A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.3]

LETTER I. Containing a Description of the Counties of LINCOLN, RUTLAND, NORTHAMP|TON, HUNTINGDON, and BEDFORD.

SIR,

_FROM Newark, still keeping the Foss|way, which lies as strait as a Line can mark it out, we went on to Lincoln, having a View of the great Church call'd the Minster all the Way before us, the River Trent on the Left, and the Downs call'd Lincoln-Heath on the Right.

Lincoln is an antient City, govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It is so full of the Ruins of Mona|steries, and Religious Houses, that the very Barns, Stables, Out-houses, and, as they shew'd me, some of the very Hog-styes, are built Church-fashion; that is to say, with Stone-Walls, and arch'd Win|dows and Doors. Here are 13 Churches, but the meanest to look on that are any-where to be seen. The Cathedral indeed, and the Ruins of the old Castle, are very venerable Pieces of Antiquity.

Lincoln was a Colony of the Romans, and by them nam'd Lindum Colonia, which very easily falls into the present abbreviated Appellation, Lincoln. From its bold and noble Situation upon an high Hill, it seems a Collection of Five Cities. For, first, be|low the Hill, and Westward of the City, the River throws itself into a great Pool called Swan-pool, from the Multitude of Swans upon it. All around this Place the Ground is moory, and full of Bogs and Islets; and the Place is called now Carham, i. e. a Dwelling upon the Car, or Fen. Here was the British City in the most early Times, which they used as a Fastness for themselves and Cattle in Times of deep Distress. From this Carham is a pleasant View of the West-Front of the Cathedral.

2. The Romans, pleas'd with this Eminence, placed their City upon it, which they first built in the Form of a large Square, the Southern Wall be|ing sufficiently secur'd by the Precipice. Quite round the other Three Sides they carried a deep Trench, which still remains, except on the South|east Angle. This City was divided into Four equal Parts by Two cross Streets. The Two Southern Quarters were taken up, one by the Castle, the other by the Church which Remigius built. But when Bishop Alexander projected a Structure of much larger Dimensions, the Inclosure was carried beyond the Eastern Bounds of the City, and a new Wall built

farther that way, as at present, with Battlements and Towers. The North Roman Gate of this Part of the City still remains intire, call'd Newport Gate, and the noblest Remnant of this Sort in Bri|tain. It is a vast Semicircle of Stones laid together without Morter, and cemented only by their wedge|like Shape. This magnificent Arch is 16 Feet Dia|meter, the Stones Four Feet thick at Bottom. From this Gate Eastward some Part of the old Roman Wall is to be seen, made of Stone, and very strong Mortar. The West Gate towards the Gallows was pulled down within Memory. That on the South Side still shews one Jamb from between the Houses, and two or three Stones of the same Make as the former: the rest has been pull'd down by Mr. Houghton. On the East Side one Postern is visible, and big enough for a Bed to stand in. By Newport Gate is another large and curious Piece of Roman Workmanship, call'd the Mint-wall. This is still 16 Feet high, and above 40 Feet long, composed of Brick and Stone, laid alternately.

3. The Romans, finding this City well situated for Navigation, added another to it as big as the former. This they did Southward upon the Decli|vity of the Hill, and so made it parallel with the other; and the most Southern Side lay upon the River. East|ward, the Ditch without is turn'd into a broad Street call'd The Beast-Market, and there below Claskgate a great Part of the old Roman Wall is left, made of Stone. One Piece of it is now 80 Feet long, and 18 high. A little of it lower down is 12 Feet long, and as much high. Between that Gate upwards, and the old City-wall, by the Greestone-stairs, the old Ditch call'd Weredyke, is to be seen. To the West the Ditch and Foundation of the Wall are still lost tho' many times repaired and demolished in the frequent Sieges this Town has sustain'd, especially in the Wars of the Empress Maud. At the Bottom

of it, towards the Water, is a round Tower, named Lucy-tower, much known in her History.

4. Another great Addition to the Length of this City, Northward above the Hill, was call'd Newport, or the new City, 500 Paces long. This probably was done in the Time of the Saxon Kings. It lies on both Sides the Hermen-street, and was fenc'd with a Wall and Ditch hewn out of the Rock. At the Two farther Corners were round Towers, and a Gate, the Foundations of which remain. There were several Churches, and religious Houses, in this Place. It was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had settled here in great Numbers, and grown rich by Trade. There is a Well still nam'd Grantham's-well, from a Child they impiously crucified, as was said, and threw it into that Place.

5. After the Norman Conquest, when a great Part of the first City was turn'd into a Castle, by King William I. it is probable they added the last Intake Southward in the Angle of the Witham, and made a new Cut call'd Sinsil-dyke on the South and East Side for its Security. It is observable, that the Normans could not well pronounce Lincoln, but vi|tiated it to Nichol, as we find it written in some old Authors: and to this Day a Part of the Swan-pool is call'd Nichol-pool.

Tho' since those Times the City has much de|clin'd, of late it seems to revive, and Trade and Ma|nufactures to flourish.

In this last Part of Lincoln, on both Sides the Ro|man Road, were many of that People's funeral Mo|numents; some of which they now dig up. There is an Inscription of that Sort behind the House where the Lord Hussey was beheaded for Rebellion in the Time of King Henry VIII. The great Bow-win|dow, thro' which he pass'd to the Scaffold, was lately taken down. It stands over-against another Stone Building, of an antique Model, which was

the Palace of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, who lived here in Royal State, and had the Privilege of Coining. His Arms are here carv'd in Stone. Over-against the Castle, Westward, is an Entrench|ment made by King Stephen.

The Situation of the City, from what I have said, must appear very particular; one Part is on the flat, and in a Bottom, so that the Witham, a little River, that runs through the Town, flows sometimes into the Street: the other Part lies upon the Top of a high Hill, where the Cathedral stands; and the very steepest Part of the Ascent of the Hill, is the best Part of the City for Trade and Business.

Nothing is more troublesome than the Commu|nication of the upper and lower Town; the Street is so steep and so strait, that the Coaches and Horses are oblig'd to fetch a Compass another Way, as well on one Hand as on the other.

The River Witham is arch'd over, so that you see nothing of it as you go through the main Street; but it makes a large Lake on the West Side, and has a Canal, called the Poss-dike, by which it has a Com|munication with the Trent, whereby the Navigation of that River is made useful for Trade to the City. This River must have run into the Humber, had it not been broken off in the Middle by that great Val|ley under Lincoln, and turned into the Salt-marshes. Hence it is that the Stone upon this Western Cliff is full of Sea-shells. For the Shell-fish, when by the restless Motion of the Waters in the universal De|lage, they were carried into the midland Places, were hinder'd by the Weight of their Shells from regaining their original Stations; and thus were confin'd with|in the growing Stone. As a Testimony of which the Skeleton of a Crocodile, or some such Animal, in|closed in a broad flat Stone, was sent to the Royal Society from these Parts, by Dr. Stukeley, from whom we borrow this Observation.

There are very good Buildings in the upper City, and several Families of Gentlemen have Houses there, besides those of the Prebendaries and other Clergy belonging to the Cathedral.

The Cathedral is a magnificent Fabrick, and is reputed the largest in Extent of any Cathedral in England, except York. But there are in it many ob|vious Blemishes, which I shall particularly take No|tice of, in comparing it hereafter with York Minster. The Situation is infinitely to its Advantage, as it stands upon a high Hill, and is seen into five or six Counties. It has a double Cross or Transept. The West End receives a great Addition to its Breadth, by reason of Two Chapels on each Side of the Side-Ayles; but the Two Towers and Spires are very mean, tho' not for want of Height.

This Cathedral has many Bells; and particularly the Northern Tower is filled up, as one may say, with the finest great Bell in England, which is called Tom of Lincoln, being probably consecrated to Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury.—As loud as Tom of Lincoln is a Proverb. It weighs 4 Tons, 1894 Pounds, and will hold 424 Gallons Ale-measure; the Circumference is 22 Feet 8 Inches.

The Middle or Rood Tower is the highest in the whole Kingdom, and when the Spire was stand|ing on it, it must, in Proportion to the Height of the Tower, have exceeded that of old St. Paul's, which was 520 Feet. The Monks were so proud of this Structure, that they would have it, that the Devil looked upon it with an envious Eye; whence the Proverb of a Man who looks invidious and ma|lignant, He looks as the Devil over Lincoln. At pre|sent there are only four very ordinary Pinacles, one at each Corner. It has Two great Gate-houses or En|trances from the West. The lower Part of the Fr••••t, and of the Two Towers, are of Remigius's Building, as is easily discoverable by the Colour of

the Stones, and by the Manner of Architecture: but Alexander built the Additions upon it, as likewise the Body of the Cathedral, the Choir, and St. Mary's Tower, which once had a very lofty Spire. St. Hugh the Burgundian built the East End, or St. Mary's Chapel, (where he had a Shrine) and the Chapter|house, which is ceil'd with a beautiful Stone Roof, and one Pillar in the Middle.

The Cloisters and the Library are fine; and the latter is well furnished with printed Books and Ma|nuscripts.

Two Catharine-wheel Windows, as they are term'd, at the Ends of the larger Transepts, are re|markably fine for Bullion-work, and painted Glass.

Here are great Numbers of antique Brasses and Monuments.

South of the Church, upon the very Brow of the Hill, is the Bishop's Palace, built by Robert de Ches|ney, who gave Two great Bells. Bishop Bek, and other Successors, improv'd it into a Magnificence equal to the Cathedral. It stands just South of the Roman Wall. It had many large Bow-windows of curious Workmanship, looking over the lower City into Nottinghamshire. The Kitchen had Seven Chimneys. The Hall was stately. The Gate|house remains intire with the A•••…•••… of the Founders. This Palace was ruined in the Time of the Civil Wars; but might be rebuilt with no very great Ex|pence. As the Church is very large, so is the Re|venue of the Bishoprick, which was formerly im|mensely great, as may be seen by the Monasticon, where is an astonishing Account of the Wealth of the Place.

