A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.4]

LETTER IV. CONTAINING A Description of the antient Caledonia, or Northern Part of Scotland; and particu|larly of the Shires and Towns of Fife, St. Andrews, Perth, Dumblain, Alloway, Culross, Scone, Angus, Dundee, Mon|trose, Aberdeen, Buchan, Murray, El|gin, Inverness, and the Highlands, &c.

SIR,

_I AM now to enter the true and real Caledonia; for that Part of the Country on the North of the Firth of Forth is alone called by that Name, and was antiently known by no other.

I crossed the River at Queensferry, seven Miles West of Edinburgh, into the Shire of Fife; and as the most considerable Places in this County are on the Sea-side, or near it, I directed my Journey East along the Coast. The first Place we came to was the Burgh of Innerkeithin, an an|tient walled Town, with a spacious Harbour opening from the East into the River, which has been lately

much neglected for want of Trade. The Town however is large, and still populous.

I can't pass over a tragical Story, which happened in this Town in the Reign of the late Queen Anne. The Master of Burleigh (so the eldest Son of a Lord or Viscount is called, while the Father is living) fell in Love with a young Woman in his Father's Family, but could not prevail with her either to marry him, or to sacrifice her Virtue to him; which being known, she was sent away, and he persuaded to travel. However, before his Departure, he de|clared she should be his Wife at his Return; and if any one else should marry her in his Absence, he would murder him. This passed without much Notice, and the young Woman was soon after mar|ried to a School-master in this Town.

The Gentleman returned, and understanding who was her Husband, went to his House at Noon-day, pull'd out a Pistol, and shot him dead on the Spot, making his Escape unmolested.

But a Proclamation being afterwards issued, with a Reward of 200l. for apprehending him, he was at last taken, and tried at Edinburgh by the Lords of the Justiciary, and condemned to have his Head cut off. Great Intercession was made to the Queen for his Pardon, which proving ineffectual, he found means to make his Escape out of the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, disguised in his Sister's Cloaths, the Night before he was to have been executed.

After that, he appeared in the late Rebellion, and was in the Battle of Dumblane, or Sheriffmuir, but escaped again with his Life, tho' his Estate, which was but small, was forfeited among the rest.

Near Innerkeithin, a little within the Land, stands the antient Town of Dumfermling, which is now in a very ruinous State. For, 1. Here is a decayed Monastery, which before the Reformation was very large, but then demolished, saving a Part, which

was turned into a Parochial Church; and even that is now decayed, and with it the Monuments of se|veral Kings and Queens of Scotland; particularly, that of Malcolm III. who founded the Monastery.

2. Here is a decayed Court, or Royal Palace, of the Kings of Scotland; but by whom built, is uncer|tain. Almost all King James the Sixth's Children were born in it, particularly King Charles I. and the Princess Elizabeth, afterwards Queen of Bohemia; and his Queen made this Place her particular Resi|dence, and had it settled upon her as her Jointure: Here she built herself an Apartment over the Arch of the great Gate for her particular Retirement, having a Gallery reaching from it to the Royal Lodgings. All is now ruinous.

3. Here is a decayed Town, the natural Conse|quence of the Decay of the Palace. The Treat|ment King Charles II. met with here, from the Covenanters, was sufficient to make him take a Disgust to the Place.

The Church has still a venerable Face, and at a Di|stance seems a mighty Pile, the Building being once vastly large. What is left appears too heavy for the present Dimensions. The Church itself is said to be as long as the Cathedral of Carlisle, designed by the Model of that at Glasgow; but I rather think, that at Glasgow was designed by the Model of this at Dumfermling; for it seems the most antient.

The People are poor, but would be poorer, if they had not the Manufacture of Linen for their Support, the Diaper and better Sort of Linen-trade being carried on here, and in the neighbouring Towns, with more Hands than ordinary. The Marquis of Tweedale has a great Estate in these Parts, and is hereditary Chamberlain or Keeper of the Royal House.

The Rocking Stone, near Balvaird in Fife, was a remarkable Curiosity. It was broken by Oliver

Cromwell's Soldiers, and then it was discovered, that its Motion was performed by an egg-shaped Extube|rance in the Middle of the under Surface of the upper Stone, which was inserted in a Cavity in the Surface of the lower Stone. As the lower Stone was flat, the upper was globular; and not only a just Pro|portion in the Motion was calculated from the Weight of the Stone, and the Wideness of the Ca|vity, as well as the oval Figure of the inserted Pro|minence; but the vast Bulk of the upper Stone ab|solutely conceal'd the Mechanism of the Motion; and, the better still to impose on the Vulgar, there were two or three surrounding flat Stones, tho' that only in the Middle was concerned in the Feat. By this pretended Miracle they condemn'd of Perjury, or acquitted, as their Interest or Affection led them; and often brought Criminals to confess what could be no other way extorted from them.

From turning East, we saw many Seats of private Gentlemen, and some of Noblemen, particularly one belonging to the Earl of Morton, at Aberdour; which fronts the Firth to the South, and the Grounds belonging to it reach down to the Shore.

From this Part of the Firth, to the Mouth of Innerkeithin Harbour, is a very good Road for Ships, the Water being deep, and the Ground good; but the Western Part, which they call St. Margaret's Bay, is a steep Shore and rocky, there being 20 Fathom Water within a Ship's Length of the Rocks. So that if a South-east Wind blows hard, it may be dangerous riding in it: But this Wind blows so seldom, that the Ships often venture it.

He that will view the County of Fife, which is wedg'd in by the Forth and the Tay, and shoots out far into the East, must, as I said before, go round the Coast; and yet there are four or five Places of Note in the Middle of the County, which are su|perior to all the rest, and must not be omitted: Kin|ross,

Lessly, Falkland, Melvil, Balgony, and Cow|par; the last a Town, the others great Houses, and one, viz. Falkland, a Royal Palace, and once the most in Request of all the Royal Houses in Scotland.

An English Reader will be surprised to hear of such Numbers of Palaces; but however mean our Thoughts may be of the Scots Court in antient Times, their Kings had more fine Palaces than most Princes in Europe; for in the Time of King James IV. they had all in good Repair and in Use, the several Royal Palaces of Holy-rood-house, and the Castle at Edinburgh, the Royal Palace in the Castle at Sterling, Linlithgow, Dumfermling, Falkland, Scone, the Castles of Dumbarton, Blackness, and Inverness.

Besides lesser Seats and Hunting-houses, of which King James V. had several; and the several Palaces of Earl Morton and others, which were forfeited into the King's Hands.

The South Coast of the County of Fife abounds with Towns; and the following Thirteen are Royal Burghs, viz. Innerkeithin, Bruntisland, King|born, Kirkaldy, Dysart, Pittenweem, Anstruther Wester, Anstruther Easter, Kilrinny, Crail, St. An|drews, all on the Coast, Dumfermling and Cowpar in the midst of the County. And it contains also these other Towns of Note; viz. Toryburn, Aber|dour, the two Weemys's, Levinsmouth, Ely, St. Monan's, and Newburg on the Tay: And it has in it four Presbyteries; viz. at Cowpar, St. Andrews, Kirkaldy and Dumfermling.

The Shire itself takes its Name from Fyfus, sur|named Duffus, to whom it was granted by King Kenneth II. for his Valour against the Picts, about the Year 840. His Posterity were first called Thanes of Fife, and afterwards Earls by Malcolm II. about the Year 1057. and endow'd with greater

Privileges than any other Earls of the Kingdom, be|cause of their extraordinary Services: A famous Monument of which, was that called Clan Mac|duff's Cross, on the publick Road near Abernethy, to which if any within the 9th Degree to the great Macduff, who was the chief Instrument of subdu|ing the Tyrant Macbeth, should have recourse in case of Manslaughter, he was to be pardon'd on paying a small Number of Cattle. This Monument had an Inscription importing those Privileges, now worn out, and was in such antiquated Terms, mixed with Macaronick, or half Latin Words, that few Men now living would have been able to make it out.

From this Macduff the Families of Dowglas, Weemys, and the Clan Chattau, are said to be de|scended. The Earl of Rothes is hereditary Sheriff of Fife.

Having seen Aberdour, I took a Turn, at a Friend's Invitation, to Lessly; but by the Way stopt at Kin|ross, where we had a View of two Things worth noting. First, The famous Lake or Lough, called Lough Leven, in an Island of which stands the Castle, where Queen Mary, commonly known in England by the Name of Queen of Scots, was con|fined by the first Reformers, being first compelled to quit her Favourite Bothwell, and afterwards her Crown; but from which she found means to make her Escape, tho', as it prov'd, Out of the Frying-pan into the Fire.

The Lough itself is worth seeing; 'tis very large, being above 10 Miles in Circumference, in some Places deep, and famous for Fish. Formerly it had good Salmon, but now chiefly Trouts, Perch, Pikes, and other small Fry; out of it flows the River Leven, which runs from thence to Lessly.

At the West-end of the Lake, (the Gardens reaching down to the very Water's Edge) stands the most beautiful and regular Piece of Architecture

(for a private Gentleman's Seat) in all Scotland; I mean the House of Kinross, belonging to Sir John Hope Bruce, Bart. The Town, which has a very good Market and a Street tolerably well built, lies at a little Distance from the House, so as not to obtrude upon its Privacy, and yet so as to be ready to wait upon its Call. 'Tis all Beauty; the Stone is white and fine, the Order regular, the Contrivance elegant, the Workmanship exquisite. Dryden's Lines, in|tended for a Compliment on his Friend's Poetry, are here literally true.

Strong Dorick Columns form the Base, Corinthian fills the upper Space; So all below is Strength, and all above is Grace.

Sir William Bruce, the Surveyor-General of the Works, the Wren of North Britain, was the Founder, as well as Architect, of this House. That Gentleman has left many noble Monuments of his admirable Skill and Taste in those Parts; such as the Palace of Holy-rood at Edinburgh; the House of Rothes, and this at Kinross, besides several others.

The Situation of this House of Kinross would be disliked by some for its being so very near the Water, insomuch that sometimes, when the Lake is swelled by Winter Rains, and melted Snows, it reaches to the very Gardens; but as the Country round is dry, free from stagnated Boggs, and unhealthy Marshes, this is of very little Inconvenience, if any. Sir William planted Numbers of Fir-trees upon the Land round his House, which the present Possessor, Sir John Hope Bruce, is as careful to improve as his Grandfather was to plant. Posterity will find the Advantage of this Taste, which, if it spreads as it has begun, will in time make Scotland a second Norway for Fir; for the Lowlands, as well as the Highlands, will be overspread with Timber.

From Kinross I came to Lessly, where I had a full View of the Palace of the Earl of Rothes, built in the Reign of King Charles II. by the said Sir William Bruce.

Here it was King James II. when Duke of York, lodged, most part of the Time, when he was obliged by his Brother to retire into Scotland; and his Apartments are still called the Duke of York's Lodgings.

The Magnificence of the Inside of this House is unusually great; but what is very particular, is the long Gallery, which is the full Length of one Side of the Building, and is filled with Paintings, but especially (as that is at Drumlanrig) of the great Ancestors of the House of Rothes, or Lessly, at full Lengths, and in their Robes of Office.

The Rooms of State at Kinross are well supply'd with very fine and valuable Pictures, many of which are of Princes, &c. but most, if not all the full Lengths in this Gallery of Rothes, are of the Family, and the immediate Ancestors, of the present Earl, most of them having been Peers, and possessed of the greatest Places of Trust in Scotland, from the Year 1320. to 1725. so that you may imagine there may well be enough to furnish a Gallery.

Tho' the House is magnificent, I cannot say the Situation of it is so advantageous as that of some other Seats; for it has no excellent Prospect from the grand Town, tho' it stands on the Banks of the Leven just where another smaller River joins it.

The Park on the South-side is very beautiful, six Miles in Circumference, walled round and diversified with little Woods of Fir-trees, which have Vistas reaching thro' them up to the House. The Gardens are at the East-end of the House, well designed and planted, extending to the Angle where the two Rivers meet; so that they are watered on the North and East-side, and on the South are parted

with a Wall from the Park, the West-end of them beginning from the House.

The Town of Lessly (seated at a small Distance West from the House, or a little North-west) has a good Market, but is, in no other respect, consider|able. The House aforesaid is the principal Glory of the Place.

From Lessly, we turn'd South to the Coast, and came to Bruntisland, situated in the middle of the North-side of the River Forth, just opposite to Leith; so that we have from hence a fair Prospect as well of the Road of Leith, as of the City and Castle of Edinburgh. Here is a very commodious Harbour, which has no Bar, but enters, as if it had been made by Hand, into the Centre of the Town; so that the Ships lie with their broad Sides to the very Houses; and it is the common Port of Safety to all Ships that happen to be forced up the Firth by Storms or contrary Winds: And Ships trading on this Coast frequently winter here. The Water is commonly 18, and at Spring-tides, 26 Feet deep within the Harbour; so that it is capable of receiving and careening the largest Men of War. The Town is adorned also with a beautiful Church, and has a large Town-house and Gaol. But the Harbour having suffered much by Time, and by Storms; and the Church, Town-house and Gaol, becoming ruinous, an Act passed Anno 1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Beer, &c. sold within the Town and Liberties, for increasing the Revenues, restoring the Harbour, and repairing the publick Structures above-mentioned.

Here is a Manufacture of Linen, as there is upon all the Coast of Fife, and especially for Green-cloth, as it is called, which has been several Years in great Demand in England for Printing or Painting, in the room of Calicoes, which are prohibited there.

Next to Bruntisland, upon the same Coast, is Kinghorn, noted for its Thread Manufacture, which the Women chiefly carry on; the Men being gene|rally Seamen upon all this Coast, as high as the Queen's-Ferry.

Great Numbers of Porpoises are seen almost con|stantly in this Firth, which the Men make a Practice of shooting, and then bring on Shore, and boil their Fat into Train Oil, as they do Whales, and several other great Fish, which they sometimes meet with thereabout. But the Firth affords a much more re|gular Fishing-trade lower down; of which in its Place.

The Ferry from Leith to the Shore of Fife, is fixed in Kinghorn, which is of considerable Advantage to it; tho' sometimes the Boats by Stress of Weather, are driven into Bruntisland.

East of this Town is Kirkcaldy, a larger, more populous, and better-built Town than the other, and indeed, than any on this Coast. It consists chiefly of one Street running along the Shore, from East to West, a full Mile, very well built. It has some considerable Merchants in it, in the most extensive Sense of the Word, besides others that deal very largely in Corn, exporting great Quantities of it both to England and Holland. Others again trade in Linen to England, who in Return bring back all needful Supplies of foreign Manufactures.

Here are several Coal-pits, not only in the Neigh|bourhood, but even close to the very Sea, at the West-end of the Town, and where, one would think, the Tide should make it impossible to work them. At the East-end of the Town is a convenient Yard for building and repairing of Ships, and farther on, several Salt-pans for boiling and making Salt.

Dysert boasts, as I said, of being a Royal Burgh; but notwithstanding it is a very decaying Corpo|ration; the only Support of it is, that the Lord

Dysert, the Landlord, has a good Salt-work here, and in the Lands adjoining an excellent Vein of Scotch Coal; both which are easily put on Ship-board at a small Wharf adjoining. This, I think, is the whole Trade of the Town, except what arises from a few Nail-makers and Hard-ware Workers.

I take the Decay of most of these Sea-port Towns, which 'tis evident have made a much better Figure in former Times, to be owing to the removing of the Court and Nobility of Scotland to England, which has been doing ever since the Junction of the Kingdoms under the same Prince in James I. and VI. and more completely by the Union. Their Sea-port Towns had, before, a Trade; when their Court was magnificent; when their Nobility built fine Houses, and lived in them. They then exported Goods infinitely more in Value, than what they re|ceived; and therefore the Balance was evidently on their Side; whereas, now, the Union has open'd a Door to all the English Manufactures, and suppressed many of the Scots; has prohibited their Wool going abroad, and yet scarcely takes it off at home. If the Cattle are sent to England, the Money is too generally spent there likewise. The Troops raised here are in English Service, and Scotland receives no Premium for the Levies, which she might have done, had they been sent abroad, as the Swiss and other Nations do at this time.

But the Benefits that will attend its principal Ports on the Repairs of their Harbour, and publick Struc|tures, by the many Acts already passed, and every Session of Parliament passing, by the Two-penies Scots levied for those Purposes, will in time, very probably, turn the Scale in favour of the Union, and increase the Trade of this Part of the United Kingdom, as by virtue of that Act it stands on the same foot of Advan|tage with England, and has so many good Ports, to receive Shipping, and carry on a Commerce with

foreign Parts, as well as Coastwise to England and Ireland. Of this the Towns of Glasgow, Dundee, Dumfries, Irvin, Dunbar, Pittenweem, Montrose, Inverness, Elgin, Aberbrothock, Bruntisland, La|nark, Linlithgow, &c. will bear Testimony, as I have and shall observe in their proper Places. In|deed 'tis pity but Scotland should find its Account in this respect, in general; for it must be own'd, as I have in part observed before, that it has a plentiful Product for Exportation; and were the Issue of that Product returned and consumed at home, it must necessarily grow rich and flourish.

To take only a short View of the Commodities it exports into foreign Countries, England included; for I am now considering Scotland as if not united:

• Carried to England; Corn, Black Cattle, Sheep, Wool; Linen of several Sorts; some Woolen Ma|nufactures, Stockens in particular.
• To Holland, Bremen, and Hamburgh; Corn, Lead, Salt, Coal, barrell'd Pork, and Salmon.
• Note, The Dutch buy the barrell'd Pork from Aberdeen for Victualling their East-India Ships, it being much better cured than that from any other Country.
• To Norway, Salt, Oatmeal, Salmon, Lead, Stockens, and Linen.
• To Sweden, Dantzick, and Riga; Salt, Woolen Manufactures of Sterling and Aberdeen.
• To Spain and the Streights; Herrings pickled; barrell'd and dry'd Salmon; Herrings, and White-fish.
• To France; Coal, Salt, Lead, Herrings, White-fish, and Wool.
• For all these Exportations the Returns are, or at least were, before the Union;
• From England; Pewter, Block-tin, Wrought Iron, Glass Ware, Sugars, Tobacco, Drugs and Dyers Stuffs.
• ...

• All the English Woolen and Silk Manufactures were prohibited upon the severest Penalties; so that the Returns from England in Goods were very small; the grand Return from thence was in Specie: And 'tis known, that above an Hundred Thousand Pounds was paid into Scotland every Year for Cattle only.
• From Holland; some fine Linens; but not much, because of their own. Lace, and fine Threads, Gimp, Incle, &c. East-India Goods, Linseed, and Lint, or Flax, Linseed-oil, Train-oil, and Whalebone.
• From Norway, Pitch and Tar, Deals and Firr Timber.
• From Sweden, Iron in Bars, and Copper, Deals and Timber.
• From Dantzick, Koningsberg, Riga, Narva, and Petersburg; Plank, call'd East Country Clap-board, or Wainscot, Oak Timber, and in Quarters; Hemp, Pitch, Tar, Turpentine, Sturgeon, and Flax.
• From France; Wine, Brandy, Apples, (Rennets) Resin, Cork, Paper, Wrought Silks, Raw Silks, Toys, Perfumes, &c.
• From the Royal Canal thro' France; Oil and Italian Pickles from Leghorn.
• From Hamburgh; Staves for Casks, Clap-board, Rhenish Wine, and Old Hock.

All these Sorts of Goods are returned into Scot|land, but the Quantities are very small: The chief Articles, to sum up all in a little, are,

From England, Sugar and Tobacco; from France, Wine and Brandy; from the East Country, Naval Stores; from Sweden, Iron and Copper; from Nor|way, Deals and Timber; from Holland, Lint and Linseed.

Now these put together, if I am rightly informed, do not balance the Lead, Coal, and Salt, which they export every Year: So that the Balance of Trade must stand greatly to the Credit of the Scots Account, which would be all returned into Scotland in Specie

every Year, if there was not a neighbouring Gulph, into which it is all sunk. And what a Figure would such an Advantage of running Cash be able to make?

I have already touched upon the Advantages, that will probably accrue to Scotland by the Method they have fallen upon of augmenting and repairing their Ports and Harbours, by virtue of the Two-penies Tax; and some will further add, to balance the Dis|advantages they lie under from the Union, that it is now establish'd in a lasting Tranquillity; and an End put to those Wars that used to lay waste the Borders of both Nations; that this will give En|couragement to the Improvement of the Land, and consequently of raising the Value of Estates; that the Taxes are easy and ascertained; that the Charges of defending the Country both Abroad and at Home lie upon England; and the West-India Trade abun|dantly pours in Wealth upon her. And all this is true; but, is it not Pity, for all that, that her own Nobility should not, like true Patriots, lend a helping Hand to the rising Advantage of their own Country, and spend some of the large Sums they get in Eng|land, in erecting Manufactures, employing the Poor, and propagating the Trade at Home, which they may see plainly has made their united Neighbours of England so much exceed them?

