Remarks on several parts of Italy, &c. in the years 1701, 1702, 1703:

TOWNS Within the Neighbourhood of ROME.

_I Spent Three or Four Days on Tivoli, Frescati, Palestri|na and Albano. In our way to Tivoli I saw the Rivulet of Solforata, formerly call'd Albula, and smelt the Stench that arises from its Waters some time before I saw them. Martial mentions this offensive Smell in an Epigram of the Fourth Book, as he does the Rivulet it self in the First.

Quod siccae redolet lacus lacunae, Crudarum nebulae quod Albularum,L. 4. Ep. 4.The drying Marshes such a Stench con|vey, Such the rank Steams of reeking Albula.

Itur ad Herculeae gelidas quà Tiburis ar|ces, Canaque sulphureis Albula fumat aquis.L. 1. Ep. 5.As from high Rome to Tivoli you go, Where Albula's sulphureous Waters flow.

The little Lake that gives Rise to this River, with its floating Islands, is one of the most extraordinary natural Curi|osities about Rome. It lyes in the very Flat of Campania, and as it is the Drain of these Parts, 'tis no Wonder that it is so impregnated with Sulphur. It has at Bottom so thick a Sediment of it, that upon throwing in a Stone the Wa|ter boils for a considerable time over the Place which has been stirr'd up. At the same time are seen little Flakes of Scurfe rising up, that are probably the Parts which compose the Islands, for they of|ten mount of themselves, tho' the Wa|ter is not troubled.

I question not but this Lake was for|merly much larger than it is at present, and that the Banks have grown over it by degrees, in the same manner as the Islands have been form'd on it. Nor is it improbable but that, in Process of

Time, the whole Surface of it may be crusted over, as the Islands enlarge them|selves, and the Banks close in upon them. All about the Lake, where the Ground is dry, we found it to be hollow by the Trampling of our Horses Feet. I could not discover the least Traces of the Si|byls Temple and Grove, which stood on the Borders of this Lake. Tivoli is seen at a distance lying along the Brow of a Hill. Its Situation has given Horace occasion to call it Tibur Supinum, as Vir|gil perhaps for the same Reason entitles it Superbum. The Villa de Medicis with its Water-Works, the Cascade of the Teverone, and the Ruins of the Sibyls Tem|ple (of which Vignola has made a little Copy at Peters de Montorio) are descri|bed in every Itinerary. I must confess I was most pleased with a beautiful Pro|spect that none of them have mentio|ned, which lyes at about a Mile di|stance from the Town. It opens on one Side into the Roman Campania, where the Eye loses it self on a smooth spaci|ous Plain. On the other Side is a more broken and interrupted Scene, made up of an infinite Variety of Inequalities and Shadowings, that naturally arise from an agreeable Mixture of Hills, Groves and Vallies. But the most enlivening Part

of all is the River Teverone, which you see at about a Quarter of a Mile's di|stance throwing it self down a Preci|pice, and falling by several Cascades from one Rock to another, 'till it gains the Bottom of the Valley, where the Sight of it would be quite lost, did not it sometimes discover it self thro' the Breaks and Openings of the Woods that grow about it. The Roman Painters often work upon this Landskip, and I am apt to believe that Horace had his Eye upon it in those Two or Three beautiful Tou|ches which he has given us of these Seats. The Teverone was formerly call'd the Anio.

Me nec tam patiens Lacedaemon, Nec tam Larissae percussit campus opimae, Quàm domus Albuneae resonantis, Et praeceps Anio, et Tiburni lacus, et uda Mobilibus pomaria rivis.L. 1. O. 7.Not fair Larissa's fruitful Shore, Nor Lacedaemon charms me more, Than high Albunea's airy Walls Resounding with her Water-falls, And Tivoli's delightful Shades, And Anio rolling in Caseades,

That through the flow'ry Meadows glides, And all the beauteous Scene divides.

I remember Monsieur Dacier explains Mobilibus by Ductilibus, and believes that the Word relates to the Conduits, Pipes, and Canals that were made to distribute the Waters up and down, according to the Pleasure of the Owner. But any one who sees the Teverone must be of a|nother Opinion, and conclude it to be one of the most moveable Rivers in the World, that has its Stream broken by such a Multitude of Cascades, and is so often shifted out of one Channel into a|nother. After a very turbulent and noi|sie Course of several Miles among the Rocks and Mountains, the Teverone falls into the Valley before-mentioned, where it recovers its Temper, as it were, by little and little, and after many Turns and Windings glides peaceably into the Tiber. In which Sense we are to under|stand Silius Italicus's Description, to give it its proper Beauty.

Sulphureis gelidus quà serpit leniter un|dis, Ad genitorem Anio labens sine murmure Tibrim.