The Church, as it is the Seat of the Bishoprick, is not so antient as some others; the See being re|mov'd, since the Norman Conquest, from Dorchester, a little Town in Oxfordshire, on the River Thames, not far from Tame, of which I have spoken in its

Place; but the City is truly antient, and the Ruins of it tell us as much.

Mr. Camden says, King Vortimer, the valiant Bri|ton, dy'd here, and was buried in the Church of the great Monastery.

It is certain, as I have observ'd, that William the Conqueror built the Castle, to curb the potent Citi|zens; and the Ruins shew, that it was a most mag|nificent Work, well fortify'd, and capable of receiv|ing a numerous Garison.

The Bishoprick of Lincoln at that Time contain'd all that now is compris'd in the Dioceses of Ely, Peterborough, and Oxford, besides what is now its own; and 'tis still the largest Diocese in England; containing the several Counties of Lincoln, Leicester, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, and Part of Hertford; and in them 1255 Parishes, whereof 577 are Im|propriations; and there are in these Bounds six Arch|deacons, viz. Lincoln, Leicester, Bedford, Bucking|ham, Stow, and Huntingdon.

Here was the famous Battle fought between the Friends of the Empress Maud, Mother to King Henry II. and King Stephen, in which that magnani|mous Prince was overthrown and taken Prisoner.

Lincoln stands in a most rich, pleasant, and agree|able Country; for on the North, and South-east, the noble Plain call'd Lincoln Heath, extends itself, like the Plain about Salisbury, for above 50 Miles; viz. from Sleeford and Ancaster South, to the Bank of the Humber North, tho' not with a Breadth equal to the Length; for the Plain is hardly any|where above Three or Four Miles broad.

On the West Side of this Plain, the Trent Waters make a pleasant and rich Valley, running from New-ark to Gainsburgh, thence to Burton, and so into the Humber.

Gainsburgh hath a large and fine Market, and is very flourishing for Trade and Business, which hath

increased of late Years to the Detriment of Boston and Hull.

The Body of the Parish-church of this Place had been under a general Decay, and the Walls, Arches, and Pillars, so shaken and declin'd from their proper Position, that it was judged incapable of Repair. An Act of Parliament therefore passed in 1735, for pul|ling down and rebuilding it. It is famous for the Danes having landed here, when they came up the Trent.

Passing the Trent by a Ferry, you land in the Isle of Axholm, which is environ'd by the Trent and the Dun. Littleborough is the Agelocum or Segelocum of the Romans, a small Village Three Miles above Gainsburgh, just upon the Edge of the Water, and in a Nook. It seems only to have been environ'd with a Ditch, and was of a square Form. The Water ran quite round it; for to the West, where White's-bridge is, a watry Valley hems it in; so that it was sufficiently strong. The Church stands upon the highest Ground. The Trent has wash'd away Part of the Eastern Side of the Town. Foundations and Pavements are visible in the Bank. Here, an Urn, with the Coin of Domitian, was found; and great Numbers of Coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging, which they call Swine-pennies, because those Creatures sometimes rout them up, and the In|habitants take little Care to preserve them. Mr. Ella, Vicar of Rampton hard by, has collected several, and some valuable.

In 1718. Two Altars, handsomely moulded, of coarse Grit-stone, were dug up, which are set as Piers in a Wall on the Side of the Steps, which lead from the River to the Inn. Many very small Coins, like flatted Peas, call'd Mites, are also found. Mr. Hardy has a large Urn, with a Female Face on the Outside.

In this Field, near White's-bridge, are great Foun|dations of Buildings. Coins are often found at the lowest Edge of the Water, when the Tide is gone off, and in dry Seasons. On the East Side of the River has been a Camp.

By Tilbridge-lane, upon the Top of the Heath, is a Spring, which, according to the vulgar Report, flows and ebbs with the Trent, tho' at Five Miles Distance. The like is said of several others here|about.

Ten Miles from Lincoln Northward is Spittle, all the Way to which Place are Milliary Stones. 'Tis very pleasant Riding, being wholly Champaign or Heath. Of these Stones, I believe, some are Ro|man, others later Crosses to supply their Place. This was, no doubt, a Mansion, because hard by a little Beck runs thro' it. Here is an Hospital, said to be founded in the Year 1308. There are great Foun|dations all around, some of which perhaps are Ro|man. At present the Village consists of Two Farm-houses, a Chapel, an Inn, and a Sessions-house. Upon the latter, is this Inscription:

Haecce domus dat, amat, punit, conservat, honorat, Aequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos. 1620.

That is,

This Court does Right, loves Peace, preserves the Laws, Detects the wrong, rewards the righteous Cause.

To the Left is Normanby, where the last but one Duke of Bucks was born, and whence he assum'd his Title of Marquis.

Half a Mile East of the present Wintringham, stood the old Roman Town, now a Common, bounded by the Marshes upon the Humber. The City was plough'd up of late Years, and many An|tiquities found.

The present Wintringham is a dirty poor Place, but still a Corporation, and the Mayor is chosen only out of one Street next the old Town, where was a Chapel. The Bell of it now hangs in a wooden Frame by the Pillory. Here is a vast Jawbone or Rib of a Whale, which has remain'd Time out of Mind.

As the Middle of the Country is all hilly, and the West Side low, so the East Side is the richest, most fruitful, and best cultivated, of any County in Eng|land, so far from London. One Part is all Fen or Marsh Grounds, and extends itself South to the Isle of Ely. And here it is that so vast a Quantity of Sheep are fed, as makes this County and that of Lei|cester an inexhaustible Fountain of Wool for all the manufacturing Counties in England, as before ob|serv'd.

There are some good Towns on the Sea-coast, but I include not Barton, which stands on the Hum|ber, as one of them, being a straggling mean Town, noted for nothing but an ill-favoured dangerous Pas|sage, or Ferry, over the Humber to Hull; where, in an open Boat, in which we had about 15 Horses, and 10 or 12 Cows, mingled with about 17 or 18 Passengers, we were about 4 Hours toss'd about on the Humber, before we could get into the Harbour at Hull.

Well may the Humber take its Name from the Noise it makes; for in a high Wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the Crash and Dashing toge|ther of Ships.

Passing over Whitton Brook, a Roman Road goes directly to Aukborough, by that People call'd Aquis. Their Camp is now call'd Countess-close, from a Countess of Warwick, who, they say, liv'd there, at least own'd the Estate. The Roman Castle is square, 300 Feet each Side, very conveniently plac'd in the North-west Angle of Lincolnshire, as a Watch|tower

over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire. The Church is of good Stone, and has a square Tower; but the Choir is ruinous, and separated from the rest of the Church by a wooden Partition. Here are numerous Reliques of the Deluge, as Sea-shells, sub|terraneous Trees, &c.

In a square Plot, call'd The Green, is a round Labyrinth nam'd Julian's Bower, probably from the warlike Games in Use among the Roman and British Youth, call'd Ludi Trojani, and said by Virgil to be first introduc'd into Italy by Iulus the Son of Aeneas. And the Boys, to this Day, divert themselves with running in it one after another, and eluding their Play-fellows by their intricate Mazes. It seems that our Tournaments, so much in Fashion till Queen Elizabeth's Time, are Remainders of these antient Diversions.

Burton makes a pretty Prospect, has several Mills, and the Houses are pleasantly intermix'd with Trees. There are also Two Churches, one of which is so low in respect of the Precipice under which it stands, that a Person may almost leap from thence upon the Steeple.

At Barrow is a British Temple, vulgarly call'd a Castle.

A little Eastward hence is Thornton College, a great Abbey founded by William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, in the Year 1139. The Gatehouse is very perfect, being a vast Tower or Castle of great Strength both for Offence and Defence. Before it is a large Ditch, across which is laid a Bridge with Walls on each Hand, and Arches which support a broad Bat|tlement to keep off the Enemy. Before it are Two round Towers. There was a Portcullis at the great Gate, and behind it another Gate of Oak. Over the Gate are Three old clumsy Statues in the ordi|nary Niches; a Woman seeming a Queen, or the Virgin Mary; to the Right a Man with a Lamb,

probably St. John Baptist; and to the Left a Bishop, or Abbat, with a Crosier. Upon taking down an old Wall, they found a Man with a Candlestick, Table, and Book, who was supposed to have been immur'd. The whole Monastery was encompassed by a deep Ditch, and high Rampart, to secure the Religious from Robbers because near the Sea.

A Mile East of Thornton are the Ruins of another great Castle call'd Kelingholme.

In Goswel Parish Northward, is Burham, once a Chapel, which belong'd to the Monastery, now a Farm-house.

In the same Parish near the Humber is Vere-court, which belong'd to the antient Family of that Name.

The Land hereabout is good and well-wooded, and many Roman Coins are found.

Two Miles West of Thornton are the Ruins of a great Roman Camp, call'd Yarborough, which surveys the whole Hundred denominated from it. Mr. How|son of Kenington, which is hard by, has Pecks of Roman Coins found here.

Grimsby lies also on the Humber, but lower down towards the Ocean. It is a Mayor-town and Sea|port. But its Harbour is not very safe for Ships to ride in, as appeared at the Time of the great Storm in 1703. when all the Ships in that Road were dri|ven from their Anchors, and most of them lost. Here is a very large sumptuous Church.

We took the Round of the Sea-coast from hence Southward, all the Way to Boston, and pass'd thro' Saltfleet, Burgh, and Wainfleet, besides several Vil|lages lying on the Sea-side. The Two first are but inconsiderable Market-towns, but Wainfleet is a well-compacted Town and neat, tho' situated in the Fens. 'Tis noted for a fine Free-school, and giving an Addition to the Name of the Founder of it, who was call'd William of Wainfleet, afterwards Bishop of Winchester, and who founded also Win|chester College.