But to return to our Travels: We came next to a Village called the Wester-Wemys, belonging to the Earl of Wemys, whose House stands a little farther East, on the Top of a high Cliff, with its Front looking down upon the Sea. At the West-end of this Cliff, is a small Plain, once a Bowling-green, where the late Earl, being Admiral, had some small Field-pieces planted to answer Salutes. Behind the House is a small and irregular Court-yard, with two Wings of Building, being Offices to the House on one Side, and Stables on the other. Gardens there are none, only a large well-planted Orchard, be|tween

which and the House, the Road goes on to Easter-Wemys.

From thence you come to another Village, called Buckhaven, inhabited by Fishermen, who are em|ploy'd wholly in catching fresh Fish every Day in the Firth, and carrying them to Leith and Edinburgh Markets. The Buildings are but a miserable Row of Cottages; yet there is scarce a poor Man in it; but they are in general so very clownish, that to be of the College of Buckhaven, is become a Proverb.

Here we saw the Shore of the Sea covered with Shrimps, like a thin Snow; and as you rode among them, they would rise like a kind of Dust, and hop like Grashoppers, being scared by the Footing of the Horse.

The Fishermen of this Town have a great many Boats of all Sizes, which lie upon the Beach un|rigged, ready to be fitted out every Year for the Herring Season, in which they have a very great Share.

Beyond this is the Ely, a little Town, but a very safe and good Harbour, firmly built of Stone, almost like the Cobb at Lime, tho' not projecting into the Sea so much as that. It stands a little on the West-side of the Mouth of the Leven; the Salmon of which River are esteemed the best in this Part of Scotland.

To this Town the Earl of Wemys brings his Coal, which he digs about two Miles off, on the Banks of the River Leven; as also what little Salt he can make. The Coal-works are greatly prejudiced by the breaking in of the Water, notwithstanding the immense Charges they have been at to prevent that Inconvenience.

The People, who work in the Coal Mines in this Country, partly from their Poverty and hard Labour, and partly from the black Hue which they get from the Coal, make such a frightful Appearance,

that their own Countryman Drumond of Hawthornden, in his famous Macaronick Poem, called Polemo-Mid|dinia, thus describes them:

Coale-hewers Nigri, Girnantes more Divelli.

From hence we have several small Towns on the Coast, as Criel or Crail, Anstruther or Anster, as 'tis usually called, also the Port of Pittenweem; these are all Royal Burghs.

Pittenweem is a Port and Harbour very conve|niently situated near the Mouth of the Forth, in the Shire of Fife; and great Quantities of Herring, Cod, and other Fish, are taken here. But it has had two great Difficulties to encounter with; that is to say, the low Situation of the Town, close on the Harbour, by which means the Inhabitants were at a great and constant Expence beyond their Abi|lity, to maintain a Pier, and other Works, to de|fend both the Shipping and its People: The other, that the Entrance was very narrow and strait, and several Rocks lay in the Way of the Shipping, which was a great Hindrance to its Trade and Commerce. But in the Year 1719. an Act passed for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale, &c. sold within the Town and its Liberties, for remedying these Inconveniences.

Over-against this Shore, and in the Mouth of the Forth, opposite to the Isle of the Bass, lies the Isle of May, known to Mariners by a Light-house upon it. The only constant Inhabitant is said to be the Man maintained there by the Government to take care of the Fire in the Light-house. It was famous in former Times for barren Women going to St. Adrian's Shrine there.

Here the French Fleet lay with some Assurance, with the Pretender on board, in 1708. when the English Squadron approaching, the Four o'clock Gun gave the Alarm; upon which they immediately

weighed, got under Sail, and made the best of their Way, the English pursuing in vain.

The Shore of the Firth or Frith ends here, and the Aestuarium or Mouth opening, the Land of Fife falls off to the North, making a Promontory of Land, which the Seamen call Fifeness, looking East on the German Ocean, after which the Coast bends away North, and the first Town you come to is St. Andrew's, an antient, and once flourishing City, the Metropolis of all Scotland, and the Seat of the first University, and before the Revolution an Arch|bishop's See.

It is remarkable for a fine Situation, surrounded with extensive Corn-fields abounding in excellent Wheat and Barley, and the pleasant Downs, called the Links, lying on the Sea-side towards the North. The famous Physician Cardan esteemed it the heal|thiest Town he ever lived in, having Occasion to experience it some Months, when he came over from Italy, at the Request of the Pope, to prescribe to Archbishop John Hamilton, whom he recovered of a Consumption. And twenty Years before, it had the Approbation of the most eminent Physicians of the Country, when a House was fitted up here for the Reception of Magdalen, Daughter of Francis King of France, who married James V. King of Scotland, in 1537. but that Lady died shortly after her Arrival at Holy-rood-house in Edinburgh, and never reached St. Andrews.

The Town of old consisted of four large Streets lying from East to West, almost parallel to one an|other. The Northermost of the four, called Swal|low-street, tho' formerly the principal, is now totally ruined, not so much as one House remaining. The other three by their Regularity do not seem to have been a fortuitous Concourse of Houses, as most of the other Towns of this Country do; all of them terminating Eastward at the Cathedral, which look

upon each other, and seem to lament their decaying Condition. For tho' the Town was heretofore about two Miles in Circumference, there remain now hardly 1000 Houses; and of those near 200 are become ruinous, and not habitable. The Num|ber of Inhabitants still amount to above 4000, but many of them have nothing to do; there being neither Trade nor Manufactures in the Place, tho' at the same time it has a Harbour, but capable only of small Vessels. Near the Town is plenty of Free-stone, of which all the Houses are built.

Before the Reformation, this City was crouded both on account of Trade and Religion, Pilgrims coming hither in great Numbers to visit the Relicks of St. Andrew, said to be brought over by St. Regu|lus, about the End of the fourth Century, from Pa|tras in Greece, where that Apostle suffered Martyr|dom. Here were three religious Houses, a Fran|ciscan, Dominican, and Augustine Priory, the last founded by Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died 1139. and was established upon some of the Revenues formerly belonging to the antient Culdees of this Place. James Stewart, afterwards Earl of Murray, and Regent of Scotland, was, in his younger Days, Prior of it. This Monastery was more like the magnificent Palace of a Prince, than a Convent of Monks professing Poverty, as appears still by its Ruins, and particularly by the Wall that encompassed it of fine hewn Stone, with many Battlements and Turrets.

Here is now only one Parish Church, that of the Holy Trinity, remaining; but there are two others, which are rather Chapels, one to St. Salvator's Col|lege; of which, however, no Use is made, it having no Endowment, and the Provost of that College being often a Layman, even in a Presbyterian Sense. The other is the Chapel belonging to St. Leonard's College, the Provost whereof must be a Minister.

The Church of the Holy Trinity is an antient and stately Edifice built with fine Free-stone in form of a Cross, and has at the West-end a handsome Spire in good Repair. In it is a fine Monument of Archbishop Sharpe, who was assassinated upon a Moor, as he was coming Home in his Coach: It was erected by the Archbishop's Son, Sir William Sharpe, Bart. who to secure it from the Fate he feared it might be liable to, mortified 6000 Merks to the City of St. Andrews to keep it in constant Repair; which has had its intended Effect; for the Magistrates are very careful of it, and would be very severe upon any who should attempt to deface it.

On the North-side of the Town was the old Castle, of which now nothing is remaining but the Walls, built by Roger, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died 1202. being the second Son of Robert Beaumont, Earl of Leicester, and Chancellor of Scotland. It was re|paired by Cardinal Bethune, and Archbp. Hamilton; the former of whom procured George Wishart to be burnt here in the Parade, while from his Window he glutted his Eyes with so horrid a Spectacle; but was himself afterwards assassinated, 1546. in the same Place; to revenge whose Death, the Queen Regent permitted it to be attacked by the French, from whom it suffered greatly. But at the Reformation it suffered more, and its Ruin has been completed since the Revolution.

To the East of the Castle are the Ruins of the stately Cathedral founded by Bishop Arnold, who died 1163. and finished by Bishop Lambertoun, who died 1328. It was in Length from East to West 370 Feet, and the Cross from South to North 180; its Breadth 65, and its Heighth 100 Feet; tho' some draw another kind of Ichnography, and make it seven Feet longer, and two broader, than St. Peter's at Rome; and for the Height, as well as the Beauty of its Pillars, and the Symmetry and Proportion of

the Whole, it was one of the best Gothick Structures in the World.

It was sometimes called Kill-ri-mont, from the Church built by Hergust King of the Picts in the fourth Century; but the Name of St. Andrews has prevailed for many Ages. The Cathedral was near demolished at the Reformation; but was repaired, in some measure, by the succeeding Archbishops; but since the Revolution it has been intirely in Ruins, as we now see it.

Near the Ruins of the Cathedral are still remain|ing the Walls of the most antient Chapel of St. Rule, with the great square Spire still very intire. It is in Height 105 Feet, and made of such large and durable Stones, that tho' it was built so many Ages ago, yet so little has it suffered by the Injuries of the Weather, that a small Sum would save it from falling for many Ages to come: And as this is probably one of the most antient Monuments of Christianity in Great Britain, it is Pity it should go to Ruin for want of a suitable Reparation. This besides would be the most proper Chapel and Chapter-house for the noble Knights of the most antient Order of the Thistle, since under the Patronage of the Apostle St. Andrew (whose Relicks were preserved at this Place) that Order of Knighthood had its Rise and Foundation; and by King James VII's Letters Patents reviving and re|storing this noble Order, which were dated at Windsor the 26th of May 1687. it appears the Knights of the Thistle, or St. Andrew, formerly held their Chapters in the great Church of St. Andrews; which being demolished, his said Majesty ordered them for the future, to be kept at the Chapel Royal of Holy-rood-house.

This City is famous particularly for its University, consisting of three Colleges, founded by Henry Wardlaw, Bishop of St. Andrews, in the Year 1412. It obtained very ample Privileges and Immunities

from Pope Benedict XIII. which were afterwards confirmed to them by King James I. of Scotland, and by several other succeeding Kings. During Episcopacy the Archbishops were Chancellors of it. The Rector is chosen yearly, and by the Statutes ought to be one of the Principals of the three Colleges here, called St. Salvator's, St. Leonard's, and the New College.

St. Salvator's College was founded by James Kennedy, Bishop of St. Andrews, Anno 1448. who erected the Edifice, furnished it with costly Orna|ments, and endowed it with sufficient Revenues for a Doctor, a Batchelor, and Licentiate of Divi|nity, four Professors of Philosophy, and eight poor Scholars. The Earl of Cassils settled a Maintenance for a Professor of Philosophy. It has a good Library founded by Dr. Sheen. The Edifice itself is a most stately Pile of fine hewn Stone, has a large vaulted Chapel covered with Free-stone, and over it is a very lofty Spire. The common Hall and Schools are vastly large; and the Cloisters and private Lodg|ings for Masters and Scholars have been very magni|ficent and convenient; but the Fabrick is of late become very much out of Repair, nor is the College Revenue able to support it.

St. Leonard's College was founded by John Hep|burne, Prior of St. Andrews, in the Reign of King James V. with Salaries for a Principal or Warden, four Professors of Philosophy, and eight poor Scholars. A Professor of Philology was added by Sir John Scot of Scots-tarvet, with a liberal Salary. He also augmented the Library very considerably; and Sir John Wedderburn, at his Death, left a great Col|lection of Books to it. Fordun's MS. of the Scotish History is in this Library.

The New College was founded by Archbishop Bethune, Uncle to the Cardinal of that Name, with Endowments for a Principal and Professor of

Divinity, and some Students in the same Faculty; for no Philosophy is taught in this College.

These last two Colleges, having a better Revenue to support them, than that of St. Salvator, are in much better Repair. In the latter, King Charles I. held a Parliament, in a large spacious Room able to seat 400 Persons in regular Order, and it still retains the Name of the Parliament Room.

A Professor of Mathematicks was of late Years added to this University; as was also, not long since, a Professor of Medicine, with a handsome Endowment by his Grace James Duke of Chandos; whom the University, upon the Death of the Duke of Athol, in Gratitude, chose to be their Chancellor; which Office is during Life; and to that alone, and that of his Vice-Chancellor, belongs the conferring of all University Degrees.

Mr. James Gregory, Professor of Mathematicks in this University, famous for his Knowledge in that Science, has erected in the College Gardens, a com|modious Observatory, and furnished it with good Mathematical Instruments.

It has produced many learned Men; among others, the famous Lord Napier, who invented the Loga|rithms, Sir Robert Murray, Sir Andrew Balfour, and the great Lawyer Sir George Mackenzie.

The Harbour here has suffered so much by the Encroachments of the Sea, that I fear it will never be sufficiently repaired. The Pier is founded upon a Rock of Free-stone, in Length about 440 Feet; but this Rock extends itself into the Sea 500 Feet further, on the Point of which stands a Beacon; and the great Rolling of the Sea, breaking over the Rock, between the Pier-end and this Beacon, makes the Harbour very dangerous. In the Year 1728. it was proposed to be repaired, and the Pier carried as far as the Beacon, and a Brief was granted for that

Purpose. But the Collections were too small to make any great Advances.

By all we have said, it will appear, that this antient City, and its University too, are in a very declining State. The Archbishop's Seat, and Eccle|siastical Courts kept there, beside the great Resort of Pilgrims to the Convents, brought great Business thither, which being now disused, and one new College erected at Edinburgh, and another at Aber|deen, contribute much to the Decay of both. The City enjoys still some Privileges by the original Charter, yet extant, whereby it was incorporated by King David, Anno 1153.

From St. Andrews we proceeded on to two very agreeable Seats belonging to the present Earl of Le|ven; one called Melvil, and the other Balgony. Melvil is a regular and beautiful Building, after the Model of Sir William Bruce's House at Kinross, de|scribed before. Balgony is an antient Seat, formerly belonging to the Family of Lessly; and if not built, was inlarged and repaired by General Alexander Lessly, noted for his Services in Germany, under Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden; and at last, against King Charles I.

The River Leven runs hard by the Walls of the House, and makes the Situation very pleasant. The Park is large, but not well planted; at least, the Trees do not thrive.

From hence we went North to Cowpar, the Shire Town, and turned to the North-east Part of the Country, to see the Ruins of the famous Monastery of Balmerinoch, of which Mr. Camden takes Notice; but we saw nothing worth our Observation, the very Ruins being almost eaten up by Time. The Mona|stery was founded by Queen Ermengred, Wife of King William of Scotland.

Hence we came to the Bank of another Firth, called the Firth of Tay, which opening to a large

Breadth at its Entrance, as the Firth of Edinburgh does, draws in afterwards, as that does at the Queen's-ferry, and makes a Ferry over at the Breadth of two Miles to the Town of Dundee; and then the Firth widening again just as that of the Forth does also, continues its Breadth from four to six Miles, till it comes almost to Perth, as the other does to Sterling.

This River Tay is, without Exception, the largest River in Scotland, tho' not of the longest Course; for it rises out of the Mountains, near the Edge of Argyllshire; and running first North into the District of Braidalbin, there receiving many other Rivers, spreads itself into a large Lake, called Lough Tay, extending near 40 Miles in Length, and traversing the very Heart of Scotland, comes into the Sea near this Place: Now, as I design to keep in this Part of my Work to the East Coast of the Country, I must for the present quit the Tay, keeping a little on the hither Side of it, and go back to that Part of the Country which lies to the South, and East of Dum|barton or Lenoxshire; so drawing an imaginary Line from Sterling-bridge, due North, thro' the Heart of the Country, to Inverness, which I take to lie almost due North and South.

In this Course I moved from the Ferry mentioned above, to Perth, lying upon the same Tay, but on the hither Bank. It was formerly called Johnston, or St. John's Town, from an old Church, dedicated to the Evangelist St. John, which is still remaining, and so big as to make two Parochial Churches, and can serve the whole Town for their publick Worship.

Perth is the second Town of Scotland for Dignity. Near it stood antiently the Town of Berth, which being overflowed by an Inundation of the Tay, oc|casioned the building of this, where it now stands.

The chief Business of this Town at present is the Linen Manufacture; which is so considerable here, that all the neighbouring Country is employed in it,

and it is the Wealth of the whole Place. The Tay is navigable up to the Town for Ships of good Burden; and they ship off here vast Quantities of Linen, for England.

The Salmon taken here, and all over the Tay, are extremely good, and the Quantity prodigious. They carry them to Edinburgh, and to all the Towns where they have no Salmon, and barrel up great Quantities for Exportation: The Merchants of this Town have also a considerable Trade to the Baltick and Norway.

This Town was for some time the Seat of the late Rebellion; but by a peculiar Felicity the Townsmen got so much Money by both Parties, that they have ever since been enriched by it, as appears not only from particular Families, but from the publick and private Buildings which they have raised since that time; particularly a new Tolbooth or Town-hall.

It will seem a little strange to us in the South, that any Place should be enriched by a Rebellion; but a few Words will explain it. It must be observed, that the Pretender and his Troops having their Quarters hereabouts a considerable time, occasioned a great Consumption of Victuals and Drink, which are so plentiful in these Parts, that 'tis frequent for Towns to petition the Government to have Regi|ments of Soldiers quarter'd upon them; tho' in Eng|land nothing gives greater Uneasiness.

Again, as the Pretender was here and at Scone, it occasioned a great Confluence of Persons of Note, who gathered about him, waiting the Issue of his Fortunes, till they found the Storm gathering from the South, and no probable Means to resist it, and then they shifted off as they could.

While they resided here, Lodgings in the Town lett at such a Rate, as was never known before; Provisions were dear, Trade brisk; and had it lasted two or three Months longer, it would have made all the Towns rich in the Neighbourhood.

When this Cloud was dispersed, the Victors enter'd; new Officers succeeded the routed Party. Still the Head Quarters were here; and afterwards the Dutch Troops continued here most Part of the Winter. All this while the Money flowed in, and the Town made their Market on both Sides; they were Gainers even by War and Foreigners!

The Linen Trade, which we have mentioned before, has mightily increased since the Act of Par|liament in England, for suppressing the Use of printed Calicoes; in the room of which Scotch and Irish Linens have been bought and printed in England: So that the Worsted and Silk Weavers in London seem to have had very little Benefit by the Act.

At Ardock in Perthshire are the Remains of a Roman Camp; and near Perth is a Roman Way, where several Medals, sepulchral Urns, and other Monuments of Antiquity, have been found.

From Perth, I went South to that Part which they call Clackmanan, lying West from Dumfermling, and extending itself towards Sterling and Dumblain, none of which Part I had gone over before.

North-eastward from Perth to Brechen lies a Vale which they call Strathmore, esteemed the most fruit|ful in Corn of all that Part of the Country: Here are a great many Gentlemens Seats, tho' on the North-side of the Tay, particularly the noble Palace of Glames, the Hereditary Seat of the Family of Lyon, Earls of Strathmore. The Heir in Reversion now enjoys the Title and Estate, tho' it very nar|rowly escaped being forfeited; for the elder Brother entertained here the Pretender very magnificently, making up for him and his Retinue fourscore and eight Beds, and afterwards espoused his Cause so strenuously, that he lost his Life in his Service, at the Battle of Sheriff-muir. The Estate, being en|tailed, descended to the second Son, or younger Brother, who is now Earl of Strathmore.

It is one of the finest old-built Palaces in Scotland, and by far the largest. When you see it at a Distance, it is so full of Turrets and lofty Buildings, Spires and Towers, some plain, others shining with gilded Tops, that it looks not like a Town, but a City; and the Appearances seen thro' the long Vista's of the Park are so different, that you would not think it the same House any two Ways together.

The great Avenue is a full half Mile, planted on either Side with several Rows of Trees. When you come to the outer Gate, you are surprised with the Beauty and Variety of the Statues and Busts, some of Stone, some of Brass, some gilded, some plain. The Statues in Brass are four, one of King James VI. one of King Charles I. booted and spurred, as if going to take Horse at the Head of his Army; one of King Charles II. habited like that in the Royal Exchange, London; and one of King James VII. after the Pattern of that which is at Whitehall.

From hence I came away South-west, and crossing the Tay below Perth, but above Dundee, came at last to Dumblain, a Town pleasantly situated, on the Banks of the River Allan; but without any sort of Trade. It contains the Ruins of a Church of ex|cellent Workmanship; but within our own Memory it was made famous by the Battle fought between the Army of King George I. under the Command of the Duke of Argyll, and the Pretender's Forces under the Earl of Mar, on Sheriff-muir, between this Place and Sterling. We took a full View of the Field of Battle, and could not but reflect with Surprize, that a Rabble of Highlanders appearing in Rebellion, armed in Haste, and headed by a Person of no Ex|perience in War, should come so near to the over|throwing an Army of regular disciplined Troops, and led on by experienced Officers, and so great a General.

From hence I proceeded on in Sight of Sterling-bridge; but leaving it on the Right-hand, turned away East to Alloway, where the Earl of Mar had a noble Seat, and where the Navigation of the Firth of Forth begins. This is, as I hinted before, within four Miles of Sterling by Land, and scarcely within 24 by Water, occasioned by those uncommon Me|anders and Reaches in the River, which gives so beautiful a Prospect from the Castle of Sterling.

