A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.3]

LETTER III. CONTAINING A Description of Part of the West-riding of Yorkshire, and of all the North and East-ridings, the Bishoprick of Durham, and the County of Northum|berland.

SIR,

_ACcording to what I proposed in my last, I am now going to enter the West-riding of Yorkshire, from the East-side of Lancashire. I must pre|mise to you, that all this Part of the County is so considerable for its Trade, that the Post-master General has thought fit to esta|blish a Cross-post through all the Western Part of England into it, to maintain the Correspondence of Merchants and Men of Business, of which all this Side of the Island is full. This is a Confirmation of what I have so often repeated, of the Great|ness of the Trade carried on in this Part of the Island. This Cross-post begins at Plymouth, in the South-west Part of England, and leaving the great

Western Post-road of Excester behind, comes away North to Taunton, Bridgwater, and Bristol; from thence goes on thro' all the great Cities and Towns up the Severn, such as Gloucester, Worcester, Bridge|north, and Shrewsbury, thence by West Chester to Liverpool and Warrington, from whence it turns away East, and passes to Manchester, Bury, Rochdale, Halifax, Leeds, and York, and ends at Hull.

By this Means the Merchants at Hull have imme|diate Advice of their Ships which go out of the Chanel, and come in, by their Letters from Ply|mouth, as readily as the Merchants of London, and without the double Charge of Postage. The Shop|keepers and Manufacturers can correspond with their Dealers at Manchester, Liverpool, and Bristol, nay, even with Ireland directly, without the tedious In|terruption of sending their Letters about by London.

I followed this Post-road from Liverpool to Bury, both manufacturing Towns in Lancashire, and the last very considerable for a Sort of coarse Goods, called Half-thicks and Kersies. The Market for them is very great, tho' the Town is situated so remote, so out of the way, and at the very Foot of the Mountains, that it would otherwise be but little frequented.

Rochdale, farther on in our Way to Black-stone Edge, is a good Market-town, and is of late very much improved in the Woollen Manufacture, as are also the Villages in its Neighbourhood.

Here, for our great Encouragement, tho' it was but about the Middle of August, and in some Places the Harvest hardly got in, we saw the Mountains covered with Snow, and felt the Cold very acute and piercing; but we found, as in all those Northern Countries, the People had a happy Way of mixing the Warm and the Cold together; for the Store of good Ale, which flows plentifully in the most moun|tainous Part of this Country, seems abundantly to

make up for all the Inclemencies of the Season, or Difficulties of Travelling, adding also the Plenty of Coals for Firing, of which all those Hills are full.

We mounted the Hills, fortified with a little of this Precaution, early in the Morning; and tho' the Snow, which had fallen in the Night, lay a little upon the Ground, yet we thought it was not much; and the Morning being calm and clear, we had no Apprehension of an uneasy Passage, neither did the People at Rochdale, who kindly directed us the Way, and even offered to guide us over the first Mountains, apprehend any Difficulty for us; so we complimented ourselves out of their Assistance, which we afterwards very much wanted.

For tho' the Sun shone when we came out of the Town of Rochdale, yet when we began to mount the Hills about a Mile from it, we found the Wind rise, and the higher we went, the more it increased upon us; by which I soon perceived, that it had blown before, and perhaps all Night, upon the Hills, though it was calm below. And so we were obliged, in a most discouraging manner, to travel thro' track|less Drifts of Snow, and it continuing snowing too in our Faces, over Blackstone Edge, we knew not whether we were wrong or right, till we perceived some Land-marks, that the honest Rochdale Men had told us of, which gave us great Comfort.

But after we had passed this dismal Edge, it was our constant Labour, as soon as we were at the Top of a Hill, to come down it again on the other Side, and then another Hill arose. I do not re|member, that there was one Bottom, that had any considerable Breadth of plain Ground in it, but al|ways a Brook in the Valley running from those Gulls and Deeps between the Hills; and it was ob|servable, that they always cross'd our Way in the Bottoms from the Right-hand to the Left, the Rea|son of which you shall see presently.

From Blackstone Edge to Halifax is eight Miles, and all the Way, except from Sorby to Halifax, is thus up Hill and down; so that, I suppose, we mounted to the Clouds, and descended to the Water-level, about eight times, in that little Part of the Journey.

