Remarks on several parts of Italy, &c. in the years 1701, 1702, 1703:

BRESCIA, VERONA, PADUA.

_FROM Milan we travell'd thro' a very pleasant Country, to Brescia, and by the way cross'd the River Adda, that falls into the Lago di Como, which Virgil calls the Lake Larius, and running out at the other End loses it self at last in the Po, which is the great Re|ceptacle of all the Rivers of this Coun|try. The Town and Province of Bre|scia have freer Access to the Senate of Venice, and a quicker Redress of Injuries, than any other Part of their Dominions. They have always a mild and prudent Governor, and live much more happily than their Fellow-Subjects: For as they were once a Part of the Milanese, and are now on their Frontiers, the Veneti|ans dare not exasperate them, by the

Loads they lay on other Provinces, for fear of a Revolt; and are forc'd to Treat them with much more Indulgence than the Spaniards do their Neighbours, that they may have no Temptation to it. Brescia is famous for its Iron-Works. A small Day's Journey more brought us to Verona. We saw the Lake Benacus in our way, which the Italians now call Lago di Garda: It was so rough with Tempests when we pass'd by it, that it brought into my Mind Virgil's Noble Description of it.

Adde lacus tantos, te Lari maxime, teque Fluctibus & fremitu assurgens, Benace, ma|rino.

Here vex'd by Winter Storms Bena|cus raves, Confus'd with working Sands and rol|ling Waves; Rough and tumultuous like a Sea it lyes, So loud the Tempest roars, so high the Billows rise.

This Lake perfectly resembles a Sea, when it is work'd up by Storms. It is Thirty Five Miles in length, and Twelve in breadth. At the lower end of it we cross'd the Mincio.

—Tardis ingens ubi flexibus errat Mincius, & tenerâ praetexit arundine ripas.G. 3.Where the slow Mincius through the Valley strays: Where cooling Streams invite the Flocks to drink, And Reeds defend the winding Waters Brink.Dryden.

The River Adige runs thro' Verona; so much is the Situation of the Town chang'd from what it was in Silius Ita|licus his Time.

—Verona Athesi circumflua.L. 8. Verona by the circling Adige bound.

This is the only great River in Lom|bardy that does not fall into the Po; which it must have done, had it run but a little further before its entering the Adriatic. The Rivers are all of them mention'd by Claudian.

—Venetosque erectior amnes Magnâ voce ciet. Frondentibus humida ripis Colla levant, pulcher Ticinus, & Addua visu

Caerulus, & velox Athesis, tardusque meatu Mincius, inque novem consurgens ora Tima|vus.Sexto con. Hon.Venetia's Rivers, summon'd all around, Hear the loud Call, and answer to the Sound: Her dropping Locks the Silver Tessin rears, The blue transparent Adda next appears, The rapid Adige then erects her Head, And Mincio rising slowly from his Bed, And last Timavus, that with eager force From Nine wide Mouths comes gushing to his Course.

His Larius is doubtless an Imitation of Virgil's Benacus.

—Umbrosâ vestit qua littus olivâ Larius, & dulci mentitur Nerea fluctu.De Bel. Get.The Larius here, with Groves of O|lives Crown'd, An Ocean of fresh Water spreads around.

I saw at Verona the Famous Amphi|theater, that with a few Modern Repa|rations has all the Seats entire. There is something very Noble in it, tho' the high Wall and Corridors that went

round it are almost entirely ruined, and the Area is quite filled up to the lower Seat, which was formerly deep enough to let the Spectators see in Safety the Combats of the Wild Beasts and Gladi|ators. Since I have Claudian before me, I cannot forbear setting down the beautiful Description he has made of a Wild Beast newly brought from the Woods, and making its first Appearance in a full Am|phitheater.

Ut fera quae nuper montes amisit avitos, Altorumque exul nemorum, damnatur arenae Muneribus, commota ruit; vir murmure contra Hortatur, nixusque genu venabula tendit; Illa pavet strepitus, cuneosque erecta Theatri Despicit, & tanti miratur sibila vulgi.In. Ruf. L. 2.So rushes on his Foe the grisly Bear, That, banish'd from the Hills and bushy Brakes, His old Hereditary Haunts forsakes. Condemn'd the cruel Rabble to delight, His angry Keeper goads him to the Fight. Bent on his Knee, the Savage glares a|round, Scar'd with the mighty Croud's promi|scuous Sound;

Then rearing on his hinder Paws retires, And the vast hissing Multitude admires.