This fine Seat was formerly called the Castle of Alloway, but is now so completely modernized, that no Appearance of a Castle remains.

The Gardens of Alloway House are by much the finest in Scotland, and not out-done by any in Eng|land, consisting of above 40 Acres of Ground; and the adjoining Wood, which is adapted to the House in Avenues and Vistas, above three times as much.

Here is a Harbour where Ships of Burden safely ride. The Glasgow Merchants have erected Ware-houses, to which they bring their Tobacco and Sugars by Land, and then ship them for Holland or Ham|burgh, or the Baltick, or England, as they find the Market.

The High-street of Alloway reaches down to this Harbour, and is a very spacious, well-built Street, with Rows of Trees finely planted all the Way. Here are several Testimonies of the Goodness of their Trade, as particularly a large Deal-yard, or Place for laying up all Sorts of Norway Goods, which shews that they have a Commerce thither. They have large Ware-houses of naval Stores; such as Pitch, Tar, Hemp, Flax, two sawing Mills for cutting or slitting of Deals; and a Rope-walk, for making all Sorts of Ropes and Cables for rigging and fitting Ships; with several other Things, which con|vinces us they are no Strangers to other Trades, as well by Sea as Land.

East from Alloway, is a small County, called Clackmannanshire, from the Head Burgh, and is Part of Fife. The Country is plain, the Soil fertile; most of it proper for Pasture; and what lies below the Orchil-hills, producing Corn very well. But the Shire is chiefly known for yielding the best of Coal, and the greatest Quantity of it, of any Country of Scotland; so that it is carried, not only to Edin|burgh, but also to England, Holland, and France. But while the Freight from Scotland is so dear, and the Tax in England so heavy, the Price of these Coals must always be so high at London, as will not fail to restrain the Consumption.

On this Shore of the Firth, farther down, stands the neat and agreeable Town of Culross, lying in Length by the Water-side, like Kirkaldy, being likewise a Trading Town, as Trade must be under|stood in Scotland. Here is a pretty Market, a plen|tiful Country behind it, and the navigable Firth before it. The Coal, the Linen Manufacture, and Plenty of Corn, will always keep something of Trade alive upon the whole Coast.

Here is a very noble Seat belonging to the Bruces, Earls of Kincairn, and is well worth a Traveller's Notice; and indeed these Instances of Magnificence are so frequent in Scotland, that were we to dwell upon each of them, such of our Readers as know nothing of Scotland would be apt to think we were too partial in its Favour. But it is certain, that no Gentry or Nobility in the World exceeded the Scots, while an independent Kingdom, in noble Houses, and all manner of Magnificence; as their Families for Antiquity of Descent hardly have any Equals in any one Country on Earth.

Culross is a Royal Burgh in the Shire of Perth, but in the Confines of Fife, famous for a Branch of the Iron Manufacture in making Girdles, i. e. broad round Plates, on which they bake their oaten Cakes.

They told me of Mines of Copper, and of Lead, lately discovered in Fife, and of Silver also: But I could not learn that any of them were actually wrought. It is, however, not improbable, but that there are such Mines; and particularly the two Lo|mons, which are remarkable Mountains in this Shire, seem to promise Metal in their Bowels, if they were thoroughly searched. They rise up like two Sugar-loaves in the Middle of a plain Country, not far from Falkland, and give a View of the Firth of Edinburgh South, and the Firth of Tay North, and are seen from Edinburgh very plain.

Having made this little Excursion to the South from Perth, you may suppose me now returned Northward again; and we proceeded to Scone, that antient Seat of Royal Ceremony, where almost all the Kings of Scotland were crowned, since the Con|quest of the Picts.

The celebrated Wooden Chair, with the Stone in it, was brought away from hence, as is well known, by the victorious King Edward I. and placed in Westminster-Abbey, where it now is; but the Scotish Royal Blood succeeding to the English Crown, in the Person of King James I. of England, and VI. of Scotland, verify'd the following prophetick Distich, tho' at the Time, it was accounted no small Loss and Disgrace to the Kingdom. The Lines were these:

Ni fallat Fatum, Scoti quocunque locatum Invenient Lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem.

Thus translated by the Scots:

Unless old Prophets fail, and Wizards Wit decay, Where-e'er this Stone is found, the Scots shall reign for ay.

It is said to have been first dignified by K. Kenneth, who having fought a bloody Battle here with the Picts, in which he gave them a great Overthrow, sat down to rest him upon this Stone, after he had

been tired with the Slaughter of the Enemy; upon which his Nobles came round him to congratulate his Success; and in Honour to his Valour, crowned him with a Garland of Victory; from whence he dedicated the Stone to the Coronation of all the future Kings of Scotland, hoping from this Omen, that they should, like him, be victorious over all their Enemies.

But the better Sort of Scots Historians say, their Kings brought it from Ireland into I-Colm-Kill in the Isles, and from thence to Scone or Scoon, when they had subdued the Picts.

The Palace of Scoon, tho' antient, is not so much decay'd as those I have already spoken of; and the Pretender found it very well in Repair for his Use. Here he lived and kept his Court, in all the State and Appearance of a Sovereign; but it was a short-lived Splendor; for in 20 Days he was obliged to quit the Kingdom, by the Advance of the Royal Army. In this Palace is the longest Gallery in Scotland, and the Ceiling painted, but the Painting very old.

The Building is large, the Front being above 200 Feet; it has two extraordinary fine square Courts, besides others, which contain the Offices, Out|houses, &c. The Royal Apartments are spacious and large; but the whole Building is intirely after the antient Manner.

From Scoon to Dunkeld is so little a Way, that we could not help visiting it, being the Place where a Skirmish was fought between the Forces of King William, after the Revolution, and some of the Viscount of Dundee's Men, who pursued the King's Forces, as they were obliged to retire from Gilli|cranky, after Lord Dundee himself had been killed there. The Duke of Athol has a noble old House here, in one of the Courts of which that Part of the Action happened.

Here was formerly a beautiful and magnificent Cathedral Church, dedicated to St. Columba, the Seat of a Bishop, whose Chapter or Prebendaries were Culdees, or Black Monks; but they are now dissolved, and most Part of the Church in Ruins.

Dunkeld is the chief Market-town of the High|lands, and supposed to have been formerly the chief Town of Caledonia. It is situated on the North|side of the Tay, at the Foot of the Grampian Hills, and is surrounded with pleasant Woods.

Upon the River Tay also lies Errol, the Seat of the Earl of that Name, chief of the antient Family of Hay, who derive their Origin from a famous Pea|sant, who in the Reign of Kenneth III. being at Plough with his two Sons, and perceiving the Scots fleeing before the Danes, he and his two Sons stopt their Flight, renew'd the Battle, and gained the Victory; for which they had the Lands of Errol bestowed upon them; and the Family Arms is three bloody Shields, supported by two naked Men with Yokes, in Remembrance of this famous Victory; the Father and two Sons having no other Weapons when they put themselves at the Head of the flying Scots, but the Yokes they took from their Ploughs. Of this Family are, besides the Earls of Errol, the Marquis of Tweedale, the Earl of Kinnoul, &c.

But our determined Rout lay up the Eastern Shore, and thro' the Shires adjacent on that Side, as parti|cularly Angus, Mearns, Marr, Aberdeen, Buchan, and so, as I laid it out before, to Inverness.

Mr. Camden tells us, That the Firth of Tay was the utmost Boundary of the Roman Empire in Britain: That Julius Agricola, the best of Generals, under Do|mitian, the worst of Emperors, tho' he pierced far|ther, and traversed by Land into the Heart of the Highlands, yet seeing no End of a barbarous Coun|try, and no Advantage by the Conquest of it, with|drew, and here fixed the Roman Eagles; that he

frequently harassed the Picts by Excursions and In|roads, but always returned to his Post here, making the Tay his Frontier.

But our English Caesars have outgone the Romans; for Edward I. as is said before, passed the Tay, and rifled the Abbey at Scoon; and, if we may believe History, penetrated into the remotest Parts, which, however, I take to be only the remotest Parts of what was then known to the English; for as to the Highlands, the Mountains of Loquhaber, Ross, Mur|ray, Sutherland, and Caithness, we read nothing of them: From these Retreats the Scots always returned, Antaeus like, with double Strength after every De|feat; till in the next Reign they overthrew his Suc|cessor Edward II. at Bannockbourn, and drove the English out of the whole Country; following them over Tweed into England, and ravaging the Coun|ties of Northumberland and Cumberland.

Oliver Cromwell, indeed, (according to the Motto of a noble House in Scotland, Rode Through) pene|trated to the remotest Part of the Island; and that he might even literally rule it with a Rod of Iron, built Citadels and Forts in all the Angles and Ex|tremes, where he found it needful to place his sta|tionary Legions, just as the Romans did; as at Leith, at St. Andrew's, at Inverness, Perth, Aire, and seve|ral other Places. We have since seen the Forces of King George I. making the same Rout, nay, ferrying over into the Western, and North-western Islands; here again imitating the Prudence of the old Romans, who employ'd their Soldiery in mend|ing Roads, and making Causeways over Mountains, that were before thought inaccessible.

Where Armies have marched, there's Room enough, no doubt, for Travellers. With this Assu|rance therefore, we chearfully crossed the Tay.

We left Strathern, with the little Country of Menteith; for our Return, and went down into

Angus to Dundee, a pleasant, large, populous City, which as it stands well for Trade, so it has as large a Share of it, as most Towns in Scotland, and that as well Foreign as Domestick.

It is exceeding populous, full of stately Houses, and large handsome Streets; particularly four very good ones, with a large Market-place in the Middle, the largest and fairest in Scotland, except that of Aberdeen.

The Inhabitants have a very large Correspondence with England, and ship off a great deal of Linen thither; and a great Quantity of Corn is sent from hence to England, as well as to Holland. They have likewise a good Share of the Norway Trade; and as they are concerned in the Herring Fishery, they consequently have some East Country Trade, viz. to Dantzick, Koningsberg, Riga, &c. They send Ships also to Sweden, and import Iron, Copper, Tar, Pitch, Deals, &c. from the several trading Ports of that Kingdom.

The Country behind them called the Carse, or the Carse of Gowry, with the Vale mentioned above of Strathmore, abounds in Corn, which the Port of Dundee ships off in large Quantities, when a Crop allows it, to the great Advantage of the Gentlemen as well as Farmers; for as the Gentlemen receive all their Rents in Kind, they would find a great Diffi|culty sometimes to dispose of it, if the Merchants here did not ship it off, either for London or Amsterdam.

The Town of Dundee stands at a little Distance from the Tay; but they are joined by a Causeway or Walk, well paved with flat Free-stone, such as the Side-ways in Cheapside and Cornhill; and Rows of Trees are planted on either Side of the Walk, which makes it very agreeable. On one Part of this Walk are very good Warehouses for Merchandizes, espe|cially for heavy Goods; and also Granaries for Corn

of which sometimes they have a vast Quantity laid up here; and these, being near the Harbour, are con|venient, as well for the housing of Goods, when landed, as for the easy shipping off what lies for Exportation.

The Harbour of Dundee was formerly very good and safe; but of late Years became so ruinous and choaked up with Sand, that it would not contain, as antiently, Ships of Burden, except at the highest Tides; and its Piers were so out of Repair, that Ships could not lie in it with Safety. At the same time the Tolbooth and publick Gaol were so much decay'd, that they were obliged to be pulled down; and the Town, being greatly in Debt besides, could not rebuild the same. Wherefore, to answer all these good Purposes, and to pave the Streets, dis|charge their Debts, and provide Salaries for School-masters to instruct their Children, an Act passed, Anno 1731. for continuing the Duties imposed by a former Act, then near expired, of Two-penies Scots, upon every Pint of Ale and Beer sold within the Town and its Privileges, for 25 Years longer. And the Inhabitants now reap the Benefit of it, and will still more, when the proposed Works are abso|lutely perfected.

This Town was storm'd and plunder'd of great Riches by Cromwell and the English Army.

The great Church was formerly collegiate, and a very large Building; but part of it was demolished in the Civil War; the Remainder is divided into three Churches for the present Use of the Citizens.

They have also a Meeting-house or two for the Episcopal Worship; for you are to take it once for all, that North of Tay, there are far more of the Episcopal Persuasion than are to be found in the South; and the farther North, the more so.

The Tower upon the great Church here is a handsome square Building, large and antient, and

very high, and is a good Ornament to the City: It resembles the great Tower upon the Cathedral of Canterbury, but not quite so high. There is a fine and well-endowed Hospital for decay'd Townsmen of Dundee, where they are well taken care of, and provided for. The Pretender was in this City soon after his Landing, and staid here some time, before he advanced to Scoon.

It was the Birth-place of Hector Boetius, the Scots Historian; a Man famous in his Time, and whose Work was antiently more in Esteem, than of late. It gave the Title of Viscount to Graham of Clavers, who commanded the Forces that ap|peared for the late King James at the Revolution, and was killed at the Battle of Gillicranky, which I have mentioned.

Near to Dundee, in the Mouth of the River, lies Brochty-craig, formerly well-fortify'd, and noted now for a noble Salmon-fishery in its Neighbourhood.

It is 20 Scots Miles from Dundee to Montrose, the Way pleasant, the Country fruitful, and filled with Gentlemens Houses. Among these is the noble Palace of Panmure, forfeited in the late Re|bellion by the unfortunate Earl of that Name, who was wounded in the Fight near Dumblain. The Surname of the Family is Maul; and Maulsburgh, a small Town near Montrose, is called from it.

The Town and Port of Montrose was our next Stage, standing upon the Eastmost Shore of Angus, open to the German, or the Caledonian Ocean, and at the Mouth of the little River of Southesk, which makes the Harbour.

This Town is well situated for Trade, and has a good Harbour, and the Inhabitants always carried on an advantageous Trade with Norway. But as it was still capable of great Improvements, were a Dock to be made for the Conveniency of Shipping; and if good fresh Water could be procured for it, of which

it stood in very great Want; and the two Hills that defend the Town against Inundations, having also suffered by Tempests; the Corporation procured an Act, Anno 1719. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Pint of Ale, &c. sold within the Town and its Privileges, for effecting these good Purposes.

The Town is adorned with fine Buildings, and has an Hospital for the poorer Inhabitants. It gives Title of Duke, as it did formerly of Earl and Mar|quis, to the Chief of the antient and noble Family of Graham.

The French Fleet first made Land at this Port, when they had the Pretender on board, in the Reign of Queen Anne, having over-shot the Mouth of the Firth so far, whither they at first designed; but this Mistake, which some thought a Misfortune, was certainly a Deliverance to them; for as on one hand it gave time to the English Fleet to come up with them before they could enter the Firth, so it left them time and room also to make their Escape; which, if they had gone up the Firth, they could never have done, but must inevitably have been burnt and de|stroyed, or taken by the British Fleet under Sir George Byng, which was superior to them in Force.

The Royal Burgh of Aberbrothock on this Coast, besides being famous for the stately Ruins of the greatest Abbey in Scotland, deserves to be mentioned for its convenient Situation for Trade; which in|duced, some Years since, the Inhabitants to lay the Foundation of a new Harbour, the old one being so decayed, that it was hazardous even for small Ves|sels to sail into it. But the Work exceeding their Abilities, they procured Contributions towards so good a Design; but still all proving short of what was requisite to complete the Work, and the Town having run itself into Debt by what it had done, and at the same time the publick Streets and

Causeways, as well as the Town-house and Gaol, being in a very ruinous Condition, they procured an Act to pass in the 11th of King George II. for laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots upon every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer sold within the Town and Liberties, which was to commence in May 1738. and to con|tinue for 25 Years, for bringing to Effect these good Purposes. And we may say, that of late so many of these Acts have passed, that Scotland will in a few Years, if harassed by no intestine Broils, and continuing in Peace, make a better Figure than it has done for Centuries past.

The Abbey was formerly endowed with great Re|venues by King William I. who was buried here under a stately Monument.

In the inner Parts of the Shire, to the Westward, is Forfar the County Town, and Brechin formerly a Bishop's See, made so by K. David, and where some Part of a small Cathedral is still standing. It is seated upon the River Southesk, over which it has a stately Bridge of two Arches, and is considerable for its Salmon and Cattle-markets. It is also memorable for a great Victory obtained here over the Danes, by the Chief of the Family of Keith, Earl Mareschal, who having killed their General, was advanced to great Honours by Malcolm II. There was a high Stone erected over the Grave of the Danish General, which is still called Camus's Cross, from his Name; and at 10 Miles Distance is another Cross, over the Grave of another eminent Danish Warrior; and both of them have antique Letters and Pictures upon them.

From Montrose the Shore lies due North to Aber|deen: In the Way is the Castle of Dunnoter, once a strong Fortification upon an high Precipice of a Rock. The Castle was surrounded with invincible Walls, (said the honest Scot, who shewed us the Road to it) having Towers at proper Distances,

after the old Way of fortifying Towns. The Earl Mareschal, of the Name of Keith, was Lord of this Castle, as also of a good House near it, and a great Estate: But what he had, is now gone; for, being in the Rebellion, his Estate was forfeited, and his Lordship, making his Escape, went into the Service of Spain, in which he still continues. But we ought to observe, that his Brother, going into the Service of Russia, made such a Figure there, that he is a Lieutenant-General in that Empire, and greatly esteemed for his personal Bravery and Conduct. This Gentleman making, lately, a Visit to England, was received with great Marks of Distinction and Favour, by the Court and Nobility; and may be truly said to be one of the best Generals that the late Czarina, who yet had many excellent Commanders, had Rea|son to boast of.

Dunnoter Castle is now demolished. It is situated in the Shire of Kincardin called the Merns. The County is noted for its Timber, having in it up|wards of Five Millions of Fir-trees, besides vast Numbers of other Kinds, planted within these 70 Years by the Gentry, at and about their Seats, and which they are yearly adding to, and improving. Kincardin was formerly the County-town; but that Advantage now, by Statute, belongs to Stonehyne.

Innerbervy, on the Coast, was made a Royal Burgh by King Alexander III.

Paldykirk, so called from Palladius, first Bishop of the Scots, is noted for its annual three Days Fair: The principal Commodity brought to it is coarse Cloth, which is commonly transported to the Netherlands.

On the Lands of Arbuthie and Redeloak, are some Trenches to be seen, cast up by the Danes at one of their Invasions: And round the Hill of Urie is a deep Ditch, where the Scots encamped.

Fordun lies also in this County, famous in antient Times for the Reliques of the aforesaid St. Palladius.

It is also noted for being the Surname of John For|dun, the Scots Historian, Author of the Book called The Scots Chronicon, to which all succeeding Histo|rians of this Nation have been much obliged.

The Earl Mareschal was hereditary Sheriff of this Country.

We proceeded then to Aberdeen, a Place so emi|nent, that it commands some Stay upon it. It stands at the Mouth of two Rivers, and is divided into two Towns or Cities, one called the New, the other the Old Aberdeen, about a Mile distant from each other; one situate on the River Don, the other on the River Dee, from whence they are more properly called Aberdon and Aberdeen.

Aberdon, or the Old Town, lies a Mile Northward from Aberdeen, or the New Town, and is sometimes called Bon-accord, from its Motto. It is situated in the Mouth of the River Don, which is remarkable for the Multitude of Salmon and Perch taken in it.

The Old Town must, without doubt, be very antient; for they tell us the New Aberdeen is supposed to be upwards of 1200 Years old, tho' none of their Registers mention the particular Time of its being built, or by whom. The Cities are not equally situated for Trade, one of the Rivers being broader than the other; and it is the common Opinion, that Part of the old City, called the Monastery, was washed down by the Sea, so that it obliged the Citizens to build farther off: That accordingly they built the New Aberdeen upon the Bank of the other River, upon a Piece of hilly Ground: But this is all Con|jecture, and has Probability only for its Support.

Old Aberdeen was formerly the Bishop's Seat, and has a Cathedral, commonly called St. Machar's, a large and stately Structure, which was antiently much more magnificent: it suffered greatly at the Time of the Reformation, and more since the Re|volution.

The chief Ornament of this Town is the King's College on the South Side of it, a neat and stately Structure.

The Church and Steeple are built of hewn Stone, and the Summit of the latter resembles an Imperial Crown. The Windows of the Church were for|merly esteemed for their Paintings; and something of their Splendor still remains. In the Steeple are two Bells of extraordinary Bigness, besides others.

Close to the Church is a Library well furnished with Books.

This College was founded by Bishop Elphinston, in the Year 1500. and the greatest Part built by him; but King James IV. taking the Patronage upon him, it was called The King's College. The Bull for it was procured from Pope Alexander VI. in 1510. endowing it with as ample Privileges as those of Paris and Bononia.

There are in this College a Principal, a Sub-prin|cipal, who is also one of the Regents, three other Regents, or Professors of Philosophy, a Professor of Humanity or Philology, a Professor of Divinity, a Doctor of Physick, a Professor of the Oriental Tongues, a Professor of the Civil Law, and a Pro|fessor of the Mathematicks. Dr. Frazer has lately been a great Benefactor to it.