But now I must observe to you, that after we had passed the second Hill, and come down into the Valley again, and so still the nearer we came to Halifax, we found the Houses thicker, and the Vil|lages greater, in every Bottom; and not only so, but the Sides of the Hills, which were very steep every way, were spread with Houses; for the Land being divided into small Inclosures, from two Acres to six or seven each, seldom more, every three or four Pieces of Land had a House belonging to them.

In short, after we had mounted the third Hill, we found the Country one continued Village, tho' every way mountainous, hardly a House standing out of a Speaking-distance from another; and as the Day cleared up, we could see at every House a Tenter, and on almost every Tenter a Piece of Cloth, Kersie, or Shalloon, which are the three Articles of this Country's Labour.

In the Course of our Road among the Houses, we found at every one of them a little Rill or Gut|ter of running Water; if the House was above the Road, it came from it, and crossed the Way to run to another; if the House was below us, it crossed 〈◊〉〈◊〉 from some other distant House above it; and at every considerable House was a Manufactory, which not being able to be carried on without Water, these little Streams were so parted and guided by Gutters or Pipes, that not one of the Houses wanted its ne|cessary Appendage of a Rivulet.

Again, as the Dying-houses, Scouring-shops, and Places where they use this Water, emit it ting'd with the Drugs of the Dying-vat, and with the Oil, the

Soap, the Tallow, and other Ingredients used by the Clothiers in Dressing and Scouring, &c. the Lands thro' which it passes, which otherwise would be ex|ceeding barren, are enrich'd by it to a Degree beyond Imagination.

Then, as every Clothier must necessarily keep one Horse, at least, to fetch home his Wooll and his Provisions from the Market, to carry his Yarn to the Spinners, his Manufacture to the Fulling-mill, and, when finished, to the Market to be sold, and the like; so every one generally keeps a Cow or two for his Family. By this means, the small Pieces of inclosed Land about each House are oc|cupied; and by being thus fed, are still farther im|proved from the Dung of the Cattle. As for Corn, they scarce sow enough to feed their Cocks and Hens.

Such, it seems, has been the Bounty of Nature to this Country, that two Things essential to Life, and more particularly to the Business followed here, are found in it, and in such a Situation, as is not to be met with in any Part of England, if in the World beside: I mean, Coals and running Water on the Tops of the highest Hills. I doubt not but there are both Springs and Coals lower in these Hills; but were they to fetch them thence, 'tis probable the Pits would be too full of Water: 'tis easy, however, to fetch them from the upper Pits, the Horses going light up, and coming down loaden. This Place then seems to have been designed by Providence for the very Purposes to which it is now allotted, for carrying on a Manufacture, which can no-where be so easily supplied with the Conveniencies necessary for it. Nor is the Industry of the People wanting to second these Advantages. Tho' we met few People without Doors, yet within we saw the Houses full of lusty Fellows, some at the Dye-vat, some at the Loom, others dressing the Cloths; the

Women and Children carding, or spinning; all imployed from the youngest to the oldest, scarce any thing above four Years old, but its Hands were sufficient for its own Support. Not a Beggar to be seen, not an idle Person, except here and there in an Alms-house, built for those that are antient and past working. The People in general live long; they enjoy a good Air, and under such Circumstances hard Labour is naturally attended with the Blessing of Health, if not Riches.

From this Account, you'll easily imagine, that some of these remote Parts of the North are the most populous Places of Great Britain, London and its Neighbourhood excepted.

We have all this while been in the Parish of Hali|fax, and before I come to the Town, I must add a Word or two of the River Calder, to complete the Description of the Country I passed through. As I said before, that all the Rills of Water which we crossed, one at least in every Bottom, went away to the Left or North Side of us, as we went Eastward, I am to add, that following those little Brooks with our Eye, we could observe, that at some Distance to the Left there appeared a larger Valley than the rest, into which not only all the Brooks which we passed emptied themselves, but abundance more from the hollow deep Bottoms among the Hills on the North-side beyond it, which emptied this way South, as those on our Side run that way North. And at the next Village, called Sorby, or Sowerby, we passed a considerable River (form'd from those Brooks, and the melted Snows) over a stately Stone Bridge of several great Arches. And this was the main River Calder, which I mentioned at Wakefield, where it begins to be navigable, and which, without any Spring, may be called the Head of it.

