree upon the island.

[figure] depiction of Holy Island
HOLY ISLAND

The village consists of a few scattered houses, two of which are Inns, the rest chiefly inhabited by fishermen. The shore is excellent for bathing, and the situation at once healthy and romantic: it is surprising it should be so little resorted to. The north and east coasts of the island are formed of perpendicular rocks, the other sides sink by gradual de∣clinations towards the sands. The rock on which the castle stands, is accessible only by a winding pass cut on its southern side: the narrow limits of its crown will not admit of many works, the whole strength consisting of a single battery on the south-east point, mounted with seven or eight guns, which commands the approach to the island from the sea; but would be of little consequence against a ship of any con∣siderable force. The rest of the summit is taken up with a house for the Governor and guard, the walls of which stand on the very brink of the precipice. This fortress, before the use of gunpowder, from its

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situation appears to have been impregnable, the superstructures being above the reach of any engine, and the rocks too high to be scaled. The antiquity of this castle is not known, but I should presume it is coeval with the abbey, and was used as a place of resort in times of peril, and a stronghold for the religious, whenever they were disturbed in their holy retreat. The present fortifications appear to be the work of the last century. In the military establishment made by Queen Eliza∣beth for Berwick in 1576, the castle is noted, and a patent for life was granted to Sir William Read as keeper of the fortresses of Holy Island and Farn, with a yearly payment of 362l. 17s. 6d. per annum.

The ingenious Mr Grose gives the following anecdotes relative to this castle:—

Camden mentions it, so that it is evidently as old as his time. Probably it has been the scene of very few remarkable events: history being nearly as silent with respect to them, as concerning its origin. The first time it occurs, is in the history of the civil war in the time of Charles I. when it appears to have been seized for the Parliament; and according to Rushworth, in an order of the House of Commons, May 7th, 1646, for sending forces thither, this reason is assigned, "it being of such consequence to the northern parts of the kingdom. Probably this consequence arose, more for the conve∣nience of its harbour, than the strength of the castle."

In the year 1647, one Captain Batton was Governor of the island, for the Parliament; to whom Sir Marmaduke Langdale, after the taking of Berwick, wrote the following letter, but without success. The letter, together with the Captain's refusal, were transmitted to the House of Commons, for which they voted their thanks to Captain Batton, and that he should be continued Governor of the place.

Sir, you have the good opinion of the counties to be a sober discreet man amongst them, which emboldeneth me, a stranger to you, to propose (that which every man in his duty to God and the King ought to perform) the veil of these horrid designs plotted by some, that men may run and read the misery and thraldom they intend upon the whole nation. It is believed by many that know you, that you are sensible of the imprisonment of his Majesty, and the violation of all our laws. If you please to consider the ends being changed, perhaps for which you first engaged, and comply with the King's interest, by keeping the fort now in possession for the King's use; I will engage myself to see all the arrears due to yourself and the soldiers duly

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paid, and to procure his Majesty's favour for the future: and that I only may receive some satisfaction from you, that this motion is as really accepted as intended by

Your humble servant, MARMADUKE LANGDALE.

Berwick, April 30th, 1647.

Holy Island does not appear ever to have fallen into the hands of the Royalists; for it continued in the possession of the Parliamenta∣rians anno. 1648; when it was (as may be seen in Rushworth) re∣lieved with necessaries by Colonel Fenwick's horse and some dragoons. From that time nothing memorable seems to have been transacted here, till the rebellion in the year 1715, when the seizure of this castle was planned and performed by two men only. In which ex∣ploit, such policy and courage were exerted, as would have done them much honour, had they been employed in a better cause. The following particulars of the story were communicated by a Gentleman whose father was an eye-witness to the facts, and well knew both the parties.

One Lancelot Errington, a man of an ancient and respectable fa∣mily in Northumberland, and of a bold and enterprizing spirit, en∣tered into a conspiracy for seizing this castle for the Pretender; in which it is said, he was promised assistance not only by Mr Forster, the rebel General then in arms, but also by the masters of several French privateers. At this time the garrison consisted of a serjeant, a corporal, and 10 or 12 men only. In order to put this scheme in execution, being well known in that country, he went to the castle, and after some discourse with the serjeant, invited him and the rest of the men, who were not immediately on duty, to partake of a treat on board of the ship of which he was master, then lying in the har∣bour: this being unsuspectingly accepted of, he so well plied his guests with brandy, that they were soon incapable of any opposition. These men being thus secured, he made some pretence for going on shore; and with Mark Errington his nephew, returning again to the castle, they knocked down the centinel, surprized and turned out an old gunner, the corporal, and two other soldiers, being the remain∣der of the garrison, and shutting the gates, hoisted the Pretender's colours as a signal of their success, anxiously expecting the promised succours. No reinforcement coming, but on the contrary a party of the King's troops arriving from Berwick, they were obliged to retreat

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over the walls of the castle, among the rocks, hoping to conceal them∣selves under the sea weeds till it was dark, and then by swimming to the main land, to make their escape: but the tide rising, they were obliged to swim, when the soldiers firing at Lancelot as he was climb∣ing up a rock, wounded him in the thigh. Thus disabled, he and his nephew were taken and conveyed to Berwick gaol, where they con∣tinued till his wound was cured. During this time he had digged a burrow quite under the foundations of the prison, depositing the earth taken out in an old oven. Through this burrow he and his nephew, with divers other prisoners, escaped; but most of the latter were soon after taken. The two Erringtons however had the good fortune to make their way to the Tweedside, where they found the custom-house boat; they rowed themselves over, and afterwards turned it adrift. From thence they pursued their journey to Bam∣brough Castle, near which they were concealed nine days in a pea∣stack; a relation who resided in the castle supplying them with pro∣vision. At length travelling in the night by secret paths, they reached Gateshead House, near Newcastle, where they were secreted till they procured a passage from Sunderland to France. A reward of 500l. was now offered to any one who would apprehend them; notwith∣standing which, Lancelot was so daring as soon after to come into England, and even to visit some of his friends in Newgate. After the suppression of the rebellion, when every thing was quiet, he and his nephew took the benefit of the general pardon, and returned to Newcastle, where he died about the year 1746, as it is said, of grief at the victory of Culloden.

The remains of the old abbey in the next place require my attention; such parts of this cathedral are standing as give a perfect idea of its original form and appearance. The monastery is in ragged ruins, and not worthy to be delineated, the walls having been robbed for the build∣ings in the village, and the erection of the present parochial church.

It is said by some authors, that the monastery was built by St. Cuthbert of a plain model, without ornament, and enclosed with a high wall, in order that outward objects might not withdraw the attention of the so∣ciety from their divine contemplations.

In Mr West's Antiquities of Furness Abbey, we have this short account of the rise and origin of Monastic Orders.

Soon after the christian

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religion had made some considerable progress in the east, the policy of the Roman empire exposed the professors of it to many and great in∣conveniencies, and a succession of bloody persecutions: the two last under Decius and Dioclesian more especially obliged many to betake themselves to mountains, deserts, and solitary places, to secure them∣selves from the unrelenting fury of these bloody tyrants: there they found a safe retreat, with time and liberty to give themselves up to the exercises of piety and divine contemplation, in a course of most rigorous mortifications, and preternatural austerities. This kind of life, which necessity gave rise to, was afterwards in the time of the Christian Emperors, embraced through choice; and Pacomius about the middle of the 4th century, committed to writing rules for regu∣lar societies, and founded some monasteries in the environs of Thebes in Egypt.

The introduction of Monks into England, is spoken of as a master-piece of policy in the court of Rome, as endeavouring thereby to secure her authority by an increase of property, which would arise to her by the pious donations and offerings of the faithful, and the founding of many religious houses, to be occupied by such as were, from the nature of their institute, attached to the Holy See, and might occasionally serve every purpose of spiritual tyranny. And it is alledged, that the Monks by the austerity of their religion and morals fascinated the minds of the people, and by their pretension to extra∣ordinary sanctity, secured a submission to all their decisions, and an implicit obedience to all their doctrines. This is a heavy charge, and if well grounded, should have prevented the monastic rule from ever taking effect in any kingdom, or occasioned its ruin as soon as the discovery was made, or the charge formed.

This he obviates, by monasteries being established here before Austin's time; and takes for his authorities Gildas and Bede, as to their being schools of christian learning. He adds,

in all this, we hear nothing of foreign connections, of sinister inventions, or hypocrisy.

The Roman Pontiff knew how to draw from the circumstances of William's afrairs, advantages which the Conqueror never intended; and which his immediate successors could not prevent, as they were equally or more obliged to the church for her support, than he himself had been. The foreign Ecclesiastics which the Norman King

Page [unnumbered]

[figure] depiction of Lindisfarn Abbey
LINDISFARN N. Aspect

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introduced, readily gave up the liberty of a country, to which they were strangers, and a happiness the sweets whereof they had never known: but from that consequence, of which the Conqueror and his sons had made them, they soon became sensible of ther own impor∣tance; the foreign Monks, from the great property conferred upon them, soon found of what weight they were in the scale of govern∣ment, and readily turned it to their own advantages, as occasion of∣fered.

The introduction, therefore, of so many new orders of Monks into England by the Norman Kings, was according to their own policy, and not that of the Court of Rome.
—He then takes occasion to men∣tion the good offices of the church in favour of the Conqueror's younger sons, and the Earl of Moreton and King John.

The Court of Rome could have no direct hand in all this; and the monastick institute, of its own nature, can have no part in either a civil or a spiritual tyranny, unless where perverted; as the best of institutes may have been, by the malice of men.
—I have been led to lengthen the quotation beyond the bounds I at first intended, to shew with what arguments this subtle author, and other writers of the like class, can put a plausible countenance on facts, which reflected disho∣nour on the See of Rome. But to return from this digression.

The cathedral is in the form of a cross, the east and west limbs of which are yet standing, the other parts totally in ruins, and almost level with the ground. The order of building in this structure is rude and heavy, and most of it in the worst mode of the early Saxon architecture. Mr Grose says,

probably it was the work of different periods; great part of it seems very ancient, the arches being circular, and the co∣lumns very massy and much like those at Durham, but richer. On the north and south walls there are pointed arches, which proves that part of it at least was built since the reign of Henry II.
The pil∣lars on which the arches rise in the center of the cross are clustered and plain capitalled, each forming the corner of the great tower; these arches are of few members. There are two side ailes, the columns of which are heavy, and the arches circular: the windows are nar∣row, and ornamented with a corner pilaster, and a moulding of few members: the walls are very thick, and every part wears a gloomy countenance. The south wall of the middle tower is standing about 50

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feet high; and one corner tower on the west end of the church remains perfect.* 12.1 These ruins retain at this day one most singular beauty, the tower has not formed a lanthorn, as in most cathedrals; but from the angles, arches sprang, crossing each other diagonally, to form a canopy roof. One of those arches yet remains, unloaded with any su∣perstructure, supported by the south-east and north-west corner pillars, and ornamented with the dancette or zig-zag moulding, much used in old Saxon architecture, extending a fine bow over the chasm and heap of ruins occasioned by the falling-in of the ailes. The whole structure is composed of a soft red free-stone, which yields much to time, and renders the aspect of the building dark and melancholy. Mr Grose's account comprehends the following particulars:

Various fragments of the offices of this monastery are still stand∣ing, and foundations of buildings are scattered over a close of near four acres; the main walls of the church on the north and south sides are still standing, though much out of the perpendicular; inclining outwards so considerably, as to make the horizontal distance between them, at the top, exceed, by near two feet, that at the bottom. Ano∣ther winter or two seems to be the utmost they can stand.

This building consists of a body and two side ailes, into which it is divided by a double row of very solid columns, whose shafts are richly ornamented. Each row has five columns of four different con∣structions, and two pilasters in the walls on the east and west ends. The shafts of these columns are about 12 feet high, their diameters about five, their capitals and pedestals are plain, they support circular arches, having over each arch two ranges of windows; the lowest large and in pairs, separated only by a short column; the upper small and single. The length of the building is about 138 feet, the breadth of the body 18 feet, and that of the two side ailes about nine feet each.

The prospect from this island is beautiful; to the northward you command the town of Berwick, over an arm of the sea about seven miles in breadth: at nearly the same distance you view Bambrough Castle, on a bold promontory, towards the south: on the one hand you have a

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view of the open sea, at the time of our observation calm and resplen∣dent, and scattered over with vessels; and on the other hand a narrow channel, by which the land is insulated, about two miles in width; the distant shore exhibits a beautiful hanging landskip of cultivated coun∣try, graced with a multitude of cottages, villages, and woodlands.

This island became the seat of Episcopacy early in the aera of conver∣sion: the Northumbrians received the christian doctrine much sooner than some of the southern provinces of Britain. Oswald King of Nor∣thumberland,* 12.2 in the second year of his reign, and in the year of our Lord 635,† 12.3 founded the Bishopric of Lindisfarn, the proper name of this island, as before observed.

The succession of Bishops was as follows.‡ 12.4

EPISCOPUS I.

Aidan, of Scotch extraction,§ 12.5 an excellent Pastor, to whom is attri∣buted the conversion of many of the Saxons. The King frequently offi∣ciated as interpreter of this Prelate's doctrines, to an audience who

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knew not his dialect.* 12.6 The venerable Bede speaks thus honourably of him:

Ut multa, inquit breviter, comprehendam, quantum ab eis, qui illum novere didicimus, nichil ex omnibus quae in Evangelicis sive Apostolicis, sive Propheticis litteris facienda cognoverat praeter mittere, sed cuncta pro suis viribus operibus explere curabat.
Ac∣cording to the above author, he was a Monk of the Isle Hii, otherwise called by him Hydestinate, whose convent was said to be founded by Columbus. What greatly contributed to the prevalence of his doctrines, was his exemplary life, which strictly corresponded with the rules he prescribed:† 12.7 he was constantly employed in preaching, to which end he travelled much, and seldom on horseback.

Oswald, some few years after these pious works, was slain,‡ 12.8 and ca∣nonized. Aidan held the Bishopric 17 years, and died, it is said, through grief for the loss of his royal patron, A. D. 651:§ 12.9 his spirit ascended to heaven, where the future Saint, the elected Cuthbert, who was promised to the faithful, as he tended his sheep on the hills near the river Leder, in a holy vision, beheld him in his celestial glory; and from thenceforth

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vowing a life of sanctity, entered the monastery of Mailross, under the Abbot Eata.* 12.10

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EPISCOPUS II.

Finan, in the year 651, succeeded Aidan in this Bishopric: he was a Scotchman, and member of the same society with his predecessor.* 12.11 He built a church on the island, which according to the fashion which prevailed in Scotland in those days, was constructed of beams and planks of oak covered with reeds. Archbishop Theodore, some time after this building was compleated, dedicated it to St. Peter. Eadbert, a succeeding Bishop, improved or rather rebuilt the church, and co∣vered it with lead.† 12.12 Pope Gregory commanded Finan to remove his

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See to York; but the mode of government established in the Eastern churches, was the only ecclesiastical rule which he had adopted, and consequently the Papal supremacy was denied, and the command un∣observed. This Bishop baptized two royal converts, Penda * 12.13 the Mer∣cian King, and Segbert King of the East Angles. He ordained Bishops to attend the initiated, who in consequence of the example of the Princes, and from the influence of their own doctrines, converted multitudes. Finan was Bishop ten years, and died in the year 661.

EPISCOPUS III.

He was succeeded by Colmannus,† 12.14 who also came to this See from Scotland: ‡ 12.15 he held it only for three years, being disgusted at the part which King Oswy took, touching the affairs of church government, in which he coincided with the Romish maxims.§ 12.16 Thirty English, and all his countrymen who adhered to his tenets, left the island when he de∣parted, and accompanied him to Scotland.‖ 12.17 He carried with him some of the remains of Aidan, as holy relics, leaving the rest in the church

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of Holy Island, which afterwards, it is said, were by the order of King Edmund, whilst on his northern expedition, removed to Glastonbury.* 12.18

EPISCOPUS IV.

Tuda then became Bishop, being the first of this See who adhered to the modes and principles of Rome: he was educated in the western parts of Scotland,† 12.19 and it is said came into England with Colmannus. He held the Bishopric a very short time, being carried off by a pesti∣lence which then raged in Northumberland.‡ 12.20 Bede's remarks on the succession of Scotch Bishops ending in Tuda, are too honourable to be omitted observation here. Their frugality, simplicity of life, and par∣simony appeared in the place of their residence, in which there was no∣thing unnecessary, or unadapted to the simplest accommodation: in the church only magnificence was permitted. Their possessions consisted chiefly in cattle, for money was no longer retained than till a fit oppor∣tunity offered to distribute it to the poor. Places of entertainment for Potentates and Princes were unnecessary, for they were visited only for their doctrines and the holy offices of the church. The King himself, when he came thither from his royal residence, had no other object in view than to partake of the rites of religion, and departed immediately after the service: if perchance he took refreshment, it was of the com∣mon fare of the Monks. The attention of these Pastors was on spiritual matters only; temporal affairs were deemed derogatory of their holy appointment; and thence arose the high veneration which was paid by all ranks of people to the religious habit. When any Ecclesiastic went from his monastery, it was to preach the word of salvation, and he was every where received with joy, as a messenger of the Divinity: on the road, the passengers bowed the head to receive the sign of the cross and his benediction, with pious reverence noting his precepts, as documents of the most salutary purport: the churches were crowded with a devout

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audience, and when a Monk was seen entering a village on his travels, the inhabitants flocked about him, entreating for his admonitions and prayers. On their visitations, riches and donations were not their pur∣suit; when a religious society received any augmentation of the reve∣nues of the house, it was through compassion by the donor, and they accepted it as an additional store with which they were entrusted for the benefit of the poor.

EPISCOPUS V.

Chad was his successor, by the title of Bishop of York, at the nomina∣tion of King Alfred. He was a man of great humility, and without am∣bition. He received two consecrations, one during the vacancy of the See of Canterbury, and the other by Theodore, at York. At the in∣stance of Oswy and Alfred he resigned his Bishopric in favour of Wilfred.

EPISCOPUS VI.

Wilfred was the preceptor of King Alfred;* 12.21 he was a Northumbrian by birth, and received his education at Lindisfarn: being recommended by Queen Eanfleda to a Nobleman called Cudda, who retired to this mo∣nastery, he attended him thither as his companion, and continued there from the 14th to the 18th year of his age. During this Prelate's epis∣copacy there happened great revolutions and changes in the See of Lin∣disfarn; the death of King Oswy was only a part of the calamities which fell upon Northumberland in his time: Egfrid not only obtained the throne of the deceased Sovereign, but by his powerful interest and ef∣forts deposed Alfred, assuming the second scepter, and uniting the whole in one sovereignty. Wilfred was a proud aspiring man, and debased the pall of the Prelate with ambition. He became obnoxious to Theo∣dore, who determined to humble him, and in a short time got his de∣position effected. Theodore had great interest with Egfrid, which he used on this occasion, to gratify his malice and resentment; and under that ordinary craft of Ecclesiastics, a specious pretence for the advance∣ment of religion and the honour of the church, he obtained the royal mandate to divide the kingdom of Northumberland into two dioceses, on a presumption that one Bishop had too much power and authority. This ancient diocese then underwent a severance, and the two parts

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were distinguished by the names of York and Lindisfarn: that of York comprehending the district of Deira, and Lindisfarn that of Bernicia. The adopted supremacy of Rome, gave opportunity for appeal, and Wilfred, burning with resentment and disappointed ambition, fled thi∣ther, where a chapter being readily obtained, he returned with the Pope's resolution in form for his restoration. Big with the supreme mandate, he obtruded himself abruptly on the royal presence; but to his great mortification, found the King exasperated at his insolence and impudent appeal: not being the vassal of the See of Rome, he pro∣fessed his contempt of its commands, reproached Wilfred for having procured his credentials by bribery, and as a presumptuous offender against the royal dignity, he cast him into prison. His lamentable si∣tuation excited the intercession of the devout Ebba,* 12.22 aunt to the King, who obtained his liberty with an injunction, that he never afterwards should enter the kingdom of Northumberland. After his release, Wilfred became a member of the monastery of Glastonbury, under the then Abbot Berthwald, of the royal house of Mercians; but Egfrid's wrath and resentment was not subsided, he continued his persecution of him even in his retreat, and obtained his expulsion from that house. He then fled to the court of Adelwack King of Sussex, whose subjects were just receiving the light of conversion, and that King gave him a Bishopric called Selsey. Upon Egfrid's demise, the crown of Northumberland de∣volved upon Alfred; and Theodore declining in health and strength, as he approached the grave in the steps of old age, grew anxious to acquit or relieve his conscience of the severities he had exercised against Wilfred, sought to gain his friendship, and by his interest with the Crown and earnest solicitations, obtained his restoration to the See of York. Wilfred had no sooner reassumed his ecclesiastical dignity, than his ungovern∣able ambition and arrogance blazed out anew: the See of York, at his first assumption of the episcopal dignity, held in unity the kingdom of Northumberland; at his restoration it was dismembered by a triple seve∣rance, by the disunition of Lindisfarn and the new constitution of Hex∣ham. Wilfred made injudicious pretensions and claims to effect a re∣union, which so exasperated the King, and was a thing so inconsistent with the politics of the times, that he was again expelled, and obliged to fly the realm. He now sought refuge in the court of Mercia, where

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he won upon the ear of Etheldred, and gained from him the Bishopric of Leicester. Adversity is said to be the school of wisdom, but it proved not so with Wilfred; for in this new institution he conducted himself with that insolence and impropriety, that he soon incurred the displea∣sure of the Mercian King and the Archbishop of Canterbury, who brought him to trial before a synod, and deposed him. He was now 70 years of age, and yet his powers were so little debilitated, and his passions remained so warm, that he again journeyed to Rome, and in spite of the character of a turbulent and contentious Prelate, which he carried with him, obtained a decree for his restoration. He returned a second time with the powers of Rome in his favour, and at a more favourable season to obtain the rewards of his labour. The Archbishop found it convenient at that time to adhere to the mandate of supre∣macy; the Mercian King had fallen into a state of enthusiasm, and as∣sumed the habit of a Monk; the King of Northumberland was under the attacks of a dangerous disease, and feeling compunctions for the suf∣ferings Wilfred had undergone, became reconciled to him. Appearances were now much in the Prelate's favour, and the propitious hour seemed to await him, but Fate snatched off Alfred before a restoration was ef∣fected. He obtained a council to be held upon the banks of the river Nidd, under the mandate of King Osred, Alfred's successor, where with great difficulty he gained the Bishoprick of Hexham, a small and mo∣dern member of his former See.

EPISCOPUS VII.

When the severance of Bernicia and Deira again took place, Eata was Bishop of Lindisfarn:* 12.23 he was one of the pupils of Aidan, who lived to see him his successor in the Abbacy of Mailross. About the year 664,† 12.24

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Eata left Mailross to receive the Episcopacy of Lindisfarn, which he pos∣sessed for many years, tho' not entire; for during his time the Bishopric of Hexham was instituted, and a portion of the See of Lindisfarn severed for the new appropriation. Eata fell into the opposition of Theodore, and denied his jurisdiction as Metropolitan over the northern churches. Theodore was a powerful adversary, and held abundance of resentment when his pride was wounded. He caused the convention of a chapter of Bishops to be held on the Banks of Aln, A. D. 684, when Eata was deposed.* 12.25 On this event Cuthbert was elected to Lindisfarn, and Eata was translated to Hexham; Theodore not presuming to carry his re∣sentment to so high a pitch, as entirely to degrade him.† 12.26

EPISCOPUS VIII.

Cuthbert, from whose piety and exemplary life the church derived great honour as well as riches, calls for particular attention. The cloister of Mailross was honoured with his initiation to a religious life, the pious Eata was his preceptor, and induced him to become a member of the house of Lindisfarn.‡ 12.27 A happy vision which had been revealed to Cuthbert, § 12.28

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whilst he tended his flocks on the mountains, first warmed his mind with that religious fervour which prompted him to a monastic life. He was received into the fraternity of Mailross at an early age, possessing a graceful person,* 12.29 an emphatic and clear expression, poignant wit and

Page 124

eloquence, and engaging manners: with such natural advantages, it is not to be wondered that his doctrines were persuasive, or rather irre∣sistible.

Page 125

For twelve years he governed the priory of Lindisfarn, where he lived an exemplary life for piety and self-denial, and never ceased

Page 126

his exhortations to religion and virtue, frequently taking journies into the desert and mountainous parts of the country, to instruct and con∣vert

Page 127

the most barbarous of the inhabitants. At length conceiving that the luxury or ease of a monastic life afforded too selfish enjoyments, to

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allow his spirit due attendance on contemplations and the service of the Deity, he retired from Lindisfarn, and commenced the life of an

Page 129

Anchorite, in the largest of the Farne Islands, laying opposite to Bam∣brough, and within sight of Lindisfarn, being distant from thence about two leagues.* 13.1 He built a cell with a small oratory, and surrounded it with a wall, which cut off the view of every object but heaven.† 13.2 He could not have chosen a place better adapted to a life of mortification and severity than this island; the ancient description of it is horrible, seated near a stormy coast, surrounded by rocks, over which the sea breaks incessantly with great tumult, destitute of fresh water, with∣out tree for shelter, or fruit-bearing shrub, or where withal to sustain human life; and worse than all, said to be possessed by devils.‡ 13.3 But the happy and miraculous change which took place, on Cuthbert's taking up his solitary residence there, is too singular to escape observation:§ 13.4 the flinty rock bubbled with fountains of fresh water, the once barren soil with prolific abundance brought forth grain,‖ 13.5 trees and shrubs

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bearing fruit decked the smiling shores, the troubled waters clapped their hands for joy, the plains assumed a mantle of green embroidered with flowers, the evil spirits were bound in eternal darkness, and an∣gels of light communed with the Anchorite. Such are the records of the religious of those ages.* 13.6 Credis huic quod dicat?

This life of severity excited the reverence and admiration of those ages of ignorance. Whether enthusiasm alone could determine the hu∣man mind to such undertakings, or there was a degree of pride mixed in the influenza, I cannnot determine. The vices of those times, I pre∣sume, were not attended with such degrees of despair as are unknown to us; the inducements must have been more complicated than the out∣ward countenance of piety expressed. How different the manners of the religious of the same church in modern times.

An ambitious or hypocritical religious, who makes a profession of humility, whilst he is puffed up with pride; a man meanly clad, and who only seeks after riches; a pretender to devotion, who gives himself out as a servant of God, while he is no more than a slave to his passions, is a monster both in church and state.
Every intriguing Monk or Friar, who thrusts himself into families, for the purpose of prying into secrets, regulating marriages or wills, is as despicable as he is dangerous.
— These are the liberal sentiments of the immortal Ganganelli, Pope Cle∣ment XIV. whose works have placed the Romish church in a more amiable point of view, than it has appeared in several past ages.

I have frequently ruminated on man's several affections, and this se∣verity of St. Cuthbert's restores to my memory some distant ideas. I have always considered Friendship as comprehending the most excellent feelings of the human heart: how a social and generous-minded man could live without the enjoyment of friendship, and totally withdraw himself from all attachments with the world, is to me truly a severity little to be comprehended. I presume the Saint must have held the

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very argument Mr Hume* 13.7 adopts to account for the austerities of su∣perstitious men.

Nor is it satisfactory to say, that the practice of morality is more difficult than that of superstition; and is therefore rejected. For, not to mention the excessive pennances of the Bach∣man's and Talaponis; it is certain, that the Rhamadan of the Turks, during which the poor wretches, for many days, often in the hottest months of the year, and in some of the hottest climates in the world, remain without eating or drinking from the rising to the setting sun; this Rhamadan, I say, must be more severe than the practice of any moral duty, even to the most vicious and depraved of mankind. The four Lents of the Muscovites, and the austeries of some Roman Catho∣licks, appear more disagreeable than meekness and benevolence.

Perhaps, the following account may be received as a true solution of the difficulty. The duties which a man performs as a friend or parent, seem meerly owing to his benefactor or children; nor can he be wanting to these duties, without breaking through all the ties of nature and morality. A strong inclination may prompt him to the performance: a sentiment of order and moral obligation joins its force to these natural ties: and the whole man is truly virtuous, is drawn to his duty, without any effort or endeavour. Even with re∣gard to the virtues, which are more austere, and more founded on reflection, such as public spirit, filial duty, temperance, or integrity; the moral obligation, in our apprehension, remove all pretension to religious merit; and the virtuous conduct is deemed no more, than what we owe to society and to ourselves. In all this, a superstitious man finds nothing, which he has properly performed for the sake of his Deity, or which can peculiarly recommend him to the divine fa∣vour and protection. He considers not, that the most genuine me∣thod of serving the Divinity, is by promoting the happiness of his creatures. He still looks out for some more immediate service of the Supreme Being, in order to allay those terrors, with which he is haunted. And any practice, recommended to him, which either serves to no purpose in life, or offers the strongest violence to his na∣tural inclinations; that practice he will the more readily embrace, on account of those very circumstances, which should make him ab∣solutely reject it. It seems the more purely religious, because it pro∣ceeds

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from no mixture of any other motive or consideration. And if, for its sake, he sacrifices much of his ease and quiet, his claim of merit appears still to rise upon him, in proportion to the zeal and devotion which he discovers. In restoring a loan, or paying a debt, his Divinity is in no wise beholden to him; because these acts of justice are what he was bound to perform, and what many would have performed, were there no God in the universe. But if he fast a a day, or give himself a sound whipping; this has a direct reference, in his opinion, to the service of God. No other motive could engage him to such austerities. By these distinguished marks of devotion, he has now acquired the divine favour; and may expect, in recompence, protection and safety in this world, and eternal happiness in the next.

But I will quit this review, to return to the more interesting features of Friendship.

If we compare Friendship to the other affections of man, we see Love has a powerful influence on the human heart; but its bounds are con∣fined, and its conclusions selfish; it has but one object to possess: its attachments are rigorous indeed, but full of prejudice; and its whole influence centers in an Egoity, wherein generosity and honour lose much of their lustre.

Gratitude is an excellent operation of the soul; our obligations are therein duly estimated: it is a confession of our former indigence; and self-importance is refined by such humiliation: it depends on the com∣parison which is drawn, between our own wants and the bounty re∣ceived. Gratitude is a branch of moral honesty, a confession of the debt of obligation.

Yet Friendship is abundantly superior to Love and Gratitude; it is an affection of the heart, in which Benevolence presides: it is accompanied by an openness of mind, wherein Generosity and Honour are exemplary, without selfishness, or price, or consideration of reward. In Friendship, the bosom is expanded and elated; secrecy, guile, and concealment are expelled; and probity, truth, and virtue reign in their place. There is an energy in Friendship, to which every faculty contributes: it fires the soul with fervour, and fills the heart with gladness. You act there∣in, from the same principles, as would conduct your own nearest and most momentous affairs: it is that divine perfection, to which we are

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peculiarly exhorted: Love your neighbour as yourself. With our friend all disguise is thrown off; the political guise of politeness, which masks sincerity, is taken away; the heart leaps with affection; the eyes gaze with rapture, approbation, and esteem; the countenance glows with expressions of delight; the bosom is unlocked, the treasures of the bo∣som are thrown abroad; you fear no treachery, you are open and con∣fident; you communicate with the same joy you receive instruction, and all is pleasure.

Such were the feelings my youth experienced in the possession of a friend. How often hath the young mind hung enraptured in the asso∣ciation of my friend. The cordiality that then took place was as dear as life. Riper manhood hath retained the whole, though in a graver degree.

I think I hear the Saint reply,

the warmth of our sociability freezes up with declining youth, our cordiality cools as age advances, and our openness of heart decreases, as the frauds of mankind, and dis∣appointments of life, advance upon experience: we grow afraid of the hidden dangers our confidence hath often prompted; and we gra∣dually treasure up in our memories, the lessons of example, and the inferences of experience; which, like the sepulchres of the dead, only remind us how many friends are departed, how many disasters are incident to life, how little dependence there is on man, and how vain is all human confidence in the things of this world.

If such is the consequence of age; if the delightful taste of Friendship passeth away; I will cling to the departing footsteps, I will grasp at the sacred verge, from whence to fall, is to depart from the first, and the finest enjoyment of human life; the only possession on earth, which gives an idea of the communion of angels.

To return to our Saint. He was elected by the Synod of Aln,* 13.8 but reluctant to assume the episcopal dignity, rejected the nomination, and refused to quit his cell and austerities, until Egfrid himself, attended by all the religious and great personages of his realm then present, re∣sorted

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to his island, and on their knees, with tears and supplications, in the name of God, won his consent to take upon him this Episco∣pacy.* 13.9

Thus, after nine years continuance of a solitary life in the Isle of Farne, was this pious man induced to assume an episcopal duty. He was consecrated at York on the 7th day of April, being Easter day, in the year 685, and in the 11th of the reign of King Egfrid. The King was present at this ceremony, with seven Bishops. He was first made Bishop of Hexham, and thence translated to Lindisfarn, in the place of Eata, who was removed to Hexham. On this occasion Egfrid, with the Metropolitan Theodorus, in testimony of their love and reverence for this holy Prelate, gave to the church of Lindisfarn all the land from the walls of the church of St. Peter, in York, to the west gate of the city, and from the same church to the city wall on the south; also the village of Craike, with territories there not less than three miles in cir∣cuit, that the Bishops might have a house of rest as they should pass to

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and from York;* 13.10 and also added Carlisle, with a large district, to this See.

Some short time preceding the consecration of St. Cuthbert, the mo∣nastery of Coldingham was consumed by fire. The religious society of this house consisted of Monks and Nuns,† 13.11 who occupied separate parts of the edifice; but the severities of a devoted life, and the strict rules professed in such societies, were not sufficient to prevent a shameful re∣laxation of discipline, and many gross abuses and enormities took place; insomuch, that the destruction of this stately edifice was regarded as a judgment, for the crimes and pollutions of its inhabitants. The mo∣nastery of Lindisfarn looked upon the event with religious horror, and soon after Cuthbert was made Bishop, he forbid the approach of women to the convent, and even denied them access to the church where the Monks performed their devotions: he caused a small chapel to be erected in a distant plain on the island for the reception of the female sex, from its situation taking the name of Greenchurch. From thenceforth the women were excluded the churches or cemeteries where St. Cuthbert's body rested; and some miraculous punishments are related which at∣tended infringements on this injunction. In the cathedral church at Durham the pavement is distinguished by a cross of black marble, be∣yond which women were not allowed to advance towards the choir.

Cuthbert enjoyed his change of life and dignities but a very short time, for within two years finding his health declining, and his mind being by habit tempered more for solitude and silence than the duties of this high office, he resigned the See, and returned to his cell in Farne,

Page 136

where he survived only two months, yielding his spirit to God on the 20th day of May, 687, in the 53d year of the creation of the See of Lindisfarn, and 37 years after he had assumed the monastic habit at Mailross.* 13.12 His body was brought from Farne to be interred at Holy Island, where his remains were deposited with great funeral pomp, first in the cemetery of the old church, and afterwards on the right side of the high altar, on the cathedral's being rebuilt: and for his exemplary piety and virtue, the church enrolled him in the table of Saints.† 13.13

On St. Cuthbert's death, Wilfrid Bishop of Hexham held the See of Lindisfarn for one year only: he was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS IX.

Eadbert, a learned man of exemplary life and piety, and of a most humane and charitable disposition. His custom was to remit all tithes to the poor. He re-erected the church of Lindisfarn, and covered it

Page 137

[figure]
LINDISFARN
with lead; of which edifice the present remains have been described in page 111, &c. He held the See ten years, and departing this life in the year 698, was interred near St. Cuthbert's body.* 13.14

EPISCOPUS X.

Egfridth, or, as some authors write him, Eadfrid next possessed the See, a Monk of Lindisfarn, one of the most learned men of his time.† 13.15

Page 138

He translated the Gospels into Latin; which work after his death was highly decorated by his successor with gold and jewels: Bilfrid, an Hermit, illuminated it with various paintings and rich devices; and Adred, a Priest, interlined it with a Saxon version. This curious work is now deposited in the British Museum, in the Cottonian collection.* 13.16 Under this learned Prelate's patronage, the venerable Bede wrote the Life of St. Cuthbert. Bede presumed to remonstrate to his friend, for his neglect of the duties of his high office; for though he had, early after his coming to the See, through his high veneration of the memory of St. Cuthbert, repaired and beautified his little oratory on Farne,† 13.17 yet he did not so closely follow his exemplary life, as Bede conceived he should have done for the honour of religion; whereupon he took upon him to dictate manners to the Prelate. The letter wrote on this occa∣sion, was said to be the means of Egfridth's attending more strictly to his studies; and from that time he translated a great part of the Gospels into the Saxon language, for the easier communication to the people. Bede's maxims were, I doubt not, well adapted to the age; and they still are not insignificant to the Prelates of more modern and learned times. The subjects of this expostulation, were chiefly the importance of a Bishop's duty, and the greatness of the charge which he had as∣sumed: he entreated him to recognize the divine commission, as being the ordination of the great missionary of heaven: that he should re∣buke the proud in the vanity of their high station, and instruct them in the duties of humiliation: that they should not erect churches for the sake of popular admiration and worldly honour, but as works of piety only, for the propagation of religion and virtue: that he should visit his Clergy, and reprove or lop off those branches which were contami∣nated

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with the vices of the age: and that his leisure hours should be appropriated to acts of devotion and study, and not sacrificed to plea∣sures, luxuries, and indolent ease. Egfridth was Bishop for 24 years: he departed this life in 721, and was buried at Lindisfarn.

EPISCOPUS XI.

Ethelwold Abbot of Mailross succeeded to this Bishopric.* 13.18 He was an intimate friend of St. Cuthbert. His episcopacy was famed for the abdication of King Ceolwolfe,† 13.19 who quitted the throne, to take upon him the monastic habit at Lindisfarn, where he died A. D. 764. His body, after some years sepulture, was translated to Norham; and from thence his head was removed to the cathedral church in Durham.‡ 13.20 Ceol∣wolfe gave great possessions to the See of Lindisfarn.§ 13.21 Ethelwold made

Page 140

a ponderous crucifix of stone, inscribed with his name, which after∣wards attended the body St. Cuthbert in its journeyings. This is re∣marked by Historians to be the first crucifix that was erected in the diocese: it was brought to the cathedral of Durham with the remains of St. Cuthbert, and placed in the century yard. This Prelate died in the year 740, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XII.

Cynewolf, who was elected the same year. His episcopacy was at∣tended with innumerable troubles: King Egbert accused him of being accessary to the death of Offa,* 13.22 a person of the royal line, who had taken refuge in the church of St. Cuthbert.† 13.23 Some authors say, that his refusing to give up the assassin gave the suspicion of his being privy to the crime. The Bishop was imprisoned at Bebbanburgh, now called Bambrough, where he remained in close durance for a considerable time. After his restoration, being exhausted with age and affliction, he re∣signed the See, and died A. D. 783, having spent the latter days of his life in acts of the strictest piety and devotion.‡ 13.24

Page 141

EPISCOPUS XIII.

Higbald, who had officiated during Cynewol's imprisonment, suc∣ceeded to the See. During his episcopacy, on the 7th of June, 793,* 13.25

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the Barbarians from the north made a descent upon this island, and not only seized the cattle, but also destroyed the monastery, pillaged the church, and inhumanly butchered many of the inhabitants; among whom several of the Ecclesiastics fell. These heathens rejoiced in de∣filing the sacred things, overturning the altars, and spoiling the hal∣lowed shrines of their relics and ornaments. They were not informed of the chief treasure, the body of St. Cuthbert, which remained undis∣turbed; and to which, after their retreat, several of the Monks re∣turned. The episcopal seat still continued here for several years after this invasion.* 13.26 All these misfortunes, according to the legends of those days, were some short time before portended to the inhabitants, by dreadful storms of thunder, and a horrid convulsion in the aerial re∣gions; during which fiery serpents were observed flying and winding through the tempest.

The Bishop with some few of the Monks escaped the massacre; and eleven years after this catastrophe, Higbald, having been Bishop 22 years, departed this life in the year 804:† 13.27 to whom succeeded

EPISCOPUS XIV.

Egbert, whose episcopacy furnishes history with nothing memorable, though it continued 18 years.‡ 13.28 He died A. D. 821, and was succeeded by

Page 143

EPISCOPUS XV.

Heathured, who held the See in peace nine years;* 13.29 and to whom succeeded

EPISCOPUS XVI.

Egfrid or Egrid,† 13.30 a personage of noble birth and enlarged mind, strenuous in good works: he greatly contributed to the honour and opulence of the church of St. Cuthbert:‡ 13.31 he built the church of Norham, and dedicated it to St. Peter, St. Cuthbert, and the royal St. Ceolwolf: he gave to the See of Lindisfarn, Gedword, the church and village which he had built at Gainford, and all his possessions between Tyne and Tees, together with his estates at Cliff and Wyckliff in Yorkshire, and Billing∣ham in Heortness. He was Bishop of this See 16 years, departed this life A. D. 845, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XVII.

Eanbert, whose episcopacy, of eight years continuance, affords the Historian no memorable matters. He died in 854, and was succeeded by

EPISCOPUS XVIII.

Eardulf, whose possession of this See is marked with peculiar misfor∣tunes, among which was the second descent of the Danes.§ 13.32 This in∣vasion

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happened in the 17th year of the reign of Osbert King of Nor∣thumberland. By some authors it is ascribed to the resentment of Bruern Brocard, a Northumbrian Nobleman. King Osbert having come to Bruern's castle in his absence, was most courteously received and en∣tertained by his Lady, of whom he became enamoured; and in defi∣ance of all the principles of humanity, hospitality, and justice, con∣strained her to receive his embraces. Bruern on his return being in∣formed of the irreparable injury and disgrace he had sustained by this royal rape, went to court, attended by his kindred and dependents, and solemnly renounced his allegiance, and the lands he held of the King: then taking his passage immediately to Denmark, he fell at the feet of King Guthred, to whom Bruern was related, describing his injury in such pathetic terms, and uttering his grief with that energy, that the Danish Monarch readily hearkened to his requests, fitting out a power∣ful fleet and great army for the coasts of Northumberland, under two Generals who were brothers, Inguar and Hubba. Matthew of Westmin∣ster says, the principle view of this Danish expedition, was against the dominions of Edmund King of the East Angles, who was falsly charged with putting to death the father of the Danish chieftains, who had been assassinated by an exiled traitor. They had proposed to land, this au∣thor says, on the coasts of Edmund's kingdom, but by contrary winds being driven northwards, they landed at Berwick upon Tweed. The convent of Coldingham having been restored after a former conflagration, was then possessed, it is said, by Nuns, under an Abbess called Ebba, of royal blood. She dreading the barbarities these invaders exercised in their former descent, on all ranks of religious, in an assembly of her Nuns representing the hazard their chastity was in, communicated a device which she presumed would preserve them from these violators. Without hesitation they vowed that her rules should be strictly observed. Forthwith she drew out a razor, and as an example, with the greatest fortitude, cut off her nose and upper lip: she was followed by the whole sisterhood. When the Danes entered the convent in the morning, they were shocked with the horrid spectacle, and disappointed in their lusts, set fire to the edifice, wherein the Abbess with all her whole convent

Page 145

were consumed.* 13.33 This is the story of Matthew of Westminster; but other authors,† 13.34 whose relations are attended with greater probability, fix the place of this Danish descent at the mouth of the Humber, from whence the invaders marched to York. Osbert at their approach led forth a powerful army, and engaged them near the city, where he fell amongst the slain, and his troops were totally routed. Aella, who had held a conflict of five years for the kingdom of Northumberland with Osbert, under the support of Bruern and his allies, is said upon the Da∣nish invasion to have come to a compromise with Osbert, and joined with him against the common enemy; and that in the battle, he also fell with Osbert. This account gains greater credit than that of Bruern's application to the Danes; and it seems most probable, the object of this invasion was no other than rapine and plunder. The Danes after this victory, having laid waste the country between York and the Tyne, made Egbert King of Northumberland, north of Tyne, to hold his Crown as their dependent: Being afterwards employed in expeditions against the southern parts of this island, the Northumbrians dethroned this vassal King, and gave the Crown to Ricsig. Not long after this the Danish King embarking his troops in some of the southern counties, sailed for the mouth of Tyne, and landed at the town of Tynemouth, where he wintered, it being too late in the year to attempt any thing against the Northumbrians. On the opening of the spring they began their ravages on this unfortunate country, and marked their progress with unequalled barbarities: Lindisfarn was the object of their peculiar wrath—the christian religion their most inveterate aversion.‡ 13.35 The Bishop of Lin∣disfarn,

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with Eadred the Abbot, on the approach of the Danes, left the island, carrying with them the remains of St. Cuthbert, and the most valuable of their riches and sacred things. This desertion of the mo∣nastery of Lindisfarn happened in the 22d year of Eardulf's episcopacy, 241 years after the foundation of the See by Oswald and Aidan, and 189 years after the death of St. Cuthbert. These Ecclesiastics flying from the fury of the invaders, wandered from one hiding-place to another with their hallowed burthens, of which even the stone crucifix of Ethel∣wold made a part, for seven continued years: at length resting at Chester-le-street, in the county of Durham.* 13.36

With the sacred remains of the Saint, the Bishopric was removed from this island to Chester; and whilst settled there, this Bishop, A. D. 883, annexed thereto the vacant Bishopric of Hexham, which had been with∣out a Pastor 63 years, from the time of Tidfrith's resignation. Eardulf continued the remainder of his episcopacy at Chester in peace, and died in the year 900, having been Bishop 46 years.

Page 147

Soon after the desertion of Lindisfarn, the monastery was destroyed, and the church dismantled: but afterwards there was a cell of Bene∣dictine Monks established here, who were subordinate to the Priory of Durham. The annual revenues were valued at 48l. 18s. 11d. by Dug∣dale, and 60l. 5s. by Speed. 26 King Henry VIII. in the 33d year of the same reign, the possessions were granted to the Dean and Chapter of Durham.* 13.37

There is a legendary tale, that Guthred received from St. Cuthbert a singular mark of protection, on an invasion of the Scots, who had in their progress trampled on the remains of several religious houses, and threatened the utter demolition of Lindisfarn. When the Scotch army was drawn up in array, and ready for action, the earth opened, and in an instant swallowed their tens of thousands.† 13.38

As the future succession of Bishops is in no wise pertinent to this work the See of Lindisfarn being translated from this island, and never re∣settled there, I must take my leave of that rich and powerful episcopacy; but cannot refrain mentioning some few circumstances which happened to the wandering bones of Cuthbert.

In 995, the Danes again afflicting the Clergy, who had been settled at Chester for near a century, they took up the holy relics, and fled with them to Ripon in Yorkshire: where remaining till the ravagers again quitted the country, and presuming it a proper season for their return to Chester, on their way, by a miraculous power, they were stayed at Wardelaw, a hill near the sea coast, within about eight miles of Durham, where, in a vision, Eadmerus, one of their pious attendants, had a revelation, that at Dunhelmus the sacred relics should rest for ever: a situation fortified by nature, being a lofty eminence, surrounded by the river Wear, overgrown with a thick entangled grove, in the

Page 148

center of which was an open though concealed plain of cultivated land, which offered its sequestered bosom for their religious repose.* 13.39

The remains of St. Cuthbert rested here till the year 1069, when the the Northumbrians with other northern powers rebelling against the Norman King William, he entered the city of Durham, and laid it waste

Page 149

with fire and sword; the church being miraculously preserved by the sudden springing up of an eastern breeze.* 13.40 Such was the horrid devas∣tation made on this occasion, that the whole territories of York and Durham are said to have lain waste and uncultivated for nine years.† 13.41

The Ecclesiastics hearing of his horrid approach from York, fled from the enraged sword of the Conqueror, and sought the island of Lindis∣farn as their refuge, bearing with them the holy relics of their Saint. They rested the first night at Gyrum or Jarrow, the second at Belinghum, the third at Inghala, now Ellingham; and now preparing to pass over to the island, at the approach of night, they found the tide at height, and the sea, which flows over the neck, in width about half a league, which intersects Lindisfarn from the main land, was then impassable. The severity of the season, it being midwinter, and the perils of the night greatly distressed the Ecclesiastics: but to their tears and prayers, the God of Nature, through his abundant favour to the pious adhe∣rents of the Saint, reverted his ordinary rules; and behold the sea fled backwards, and gave passage to the holy labourer's dry foot. The Saint's bones rested a very short time; for on the re-establishment of peace, on the 8th of April, 1070, the sacred remains were restored to the church of Durham, where they have since rested, and will rest for ages.‡ 13.42

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The catalogue of holy remains which Symeon says were translated from Lindisfarn with the body of St. Cuthbert, is not unworthy obser∣vation: The head of the holy Martyr St. Oswald.—Part of the bones of St. Aidan, who founded the monastery; the rest being carried away by Colmannus into Scotland.—The bones of Eadbert, Eadfride, and Ethelwold. —To these, from Leland's Collect. we must add, the remains of Eata, Ceoluuiphus, and Oildiauldus, an Anchorite.

Aidan's monastery at its foundation was under the government of the Bishops, and his Ecclesiastics, of the cathedral Clergy.

In the year 941, this island suffered greatly by the ravages of war.* 13.43 In 1061, under Malcolm King of Scotland, the inhabitants were again distressed.† 13.44

In the treaty entered into by King Stephen with David I. King of Scotland, A. D. 1139, when the Earldom of Northumberland was set∣tled on Prince Henry, David's son, it was especially excepted, that the power of the Prince should in no wise extend to the lands of St. Cuth∣bert, or those of St. Andrew in Hexhamshire.

Page 151

Holy Island was the retreat of William de Sancta Barbara: during part of the time, William Cuming, Chancellor of King David I. of Scot∣land, held the See and Castle of Durham, in confidence that by the support and influence of his Sovereign and many confederate Barons of the Bishopric, he should obtain his election to the See. William on the 18th of October, A. D. 1144, was installed Bishop, after Cuming had held possession near four years.* 13.45

We continued upon the island so long, in reviewing these venerable remains, as almost to forget we had yet to visit many scenes in this county, as worthy the observation of the Antiquarian and Traveller, as those present to us: and we calculated our departure so ill, that the tide had begun to return, before we entered upon the sands. We thought ourselves secure indeed against all dangers, by having a Farmer from the neighbouring shore for our guide, who had brought over butter that morning for the inhabitants. The tide approached in a singular manner, not flowing forward in waves, but the water increased imperceptably, by oozing through the sands. At first the passage seemed a tract of wet sand, but presently it became a shining plain of level water, unruffled by any influx, reflecting in the most beautiful manner the variegated landskips of the adjoining shores. Our guide rode upon one of those methodical beasts, which keeps up an invariable motion with a kind of mechanical exactness, in spite of every approaching emergency. We expressed our anxiety at the increasing waters, yet not daring to leave our guide, on account of the intercepting gullies, and the apprehension of quicksands, of the situation and nature of which we were totally ignorant. He was unaltered, except in his dialogue, which now was filled with the circumstances of a late Traveller's death, who perished in the passage, wandering on the sands till he could not extricate himself from the surrounding floods. This was no pleasing narrative to us, who were now dashing through the increasing waters, up to our horses girths; our guide's constancy of countenance and un∣moved mind affording us no very agreeable contemplation. I wish to prevent strangers engaging in so disagreeable a project, tho' ours was attended with no other circumstances than anxiety and impatiency of mind; yet had we attempted to make this passage without a guide, it is impossible to determine what would have been our lot.

Page 152

At some little distance we viewed

HAGGERSTON,

covered with a fine grove. Here is an old tower, memorable for being the place where King Henry II. A. D. 1311, received the homage of Thomas Earl of Lancaster. This is an ancient mansion of the family of Haggerstons, whose possession we find recorded in the escheats of King Edward I. the present proprietor Sir Carnaby Haggerston.* 13.46

The church of

KYLOE

graces the distant prospect.† 13.47 Kyloe the residence of Eustace de Kiley, in the reign of King Edward I.

FENWICK and BEAL

were also in view; the latter of which places, it is said, was for some time honoured by the residence of, and takes its name from, the fa∣mous Irish female Saint Begogh.‡ 13.48

We approached

BELFORD,

a small town, not seated in the most fertile spot in Northumberland, the country being open and unsheltered. The mansion of Abraham Dixon, Esq a modern structure of Pane's architecture, surrounded with pleasure grounds and young plantations, greatly ornament the scene; but the situation is far from eligible, there being none of that rural variety, that elegant simplicity, or its reverse, those wildnesses in nature, which

Page 153

constitute a pleasing country prospect. The hills rise tamely, the in∣closures are large and ill wooded, the hamlets are very distantly scat∣tered, and nothing appears singular or attracting upon the whole view, but the Castle of Bambrough and the sea which forms the horizon. Bel∣ford was the property of a family of Hepburns, in the reign of King Henry V.

We passed from Belford to

BAMBROUGH,

by Budle, once the possession of the family of Bowes of Streatlam. Near Budle, at a place called Spindleston,* 13.49 is a Danish camp, circular in form, and fortified with a triple ditch and vallum. Two mounts are seen from it, which appear to be out-posts, and not Tumuli as some writers have conjectured. To the westward is another intrenchment, which forms a crescent, and seems not to be the work of the same people who had constructed the former fortifications. It is defended by a triple ditch and vallum, the interior vallum composed of uncemented stones, as was the British custom. This commands a look-out to sea, and has in view the castles of Bambrough and Holy Island. Opposite to this for∣tification is a square camp, apparently Roman, called Ulchester. The manor of Budle was formerly a member of the Barony of Wooler, and was the possession of Sir Robert de Ulchester, as appears by the escheats of King Edward I. It was forfeited on the attainder of its late owner, Lord Derwentwater, and now makes a part of the appropriations of Greenwich Hospital.