The River Witham crosses the County from Lin|coln to Boston, where it disembogues: at the Source of it is a little River of the same Name.

Between this River and the Sea-coast North-east, the several inland Towns of Bolinbroke, famous for giving Birth and Title to King Henry IV. also Title to Mr. Secretary St. John, one of the greatest Ge|nius's of the Age, tho' unhappy in some of his Politics; Spilsby, Horncastle, and Tattersal, on the South. About the Middle of this Division made by the Witham, lie Stanton, Market-rasen, Louth, and Binbroke; and higher up Northward, stand Kirton, Glandsord, Brigs and Caster.

Spilsby is a pretty good Town, and has a well-frequented Market.

Horncastle is almost surrounded with Water, and is a large well-built Town. But the rest are incon|siderable except Louth and Caster; the first has Two weekly considerable Markets, and is famous for a fine Spire Steeple, as high as that of Grantham.

Caster is the ancient Durobrivis, tho' Dornford retains somewhat of the old Name, where the Her|men-street cross'd the River by a Bridge of Brass, ac|cording to the Vulgar. At Chesterton is a large Tract of Ground, call'd The Castle-field, with a Ditch and Rampart around it. The Roman Road runs directly thro' it, and still retains its high Ridge. Beyond the River it extends for some Space upon the Meadow along the Bank; then forms an Angle, and proceeds full North. Caster is above half a Mile from it, upon the Hill. A Part of the Foundation of the Wall of the old Roman Camp is visible in the Street to the North-west Corner of the Church, un|der the Wall of the House, where the Minister lives. It may be known by the great Strength of the Mor|ter, built of the white Slab-stone of the Country. Underneath this lay the City; for below the Church|yard

the Ground is full of Foundations and Mo|saics.

In the Boot Alehouse Cellar is a Piece of a Pave|ment; as are many at Mr. Wright's, and in a Gar|den an intire one; besides great Numbers of Roman Coins, in the Possession of Mons. Baillardeau. In the plough'd Fields between the Town and the Ri|ver, toward Fordgreen, is a Tract which runs quite thro', whereon Corn grows very scantily. This is nothing but a Road laid with a deep Bed of Gravel, tho' the superstitious Country-people believe it was cursed by the Lady Kyneburg, the Abbess who built a religious House, which stood Eastward of the Church, and some Part of which still remains. This Meadow is call'd Norman-gate (or more properly, Dorman-gate) Field, from the Town, whose Foun|dations are found all about this Place; and also innumerable Coins, call'd Dorman-pence. Part of this is Berrystead, where Antiquities are daily dug up. Mill-field stands higher toward Peterbo|rough, where Mosaic Pavements, &c. are found, and seems to have been a little Citadel belonging to the Town.

Part of the Church is an antique Building, but new-modell'd. Upon a Stone over the Choir-door is a curious Inscription, importing that the Church was consecrated on the 17th of April 1114. The Steeple stands in the Middle of the Church. The Tower is a fine Piece of antient Architecture with semicircular Arches. The square Well by the Porch is Roman, surrounded with hewn Stone; and tho' it stands on a Hill, the Water is very high. At the East-end of the Church is a very old Cross.

A little higher up the River, near Wansford Bridge, a Gold British Coin was found, which is in the Pos|session of Mr. Maurice Johnson, an eminent Coun|sellor.

The Fen Country begins about Wainfleet, which is within Twenty Miles of Grimsby, and extends it|self to the Isle of Ely South, and to the Grounds opposite to Lynn-regis in Norfolk East.

This Part is indeed very properly called Holland; for 'tis a flat, level, and often drowned Country, like the Province of the same Name in the Low Countries; insomuch that the very Ditches are navigable, and the People pass from Town to Town in Boats, as they do there. Here we had the uncouth Musick of the Bittern, a Bird formerly counted ominous and presaging, and which, as some say, thrusts its Bill into a Reed, and others into a Bog, and then gives the dull, heavy Groan or Sound, like a Sigh; which is so loud, that 'tis heard Two or Three Miles Distance as some People say.

Here we first saw Boston, and making towards it, found it a Sea-port Town, at the Mouth of the Wi|tham.

The Tower is the highest and noblest in Europe, being 100 Yards, and is seen plainly 40 Miles round this level Country, and farther by Sea. The Octa|gon Lantern on the Top is very beautiful, and ad|mirable for the Thinness of the Stone-work. Mari|ners find it particularly useful to guide them into this Port, and even into the Mouth of the River Ouse; for in clear Weather 'tis seen quite out at Sea to the Entrance of those Chanels, which they call Lynn Deeps, and Boston Deeps, which are as difficult Places as most upon the Eastern Shore of Britain. This is particularly taken Notice of in an Act passed in the Reign of the late Queen Anne, for enabling Assess|ments to be made for Repairing and keeping in Repair this Church: in the Preamble to which it is de|scribed, as it deserves, as an antient, well-built Fa|brick; that the Tower thereof is very high, and an useful Sea-mark; and that it being situate near the Haven, a great Sum is necessary yearly to be raised,

to preserve it from a violent, constantly ebbing and flowing Water.

There was a prodigious Clock-Bell which could be heard Six or Seven Miles round; it had many old Verses round it, but Anno 1710. was knocked in Pieces, and the Inscription not taken.

Twenty Yards from the Foundation of this Tower runs the rapid Witham, thro' a wooden Bridge.

This Town abounded with religious Houses, whose Lands King Henry VIII. gave to the Town.

Queen Mary I. was a great Benefactress likewise to it, and gave them Lands called Erection Lands, to pay a Vicar, Lecturer, and Two Schoolmasters.

The Church is reckon'd the largest Parish-church without cross Ayles, in the Universe; 'tis 100 Feet wide, and 300 long within the Walls. The Roof is handsomely ceiled with Irish Oak, supported by 24 tall and slender Pillars.

Formerly the Town laboured under the Want of fresh Water, which was a great Discouragement to Merchants and others settling there. To remedy which Inconvenience, John Smyth of Heath, in the County of York, Esq procur'd an Act of Parliament which passed in the Reign of Queen Anne, to inclose Two Acres of the great Common, called The West Fen, for a Pond or Cistern, and to erect a Water-house and Mill upon the said Common, and other proper Edifices, and to lay Pipes from the Pond for supplying the Town.

The Town is large, populous, and well-built, full of Merchants, and has a good Share of foreign Trade, as well as Lynn. 'Tis built on both Sides of the River Witham. It is a Corporation, governed by a Mayor, and 12 Aldermen. It has two Markets weekly, and a commodious Haven. Here is held one of those annual Fairs, which preserve the antient Title of a Mart, whereof I remember only Four in England of any considerable Note, viz. Lynn, Gainsburgh,

Beverly, and Boston. Its Trade of late Years has not increased.

East of Boston was a Chapel called Hiptoft, and in the Town a Church dedicated to St. John, but both demolish'd. Queen Elizabeth gave the Corporation a Court of Admiralty over all the Sea-coasts here|abouts.

The Country round this Place is all Fen and Marsh Grounds, the Land is very rich, and feeds prodigious Numbers of large Sheep, and also Oxen of the largest Size, the best of which are driven to London Market; and from this Part, as also from the Downs or Heath above-mentioned, comes, as I have before noted, a great Part of the Wool, known, as a cre|ditable Distinction, because of its Fineness, by the Name of Lincolnshire Wool; which is sent in great Quantities into Norfolk and Suffolk, for the Manu|facturers of those Countries, and indeed to several other of the trading Counties in England.

These Fens are very considerable for their Extent; for they reach in Length, in some Places, 50 Miles, and in Breadth above 30: and as they are so level, that there is no Interruption to the Sight, any Build|ing of extraordinary Height is seen a long Way. For Example, Boston Steeple is seen upon Lincoln Heath, near 30 Miles; Peterborough and Ely Min|sters are seen almost thoughout the whole Level; so are the Spires of Lynn, Whittlesea, and Crowland, seen at a very great Distance, which adds some Beauty to the Country.

From Boston we came on thro' the Fen Country to Holbech, a little Market-town, and so on to Spald|ing, which is another Sea-port in the Level, but standing far within the Land on the River Welland, which almost incloses it. Here was nothing very remarkable to be seen as to Antiquity, but the Ruins of an old Monastery, of which the Monasticon gives a particular Description. There is a Bridge

over the Welland, and Vessels of about 50 or 60 Tons may come up to the Town; and that is suffi|cient for the Trade of Spalding, which is chiefly in Corn and Coal.

We must not pass by Crowland, another Place of great religious Antiquity, here being once a famous Monastery, the Remains of which are still to be seen. The Monks of Crowland were eminent in History, and a great many Stories are told of the Devils of Crowland also, and what Conversation they had with the Monks, which Tales are more out of Date now, than they were formerly.

The Abbey was founded 1000 Years ago by Athel|bald King of Mercia, in the midst of Bogs and Thorns, in Honour of his Chaplain Guthlac, who chose this Place to mortify in. The Foundation is laid on Piles of Wood, several of which have been found in tearing up the Ruins of the Eastern Part of the Church; for what remains is only Part of the West|end, and of that only one Corner in tolerable Re|pair, which is at present their Parish-church. In the Middle of the Cross stood once a lofty Tower, and in it was a remarkably fine Ring of Bells; the first, as is said in the County. The Roof, which was of Irish Oak finely carv'd and gilt, fell down about 40 Years ago, and Pieces of it are to be found in almost every House. People at Pleasure dig up the monumental Stones for private Use, and what are left in the Pave|ment are cover'd over with Shrubs. It was made a Garison in the late Civil Wars, and the Soldiers destroy'd the painted Glass in it. All the Eastern Part of the Body of the Church is intirely raz'd to the Foundation. The monastick Buildings, Cloi|sters, Hall, Abbat's Lodgings, are absolutely demo|lish'd. In the North-west Corner of the Church stands a strong Tower, with a very obtuse Spire, and a pleasant Ring of small Bells. Over the West Gate are the Images of divers Kings, Abbats, &c.

among the rest, Guthlac with a Whip and Knife, his usual Symbols.