New Aberdeen is about a Mile distant, as we have said, from the Old, situated at the Mouth of the River Dee. It is the County Town, and by Con|sequence the Seat of the Sheriffs Courts. It exceeds all the Cities in the North of Scotland for Large|ness, Extent and Beauty. It stands in a wholsome Air, has a great Revenue from its Salmon-fishery, and the Inhabitants are generally very courteous. It stands upon three Hills; the main Part upon the highest, and the Skirts of it extend into the Plain. The Houses are neatly built, are generally four Stories high, or more, and have for the most part

Gardens and Orchards belonging to them, which makes the City pleasant and healthful, and the Pro|spect of it beautiful at a Distance.

From a round Hill, at the West End of the City, flow two Springs, one of clear Water, and another with Water, which, in Taste and Quality, comes very near the Spaw in Germany: Dr. William Barclay wrote a Treatise concerning it.

In the High-street is a Church built of Free-stone, and good Architecture.

In this City stands the Marshal College, founded by George Earl Marshal, in the Year 1593. to which the City has added many Buildings at their own Charge.

In this College, which is a distinct University of itself, are a Principal, four Professors of Philosophy, a Professor of Divinity, and a Professor of Mathe|maticks, and there is lately added a Professor of Physick. It has a very good Library, which was founded by the City, inlarged by the Gifts of several learned Men, and furnished with Mathematical Instruments.

In this City is also a Grammar School, founded by Dr. Dune, having one Master and three Ushers. There is also a Musick School.

The Church called St. Nicolas's, is a handsome Edifice of Free-stone, with a lofty Steeple, re|sembling a Pyramid; it was formerly divided into three Churches. The Body of this Church is adorned with a Tower, and a Steeple with Pinacles.

Here is also a Prison and a Work-house belonging to the Town, likewise an Alms-house, and three Hospitals; and near the Harbour stands the Custom-house. The Market-place is very beautiful and spacious, and the Streets adjoining are very handsome, and most of the Houses are built of Stone, four Stories high, with handsome Sash-windows, and are very well furnished within; the Citizens here

being as gay, as genteel, and perhaps as rich, as in any City in Scotland.

The Bridge at Old Aberdeen, over the Don, con|sists of one immense Arch of Stone, sprung from two Rocks, one on each Side, which serve as a Buttment to the Arch, so that it may be said to have a Foundation coeval with Nature, and which will last as long. The other Bridge is upon the River Dee, West above New Aberdeen, and has seven very stately Arches.

The People of Aberdeen, and indeed of almost all this Country, are generally of the Episcopal Per|suasion; so that, were it not for the legal Establish|ment, the Presbyterian Preachers would have but few Hearers, and slender Incomes: Almost every Parish has a Meeting-house, where the Liturgy is read: At Aberdeen and Peterhead they have beautiful Chapels, and even Organs.

Near the City is a stately Stone Bridge of seven Arches over the Dee, built by Bishop Gawin Dumbar.

The Air of this County, to those who were born in a hotter, seems cold, but is in itself healthful and temperate. The Winter is milder than can be ex|pected from such a Climate, which seems a Wonder to Danes, Poles, and Prussians, when they come into this Country, and consider that with them, during the Winter, there is nothing but perpetual Frost and Snow. The Soil in general is not un|fruitful, if duly cultivated; it produces Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats in abundance, Pease and Beans; nor do they want Roots and Herbs for Food and Physick; and foreign Plants grow very well there, as daily Experience testifies. The mountainous Part of the County affords very good Pasturage, and the other as good Corn.

The adjoining Sea not only furnishes them with plenty of Fish, but reproaches them with their Negligence, when they see the Dutch Fleets conti|nually

fishing on the Coasts, from whence they reap great Gain; but 'tis the Humour of the Inhabitants to apply themselves to the Salmon-fishing, and to neglect that of all other Sorts.

The Quantity of Salmon and Perches, taken in both Rivers, is a kind of Prodigy. The Proprietors are united into a Company, there being so many Shares, of which no Person can enjoy above one at a time. The Profits are very considerable, the Salmon being sent abroad into different Parts of the World, particularly into England, France, the Baltick, and several other Places.

The Herring-fishing is a common Blessing to all this Shore of Scotland, and is like the Indies at their Door, were it properly used, by the Scots in gene|ral: But I must observe, that by this, however, the Merchants of Aberdeen are able to carry on a Trade to Dantzick and Koningsberg, Riga and Narva, Wy|bourgh and Stockholm.

They have also a very good Manufacture of Linen, and likewise of Worsted Stockens, which they send to England in great Quantities, and of which they make some so fine, that I have seen them sold for 14, 20, and 30 Shillings a Pair. They also send them over to Holland, and into the North and East Seas, in large Quantities.

They have also a particular Export here of Pork, pickled and packed up in Barrels, which they sell chiefly to the Dutch for the victualling their East-In|dia Ships and their Men of War, the Aberdeen Pork having the Reputation of being the best cured, for keeping on very long Voyages, of any in Europe.

They export also Corn and Meal; but they ge|nerally bring it from the Firth of Murray, or Cro|marty, the Corn coming from about Inverness, where they have great Quantities.

In a word, the People of Aberdeen are universal Merchants, so far as the Trade of the Northern Part

of the World will extend; and it may be esteemed the third City in Scotland, that is, the next after Edinburgh and Glasgow.

This Shire contains in it Mar, with its Appurte|nances, Birse, Glentaner, Glenmuick, Strathdee, Strathdon, Braes of Mar and Cromar, most part of Buchan, Formartin, Garioch, and Strathbogy.

The latter is a large and antient Barony, watered by the Rivers Dovern and Bogy; it was erected into an Earldom by King James VI. in favour of the Chief of the noble and antient Family of Gordon, whom he afterwards created Marquis of Huntley. Strathbogy is very fruitful in Corn and Pasturage, and is remarkable for the fine Linen-yarn spun by the Women there, and sold to the Merchant.

It is mostly inhabited by Gordons, Vassals to the Duke of Gordon, who has a magnificent Castle here, called Strathbogy, from the Name of the County. There are of this Name, besides the Duke, the Earls of Sutherland, Aboyn, Aberdeen, and late Viscount of Kenmure; likewise a great many Gen|tlemen of Note in other Parts of the Kingdom.

The County of Mar gave Title of Earl to the Chief of the Family of Erskine. The Sheriffdom is the King's Gift.

In Aberdeenshire are Quarries of spotted Marble and Slate, and Pearls are found in their Rivers of a large Size, and fine Colour.

There was formerly a Mint at Aberdeen, as ap|pears by several Pieces of Coin with the Aberdeae upon them, kept in the Closets of the Curious.

Other Towns in this County are;

• 1. Kintore, a Royal Burgh on the Don, which gives the Title of Earl to a Branch of the Family of Keith.
• 2. Inverary, made a Royal Burgh by King Robert Bruce.
• ...

• 3. Peterhead, with a good Harbour.

We ought not to omit, that on the 30th of October 1721. an accidental Fire broke out in Aber|deen, whereby the Commissary-Clerk's Office was suddenly consumed, and at the same time the Re|gisters and Records of all Testaments and Confirma|tions, all Acts of Curacy, Judicial Deeds, and other Writs and Evidences, &c. were intirely burnt and destroyed; which unhappy Accident being likely to be attended with pernicious Effects to Persons Rights and Properties, an Act passed 8 George I. for supply|ing the Records so burnt or lost; and another in the 9th of the same Reign, for making the former more effectual.

The Town of Aberdeen had suffered much by the publick Commotions in Scotland, after the Revolu|tion took place, so that an Act for laying the Duty of Two-penies Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale and Beer sold within the Town, &c. had been imposed by the Scotish Parliament in 1695. and continued by the same in 1707. for enabling them to discharge the Debts incurred on that Occasion. And the last Act being near expired, and Debts still remaining unpaid, an Act passed 1731. for continuing the said Duties, for the following good Purposes; viz. for paying off the remaining Debts of the Town; for building a new Pier on the North-side of the Harbour, for repairing the old Pier on the South-side, which was very much sunk and decay'd; for repair|ing the great Church, called the Old Church, which was in a very decayed Condition; for rebuilding the Town-house, which was also in a very bad State; and for maintaining and carrying on other publick Works for the Benefit of the Town. This Act is to remain in Force for 25 Years; and it may be easily judged, that the Town of Aberdeen will be much improved, when the proposed Works are all absolutely completed.

From Aberdeen the Coast goes on to a Point of Land, which is the farthest North-east Part of Bri|tain, and is called by the Sailors Buchanness, being in the Shire or County of Buchan, Part of which belongs to Aberdeenshire. It was to this Point the French Squadron, with the Pretender on board, in the Reign of Queen Anne, kept their Flight in Sight of the Shore, being thus far pursued by Sir George Byng with the English Fleet; but from hence they steer'd away North-east as if for the Norway Coast, when the English Admiral, seeing no Probability of coming up with them, gave over the Chace; but they altered their Course in the Night, stood away South, and came back to Dunkirk, whence they set out.

On the South-side of the Water of Eugic stands Peterhead, with a Road which will hold 100 Sail of Ships; and at this Place it is High-water, when the Moon is directly South. In many Places of this Shire are great Stones placed circularly, one of the largest in the Middle towards the South, which have the Air of Places of Worship in the Ages of Hea|thenism. The dropping Cave of Slanes is very re|markable, of the petrify'd Substance whereof is made excellent Lime.

This Country, however remote, is full of No|bility and Gentry, and their Seats are seen even unto the extremest Shores: The Family of Frazer carries its Name to Frazerburgh, in the very Northermost Point of the Country. Ereskines, Earls of Marr, had their Family-seat at Kildrummy, in the County of Marr, a little South of this Part of the County, where the late unhappy Earl first set up his Standard for the Pretender. The Hayes, Earls of Errol, are in Buchan; and the Family of Forbes Lord Forbes, and Forbes Lord Pitsligo, are still farther, and the latter on the very Shore of the Caledonian Ocean. The Gordons and Keiths are very numerous also in these Parts.

Mr. Camden relates, that on the Coast of this Country a great Piece of Amber was driven on Shore by the Force of the Sea, as big (to use his own Words) As an Horse. I shall add nothing to the Story, because it is hard to give Credit to it: it is enough that I name my Author; for I could not learn from the Inhabitants, that they ever saw any more of it.

I ought not to omit Innerury, belonging to Garioch in Aberdeenshire, being the Scotsman's Boast; for here Robert Bruce, tho' sick, and carried in a Horse-litter, defeated John Cummins, and those who ad|hered to him, in Favour of Edward I. of England; who held Scotland in Subjection. This was the first Victory King Robert obtained, and laid the Foun|dation of the Overthrow of the English Usurpation in Scotland. Near the same Place also in 1411. Alexander Steuart, Earl of Mar, defeated Donald of the Isles, in the bloody Battle of the Harlow.

From hence, the East Shore of Scotland being at an End, the Land tends away due West; and the Shire of Bamff beginning, you see the Towns of Bamff, Elgin, Frazersburg, and the famous Mona|stery of Kinloss, where the murdered Body of King Duff was after many Years dug up, and discovered to be his by various Tokens.

The Shire of Bamff deserves some Notice for the following Particulars; for that in it is situated Strathyla, which drives a great Trade in Lime, and fat Cattle; and it abounds so with Lime-stone, that they build their Houses with it. They carry on a Trade in fine Linen also, by means of their weekly Markets at Keith, a neighbouring Village. Upon the Banks of the Spey, which runs thro' this County, lies the Bog of Gicht, now called Gordon Castle, the noblest Palace in the North, being the Duke of Gordon's chief Seat, adorned with pleasant Gardens, and a great Park. The Castle appears so large, that

it looks more like a Town than a Nobleman's Seat. The Duke is Proprietor of this Part of the County. Strathave is the paternal Inheritance of his Fa|mily: And his Grace has a fine Estate, and other Seats hereabouts. The late Duke had a little embroiled himself with the Affairs of 1715, and his Son, then Marquis of Huntley, still more; but got off without a Forfeiture, by his Prudence and good Fortune.

The Town of Cullen, an antient Royal Burgh, stands in the Shire of Bamff. It is chiefly noted for its fruitful Soil, and Salmon-fishing; for having no Port, it has little Trade, except for its Corn and Salmon.

The Shire itself takes Name from Bamff, a Burgh Royal, seated at the Mouth of Doverne in the Boyne, where the Sheriff holds his Courts. In it are the Ruins of an old Castle, near which is the Abbey of Deer, formerly belonging to the Cistercian Monks, and founded by William Cumin, Earl of Buchan. In Belvenie is found the Stone of which Alum is made, and in the County of Boyne great Quarries of spotted Marble have been discovered.

Buchan is Part in Aberdeenshire, Part in the Shire of Bamff, one of its principal Towns is Frazersburgh, and Peterhead is another. The latter is a good Market-town, with a Port, and small Harbour with two little Piers for Fishing; but being so near Aberdeen, has not those Helps and Advantages, that might be otherwise probably given to it; so that at low Water it is all dry, and the smallest Ships lie aground in it.

The Earl of Saltoun has very lately built, (1738) at Frazersburgh, a most excellent new Pier and Bulwark, all of Free-stone; which renders that Harbour as safe and commodious as any on the East Coast; so that 30 Ships may winter there at once, with great Safety: The Water at full Sea is 18 or 20 Feet.

From the Point of Land, called Buchanness the Ships begin their Accounts for their several Voyages; what they call their Departure: As in England, they do from Wintertonness, on the North-east Part of Norfolk, and from the Downs for the Voy|ages to the Southward.

From Fifeness, which is the Northermost Point, on the Mouth of Edinburgh Firth, being the Souther|most Land of Fife to this Point of Buchanness, the Land lies almost due North and South, and the Shore is the Eastermost Land of Scotland. The Distance between them is 33 Leagues, 1 Mile, which is just 100 Miles; tho' the Mariners say, that measuring by the Sea, it is but 28; and from Wintertonness, near Yarmouth, to this Point call'd Buchanness, is just 300 Miles.

The River or Firth of Tay opens into the Sea, about four Leagues North from Fifeness; and as there is a Light-house on the Isle of May, as I have said before, in the Mouth of the Firth of Forth at Edinburgh, a little South of this Point, call'd Fife|ness; there are likewise two Light-houses at the Entrance of the Firth of Tay, for the Directions of the Sailors, when they are bound into that River, and particularly for their avoiding the two Sands, which lie off from the South-side of the Entrance.

Buchanness is generally also the first Land of Great Britain, which the Ships make in their Voyages Home from Archangel in Russia, or from their Whale-fishing Voyages to Greenland and Spits-bergen in the North Seas: And near this Point, at Pitsligo, a great Ship was cast away in Queen Elizabeth's Time, bound Home from Archangel, having on board the first Embassador sent by the Great Duke of Muscovy to any of the Christian Princes of Europe, he being commissioned to treat with Queen Elizabeth for a League of Peace and Commerce. He likewise lost a most valuable Present, designed for the Queen, of

rich and costly Furrs, in those Days, reputed in|estimable. The Embassador was happily saved, and brought on Shore by the People of Pitsligo; but the Ship and all the Goods were lost.

From this Point of Easterly Land all that great Bay, or Inlet of the Sea, reaching quite to the North of Scotland, is called Murray Firth, and the Northermost Point is Dungsby-head, which is the North-east Point of Caithness, and opens to Pentland Firth. By Pentland Firth you are to understand the Passage of the Sea beyond Caithness, between Scot|land and the Isles of Orkney. What is call'd Murray Firth, is not, like many others, the Mouth of a River, as that of Edinburgh or Tay, but is an open Bay in the Sea, as the Bay of Biscay, or the Gulph of Mexico are; and reaches, as I have said, from Peters-head, to Dungsby-head, opposite to the Orkneys, the Distance of 79 Miles; but it is almost twice as far by Land, because of the Depth of that Bay, which obliges us to travel from Pitsligo West, near 70 Miles, till we come to Inverness.

This County of Buchan is more to be taken Notice of from what is to be seen on the Sea Shore than in the Land; for the Country is moun|tainous, and in some Places not very fertile; but as we coasted along West, we came into a much better Country, particularly the Shires of Bamff, which I have already mention'd, Elgin, and the County of Murray, from whence the Bay I just now described, is called Murray Firth.

Murray is a pleasant Country, the Soil fruitful, water'd with fine Rivers, and full of good Towns, and Gentlemens Seats more than could be expected in so remote a Part of the Kingdom.

This Country is a Plain for between 20 and 30 Miles together, and the Soil is by that means render'd more fruitful and rich, and the Tempera|ture of the Air more soften'd, than in other Parts of

Scotland; insomuch that the Harvest here, and in the Vale of Strathbogy, and all the Country to Inver|ness, is observed to be more early than in Northum|berland, nay, than in Derbyshire, and even some Parts of the more Southerly Counties in England; as particularly in the East of Kent and Sussex. As a Confirmation of this, I affirm that I have seen the new Wheat of this Country and Inverness brought to Market to Edinburgh, before the Wheat at Edin|burgh has been fit to reap; and yet the Harvest about Edinburgh is thought to be as forward as in most Parts, even of England itself. In a Word, it is usual in Murray and the Country about it, to begin with their Harvest in the Month of July, and it is not very unusual to have new Corn fully ripe and thresh'd out, shipped off, and brought to Edinburgh to Sale, within the Month of August.

The River Lossie in this County is famous for Sal|mon; there being annually pickled and exported from 80 to 100 Lasts, all taken in a few Months of the Sum|mer, and in a Space of one Mile, at a Village called Germach. It abounds with Fish to the very Head; but still the greatest Quantity is used for home Con|sumption, and taken either with hooked Tridents by Day, or Wicker Baskets, or little Boats covered with Hides, by Night. None but the Natives, who are used to them, will venture into those Boats. The common Drink in these Parts is Ale, and sometimes Beer, and they have good French Wine very cheap, as I and my Company experienced; but the Inha|bitants prefer Aqua Vitae of their own extracting from Ale-dregs and Spices, to much richer Wines than the French; of this they drink plentifully themselves, and are very liberal of it to their Friends. And a Bottle of this Liquor, and some Cheese, will make a Murray Man undertake the greatest Winter-Journeys, without wishing for any other Provision.

This County is divided into two Shires; the greater, called the Shire of Elgin; the other, the Shire of Nairn. The Town of Nairn lies on the Mouth of the River of that Name; along which lie the Seats of many Persons of Quality.

Near the Castle of Caddel or Calder, on that River, is a Vein of Free-stone, and many Signs of Copper.

Tarnaway Castle, on the River Findorn, in this County, is an old Castle and Seat belonging to the Earls of Murray.

A little lower on the other Side, stands the Burgh of Forress, in an exceeding pleasant Situation. The Kings of Scotland formerly resided here, in a Castle that is now gone to Ruin; and lower, formerly, stood the noble Abbey of Kinloss.

On the Road to Forress is a large Pillar of one Stone, being a Monument of a Victory obtained by King Malcolm Mac Kenneth over Sueno King of Denmark; the Inscription is now worn out. Be|twixt this Place and Elgin, are numberless Seats of the Quality.

In this rich County, on the River Lossie, which rises a few Miles above it, and empties itself into the Sea a few Miles below it, lies Elgin, formerly a Bishop's See. It is situated in a very fruitful Soil, tho' somewhat sandy. The Ruins of the Castle are still to be seen on the East End of the Town; tho' demolish'd so long ago, as the Wars of the Danes. There was a noble Cathedral here, which for Large|ness, Splendor, Magnificence and Workmanship, had hardly its Equal in the Kingdom. The usual Place of Residence of the Bishop was at the Castle of Spynie, within a Mile of the Town, a very noble Seat, with fine Gardens and Woods.

But tho' the Town of Elgin has Reason to be proud of its Situation, it was not very rich in its Town Revenues; for it had long laboured under

heavy and burdensome Debts; which being increased by the Rebellion in 1715. put a Stop to divers of its new publick Works, and made several others run into Decay. At the same time the River Lossie having very insufficient Banks, the Chanel of it became choaked with Sand, which made it subject to overflow; and moreover, the Harbour of Lossie itself, which may be called the Port of Elgin, lying not far from it, became ruinous and decayed, to the great Prejudice of Persons trading in the Murray Firth, as well as to the Town. For all these Reasons, and in order to inlarge and im|prove, as well as repair, the said Harbour of Lossie, an Act passed in the Year 1721, laying a Duty of Two-penies Scots on every Scots Pint of Ale or Beer, that should be vended within the said Town and its Liber|ties; so that it bids fair to make as flourishing a Figure as it has done for Centuries past.

Above Elgin, Forress and Nairn, lies that Part of the Country called, The Bra•• of Murray, no way comparable to the lower Part for Fruitfulness; and beyond this are Mountains, Woods, and green Valleys; particularly Strathherin, well inha|bited, and abounding with little Towns and Vil|lages, and Strathnairn, a still better Soil, and possessed by several Gentlemen. Strathherin also abounds with Lakes, Mountains and Streams.