There are some other Antiquities in Verona, of which the Principal is the Ruin of a Triumphal Arch erected to Flaminius, where one sees old Doric Pil|lars without any Pedestal or Basis, as Vi|truvius has described them. I have not yet seen any Gardens in Italy worth ta|king notice of. The Italians fall as far short of the French in this Particular, as they excel them in their Palaces. It must however be said, to the Honour of the Italians, that the French took from them the first Plans of their Gardens, as well as of their Water-Works; so that their surpassing of them at present is to be attributed rather to the Greatness of their Riches, than the Excellence of their Taste. I saw the Terrace-Garden of Verona, that Travellers gene|rally mention. Among the Churches of Verona, that of St. George is the hand|somest: Its chief Ornament is the Mar|tyrdom of the Saint, drawn by Paul Veronese; as there are many other Pi|ctures about the Town by the same Hand. A Stranger is always shown the Tomb of Pope Lucius, who lyes buried in the Dome. I saw in the same Church

a Monument erected by the Publick to one of their Bishops: The Inscription says, that there was between him and his Maker, Summa Necessitudo, Summa Similitudo. The Italian Epitaphs are often more extravagant than those of o|ther Countries, as the Nation is more given to Compliment and Hyperbole. From Verona to Padua we travelled thro' a very pleasant Country: It is planted thick with Rows of White Mulberry-trees, that furnish Food for great Quan|tities of Silk-worms with their Leaves, as the Swine and Poultry consume the Fruit. The Trees themselves serve, at the same time, as so many Stays for their Vines, which hang all along like Garlands from Tree to Tree. Between the seve|ral Ranges lye Fields of Corn, which in these warm Countries ripens much bet|ter among the Mulberry Shades, than if it were exposed to the open Sun. This was one Reason why the Inhabitants of this Country, when I passed thro' it, were extreamly apprehensive of seeing Lombardy the Seat of War, which must have made miserable Havock among their Plantations; for it is not here as in the Corn Fields of Flanders, where the whole Product of the Place rises from Year to Year. We arrived so late at Vi|cenza,

that we had not time to take a full Sight of the Place. The next Day brought us to Padua. St. Anthony, who lived about Five Hundred Years ago, is the great Saint to whom they here pay their Devotions. He lyes buried in the Church that is Dedicated to him at pre|sent, tho' it was formerly Consecrated to the Blessed Virgin. It is extreamly magnificent, and very richly adorned. There are narrow Clefts in the Monu|ment that stands over him, where good Catholicks rub their Beads, and smell his Bones, which they say have in them a natural Perfume, tho' very like Apo|plectic Balsom; and what would make one suspect that they rub the Marble with it, it is observed that the Scent is stronger in the Morning than at Night. There are abundance of Inscriptions and Pictures hung up by his Votaries in se|veral Parts of the Church: For it is the way of those that are in any Signal Dan|ger to implore his Aid, and if they come off safe they call their Deliverance a Mi|racle, and perhaps hang up the Picture or Description of it in the Church. This Custom spoils the Beauty of several Ro|man Catholick Churches, and often co|vers the Walls with wretched Daub|ings, impertinent Inscriptions, Hands,

Legs, and Arms of Wax, with a Thou|sand idle Offerings of the same Nature.

They sell at Padua the Life of St. Anthony, which is read with great De|votion; the most remarkable Part of it is his Discourse to an Assembly of Fish. As the Audience and Sermon are both very extraordinary, I will set down the whole Passage at length.

Non curando gli Heretici il suo parlare, egli si come era alla riva del mare, dove shocca il fiume Marecchia, chiamò da parte di Dio li pesci, che venissero à sentir la sua santa parola. Et ecco che di subito sopra l'acque nuotando gran moltitudine di varii, & diversi pesci, e del mare, e del fiume, si unirono tutti, secondo le specie loro, e con bell ordine, quasi che di ragion capaci stati fossero, attenti, e cheti con gratioso spetta|colo s'accommodaro per sentir la parola di Dio. Ciò veduto il santo entro al cuor suo di dolcezza stillandosi, & per altretanta ma|raviglia inarcando le ciglia, della obedientia di queste irragionevoli creature così cominciò ••oro à parlare. Se bene in tutte le cose create (cari, & amati pesci) si scuopre la potenza, & providenza infinita di Dio, come nel Cielo, nel Sole, nella Luna, nelle stelle, in questo mondo inferiore, nell huomo, e nelle altre creature perfette, nondimeno in Voi particolarmente lampeggia e risplende la bontà

