Remarks on several parts of Italy, &c. in the years 1701, 1702, 1703:

Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, Loretto, &c. To ROME.

_FROM Rimini to Loretto the Towns of Note are Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia and Ancona. Fano received its Name from the Fane or Temple of For|tune that stood in it. One may still see the Triumphal Arch erected there to Augustus: It is indeed very much de|fac'd by Time, but the Plan of it, as it stood entire with all its Inscriptions, is neatly cut upon the Wall of a neigh|bouring Building. In each of these Towns is a beautiful Marble Fountain, where the Water runs continually thro' several little Spouts, which looks very refreshing in these hot Countries, and gives a great Coolness to the Air about them. That of Pesaro is handsomly de|signed. Ancona is much the most con|siderable

of these Towns. It stands on a Promontory, and looks more beauti|ful at a distance than when you are in it. The Port was made by Trajan, for which he has a Triumphal Arch e|rected to him by the Sea-side. The Marble of this Arch looks very white and fresh, as being exposed to the Winds and Salt Sea-Vapours, that by continu|ally fretting it preseves it self from that mouldy Colour, which others of the same Materials have contracted. Tho' the Italians and Voyage-Writers call these of Rimini, Fano, and Ancona Tri|umphal Arches, there was probably some Distinction made among the Ro|mans between such Honorary Arches e|rected to Emperors, and those that were rais'd to them on the Account of a Victory, which are properly Trium|phal Arches. This at Ancona was an In|stance of Gratitude to Trajan for the Port he had made there, as the two o|thers I have mention'd were probably for some Reason of the same Nature. One may however observe the Wisdom of the ancient Romans, who to encou|rage their Emperors in their Inclina|tion of doing good to their Coun|try, gave the same Honours to the great Actions of Peace, which turn'd to the

Advantage of the Publick, as to those of War. This is very remarkable in the Medals that were stamp'd on the same Occasions. I remember to have seen one of Galba's with a Triumphal Arch on the Reverse, that was made by the Senate's Order for his having remitted a Tax. R. XXXX. REMISSA. S. C. The Medal which was made for Trajan in Remembrance of his Benificence to Ancona is very common. The Reverse has on it a Port with a Chain running a-cross it, and betwixt them both a Boat with this Inscription, S. P. Q. R. OP|TIMO PRINCIPI. S. C.

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XXXX REMISSA S C

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S P Q R OPTIMO PRINCEPI S C

I know Fabretti would fain ascribe this Medal to another Occasion, but Bellorio, in his Additions to Angeloni, has sufficiently refuted all he says on that Subject.

At Loretto I enquir'd for the En|glish Jesuits Lodgings, and on the Stair-Case that leads to 'em I saw seve|ral Pictures of such as had been Execu|ted in England, as the Two Garnets, Old-Corn, and others to the Number of Thirty. Whatever were their Crimes, the Inscription says they suffer'd for their Religion, and some of 'em are represent|ed lying under such Tortures as are not in use among us. The Martyrs of 1679 are set by themselves, with a Knife stuck in the Bosom of each Figure, to signify that they were Quarter'd.

The Riches in the Holy House and Treasury are surprizingly great, and as much surpass'd my Expectation as other Sights have generally fallen short of it. Silver can scarce find an Admission, and Gold it self looks but poorly among such an incredible number of precious Stones. There will be, in a few Ages more, the Jewels of the greatest Value in Europe, if the Devotion of its Princes continues in its present Fervour. The last Offer|ing was made by the Queen Dowager of Poland, and cost her 18000 Crowns. Some have wonder'd that the Turk ne|ver attacks this Treasury, since it lyes so near the Sea-shore, and is so weakly guarded. But besides that he has at|tempted it formerly with no Success, it is certain the Venetians keep too watch|ful an Eye over his Motions at present, and would never suffer him to enter the Adriatic. It would indeed be an easie thing for a Christian Prince to surprize it, who has Ships still passing to and fro without Suspicion, especially if he had a Party in the Town, disguis'd like Pil|grims, to secure a Gate for him; for there have been sometimes to the Num|ber of 100000 in a Day's time, as it is generally reported. But 'tis probable the Veneration for the Holy House, and