Within a mile lies

EDERSTON,

the seat of the late John William Bacon Forster, Esq which descended to him on the extinction of the right line of the family of Forsters, who possessed it for many ages.† 13.50

Page 154

We now reached the

CASTLE of BAMBROUGH,

whose venerable remains give the traveller an idea of the state of pa∣laces and strongholds, in the remotest aera of our Saxon ancestors in Bri∣tain. The scite of this fortress is on the crown of a high rock, trian∣gular in figure, one of the points projecting into the sea. Many of the buildings stand on the very brink of the rocks, to the land side: the aspect towards the sea is very lofty, being near 150 perpendicular feet above the level of low water mark. Part of the most ancient fortifica∣tions on the land side are broken and defaced, by the falling of the cliffs on which they were erected, the same consisting of a soft red stone, which perishes much by the weather. On this side a circular tower remains, of very antique construction, its base projecting in se∣veral tiers. Many of the other buildings appear to be the work of more modern ages, till you approach the gate-way, which is on the only ac∣cessible part of the rock; it was defended by a deep ditch, cut through a narrow neck communicating with the main land, having a draw bridge: this lays to the south-east, and on the brink of the precipice above the sea shore. The gate-way is strengthened by a round tower on each side, from whence passing about 12 paces, which space appears to have been formerly a covered way, you approach a second and machicolated gate, of a much more modern order of building, having a port-culice. After you have passed the second gate, on the left hand, on a lofty point of the rock, stands a very ancient round tower, of great strength, commanding the pass. Assailants having won this approach, entered upon a situation of imminent danger on a tremendous precipice, sub∣ject to every kind of annoyance from the besieged, who possessed the round tower. This part of the fortress wears the most ancient coun∣tenance, and challenges the Saxons for its origin. The ingenious Mr

Page [unnumbered]

[figure] depiction of Bambrough Castle
BAMBROUGH CASTLE

Page 155

Grose says,

this is the spot where, according to the Monkish Histo∣rians, stood the castle or palace of the Kings of Northumberland; built, as it said, by King Ida, who began his reign A. D. 559. Part of the present ruins are by some supposed to be the remains of King Ida's work.
On the whole, though there was undoubtedly a for∣tress or palace here in the Saxon times, and perhaps earlier, every part of the present buildings, seems to have been the work of the Normans.
On what circumstances Mr Grose grounds this general determination, I cannot discover: most of the northern Norman struc∣tures are of excellent masonry; the buildings here are various in figure, materials, modes of arching, windows, bases, and other parts. The round tower I have noted is different in all those matters, from the greatest part of the works; and it is to a common observer marked with much greater antiquity than the Keep or main tower, which I shall next describe. It is impossible to prevent a disagreement in opinion on subjects of this kind; where there is no certain rule to fix determi∣nation, it must be the case: I pay the greatest deference to Mr Grose's judgment, but think he has passed this determination hastily. The Keep or chief tower of this fortress is a lofty square structure, of the same model with many Norman fortresses founded in or near the time of the Conqueror; it stands on the crown of the rock, having an open area round it, but most extensive towards the north and north-east points. Mr Wallis says, that from the stile of the architecture of its base, being of the Doric order, it is believed to be of Roman work. He adds,
that it is well known the Saxons erected their castles when they could on Roman foundations, and gave them the name of Burg or Brough.
It is very probable the Romans held this part of the country, to be of singular importance to their navy; but that they built castles here, is not by any means admissible. They might erect small towers, like those whose remains appear on the wall of Severus, on places of special import. I do not doubt the Saxons would enter upon the Roman for∣tifications, for the same reasons the Normans after them made such choice: the northern counties furnish a multitude of instances that the Normans possessed themselves of such situations; but in those places the Roman vallum and foss only served for outworks to the Nor∣man structures. The remains of the Roman station are visible at many of those fortresses. In most of the places I have observed, the Roman works are retained as a platform or outward area, to the south sides of the castles. In the northern stations, of the largest size, there are no re∣mains of castles. Whether the Saxons or Normans entered upon those

Page 156

places, I do not presume to determine. The scite of the Praetorium is to be traced in many, but without any other appearances, than of erections for domestic uses, not shewing a sufficient quantity of ruins, to give the least idea of a decayed castle. Mr Grose says,

some assert the Keep to have been a Roman structure, for which supposition they give the following reasons; its great similarity to the Keep of Dover Castle, and the White Tower of London, both allowed to be Roman —the shape of its arches, which are either flat or semicircular—a Doric base round its bottom, and the great depth of its well, sunk 75 feet, through a whinstone rock.—The first of these is evidently founded on a mistake, neither the White Tower nor the Keep of Dover Castle being Roman, but built since the conquest; the last in the time of King Henry II. proofs of which are to be met with in Dugdale's Monasticon, the Textus Roffensis, and divers other authentic records. Nor is the proof drawn from the shape of its arches more conclusive; semicircular and flat arches are found in almost every building erected before the time of King Henry II. and from the argument deduced from its Doric base, it is not at all wonderful or uncommon, to find the members of Graecian architecture employed in Norman buildings. One instance of this, among many, may be seen at the cathedral of Canterbury, where a massive column, placed in the under-croft, to support some vast weight, has a rude sort of Ionic capital. Besides it is well known most of the architects of those days learned their art at Rome, where they had the Graecian architecture continually before them; of which indeed the Saxon was only a debased kind. After the stupendous works carried on by our Norman ancestors, it seems extraordinary, that the digging of the above-mentioned well should appear so arduous an undertaking, as to be deemed possible to the Romans only. Besides, in Beeston Castle, Cheshire, there is a well full as deep, cut through the solid rock: and that is universally known to be the work of the Normans.

The following remarks, extracted from the same work, will not be unacceptable to the reader:

The stones with which the Keep or great tower is built, are remarkably small, and were taken from a quarry three miles distant. From their smallness it has been conjectured they were brought hither on the backs of men or horses. The walls to the front are 11 feet thick, but the other three sides are only nine. The original roof was placed no higher than the top of the second story. The reason for the side walls being carried so much higher

Page 157

than the roof, might be for the sake of defence, or to command a more extensive look-out, both towards the sea and land. The tower was however afterwards covered at the top. Here were no chimneys, the only fire place in it was a grate in the middle of a large room, supposed to have been the guard room, where some stones in the middle of the floor are burned red. This floor was all of stone, sup∣ported by arches. This room had a window in it near the top, three feet square, intended to let out the smoke. All the other rooms were lighted by slits or chinks in the walls, six inches broad. The out∣works are built of a very different stone from that of the Keep, being a coarse free stone of an inferior quality, ill abiding the injuries of weather; taken from the rock itself. In all the principal rooms in the outworks there are chimneys, particularly in the kitchen, which measures 40 feet by 30 feet, where there are three very large ones, and four windows; over each window is a stone funnel, like a chim∣ney open at the top, intended as it is supposed to carry off the steam. In a narrow passage near the top of the Keep was found upwards of 50 iron heads of arrows, rusted together into a mass; the longest of them about 7½ inches. In December 1770, in sinking the floor of the cellar, the draw well was accidentally found: its depth is 145 feet, cut through the solid rock, of which 75 feet is of hard whin-stone. In the summer of the year 1773, in throwing over the bank a prodigious quantity of sand, the remains of the chapel were discovered, in length 100 feet. The chancel is now quite cleared, is 36 feet long and 20 feet broad; the east end, according to the Saxon fashion, semicir∣cular. The altar, which has been likewise found, did not stand close to the east end, but in the center of the semicircle, with a walk about it, three feet broad, left for the Priest to carry the Host in procession. The font, richly carved, is also remaining.

This fortress is by Florigelus, Hoveden, and others, attributed to Ida,* 13.51 and by them esteemed nearly cotemporary with the rise of the kingdom of Northumberland: but there are sufficient grounds to believe that there was a fortress here before Ida's time. It is said the ancient name was Bebbanborough, which Camden, from Bede's authority, imagines was

Page 158

borrowed from a Queen Bebba: but the author of the additions to Camden is of a contrary opinion, as in the Saxon authorities it is called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, implying the royal mansion.* 13.52 Ida by some authors is said to have fortified the rock with a wooden palisado; but others mention his removing the wooden pale and erecting a wall in its place. On the conversion of the Saxons, the chapel, of which the ruins have been lately discovered, was erected within the walls, and dedicated by King Oswald to St. Aidan. Hoveden, who wrote about the year 1192, says,

Bebba is a very strong city, but not exceeding large; contain∣ing not more than two or three acres of ground. It has but one hol∣low entrance into it, which is admirably raised by steps. On the top of the hill stands a fair church; and in the western point is a well, curiously adorned, and of sweet clean water.
† 13.53

It is admitted by all writers that Bambrough is of great antiquity, and was a fortress of singular consequence and strength in the early times of the Saxons. It has furnished history with many memorable events.

Penda King of Mercia, still remaining a Pagan, breathed the most in∣veterate hatred against the Christians: having obtained a victory over King Oswald in Shropshire, in which he treated the royal captive with the most savage barbarity, like a whirlwind he rushed to the destruction of his country. In the year 642, having ravaged Northumberland as far as Bambrough, he laid siege to it, and not being able to take the place by storm, attempted to burn it, by raising huge piles of wood against the walls, and setting them on fire; but when his machines were fully prepared, and his piles were burning, the wind suddenly changed, and blowing a storm, the blazing faggots were carried into his camp, and

Page 159

made a great destruction, insomuch that he was obliged to raise the siege. This deliverance was ascribed, according to the superstition and bigotry of those times, to the prayers of Aidan Bishop of Lindisfarn, who for the sake of greater retirement, and an uninterrupted devotion, was then resident on the Farn Island, afterwards famous for the cell of St. Cuthbert. Oswald's great zeal for the conversion of his people, his bounties to the church, and his suffering under the hand of a Pagan conqueror, procured him the immortal honours of a Saint and Martyr. His arms were preserved as relics in the church at Bambrough, and were believed to remain uncorrupted, through the influence of a blessing pronounced on them by Aidan, whilst doing a singular act of charity.* 13.54

After the death of Alfred, who had reigned over Northumberland near 20 years, the Crown was usurped by Eardulph, to the prejudice of Osred, Alfred's eldest son, then an infant of the age of eight years. As this act of Eardulph's portended imminent peril to the young Prince, Brithrick, a zealous adherent to Alfred and his family, seized the castle of Bam∣brough, where he placed Osred. It was not long before the Usurper laid siege to the place; but it was so well defended, as to baffle all his at∣tempts, and his assaults were attended with a succession of ill fortune. Whilst Eardulph remained before the walls, the people in general de∣clared for Osred, and having levied a considerable army, advanced to∣wards the Usurper, who being informed of this unexpected change in the sentiments of the people, prepared to raise the siege and draw off his troops. Brithrick at this instant made a vigorous sally, the adversaries were thrown into confusion and soon routed, Eardulph was taken pri∣soner, and immediately executed, and Osred ascended the throne of his ancestors, to the great joy of his subjects.

Page 160

This was the place of Alured's retirement, when he fled from York, to avoid the dangers of civil commotion, having in the ninth year of his reign been deserted by his family and nobles. He was descended of Ida, but through the misery of those times obliged to abdicate the throne of Northumberland, and seek for safety under Cynoth King of the Picts.

In the reign of King Egbert this castle was the prison of Cynewolf Bishop of Lindisfarn: his imprisonment began in 750, and continued for 30 years, being accused as an accomplice in a crime, of which some authors assert he was innocent.

According to Florence of Worcester, Alred, the son of Eardulph, whom Athelstan expelled, (on the death of Sititric, who married Athelstan's sister, and was by him raised to the Northumbrian throne) in the year 926 seized this fortress, and made himself master of the dependent ter∣ritories, but was soon forced to fly before the arms of Athelstan.

In the descent made by the Danes about the year 933, this fortress suffered greatly, but was soon afterwards restored, and new works were added. It is said a great booty fell into the hands of these invaders, by the reduction of Bambrough.

Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, in his declining years, was disturbed by an incursion of the Scots, under Malcolm their King: he retired to this fortress, whilst his son Uchtred, a valiant youth, raised a few troops to oppose the army of the invader. He gained an advantageous post, and with great bravery made such an attack upon the undisciplined Scots, that they were soon thrown into confusion, and after suffering a dreadful slaughter, made an inglorious conclusion of their invasion, by a precipitate retreat into their own country. Uchtred did not conduct his success with temperance; he sullied his victory with cruelty, inhu∣manly slaughtering in cold blood, the nobility and officers of rank which were among his prisoners, their heads becoming the horrid fur∣niture of the walls of Durham. King Ethelred overlooked this barba∣rity, and rewarded his valour by giving him in marriage his daughter Edgiva, with a princely portion; his father resigning his possessions to the young hero, the King added thereto the county of York. The sa∣vage barbarity of those times is shocking to humanity; there was sel∣dom a victory obtained in the reciprocal depredations made on the

Page 161

borders, but the utmost cruelty and undistinguished slaughter was the consequence. The warfare itself was infamous; for it was no better than robbing by a Banditti commanded by Kings, who sullied the lustre of a Crown by impious acts which will for ever remain ignomi∣nious in story.

In the year 1015, the Danes again besieged and took this place, and pillaged it.* 13.55

Bambrough is said to have been in good repair at the time of the conquest, when it is probable it was put into the custody of some trusty Norman, and had additions made to the works; as the present area contained within its walls measures upwards of eight acres, instead of three, as described by Hoveden† 13.56

Whilst Malcolm King of Scotland was carrying his horrid ravages along the banks of Tees, Gospatric made an incursion into Cumberland, which the Scottish King then held by force of arms; and having laid waste the country, he returned to Bambrough loaden with spoils: but this was succeeded by a severe revenge, for Malcolm soon after entered Northumberland, and after cruel depredations, carried with him a mul∣titude of the inhabitants into slavery.‡ 13.57

In the reign of William II. A. D. 1095, on the defection of Mowbray Earl of Northumberland, the royal troops laid siege to Bambrough, under the command of the Sovereign, the Earl having taken refuge there. The King finding the place impregnable, to distress the garrison, and cut off all succours of men and provisions, he erected a fortress in the neighbourhood, according to the art of war practised in those days, which was named Malvoisin, or the bad neighbour, in which he placed a strong garrison, and drew off the main body of his army southward. The Earl by means of a secret correspondence held with some of the

Page 162

garrison of Newcastle, had entertained hopes of making himself master of that place: with that intent, under covert of the night, he set out from Bambrough, accompanied by 30 horsemen, but being observed by the garrison of Malvoisin, was pursued. When he arrived at Newcastle, he found the gates shut against him, and the garrison apprized of his intention: he was now reduced to the necessity of flying to the monastery of St. Oswin at Tynemouth, where he was besieged six days, and received a wound in his leg; at length he and his followers having retired to the sanctuary, in defiance of the holy prescription, were dragged forth, and delivered up prisoners to the King.* 13.58 His wife, with one Morael, his kinsman and Lieutenant, still held out against the besiegers, and kept the castle of Bambrough, in defiance of every assault, and every device then practised in sieges. The King, wearied with this unsuccessful procedure, led forth his prisoner before the walls, and threatened in∣stantly to put out his eyes, and give him up to torture, if the garrison did not surrender. Morael, overcome by the threatening calamity which impended on the head of his Lord, capitulated; and for his bravery and singular fidelity, the King pardoned his offences, and took him into favour; at the same time sparing the Earl's life, committing him prisoner to the castle of Windsor.† 13.59

Page 163

In the next reign it was intrusted by King Henry I. to Eustace Fitz-John, who was dispossessed of it and his other employments by King Stephen, jealous of his attachment to Maud, daughter of King Henry I.

Page 164

Irritated at this injury, Fitz-John attached himself to David King of Scotland, and levied a great force from his barony of Alnwick, with which he openly joined the Scotch invader. They marched towards Bambrough, and made a regular attack; but so far from being able to possess the place, they only forced an outwork, which had been lately erected, and put to the sword about 100 of the defenders, by whose re∣proachful speeches they were irritated to the assault. After destroying the corn, hamlets, and erections in the adjacent country, they marched southward; and in the county of Durham being joined by a large body

Page 165

of forces from Galloway and Cumberland, with King David at their head, they advanced to Northallerton, and soon after were defeated at the battle of the standard.

In the conditions of peace made between King Stephen and King David I. of Scotland, it was stipulated, that the earldom of Northum∣berland should be conclusively settled on Prince Henry, David's son, with all its appendages, except Bambrough and Newcastle, which the English Monarch was to retain on Henry's receiving a compensation by lands in the south of England. All the Barons within this earldom did homage to Prince Henry for their estates, with a salvo for the fealty they had sworn to King Stephen, it having also been premised, that the laws and customs established by King Henry I. in Northumberland should remain in force. This treaty was ratified at Durham, in the month of April, A. D. 1139, in the presence of Maude Queen of Eng∣land and a great assembly of the Barons of both nations; and there∣upon the King of Scotland and his son entered into compact for the maintenance of peace with England during their lives; for the observ∣ance of which Cospatric Earl of March, Hugh de Morvill, Fergus Mel and Mac were given as hostages.

King Henry II. in the third year of his reign, had restored to him, by Malcolm IV. King of Scotland, the northern territories which King Stephen had granted to David King of Scotland: and therewith King Henry was put in possession of the city of Carlisle, the castle of Bam∣brough, and Newcastle upon Tyne. It is presumed by some authors, that David having taken advantage of the broils in which King Ste∣phen was involved, had seized the castle of Bambrough; as in the treaty when the earldom of Northumberland was resigned to Prince Henry, this fortress and Newcastle were expressly reserved to the Crown of England.

In the 16th year of King Henry the Second's reign, some great work seems to have been added to this fortress, as in Madox's History of the Exchequer, under the article of Amercements, it appears one William, son of Waldef, was fined five marks for refusing his assistance in the King's works at Baenburg Castle: he was fined also 40s. to have a re∣spite touching the said works. Perhaps at this time the Keep was built; its great similarity to that of Dover, the work of that reign, makes it at least probable.* 14.4

Page 166

In the time of King Richard I. Hugh Bishop of Durham held this castle, but his power was of short date; for the King being offended at his insolence, disseized him of this place, together with the county of Nor∣thumberland, and imposed on him a fine of 2000 marks.

William Heron, son of Jordan Heron, who held a barony in this county by the service of one Knight's fee, as his ancestors had done from the conquest, was in the 32d year of King Henry III. constituted Governor of Bambrough Castle, and of Pickering and Scarbrough, in Yorkshire: in which appointments he was succeeded in the 37th year of the same reign, by John Lexington, Knt. Chief Justice of the Forests North of Trent.

In 1296, King Edward I. summoned John Baliol, King of Scotland to renew his homage at this castle; but the proud vassal forgetting his fidelity, contemned the command, and levied an army to resist the English arms, if Edward entered his kingdom. Edward burning with indignation at this insolence, marched to Berwick, which he took by storm, and put the garrison to the sword. From thence proceeding to Dunbar, near which place the Scotch army waited his approach, an engagement ensued, in which the English were victorious: the field of battle was covered with innumerable carcasses, 22,000 Scots, some His∣torians assert, fell that day. Dunbar was taken, and Baliol was made prisoner. The great trophy of this victory, was the stone chair in which the Kings of Scotland had been crowned from the earliest times. This was the palladium of the Scotch, the loss of which shook the superstition of the whole empire. This chair was brought in triumph to England, with the King in chains, and was placed in the abbey of Westminster, where it has remained for regal honours ever since—a degree of appro∣priation which nothing but the bigotry and superstition of that age could have decreed to it in England.* 14.5

Isabel de Beaumont, related to Eleanor Queen of Edward I. sister to Lord Henry Beaumont, and widow of John de Vesey, afterwards wife of John Duke of Brabant, had a grant of this castle for her life, on proviso that she did not marry again. During her possession, Piers de Gaveston, Earl

Page 167

of Cornwall, was protected here from the vengeance of an injured and incensed nobility. In 1312, he was dragged from the castle of Scar∣brough, and given up to the hands of his adversaries.

In the year 1311, this castle, on the marriage of the Lady Vesey, was reassumed by government, and given to Lord Percy.* 14.6

In 1355, Earl Murray being taken prisoner by King Edward III. was committed prisoner to this castle, from whence he was removed to Not∣tingham, and lastly to Windsor.

It was held for a short time by Roger Heron, a younger son of William Heron before mentioned; after which it was conferred on Henry Percy, for his good services in the Scotch wars. In this family it continued for several ages, and a grant of this castle, together with the manor and fee farms of the town, was made to his grandson for life. In the reign of King Henry VI. Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, was Constable. During the contention between the King and the House of York, there were divers Governors, according to the party which hap∣pened to be victorious. Sir Ralph Grey and John Lord Wenlock were both of them Constables for Henry VI. the latter in the 25th year of that King: he nevertheless sided with King Edward IV. and served under him at Towton.

In the second year of the reign of King Edward IV. an insurrection of the Lancastrian party appearing in the North, the King advanced to Northumberland, and at once laid siege to the three castles of Alnwick, Dunstanburgh, and Bambrough. Ten thousand forces invested the latter under the command of the Earl of Worcester, the Earl of Arundel, the Lord Ogle, and the Lord Montecute: the Duke of Somerset, the Earl of Pembroke, Lord Roos, and Sir Ralph Percy maintained the fortress until Christmas eve, when it was surrendered. The Lords Pembroke and Roos effected their escape, and the Duke of Somerset and Sir Ralph Percy received the royal pardon. The Queen still struggling against the tor¦rents of adversity, such in the whole, as royalty seldom ever experi∣enced, again made head in Northumberland. Sir Ralph Grey surprized the castle of Bambrough, which was then in the keeping of Sir John Astley; and he garrisoned it with Scotch troops: but the battle of Hex∣ham

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Levels soon put a final end to these commotions, and gave a con∣clusive blow to the hopes of the House of Lancaster. Sir Ralph Grey and Sir Humphrey Nevill were excepted in the general pardon. Nevill soon afterwards suffered at York, but Sir Ralph Grey knowing his perilous estate, held out the castle of Bambrough until July. The Lords Montecute and Warwick conducted the siege. A tower being beat down by the canon, Sir Ralph received such bruizes by its fall, that he was taken up for dead; and the garrison dismayed at the catastrophe, im∣mediately surrendered. It was Sir Ralph's fate to survive the day, and afterwards to suffer death as a traitor at York.

The damages the castle had sustained, were not repaired in that or the succeeding reigns: King Henry VII. and King Henry VIII. both esteemed those castles as places of refuge only for malecontents. From the time of King Edward IV. there is a total suspension of its history. By the escheats of the 10th of Queen Elizabeth, it appears to be in the Crown, with the adjoining castle of Dunstanburgh. Sir John Foster of Bambrough Abbey, was then Governor of this castle. His grandson, John Foster, Esq had a grant of the manor of Bambrough from King James; but in the year 1715, his descendant forfeited, and it was purchased by his uncle, Lord Crew.* 14.7

Page 169

The town of Bambrough is now reduced to a mean village, no traces of its splendour as a royal borough and the seat of Kings remaining. It

Page 170

sent Members to Parliament in the reign of King Edward I.* In King Edward the Third's time it contributed one vessel to the expedition against

Page 171

Calais. The shire of Bambrough is of great extent, containing the ba∣ronies of Bradford, Vicount, and Muschamp, formerly a separate fran∣chise, and possessed of certain immunities and privileges now obsolete.

Page 172

In 1137, during the reign of King Henry I. a Monastery was founded at Bambrough, for Canons Regular of the order of St. Austin, subordi∣nate and as a cell to Nosthell, near Pomfret, in the county of York, valued at the dissolution, by Dugdale at 116l. 12s. 3d. but by Speed 124l. 15s. 7d. The scite of the monastery, with its possessions as par∣cel of St. Oswald of Nosthell, were granted to John Foster, 37 King Henry VIII. as is set forth in Tanner's Notitia, p. 392. King Henry gave the churches of St. Oswald and St. Aidan here to the before∣mentioned priory.

By licence of King Edward II. an Hospital was founded here dedi∣cated to Mary Magdalen.† 14.9

Leland speaks of a fair college a little without Bambrough. This was a religious house founded by King Henry III. for Preaching Friars. Queen Elizabeth, in the second year of her reign, granted the scite to Thomas Reeve and Nicholas Pinder.‡ 14.10

Bambrough was a very extensive Deanery, comprehending a tract from Berwick to Kirk Newton, taking in Norham.

The church of Bambrough is a plain structure; there is no great mark of antiquity in the building; when or by whom it was erected is not known. The church within the castle walls, I presume, had Oswald for its * 14.11

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founder; this edifice seems to be of much more modern date. In a nich in the wall is a recumbent effigy of a Knight Templar, the per∣sonage represented unknown. As these apertures on the building of churches were designed for the tombs of founders or other benefactors, this tomb reduces the antiquity of the church to a late aera; and indeed the whole building has that appearance. Unless we conceive the out∣works of the fortifications of Bambrough were of great extent, it is not reconcileable that this should be the church founded by King Oswald.

There are monuments of the Foster family in this church, but all of inferior date to the before-mentioned grants.* 14.12

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It is necessary in this place to take a particular view of the charity of Lord Crew, who purchased the forfeited estates of the Fosters.* 14.18 It is not arrogant to say, that his bequests have furnished the most exalted degree of charitable distribution, that ever flowed from a private do∣nation in this country.

Lord Crew's will bears date the 24th June, 1720, and he died the 18th of September, in the 88th year of his age, at Stene, the seat of his ancestors, in Northamptonshire. The appropriations which parti∣cularly relate to Bambrough, are the sole objects of my present atten∣tion. I cannot describe them to the reader in more expressive language, than that of the worthy and learned traveller Mr Pennant; from whose works I will select a few sentences.

The castle, and the manor belonging it, was once the property of the Forsters; but purchased by Lord Crew, Bishop of Durham, and with other considerable estates, left vested in Trustees, to be applied to unconfined charitable uses. Three of these Trustees are a majo∣rity:

Page 175

one * 14.19 of them makes this place his residence, and blesses the coast by his judicious and humane application of the Prelate's gene∣rous bequest. He has repaired and rendered habitable the great square tower: the part reserved for himself and family, is a large hall and a few smaller apartments; but the rest of the spacious edifice is allotted for purposes, which make the heart to glow with joy when thought of. The upper part is an ample granary; from whence corn is dispensed to the poor without distinction, even in the dearest time, at the rate of four shillings a bushel; and the distressed, for many miles round, often experience the conveniency of this benefaction.

Other apartments are fitted up for shipwrecked sailors, and bedding is provided for 30, should such a number happen to be cast on shore at the same time. A constant patrol is kept every stormy night along this tempestuous coast, for above 8 miles, the length of the manor, by which means numbers of lives have been preserved. Many poor wretches are often found on the shore in a state of insensibility; but by timely relief, are soon brought to themselves.

It often happens, that ships strike in such a manner on the rocks as to be capable of relief, in case numbers of people could be sud∣denly assembled: for that purpose a cannon † 14.20 is fixed on the top of the tower, which is fired once, if the accident happens in such a quar∣ter; twice, if in another; and thrice, if in such a place. By these signals the country people are directed to the spot they are to fly to; and by this means, frequently preserve not only the crew, but even the vessel; for machines of different kinds are always in readiness to heave ships out of their perilous situation.

In a word, all the schemes of this worthy Trustee have a humane and useful tendency: he seems as if selected from his brethren for the same purposes as Spenser tells us the first of his seven beadsmen in the house of holinesse was.

The first of them that eldest was and best, Of all the house had charge and government, As guardian and steward of the rest: His office was to give entertainment And lodging unto all that came and went:

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Not unto such as could him feast againe, And doubly quite for that he on them spent; But such as want of harbour did constraine; These, for God's sake, his dewty was to entertaine.

That all seamen may be informed of the circumstances of this cha∣rity, a printed account is published under the direction of the Trinity House in Newcastle upon Tyne, and which is subjoined in the notes.* 14.21 It is much to be lamented that this example has not induced the bene∣volent to adopt the plan on the southern coasts: by which many acts of barbarity might be prevented, and valuable lives saved to the public.

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The reader will form a perfect idea of the extent of Lord Crew's charity, in a department distinct from that of seamen under the above description, by the following tables, published in the Newcastle news∣papers.

Annual account of the charitable institution at Bambrough Castle, for the relief of sick and lame Poor, from Oct. 17, 1774, to Oct. 17, 1775.
Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1774 65
Out-patients admitted since 681
In-patients 17
  763
Of these, discharged cured 579
Relieved 81
Inoculated and recovered 9
Dead 9
Remaining on the books 85
  763

Page 178

Account from Oct. 17, 1775, to Oct. 17, 1776.
Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1775 85
Out-patients admitted since 1009
In-patients 26
  1120
Of these, discharged cured 928
Relieved 73
Sent to the Infirmary at Newcastle 4
Dead 9
Remaining on the books 106
  1120
Account from Oct. 17, 1776, to Oct. 17, 1777.
Remaining on the books Oct. 17, 1766 106
Out-patients admitted since 1055
In-patients 27
  1188
Of these, discharged cured 1028
Relieved 59
Sent to the Infirmary at Newcastle 1
Dead 11
Remaining on the books 89
  1188

So extensive a charity, to flow from a private bounty, is singular: men in former ages were canonized for trifling acts of benevolence, compared to this. But although the resources were given by Lord Crew, yet the disposition was not of his arrangement; to the benevo∣lent heart of the Rev. Dr Sharp, the chief part of the blessings derived from his Lordship's will is to be attributed. He resides many months in each year in the castle of Bambrough, superintends the works of charity, has his eye open upon every new channel by which he may give relief or consolation to his suffering fellow-creatures. The shipwrecked and the diseased are comforted by his visitation, and the calamities of life

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are all alleviated by his care. It is an exalted duty; the blessed spirits of heaven are described to us as dispensing the gifts of universal bene∣volence.

In regard to natural strength, there is not a situation in all Northum∣berland equal to that of Bambrough, or one in any wise so well adapted to the ancient rules of fortification. From the great tower there is an extensive sea and land prospect; you overlook the whole group of Farn Islands; you view the castle of Holy Island, which from thence makes a very formidable appearance; and on the more distant peninsula, you discern the town and fortifications of Berwick. On the other side, Dun∣stanborough Castle crowns the nearest cliffs, behind which a winding shore is seen, with many little promontories, creeks, and bays, beauti∣fully mingled, and graced with multitudes of small vessels, laying in their ports or under sail. The extreme point of view is Tynemouth, whose ruined monastery gives an obelisk to terminate the landskip. All the inland prospect gradually inclines towards the sea banks, with many considerable swells, displaying a fine cultivated scene to the eye, varied with innumerable villages and hamlets.

THE FARN ISLANDS

possess little matter of sufficient consequence to tempt a traveller to sea, especially where there is so constant a ripling and breaking of the waves, as is to be found between them and the continent.* 15.1 In the month of

Page 180

August, when we visited the islands, the sea was tumultuous, making a violent inset between them and the main land. They are 17 in num∣ber, the largest and only one we thought worth attending to, is the House Island, nearest to Bambrough, where St. Cuthbert made his resi∣dence. Mr Pennant visited them all, and has the following remarks, which, as the work of a very able Naturalist, highly merit a place here.* 15.2

Opposite to Bambrough lie the Farn Islands, which form two groups of little isles and rocks, to the number of 17, but at low water the points of others appear above the surface; they all are distinguished by particular names. The nearest isle to the shore, is that called the House Island, which lies exactly one mile 68 chains from the coast: the most distant is about seven or eight miles. They are rented for 16l. per annum: their produce is kelp, some few feathers, and a few seals, which the tenant watches and shoots, for the sake of the oil and skins. Some of them yield a little grass, and serve to feed a cow or two, which the people are desperate enough to transport over in their little boats.

Visited these islands in a coble, a safe but seemingly hazardous species of boat, long, narrow, and flat-bottomed, which is capable of going through a high sea, dancing like a cork on the summits of the waves.

Touched at the rock called Meg, whitened with the dung of cor∣vorants, which almost covered it; their nests were large, made of tang, and excessively faetid.

Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an island in the farthest group; so called from the vast columnar rocks at the south end, even at their

Page 181

sides, and flat at their tops, and entirely covered with guillemots and shags: the Fowlers pass from one to the other of these columns by means of a narrow board, which they place from top to top, forming a narrow bridge, over such a horrid gap, that the very sight of it strikes one with terror.

Landed at a small island, where we found the female Eider ducks, at that time fitting: the lower part of their nests was made of sea plants; the upper part was formed of the down which they pull off their own breasts, in which the eggs were surrounded and warmly bedded: in some were three, in others five eggs, of a large size, and pale olive colour, as smooth and glossy, as if varnished over. The nests are built over the beach, among the loose pebbles, not far from the water. The ducks sit very close, nor will they rise till you almost tread on them. The drakes separate themselves from the females du∣ring the breeding season. We robbed a few of their nests of the down, after carefully separating it from the tang, found that the down of one nest weighed only three quarters of an ounce, but was so elastic as to fill the crown of the largest hat. The people of this country call these St. Cuthbert's ducks, from the Saint of the islands.

"Besides these kinds, I observed the following.

  • "Puffins, called here Tom Noddies
  • "Anks—here Skouts
  • "Guillemots
  • "Black Guillemots
  • "Little Anks
  • "Shiel Anks
  • "Shags
  • "Corvorants
  • "Black and white Gulls
  • "Brown and white Gulls
  • "Herring Gulls—which I was told sometimes fed on eggs of other birds
  • "Common Gulls—here Annets
  • "Kittiwakes or Tarrocks
  • "Pewit Gulls
  • "Great Terns
  • "Sea Pies
  • "Sea Larks—here Brockets
  • "Jackdaws which breed in rabbit-holes
  • "Rock Pigeons
  • "Rock Larks

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The Terns were so numerous, that in some places it was difficult to tread without crushing some of the eggs.

The last isle I visited was the House Island, the sequestered spot where St. Cuthbert passed the two last years of his life. Here was af∣terwards established a Priory of Benedictines for six or eight Monks, subordinate to Durham. A square tower, the remains of a church, and some other buildings, are to be seen there still; and a stone coffin, which, it is apprehended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the isle is a deep chasm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the sea; through which, in tempestuous weather, the water is forced with vast violence and noise, and forms a fine jet d'eau of sixty feet high: it is called by the inhabitants of the opposite coast, the Churn.

The horrible description given of this island by ancient authors, be∣fore St. Cuthbert blessed it with his presence, is already mentioned.* 15.3 Here the Saint built himself a cell and a small oratory, which he sur∣rounded with a wall that cut off his view from every thing but the heavens: those who visited him, only conversed through a grate, not having access to his presence.† 15.4 In Bede's Life of St. Cuthbert, we are told the Saint's cell was not the only erection upon the island, for there

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was a larger house near the landing place, where the brethren who came to visit him lodged. After the death of St. Cuthbert, Ethelwold, who took on him the religious habit at Ripon, resorted to this hermitage, and possessed it 12 years, ending his life there. Felgild succeeded Ethel∣wold, and in the time of that Hermit, Eadfrid Bishop of Lindisfarn restored from its foundations the oratory of St. Cuthbert, which had gone to ruin. Bede relates, that Felgild was more than 70 years old when he wrote the Life of St. Cuthbert. Besides the persons mentioned by Bede, there were other devotees who chose Farn for the place of their retreat. St. Bartholomew was one, as appears from a manuscript History of his Life in the Bodlean Library, who obtained leave of Lawrence Prior of Durham to go to Farne, where he found one Elwyn in possession of the desirable residence, and whose religion was not suffi∣ciently tempered with charity, to induce him to welcome the stranger. Bartholomew wrote in this retreat his Farne Meditations, now preserved in the Durham Library. Thomas * 15.5 Prior of Durham retired to Farn in the years 1162 and 1163; he had engaged in a controversy with that arrogant Prelate, Hugh Bishop of Durham, touching certain liberties which the Monks of that church prompted him to maintain; and who afterwards deserting him, induced Hugh to procure his deposition.

On the death of Richard Bishop of Durham, sirnamed the Poor, the Monks elected their Prior, Thomas † 15.6 de Melsonby, to the See. The King opposed this election, esteeming him disaffected to his govern∣ment, because he had been Prior of Coldingham, and sworn fealty to the King of Scotland; and there was singular danger in having a Bishop of Durham under any attachment to the King of Scotland, as in right of his See he would possess places of great strength and importance: more particularly he would hold a large tract of sea coast and many havens, where the shipping and troops of France and Flanders might be received. These objections not being esteemed of sufficient impor∣tance to the Monks, for them to renounce their right of election, or fearing new innovations from regal power, they appealed to the See of Rome; but the messengers charged with this matter died in their pas∣sage,

Page 184

and Melsonby being intercepted as he attempted to leave the king∣dom, he resigned his title to the Episcopacy on the 8th of April, A. D. 1240, having contested his claim three years. In the year 1244, the King advancing towards Newcastle with his army, the Prior was struck with new apprehensions of danger, as he dreaded resentment for the conduct he had shewn under his election to the See; consequently he resigned his office of Prior, and retired to Farn Island, where the Hermit Bartholomew then was in occupation of the sacred cell of St. Cuthbert. Here the Prior spent the remainder of his life in devotion and austerities. He was buried in the cathedral church of Durham, among the Bishops; and many miracles were said to be wrought at his tomb.* 15.7

Alexander II. King of Scotland, confirmed by deed to the Monk Henry, and his successors in Farn Island, 8s. sterling, in free alms, to be re∣ceived annually out of the farm of his mill at Berwick, instead of half a chalder of corn, granted to him by the charter of King William.

In commemoration of these examples of religious severity, a Priory was founded here, according to Leland, for six Benedictine Monks, subordinate to Durham, with a revenue of 13 marks from the corpo∣ration of Newcastle. The endowment at the dissolution was estimated at 12l. 17s. 8d. King Henry VIII. in the 33d year of his reign, granted it to the Dean and Chapter of Durham.† 15.8

Page 185

The remains of these edifices are very ragged and confused, and shew little other than marks of severity and inconvenience, notwith∣standing the happy taste which is denoted in the scites of most of the religious houses of the same date. A part of a square tower is stand∣ing, which was built by one Castle,* 15.9 Prior of Durham, in the begin∣ning of the 15th century: part of the priory is also remaining; near which is shewn a stone coffin, intended to have enclosed the hallowed remains of St. Cuthbert.† 15.10

These erections are on the best part of the island; a little lawn skirts the edifices, surrounded with rugged rocks, from whence issues a spring of fresh water. Since the departure of the religious, this island has re∣turned almost to its pristine state: it consists of a few acres in its whole surface, the chief part of which is sand and rock. A scanty herbage takes place indeed in some spots, especially on the little lawn; but there is neither tree or shrub. The shore is rocky, and sounding to the hollow sea which rolls upon it, sends forth a horrid howling: the north-east winds blow fiercely here, and every inclemency of weather known to the climate beats on these inhospitable shores, which are tremendous from frequent shipwrecks.—There is not a coast more likely to give one the idea of shoals of wandering spirits, who visit the semisepulta Ossa, over which they loiter on this side Styx, whilst unfriendly whirlwinds wreck them over with sand, and forbid the funeral rites for which they languish.

We left

ELLINGHAM

on our right hand, the seat of one of the Haggerston family, an ancient barony of the family of Guagy, who possessed it in the time of King

Page 186

Henry I. as appears by the Testa de Nevil: it was afterwards the pos∣session of the Hetons.* 15.11 The church was founded by Ralph de Guagy, in the pontificate of Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham.

We passed through

EMBLETON,

the ancient barony of the family of Viscounts, as is shewn by the escheats of King Edward I. and the Testa de Nevil: it is said afterwards to have become annexed to the Dutchy of Lancaster, and now is the property of the Earl of Tankerville.

Some authors assert, that in this parish was born Duns Scotus,† 15.12 that learned Sectary, and claim for their evidence his manuscript works in

Page 187

Merton College, Oxford, in which is an entry to this effect:

John Duns born in a certain little village or hamlet, within the "parish of Emil∣don, called Dunston, in the county of Northumberland."
In Camden we find his lamentable exit thus mentioned:
But he died miserably, be∣ing taken with an apoplexy, and over hastily buried for dead; whilst upon return of life, nature (though too late) was about to throw off the violence of the disease, (and he making a lamentable noise calling for help) after he had for some time beat his head against his coffin, he dashed out his own brains, and at last yielded up his vital breath.

In our road to Dunstanbrough, we had a view of

ROCK,

a little village, situate on an eminence, commanding a fine prospect. It was a dependent manor, and member of the barony of Alnwick. The family of Rocks possessed it in the time of King Edward I. as ap∣pears by the escheats of that reign.

We now approached the ruins of

[figure]
DUNSTANBURGH
DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE,

which though extensive, have at a distance a ragged and confused ap∣pearance. Nothing remains but the outworks on two sides to the land, viz. the west and south, which with stupenduous cliffs to the sea en∣close

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a plain nearly square, consisting of about nine acres. The Keep and interior works, if there ever were any, are totally gone, the plough-share having passed within the walls.* 15.13 The rocks to the north are per∣pendicular, of a columniary form, about 30 feet in height, black and horrible; the shore rugged, covered with broken rocks woven over with sea-weed. From the edge of the sea cliffs on the north-west point, the western wall runs along the brink of an elevated rock; a square tower arises near the center of this wall, of a considerable height, and of ex∣cellent masonry, placed on a projecting point of the cliff, so as to af∣ford to the armed men within a means of flanking the wall with their missile weapons; on each corner there was an exploratory turret. This seems to be the most modern part of the castle, built of the best mate∣rials, and by the ablest workmen. Where the land rises to the summit of the rock on the south-west point, the wall turns and makes a long straight front to the south, as represented in the plate: the ground be∣fore it is level, and appears to have been assisted by art, to form a more commodious parade for the garrison. In this front there is a gate-way, built in a very remarkable stile, being the great entrance to the castle: it is formed by a circular arch, with a portico and interior gate; is defended by two heavy semicircular towers uniting with the super∣structure of the gate-way: these towers, after rising about 20 feet, and containing two tiers of apartments, support turrets of a square form, now so very rugged and ruinous, as not to allow a conjecture what was their original height. This wall extends to the cliffs on the sea banks, is guarded by two square bastions and a small sally-port, and is termi∣nated by a square tower with a gate-way. On the brink of the cliff to the sea, on this quarter, appear the remains of a very strong wall; indeed it is probable the whole Area was originally so enclosed. The heavy seas which break upon the rocks of the north-west point have torn them much; and it appears as if the area had been originally of greater extent than at present, many separate columns of rock standing near the cliffs, which some ages ago may have been joined to the main land. At the south point of the area is the well: near to the eastern tower are the remains of a chapel. Immediately below this tower is a gully or passage of perpendicular sides, formed in the rocks, about 60 yards in length and 40 feet deep, where the sea makes a dreadful inset, breaking into foam with a tremendous noise: the spray

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occasioned thereby is driven within the castle walls. This place is called by the country people the Rumble Churn. The gulph, from the walls of the tower, which I ascended to obtain the view, has a very awful appearance: you look immediately down upon the abyss, where, as the tide rushes up, the waters are lifted many feet above the common level, rising towards the walls of the tower, as if they would sur∣mount the cliffs and deluge the plain. The breaking of the waves in foam over the extreme point of the rocks, the heavy spray, the noise of the disturbed waters, and the groan which echo returns through the desolated towers, are noble, though tremendous.

The date of this castle is fixed by authors to the beginning of the 14th century, Thomas Earl of Lancaster, General of the confederate army which opposed King Edward II. being said to be the founder. He was also owner of Pomfret Castle, where, after being taken by the King's troops at Burrowbridge, he was imprisoned, and soon after de∣collated as a traitor; though afterwards he was canonized, and the place of his martyrdom took the name of St. Thomas's Hill. He was possessed of immense estates, and was the most powerful and opulent subject in Europe, holding at once the Earldoms of Lancaster, Lincoln, Salisbury, Leicester, and Darby. The King sat personally on his trial, a remarkable circumstance: he died 25th March, 1322, and was buried on the south side of the high altar in the priory church there. Such veneration was paid to his tomb, as the enthusiasts wasted on that of Becket. The King of his royal clemency remitted the severities of his sentence, by which he was condemned to be hanged and quartered, an infamy which seldom had fallen on those of royal descent, he being grandson of King Henry III. But so fluctuating are human affairs, that the ignominious exit of this Earl, gave exalted honours to his name after his death: he was enrolled in the list of Martyrs, was canonized, and his portrait placed among those of sacred memory in the cathedral of St. Paul's.

* 15.14

Page 190

In the succeeding reign, Henry the brother of the Martyr, obtained from parliament a reversion of the attainder, and restitution of the fa∣mily honours and estates. He held great offices in government, was

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one of the guardians of King Edward III. by whom he was created Duke of Lancaster, and on that investiture, had licence to have his chan∣cery within the Dutchy, and issue process there. We do not hear of this fortress being made memorable by any singular conflict, till the unfortunate conclusion of the affairs of King Henry VI. and the total de∣struction of the Rose of Lancaster. Queen Margaret perceiving that the French succours were too inconsiderable to induce the Northumbrians to rise in her favour, made another voyage, and having borrowed a sum of money and gained a reinforcement of 2000 men, in October, 1462, she landed near Bambrough. Her return with those aids did not yet induce the people of Northumberland to take up arms. Through the treachery of Sir Ralph Gray, the castle of Alnwick was surrendered to her. Margaret hearing that King Edward was advancing with a numerous army, found it necessary again to seek refuge in Scotland: to this end she embarked, but a violent storm arising, she was in immi∣nent peril, and at length gained the port of Berwick.* 15.15 Brezè her General,

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with about 500 of his troops, were shipwrecked on Holy Island, where they were all slain or taken prisoners, except Brezè himself, who escaped to the Queen in a fishing-boat. Edward on his arrival in Northumber∣land, finding no enemy in the field, laid siege to the castles of Alnwick, Bambrough, and Dunstanbrough, the latter of which, after holding out a considerable time, was at length taken by storm, and the garrison made prisoners: after which they dismantled this fortress, and as much as possible destroyed the fortifications; since which time it has lain in ruins. It appears by the escheats of Queen Elizabeth, to be in the pos∣session of the Crown in that reign; King James I. granted it to the Grays of Wark, and it is now the possession of Lord Tankerville.

We passed by

CRAISTER,

a neat little mansion, the ancient manor of the family of that name. We find them settled here in the reign of King Edward I. as appears by the escheats * 15.16 of that time.† 15.17

HOWICK

lay to our left, as we passed to Alnwick, one of the ancient members of the Barony of Alnwick, the possession of the family of Greys. We do not trace this family, in ancient records, to be settled here earlier than the reign of King Henry VIII. this being a branch of the ancient Chil∣lingham family.‡ 15.18 The old tower noted by Leland still remains, being

Page [unnumbered]

[figure] depiction of Alnwick Castle
ALNWICK CASTLE

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kept in good repair, and now forming a part of the mansion-house. The church was rebuilt by the 1st Sir Harry Grey, though he was not the patron.

We now gained a sight of the town of

ALNWICK,

and as we approached from the north-east, had a most pleasing prospect of the palace of the Duke of Northumberland,

THE CASTLE OF ALNWICK.

The situation is not naturally elegant, the aspect being rather confined, and the adjacent lands affording no original beauties. The opposite hills rise tamely, and are not yet brought into such order, as to possess artificial graces enough, to conceal the want of that variety and beauty, which a traveller wishes to find surrounding so noble a palace. The woody banks of the Aln, with all the wild romantic scenes which hang upon her borders, are excluded from the prospect. The castle stands upon a fine elevation, rising gradually from the river, whose open banks are turfed and kept in the most exact neatness under the gardener's scythe; but withal, possessing that trim countenance, given by straight lines and angles, level walks, and slopes of a mechanical formality; a

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garb in which nature doth not look the most lovely. The castle is a noble structure, rebuilt on the old foundation, and in the Saxon style; the architect has strictly preserved the whole modes and ornaments of the original: the battlements are crowded with effigies, according to the taste of the Normans, in whose time it underwent a principal repa∣ration: these represent men in the act of defence, wielding such arms as were then used; some of them are disposed with great propriety, the guard of one of the gate-ways is in the attitude of casting down a mighty stone on the heads of assailants. The building is of a beautiful free-stone, in chisel'd work; its form is singular, being composed of a cluster of semicircular and angular bastions. I cannot, without the ichnography of the place, give the reader a more competent idea of its figure, than by comparing it to a section of the clustered Saxon pillar in our cathedrals. This edifice stands in a spacious area, which at the time of its greatest strength, I presume, totally surrounded it, defended by a compleat circumvallation and a moat; otherwise the principal part of the fortress would have lain unguarded by any outwork, except a moat. At present the front is opened to the north-east, and the wall having towers at proper intervals, shuts it in on the other quarters. As we viewed the castle on our approach, the walls with its towers formed a noble flanking to the principal structure: to the southward, the gar∣den grounds appeared prettily disposed; to the north and west, the town of Alnwick was seen spreading on the back ground. We lamented the want of some of those fine woodlands, and lofty grey rocks, which impend over the Aln, above Alnwick, to give rural and romantic graces to objects so imperial, if I may be permitted to use the expression, in distinguishing this noble edifice.

We passed over an elegant stone bridge, on our approach to the town, the battlements formed of interwoven crescents: we found the Inn crowded with people of fortune, come from all parts of the county, to pay their compliments to the Duke and Duchess,* 15.19 it being their first public day, after their arrival at this palace for the summer recess.

The approach to the castle retains much of the solemn grandeur of ancient times: the inscription on the gate-way still legible,

Esperance

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me comforteth,
appertained to the arms of the Percies, and was placed there when the repairs were made by that family: the moat is drained, and the ceremony of letting down the draw-bridge is forgot; but the walls which enclose the area still wear the ancient countenance of strength and defiance. You enter by a machicolated gate, defended by an upper tower, and after passing a covered way, approach the in∣terior gate which admits you to the area: this entrance is defended by all the devices used in ancient times; iron studded gates, portcullis, open galleries, and apertures in the arching for annoying assailants. The ingenious traveller, Mr Pennant, had been out of humour when he vi∣sited this place. We met with all the inconveniences of a noisy and crowded Inn, with every awkward circumstance which could befall tra∣vellers, who had undergone no little fatigue in pursuing the paths of pleasure; and yet we could not submit to coincide with that gentle∣man's sentiments:
You look (says he) in vain, for any marks of the grandeur of the feodal age, for trophies won by a family eminent in our annals for military prowess and deeds of chivalry; for halls hung with helms and hauberks, or with the spoils of the chace; for exten∣sive forests and venerable oaks. Ye look in vain for the helmet on the tower, the ancient signal of hospitality to the traveller, or for the grey-headed Porter, to conduct him to the hall of entertainment. The numerous train whose countenances give welcome to him on his way, are now no more; and instead of the disinterested Usher of the old times, he is attended by a Valet, eager to receive the fees of admit∣tance.
I must beg leave to pronounce, that though the savage fero∣city of the feodal ages is taken away, yet not the marks of grandeur: we saw no miserable dungeons filled with captives, no places of execu∣tion groaning under their execrable burthen; the towers remain, but without the cry of captivity and torture: Hospitality cloathed in princely array, sits in the hall, dispensing with a brow of benignity, mixed with features of the highest magnificence, gifts worthy her hand: the Duke and Duchess are easy of access, and of an affable deportment; their vi∣sitants are happy under their smiles, without being awed by their emi∣nence. The attention they pay to the petitions of dependents, is marked with the greatest benevolence; no vain promises are given to still im∣portunity, no hopes are flattered without sincerity—the strictest honour attends the most trivial actions. A truly great principle distinguishes these noble personages; amidst a happy liberality, there is so exact a propriety, and such perfect oeconomy, that no transaction passes in the household, without a certain rule, and singular regularity. The innu∣merable

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charities they pour forth, are bestowed with such admirable propriety, that each person relieved at the gate, brings a ticket as an authority to the officer for the dispensation of his Lord's bounty; so that improper objects cannot deceive, or crafty knaves obtain the por∣tion assigned for the relief of the truly necessitous and meritorious ob∣ject. To enumerate acts of benevolence is inconsistent with my plan, but some are so singularly worthy the world's attention, that I cannot resist the pleasure of relating a single transaction, which on my hearing it, brought tears of joy into my eyes.

Her grace returning from an airing in her chariot, passed through the ranks of people in the gate-ways, who attended to receive a daily distribution to the poor. A widow oppressed with grievous necessity, could not leave her domestic employment, or her labour, to attend with her ticket; she entrusted it to her daughter, a girl about seven years of age, who took her parent's place at the gate. Her Grace observed this girl employed in knitting, whilst all the rest of the indigent group sat with idle hands: she sent a servant to bring the child to her, who received the message with astonishment and apprehension; she followed the mes∣senger with trembling steps, revolving in her mind the supposed offences she had committed, and looking with eyes swimming in tears on the ill-fated work, she held in her hand, as the cause of her Grace's dis∣pleasure. Pale with apprehension of reproof, she approached the Du∣chess; confusion and dread were mixed upon her features, whilst looks of timid innocence lived in her eyes. Her grace perceived the child's distress, but conceived not the cause. When the infant had recollected courage enough to give her the power of expression, she began a faul∣tering and fearful excuse for the supposed crime she had committed, in knitting at the gate: a smile of divine benevolence arose upon the Du∣chess's countenance—simplicity and native innocence have great charms —she was won by the child's sensibility as well as by her industry. The girl was taken from her indigent mother, cloathed and put to school, where she is acquiring those accomplishments, which one day will ad∣vance her above the rank of her humble progenitors.

The inside of this palace is finished in a most splendid taste, every thing (to use Mr Pennant's expression) being compleated with

an in∣compatible elegance.
A particular account of suits of apartments, finished and furnished in the highest manner, would be tedious: the rich variety is for the eye only. The chief descriptions I will borrow

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from Mr Grose's work; to which gentleman I am bound to pay due acknowledgments for his elegant drawing, from which the preceding plate was engraved by the ingenious artist Mr Bailey, who was my fellow-traveller.

A description of Alnwick Castle, taken from an ancient survey of divers of the possessions of the Right Hon. the Earl of Northumberland, made about the year 1567, by George Clarkson, Surveyor of all his Lordship's lands, and other the said Earl's officers, remaining among the evidences of their Graces the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland at the said castle in 1775.

The castell of Alnewike ys a verye ancyent large beutifull and portlie castle, scytewate on ye southe side of ye ryver of Alne upon a lytle mote. The circuite therof by estimacon about the walles cclxxvj yeards; conteyninge in yt self vxx.xiiij (5 score and 14) roodes. In ye wch ys thre principall wards. And in the utter warde, where ys the entry from the towne, ys a fair gate house coverid wth lead, with ij paire of wood gates, and on ether syde ys a porter's lodge wth ijo house height aboute: which ys now rewynoose and in decaye, by reasone the flores of the upper house ys decayed, as well in dormounts and joasts, as in boordes, and very necessarie to be repayred. With∣out wch gayts ther ys a very faire turnepike, dooble battelled aboute, wth a pare of wole gats in the uttermoste pte therof. Betwene wch turnpike and the greate gats, yt seamythe theer hathe bene a drawe bridge, but yt ys now filled uppe & paved. From the said gat∣house, towards ye north, ys a curtane wall, of lenth vij roods dim. (seven & a half) & betwene yt & a towre standinge on ye northe west corner, called the Abbots Towre. And in the said courten wall on the inner parte ys a turret covered wth free stone, wch ys upon ye wall twoo houses hight. The said towre, called ye Abbotts Towre, ys of thre house hight: ye west house is the Armorie. From the Aboots towre towards the easte ys an other curtaine wall joynige unto the wall of ye dungeon, conteyinge in lenthe xxxijo roods: and in ye same as in ye middle, betwixt yt & ye dungeon ys twoo lytle garrets.* 15.20 From the easte moste garrett havinge a chamber, to the dungeone, ye said wall hathe no battelment to walke upon. On ye other parte of the

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gate-house towarde ye southe ys a curtaine wall of lengthe fortie twoo yeards to a towre called ye Corner Towre. In ye midle betwen ye gatehouse and the said corner towre ys one garrett in the wall; in the upper parte wherof ys a lytle chamber; the neather parte servinge for a buttresse to ye wall.

Betwene the said corner towre & the midle gatehouse, turning easte, ys a curtaine wall of length lxx yeardes, in the which ys one towre raised of viijth yeards square, of three houses height, called th' Auditors Towre. The under house ys a stable, & th' other houses two fare chambers covered with leade & in good reparacions.

Within the said utter curten ys one house, of two house height, standinge on the lefte hande at the partinge of ye gate, called ye Checker House, the under houses servinge for lodgings, the upper house for a courte house; covered wth slate and in good raparacions. And in ye same courte on th' other hande of the gate, standinge northe & southe, ys a nother house for a stable of twoo house heighte; th' under parte onelie servith for stables; ye over parte therof ys to be loftede and serve for keapinge of graine nowe newlie builded. Ano∣ther like house, a stable, standeth on the right hande betwen ye gaits easte and weste, coverid of late wth slaits, and in good reparacions.

The gate house towre for the mydle gate, is a towre of thre house height & in some parte iiij house height, on the lefte hande one strong prisone & on the right a porter lodge. All the houses above are lodg∣ings; wherin is conteyned hall, ketchinge, buttrie, pantery and lodginge for a constable or other gentlemen to keipe house in. From the same towre est goithe a corteyne wall to the corner towre on the southe east parte, of leinght vxxvij (five score and seventeen) yeardes: in the which ys raysed one towre at th' ende of ye gardnors of thre house height, and of lenght — yeardes square. Wherein ys on the grounde a stable, the mydle house for haye, the overmoste, a cham∣ber; & betwixt ye same, wch ys covered wth leade, and the said cor∣ner towre ys raysed twoo lytle garretts in ye wall; the nether parts servethe for butteryss to the walle, th'other parts servithe onelie for privies, and are coveryd with stone. The said corner towre ys on thre parts rounde, th'inner parte square without wall, conteninge in the rounde therof xvijth (17) yeardes. The same towre ys raysed no

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heigher then the battlement of the wall, and ys of twoo house height all to gyther in haine, and servithe for a parte of the curtinge wall.