Here the loud Anio's boist'rous Clamours cease, That with submissive Murmurs glides in Peace To his old Sire the Tiber—

At Frescati I had the Satisfaction of seeing the First Sketch of Versailles in the Walks and Water-Works. The Prospect from it was doubtless much more delightful formerly, when the Cam|pania was set thick with Towns, Villas and Plantations. Cicero's Tusculum was at a Place call'd Grotto Ferrate, about Two Miles off this Town, tho' most of the Modern Writers have fix'd it to Frescati. Nardini says, there was found among the Ruins at Grotto Ferrate a Piece of Sculpture which Cicero himself mentions in one of his familiar Epistles. In going to Frescati we had a fair View of Mount Algido.

On our Way to Palaestrina we saw the Lake Regillus, famous for the Ap|parition of Castor and Pollux, who were here seen to give their Horses Drink af|ter the Battel between the Romans and the Son-in-Law of Tarquin. At some distance from it we had a View of the Lacus Gabinus, that is much larger than

the former. We left the Road for a|bout half a Mile to see the Sources of a Modern Aqueduct. It is entertaining to observe how the several little Springs and Rills, that break out of the Sides of the Mountain, are glean'd up, and conveyed thro' little covered Channels into the main Hollow of the Aqueduct. It was certainly very lucky for Rome, seeing it had occasion for so many A|queducts, that there chanced to be such a Range of Mountains within its Neigh|bourhood. For by this means they could take up their Water from what height they pleased, without the Expence of such an Engine as that of Marli. Thus the Claudian Aqueduct ran Thirty Eight Miles, and sunk after the Proportion of Five Foot and a half every Mile, by the Advantage only of a high Source and the low Situation of Rome. Palae|strina stands very high, like most other Towns in Italy, for the Advantage of the cool Breezes, for which Reason Vir|gil calls it Altum, and Horace, Frigidum Praeneste. Statius calls it Praeneste Sa|crum, because of the Famous Temple of Fortune that stood in it. There are still great Pillars of Granite, and other Fragments of this ancient Temple. But the most considerable Remnant of it is

a very beautiful Mosaic Pavement, the finest I have ever seen in Marble. The Parts are so well join'd together, that the whole Piece looks like a continued Picture. There are in it the Figures of a Rhinoceros, of Elephants, and of se|veral other Animals, with little Land|skips which look very lively and well painted, tho' they are made out of the natural Colours and Shadows of the Marble. I do not remember ever to have met with any old Roman Mosaic, composed of little Pieces of Clay half vitrify'd, and prepared at the Glass-Hou|ses, which the Italians call Smalte. These are much in use at present, and may be made of what Colour and Figure the Work-man pleases, which is a Modern Improvement of the Art, and enables those who are employ'd in it to make much finer Pieces of Mosaic than they did formerly.

In our Excursion to Albano we went as far as Nemi, that takes its Name from the Nemus Dianae. The whole Coun|try thereabouts is still over-run with Woods and Thickets. The Lake of Nemi lyes in a very deep Bottom, so surrounded on all Sides with Mountains and Groves, that the Surface of it is ne|ver ruffled with the least Breath of

Wind, which perhaps, together with the Clearness of its Waters, gave it for|merly the Name of Diana's Looking-Glass.

—Speculumque Dianae.Virg.

Prince Caesarini has a Palace at Jen|sano, very near Nemi, in a pleasant Situ|ation, and set off with many beautiful Walks. In our Return from Jensano to Albano we passed through la Ricca, the Aricia of the Ancients, Horace's First Stage from Rome to Brundisi. There is nothing at Albano so remarkable as the Prospect from the Capucin's Garden, which for the Extent and Variety of pleasing Incidents is, I think, the most delightful one that I ever saw. It takes in the whole Campania, and terminates in a full View of the Mediterranean. You have a Sight at the same time of the Alban Lake, which lyes just by in an Oval Figure of about Seven Miles round, and, by reason of the continued Circuit of high Mountains that encom|pass it, looks like the Area of some vast Amphitheater. This, together with the several green Hills and naked Rocks, within the Neighbourhood, makes the most agreeable Confusion imaginable.

Albano keeps up its Credit still for Wine, which perhaps would be as good as it was anciently did they preserve it to as great an Age; but as for Olives there are now very few here, tho' they are in great plenty at Tivoli.

—Albani pretiosa senectus.Juv. Sat. 13. Cras bibet Albanis aliquid de montibus aut de Setinis, cujus patriam titulumque Sene|ctus Delevit multâ veteris fuligine testae. Id. Sat. 5.Perhaps to Morrow he may change his Wine, And drink old sparkling Alban, or Se|tine, Whose Title, and whose Age, with Mould o'er-grown, The good old Cask for ever keeps un|known.Mr. Bowles.

—Palladiae seu collibus uteris Albae.Mar. L. 5. E. 1. Albanae—Olivae.Id. L. 9. Ep. 16.

The Places mention'd in this Chap|ter were all of them formerly the cool Retirements of the Romans, where they

used to hide themselves among the Woods and Mountains, during the excessive Heats of their Summer; as Bajae was the general Winter Rendezvous.