the Horror of an Action that would be resented by all the Catholick Princes of Europe, will be as great a Security to the Place as the strongest Fortification. It is indeed an amazing thing to see such a prodigious Quantity of Riches lye dead, and untouch'd in the midst of so much Poverty and Misery as reign on all sides of 'em. There is no question, how|ever, but the Pope would make use of these Treasures in case of any great Cala|mity that should endanger the Holy See; as an unfortunate War with the Turk, or a powerful League among the Protestants. For I can't but look on those vast Heaps of Wealth, that are amass'd together in so many Religious Places of Italy, as the hidden Reserves and Magazines of the Church, that she would open on any pressing Occasion for her last Defence and Preservation. If these Riches were all turn'd into current Coin, and em|ploy'd in Commerce, they would make Italy the most flourishing Country in Europe. The Case of the Holy House is nobly design'd, and executed by the great Masters of Italy, that flourish'd about a hundred Years ago. The Sta|tues of the Sibyls are very finely wrought, each of 'em in a different Air and Po|sture, as are likewise those of the Pro|phets

underneath 'em. The Roof of the Treasury is painted with the same kind of Device. There stands at the up|per End of it a large Crucifix very much esteem'd, the Figure of our Saviour re|presents him in his last Agonies of Death, and amidst all the Ghastliness of the Vi|sage has something in it very amiable. The Gates of the Church are said to be of Corinthian Brass, with many Scripture Stories rising on 'em in Basso Relievo. The Pope's Statue, and the Fountain by it, would make a noble Show in a Place less beautified with so many other Productions of Art. The Spicery, the Cellar and its Furniture, the great Re|venues of the Convent, with the Story of the Holy House, are too well known to be here insisted upon.

Whoever were the first Inventors of this Imposture, they seem to have taken the hint of it from the Veneration that the old Romans paid to the Cottage of Romulus, which stood on Mount Capitol, and was repair'd from time to time as it fell to decay. Virgil has given a pret|ty Image of this little thatch'd Palace, that represents it standing in Manlius's Time, 327 Years after the Death of Romulus.

In summo custos Tarpeiae Manlius areis Stabat pro templo, & capitolia celsa tene|bat: Romuleoque recens horrebat Regia culmo.Aen. L. 8.High on a Rock Heroick Manlius stood To guard the Temple, and the Temple's God: Then Rome was poor, and there you might behold The Palace thatch'd with Straw.Dryden.

From Loretto, in my way to Rome, I pass'd thro' Recanati, Macorata, Tolenti|no and Foligni. In the last there is a Convent of Nuns call'd la Contessa, that has in the Church an incomparable Ma|donna of Raphel. At Spoletto, the next Town on the Road, are some Antiqui|ties. The most remarkable is an Aquae|duct of a Gothic Structure, that conveys the Water from Mount St. Francis to Spoletto, which is not to be equall'd for its height by any other in Europe. They reckon from the Foundation of the low|est Arch to the Top of it 230 Yards. In my way hence to Terni I saw the River Clitumnus, celebrated by so many of the Poets for a particular Quality in its Waters of making Cattle white that

drink of it. The Inhabitants of that Country have still the same Opinion of it, as I found upon Enquiry, and have a great many Oxen of a whitish Colour to confirm 'em in it. It is probable this Breed was first settled in the Country, and continuing still the same Species, has made the Inhabitants impute it to a wrong Cause; tho' they may as well fancy their Hogs turn black for some Reason of the same Nature, because there are none in Italy of any other Breed. The River Clitumnus, and Mevania that stood on the Banks of it, are famous for the Herds of Victims with which they furnish'd all Italy.