Betwene the same rounde towre, turning towards ye northe west to a towre called the Ravine Towre, ys a curtinge wall of xiiijth (14) yeardes of lengthe: ye same towre ys coviryd wth leade, in good re∣parations: the towre yt selfe ys so rente yt yt ys mooche like to fall: yt ys also of thre house height; the nether servith for a stable, the midle for a chamber, and in decay wthout lofte, the overmoste a chambre well repayred. This towre ys in thre pts rounde, the iiijth parte square, conteyninge, in the holle xxvjth (26) yeardes.

Betwene the said towre and a towre called the Counstables Towre, ys a cortinge wall of xxxth (30) yerdes of lenght. The said counsta∣bles towre, ys three partes rounde, the fourth square, containinge xxxvith (36) yeardes; & ys of thre house heighte; the nether parte servithe for a buttrie; the other ijo parts servithe for two faire lodg∣ings; and yt ys covered with lead, wch wold partly be helped; in all other things yt ys in good reparacions.

Betwene the said towre and the postrene towre, ys a curteine wall contg. xxiiith (23) yeards in lenght; and the same postrene towre ys raysed, of xxxvjth (36) yeardes square, and ys of thre house height; the nether parte servethe for a throughe passinge of ye posterne; th' other for twoo fare chambers. The same ys now coverid wth leade sence my L. entred, and ys in good reparacions. And in ye northe weste coarner of the said towre ys raysed a garrett above ye batttell∣ment therof, and right over the gate of the said posterne. And from the said towre to the dungeon ther is a single curtinge wall without battellment of lenghte.....

Within the said inner courtine, betwixt the said towre of the mydle gate and said lytle four squared towre towards th' easte, ys raised one house upon the courteine wall, of thre house height, well coveryd wth leade; and ys of lenght xxvth (25) yeardes; parte therof now servethe for ijo (two) stables for my Lords horses: th' over parte for ijo gardners. The same house in all things ys in good reparacions.

At th' easte ende of the said gardner ys builded one lytle house of thre cooples and one gavill of stone, and joyned upon the said lytle

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square towre & ys covered with slate, which neadithe nothinge but pointinge, wth in ye wch is one horse-milne now in decaye, and ser∣vith for nothinge.

And a lytell from the said house ys ther a nother house of twoo house height, and ys of iiijth (four) coople of timber, wth twoo stone gavills, covered wth slate, and newly pointed; wch servithe onelie for keapinge of haye. Towards th' easte, joyninge to the said house ys ther a lytle gardine, on th' one syde ys inclosed wth the said cortinge wall; and th' others of a wall made of stone; containing in lenght xijth (12) yeardes. And this gardinge ys kept by Raphe Graye, who hathe ye fee of xxs by yeare for the same, besides ye profett therof. So that the Lorde ys here charged wth more then neadethe; for the profett thereof wolde be sufficyent for his paynes. And from the northe easte corner of the said gardinge, right over to ye said ruinous towre, in auncyent time hath ben faire & tryme lodgings, where nowe be nothinge; the stones therof taken away, and put to other uses in the castell; the place now voide wolde be a tryme gardinge: yt joy∣neth upon the said rovinte towre. In the southe easte pte of the said cortinge wall, wth small charges, wolde be made a faire bankettinge house wth a faire gallorie, going from the same towards the northe to the said rovine towre.

Ther is neighe ye said curtinge wall, wch ys betwixt ye said coun∣stables towre and rovine towre, ys builded one faire chapell of vijth (seven) yeardes height of the wall, in leinght xixth (19) yeardes, and vijth (seven) yeardes of bredthe, covered wth slate; the windooes well glazed, in all things well repaired, (the sylong thereof only excepted). Betwixt ye said chappell and the said corteyne-wall, ys builded one lytle house of twoo house height, of length viijth (eight) yeards; the neather parte therof called the revestry; th' over parte therof a cham∣ber wth a stone chimley, wherein ye Lord and Ladie, wth ther chil∣dren, commonly used to heare the service: the same is coverid wth slate; ye lofte therof wolde be repayred.

And before the said chappell dore ys one conducte sett wth stone & a chiste of lead: wch chiste ys three yeards of length, and xviiith (18) inches brod: ye cesterne therof covered wth leade: wherunto comethe a goodlye course of trime and swite water from one well called How∣linge Well in pipes of leade. The same well covered wth a house

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made of stone. And the water of the said conducte rynnethe in pipes of leade to the brewe house onely, and cannot be brought to have course to any other houses of office, but such as are builded, and to be builded wthout the dungeon.

And betwixt the said constables towre and postern towre, standith one faire brewhouse well covered wth slate, and ys in lenght xxtie. (20) yeardes, in bredthe ixen. (nine) yeardes: wherin ther ys a copper sett in a fornace ekid wth a crybe of clapbord wch will holde lyckor for the brewinge of xxivth. (24) bolles of malte: and in the same brewhouse ther ys all manner of vessells to serve for brewinge of the said quantyte of malte newly made and repayred. Ther wolde be one appointed to keape ye said crybe copper in the fornace. All the sd vessells for brewinge, with pippes and hodgesheads perteyning to the same, sweite; and the theight....

And joyninge upon the said posterne towre standethe the bake house southe and northe; being of lenght xvth (15) yeardes; in breadthe viiith (8) yeardes; well covered with sclate. In the northe ende therof ther be twoo ovens; and in the southe ende one boultinge house well colleryd wth wainscote, the wyndowe therof glaysined, and wolde be repaired. And joyninge to ye southe ende of the said bake house ys builded twoo houses covered wth slate, and of twoo house height; ye neather parte servethe for a slaughter house, and a store house; th' over parte of th' one for hayehouse, th' other for chambers for the launderors; and are in lenght .... foote.

And joyninge upon the west side of the said twoo houses ys the scyte of the chaunterie-house; and the said store-house and chambers above yt did serve ye prests for [their] cellers and chambers; and now nothinge lefte but one [single] wall goinge from the said store house to th' entrie of the .... side of the dungeon gate: wch. ys in lenght xxxiiih (33) yeardes. And the grounde betwene ye. wall, houses and dongeone ys used for a woode garthe. And from the weste side of the said entrie to the towre called ye midle warde, ys another small parcel of grounde inclosed for a wode garthe wth a lytle stone wall of xvj (16) yerds of lenght. And from the said towre, called ye midle warde, ys a single curteyne wall joyned to the said dungeon of xxitie (21) yeardes in lenght.

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The dungeon ys sett of a lytle moate made wth men's handes, and for the most parte, as yt were square. The circuite thereof, mea∣sured by the brattishing, containeth ccxxvth (225) yeardes. It ys of a fare and pathe buildinge wth vijen (seven) rounde towres, iiijth (four) garretts. Betwixt the same garretts and towres, lodgings: besides the gate house, wch ys two towres of four house height, ys of a statelie buildinge; and th' other towres be all of thre house height and well covered wth leade, as is lykewise the said gatehouse and other lodg∣ings. Rounde about the same dungeon upon the said leade, ys a tryme walk and a faire prospecte, and in sixe parts therof ys passadges and entries to ye same leads. In ye wch dungeon ys hall, chambers and all other manner of houses of offices for ye Lorde & his traine. The south syde therof servethe for the Lordes & Ladies lodgings; and underneighe them the prisone, porter-lodge & wyne celler, wth ye skollerie. On the weste side for chambres and wardrope. The northe side chambers and lodgings. Th' east side the halle, ketchinge, cham∣bers, pantrye. Underneithe ye same hall a marveylouse fare vaulte, wch ys the butterye, in lenght xvij (17) yeards, in breadthe vjth (6) yeardes. And underneighe the same ketchinge a lardnor, and at th' ende of the said butterie a draw-well of long time not occupied. Within the same dungeone ys a proper lytle coortinge for the moste parte square, and well paved with stone. All the chambers and houses of office within the said dungeone in good reparacions, and hathe in the same th' impleyments, bords, and bedstedes perteyninge therunto, as appearethe by indenture. Ther ys raysed on the weste side of the said dungeon one lytle square towre, called the Watche Towre, above ye leades xiiijth (14) yeardes: wherin is placed for a watchemane to ley; and a beaken to be sett or hinge. For that the northe parte of the dungeon ys the owtemoste parte of the castell on that side, yt wolde be good the single courteyne wall, wch ys builded from the dungeone westeward to the eastemoste garrett of the dobble cortinge wall, were taken downe; and a double courtinge wall made by the grounde of the moate of the said dungeone from the said garrett right over to the corner of the said posterne towre. The same shoulde then be a strenght for that parte of the said castell, and serve for divers other good purposes: the length wherof ys lxxth (70) yeardes.

And because throwe extreme winds the glasse of the windowes of this and other my Lord's castells and houses here in this cuntrie

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doothe decay and waste, yt were goode the whole leights of evrie windowe at the departure of his Lp. from lyinge at anye of his said castells end houses, and dowring the tyme of his Lps. absence or others lying in them, were taken doune and lade upe in safetie; and at sooche tyme, as other his Lp. or anie other sholde lye at anie of the said places, the same might then be sett uppe of newe, wth smale charges to his Lp. wher now the decaye therof shall be verie costlie and chargeable to be repayred.

Alnwick Castle contains about five acres of ground within its outer walls, which are flanked with 16 towers and turrets, that now afford a compleat set of offices to the castle, and maintain many of them their original names, as well as their ancient use and destination.

"These are,

I. The Great or Outward Gate of entrance, anciently called the Utter Ward.

II. The Garner or Avener's Tower: behind which are the stables, coach-houses, &c. in all respects suitable to the magnitude and dig∣nity of this great castle.

III. The Water Tower; containing the cistern or reservoir that sup∣plies the castle and offices with water. Adjoining to this is the laun∣dry, &c.

IV. The Caterer's Tower; adjoining to which are the kitchens, and all conveniencies of that sort.

Behind the adjacent walls are concealed a compleat set of offices and apartments for most of the principal officers and attendants in the castle. Together with a large hall, or dining-room, to entertain the tenants at the audits; with an office for the auditors, house∣keeper's room; and underneath these, a servants-hall, with all other suitable conveniencies.

"V. The Middle Ward.

"VI. The Auditor's Tower.

"VII. The Guard House.

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"VIII. The East Garret.

IX. The Record's Tower; of which the lower story contains the evidence room, or great repository of the archives of the barony; over it is a circular apartment designed and executed with great taste and beauty for a banquetting room, being 29 feet diameter, and 24 feet 6 inches high.

X. The Ravine Tower, or Hotspur's Chair. Between this and the round tower was formerly a large breach in the walls, which for time immemorial had been called by the town's people, the Bloody Gap.

XI. The Constable's Tower; which remains chiefly in its ancient state, as a specimen how the castle itself was once fitted up.

XII. The Postern Tower, or Sally Port. The upper apartment now contains old armour, arms, &c. The lower story has a small furnace and elaboratory for chymical or other experiments.

"XIII. The Armourer's Tower.

"XIV. The Falconer's Tower.

XV. The Abbot's Tower; so called either from its situation nearest to Alnwick Abbey, or from its containing an apartment for the Abbot of that monastery whenever he retired to the castle.

"XVI. The West Garret.

The castle properly consists of three courts or divisions; the en∣trance into which was defended with three strong massy gates; called the Utter Ward, the Middle Ward, and the Inner Ward. Each of these gates was in a high embattled tower, furnished with a port∣cullis, and the outward gate with a draw-bridge also: they had each of them a porter's lodge, and a strong prison, besides other necessary apartments for the constable, bailiff, and subordinate officers. Under each of the prisons was a deep and dark dungeon, into which the more refractory prisoners were let down with cords, and from which there was no exit but through the trap door in the floor above. That of the inner ward is still remaining in all its original horrors.

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This castle, like many others in the north, was anciently orna∣mented with figures of warriors, distributed round the battlements, and therefore the present noble proprietors have allowed them to be continued, and have supplied some that had been destroyed, but to shew what they once were; and, that this is no innovation, they have retained the ancient ones, though defaced, which were placed on the top of the two octagon towers.

From length of time, and the shocks it has sustained in ancient wars, this castle was become quite a ruin, when by the death of Al∣gernon Duke of Somerset, it devolved, together with all the estates of this great barony, &c. to the present Duke and Duchess of Northum∣berland; who immediately set to repair the same, and with the most consummate taste and judgment restored and embellished it, as much as possible, in the true Gothic style; so that it may deservedly be considered as one of the noblest and most magnificent models of a great baronial castle.

Nothing can be more striking than the effect at first entrance within the walls from the town, when through a dark gloomy gateway of considerable length and depth, the eye suddenly emerges into one of the most splendid scenes that can be imagined; and is presented at once with the great body of the inner castle, surrounded with fair semi-circular towers, finely swelling to the eye, and gayly adorned with pinnacles, figures, battlements, &c.

The impression is still further strengthened by the successive en∣trance into the second and third courts, thro' great massy towers, till the stranger is landed in the inner court, in the very center of this great citadel.

Here he enters to a most beautiful stair-case, of a very singular yet pleasing form, expanding like a fan: the cornice of the ceiling is in∣riched with a series of 120 escutcheons, displaying the principal quar∣terings and intermarriages of the Percy family. The space occupied by this stair-case is 46 feet long, 35 feet 4 inches wide, and 43 feet 2 inches high.

The first room that presents to the left, is the saloon, which is a most beautiful apartment, designed in the gayest and most elegant

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style of Gothic architecture; being 42 feet 8 inches long, 37 feet 2 inches wide, and 19 feet 10 inches high.

To this succeeds the drawing-room, consisting of one large oval, with a semicircular projection, or bow-window. It is 46 feet 7 inches long, 35 feet 4 inches wide, and 22 feet high.

Hence the transition is very properly to the great dining room; which was one of the first executed, and is of the purest Gothic, with nitches and other ornaments, that render it a very noble model of a great Baron's hall. In this room was an irregularity in the form, which has been managed with great skill and judgment, and made productive of beauty and convenience. This was a large bow-window, not in the center, but towards the upper end, which now affords a very agreeable recess when the family dine alone, or for a second table at the great public dinners. This room is 53 feet 9 inches long, 20 feet 10 inches wide, (exclusive of the circular recess, which is 19 feet in diameter) and 26 feet 9 inches high.

From the dining-room, the stranger may either descend into the court, by a circular Stair-case, or he is ushered into a very beautiful Gothic apartment over the gateway, commonly used for a breakfast or supper-room: this is furnished with closets in the octagon towers, and is connected with other private apartments. It is 38 feet 4 inches long, . . feet wide, and 16 feet 1 inch high.

Hence the stranger is conducted into the library, which is a very fine room, in the form of a parallelogram, properly fitted up for books, and ornamented with stucco-work in a very rich Gothic style; being 64 feet long, . . wide, and 16 feet 1 inch high. This apart∣ment leads to

The chapel; which fills all the upper space of the middle ward. Here the highest display of Gothic ornaments in the greatest beauty has been very properly exhibited; and the several parts of the chapel have been designed after the most perfect models of Gothic excel∣lence. The great east window is taken from one of the finest in York minster. The ceiling is borrowed from that of King's college, in Cam∣bridge; and the walls are painted after the great church in Milan: but the windows of painted glass will be in a stile superior to any thing that has yet been attempted, and worthy of the present more im∣proved

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state of the arts. Exclusive of a beautiful circular recess for the family the chapel is 50 feet long, 21 feet, 4 inches wide, and 22 feet high.

Returning from the chapel through the library, and passing by another great stair-case, (that fills an oval space 22 feet 9 inches long, and 15 feet 3 inches wide) we enter a passage or gallery which leads to two great state-bed chambers, each 30 feet long, most nobly fur∣nished, with double dressing rooms, closets, and other conveniencies, all in the highest elegance and magnificence, but as conformable as possible to the general stile of the castle. From these bed-chambers the passage opens to the grand stair-case, by which we first entered, and compleats a tour not easily to be paralleled.

I must now turn my attention to the antiquity and history of this place.

Mr Grose says,

it is believed to have been founded in the time of the Romans, although no part of the original structure is now re∣maining. But when part of the dungeon or castle keep was taken down to be repaired some years ago, under the present walls were discovered the foundations of other buildings, which lay in a diffe∣rent direction from the present; and some of the stones appeared to have Roman mouldings. "The dungeon or keep of the present castle, is believed to have been founded in the Saxon times. The zigzag fret-work round the arch that leads into the inner court, is evidently of Saxon architecture; and yet this was probably not the most an∣cient entrance; for under the flag tower, before that part was taken down and rebuilt by the present Duke, was the appearance of a gate∣way that had been walled up; directly fronting the present outward gateway into the town."

The first proprietor of the barony of Alnwick named in history, is Tyson, who fell at the battle of Hastings, in defence of Harold his King.* 15.21 William the Conqueror gave the heiress of Tyson in marriage to

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Ivo de Vesey, one of his attendant adventurers; her possessions being very great, as well at Alnwick as in Yorkshire. Beatrix was their issue,

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and by King Henry I. was given in marriage to Eustace Fitz John; from whom descended four generations, who successively possessed this

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barony. It was held in capite of the King by 18 Knights fees. This was an illustrious and powerful family.* 15.22

King William Rufus, being required by King Malcolm of Scotland to fulfil the articles concluded upon in the truce made in 1091, gave the Scotch Monarch assurances of their completion, upon his repairing to his court, to which he ordered him to be honourably conducted. On his arrival, he was received with great insolence and contempt, being refused admittance to the King's presence, who insisted that Malcolm should submit his claim to the judgment of the English peers. Malcolm with a becoming dignity refused, alledging if there was any dispute to his title, it should be settled on the Marches, by men of both nations, agreeable to the laws and customs established there. The English Mo∣narch not consenting to such proposition, Malcolm returned in high displeasure, and was not long before he shewed his resentment, by en∣tering the borders with a powerful army, accompanied by Edward his

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son: they laid waste the county of Northumberland to the environs of Alnwick, and besieged the castle. The most authentic account of the tragical events of this siege, seems to be that given in the ancient Chro∣nicle of Alnwick Abbey, of which a copy is preserved in the British Museum. Mowbray * 15.23 Earl of Northumberland had collected a few troops to oppose the invader, and with them possessed this castle. It was too strong to be taken by assault, but a circumvallation being made by the Scotch forces, the garrison was cut off from hopes of succour, and was on the point of surrendering, when a person undertook its re∣lief by the following stratagem: he rode forth compleatly armed, with the keys of the castle tied to the end of his spear, and presented himself in a suppliant manner before the King's pavilion, as being come to sur∣render the fortress. Malcolm advancing hastily without his armour, re∣ceived a mortal wound from the spearman, who escaped by the fleet∣ness of his horse, and by swimming the river, which was then flooded with rains. The Chronicle says his name was Hammond, and the place of his passage was for long after him named Hammond's Ford: but in Lel. Col. he is called Morkell, from the Book of the High Altar of Durham Cathedral.† 15.24

Prince Edward, Malcolm's eldest son, too incautiously advancing to revenge his father's death, fell into an ambuscade, and was slain.‡ 15.25 The garrison sallied forth, the Scotch were thrown into confusion by

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the loss of their leaders, and a panic succeeding, victory, stained with great bloodshed, declared for the English: notwithstanding the personal bravery of many illustrious Chieftains, and their utmost efforts to rally the disconcerted troops, they fled in the utmost cowardice before their conquerors, who were greatly inferior in numbers. The spot where King Malcolm was slain, was distinguished by a cross, which was lately repaired or rebuilt by the Duchess of Northumberland,* 15.26 who was im∣mediately descended from this unfortunate Monarch, by his daughter Queen Maud, wife of King Henry I. of England; whose lineal descen∣dants were,

  • 1. The Lady Mary Plantagenet, (daughter of Henry Earl of Lan∣caster, grandson of King Henry III.) married to Henry Percy, the third Lord of Alnwick.
  • 2. The Lady Elizabeth Mortimer, (grand-daughter of Lionel Duke of Clarence, son of Edward III.) wife of Hotspur.
  • 3. The Lady Eleanor Neville, (grand-daughter of John of Gaunt) wife of the second Earl of Northumberland.† 15.27

In the year 1135, King David I. of Scotland seized upon the castles of Northumberland, Alnwick being one, previous to the treaty entered into between him and King Stephen.

After King William of Scotland, sirnamed the Lion, made his dis∣graceful retreat from the castle of Prudhoe, A. D. 1174, he beset the castle of Alnwick with his whole army, consisting of 80,000 men: be∣ing repulsed for some time, he formed a blockade, and drew off many of his forces in plundering parties, to pillage the country; one of which, as Benedict of Peterborough says, commanded by Earl Duncan, entered the town of Warkworth, burnt it, and put all the inhabitants to the sword, without distinction of age or sex; and that he made his soldiers break open the church of St Lawrence in that place, in which,

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and in the house of the Minister, they flew above one hundred men, bedsies women and children. Bernard Baliol, a youth of great forti∣tude, with about 400 horsemen raised at Newcastle, engaged in an en∣terprize to surprize the Scotch Monarch: they were favoured in their march by a thick fog, which kept them concealed till they reached the environs of Alnwick, when discovering the King attended by about 60 of his chief followers on a reconnoitering party, they came upon them unexpectedly on Saturday the 5th day of July, whilst the principal parts of his vast army were scattered over the country in acts of rapine and violence, and the others laying in an idle and unsuspicious security before the castle, a conflict ensued, in which the King's horse was killed under him, and many of his attendants were slain, the King being made prisoner. The straggling parties were put to the route or taken, to a great amount in number, before they gained intelligence of the real force of their opponents: and the King of those robbers, after being confined some time in Richmond Castle, was removed to London, and afterwards ransomed for 100,000l. at the same time doing homage for his crown: as a memorial of which submission, he deposited his arms at the altar in York Minster.

In the reign of King John, A. D. 1212, Eustace de Vesey being accused of a conspiracy against the King's life, fled into Scotland. His castle was ordered to be rased; but the apprehension of a southern rebellion diverted the purpose.

Eustace with the northern Barons, A. D. 1216, at Felton did homage to Alexander II. King of Scotland, his brother-in-law, which so much incensed King John, that he poured forth into the north a large army, laid Felton in ashes, together with the towns of Mitford, Morpeth, Aln∣wick, Wark, and Roxburgh. Whilst John made these dreadful depreda∣tions in Northumberland, the Lord Eustace, with King Alexander, made an incursion as far as Barnardcastle, in the country of Durham, to which they laid siege; and being out on horseback, to take a view of the for∣tress, in order to plan an assault, making too near an approach, Eustace lost his life by an arrow shot from some of the out-posts.

What greatly contributed to prolong the intestine troubles of Henry the Third's kingdom in 1266, was the despair of the rebel Barons, by the forfeitures of their estates, under the determinations of the parlia∣ment of Winchester. John de Vesey was one of them, and having been

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deprived of his castle and barony of Alnwick, he entered into a combi∣nation with several others labouring under the same proscription, for the recovery of their possessions. Vesey raised a sufficient force to gain his castle, but Prince Edward coming against him with a strong body of forces, reduced his garrison to such distress, that he was obliged to surrender, and submit himself to the Prince's mercy; through whose intercession he received the royal pardon.

In 1264, this John de Vesey was summoned to parliament in the 28th year of King Henry the Third's reign. This was the glorious aera in which our mode of parliaments was first settled, and Commons regu∣larly admitted to a share in the legislative power. He died in the 11th year of the reign of King Edward I. And in the 25th year of that reign, A. D. 1297, died William de Vesey, the last Baron of that family; who having no ligitimate issue, but leaving a son born out of wedlock, did, by the King's licence, enfeof Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham and ti∣tular Patriarch of Jerusalem, in the castle and Barony of Alnwick, in trust for such natural son; but this Right Reverend Guardian got the infant deprived of his barony, and as he acquired other royal favours, also obtained a confirmation from the King of a sale made thereof to Henry Lord Percy, Baron of Topcliff and Spofford, in Yorkshire, an ancestor of the present illustrious family.

Mr Grose says, but from what authority he is not pleased to point out,

that the appointment of the infant's Guardians, as also the very words of the deed of enfeofment (now extant) in which the convey∣ance is to the Bishop absolute and unconditional, confute a report too hastily taken up by some Historians, that this castle and barony were only given to the Bishop in trust for William the Bastard above men∣tioned; and that he was guilty of a violation of this trust in disposing of them otherwise.
It would have been well if Mr Grose could have shewn where this deed was to be seen; as it would in some measure have exonerated the Bishop's memory of this infamous charge, and would have set Historians right for the future. Rymer (III. 184—18-9) au∣thorizes the contrary determination. I do not remember an instrument of that antiquity, which contains an express trust; but where a trust was premised, it was merely confidential, or expressed in some separate deed. Trusts were introduced by the Lawmen to evade the statute of uses made in the reign of King Henry VIII. and from that period gained their legal acceptation.

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The castle and barony of Alnwick continued in the Bishop's possession 12 years,* 15.28 before he granted them to Lord Percy. The Bishop's deed bears date the 19th of Nov. 1309, and doth not indeed wear the counte∣nance of an obscure transaction, for the witnesses to it were some of the greatest personages in the kingdom, viz. Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln, Robert de Umfreville Earl of Angus, Robert Lord Clifford, &c. the grant was afterwards confirmed by the King at Sheene, 23d Jan. 1310, to H. Percy and his sons; who Mr Grose says,

to remove every pre∣tence of complaint, obtained a release of all right and title to the in∣heritance from the heir at law, Sir Gilbert de Aton, Knt. who was the nearest legitimate relation to the Lord William de Vesey above men∣tioned.
I must confess Mr Grose's argument with me tends not to exculpate the Bishop, but to confirm the suspicion of his guilt. Such a ratification of title, in my apprehension, tells a consciousness of defects: had the bastard son confirmed, the doubt would have been taken away.† 15.29

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From the above period Alnwick Castle became the chief baronial seat in the north of the Percies, a family of great distinction in the southern parts of England from the time of the Conqueror. Immediately on this acquisition, the Lord Henry Percy began to repair this castle; and he and his successors perfected and compleated the citadel and its out∣works. The two great octagan towers which were super-added to the

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    • VI. Of Plantagenet—Mary daughter of Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lan∣caster, and grandson of King Henry III. was wife of Henry, third Lord Percy of Alnwick, son to the founder of these towers, viz. Gules, three lions rampant, Or, charged with a label of five points.
    • In the center are, the arms of the Sovereign, King Edward III. viz. France and England quarterly, France being then Semee de fleurs de Lis.
    • VII. Of Warren—Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Warren and Surry, was wife of Henry Lord Percy, the founder's grandfather, viz. Chequered or & az.
    • VIII. Of Arundel—Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Arundel, was the founder's mother, wife of Henry Percy, first Lord of Alnwick, viz. Gules, a lion rampant, or.
    • IX. Of Umfreville—Margaret Percy, one of the founder's daughters, was then married to Robert, son and heir of Gilbert de Umfreville, Earl of Angus, viz. Azure, a cinque foil, or, between six croslets argent.
    • X. Of Percy again—Isabel Percy, another of the daughters, was then unmarried. She was afterwards wife of William de Aton.
    • XI. Of Neville—Maude Percy, the founder's eldest daughter, was wife of John Lord Neville of Raby, viz. Gules, a saltire argent.
    • XII. Of Fitz Walter—Eleanor Percy, his second daughter, was married to John Lord Fitz Walter, viz. Or, a fess between two chevrons, gules.* 17.1

    The last remarkable incident in history relative to this castle, was in the reign of King Edward IV. and happened after his great victory at Towton. One Peter de Brezè, a Frenchman, being under his Sovereign's displeasure, and in prison, was restored to liberty on con∣dition of his entering into the service of the King of Sicily, the father of Margaret of Anjou, and conducting the troops raised for her service into England. Brezè landed on the Northumberland coast with about 500

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    men at arms: he possessed the castle of Alnwick, which was soon after besieged by Lord Hastings, Sir Ralph Gray, and Sir John Howard. The garrison was reduced to great distress, when George Douglas, Earl of Angus, influenced to this service by great promises from Margaret, advanced unexpectedly to the besiegers with 10,000 horsemen, and making such manoeuvres as induced the English army to apprehend he meant to attack them, whilst they were forming themselves in order of battle, he brought a strong party up to the postern gate, to whom the garrison made a sally, and being mounted on horses brought for that purpose, or behind the armed horsemen, the small garrison evacuated the fortress, being only 300 in number, and fled without bloodshed. It is believed the garrison, before they retired, endeavoured to destroy all the arms and ammunition they could not carry off: for a few years ago, on opening the principal well in the inner ward, which had been long filled up, the workmen found in it a great number of cannon balls of a large size, such as were chiefly used after the first invention of gun∣powder.

    Margaret, in the month of October following, making another ef∣fort, by the treachery of Sir Ralph Gray, the Governor, was again put in possession of Alnwick Castle: but King Edward soon approaching with a numerous army, and finding no forces in the field to oppose him, Margaret having again retired into Scotland, he laid siege to the three great fortresses of Alnwick, Dunstanborough, and Bambrough, at the same time. The troops which invested Alnwick, being 10,000 in num∣ber, were under the command of the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of Kent, the Lord Powis, the Baron of Graystock, and Lord Cromwell. Alnwick held out till the 6th of January; the French General Brezé having made an ineffectual effort to relieve it.

    I must trespass upon the reader so far, as to introduce in this place a short account of the illustrious family of Percy.

    This family is descended from Mainfred de Percy, who came into Normandy from Denmark, before the adventure of the famous Rollo, and had issue Geffrey, who took part with Rollo in his expedition into that province, of which he obtained the Sovereignty; being the first Duke of that country, and lineal ancestor to William Duke of Normandy and King of England. Glover the Somerset Herald in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, set forth this as an undoubted genealogy of the family.

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    Geffrey had issue William de Percy, Lord Percy and Earl of Kaws, Governor of Normandy; who had issue Geffrey de Percy, who married Mary daughter to the Earl of Forest; who had issue William de Percy, who had issue Geffrey, all born in Normandy.

    The last Geffrey had issue two sons, William and Serlo, who came into England with William the Conqueror.* 17.2

    William was a great favourite of this Prince, and by his bounty held large possessions in Hampshire, 32 lordships in Lincolnshire, and 86 lordships in Yorkshire; Topcliff, in the North Riding, and Spofford, in the West Riding, being his chief seats. He left a great patrimony in France to the Lord Monpensier.—Madox, in his Baronia Anglicana, says, that William the Conqueror granted to his favourite Percy a barony of 30 Knights fees.

    This William de Percy was surnamed Le Gernon, or Algernon: he was possessed of the lordship of Whitby, with the large territory adjacent thereto, in the East Riding of the county of York, where he founded an Abbey † 17.3 for Benedictine Monks, to the honour of God, St. Peter, and

    Page 221

    St. Hilda, in the time of King William Rufus, in the place where the monastery of Strenshale anciently stood (destroyed by Inguar and Hubba the Danes). Serlo the founder's brother, having assumed the habit of a Monk, was Abbot. William married Emma de Port, Lady of the ho∣nour of Semar, and had issue by her three sons, Allan, Walter, and William. At Sion-house, in an old roll, wrote in the reign of King Henry VIII. is a history of the family in verse, where it is said he was Admiral of the navy which brought over William the Conqueror, that he died beyond the seas, and his heart was brought over and interred at Whitby, in the chapter-house; where also Emma his Lady was buried, having survived her husband.

    Allan de Percy, the eldest son, succeeded to the honours and estates of his father. He married Emma daughter of Gilbert de Gant, Lord of Humundbre, and son of Gilbert Earl of Lincoln, by whom he had five sons, William, Geffrey, Henry, Walter, and Allan. He had likewise one illegitimate son Allan, who was with the King of Scots, in the third of King Stephen, at the battle of Northallerton, called Bellum de Standardo.

    William,* 17.4 the eldest, married Alice the daughter of Robert Lord Ross, and had issue four sons, Allan, William, Richard, and Robert. Allan

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    dying without issue, William succeeded to the estate and honours of his ancestors.

    This William,* 17.5 in the 34th year of King Henry I. A. D. 1133, founded the Abbey of Hampoll for Cistertian Monks; and also that of Sallay, in Craven, in the 12th year of King Stephen, A. D. 1147. He was one of the northern Barons who distinguished themselves at the battle of Northallerton against the Scots. In the 12th year of King Henry II. on levying the aids on the marriage of the King's daughter, he certified his Knights fees to be 28 de veteri feoffamento, and 8, a third and sixth parts de novo feoffamento. He made a journey to Jerusalem, and de∣parted this life at Mount-Joy, in the Holy Land. He married Adelidis de Tunebrigge, by whom he had issue four sons, Walter, Allan, Richard, and William, and two daughters, Maud and Agnes. All the sons died without issue. William was a Monk, and Abbot of Whitby. Maud mar∣ried William Earl of Warwick, and Agnes, Joceline de Lovaine, son to Godfrey Duke of Brabant, and brother to Adelidis Queen of England, wife of King Henry I. Maud died without issue, on whose demise Agnes her sister became sole heiress of all the large possessions of her ancestors. Before her marriage with Joceline, a covenant was made, that he should either bear the arms of the Lords Percy (five fusils in fess Or) and renounce his own, or continue his own arms, and take the name of Percy to him and his issue by her. Under her picture in the pedigree at Sion-house are these lines:

    Page 223

    Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name By me survives, unto his lasting fame; Brabant's Duke's son I wed, and for my sake Retain'd his arms and Percy's name did take.
    There was issue of this marriage four sons, Richard, Henry, Robert (Lord Sutton upon Derwent) and Joceline. In the before-mentioned roll are these lines:
    And at Petworth is beryed this noble Lord, Lady Agnes his wife, at Whitby, books record.
    Joceline de Louvaine's pedigree was from the Kings of France of the race of Charlemain, son of a Prince of the Medes.

    Richard, the eldest son, was one of the chief of those Barons in arms against King John, in the 17th year of that reign, and also one of the 25 who took an oath to compel the King to observe the particular arti∣cles granted by the great Charter and Charter of the Forests: and he was ex∣communicated by the Pope, for his being a partizan with the insurgents. He was one of the Barons who called over Lewis, the son of the French King, to receive the Crown of England, and in association with Robert de Ros and Peter de Brus, subdued all Yorkshire to the obedience of Lewis. He made his peace with King Henry III. and was in arms for him against the Welch, in the second year of that reign. He died without issue, as did also Robert and Joceline.

    Henry * 17.6 succeeded as heir of his brother: he married Isabel daughter of Adam, and sister of Peter de Brus, of Skelton. He had in dowry the manor of Lekenfield, for which he rendered the following remark∣able service: he and his heirs were to resort to Skelton Castle every Christmas-day, and lead the Lady of that castle from her chamber to the chapel at mass, and from thence to her chamber again; and after dinner to depart. He was buried at Whitby, and left issue two sons, William and Henry.

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    William * 17.7 being seized of the estates of his father, paid 100 marks fine in the 26th year of the reign of King Henry III. to exempt him of attendance on the King into Gascoine. He had two wives; by the first, Elan daughter of William Lord Bardolph, he had seven sons; by Joan his second wife, who was the daughter of William de Brewer, he had no issue that survived him.

    Henry,† 17.8 his eldest son, succeeded his father in the honours and chief possessions of the family. He married Eleanor daughter of John Earl of Warren and Surry. We find him in several services in the reign of King Henry III. against the Welch and Scotch, and for some short time in association with the rebellious Barons, but restored soon after to royal favour. He had issue three sons, William, John, and Henry. William and John died without issue, and the honours and estates devolved upon

    Henry,‡ 17.9 whose wardship, 22d King Edward I. was granted to Edmund the King's brother. In the 24th year of that reign, he was knighted by the Sovereign before Berwick; after which he was in the battle of Dunbar, where the English obtained a signal victory. He was in many distinguished services in the succeeding years of that reign: he was one of the great Barons who signed that memorable declaration to Pope Boniface,

    That their King was not to answer in judgment, for any rights of the Crown of England, before any tribunal under heaven, &c. and that by the help of God they would resolutely and with all their force maintain against all men.
    In the 34th year of that reign he was sent into Scot∣land, accompanied by Lord Clifford and the Earl of Pembroke, to oppose Robert de Brus, then lately crowned King, and at Methfeu they ob∣tained a compleat victory. They were besieged at Kentier by the Scotch

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    forces, where they defended themselves gallantly till relieved by troops sent by the King from Lenercost. This Lord Percy purchased the ba∣rony of Alnwick, as before mentioned. In the 5th year of King Henry II. he was Governor of the castles of Scarbrough and Bambrough; and in the same year the King granted him the custody of the manor of Temple Weneby, in the county of York, belonging to the Knights Templars, who were charged by Pope Clement with being guilty of apostacy, idolatry, sodomy, and heresy. The Pope's bull alledges,

    that when a brother is admitted, he denies Christ and he treads on the cross.
    This Lord Percy appears to be of the list of factious Barons, who be∣sieged Piers de Gaviston, Earl of Cornwall, in Scarbrough Castle, on ac∣count of the royal partiality shewn to this unhappy favourite: Gaviston had surrendered himself to his protection, but it did not prevent his death. A royal mandate issued for the confiscation of all Lord Percy's estates and effects; but in the 7th year of that reign, he had restitution and a pardon from the King: after which he was in the royal army at the battle of Bannocksburn, when the English sustained a shameful de∣feat.* 17.10 On the death of Robert Lord Clifford, during the minority of his heir, he had the custody of the castles of Skipton in Craven, Appleby, Brougham, and Pendragon, in Westmoreland and Cumberland. He died in the 8th year of King Edward II. and was buried in the abbey of Fountains, before the high altar. By Eleanor his wife, daughter of John Fitz Allan, he had issue two sons, Henry and William.

    Henry † 17.11 was 16 years of age on the decease of his father. On the 10th of September, 16 King Edward II. he was made a Knight at York, having the year before been appointed Governor of Scarbrough and

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    Pickering. In the 19th year of King Edward II. on the landing of Queen Isabel and Prince Edward in England, he was one of the Nobles that joined with them for reforming the abuses of government, occa∣sioned by the influence of the Spencers. The accession of the forces headed by Lord Percy, greatly augmented the army at Gloucester, and was singularly instrumental in the great changes then effected. He was one of the 12 Lords appointed the young King's Council, was principal Commissioner for settling the Peace with Scotland, and was made War∣den of the Marches. He was the first of the Percys who possessed the castle of Warkworth, which after the death of Sir John Clavering, with∣out issue male, was settled to devolve to the King and his heirs; and which Henry Lord Percy received by grant from the Crown, in lieu of an annual salary of 500 marks paid to him for certain stipulated ser∣vices. In the 4th of King Edward III. he was Ambassador to France. In the 5th year of the same reign, he was made one of the Conserva∣tors of the Peace for the counties of Cumberland and Northumberland; and in the succeeding year he was appointed Warden of the Marches, and Conservator of the Peace for the counties of Northumberland, York, Lancaster, Cumberland, and Westmoreland. He was with King Edward III. at the siege of Berwick, and at the memorable battle of Hallidown-hill. He was in much foreign service in this reign, as well as being engaged in the wars with Scotland: he signalized himself at the siege of Nantz, and after his return to England, had the chief com∣mand at the battle of Nevil's Cross, near Durham, where King David was made prisoner, and his powerful army vanquished. After living a life of action and honour, he died on the 26th of February, in the 26th year of King Edward III. and was buried in the priory of Alnwick. By Idonea his wife, daughter of Robert Lord Clifford, he had issue four sons, Henry his eldest thirty years of age at the decease of his father, Thomas Bishop of Norwich, William, and Roger, and also four daughters.

    Henry * 17.12 was in the great expedition to France, on which succeeded the famous battle of Cressy. He was one of the leaders of the first wing

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    of the English army at the battle of Nevil's Cross. On Oct. 5th, 28 King Edward III. A. D. 1354, he was commissioned to receive from Sir John de Coupland, Sheriff of Northumberland, the body of David de Bruce, King of Scotland, and set him at liberty, according to the treaty for his ransom. He was present with King Edward III. when John Baliol re∣signed his Crown at Roxburgh. In the 33d year of the same reign, he was Constable of the Castle of Berwick; and in the same year attended the King to France, and was a witness to the treaty of Chartres. He was several times in the commission of Conservators of the Marches. He had two wives; he first married the Lady Mary Plantagenet, daughter to Henry Earl of Lancaster, son of Edmund Earl of Lancaster, Leicester, Derby, &c. second son of King Henry III. Edmund married Blanch daughter of Robert Earl of Artois (brother of St. Lewis King of France) and widow of Henry de Champaigne King of Navar. Lady Mary was sister to Henry Plantagenet, who was created Duke of Lancaster in the 27th of King Edward III. whose daughter and heir was wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, father to King Henry IV. By this marriage Lord Percy had issue two sons, Henry and Thomas.* 17.13 By his second wife, Joan the daughter and heiress of John de Oreby, he had one Child, Maud, who married John Lord Ross. Lord Percy departed this life on Ascension-day, in the 42d year of King Edward III. he was succeeded by his eldest son,

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    Henry,* 17.14 who during his father's life was engaged in several expedi∣tions into France: but what chiefly renders his memory amiable to this age, is, that he was a great favourer and supporter of the reformer Wickliffe, by which his life was in imminent peril. He was appointed Lord Marshal of England, which office he retained at the coronation of King Richard II. when he was created (16 July, 1377) Earl of Nor∣thumberland. Soon afterwards he grievously revenged the slaughter made by the Earl of Dunbar at Roxburgh; having levied an army of 10,000 men, he ravaged the territories of that Earl for three successive days, burning and slaying conformable to the savage customs of the age. Under the influence of the Duke of Lancaster, who had expressed an inveterate hatred to him, he was accused of neglect of duty, wherein the Scots had surprized Berwick, and judgment of death and loss of estate was pronounced against him: but this severe sentence was re∣mitted by the King, and he soon recovered that fortress. The Earl of Northumberland having suffered many unmerited indignities from the King, entered into an association for his deposition: messengers were accordingly sent to Henry Duke of Lancaster, son of John of Gaunt, who was then in France, to invite him over; and he taking advantage of Richard's being in Ireland, with a few attendants, landed in the month of July, 1399, in Holdernesse, Yorkshire, where he was received by the Earl of Northumberland, Sir Henry Percy his son, the Earl of Westmoreland, and many other persons of great power, with a consi∣derable body of men, which in a few days was augmented to 60,000. The succeeding event is so notorious, that it requires no place here. The Earl of Northumberland was appointed Envoy to Richard, by whose argument he was persuaded to resign a royalty of which nothing remained but the name, the defection being so general, that he had not

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    one adherent left. A parliament was called to meet on the feast of St. Michael, when Richard was solemnly deposed, and Duke Henry having heard read the articles of royal charge by the Archbishop, the same were signed by him with the sign of the cross; and the Earl of Nor∣thumberland being High Constable of England, taking the ring with which the Kings were wedded to the realm, shewed it to the whole as∣sembly, and then put it on the Duke's finger; after which the Duke kissed the Earl, as he had before done the Archbishop, and immediately he was proclaimed King, by the name of Henry IV. The Earl received appointment of the high office of Constable of England for life, with a grant of the Isle of Man, and many other great dignities and eminent employments. In the third year of King Henry IV. the Scots having invaded England, the Earl gave them a dreadful overthrow at Homeldon hill, where the Earl of Douglas was taken prisoner. Some dissentions quickly ensued between the Earl and his Sovereign; the blood of Percys could not brook an indignity from one chiefly by them raised to the throne; they levied a powerful army, and under Henry Hotspur and Earl Douglas their leaders, gave the royalists battle near Shrewsbury,* 17.15 in which the event for long was dubious, and victory seemed to change from party to party several times, till at length King Henry was sup∣ported by the coming up of his corps de reserve, and gained a com∣pleat victory, Henry Hotspur being among the slain.† 17.16 The Earl of Nor∣thumberland, then indisposed, was not come up with his reinforce∣ments

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    before the battle; on receiving intelligence of the ill success of his party, he retreated to his castle of Warkworth; from whence being summoned by the King, he surrendered himself, and obtained royal clemency for life, but was divested of his estates and kept prisoner till the commotions subsided, when he received restitution of ho∣nours and lands, the Isle of Man excepted. This restoration was at∣tended with a great solemnity, in the presence of the assembled estates of the kingdom. The Commons gave thanks to the King in full par∣liament for the favour shewn to the Earl of Northumberland. The same day, at their request, the King commanded the Earls of Northum∣berland and Westmoreland, in token of perfect amity, to kiss each other in open parliament, and to take each other by the hand thrice; which they did. The same ceremony passed between the Earls of Nor∣thumberland and Dunbar, on the 22d February then following. But the death of Hotspur, and the neglect shewn the Earl of Northumber∣land from the Crown, enraged him so much, that in the succeeding year he openly joined the northern malcontents, and again took up arms against the King. The royal army soon appeared in the north, seized the Earl's castles of Alnwick and Warkworth, and drove the party to seek refuge in Scotland. A scheme was projected to surrender up this turbulent Earl, but he gaining intelligence of the design, escaped, and afterwards levied a sufficient force to enter England, and recover his castles: these prosperous circumstances were soon succeeded by a total overthrow at the battle of Bramham Moor, on the 2d of March, 8th King Henry IV. A. D. 1403, in which the Earl was slain. His head was cut off, then white with age, and being sent to London, was fixed on a poll on the bridge: his quarters were placed on the gates of London, Lincoln, Berwick, and Newcastle; but in the month of May fol∣lowing they were taken down, and delivered up to his friends to be buried. The Earl of Northumberland had two wives; he first married Margaret daughter to Ralph Lord Nevil, sister to the first Earl of West∣moreland; by her he had issue three sons, Henry named Hotspur, Tho∣mas,* 17.17 and Ralph.† 17.18 To his second wife he married Matilda the widow

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    of Sir Gilbert Umfrevill, Earl of Angus, daughter of Thomas Lord Lucy, and sister and heir to Anthony Lord Lucy, who out of her great affection settled upon his Lordship, and his heirs, all her honours and lands, the baronies of Cockermouth and Egremont in Cumberland, and the baronies of Langley and Prudhoe in this county, on condition of quartering the arms of the Lucies with his own. By her the Earl had no issue.

    Henry Hotspur, Lord Percy, shewed in his early youth a martial dis∣position. At the coronation of King Richard II. when his father was created Earl, he received the order of Knighthood. In the ninth year of that reign he was made Governor of Berwick, and Warden of the Marches towards Scotland; in which office he was so active, that the Scotch gave him the title of Hotspur. In the same year he was sent to Calais, where he testified his valour. In the 11th year of the same reign he was elected Knight of the Garter: but being envied at court for the military fame he had acquired, his adversaries who had gained the So∣vereign's ear, prevailed to get him an appointment at sea to repel the French, who threatened an invasion: in which he acquitted himself with great honour. In the same year the Scotch entering the East Marches, he encountred them near Newcastle, slew the Earl Douglas with his own hands, and mortally wounded the Earl of Murres: but pressing over forward, was taken prisoner by the Earl of Dunbar, together with his brother Ralph, and both were carried into Scotland. He bore many ho∣nourable commissions in this reign; and in the succeeding one being an attendant on his father when the crown was placed on the head of Henry IV. among other marks of royal favour, he was made Sheriff of Northumberland, Governor of Berwick and Roxburgh, and Justice of Chester, North Wales, and Flintshire; also had a grant of the castle and lordship of Bambrough for life, and of the whole county and dominion of Anglesey. He was in the battle of Hailidon-hill, and to his valour and his archers, that great victory was chiefly attributed. He married Elizabeth the eldest daughter of Edmund Mortimer, Earl of March, by Phillippi his wife, only daughter and heir of Lionel Duke of Clarence, second surviving son of King Edward III. by whom he had issue one son, Henry, and one daughter, who married John Lord Clifford, and

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    surviving him, to her second husband married Ralph Nevill, second Earl of Westmoreland.

    Henry * 17.19 his son being carried into Scotland by his grandfather when an infant of tender years, after the death of his father, in order to pro∣tect him against the resentment of King Henry, Robert King of Scot∣land intending to send his son James out of the kingdom, for fear of his coming to an untimely end by means of Walter Duke of Albany his uncle, Henry was his attendant and companion; and leaving Bas Castle in stormy weather, they were drove on Flambrough-head, where going on shore to refresh themselves, and being known, were taken prisoners, and carried to the King at Windsor. This event proved fortunate for our young Lord, he thereby having a means of winning the friendship of Henry V. who restored him to the title and possessions of his ances∣tors.† 17.20 In the 4th year of King Henry V. he sat in the parliament hol∣den at Westminster Oct. 19, as Earl of Northumberland, and the same year was constituted General Warden of the Marches of Scotland. He attended the King in his French campaigns, and during this reign held many distinguished offices. He received the order of Knighthood along with King Henry VI. and many accompanying Peers, from the hand

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    of the Duke of Bedford, then Regent. In the 14th year of King Henry VI. he made an unsuccessful irruption into Scotland, and at Piperden was defeated by the Earl of Angus, with the loss of 1500 men. In the 29th year of the same reign, he again entered Scotland, and engaged, near the river Sare, a large body of Scotch under the command of Sir William Wallace of Craigy, where he again had a defeat, and nar∣rowly escaped being prisoner; his son choosing to throw himself into the hands of the enemy to save his father. This Earl added to the works of Alnwick Castle, and fortified the Town with a stone wall of considerable strength, with four gates and square towers.

    In the great carnage at the battle of St. Albans, 23d May, 1455, the Earl was among the slain, having supported the King with all his power. He was interred in the chapel of the blessed Virgin in the abbey of St. Albans. He married Eleanor daughter of Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and had by her nine sons, Henry, John,* 17.21 Thomas,† 17.22 Ralph,‡ 17.23 John, Henry,§ 17.24 William,‖ 17.25 Richard,** 17.26 and George,†† 17.27 and two daughters, Catharine and Ann,‡‡ 17.28 He was succeeded by his eldest son,

    Henry,§§ 17.29 who was thirty years of age when he succeeded to the title. In the 4th year of the reign of King Henry VI. he was knighted: the Duke of Bedford first knighted the King, and then the King in like manner conferred the same honour on several of the sons of Earls, among whom was this Henry Lord Percy, then about two years of age, and the King not five years old; he having succeeded to the throne

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    before he had compleated the ninth month of his age. In the 20th of the same reign, he was retained Governor of the town and castle of Berwick, with the East Marches of Scotland. He married Eleanor the daughter and heiress of Robert Lord Poinings, (who was slain at the siege of Orleans) and in the 25th year of that reign had livery of the possessions of that family. In the 27th year of the same reign, he was summoned to parliament by the title of Lord Poinings; and in the 33d year of King Henry VI. he succeeded to the honours of the Earldom of Northumberland. In the 38th of that reign, he was constituted Justice of all the Forests north of Trent. He was with Queen Margaret in the north, when the King was taken prisoner at the battle of Northampton. She, supported by the Earl, having collected 18,000 men, marched south∣ward to attempt relieving the King, and encountred the Duke of York near Wakefield, in Yorkshire, on the last day of December; in which battle the Duke was slain, and his army vanquished, 2800 being left dead upon the field. From thence the victorious Queen marched south∣ward, and on Shrove Tuesday, at St. Albans, obtained a victory over the forces under the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Warwick, and others who were left to govern the King. By this event he regained his li∣berty; but finding great levies drawing forwards from all quarters in support of Edward, the King with his party prudently retreated to the north. Edward having been proclaimed King by his partizans, by the name of King Edward IV. left London on the 12th of March, leading forth a powerful army to pursue the unfortunate Henry in his re∣treat, and by easy marches arrived at Pomfret, where he rested the troops for some time, appointing the Lord Fitz Walter to keep the pass of Ferrybridge. The Earl of Northumberland, desirous of revenging the death of those whom he dearly loved, was well prepared to receive his enemies; and leaving King Henry with his Queen and son in the city of York, for their greater safety, it was resolved that Ferrybridge at all hazards should be recovered, and the enterprize was committed to the Lord Clifford; who with a competent number of light horsemen departing early from the army on the morning preceding Palm Sunday, made such expedition that he surprized the guard, which he put to the sword, and gained the bridge. The Lord Fitz Walter hearing the noise, rose out of his bed, as did the bastard brother of the Earl of Warwick, presuming there was a mutiny among the soldiers, but soon fell victims to the arms of Clifford. On this Edward thinking loss of time might endanger the rest of his forces, resolved to try his fate, by the imme∣diate issue of a battle. Finding the pass of Ferrybridge too well main∣tained

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    to be attempted, he ordered the van-guard of his army to ford the river three miles above, as Castleford; and attacking the Lord Clif∣ford near Towton, as he was retreating to the main army, surrounded his party, who defended themselves with great bravery till his Lordship was slain, being shot with an arrow through the throat.

    Next day being Palm Sunday, 29th of March, both armies were within sight of each other between Saxton and Towton; King Henry's forces being computed at 60,000, and King Edward's at 48,660. Our Historians have given a particular account of this battle, which lasted three days, and in which were slain on both sides 36,776 persons, all English; whereof the Chiefs were the Earls of Northumberland and West∣moreland. The Earl of Northumberland commanded the van-guard, the snow blowing in the faces of his troops, so that they could not see how to direct their arrows, he led them on to charge sword in hand: a bloody conflict continued for ten hours, in doubtful victory, in which the Earl was killed, but how or by whom is not known. In the succeeding par∣liament he was attainted, and the earldom of Northumberland was con∣ferred on John Nevill, Lord Montacute, brother to Richard Nevill, Earl of Warwick, by patent dated 28th May, 4th King Edward IV. Henry Earl of Northumberland left a son,

    Henry * 17.30 being in his minority when his father was slain, was com∣mitted to the tower of London, till the 27th of October, A. D. 1469, 9th King Edward IV. when he was brought before the King at West∣minster and took the oath of allegiance, whereupon he was set at liberty, and soon after restored to the estates and dignities of his an∣cestors: he was made Warden of the Middle Marches before his resto∣ration in blood and inheritance, and afterwards bore many honour∣able commissions from the crown: he had the chief command of the army in the 22d year of the reign of King Edward IV. which besieged and took Berwick: in the battle of Bosworthfield, in the third year of King Richard III. he is charged (by Hall and Buck) as acting a treacherous part to a sovereign from whom he had received considera∣ble marks of confidence and esteem, by withdrawing his troops, or otherwise standing an idle spectator of the dreadful conflict of that day. It is certain he was immediately received to the favour of King

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    Henry VII. In the fourth year of that reign, being Lieutenant of Yorkshire, he was murdered by the populace at Coxlodge near Thirsk, 28th April, 1489, on enforcing the tax for carrying on the war in Britany. He married Maud daughter to William Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke of that name, by whom he had issue four sons and three daughters. He and his lady were buried at Beverley. On the 15th of September, 1678, this lady's monument was opened* 17.31, (but on what occasion my author doth not say) when the body was found in a stone coffin, embalmed and covered with cloth of gold, and on her feet slip∣pers embroided with silk and gold, by her side a wax lamp, and a plate candlestick with a candle.

    Henry the eldest son, fifth Earl of Northumberland, in the 12th year of King Henry VII. was one of the chief commanders of the King's army in the battle of Blackheath.

    The magnificence of this Earl is mentioned on the marriage of Mar∣garet with the King of Scots, when in splendour he exceeded all the nobility present. Hall says he outdid them

    for the richness of his coat, being goldsmiths work garnished with pearle and stones; and for the costly apparel of his henxmen, and gallant trappers of their horses; besides 400 tall men well horsed, and apparel'd in his col∣lars: he was esteemed both of the Scots and Englishmen, more like a prince than a subject.
    He had also with him his officer of arms, named Northumberland, arrayed in a livery of velvet, bearing his armorial ensignia.

    On the accession of Henry VIII. he was continued in the office of Warden of the Marches, which he had filled in the preceding reign. He served in the French campaign, and was present at the battle of Spurs. In the 14th of King Henry VIII. he was made Warden of the whole Marches, which office he executed for a very short time; at his own instance giving place to the Earl of Surry. He died in the 18th of King Henry VIII. and was buried at Beverley. He married Catharine daughter and coheiress of Sir Robert Spencer, by Eleanor daughter and at length heiress of Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, by Eleanor his wife daughter and heir of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who was great grandson of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lan∣caster.