Not far from the Abbey, is the Remnant of a little Stone Cottage, called Anchor-church-house, where was a Chapel, in which St. Guthlac was bury'd, and where he lived a Hermit.

Over-against the West-end of the Abbey, is the famous triangular Bridge, hardly to be equalled in Britain, if in Europe. It being too steep for Horses and Carriages to go over, they pass under it. 'Tis formed on Three Segments of a Circle meeting in one Point; and each Base, they say, stands in a dif|ferent County. Here meet the Rivers Nyne and Welland. So that the Bridge, being fixed at the very Point where they join, stands upon a Centre in the Middle of the united Waters; and then parting into Two Bridges, lands you one to the Right on Thorney, and one to the Left upon Holland. On one Side fits an Image of King Athelbald, Founder of Crow|land-Abbey, with a Globe in his Hand.

The Town of Spalding is not large, but pretty well built and well inhabited, and is a handsome and large Market-town; but for the Healthiness or Plea|santness of it, I have no more to say, than that I was very glad when I got out of it, as well as out of the rest of the Fen Country; for 'tis a horrid Air for a Stranger to breathe in.

The History of the Draining these Fens, by a Set of Gentlemen, called the Adventurers; the several Laws for securing and preserving the Banks, and di|viding the Lands; how they were by the extraordi|nary Conflux of Waters from all the Inland Coun|ties of England frequently overflowed, and some|times lay under Water most Part of the Year; how all the Waters in this Part of England, which do not run into the Thames, the Trent, or the Severn, fall together into these low Grounds, and empty themselves into the Sea by those Drains, as thro' a

Sink; and how by the Skill of these Adventurers, and at a prodigious Expence, they have cut new Chanels, and even whole Rivers, with particular Drains from one River to another, to carry off the great Flux of Waters, when Floods or Freshes come down either on one Side or on the other; and how, notwith|standing all that Hands could do, or Art contrive, yet sometimes the Waters do still prevail, the Banks break, and whole Levels are overflowed together; All this, and much more that might be said on so co|pious a Subject, tho' it would be very useful to have it fully and geographically describ'd, yet it would take up so much Room, that I cannot think of en|tering any farther into it, than just to mention, That an Act of Parliament lately passed to enable the Adventurers, Owners, and Proprietors of the taxable Lands, and the Owners and Proprietors of the free Lands in Deeping Fen, Pinchbeck, and Spalding South Fen, Therlby Fen, Bourn South Fen, and Croyland Fen, &c. in the County of Lincoln, containing in the Whole about 30,000 Acres, to raise a competent Sum for the effectual Draining and future Preservation of all the said Fens, accord|ing to their Agreement in that behalf, dated Febr. 23.1737, and to carry the said Agreement into Execution.

We shall only observe further, that Sir John Heath|cote, Bart. hath made so good a Progress in draining 366 Acres of the Therlby Fen Pastures, belonging to him, that he is particularly exempted from paying to|ward the Sums levied upon others by this Act.

These Fens of Lincolnshire are of the same Kind with, and contiguous to, those already mentioned in the Isle of Ely, in the Counties of Cambridge and Huntingdon; and here, as well as there, we see pro|digious Numbers of Cattle, which are fed up to an extraordinary Size by the Richness of the Soil.

Here are also an infinite Number of Wild-Fowl, such as Duck and Mallard, Teal and Wigeon, Brand-Geese,

Wild-Geese, &c. For the taking of the four first Kinds, here are a great many Decoys, from all which the vast Number of Fowls they take, are sent up to London.

The Accounts which the Country People give of the Numbers they sometimes take, are such, that one scarce dares report it from them. But this I can say, of my certain Knowlege, that some of these Decoys are of so great an Extent, and take such great Num|bers of Fowl, that they are let from 100l. to 3, 4, and 500l. a Year Rent.

The Art of taking the Fowls, and especiaally of Breeding up a Set of Creatures, called Decoy-Ducks, to intice and then betray their Fellow-Ducks into the several Decoys, is very ingenious; and tho' 'tis not very easy to describe it, I will give it in as few Words as I can.

The Decoy-Ducks are hatched and bred up in the Decoy Ponds; in which are certain Places where they are constantly fed, and being made tame, they are used to come to the Decoy-Man's Hand for their Food.

When they fly abroad, it is not known whither they go, but some conjecture they fly quite over into Hol|land and Germany; where they meet with others of their own Kind, and sorting with them, they, by some Art, unknown to us, draw together a vast Number of the Fowls, and, in a Word, kidnap them from their own Country; for being once brought out of their Knowlege, they follow the Decoys, as a Dog follows the Sportsman; and 'tis frequent to see these subtle Creatures return with a vast Flight of Fowls along with them, after they have been ab|sent several Weeks together.

When they have brought them over, the first Thing they do is to settle with them in the Ponds, to which the Decoy-Ducks belong. Here they chatter and gabble to them in their own Language,

as if they were telling them, that here they should soon see how well they should live.

When the Decoy-Men perceive they are come, and that they are gathering and increasing, they go secretly to the Pond's Side, under the Cover which they have made with Reeds, so that they cannot be seen, where they throw over the Reeds Handfuls of Corn, in such shallow Places, as the Decoy-Ducks are usually fed, and whither they are sure to come for it, and to bring their new Guests with them for their Entertainment.

This they do for two or three Days together, and no Harm follows to the poor Strangers, till throwing in this Bait one time in an open wide Place, an|other time in another wide Place, the third time it is thrown in a narrower Place; where the Trees, which hang over the Water and the Banks, stand closer together; and then in another yet narrower, where the said Trees are over-head like an Arbour, tho' at a good Height from the Water.

Here the Boughs are so artfully managed, that a large Net is spread near the Tops of the Trees among the Branches, and fastened to Hoops which reach from Side to Side. This is so high, and so wide, and the Room is so much below, and the Water so open, that the Fowls do not perceive the Net above them.

Here the Decoy-Man keeping unseen, behind the Hedges of Reeds, which are made perfectly close, goes forward, throwing Corn over the Reeds into the Water. The Decoy-Ducks greedily fall upon it, and, calling their foreign Guests, seem to tell them, that now they may find, how well the Ducks live in England; so inviting, or rather wheedling them forward, 'till by degrees they are all gotten under the Arch or Sweep of the Net, which is on the Trees, and which by degrees, imperceptibly to them, de|clines lower and lower, and also narrower and nar|rower,

till at the farther End it comes to a Point like a Purse; though this farther End is quite out of Sight, and perhaps two or three hundred Yards from the first Entrance.

When the whole Flight of Ducks are thus gree|dily following the Decoys, and feeding plentifully as they go; and the Decoy-Man sees they are all so far within the Arch of the Net, as not to be able to escape, on a sudden a Dog, which till then keeps close by him, and which is perfectly taught his Busi|ness, rushes from behind the Reeds, and jumps into the Water, swimming directly after the Ducks, and barks as he swims.

Immediately the frighted Ducks rise upon the Wing to make their Escape; but are beaten down again by the arched Net, which is over their Heads. Being then forced into the Water, they necessarily swim forward, for fear of the Dog; and thus they croud on, 'till by Degrees the Net growing lower and narrower, they are hurried to the very farther End, where another Decoy-Man stands ready to receive them, and who takes them out alive with his Hands.

As for the Traitors, that drew the poor Ducks into this Snare, they are taught to rise but a little Way, and so not reaching to the Net, they fly back to the Ponds, and make their Escape; or else, being used to the Decoy-Man, they go to him fearless, and are taken out as the rest; but instead of being killed with them, are strok'd, made much of, and put into a little Pond just by him, and plentifully fed for their Services.

There are many Particulars in the managing and draining these Levels, throwing off the Water by Mills and Engines, and cultivating the Grounds in an unusual manner, which would be very useful to be described; but the needful Brevity of this Work, will not admit of it: yet something of it may be touched upon.

• 1. That here are some wonderful Engines for throwing up Water, and such as are not to be seen any-where else; whereof one in particular threw up (as they assured us) 1200 Tons of Water in half an Hour, and goes by Wind-Sails, 12 Wings or Sails to a Mill.
• 2. Here are the greatest Improvements by Plant|ing of Hemp, that, I think, are to be seen in England; particularly on the Norfolk and Cam|bridge Sides of the Fens, as about Wisbech, Wells, and several other Places, where we saw many hundred Acres of Ground bearing great Crops of Hemp.
• 3. Here is a particular Trade carried on with London, which is no-where else practised in the whole Kingdom, that I have met with, or heard of, viz. For carrying Fish alive by Land-Car|riage; this they do by carrying great Buts filled with Water in Waggons, as the Carriers draw other Goods. The Buts have a little square Flap, instead of a Bung, about 10, 12, or 14 Inches square, which, being opened, gives Air to the Fish: and every Night, when they come to the Inn, they draw off the Water, and let more fresh and sweet Water run into them again. In these Carriages they chiefly carry Tench and Pike, Pearch and Eels, but especially the two former, of which here are some of the largest in England.

Whittlesea and Ramsey Meres are Two Lakes, made by the River Nyne, which runs through them; the first is between Five and Six Miles long, and Three Miles broad, and is indeed full of excellent Fish for this Trade.

The Hermen-street goes in a strait Line thro' great and little Stukely, antiently written Styvecle, which Name it acquir'd from its stiff clay Soil. In Great Stukely Church is a Font of a very antique Make.

The Hermen-street, after this, becomes notorious by the Name of Stangate. Near Stilton some Parts ap|pear still pav'd with Stone, which strengthens the Conjecture, that the Name Stangate was given it from thence. It traverses great Woods between the Two Saltries, where was a religious Foundation of Simon Silvanect, the second Earl of Huntingdon and Northampton; among the Ruins of which lie bu|ried Robert Brus, Lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with Isabel his Con|sort, from whom the Scotish Branch of our Royal Family is descended. Near the Road Side Roman Urns have been dug up.