Qua formosa suo Clitumnus flumina luco Integit, & Niveos abluit unda boves.Prop. L. 2. Hinc Albi Clitumne greges, & maxima Taurus, Victima, saepe tuo perfusi flumine saero Romanos ad Templa Deûm duxere trium|phos.Geor. 2. Virg.There flows Clitumnus through the flow'ry Plain; Whose Waves, for Triumphs after pro|sp'rous War, The Victim Ox, and Snowy Sheep pre|pare.

—Patulis Clitumnus in Arvis Candentes gelido profundit flumine Tauros.Sil Ital. L. 2. —Tauriferis ubi se Mevania campis Explicat—Luc. L. 1. —Atque ubi latis Projecta in campis nebulas exhalat inertes, Et sedet ingentem pascens Mevania tau|rum, Dona Jovi—Id. L. 6. —Nec si vacuet Mevania valles, Aut praestent niveos Clitumna novalia Tau|ros. Sufficiam—Stat. Syl. L. 1. Pinguior Hispullâ traheretur taurus & ipsâ Mole piger, non finitimâ nutritus in herbâ, Laeta sed ostendens Clitumni pascua sanguis Iret, & a grandi cervix ferienda Ministro.Juv. Sat. 12.A Bull high fed should fall the Sacrifice, One of Hispulla's huge prodigious Size. Not one of those our neighb'ring Pa|stures feed, But of Clitumnus whitest Sacred Breed: The lively Tincture of whose gushing Blood Should clearly prove the Richness of his Food;

A Neck so strong, so large, as would command The speeding Blow of some uncommon Hand.Mr. Congreve.

I shall afterwards have occasion to quote Claudian.

Terni is the next Town in Course, formerly call'd Interamna, for the same Reason that a part of Asia was nam'd Mesopotamia. We enter at the Gate of the Three Monuments, so call'd because there stood near in a Monument erected to Tacitus the Historian, with two others to the Emperors Tacitus and Florianus, all of them Natives of the Place. These were a few Years ago Demolish'd by Thunder, and the Fragments of them are in the Hands of some Gentlemen of the Town. Near the Dome I was shown a square Marble, inserted in the Wall, with the following Inscription.

Saluti perpetuae Augustae Libertatique Publicae Populi RomaniGenio municipi Anno post Interamnam Conditam. D. CC. IV. Ad Cnejum DomitiumAhenobarbum.—Coss. providentiae Ti. Caesaris

Augusti nati ad Aeternitatem Romani nomi|nis sublato hoste perniciosissimo P. R. Fau|stus Titius Liberalis VI. vir iterum P. S. F. C. that is, pecunia sua fieri curavit.

This Stone was probably set up on occasion of the Fall of Sejanus. After the Name of Ahenobarbus there is a little Furrow in the Marble, but so smooth and well polish'd, that I should not have taken notice of it had not I seen Coss. at the end of it, by which it is plain there was once the Name of another Consul, which has been industriously razed out. Lucias Aruncius Camillus Scribonianus was Consul under the Reign of * 1.1 Tiberius, and was afterwards put to Death for a Conspiracy that he had form'd against the Emperor Claudius; at which time it was order'd that his Name and Consulate should be effaced out of all publick Registers and Inscrip|tions. It is not therefore improbable, that it was this long Name which fill'd up the Gap I am now mentioning. There are near this Monument the Ru|ins of an ancient Theatre, with some of the Caves entire. I saw among the Ru|ins

an old Heathen Altar, with this Par|ticularity in it, that it is hollow'd, like a Dish, at one End; but it was not this End on which the Sacrifice was laid, as one may guess from the Make of the Festoon, that runs round the Altar, and is inverted when the Hollow stands uppermost. In the same Yard, among the Rubbish of the Theatre, lye Two Pillars, the one of Granate, and the other of a very beautiful Marble. I went out of my way to see the Famous Cascade about Three Miles from Terni. It it form'd by the Fall of the River Velino, which Virgil mentions in the Seventh Aeneid—Rosed rura Velini.