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    The Earl had issue three sons, Henry, Thomas* 17.32, and Ingeham† 17.33, and two daughters, Margaret‡ 17.34 and Maud.§ 17.35

    It may be agreeable to the reader in this place, to find an account of the Earl's houshold, as it points out the fashion of the age, as well as the magnificence of the family.

    Gentlemen who wait before noon, 6; yeomen and grooms of the chamber who wait before noon, 10; yeomen officers, 4; and groom officers, 4; servants to wait in the great chamber, in the morning daily throughout the week, from six to ten of the clock, 20; gentle∣men to wait in the afternoon, 7; yeomen of the chamber, yeomen waiters, and grooms of the chamber to wait in the afternoon daily, 7; yeomen of houshold and groom officers of houshold, which shall not attend after supper, 8; yeomen officers and groom officers of houshold to wait in the afternoon, 4; gentlemen to wait after supper, 13; yeomen waiters and grooms of the chamber to wait after supper, 17; chaplains and priests in houshold, 11; gentlemen and children of my Lord's chapel, attending in exercising of God's service in the chapel daily at matins, lady mass, high mass, and even song, 17; yeomen officers, groom officers, and grooms in houshold, not ap∣pointed to attend because of others their business, which they attend daily in their offices in my Lord's house, 27; an armourer; a groom of the chamber to Lord Percy, to wait hourly in his chamber; a groom for brushing and dressing his cloaths; a groom of the cham∣ber to his Lordship's two younger sons; a groom of the styrrup; a groom sumpter man, to dress the sumpter horses and my Lady's pal∣freys; a groom to dress my Lord's hobbeys and nags; a groom of the stable; a groom to keep my Lord's hounds; a groom miller for grinding corn for baking and brewing; a groom porter for keeping the gates; a groom for driving his Lordship's chariot, and a keeper of the said chariot horses; clerks in my Lord's house, not appointed daily to attend, because of making their books, which they are

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    charged with to write hourly upon, 7; servants belonging to gentle∣men in his Lordship's house, 10; servants and gentlemen servants not appointed to wait because of other their business, which they at∣tend on daily for his Lordship, 44: in all 229.
    * 17.36

    The sixth Earl Henry was deeply in love with the fair Anne Bullen, but by the art of Cardinal Woolsey, and even the royal interposition, was withdrawn from an attachment, which it is said gave great anxiety to the Sovereign. Notwithstanding the Earl's early affection for the Cardinal, in 1530, he was one of the King's Commissioners to arrest him for high treason. He was Warden of the East and Middle Marches, and one of the Knights of the Garter. He married Mary daughter of George Earl of Shrewsbury, and died without issue.

    As his brother Thomas had been attainted, the earldom of Northum∣berland for some time remained dormant: Queen Mary restored Thomas the nephew to the honours and estates of his ancestors, the patent set∣ting forth that the same was done

    in consideration of his noble descent, con∣stancy of virtues, valour in deeds of arms, and other shining qualifications.
    The ceremony of his creation at Whitehall was attended with great pomp: the procession was preceded by 8 heralds and 12 trumpeters: he was accompanied by the Earls of Pembroke, Arundel, and Rutland, and the Lord Montague, walking in the middle, dressed in robes of crimson velvet, a hat of crimson velvet, and a coronet of gold. He was joined with Lord Wharton as Wardens General of the Marches, with very extensive powers, A. D. 1557. He commanded against the Scots who made an incursion the same year, and giving them battle near Cheviot, obtained a compleat victory: Sir John Forster was shot through the mouth, and had his horse killed under him. Sir Andrew Kerr, the Scotch leader, was taken prisoner. He with his brother Henry having entered Scotland in the following year, obtained a victory over the Scotch near Swinton; and the same year engaged the French auxiliaries with equal success, near Grindon. In jealousy of Lord Cecil's power with Queen Elizabeth, he entered into the northern conspiracy, and at length appeared in open rebellion. It would be inconsistent with my plan, in this place to speak upon that matter; it will suffice to add, that the Earl having fled into Scotland, was betrayed and delivered up, and in the 13th year of Queen Elizabeth, he and his Countess were convicted of high treason and out∣lawed;

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    and on the 22d of August, 1572, he was beheaded at York, avowing with his last breath the Pope's supremacy, affirming the realm to be in a schism, and the subjects who were obedient to the Queen, no better than heretics.* 17.37 He married Ann daughter of Henry Somerset, Earl of Worcester, by whom he had one son and five daughters: the son died without issue.

    The patent of restoration made by Queen Mary having limited the titles and estates to the late Earl's heirs male, and in default of such issue, to Henry Percy, the Earl's brother, in the 18th of Queen Eliza∣beth, he was summoned to parliament by the distinction of Earl of Nor∣thumberland and Baron Percy.

    On his brother's defection, he stood loyal to the Queen, and with Sir John Forster, commanded the troops which on the 9th of Decem∣ber, in the 12th of Queen Elizabeth, routed the Earl of Westmoreland's forces in the bishopric of Durham. In the 27th year of Queen Elizabeth, being suspected of plotting to set at liberty the Queen of Scots, he was committed prisoner to the Tower; and on the 21st of June, was found dead in his bed, having three shots from a pistol lodged under his left pap, his chamber door being fastened on the inside. He married Ca∣tharine eldest daughter and coheiress of John Nevill, Lord Latimer, by whom he had issue eight sons and three daughters. Henry his eldest son succeeded him, the ninth Earl of Northumberland.

    He was one of those volunteer Lords who hired vessels to accompany Charles Lord Howard, Lord High Admiral, against the Spanish Armada. Being suspected as an accomplice in the Gunpowder Plot, he suffered a long and grievous confinement in the Tower;† 17.38 his sentence being an

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    imprisonment for life, and a fine of 30,000l. though he was convicted in the Star Chamber for misprision of treason only. In 1614, he paid his fine, but he did not gain his liberty till the 18th of July, 1621, having been confined 15 years.

    In the 4th year of King Charles I. he obtained a confirmation to him and the heirs male of his body, of the title and dignity of Baron Percy, in as ample a manner as his ancestors had enjoyed the same. He died at his seat at Petworth, on the 5th of November, 1632. He married Dorothy daughter of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, by whom he had issue four sons and two daughters. His two eldest sons dying in in∣fancy, he was succeeded in title and estates by his third son, Algernon.* 17.39

    Algernon the 10th Earl of Northumberland was about 30 years of age when he succeeded to the honours of his ancestors. Lord Clarendon says,

    that the King took him into his immediate and eminent care, and prosecuted him with all manner and demonstration of respect and kindness; and (as he heard his Majesty himself say) courted him as his mistress, and conversed with him as his friend, without the least interruption or inter∣mission of any possible favour and kindness.
    On the 13th May, 11 King

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    Charles I. he was installed one of the Knights of the Garter. He was made Lord High Admiral, for his services against the Dutch in 1636. He bore the following titles:

    Lord of the honours of Cockermouth and Petworth, Lord Percy, Lucy, Poinings, Fitz-Aine, Bryan, and Latimer, Knight of the Garter, Lord High Admiral of England, Ireland, and Wales, and of the dominions and isles of the same; of the town of Cales and Marches of the same; of Normandy, Gascony, and Aquitaine; Lord General of the navy and seas of the said kingdoms of England and Ire∣land; one of the Lords of his Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Coun∣cil; Lord Lieutenant of Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, and Captain General of the army to act against the Scots.
    He at∣tended King Charles I. into Scotland, on his coronation. In the 11th year of that reign, he was installed one of the Knights of the Garter; and in the 13th year he was made Lord High Admiral of England. In the 15th, he was made Captain General of the army. In 1639, his Lordship was at the head of state affairs. In a letter to the Earl of Leicester, he thus expressed his sentiments of public matters:
    It grieves my soul to be involved in these councils; and the sense I have of the miseries that are like to ensue, is held by some a disaffection in me; but I regard little what those persons say.
    In 1643, he with the Earls of Pembroke and Salisbury, with several Members of the House of Commons, were indicted of high treason at Salisbury, before Judges Heath, Forster, and Glanvill, for assisting the parliament; but they could not induce the jury to find the bill. On the 17th of May, 1645, by order of the Lords, the Earl and his Countess were directed to take care of the King's children. His Lordship, though acting under many commissions of parliament, detested the cruel murder of his Majesty, and did his utmost to obstruct it."* 17.40 After which he retired from public busi∣ness, living at his seat at Petworth, waiting for a favourable opportu∣nity to restore King Charles II. in which he took an active part. He was twice married; by Anne daughter of William Cecil, Earl of Salis∣bury, his first wife, he had five daughters. By Elizabeth daughter to Theophilus Earl of Suffolk, he had issue, Josceline his only son and suc∣cessor. He died the 13th October, 1688, and was interred at Petworth.

    Josceline the eleventh Earl of Northumberland married the Lady Eliza∣beth, daughter of Thomas Earl of Southampton, Lord High Treasurer of England. He was made Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of

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    the county of Sussex, and Lord Lieutenant of the county of Northum∣berland. On the 21st May, 1670, he died at Turin, was brought to England, and interred at Petworth. He had issue an only son, Henry, who died in infancy, and two daughters, Elizabeth and Henrietta, the latter of which died at four years of age.

    The Lady Elizabeth had three husbands; the first, Henry Cavendish, Earl of Ogle, son and heir to the Duke of Newcastle. Her second hus∣band was Thomas Thynne, Esq And her third, his Grace Charles Duke of Somerset. By the latter her Ladyship had issue, Algernon Earl of Hert∣ford, afterwards Duke of Somerset, and by creation Earl of Northum∣berland, who left an only daughter and heir, the late Duchess of Nor∣thumberland.

    In this present illustrious family, live all the heroic virtues of their ancestors. I must give a place to the following oration, spoken at Guild∣hall, Westminster, by the Reverend Mr Bennet, on Tuesday July the 30th, 1776, on placing the picture of Earl Percy in the council cham∣ber of that hall.

    Gentlemen,

    Notwithstanding your worthy Chairman has so fully expatiated. on the cause of this chearful and respectable meeting, I feel myself animated, not less from inclination than duty, to offer a few words with your permission, on the present occasion.

    Public virtues and singular acts of greatness, have ever kindled in the mind of man, an ardent desire of beholding the persons, or repre∣sentations of those in whom they shone: hence examples of great and generous actions, have been continually handed down to posterity for their imitation, and incitement to glory:—hence Caesar—hence Cato live; and their virtues remain unsullied by the grave, amidst the rust of time.

    Rome had its heroes—Britain boasts of hers; and when Percy is no more, that picture shall record his deeds.

    At a time when the supreme legislative authority of parliament over the whole British empire was called in question; at a time when

    Page 243

    discord, disobedience, nay rebellion itself prevailed in America;—at a time when dissipation and every species of luxury pervaded this great nation, and its direful influence was visibly increasing;—Earl Percy, disdaining every consideration that was unconnected with the com∣mon weal, boldly stood forth a champion for his country, a friend to his King, and enemy to those who had fallen from their duty.

    It was not wealth, gentlemen, that could urge him to so dangerous an undertaking—Fortune had placed him above the pursuit of it:— it could not be ambition, for rank and titles were already his own; —but it was public spirit that called him forth;—for he had all to lose, but nothing to gain;—nothing but the true interest of his country to acquire. He gave up his own safety, he made a sacrifice of every thing;—pleasures, profit, and interest—all were subservient to the common good.

    Without flattery, gentlemen, I may assert Rome would have gloried in such a real Patriot; Rome would have rejoiced to have seen one of their Nobility so strenuous in their country's cause.

    But this was not all; and what I have said would bear but little resemblance to that great man, were I not to take notice of his un∣bounded humanity as well as public spirit.

    His tenderness in a time of the greatest calamity; his readiness in sharing whatever his ample fortune afforded him with the common soldier, the widow, and the orphan, has raised his name almost above the reach of praise.

    Great as his own distress was, he overlooked it, in commiserating and relieving that of others: indeed every humane and generous fea∣ture of the noble Duke his father, are clearly seen in the actions of the son.

    But it is not to be wondered at, gentlemen, that humanity, genero∣sity, and magnificence, should shine forth with so much lustre in the noble Earl, when they are the acknowledged characteristics of the House of Northumberland.

    Page 244

    The town of Alnwick * 18.1 is irregular, being built on the declivities of a hill, in various directions: the buildings are chiefly modern, and

    Page 245

    some of them approach to elegance. It is the county town of Northumber∣land, and an unrepresented borough, governed by a Bailiff (nominated by his Grace; his authority derived from the obsolete office of Con∣stable of the Castle) and four Chamberlains, chosen annually out of the freemen of the town. The freedom of this borough was one of King John's institutions, who in a ridiculous humour ordained, that it should be obtained by passing through a deep and miry pond, on the Town Moor,* 20.4 upon St. Mark's day; which still to render more ludicrous, the candidate is to perform in white cloathing; and sometimes it is ef∣fected with the utmost peril. What immunities or privileges are gained by this unhappy mode of accession, I never could learn: the trade of Alnwick, with every advantage of exclusive exercise, is insignificant,

    Page 246

    and the appendages of the borough are of no great moment.* 20.5 The town was walled round by Henry Lord Percy, in the reign of King Henry VI. having four gates guarded by square towers; three of which still remain, Bondgate used for a prison, Clayport for a poor-house, and Pottergate dismantled and falling to decay. This borough holds a weekly market on Saturday, and four annual fairs, on the 12th of May, the last Monday in July, the first Monday in October, and on the 24th of December. The Market-place is well situated near the centre of the town, and greatly ornamented by the public buildings lately given by his Grace: among which are the Market-house, in the Gothic style, highly finished and decorated, the Shambles, and Font. There is an ancient and immemorial custom retained here, on the proclamation of the several fairs: Divers adjacent townships, which are free of toll in the borough by this service, send their Representatives to attend the Bailiff on the eve of the fair, when he makes proclamation: after which they keep watch all night in every quarter of the town.† 20.6 This is the most perfect remains of watch and ward retained in any part of this county.

    Here is a School endowed with a revenue arising out of the tolls; but to which of the Lords of Alnwick it owes its constitution, I have gained no certain information.‡ 20.7

    This town was subject to all the miseries of the Border Wars, and in 1448, was reduced to ashes by the Scots.

    Page 247

    The Church stands a little distance from the town, retaining no very distinguishing marks of antiquity.* 20.8 In the south aile is a tomb formed in the recess of the wall, with three recumbent effigies; but of what personages, no inscription or tradition discovers: probably they repre∣sent some of the family of Veseys, who were founders or great bene∣factors.

    Here are two Dissenting Meeting-houses, and a modern Westlean Conventicle.

    An Hospital was founded here by the Percies, in the reign of King Edward III. dedicated to St. Leonard; and by Henry Lord Percy, (the first of that name) afterwards Earl of Northumberland, made an ap∣pendage to the abbey, 50 Edward III.† 20.9

    The attention there is given by the Duke's servants, resident at the castle, to satisfy the inquiries and curiosity of travellers, afforded us an easy access to the pleasure grounds which lead to Huln Abbey.‡ 20.10 The road we passed is calculated for the family's private use and retirement; but such is his Grace's benevolence to the public, that the eye of the

    Page 248

    curious is not excluded from those beautiful scenes. The way to Huln forms one of the sweetest and most romantic rides in the county; where nature has left the lands open, art has happily disposed her works with the justest taste, to supply the vacancy. The entrance is by a steep de∣scent to the vale, through which the river winds its course. The road by traversing the hills obliquely, renders the way easy to the passenger: it is cloathed on each hand with plantations of various kinds of forest trees, mingled with great judgment, and so disposed, that the pines and evergreens give an agreeable variegation of colour in the foliage, without deadening the scene. Nothing can be more gloomy than long-extended lines of dusky firs, which, as the Poet * 20.11 justly observes,

    blot the horizon.
    These plantations are bordered on each side of the road with a variety of flowering shrubs and tufts of flowers. After passing this agreeable grove by irregular windings, we descended into a plain washed by the solemn stream of sleepy Aln, which scarce appears to flow, so dull it seems, in this romantic valley, shut in on every hand by lofty eminences, covered with wood, forming a spacious theatre near two miles in circuit. On the right hand the river forms a semi∣circle, the opposite shore composed of shaken and perpendicular rocks, over whose brink impends a forest of oaks, rising shade above shade up to the crown of the mountains. As the Aln passes away from this sweet vale, and glides from under the feet of those romantic rocks, she doth not even yield a murmur or a sigh; except where constrained by some artificial wears, she turns over with indolence, and falls again to sleep on the succeeding lake.

    After passing this plain, the vale grows narrow, the hills and woods are loftier, and the river here and there frets over a few pebbles which im∣pede her passage. Here is every sylvan beauty; here we tasted enjoy∣ment of all the pleasures of a woody scene—the richness of the forest hues, the deep shadow, and the refreshing breeze perfumed by wood∣bine—together with that solemnity and stillness which sooth the con∣templative mind.

    As we winded thro' this deep valley, the prospect at length opened upon the scite of Huln Abbey: on the left hand the landskip was ab∣ruptly closed with rugged mountains of naked white rocks; opposed to

    Page 249

    which, on the right, on a grassy eminence, stand the remains of the monastery, humbly mourning in the lowly garb of solitude, and bending down in ruins: over which a tower of the Percys bears the melancholy air of unavailing defence, and overlooks the mouldering walls with an aspect of despondency, in its inability to shield off the strokes of time and devastation. We ascended to the summit of the hill, and being possessed of the keys, by which alone we could have had access to these retreats, we flattered ourselves no obstacle could arise that might deprive us of the sight of the ruins of this religious house, and every thing curious there; but the whole is enclosed with a lofty wall, the interior ground being disposed in gardening: we found the keeper of this place a little man, of a mean and insolent aspect; he heard our request with the door in his hand, after which, with a contemptuous silence, he walked in and turned the key against us, as if he was afraid we should discover some theft he was committing against his Lord. Thus excluded and looking ridiculous enough, we could do nothing more than ride round the walls, by which we ob∣served that the ruins chiefly consisted of a small chapel, wanting little besides a roof: the tower a square building, with exploratory turrets at each corner, is in good repair, fitted up as a pleasure room, command∣ing a beautiful prospect, as we could sufficiently judge from our lower situation.

    The view from this eminence into the vale which we had passed, was singularly beautiful: the ragged, rocky, and barren mountain, which now lay on our right, afforded a bold contrast to the hanging forests and the planted eminences which intersected the winding val∣ley: the Aln was seen in meanders down the nearer and narrow dell, and in the extended distant plain the waters formed a fine lucid cres∣cent, the canal being then happily touched by the sun's beams; the heights cloathed with oaks, the lower hills girt with plantations of various hues, the bold rocks pushing forth their fronts from out the wood, all mingled with that irregularity and wildness nature alone can display in these hilly countries, formed this beautiful landskip.* 20.12

    Page 250

    I will pursue the account given by Mr Grose of this Abbey, as the most perfect one extant.

    Hulne was the first monastery of Carmelite Friars in this kingdom. The account of its foundation is thus given by ancient writers: Among the British Barons who went to the Holy Wars in the reign of King Henry III. were William de Vesey Lord of Alnwick, and Richard Gray, two eminent chieftains in the christian army: led by curiosity or devotion, they went to visit the Monks of Mount Carmel, and there unexpectedly found a country∣man of their own, one Ralph Fresborn, a Northumberland-man, who had distinguished himself in a former crusade; and in conse∣quence of a vow had afterwards taken upon him the monastic pro∣fession in that solitude. When Vesey and Gray returned to England, they strongly importuned the superior of the Carmelites to let their countryman accompany them home; which was at length granted, upon condition that they would found a monastery for Carmelites in their own country. Soon after their return, Fresborn, mindful of their engagement, began to look out for a place for their Convent. After examining all the circumjacent solitudes, he at length fixed upon the present spot, induced, it is said, by the great resemblance which the adjoining hill bore to Mount Carmel: and indeed whoever looks into Maundril's travels, will find that the draught of that mountain, given in his book, bears a strong likeness to this be∣fore us.

    The above William de Vesey gave a grant of the ground, con∣sisting of twelve or thirteen acres, in his park of Holne; but Fres∣born is said to have erected the building himself. The foundation was laid about A. D. 1240, and Fresborn gathering a proper number of Monks, became the first Abbot of the Order; and having pre∣sided here with great reputation of sanctity, at length died, and was buried in the monastery about the year 1274.

    The original grant of William de Vesey, was confirmed by his successors Veseys; and by the Percies, after their becoming proprietors of Alnwick: many additional privileges and immunities were added by the succeeding grants, particularised in Mr Grose's work, but too

    Page 251

    tedious to take place, except only such as are singularly curious fol∣lowing.

    Also all wild bees, with their fruits of honey and wax, found in Walse and in Holne, as well in the park as in the forest, for the per∣petual support of the light in their church; with a provision against the said Friars being defrauded of the said bees, wax, and honey, by the foresters and shepherds there. They shall also have yearly, out of the Lord's coney warren of Houghton, one truss of conies at Easter, and another at the assumption of the blessed Mary. And certain quantities of rushes, and twelve loads of broom, to cover their houses.

    Henry Percy, 4th Earl of Northumberland, built in this abbey, a fine tower, as a place of refuge for the Monks to retire to in times of danger. Near it is this curious inscription, in ancient English.

    [figure]

    I

    n the year of Crist Ihu mccccxxVIII
    This Towr was bilded by Sir hen Percy The fourth Earl of Northūberlād of gret hon̄ & worth That Espoused Maud ye good Lady full of vertue & bewt̄ Daughtr to Sr. Will̄m harbirt noble & hardy Erle of Pembrock whos soulis god save And with his grace cōsarve the builder of this Towr.

    The annual value of this house is not given by Tanner. Some of the buildings are fitted up and inhabited by servants, who take care of an aviary which his Grace has established here. The other parts are decorated with plantations of various trees and shrubs, so as to afford a delightful point of view, from every station whence they are visible.
    * 20.13

    From an ancient survey which Mr Grose copies, made in 1567, it appears

    that the cloister is square; in the midst thereof groweth a

    Page 252

    tree of ewe. It is well paved with stone about the said cloyster, the windowes haith bene all glasyned, and now for the most parte are in decaye."—"The place where the church was in now full of cherry trees."—"In the garden groweth one pear tree, and all the rest be plome trees and bullester trees.

    Mr Wallis says, the famous Biographer, John Bale, lived and studied here, being a member of this little society.

    Returning from Hulne by the same road, we passed down to

    ALNWICK ABBEY,

    now the seat of Michael Doubleday, Esq. This was formerly an Abbey of Premonstratensian Canons, (Dugdale calls it a Priory) dedicated to St. James and the blessed Virgin. It was founded in 1147, by Eustace Fitz John, who by his marriage with Beatrix the daughter of Ivo de Vesey, became Lord of the barony of Alnwick. He endowed it amply.* 20.14

    The charter of foundation, included in a confirmatory charter of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, is addressed to William de Sta Barbara, Bishop of Durham. Among the souls for whose benefit it was erected, is mentioned that of Ivo de Vesci. Dugdale and Stephens do not agree touching the time when this order of Religious came first into England. From Dugdale's authority, it is said that the first of that order came to settle at Alnwick in the year 1147; but Stephens, from the authority of Raynerus, says the order first came over in 1146, and settled at Newhouse, in Lincolnshire, in their monastery built by Peter de Saulia, dedicated to St. Martialis.

    Page 253

    In the chronicle of this house, preserved in the library of King's Col∣lege, Cambridge, there is an account of a Banquet given by Walter de Hepescotes, the Abbot, A. D. 1376, on the day of the assumption of the blessed Virgin Mary, to Henry the 4th Lord of Alnwick, with the 13 fol∣lowing Knights, William de Acon, Richard Tempest, Walter Blount, Allan de Heton, John Coniers, John Heron, John Littleburum, Thomas de Ilderton, Thomas de Boynton, Ingram de Umfravil, John de Dichaunt, John de Swyn∣ton, Radulphus de Viners, and many others of the chief gentry of the country, amounting to 120, all entertained in the refectory; beside 86 at a second repast. The cloisters too were filled with inferior people of all ages, to the number of 1020, who were likewise there feasted.* 20.15

    It appears from the same authority, that divers of the Percys were in∣terred here; particularly Henry the second Lord of Alnwick, who died in 1351: Henry the third Lord, who bestowed on the Monks 100l. at his death, A. D. 1368; also Mary his wife, daughter of the Earl of Lancas∣ter. Henry the fourth Lord of Alnwick, A. D. 1372, was admitted in the month of February to the Brotherhood of this Chapter, together with divers other Knights and Esquires; as also, in the succeeding year, Henry his eldest son, with his two brothers, Thomas and Radulphus.

    During the Abbacy of Walter de Hepescotes, this house was afflicted with a great scarcity, together with a pestilence, whereby all the cattle belonging to the monastery were destroyed. In this chronicle the fol∣lowing Abbots are mentioned: John, who died in 1350; Walter, who resigned his office in 1362, and was succeeded by Robert; and Walter de Hepescotes, A. D. 1376.† 20.16

    The Abbot of this house was summoned to the parliaments of the 23d, 24th, 28th, 32d, and 34th of King Edward I. also to that held at

    Page 254

    Carlisle, 35th of the same reign; and to the parliament of the 19th King Edward II.* 20.17

    Page 255

    At the dissolution the revenues of this house were valued at 189l. 15s. by Dugdale, and 194l. 7s. by Speed, there being then 13 Canons. King Edward VI. in the 4th year of his reign, granted the scite to Sadler and Winnington. It came afterwards to the possession of the Brandling fa∣mily, and the Doubledays from whom the present owner is descended, derived their title by purchase from the Brandlings. This is a sweet though deep retirement, on the banks of Aln, defended by lofty hills to the north and west.

    [figure] depiction of Alnwick Abbey gateway
    ALNWICK ABBEY GATEWAY

    There are no remains of the Abbey, but a Gateway and Tower, which by the architecture and arms sculptured upon the building, shew it is of much more modern date than the foundation of the house. This tower is not square, but oblong, having an exploratory turret on each corner. The north side is ornamented with a nich, canopy'd, capable of receiving a statue five feet high: most probable it contained the effi∣gies of the dedicatory Virgin. Beneath is a figure of an angel in relief, with expanded wings. Over this entrance are shields of arms, a cross, supposed to be the arms of the Veseys, and a cross molin. On the south side, in a nich, is the figure of one of the Religious, of the order of White Friars of Premonstratenses, in his proper habilament, in pretty good preservation. This front is ornamented with shields of arms, the arms of Brabant adopted by the Percys, with the arms of Lucys quar∣terly, the principal; and also the arms of Vesey.

    Page 256

    A gate opens to the east, on each side of which are the figures of cherubs supporting armorial shields: on this front is also a canopy and nich for a statue. Here are the arms of Brabant and the arms of Lucys on separate shields. At this entrance, as also on the north side, were machicolations; and in the center of the arching of the gateway is a square aperture, from whence the possessors could annoy assailants. The masonry of this tower is excellent; the gates of lattice braced with iron still remain.

    Above the gate going into the court of the house, is an escutcheon of white marble, much injured by the weather, but retaining some marks of the Sculptor, to distinguish that it once contained the crest of the Doubledays, an arm in armour suspending a mullet. The antiquity of this piece has been much doubted, but the materials determine that point clearly.

    This seat of the Doubleday family has nothing very singular to mark it, but the beauty of the retirement, under the hanging woods of the river Aln. The ground plot of the religious house is now included in the orchard; the ruins of which probably afforded materials for the pre∣sent mansion; but there are not the least remains to denote the exact scite of the monastic buildings, or the place of interment of the illustri∣ous personages before mentioned.

    Solemn situations like this, and the ruins of religious houses, always affect my mind with a degree of languishment. Such a seclusion, such a retirement, would have filled my wish. The life of the Ecclesiastic is most desirable, and seems calculated to be the happiest. No natural tendency to indolence and ease prompts this determination; but the se∣renity of a Churchman's life, under the entire preclusion of all worldly concerns, affords that tranquillity of mind, so necessary to contemplation and study, to philosophic researches, and divine meditation—without the poison of ambition, some minds can enjoy a mediocrity with con∣tent—without an impertinent wish to intermeddle with public affairs, some men can sit within the little mansion, busied only in pious duties and contemplations; and amidst domestic peace, living each day, in gratitude for the enjoyment of the rural beauties of some sylvan scene, the plain, the mead, the grotto, and the stream—call it luxury: but the busy world incessantly rolls the heavy wheels of care too near my threshold—I am frequently induced to adopt Horace's description:

    [figure]

    Page [unnumbered]

    [figure] depiction of Warkworth Castle
    WARKWORTH CASTLE.

    Page 257

    Agricolam laudat juris legumque peritus, Sub Galli cantum, Consultor ubi Ostia pulsat.
    And a thousand times am induced to follow his precept,
    —Rebus omissis, Atria servantem postico falle clientem.

    We passed from Alnwick Abbey to

    WARKWORTH,

    the roads agreeable, and the country finely cultivated. In the way, we had a view of the port of

    ALEMOUTH.

    This was a dependent manor of the barony of Alnwick. The town is small, but carries on a considerable trade in the export of corn and other produce of the country. The imports are chiefly timber, and some merchandize from Holland. Near the sea, on an eminence, are the remains of a church in the form of a cross. When this edifice was de∣stroyed, or by whom, is not known. The church-yard is still used for sepulture.* 20.18 We approached the town of Warkworth by a fine stone bridge of three arches over the river Coquet, anciently defended by a tower with an iron gate and portcullis.

    THE CASTLE OF WARKWORTH

    stands on a lofty eminence, the town of Warkworth lying on the nor∣thern inclination of the hill, and forming a pleasing, though steep ap∣proach to the, castle: the street is wide, and contains some modern buildings. This access gives the fortress an august appearance.† 20.19

    Page 258

    An account of this place, published in the Newcastle Courant in the year 1772, contains the following particulars:

    It is about three quar∣ters of a mile from the sea. The principal street stands upon a rising ground, at the higher end of which, upon an eminence, are the re∣mains of an ancient castle. The market place is in the middle of the town, where is a fine stone cross on a spacious area at the meeting of two streets, the one leading to the church, which is an elegant struc∣ture, whose spire is upwards 100 feet high; the other to the bridge, where is an ancient tower. Contiguous to the bridge is a large free∣stone quarry, the stones of which are so much esteemed, that great quantities thereof are shipped for London. The salmon fishery here is carried to a very great extent, so that at the mouth of the Coquet, in the summer season, as well as in the river itself, are some thousands caught, which gives employment to a number of hands. The river, which almost surrounds the town, directs its course in a straight line for about half a mile, then leaving the fine and pleasant villas of Glosterhill and Amble on its southern banks, while it loses itself in the ocean. In the year 1764, it left its old course, and forced its way between two sandy hills overgrown with bent, that had ob∣structed its passage for ages, and is now settled in a very deep channel, with a fine clay bottom, which makes it navigable for small craft. It is said there is upwards of 14 feet of water upon the bar at full sea, and continues that depth very near the town; so that with a little assistance of art, it might be made to admit ships of a consi∣derable burthen; and as Coquet Island is situated a little to the south∣ward, forms a fine bay at the very mouth of the river. The grounds adjoining thereto abound with a fine seam of coal; and so plentiful is corn, that few counties can equal its fertility. From these consi∣derations, what pity it is that Warkworth was not made a sea-port, since nature has almost half finished the design.

    This little borough is governed by a Mayor, who is chosen annually at a Court Leet, and enjoys great privileges by an extensive common, the property of the village, and some little indulgencies from his Grace the Duke of Northumberland; and as the town consists all of free burgesses, is capable of great improvements.
    * 20.20

    Page 259

    The castle stands on the crown of a rock, of an oblong figure; the great tower to the north, placed on the brink of the cliff above the town, is of fine architecture in chisel-work, of a singular figure, being octangular, and from the center of four opposite sides, a turret projects, of a semi-hexagonal form; from the middle of the building a very lofty exploratory turret arises. This part of the castle owes its origin to the Percys, as appears by the Lion of Brabant above the gate, and the arms dispersed over the building. The western side is formed of various irregular towers and walling of different ages, extending along the brink of the cliff, whose foot is washed by the river Coquet. On the south, the ground rises gradually to the height of the rocks on which the western buildings are founded. This side of the castle fronts to a spacious plain or platform, and is defended by a high wall with an outward moat. The ancient gateway and chief entrance to the castle is on this side; the gate defended by circular towers and a draw bridge. The eastern side is placed on the brink of a steep declivity, defended by an outward moat, and a lofty wall guarded by a square bastion near the center, and an angular tower at the south point. The walls enclose a spacious area, almost square, within which the ancient parts of the fortress are very ruinous.

    The view from hence is so extensive and various, that description can carry but a very imperfect idea of its members or its beauties: to the east and north-east, there is a sea prospect, with which you take in all the shore we had traversed, with Dunstanbrough and Bambrough Castles at the most distant point of land: the Farn Islands lie scattered like patches on the face of the waters. The port of Alemouth is a nearer object, and at a little distance the mouth of the river Coquet and Coquet Island with its ruined monastery are seen. To the north, you view a rich cultivated country to Alnwick; westward, the banks of Coquet river, graced with little woodlands, which here and there impend on its winding channel; to the south, you view an extensive plain, in∣clining towards the sea, crowded with villages, and interspersed with woods; the shore indented by many little ports and creeks; the higher grounds are scattered over with innumerable hamlets, churches, and other buildings, mingling with a variety highly pleasing; whilst on the extreme distance, the different teints of the landskip, arising from va∣rious objects, require colours to convey their picture to the mind.

    Mr Grose, who has given two views of this castle in his excellent work, says,

    nothing can be more magnificent and picturesque, from

    Page 260

    what part soever it is viewed; and though when entire it was far from being destitute of strength, yet its appearance does not excite the idea of one of those rugged fortresses destined solely for war, whose gloomy towers suggest to the imagination only dungeons, chains, and executions: but rather that of such an ancient hospitable mansion as is alluded to by Milton,
    Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold In weeds of peace high triumphs hold.

    The castle and mote, according to an ancient survey, contained 5 acres 17¾ perches of ground. Its walls on the south, east, and west sides are garnished with towers. The great gate of the castle is on the south side, between two polygonal towers, and is also defended with ma∣chicolations.

    The keep or dungeon forms the north front; its figure is a square with the angles canted off. Near the middle of each face of this square there is a turret, projecting at right angles, its end terminating in a semi-hexagon: these projections are of the same height as the rest of the keep. This keep is very large and lofty, and contains a variety of magnificent apartments.

    Mr Grose gives the copy of a survey taken of this castle in 1567, of which some extracts may be pertinent here.

    The Buyldinge of the sayd castell on the sowth parte is thre towres, viz. the Gatehouse towre in the middle thereof, which ys the entrye at a draw bridge over drye moyte; and in the same toure ys a prison and porter lodge, and over the same a fare lodging, called the constables lodgings; and in the curtayne is a fayre and comely building, a chapel, and divers houses of office, and above the great chambre and the Lordes lodginge. On the west side, the posterne towre, and the old hall, which was very fare at the entrye into the hall, for the porche thereof is raysed a little square towre, wherein is two chambres; and on the foresyd, in stone, portrayed a lyon, verie workmanly wrought, and therefore called the lyon towre. In the easte syde of the great hall, was an ile set owt, with pyllers, which yet standeth. The doungion is in the northe parte of the scyte of the sayd Castell, set upon a little mount highyer than the rest of the cowrte; steppes of a greas before ye enter to yt: and the same ys buyld as a foure square, and owt of every square one towre; all which be so quar∣terly

    Page 261

    squared together, that in the syght every parte appeareth five towres, very finely wrought of mason-work: and in the same con∣teyned as well a fayre hall, kytchinge, and all other houses of offices, verie fare and apteley placed, as also great chambre, chapel, and lodgings for the Lord and his trayn. The castell is envyroned on thre partes with the sayd ryver; and of the northe parte, in an an∣gle within the sayd water is situate a towne called the borough of Warkworth, and the parish church, &c.

    Warkworth was formerly the barony of Roger Fitz Richard, who held it by the service of one Knight's fee, of the grant of King Henry II. He married Eleanor, one of the daughters and coheiresses of Henry de Essex, Baron of Raleigh and Clavering.* 20.21 It continued in this family for several successive generations. John, in obedience to King Edward I. by his command, took upon him the surname of Clavering. In consi∣deration of certain grants of lands in the southern counties, he made over to King Edward II. the reversion in fee of his barony and castle of Warkworth,† 20.22 provided he should die without issue male. This reversion King Edward III. granted to Henry Lord Percy, from whom these pos∣sessions have descended to the present Duke of Northumberland.

    The church is a handsome building, ornamented with a spire, the inside very neat. There is a monument with the recumbent effigy of a Knight Templar, with an inscription intimating that the personage there interred was Sir Hugh de Morwick, who gave the common to the town of Warkworth.

    In a window of one of the ailes, is painted the figures of St. Hilda and an attendant female.

    Leland says, Warkworth was much resorted to by Merchants. At present there is no navigation on the Coquet, though it is said to be practicable to bring up small craft to the bridge. The town is entitled

    Page 262

    to a weekly market on Thursday, and three annual fairs on the Thurs∣days preceding St. George's, St. Lawrence's, and St. Martin's days.

    We passed up the river Coquet about three quarters of a mile to the

    [figure] depiction of Warkworth Hermitage
    HERMITAGE at WARKWORTH.
    HERMITAGE.

    The approach is kept in neat order, but still retains its original form; a narrow walk on the brink of the river, which at this place flows without any troubled current, leads to the door of the Hermitage;* 20.23 lofty perpendicular rocks on the other hand confining the walk to about the width of four feet. From the summit of the cliffs a grove

    Page 263

    of oaks is suspended, giving a solemn shade; and at their feet issues a spring of the purest water, which formerly supplied the Recluse. The steps, vestibule, and chief apartments of the Hermitage, are hewn out of the bosom of a free-stone rock, whose outside face is about 20 feet high, embowered with stately trees, which impend from the top of the preci∣pice and fissures of the cliffs. One lower and outward apartment is of masonry. We entered into this lower apartment by a passage of three paces, the doorway marked with the remains of bolts and iron hinges: it is built up against the side of the rock, about 18 feet square, and ap∣pears to have been the kitchen or principal dwelling, having a range or fire-place six feet wide. On the south side of this apartment, opposite to our entrance, is a doorway leading to an outward seat formed in the rock, and opening upon the walk on the river's brink. On this side

    Page 264

    of the room are two windows, which bear the marks of iron-grating, and also a closet. By holes cut in the rock, it seems as if timbers had been lodged therein for the flooring of an upper chamber. This struc∣ture is built of ashler-work, and appeared to us of much more modern date than the cells formed in the rock. Passing from this outward build∣ing the way we entered, we ascended by 17 steps to a little vestibule, with a seat on each side capable of holding one person only. Above the inner doorway some letters appear, the remains of a phrase which may be thus rendered in English: "My tears have been my food day and night." From thence we entered the principal apartment or chapel, about 18 feet in length, and not more than seven feet and an half wide, and of the same height. Two pilasters of semi-hexagonal form project from the opposite walls in the center, and one from each corner, from whence spring the intersecting groins of the roof, the joinings ornamented with roses. The pilasters have plain capitals and bases, in the old Gothic stile. All the work is chiselled, and done with mechanic ex∣actness and regularity: the wall or outside rock as you enter is left so thick, as to admit the vestibule before described. At the east end is an altar, formed cross the whole apartment, ascended by two steps; the upper plane edged with a moulding. In the center of the wall behind is a nich for a crucifix or image, with the remains of a glory. On the

    [figure]

    Page 265

    right hand as you approach the altar, cut out of the thickness of the wall, is a nich or cavity, like those often described in the progress of this work, left in the walls of the ailes of churches; within which there is represented a table monument (no chink or cavity appearing, to give a supposition that it is hollowed to receive any human remains) with a recumbent female figure,* 20.25 the hands and arms of which appear to have been elivated. Light is admitted by two small windows behind. On the pillar which divides the windows, are the remains of some sculpture, supposed by many to be that of an hovering cherub; but with the utmost attention, and a strong desire to coincide with others, I could not see any such figure, even with an eye prejudiced by such prepossessions:† 20.26 if it has ever been the representation of any figure, and now wasted by the weather beating through the windows, I con∣ceive it was that of a child standing in a weeping attitude over the re∣cumbent effigies. At the foot of the recumbent effigies is a bason cut

    Page 266

    for holy water, and the feet of the effigies rest against an animal (most likely a dog, as an emblem of fidelity) as is usual on monuments of the like form. I pay great deference to the opinions of other visitants, but cannot agree with the author of the poem, that this is a bull's head, or the usual place for crests: on the contrary, according to the virtues of the deceased, ancient tombs are decorated with an animal at the foot of the effigies, as a lion for fortitude, a dog for fidelity, &c. and this same figure appeared to me no other than that of a crouching dog; as is to be seen on multitudes of ancient tombs. The usual place of the crest on tombs, is under the head of the effigies. The examples in the northern counties are most likely to point out to us the prevailing fashion. The bull's head is in that position on the tombs of the family of Nevils, in Brancepeth and Staindrop churches, in the county of Dur∣ham; and a dog lays at the feet. The same on the fine tomb of Ogle, in Bothal church, and also the Ram's head on the elegant tomb of Gray, at Chillingham, with many other instances in Northumberland. Under the head of the effigies no crest appears; a double cushion is the support. By length of time, and the weather beating through the windows, the figures are greatly injured. In a nich at the foot of the monument, and cut in the wall, is the figure of an Hermit on his knees, resting his head on his right hand, and his left hand placed on his bosom, as in a lamenting or pensive posture. The author of the poem has racked invention to conceive a cause for our Hermit's vow of severity and retirement.

    The cliff, the vault, but chief the tomb, Attract the wand'ring pair; Eager they ask what hapless dame Lies sculptur'd here so fair?
    The Hermit sigh'd, the Hermit wept, For sorrow scarce could speak; At length he wip'd the trickling tears, That all bedew'd his cheek.
    Alas! my children, human life Is but a vale of woe; And very mournful is the tale Which you so fain would know.

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    Young Lord, thy grandsire had a friend, In days of youthful fame; Yon distant hills were his domains; Sir Bertram * 20.28 was his name.
    Where e'er the noble Percy fought, His friend was at his side; And many a skirmish with the Scots Their early valour try'd.
    Fair Widdrington the maiden's name, Yon tow'r's her dwelling-place; Her sire an old Northumbrian chief, Devoted to thy race.

    Page 268

    Many a Lord and many a Knight To this fair damsel came; But Bertram was her only choice, For him she felt a flame.
    Lord Percy pleaded for his friend, Her father soon consents; None but the beauteous maid herself His wishes now prevents.
    * * * * * * * * When lo a damsel young and fair Stepp'd forward thro' the hall.
    She Bertram courteously addrest, And kneeling on her knee, Sir Knight, the Lady of thy love Hath sent this gift to thee.
    Then forth she drew a glittering helm, Well plated many a fold; The casque was wrought of temper'd steel, The crest of burnish'd gold.
    Sir Knight, thy Lady sends thee this, And yields to be thy bride, When thou hast prov'd this maiden gift, Where sharpest blows are try'd.
    Young Bertram took the shining helm, And thrice he kiss'd the same; Trust me I'll prove this precious casque With deeds of noblest fame.
    Lord Percy and his Barons bold, Then fix'd upon a day, To scour the Marches, late opprest, And Scottish wrongs repay. * * * * * * * *
    Now closing fast on every side, They hem Sir Bertram round; But dauntless he repels their rage, And deals forth many a wound.

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    The vigour of his single arm Had well nigh won the field, When ponderous fell a Scottish ax, And clove his lifted shield.
    Another blow his temples took, And reft his helm in twain; That beauteous helm, his Lady's gift: His blood bedew'd the plain.
    Lord Percy saw his champion fall, Amid the unequal fight: And now my noble friends, he said, Let's save this gallant Knight.
    Then rushing in, with stretch'd out shield, He o'er the warrior hung, As some fierce eagle spreads her wing, To guard her callow young. * * * * * * * *
    All pale, extended on their shields, And welt'ring in his gore, Lord Percy's Knights their bleeding friend To Wark's fair castle bore. * * * * * * * *
    All day o'er moss and moor they rode, By many a lonely tow'r, And 'twas the dewfall of the night Ere they drew near her bow'r. * * * * * * * *
    Six days, young Knight, are past and gone, Since she set out to thee; And sure, if no sad harm had happ'd, Long since thou wouldst her see.
    For when she heard thy grievous chance, She tore her hair, and cry'd, Alas! I've slain the comeliest Knight, All thro' my folly and pride. * * * * * * * *

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    Then mounted she her milk-white steed, One morn at break of day, And two tall yeomen went with her, To guard her on the way.
    Sad terror smote Sir Bertram's heart, And grief o'erwhelm'd his mind; Trust me, said he, I ne'er will rest, Till I my Lady find. * * * * * * * *
    Now, brother, we'll our ways divide, O'er Scottish hills to range; Do thou go north, and I'll go west, And all our dress we'll change. * * * * * * * *
    One day, as he sate under a thorn, All sunk in deep despair, An aged Pilgrim pass'd him by, Who mark'd his face of care. * * * * * * * *
    Cheer up, my son, perchance (he said) Some tidings I may bear; For oft when human hopes have fail'd, Then heav'nly comfort's near.
    Behind yon hills, so steep and high, Down in a lowly glen, There stands a castle, fair and strong, Far from th' abode of men.
    As late I chanc'd to crave an alms, About this evening hour, Methought I heard a Lady's voice, Lamenting in the tower. * * * * * * *
    These tidings caught Sir Bertram's ear, He thank'd him for his tale, And soon he hasted o'er the hills, And soon he reach'd the vale. * * * * * * * *

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    All day he sits beside the gate, And pipes both loud and clear; All night he watches round the walls, In hopes his love to hear.
    The first night, as he silent watch'd, All at the midnight hour, He plainly heard his Lady's voice, Lamenting in the tower.
    The second night, the moon shone clear, And gilt the spangled dew, He saw his Lady thro' the grate, But 'twas a transient view.
    The third night, wearied out, he slept Till near the morning tide, When starting up he seiz'd his sword, And to the castle hey'd.
    When lo he saw a ladder of ropes Depending from the wall; And o'er the moat was newly laid A poplar, strong and tall.
    And soon he saw his love descend, Wrapt in a tartan plaid; Assisted by a sturdy youth, In Highland garb then clad.
    Amaz'd, confounded at the sight, He lay unseen and still, And soon he saw them cross the stream, And mount the neighbouring hill.
    Unknown, unheard of all within, The youthful couple fly; But what can 'scape the lover's ken, Or shun his piercing eye?
    With silent step he follows close Behind the flying pair, And saw her hang upon his arm, With fond familiar air.

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    Thanks, gentle youth, she often said; My thanks thou well hast won; For me what wiles hast thou contriv'd; For me what dangers run?
    And ever shall my grateful heart Thy services repay: Sir Bertram could not further hear, But cry'd, Vile traitor, stay!
    Vile traitor, yield that Lady up! And quick his sword he drew: The stranger turn'd in sudden rage, And at Sir Bertram flew.
    With mortal hate their vigorous arms Gave many a vengeful blow; But Bertram's stronger hand prevail'd, And laid the stranger low.
    Die, traitor, die!—a dreadful thrust Attends each furious word: Ah! then fair Isabel knew his voice, And rush'd beneath his sword.
    O stop, she cry'd; O stop thy arm! Thou dost thy brother slay! And here the Hermit paus'd and wept. His tongue no more could say.
    At length he cry'd, Go lovely pair: How shall I tell the rest! Ere I could stop my piercing sword, It fell, and stabb'd her breast.
    Wert thou thyself that hapless youth? Ah cruel fate! they said: The Hermit wept, and so did they; They sigh'd—he hung his head. * * * * * * *

    Page 273

    My brother, alas! spake never more, His precious life was flown; She kindly strove to sooth my pain, Regardless of her own. * * * * * * *
    Thus pouring comfort on my soul, Even with her latest breath, She gave one parting fond embrace, And clos'd her eyes in death. * * * * * * * *
    For me, I loath'd my wretched life, And long to end it thought; Till time and books and holy men Had better counsels taught.
    They rais'd my heart to that pure source, Whence heav'nly comfort flows; She taught me to despise the world, And calmly bear its woes.
    No more the slave of human pride, Vain hope and sordid care; I meekly vow'd to spend my life In penitence and pray'r.
    The bold Sir Bertram now no more Impetuous, haughty, wild; But poor and humble Benedict, Now lowly, patient, mild.
    My lands I gave to feed the poor, And sacred altars raise; And here a lonely Anchorite I came to end my days.
    This sweet sequester'd vale I chose, These rocks and hanging grove; For oft beside that murmuring stream My love was wont to rove.

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    My noble friend approv'd my choice, This bless'd retreat he gave; And here I carv'd her beauteous form, And scoop'd this hollow cave.
    Full fifty winters, all forlorn, My life I've linger'd here; And daily o'er this sculptur'd Saint I drop the pensive tear.

    In Mr Grose's account of this Hermitage, it is alledged, that it was universally believed the first Hermit enjoined himself this life of pennance and severity, in contrition for the murder of his own brother. I must say, I was struck with an idea on my first entrance, which grew upon me whilst I remained in these sacred vaults, and drew on a train of pensive thoughts: There needed nothing barbarous, savage, or mur∣derous to induce a man to such a life—disappointed love was sufficient of itself to incite it: Conceive the personage sculptured upon the tomb or monument, to be the devoted bride or beloved wife of the Recluse, cut off in the prime of life by some common casualty, perhaps after a short life of harmony and love in the marriage state, in the instant of bringing into the world the issue of an happy intercourse, and the heir of an opulent race—this was cause sufficient. Under such circum∣stances, we should entertain more feelings for the tender sorrows and disappointed love of the Hermit, than we can experience when we see him stained with bloody crimes, arising from wrath, revenge, rashness, or indiscretion—mad with jealousy, even to such a blindness, that he could not know his own brother, though gone forth in disguise at his instance on the same errand with himself. I own my ideas furnished me with a very different picture of the Hermit's woes—I stood over the monument with an eye flooded in tears, and a mind distressed by the tenderest touches of commiseration. After musing for some time, I imagined I could hear the distressed inhabitant exclaim:

    In the dust rests for ever the beloved remains of the best of women—united to me by love and wedloc—the hopes of my youth, the joy of my de∣sire, and the felicity of my possession; with her I had flattered my mind, life would pass away serenely, and the evening of the human day advance in peace: but alas! when my happiness was at its height, she was snatched from me, and forlornness beset my steps.

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    But to return to my description: The west end of the chapel is lighted by a window formed of four conjoining circles: above the inner door of the vestibule is a shield, bearing the remains of some arms; by some taken to be the figure of a gauntlet; but as it is generally believed one of the Bertrams formed this hermitage, so it is probable this shield (the remains of which seem to correspond therewith) bore the Bertrams' arms, Or, an orl, azure.* 20.29

    On the left hand of the altar, a window is formed in the partition of the apartments, divided by two mullions, the summit of each light or division ornamented with work formed of sections of circles, like those seen in cathedrals of the tenth century. From the chapel we en∣tered an inner apartment, by a neat door-case, over which is sculptured a shield, with the crucifixion and several instruments of torture. At the east end of this inner apartment, is an altar like that in the chapel, lighted by the last-described window, and through which the person kneeling at the inner altar, could view the cenotaph in the chapel: this apartment is about five feet wide and nine paces in length: here is also a nich or bason for holy water. On the northern side of this inner chamber, a recess is cut in the rock, of size sufficient to hold the couch of a person of middling stature. I have seen several of the like form, alcoved above, and a sole about two feet above the level of the floor to hold the matrass and bedding of the Recluse. This recess is so placed, that whilst I sat therein to make my notes, by a nich cut slantwise in the partition wall which separates the two apartments, I had a view of the cenotaph and effigies thereon. The nich seemed calculated for this very purpose; being cut through the wall assant, it could not be conceived intended to convey the light. By some it has been imagined to be de∣signed for confession, but it is my sentiment that the Hermit was priest and penitent in one; and that he had devised those apertures, that the effigies should be constantly in his sight. In this inner apartment, is a small closet cut in the side wall to the north: from this interior cham∣ber is a doorway leading to an open gallery, having a prospect up the

    Page 276

    river; but by the falling of some of the rock above, this part is greatly damaged. It is said by old people, that the roof was supported by a fine pillar, and formed a small piazza cloister or open gallery—such galleries are seen in very ancient mansions, in the centre of the front: one is yet perfect in the remains of Bradley Hall, in the county of Dur∣ham, the mansion of the eldest branch of the family of Bowes, built, as it is presumed, soon after the conquest.

    From these cells, through a neat doorway, there are winding stairs cut in the rock, leading to its summit, supposed to conduct to the Hermit's olatory or garden. A channel is ingeniously formed on the steps to carry off the water.

    It seems evident that the original hermitage consisted of no more than the apartments hewn in the rock, the inner one being the dwelling-place, and the little cloister the summer seat, facing westward, and commanding a beautiful view up the river Coquet, which here forms a fine curve, in extent near half a mile, on this side bordered by rocks, on the other by cultivated lands, of an easy inclination; on the extremity stands a pretty farmhold, to terminate the sequestered rural prospect. The style of architecture adopted in this hermitage is of the Saxon Go∣thic, which proves its antiquity. In the postscript to the poem of the Hermit of Warkworth, the author asserts,

    that the memory of the first Hermit was held in such regard and veneration by the Percy fa∣mily, that they afterwards maintained a chantry priest, to reside in the hermitage and celebrate mass in the chapel; whose allowance, uncommonly liberal and munificent, was continued down to the dis∣solution of the monasteries; and then the whole salary, together with the hermitage and all its dependencies, reverted back to the family; having never been endowed in mortmain. On this account we have no record which fixes the date of the foundation, or gives any parti∣cular account of the first Hermit.
    The patent is extant, which was granted to the last Hermit in 1532, by the sixth Earl of Northumber∣land.* 20.30 The author of the poem in this postscript adds,
    After the pe∣rusal

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    of the above patent, it will perhaps be needless to caution the reader against a mistake some have fallen into, of confounding the hermitage near Warkworth, with a chantry founded within the town itself, by Nicholas de Farnham, Bishop of Durham, in the reign of King Henry III. who appropriated the church of Branxton for the maintenance there of two Benedictine Monks from Durham. That small monastic foundation is indeed called a cell by Bishop Tanner; but he must be very ignorant, who supposes that by the word cell, is necessary to be understood a hermitage; whereas it was commonly applied to any small conventual establishment, which was dependant on another. As to the chapel belonging to this endowment of Bishop Farnham, it is mentioned as in ruins in several old surveys of Queen Elizabeth's time; and its scite not far from Warkworth church, is still remembered.* 20.31 But that there was never more than one priest maintained, at one and the same time, within the hermitage, is plainly proved, (if any further proof be wanting) by the following extract from a survey of Warkworth, made in the year 1567, viz. Ther is in the parke also one howse hewyn within one cragge, which is called the harmitage chapel: in the same ther haith bene one preast keaped, which did such godlye services as that tyme was used and celebrated. The mantion howse ys nowe in decaye: the closes that apperteined to the said chantrie is occupied to his Lordships use.

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    It appears to me, that the Monks who came here in an age in which the severities of a religious life were relaxing, founded the good warm kitchen of mason-work at the foot of the rock, adapted to indulgencies unknown to the original inhabitant. The form of the doors and win∣dows are of a much more modern mode than those above; the windows of the hermitage have had no iron-grating.