della maestà divina; perche se bone siete chi|amati Rettili, mezzi frà pietre, e bruti, confinati nelli profondi abissi delle ondeggiante acque: agitati sempre da flutti: mossi sem|pre da procelle; sordi al' udire, mutoli al parlare, & horridi al vedere; con tutto ciò in Voi maravigliosamente si scorge la Divina grandezza; e da voi si cavano li maggiori misterii della bontà di Dio, ne mai si parla di voi nella Scrittura Sacra, che non vi sia ascosto qualche profondo Sacramento; Cre|dete voi, che sia senza grandissimo misterio, che il primo dono fatto dall' onnipotente Id|dio all' huomo fosse di voi Pesci? Credete voi che non sia misterio in questo, che di tutte le cre|ature, e di tutti gl' animali si sien fatti sacrifi|cii, eccetto, che di voi Pesci? Credete, che non vi sia qualche secreto in questo, che Chri|sto nostro salvatore dall' agnelo pasquale in poi, si compiacque tanto del cibo di voi pesci? Credete, che sia à caso questo, che dovendo il Redentor del mondo, pagar, come huomo, il censo à Cesare la volesse trovaare nella boc|ca di un pesce? Tutti, tutti sono misteri è Sacramenti: perciò siete particolarmente ob|ligati a lodare il vostro Creatore: amati pe|sci di Dio havete rivevuto l'essere, la vita, il moto, e'l senso; per stanza vi hà dato il liquido elemento dell' Acqua, secondo che alla vostra naturale inclinatione conviene: ivi hà fatti amplissimi alberghi, stanze, caverne,

grotte, e secreti luogi à voi più che sale Regie, e regal Palazzi, cari, e grati; & per propria sede havete l'acqua, elemento dia|fano, transparente, e sempre lucido quasi cristallo, e verro; & dalle più basse, e pro|fonde vostre stanze scorgete ciò che sopra ac|qua ò si fa, ò nuota; havete gli occhi quasi di Lince, ò di Argo, & da causa non errante guidati, seguite ciò che vi giova, & aggrada; & fuggite ciò che vi nuoce, havete natural de sio di conservarvi secondo le spetie vostre, fase, oprate & caminate ove natura vi detta senza contrastro alcuno; nè algor d'inverno, nè calor di state vi offende, ò nuoce; siasi per sereno, ò turbato il cielo, che alli vostri humidi alberghi nè frutto, nè danno apporta; siasi pure abbondevole de suoi tesori, ò scar|sa de suoi frutti la terra, che a voi nulla giova; piova, tuoni, saetti, lampaggi, è su|bissi il mondo, che a voi ciò poco importa; verdeggi prinavera, scaldi la state, fruttifi|chi l' Autunno, & assideri li inverno, questo non vi rileva punto: ne trappassar del' hore nè correr de giorni, nè volar de mesi, ne fug|gir d'anni, ne mutar de tempi, ne cangiar de sta|gioni vi dan pensiero alcuno, ma sempre sicura, & tranquilla vita liatamente vivere: O quan|to, o quanto grande la Maestâ di Dio in voi si scuopre, O quanto mirabile la potenza sua; O quanto stupenda, & maravigliosa la sua provi|denza; poi che frà tutte le creature dell' univer|so

so voi solo non sentisti il diluvio universale dell' acque; nè provasti i danni, che egli face almon|do; e tutto questo ch' io ho detto dovrebbe muo|vervi à lodar Dio a ringratiare sua divina maestà di tanti e cosi singolari beneficii, che vi ha fatti, di tante gratie: che vi ha conferite, di tanti favori, di che vi ha fatti degna; per tanto, se non potete snodar la lingua à ringrati|ar il vostro Benefattore, & non sapete con pa|role esprimer le sue lodi, fatele segno di rive|renza almeno; chinatevi al suo nome; mo|strate nel modo che potete sembiante di gratitu|dine; rendetevi benevoli alla bontà sua, in quel miglior modo che potete; O sapete, non siate sconoscenti de suoi beneficii, & non siate in|grati de suoi favori. A questo dire, O mara|viglia grande, come si quelli pesci havessero havuto humano intelletto, e discorso, con gesti di profonda Humiltà, con riverenti sembi|anti di religione, chinarono la testa, blandiro co'l corpo, quasi approvando ciò che detto havea il benedetto padre S. Antonio.