The Channel of this River lyes very high, and is shaded on all sides by a Green Forest, made up of several kinds of Trees that preserve their Verdure all the Year. The neighbouring Mountains are co|ver'd with them, and by reason of their height are more expos'd to the Dews and drizzling Rains than any of the adjacent Parts, which gives occasion to Virgil's Ro|sea rura, (Dewy Countries.) The River runs extreamly rapid before its Fall, and rushes down a Precipice of a Hundred Yards high. It throws it self into the Hol|low of a Rock, which has probably been

worn by such a constant Fall of Water. It is impossible to see the Bottom on which it breaks for the Thickness of the Mist that rises from it, which looks at a Distance like Clouds of Smoak as|cending from some vast Furnace, and distils in perpetual Rains on all the Pla|ces that lye near it. I think there is something more astonishing in this Cas|cade, than in all the Water-Works of Versailles, and could not but wonder when I first saw it, that I had never met with it in any of the old Poets, especially in Claudian, who makes his Emperor Honorius. go out of his way to see the River Nar which runs just be|low it, and yet does not mention what would have been so great an Embellish|ment to his Poem. But at present I don't in the least question, notwithstanding the Opinion of some Learned Men to the contrary, that this is the Gulf thro' which Virgil's Alecto shoots her self into Hell: for the very Place, the great Re|putation of it, the Fall of Waters, the Woods that encompass it, with the Smoak and Noise that arise from it, are all pointed at in the Description. Per|haps he would not mention the Name of the River, because he has done it in the Verses that precede. We may add

to this, that the Cascade is not far off that part of Italy which has been call'd Italiae Meditullium.

Est locus Italiae medio, sub montibus altis, Nobilis, & famâ multis memoratus in oris, Amsancti valles, densis hunc frondibus a|trum Urget utrinque latus nemoris, medioque fra|gosus Dat sonitum saxis & torto vortice torrens: Hic specus horrendum, & saevi spiracula Ditis Monstrantur, ruptoque ingens Acheronte vo|rago Pestiferas aperit fauces, queis condita E|rinnys Invisum Numen terras coelumque levabat.Aen. 7.In midst of Italy, well known to Fame, There lies a Vale, Amsanctus is the Name, Below the lofty Mounts: On either side Thick Forests the forbidden Entrance hide: Full in the Centre of the Sacred Wood An Arm ariseth of the Stygian Flood; Which falling from on high, with bel|lowing Sound Whirls the black Waves and ratling Stones around.

Here Pluto pants for Breath from out his Cell, And opens wide the grinning Jaws of Hell. To this Infernal Gate the Fury flies, Here hides her hated Head, and frees the lab'ring Skies.Dryden.

It was indeed the most proper Place in the World for a Fury to make her Exit, after she had fill'd a Nation with Di|stractions and Alarms; and I believe e|very Reader's Imagination is pleas'd, when he sees the angry Goddess thus sinking, as it were, in a Tempest, and plunging herself into Hell, amidst such a Scene of Horror and Confusion.

The River Velino, after having found its way out from among the Rocks where it falls, runs into the Nera. The Channel of this last River is white with Rocks, and the Surface of it, for a long Space, cover'd with Froth and Bubbles; for it runs all along upon the Fret, and is still breaking against the Stones that oppose its Passage: So that for these Reasons, as well as for the Mixture of Sulphur in its Waters, it is very well de|scrib'd by Virgil, in that Verse which mentions these Two Rivers in their old Roman Names.

Tartaream intendit vocem, quà protinus omne Contremuit nemus, & sylvae into••••ere pro|fundae, Audiit & longè Triviae lacus, audiit amnis Sulphureâ Nar albus aquâ, fontesque Ve|lini.Aen. 7.The Sacred Lake of Trivia from afar, The Veline Fountains, and Sulphureous Nar, Shake at the Baleful Blast, the Signal of the War.Dryden.

He makes the Sound of the Fury's Trum|pet run up the Nera to the very Sour|ces of Velino, which agrees extreamly well with the Situation of these Rivers. When Virgil has mark'd any particular Quality in a River, the other Poets sel|dom fail of Copying after him.