    After wandering in this sweet sequestered vale, so singularly calcu∣lated for contemplation, and adapted to a mind fond of serious reflec∣tions, till the decline of day warned us of the necessity of our depar∣ture, we returned to Warkworth, from whence we had a view of

    COQUET ISLAND,

    little more than a mile from the main land, and about a mile in cir∣cumference. Here are the remains of a Cell of Benedictine Monks, which was subordinate to Tynemouth Priory. After the dissolution, it was granted to the Earl of Warwick,* 20.32 and is now part of the possessions of the Duke of Northumberland. This is a much more comfortable recess than St. Cuthbert's on the Farn Island: rabbits abound here, and pit coal was wrought before Leland's time. There is nothing memorable in history relative to this place, but its capture by the Scots in the reign of King Charles I. when it was garrisoned with 200 men, and defended with seven pieces of ordnance.

    We took our rout to

    FELTON,

    a village on the banks of Coquet. The scenes near this place are ro∣mantic and beautiful; fine rocks and hanging woods form the margin

    Page 279

    of the winding river, whilst on every side lies a rich cultivated coun∣try. At this place the Barons of Northumberland, Lord Eustace being one, did homage to Alexander King of Scotland: to chastise which de∣fection, King John levied a great army, and in 1216, marching north∣ward, made horrid devastations: Felton was reduced to ashes.

    This was one of the dependent manors of the barony of Mitford, and passed through the successive possessions of Bertrams, Pembrokes, Athols, Percys, Scropes, and Lysles, and afterwards of the Widdring∣tons, from whom the present owner, Mr Riddell, derives his title, in right of his Lady. The church stands on the southern side of the river, and is dedicated to St. Michael. Mr Riddell has a seat-house at the west end of the village.* 20.33

    Nigh this place was the Priory of Gyson or Gisness, founded by Richard Tyson. The Abbey of Alnwick had Gyson or Gisness annexed to it by Eustace Fitz John, to hold in pure alms with all its privileges and endowments, a moiety of the tithes, and two bovates of land at Gyson, the church of Halge, &c.† 20.34

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    We visited the ruins of

    BRINKBURN PRIORY,
    [figure] depiction of Brinkburn Priory
    BRINKBURN

    situated in a deep vale, on a small peninsula formed by the river Coquet, overlooked by steep hills and craggy rocks on every hand; in so much, that on our approach by the ancient causeway, the first view we had of it, within the distance of 150 yards, was from such an eminence, and so immediately above it, that we looked into the interior parts of the ruins. This is the most melancholy and deep solitude, chosen for a religious edifice, I ever yet visited.* 20.35

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    The building is in the cathedral form; the body is 22 yards in length and 13 breadth, without much ornament, and composed of a durable stone. The walls are almost entire; the great tower is very perfect: there are some remains of the dormitory, now converted into a cellar. Mr Grose observes, that

    these ruins exhibit one among the many in∣stances wherein circular and pointed arches occur in the same build∣ing, and that in parts manifestly constructed at the same time; which shews, that about the period of its erection, there was a kind of struggle between the ancient mode or Saxon, and what is called Go∣thic architecture; in which neither style then thoroughly prevailed. The upper range of windows in this church are all circular; those immediately under them are pointed. Two doors, one on the north, the other on the south, have circular arches, (of various members, falling back, supported on pilasters) richly adorned with variety of Saxon ornaments, particularly that on the north, which has among others the heads of animals. These are generally deemed the most ancient decorations of that style. The great tower has four pointed arches, and others of the same shape are supported by massy octa∣gonal pillars in the body of the church. There have been burials here as late as the year 1745. At the east end, and in the north and south crosses, were chapels; in one of which are divers fragments of coffins and human bones. On the whole, though this building, ex∣cept about the doors, is remarkably plain, it has a sober and solemn majesty, not always found in buildings more highly decorated. Part of this, perhaps, it may owe to its romantic situation, which is the most proper in the world for retirement and meditation. Near the south∣west

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    angle of the church is a house, seemingly built out of the offices of the monastery.
    There are no monuments or inscriptions that we could discover: the whole of the little plain on this peninsula is occu∣pied by the church and the priory, the latter now converted into a farm-house and garden.

    This priory was founded by Osbertus Colutarius, under the grant of Sir William Bertram, for Black Canons, or Canons regular of St. Austin, in the reign of King Henry I. and by him and his heir richly endowed.* 20.36 The church was dedicated to St. Peter. The Monks were brought from the monastery of De Insula: William Hogeston was the last Prior. In the year 1477, on the 20th September, being the fourth year of the pontifi∣cate of William Dudley, LXVIs. viijd. was paid to the Prior of Brink∣burn, the Bishop's Suffragan, proregardo suo.† 20.37 At the time of sup∣pression of religious houses there were ten Canons here, and the revenue was estimated by Dugdale at 68l. 19s. 1d. and by Speed at 77l. In the fourth year of King Edward the Sixth's reign, it was granted to the Earl of Warwick, but soon after came to the Fenwicks of Fenwick Tower; the last male branch of which family was George Fenwick,‡ 20.38 Esq whose daughter and heir Elizabeth married Roger Fenwick of

    Page 283

    Stanton, Esq one of her descendants, William Fenwick of Bywell, Esq is the present proprietor.* 20.39

    Mr Wallis says (but from what authority I know not) that the bell of this church was removed to the cathedral at Durham.

    Ralph Lord Graystock, at the instance of Johanna his mother, gave the impropriation and advowson of Long Horsley to this priory, in the 8th year of the reign of King Richard II. The convent in return agreed, that she and her heirs, Lords of Morpeth, for ever should have the no∣mination of one Canon there: and Allan son of John de Prestwick was the first nominee under that power.

    We passed by

    NETHER WITTON,

    the modern seat of the Thorntous, now that of Walter Trevelyan, Esq by marrying Margaret daughter of the late James Thornton, Esq— the tower built by Roger Thornton about the fourteenth century now totally in ruins. The country on every hand is rich and beautiful.† 20.40

    From the road we had a view of

    STANTON,

    a seat of the younger branch of Fenwicks of Fenwick Tower.‡ 20.41

    LONG WITTON,

    the modern and pleasant seat of the Swinburn family, was our next ob∣ject, commanding a fine prospect over the rich country which surrounds

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    it. Near it are Thurston wells, of medicinal virtues, but little known. Remains of the Hermin-street, or, as it is vulgarly called, the Devil's Causeway, are to be traced at some little distance.

    We observed the tower of Hartburn, but did not quit our road to visit it, though greatly tempted by the agreeable descriptions given us of the walks of Hartburn Wood.

    We arrived at

    BOLHAM,

    a small village of some antiquity, being the ancient residence of Sir Walter de Bolham, to whom it was granted by King John; from the Bolhams it came to the family of Raimes in the time of King Edward III. and as appears by the escheats of the several reigns of King Richard II. King Henry IV. King Henry VI. Queen Elizabeth, and King Charles I. remained in that family for many generations. We inquired after a camp before described to us, of an oblong figure, 120 yards long and 80 broad, fortified with a vallum and double trench, having a raised pass leading to it: It appears to be Roman.* 20.42 The Herman-street passes over Bolham Moor, in many places perfectly to be distinguished.

    Page 285

    Near it is a tumulus, which was opened by Mr John Warburton, by which two pillars of stone are placed, without any inscription: the personage interred totally unknown. On the north-east side of the moor, is a rock trenched round, containing the ruins of interior build∣ings; but its history lost in the oblivion of ages. Near Bolham is a place called Gally Hill, the place of execution belonging to the ancient Barons. Many places of that name are to be seen near the baronial castles in this county.

    We now took our rout by

    [figure]
    MITFORD,

    to Morpeth. The ancient castle of Mitford is a rude heap of ruins, si∣tuate on a considerable natural eminence; defended towards the north and west by a deep ditch, and on the south the river Wansbeck washes the foot of the castle hill: the works appear to cover about an acre of ground. The principal part of this fortress consisted of a circular tower raised upon an artificial mount, the chief elevation from the natural level being effected by arches of stone and vaults, which in ancient times were used as prisons or places for concealment: the tower was defended by an outward wall, which ran parallel with it, at the dis∣tance of about 10 feet. There is a very narrow prospect from this emi∣nence, the vale is so shut in on every side. What other erections were

    Page 286

    within the walls of this fortress cannot be traced, the ruins are so con∣fused, and most of them covered with grass.

    It is presumed this castle was built before the conquest; the first owner and its date are not known.

    At the time of the conquest, it was the possession of Sir John Mitford, whose only daughter and heir, Sibille, was given in marriage by the Conqueror to Sir Richard Bertram, a Norman Knight, by whom he had two sons, William and Roger.

    William succeeded to the manor and castle of Mitford, and by the grant of King Henry I. it was created a Baronage. He married Alice the daughter of Sir William Merley, of Morpeth. His son Roger, desirous of adding greater improvements to Mitford, paid a fine of 50 marks to King Henry II. for a weekly market at his town of Mitford.

    Roger Bertram,* 21.2 a lineal descendant, having joined with the northern Barons in the 17th year of the reign of King John, the Flemish troops commanded by that inhuman ravager in his northern depredations, seized this castle, and destroyed the town of Mitford with fire and sword.† 21.3 The next year, probably whilst the castle remained in the King's cus∣tody, it was besieged by Alexander King of Scotland, as is mentioned in Leland's Collectanea, from a chronicle called Historia Aurea. Whe∣ther it was taken or not, is not mentioned.

    Page 287

    The barony of Mitford was given by the Crown to Philip de Ulcotes; but upon the King's demise, Bertram found means to make his peace with King Henry III. and for a fine of 100l. obtained a restitution of his lands, and afterwards grew into so much esteem with him, that he granted, on the payment of 10 marks, that his annual fair at Mit∣ford should last eight days instead of four.

    His successor, Roger Bertram, was one of the insurgents at Northamp∣ton, in the reign of King Henry III. where he was taken prisoner, and his honour and castle of Mitford, with all his other lands, were seized for the King's use. The castle was given by King Edward I. to Eleanor Stanour, the wife of Robert de Stoteville.

    In the year 1316,* 21.4 this castle was in the possession of one Gilbert Middleton, a Freebooter, who (says Stowe) after many injuries done to the priory of Tynemouth and other places, was taken here by Ralph Lord Greystock † 21.5 and others, and carried to London, and there executed. In the year 1318, it was taken by Alexander King of Scotland, who disman∣tled it, and spoiled most of its fortifications.

    The entire barony of Mitford was then the property of Adomer de Va∣lence, Earl of Pembroke. By the escheats of the 17th King Edward II. it appears this castle was in ruins, having been destroyed by the Scots.

    This Earl seemed to have a divine interdict impending over him, and the immediate vindictive hand of Providence to be upon him and his posterity, for his atrocious deeds. He was a tool to his Prince, and ser∣vilely

    Page 288

    submitted to the mandates of the Crown, contrary to the dictates of humanity, honour, and justice. He sat in judgment on Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and impiously acquiesced in his sentence. He was a chief instrument in apprehending the famous Scotch patriot, Wallace of Craiggy, in 1305, accomplishing his capture by corrupting his bosom friends, and by the treachery of his most intimate associates, and those in whom he placed his utmost confidence, Sir John Monteith and others of infamous memory. Adomer on his bridal day was slain at a tourna∣ment, held in honour of his nuptials, and left a wife, at once a maiden, bride, and widow.* 21.6 It is said, that for several generations of this fa∣mily, a father never was happy enough to see his son; the proscribed pa∣rent being snatched off by the hand of Death, before the birth of his issue.† 21.7

    The unfortunate Lady of Adomer de Valence, was in her own right Baroness of Veisser and Montenact.

    This barony afterwards came to the Earl of Athol,‡ 21.8 by Johanna his wife, of the Pembroke family, from whom, by female heirs, it passed to the Percys;§ 21.9 by two coheiresses it came to the families of Brough and Gray; and from Leland it appears, that in the reign of King Henry VIII. this castle and manor were in the possession of Lord Brough. In the 4th year of Queen Mary, Lord Brough granted these possessions to Cuthbert Mitford and Robert his son for ever, a collateral branch of the ancient owner before the conquest, reserving the scite of the castle and the royalties; which coming afterwards to the Crown, were

    Page 289

    granted to the above-mentioned Robert Mitford,* 21.10 in the reign of King Charles II.

    The church of Mitford, with the impropriation and advowson, were granted by King Edward I. to Lanercost Priory, in Cumberland. In this church is a tomb with a rude effigy of one of the Bertrams, the inscrip∣tion dated 7th October, 1622.

    There was an Hospital at Mitford, dedicated to St. Leonard, founded by Sir William Bertram, (who granted lands for founding Brinkburn Priory) and endowed with lands for the maintenance of a Chaplain. By an inquisition taken in the reign of King Edward III. it appeared that the Abbot of Newminster had possessed himself of these lands; but King Richard II. obliged him to restore them, and nominated John de Wenhings Chaplain. There was an ancient bridge over the Wansbeck, between the church and castle, called Fouse Brig, or Fees Brig; for the guarding of which on the eve and day of the Ascension, Walter de Swinhoe held 40 acres of land in the manor of Mitford, as appears by the escheats of the 51st of King Edward III.

    On the banks of Wansbeck, was seated

    THE ABBEY OF NEWMINSTER,

    now destroyed to its foundations, and nothing left to denote its scite, but a part of one of the gateways leading into the abbey yard.

    It was founded by Ralph de Merlay, Baron of Morpeth, and Julian his wife, daughter of Cospatric Earl of Northumberland, in the reign

    Page 290

    of King Stephen, 1138,* 21.11 for Cisterfian Monks,† 21.12 translated from Fountains, in Normandy, and was dedicated to the blessed Virgin. Its endowments and revenues were very ample.‡ 21.13

    Page 291

    The Abbot was summoned to the parliament at Carlisle by King Edward I. 1307.

    The revenues of this abbey at the dissolution, were valued by Dug∣dale at 100l. 1s. 1d. and by Speed at 140l. 10s. 4d. The religious body at that time consisted of 15.* 21.14

    The scite was granted by King James I. to the Brandling family, and it is now the possession of Mr Ord of Fenham.† 21.15

    Page 292

    The vale of Wansbeck, from Mitford to Morpeth, is narrow and deep, but the winding banks of the stream are woody and beautiful.

    Not far distant from Mitford, stands

    MOLLESTON,

    formerly the possession of a collateral branch of Mitfords, who after∣wards regained the baronial inheritance of Mitford. It was granted, in the reign of King Edward III. by Strabolgy Earl of Athol, to Sir John de Mitford, a lineal descendant of Matthew de Mitford, younger brother of Sir John de Mitford, whose daughter Sibille married Sir Richard Ber∣tram.* 21.16

    We approached

    MORPETH,

    which we made our common resting place, after several little excur∣sions into the adjoining country. It is a pleasant well built town, seated on the northern banks of the river Wansbeck, in a warm and sheltered vale, surrounded with a rich cultivated country; and tho' without any considerable degree of trade, wears the countenance of opulence.* 21.17 It is a prescriptive borough, governed by two Bailiffs and seven Burgesses, an∣nually elected out of the free burgesses being inhabitants and paying scot and lot. In the first year of the reign of Queen Mary, 1553, it began

    Page 293

    to send members to parliament, who are now elected by the free bur∣gesses, and are returned by the Bailiffs.* 21.18 A weekly market is held on

    Page 294

    Wednesday, when there is exposed a profusion of excellent provisions. It has the privilege of two yearly fairs, held on Holy Thursday and

    Page 295

    Magdalen-day.* 21.31 The market-place is conveniently situated, near the centre of the town, though narrow enough for the great resort to it. An elegant Town-house was built by the Carlisle family in 1714, in which their manorial court is held, and also the quarter sessions for the county of Northumberland. The structure is of hewn-stone, with a piazza or∣namented with rustic work, the superstructure decorated with turrets, in a very good taste. The market cross is commodious, built in 1699. by the Hon. P. Howard and Sir H. Bellasis. As the church is distant about a quarter of a mile from the town, a tower is built near the market-place, containing a good ring of bells. Near the bridge is the

    Page 296

    county gaol, a modern structure. King Edward VI. founded a Grammar School here, and endowed it with the revenues of two dissolved chantries in Morpeth, and one at Nether Witton. The school-house, with a neat chapel lately erected, stand on the brink of the river, near the bridge, which leads to Newcastle:* 21.32 the parochial church † 23.1 is on the southern

    Page 297

    side of the river; a plain structure, containing nothing remarkable but one inscription.‡ 23.2 Opposite to the church is the Rectory-house, a hand∣some

    Page 298

    new building.§ 23.3 There was a chantry in this church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but by whom founded, or how endowed, is not known. John Anderson was Chaplain May 10th, 8th of King Henry VII.

    Page 299

    The baronial castle * 23.4 is in ruins, little remaining thereof but an old gateway tower and part of the outward wall which enclosed the area and interior buildings. It is placed on a lofty eminence, unassisted by art; the southern side is very steep, and washed by the river Wansbeck; the northern secured by a deep valley. The tower has formerly had angular turrets at the north-east and south-east corners, with a com∣munication by an open gallery which was supported by projecting cor∣bles: there is no portcullis. In the centre of the arched roof of the gateway is a square aperture, calculated to annoy assailants who should gain the outward gate. It commands a fine prospect, overlooking the town of Morpeth, and the banks of Wansbeck, where large tracts of woodlands are beautifully disposed. Near this tower, towards the north-east, and on the other side of the deep dell or valley, before described, is a round mound of earth, on a natural mount whose height is greatly in∣creased by art. It appears to have been raised rather by assailants than as an outwork or defence to the castle; for from thence, by engines, stones and missile weapons might be thrown into the interior parts of the fortress, to annoy the garrison: and agreeable to the modes practised in early times, perhaps this was cast up for an opposing fort and mal∣voisin on some blockade. No record come to my knowledge proves who

    Page 300

    was the first founder of this castle; early in the time of the Normans, the baronial seat of the Merleys was here, and probably they had a stronghold upon the very eminence where the present remains stand— the tower was the work of William Lord Greystock, who lived in the time of King Edward III. as appears by the escheats of that reign.* 23.5 Sur∣names were derived from places, and that of Merley, probably from their fortress here. By the rolls of Henry V. the barony is called the barony of Marlay: which shews that Merlay and Morpeth were places ori∣ginally distinct from each other, the one denoting the hill and the other the valley; at length the distinctions subsided in the general ap∣pellation of Morpeth.

    We do not find in history any thing singular of Morpeth in the times of the Saxons; it was the ancient barony of the Merleys, but when it was so created, or whether the Merleys were in possession before the con∣quest, there is no satisfactory evidence. By the Testa de Nevill it ap∣pears, that the third Roger de Merley held the barony of Morpeth by the service of four Knights fees. "Et omnes antecessores sui tenerunt per iundem servicium post conquestium Angliae." King Henry I. gave Julian the daughter of Gospatrick Earl of Dunbar in marriage, with a rich dowery, to Roger de Merley, Baron of Morpeth.† 23.6 This Roger founded Newmin∣ster, and as appears by the Autographo, was interred therein, with his Lady and Osbert their son.‡ 23.7

    There was an hospital founded in Morpeth by this family, to which William de Merley gave a carucate of land.§ 23.8

    Page 301

    Roger de Merley obtained of King John, 1199, a market for his bo∣rough, and an annual fair on Magdalen-day, in consideration of a fine of 20 marks and two palfreys. He was also interred at Newminster.* 23.9

    His successor Roger ornamented the borough of Morpeth, and founded an Hospital at Catchburn. He was also interred at Newminster.† 23.10

    Roger the third granted to his burgesses a freedom from all taxes, subsidies, or contributions, except those to the King for public safety, the marriage honours of the Lord's heir or eldest daughter, or the Lord's redemption from captivity. He granted several other liberties and im∣munities. The charter is so valuable and singular a piece of antiquity, that it highly merits a place here.

    Omnibus hanc cartam visuris vel audituris Rogerus de Merlay tertius salutem. Noveritis me audisse cartà Rogeri patris mei in hac verba. Omnibus hominibus has literas visuris, vel audituris, Rogerus de Mer∣lay salutem. Sciatis quod ego Rogerus de Merlay dedi et concessi, et hac praesenti carta mea confirmavisse, meis liberis burgensibus de Mor∣peth, illis et haeredibus suis, tenend. et habend. in perpetuum de me et haeredibus meis, omnes libertates, et omnes liberas consuetudines, honorabiliter, et libere, et integre, sicuti carta domini Regis purportat, quam ego habio de dono suo. His testibus, Willielmo de Merlay, Richardo de Plesses, &c. &c. Quare volo, concedo et confirmo, pro me et haeredibus meis, praedictis burgensibus, et haeredibus suis, quod habeant omnes libertates praedictas, sicut carta Rogeri de Merlay patris mei purportat et testatur. Et praeterea concessi pro me et haere∣dibus meis quod praefati burgenses nec haeredes eorum tallientur nisi quando dominus Rex talliabit burgenses suos et ad promogenitum meum milit. faciend. et ad primogenitum filiam meam maritandum, et ad cor∣pus meum de prisona redimendum. Item concessi eisdem quod si ego vel haeredes mei, prizas ferimus per servientes nostros de pane vel de cervisia vel de aliqua alia de re in dicta villa de Morpath, illae prizae solvantur creditori infra quadraginta dies; creditor autem cui non so∣lutum fuerit infra quadraginta de prizis ab eis factis maneat quietus ab

    Page 302

    omni priza post illas quadraginta dies quousque ei solutum fuerit. Ita tamen quod bene licebit mihi et haeredibus meis alias prizas facere, in∣fra terminum illarum quadraginta dierum. Et sciendum quod priza mea cervisiae erit in toto anno tres gallones pro uno denario. Concessi etiam eisdem burgensibus et haeredibus solitas communas pasturae et aisiamenta consueta cum libero exitû et introitu ad eandem villam de Morpath pertin. Exceptis bladis & pratis. Concessi etiam superdictis burgensibus et haeredibus eorum communam in stipulis meis, ejusdem manerii mei de Morpath; scilicet de Wenherlawe versus occidentem us∣que ad divisas abbatis novi monasterii, et usque ad fossatum parci occi∣dentalis. Ita tamen quod herbagium earundem stipularum reservetur ad opus meum et haeredum meorum per quindecem dies postquam bla∣dum meum fuerit cariatum. Et concessi eisdem burgensibus et haere∣dibus eorum, quod quando eis turbarias vendere voluero in turbariis meis de Morpath, et quantum eis vendere voluero, singulas cariatas turbarii pro singulis denariis. Et si contingat quod averia eorundem burgensium capiantur in defensis meis, pro quolibet averio debant unum obulum, et pro quolibet equo unum obulum, et pro quin∣que ovibus unum obulum per tres vices tam extra quam infra, et ad quartem vicem pro singulis eorum averiorum captis infra boscum dabunt octo denarios, et extra boscum quatuor denarios, et postea iterum incipiendo pro singulis averiorum obulum per tres vices, ut praedictum est. Et si averia eorum capiantur in bladis vel in pratis, faciant emendas secundum tempus anni. Concessi insuper, et confir∣mavi praefatis burgensibus et eorum haeredibus illam placeam quietam ubi forum eorum esse solebat (excepto tamen Tofto Aliciae Hudde, et pristina ejusdem villae, et excepta quadam fabrica, quam Philippus te∣nuit. In qua placea volo quod stalla eorum construnantur ubi carnes et pisces vendant usque in horam nonam. Et prohibeo super plenam forisfacturam mei et heredum meorum ne quis presumat vendere carnes nec pisces ante horam nonam, quoniam servicii dict. stall. nisi in grosso. Et sciendum quod bene licebit mihi et haeredibus meis facere aedificia nostra ubicunque voluerimus in culturis nostris, in quibus eis concessi∣mus communia sine impedimento vel contradictione dictorum burgen∣sium, vel haeredum eorum in perpetuum. Et sciendum quod dicti bur∣genses et haeredes eorum sequentur molendina mea de Morpath ad ter∣tium decimum vas multurae, sicut prius sequi consueverunt. Et ego Rogerus de Merlay et haeredes mei universa praenominata et concessa dictis burgensibus et eorum haeredibus contra omnes gentes in perpe∣tuum warrantizabimus. Et in hujus rei testimonium unam partem hujus cartae chirographatae quam dicti burgences habent penes eos et

    Page 303

    haeredes eorum sigillo meo roberavi; et aliam partem habeo penes me et haeredes meos communi sigillo dictorum burgensium signatum. His testibus Hugone Gubion, Willielmo de Merlay, Johanne de Plesses, Willielmo de Conyers, Ada Barret, Willielmo de Horsley, Willielmo filio Radulphi, Richardo de Saltwick, Richardo de Sancto Petro, Wil∣lielmo Spurnelow, Radulpho Grom. Thoraldo, Rogero Palmer, Waltero de Witton clerico et aliis.

    Roger the third was also interred at Newminster, leaving two daugh∣ters, Mary and Johanna, his coheiresses.* 23.11

    Mary the eldest daughter married William Lord Greystock, to whose issue the whole barony of Morpeth descended. Johanna married Ro∣bert de Somerville, by whom she had five sons, who all died without issue male.

    John his heir was a great benefactor to Tynemouth and Newminster.† 23.12 In the Autographo, he is termed Vir strenuus et corpulentus. He died in the year 1307.

    Page 304

    On extinction of the male line of Fitz William, who on the death of John Lord Greystock assumed the name and title of Greystock, Morpeth

    Page 305

    passed by marriage of the heiress, to Lord William Dacre of Gilsland, in Cumberland; and by marriage of the heiress of the Dacre family, to Lord William Howard, third son of the Duke of Norfolk, from whom they descended to the present Lord Carlisle.

    We made an excursion from Morpeth, to visit

    BOTHALL,

    the baronial inheritance of the family of Ogles, distant from Morpeth about four miles. This ride is extremely beautiful, lying within a little dis∣tance of the river Wansbeck, the banks of which to the south are lofty, and cloathed with fine hanging woods, through which here and there you see a bold promontory or rocky precipice. All the environs of the river to Bothal are romantic and beautiful. The castle, though placed on a considerable eminence, yet stands in a very deep vale; hanging woods forming an amphitheatre at the distance of about half a mile. Its pre∣sent remains chiefly consist of the great gateway, flanked on the north side by two polygonal towers, 53 feet high; and on the south-west angle by a square turret, whose height measures 60 feet. From the towers of this gate the outward wall extends along the brink of the eminence, in

    Page 306

    a circular form, enclosing the area and interior buildings of the castle. This enclosure contains about half an acre, in which are some scattered fragments of the inner buildings, now affording no degree of certainty what were their original form and use. To the north-west of the gate∣way, was formerly another tower, pulled down within the memory of persons living, which bore the denomination of Ogle's Tower. The scite of this castle to the south is very lofty, on the brink of a rock, whose foot is washed by the river: the east and west sides of the emi∣nence have been defended by a moat. Mr Grose, to his second plate of this castle, which chiefly represents the gateway tower, says,

    the wood scene in the back ground slopes to the water's edge, here and there skirted by picturesque rocks; and in many places the trees overhang the stream, which here runs briskly, breaking against the huge stones plentifully scattered throughout its channel; at once cap∣tivating the eye, and by its gentle murmurs sweetly soothing the ear. Indeed the banks of the Wansbeck, between this place and Morpeth, afford a variety of sylvan scenes, equal in beauty to any in the king∣dom.

    I must descend to more minute descriptions of the gateway with its towers;* 23.13 they bear a certain appearance of being the most modern parts of this castle; the architecture is excellent, and the edifice built of a durable stone, well drest, and in good preservation: the ascent from the town is easy and gradual. The outward gate was defended by a portcullis; in the arching of the roof of the gateway, are three square apertures, from whence the garrison could annoy the assailants, when they had gained the first gate; a door on each hand leads to the flank∣ing towers. On the right hand, is a passage and staircase in the south∣west tower; at the foot of the stairs is a door into the prison, which is not so horrible an enclosure as most of those seen in baronial castles: it is above ground, and closely arched, having narrow apertures, like loop∣holes, to admit light and air from the gateway passage. Opposite to these stairs, on the other side of the gateway, is a large hall. Passing the winding stairs, we entered the state-room, above the gateway: this apartment is lighted by four windows, none of them of any consider∣able size; the principal one is to the north, in the centre: by means of the thickness of the wall, the recess formed for the window is benched

    Page 307

    with stone at the sides, with seats for six persons at least. From this window you view the town, the church, and a narrow vale, through which the river flows. On each side of this window, is a door leading to the chambers of the flanking towers. The fire-place, of a very spa∣cious range, is to the east, on the left side of which is another window with a recess, benched like that before described. A third window like the two former, is to the right of the door as you enter, looking into the area of the castle; a large window to the west commands the wider part of the vale, and the fine hanging woods by which it is is bounded. Three large stones cover the apertures in the floor, which open upon the passage of the gateway. The upper rooms being more ruinous, are not so easy to describe, or their form capable of being as∣certained. I walked these apartments with a veneration, proceeding from the tenderest obligations; an alliance with a lineal descendant of those illustrious families, who for ages possessed this inheritance.

    [figure]

    In the front of the gateway, are several shields of arms arranged in the following order; which I apprehend, like those at Alnwick, perfectly point out to us the time when this part of the castle was built. In the centre, in a large shield, are the arms of England and France quarterly. It is observable that England takes the first quarter, a thing I have never observed an instance of before. On the dexter side, a shield with the arms of England, three lions passant gardant; on the sinister, a shield with the arms of the Grays, barry of six argent and azure, three torteauxes in chiefe. This denotes that the erection was made in the time of Edward IV. whose consort was a Gray, mother of Thomas Gray, who in the 15th year of that reign was created Marquis of Dorset. Beneath, in the

    Page 308

    centre, the arms of Bertram, Or, an orl, azure. On the dexter and sinister sides of this, are three shields, which denote the alliances of the Bertram family.

    The first, on the dexter side, the arms of Percy

    The second of Dacre

    The third of Vesey, Or, a cross, sable.

    The first, on the sinister side, of Darcy

    The second of Hastings

    The third, two lions passant gardant in a tressure; but to what fa∣mily this coat armour appertains, I cannot form any probable assertion.

    On the tower on the right hand of the gateway, are four shields, the chief of which is of the Ogles; but as they are greatly defaced by time, and on my view did not seem to have any material relation to the date or history of this erection, I passed them without particular atten∣tion: but on considering the matter, I am induced to believe that John Ogle, the grandson of the heiress of Bertram, and who assumed the name of Bertram, erected this gateway. In the family of Ogles after∣wards mentioned, he is particularly noticed.

    In the centre, on the battlement, is the figure of a man, in stone, in the attitude of sounding a horn; on the right hand tower is another figure, holding a ball between his hands: these figures are greatly in∣jured by the weather.* 23.14

    Page 309

    The scite of Bothal appears very like a Roman station: Camden says, that he had thought for some time, that the Roman Glanoventa stood on the banks of Wansbeck, garrisoned by the first cohort of the Morini; for it is seated in the range of the wall, where the Notitia places it: the river's name is Wants-beck, and Glanoventa, in the Bri∣tish tongue, signifieth THE SHORE OR BANKS OF VENTA. Mr Grose has the following remarks on the Bertrams, the original possessors of this castle.

    Richard Bertram, who lived about the time of King Henry II. gave two sheaves, or two third parts of the tithes of this barony to the Monks of Tinmouth.
    (In Bourne's History of New∣castle, it is said,
    being a devout man, he gave two shares, i. e. two third parts of the titles of it, to the Monks.
    )
    His son Robert obtained of King Richard I. that his manor with its dependencies should be raised to a barony; and it is mentioned as such, in that an∣cient record, remaining with the King's Remembrancer in the Ex∣chequer, called Testa de Nevil, from its being compiled by Jollan de Nevil, who was a Justice Itinerant in the 18th and 24th years of King Henry III. It contains the King's fees through the greatest part of England, with inquisitions of lands escheated and serjeantries.

    This barony was held by Robert of the King in capite, by the ser∣vice of three Knights fees, as his ancestors had formerly held it; the said lands being de veteri feofmento, and paying yearly for the castle guard at Newcastle upon Tyne for cornage 5l. 15s. 4d.

    Robert was succeeded by his son Roger, who procured a charter for free warren, for all his demesne lands here and at Heburn in this county. His heirs enjoyed the barony for some successions, without making any additions to its grandeur; but Robert Bertram being in the reign of King Edward III. constituted Sheriff of Northumberland and Governor of Newcastle upon Tyne, obtained a licence of that King to make a castle of his manor house at Bothal.

    Page 310

    Robert having no issue male, his daughter and heiress, Helen, mar∣rying Sir Robert Ogle, of Ogle, Knight, transferred this barony to his family. Robert their son, after the death of his mother, settled the same upon his youngest son John; his paternal estate he bequeathed to his eldest son Robert, who suffered his brother to enjoy the barony of Bothal for a short time only, for soon after his father's death, with 200 armed men, he took forcible possession of the castle, under pre∣tence of its being his birth-right: but on complaint to parliament, a writ was issued to the Sheriff of Northumberland, directing him to reinstate the complainant, and commanding Robert to appear at West∣minster on a certain day, to answer for this misdemeanor.* 23.15 This

    Page 311

    John, who took the name of Bertram, was afterwards knighted, and was several times Sheriff of Northumberland in the reign of King Henry VI.
    * 23.16

    The family of Ogle was of great antiquity in the county of Northum∣berland, where they were possessed of an extensive property, antecedent to their intermarriage with the heiress of Bertram. Humphrey Ogle, Esq lived at Ogle Castle at the time of the conquest.† 23.17 This family held the manor of Unthank, with lands in Gilcroft and Raleigh, for several ge∣nerations. Sir Robert Ogle, by marriage with Helen the daughter and heiress of Sir Robert Bertram, in the reign of King Edward III. became possessed of the barony of Bothall.‡ 23.18

    There was issue of this marriage, Sir Robert Ogle, who married Ma∣tilda the daughter of Sir Thomas Gray of Wark, by Alice daughter of Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmoreland.

    He was succeeded by Sir Robert, who was created by King Henry VI. Baron of Bothall and the 1st Lord Ogle,§ 23.19 an ardent adherent in the con∣flicts between the houses of York and Lancaster. He married Isabella

    Page 312

    daughter and heiress of Sir Alexander de Kirby, by Johann daughter to Sir Thomas Tunstall.

    Owen Lord Ogle their son married Eleanor daughter of Sir William Hilton, and had issue,

    Ralph the 3d Lord Ogle,* 23.20 who married Margaret the daughter of Sir William Gascoin, and had issue,

    Robert the 4th Lord Ogle, who married Ann the daughter of Thomas Lord Lumley, by Elizabeth Plantagenet, daughter of King Edward IV. by the Lady Lucy, and had issue,

    Robert the 5th Lord Ogle, who died in the battle at Hallydon-rigg, in Scotland. He was twice married; first to Dorothy daughter of Sir Henry Widdrington; his second wife was Johann, daughter of Sir Cuth∣bert Radcliff, by both of whom he had issue. By Dorothy he had

    Robert the 6th Lord Ogle, who married Jane the daughter of Sir Thomas Maleverer, but died without issue. By the second wife Johann, the 5th Lord Ogle had issue,

    Cuthbert the 7th and last Lord Ogle, who married Catharine the daugh∣ter and heiress of Sir Reginald Carnaby, and had issue two daughters, Johanna and Catharine.

    Johanna married to Edward Talbot, Esq younger son to the Earl of Shrewsbury.

    Catharine married to Charles Cavendish of Wellbeck, in Nottingham∣shire, Knight. She was created Baroness Ogle. Her son, Sir William Cavendish, was made Knight of the Bath, A. D. 1610, 6th of King James I. Baron Ogle of Ogle, and Viscount Mansfield, in the 18th year of that reign; Baron Bertram and Belsover, and Earl of Newcastle, 3d King Charles I. Marquis of Newcastle, the 19th year of the same reign; Earl of Ogle and Duke of Newcastle, 16th King Charles II. 1664. In the civil

    Page [unnumbered]

    [figure] depiction of tomb

    Page 313

    wars having espoused the royal cause,* 23.21 and being obliged to fly for re∣fuge to foreign parts, his estates were put under sequestration, and some of them sold: he with six others were excepted from the general pardon. At the restoration, he was reinstated in his possessions; and having an only daughter, she married John Hollis, Duke of Newcastle, who in her right became possessed of the castle of Bothall. He died by a fall from his horse, A. D. 1711, leaving an only daughter, who married Edward Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. These possessions devolved on their only daughter and heiress, Lady Margaret Cavendish Herley, who married his Grace William the late Duke of Portland, whose eldest son, now Duke of Portland, is the present proprietor.

    The parochial church stands at a little distance from the castle: in tablets on the wall, in the old black letter, are painted the genealogy of the Ogles.† 23.22 There is a fine marble tomb of one of the Ogles and his Lady, with their effigies recumbent. I presume the personages there represented are Sir Robert Ogle and his wife, the Baroness Bertram. His effigy is cloathed in a coat of mail, the hands elevated, about his neck a chain, with a cross pendant on his bosom, his hair cut over his forehead and round by his ears, his head supported on his crest a bull's head, his feet rested against a curled water dog. Her effigy is dressed in a long robe, which conceals her feet; over her head and shoulders a mantle flowing back, her hands elevated, her head sup∣ported by a cushion tasselled at the corners, kept by two Esquires in their proper habiliments, each holding a tassel; on the lap of her robe a small Italian greyhound. A sword sheathed lies between these effigies. At the head of the tomb, in niches ornamented with tabernacle-work, are four Ecclesiastics, their crowns shaven, and with hands elevated; at a corner, an inclining shield, supported on the dexter side by a lion col∣lared and chained, and on the sinister side, by a monkey chained by the waste. The shield of arms is so singular, that I have caused it to be engraved with the effigies.

    Page 314

    On the banks of Wansbeck, near to Bothall, are the ruins of an an∣cient chapel or oratory, said to be dedicated to the blessed Virgin. The situation is admirably calculated for meditation, being in a shady so∣litude. By the arms on the wall, it appears to have been built by the family of Ogles. The erection is all of well-wrought free stone; its dimensions within, eight yards in length, and four in breadth; the roof, now gone to decay, was arched with stone, after a curious form, as appears by its remains. It is now grown over with trees, which have struck their roots into the joints and chasms of the building.

    In passing to Ashington, the family seat of the Crows, we had a view of

    SHIPWASH,

    where the Rectory-house stands appertaining to the parish of Bothall, lately honoured by the residence of the most excellent Prelate, his Grace the Hon. and Right Rev. Dr. Drummond, late Lord Archbishop of York. He was the second son of the Right Hon. George Hay, Earl of Kinnoul, and brother to the present, whose illustrious ancestors are recorded for their virtues and military atchievements, in the annals of their country. He was a man of deep erudition, an excellent pastor, a steady loyalist, and a statesman of unbiassed integrity. He mixed affability with dig∣nity, and at the same time he commanded reverence he was courteous. In his archiepiscopal character, he was rigid, yet easy of access; and as he was benevolent, so was he slow of condemnation. He constantly avoided the bustle of greatness, and in his country retreat, putting off the dignity of his office, he was distinguished as a generous friend, an inimitable parent, and a gracious neighbour. He was a student in Christ Church College, Oxford, and had the degree of Doctor in Divi∣nity 27th June, 1745. He took the name and arms of Drummond, as heir intail to his great grandfather, William Drummond, Viscount Strathallan. He married Henrietta daughter of Peter Auriol, Esq Mer∣chant, of the city of London, by whom he had issue three sons and two daughters. He became Chaplain to King George II. in August, 1727; was installed Prebendary of Westminster 29th April, 1743; and consecrated Bishop of St. Asaph 24th April, 1748: he was afterwards translated to Sarum, and made Archbishop of York in 1761; in the same year he was made Lord High Almoner to the King, and one of his Majesty's Most Hon. Privy Council.

    Page 315

    The mother church, it is said, formerly stood here. At a little dis∣tance lies the port of

    CAMBOIS,

    at the mouth of the river Wansbeck, a haven with two quays on the north shore for small vessels, about 30 tons burthen, employed in the export of corn and grindstones, and in importing timber.* 23.23 Many lime boats from the adjacent coasts resort to this place. The cliffs by the sea, called the Hawk's Hugh, are rude and majestic. There is a cavern towards the north end, well known to smugglers. The situation of

    ASHINGTON,

    and the prospect from thence, are delightful: the banks of Wansbeck are finely wooded, and on every hand you look upon a rich cultivated country. The objects disposed on these scenes are various and beauti∣ful: the nearer are woodlands, rocks, and cultivated eminences, scat∣tered over with hamlets; the streams of Wansbeck, enlivened by people employed in the Salmon Fishery, and graced with the bridge of Ship∣wash and the fishing vessels: the more distant are Bebside and the port of Cambois, Seaton Delaval, and the sea. Ashington was one of the dependent manors of the barony of Bothall.† 23.24

    Approaching the sea coast, we viewed

    NEWBIGGIN,

    a fine bay for shipping, secured from the stormy quarters by high rocky promontories, and capable of receiving vessels of 60 tons burthen. The town is small, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen. There are several granaries for corn here. This whole coast is enlivened by trade, and opulence is dispensed on every side by the hand of industry. Human nature is capable of vast works; the capacity of man is infinite, the further it is exerted, the more is discovered for the advancement of its occupation. The more our faculties are employed, the nearer we ap∣proach to a similarity of the divine being, in whose image man was created

    Page 316

    in the beginning. To let our time elapse whilst our rational powers sleep in indolence, is highly criminal; it is a prodigality of all others the worst; denying birth to those good works we owe to ourselves, and to mankind at large. In the bay ships ride in six or seven fathom of water.

    The church stands on the north side of the haven, on a point of land which projects a considerable way into the sea; and it is said there are the remains of a pier there. This church was formerly a much more considerable edifice, now the middle aile and steeple with a spire only remaining: which circumstances give rise to an idea, that New∣biggin and its haven were in some former age of more considerable im∣portance. The spire is a mark to Seamen, of great use to ships coming from the North and Baltic Seas, as a direction for their southward course. The ornament of the altar seems to have been a devoted gift by some Seaman who had escaped the perils of the ocean, being the King's arms carved in wood for the stern-piece of a ship.

    We passed the house of

    CRESWELL,

    one of the ancient members of the barony of Bywell, the family seat of Creswells from the time of King John.* 23.25 Like most of the old Nor∣thumbrian mansions, this was defended by a tower, part of which re∣mains.

    Page 317

    The village of Creswell lies at a little distance, chiefly inha∣bited by fishermen.

    WIDDRINGTON CASTLE,

    the possession of Sir George Warren, Knight of the Bath, in the next place engaged our attention, seated on an eminence commanding a view of Coquet Island and the sea.* 23.26

    This was the ancient seat of the Widdringtons, and by the attainder of William Lord Widdrington in 1715, came to the Crown. Royal mercy being extended to him, he did not suffer death with Lord Derwent water and his associates, but was divested of his honours and estates.

    We find by ancient records, that Gerard de Widdrington† 23.27 was settled here in the reign of King Edward I. and his descendants continued in

    Page 318

    possession till the degradation of the family at the above-mentioned period.

    We advanced westward to

    CAWSEY PARK,

    a member of the barony of Bothall, and the inheritance of a younger branch of the noble family of Ogle, now the seat of Bernard Shaw, Esq by his marrying the widow of William Ogle, Esq This was the man∣sion of John Ogle, who appears to have erected it, as the old tower still retains the initial letters of his name.* 23.28 There were many collateral branches of the noble family of Ogle, whose pedigrees would not be esteemed sufficiently pertinent to hold a place in this work.

    Henry Ogle, brother of the late William Ogle, founded a School here for 30 children, and endowed it with a small piece of ground and 300l. in money, for a stipend for the master.

    Humphrey of this line of the family of Ogles, was Dean of Hereford and one of the Society of Brazen Nose College, Oxford, where he founded two Scholarships in favour of the heirs of his brother Roger.

    The house has no great beauty of situation, it is surrounded with a cultivated country, and has pleasant gardens, fish-ponds, and other artificial ornaments, which greatly contribute to make it a pleasant retirement.

    Page 319

    LONGHORSLEY.

    This manor was given by Gospatrick Earl of Dunbar to Sir Ralph Merley Baron of Morpeth, as part of the dowery of Julian his daughter. Roger de Merley granted part of these possessions to Adam de Plesis; and the heirs of his body, in the reign of King Henry III. The family of Horsleys held lands within this manor from distant ages.* 23.29 The church stands at a distance from the town, and belonged to the priory of Brinkburn.† 23.30

    In our return to Morpeth, our resting place from these little, excur∣sions, we viewed

    COCKLE PARK TOWER,

    which stands about four miles north from Morpeth. In the time of King Edward I. it was the mansion-house of a branch, of the family of Bertrams, built according to the fashion of most of the ancient capital dwellings in this county, as a stronghold not only for the family, but a place of security for the tenants with their flocks and herds, at the times of incursions of the Scots, or ravages by the banditti called the Moss Troopers.

    Page 320

    From Morpeth, our next tour was by Whalton to Ogle Castle.

    WHALTON

    was the barony of Walter Fitz William, who came into England with the Conqueror. It was afterwards the possession of Robert de Cramma∣ville, whom King John divested, and afterwards gave his estates, toge∣ther with Warkworth, to Roger Fitz Roger, an ancester of the noble family of Clavering. It afterwards came to the family of Scroops, of Masham,* 23.31 in the reign of King Edward III. and continued therein till the reign of King Henry VI.

    OGLE CASTLE

    was the manor and seat of the family of Ogles before the conquest, as I have mentioned before: it is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Portland, having attained the barony of Bothall in the de∣scent from Cuthbert the 7th Lord Ogle. The situation is good, on an eminence on the south banks of Blyth. There are very little remains of the old castle; part of a circular tower adjoins to the east of the present farm house, which stands on the scite of the castle: the windows of this tower are very small, topped with pointed arches, the whole remains carrying a countenance of very remote antiquity. The ground wherein the chief part of the castle has stood is square, guarded by a double moat, divided by a breastwork of mason-work. The walls are quite levelled with the ground, and the moat almost grown up.

    Mr Wallis says, that it appears by an ancient pedigree at Bothall Castle, transcribed by Robert Treswell, Somerset Herald, A. D. 1598, by permission of Cuthbert Lord Ogle, that Walter Fitz William came into England with the Conqueror, to whom the King gave the barony of Whalton; and that Walter, by deed, granted to Humphrey de Ogle all such lands and liberties, as he or any of his predecessors had before the coming of the Normans, notwithstanding the royal grant of Whalton, and any claims he might make there under.

    Page 321

    In the reign of King Henry III. and King Edward I. Thomas de Ogle was possessed of Ogle Castle, as appears by several escheats. Sir Robert Ogle in the time of King Edward III. resided here, before his marriage with the heiress of the Bertram family. By patent he held the bailiwick of the dominion of Tynedale. He had licence from the Crown to re∣build the Castle of Ogle. In 1327, he attended the King in the camp of Stanhope Park; in 1346, he was at the battle of Nevil's Cross; in 1355, he was Governor of the castle of Berwick during the siege, in which his brother Alexander was slain.* 23.32

    We passed by

    KIRKLEY,

    a dependent manor on the ancient barony of Mitford; for some ages past the seat of a branch of the noble family of Ogle, now the possession of Dr. Newton Ogle, Prebendary of Durham, and nephew to Admiral Ogle. The mansion house makes a handsome appearance, being a square build∣ing, with flanks or wings consisting of offices. The south front com∣mands no remarkable prospect, the country irregular, and not in the highest cultivation, without any picturesque scene, or ornamental ob∣ject; but this is amply compensated by the view to the east, which is extensive, and affords a landskip equal to any in this part of the county.

    Kirkley was anciently the seat of the Eures or Evers, who held great possessions in the county of Durham, and had their castle at Witton. They held this manor by the service of presenting a barbed arrow on St. John Baptist's day, at the court of the castle of Mitford.† 23.33

    PONTELAND

    is in a very low situation on the banks of the river Pont, from which it derives its name: it was part of the ancient possessions of the Barons

    Page 322

    of Mitford, and by an inquisition taken at Newcastle, 14th September, 10th King Edward II. is noted as part of the property of Adomar de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. This place is mentioned in history for the congress held in 1244, the 28th King Henry III. when peace was set∣tled between England and Scotland through the negotiations of the Prior of Tynemouth. The church is in the form of a cross, and was formerly collegiate.* 23.34 Gilbert, Parson of Esland, was a witness, with others, to the first charter of St. Mary's Hospital in Newcastle, about the year 1190.

    At the west end of the church is a gallery, on the front of which is the following inscription in gold letters: Mr Richard Coates died January 3d, 1719,

    And left his whole effects, at or about 70l. per annum, to the parish of Pont Island for a Charity School; the Rev. Mr Byne, Vicar of Pont Island; the Rev. Mr Forster, of St John's, in Newcastle, and Mr Charles Clarke, Attorney in Newcastle, being with their successors left Trustees for ever to see it justly applied.

    On the south end of the gallery is another inscription in black let∣ters:

    Mrs Barbara Coates built the school-house and erected this gallery at her own charge, after her husband's decease.† 23.35

    Page 323

    Camden * 23.36 from the name of this place was induced to believe it was the Roman Pons Aelii, by more modern Antiquaries fixed at Newcastle.

    WOLSINGTON

    lies at some little distance, lately the property of the family of Jenisons: it was a manor and part of the possessions of the priory of Tynemouth, is in a delightful situation, now the seat of Matthew Bell, Esq

    The prospect over this part of the county, at the turnpike bar, is so extraordinary, that I cannot forbear pointing it out to future ramblers. Ponteland is seated in the depth of the vale, shrouded with a pretty grove; Esland Hall crowns the right hand eminence, beyond which the elegant house of Gosforth, surrounded by rising plantations, fills the more distant landskip; the neat house at Beanridge to the left, con∣trasted by Berwick town, of Scotch aspect, whose black thatched cot∣tages stretch along the neighbouring hill. One of the wings of Dr. Ogle's house at Kirkley is seen through the trees, the white front, and deep coloured shade of the plantations, forming an agreeable mixture. The town of Ogle stands on an eminence in front, over which Whalton is seen, and the whole back ground is formed by the rugged rocks of Rothbury, which give a rude and distant horizon.

    We passed over the great north road to

    GOSFORTH,

    an elegant new building, of Pain's architecture, the seat of Charles Brandling, Esq† 23.37 surrounded with rising plantations. No place in the

    Page 324

    county of Northumberland better ascertains the improvements of which the northern lands are capable: Minister Acres was shut in on every side by a desert, which within a few years has been converted into beautiful plantations; but the great advancement which has taken place here is almost incredible, and the noble works which now fill a tract of land that was covered with heath, and had all the dreary aspect of barren∣ness and waste, are astonishing. No man is more valuable to the com∣monwealth, than he who applies his opulence in the improvements of agriculture: the produce of our lands is a staple of which we cannot be robbed by foreign enemies; a treasure which no change in the ba∣lance of Europe can waste; an intestine wealth, which will give power without the jeopardies attending common merchandize; the increase will ever find an efflux to states which cannot support their numbers by the produce of their own land, and will ever secure an influx of wealth. Our lands afford a perpetual supply of trade; the goods derived from manual occupations, are the objects of fluctuating taste; and when Birmingham and Wolverhampton shall no longer bear the laborious anvil, our wool, our corn and cattle will remain a lasting source of wealth. Manual occupations are transferrable, and in future ages may and will be moved from their present seats, and take place in other kingdoms and distant quarters of the earth; but the produce of lands, as they are local, so are they universally necessary; those of our climate in particular: others produce the luxuries we seek, but ours the neces∣saries every climate requires. To Mr Brandling every lover of his coun∣try must return thanks for the example he has given, to spur on emu∣lation for improvement, by proving the certainty of the effect. Gosforth was formerly part of the possessions of the family of Surtees,* 23.38 held of

    Page 325

    the Crown by the service of half a Knight's fee: it came to the prede∣cessors of the present owner some little time before the reign of King Edward VI.* 23.39

    We passed by

    BLAGDON,

    the seat of Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. a handsome square build∣ing, in the mode of architecture, and with such ornaments as prevailed in the close of the last century. It is covered with fine plantations.

    This was anciently one of the manors of the barony of Morpeth, held by John de Plesses, as appears by the escheats of King Edward I. Plesses was a benefactor to Newminster. A fee for cornage, of 1s. 1½d. yearly, on the feast of St. Cuthbert, was anciently paid out of this manor.

    At the distance of two miles, we passed

    STANNINGTON,

    another dependent manor of the barony of Morpeth, anciently called Cooks Land. It was chargeable with a cornage rent, payable on the day of St. Cuthbert. The church stands on the north side of the village. One of the Merleys, Baron of Morpeth, founded a chantry here, with several endowments.† 23.40 The advowson of the church of Stannington was given by Roger de Somerville to the priory of Newminster.

    Page 326

    Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. in the summer 1772, decorated the chancel windows, which are of the true old Gothic taste, with some curious painted glass, finely coloured, of various scriptural designs and arms of religious houses, supposed to be 500 years old.

    We took our next departure from Morpeth, to visit Tynemouth. In this rout we passed through

    BEDLINGTON,

    part of the territories called the patrimony of St. Cuthbert, and a manor belonging to the See of Durham, which, as an exclusive liberty, obtained the appellation of the shire of Bedlington. It is bounded by the rivers Blyth on the south, and Wansbeck on the north. In all matters of law and civil jurisdiction, it is a member of the county palatine, and (as I mentioned before when speaking of Norham) anciently had courts and officers of justice within its own limits, appointed under commission from the Bishop of Durham, as well Justices, Sheriffs, Escheators, as Coroners, and all other officers of justice. The statute made in the 27th year of King Henry VIII. divested the palatine of those royal franchises, and resumed the same to the Crown.* 23.41 An ancient offering to the Hos∣pital of St. Giles, in Durham, of a thrave of corn out of every plough land for the relief of Pilgrims, about the time of King Richard II. was granted by the land owners, payable on the feast of St. Michael. It was afterwards compounded for a money payment.

    Page 327

    The town of Bedlington is in a low but pleasant situation; it con∣sists of one long street. The church is an ancient structure, but has no monuments of note.

    In the year 1659, when the lands belonging to the See of Durham were put up to sale by the Parliament, this manor, with Choppington farm, were purchased by Robert Fenwick, Esq for 1296l. 5½d.* 23.42

    Near this place is a considerable iron foundery.

    BEBSIDE,

    which was in our view from the road, was a manor appertaining to the priory of Tynemouth.

    NEWSHAM and SOUTH BLYTH

    lay to our left, the property of a younger branch of the Cramlingtons in the reign of Queen Elizabeth;† 23.43 afterwards purchased by Colonel Thomas Radcliff; it is chiefly the possession of Sir Matthew White Ridley. Blyth is a pretty village, situate on the south side of the river Blyth, with a com∣modious port for small craft.

    The navigable river and port of Blyth were of consequence to the Bishops of Durham in ancient times, and are named in their records with the Tyne, Wear, and Tees, as being subject to their jurisdiction, where they enjoyed all royal rights.‡ 23.44 The Bishops of Durham still continue to lease out the anchorage, beaconage, plankage, wharfage, ballast key, and wastes between the high and low water marks of Blyth, and all the wrecks of the sea on that coast.§ 23.45

    Page 328

    CRAMLINGTON

    lay on our right, a member of the barony of Guagy, the ancient pos∣session and residence of the family of Cramlingtons.* 23.46 Male issue failing in William de Cramlington, during the reign of King Henry V. these estates came to his two daughters as coheiresses; one of whom married William Lawson,† 23.47 through which they soon after centered in that family.

    The appearance of

    SEATON DELAVAL

    now engaged the eye; the spreading plantations extended over the plain afforded an agreeable scene, which was beautifully improved by the distant prospect of the ocean.