Jam terras volucremque polum fuga veris Aquosi Laxat, et Icariis coelum latratibus urit. Ardua jam densae rarescunt moenia Romae: Hos Praeneste sacrum, nemus hos glaciale Dianae, Algidus aut horrens, aut Tuscula protegit Umbra, Tiburis hi lucos, Anienaque frigora cap|tant.Sil. 4. 1. Albanos quoque Tusculosque colles Et quodcunque jacet sub urbe frigus. Fidenas veteres, brevesque Rubras, Et quod Virgineo cruore gaudet Annae pomiferum nemus Perennae.M. L. 1. E. 123.All shun the raging Dog-Star's sultry Heat, And from the half-unpeopled Town retreat: Some hid in Nemi's gloomy Forests lye, To Palestrina some for Shelter fly; Others to catch the Breeze of breathing Air, To Tusculum or Algido repair;

Or in moist Tivoli's Retirements find A cooling Shade, and a refreshing Wind.

On the contrary, at present, Rome is never fuller of Nobility than in Sum|mer time; for the Country Towns are so infested with unwholsome Vapours, that they dare not trust themselves in them while the Heats last. There is no question but the Air of the Campania would be now as healthful as it was for|merly, were there as many Fires burn|ing in it, and as many Inhabitants to manure the Soil. Leaving Rome about the latter end of October, in my Way to Sienna, I lay the first Night at a little Village in the Territories of the ancient Veii.

Haec tum nomina erant nunc sunt sine no|mine Campi.

The Ruins of their Capital City are at present so far lost, that the Geographers are not able to determine exactly the Place where they once stood: So lite|rally is that noble Prophecy of Lucan fulfill'd, of this and other Places of Latium.

—Gentes Mars iste futuras

Obruet, et populos aevi venientis in orbem Erepto natale feret, tunc omne Latinum Fabula nomen erit: Gabios, Veïosque, Co|ramque, Pulvere vix tectae poterunt monstrare ruinae, Albanosque lares, Laurentinosque penates Rus vacuum, quod non habitet nisi noct•• coactâ Invitus—L. 7.Succeeding Nations by the Sword shall die, And swallow'd up in dark Oblivion lye; Almighty Latium with her Cities crown'd, Shall like an antiquated Fable sound; The Veïan and the Gabian Tow'rs shall fall, And one promiscuous Ruin cover all, Nor, after length of Years, a Stone be|tray The Place where once the very Ruins lay: High Alba's Walls, and the Lavinian Strand, (A lonely Desart, and an empty Land) Shall scarce afford, for needful Hours of Rest, A single House to their benighted Guest.

We here saw the Lake Bacca, that gives Rise to the Cremera, on whose Banks the Fabii were slain.

Tercentum numerabat avos, quos turbine Martis, Abstulit una Dies, cùm fors non aequa la|bori Patricio Cremerae maculavit sanguine ri|pas.Sil. It. L. 1.Fabius a num'rous Ancestry could tell, Three Hundred Heroes that in Battel fell, Near the fam'd Cremera's disast'rous Flood, That ran polluted with Patrician Blood.

We saw afterwards, in the Progress of our Voyage, the Lakes of Vico and Bolsena. The last is reckon'd One and Twenty Miles in Circuit, and is plenti|fully stock'd with Fish and Fowl. There are in it a couple of Islands, that are perhaps the Two floating Isles menti|oned by Pliny, with that improbable Circumstance of their appearing some|times like a Circle, and sometimes like a Triangle, but never like a Quadran|gle. It is easie enough to conceive how they might become fix'd, tho' they once floated; and it is not very credi|ble, that the Naturalist could be decei|ved in his Account of a Place that lay,

as it were, in the Neighbourhood of Rome. At one End of this Lake stands Montefiascone, the Habitation of Virgil's Aequi Falisci, Aen. 7. and on the Side of it the Town of the Volsinians, now call'd Bolsena.

Aut positis nemorosa inter juga Volsiniis.Juv. Sat. 3. —Volsinium stood Cover'd with Mountains, and enclos'd with Wood.

I saw in the Church-yard of Bolsena an antique Funeral Monument (of that kind which they call'd a Sarcophagus) very entire, and what is particular, En|graven on all Sides with a curious Re|presentation of a Bacchanal. Had the Inhabitants observed a couple of lewd Figures at one End of it, they would not have thought it a proper Ornament for the Place where it now stands. Af|ter having travell'd hence to Aquapen|dente, that stands in a wonderful pleasant Situation, we came to the little Brook which separates the Pope's Dominions from the Great Duke's. The Frontier Castle of Radicofani is seated on the highest Mountain in the Country, and is as well fortify'd as the Situation of

the Place will permit. We here found the natural Face of the Country quite changed from what we had been enter|tain'd with in the Pope's Dominions. For instead of the many beautiful Scenes of green Mountains and fruitful Vallies, that we had been presented with for some Days before, we saw now nothing but a wild naked Prospect of Rocks and Hills, worn on all Sides with Gutters and Channels, and not a Tree or Shrub to be met with in a vast Circuit of several Miles. This Savage Prospect put me in Mind of the Italian Proverb, that The Pope has the Flesh, and the Great Duke the Bones of Italy. Among a large Extent of these Barren Mountains I saw but a single Spot that was cultivated, on which there stood a Convent.