In this County lies Lochmoy, with an Island, where the Laird of Mackintosh (a Name well known in Eng|land, as well as Scotland, by means of the famous Bri|gadier of that Name, who was taken Prisoner at the Battle of Preston, escaped out of Newgate, and lately died in Peace in Scotland) has his Seat. This Tribe is called Clan Chattau; and are numerous in this County.

But to say a few Words more of Elgin, before we leave this County: Gentlemen of all Parties and Opinions, as if this Town was the Court for this Part of the Island, leave their Highland Habitations in the Winter, and come to live at Elgin, with very

engaging Freedom; so that it is a Place of greater Resort than could be imagined, at the Distance of 450 measured Miles from London, and more, if we must go by Edinburgh.

This rich Country continues with very little In|termission, till we come to Strathnairn, or the Valley of Nairn, where it extends a little farther in Breadth towards the Mountains, and is not inferior to the other in Fruitfulness: From the western Part of this County you may observe that the Land goes away again to the North; and, as if you were to enter into another Island beyond Britain, you find a large Lake or Inlet from the Sea of Murray, going on West, as if it were to cut through the Island; for we could see no End of it, nor could some of the Country-people tell us how far it reached, but that it went beyond Lochaber: So that we thought, till our Maps and further Inquisition informed us, it had joined the Western Ocean.

After we had travelled about twelve Miles, and descended from a rising Ground, upon which we then were; we perceived the Lake contracted in one par|ticular Place to the ordinary Size of a River, as if designed by Nature to give Passage to the Inhabitants to converse with the Northern Part; and then it opened again to its former Breadth, and continued in the Form of a large Lake, as before, for many more Miles than we could see; being in the Whole, according to Mr. Camden, 23 Miles long; but if it be taken on both Sides the Pass, 'tis above 35 Miles in Length.

This Situation must necessarily make the narrow Part a most important Pass, from the more Southerly Parts of Scotland to the Northern Countries, which are beyond it. We have been told, the Romans ne|ver conquered thus far, and the Conquests of Oliver Cromwell have been much magnified on this Ac|count; but if what Mr. Camden records, and is confirmed by other Accounts from the Men of

Learning and Observation, be true, this must be a Mistake; for we are told, that near Bean Castle in the County of Nairn, there was found, in the Year 1406. a fine Marble Vessel curiously carved, which was full of Roman Coins of several Sorts; also several old Forts or Mounts have been seen here, which, by their Remains, evidently shewed themselves to be Roman.

I now entered the Shire of Inverness, abounding with large Woods of Firr and Oak, and having in it some Iron Mines. It contains Badenock, Locha|ber, and the South and West Parts of Rosse, and the Isle of Sky; of all which I shall speak, as they offer in the Course I took.

In the narrow Pass mentioned above, over the Lake stands the Town and Fortress of Inverness, that is, a Town on the inner Bank of the River Ness. The Situation of it (as I have said before) intimates, that it is a Place of Strength; and accord|ingly it has a Castle, founded in antient Times to command the Pass: And some Authors write, that it was antiently a Royal House for the Kings of Scotland. Be that as it will, Oliver Cromwell thought it a Place of such Importance, that he built a strong Citadel here, and kept a stated Garison always in it, and sometimes more than a Garison; finding it needful to have a large Body of his old veteran Troops posted here to preserve the Peace of the Country, and keep the Highlanders in Awe, which they did effectually all his Time.

It is observed, that at the End of those troublesome Days, when the Troops on all Sides came to be dis|banded, and the Men dispersed, abundance of Eng|lish Soldiers settled in this fruitful Part of the Country, from whence it received two Advantages:

• 1. They learnt the Art of Husbandry in full Per|fection, which they did not understand before; which, with the Help of a rich Soil, has rendered this Part

• of the Country more fruitful than the rest of Scot|land to this Day. And to this it is in some measure owing, that the Harvest is so early, and the Corn so good, as is observed above.
• 2. As Cromwell's Soldiers initiated them thus into the Arts and Industry of the Husbandman, so they left them the English Accent upon their Tongues, which they likewise preserve to this Day; for they speak perfect English, even much better than in the most Southerly Provinces of Scotland; nay, some will say, as well as at London itself.

Their Tongue is not only Anglicised, but their Palates too; their Way of Eating and Cookery, Dress and Behaviour, is according to the Southern Mode: I wish they do not, in time, degenerate into Luxury, and forget that military Original which first reformed them.

The Fort which was then built, and afterwards demolished, has been restored since the Revolution, and a Garison was always kept here by King William, for the better regulating the Highlands; which Post was of singular Importance in the Time of the In|surrection of the Earl of Marr for the Pretender; when, tho' his Party took it, they were driven out again by the Country with the Assistance of the Earl of Sutherland, and several other of the Nobility and Gentry, who stood fast to the King's Interest.

Inverness may be said to be a pleasant, clean, and well-built Town. There are some Merchants in it, and it has a good Share of Trade. In it the Sheriff keeps his Court. It consists of two large handsome Streets, and has a stately Stone Bridge of seven large Arches over the River Ness, where (as I said before) it grows narrow between the Sea and the Lake. The Water of this River is almost always warm, and all the Year long is never so cold as to freeze; nay, in the sharpest Winter, if Cakes of Ice are thrown into it, they will be quickly thaw'd by its

Warmth. Small Vessels may come up to the Town; but larger Ships, which often come thither for Corn, are forced to lie at some Distance East from it.

But it has been lately improved, and is still far|ther improving; for in the Year 1718 an Act passed, for laying a Duty of a Sixth of a Peny Sterling on every Pint of Ale, &c. sold within the Town and its Privileges, for building a Church and making a Harbour there. The Preamble to the Act, giving a Description of the Place, and the Reasons of applying for it, I shall insert, and is to the fol|lowing Effect:

That the Town of Inverness is situate near the Sea, and very capable of Improvements in its Trade and Commerce, and having but a very small publick Revenue, incumbered with Debts, and those in|creased by the Expence the Inhabitants were at in opposing the Rebellion of 1715. And the Church of the said Town, beside, being ruinous, was not large enough to contain the Inhabitants; for the effecting of these good Purposes the said Act was passed.

This Act was to be in Force for 19 Years only; and the first five Years it produced so well, that the Magistrates of Inverness entered upon a Design greatly to inlarge and improve their Harbour; in order to which they purchased Grounds, rented Quarries, built Boats for transporting Stone, deepened their Harbour, erected Bulwarks and Quays; so that it was made much more commodious than ever: But the next 13 Years the Produce of the Duties was so low, occasioned by the excessive Use of run Tea and Brandy, which People could buy so cheap, that the Consumption of Beer and Ale was greatly lessened, and they having run much behind-hand, were forced to apply for a further Continuation of the Act; and accordingly, in the 11th Year of King George II. an Act passed for continuing the same for

21 Years more, for paying the Debts contracted, and effecting the other good Purposes I have mentioned. Which, when done, will make Inver|ness a Place of as great Account as any in the North of Scotland.

When we are over the Bridge of Inverness, you enter that which we truly call the North of Scot|land, and others the North Highlands; in which are several distinct Shires, but cannot call for a par|ticular Description, because they are all one un|distinguished Range of Mountains and Woods, over|spread with vast and almost uninhabited Rocks and Steeps filled with Deer innumerable of various Kinds; among which are some of those the Antients called Harts and Roebucks, with over-grown Stags and Hinds of the Red-deer Kind.

Before I describe this frightful Country, it is ne|cessary to observe, that Scotland may be divided into four Districts, which I have not seen any of our Geographers do before me; yet, I believe, may not be an improper Measurement for such as would form a due Idea of the Whole in their Minds.

• 1. The South-land, or that Part of Scotland South of the River Tay, drawing a Line from the Tay, about Perth, to Loch-lomond, and down to Dumbar|ton, and the Bank of Clyde.
• 2. The Middle, or Mid-land, being all the Country from the Tay and the Lough-lomond, North to the Lake of Ness and Aber, including a long Slope to the South, taking in the Western Highlands of Argyll and Lorn, and the Isles of Isla and Jura.
• 3. The North-land, being all the Country be|yond Inverness, and the Lough or River Ness, North, drawing the Line over the narrow Space of Glen|gary; between the Ness and Aber, and bounded by them both from the Eastern to the Western Sea.
• ...

• 4. The Islands, being all the Western and North|ern Islands, the Hebrides, Skye, Orkneys, and other Isles of Shetland.

According to this Description, having passed the Bridge over the River Ness, I am now entered on the third Division of Scotland called the North-land. Here are not only the best Hawks of all Kinds, but Eagles in great Numbers, which prey upon the young Fawns when they fall first, and upon Wild Fowl, with which this Part of the Country abounds.

The Rivers and Lakes also in this Country are so prodigiously full of Salmon, that it is hardly credible what Quantities are taken in the Spey, the Nairn, the Ness, and other Rivers hereabout.

The several Countries beyond the Ness are, Ross, Sutherland, Strathnavern, Caithness, and beyond those the Islands of Orkney and Shetland.

Sutherland is called the Shire of Dornoch, from the chief Town of the Province called Dornoch, a Royal Burgh, noted for a Castle belonging to the Earl of Sutherland; for its Cathedral Church for the Diocese of Caithness, which once was Part of this Shire; and for its four annual Fairs. It has three remarkable Forests, besides abundance of other Woods, which afford pleasant Hunting and Fowling. One sort of Bird is peculiar to this Country, called Knug, which resembles a Parrot, and digs its Nest in the Trunks of Oak, with its Beak. There are about 60 Lakes in this County: The greatest is Lochskin, 14 Miles in Length; in many of them are Islands very pleasant for Summer Habitations. In the Isle of Brora, the Earl of Sutherland has a House, which he makes use of when he comes to hunt Deer, which abound in it; and in some of the Lakes and Rivers of this County, as well as in the Rivers of Aberdeen, and Rosse, are found Pearls of great Value. In short, this Shire so abounds with Lakes, Rivers, and Bays, that there is scarce a Farm in the whole County,

but is washed either with fresh or salt Water, so that the Inhabitants have Store of Fish and Fowl. The Beer or Big in this County is reckoned excellent. It has also Silver Mines, and excellent Iron Mines, Coal Mines, and Quarries of Free-stone, but much neglected. It has many commodious Harbours for Ships to export its Commodities; which are Cod, Salmon, salt Beef, Wool, Skins, Hides, Tallow, Butter, Cheese, &c. The Bays and Coasts also abound with Seals, have sometimes Whales, and Shell Fish of all sorts.

The Earl of Sutherland has a Castle beyond In|verness, called Dunrobin, situate on the Eastern Shore, of which his Lordship was sent down by Sea to take an early Possession in the late Rebellion; and which if he had not done, would soon have fallen into the Hands of the late Earl of Marr's Party; but his coming timely thither, prevented him and the Country on that Side, from joining the Troops of the Pretender. In the Gardens of this Seat, tho' so Northerly, Saffron grows very well, and comes to Maturity.

Strathnavern is Part of Sutherland, and derives its Name from Strath, a Valley, situated on the River Navern, which runs thro' it. The Country is moun|tainous, and formerly was noted for breeding greater Numbers of ravenous Wolves than any other in Scotland. The Bays and Rivers are full of Fish; it is very woody, and many Lakes are in the Val|leys. There are several Monuments in it, of Victories gained over the Danes, particularly one at Enbo, which is a Stone Cross, said to be over a Danish King. The Inhabitants are great Hunters, and despise those who are not; so that Venison with them is a common Dish. The Situation of the Country not admitting of Towns, the Inhabitants live up and down in small Villages. On the Northern Coast of this County are several Islands.

Of the many Lakes, Lochnavern and Lochyol are the largest, and the latter affords an Island which is inhabited in the Summer time. Borwe and Young, are the Places of most Note, the latter the principal Seat of the Lord Rea, Chief of the Mackays, who is the principal Proprietor of Strathnavern; but holds it of the Earl of Sutherland, to whose eldest Son it gives the Title of Lord. The Earls of Suther|land were formerly of the Name of Sutherland, to the Heiress of which a Son of the House of Gordon mar|ried, from whom the present Earl is descended. They have a long time claimed Precedency, as the first Earls of the Kingdom, and in order to recover it, have re-assumed their former Name. They have great Royalties, as being Admirals of that, and some of the neighbouring Counties, and all the Gentlemen of Sutherland hold of them. Lord Duffus is descended of this Family. The Earl is Hereditary Sheriff of it. The County has several Mountains of white Marble, as we were told.

North of the Mouth of the River Nesse, is the famous Cromarty Bay, or Cromarty Firth, noted for being the finest Harbour, with the least Business, perhaps, of any in Britain. It is 15 Miles long, and in many Places two Miles broad; and, like Milford-haven in Wales, is able to receive the Royal Navy of Great-Britain both to go out and come in with Safety; but, for want of Trade, this noble Harbour, which by Geographers and Mariners, is called Portus Salutis, or the Harbour of Safety, is become almost useless.

The Shire of Cromarty is denominated from a Royal Burgh, standing upon the Firth of Cromarty. The Waters of Connel are celebrated for the Pearls found in them. Of great Part of this County the Earl of Cromarty is Sheriff and Proprietor. The Straths or Valleys upon the Water-side abound with Woods. Particularly, upon the Hills is great

Store of all sorts of Game; also near Alserig, upon the Waters of Braan, and on the Carron, are great Woods of Fir.

All the County beyond the River Nesse, and the Loch flowing into it, is called Caithness, and extends to the Northermost Land in Scotland. It is divided from Sutherland by the Mountain Ord, and a Tract of Mountains running from it as far as Knochfin.

Some People tell us they have Lead, Copper, and Iron in this Part of Scotland; and I am very much inclined to believe it; but it seems reserved for a future and more industrious Age to search into it. Should a Time come, when these hidden Treasures of the Earth shall be discovered and improved, this Part of Scotland would be no longer esteemed poor; for such a Production would soon change the Face of Things, bring Wealth and Commerce to it, fill the Harbours with Ships, the Towns with People, and by consuming the Provisions, occasion the Soil to be cultivated, the Fish cured, the Cattle con|sumed at Home, and thereby diffuse Prosperity all around them.

Our Writers have represented the Inhabitants here wild and barbarous: They were so formerly, per|haps; but we see the Mackenzies, Macleods, Suther|lands, M^c Leans, M^c Donalds, Gordons, M^c Keys, Macfergusons, M^c Intoshes, and others sprung from thence, equally accomplished for the Court or Camp.

It must be owned, here are but few Towns; the People live dispersed in Clans under a kind of Vas|salage, submitting to their Lords as their lawful Monarchs, and many of them acknowledge no other; tho' this too, is in a manner got over, and the Clans are less dependent on their Chiefs, than they used to be, by virtue of an Act of Parliament made for that very Purpose.

Their Employment is chiefly Hunting for their Food, tho' they also breed large Quantities of Black

Cattle, with which they pay their Lairds or Leaders the Rent of the Lands. These Cattle are driven annually to England to be sold, and are bought up chiefly in the Counties of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Essex; as I have mentioned in several Places in my Tour.

There are many little Towns and Villages, besides Gentlemens Seats in Caithness, as far North as it is: But the People are more addicted to good Living within Doors, than to shewy Edifices, or fine Seats. The best House in it, is Castle Sinclair, so called from the Name of the Earls of Sinclair, whose Seat it is, and they have several other Castles in the County. The Lord Sinclair of Ravensheugh in Fife is chief of the Name. His Ancestors formerly possessed Orkney and Shetland, and were allied to the Royal Family of Denmark. But one of the Family squandered away his Estate, and among the rest, these Islands; and got for it the inglorious Title of, William the Waster. The chief Town and Royal Burgh in Caithness is Wick or Weich, whence it is called the Shire of Weich. This Town lies conveniently for Trade, and has a good Harbour for Ships on the Eastern Coast. It is the Residence of the Sheriff, or his Officer.

Thurso, another Town with a good Harbour, lies also on the Northern Coast, in a little Bay. The Isles of Orkney and Shetland, I refer to the Account of the Isles.

And I shall observe, once for all, that I am the more particular in my Description of these Northern Parts of Scotland, because they are least known, and less valued and esteemed than they deserve.

This County is surrounded with the Sea, and those two great Inlets of Water, mentioned above, called the Ness and the Abre: So that it forms a Peninsula, by means of that small Neck of Land of about eight Miles long, which Mr. Camden calls the Garrow or Glengarrough, others Glengary. Were

it not for this, the whole Division of the North|land would be a distinct Island, separated from all the rest of Great Britain, as effectually as the Ork|neys or the Isle of Skye is from this.

That Part which lies to the East, is open to the Sea, without Cover; the West and the North are, in a manner, surrounded with Out-works as a Defence to break off the raging Ocean from the North; for the Western Islands on one Side, and the Orkneys on the other, lie as so many advanced Fortifications or Redoubts, to combat that Enemy at a Distance.

From Dunrobin Castle you have nothing of Note offers itself, either by Sea or Land, but an extended Shore lying North and South, without Towns, and without Harbours; and as there are none of the former to be found, so there are none of the last wanting.

The Land thus extended lies North and South to Dungsby-head, which is the utmost Extent of it, on the East-side of Britain North, and is distant from Cromarty 18 Leagues North. From this Point of Dingsby or Dungsby-head, as I observed before of Buchan and Winterton, the Sailors take their Distances, and keep their Accounts in their going farther North; e. g.

From this Point of Dingsby-head to the Fair-isle or Faro, which is the first of Shetland, or the last of the Orkneys, (call it which you will; for it lies be|tween both) is 25 Leagues, or 75 Miles.

From the same Dungsby-head to Sumburgh-head, that is, to Shetland, is 32 Leagues, or 96 Miles, and to Lerwick Fort in Shetland 110 Miles.

Thus from Buchanness to Sumburgh-head in Shet|land, is 47 Leagues.

And from Wintertonness near Yarmouth, on the Coast of Norfolk, to Buchanness, on the Coast of Aberdeen, is just 100 Leagues. So from Winterton to Shetland is 147 Leagues, or 431 Miles.

I am now to observe, that we are here at the ex|tremest Point of the Island of Great Britain; and

that here the Land bears away West, leaving a large Streight or Sea, which they call Pictland, or Pentland Firth, and which divides between the Island of Great Britain, and the Isles of the Orkneys; a Passage broad and fair; for 'tis not less than five Leagues over, and has a sufficient Depth of Water for Ships to sail in: But the Tides are so fierce, so uncertain, and the Gusts and sudden Squalls of Wind so fre|quent, that very few Merchant Ships care to venture thro' it, and the Dutch East-India Ships, which come North about, (as 'tis called) in their Return from India, keep all farther off, and chuse to come by Fair-isle, in the Passage between the Islands of Orkney and Shetland; whither they generally send their Men of War to meet them, being sure of not missing them in so narrow a Passage.

But the Passage here is much broader, being at least nine Leagues from North Ranalsha, the farthest Island of the Orkneys, to Fair-isle, and five more from Fair-isle to Shetland: So that it is 14 Leagues clear open Sea between the Orkneys and Shetland, with only a small Island in the Way, which has nothing dangerous about it.

In the Passage between the Land's End of Britain and the Orkneys, is a small Island, which our Mari|ners call Stroma, Mr. Camden, and others, Sowna; and is much spoken of as dangerous for Ships: But I see no room to record any thing of that kind, any more than the Report, that it is haunted by Witches and Spirits, which draw Ships on Shore to their Misfortune.

At Dungsby-head is the most Northerly Land of Great Britain, where, in the Month of June, after a clear Day, we could see to read the smallest Print, and to write distinctly, all Night long, without the Help of a Candle.

No wonder the antient Mariners, be they Phoe|nician or Carthaginian, who knew nothing of the Motion of the heavenly Bodies, when they were

driven thus far, were surprised to find they had lost the steady Rotation of Day and Night, which they thought had spread over the whole Globe. They imagined the Elysian Fields must lie this Way, when they found they were come already to the Realm of everlasting Day.

From hence West we go along the Shore of the Firth, which they call Pentland, where is the famous House called John a Grot's. We set our Horses Feet into the Sea, on the most Northerly Land, as the People say, of Britain, tho', I think, Dungsby|head is as far North. 'Tis certain, however, the Difference is but very small, being either of them in the Latitude of 59⅙ North, and Shetland reaching above two Degrees farther. The Dominions of Great Britain are extended from the Isle of Wight, in the Latitude of 50 Degrees, to the Isles of Unsta in Shetland, in the Latitude of 61 Degrees 30 Minutes, being 10 Degrees, or full 600 Miles, in Length; which Island of Unst or Unsta, being the most remote of the Isles of Shetland to the North-east, lies 167 Leagues from Wintertonness in Nor|folk.

Here we found, however mountainous and wild the Country appeared, the People extremely well furnished with Provisions, especially four Sorts in great Plenty; two of them sufficient for a common Table, the other two the Splendor of the greatest

• 1. Very good Bread, as well Oat Bread as Wheat, tho' the last not so cheap as the first.
• 2. Venison exceeding plentiful, and at all Seasons, young or old, which they kill with their Guns where|ever they find it, for there is no Restraint; on which Account all the Highlanders have Fire-arms, and become excellent Marksmen.
• 3. Salmon in such Plenty as is scarce credible, and consequently so cheap, that to those who have any Substance to buy with, it is not worth giving

• themselves any Trouble to catch it. This they eat fresh in the Season, and at other times cured by being dried in the Sun, and so preserved all the Year.
• 4. They have no want of Cows and Sheep, but the latter are so wild, that sometimes, were they not, by their own Disposition, used to flock together, they would be much harder to kill than the Deer.