    Seaton Delaval is the chief seat of Sir John Hussey Delaval, Bart. in the principal manor of the barony of Seaton Delaval. There is in the Herald's office a very particular pedigree of this Gentleman's ancestors, entered in Sir William Dugdale's Visitation of Northumberland, which commences at the time of the Norman conquest: Sir Henrick Delaval, second son of Guido Lord of Delaval, carried one of the head banners, when his cousin William Duke of Normandy conquered England;‡ 23.48 and

    [figure]

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    [figure] depiction of Seaton Delaval
    SEATON DELAVAL North Front

    Page 329

    it is very remarkable that the present possessor of this fine place derived his descent from the Dukes of Normandy on his mother's side also, who was a grand daughter of Sir Thomas Hussey of Doddington, in the county of Lincoln, which noble house and estate belong to him.

    Page 330

    In the north front * 23.50 of this magnificent structure, consisting of five stories, the whole of which is built of beautiful stone, and of the most excellent masonry, there is a flight of 16 steps on each side of the up∣permost landing; there are three superb doric columns, which by their bold projectures give an extraordinary effect to their richly embellished entablatures; immediately over these are placed handsome vases on pe∣destals: here the attic story rises, having a grand pediment, with a tri∣angular tympanum (in which the arms of the family and various tro∣phies are carved, and so relieved that all their parts are perfectly seen free from its entablature). This facade is rendered extremely beautiful by the breaks and fine proportions of its parts, and by the excellent sculpture with which it is dressed; and the whole is crowned with a ballustrade and proper pedestals on which urns are placed: at each end hereof are seen the upper external parts of the grand staircases, rising nearly to the height of the apex of the central pediment, which afford a very graceful effect, being ornamented with a series of round ballusters terminated by pedestals, out of which arise, in form of urns, the tops of chimneys. The perron to the portal has two landing places, the upper of which is of the height of the basement story, constructed boldly in bossage-work, serving as a basis for the edifice, and giving an appear∣ance of great strength to it. On each side hereof a corridor unites to the house two noble wings, adorned with beautiful arcades, extending along the whole length of the fronts. These as well as the body of the house are all covered with lead; their perfect unity therewith, their

    [figure]

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    [figure] depiction of Seaton Delaval
    SEATON DELAVAL South Front

    Page 331

    graceful projections, niches, and pediments, form a most grand and pleasing court, being terminated with two beautiful pavilions, con∣nected also by a corridor. The first room which you enter is a most stately hall, 44 feet long and 44 feet high; here all the ornaments strike by simple but grand uniformity. Numerous arches, recesses, and niches please the informed observer, more with the harmony of their proportions than with the splendour of their decorations. The floor is of a black and white marble, and the chimney-piece finely adapted to the great stile of the room; the figures which support it are exquisitely executed, as are the basso relievos, and all the decorations: opposite to the door is a grand music gallery, faced with elegant iron ballustrades upon a fine entablature, and supported by beautiful consoles: in the uppermost niches are statues as large as the life, admirably executed by the best Italian Artists, with their attitudes and symbols representing Music, Painting, Geography, Sculpture, Architecture, and Astronomy; and in the interstitial solids are the pictures at full length of Sir John and Lady Hussey Delaval, and their children. The ceiling is extremely elegant to the right and left passages, paved with marble, leading through lofty arches to handsome rooms, wainscotted with mahogany, in which are the pictures of Admiral Delaval, and others of Sir John's ancestors, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, and other good portrait painters; and also to the two grand winding geometrical stone staircases, 17 feet in diameter, reaching from the bottom to the top of the house, of a structure which has been greatly admired by all who have seen them, having iron ballusters of a very light and elegant form. The hall leads to a splendid saloon, front∣ing the pleasure grounds, 75 feet long, and from the door at which you enter it to the folding glass doors on the opposite side thereof it is 30 feet wide: these open into a most magnificent portico, of the Ionic order, tetrastite, of which the columns are three feet diameter. In this room there are eight majestic fluted Corinthian columns of the most beau∣tiful stone, and the same number of pilasters, which divide it into three spaces; the ceiling was executed by the famous Italian artist Vercelli, and is exquisitely modelled, and admirably coloured: here are several finely painted whole length pictures of this family. At the east end is a small antichamber, which leads into a spacious drawing-room, and also into a lesser drawing-room contiguous to an an elegant eating-room beautifully ornamented with festoons of fruit and flowers, formed of a most durable composition, and so admirably painted as perfectly to re∣semble nature. Collateral to these stately apartments are others for re∣tirement and waiting-rooms, connected with a stone winding staircase

    Page 332

    of fine workmanship, being ten feet three inches in diameter, and com∣municating with the great staircase at every landing-place, through either of which you may ascend to a grand gallery on the next floor, on each side whereof are several large and finely proportioned bed-chambers, and from whence you may pass into 14 new rooms lately built by Sir John, among which are several stately bed-chambers and dressing-rooms; and he has also highly ornamented the greatest part of this fine mansion with new and rich furniture. Most of the best rooms have marble chimney-pieces of admirable workmanship. All the offices in the base story, which are very numerous, are arched with hewed stone, from whence you may go on the same level to the east and west wings; in the former thereof are the noble stables, the chief of which is 62 feet long and 41 wide, and 24 feet 8 inches high, the roof being supported by three superb arches 21 feet 4 inches high: the divisions of all the stalls and the niches for the hay are of stone. In this wing there is a gallery extending the whole length of its front, and several commo∣dious rooms. The other wing contains a spacious and lofty kitchen and offices of all kinds on the ground floor; and in the second floor se∣veral good apartments, and a gallery also reaching along the whole length of it. This splendid seat stands in part of the pleasure grounds, surrounded by a ha-ha, having a wall of hewn stone nine feet high, and considerably more than a mile in circumference, which is not seen from the house. Here are several walks disposed with great taste, some of which are shaded as well by lofty old trees as plantations, through which various vistas are cut, some of them being terminated by elegant stone buildings, and others opening delightful prospects to the sea towards the east, greatly heightened by ships which are frequently sailing in sight of the windows: to the south there is a fine view over a verdant lawn to another bay of the sea, where frequently 150 sail of colliers may be seen, and enriched with the fine ruin of Tynemouth Priory, a grand obelisk, and several villages and hamlets interspersed, forming a very beautiful landskip: to the west there is an avenue of a mile and quarter long, and to the north a view of a great part of Northum∣berland, extending over a space of 60 miles, terminated by the august mountains of Cheviot. This house stands within a few yards of the place where Delaval Castle, the ancient baronial seat of the family, for∣merly stood. Near the house is the family chapel,* 23.51 of Saxon antiquity,

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    [figure] depiction of Hartley Haven
    HARTLEY HAVEN
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    [figure] depiction of mausoleum
    MAUSOLEUM at Seaton Delaval

    Page 333

    where divine service is constantly performed: not far from thence there is an elegant Mausoleum, which has lately been built by Sir John and Lady Hussey Delaval to the memory of their late son, who was the delight not only of his parents, but of all who knew him; his endowments were so pleasing, and his manners so captivating, that the most able panegyrist would want words to give an adequate idea of this most admirable young man. No expence has been spared in this pious edifice, which has been justly admired by every one who has seen it; the perron to the entrance being of the height of the zocle of the building, serves as a continual pedestal to it; the portico is of the doric order tetrastite, the columns of which are each formed of one single stone, weighing several tons, bearing a handsome pediment with a triangular tympanum: the dres∣sing of the whole is elegant and simple; a cupola covered with lead, rising majestically in the centre, produces a very solemn appearance: the inside is of the form of a chapel, having a nave in the middle, with an altar or communion table, above which a solemn dome is sup∣ported by semicircular arches, opening to an aile on each side, in which are several arches and niches for the reception of tablets, inscriptions, and monuments; underneath are catacombs strongly arched, and of most durable workmanship: they are all founded, as is the whole of this structure, upon a rock; and as all the stones of which it is com∣posed are large, and set so close together as not to admit of any wall falling, it is calculated to last as long as the work of man can do: it is enclosed by a ha-ha wall of 11 feet high and 5 feet thick, so wrought and put together as to have a rocky appearance, giving the idea of long duration; and by forming from its rudeness a strong con∣trast to the building, which is all polished as well as stone can be, pro∣duces an admirable effect.

    A delightful shady walk, of a mile long, leads to Sir John's port of Hartley,* 23.52 whence his coals, well known in London by that name, are

    Page 334

    shipped. There are also large salt works and copperas works, and like∣wise very considerable glass works, which were built by Thomas Delaval, Esq and purchased of him by Sir John, who has cut through a solid and hard rock a new entrance into his harbour, which is 52 feet deep 30 feet broad, and 900 feet long: this great work he did at his own private expence, which no person has any share or concern in but him∣self: no ships come hither except for his coals, salt, glass, and copperas; the three last-mentioned works are carried on here for the sake of con∣suming the small coals of his colliery, which would without them be of no value. Before this new entrance was effected, the opportunity for exportation here was very confined, as the ships, for want of a suf∣ficient depth of water in the old entrance, were obliged to be loaded with keels, whereas they can now sail out with their full loadings. These works produce to the public a revenue of above 20,000l. a year, and afford Sir John the means of constantly supporting several hundred people who live upon his estate in honest industry, in which he and Lady Hussey Delaval take great delight.

    Sir John has also made a little harbour of refuge in St. Mary's Island, for the safety of the Fishermen upon this coast, by which many have been saved who could not possibly, in certain winds, have reached any other harbour.

    Conceiving it might prove most agreeable to the reader to find a particular description of

    FORD CASTLE,

    which Sir John Hussey Delaval considers as his sporting seat, imme∣diately succeeding that of the princely mansion of Seaton Delaval, I re∣served it for this place.

    Page 335

    From Yevering Bell, and the eminences beyond Wooler, it has a noble appearance, arising from a fine cultivated plain. This Castle was re-edified by Sir John, the antique stile being well preserved in the design; two towers, one on the east flank, and one on the west, being the only remains of the old castle which are retained in this edifice. The work was begun in the year 1761, and compleated in two or three years. The front is to the south, the centre of which is formed by a semi∣hexagonal projection, and its terminations are square turrets; from whence, on each hand, a regular wing is advanced. On the west side of the area in front, is an old square tower of singular form, it being composed of two turrets, one arising above another; the upper one being so much less than that which supports it, as to afford a spacious battlement. The area is enclosed by a wall embrazured and garnished with turrets, the entrance to which is by a spacious gateway: the wall is defended by corner towers.

    This castle is seated on the east banks of the river Till: It appears by Madox's Exch. p. 647, that Sir William Heron built it in the 12th year of the reign of King Henry III. A. D. 1227, the estate having come to his family by an intermarriage with the heiress of Ford, who derived her descent from Odonel de Ford, as is mentioned in the pre∣ceding page 19, and who was seized thereof in the time of King Henry I.

    The castle commands a fine prospect up the valley as far as Wooler bounded by lofty eminences, which rising swiftly, are broken in the most agreeable and romantic manner. To the westward, at about the distance of a mile and a half, you view Flodden Hill, marked to the eye by a rising plantation of firs,* 23.53 which crowns the eminence, and gives a beautiful object upon the landskip. In great floods the Till over∣flows several hundreds of acres of flat ground; the extensive sheet of water makes a grand appearance from the castle: when it subsides, the plain is left covered with a most fertilizing mud, by which the soil is greatly enriched.

    From the happy taste her Ladyship possesses for a rural life, Sir John has advanced the more rapidly in those works of improvement which

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    mark the adjacent country. The fair example becomes illustrious, by the contrast which is seen in the lives of persons of equal rank and opulence. The works which are spread around Ford and Seaton Delaval, whilst they dispense felicity to innumerable laborious families, contri∣bute greatly to the general opulence of the state. No panegyric can pay due praise to those who thus employ their abundant wealth: the effect is not contracted within the circle of Sir John's possessions, the example influences as it carries with it conviction, and many are thereby induced to cultivate and improve the adjacent estates, recovering from a prepossession of ages of ignorance, that the nature of the soil and cli∣mate would frustrate their attempts. A vast tract of land, on which you look from Ford, was within 20 years last past, one continued sheep-walk; now intersected and enclosed with excellent quick-wood fences; the eminences adorned with fine plantations; the large and open farms which heretofore gave the country the aspect of poverty and desolation, are now subdivided, and let out into smaller allotments from 60l. to 200l. a year each, by which the country has become well peopled, and the lands, which for pasturage did not yield above one shilling per acre, now let for twenty-five shillings. The vice of enlarg∣ing farms, destroying villages, and thereby depopulating a country, was advanced to such enormity in the reigns of King Henry VII. and King Henry VIII. that it called for a parliamentary inquiry and restric∣tion. No language can more strongly express the error, than the pre∣amble of the statute of the 25th of King Henry VIII. cha. 14.

    For as much as divers and sundry persons of the King's subjects of this realm, to whom God of his goodness hath disposed great plenty and abundance of moveable substance, now of late within few years have daily studied, practised, and invented ways and means how they might accumulate and gather together into few hands as well great multitude of farms as great plenty of cattle, and in especial sheep, putting such lands as they can get to pasture, and not to tillage, whereby they have not only pulled down churches and towns, and enhanced the old rates of the rents of the possessions of this realm, or else brought it to such excessive fines, that no poor man is able to meddle with it, but also have raised and enhanced the prices of corn, cattle, wool, pigs, geese, hens, chickens, eggs, and such other, almost double above the prices which have been accustomed; by reason whereof a marvelous multitude and number of the people of this realm be not able to provide meat, drink, and cloaths necessary for themselves, their wives and children; but be so discouraged with
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    [figure] depiction of forge
    The FORGE near FORD CASTLE

    Page 337

    misery and poverty, that they fall daily to theft, robbery, and other inconveniences, or pitifully die for hunger and cold. And as it is thought by the King's most humble and loving subjects, that one of the greatest occasions that moveth and provoketh those greedy and covetous people, so to accumulate and keep in their hands such great portions and parts of the grounds and lands of this realm from the occupying of the poor husbandmen, and so to use it in pasture and not in tillage, is only the great profit that cometh of sheep, which now be come to a few persons hands of this realm, in respect of the whole number of the King's subjects, that some have 24,000, some 20,000, some 10,000, some 6000, some 5000, and some more and some less; by the which a good sheep for victual, that was accustomed to be sold for 2s. 4d. or 3s. at the most, now sold for 6s. or 5s. or 4s. at the least; and a stone of clothing wool, that in some shires of this realm was accustomed to be sold for 18d. or 20d. now sold for 4s. or 3s. 4d. at the least; and in some counties where it hath been sold for 2s. 4d. or 2s. 8d. or 3s. at the most, is now sold for 5s. or 4s. 8d. at the least, and so are raised in every part of this realm: Which things, thus used, be principally to the high displeasure of Almighty God, to the decay of the hospitality of this realm, to the diminish∣ing of the King's people, and to the let of the cloth-making, whereby many poor people have been accustomed to be set on work; and in conclusion, if remedy be not found, it may turn to the utter destruc∣tion and desolation of this realm, which God defend.
    —By this law, which is still subsisting, no farmer, under a penalty to be levied by Justices of the Peace, should hold more than two farms, and they to be in one parish, where he should reside; and no farmer to have above 2000 sheep.

    Not only the pleasure her Ladyship takes in promoting Sir John's at∣tention to the improvements of the adjacent lands, she also, I am in∣formed, was a chief cause of the Iron Manufactory carried on near Ford, being brought to its present significance. About a mile down the river, a Plating-Forge was erected in 1769, where a large quantity of shovels, spades, and other plate-iron works are made, as well for home con∣sumption, as for exportation at the ports of Berwick, Newcastle, &c. The scheme, when carried to its intended extent, will be of great con∣sequence to this part of the country. The situation of the Forge is ro∣mantic, and the whole scene picturesque. The water to supply the wheels is collected by a dam, and forms a fine canal, from whence it

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    breaks over the wear in a beautiful cascade; and being intercepted in its lower course by rocks and hillocks, divides itself into several streams. The buildings for the forge, as you look up the river, lay to the left; on the opposite side is a water-corn-mill: the vale seen above the canal consists of cultivated and enclosed grounds, which are highly contrasted by the lofty eminences which bound the prospect, finely broken and irregular, through which the light streams, and gives a singular beauty to the offscape: these at the extreme point of view are overlooked by Cheviot, awfully supreme and majestic, on whose brow heavy vapours are generally seen suspended.

    The family of Delaval had considerable possessions in

    ECHEWICK:

    Hubert Delaval and Richolda his mother gave a moiety of that manor to the priory of Hexham. The priory held lands there of the gift of others; one parcel the donation of Thomas de Echewick, and another of Peter de Fawdon. The abbey of Newminster also had lands in Eche∣wick, by the gift of John de Mitford, 3 King Henry VI.

    Roger Fenwick, Esq of Bitchfield, second son of Sir John Fenwick of Wallington, by Margery the daughter and heiress of John Harbottle, Esq married Ursilla daughter of Sir John Heron of Chipchase, Knt. and purchased of the Crown Echewick Hall with divers lands, to be held by fealty only, as of the manor of East Greenwich, subject to a certain fee-farm rent. In the year 1589, he settled the same on Anthony his second son, whose issue in the male line becoming extinct, the estate, about the year 1670, came to Ralph Scourfield, Esq of Newcastle upon Tyne, in right of his mother, who was the daughter of Geo. Fenwick of Newcastle, Merchant Adventurer, younger son of Anthony Fenwick. Ralph Scourfield of Echewick, Esq his only son, was High Sheriff for the county of Northumberland A. D. 1684: he died Sept. 1728, and lies buried within the rails of the communion table in the church of St. John, Newcastle. On his decease the estate descended to Edward Bell, Esq whose eldest daughter and coheiress, the present proprietor, in the year 1748, married George Spearman, Esq

    This family of Spearmans derives descent from Le Sire D'Asperemont, son of the Count D'Asperemont, who accompanied King William the

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    Conqueror to England. The corruption of the name has been attri∣buted by some of the family to an atchievement in the holy wars under Prince Edward, afterwards King Edward I. The ancestors of George Spearman, Esq were settled at Preston, in the parish of Tynemouth, for some centuries. John of that family, in the beginning of this cen∣tury, left by will a chalice for the communion, and a yearly stipend for a Schoolmaster in the parish of Tynemouth.

    But to return from this digression:—From the mausoleum at Seaton Delaval, the walk is extended to

    HARTLEY,

    which place was the possession of Adam de Jesmont, as appears by the escheats of the reign of King John: but in that age it was inconsider∣able, when compared to its present state.

    The river anciently made its course due east, until it was within a little way of the sea, and then suddenly made a turn, and discharged itself in a course due north. The sea banks at this point form an angle, one side facing to the north, and the other almost full east. At the point of this angle, Sir Ralph Delaval erected his works, to secure his little haven at the mouth of the river, as mentioned in the foregoing note: but Sir John, in an age much advanced in mechanic knowledge, brought his haven into its present state, by cutting through the rock, from the point where the river anciently turned towards the north, to the sea on the east side of the angle, so that the current now discharges itself into the sea in a straight direction, almost due east, and forms a harbour accessible with every wind, and a moorage secure against every storm.

    Over the cut, a drawbridge is cast for the passage of the inhabitants.

    A little to the west lays

    SEGHILL,

    mistaken by Camden for the Roman Segedunum, now the possession of Sir Lancelot Allgood: formerly the seat and manor of a branch of the

    Page 340

    Mitford family, who built the tower, the remains of which still ap∣pear.* 23.54

    We passed by the Monks stone, about two miles north-west of Tyne∣mouth. The best account which has yet been given of it, is by Mr Grose, which I shall take the liberty to transcribe. It appears to me to be the ancient boundary mark of the priory district: many obelisks of this kind being fixed on the boundaries of church lands in the northern counties.

    A gentleman in the neighbourhood remembers it standing, though in a tottering condition, and much out of the perpendicular: he thinks it was then near ten feet high: it has lately been thrown down and broken; two pieces of it are now remaining, one of which, measuring three feet and a half, has been set up, the other, of about three feet, is the part represented (in Mr Grose's plate) lying on the ground; on the pedestal is the inscription, O horror, to kill a man for a pigges head: the characters seem more modern than the obelisk. This monument is of a whin stone; its plan, what is called an ob∣long square: it is injured by time, and besides which, the country people have punched it so full of round holes, and otherwise so defaced it, as not only to render its ornaments unintelligible, but also to make it doubtful, whether all its sides, or only the two broadest were ornamented.
    The following traditionary story, relative to this monument, is also given by Mr Grose.
    A Monk of this monastery, strolling abroad, came to the house of Mr Delaval, an ancestor of the ancient family of that name, who was then absent on an hunting party, but was expected back to dinner: among the many dishes preparing in the kitchen, was a pig ordered purposely for Mr Delaval's own eating: this alone suiting the liquorish palate of the Monk, and though admonished and informed for whom it was intended, he cut off the head, reckoned by epicures the most delicious part of the animal, and putting it into a bag, made the best of his way towards the monastery. Delaval, at his return, being informed of the transaction, which he looked upon as a personal insult, and
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    [figure] depiction of Tynmouth Abbey
    TYNMOUTH

    Page 341

    being young and fiery, remounted his horse, and set out in search of the offender; when overtaking him, about a mile east of Preston, he so belaboured him with his staff, called a hunting gad, that he was hardly able to crawl to his cell. The Monk dying within a year and a day, although as the story goes the beating was not the cause of his death, his brethren made it a handle to charge Delaval with his murther; who before he could get absolved, was obliged to make over to the monastery, as an expiation of this deed, the manor of Elsig, in the neighbourhood of Newcastle, with several other valuable estates; and by way of amende honourable, to set up an obelisk, on the spot where he properly corrected the Monk. Elsig was afterwards made the summer retreat of the Priors of Tynmouth.
    This story, like many others of the like kind, is very defective in several parts; no date is affixed, and the above-mentioned monument is shewn in support of it; it seems difficult to account for this Monk being so far from his monastery, especially alone, which was strictly prohibited by their rules: and this not being of the Mendicant order, he could not be going on the quest. The only method of reconciling it, is to suppose that this personage was a lay-brother, and servant to the house. It however shews how dangerous it was to injure the meanest retainer to a religious house: a peril very ludicriously, though justly expressed in the following old English adage, which I have somewhere met with: "If perchaunce one offende a Freeres Dogge, streight clameth the whole brotherhood, an heresy! an heresy!"

    The town of

    TYNEMOUTH

    is well built, being a place of great resort in the bathing season. The Inns are good, and there is every accommodation to render the situation agreeable.

    The present church stands a mile west from the town, and was con∣secrated by Bishop Cosins, 20 King Charles II. A. D. 1668.

    THE PRIORY

    lies to the east end of the town, on a peninsula formed of stupendous rocks, on the north side of the mouth of the river Tyne, against which heavy seas break with great vehemence and tumult. The approach to the priory in its present state is from the west, by a gateway tower of a

    Page 342

    square form, having a circular exploratory turret on each corner: from this gateway, on each hand, a strong double wall has extended to the rocks on the sea shore, which from their great height have been esteemed in former times inaccessible. The gate with its walls was fortified by a deep outward ditch, over which there was a drawbridge, defended by moles on each side. The tower comprehends an outward and interior gateway, the outward gateway having two gates at the distance of about six feet from each other, the inner of which is defended by a portcullis and an open gallery: the interior gateway is in like manner strengthened by a double gate. The space between the gateways, being a square of about six paces, is open above, to allow those on the top of the tower and battlements to annoy assailants who had gained the first gate. By dif∣ferent accounts it appears, that there was a place of considerable strength here in very remote antiquity: Camden says,

    there are some appre∣hend that the rampier, not the (Roman) wall, went as far as to the very mouth of Tyne, and affirm it was called Pen-bal-crag, that is, the head of the rampier on the rock. I dare avouch, this was in the time of the Romans Tunnocellum, expressing the promontory of Tunn or Tyne, where lay the first cohort Aela Classica, enrolled (probably from the name) by Aelius Hadrianus, the Emperor, and in pay for sea ser∣vices: for the Romans had certain light pinnaces, termed Luforiae, upon the rivers.
    —What it was in the time of the Saxons, as a forti∣fication, we have little or no evidence to be depended upon. The si∣tuation on the ostium of so important a river, and so well calculated for the command of this shore, induced William the Conqueror to order it should be converted into a fortress: the religious inhabitants were ill suited to this plan, and the first degradation of this monastery was by WALTHEOF Earl and Governor of Northumberland, at the command of his Sovereign, who it is known had very little veneration for religious institutions. At this period it was fortified with the wall and tower before described. Robert Mowbray, Earl of Northumberland, made choice of it for his stronghold, when he rebelled against King William Rufus. But as it usually happens with rebels, he had ill success: being closely besieged, he withdrew himself into the monastery, and claimed the be∣nefit of sanctuary, a protection presumed to be inviolable in those days. Notwithstanding which, he was dragged forth by the conquerors, car∣ried to Windsor, and held in close durance there for a long time before he was put to death.* 23.55 On its being converted into a fortress, it took
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    [figure] depiction of Tynmouth Abbey
    The North West View of TYNMOUTH.

    Page 343

    the name of Tynemouth Castle; it belonged to the Earls of Northum∣berland from the time of Waltheof for several generations. In Peck's Desiderata Curiosa, Tynemouth Castle is mentioned in the list of castles, bulwarks, and fortresses garrisoned in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, whereby it appears here was a master gunner and six inferior gunners. In Camden's time it was in good repair: he says,

    it is now called Tynemouth Castle, and glories in a stately and strong castle.
    It was besieged by the Scots in 1644, when the garrison were obliged to sur∣render to the arms of the Parliament, and submit to their instructions. On this occasion there was delivered up 38 pieces of cannon, a great stand of arms, with stores of ammunition and provision of very consi∣siderable amount. Several of the garrison, (it is said during a violent storm) escaped by the privies. A large sum was appropriated by Par∣liament to restore the injury this fortress sustained in the siege, and Colonel Henry Lilburn was made Governor: but he deserting his party, the garrison soon after revolted. Sir Arthur Hezelrig, who lay at New∣castle, marched immediately to reduce them, and took the place by storm: the men scaling the walls in the most intrepid manner, at the mouths of the cannon, entered by the embrazures and port-holes; and after a short engagement with the garrison within the fortifications, soon became masters of it. In the conflict Lilburn was slain.

    On passing the gateway, the scene is strikingly noble and venerable; the whole enclosed area may contain about six acres; the walls seem as well calculated for defence as the gateway tower; the view is crowded with august ruins; many fine arches of the priory are standing; the most beautiful part of these remains is the eastern limb of the church, of elegant workmanship. The ruins are so disunited, that it would be very difficult to determine to what particular offices each belonged. On the south side, adjoining the wall which stands on the brink of the cliff, are several spacious vaulted chambers, one of which I conceived was the kitchen, from the large extended fire-place; another the prison, with an aperture in the top of the vault, by which the miserable cap∣tive descended to his horrid dungeon. On the north and east sides, the cliffs appear to be about 10 perpendicular fathoms in height, at the feet of which, on a broken rocky shore, the sea beats impetuously. From the walls on the south side, you have a view of the batteries which command the mouth of Tyne, with the barracks for the garrison. On the north side, is a house built by Colonel Henry Villiers, once Governor of this fortress, together with a light-house, for the benefit of shipping

    Page 344

    passing this dangerous coast. These erections being made by licence from government, Villiers was authorized to receive one shilling for every British vessel, and six-pence for each foreign vessel anchoring in Shields harbour, which produced a revenue of about 80l. per annum: a trifling gratuity for so beneficial a work.* 23.56

    The ruins which present themselves in front, on entering the gate∣way, appear to be the remains of the cloister, to which you have access by a gateway of circular arches, comprehending several members in∣clining inwards, and arising from pilasters. After passing this gate, in the area many modern tombs appear, the ground being still used for sepulture. The west gate entering into the abbey is still entire, of the same architecture as that leading to the cloister. The ground from the cloister to the south wall is almost covered with foundations of build∣ings, which I presume are the remains of the priory. Two walls of the east end of the church are standing; the end wall to the east con∣tains three long windows; the centre window, the loftiest, is near 20 feet high, richly ornamented with mouldings; some of rose-work, and others of the dancette, as the figure is termed in heraldry, or zig-zag, a decoration common to old Saxon architecture. The divisions or pil∣lars between the windows are enriched with pilasters of five members, with highly finished foliated capitals and cornices. Above the centre win∣dow, is an oval one with like mouldings, and the openings of a gallery on each side. Part of the south side wall of the choir is also standing, illuminated with four windows of like form as those to the east, and equally ornamented, though not of the same height; for above them are an equal number of small windows: the divisions or pillars between the larger windows are decorated with pilasters, of the same kind as

    Page 345

    those at the east end; in the divisions or pillars between the smaller windows, spring the groins of the arches which formed the roof, by their remains shewing they were ornamented with rich mouldings. The arches of the windows in this part are circular; the blank arches which are thrown upon the wall beneath the windows are pointed. The architecture through the whole of this part of the building is singularly light and beautiful; the erection consists of a red freestone, which en∣dures the weather well, in this stormy situation.

    Beneath the centre window at the east end, is a doorway, of like ex∣cellent workmanship, conducting to a small but elegant apartment, which I conceive has contained the shrine and tomb of St. Oswine. On each side of the door, is a human head, cut in a stile much superior to that of the general taste of the age in which they are supposed to have been executed. The apartment within is 18 feet in length, and nine feet in breadth and height. On the south side is an entrance from the open yard with two windows, on the north side three windows, and a cir∣cular window to the east, so elevated as to give place for an altar be∣neath: there are two niches for statues at the east end, a closet for the vessels for sacred offices, and a bason for holy water: on each side of the window is the figure of a Monk kneeling, and two of the emble∣matical animals commonly depicted with the Evangelists: the side walls are ornamented with pilasters, from whence spring the groins and arches of stone, which in various intersections form the roof; the joinings of which are enriched with circles of carved work, and the interstices of the roof are arched and constructed with thin bricks. The circles con∣tain sculptures of the divine Personages with the Apostles, of workman∣ship far from being despicable, and all the figures are in good preser∣vation. Round each sculpture is a circular belt with a sentence in the old English character, well raised, viz. Sanct. Petrus ora P. nobis, &c. each varied by the name of the personage to whom it is inscribed. The centre row consists of four circles; in one is the effigies of John the Bap∣tist, with the like sentence; in a second, towards the west, the effigies of our Saviour, with a Monk kneeling; in a third, to the east, the effigies of the Supreme, with the Lamb bearing an ensign; and in the fourth, a representation of the last judgment, with this sentence: In die judicii liberare nos. Above the door is the effigies of our Saviour with a globe in his hand, with morit P. nobis, subscribed; on each side of the door, an emblematical figure, as to the east. There are two escutcheons, the dexter one charged with bearings of Vesey, a cross sable; the si∣nister,

    Page 346

    the bearings of Brabant and Lucy quarterly.* 23.57 Many little or∣naments are cut on the inferior roses on the arched work; as croslets, crescents, winged crosses, the old Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, as the emblem of sacred

    Page 347

    masonry, and the usual characters disposed over religious buildings Ihc, Jesus hominis conservator. On the outside of this erection, at the east end, are two coats armour, supported by cherubs; the one charged with a cross, the arms of the monastery of St. Albans, the other, with

    Page 348

    three crowns; which latter was the proper arms of the monastery * 23.70 of Tynemouth.

    The time when this monastery was first founded, as well as the founder, are both uncertain. By a passage in Leland's Collectanea, vol. 3. p. 42. it appears, that Edwin King of Northumberland, who began his reign about the year 617, and died in 633, built a chapel of wood at Tynemouth, wherein his daughter Rosetta took the veil; and that this chapel was afterwards rebuilt by St. Oswald with stone.† 23.71 Tanner, in his account of this house, says,

    Among the monasteries and churches founded by St. Oswald, the first christian King of Nor∣thumberland, this is reckoned to be one, though others ascribe its foundation to King Egfrid.

    Although the exact aera of its foundation cannot be ascertained, there are nevertheless sufficient proofs of its great antiquity: insomuch, that according to the learned author last cited,

    it is evident that St. Herebald, the companion of St. John of Beverley, was Monk and Abbot here in the beginning of the 8th century.
    ‡ 23.72 The personages who were interred here point out its consequence in those days.

    Page 349

    It suffered three several depredations from the Danes: the first about the conclusion of the 8th century;* 23.73 the second under Hunguar and Hubba, in the reign of King Ethelred; and the third in the reign of Athelstan. The desire of plunder urged those heathenish tribes of rob∣bers against the sacred places: on the second descent of those invaders, the Monks fled to their church for safety, and there suffered together with the hallowed pile; the Barbarians reducing the whole, with its

    Page 350

    religious assembly, to ashes. If we were allowed to trust, that vindic∣tive Providence sometimes wields an immediate scourge over the wicked, we should conceive the divine interposition was manifested on those inhuman murtherers, who were pursued by Ethelred King of the Nor∣thumbrians, and Offa King of Mercia, with a dreadful slaughter, and forced in great precipitation to their ships, when a succeeding storm strewed the shores, which had been conscious of their crimes, with their miserable carcasses and the wreck of their fleet.

    After the horrid massacre of the Monks, the monastery lay in ashes till the reign of Edward the Confessor, when Tostin Earl of Northum∣berland rebuilt and endowed it; but what order of religious were placed here, I have found no positive evidence. It was not till Mowbray's time Black Canons were settled here from St. Albans.* 23.74

    Page 351

    Tostin did not make this foundation from religious principles; he was prompted to it by ambition or other sinister views: his life was marked with savage barbarities, which drew upon him the wrath of his Prince, who banished him for his complicated and atrocious crimes. Thenceforth he attached himself to the King of Norway, who was ra∣vaging Scotland, and induced him to attempt deposing his own bro∣ther, Harold II. for which purpose he projected a descent at the haven of Tynemouth, from whence they pillaged all the country on the banks of Tyne. Putting again to sea, they entered the Humber, where they committed the most horrid cruelties, burning and laying waste the whole country, and imbruing their hands in a flood of innocent blood. In a little time they were opposed by a body of forces under the com∣mand of Edwin and Morchar; but in the conflict the Danes were vic∣torious. Harold with an army of 60,000 men, soon afterwards engaged the invaders, who were nearly equal in number, at Stanford Bridge, near York. The battle began at seven in the morning, and did not cease till three in the afternoon, when after a great slaughter of the Danes, Tostin and the Danish King being among the slain, victory de∣clared for Harold: and such were the bloody honours of the day, that out of 500 ships, with which the invaders entered Tynemouth haven, twenty, and those too by permission of the Conqueror, carried the young Prince with his remaining followers to Denmark.* 23.75

    Page 352

    This monastery was reduced to the title of a cell to Gynwin, after∣wards became a cell to Durham, and at last a cell to St. Albans.* 23.76 From the great disagreement in authors on these facts, it is difficult to deter∣mine by whom these several changes were made; but from the best au∣thorities, I am led to conceive the first degradation of this monastery was by Waltheof Earl of Northumberland, at the command of his King. To shew some colour or pretext for so flagrant an invasion of the rights of the church, he pretended it was an unfit situation for devotion (horridus & incultus). Mr Wallis's ideas are excellent on this subject: I will take them literatim, as he gives them in his work.

    It is so far from being an unfit place for devotion, that few can exceed it, for presenting the mind with a variety of solemn objects, capable of raising it to an adoration and awful reverence of the Deity. The very precipice it stands on, lofty and almost perpendicular, whose semicircular base withstands the fury of the waves, must have inspired the religious with a firm reliance on him who is the rock of ages: the calms—the storms—the ships, must all by turns have furnished them with occasions to praise him, whose wonders are seen in the great deep.

    The monastery was dismembered from Gyrwin, and made a cell to Durham,† 23.77 by Albric Earl and Governor of Northumberland, (Mr Grose says, by Agelwinas in 1065, who was Bishop of Durham, but quotes no authority) as an act of devotion to the memory of St. Cuthbert. Mowbray, when Earl of Northumberland, severed it from the church of Durham, and gave it to St. Albans, in or about the year 1090,‡ 23.78 he

    Page 353

    having repaired the church and offices, and placed therein Black Canons from that abbey. This was said to be done in resentment (as appears by Dugdale) for some affront he conceived he had received from the Bishop of Durham. It is remarkable, that the very altar which he thus presumed to profane, he sought to lay hold of as his sanctuary, when his unsuccessful plots brought upon him the wrath of his Sovereign. It is said by his treason he forfeited 280 Fiefs, so princely were his pos∣sessions.

    The Prior had the privilege of a market on Sunday, and the priory had many wealthy endowments, which were confirmed by the patents of many of our Kings, from King Henry I. to King Edward IV.* 23.79

    Page 354

    The badness of the situation, as alledged by Waltheof, was amply compensated by an advantage arising from thence: the Monks knew well how to avail themselves of it; the exalted rock on which this mo∣nastery stood, rendered it visible at a great distance at sea, in every di∣rection; whence it presented itself as if reminding and exhorting Sea∣men in danger, to make their vows, and promise masses and gifts to the Virgin Mary and St. Oswin for their deliverance. Vows of this kind were common among the ancients, and are to this day, it is said, made in some catholic states, where the walls of churches are covered with the paintings of ships, boats, and other votive memorials. Erasmus, in his piece intitled the Shipwreck, has very humourously described and ridiculed this custom of bribing heaven in case of sudden emergency. In Germany, below almost every dangerous fall or passage of the Rhine, there is a hermitage, whose Hermit, or his Agent, waits on the pas∣senger in the boat, as soon as it has passed over, requesting alms as a reward for his prayers, to the efficacy of which it is intimated he owes his safety. Something like this perhaps might be practised by the Monks, from which they would receive many emoluments, both in goods and money, for the celebration of masses; especially as the en∣trance into Shields harbour is at certain times both difficult and dan∣gerous.

    Many great personages lay interred here,* 23.80 and there have been of this house many learned men.

    Page 355

    Malcolm King of Scots, and his son Edward, slain near Alnwick 1094, 7th King William II. are interred here.

    King Edward I. after his victory over the Scots, visited the shrine of St. Mary and St. Oswin; and in 1303, his Queen resided here, when he was on his last march to Scotland.

    John Wethamstad, Abbot of St. Albans, was a Canon here. He was an Historian of great note. On his preferment, he presented to the altar of Tynemouth a chalice of gold.

    John de Tynmouth, an eminent sacred Biographer, was born here. He flourished about the year 1366.

    The following list of Priors is given by Brown Willis: Remegius 1092; William de Bedford 1124; Thomas More 1340; John Langton 1451; Thomas Gardiner 1528; Robert Blaceney was Prior at the disso∣lution, at which time he, with fifteen Prebendaries and three Novices, surrendered this house, 12th January, 1539, 30th King Henry VIII. and had a pension of 80l. per annum assigned him. In the year 1553, here remained in charge 37l. 12s. in annuities, and these pensions, viz. Thomas Castle 6l. 13s. 4d. Henry Woodal and Robert Bolland 61. each, Robert Gateshead and Robert Foreman 5l. 6d. 8d. William Carlisle, Stephen Hayman, Anthony Gardiner, George Jasper, Clement West∣minster, and Robert London 4l. Thomas Durham, Robert Charity, and George Faith 2l. each.

    The annual revenues of this monastery, unconnected with St. Albans, were at the dissolution valued by Dugdale at 396l. 10s. 5d. by Speed 511l. 4s. 1d.

    The scite of the priory, in the 5th year of King Edward VI. was granted to John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, but on his attainder reverted to the Crown, and remained ungranted until the 10th year of Queen Elizabeth, as is set forth in Tanner's Notitia.

    The manor of Tynemouth is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland.

    Much of the remains of the priory were pulled down by Mr Villars, for erecting the barracks, light-house, his own house near it, and other

    Page 356

    edifices: he likewise stripped off the lead which till then had covered the church.* 23.81

    The first day of our abode here was employed in drawing views of the august remains. The next morning being remarkably serene, awaked me early to revisit the same scene, and enjoy the sea breeze. I walked towards the cliffs—the sun cast a ruddy gleam over a calm ocean —the breeze scarce ruffled the leaping surge—the horizon glowed with clouds tinged with gold and crimson; above which the feint blue of the verge gradually deepened into azure, as the eye advanced towards the zenith—the sea appeared of a pale green, strip'd with silver, as the rays of light fell upon the tracks which were becalmed—the scene was enlivened by a fleet of vessels, 44 in number, of various degrees of bur∣then, which then passed in view—over the foreground of this prospect, the solemn ruins were disposed in melancholy arrangement, wearing a countenance more awful and majestic, from the shadows which the eastern sun occasioned to be cast on them—on the right hand and left, the landskip presented itself full of life and business; and to add to the effects this view had on the mind, the morning drum was heard from the garrison, the hum of the distant voices of busy men, and the sound∣ing of the hollow shore, beat by an advancing tide.

    Leaving Tynemouth, we passed within sight of the barracks and batteries to

    NORTH SHIELDS,

    which is not improperly compared to Wapping: the streets, lanes, and alleys are narrow, dirty, populace, and noisy. It is astonishing what business is incessantly going on here: we were told there lay in har∣bour, even at that season of the year, above 400 sail of ships of consi∣derable burthen. The crews of such a number of vessels, the carpen∣penters, ropers, victuallers, and men concerned in the merchandizing of such a fleet, must necessarily occasion a mighty concourse and bustle: to which being added the family of sailors residing here, makes the place resemble a hive of bees.

    Shields has advanced to its present state of populousness, trade, and riches, from a very low estate, within the space of two centuries: the

    Page 357

    church was begun to be built in the year 1659: in the beginning of the reign of King Edward I. it consisted only of six fishermen's hovels. By the arguments in a cause depending between the King and his Bur∣gesses of Newcastle and the Prior of Tynemouth, in the 20th year of that reign, it appears, that the Prior had built a town upon the bank of the water of Tyne on one side, and the Prior of Durham another on the other side, where no towns ought to be, only lodges for fisher∣men; and that the fishermen had there sold their fishes, which ought to have been sold at Newcastle: and that both the said Priors had caused to be made breweries and fisheries, having great ships, whereas they ought to have had but boats; and had caused bread to be baked there, which ought to have been baked at Newcastle. It was decreed, that neither at Tynemouth or Shields there be any sale of things saleable, as in meats, drinks, &c. and that ships should not be laden or unladen there. This will serve to shew what was the state of this place in the 13th century.

    We took a boat to examine this busy scene upon the water: the sight of so many vessels, and such a concourse of people, is very pleasing: it consequently brings to one's mind, reflections on the powers of human faculties. The genius of man is infinite; if we could be taught for 1000 years, we should discover at that period, from the learning we had acquired, that we had an infinity of subjects yet to learn: for the more knowledge man attains, the wider circle of objects unattained opens upon him. As the scale of numerical calculation is without end; as the variations of musical tones are infinite; so is man's genius. By the use of letters we have accumulated the learning of ages; yet after the conclusion of a few centuries, all our acquisitions will perhaps appear to posterity, as but minute members of the science of mankind. Before the use of letters, with the fall of empires, the accumulated knowledge of ages expired with them; but henceforth it will not be so.

    How wonderfully perfect is all maritime science now, to what it was in the most flourishing period of the Egyptian and Phoenician states! We are told the timber for building the temple at Jerusalem was floated in rafts: This shews the force of the shipping then employed. The mariners of antiquity seldom trusted themselves from the sight of the coast. The Grecian and Roman fleets were composed of insignificant vessels, compared with a British navy. The discovery of the magnet has given infinite powers to the Mariner; our geometrical principles

    Page 358

    have fitted our vessels for swift sailing and the carriage of great bur∣thens. The ark of Noah was little better than a huge cask rolling on the face of the deep; whose preservation was miraculous, and not me∣chanical, amidst the perils of an universal ocean. The vessels of the Phoenicians were little superior to our lime-boats; their rigging and devices for sailing greatly inferior: and the most excellent of the Roman gallies comparable only to the gilded barges of a Lord Mayor's shew. The most superb vessel we read of in antiquity was constructed by Archimedes:

    it was a whole year in building—had twenty benches of oars; the enormous pile was fastened together on all sides with huge nails of copper, that weighed each ten pounds and upwards: the inside had in it three galleries or corridors; the lowest of which led to the hold by a descent of stairs; the second to apartments, and the first to soldiers lodgings.

    On the right and left side of the middle gallery, there were to the number of thirty apartments; in each of which were four beds for men. The apartment for the officers and seamen had 15 beds, and three great rooms for eating; the last of which that was at the poop served for a kitchen. All the floors of these apartments were laid with small stories in different colours, taken from the Iliad of Homer. The ceilings, windows, and all the other parts were finished with wonderful art, and embellished with all kinds of ornaments.

    In the uppermost gallery there was a gymnasium or place of exer∣cise, and walks proportionate to the magnitude of the ship. In them were gardens and plants of all kinds, disposed in wonderful order. Pipes, some of hardened clay and others of lead, conveyed water all round to refresh them. There was also arbours of ivy and vines, that had their roots in great vessels filled with earth. These vessels were watered in the same manner with the gardens. The arbours served to shade the walks.

    After these came the apartments of Venus with three beds. This was floored with agates and other precious stones, the finest that could be found in the island. The walls and roof were of Cyprus wood. The windows were adorned with ivory, paintings, and small statues. In another apartment there was a library, at the top of which, on the outside, was fixed a sun-dial.

    Page 359

    There was also an apartment with three beds for a bath, in which were three great coppers, and a bathing vessel made of a single stone of various colours. This vessel contained 250 quarts. At the ship's head was a great reservoir of water, which held an hundred thousand quarts. All round the ship, on the outside, were atlasses of six cubits or nine feet in height, which supported the sides of the ship: these atlasses were at equal distance from each other. The ship was adorned on all sides with paintings, and had eight towers, proportioned to its bigness; two at the head, two at the stern, and four in the middle, of equal dimensions. Upon these towers were parapets, from which stones might be discharged upon the ships of an enemy that should approach too near. Each tower was guarded by four young men compleatly armed and two archers; the inside of them was filled with stones and arrows.

    Upon the side of the vessel, well strengthened with planks, was a a kind of rampart, on which was an engine to discharge stones, made by Archimedes: it threw a stone of 300 weight and an arrow of 12 cubits the distance of a stadium or 125 paces. The ship had three masts, at each of which were two machines to discharge stones. There also were the hooks and great lumps of lead to throw upon such as approached. The whole ship was surrounded with a ram∣part of iron to keep off those who should attempt to board it. All round were iron graplings disposed, which being thrown by the ma∣chines, might catch hold on the enemy's vessel, and draw them close to the ship, from whence it was easy to destroy them. On each of the sides were 60 young men compleatly armed: there were as many about the masts and at the engines for throwing stones.

    Tho' the hold of this ship was exceeding deep, a single man could clear it of all water with a machine made in the nature of a screw, invented by Archimedes.

    Hiero having found there was no port in Sicily capable of contain∣ing this vessel, except where it could not lay without Danger, resolved to make a present of it to King Ptolemy, and sent it to Alexandria.
    * 23.82

    Page 360

    This was a more unwieldy and ungovernable mass than Noah's ark: the comparison made between them and our shipping, excites no small degree of wonder how they could ever perform the navigation for which they were respectively designed.

    What luxury, what ease and splendour doth Britain enjoy, from the labour of her Mariners! things which we have rendered the common necessaries of our lives, are furnished from the distant quarters of the earth! even the very lower classes mix the produce of the East and West Indies for their common meal; our dwellings are decorated from all the regions of the world, and our tables are furnished with the dainties of every climate—the ancient eastern empires did not enjoy one half of our splendour or our luxury.

    When I compare this scene of man to the Shepherds haunts on the skirts of Cheviot mountains, I am astonished on each hand: at the wasted life and faculties of the Shepherd, and at the extended powers of the busy race before me.

    We passed by Howden Pans, where a large ropery and smithery are carried on.

    WALL's END

    lay in our way, formerly belonging to the Monks of Durham, given to them by William De Carilepho, Bishop of that See, in the year 1082; a pretty village, the name evidently derived from its situation on the extremity of the Picts wall.* 23.83 At a little distance lies

    CARR VILLE,

    once the seat of the Cosens's, named by Mr William Carr, who rebuilt it not many years ago. Near it is the extreme Roman station on the wall. By most Antiquaries it is admitted to be the Segedunum of the Romans, a name derived from its situation, and being a magazine for corn, for

    Page 361

    the supply of the Roman stations.* 23.84 It lay conveniently for the small vessels employed by the Romans on the coast, to scour the seas of pira∣tical rovers. From the ruins, it seems to have had a quay for the con∣venience of merchandize; or perhaps was decorated with some pleasure buildings on the shore. It was the station of the first cohort of the Lergi. In the walls of Mr Cousins's seat, before it was rebuilt, Mr Horsley observed several Roman inscriptions, which are preserved in his work.

    Page 362

    Severus's wall has very manifestly terminated in a square fort or station, above a furlong to the east of the mansion called Cousins's House. The ruins of a Roman station and town at this place are very discernible, though it has all been ploughed, and is now a very rich meadow. The stones and rubbish of the buildings are levelled, and covered with earth and grass, but yet the ramparts of the fort may be distinctly traced out, both they and the ditch being visible, almost quite round.

    In Mr Warburton's Vallum Romanum, and Mr Horsley's Brit. Rom. are the following particulars, which I will transcribe, as at the time I visited this station I could not traverse the ground without injuring the crops growing.

    There are very evident remains of two turrets at the western and eastern entries to the station, and of another at the south∣west corner. The west entry has been close to the wall, and the eastern one directly opposite to it. The fort has been about 140 yards, or perhaps six chains square, and so the contents of it above three acres and an half. About 60 yards of the western and eastern sides lie without, or to the north of the line of the wall, and eighty within it; so that the wall falls upon the sides of the station, not far from the middle of them. The south rampart of this fort is about three quarters of a furlong from the river side, and runs along the brow of the hill, or at the head of a considerable descent from thence to the river. There have been ruins of buildings on this part and to the south-west of the fort; but they are now so levelled and covered, that little evidence appears above ground; yet the stones and remains of rubbish are easily discovered, when the surface is any where removed: and some of these inequalities in the surface, which usually arise from ruins, yet remain, and may easily be perceived to be hillocks of stones or rubbish.
    * 24.1 Mr Gordon supposes, that the wall itself forms almost

    Page 363

    a right angle, and then is continued down to the side of the river: but it is the western rampart of the station which makes that angle with the wall: nor does this rampart reach the river, though it is likely the town or buildings without the fort may have extended so far. On the north side of the station there are some crooked risings and setlings of the ground, which at first view appeared to me not unlike a round fort or tower, projecting from the station with a triple rampart and ditch. The two closes in which the Roman town and station have stood, are called Wall Lawes. If the name Lawes be owing to the rising ground only, the termination Lawes or Lowes, which signifies hills, so far cor∣responds to the Roman name Segedunum. But as there were two dis∣tinct Tumuli observed by Mr Warburton remaining near a place he calls the Beehouses, and not far from these closes, he apprehends that from them they have borrowed this name; a Lawe or Lowe being one of those names by which Tumuli are frequently expressed. There was an altar and some centurial inscriptions at Cousins's House, in Mr Horsleys time.

    The wall having left this station, passes on westward, and at a little distance the remains of a castellum are visible. It is 60 feet square, like those mentioned in the most western parts of this county, it is built close to the wall, and wholly within it, on the south side. From hence the wall passes by Walker or Wallkier or Byker Hill, and thence de∣scends to Ewesburn, where are some ruinous heaps, which may pro∣bably have been the remains of some of the smaller exploratory turrets that have been placed all the way upon the wall. Hence the wall seems

    Page 364

    to have passed through the house at Red Barns, and enters Newcastle at Pandon Gate.

    Mr Horsley and other authors seem very doubtful of the vestiges of the military way, from the wall's end to Newcastle. Near the Red Barns, and upon the descent from Byker Hill to Ewesburn, they con∣ceived the track where it had gone might in some places be traced, but the appearance was so very faint and obscure, they would not insist upon it.

    As for Hadrian's vallum, Mr Warburton says he could no where in all this space discern the least track of it; nor did he ever hear of any traditionary account of its having been there.
    —Mr Pennant* 24.2 says,
    it was supposed to have reached no further than Pons Aelii, or Newcastle, on the east. But by an account he had recently received from Mr Robert Harrison of that town, he found it extended on this side as far as the wall of Severus. A broken stone has lately been discovered at Wall's End with this inscription:
    HADR— MVR. COND— HOC. MARM— POS. COSS D—

    The distance from the station at the end of the wall to St. Nicholas's church in Newcastle, is exactly three measured miles and five furlongs, and in this space there are three castella all visible: that which should have been next in course, is lost in the station at Newcastle.

    LITTLE BENTON and LONG BENTON

    were in our view as we passed. Little Benton, one of the manors of the barony of Heron, of which it was held by Eustace de Benton in the reign of King Henry III. now the residence of the family of Bigge.† 24.3 In the 11th year of King Edward II. it belonged to Jeffrey de Scroop, of Masham, in Yorkshire; afterwards it came to Ralph Lord Greystock; and in the reign of King Henry VI. it was the possession of William Fitz Hugh, and by him given to his son Henry.

    Page 365

    Long Benton, a dependant manor of the barony of Morpeth. The church stands at a little distance from the village, which with some lands in the parish were given by Sir Philip Somerville to Baliol College, Oxford, for the perpetual maintenance of six Scholars.

    HEATON

    lay to our right, anciently held of the barony of Gaugy, now the pos∣session of Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. an elegant mansion, orna∣mented with plantations in a good taste. The following account of this place and its possessors, I have extracted from the notes of Mr Bourne's History of Newcastle, page 114:

    It has been handed down by tradition to the present day, that this was a place of retreat for King John, when he came into this coun∣try; and there are still to be seen the ruins of an ancient building, which carries the name of King John's palace. On the north side of this old building are the remains of a fortification, which 'tis natural to conjecture was built for the safety and security of this house, and consequently this house must have been of some great distinction. Robert de Gaugy was a great man in the reign of King John, and had special trust reposed in him by his Sovereign, and it is not im∣probable when the King came to these parts he lodged at this house.

    The present house was built in the year 1713, and is so situated, that on the west it overlooks the Town Moor, Fenham, and part of the lands of the Prior of Tinmouth; on the east it faces the Shields road; on the north it has a most agreeable prospect to the windings of the Ouse burn, of its woods and banks, and of the villages situated on it; on the south it faces the river Tyne.

    Hardriding, near Haltwhistle, is the ancient seat of the Ridley fa∣mily: above one of the old doors there a date earlier than the con∣quest appears, and the initial letters of the builder N. R. This was a younger branch of the Ridleys of Willimoteswicke: of which branch was John Ridley, a Major in the service of King Charles I. in the Duke of Newcastle's army.

    Bishop Nicholas Ridley was of this branch, and was born here (Mr Bourn says) I presume he means at Hardriding. He was educated

    Page 366

    in grammar at Newcastle on Tyne. He suffered in 1555, near Baliol College, in Oxford.

    "Dr. Thomas Ridley was also of this family. He died in 1628."

    To our left lay

    BYKER,

    great part of which is the property of Sir Henry Lawson, Bart. It be∣longed anciently to the Bikers, who we find possessed thereof in the reign of King Henry III.* 24.4 and from that time to the 19th of King Edward III. In the reign of King Henry VI. it was part of the pos∣sessions of the Percys. In the 2d of King Edward IV. being in the Crown, was granted to the Duke of Clarence, the King's brother. The first possession of the Lawsons † 24.5 is noted in the escheats of the 10th of Queen Elizabeth. The manor was anciently held in grand serjeancy, by carrying the King's writ between the rivers Tyne and Coquet, and ma∣king distresses of goods for the King's debts.

    We approached Newcastle by Pampeden Gate. It is not my purpose to attempt a particular history or description of this place; the subject is too complicated and extensive to be treated at large, consistent with the plan I have hitherto pursued: a general account is all I shall at∣tempt. A worthy friend is compiling, with great labour and industry, and at vast expence, a general history and minute description of New-castle: to his labours I must refer the curious, who I doubt not will find therein infinite pleasure and satisfaction.