When the Hereticks would not re|gard his Preaching, he betook himself to the Sea-shore, where the River Marecchia disembogues it self into the Adriatic. He here called the Fish to|gether in the Name of God, that they might hear his Holy Word. The Fish came swimming towards him in such vast Shoals, both from the Sea

and from the River, that the Surface of the Water was quite covered with their Multitudes. They quickly ran|ged themselves, according to their se|veral Species, into a very beautiful Congregation, and, like so many ra|tional Creatures, presented themselves before him to hear the Word of God. St. Antonio was so struck with the mi|raculous Obedience and Submission of these poor Animals, that he found a secret Sweetness distilling upon his Soul, and at last addressed himself to them in the following Words.

Altho' the Infinite Power and Pro|vidence of God (my dearly beloved Fish) discovers it self in all the Works of his Creation, as in the Heavens, in the Sun, in the Moon, and in the Stars, in this lower World, in Man, and in other perfect Creatures; never|theless the Goodness of the Divine Majesty shines out in you more emi|nently, and appears after a more par|ticular manner, than in any other Cre|ated Beings. For notwithstanding you are comprehended under the Name of Reptiles, partaking of a mid|dle Nature between Stones and Beasts, and Imprisoned in the Deep Abyss of Waters; notwithstanding you are

tost among Billows, thrown up and down by Tempests, deaf to Hearing, dumb to Speech, and terrible to be|hold: Notwithstanding, I say, these natural Disadvantages, the Divine Greatness shows it self in you after a very wonderful manner. In you are seen the mighty Mysteries of an In|finite Goodness. The Holy Scripture has always made use of you, as the Types and Shadows of some profound Sacrament.

Do you think that, without a My|stery, the first Present that God al|mighty made to Man, was of you, O ye Fishes? Do you think that, with|out a Mystery, among all Creatures and Animals which were appointed for Sacrifices, you only were excepted, O ye Fishes? Do you think there was nothing meant by our Saviour Christ, that next to the Paschal Lamb he took so much Pleasure in the Food of you, O ye Fishes? Do you think it was by meer Chance, that when the Redeemer of the World was to pay a Tribute to Caesar, he thought fit to find it in the Mouth of a Fish? These are all of them so many Mysteries and Sacraments, that oblige you in a more particular manner to the Praises of your Creator.

It is from God, my beloved Fish, that you have received Being, Life, Motion and Sense. It is he that has given you, in Compliance with your natural Inclinations, the whole World of Waters for your Habitation•• It is he that has furnished it with Lodgings, Chambers, Caverns, Grottoes, and such magnificent Retirements as are not to be met with in the Seats of Kings, or in the Palaces of Princes: You have the Water for your Dwelling, a clear transparent Element, brighter than Chrystal; you can see from its deepest Bottom every thing that passes on its Surface; you have the Eyes of a Lynx, or of an Argus; you are guided by a secret and unerring Principle, delight|ing in every thing that may be bene|ficial to you, and avoiding every thing that may be hurtful; you are carried on by a hidden Instinct to preserve your selves, and to propagate your Species; you obey, in all your Acti|ons, Works and Motions, the Di|ctates and Suggestions of Nature, without the least Repugnancy or Con|tradiction.

The Colds of Winter, and the Heats of Summer, are equally inca|pable of molesting you. A Serene or

a clouded Sky are indifferent to you. Let the Earth abound in Fruits, or be cursed with Scarcity, it has no Influ|ence on your Welfare. You live se|cure in Rains and Thunders, Light|nings and Earthquakes; you have no Concern in the Blossoms of Spring, or in the Glowings of Summer, in the Fruits of Autumn, or in the Frosts of Winter. You are not so|licitous about Hours or Days, Months or Years; the Variableness of the Weather, or the Change of Seasons.

In what dreadful Majesty, in what wonderful Power, in what amazing Providence did God Almighty distin|guish you among all the Species of Creatures that perished in the Univer|sal Deluge! You only were insensible of the Mischief that had laid waste the whole World.

All this, as I have already told you, ought to inspire you with Gratitude and Praise towards the Divine Maje|sty, that has done so great things for you, granted you such parti|cular Graces and Privileges, and heaped upon you so many distinguish|ing Favours. And since for all this you cannot employ your Tongues in the Praises of your Benefactor, and are

not provided with Words to express your Gratitude; make at least some Sign of Reverence; bow your selves at his Name; give some show of Gra|titude, according to the best of your Capacities; express your Thanks in the most becoming manner that you are able, and be not unmindful of all the Benefits he has bestowed upon you.