—Sulphureus Nar.Auson. —Narque albescentibus undis In Tibrim properans—Sil. It. L. 8. —Et Nar vitiatus odoro Sulfure—Claud. de Pr. & Olyb. Cons.—The Hoary Nar Corrupted with the Stench of Sulphur flows, And into Tiber's Streams th' infected Cur|rent throws.

From this River our next Town on the Road receives the Name of Narni. I saw hereabouts nothing remarkable ex|cept Augustus's Bridge, that stands half a Mile from the Town, and is one of the stateliest Ruins in Italy. It has no Cement, and looks as firm as one entire Stone. There is an Arch of it unbro|ken, the broadest that I have ever seen, tho' by reason of its great height it does not appear so. The middle one was still much broader. They join together Two Mountains, and belong'd, without doubt, to the Bridge that Martial men|tions, tho' Mr. Ray takes 'em to be the Remains of an ancient Aquaeduct.

Sed jam parce mihi, nec abutere Narnia Quinto, Perpetuo liceat sic tibi ponte frui!L. 7.Preserve my better Part, and spare my Friend; So, Narni, may thy Bridge for ever stand.

From Narni I went to Otricoli, a very mean little Village, that stands where the Castle of Ocriculum did formerly. I turn'd about half a Mile out of the Road to see the Ruins of the old Ocriculum,

that lye near the Banks of the Tiber. There are still scatter'd Pillars and Pe|destals, huge Pieces of Marble half bu|ry'd in the Earth, Fragments of Tow|ers, Subterraneous Vaults, Bathing Pla|ces, and the like Marks of its ancient Magnificence.

In my way to Rome, seeing a high Hill standing by it self in the Campania, I did not question but it had a Classic Name, and upon Enquiry found it to be Mount Soracte. The Italians at present call it, because its Name begins with an S. St. Oreste.

The Fatigue of our crossing the Ap|penines, and of our whole Journey from Loretto to Rome, was very agreeably re|liev'd by the Variety of Scenes we pass'd thro'. For not to mention the rude Prospect of Rocks rising one above another, of the deep Gutters worn in the Sides of 'em by Torrents of Rain and Snow-Water, or the long Channels of Sand winding about their Bottoms, that are sometimes filled with so many Rivers: We saw, in Six Days Travel|ling, the several Seasons of the Year in their Beauty and Perfection. We were sometimes Shivering on the Top of a bleak Mountain, and a little while af|ter Basking in a warm Valley, covered

with Violets and Almond-trees in Blos|som, the Bees already swarming over 'em, tho' but in the Month of February. Sometimes our Road led us thro' Groves of Olives, or by Gardens of O|ranges, or into several hollow Apart|ments among the Rocks and Mountains, that look like so many natural Green-Houses; as being always shaded with a great Variety of Trees and Shrubs that never lose their Verdure.

I shall say nothing of the Via Flami|nia, which has been spoken of by most of the Voyage-Writers that have pass'd it, but shall set down Claudian's Ac|count of the Journey that Honorius made from Ravenna to Rome, which lyes most of it in the fame Road that I have been describing.

—Antiquae muros egressa Ravennae Signa movet, jamque or a Padi portusque relinquit Flumineos, certis ubi legibus advena Nereus Aestuat, & pronas puppes nunc amne Se|cundo Nunc redeunte vehit, nudataque littora fluctu Deserit, Oceani lunaribus aemula damnis; Laetior hinc Fano recipit Fortuna vetusto, Despiciturque vagus praeruptâ valle Metau|rus,

* 1.2 Quà mons arte patens vivo se perforat Arcu, Admisitque viam sectae per viscera rupis, Exuperans delubra Jovis, saxoque minantes Apenninigenis cultas pastoribus aras: Quin & Clitumni sacras victoribus undas, Candida quae Latiis praebent armenta tri|umphis Visere cura fuit. Nec te miracula fontis * 1.3 Praetereunt: tacito passu quem si quis adiret, Lentus erat: Si voce gradum majore citâsset, Commistis fervebat aquis, cùmque omnibus una Sit natura vadis, similes ut corporis umbras Ostendant: haec sola novam jactantia sortem Humanos properant imitari flumina mores. Celsa dehinc patulum prospectans Narnia campum Regali calcatur equo, rarique coloris Non procul amnis adest, urbi qui nominis auctor Ilice sub densâ sylvis arctatus opacis Inter utrumque jugum tortis anfractibus al|bet. Inde salutato libatis Tibride Nymphis, Excipiunt arcus, operosaque semita, vastis. Molibus, & quicquid tantae praemittitur urbi.De 6. Cons. Hon.