    NEWCASTLE,

    though greatly increased in size, wealth, trade, and number of inhabi∣tants since Camden's time, then merited the following description:

    It makes a glorious appearance, as the very eye of all the towns in this

    Page 367

    part of the kingdom; ennobled by a fine haven, where ships of great burthen lay in security. It is situate on the uneven risings of a hill, north of the river Tyne, over which is a fair bridge: on the left hand thereof stands the castle, and on the right the Market-place, and principal part of the city, in regard to the elegance of its buildings. From thence the ascent is very steep to the upper town, which is of much greater extent than the lower, graced with four churches, and fortified with strong walls, having eight gates, with several towers.
    This description given by Camden, compared with the present state of the town, will clearly point out the great improvements made therein since his time.

    It is admitted by all Antiquaries that this place is of Roman origin,* 24.6 but of what importance or magnitude the Roman station was which

    Page 368

    occupied a part of this ground, no evidence appears. Camden adopts the name of Gabrosentum, which he thinks might be derived from its vicinity to the steeps on the opposite shore of Tyne, as being the haunt of herds of goats. These etymologies are sometimes so constrained, that they rather bewilder than instruct. It is as probable the name of

    Page 369

    Gabrosentum might from the same cause extend to the cliffs and hills on both sides of the river. The Notitia places Gabrosentum within the wall, and makes it the station of the second cohort of Thracians. Other An∣tiquaries * 26.4 insist upon its name of Pons Aelii, where the Romans had a bridge to the southern shore, and that it was garrisoned by the Cohors Cornoviorum: this they attempt to confirm, from the traces of a military road discovered in a lineal direction from the bridge to Chester-le-street. Dr. Stukeley conjectures that this was the station Admurum of Richard of Cirencester,† 26.5 in his Map of Britania Romana. No altars or inscrip∣tions have been discovered to ascertain the name. If there was once a Roman station here, every vestigia thereof must long since have been destroyed, by the works of a large populous and ancient town. The remains of the Roman wall, or wall of Severus, have frequently been discovered by workmen, in digging the foundations of buildings in those parts of the town through which it lay. It passed from the west through the Vicarage gardens, the Groat Market, the north part of St. Nicholas's church, and from thence to Pandon Gate. This gate bears singular marks of antiquity; the superstructure is of different workmanship and model from any others on the town wall; the arches are circular, and there appears that natural decay on the whole struc∣ture, which might happen in such a number of years. Camden says,

    at Pandon Gate there remains, it is presumed, one of the turrets of the Roman wall, differing in form and workmanship from the others on the walls of the town.
    By the dimensions which I took of this gateway, I find it nearly-corresponds with the other ports or gates in the Roman wall. It is said the Carpenters Tower is also of Roman ori∣ginal. The reputed antiquity of Pandon Gate is denoted in a proverb of common acceptation: "As old as Pandon Yates."

    We have no authorities to fix the certain aera when or by whom this place was first inhabited from the evacuation of the Romans, or how long it remained deserted after their departure: like other strongholds within the defence of the Roman wall, it is reasonable to conceive it was very early resorted to by the distressed Britons, and was kept up by them as a place of security against the northern rovers. The first name we find it distinguished by in history was Monkchester,

    which shews that it was noted for being the habitation of religious men.
    ‡ 26.6 What society of religious (and whether Saxons or not) took up their

    Page 370

    residence here, at what time they first possessessed the place, or when they were expelled, are circumstances unknown: all the evidence re∣maining is the name only. Bede in his Ecclesiastical History and Life of St. Cuthbert is totally silent relative to them; and as his residence was at Jarrow, situated within a few miles, and he died in 735, the name of Monkchester and the residence of those religious must have suc∣ceeded his death. Mr Pennant says,

    their destruction must have been early, for the venerable Bede takes no notice of the place. The ruin therefore of this place cannot be attributed to the Danes, whose first invasion did not take place till after the death of that Historian.
    It appears to me the argument holds the other way; for had it been the residence of any religious society who suffered persecution, before or in the time of Bede, he would have noticed it. Fifty-nine years elapsed between the time of Bede's death and the first descent of the Danes on Northumberland: in this period of time the increase of reli∣gious houses was very rapid, and it is reasonable to conceive such ex∣amples as Landisfarn and Jarrow had produced, would greatly promote like institutions in their neighbourhood. From Hollinshead's authority we are induced to believe, that on the visitation of Aldwin, Alfrin, and Remfrid, in 1074,
    there was not a monastery remaining in this part of Northumberland, and scarce a church was left standing.

    This was a desirable situation for the Danes, when they entered the Tyne: and to that aera I am inclined to fix the destruction of the reli∣gious society which had settled here, and from whose residence the name of Monkchester was derived.

    In 1080, when Robert Courthose, the son of William the Conqueror, re∣turned from his Scotch expedition, he halted here to refresh his army; and finding the situation proper for a fortress to command the turbu∣lent Borderers, and the river well adapted for the reception of succours by sea, as well as trade, built a castle here, to which he gave the name of Newcastle, in contradistinction (it is said) to a small circular tower* 26.7 which the Monks held, or to the Roman turrets on the wall.

    From this period we may date the growing importance of the place: the protection of a fortress on the banks of so fine a river, would draw thither a great number of setlers, and trade would soon begin to flourish

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    under such propitious circumstances. There was so rapid a progress in its improvements, that before the death of King David I. of Scotland, who held it as a member of his earldom of Northumberland, it was be∣come a place of great importance, David having founded here two monasteries.* 26.8 Tanner says a nunnery was founded here as early as the conquest.

    Newcastle was defended by a strong wall, and an outward ditch of great depth, now much gone to decay. From Leland's account it appears, that this fortification was begun in the reign of King Edward I. and compleated in the reign of King Edward III. A rich citizen hav∣ing been taken prisoner in the middle of the town, by the hasty irrup∣tion of a hardy band of Scots, who would not set him at liberty with∣out a considerable sum for his ransom, on his return he set about to secure his native place by a wall; his fellow-citizens promoting so important a work for the protection of their merchandize and riches. In the 19th year of the reign of King Edward I. the royal licence for fortification was obtained. But it is the opinion of some that the northern wall was built in the reign of King John, and that the re∣maining part of this fortification began from the above event in the reign of Edward I. † 26.9 The circuit of the wall rather exceeds two miles: ‡ 26.10 it is defended by towers, the chief of which are of a cemi∣circular figure; machicolated towers are intermixed, but not regularly, which project a little over the wall; and there are also many guerrets.‖ 26.11

    There were seven ancient gates,§ 26.12 the names of which, together with those of the towers, point out the many contributors to so considerable

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    a work. To these gates two were added in more modern times; Bridge Gate, which guarded the pass of the bridge, and Sand Gate, which opens upon the river's banks. The wall formerly extended between Bridge Gate and Sand Gate, which part some few years ago was taken down to open the quay: an alteration greatly for the convenience of trade. The form of the wall there proved it to be of the most modern date of any part of the fortifications, there being therein many small gates to give access to the quays. Sand Gate had no tower above it as the other gates.

    THE GATE OF WALK-KNOWLE is said by some to be of Roman architecture,* 26.13 and part of Severus's work; its present superstructure, is modern, being the hall of the Carpenters company.† 26.14

    PAMPEDON is the next gate, formerly opening upon an ancient town of that name, which was united with Newcastle by the grant of King Henry III. A. D. 1299, whereby it was ordained,

    Et quod praedicta villa Novi castri et terrae & tenemen, predict. in Pampedon unica villa etcet. sunt, et unus Burgus, ad uniend. et concludend. dictam vallam Novi castri in emendationem et augmentationem ejus villae, &c.
    It is said that in Pampedon was a palace of the Saxon Kings of Northumberland.‡ 26.15 This gateway was defended by folding gates of iron:§ 26.16 the present ascent to the top of the wall is by stairs two

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    yards wide. From the remains of the superstructure it is not, at this time, possible to gain any certain idea of the form or capaciousness of the Roman turrets.

    The part of the wall which extends from Sand Gate to Pampedon, and from thence to the Austin Fryers Tower, is pointed out by Mr Wallis, as being the work of the Burgher, who was surprized by the Scots. King Edward III. granted to the Corporation the duties and customs of the town for the term of seven years, to enable them to compleat the fortification; but finding them negligent of a work of such importance, he revoked the grant, and constituted Henry de Percy, Ralph de Nevil, John de Fenwick, John de Creyk, and Robert de Fenwick, then Sheriff of Northumberland, Commissioners for keeping the town; after which the franchises were not restored to the Burgesses 'till they consented to perfect the work at their own costs.* 26.17 In the reign of King Henry VIII. this place is said to have exceeded in the strength and magnificence of its works, all the cities of England, and most places in Europe.† 26.18

    A small tower called Corner Tower.

    Austin Tower succeeds next in course, said to be built by the Friars of the order of St Austin for defence of their monastery, which stood near to it. It is now the hall of the Ropers Company, who re∣paired it A. D. 1698.

    Carliol Tower is next, deriving its name, as it is conjectured, from one of the family of Carliols, who were ancient burgesses here. Nicholas carliol was mayor in the second year of the reign of King Edward II. during whose mayoralty perhaps this tower was erected. It was re∣paired A. D. 1682, and fitted up as a hall for the Company of Weavers.

    The next in succession on the wall is Pilgrim-street Gate, being the great passage of Pilgrims to the shrine of the Virgin Mary at Jesmond, or Jesus Mount: as being one of the principal approaches from the north, this is a very strong edifice, flat roofed with embrazures, a port cullis and iron gates. A. D. 1716 it was repaired and made the hall of the Company of Joiners.

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    Ficket Tower is next, of which nothing remarkable is noted by Bourne and others.

    Bertam Mon Coucher tower is next. A person of this name was High Sheriff of the county of Northumberland in the 40th year of of King Edward the Third's reign, and for three successive years in the reign of King Richard II. but in what manner he was a contribu∣tor to these fortifications, or how this tower happened to take his name is not known.

    New Gate is next, the common prison, for which use its works are constructed of superior strength. The original gate was supposed to be one of the most ancient parts of this fortification, the Roman towers excepted. The present edifice is modern, the north front being orna∣mented with a statue of King Charles II. two wings were added within this century, one A. D. 1702, the other A. D. 1706, to enlarge and render the prison more commodious.

    Andrew Tower seems to derive its name from its vicinity to the church of St Andrews.

    Eure Tower, said to be built by the Eures, Lords of Kirkley and Barons of Witton in the county of Durham. The Colliers, Waggoners, and Paviors now use it as their hall.

    Morden Tower, repaired A. D. 1700 for the hall of the Plumbers, Glaziers, &c. who were incorporated in the year 1536.

    Black Friars Gate, built under authority of the royal Licence of Edward I.* 26.19

    Evardus dei gratiae rex Angliae, dominus Hiberniae Dux Aquitaniae, omnibus ad quos presentes Literae pervenerint, salutem. Sciatis quod de nostra gratia speciali concessimus dilectibus nostris fratribus praedicatoribus de novo castro super Tynam, quod per me∣dium novum murum circumagentem villam praedictam, quem per medium gardini praedictorum fratrum fieri oportebit, ut dicti facere possint, quandam strictam portam ad ingressum in Gardinum suum habend. portam sust. sibi et successoribus suis, tenere in perpetuum. Dum tamen porta illa ad voluntatem Nostram, vice comitis Nor∣thumbriae ad constabuli Nostri ibid. qui pro tempore fuerit, obstrua∣tur.

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    In cujus rei testimonium lias Literas nostras fieri Patentes; teste meipso apud Dunelm. decimo octavo die Septembris, anno regni nostri octavo.

    Heber Tower is now the hall of the Company of Armourers, Curriers, &c. who were incorporated in the 36th year of King Henry the Eighth's reign.

    Durham Tower is next in place, of which there is nothing remarkable.

    West Gate is a considerable edifice, excellently constructed, and very strong: it is defended by a port cullis and iron grated gates. This building is attributed to Roger Thornton, Esq* 26.20 whose memory in the annals of this place ought to be greatly distinguished for his munifi∣cence and liberal spirit. The Company of House Carpenters lately re∣paired and fitted up the tower for their hall.

    Pink Tower is next in succession, and in the next place a Postern opens upon the Firth.

    Gunner Tower and Stank Tower next succeed, of which nothing re∣markable is observed. The next

    West Spital Tower, or Saint Mary's, it is said was built by the master and brethren of St Mary's Hospital.

    The building of Nevil Tower is attributed to one of the great Nevils, Earls of Westmoreland: their family mansion stood near it. This Tower was repaired A. D. 1711, for the Masons, Bricklayers, and Plaisterers hall.

    In the next place is a Postern, called White Friar Gate: a convenient passage for the Carmelites or White Friars to and from their monastery.

    Not far from thence is the White Friar Tower, built on the summit of a vast eminence above the street called the Close: its form is circular: it is flagged on the top and embrazured; from thence you have the most extensive prospect any part of these fortifications commands: you view the whole of the upper town and great part of the lower, a vast

    Page 376

    tract of country down the river, and a landscape as beautiful and ex∣tensive towards the west and north as any in this part of Northumber∣land. This building is attributed to the House of Carmelites, which stood immediately opposite: its eminence is such, that from the Close Gate you ascend to it by 140 steps. The inner part of the tower con∣tains the Masons hall.

    The Close Gate is near the present extremity of the wall, on the banks of Tyne. I am inclined to conceive the ancient fortification of this town did not consist of an entire circumvallation, but that the walls terminated in two points as they approached the river near to Close Gate and Sand Gate.* 26.21

    Having described the walls, I must in the next place consider the interior fortress.

    The Castle, all authors agree, was built by Robert Carthouse, son of William the Conquerer, in the year 1080, on his return from his Scotch expedition: he perceived the great consequence of such a for∣tress on the frontiers, commanding so fine a river, and in a situation excellently calculated for assembling the northern levies on any dis∣turbance on the borders. The tower built by Robert was of great strength, square, and surrounded by two walls: the height of the tower is 82 feet, the square on the outside 62 feet by 54, the walls 13 feet thick, with galleries gained out of them: there was a chapel within the tower.† 26.22 The outward fortifications are now defaced, and their scite crowded with buildings. The tower still remains entire, the corners projecting from the plane of the square, a mode much practiced in the Norman structures. It is situate on a lofty eminence, commanding the whole town: the principal entrance is on the south. What num∣ber of gates were in the outward wall we cannot now determine, but from Bourne's account of it, which I shall quote in its proper place: the area inclosed by this wall contained three acres and one rood. The Castle belongs to the county of Northumberland, and makes no part of the liberties of Newcastle, or its Sheriffdom: the government of it, 21st September, 1st of King Henry VII. was granted to William

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    Close, Esq for life as Constable; and in the 9th year of the same reign it was granted to Roger Fenwick, Esq with 20l. per annum salary; since which time I do not find that any Constable has been appointed, but the Sheriffs of Northumberland had custody of the Castle. It now serves for the county prison, and in the great hall the Judges of assize hold the gaol delivery.

    Soon after the building of this castle, it is said by Bourne that Robert de Mowbray Earl of Northumberland, when in rebellion against King William Rufus, was besieged therein, and this fortress after suffering much damage was taken: but I confess I do not find sufficient autho∣rities to support this assertion of my author, and think it is much to be doubted. The Scots by treachery A. D. 1135, in the 1st year of the reign of King Stephen, gained possession of the castle and town, which they held to the year 1156, when Malcolm IV. ceded the northern counties to King Henry II.* 26.23

    The castle having suffered much by neglect in that and the succeed∣ing reign, King John restored it, and added a ditch to the fortifica∣tions, in doing which he was obliged to destroy several houses: as a compensation to the owners of these tenements he ordered 110s. 6d. rents in escheats to be paid yearly, as is set forth in his charter to the town.† 26.24 This castle was considered of such consequence, that most of the neighbouring Baronies paid considerable sums towards its support, under the articles of Castleward and Cornage: the several sums are mentioned in Bourne's history.‡ 26.25 Besides the larger payments several small ones issued from sundry houses and lands in the town.

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    Bourne says,

    In the 9th of King Edward III. an inquisition was taken at this town, whereby it was found that at the time of the battle of Bannockburn, which was in the year 1313, when John de Kenont, Knight, was High Sheriff of Northumberland, the Castle and all its edifices about it were in good repair: that after that time Nicholas Scot, Adam de Swinburn, William Riddel, Johannes de Fenwick, Cuthbert de Broughdon, Johannes de Fenwick, Johannes de Woodhorn, Johannes de Lilleburn, Willielmus de Tynedale, Roger Mauduit, and Robertus Darreius, were High Sheriffs of Northum∣berland, during which time the great tower, and also the lesser ones of the said Castle, the great hall, with the King's chamber adjoining to it, together with divers other chambers below in the Queen's mantle, and the buttery cellar and pantry: the King's chapel within the castle, a certain house beyond the gate which is called the chequer house, with the bridges within and without the gate, with three gates and one postern, were 300l. worse than before. They also say that there are in the custody of Roger Mauduit, late High Sheriff, 420 fother of lead: they say also, that it was thought highly necessary that the Baron Heron of Huddeston, the Baron of Walton, Lord Robert Clifford of the New Place, Chief Lord of the Barony of Gaugie, the Lords of the Barony of — and Devilston, that the Lord of Werk upon Tweed, the Lord of the Barony of Bol∣beck alias Bywell, the Baron of Bothal, and lastly the Baron of Delaval, should build each of them a house within the liberties of the castle for the defence of it.

    There were two great strong walls which surrounded the castle: the interior wall was of no great distance from the castle itself, as may be still seen in several places. The exterior wall surrounds the verge of the castle borders. From this outer wall were four gates, the great gate and three posterns. The north side of the castle is the main gate, called now the Black Gate; it had two port culicesses, one without the gate, as may be still seen, and another within it, at a little dis∣tance from it, the ruins of which were to be seen a few years ago. There still remains a piece of the old wall, which shews its situation to have been where that house is, which was lately purchased by Mr Jasper Harrison. The shop belonging to this house was dug (as I am informed) out of the wall just now mentioned. On the east side of the castle there was a postern, which led down to the street called the Side, which is still to be seen: it was once called (but many years

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    after it was in decay) the Waist of Laurentius Acton. On the south side of the castle is another gate, which leads down the Castle Stairs to the street called the Close: this was the south postern. There is a building upon it, which was the county Goaler's house. On the west side was the postern facing Bailiff Gate; now the dwelling-house of James Lidster.

    There is an house in the yard, which they say was the chapel of of the garrison, which is called the chapel house to this day: it stands north-east from the chapel; its common name now is the Three Bulls-heads.

    By an inquisition taken in the reign of King James I. it appears this castle was then much out of repair; and in the 18th of the same reign another having been taken, complaint was made that a great dunghill, heaped up against the wall on the west side of the castle, had done damage to the amount of 120l. it was under the same inquisition com∣plained, that the great square tower was full of chinks and crannies, and that one-third of it was almost taken away; that all the lead and coverings which it had of old, were embezzled and carried off, inso∣much, that the prisoners of the county of Northumberland were most miserably lodged, by reason of the showers of rain falling on them. The computation made for repairs was 809l. 15s. In 1644, the dung∣hill was taken away by Sir John Morley, and it is said was used to make a rampart on the town walls against the Scots: he also repaired the round tower under the Moothall, now called the Half-moon.* 26.26

    It has been (continues Bourne) a building of great strength, and no little beauty; the vast thickness of the walls speaks the one, and the ruins of some curious workmanship the other. The grand en∣trance into the castle was at the gate facing the south, which leads up a pair of stairs (which still shews the magnificence of the builder) to a very stately door of curious masonry. The room this leads into, has its floor broken down close to the castle wall, as indeed all the other floors are, to the top of the castle; so that excepting the floor above the county gaol, there is not one left, though there have been five divisions or stories of the castle, besides this. This floored room, which I was told was lately flagged by the order of William Ellison,

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    Esq when he was Mayor in 1722, seems to me, without any doubt, to have been the common hall of the castle, because on the north side of the same room, there is an entrance by a descent of some steps into a room, where is the largest fire place I saw in the castle, which plainly speaks it to have been the kitchen. At the end of this there are several stairs, which lead into a place under the kitchen, which I think goes down as low as the bottom of the castle: this I take to have been a cellar, as I do also that little dark place on the right hand coming up again, to have been a sort of pantry. The door I mentioned just now on the east of the castle, which leads to the first broken down floor, is because of its grandeur and beauty, an argument that this room has been the most stately one in the whole castle: another reason for its being so is, because of the win∣dows which gave light into it; those of them that face the east are the most beautiful of the whole castle beside. On the south of this room there is an entrance into a sort of a parlour or withdrawing room, which has a fire place in it, and has been a piece of curious workmanship, as is visible to this day; and this place has no com∣munication with any part of the castle but this room. On the north side of this room, is a door leading into an apartment where stands a well of considerable depth; it was 18 yards before we touched the surface of the water; which seems to have been placed there on pur∣pose for the more immediate service of this room. There are some little basons on the top of the well, with pipes leading from them, which conveyed water to different apartments of the castle: this is plain from what may be observed in the county gaol, at the bottom of the castle; the round stone pillar in it having an hollow in the middle, of a foot wide, with a lead spout in the side of it.

    In the inquisition made in the 9th of King Edward III. above men∣tioned, among other things that were complained of for being ne∣glected, one was, Capella Domini Regis infra castrum. This chapel, I have been told, stood on that part of the castle yard where the Moot∣hall is; but upon searching, I found it in the castle itself, according to the account of it just now mentioned. The door of it is at the bottom of the south wall of the castle, adjoining to the stairs which lead into the state chamber. It has been a work of great beauty and ornament, and is still, in the midst of dust and darkness, by far the most beautiful place in the whole building; the inside of it being cu∣riously adorned with arches and pillars. It is easy to observe the dif∣ferent

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    parts of it, the entrance, the body of it, and the chancel: on the left side of the entrance you go into a dark little room, which undoubtedly was the vestry; the full length of it was 15 yards, the breadth six yards and a half; it had three or four windows towards the east, which are now all filled up; nor is there any light but what comes in at a little cranny in the wall. Nicholas de Byker tenet terras suas, ut faciat districtiones ad Ward. novi castri super Tynam faciend. et pro deb. Domini regis inter Tynam et Coquet, &c. and then my authority goes on to say, that the manor of Byker was Sir Ralph Lawson's, Knt. deceased, after of Henry Lawson, Esq his son, and now of his eldest son, who without all question is Bailiff by in∣heritance of the said castle, and is to levy these castle wards, cornages, &c. and other rents, issues, fines, and amerciaments belonging to the said castle.

    In the 17th of King James I. 1619, a grant was made of the scite and demesnes of the castle to Alexander Stevenson, Esq who was succeeded by one Patrick Black, who died and left it in the possession of his wife. After that one James Langton claimed Patrick Black's right, but by virtue of what is not known.

    The liberties and privileges of the castle extend northwards to the river of Tweed, and southward to the river of Tees.

    In the year 1737, 10 King George II. the scite and demesnes of the castle were granted to George Liddell, Esq for 50 years, from 2 July, 1736: rent 100 chaldron of coals for Greenwich Hospital.

    The next subjects of antiquity to be attended to are the Religious Foundations. The most ancient that I can point out was a Nunnery, cotemporary with the conquest,* 26.27 to which Agas, mother of Margaret Queen of Scotland, and Christian her sister retired, after the death of Malcolm at Alnwick. Near the time of the dissolution, there were ten Nuns of the Benedictine order here, whose revenues amounted to 36l. per annum. Mr Wallis says this house was founded by King Henry I. but gives no authority for the assertion, though I presume it is Bourne's History of Newcastle.† 26.28 The scite of the nunnery is within the limits of

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    the present Newgate-street; a back gate leading to it, and an adjoining close still retain the name of Saint Bartholomew's. Among their pos∣sessions, of which we have evidence, was the village of Stella, on the southern banks of Tyne, as appears by a deed noted by Mr Wallis, wherein it is described,

    Nuper parcello possessionum domus sive mo∣nasterii S. Bartholomei infra villam Novi Castri super Tynam disso∣luti.
    Some authors alledge a religious house in Gateshead, now called Gateshead House, was a cell to St. Bartholomew's, and paid yearly thereto 2s. St. Mary's Hospital, in Westgate-street, is also said to have been dependant thereon. They surrendered the 3d January, 1540, and the revenue was estimated at 36l. 10s. as set forth by Dug∣dale, and 37l. 4s. 2d. by Speed. Agnes Lawson the Abbess was al∣lowed a pension of 6l. a year for life. The house became the resort of pedlars and vagabonds, and growing into a public nuisance, it was pulled down, and the ground levelled.

    The Franciscans or Grey Friars had a house here, founded by the Carliols (who were wealthy Merchants) in the time of King Henry III. it was situate near Pilgrim-street Gate.* 26.29 Mr Pennant says,

    part of it

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    is still remaining,
    several additional buildings having been made, it was used as the town-house of the late Sir Walter Blackett. This religious house consisted of a Warden, eight Friars, and two Novices, and surrendered the 9th of January, 30 King Henry VIII. On the disso∣lution no valuation is recorded, for the Franciscans had nothing in pro∣priety nor in common, but being Mendicants, begged all their sub∣sistence from the charity of others. It is said King Charles I. was con∣fined here, after he had entrusted himself to the hands of his Scotch subjects. The famous Duns Scotus, mentioned in a preceding part of this work, the Doctor Subtilis, was of this house. The conventual seal was impressed with the figure of St. Francis bearing a cross in his hand.

    The Preaching or Black Friars, Dominicans, had a monastery here. Mr Grose, in his celebrated work, gives the following account of this house, drawn from Bourne's History of Newcastle and other authorities.* 26.30

    This monastery was founded by Sir Peter Scott,† 26.31 who was the first Mayor of Newcastle A.D. 1251, and Sir Nicholas Scott his son, who was one of the four Bailiffs of the town A. D. 1254 and 1257, and

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    capital Bailiff 1269; but the scite of it was given by three sisters, whose names have long since been ungratefully buried in oblivion.

    When was the particular time of its building, I have met with no account; but it is not difficult to give a probable guess. The order itself, of the Dominicans or Black Friars, came into England in the year 1221; consequently it must have been founded after that time: and that it must have been founded some years before the year 1280, is plain to a demonstration; for in that year, which was the 8th of King Henry I. the Black Friars had licence from the King, to break a door through this new or town wall into their garden; which proves them a regular settled body at that time; and therefore that their priory was built some years before that licence.

    We are told that this monastery was in old time called the Grey Friars, which, in my opinion, is a thing highly improbable; for the Grey Friars or Franciscans came not into England till about the year 1224; and if, as I have proved above, the Black Friars were a set∣tled body some years before 1280, how is it possible, to have been called of old time, the Grey Friars? This is therefore a mistake: and besides, the Dominicans came into England before the Franciscans or Grey Friars, and therefore more probably were sooner in this place.

    It has been a very stately building, as appears by the present re∣mains of it. The area or grass plot is about 87 feet in length, and as many in breadth. On the east side of it was the chapel, which is now the hall of the company of Smiths in this town. On the west side of it, is a curious old well, which served the monastery with water, called our Lady's Well. On the south may still be seen, the ruins of a curious front, on which side is the hall of the Cordwainers; in which I saw a pair of winding stairs, which they told me (before they were walled up) led by a vault as far as the nunnery of St. Bar∣tholomew. On the north of it were their gardens, a part of which was the Warden's Close, before the building of that part of the town wall. This appears by the charter granted to the monastery in the reign of Edward I. about the breaking out that narrow gate in the wall between Westgate and Newgate; in which grant it is said, that the wall went through the middle of their garden. The monastery was dependant on the priory of Tynemouth.

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    In the reign of Edward II. the brethren of this monastery had li∣cence granted them for the building of a draw bridge beyond the new ditch of the castle.

    Who were the Priors of this monastery; what eminent men be∣longed to them; or what things were transacted by them from their beginning till their dissolution; were things undoubtedly preserved among themselves whilst they were a body; but after their surrender, were either destroyed, or have not yet come to light.

    One of the Priors of this monastery was one Richard Marshall. I take this gentleman to have been the last Prior of this monastery; for in the 28th of King Henry VIII. a grant of a tenement near the White Cross (signed by Friar Richard Marshall, Doctor and Prior; and Friar David Simpson, and Friar John Sourby) was given to An∣thony Godsalve, upon his paying to the said priory or monastery 9s. per annum. This grant is now in the possession of Mr Thomas Mar∣shall of Newcastle, Joiner, who purchased this tenement, and has lately rebuilt it. He pays the same rent to the town of Newcastle, which the tenement paid to the monastery. About two years after the signing of this deed, in January, the 30th of this reign, this mo∣nastery surrendered. It consisted of a Prior and 12 Friars.

    What became of the brethren of this friary, after their surrender; what they had allowed them annually for a maintenance; or whether they had any thing allowed at all does not appear. Some account in∣deed I met with afterwards of the Prior himself, but none of the Friars.
    It is this which follows.

    Richard Marshall, Prior of the Black Friars in Newcastle about the year 1551, went into Scotland and preached at St. Andrew's, that the Pater-noster should be addrest to God and not to the Saints. Some Doctors of the university being disgusted at this assertion, pre∣vailed with one Tofts, a Grey Friar, to undertake to prove that the Pater-noster might be said to the Saints; whose ignorance in doing the same was so manifest, that he became the common jest, and quitted the town.

    After the surrender of this monastery, the Black Friars was granted to the town of Newcastle, in consideration of 53l. 7s. 6d. The annual value of it was 2l. 19s. 6d.

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    The King says in his grant, that he gives to the Mayor and Bur∣gesses of Newcastle, the whole house and scite lately a priory, or house of brethren, called vulgarly the Black Friars, in Newcastle upon Tyne; the chapel-houses, edifices, gardens, &c. the hall, two chambers, a chamber called the Cross Chamber; and two gardens with their ap∣purtenances; and the whole close within the Westgate, and another close near the scite of the said priory, on the north; and a close con∣taining three acres, and a house in the same close, without the walls of the said town; and a house called the Gatehouse situated near the said street. It also appears from the first grant, that the King re∣served to himself and successors the bells and lead that was upon the church belonging to this friary, and the other buildings of it; the lead in the gutters, together with the stones and iron of the church, &c.

    The Nine Crafts of this town had their meeting-houses or halls in it, and still have except two of them, the Taylors and the Cordwainers, who have bestowed these upon some poor widows, and got themselves others in their places. These halls are of great service to this ancient building, in preserving it from intire ruin. Such is the hall of the Smiths, which was repaired by them in the year 1709: the hall of the Dyers; the hall of the Bakers and Brewers, which was repaired by them in the year 1711: these halls are on the east side of the friary. Such also are those on the west side of it, viz. the hall of the Sadlers, which was repaired by them in the year 1729, and the hall of the Skinners and Glovers, which was repaired by them in the year 1721. Such are those also on the south side of it, viz. the Cordwainers hall, which was turned into apartments for three widows in the year 1729: the hall of the Butchers and the hall of the Tanners were repaired in the year 1717.

    By the means of these halls, there is still some visage of the friary remaining, which had otherwise been intirely in dust. 'Tis a pity that those people, who are permitted by the companies to reside in some of those rooms, are not threatened into more cleanliness;* 26.32 and that the companies themselves are not at the expence of repairing the area. Were these things done, it would be a beautiful piece of an∣tiquity,

    Page 387

    and the entertainment of the curious, from whence soever they come.

    Browne Willis, in his History of Abbies, says, Roland Harding was the last Prior of the Newcastle Dominicans; and that he with 12 Monks surrendered their convent 10th January, 1539, 30th Henry VIII. This was the only Dominican monastery in Newcastle.

    The monastery of St. Augustine was founded by William Lord Ross, Baron of Werk:* 26.33 it was situate in the Manor Chair, was a handsome edifice, with cloisters and a noble chapel:† 26.34 the Kings of England in their Scotch expeditions frequently took up their residence there. It surrendered 9th January, 30 King Henry VIII. and was used for some time by government as a magazine for warlike stores: from whence it acquired the name of the Artillery Ground. King James I. gave it to a Scotch attendant, who for the sake of the lead and materials dis∣mantled it. Out of the ruins have arose a workhouse for the poor, a house of correction, a charity-school for the parish of All-saints, and a house for the master. The Surgeons hall and two hospitals stand within the limits of this monastery.

    A monastery of Carmelites or White Friars was‡ 26.35 founded by King Edward I. in honour of the blessed Virgin. On their surrender, 30 King

    Page 388

    Henry VIII. they consisted of a Prior, seven Brethren, and two Novi∣ciates, and their revenue was valued at 9l. 11s. 4d. It was situate near the Foot of Westgate, not far distant from White Friar Tower before described.

    In the close of this house was a fraternity, styled the Brethren of the Pennance of Jesus Christ, or the Brethren of the Sack; to whom King Henry III. gave the place called Calgarth, at the instance of Robert Bruce.* 26.36

    The Carmelites had another monastery in this town, situate in the Walk Knowle, of which Laurentius de Acton was the founder, accord∣ing to Leland.† 26.37 Dugdale says it was founded by Roger de Thornton, but that is confuted by Bourne.‡ 26.38 It was dedicated to St. Michael, and being on a lofty situation,§ 26.39 had the name of St. Michael's Mount. After

    Page 389

    the dissolution, King Henry VIII. gave it with its rights and revenues to Sir John Gresham, then an Alderman of the city of London, and Richard Billingford.

    By Tanner's Notitia it appears, that King David I. of Scotland, who was possessed of Newcastle as Earl of Northumberland, founded here two monasteries and a nunnery: but whether any of the before mentioned own their rise to him, no evidence remains. He died A. D. 1153.

    Patents were made out for founding two other religious houses; one 37 King Edward III. in honour of the nativity and resurrection of our Lord, which was repealed; and another, 5 King Henry IV. in honour of St. John Baptist and St. John Evangelist, which latter was also re∣pealed or otherwise proved abortive.* 26.40

    Besides these religious foundations, there were several on a more meritorious plan—hospitals for the benevolent purpose of relieving the miseries of human life. When that dreadful distemper the leprosy raged here, the great and opulent, from true principles of religion and piety, erected those places of consolation and relief for miserable mor∣tals, who were expelled from society on account of this horrible visita∣tion. King Henry I. founded an hospital here for the reception of lepers, called the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen, situated near Barras Bridge, without Pilgrim-street Gate, and therein fixed a Master, Bre∣thren, and Sisters. After that malady abated, or was subdued, it was appropriated for the reception of poor persons, when the town was vi∣sited with a pestilence—a dreadful scourge, which the Almighty has now withheld from this land for a considerable time. On such occa∣sions, 14 within the house were allowed each a room, 8s. per month, and coals: 15 without the house had different allowances, according to the state of their wants; some 8s. per month, some 5s. others 2s. 6d. In the reign of King Edward III. Laurentius Acton had the first fruits, amounting annually to 200 marks; one John Bland was then Master, and was a considerable patron to this foundation, having built the con∣sistory, and ornamented the chapel. He died A. D. 1374, and was in∣terred in his own chapel, near the high altar, after having presided over the hospital five years. It was a donative in the patronage of the Corporation, and stood without Pilgrim-street Gate, near the Barras

    Page 390

    Bridge. Adjoining to it was a chapel dedicated to St. James, supposed to have been a chapel of ease to the parish of St. Andrew's.* 26.41

    The hospital of St. Mary, commonly styled St. Mary the Virgin, was situated in Westgate-street, had several patrons, but it is not certain who was the original founder. There is some confusion in our autho∣rities touching this hospital, as will appear by the notes. Walter de Bolbeck was a benefactor to the first foundation, which Bourne thinks took date in the reign of King Henry I. One Aselack, of Killinghow, was the second founder, in the time of King Richard I. as appears by his charter:

    Ego Aselack, &c. fundavi hospitale Sanctae Mariae Vir∣ginis, &c. & ibi posui duos fratres regulares & unum capellanum ad ferv. &c.
    Eustacius, Parson of Benton, one of the witnesses, was incumbent about 1190. The third foundation was by the Corporation, or as Bourne says, by the inhabitants of Newcastle, for a Master and Chaplain to say divine service for six Bedes folks in the alms-house, &c. its revenue was 33l. 15s. per annum. It was besides instituted as an asylum for the helpless stranger and indigent traveller, a receptacle to the sick and needy, and to give sepulture to such as died there. It had an annual allowance of nine chaldron of coals. King Edward III. gave thereto 100s. as a compensation for the damage it sustained in the Scotch incursions.† 26.42 8th of January, 1335, Richard de Bury, Bishop

    Page 390

    〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉 〈1 page missing〉〈1 page missing〉

    Page 392

    The hospital of the Holy Trinity was founded by William de Acton, 37 King Edward III. A. D. 1363; according to Randal 1360, and was confirmed by Bishop Thomas Hatfield 2 Oct. 1361: it stood on the Walk Knowl. Some authors assert, that Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham, presented the first Master; but Randal, whose accuracy was singular, says, Will de Wackefeld pater ord. Scae Trin. was appointed* 26.43

    Page 393

    Custos by the founder. It surrendered 10th of January, 30th King Henry VIII.* 26.44

    St. Catherine's or Thornton's Hospital, on the south side of Sandhill, called by some authors Maison Dieu, was founded in the reign of King Henry IV. by Roger Thornton the elder. Here was a Chaplain, nine poor men, and four women. The Corporation, 34 King Henry VI. by leave of the founder, had the use of the hall and kitchen, for the wed∣ding entertainments of young people, there to receive the offerings and gifts of their friends.† 26.45

    Brigham's and Ward's Almshouses may also claim a place here: but to introduce the particular donations and constitutions of these, would in no wise entertain the reader, and would increase this work too much. Brigham's Almshouse stood near the monastery of Franciscans, and Ward's in the Manor Chair.

    In Randal's Manuscripts, I find the name of St. Laurence's, without any particulars relative to it. Bourne says, as to St. Laurence's,

    it is said to have been built by one of the Earls of Northumberland. It was dependent upon the priory of St. John of Jerusalem, and was granted to the town in the 3d year of Edward VI.
    In 1558, its re∣venues amounted to 11l. 8s. 8d.

    Page 394

    The ancient palaces were,

    Pampedon Hall, a royal mansion, in the time of the Saxon heptarchy.

    Lumley Place, in the Side, an ancient appendage to the castle; the temporary residence and palace of the Kings of England, on their nor∣thern expeditions: it became afterwards the house of the Lords Lumley, of Lumley Castle, from whom it had its more modern name.

    The Earl's Place, belonging to the Earls of Northumberland, in Newgate-street: it is sometimes called the Scotch Inn, being the tem∣porary residence of the Kings and Nobles of Scotland, when in New∣castle on a truce.

    Northumberland House, in the Close; the residence of the Earls of Northumberland.

    Westmoreland Place, in Westgate-street; the palace of the Nevils, Earls of Westmoreland.

    To these we may add the Pilgrims House, in Pilgrim-street; the place of resort, stay, and refreshment of devotees, in their way to the holy shrine at Jesmont.

    This large and populous town consists of four parishes; St. Nicholas, All-saints, St. Andrew's, and St. John's.

    St. Nicholas's is a vicarage, having three dependent chapels, viz. Gosforth, St. Thomas's, and Cramlington. The Bishop of Carlisle is impropriator and patron: it was given to the Church and Canons of St. Mary's, Carlisle, by King Henry I. in or about the year 1120. Richarnus de Aurea Valle was Parson of this and Newburn church, and also a third not named in that reign.* 26.46

    The several churches of All-saints, St. Andrew's, and St. John's, are dependent upon this vicarage, though they are distinct parishes; and the Vicar receives dues from them all.

    Page 395

    The church of St. Nicholas,* 26.47 by most authors, is said to have its foundation in the year 1091, though some attribute it to David I. King of Scotland. In the grant to St. Mary's in Carlisle, the stipend of the Minister is not stipulated, the expression being

    a suitable maintenance to be given to the Minister.
    This was afterwards fixed in the reign of King Stephen, 24th January, 1194, by Hugh Pudsey, Bishop of Durham, with the approbation of the Prior and Convent of Carlisle, when all the fruits, fees, annual profits, oblations, and obventions were assigned thereto (the great tithes excepted).† 26.48 The church is a stately building, placed on a fine elevated situation, near the centre of the town; 240 feet in length, 75 feet in breadth, and of a proportionable height. The tower or steeple is 194 feet in height, highly ornamented; four images of no mean sculpture decorate the lower part of the tower: the top of the tower is very elegant, it is ornamented with fine pin∣nacles of tabernacle-work, from the corner spring intersecting bows or arches, supporting in the middle a light and open lanthorn, graced

    Page 396

    with pinnacles of extraordinary beauty: the whole has the most uncom∣mon and pleasing appearance, not unlike a magnificent imperial crown. It is justly allowed by all travellers to be the finest piece of masonry of the kind in Europe. This tower, most authors agree, was built in the time of King Henry VI. by one Robert Rhodes. On the bottom of the bellfry is this inscription: Orate pro anima Roberti Rhodes;* 26.49 from thence it is conjectured by several that this was the name of the founder.† 26.50 The church is well illuminated; the east or altar window was anciently adorned with paintings on the glass, representing the twelve Apostles, and the seven ‡ 26.51 acts of charitable munificence of Roger Thornton, who built the window; in which was the following inscription: Orate pro anima Rogeri de Thornton, et pro animabus filiorum & filiarum.§ 26.52

    The church has eight musical bells, and a good double organ. On the north side of the organ is St. George's Porch: According to Bourne, it was ornamented with carvings and painted windows: the portraiture of St. Lawrence remains in the east window. It is supposed to be an ancient chantry, founded by one of the English Monarchs.

    There were nine chantries to this church, dedicated (1) to St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, two to St. Catharine, (4) St. Peter and St. Paul, (5) St. Thomas, (6) the Virgin Mary, (7) St. Mar∣garet, (8) St. Cuthbert, (9) St. Lyra.‖ 26.53

    Page 397

    Above the vestry is a library, to which Dr. Tomlinson, a late Vicar, at his death, made a great addition, by a donation of his valuable books: but of what utility (comparatively speaking) was this library, until the late munificent Sir Walter Blackett (over whose name every worthy burgess will for one age at least drop a tear, whilst his expe∣rienced benevolence gives the estimate of his loss; and on whose im∣mortal character future ages will contemplate with veneration and Joy) the great modern patron of Newcastle, gave an annual stipend of 25l. for ever for a Librarian.

    Besides the benefice, the Vicar receives an annual gift of 90l. from the Corporation, by way of augmentation. The first Curate's stipend is 4l. from the Vicar, 6l. 16s. 8d. from the Crown, and 40l. gift from the Corporation. The Lecturer has 120l. a year from the Cor∣poration.

    At the north door of the church there is a large flag for the first step, sculptured in waves, as in commemoration of the dedicatory Saint's peculiar protection to seafaring men.

    The Vicarage-house stands in Westgate-street.

    Page 398

    Many very elegant monuments are placed within the ailes, but their description cannot be set out in this work.

    The chapel of St. Thomas stands at the end of the Bridge: the founder not known, or the time of its being erected.

    There were two chantries founded in it, dedicated to St. Ann and St. Mary the Virgin.* 26.54 It was made a Chapel of Ease to St. Nicholas 10th September, A. D. 1732, and was repaired by the Corporation, who gave a handsome stipend to a morning and afternoon Lecturer.

    All-saints church is at the foot of Pilgrim-street: it was built before the year 1286. This is said to be one of the largest cures in the king∣dom.† 26.55 Seven chantries were founded in this church, and dedicated (1) to St. Thomas, (2) St. Mary the Virgin, (3) St John the Evangelist, (4) St. Peter, (5) St. John Baptist, (6) St. Catharine, (7) St. Lyra.‡ 26.56

    Page 399

    The Minister of this church is paid 4l. per annum by the Vicar, and 5l. per annum by the Crown; the remaining income arises from fees. There are two Lecturers appointed by the Corporation, with each a salary of 100l. per annum.

    This church hath a dependent chapel, St. Ann's, Sandgate: after the reformation it was neglected and fell to decay, but was repaired in 1682. It hath lately been rebuilt by the Corporation on a beautiful plan: they appoint two Lecturers thereto, the one with a salary of 50l. the other 40l. per annum.

    Another chapel anciently stood in these suburbs, dedicated to St. Lawrence, said to be founded by one of the Earls of Northumberland: it was dependent upon the priory of St. John of Jerusalem. King Edward VI. granted it to the Corporation, in consideration of 144l. 13s. 4d. The bottle-houses now fill the ground where this chapel stood.

    St. Andrew's church stands near Newgate. From the style of the architecture, and it being erected on the scite of the old Monk Chesters, it claims a title to greater antiquity than the other churches. It is sup∣posed to have been built by King David of Scotland.

    Three chantries were founded in this church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the Holy Trinity, and St. Thomas.* 26.57

    The Minister's stipend from the Vicar is 3l. from the Crown 5l. 2s. 6d. and from the Corporation as Lecturer 100l. per annum.

    Page 400

    St. John's church, in Westgate, built before the year 1287. Robert Percival, a Pinmaker, gave it many ornaments, and a house of 20l. yearly value. It has six musical bells and a good organ.* 26.58

    Three chantries were founded in this church, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, St. Mary the Virgin, and the Holy Trinity.† 26.59

    The income of the Minister consists of 3l. from the Vicar, 5l. from the Crown, and from the Corporation as Lecturer 90l. per annum.

    There are also many meeting-houses of Dissenters here.

    Besides the grammar school before mentioned, there are four paro∣chial charity schools.

    The grammar school was founded by Thomas Horsley, Mayor of Newcastle, A. D. 1525: he endowed it with lands of a considerable yearly value. Queen Elizabeth confirmed this foundation, or rather refounded it by charter. The great tithes of the parish of Bolham ap∣pertain

    Page 401

    to it, and the Mastership of St. Mary's Hospital is generally annexed. The Master of the school hath a convenient dwelling-house belonging to it.

    The charity school of the parish of St. Nicholas was opened in 1709, for the teaching and cloathing of 40 boys and 20 girls, of this parish and the chapelry of St John's. The boys are placed out to business, and have on such their going out a gift of certain religious books and 40s. in money. The girls are placed out to service, and have a like gift of books and 20s. in money. The Schoolmaster's salary is 25l. and 20s. for coals yearly. The Mistress has 10l. and 10s. for coals.

    This school was originally founded by Mrs Eleanor Allan, a widow of Newcastle, and endowed with lands of 60l. a year value. Mrs Crishold, the widow of the Rev. Mr Crishold of Wooler, added a donation of 500l. By a parochial subscription the children are cloathed on the 1st day of May yearly.

    The charity school belonging to the parish of All-saints is supported by subscription, which was begun A. D. 1709. It receives 41 boys and 17 girls, and is conducted as the school of St. Nicholas.

    The charity school of the parish of St. Andrew was founded by Sir William Blackett, Baronet, for 30 boys, and was opened A. D. 1707: the Schoolmaster's salary 20l. a year.

    The charity school of the parish of St. John was founded in the year 1705, by John Ord, Esq for 44 boys. He endowed it with lands near Pilgrim-street Gate. Mrs Margaret Allgood gave thereto 100l. The boys are cloathed annually on Midsummer-day, by subscription. The Schoolmaster's salary is 24l. a year, and 40s. for teaching them to sing; with an additional allowance of 16s. a year for pens, ink, and paper.

    Besides the principal edifices before mentioned, there are several pub∣lic buildings here.

    The Town House and Exchange, on the Sandhill, originally founded by Roger de Thornton. In the year 1658, this public edifice was re∣built by the Corporation on the present plan;* 26.60 the front towards the

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    river being ornamented with two series of columns. The expence a∣mounted to 11,200l. 10,000l. of which was advanced by the Corpora∣tion, and 1200l. a donation from Alderman Weimouth, compleated the work. The area in front was ornamented with an equestrian statue, in copper, of King James II. the horse in a vaulting attitude, supported by a pedestal of white marble. This statue was by an outrageous mob pulled down A.D. 1688, and appropriated to furnish bells for the church of All-hallows or All-saints. The statue was said to be of ex∣cellent workmanship, and cost 1700l. An elegant plate was published of it in 1742.

    The Trinity House at the Head of the Broad Chair: In it are apart∣ments for 14 persons, to whom 8s. per month with coals and cloath∣ing are given: it also contains a spacious hall and a neat chapel. Dal∣ton's Place stood upon this ground. It is not known when or by whom the monastery of the Trinity was founded. The original insti∣tution of the order of the Holy Trinity was in 1198, in the time of Pope Innocent III. and was for the redemption of captives from slavery. The Trinity House we are now speaking of appertains to the fraternity of Mariners, who have received three several royal charters; one in the 3d year of King James I. the second by King Charles II. 1664, and the third by King James II. 1687.* 26.61

    The Mansion House, in the Close; the temporary place of residence of the Mayor. It is an elegant modern building, with a spacious area on the banks of Tyne.

    The Freemen's Hospital, in the Manors, founded by the Corporation in 1681, for a Master and 39 poor Freemen, or their widows. The

    Page 403

    Master's annual allowance 6l. each of the Brethren 4l. The building is handsome, three stories in height, ornamented with a piazza 60 yards in length: an open area with a fountain in front.

    Davison's Hospital, for six widows of Clergymen or Merchants. The building was erected at the expence of the Corporation, and the endow∣ment was made by Mrs Ann Davison, the relict of a Merchant of this town. The allowance to each is 40s. quarterly.

    The Barber Surgeons Hall.

    The Maidens Hospital, built by the Corporation in 1753, and en∣dowed by a donation of 1200l. from Thomas Davison, Esq of Ferry-hill, in the county of Durham, and his sisters; and the like sum of 1200l. from the munificent Sir Walter Blackett—for the reception of six maiden women and six poor men.

    The Keelmen's Hospital, a square building with cloisters, near Sand∣gate, built in 1701, by a contribution of 1d. each tide from every Keel∣man plying upon the Tyne, within the liberties of Newcastle. It con∣tains upwards of 50 chambers, but is said to be neglected, and without endowment. It is wonderful this laborious and useful race of men, whose toils help to contribute such immense wealth to Newcastle, should not have claimed the attention of the Corporation, from whose revenue more donations issue in charitable and religious appropriations, than any other Corporation in the North of England can boast.

    The Infirmary stands in an airy elevated situation behind Westgate, and near the public walk called the Forth: It was founded by subscrip∣tion, for the relief of the sick and lame of Newcastle and the counties of Durham and Northumberland. To this excellent foundation Sir Walter Blackett gave 1000l. out of the interest money arising from which donation, he appointed 10l. a year should be given to a Clergy∣man to do duty there. So happy a relief has this charitable institution proved, that from the time of its commencement to April 1778, 17,331 patients have been discharged cured.

    To these may be added the Hospital for Lunatics, and the Hospital for Married Women lying-in: as also the fund raised for the support of those who lie-in at their own houses.

    Page 404

    An elegant Hall has lately been erected in High Friar Chair, by the society of Free and Accepted Masons of the Lodge of St. John: it is richly ornamented, and has an excellent organ for their solemn rites. It was dedicated in the year 1777; to attend which ceremony, there was the most respectable and numerous convention of that order that ever ap∣peared in the northern parts of this kingdom. The music was per∣formed by an excellent band, the vocal parts of which were done by the best voices from the quire of Durham cathedral. A pathetic exhor∣tation was delivered by Mr Huntley, and an elegant oration, display∣ing the antiquity, progress, and excellence of the order, by the Rev. Dr Scott of Simonburn. The festival was held in the new assembly room, when at three tables near 400 of the brethren dined together; at which time that regularity, order and harmony were maintained, for which this society, above all others in the world, is remarkable: where men of all ranks, political opinions, and religious persuasions meet, without envy or contention; and preserve a unanimity and bro∣therly love, in despite of the frailties and fickleness of the human heart.

    The history of this place is very dark, antecedent to the time of Ro∣bert Carthouse, and the building of the castle, from whence it is pre∣sumed the name of Newcastle was derived. The advantages of a fine navigable river, with a situation defended by so strong a fortress, would soon induce Merchants and others to fix there; yet we find no record of any royal charter, liberty, or franchise granted to the settlers, till the reign of King Henry II. when they obtained a royal charter, which is said to have comprehended great privileges;* 26.62 but of what nature these were, our author is silent. King John, in the 3d year of his reign, confirmed the above charter, on payment of 100 marks and two palfreys.† 26.63 In the 14th year of his reign he greatly enlarged those li∣berties and powers, and expressly

    in consideration of the loyalty and faithful services of his burgesses there,
    he granted them several ex∣clusive privileges; among which are, an exemption from the power of the Sheriff of the county at large, and that they should be amenable to the Courts only within their own jurisdiction, except in matters rela∣tive to the rights of the Crown. The government of the borough was then under four Bailiffs only.

    Page 405

    King Henry III. by charter, appointed a Mayor to preside in the government of this borough, together with four Bailiffs. From this Prince the Burgesses derived two most excellent bounties, viz. the Castle Demesnes, containing 850 acres, for free pasturage, with liberty of win∣ning coal and stone; as also a plot of ground called the Forth, contain∣ing about 11 acres. Here the Infirmary stands: a portion of the ground is inclosed, and converted into a public walk. One thing very singular in this royal charter, is the prohibition against Jews residing within the borough.

    This was one of the boroughs that received the first summons to send Representatives to sit in a House of Commons, in the 10th year of the reign of King Edward I. A. D. 1282.* 26.64

    Page 406

    Pampedon was by royal grant annexed to Newcastle in this reign.

    Upon an inquisition taken, 4 King Edward I. touching the ancient customs which prevailed within the borough, it was returned, that by

    Page 407

    the custom established within the borough, the real estates of freemen within the borough had always been considered in the nature of chattels, and as such were disposed by will: which special custom was accordingly confirmed.

    Page 408

    King Edward III. confirmed all its franchises and privileges, and added thereto an exemption from the jurisdiction of the Constablery, Marshalsea, and Admiralty of England, within the port and limits of the borough. He gave the Town Moor to the Burgesses in perpetuity;

    Page 409

    he also gave licence to the Burgesses to purchase lands; he confirmed many by-laws made by them for well-governing the borough; directed the mode of electing Mayors, Magistrates, and Officers; he settled the measure to be used in the sale of coals, and made the Burgesses toll-free for their merchandize throughout his dominions.

    Page 410

    King Richard II. in the first year of his reign, A. D. 1378, con∣firmed the charters before granted to the Burgesses; he afterwards granted them ground for roads and a bridge.* 26.72 In 1390, he gave li∣cence for a sword of state to be borne before the Mayor.

    It was not till the reign of King Henry IV. that Newcastle received the most distinguishing marks of royal favour: on the accession of this Prince, the borough received a confirmation of all ancient liberties and immunities; besides which he also granted, that this borough should for ever thereafter be independent of the county of Northumberland; that it should have a Sheriff, as being a county of itself, a district not above 10 miles in circuit; which Sheriff should supply the duty of the Bailiffs, whose office was from thenceforth revoked and annulled; that the Sheriff should hold his county within the liberties of the borough, on Wednesday from month to month, that he should have the return of writs, and account unto his Majesty's Exchequer;† 26.73 that six Alder∣men

    Page 411

    should be elected out of the Burgesses, as associates in the civil Magistracy with the Mayor, with power to act as Justices of the Peace within the precincts of the borough; that the Burgesses should hold the Conservatorship of the river Tyne, from Sparrow Hawk to Hedwin Streams, with the royalties thereof, a space of 14 miles; within which limits no ship should load or unload any sort of goods but at the quays of Newcastle. The present quays are esteemed equal to any in England, being upwards 700 yards in length. King Edward II. granted the Conservatorship of the river Tyne to John Earl of Hampstead; but the same was soon revoked, on its being represented an infringement on the rights of Newcastle.