He had no sooner done speaking, but behold a Miracle! The Fish, as tho' they had been endued with Rea|son, bowed down their Heads with all the Marks of a profound Humility and Devotion, moving their Bodies up and down with a kind of Fond|ness, as approving what had been spo|ken by the Blessed Father, St. Antonio. The Legend adds, that after many Hereticks, who were present at the Miracle, had been converted by it, the Saint gave his Benediction to the Fish, and dismissed them.

Several other the like Stories of St. Antony are represented about his Monu|ment in a very fine Basso Relievo.

I could not forbear setting down the Titles given to St. Antony in one of the Tables that hangs up to him, as a To|ken of Gratitude from a poor Peasant, who fancied the Saint had saved him from breaking his Neck.

Sacratissimi pusionis Bethlehemitici Lilio candidiori Delicio, Seraphidum soli fulgidissimo, Celsissimo sacrae sapientiae tholo, Prodigiorum patratori Potentissimo, Mortis, Erroris, Calamitatis, Leprae, Dae|monis, Dispensatori, correctori, Liberatori, cura|tori, fugatori, Sancto, sapienti, pio, potenti, tremendo, Aegrotorum & Naufragantium Salvatori Praesentissimo, tutissimo. Membrorum restitutori, vinculorum con|fractori, Rerum perditarum Inventori stupendo, Periculorum omnium profligatori Magno, Mirabili, Ter Sancto, Antonio Paduano, Pientissimo post Deum ejusque Virgineam matrem Protectori & Sospitatori suo, &c.

The Custom of hanging up Limbs in Wax, as well as Pictures, is certainly de|rived from the old Heathens, who used, upon their Recovery, to make an Of|fering in Wood, Metal or Clay, of the Part that had been afflicted with a Di|stemper, to the Deity that delivered them. I have seen, I believe, every

Limb of a Human Body figured in Iron or Clay, which were formerly made on this Occasion, among the several Col|lections of Antiquities that have been shown me in Italy. The Church of St. Justina, designed by Palladio, is the most handsom, luminous, disencumbered Build|ing in the Inside that I have ever seen, and is esteemed by many Artists one of the finest Works in Italy. The long Nef consists of a Row of Five Cupola's, the cross-one has on each side a single Cu|pola deeper and broader than the others. The Martyrdom of St. Justina hangs o|ver the Altar, and is a Piece of Paul Ve|ronese. In the great Town-Hall of Pa|dua stands a Stone superscribed Lapis Vi|tuperii. Any Debtor that will swear him|self not worth Five Pound, and is set by the Bailifs thrice with his bare Buttocks on this Stone in a full Hall, clears him|self of any farther Prosecution from his Creditors; but this is a Punishment that no Body has submitted to these Four and Twenty Years. The University of Pa|dua is of late much more regular than it was formerly, tho' it is not yet safe walking the Streets after Sun-set. There is at Padua a Manufacture of Cloth, which has brought very great Revenues into the Republick. At present the

English have not only gained upon the Venetians in the Levant, which used chiefly to be supplyed from this Manu|facture, but have great Quantities of their Cloth in Venice it self; few of the Nobility wearing any other sort, not|withstanding the Magistrate of the Pomps is obliged by his Office to see that no Body wears the Cloth of a For|reign Country. Our Merchants indeed are forced to make use of some Artifice to get these Prohibited Goods into Port. What they here show for the Ashes of Livy and Antenor is disregarded by the best of their own Antiquaries.

The pretended Tomb of Antenor put me in Mind of the latter part of Vir|gil's Description, which gives us the O|riginal of Padua.

Antenor potuit mediis elapsus Achivis Illyricos penetrare sinus, atque intimae tutus Regna Liburnorum, & fontem superare Ti|mavi: Unde per ora novem vasto cum murmure montis It mare praeruptum, & pelago premit arva sonanti; Hic tamen ille urbem Patavi, sedesque locavit

Teucrorum, & genti nomen dedit, armaque fixit Troïa: nunc placidâ compostus pace quiescit.Ae. 1.Antenor, from the midst of Grecian Hosts, Could pass secure; and pierce th' Illy|rian Coasts, Where rolling down the steep Timavus raves, And through Nine Channels disem|bogues his Waves. At length he founded Padua's happy Seat, And gave his Trojans a secure Retreat: There fix'd their Arms, and there re|new'd their Names; And there in quiet lyes.—Dryden.

From Padua I went down to the Ri|ver Brent in the Ordinary Ferry, which brought me in a Day's time to Venice.