Half a Mile out of the Road is the Seat of Sir Robert Cotton, the learned Friend of the great Cam|den, where he had a choice Collection of Roman In|scriptions from all Parts of the Kingdom. The House was built in a magnificent manner of hewn Stone; but now lies in dismal Ruins. By it is a most beautiful Church, with a Tower; and in the Windows is fine painted Glass. From those Woods above-mention'd, your Eye commands the whole Level of the Fens, particularly Whitlesey-mere, where the Gentry have little Vessels to sail in for Pleasure. Sir Robert Cotton, digging the Foundation of a House on the Hill whence you enjoy this Prospect, found the Skeleton of a Fish, 12 Feet long.

A little to the Right lies Ramsey, famed for a rich Abbey; little of which is now left, but a Part of the old Gate-house. In the Yard I saw a ne|glected Statue of the Founder Alwyn, who was called Alderman of all England, and was Cousin to King Edgar, and Son of Duke Athelstan, surnamed Half-King. This is one of the most antient Pieces of English Sculpture which we know of. The Keys and ragged Staff in his Hand denote his Office. The Abbey was dedicated to St. Dunstan of Canter|bury, and St. Oswald of York, and was a rich Foun|dation,

and at the Dissolution valued at 1716l. per Annum. for the Maintenance of 60 Monks. In the Year 1721. a great Quantity of Roman Coins were found at Ramsey; which were believed to be hid there by the Monks upon some Inroad of the Danes.

At every Mile from Grantham to Stangate are Stones set up by Mr. Boulter, which he design'd to have carry'd on to London, for the general Benefit.

All the Country between Huntingdon River and Peterborough River, is Clay, Sand, and Gravel; but beyond that, to the Humber, Stone.

At Gunworth Ferry over Peterborough River is a Bridge, a few Years ago erected, where Boats pay Toll. The People of Peterborough were a good while averse to having their River made navigable, out of an absurd Notion, that it would spoil their Trade. But they begin to be better inform'd, or, as I may say, to have more Wit, on the Progress made in that Navigation, which I shall mention more par|ticularly by-and-by, when I come to Oundle.

From the Fens, longing to be delivered from Fogs, and stagnate Air, and Water of the Colour of brewed Ale, like the Rivers of the Peak, we first set Foot on dry Land, as I called it, at Peterborough.

But before we enter it, we must not omit to take some Notice of Foderinghay Castle, situate on a Branch of the Nyne, famous for the Imprisonment and Decollation of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. It seems to have been very strong, and it had a high Mount or Keep, inviron'd with a deep Ditch. 'Tis mostly demolish'd, and all the Materials carry'd off; some say it was destroy'd by Order of King James I. in Revenge of his Mother's Sufferings. They pretended to shew me here the Ruins of the Hall, where that Princess was beheaded. It was the Seat of Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, whose Body was bury'd in the Collegiate Church here; a

very neat Building founded by Edward Duke of York, likewise interred here. The Chancel in which they were bury'd, was intirely demolished at the Sup|pression; but these Monuments were restored by Queen Elizabeth. The Church Windows are filled with handsome painted Glass, sav'd by a Sum of Money to the Soldiery in the late Civil War, and represent St. Denys, St. Guthlac, Abp. Scrope, &c.

Peterborough stands in Northamptonshire, and is a little City of great Antiquity seated on the River Nyne, and indeed 'tis the least in England; for Bath, or Wells, or Ely, or Carlisle, are all much big|ger; yet Peterborough is no contemptible Place nei|ther. Here are some good Houses, a handsome Mar|ket-place, and the Streets are fair and well-built; but the Glory of Peterborough is the Cathedral, which is truly fine and beautiful, and the noblest Piece of Gothick Building in England; but it appears to be more modern, than the Story of raising this Pile implies, which was near 1050 Years ago. It wants only, to make it complete, a fine Tower Steeple, and Spire on the Top of it. A Mayor, Aldermen, and Recorder, are the chief Magistrates here.

In this Church was buried the Body of the un|happy Mary Queen of Scots above-mentioned, but it was afterwards removed by King James I. her Son, into Westminster-Abbey, where a Monu|ment is erected for her, in King Henry VIIth's Chapel; tho' some do not stick to tell us, that tho' the Monument was erected, the Body was never remov'd.

Here also lies interred Catharine of Spain, another unhappy Queen, and the divorc'd Wife of King Henry VIII. and Mother to Queen Mary I. Her Monument is not very magnificent, but 'tis far from mean. Here is an old decayed Monument of Bishop Wulfer, the Founder of the Church; but this Church has so often been burnt and demolished since tha••

Time, that 'tis doubtful, whether the Monument be authentick or not.

In the Cathedral is the Figure of one Scarlet, a Sexton, who buried the above named Two Queens, one 50 Years after the other, and under it the fol|lowing Inscription:

You see old Scarlet's Picture stand on high, But at your Feet there doth his Body lie. He did interr Two Queens within this Place, And this Town's Housholders in his Life's Space Twice over; but at length his own Turn came: Another Man for him should do the same.

He died at 95 Years old.

The Chapel here, called St. Mary's, is a very cu|rious Building, tho' now not in Use. The Choir has been often repaired and beautify'd, and is now very fine; but the West End, or great Gate, is a Prodigy for Beauty and Variety. 'Tis remarkable, that as this Church, when a Monastery, was famous for its great Revenues, so now, as reduced, 'tis one of the poorest Bishopricks in England.

In the Year 1720. at Thorp, the Seat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a Mosaick Pavement was found. This was undoubtedly a Villa of some Roman of Distinction. In the Garden are some fine antique Marble Statues, which suffer more from the Wea|ther than from Age. In the Middle is a Livia of a Colossean Proportion: in the Four Quarters, Diana, Amphion, an Orator, and a Gladiator: upon the Terrace, an admirable Hercules killing the Hydra: in the Court, Two Equestrian Figures in Copper, King Henry IV. of France, and Don John of Austria. Over most of the Doors of the House, are placed Bustoes of Bassianus, Caracalla, and others. These Antiquities were of the Arundel Collection.

As great Part of Lincolnshire, which is a vastly extended County, remained yet unseen by me, I was obliged to turn North from Peterborough, and take a View of the Fens again, tho' we kept them at some Distance too. Here we pass'd the Welland at Mar|ket Deeping, an old, ill-built and dirty Town. Then we went thro' Bourn to Folkingham, near which we saw two Pieces of decay'd Magnificence; one was the old demolish'd Monastery of Sempringham, the Seat of the Gilbertine Nuns, famous for Austerity; and the other was the antient House of the Lord Clinton, Queen Elizabeth's Admiral, where that great and noble Person once lived in the utmost Splendor. The House, tho' in its full Decay, shews what it has been, and the Plaister of the Ceilings and Walls in some Rooms is so fine, so firm, and so intire, that they break it off in large Flakes, and it will bear Writing on with a Pencil or Steel Pen, like the Leaves of a Table-book. This Sort of Plai|ster I have not seen any-where so prodigiously fine, except in the Palace of Nonesuch in Surrey, near Epsom, before it was demolished by the Lord Berkley.

From hence we cross'd Part of the great Heath mentioned before, and came into the high Road again at Ancaster, a small, but antient Roman Village, call'd Segeloci. It is full of Remnants of Antiquity; a sufficient Testimony of which may be deduc'd from the Traffick which the Town's-people have for many Years carry'd on with the Sale of them. After a Shower the Schoolboys and Shepherds look for them on the Declivities, and never return empty.

The Town consists of one Street, running North and South along the Road. There is a Spring at both Ends of the Town, which, no doubt, was the Reason for the Romans pitching it at this Place; for there is no more Water from hence to Lincoln.

On the West Side of the Town is a Road, for|merly design'd for the Convenience of those who

travelled when the Gates were shut. In the Church|yard are two Priests cut in Stone.

This must have been a populous Place, from the large Quarries about it, and the Rock lying a very little way beneath the Surface.

From Ancaster we came to Grantham, famous for a very fine Church, and its Spire Steeple. The ge|neral Notion, that this Steeple stands leaning, is cer|tainly a vulgar Error: I had no Instrument indeed to judge it by, but, according to the strictest Observ|ation, I could not perceive it, or any thing like it, and am much of Opinion with that excellent Poet:

'Tis Height makes Grantham Steeple stand awry.

The chief Magistrate here is an Alderman, assisted by Twelve Justices. This is a neat, pleasant, well-built and populous Town, has a good Market, and the Inhabitants are said to have a very good Trade, and to be generally rich.

It was certainly a Roman Town, and Remains of a Castle have been formerly dug up there. The Spire Steeple is 100 Yards high, and equalled only by an|other in this County at Louth, besides the Tower of Boston. Here were many Religious Houses: Ruins of some of which still remain. In one just by the Market-place, is a very pretty little Chapel or Ora|tory adorned with Imagery. Here is a good Free|school, erected by Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchestor; where Sir Isaac Newton received the first Principles of Literature, under the famous William Walker, then Schoolmaster. This Town lying on the great Northern Road is famous, as well as Stamford, for abundance of very good Inns, some of them fit to entertain Persons of the greatest Quality, and their Retinues, and it is a great Advantage to the Place.

Within a Mile of Grantham stands Belton, a late-built House belonging to the Family of Brownlow, Lord Tyrconnel in Ireland, one of the most regular

and beautiful Seats in this County; adorned with curious Gardens, and a large Park. But I should not omit to take some Notice, before I quit Lincoln|shire, of the Duke of Ancaster's pleasant Seat at Grimsthorpe. It is a handsome and commodious House: the Park is large and beautiful; the Lawn there, whereon is an annual Horse-race, is delightful. In the Middle of the Park stood Vaudy Abbey, founded Anno 1147, some small Ruins of which are still to be seen.