    Page 412

    King Edward VI. on the dissolution of the Bishopric of Durham by act of parliament, A. D. 1552, granted to Newcastle the town and li∣berties of Gateshead: he also proposed to have erected a Bishopric at Newcastle, out of part of the revenues of the dissolved See;* 26.74 but these purposes were defeated by the death of the King; and on the accession of Queen Mary, 1554, the Bishopric of Durham was restored.† 26.75

    Queen Elizabeth confirmed to the Burgesses all the liberties and im∣munities granted by her predecessors, and added thereto many privileges by her charter dated, as Mr Wallis says, on the 22d March, in the 42d year of her reign; but as it appears by a note to Bourne's History, in the 31st year of that reign. It was then declared to be a free town, with power to the corporate body to purchase lands to them and their successors in fee and perpetuity, and to grant and demise the same; and that they should have a common seal: that they should exercise an Admiralty Jurisdiction within their own liberties, exclusive of any au∣thority of the Lord High Admiral.

    The Corporation is now governed by a Mayor, Sheriff, and 12 Al∣dermen; the Borough sends two Members to Parliament, elected by the Free Burgesses, who are about 2400 in number.

    Page 413

    The Mayor holds a Court of Record, wherein all actions of debt upon the case, trespass, &c. are tried, which arise within, the juris∣diction:* 26.76 no Attornies are allowed to practice but those who are Free Burgesses, and duly sworn there at their admission. Six Serjeants at Mace appertain to this Court.

    It is superior to the Sheriff's Court, from whence causes are remove∣able.

    The Sheriff holds a court of his county monthly.

    A Court of Conscience is also established here, by virtue of an act of parliament—an excellent relief in so populous a place, where the diffi∣culty of proving sale and delivery of small articles, by witnesses, would often deprive the honest trader and mechanic of his just dues. It is an equitable enlargement of the privilege of inferior courts, worthy the attention of the Legislature, and would be greatly beneficial to the community, if it was admitted at the Sheriffs Courts and in Courts Baron, touching debts of an inferior value.

    The Court of Common Council is a court held by force of the char∣ters, by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Commoners, wherein regulations and by-laws are made, for the protection of trade and the government of the incorporate body.

    In the Wardmote Court, Officers, &c. of each ward are chosen.

    Page 414

    The Mayor holds a Court of Pyepowder at the times of fairs: On the 1st of August, a fair granted by King John, and on St. Luke's day, a fair granted by King Henry VII.* 26.77

    The Mayor holds three Guilds of Trade annually, at which are trans∣acted all business between masters and apprentices; the inrolling of ap∣prentices, and giving those who have served their time, or otherwise are by patrimony intitled, their freedom.† 26.78

    Page 415

    Two ancient punishments, inflicted on the disturbers of the peace here, are worthy notice.

    A common Drunkard was led through the streets as a spectacle of contempt, covered with a large barrel, called a Newcastle cloak▪ one end being out, and the other having a hole made through it, sufficient for the offender to pass his head through; by which means the vessel was rested on his shoulders.

    The Scold wore an iron engine, called the branks, in the form of a crown; it covered the head, but left the face exposed; and having a tongue of iron which went into the mouth, constrained silence from the most violent brawler.

    The trade of this place is very great: to enter upon an exact de∣tail, would exceed the limits of my work: the exports chiefly consist of coals, wrought iron, lead, glass, salt, bacon, corn, salmon, butter, tallow, and grindstones: its situation is such, as necessarily renders it the place of supply for an extensive country, in articles of imported merchandize. In the summary I have given of the trade of the county in the succeeding pages, the importance of this place will appear. In Mr Pennant's work it is stated, that in the year 1771, the shipping mentioned in the following table were entered here with imports.

      810 ships, carrying 77,880 tons, from foreign parts.
      140 ships, carrying 18,650 tons, coasting trade.
    Total 950 96,530 tons.  

    Page 416

    Here are 16 glass-houses, three sugar-houses, several soap-boileries, a considerable manufactory of steel and iron, also a manufactory of broad and narrow woollen cloaths carried on with great success. Sel∣dom less than 30,000 firkins of butter, and 40,000 hundreds of tallow, are annually exported from hence.

    The chief article of export is coal:* 26.79 ships of great burthen take in their lading at Shields, the coals being carried thither in large un∣wieldy lighters, called keels, limited by government to the burthen of 20 chaldrons, being nearly circular in form, and very flat bottomed; sometimes navigated by a square sail, at other times managed with the advantage of the tide, by one oar plied at the side and another at the stern, which serves as a sculler and rudder. Near 500 of these

    Page 417

    vessels find constant employ on this river. No vessels exceeding 400 tons come up to the Quay.

    The collieries which supply this exportation, about 24 in number, lie at considerable distances from the river. From the mines, the coals are sent to the places of lading in large unwieldy carriages or waggons, of the form of a common mill-hopper, carried on four wheels of iron, the fellies or rims of which are hollow, so as to run upon strings of wood adapted thereto, with which the roads are laid. By this means, these carriages on an easy descent run without horses, and sometimes with that rapidity, that a piece of wood, called a tiller, is obliged to be applied to one wheel, and pressed thereon by the weight of the at∣tendant who sits on it, to retard the motion: by the friction of which frequently the tiller and sometimes the carriage is set on fire.

    In the course of the year 1775, 697, 608 chaldrons of coals were im∣ported in the port of London from Newcastle, and Sunderland on the the river Wear, in the county of Durham; which is 37,237 chaldrons more than the year 1773, and 77,237 chaldrons more than in the year 1774. In the year 1776, 600,000 chaldrons were imported at London.* 26.80

    In 1775, 4773 ships were cleared at the Custom-house of Newcastle; of which 4343 were coastways, and 430 for foreign parts; being upon the whole 270 less than in the year 1774.† 26.81 The customs for coal ex∣ported on an average amount to 40,000l. or thereabouts annually, ex∣clusive

    Page 418

    of 1s. a chaldron paid to the Duke of Richmond for coals sent coastways, which brings in a yearly income of 15,000l. or more.

    The revenue of the Corporation, which they possess in their own right, is said to exceed 8000l. a year. The allowance to the Mayor during his year is very ample,* 26.82 a mansion-house furnished and servants, a state coach, with the expences of entertaining the Judges of Assize on the circuit. The Sheriff has also an allowance for his public enter∣tainments. The receipts of the Corporation in the year 1774, were 20,360l. 9s. 8d. and their disbursements 19,445l.† 26.83 The inhabitants of Newcastle and Gateshead are computed to exceed 30,000.

    We find here a remarkable provincial dialect and a guttural pro∣nunciation, in which words containing the letter R are articulated with difficulty. This seems to be derived from the Danes. In a degree, the same guttural pronunciation takes place through all Northumberland.

    Newcastle was the seat of many remarkable occurrences and events. On the incursion made by David I. King of Scotland, A. D. 1135. in the reign of King Stephen, he took Newcastle, and obliged the inhabi∣tants to swear allegiance to the Empress Maude as their Queen. David having made this place his head quarters, remained there till a truce was entered into with King Stephen, who lay with his army at Dur∣ham.

    On the restitution of Newcastle to the Crown of England, King Henry II. confirmed to the burgesses and inhabitants their estates, and granted them an exemption from tolls and duties.

    Page 419

    King John and William the Lion King of Scotland, about the year 1209, met at Newcastle, and held a conference. The Scotch King lay ill here for a considerable time.

    In 1235 or 1236, the King of England and Alexander King of Scot∣land had a conference at Newcastle, on the demand made by the Scotch King for restitution of Northumberland, Westmoreland, and Cumber∣land. The Queen of Scotland also was present.—Chron. Mailross.

    In the year 1244, King Henry III. assembled a great army and marched to Newcastle, whilst the King of Scotland marched to Ponte∣land. There were 5000 horse among the English troops finely armed. In the Scotch army were 1000 horse with armour of iron or network, to which were added 100,000 foot; but no engagement ensued, as Alex∣ander, who before had denied King Henry's supremacy, now submitted to acknowledge Henry as his liege Lord, and agreed to bind himself not to enter into any league with any of the enemies of the King of England.

    In the year 1251, Newcastle had its first Mayor, Petrus Scott, Knt.

    In 1276, on the eve of St. Nicholas, great earthquakes were felt here, accompanied with dreadful lightnings and thunders, the appear∣ance of a fiery dragon in the heavens, and a blazing star.

    In the year 1292, after the Regency of Scotland was dissolved, Baliol swore fealty to King Edward I. in the castle of Norham, in the pre∣sence of many of the Nobility of both nations. The next day the royal commission was issued, directing John St. John to place Baliol in the royal chair at Scone, according to the ancient mode of inauguration of the Kings of Scotland: in which duty St. John represented Duncan Earl of Fife, then a minor, whose hereditary office it was gained by his ancestors for their distinguished services. This ceremony was soon after performed on St. Andrew's day; after which Baliol passing into England, did homage to King Edward on Christmas day at Newcastle, in the hall of the castle.

    In the year 1296, an open rupture taking place between the two kingdoms, the Scots professing to throw off the English yoke, King Edward appointed the 1st day of March for his rendezvous at New∣castle,

    Page 420

    and was there on that day, accompanied by his Nobles and an army of 30,000 foot and 4000 heavy armed horsemen, besides the small army belonging to the Bishop of Durham, consisting of 1000 foot and 500 horse.

    In the year 1298, the English army was ordered to muster at New∣castle, to proceed against the Scotch, when there assembled 2000 heavy armed horsemen, 1200 light horse, and above 100,000 foot.

    In the beginning of May 1312, King Edward II. being at Newcastle with his favourite Gaveston; Lancaster, the Lords H. Percy and Robert Clifford, in association with many other Nobles, accompanied by nu∣merous attendants, came by surprize upon them, intending to take the devoted Minion even from the embraces of the Sovereign; but they made their escape to Tynemouth, and from thence by sea to Scar∣brough, where Gaveston being left by the King as in a place of the utmost security, he was besieged by Lord Pembroke and others, and obliged to surrender upon stipulated terms: but Lancaster, Hereford, and Arundel, the heads of the junto, not approving of the submission Lord Pembroke had accepted, they seized Gaveston, and put him to death as a traitor.* 26.84

    The whole militia of England, by advice of a parliament held at Lincoln, were ordered to rendezvous at Newcastle, 8 King Edward II. 1315, in order to proceed on a Scotch expedition: every village in the kingdom sent one stout man with armour and travelling money, as also wages at 4d. per day, during the service.

    Bourne, in a note to the year 1317, says,

    there was a grievous fa∣mine and mortality, insomuch that the quick could hardly bury the dead; and a great corruption of cattle and grass. Some eat the flesh of their own children; and thieves in prison devoured those that were newly brought in, and greedily eat them half alive.

    In the year 1319, King Edward having sustained the most disgraceful defeats and disappointments in Scotland, a congress of Commissioners

    Page 421

    was agreed to be held at Newcastle on the 6th of December, when a truce for two years was concluded.* 26.85

    A congress was held here at Candlemas 1320, in order to establish the terms of reconciliation between the nations. Besides the conserva∣tors of the truce for England and Scotland, there were present, as aids and mediators, two Envoys from Philip King of France, and two Nuncios from the Holy See: but each party insisting on rigorous articles, the congress broke up without effecting any thing.

    In October 1322, King Edward II. was at Newcastle, where he ren∣dezvoused a great army, and therewith marched from thence to relieve Norham Castle, that was then besieged by the forces of King Robert Bruce: but the country being naked, and the Scotch having driven their cattle and flocks into the mountains and strongholds, King Edward in his progress into Scotland lost many men by famine.† 26.86

    A peace was concluded upon here between England and Scotland in the year 1323, by the Commissioners of King Edward II. and King David Bruce for 13 years. Among the English Commissioners were Adomar Earl of Pembroke, and Hugh de Spencer, Lord High Cham∣berlain. Among those from Scotland, the Bishop of St. Andrew's, and the Earl of Murray.

    In 1327, Nov. 20th, the Commissioners of both nations met at New∣castle, and concluding a truce, such preliminaries for a settled peace were agreed upon, as were deemed worthy a parliamentary considera∣tion; and accordingly a parliament was summoned to assemble at York at Candlemas following, in which was given the memorable recognition of the right of Robert Bruce and his heirs to the Crown of Scotland, and the renunciation of all claim and right to the dominion or sove∣reignty of the kingdom by King Edward III. and his successors Kings of England, and that the said kingdom should be held for ever divided and distinct from the kingdom of England, and in all respects inde∣pent of it; and to that end, all writings and evidences to the contrary should be deemed null and void: and on the part of King Robert Bruce, 20,000l. was stipulated to be paid by Scotland, in three yearly pay∣ments, to King Edward's officers at Tweedmouth.

    Page 422

    In 1328, King Edward III. remitted to the Burgesses of Newcastle all debts and arrears due to him or his progenitors.* 26.87

    King Edward III. having placed Edward Baliol on the throne of Scotland, kept his Whitsuntide, A. D. 1334, at Newcastle, with great splendour and magnificence. In the month of June, in quality of So∣vereign Lord of Scotland, he received there, in a public and solemn manner, the fealty and homage of the Scotch King: at the same time Baliol ceded to him large Scotch territories, in satisfaction of the ex∣pences sustained in restoring the Crown to him, as its hereditary claim∣ant. By the following passage in Lel. Col. vol. I. p. 469, it appears that greater cessions were made by Baliol:

    And this Edwarde Baillol condescendid with Eduarde King of England, after that he had done the accustomid services, that if he died without heyres, the realme of Scotlande should remayne to King Edwarde of England and his heyres for ever. And this pact was made at Newcastle upon Tyne.

    Through the interposition of the King of France, Edward consented to a truce with David Bruce's party, who had opposed Edward Baliol; on the expiration of which, about Midsummer 1335, both Kings held their rendezvous at Newcastle with a powerful army, preparatory to their entry into Scotland.

    In the year 1336, King Edward met the Scotch Delegates at New∣castle, when he acceded to proposals made by the Pope's Nuncio, for a further time of truce.

    In 1341, it was granted, that no goods be sold until a plank be laid to the ship, on forfeiture of the goods.

    In 1342, David King of Scots having committed horrid ravages on his march through Northumberland, came before Newcastle with a powerful army, amounting in numbers, as some authors insist, to 60,000 foot and 3000 horse. John Lord Nevil, who commanded in the castle, made a sally with 200 chosen lancemen, who entering the Scotch camp, surprized the Earl of Murray, one of the chief in command, in bed, and dragged him forth naked, returning to the castle with their pri∣soner

    Page 423

    and much booty, not having lost one man. The Scotch enraged at the disgrace, began a fierce but irregular attack, and were repulsed with great slaughter. The bravery of the garrison induced David to raise the siege and march towards Durham, which city he took by storm, and with the most savage barbarity put the inhabitants to the sword, without distinction of age, sex, or condition.* 26.88

    In 1346, Newcastle furnished 17 ships and 314 mariners for the siege of Calais: a force superior to that provided by any northern port in England but Yarmouth; which shews the power and consequence of this place in so early an aera. In King Edward the Second's time there was an order of the King and Council for a staple here.† 26.89

    In 1353, Commissioners met at Newcastle for the deliverance of David King of Scotland on Ransom. The Delegates for England were the Bishop of Durham, William de Bohun Earl of Northampton and Con∣stable of England, Gilbert de Umfreyvill, Earl of Angus, the Lords de Percy and de Nevill, William Baron of Greystock, and Henry le Scroop. For Scotland, the Bishop of St. Andrew's and Brechin, Patric of Dunbar Earl of the March of Scotland, the Abbot of Dumfermelin, and Walter de Moffet Archdeacon of Leonesse.‡ 26.90

    In 1353, King Edward III. in his rout to Scotland kept his Christmas at Newcastle.

    In 1363, there happened a frost which continued from the middle of September to the month of April.

    In 1390, licence was granted to the Mayor and his successors to have a sword borne before them.

    Froisard speaks of a remarkable rencounter near Newcastle, in the 11th year of the reign of King Richard II.

    The Scots having invaded England, and being come into the Bishoprick of Durham, the Earl of Northumberland sent his two sons, viz. Sir Henry and Sir Ralph, to Newcastle, to which place the county were appointed to come: where∣upon ensued several light skirmishes betwixt the English and them,

    Page 424

    and many proper feats of arms done. Amongst others there fought hand to hand the Earl Douglas and Sir Henry Percy; and by force of arms the Earl won Sir Henry's penon. Whereupon Sir Henry and all the English were sore displeased; the Earl saying to him, Sir, I shall bear this token of your prowess into Scotland, and shall set it on high on my castle of Alquest, that it may be seen afar off: which so provoked the Percys, that after divers bold adventures against the Scotch forces, at length they obtained the victory, and slew the Earl James Douglas; but Sir Ralph Percy was therein wounded and taken prisoner by a Scotch Knight.* 26.91 And after this, in another encounter, this Sir Henry Percy, fighting valiantly with the Lord Mountcumber, a stout Knight of Scotland, was by him taken prisoner.

    In 1415, the head of Sir Thomas Grey of Werk was placed on one of the gates of Newcastle; he was a conspirator against the life of the King, with the Earl of Cambridge and Lord Scroop.

    In the year 1451, Plenipotentiaries from King Henry VI. and King James II. of Scotland, met at Newcastle and concluded a truce for three years. They put their seals to the instrument in the church of St. Nicholas. The time of truce was enlarged A. D. 1459, by Commissioners who met at Newcastle for that purpose: and in the reign of King Edward IV. 1465, the time was again enlarged, and through a friendly intercourse which took place between the English King and the Scotch Regency, a peace was soon afterwards established.

    1st May, 1460, James Butler Earl of Wilts and Ormond, taken pri∣soner by Richard Salkeld, Esq after Towton battle, a firm Lancastrian, was beheaded at Newcastle.† 26.92

    In the year 1544, Edw. Seymore Earl of Hertford, sent by King Henry VIII. to execute his vengeance on the Scotch, embarked 10,000 men from this port in 200 ships, and sailed into the Firth. In this expedition the city of Edinburgh, with Leith and Dunbar, and many other considerable places, were pillaged and burnt.

    Page 425

    The army under the command of the Duke of Somerset, mustered at Newcastle in the year 1547, in order to their advancing against Scotland.

    By an act of parliament passed in the 7th year of King Edward VI. 1553, it was enacted, that in Newcastle there should be no greater num∣ber than four taverns or wine sellers to sell or utter wine by retail.

    In Strype's Annals, vol. 4. p. 306, No. CCXXIII, is the following article.

    Matthew Archbishop of York and the rest of the Councel in the north to Lord Treasurer Burleigh.

    The Justices of Assizes have adjourned the assizes and jayl delivery for the counties of Duresme and Northumberland, in regard of the great infection of the plague in those counties, especially in and about Duresme and Newcastle. For which respect likewise we have ad∣journed all causes depending before this Councel, between such par∣ties as are inhabiting within those counties, until the sitting after Michaelmas, before which time we hope the sickness will stay. And so beseeching God to bless your Lordship with his manifold graces, we humbly take our leaves. At York this 6th day of July 1597.
    Signed by the Archbishop Charles Hales and Jo. Fuerne.

    King James I. on the 9th of April 1603, entered Newcastle in his progress to the capital, and remained three days there. He granted the Burgesses a confirmatory charter by letters patent dated 31 March, 1604.

    In the time of King Charles I. A. D. 1643, Newcastle sustained a siege, the Scotch advancing against it under the command of Lesley, who dividing the forces, attacked it vigorously on two sides at once. The Marquis of Newcastle, then Governor for the King, maintained the place, though the enemy gained part of the outworks; and some un∣fortunate sallies were made. In the succeeding year the Scots took it by storm. Sir John Merlay then Mayor retired to the castle with about 500 men, which he held till terms of capitulation were obtained. The inhabitants saved the town from being plundered by payment of a large sum of money. The Parliament disfranchised the body corporate, and ordered the Mayor to be tried by a court martial. Sir Henry An∣derson,

    Page 426

    one of the Representatives in Parliament, was expelled the House for joining the royal army. The town at the time of these ca∣lamities, was also visited by the plague.

    In the year 1646, the King came from Lumley Castle, in the county of Durham, and put himself under the protection of the Scotch General Leven.* 26.93 Whilst they remained at Newcastle they raised a subsidy from the adjoining country, amounting to 8000l. a month before the King's arrival, and 9000l. a month after: which was obtained under the threats of military execution in case of default.

    These men from whom the King sought protection, sold him for a trifling sum, though it was the price of their eternal infamy.

    Many instances not mentioned here, occur in history, which shew the importance of Newcastle; as a place for convention, the rendezvous of large armies, and the resort of the Monarchs of both nations, their Envoys and Plenipotentiaries, when treaties were held between the two kingdoms.

    In the reign of King Henry III. A. D. 1249, the town suffered greatly by fire. It sustained a great loss, by a sudden inundation of the river Tyne, in the reign of King Edward III. when 120 persons were drowned. In the year 1771, it again suffered by an inundation; when four of the arches of the bridge were destroyed, with 22 houses, and six of the inhabitants.† 26.94 One of the houses remained for some time, suspended in an amazing manner, over a dreadful chasm, sustained by the compact∣ness of its materials and its timber; and clinging by a small part of its foundation, on one of the piers, from which the arch was broken down.

    Page 427

    From thence the miserable inhabitants looked on the raging waters and the horrid ruins with distraction, and sent forth cries of despair to mul∣titudes

    Page 428

    of spectators, who could not lend them aid. At length the fatal moment arrived that closed the tremendous spectacle; the house with its inhabitants sunk, and were swallowed up in the destructive torrent.

    The ancient bridge was of wood and in the 33d year of the reign of King Henry III. was destroyed by fire. The late bridge was con∣structed of stone, and consisted of 12 arches; three of which on the north were closed up and used as cellars. It was built about 500 years ago, Walter Kirkham,* 26.95 Bishop of Durham, being a great contributor thereto.† 26.96 It was crowded with buildings. Near the middle was a tower with an iron gate, which the Corporation used as a town prison. This tower was of considerable service some years ago, in preventing the further communication of a fire which consumed many houses ad∣joining it. At the south end was formerly another tower and a draw-bridge. A blue stone near the middle of the bridge denoted the boun∣dary of the town's liberty, the southern end of the bridge appertaining to the See of Durham. In the year 1416, a claim of the Corporation to the whole bridge occasioned a suit, in which the right of the Bishop of Durham to the southern part was established. Thomas Ruthal, Bishop of Durham in the reign of King Henry VII. repaired the southern part.‡ 26.97

    A strong building crossed the bridge, which was used as a magazine for the town. On the south front was an elegant statue of King Cha. II.

    Page 429

    with this motto, Adventus Regis, Solamen Gregis. There was an open∣ing in the battlements of the bridge railed with iron, for the conveni∣ence of passengers to look upon the river and shipping: Mr Bourne re∣lates a story, that from thence one Anderson, an Alderman, dropt his signet ring into the river; that some time afterwards his own servant having bought a salmon for his table, in opening the fish the ring was found in its intrails, and was in his days in the custody of a descendant of Mr Anderson. Herodotus gives an account of a similar circumstance happening to Polycrates King of Samos, who was called the favourite of Fortune.

    On the 20th of June 1770, the workmen began to pull down the west end of St. Thomas's chapel, in order to open the passage to the bridge.

    In the inundation 11th Nov. 1771, the water was supposed to be at its height about seven in the morning, and to have risen upwards of 12 feet above high water mark in spring tides. From Tyne Head, in Aldston Moor, to Shields, was a continued scene of horror and devas∣tation.

    An act of parliament passed 3d June 1772, to enable the Bishop of Durham and his successors to raise a competent sum of money, to be applied for the repairing, improving, or rebuilding such part of Tyne Bridge as belongs to the See of Durham.

    On the 10th June 1772, one Stephenson contracted to build a tem∣porary bridge over the Tyne in four months time, under a great pe∣nalty; which was performed.

    On Tuesday 25th April 1775, the first stone of the south pier of the new bridge, within the boundaries of this Corporation, was laid by Sir Matthew White Ridley, Mayor.

    From the evidence of the ancient name of Pons Aelii and the Roman road from Chester leading thereto, it is conjectured that the Romans had a bridge here.

    Mr Pennant is of opinion,

    that part of the Roman bridge remained till the late inundation; for from the observation of workmen upon the old piers, those as well as the piers of the bridge at Bywell, seem originally to have been formed without any springs for arches. This

    Page 430

    was a manner of building used by the Romans, witness the bridge built over the Danube by Trajan at Severin, whose piers (he believes) still exist. Adrian was probably the founder of the bridge at New∣castle, which was called after his family name Pons Aelii, in the same manner as Jerusalem was styled Elia Capitolina, and the games he instituted at Pincum in Maesia, Aeliana Pincensia. The coins disco∣vered on pulling down some of the piers in 1774, confirm my opinion. Several were discovered, but only three or four rescued from the hands of the workmen. All of them are coins posterior to the time of Adrian, probably deposited there in some later repairs. One of them is a beautiful Faustina the Elder after her deification. Her fore∣head is bound with a small tiara; her hair full, twisted and dressed a la moderne; round is inscribed Diva Faustina. On the reverse is Ceres, with a torch in one hand and ears of corn in the other. The inscription Augusta S. C.

    The next has the laureated head of Antoninus Pius. On the reverse Apollo, with a patera in one hand and a plectrum in the other; the le∣gend so much defaced as to be illegible.

    The third is Lucius Verus (like that of Faustina after consecration). On the reverse is a magnificent funeral pile, and the word Consecratio. S. C.

    Within a little distance from Newcastle lies

    JESMOND,* 26.98

    an ancient Hospital, with a chapel appertaining to it, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. King Edward VI. granted this place to the Corporation of Newcastle, who sold it to Sir Robert Brandling. The hospital is now used as a dwelling-house, and the chapel is converted into a stable.

    There was a well at Jesmond, greatly resorted to by persons labour∣ing under infirmities, for its salutary qualities. It had as many steps down to it as there are articles in the Creed. Many pilgrimages were made to Jesmond, to visit the shrine of the Virgin, and to partake of the miraculous virtues of the sanctified spring. The superstition of paying reverence to salubrious springs, seems to be derived from the Romans.

    Page 431

    In the first year of the reign of King Henry VIII. a mob headed by several of the Aldermen and principal inhabitants of Newcastle, assem∣bled here with intent to slay the Prior of Tinemouth. The cause of this outrage my author doth not mention.* 26.99

    From the same authority it appears, that soon after Jesmond became the property of Mr Coulson, he enclosed the well, and converted it into a bath; but in a short time the water forsook the well, which a∣larmed the superstitious much. But whilst the cry against this pro∣fanation was warmest, the waters returned, and the miracle was washed away.

    ELSWICK

    is about a mile west from Newcastle, the seat of John Hodgson, Esq formerly part of the possessions of the manastery of Tynemouth. Soon after the dissolution it came by purchase to the family of Jennisons, whose property it was for some generations. It is an old house, but has an excellent situation, commanding a fine prospect to the east and south. The eastern prospect comprehends, among other objects, Newcastle and Gateshead: the southern, the rich borders of Tyne, the vales of Lamesley, and the castles of Ravensworth and Lumley, in the county of Durham.

    On the right hand of the road leading to Benwell is

    FENHAM,

    the seat of William Ord, Esq a handsome modern structure, command∣ing a distant view of Tyne below Newcastle, with all the beauties of its navigation, the scene being crowded with shipping mixing with villages and hamlets: the church and village of Jarrow are in view, and at a greater distance on the opposite side of the river, the village of Chirton: it is said in a clear day the ruins of Tynemouth are the terminating ob∣jects of this noble landskip. Fenham was anciently part of the possessions of the Knights Templars, and in the 18th of King Edward II. A. D. 1324, was by parliament granted to the Hospitallers of St. John of Jeru∣salem. On the dissolution in the 31st of King Henry VIII. A. D. 1540,

    Page 432

    the Prior died of grief.* 26.100 It was for some time the estate of the Riddels of Swinburn Castle.

    We advanced to

    BENWELL,

    one of the most delightful situations in the north of England, the estate of Andrew Robinson Stoney Bowes, Esq It was the possession of the Shaftoes † 26.101 of the Bavington family ‡ 26.102 for several generations, and an∣ciently a member of the barony of Bolbeck. The present mansion-house is united with the ancient tower, and retains the name of Benwell Tower. The pleasure grounds are not extensive, but disposed in a good taste; commanding a view of the Tyne and its rich borders, with the island called the King's Meadows: the more distant prospect is graced with Axwell Park, the elegant mansion of Sir Thomas Clavering (of Payne's architecture) and the hanging woods of Gibside, where, tower∣ing above every other object, an obelisk is seen, on which stands a fine figure of liberty.§ 26.103

    Page 433

    Benwell was the Condercum of the Romans:* 26.104 the distinct remains of the station appear on Benwell Hill. The observations made thereon and the course of the wall from Newcastle to Rutchester, by Mr Horsley

    Page 434

    and Mr Warburton, are to the following effect. No appearance of either of the Roman walls can be expected as far as the buildings of Newcastle extend; but as soon as they are well ended, some feint ves∣tiges

    Page 435

    of both, or of what has belonged to them, begin to shew them∣selves: for just at the end of Westgate, on the south side of the highway, Hadrian's Ditch seems pretty visible; and near the Quarry House some

    Page 436

    feint marks of the Ditch and north Agger begin to appear, but chiefly of the latter; and this state of the Vallum extends to Benwell Fort. As to Severus's Wall, little or nothing relating to it can be discovered be∣tween

    Page 437

    the town and the Quarry House: some visible remains of a cas∣tellum are discoverable just behind the Quarry House, and the line of the wall appeared to go through the midst of the house. The castellum is conveniently placed for prospect, and is the only one that is visible between Newcastle and the next station: by the distance there should have been another, but it is quite demolished. From the Quarry House to Elswick Windmill, Severus's wall is difficult to trace; but from thence to the fort on Benwell Hill, the appearance of the ditch is fre∣quently very distinct, and the track of wall (which keeps much upon the high road) pretty certain.

    From the station at Newcastle (which is placed by these Antiquaries near the castle) to Benwell Hill, is near two miles and a furlong, and no inscriptions have been discovered in this space; at least none now remain, nor even the remembrance of any.

    The situation of the station on Benwell Hill is high, and the prospect considerable: the ramparts are large and distinct, but the ditch scarce to be discerned. Hadrian's vallum seems to have fallen in with the south side of it, and Severus's wall strikes upon the east and west sides, so as to leave three chains to the north and six to the south; but there is no appearance of the wall and its ditch being continued through the fort, though Mr Gordon has so represented it. There are stones in the road that now crosses this fort, but these seem only to have been taken

    Page 438

    out of the ruins to repair the highway. This station falls in course to be Condercum, the name given in the Notitia to be the third in the se∣ries, where the Ala Prima Astorum was quartered.

    From the station at Benwell Hill, Severus's wall and ditch, in going down to Denton, continue much in the same state as before; but Ha∣drian's work on this side begins to appear more conspicuous; both the walls pass to the north of the hill and village of Benwell; from Denton to the Chapel Houses, both the walls and their ditches are almost all the way visible and distinct: over-against West Denton Hall there seemed to be the visible remains of a castellum, and somewhat like the ruins of a Turret not very far from it.

    Near the Chapel Houses, about a furlong south from Severus's wall, and less from Hadrian's, are somewhat like the ruins of a rampart: it is called the Castle Steads, the name usually given to those castella that are regularly placed along Severus's wall; but this (besides its being at some distance from the wall, which the others never are) appears to have been of a quite different form and dimensions; for it is about four chains long, with an interval in the middle, that looks like a gate, and so makes it appear very like the south rampart of a small fort: but if there have been ramparts on the other sides, no traces of them ap∣pear at present. The prospect here, especially to the south, is very con∣siderable; perhaps it has been an exploratory tower belonging to Ha∣drian's work, and prior to Severus's, and so neglected in his time. The usual castellum belonging to Severus's wall, is about a furlong west from the Chapel Houses, and visible there; so that the other can neither be one of these, nor intended to supply the place of one. From the name Chapel Houses, one would expect to find some ruinous chapel there; and I should have suspected somewhat of these ruins to have been of that nature, if the name Castle Steads had not determined against it.

    From Chapel Houses to Wallbottle both walls and ditches are pretty visible, and continue so to Newburn Dean: but on the descent from the Chapel Houses to Wallbottle, Hadrian's north Agger becomes very con∣spicuous, and holds so for the most part to Newburn Dean. Between Wallbottle and this Dean is a castellum still very visible; and from the Dean to Throcklow, Hadrian's vallum and ditch are discernible, but not very large, and Severus's wall not quite so plain.

    Page 439

    Over-against Throcklow, in a convenient high place, there seems to be the ruins of another castellum; but near the village the vallum is very obscure. From Throcklow to Heddon on the Wall, Severus's wall and ditch are very conspicuous, and Hadrian's vallum and ditch near as visible. The north Agger is also discernible for part of the way, and near Heddon it is very considerable. Before we come to Heddon, there is on the north side of the wall, another place of the same nature with that at Chapel Houses, and called likewise Castle Steads. The re∣mains are very confused, and as it is altogether on the north of the wall, and detached a little from it, it seems to be a castellum erected prior to the wall, and neglected after the building of it. The prospect from this place is very good, which makes it the more likely to have been of the exploratory kind. However there seems to have been an usual castellum in Severus's wall, very near to these ruins; which is a further proof, that the other has not been used after the wall was erected. It seems to have been twice as large as one of Severus's cas∣tella, and yet not large enough for a station. Three sides, the north, east, and west, may be traced out, but the other is entirely levelled.

    HEDDON,

    commonly called Heddon on the Wall, was part of the barony of Hugh de Bolbeck, who gave the appropriation and advowson of the church here to the Abbey of Blanchland.

    In Nov. 1752, the workmen employed in making the military road which leads from Carlisle, found a great number of curious Roman coins and medals in the ruins of the Roman wall here. They had been deposited in wood boxes, which were almost decayed: several of the medals were fresh and fair, as if but newly struck: some of them are of silver, but most part of copper and mixt metal. They are thought to be as valuable a collection as has been discovered for some centuries past.

    Near Heddon on the Wall somewhat appears like Severus's military way, pretty near to his wall; but it is rather probable this appearance is nothing but the stones and ruins of the wall, and that the military ways have here coincided, because the north Agger is so large, though in a ploughed field: not far from this place there have been some re∣markable Tumuli. The village Heddon Lawes, which stands upon a

    Page 440

    hill, has no doubt had its name from such Tumuli. There is yet re∣maining one very great heap of stones, besides other Tumuli, and a re∣markable one farther to the east, called Dewly Lawe, with a smaller one near it. The whole hill is like the ruins of a quarry, but curious and worth the seeing. If regard be had to the distance of 12 miles from the sea, Heddon on the Wall would seem to be Bede's VILLA AD MURUM, and not either Wall's End or Wall Town.

    From Heddon to Rutchester, both the walls and their ditches are dis∣tinct; and a little before we come to Rutchester, Hadrian's north Agger is distinct. Here is another castellum, the remains of which are very visible, and an oval fort, (though it seems not to be Roman) near it. The whole distance between the station at Benwell Hill and this at Rutchester, is six measured miles and three quarters; in this space there are six visible castella, in a series without interruption, and the constant exact measure between them is, six furlongs and three quar∣ters; and the whole distance between the two stations, six measured miles and three quarters: the two castella that have been next the fort at Benwell Hill, have no visible remains.

    We passed in view of Denton Hall, a seat of the ancient family of Montagues, to

    NEWBURN,

    a borough given by King John to Robert son of Roger de Clavering, Baron of Warkworth. John the last Lord Clavering having granted the reversion of it to the Crown, in the 6th year of the reign of King Edward I. it was given to Henry Lord Percy by King Edward III in the second year of his reign, and is now part of the possessions of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland. The village is chiefly inhabited by Miners. The impropriation and advowson of the church of New∣burn was given by King Henry I. together with St. Nicholas in New∣castle, to the Church and Canons of St. Mary in Carlisle. The church is in the form of a cross, having a tower. Here is a tomb of the Delaval family.* 26.105

    Page 441

    Newburn was a place of consequence and note preceding the con∣quest. Copsi who was created Earl of Northumberland by King William, was put to death here. Osulf the preceding Governor, expelled by the Conqueror to give place to Copsi, being forced into the woods and de∣serts, lay concealed till he had collected a few hardy troops; with these he besieged Copsi, and at length obliged him to take refuge in the church. Osulf disregarding all veneration for things sacred, when put in competition with his desperate fortune and revenge, set fire to the holy pile; and as Copsi endeavoured to shun the flames, he was seized, and his head severed on the spot.

    At this village, on the 28th of August, 16 King Charles I. A. D. 1640, Lord Conway with an army of 3000 foot and 1500 horse, opposed the passage of the Scots over the river Tyne, led by Lesley.* 26.106 The Scots

    Page 442

    with great intrepidity passed the river, breast deep, in the face of the English army, who were drawn up on the opposite banks. Three hun∣dred Scotch horse were obliged to repass the river, being opposed by a

    Page 443

    body of foot covered by a breast-work; but Lesley getting nine pieces of cannon * 26.107 to play upon the English lines, a panic seized the whole line of infantry, they threw down their arms and fled with the utmost preci∣pitation, leaving the horse under Commissary General Wilmot, accom∣panied by many Gentlemen of rank, exposed to the enemy's artillery and the united force of the whole body of Scots: till overpowered by numbers, and having sustained a loss of 300 men and upwards, they were obliged to retreat. The foot were soon ashamed of their flight, wishing to repair their disgrace, and revenge it on a foe, who hardly credited their own success; but the timid General uninfluenced by the same sense of honour, never afterwards turned his face to the enemy.† 26.108 Lord Clarendon calls this defeat, an irreparable rout. The General's conduct was inquired into on his coming to York, where he told the story of his defeat to the King: he was accused of cowardice and trea∣chery, and though he used his utmost art to put a gloss upon his con∣duct,

    Page 444

    yet the strongest shew of conscious guilt was discoverable in his manners, and the confusion of his language and countenance.* 26.109

    I now repassed the Tyne, and entered into the Bishopric of Durham.

    Having compleated my view of each remarkable place within this extensive and opulent county, I shall proceed, by way of compendium of the cursory remarks which I made in each particular district, to shew the importance of Northumberland in a collected and clear point of view.

    By a geographical table lately published, it appears that the area of Northumberland contains 131,000 acres, and is 155 miles in circum∣ference; having 3 boroughs, 13 market towns, 460 parishes, 22,741 dwelling-houses, 113,705 inhabitants; sends 8 Members to Parliament, and pays in proportion to the land-tax 5. It is divided into 7 wards; has 4 chief rivers, Tyne, Tweed, Alne, and Coquet; is within the dio∣cese of Durham, and gives a Ducal title. Newcastles lies in lat. 55:0, whose distance and bearing from London in measured miles is 278½ N. W.

    The revenues of the church in this county, exclusive of Newcastle and Hexhamshire, exceed 11,000l. a year.

    Northumberland sends two Knights of the Shire to Parliament.† 26.110 The first upon record were summoned in the 26th year of the reign of

    Page 445

    King Edward I. A Sheriff was appointed in the year of our Lord 1154, in the first year of the reign of King Henry II.* 26.124

    Page 446

    The lands produce fine corn. On the banks of Tweed excellent cattle are bred, of which some have come to the weight of 160 stone (14lb. to the stone): the ordinary cattle in the interior parts of the

    Page 447

    country, are of a middle size and mixed breed, between Dutch and Scotch, which are very beautiful, and yield abundance of milk: smaller cattle, of the Highland kind, are bred in the mountainous parts. The

    Page 448

    hills afford fine sheep walks, and the flocks are numerous: in some parts of the county, of late years, they have been much improved, by the in∣troduction

    Page 449

    of Leicestershire and Lincolnshire sheep; by which cross the fleeces are become much better, and the sheep feed to an improved weight. Few of the large sheep are kept in this county.

    Page 450

    Improved husbandry makes a rapid progress, and enclosures take place of the wide extended tracts, where many Herdsmen were hereto∣fore necessarily employed to keep the cattle and flocks within their bounds.

    Page 451

    For so large a tract of land, there are few considerable woods of tim∣ber trees, and planting seems to proceed but languidly; except in the vale of Whittingham and some other tracts, where a laudable example has been given.

    Page 452

    The rivers abound with salmon and trout, and the coasts with cod, ling, turbot, soles, place, whitings, haddocks, crabs, lobsters, muscles, and cockles.

    Page 453

    The great staple of Northumberland is coal. By the following tables, the importance of this county to the state at large will appear, in its

    Page 454

    exports and numbers of ships. From that concise plan, the produce is immediately deduced, in all its articles of trade. By the imports is

    Page 455

    shewn how few foreign articles are wanted to contribute to the pleasures and luxuries of life, other than those produced within its own limits.

    Page 456

    Exports at Berwick in the year 1776.

    To foreign parts: Corn 2500 qrs. Salmon 700 barrels

    Page 457

    In the coast trade: Wheat 13,000 qrs. Oats 19,000 qrs. Salmon 50,000 kits

    Page 458

    Eggs 5000 chests, each containing 1700. Tallow Candles 230 cwt.

    Page 459

    ALEMOUTH Exports chiefly Corn shipped for Scotland and the London market.

    Page 460

    CAMMAS WATER. Exports: Corn sent coastwise—Grindstones to foreign parts 1400 chald.

    Page 461

    BLYTH. Exports: Coals 14,000 chald. Salt 250 ton.

    Page 462

    HARTLEY HAVEN.

    Exports: Coals 18,000 chald. Bottles 70,000 doz. Salt 300 ton. Copperas 100 ton.

    Page 463

    Page 464

    NEWCASTLE Exports in the Year 1776.
    Countries and Islands. No. of Ships Tonnage. Species of Mer∣chandise. Quantity in
    Brit. Bottoms Foreign Bot.
    Africa British 1   Lead Shot 5 c. 0 qr.  
      50 White Glass 18 1  
          Green Glass 16 0  
          Bar Iron 160 0  
          Wrought Iron 10 0  
          Rice 6 0  
          Gunpowder 900lb.  
          Haberdashery 896  
          Ale 195 gall.  
          Paper 60 reams  
          Earthen Ware 500 pieces  
          Muskets 100  
          Gunflints 10,000  
          Looking-Glasses 144  
    Alderney British 1   Coals 40 chald.  
      60 Earthen Ware 300 pieces  
    Denmark and Norway British 1383   Coals 7347 chald. 76 chald.
    14,259 Grindstones 247 306
      Foreign   Salt 130 tons
      50 2416 Tow 138 c. 0 qr. 309 c. 0 qr.
          Lead 10,167 0 1586 0
          Lead Shot 143 0 50 0
          White Glass 75 0 13 1
          Green Glass 96 3 549 2
          Wrought Iron 270 0 4 2
          Steel 7 3 7 3
          Cheese 30 0
          Worsted Stuffs 2240 lb. 4204 lb.
          Haberdashery 864 114
          Flour Mustard 1883 346
          Indico 369  
          Tann'd Leather 835
          Dressed Flax 2412
          Ale 96 gall. 57 gall.
          Rubstones 12 doz. 16 doz.
          Felt Hats 40
          Worst. Stockings 10
          Silk Gauze 200 yards 9 yards
          Velverets 200 750
          Col. Wool. Cloth 1590 7755

    Page 465

    Denmark and Norway.     Linen 121 yards
        Printed Cottons 142
          Flannel 280
          Corduroy 80
          Earthen Ware 12,700 pieces 17,400 pieces
          Tobacco Pipes 53 gross
          Bricks 1000 12,500
    Flanders British 3   Coals 180 chald.  
      170 Grindstones 2  
    France British 89   Coals 6165  
      10,741 Grindstones 467  
          Lead 764 t c. 3 qr.  
          Litherage 6 0  
          Copperas 443 1  
          Rubstones 183 doz.  
          Earthen Ware 300 pieces  
    Germany British 89   Coals 7933 chald. 36 chald.
      14,209 Grindstones 139 9
      Foreign 3   Salt 69 tons 69 tons
      190 Lead 551 c. 2 qr.  
          Lead Shot 88 2  
          White Glass 298 0  
          Green Glass 41 3  
          Wrought Iron 1 0  
          Copperas 340 1  
          Litherage 61 2  
          Mustard 120 lb.  
          Ale 100 gall.  
          Rubstones 38 doz.  
          Flagstones 4  
          Earthen Ware 4250 pieces 5300 pieces
          Col. Wool. Cloth 80 yards 80 yards
          Sadler's Ware 60l. val.  
          Housh. Furniture 80l.  
    Gibraltar British 14   Coals 980 chald.  
      1160 Green Glass 203 c. 1 qr.  
          Ale 68 gall.  
          Earthen Ware 600 pieces  

    Page 466

    Greenland Seas British 4   Fishing Stores, and Provisions for six months.    
    1360    
    Guernsey British 11   Coals 624 chald.  
      1050 Grindstones 4  
          White Glass 4c. 3 qr.  
          Green Glass 248 1  
          Mustard 1400 lb.  
          Earthen Ware 15,500 pieces  
    Holland British 19   Coals 455 chald.  
      1741 Grindstones 560  
      Foreign 1   Lead 2202 c. 0 qr.  
      50 Lead Shot 17 0  
          White Glass 544 2  
          Green Glass 4284 2  
          Litherage 1397 2  
          Copperas 1366 0  
          Foreign Wheat 244 qrs.  
          Flour Mustard 39lb.  
          Earthen Ware 700 pieces  
    Jersey British 7   Coals 320 chald.  
      608 Grindstones 12  
          Lead 5 c. 0 qr.  
          Lead Shot 17 2  
          White Glass 55 0  
          Green Glass 213 2  
          Wrought Iron 18 1  
          Steel 12 0  
          Earthen Ware 19,000 pieces  
    Ireland British 3 409 White Glass 1184 c. 2 qr.  
        Green Glass 418 3  
          Steel 28 0  
    Minorca British 1        
      170 Coals 104 chald.  
    N. America British 1   Coals 8  
      70 Biscuit Bread 32 tons 10 c.  
          Cordage 30 c. 3 qr.  
          Butter 20 1  
          Cheese 4 1  

    Page 467

    N. America     Soap 5 c. 3 qr.  
          Oakham 6 0  
          Wheat Flour 75 qrs.  
    Poland British 5 360 Coals 247 chald. 80 chald.
        Grindstones 12  
      Foreign 1 150 Col. Wool. Cloths 100 yards  
        Velverets 60  
          Firestones 147  
          Worst. Stockings 50 pairs  
          Flour Mustard 120lb.  
          Wheat Flour 6 qrs.  
          Earthen Ware 400 pieces  
    Portugal British 14   Coals 932 chald.  
      1904 Green Glass 457 c. 3 qr.  
          Wrought Iron 30 0  
          Wheat 100 qrs.  
          Barley 365  
          Ale 188 gall.  
    Prussia British 6   Coals 224 chald.  
      712 Grindstones 155  
          Rubstones 12 doz.  
          Corn Machines 3  
    Russia British 9   Coals 295 chald.  
      932 Grindstones 66  
          Lead 2382 c. 3 qr.  
          White Glass 58 2  
          Green Glass 3002 3  
          Worsted Stuffs 114 lb.  
          Flour Mustard 408  
          Indico 1560  
          Velverets 121 yards  
          Corduroy 100  
          Col. Wool. Cloths 1310  
          Tobacco Pipes 30 gross  
          Rubstones 25 doz.  
    Spain British 1   Wheat 1138 qrs.  
      120      

    Page 468

    Sweden British 16   Coals 1212 chald. 12 chald.
      2140 Grindstones 15 16
      Foreign 1   Lead 2012 c. 0 qr. 123 c. 3 qr.
      50 White Glass 11 3 8 2
          Flour Mustard 140 lb.  
          Ale 10 gall.  
          Earthen Ware 500 pieces 200 pieces
          Velverets 500 yards 150 yards
          Col. Wool. Cloths 1000 900
    West India Islands British 7   Coals 648 chald.  
    1300 Grindstones 2  
          Potatoes 12 tons  
          White Glass 46 c. 0 qr.  
          Cordage 15 2  
          Biscuit Bread 160 0  
          Hams 16 0  
          Flour of Mustard 56lb.  
          Wheat Flour 448 qrs.  
          Port Wine 146 gall.  
          Bricks 41,000  
          Pantiles 25,000  

    NEWCASTLE IMPORTS in the Year 1776.
            Quantities in
    Countries and Islands. No. of Ships. Tonnage. Species of Mer∣chandise. Brit. Bottoms Foreign Bot.
    Denmark and Norway. British 23   Common Deals 668 hun. 1 qr. 763 hun. 1 qr.
    2290 Battens 23 3 70 3
      Foreign 42   Paling Boards 3 1 40 1
      2876 Middle Balks 6 3 26 1
          Small Balks 12 2 41 1
          Double Uffers 1 1 13 0
          Single Uffers 10 0 22 0
          Capravens 5 1
          Small Spars 3 0 7 3
          Pipe Staves 10 0
          Handspikes 10 2 48 3
          Oars 0 2 3 1
          Oak-knees for Wherries 2 2 3 0
          Calf Skins in Hair 2 0
          Axhelves 2 2 3 1
          Boom Spars 0 2

    Page 469

    Denmark and Norway.     Spokes for Cart Wheels 28 hun. 1 qr.
          Oak Boards 0 1
          Oak Timber 1 load 0 ft 12 lds 15 ft
          Fir Timber 364 23 878 0
          Middle Masts 6 104
          Small Masts 87 184
          Wood Trays 11/••••/ Shock
          Wood Scoops 9 doz.
          Goats Skins in the Hair 10½½
          Bar Iron 18 t. 9 c. 1 qr. 18 tons 9 cwt.
          Kelp 1 19 2  
          Stock Fish 0 10 3  
          Carraway Seeds 0 4 3  
          Tar 51 lasts 3 bar. 26 lasts 3 bar.
          Small Nuts 14 barrels
          Ragstones 2300
    France British 4   Brandy 43 tons  
      700 Lintseed 2694 bush.  
          Apples 64  
          Prunes 45 cwt. 1 qr.  
          Tar 4⅔ lasts  
    French Fland. British 1   Sail Cloth 75 ells  
      40      
    Germany British 20   Raw Dutch Linen Yarn 1417 lb.  
      3640  
      Foreign 1   Smalts 24,932  
      240 White Peas 252 qrs.  
          Sail-cloth 32 ells  
          Oak Plank 201 lds 46 ft  
          Fir Timber 74 loads 18 ft
          Beech Plank 2 35  
          Oak Timber 10 15  
          Bottles Pyrmont Water 8 doz.  
          Rhenish Wine 37 gall.  
          Clap Boards 12  
          Barrel Boards 5 hun. 3 qrs.
          Pipe and Hogs∣head Staves 30 hund. 19 2

    Page 470

    Germany     Barrel Staves 22 hun. 0 qrs. 128 hun. 0 qr.
          Kilderkin Staves 17 2
          Firkin Staves 30 0 10 0
          Oak-knees 1 3  
          Great Masts 2  
          Horses 2  
    Greenland Seas British 4   Whale and Seal Blubber    
    1121 243 tons 2 qrs  
          Whale Fins 161 cwt. 3 qrs  
          Seal Skins 538  
    Guernsey British 1   French Wine 1 ton 2 qrs.  
      70      
    Holland British 12 910 Old Iron 3045 c. 2 qrs.  
      Rough Flax 4516 2  
      Foreign 1 80 Madder 347 2  
        Clover Seed 859 1  
          Sach. Saturnia 5 2  
          Fenugreec Seed 2 3  
          Broken Glass 91 0  
          Old Cordage 8 0  
          Steel Hemp 0 3  
          Geneva 1 ton 1 qr.  
          Rhenish Wine 2 1  
          Wainscot Boards 3415 inches  
          Lintseed 58 bush.  
          Hempseed 13  
          Chesnuts 24  
          Ruffia Mats 100  
          Wood Hoops 1800  
          Millstones 3  
          Dogstones 1⅓ last  
          Bottles Seltzer Water 15½ doz.  
          Chest of Wood Clocks Val. 5l.  
             
          Wheat 109 qrs.
          Blue Paper 10 reams  
          Sail-cloth 58 ells  
          Pack-thread 241 lb.  
          Mares 6  

    Page 471

    Jamaica British 1   Rum 15,134 gall.  
      160      
    Jersey British 2   Currants 55 cwt. 3 qrs.  
      110 Cyder 458 gall.  
          Wine 253  
          Cows 3  
    Poland British 2   Hogshead Staves 9 hun. 0 qrs.  
      176 Barrel Staves 10 1  
          Common Deals 1 0  
          Oak Plank 165 loads 6 ft  
          Fir Timber 11 46  
          Bar Iron 58 cwt. 3 qrs.  
          Tree Nails 4530  
    Portugal British 7   Port Wine 423 tons  
      650 Cork 2 cwt. 2 qrs.  
          Bacon Hams 2 2  
          Dried Plumbs 349 lb.  
          Onions 560 bunches  
    Prussia British 20   Rye 2262 qrs.  
      4255 Barley 800  
          White Peas 22  
          Common Deals 44 hun. 3 qrs.  
          Clap Boards 8 1  
          Pipe Staves 43 1  
          Battens 1 2  
          Barrel Staves 17 0  
          Small Spars 3 2  
          Oak-knees 1 0  
          Fir Timber 4347lds 5ft  
          Lathwood 43 fathom  
          Anchor Stocks 6  
          Great Masts 24  
          Middle Masts 5  
          Small Masts 10  
          Capravens 24  
          Kegs Sturgeon 12  
          Calf Skins in Hair 4400  
          Rough Hemp 17 cwt. 2 qrs.  
          Bar Iron 19 1  
          Tallow 22 0  

    Page 468

    Russia British 19   Bar Iron 361 t. 5 c. 2 q.  
      2739 Rough Hemp 575 10 2  
          Tow 1 11 2  
          Rough Flax 138 5 0  
          Pearl Ashes 7 13 1  
          Refined Tallow 1 19 0  
          Rope Tarr'd 0 5 3  
          Wainscots 1 hun. 0 qrs  
          Clap Boards 1 0  
          Pipe Staves 5 0  
          Small Spars 1 0  
          Common Deals 151 1  
          Battens 11 0  
          Handspikes 1 0  
          Drilling 19 2 ells  
          Sail Cloth 0 2  
          Linen 22 2  
          Fir Timber 80 loads  
          Lathwood 4 fathoms  
          Tar 120 lasts  
          Rye 1115 qrs.  
          Capravens 10  
          Empty Mats 10,000  
    Spain British 2   Wine 61 tons 2 qrs.  
      190 Olives 5 gall.  
          Raisins 280 cwt. 1 qr.  
          Sweet Almonds 0 2  
          Cork 15 0  
          Grapes 19 jars  
          Lemons 5000  
    Sweden British 10   Bar Iron 562 t. 14 cwt. 15 tons 8 cwt.
      950 Tallow 4 0  
      Foreign 1   Common Deals 322 hun. 0 qr. 9 hun. 0 qrs.
      40 Battens 6 0  
          Pipe Staves 8 1
          Small Spars 0 1  
          Oars 0 2  
          Middle Masts 2
          Tar 7 lasts 9 bar.
          Pitch 0 6
          Wood Tubs 10 doz.  

    Page 473

    COASTWISE 1766. Ships 4113.—Coals 350,803 chald.—Cinders 3716 chald.—Lead 6250 tons.

    There are upon the river Tyne, five Glass Bottle Houses, three Broad Glass Houses, two Crown Houses, two Flint Glass Manufactories, and one Plate Glass House.

    There are between 30 and 40 working Salt Pans.

    The great Crowley Iron Manufactory at Swalwell employs three Ships, about 150 tons each, throughout the year, in carrying the produce to the port of London only, besides their great vend at other places.

    BERWICK IMPORTS in the year 1776.
    No. of Ships. Species of Mer∣chandise. Quantity in British Bottoms.
    49 Common Deals 236 hund. 0 qrs.
      Battens 68 2
      Middle Balks 29 0
      Handspikes 17 0
      Paling Boards 23 0
      Single Uffers 2 0
      Small Balks 3 2
      Firkin Staves 6 0
      Fir Timber 1236 loads
      Oak Timber 4
      Bar Iron 109 tons
      Rough Flax 107 cwt.
      Clover Seed 134
      Lintseed 935 bushels
      Wainscot Boards 820 inches

    FINIS.

    Notes

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