From hence to the West Point of the Passage to Orkney is near 20 Miles, which may be called the End of the Island of Britain, which faces directly to the North Pole, so that the Tail of the Great Bear is seen just over your Head. The Day is here, in Summer, said to be 18 Hours long, the Sun remaining so long above the Horizon; and when he is set, he makes so small an Arch of a Circle below the Horizon, that it is much above a Twilight all the Night; but it must be remembered, that the dark Nights take in Winter their Turn, and are protracted to as great a Degree.

Yet it is observable here, that they have more temperate Winters, generally speaking, than we have in the most Southerly Part of the Island; and parti|cularly, the Water in some of the Rivers, as in the Ness, for Example, never freezes (as I have observed before); which is accounted for from the Nearness of the Sea, which filling the Air with salt Vapours, sheathes, as it were, the acute Particles of the Cold.

For the same Reason the Snows are not so deep, nor do they lie so long upon the Ground, as in other Places. The Summits indeed of the high Hills, whither these Vapours cannot reach, are continually covered with Snow, and perhaps have been so for many Ages, so that this Country, if any in the World, agrees with the following Description:

— Vast wat'ry Lakes, which spread below, And Mountains cover'd with eternal Snow.

On the most inland Parts of this Country, espe|cially in the Shire of Ross, they have vast Woods of Fir-trees for 15 or 20 Miles in Length, not planted by Mens Hands, as I have described in the Southern Part of Scotland; but as they came out of the Hands of Nature, and nourished by her Hand-maid, Time. If we may believe the Inhabitants, they are large enough to make Masts for the biggest Ships; and yet are of no Service, merely for want of the Con|venience of Water-carriage to bring them away. But methinks, rather than they should remain an use|less Burden to the Earth, they might be cut down and burnt, from whence might be drawn vast Quan|tities of Pitch, Tar, Rosin, Turpentine, &c. which is of easier Carriage, and would well answer the Trouble. Indeed an Attempt has been made of this kind for Pot-ash; but it did not succeed, rather thro' the Fault of the Undertakers at London, than any thing else.

And now leaving the Northern Prospect, we pass the opposite Point West from Dungsby-head, and which the People call Farro-head, tho' Mr. Camden calls these two Points by two different Names: The East Point, or Dungsby-head, he calls Virvedrum Promontorium. The West Point, or Farro-head, he calls Sarvedrum Promontorium.

From hence the vast Western Atlantick Ocean appears, for which the Geographers have not agreed upon a Name, there being no Country to derive it from.

And now we were to turn our Faces South; for as to the Islands of this Sea, which make the fourth Division of Scotland, as I mentioned before, I shall take notice of them under one Head, in the Con|clusion of my Tour.

In our Attempt to come down to the Southward by the Coast of Tayne, and the Shire of Ross, we should have been extremely disappointed, and per|haps

have been obliged to get a Ship or Bark, to have carried us round the Isle of Skye into Locha|ber, had it not been for the extraordinary Courtesy of some of the Gentlemen of the Country.

On the other hand, we unexpectedly met here some English Men, who were employ'd by Merchants in the South, to take and cure a large Quantity of White-fish, and afterwards of Herrings, on account of Trade. Here we had not only the Civility of their Assistance and Accommodation in our Journey, but the Pleasure of seeing what Progress they made in their Undertaking.

As for the Herrings, the Quantity of them was prodigious. The Shoal was beginning to come, when we first came to the Head of Pentland Firth; and in a Fortnight's time, the Body of their num|berless Shoals began to appear; but before we left the Coast, you would have ventur'd to say of the Sea, as they do of the River Tibiscus, or Thiesse in Hun|gary, that it was one third Water, and two thirds Fish. The Operation of taking them could hardly be called Fishing; for they did little more than dip for them into the Water, and take them up. I make no Scruple to say, that if there had been 10,000 Ships to have loaded with them, they might all have been filled. The Fish did not seem to stay, but passed on to the South, that they might supply other Parts, and make way also for those innumerable Shoals which were to come after.

Had the Quantity of White-fish been any way proportioned to the Herrings, there would, no doubt, have been such Encouragement to the Merchants, that they would never have given it over; but they found it would not fully answer: Not but that there were great Quantities of Cod, and the Fish were size|able and good; but as they are taken with Hook and Line, they could not with any Dispatch get a suffi|cient

Loading, or lay up enough in large Quanti|ties in the Season.

The Bay of Tayne is unsafe for Ships, runs a great way up into the County, divides Rosse from Suther|land, and ends at the Promontory of Tarbat. We found the Town of Tayne, and some other Villages, tolerably well inhabited, and some Trade also, oc|casioned principally by the Communication with the Western Islands, and also by the Herring-fishing, the Fishing-boats from other Parts often putting into those Ports; for all their Coast is full of Loughs and Rivers, and other Openings, which make very good Harbours for Shipping; and what is remarkable, some of those Loughs are infinitely full of Herrings, even where, as they tell us, they have no Commu|nication with the Sea, so that they must have, in all Probability, been put into them alive by some parti|cular Hands, and have multiplied there, as we find at this Time, if they have not some Communi|cations with the Sea, which are not discovered to the Inhabitants.

We could understand no more of what the Peo|ple commonly said on this Side, than if we had been in Morocco; all the Remedy we had was, that we found most of the Gentlemen spoke French, and some few broad Scotish. It was indeed upon other Accounts much for our Convenience to make the common People believe we were French.

Should we go about here to give you an Account of the Religion of the People in this Country, it would be an unpleasant Work, and perhaps scarce gain Credit. You would hardly believe, that in a Christian Island, as this is said to be, there should be People who know so little of the Christian Religion, as not to distinguish Sunday from a common Day of Labour, or the Worship of God from an ordinary Meeting for Conversation. I am unwilling to re|cord so ungrateful a Truth, which may in time find

Redress; but I cannot but say that his Majesty's Gift of 1000l. paid annually to the Assembly of Scotland, for sending Ministers or Missionaries for the propagating Christian Knowledge in the High|lands, is certainly one of the most needful Charities that could have been thought of, and truly worthy of a King; and, if prudently applied, as there is Reason to believe it is, may in time dispel that Cloud of Ignorance that has so far overspread this unhappy Part of the Country. The People have the Bible in their own Language, the IRS; and the Missionaries are obliged to preach to them, and examine and catechise their Children in the IRS Language, so that we are not to despair of having this Country as well instructed in time as other Parts of Britain.

The Shire of Tayne, with the little Shire of Cromarty, and part of the Shire of Inverness, com|prehends the whole Country called Rosse. The first Tract towards the South-west in the County of Rosse, is Kintail, separated from the Isle of Skye by a narrow Firth. Next is a little Track called Gle|nelebeg, the paternal Estate of the Earl of Seaforth, whose chief Seat is called Castle Ylendoven, lying in an Island of the above-mentioned Firth. Farther North, on the same Coast, lies Loch-ew, with thick Woods, where Iron was formerly made. A little farther North, Loch-brien runs into this County, and is remarkable for its noble annual Fishery of Herrings.

The Peninsula which lies betwixt the Bay of Cromarty and Murray is called Ardmeanach, upon the Shore of which stands the Town called, the Chanonry of Ross, formerly a Bishop's See. It is plea|santly situated in a Valley betwixt fruitful Hills. It had once a stately Cathedral and Castle, where the Bishop dwelt. Here the late Earl of Seaforth had a noble House. Beaulieu, formerly a pleasant and rich Abbey, lies near the Mouth of the River

Farrar, and is now possessed by the Lord Lovat. The Earl of Seaforth had near it a Castle called Kildun. There are other Seats of antient Families in this County, which my Compass will not let me describe, and I shall mention them at the latter End of my Tour, in a general List, that you may be enabled to form an Idea of the numerous Families of Gentry which Scotland produces.

On this Coast is the Isle of Skye, lying from the West-north-west, to the East-south-east, and bear|ing upon the main Island, only separated by a nar|row Streight of Water; something like as the Isle of Wight is separated from the County of Southampton. We left this on our Right, and crossing the Moun|tains, came, with as little Stay as we could, to the Loughs called Lochyol, and Lochlochy, which run thro' that large Country called Lochaber, that is, ••ver the Lochs, and which some affect to call the River Aber or Abre, i. e. the Water which, as I said above, assists, with Loughness, or Lochness, to separate the North Land of Scotland, from the middle Part.

This is a long and narrow Inlet of the Sea, in Length above 24 Miles, the Depth unknown, which opening from the Irish Sea South-west, meets the River Abre, or, as the Scots much more properly express it, the Water of Abre; for it is rather a large Lake or Loch than a River, and receives innumerable small Rivers into it. It rises in the Mountains of Ross, or of Glengary, within five or six Miles from the Shore of the Lochness, or the Water of Ness, which is a long and narrow Lake like itself; and as the Ness runs away East to Innerness, and so into the great Gulph called Murray Firth, so the Abre, becoming presently a Loch or Lake, always goes away more to the Southward, and sloping South-west, runs into the Irish Seas, as above.

Lochaber is 50 Miles in a strait Line from Inver|lochy to Inverness, and is one of the most barren Countries in North Britain, tho' the People have Wood, Goats and Deer in Plenty. Glenco is almost the only Town in it; noted for the barbarous and inhuman Massacre perpetrated there by K. William's Soldiers, quartered in those Parts, and who cut off Men, Women and Children without Mercy. A Massacre that made a great Noise, and was uni|versally detested; and what made it still the more odious was, that the Commander in that bloody Work found Friends enough to screen him from the Inquiry that was attempted to be made into the horrid Fact, in order to find out who gave him his Orders for it.

Lochaber is noted in History for Banco, its gallant Thane, about the Year 1050, who was murdered by the Tyrant Macbeth, because of a Prophecy, That his Posterity should enjoy the Crown for a long Series of Years: Which accordingly happened; for his Son flying into Wales, married the Prince of North Wales's Daughter; by whom he had Walter, afterwards Steward of Scotland, from whom the Royal Family of Stuart was descended. It was on this Story that our celebrated Shakespeare founded his Tragedy called Macbeth.

On this Water of Abre, just at the Entrance of the Loch, was antiently a Fort built to curb the Highlanders, on either Side, called Inverlochy. It was formerly of great Strength, and yet often de|stroy'd by the Danes and Norwegians. And at the Revolution, King William caused it to be rebuilt, or rather erected a new Fort there, which is called Castle William, as the Village is Mary-burgh; and there is always a good Garison kept in it for curbing the Highlanders. It is so situated, that tho' it may indeed be blocked up by Land, and distressed by a

Siege, yet, as it is open to the Sea, it may constantly receive Supplies by Shipping.

From Inverlochy to Lochness has General Wade, with the most commendable Industry and Pains, thro' almost inaccessible Mountains, and Mosses, and Morasses, made a most convenient Road, which even surpasses (the County consider'd) what the Romans had done with their several Military Ways; and shews, that the Soldiery might be made useful even in Times of Peace, and rather a Benefit than a Burden to the Country; and at the same time so inure them to Toil, Labour, and Hardiness, as would render them fitter for their Country's Service in Time of War. To defend this Road from the Rage of the Highlanders, and at the same time to keep them in Awe, the General built a regular For|tification, which is called Fort Augustus. By this means the Highlands, which before were inaccessi|ble but by Highlanders, who eluded always the Re|sentment of their Pursuers, are easily entered, and traversed at the Pleasure of the King's Forces; and even the noted Rob Roy himself, (so famous for his Excursions and Plunders on the Lowlands, and the King's Friends, and who, notwithstanding the Pro|clamations, and Rewards issued for apprehending him, could never be taken) were he alive, would not be able now to find a Place of Refuge from his Pursuers. And this must be in time a great Help to the civilizing of the Highlanders, as the Schools established among them (of which more by-and-by) will be another.

At this Place we take our Leave of the Third Division, which I call the North Land of Scotland; for this Fort, being on the South-side of the Loch|aber, is therefore called Innerlochy, as the other for the like Reason was called Innerness.

We have nothing now remaining for a full Survey of Scotland, but the Western Part of the Middle

Division of Scotland; and this, tho' a large Country, yet affords not an equal Variety with the Eastern Part of the same Division.

To traverse the Remainder of this Country, I must begin upon the Upper Tay, as we may justly call it, where I left off, when I turned away East; and here we have in especial manner the Countries of Badenach, Athol and Braidalbin: This is a hilly Country indeed; but as it is water'd by the Tay, and many other pleasant Rivers which fall into it, there are several fruitful Valleys interspersed among the Hills; nor are even the Highlands themselves, or the Highlanders the Inhabitants, any thing so wild, untaught, or untractable, as we have been made to believe, and as are to be found in the North Land Division, that is to say, in Strathnavern, Ross, Tain, &c.

The Duke of Athol is Lord, I had almost said King, of this Country; and has the greatest Number of Vassals, of any Nobleman in this, or any Part of Scotland.

The late Duke was always an Opposer of the Union in the Parliament holden at Edinburgh, for passing it into an Act; but he did not carry his Opposition to a Height of Tumult and Rebellion. If he had, as some were forward to have had him done, he would possibly at that time have bid fair to have prevented the Conclusion of it: But the Hour was come, when the Calamities of War, which for so many hundred Years had vexed the two Nations, were to have an End; and tho' the English Govern|ment had never less Power than then in Scotland, yet the Affair was carried thro' with a high Hand, all the little Tumults and Disorders of the Rabble, as well at Edinburgh as at Glasgow, and other Places, being timely suppressed, and others by prudent Management prevented.

The Duke has several fine Seats in this Country; as first at Dunkeld, upon the Tay, which I mentioned before, where there was a Fight between the regular Troops and the Highlanders, in the Beginning of the Reign of King William; another at Huntingtour, in the Strathern, or Valley of Ern, where the Duke has a fine Park, and great Store of Deer; which may be called his Hunting-seat, whither he some|times retires for Sport.

He has another Seat at the Castle of Blair, far|ther North, and beyond the Tay, on the Edge of Braidalbin, upon the Banks of a clear and fine River, which falls into the Tay a few Miles lower.

The Country of Braidalbin has not so much as a single Village in it of ten Houses; yet from its Latin Name Albania, gives oft-times the Title of Duke to some of the Royal Family; 'tis seated very near the Centre of Scotland, and is alledged to be the highest Ground in it, for that the Rivers which rise here, are said to run every Way from this Part, some into the Eastern, and some into the Western Seas.

The Grampian Mountains here are said to cut thro' Scotland. As the Country is rough and uncultivated, the Inhabitants are a hardy Race of Men, who make excellent Soldiers, when they are listed abroad in regular and disciplined Troops; and I must add, that they are much civilized from what they were formerly. These Mountains abound with Flocks of Black Cattle, Sheep, Horses, and Goats. The Beef and Mutton are of a delicious Taste, and the Wool is valued for its Whiteness and Softness.

The Duke of Athol, tho' he had not (till of late) an Estate equal to some of the Nobility, yet was Master of more of the Superiorities, as they are called here, than many of those who have twice his Estate; and I have been told, that he can bring a Body of above 6000 Men together in Arms at very little Warning.

The Pomp and Grandeur in which this noble Per|son lives, is not to be imitated in Great Britain; for he is served like a Prince, and maintains a greater Equipage and Retinue, than five times his Estate would support in another Country.

The Duke has also another Seat in Strathern, which is called Tullibardin, and which gives Title of Marquis to the eldest Son of the House of Athol, for the Time being. At the lower Part of this Country the River Ern falls into the Tay, and greatly increases its Waters. This River rises far West, on the Frontiers of the Western Highlands near Glengyl, and running thro' that pleasant Coun|try called Strathern, falls into Tay, below St. Johnston.

The present Duke is the only Peer that I know of, that is so by Statute, rather than Patent; for his eldest Brother, the Marquis of Tullibardin, being attainted for his Adherence to the Pretender, the Title would of course have failed; but that (toge|ther with the Estate) it was settled by Act of Parlia|ment on the second Brother, who is also Lord of, or King in, the Isle of Man, and also Lord Strange of Knocking, to both which he succeeded by the Death of his Cousin James late Earl of Derby.

Soon after the Ern shoots forth from the Moun|tains, it spreads itself into a Loch, as most of those Rivers do, called Lochern; and then runs by Duplin Castle, the Seat of the Earl of Kinnoul, whose eldest Son is thence called Lord Duplin. The present Earl of Kinnoul, when Lord Duplin, mar|ried the Daughter of the Earl of Oxford, when Lord High Treasurer of England; and was, on that Occasion, made a Peer of Great Britain, by the Title of Lord Hay of Peperdon. His Estate here is a very good one, but not attended with Vassals and Superiorities, as, I observed, the Duke of Athol's is. The several Owners of this Seat having been pretty

much used to reside in it, have adorned it at several times, each according to his particular Genius. It has lately received a new Decoration, two Wings being added for Offices as well as Ornament.

The old Building is spacious, the Rooms large, and Ceilings lofty, filled with Furniture suitable to its outward Magnificence, particularly with abun|dance of fine Paintings, some of the Royal Family, among which is one of King Charles I. with a Let|ter in his Hand, held out to his Son the Duke of York, afterwards King James VII. which they said he was to have carried to France. There is also a Statue in Brass of the same King on Horse-back; a Picture of Oliver Cromwell; another of Gene|ral Monk, both from the Life. There is also a whole Length of that Earl of Kinnoul, who was Lord Chancellor of Scotland, in the Reign of King James VI. and King Charles I. with several other Pieces of Italian Masters of great Value.

Duplin Castle is remarkable also for the greatest Defeat the Scots ever received from the English, in the Reign of Edward Baliol, whom the English came to assist. In this Battle fourscore of the Family of Lindsay perished, and of the Family of Hay so many, that the Name had been extinguished, had not the Chief left his Lady with Child.

From this Place we went to Brechin in Angus, formerly mentioned, an antient Town with a Castle finely situated; but the Grandeur of it is lost; the Family of Panmure, to whom it belonged chiefly, having forfeited it in the late Rebellion.

Here I shall mention the Cataract near Blair Drum|mond on the Keith, which empties itself into the Tay, which makes so great a Noise among the Rocks, that it stuns those who come near it.

We were now, after a long Mountain-ramble, come down to the Lowlands, and into a pleasant and agreeable Country; but as we had yet another

Journey to take Westward, we had a like Prospect of a rude and wild Part of Scotland to go thro'.

The Highlands of Scotland may be divided into two Parts, the West Highlands and the North High|lands; the latter I have spoken of at large, contain|ing the Countries of Athol, Lochaber, Badenach, Strathspey, Innerness, Ross, Sutherland, and Strath|navern, together with the Isles of Skye, Lewis, &c.

The West Highlands contain the Shires or Coun|ties of Dunbritton or Dunbarton, alias Lenox, Bute, and Argyll, which last contains the Districts of Cowal, Knapdale, Lorn and Cantyre; the Isles of Mull, Jura, Isla, &c.

Braidalbin is sometimes reckoned a Part of the North, and sometimes of the West Highlands.

On the Banks of the River Ern lies a very plea|sant Vale, which continues from the Tay, quite up to the Highlands, called by Claudian, Glacialis Ierne; but now, according to the Usage of Scotland, Strath|ern, or the Vale of Ern. 'Tis an agreeable Country, has many Gentlemens Seats on both Sides the River; but being near the Highlands, has often suffered by Depredations in former Times.

In it are many Roman Camps; particularly one at Ardoch; besides a Roman Highway, towards Perth. Several Roman Medals have also been found there, and of late two Tabulae curiously enamelled with a Sepulchral Stone. The Ochil-hills, which run along the South Parts of Perthshire, abound with Metals and Minerals; particularly they find good Copper, and Lapis Calaminaris; and at Glen-lion they meet with Lead. Here is great Want of Coal; but their excellent Peat, and abundance of Wood, supply that Defect.

The Family of Montrose, whose Chief was sacri|ficed for the Royal Cause in the late Civil Broils, had a strong Castle here called Kincardin, which was demolished in those Wars, and is not rebuilt. The

Castle of Drummond is almost in the same Condition, b••••ng deserted by its Owners; the two late Earls of ••••••th, Father and Grandfather of the present Earl, were forced into Exile for adhering to the late King James II. and the Pretender. King James had the latter in such Esteem, that he not only made him a Duke, and Knight of the Garter, but Governor to the Chevalier.

The Western Highlands, properly so called, are the only remaining Part of Scotland, which as yet I have not touched upon. This is that particular Country, which a certain Man in King James II.'s Time called the Kingdom of Argyll, complimenting King James upon having conquered two Kings, when he suppressed the Duke of Monmouth, whom in Derision they called the little King of Lime, and the Earl of Argyll, whom they called, with much more Propriety, the great King of the Highlands.