From a Hill, about a Mile beyond this Town North-west, being on the great York Road, we had a Prospect again into the Vale of Bever, or Belvoir. which I mentioned before; and which spreads itself here into three Counties, to wit, Lincoln, Leicester, and Rutlandshires: also here we had a distant View of Belvoir Castle, which, 'tis supposed, took its Name from the Situation, from whence there is so fine a Prospect over the Country, that you see from the Hill into Lincoln, Nottingham, Derby, Leicester, Rutland, and Northamptonshires. The Castle or Palace (for such it now is) of Belvoir is the Seat of the noble Family of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, who have also a very noble Estate, equal to the Demesnes of some Sovereign Princes, extending itself into Nottingham and Derbyshires far and wide, and in which Estate they have an immense subter|ranean Treasure, never to be exhausted; I mean the Lead-mines and Coal-pits, of which I shall say more in their Place.

In the fine Gallery of this noble Seat are very an|tient and modern Family and other Pictures, parti|cularly the Original one of King Charles I. as he sat at his Trial.

At Bottesworth, on the Edge of Lincolnshire, we visited the Tombs of the Manners noble Family, which are worth seeing.

The other Towns which lie on the South-west of the Witham in this County, not already mentioned, are;

• 1. Beckingham, an inconsiderable little Place lying North of Grantham.
• 2. Dunnington, a good Market-town, noted for large Quantities of Hemp and Hemp Seed.
• 3. Seaford, situate in a Valley on a little River, which is so rapid, that its Streams never freeze. It has a good Market, and a long, square Market-place facing Three Streets. And also,
• 4. Bourne, famous for the Inauguration of Edmund King of the East-Angles.

Turning Southward from hence we enter'd Rut|landshire, remarkable for being the least County in England, having but Two Market-towns in it, viz. Okeham and Uppingham.

Okeham stands in the rich Valley of Cathross. It has a Castle, in which the Assizes are held, an Hospi|tal for the Poor, and a Free-school for the Education of Youth. 'Tis a Custom in this Town, that when a Nobleman comes on Horseback within its Pre|cincts, he is obliged to pay Homage of a Shoe from his Horse, or to commute for it in Money.

Uppingham is a new well-built Town, standing on a Hill; and has also an Hospital and Free-school.

This County, tho' so small, is famous for abund|ance of fine Seats of the Gentlemen, and some of first Rank; as particularly the Earls of Gains|borough and Winchelsea. The late Earl of Notting|ham, at a very great Expence, rebuilt the antient Seat of Burleigh on the Hill, near Oakham, and on the Edge of the Vale of Cathross. It would take up too much of my Room to describe as I ought, this noble House, with its curious Paintings, fine Library, and delightful Gardens. I can only ob|serve, that tho' there may be some sumptuous Palaces

in England (which abounds with so many fine ones) that excel in this or that Particular; I do not know a House in Britain, which excels all the rest in so many Particulars.

I cannot help mentioning here, that I was drawn to make a Visit, in my Journey, to the Reverend Mr. Edward Roberts of Glaston, in this little County, purely for the sake of his excellent Character; and we were received by him with great Courtesy. This Gentleman had a very small Living in the County, the Income of which, with the Surplus of his Estate, he devoted to the Ne|cessitous; and of late Years had provided himself with all Sorts of Medicines from London, so that his Time was spent in relieving the Poor in a double Capacity, as a Divine and a Physician. He often refused Promotions in the Church, tho' his Rector|ship was accounted the poorest in the County; he disapproved Pluralities, and always look'd with Love on his Parish, as his Family: but this excellent Clergyman died a few Months after we were there, in March 1739-40, universally lamented. His Brother, Thomas Roberts, Esq died about Twelve Months before him, with as good a Character for a Lawyer, as this Gentleman had for a Divine; for he would give his Advice gratis, as well as his Practice, to all without Exception; and tho' a great Friend to the present Royal Family, would never accept of Place or Pension, and never would interfere in Elections, which he thought should always be left free, and uninfluenced.

From hence we came to St. Martins, and stopp'd at the George, out of Curiosity, because it is reckoned one of the greatest Inns in England, and thence pro|ceeded to Stamford. This Town is placed in a kind of an Angle of the County of Lincoln, just upon the Edge of Three Counties, viz. Lincoln, North|ampton, and Rutland: this Town boasts greatly too

of its Antiquity, and indeed it has evident Marks of its having been a very great Place in former Days.

History tells us it was burnt by the Danes above 1500 Years ago, being then a flourishing City: it was also once an University, and here are still the Remains of Two Colleges, one called Blackhall, and the other Brazen Nose; on the Gate whereof is a great Brazen Nose, and a Ring through it, like that at Oxford; nor could it take this from Oxford, but Oxford from that, which is as old as Edward III. at the least, while that at Oxford was not built before Henry VII. But the famous Camps, and Military Ways, which still appear at and near this Town, are a more visible Testimony of its having been a very antient Town, and that it was considerable in the Romans Time.

It is now a very fair, well-built, and wealthy Town, consisting of Six Parishes, including that of St. Martin in Stamford-baron; that is to say, in that Part of the Town which stands over the River, which, tho' it is not a Part of the Town, criti|cally speaking, being not in the Liberty, and in an|other County, yet 'tis all called Stamford, and is rated with it in the Taxes.

The Government of this Town is by a Mayor and Aldermen, and not, as some write, by an Alder|man, and 12 Comburgesses.

They boast in this Town of very great Privileges, especially to their Mayor; such as being freed from the Sheriff's Jurisdiction, and from being impanelled on Juries out of the Town; to have the Return of all Writs, to be freed from all Lords-Lieutenants, and from their Musters, and for having the Militia of the Town commanded by their own Officers, the Mayor being the King's Lord-Lieutenant, and im|mediately under his Majesty's Command, and to be esteemed (within the Liberties and Jurisdiction of the Town) the second Man in the Kingdom; and

the Grant of those Privileges concludes thus: Ut ab antiquo usu fuerunt, As of antient Time they had been accustomed: so that this Charter, which was granted by Edward IV. Anno 1461, seems to be only a Confirmation of former Privileges, not a Grant of new ones.

In the Church of St. Martin in Stamford-baron, is a very noble Monument of William Cecil Lord Burleigh, who lies buried there in a large Vault just under it; and opposite to it, on the North Side, is a more antient (but handsome) Monument, tho' not so magnificent as the former, in Memory of Richard Cecil, Esq and Jane his Wife, the Father and Mother of the said famous Lord Burleigh; also a more modern Monument for the great Earl who re|edify'd the House; and for his Countess, a Sister of the late Duke of Devonshire: this is a finished Piece, 'tis all of the finest Marble, and was made at Florence, and sent over. The said Earl died on his Return from Rome, at Issy near Paris, Aug. 29. 1700.

There is a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Welland of Five Arches, and the Town-hall is in the Upper-part of the Gate, upon or at the End of the Bridge, which is a very handsome Building. Here are Two constant Weekly Markets, Three annual Fairs, and a great Midlent Mart; but the latter is not now so considerable, as it is reported to have been formerly.

But the Beauty of Stamford is the Neighbourhood of the noble Palace of the Earl of Exeter, called Burleigh-house, built by the said Lord Burleigh, Lord High Treasurer to Queen Elizabeth.

This House is situated in Northamptonshire; it is built all of Free-stone, looks more like a Town than a House, at which Avenue soever you come to it; the Towers and the Pinacles so high, and placed at such a Distance from one another, look like so

many distant Parish Churches in a great Town; and a large Spire covered with Lead, over the Clock in the Centre, looks like the Cathedral, or chief Church of the Town.

The House stands on an Eminence, which rises from the North Entrance of the Park, coming from Stamford: on the other Side, viz. South and West, the Country lies on a Level with the House, and is a fine Plain, with Posts, and other Marks for Horse-races. As the Entrance looks towards the flat low Grounds of Lincolnshire, it gives the House a most extraordinary Prospect into the Fens, so that you may see from thence near 30 Miles, without any thing to intercept the Sight.

As you mount the Hill, you come to a fine Espla|nade, before the great Gate, or first Entrance of the House, where is a small, but very handsome Semicircle, taken in with an Iron Balustrade; and from this, rising a few Steps, you enter a most no|ble Hall, but made infinitely more noble by the in|valuable Paintings, with which it is so filled, that there is not room to place any thing between them.

John Earl of Exeter, Grandfather of his present Lordship, had a great Genius for Painting and Archi|tecture, and a superior Judgment in both, as every Part of this noble Structure will testify; for he changed the whole Face of the Building, pulled down great Part of the Front next the Garden, and turned the old Gothick Windows into those spacious Sashes which are now seen there; and tho' the Founder, who had also an exquisite Taste, (as the Manner of Buildings then was) had so well ordered the Situation and Avenues of the whole Fabrick, that nothing was wanting of that Kind, and had also contrived the House itself in a most magnificent manner, the Rooms spacious, the Ceilings lofty, and the Deco|rations just; yet the late Earl found Room for Al|terations, infinitely to the Advantage of the Whole;

as particularly, a noble Stair-case, a whole Suite of fine Apartments, with Rooms of State, fit for the Entertainment of a Prince, especially those on the Garden Side.

As the noble Lord above-mentioned loved Paint|ings, so he had infinite Advantage in procuring them; for he not only travelled Three times into Italy, and stay'd every time a considerable while at Florence; but his princely Deportment, and fine Accomplish|ments, procured him the personal Esteem of the Great Duke, who assisted him in the Purchace of many excellent Pieces, and likewise presented him with several others of great Value.

Among the rest, there is, in the great Hall, his Lordship's Picture on Horseback, done by the Great Duke's principal Painter, at his Highness's Charge, and given to his Lordship, as a Mark of special Fa|vour: there is also a fine Piece of Seneca bleeding to Death in the warm Bath, and dictating his last Morals to his Scholars; a Piece so excellent, that I have been told, the late King of France offered the Earl 6000 Pistoles for it.