They leave Ravenna, and the Mouths of Po, That all the Borders of the Town o'er|flow; And spreading round in one continu'd Lake, A spacious hospitable Harbour make. Hither the Seas at stated Times resort, And shove the loaden Vessels into Port: Then with a gentle Ebb retire again, And render back their Cargo to the Main. So the pale Moon the restless Ocean guides, Driv'n to and fro by such submissive Tides. Fair Fortune next, with Looks serene and kind, Receives 'em, in her ancient Fane en|shrin'd; Then the high Hills they cross, and from below In distant Murmurs hear Metaurus flow, 'Till to Clitumno's sacred Streams they come, That send white Victims to Almighty Rome: When her triumphant Sons in War suc|ceed, And slaughter'd Hecatombs around 'em bleed.

At Narni's lofty Seats arriv'd, from far They view the Windings of the hoary Nar; Through Rocks and Woods impetuous|ly he glides, While Froth and Foam the fretting Sur|face hides. And now the Royal Guest, all Dangers pass'd, Old Tiber and his Nymphs salutes at last; The long laborious Pavement here he treads, That to proud Rome th' admiring Nati|ons leads: While stately Vaults and tow'ring Piles appear, And show the World's Metropolis is near.

Silius Italicus, who has taken more Pains on the Geography of Italy than any other of the Latin Poets, has given a Catalogue of most of the Rivers that I saw in Umbria, or in the Borders of it. He has avoided a Fault (if it be really such) which Macrobius has objected to Virgil, of passing from one Place to a|nother, without regarding their regular and natural Situation, in which Homer's Catalogues are observ'd to be much more methodical and exact than Virgil's.

—Cavis venientes montibus Umbri, Hos Aefis Sapisque lavant, rapidasque so|nanti Vortice contorquens undas per saxa Me|taurus. Et lavat ingentem perfundens flamine sacro Clitumnus taurum, Narque albescentibus undis In Tibrim properans, Tineaeque inglorius humor, Et Clanis, & Rubico, & Senonum de no|mine Senon. Sed pater ingenti medios illabitur amne Albula, & immotâ perstringit moenia ripâ, His urbes arva, & latis Mevania pratis, Hispellum, & duro monti per saxa recum|bens Narnia, &c.—Sil. It. L. 8.

Since I am got among the Poets, I shall end this Chapter with Two or Three Passages out of 'em, that I have omitted inserting in their proper Places.

Sit Cisterna mihi quam Vinea malo Ravennae, Cùm possim multo vendere pluris Aquam.Mar. L. 5.Lodg'd at Ravenna, (Water sells so dear) A Cistern to a Vineyard I prefer.

Callidus imposuit nuper mihi Caupo Ravennae: Cum peterem mixtum, vendidit ille merum.Id.By a Ravenna Vintner once betray'd, So much for Wine and Water mix'd I paid; But when I thought the purchas'd Li|quor mine, The Rascal fobb'd me off with only Wine.

Stat fucare colus nec Sidone vilior Ancon, Murice nec Tyrio.—Sil. It. L. 8.The Wool, when shaded with Ancona's Dye, May with the proudest Tyrian Purple vie.

Fountain Water is still very scarce at Ravenna, and was probably much more so, when the Sea was within its Neigh|bourhood.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Vid. Fast. Consul. Sicul.
• * 1.2

  An Highway made by Vespasian, like the Grott^o Oscuro near Naples.
• * 1.3

  This Fountain not known.