But tho' the greatest Part of these Western High|lands may be said to be subject to the House of Argyll, or, to speak more properly, to the Family or Clan of the Campbells, of whom the Duke of Argyll is the Chief, yet some of the Western Gen|tlemen are not so blindly guided by their Chiefs as those in the North; nor, when led on, are they so apt to commit Outrages and Violence.

But tho' the People are different in these Western and Northern Highlands, the Countries are much alike; only in the former there are not such extensive Woods of Fir-trees, nor such Quantities of large Eagles.

The People also dress alike in both, in the Plaid and the Trouse; go naked from below the Knee to the Mid-thighs; wear a Durk and a Pistol at their Girdle, and a Target at their Shoulder.

Some reckon the Shire of Braidalbin to belong, as I have said, to these Western Highlands; not that it is West in its Situation, for it is rather North; but,

I suppose, because one Part of it is inhabited by the Campbells, whose Clan, as I have observed, generally possesses most of the West Highlands.

But if they claim the Country, they will have no Reason to boast of the People, who are, if I may give my Opinion, some of the most barbarous and ill-governed of all the Highlands of Scotland; desperate in Fight, fierce in Conversation, apt to quarrel, mischievous, and even Murderers in their Passion.

At the Fight which happened at Gillekranky in Athol, against the Viscount of Dundee, they tell us a Story of a Combat between an English Soldier and a Highlander. The Englishman understood the Back-sword very well, but the Scotchman re|ceived all the Blows upon his Target; and yet at the same time laid so hard at his Antagonist with his Broad-sword, that he cut him in two or three Places; at which the Englishman enraged, rather than dis|couraged, cried out to him, You Dog, come out from behind the Door, and fight like a Man; but the Scot, tho' as brave as the other, knew better things; he pursued him, in short, so closely, that he was just going to kill him, when some of the Regi|ment, that saw him distressed, came up and rescued him, and took the Highlander Prisoner.

It is hard to say whether the Northern or Western Highlanders make the best Soldiers. 'Tis certain they both of them are defrauded of an Honour due to them, when we attribute several gallant Atchieve|ments to the Irish Battalions Abroad, which were performed by the Scots. Thus in particular 'tis said, the Irish Troops beat the Germans out of Cremona, after they had got Possession of the Town, and had taken the French General, the Marshal Viller••y, Prisoner: That the Irish Battalions in the Spanish Service behaved gallantly in Sicily, and so on many extraordinary Occasions. Now tho' it is true, that

the Scots came originally from Ireland, yet 'tis to be observed, that these Soldiers were most of them Scots Highlanders, who, upon all Occasions get over into France, there list among the Irish Troops; nay, in the late Wars, it has been observed, whole Regiments of Highlanders have been raised for the Service, who, when they were got Abroad, would take the first Opportunity to desert, and go over to the French, and so list in the Irish Battalions, their original Countrymen, and who still speak the same Language.

Leaving the Country about Brechin, and the Lowlands of Strathern, we went away West; but were presently interrupted by a vast inland Sea, ra|ther than a Lake, called Lochlomond. It is indeed a Sea, and look'd like it from the Hills from whence we first descry'd it. It contains thirty Islands, three of which have Churches, and several of the rest are inhabited. The chief is Inchmurin, about two Miles and a half in Length, fruitful in Corn and Grass, and abounds with Deer, which the Scotish Kings were accustomed to hunt there. The others most remarkable are Nachastel, so called from the old Castle in it. Inchdavanan, noted for Broom, abundance of wild Berries, pleasant Habitations, Gardens and Fruit-trees. Inchonnaugan, noted for Birch-trees and Corn-fields. Inchnolaig, noted for Yew-trees, which grow no-where else in these Islands. And Rouglash, where the Laird of Macfarlan has a handsome Seat on the East-side of the Lake. Kil|maronoch, a fine Seat once belonging to the Earls of Cassils; but now to the Earl of Dondonald. Bucha|nan-castle, and several others.

This Lake or Loch is one of the largest in Scot|land, being more than 20 Miles long, and generally eight Miles in Breadth, tho' at the North End of it 'tis not near so broad. It receives many Rivers

into it, but empties itself into the Firth of Clyde, at one Mouth.

This Lake abounds with Fish of several Sorts, particularly a Sort called Poans, and by some Pol|lacks, peculiar to it; a Kind of Eel, very delicious to eat. This gave Occasion to the Mistake of Au|thors, who said this Lake had Fish without Fins. So the Beams fastened together in some Places of the Lake, by the Inhabitants, and covered with Turf, for them to have recourse to in time of War, and to move from Part to Part, gave Rise to the Fable of floating Islands here.

The famous Grampian Mountains begin near this Lake, and run Northward towards Aberdeen.

The County of Lenox, on which this Lake lies, is in Length about 24 Miles, and in Breadth about twenty. The lower Part is very fertile in Corn; the higher is hilly, moorish, and more fit for Pasture. It is the paternal Estate and Property of the Stuarts, and extends itself from both Sides the Levin, which is the River that (as I said before) empties the Loch|lomond into the Clyde. On this Side, Eastward, Lenox joins to Monteith, which is Part of Perthshire, and runs up for some Length on the East-side of the Loch, and on the West-side it extends to the Edge of the Lochloing, and a great way North, almost to the Mountains of Lochaber.

All our Writers of the Description of Lenox in|large upon its Family of Stuarts, as proceeding from the Royal Line of Scotland; and, in some re|spect, the Royal Line may be said to proceed from this House, Henry Lord Darnley, eldest Son of Matthew Earl of Lenox, having been married to Queen Mary, by whom he was Father of King James the Sixth and First. He was most barbarously murdered; the Queen was unjustly blamed for it; whereas Murray projected it, Bothwell put it in Execution, Morton and others were privy to it; as

the said Earl Morton, and others who suffered for it, declared at the last.

From this Earl Matthew descended Charles Duke of Lenox and Richmond, who dying without Issue, in 1672. the Estate and Honour devolved to King Charles II. as Heir at Law, which he conferred on his natural Son by the Duchess of Portsmouth, and to whom he gave the Surname of Lenox; from whom is descended the present Duke of Richmond and Lenox.

The Buchanans, among many illustrious Names, are originally of this County, whence the famous George Buchanan, one of the great Ornaments of his Age for all polite Learning, and not hitherto equalled by any Poet or Historian since his Time, for smooth and elegant Latin. But his excessive Bias for the Earl of Murray, and his inveterate Prejudice against the unfortunate Queen Mary, has quite lost him the Title of Impartiality; insomuch, that his History of Scotland was condemned by Act of Parliament, when first published, Anno 1582. Whence Sir George Mackenzie took Occasion to say, He was both Decus & Dedecus Patriae, the Grace and Disgrace of his Country.

Dunbarton is the County Town of Lenoxshire. It was once considerable for its Trade, which is now much decay'd; but is still remarkable for its Castle, one of the strongest by Nature in Europe; being secured by the River on one Side, the Firth of Clyde on the other, by an impassable Morass on the third, and the fourth is a Precipice: Of this Castle the Earl of Hay is Governor.

Take Buchanan's Description of it, to the follow|ing Effect: Betwixt the Conflux of Clyde and Leven is a Plain about a Mile long, at the End of which, where the Rivers join, is a Rock with two Sum|mits; on the Westermost is a Watch-tower, afford|ing an extended Prospect into the neighbouring

Country. The Eastern Summit is lower; and be|twixt them are Steps cut out of the Rock, passable only by one Man at a time. When any Part is cut or falls off from the Rock, it emits a sulphureous Smell. At the upper Part of the Castle is a great Rock of Loadstone. The Rock is very steep on all Sides but towards the Clyde, where the Ascent is more easy; and betwixt the two Rocks is a Space of Ground inclosed by Art and Nature, which contains many Houses, makes a safe Harbour for Ships, under Protection of the Castle, and opens a Passage for Boats to the very Gate. On the Ascent in the Middle are Houses which look like another Castle, separated from the former. The same serves for a Ditch on the West, and the Clyde on the South; and the Tide comes up to the East-side; and on the North, where the Rock is steep, is a green Plain. Three Wells are in the Castle always flowing with Water, besides many Springs; so that it may well be deemed impregnable. The Town lies about half a Mile from it, on the Bank of the Levin.

The Roman Wall, which begins at Abercorn, runs thro' this County, and ends at Kilpatrick on Clyde, a Regality of the Lord Blantyre's.

We now entered the large extended Country of Argyll, or the Western Islands, commonly called, the Shire of Innerary, from the principal Town, where the Duke of Argyll has his Residence. It comprehends, as I have said, Argyllshire, Knapdale, Caval, Kintyre, and Lorn, with the Western Isles of Coll, Illcollimkil, Isla, Jura, Lismore, Mull, Te|reff, and Wyst. It is 120 Miles long, and 40 broad. It joins to Perthshire on the East, to Lochaber on the North-east, to the Isles on the North-west, and to the Irish Sea on the South.

Kintyre is a Peninsula, which runs 30 Miles out into the Irish Sea, and is no more than 13, some say 16 Miles from Ireland. Campbel-town, made a

Royal Burgh by King William, with a safe Har|bour for Ships, lies in this County. Camden says, the People of this Part, formerly made Excursions into Ireland, and possessed themselves of the Pro|vinces of Gline and Rowle.

Knapdale joins to Kintyre on the North by a narrow Neck of Land, scarce a Mile over, thro' which the People of the Country draw their small Vessels, to avoid sailing round to Kintyre. It abounds with Lakes and Bays, several of which contain Islands and Castles; and the Soil is generally fitter for Pasturage than Cultivation; yet it produces Corn in great Plenty.

Lorn is the pleasantest and most fruitful Part of the Shire of Argyll. The Castle of Dunstafage stands in this County, formerly a Royal Seat, where several of the antient Kings are buried. The Family of Campbell was made Earls by King James II. of Scot|land. They were a long time Lords Justices Gene|ral of the Kingdom; but surrendered that Office to King Charles I. on a valuable Equivalent, besides having the Jurisdiction of Argyll and the Isles, and are still Great Masters of the King's Houshold in Scotland. They derive their Surname from the Castle of Campbell, and according to Camden, their Pedigree from the antient Kings of Argyll, by a long Series of Ancestors. The Earl of Loudon, the Earl of Braidalbin, the Earl of Isla, and other great Men, are of this Family.

The whole Shire of Argyll, taking in the above Parts, has seven Bays of the Sea entering into it, called, by the Inhabitants, Lochs; the chief is Lochfyn, famous for the Number and Goodness of its Herrings; it is said to be about 40 Miles in Length, and at the narrowest Place about four in Breadth. Lochew, according to Bishop Lesly, is almost as large as Lochlomond, and contains twelve Islands, in one of which is the Castle of Enconel, in another

that of Gleurquhart, and where it enters the Sea, abounds with Salmon. The Sea-coast of Argyll, or as far as Lochfyn, abounds with high Rocks, and black Mountains covered with Heath, which afford Pasturage for Black Cattle and Deer. The Black Cattle run for the most part wild, but are excellent Meat; and their Fat, when boiled, does not congeal, as others, but continues for some Days like Oil. The Inhabitants make great Profit of them by selling them to the Lowlanders.

The Duke of Argyll is hereditary Sheriff of this County. 'Tis an old Right of this Family, that when they marry any Daughter, their Vassals are obliged to pay their Portion, and are taxed in order to it, according to the Number of their Cattle.

From the Mull of Cantyre you see Ireland very plain, it being not above 15 or 16 Miles from the Point of Land, which they call the Mull, to the Fair Foreland, on the Coast of Colrain, on the North of Ireland. In the Mouth of this Sea of Clyde lies a Rock, somewhat like the Bass in the Firth of Forth, or of Edinburgh, not for Shape, but for this Particular, that at the Bass the Solan Geese are noted to come in the Season of the Fishery, and then fly back again. This Island is called the Ailzey.

I shall here mention the Isles of Bute and Arran. Buchanan says, that of Bute is eight Miles long, and four broad; Bishop Lesly, that it is 10 Miles long. It is fruitful in Corn and Pasturage. It has a Royal Burgh called Rothsay, with an antient Castle. From this the Royal Family of Stuart is supposed to derive their Origin: And Duke of Rothsay is now one of the Titles of the Prince of Wales. It has another Castle called the Castle of Kermes, and four Churches. This Island lies in the Mouth of the Clyde, eight Miles West from Arran, and is re|markable for its Herring-fishing. The Isle of Bute

gives Title of Earl to a Branch of the noble Family of Hamilton, who is the chief Proprietor, and he|retable Coroner of the Island, and has a Seat at Rosa; as Callartine has at Kermes, and Stuart of Ascog another. Queen Mary, before she married Lord Darnley, conferred upon him the Title of Duke of Rothsay. Near Bute are two small Islands, called Great and Little Cumbrays, the Property of the Earl of Glasgow.

The Isle of Arran, which with Bute make up one Sheriffdom, lies also in the Mouth of the Clyde, 24 Miles in Length, and near 16 broad, fruitful in Corn and Pasturage. It is very well inhabited on the Coast, and is a safe and good Harbour, covered by Lamlash or the Holy Isle. It has two Churches, and several Castles, of which that of Brodich is the strongest and most noted, and is the Residence of the Hamilton Family when in these Parts, who also have a Forest here containing about 400 Head of Deer; and the Island gives Title of Earl to the Duke of that Name. The Island has several Rivers in it, which abound with Salmon, as the Sea about it does with Herrings, Cod and Whitings.

The People are Protestants, speak the Irish Language, and are still composed of several Tribes or Clans. The most ancient are Mac-Lewis, of French Extraction, in English named Fullerton, and Lairds of Kirk-Michael, where they reside.

These two Islands are surrounded with a tumultous and dangerous Sea, especially in a hard South-west Wind, which brings the Sea rolling in upon them in a frightful manner. But the above Harbour of Lamlash stands them in great stead in this Case.

Now we are upon these Western Coasts, I shall mention, that in the Month of August 1740. an Attempt was made by Diving, to come at one of the largest Ships of the Spanish Armada, stranded in 1588. on these Coasts. Another was dived for some

Years ago; but the Sand being loose, it turned to little or no Account. The other, which was lost near Portin-cross, was begun to be searched after by Sir Archibald Grant, and Captain Roe, in August 1740. and the following was the Account that was transmit|ted to us, which we the rather insert, as it gives some Notion of the Operation by the Diving-engine.

The Country People had preserved by Tradition the Spot pretty near where she sunk, and gave them all the Information they were able: Immediately the Divers went to Work, and swept for her, which they do thus: They have a long Line, which they sink with Leads; one End of the Rope is fixed to one Boat, and the other End to another; they row; and whatever interrupts them, the Diver goes down to make a Discovery. They soon happened on the Place where the Ship lay, which is scarce a Quarter of a Mile from the Shore, in ten Fathom and a Foot Water. Captain Roe immediately went down, and found the Vessel to be very intire, to have a great Number of Guns on board, but to be full of Sand. The first Thing he fixed upon was a Cannon, which lay upon the Sand at the Head of the Ship: To this he fixed his Tongs, which are made of strong Bars of Iron; they are open when they are let down, and have Teeth which join into one another. As soon as they are fixed upon any thing, he gives the Signal, when they are made to shut, and the heavier the Subject, the closer they hold. The Cannon was drawn up with a good deal of Difficulty; it measures full nine Feet, is of Brass, greenish-coloured, but nothing the worse. On the Breach there is a Rose, with an E on the one Side and an R on the other, with this Inscription, Richard and John Philips, Brethren, made this Piece, Anno 1584. But we may be allowed to observe, That by the E. R. on the Cannon, which denotes Eliz. Regina, and the Rose, as also the English Inscription of the Makers, it should seem

to us, that it could not belong to the Armada; but rather to some English Ship, that might have been cast away there. Ten of these Brass Cannon, and ten Iron ones, have been since carried into Dublin; and they hope to recover sixty out of this Ship. The Guns were all charged, and the Metal of some, by lying so long under Water, moulders away like Clay.

Several People have scraped the Iron Guns, which are as mouldy as Bricks; and by keeping the Metal some time in their Hands, it grows so hot, that they are not able to bear it; but when it is exposed two or three Hours in open Air, it loses all its burning Quality. This is accounted for in the following Manner; viz.

Dr. Tournefort, a French Physician, in his Voyage to the Levant, Part I. says: It is certain, that the Filings of Iron, steeped in common Water, will grow considerably warm, and much more so in Sea Water. And if you mingle therewith some Sulphur powdered, you will really see this Mixture burn.

Sir Isaac Newton, in the last Edition of his Opticks, Pag. 354. says: That even the gross Body of Sul|phur, powdered with an equal Weight of Iron Filings, and a little Water made into a Paste, acts upon the Iron; and in five or six Hours grows too hot to be touched, and emits a Flame.

Now it is certain, that cast Iron contains a great deal of Bitumen or Sulphur in its Composition, and that Iron in its sensible Quality effects Heat, and cannot be perceived without the Admission of Air; which is the Reason why the Scrapings should grow hot, altho' the Guns are actually cold to the Touch.

As I have given Accounts of several publick Cha|rities, and other laudable Institutions, in the Southern Parts of Britain, it would be inexcusable not to mention the Society in Scotland for propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands, it being one of the worthiest Designs of the present Age; and as

we shall include in it also a Description of the said Highlands, and of the Scots Islands besides; we cannot insert it in a more proper Place. It is comprehended in a Letter written June 1739. from a Gentleman who is a great Encourager of this noble Institution, to his Friend; and is as follows:

"The Extent of the Highlands of Scotland is much greater than has commonly been imagined: From the Mull of Kintyre to Farohead in Strath|navern, is more than 200 Miles in a strait Line from South to North; and from Farohead to John a Grot's House, is above 60 Miles along the North and Northern Coast of the Continent: Be|sides, there is a vast Number of inhabited Islands, of which some are both large and populous: For instance, Jura is 24 Miles long; Isla, 16; Mull, 24; Skye, 48; Long-Island, comprehending Bara, Southuist, Northuist, and Lewes, 100; and many others, from two to 12 Miles in Length. The Isles of Orkney and Zetland are to be considered by themselves; for to Orkney alone belong thirty-three inhabited Islands, one of which is 24 Miles, and another 12, in Length. In Zetland there are about 30 inhabited Islands, some of which are six, others seven Miles long. Many of these Islands lie at considerable Distances from the Con|tinent, and from one another, and are in Extent about one half of Scotland.

"In this large Track of Country, Ignorance and Superstition greatly prevail: In some Places, the Remains even of Paganism are still to be found; and in many others, the Reformation from Po|pery has never yet obtained. The Parishes where Ministers are settled, are commonly of very great Extent, some 30, 40, 50 Miles long, and ge|nerally divided by impassable Mountains and Lakes; so that most of the Inhabitants, being

destitute of all Means of Knowledge, and with|out any Schools to educate their Children, are intirely ignorant of the Principles of Religion and Virtue, live in Idleness and Poverty, have no Notion of Industry, or Sense of Liberty; are subject to the Command of their Popish disaffected Chieftains, who have always opposed the propa|gating Christian Knowledge, and the English Tongue, that they might with less Difficulty keep their miserable Vassals in a slavish Dependence. The poorer Sort have only the Irish Tongue, and little Correspondence with the civilized Parts of the Nation, and only come among them to pillage the more industrious Inhabitants: They are brought up in Principles of Tyranny and Arbitrary Government, depend upon foreign Papists as their main Support, and the native Irish as their best Correspondents and Allies. This has been the Source of all the Rebellions and Insurrections in that Country since the Revolution.

"On the other hand, they are naturally of a quick Genius, of great bodily Strength, inured to Hardship. Their Country is commodiously situated for the noblest Fishery in the World, of which our Neighbours have made immense Profit. They have Mines and Woods, and great Quan|tity of Black Cattle, and vast Tracks of im|proveable Land, which lie waste for want of Industry in the People, and not considering the Advantage of their Situation. They are a nu|merous and prolifick People; and, if reformed in their Principles and Manners, and usefully em|ployed, might be made a considerable Accession of Power and Wealth to Great Britain. Some Clans of Highlanders, well instructed in the Arts of War, and well affected to the Government, would make as a•…•…e and formidable a Body for their

Country's Defence, as Great Britain, or Swit|zerland, or any Part of Europe, are able to produce.