The Stair-case, the Ceilings of all the fine Lodg|ings, the Chapel, the Hall, the late Earl's Closet, are all finely painted by the celebrated VARRIO, whom the Earl kept 12 Years in his Family, wholly imploy'd in them, and allow'd him a Coach and Horses, an Equipage, a Table, and Servants, and a very considerable Pension.

By the Park Wall, or, as some think, thro' the Park, adjoining to Burleigh-house, passed an old Roman Highway, beginning at Caster, a little Village near Peterborough; but which was antiently the Roman Station, or Colony, Durobrevum, as I have said. This whole Town takes in Three Squares of full 300 Feet each, two of which are allotted to the Castle: the third is an Area lying to the East before it, be|tween the Castle and the Hill, which is still the

Market-place. From under the Castle-walls, almost quite round, rise many quick Springs; but of these the Syfer Spring is the most noted, having now Four Fluxes of Water from between the Joints of great Stones, laid flat like a Wall, and join'd together with Lead, probably by the Romans, being under their Wall. It is very pleasantly overshaded with Trees. Its Name is Saxon, and signifies pure, which Appellation it well deserves. The Roman Way is still to be seen, and is now called The Forty-feet Way, passing from Gunworth Ferry (and Peterborough) to Stamford: This was, as the Antiquaries are of Opinion, the great Road into the North, which is since turned from Stilton in Huntingdonshire, to Wandsworth or Wandsford, where is a very good Bridge over the the River Nyne; which coming down from North|ampton, as I have observed already, passed thence by Peterborough, and so into the Fen Country. But I am of Opinion, neither this nor Wandsford was the antient Northern Road used by the Romans; for 'tis evident, that the great Roman Causway is still seen on the Left-hand of that Road, and passing the Nyne at a Place called Water Neuton, went directly to Stamford, and passed the Welland, just above that Town, but not in the Place where the Bridge stands now; and this Roman Way is still to be seen, both on the South and the North Side of the Welland, stretching itself on to Brig Casterton, a little Town upon the River Guash, about Three Miles beyond Stamford; which was, as all Writers agree, another Roman Station, and was called Guasennae by the An|tients, from whence the River is supposed also to take its Name; whence it went on to Panton, an|other very considerable Colony, and so to Newark, where it crossed the Foss.

Hence the Road goes by Stretton; then leaves a little on the Left-hand Colsterworth, highly memo|rable

for being the Birth-place of the great Philosopher, Sir Isaac Newton.

This Forty-foot Way then must be a Cross-road from Caster, and by that from the Fen Country, so leading into the great Highway at Stamford: as like|wise another Cross-road went out of the said great Road at Panton, a Village of Antiquity near Ancaster, to the Town of Ancaster, where a Roman Cohort was stationed, and thence joined the Foss again at Lincoln.

Near this little Village of Caster lives the Lord Fitzwilliams, of an antient Family, but of an Irish Title; his Lordship some Years ago built a very fine Stone Bridge over the River Nyne, near Gunworth, where formerly was the Ferry, as I have mentioned before; for the passing of which in a Coach, we paid 2s. 6d.

As we pass by Burleigh-park Wall, on the great Road, we see on the West Side, not above a Mile from it, another House, built by the same Lord Burleigh, and which might pass for a very noble Seat, were not Burleigh by. This is called Wathorp, and stands just on the great Roman Way, mentioned above; this is the House of which the old Earl is reputed to have said, he built it to remove to, and to be out of the Dust, while Burleigh-house was sweeping.

From hence we went to Oundle, being told that the famous Drum was to be heard at that time in the Well; but tho' we saw the Well, we heard no Drum, or any Noise at all. No Doubt, it is owing, if there be any thing in it, to the Passage of the Water and Air. Here are two long Stone Bridges. Lowick Church, on the Side of a Hill, is very fine. The Monuments of the Founder John de Drayton, of the Veres and Staffords, Earl of Wiltshire, &c. are to be seen here: as is that of the late Duchess of Norfolk, who, after her Divorce, married Sir John

Germayn, of Drayton-house, who in a manner in|tirely new built this antient Seat.

Oundle is almost surrounded by the River, over which it has Two handsome Stone Bridges. It is a neat, uniform-built Town.

The Nyne has a Range of eminent Towns along the Banks of it; viz. Northampton, Wellingborough, Higham-ferris, Thrapston, Oundle, Foderinghay, Wands|ford and Peterborough, all in this County. The two first I have already mention'd.

Higham-ferris is a small neat and healthful Mayor-town, pleasantly seated on a rising Ground, and is also an antient Borough.

Thrapston is delightfully situated in a fine Valley, and surrounded wlth a rich Soil, and well water'd. It has a fine Bridge over the Nyne; but is not emi|nent either for Trade or Buildings; tho' it will pro|bably soon change its Face by virtue of an Act passed for making the Nyne navigable; which has had so good an Effect, that, when I was last there, the 17th of November 1737, on that very Day Boats were brought up to Thrapston for the first time, which occasioned much Joy in the Town.

Here also is a most beautiful Range of Meadows and Pastures, perhaps not to be equalled in England for Length. They stretch, uninterrupted, from Peterborough to Northampton, which is near 30 Miles in Length, and in some Places are near two Miles in Breadth; the Land rich, the Grass fine, and the Cattle which feed on them, hardly to be number'd.

North-west of this River lies Kettering, a hand|some well-frequented Town upon a rising Ground; and beyond that again is Rothwell, a pretty good Market-town.

From Oundle we travelled North-east into Yarley in Huntingdonshire, a little Town tolerably well built.

The Church has a neat lofty Spire. In our Way hither we crossed the Watling-street Way. At Overton, now called Cherry Orton, a Village near Gunworth Ferry, is an old Mansion-house, formerly belonging to a very antient and almost forgotten Family of great Men, called Lovetoft. On the other Side of the River, is the fine House I mentioned before, belong|ing to Sir Francis St. John, Bart. which affords a very beautiful Prospect to Travellers, as they pass from the Hill beyond Stilton to Wandsford Bridge. This Wandsford has obtained an idle Addition to its Name, from a Story firmly believed by the Country People; viz. That a great Flood coming hastily down the River Nyne, in Hay-making-time, a Country Fellow, having taken up his Lodging on a Cock of Hay in the Meadow, was driven, on the Hay, down the Stream in the Night, while he was fast asleep, towards Wisbech in the Fens; when being wakened, he was seen and taken up by some Fishermen, almost in the open Sea; and being asked, Where he lived? he answered, At Wansford in England. And we saw at the great Inn, by the South End of the Bridge, the Sign of a Man floating on a Cock of Hay, and over him written Wandsford in England.

Falling down Southward we come to Stilton, a Town famous for Cheese, which is called our English Parmesan, and is brought to Table so full of Mites or Maggots, that they use a Spoon to eat them. We came again into the Roman Way at Stilton, which comes from Caster aforementioned, and runs all the way to Huntingdon; which we followed thro' Sautery-lane, a deep Descent between two Hills, in which is Stangate-hole, noted for being the greatest Robbing-place in all this Part of the County, and so came to Huntingdon, antiently called Hunters-dune, the County-town, situated on a rising Ground, on the North Side of the Ouse. It is a great Thorough|fair on the Northern Road, and is full of very good

Inns, and is a strong Pass upon the Ouse, and in the late Civil Wars, it was esteemed so by both Parties. It was given by King Stephen to David King of Scots, as an Augmentation to his Estate, and taken away by King Henry II. However, the Scotish Kings always claimed it.

It is a Mayor-town, and had antiently Fifteen Churches; of later Days, but Four, and in the Civil Wars they were reduced to Two. The Cause of its Decay at first, is said to be owing to a Court Minion, who procur'd the Passage of the Ouse to be stopped, which had been navigable to the Town. The said River is now made navigable for smaller Vessels to Bedford.

The Witches of Warbois, in this County, have made so much Noise, that I shall just mention the fatal End of a Man, his Wife and Daughter, who were all Three hanged for torturing the Children of a Gentleman in the Parish: the History of it is kept in Queen's College Library in Cambridge; and one of their Fellows preaches yearly, at Huntingdon, on that Occasion. The Children being sick, their Urine was sent to Master Dr. Dorrington at Cam|bridge, who sent a Medicine against Worms. That prevailing nothing, the Doctor, upon second Thoughts, pronounced the Symptoms were from Witchcraft. It was not long before a proper Family was suspected: the Woman and her Daughter were frequently sent for, and kept with the Children, and the Disease remitted upon the Sight of them; but chiefly upon a Confession, and a sort of Petition added to it. To this Effect was the Girl's: As I am a Witch, and a greater Witch than my Mother, so I desire, that the Pains shall go off from this Child. These Confessions were the chief Point against the Prisoners, which they had been prevailed upon to re|peat by the Stranders-by, who had observed the Children relieved upon it, as they imagined. And

thus Three unhappy Persons were sacrificed to Igno|rance and Superstition.

I shall take farther Notice of this Subject when I come to Lancashire, a County formerly famous for Witches, and where Persons likewise suffered for this pretended Crime.

Here are the most beautiful Meadows on the Banks of the River Ouse, that I think are to be seen in any Part of England; which, in the Summer Season, are covered with such numerous Herds of Cattle, and Flocks of Sheep, as are hardly credible.

This Town is one long continued Street, pretty well built, especially from the Ground Plot, where the Castle stood. Here was born Oliver Cromwell, of genteel and worthy Parents. The House is new|built, but the Room in which he was born is pre|served in its first State. It has a good Market-place; but the Free-stone Bridge, or Bridges rather, and Causway over the Ouse, are a very great Ornament as well as Benefit to the Place. Here is a good Publick School.

Between Godmanchester, or Gormanchester, (a Ro|man Camp) and Huntingdon, is a wooden Bridge erected over a Rivulet, upon Principles of Gratitude and publick Charity, with this Inscription:

ROBERTUS COOK emergens aquis hoc viatoribus
Sacrum D.D. 1636.