"In the Year 1701, some Gentlemen of Edin|burgh first considered of proper Methods for civilizing and reforming them; and agreed, that the setting up of Schools in different and con|venient Places, for the instructing of their Youth in the English Tongue, and Principles of the Christian Religion, and disposing them to Virtue and Industry, would be the most likely and effectual Means. They joined in a voluntary Subscription among themselves, and engaged as many others in it as they could, which laid the first Foundation of this great and publick Design. They soon found the Work too heavy a Burden for a few private Hands, and made Application to her late Majesty Queen Anne, who was graciously pleased to approve and recommend the same by her Royal Proclamation, in the Year 1708: and in 1709. granted her Letters Patent, constituting and appointing a certain Number of the Sub|scribers to be a Society, or Body Politick, by the Name of, The Society in Scotland for propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands, and Islands, &c. with full Powers to receive Donations of Money, &c. and to purchase Lands, &c. not ex|ceeding 2000l. a Year; and with the Profits and yearly Interest of the same to erect and maintain Schools, with many other Privileges and Regula|tions. The Lords of Session, or Judges in Scot|land, according to her Majesty's Commission, nominated 82 Subscribers to be the first Members of the Society, all of them Persons of the best and most distinguished Characters; who at their first General Meeting chose a President, a Trea|surer, a Secretary, and other Officers. They also chose a Committee of Fifteen, who meet every

Month, or oftener, as they have Occasion. There is a General Meeting of the whole Society every three Months, when they assume new Members, make general Regulations, give Orders to the Committee, and receive their Accounts. All Proceedings, both of the Committee, and of the General Meeting, are recorded in distinct Books, which are always open to the Examination of every Contributor. The Names of the Con|tributors are kept in a distinct Register with an Account of the several Benefactions.

"In the Year 1710. they began to settle Schools in such Places as had never been reformed from Heathenism: And their capital Stock having yearly increased by the liberal Contributions of many Persons of all Ranks in Great Britain, and amounting to above 10000l. most of which is laid out upon good Security, they have increased their Schools in Proportion. Their Number at present is about 100, where above 4000 are taught gratis, to read, write, Arithmetick, and Psalmody. Many of the poorer Scholars have a weekly Al|lowance for their Maintenance, and Cloaths and Books provided for them. Great Care is taken, that the School-masters are Men of Probity, Ca|pacity, and well affected to the Government; and they are obliged, besides the teaching the Children in the Schools, to instruct those in the Principles of Religion who are too old to come to School, and at too great a Distance from the Parish Church. Many Popish Parents have at length permitted their Children to be instructed.

"This Society has appointed Persons of Cha|racter and Consideration to be Visitors of their Schools, and to examine the Conduct and Dili|gence of the School-masters, and the Proficiency of the Scholars, and to transmit Accounts to them at Edinburgh. All possible Care is taken to

manage the Money to the best Advantage, not a Farthing being diverted to any other Purpose; and all the principal Officers of the Society serve gratis. The Success of the Undertaking has answered all the Pains and Expence of the Society: There appears a great Disposition in the rising Generation to be instructed; many have learned to read the Scriptures, and attend Divine Service in English, where formerly the Irish Tongue was only understood. Several of the Scholars are ca|pable of assisting the Masters; and some of them of being Masters of the Society's Schools. Many of them have attained to such Degrees of Know|ledge, as to be admitted to the Celebration of the Lord's Supper. The Face of Reformation and Virtue begins to appear every-where; and there is Reason to apprehend, that in a few Years, Ig|norance, Popery, and the Irish Language, will be utterly extirpated; and in their stead, Virtue, Loyalty, and Industry, will take Place.

"Nevertheless, the present Fund is far from be|ing sufficient to the Vastness of the Design, as appears from the Report of the Commissioners, appointed by his late Majesty King George, Anno 1716, to inquire into the State of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament of the preceding Session, who gave it as their Opinion, That no Method was so likely to reduce these Countries to a State of Peace among themselves, and hearty Subjection to the present Government, as that of establish|ing Schools among them; and that over and above the present Number, one hundred and fifty more were absolutely necessary to render the Design fully effectual.

"This Report had so good an Effect, that it was enacted, (Anno 4 Georgii) in the Act for vesting the forfeited Estates in Trustees, &c. 'That a

Sum not exceeding 20000l. shall be appropriated towards making a capital Stock, for a yearly In|terest or Income, out of the Moneys which shall arise by Sale of the said Estates which are in Scot|land, towards erecting and maintaining Schools in the Highlands, &c. And in the Act (6 Georgii) for laying a Duty on wrought Plate, there is a Pro|viso, That nothing therein shall invalidate the said Provision for Schools in the Highlands, &c. But notwithstanding this charitable Provision of the Legislature, 'tis much to be lamented, that neither that Country, nor this Society, ever reaped any Benefit by it, the Produce of the said Estates having been applied to other Purposes; whereby the reforming and civilizing of that Country is left to depend very much on private Contribution.

"I must not forget to observe, That the Society's Charter extends to Popish and Infidel Countries beyond the Seas, and that four Missionaries are maintained for converting the native Indians in America to the Christian Faith; three of which are stationed on the Frontiers of New England, between our Settlements and those of French Canada, by which Means the Indians in those Parts will more easily be kept in Subjection to our Government. The Charge of these three is in a great measure defrayed out of an Estate left to the Society by a late worthy Clergyman in England for that Purpose. The other Missionary is in|tirely supported at the Society's Charge in the new Colony of Georgia; where several of the poorer People are gone to reside.

"And to render this Design more fully a national Benefit, his present Majesty, from an earnest Desire to promote the Good of his Subjects in all Parts of his Dominions, was graciously pleased, in the Year 1738, to grant his Royal additional

Charter, to cause such Children as they should find proper, to be instructed in Husbandry, House|wifry, and Manufactures. The Society is taking all proper Measures for erecting Working-schools; and have good Encouragement to hope, that the landed Gentlemen in the Highlands and Isles will not suffer themselves to be outdone by their Protestant Neighbours in Ireland, who took the first Hint from their Design; but will, like them, let out and make Grants of small Parcels of Ground to build their Schools, and for Kitchen-gardens and Agriculture; and for the raising of Hemp and Flax for the Linen Manufacture, which is now so greatly improved in that Country. This is the distinct State of the Case, in all the Cir|cumstances and Steps of it.

"As this Undertaking is not the Work of a Party or Faction, but the common Cause of Christianity, and an Attempt to civilize vast Numbers of People, near half a Million, and make them useful to Society, who have been in a great measure useless, and in some Circum|stances very hurtful to it; 'tis apprehended, That the Wealthy and Well-disposed, who have an hearty Zeal for the Honour of God, and the Good of the Souls of Men, a true Love for their Country, and the publick Welfare, or a due Concern for the Protestant Religion, and the pre|sent happy Establishment, cannot easily find any Instance of Usefulness more likely to turn to Account, or capable of answering more noble and extensive Purposes of Good."

Thus far this Gentleman: We shall add, That his Majesty gives 1000l. per Annum toward this noble Design.

I shall here subjoin the following List of the principal Seats of the Nobility and Gentry in the respective Counties of North Britain, having by the Course of my Tour, out of one County into another, as it was most convenient to me, not been able to confine myself to a Description of any one intire County in one Place.

Principal Seats in the County of March or Merse.

Polwarth, Earl of Marchmont's; Blackader, Sir J. Hume's; Har••ass, Sir Roger Hay's; Allenbank, Sir Robert Stewart's; Nishet, Car's of Cavers▪ Langton, Cockburn's; Mertin, Sir William Scot's; Heisel and Hume Castle, Earl of Hume's; Swinton, Sir J. Swinton's; Coldenknows, Mr. Daes's.

Teviotdale or Roxburgh.

Flems, Duke of Roxburgh's; Bridgout, Sir Wil|liam Kerr's; Marlefield, Sir William Bennet's; Kingdale, Sir William Scot's; Ancram, Sir John Scot's; Cavers, Archibald Douglass's; Riddal, Sir Walter Riddal's; Wooley and Stobs, Sir Gilbert Elliot's; Bransholm, Duke of Buccleugh's, &c.

Annandale.

Wester-hall, Sir John Johnstoun's; Lither-hall, Mr. Ro. Johnstann's; Lockwood, Marquis Annan|dale's; Applegirth, Sir John Jarden's; Kelhead, Sir William Douglass's; Springkell, Sir Patrick Maxwell's; Hawmains, Sir John Caruther's; Castle-milk, Sir John Douglass's; Dornoch, — Douglass's; Kelburn, Thomas Scot's; Erkleton, William Elliot's; Langholm, — Melvin's; Ramersk••ll, T. Caruther's; Denby, Jo. Caruther's; Drumlanrig, Duke of Queensberry's; Terecles, Earl of Nithsdale's; Closburn, Kilpatrick's.

Annandale and Nithsdale make up only one Shire, but are distinct Stewarties.

East Lothian.

North Berwick, Sir Hugh Dalrymple's; Divleton, Mr. Nisbet's; Yester, Marquis Twedale's; Seaton and Winton, Earl of Winton's; Leith, Mr. Hey|burn's; Salton, Mr. Fletcher's; Elphingston, Lord Primrose's; Byers, Earl Hopton's; Hermiston, Mr. Sinclair's; Hales, Sir James Dalrymple's; Liding|ton, Lord Blantyre's; Ormiston, Mr. Cockburn's; Tynningham, Earl of Haddington's; Broxburn, Duke of Roxburgh's; Newbaith, Sir William Baird's; Banereeth, Lord Elibank's; Bell, Lord Beelhaven's; Spot, Lord David Hays's; Gilmerton, Sir. Fr. Kinlock's, &c.

Mid Lothian.

Holyrood-house, the King's; Dalkeith, Duke of Buccleugh's; Newbottle, Marquis of Lothian's; Dalhousie, Earl of Dalhousie's; Roseberry, Earl of Roseberry's; Borthwick, Sir I. Dalrymple's; Rosline, — Sinclair's; Cranstoun, Sir I. Dalrymple's; Cranstoun Ridel, Viscount Oxenford's; Preston-hall, Lord Justice Clerk; Smetoun, Sir Ja. Richardson's; Roystoun, Sir Ja. Mackenzie's; Barntoun, Earl of Rutherglen's; Elphinstoun, Viscount Primrose's; Haltoun, Earl of Lauderdale's; Arnistoun, Mr. Ro. Dundass's; Shank, late Mackenzie's; Pinkie, Mar|quis Twedele's; Addistoun, Mr. Gibson's; Colling|toun, Sir Ja. Fowles's; Bonningtoun, Sir Ro. Chesly's; Melvin Castle, Lord Ross's; Cranstoun, Mr. W. Maitland's; Inch, Sir Alexander Gilmore's; Priestfield, Sir Ja. Dick's; Wolmet, — Wallace's; Dredon, G. Lockhart's; Corstorfin, Lord For|rester's.

West Lothian, or Linlithgowshire.

Linlithgow, the King's; Cragy-hall, Marquis of Annandale's; Gogar, Sir Andrew Morton's; New|liston, Earl of Stair's; Kenneil, Duke of Hamilton's;

Shire of Selkirk.

Hanging-shaw, — Murray's; Whitford, Robert Scot's; Newark, Lord Elibank's; Minto, Sir Gil|bert Elliot's.

Shire of Peebles, or Twedale.

Nidpath, Earl of March's; Traquair, Earl of Traquair's; Davick, Sir Ja. Nasemith's.

Other Seats are those called; Pern, Grieston, Cardron, Ormisten, Horseburgh-castle, Smithfield, Darlihall, Manners-castle, Pos|••…••…-Caverhille, Barns, Drumelzier, Stenhop, Pomud, Wilkiston, Hawkshaw, Kinglidores, Kuttlehall, Lit|tlehop, Hartrey, Skirlin, Fowlege, Lower Urd, Quota, Urd Church, Halmire, Romano-Drokel. And many others.

Galloway.

Clarie, Glaston and Garlies, Earl of Gallo|way's; Castle-Kenmure, Viscount of Kenmure's; Castle-Kenedy, formerly Earl of Cassil's, now Earl of Stair's; Dunskey, belonging to the Adairs; Garth|land, to the Macdowals; Lochnaw, to the Agnews; Raveston, Stewart's of Castlemilk; Sorbie, Colonel James Stewart's; Mockrum, Sir James Dunbar's; Baldon, Lady Mary Hamilton's; Crugulton, Clary, Cuthbert, Cardonesse, Ruscow; and many others.

Cunningham.

The Cone, Kennedy's; Craigy, Sir T. Wallace's; Dunchanan, Sir J. Ferguson's; Askins, Earl of Dundonald's; Closeburn, Sir T. Kilpatrick's; Gir|venmains, Sir T. Kennedy's; Stair, Earl of Stair's;

Renfrew.

Paisley, Earl of Dundonald's; Castle-Cruikston and Inchinnen, late Duke of Lenox's; Cordonal, Lord Blantyre's; Nether-Pollock, Sir John Max|well's; Arskine, Lord Blantyre's; Castle-Semple, Lord Semple's; Greenock, Sir J. Shaw's; Houston, Houston's; Stainly, Johnston's; Finlaston, Earl of Glencairn's; Pollock, Sir R. Pollock's; Ardgouan, Sir. A. Stewart's; and many others, besides Ellersly, of which was the Family of the great Wallace.

Clydsdale.

Dowglas Castle, Duke of Dowglas's; Hamilton, Duke of Hamilton's; Carmichael, Earl of Hynd|ford's Halk-head, Lord Rosse's; Carnwarth, Mr. Lockhart's; Lee, Sir — Lockhart's; Malesley, Mr. Carmichael's; Crawford, Earl of Selkirk's; Lamington, Mr. Baillie's; Rosehall, Sir James Ha|milton's Torrence, — Stewart's; Dolphing|ton, Mr. Brown's; &c.

Stirlingshire.

The chief Families of this County are the Leving|stons, of whom the Earl of Callendar, a Branch of the Family of Lithgow, had a Seat nere at Callendar-Castle, and was hereditary Sheriff of County; and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 •…•…mings, who •…•…ve their Seats at Cum|•…•…rr•…•…, which they had from King R•…•… Bruce, for their noble Service in Defence of their Country; the Lord Elphinston, who has ••is Seat at Elphinston-Castle; the Murrays, S•…•…, Grahams, Napers, Buchanans, Bruces, Stirlings, &c.

Other Seats here are, Bannockburn, Sir H. Pater|son's; Kilsyth, Viscount Kilsyth's; Dunipace, Sir

Lenox.

Mugdock-Castle, Duke of Montrose's; Roseneath, Duke of Argyll's; Rosedue, Colquhon's; Ardin|caple, Mackalan's; and many others.

Argyllshire.

Lochgaer, Sir J. Campbel's; Kilchurn, Earl of Braidalbin's; and many others of the Campbels, Macdowgals, &c.

Perthshire.

Blair-Castle and Hunting-Tower, Duke of Athol's; Taymouth, Earl of Braidalbin's; Methuen, Mr. Smith's; Kincardin, Duke of Montrose's; Duplin, Earl of Kinnoul's; Stobhall, Earl of Perth's; Machiney and Incheffrey, Viscount Strathallan's; Scone, Viscount Stormont's; Gask, Mr. Oliphant's; Balgowan, Mr. Graham's; Abercarny, Sir — Murray's; Duncrob, Lord Rollo's. Many other considerable Gentlemens Seats are in this County; the principal Families are the Murrays, the Hays, the Stuarts, Drummonds, Campbels, Grahams, Oli|phants, Ruthvens, Ogilvies, Haldens, Robertsons, Rollos, Kinnairds, Blairs, Toschobs, Menzies, Ful|lertons, Nairns, Rosses.

Clackmanan.

Alloway, late the Earl of Mar's; Kennet, Col. Bruce's; Menstry, late Sir James Holburn's; Tilli|body, Abercromby's; Tillicutry, Stewart's; Saw|chie, Sir John Shaw's of Greenock.

Fife.

Castle-Lesley, Earl of Rothes's; Struthers, Earl of Crawford's; Weems, Earl of Weems's; Kelly,

Angus.

Dun, Erskin's, Lord of Session; Inglishmady, Falconer's of Newton; Hetherwick, Mr. Scot's; Burowfield, Mr. Taylor's; Fullerton, Mr. Fuller|ton's; Pittarow, Sir David Carnagy's; Newmans Walls, Mr. Scot's of Logy; Galro, Mr. Falconer's; Brime, Turnbull's of Stircathro; Edgeyill, Mr. Lindsay's; Old Bar, Mr. Robert Young's; Carse, Lyon's; Morphie, Mr. Graham's; Loggy, Mr. Wishart's; Balmiquien, Barclay's; Kirktownhill, Ferguson's; Grange, Mr. James Martin's; Achter|house, Mr. Patrick Lyon's; Maine, Mr. David Graham's of Fintri; Castle Pouri, Mr. Pouri's; Lethem, Sir James Wood's of Bonitoun; Bonitoun, Mr. Ferguson's; Montrose, Earl of Middleton's; Craig and Rossie, Scot's of Rossie; Duinald, Mr. Robert Scot's; Ulysses-Haven, Mr. Patrick Renny's; Glamis, Earl of Strathmore's; Panmure and Bre|chin, Earl of Panmure's; Kinnard, Earl of South|esk's; Ethie, Earl of Northesk's; Carriston, Stewart's of Garntully; Fotheringham, T. Fother|ingham's;

Merns.

Halkerton, Lord Halkerton's; Arbuthnot, Vis|count Arbuthnot's; Fetteresso, Earl Marshal's; Elsick, Sir Alexander Bannerman's; Leys, Sir Thomas Burnet's; Balmain, Sir David Ramsey's; Fetter|cairn, Earl of Middleton's; Glenbervy, late Sir — Dowglass's; Benholm, Mr. Scot's; Pittarrow, Sir James Carnagy's; Fordon, Arbuthnot's; Fasque, Sir Alexander Ramsey's; Phesdo, Falconer's; Kirkside, Straton's, &c.

Aberdeenshire.

Kildrummy, late Earl of Mar's; Inverugy, Earl Marshal's; Keith-hall, Earl of Kintore's; Pitsligo, Lord Pitsligo's; Kainburgh, Col. Buchan's; Dal|gety, Earl of Errol's; Aboyn, Earl of Aboyn's; Muckwall, Lord Frazer's; Pitmedden, Sir Alex|ander Seton's; Knockhall, Mr. Woodny's; Drum, Mr. Irwin's; Cragievar, Sir Arthur Forbes's; Tolquham, Mr. Forbes's; Monemusk, Sir William Forbes's; Castle-Forbes, Lord Forbes's; Crathes, Sir Thomas Burnet's of Leyth; Frendraught, late Lord Frendraught's; Philorths, Lord Salton's; Fet|terneer belongs to Count Lesly in Germany; Fyvi••, late Earl of Dumfermling's; Tyri, Mr. Frazer's; Kelly, Earl of Aberdeen's; Udoch, Mr. Symson's.

Shire of Bamff and Buchan.

Other Seats in this County are, Cullen and Desk|ford, the Earl of Finlater's; Indruer, Lord Bamff's; Craig of Boyne, Ogilvie of Boyne's; Birkenboge, Sir James Abercrombie's; Park, Sir John Gordon's; Durn, Sir James Dunbar's; Fotherglen, Sir Alex|ander Ogilvie's; Rothemay, Mr. Gordon's; Pit|tendrish, lately Lord Oliphant's; Kinardie, Mr. Donaldson's; Castle-grant, the Laird of Grant's;

Murray and Elgin.

The chief Seats in both Shires are, Gordonstoun, Sir Robert Gordon's; Kilravock, Mr. Rose's; Cal|der, Sir — Campbel's; Lethin and Brody, Mr. Brodie's; Muirton, Sir James Calder's; Castle Forres, Dumbar's of Westfield; Castle-grant, Sir — Grant's; Tarnaway, Earl of Murray's; Spy|nie, late Bishop of Murray's; Elgin, Duke of Gordon's; — Lord Duffo's; Innes, Sir H. Innes's.

Shire of Inverness.

Castle-Urchart, Sir Ludowick Grant's; Glengary Castle, Macdonald's; Dunvegan, Macleod's; Dun|tulm, Sir Donald Macdonald's of Slate; Dalcross, Mackintosh's; Done, Lord Lovat's; Ercules, Chisholm's of Comeris; Glenmoriston, the Laird of Grant's; Lochyel, Sir Ewen Cameron's, &c.

Cromarty.

Cromarty Castle; Sir Ken. Mackenzie; Castle-Leod, Earl of Cromarty; New Tarbat, ditto; Castlehaven, ditto.

Ross.

Fowlis-Castle, Monroe's; Beaulieu, Lord Lovat's; Milton, Innes; Balnagowan, Rosse's; Brahan-Castle, late Earl of Seaforth's; Red-castle, Mr. Mac|kenzie's; Craig-house, Rosse of Kilraock's; Inner|brochy, Sir William Gordon's; Pittonarchy, Mac|kenzie's of Scatwel, &c. Ylendonen Castle, the

Sutherland and Caithness.

The chief Families here are the Gordons, Suther|lands, Murrays, Mackays, Crays, Clancummins, Seil-Thomas's, Seil-Johns, Seil-Phaleys. Castle-Sinclair is the Seat of the Earl of Caithness. Earl of Braidalbin has great Estates in Caithness. The Sinclairs once possessed Orkney and Shetland, and were allied to the Royal House of Denmark, as I have observed before. The Keiths and Mowats have Possessions in Caithness. Thurse-Castle was a Seat that belonged to the Bishop of Caithness; Dumheath is Sir W. Sinclair's of May; Scelbo, Lord Duffus's; Murkle, Earl of Caithness's; Hemprigs, Sir W. Dunbar's; Duren, Mr. Sinclair's, &c.