That is:

ROBERT COOK, having escaped the Danger of Drowning, consecrated this for the Use of Travel|lers, 1636.

On the West Side of this Town, and in View of the plain lower Side of the County, is a noble, tho' antient Seat of the Earl of Sandwich; the Gardens very fine and well kept; the Situation seems a little obscured by the Town of Huntingdon. In the same

Plain we saw Bugden, a small Village, in which is a very pleasant, tho' antient House or Palace of the Bishops of Lincoln: the House and Garden sur|rounded by a very large and deep Moat of Water. The Chapel is very pretty, tho' small. There is an Organ painted against the Wall, in a seeming Organ|loft, and so properly placed, and well painted, that we at first believed it really to be one.

Erith is a large Town, but without a Market.

St. Ives is a pretty neat Market-town, but is lessen'd, and suffer'd greatly by Fire. Here Crom|well, after he had prodigally wasted his paternal Estate, rented a Farm, before he was elected Burgess for Cambridge.

Hinchinbroke-house, which gives Title of a Vis|count to the eldest Son of the Earl of Sandwich, and the Village of the same Name, lie at a small Distance from Huntingdon. And a little Way South-west stands the Town of Kimbolton, and that most nobly situated and pleasant Seat of the Duke of Man|chester, Kimbolton Castle, where no Pains or Cost has been spared tu improve the most beautiful Situ|ation in Nature with the Works and Ornaments of Art.

Kimbolton Town is the Kiniubantum of the Romans. Here Queen Catharine, after she was divorced, resided for some time.

At Ailweston, in this County, are two Springs, one of fresh Water, good for dim Eyes; the other brackish, of Use for curing of Scabs, Leprosy, &c.

From Huntingdon we came to St. Neots on the Ouse, over which is a good Stone Bridge. The Church is strong and well built, and the Steeple manifests the Skill of the Artist, much to his Ad|vantage. The Town takes its Name from Neotus, a learned and pious Man, who was interred here; from whom likewise St. Neots, in Cornwall, takes its Name, where he for some time resided. Hither

Coals are brought by Water, and convey'd by Land around the Country.

Here we enter'd Bedfordshire, and came to Bed|ford, the chief Town; for it has no City in it, tho' this Town is larger and more populous than several Cities in England. It is one of the Seven Counties, which, they say, lie together, and have not one City among them; namely, Huntingdon, Bedford, Bucks, Berks, Hertford, Essex, and Suffolk.

It is remarkable, that tho' a great Part of this County, viz. the two whole Hundreds of Stodden and Bedford, lie on the North of the Ouse; yet there is but one Market-town in all that Side of the Ouse, beside Bedford.

It is also remarkable, that tho' the Ouse, by a long and winding Course, cuts thro' the County, so as to make above 70 Miles between Oulney and St. Neots, not above 20 by Land, yet in all that Course it re|ceives only the little River Ivel, which falls into it a little above Temsford.

Bedford is a large, populous, thriving, pleasant, and well-built Mayor-town; it has five Parish Churches, a very fine Stone Bridge over the Ouse, and the High Street (especially) is very handsome and well-built: here is also a fair Market-place; but it is much improved lately in new Buildings. The River hath also been made navigable, and runs thro' the Town. It had formerly a Castle, and now, where it stood, is one of the most beautiful Bowling-greens in the Kingdom. It has Two Hospitals for Lazars, and another for Eight poor People. Here is a Free-school well endow'd, and a Charity-school for Forty Children, and tho' the Town is not upon any of the great Roads in England, yet it is full of very good Inns, which afford elegant Entertainment; for here is the best Market for all Sorts of Provisions, that is to be seen at any Country Town in all these

Parts of England; and the Reason of it is, that, tho' it is so far from London, yet the Higglers or Carriers buy great Quantities of Provisions here for the London Markets; here also is a very good Trade down the River to Lynn.

Here likewise is a great Corn-market, and vast Quantities of Grain are bought here, and carried down by large Vessels and Barges to Lynn, where it is again shipped, and carried by Sea to Holland. The Soil hereabouts is exceeding rich and fertile, and par|ticularly produces great Quantities of the best Wheat in England, which is carried by Waggons from hence, and from the North Part of the Country 20 Miles beyond this, to the Markets of Hitchin and Hertford, and bought again there, and ground and carried in the Meal (still by Land) to London.

Indeed the whole Product of this County may be said to be Wheat and Malt for London; for here are very few Manufactures, except those of Straw Hats and Bone Lace; of which by itself. There are but Ten Market-towns in the whole County, which I shall recount as I took them in my Course.

Potton, which lies on the Borders of Cambridge|shire, and of no Note. Southward stands

Biggleswade, a pleasant situated Place on the Ivel, and furnished with a great Number of good Inns for accommodating Travellers between London and York. Still more Southward lies

Shefford, between two Rivulets; over each of which is a Bridge.

West of this Town stands Ampthill, a pretty Town, delightfully seated between two Hills. Near it is a large Park, with a great Mansion-house in it, which King Charles II. gave to the Noble Family of Bruce, who had their Title of Viscount from this Town; notwithstanding which, and that they were always Hereditary Stewards of the Manor of Ampt|hill,

yet the present Lord Bruce lately sold his whole Estate here to his Grace the Duke of Bedford.

Queen Catharine, after she was divorced, chose this Town as one of her Retiring-places. Farther Southward is

Woburn, noted for having Plenty of Fullers Earth near it; and likewise another Kind of Earth, which petrifies Wood into Stone. This Town, having been almost demolished by a terrible Fire, which happened a few Years ago, is now rebuilt, and makes no mean Appearance. It belongs almost all of it to his Grace the Duke of Bedford, who finished, in Feb. 1737, a fine and commodious Market-place here.

The Duke's House, called Woburn Abbey, is just by the Town, a good old House, and exceedingly pleasant by its Situation, which is in a fine large Park walled round. The Duke had once designed to have pulled down the old House, and to rebuild it in a magnificent manner: but laid aside that Reso|lution, and only repaired it. There are many noble Rooms in it, and particularly a very capacious and long Gallery, furnished with a great Variety of fine Pictures, chiefly of the Russel Family: the Wain|scoting of this noble Apartment is strewed, as one may say, with gilded Stars, which have a pretty Effect among the Pictures. A Room has been laid into this Gallery at one End, where a good Billiard-table is placed.

Before the House is a very large Bason of Water, surrounded with a fine broad Gravel-walk, which is bounded with Posts and Iron Chains. On the Water is a most beautiful Yacht of between 30 and 40 Tons Burden, elegantly carved and gilt, and completely rigged, and mounts Ten Guns, which are fired on Occasion of Entertainments, &c. given on Board her by his Grace. There is also an elegant Boat with a fine Awning over it, a Wherry of the com|mon Shape, and a Skiff, which are very neat, and

make a beautiful Appearance on this noble Bason of Water.

Near Woburn is Battlesden, the Seat of Thomas Page, Esq abounding with many Beauties, and still daily improving by additional Works in a very fine Taste.

Dunstable is seated on a Hill, in a chalky Ground, in the County of Bedford. It consists of Four prin|cipal Streets, answering to the Four Quarters of the World. It is well inhabited, and furnished with many good Inns for the Accommodation of Travel|lers. In the Centre stood one of Queen Eleanor's beautiful Crosses, which was demolished by the Par|liament Soldiers. The Situation of this Place being high, and no running Water near, they are forced to draw it up from deep Wells by means of great Wheels; and they have Four large Ponds to receive the Rain-water, which, as a Mark of the holding Quality of the Soil, are never dry, tho' they have no other Supply. They have sometimes dug 24 Fathoms deep, in Search of Springs, to no Purpose.

Kingsbury, once a Royal Seat, over-against the Church, is now a Farm-house. The Church is composed of many Pieces tacked together, as it were, some of which are very old. It was Part of the Priory, and Archbishop Cranmer was the last Prior, who here pronounced the Sentence of Divorce against Queen Catharine.

The Gentlemen of Bedford lately came to a laud|able Resolution of levelling the Chalk-hill near this Town, for the Benefit of the Road, which in a Frost, or after a Snower of Rain, used to be so slippery that neither Man nor Horse could keep their Feet, which occasioned often great Damage to both; to prevent which for the future, they imploy'd a Number of Hands to lower it.

Dunstable stands on the Roman Watling-street, just where it is crossed by Icknild-street. Here have

been Roman Coins frequently found; and on the De|scent of Chiltern Hills, not far from the Town, is a large round Area of Nine Acres, surrounded with a deep Ditch and Rampire called Mardin-hour. It was burnt by the Danes, and rebuilt by Henry I. to repress a vast Number of Robbers which infested the Country thereabouts; and it takes its Name from Dunning, one of the Thieves, and from Dun|ningcestaple it is now, by Contraction, called Dun|stable.

On the Borders of Buckinghamshire stands Leigh|ton, famous for a great Cattle and Horse-fair.

North-east of Dunstable, on the Edge of Hert|fordshire, lies Luton, a little pretty Town, seated very pleasantly amongst Hills, and noted for a good Market and Market-place.

This County is remarkable for having more Noblemens and Gentlemens Seats in it than any County in England. The Middle Part of the County is well stored with Wood, which affords a great deal of Game.

Thro' the whole South Part of this County, as far as the Borders of Buckinghamshire and Hertford|shire, the People are taken up with the Manufacture of Bone-lace, in which they are wonderfully in|creased and improved.

Also the Manufactures of Straw-work, especially Straw Hats, spreads itself from Hertfordshire into this County, and is greatly increased within a few Years past.

Having thus viewed this County in all its most considerable Towns, we came from Dunstable to St. Albans, where we saw the handsome Alms|houses built and endow'd by the Marlborough Fami|ly, and so returned to London.

Yours, &c.