The same Observation will hold on most of the great Rivers in the North; there being hardly any

that have their Beginning in any publick Springs or Lakes, as the Rivers in the South of England gene|rally have; which is the Case particularly of the Derwent and the Don from the High Peak, and the Hills of the same Range more South of the Edge; of the Aire, the Wherfe, the Swale, the Eure, the Nyd, the Tees, and the Were, all in the same County of York; and the Tyne, the Cockett, the Till, and the Tweed, farther North; and even the Forth, the Tay, the Clyde, the Nyd, in Scotland; and the Mersee, the Ribble, the Rocke, and the Lune, the West Calder, the Lowther, and the Eden, on the other Side of these Mountains, in Lancashire, West|morland, and Cumberland.

Having thus accounted for them all at once, I shall only mention them now as they come in my way; for you will observe, I crossed one or other of them at every considerable Town, all the Rivers as well in England as in Scotland, North of this Place, running from the middle of the Country where these Mountains rise, either East into the German, or West into the Irish Sea. None of them run like the Severn, or the Wye, or the Rivers in South Wales, or the Exe in Devon, or the Avon in Wilts, or the Arun in Sussex, and others North and South. But I return to my Journey.

Having passed the Calder at Sorby Bridge, I now came to the Town of Halifax, the most populous Parish or Vicarage in England; for it is but one, though 12 Miles in Diameter; but it has 12 or 13 Chapels of Ease, besides about 16 Meeting-houses, which they call also Chapels, being conformable in Fashion to them, having Bells and Burying-ground to most of them, not reckoning those of the Qua|kers into the Number.

In the Year 1443, there were but 30 Houses in it; but in the next Century it was much increased: for History tells us, that Queen Elizabeth being

petition'd by the Inhabitants of Halifax, to grant them some Privileges, they set forth, as an Instance of their Loyalty, that no less than 12000 young Men went out armed from this one Parish, and, at her Majesty's Call, joined her Troops to fight the Popish Army, then in Rebellion under the Earl of Westmorland.

If they then were so populous, what must they be now their Trade is so vastly inlarged by the great Demand of Kerseys for cloathing the Armies abroad? Some maintain, that it is increased a fourth at least within these 50 Years; from their having entred upon a Manufacture of Shalloons, which were never made in these Parts before, at least, not in any Quantities; and 'tis computed, that 100,000 Pieces are work'd up in this Parish only; and yet they do not make much fewer Kerseys than they did before; for I was assured, that there was one Dealer in the Vicarage, who traded, by Commission, for 60000l. a Year in Kerseys only, to Holland and Hamburgh. And of late Years it is still more increased, by the People of a neighbouring Part driving away about 4000 Irish Manufacturers, who with about 2000 others accompanying them, settled there. As the Vicarage is thus far extended, and so populous, what must the Market be which supplies this vast Num|ber of Inhabitants? And yet these are all brought from other Parts of the Country. For as to Corn, they sow little, and they feed very few Oxen or Sheep; and as they are surrounded with large ma|nufacturing Towns on every Side, all of them im|ployed, like themselves, in the Clothing Trade, they must necessarily have their Provisions from other more distant Parts.

The Consequence then is plain; their Corn comes up in great Quantities out of Lincoln, and Notting|hamshire, and the East-riding; the Black Cattle from thence, and from Lancashire; Sheep and

Mutton from the adjacent Counties every way; Butter from the East and North-ridings; and Cheese out of Cheshire and Warwickshire.

The Markets in the Months of September and October are prodigiously thronged, that being the Time when the Clothiers buy up as many Oxen as will serve their Family for the whole Year, which they used to drive Home, kill, salt, and hang up in the Smoke to dry. This was heretofore their common Diet, but now they live more upon fresh Meats.

Thus one trading manufacturing Part of the Coun|try in a barren Soil, gives and receives Support from all the Countries round it.

There is nothing extraordinary in the Town itself; but the Multitude of People who resort to it on a Market-day, as well to sell their Manufactures, as to buy Provisions, is prodigious: in this respect no Places equal it in all the North Part of England, except Leeds and Wakefield.

The Church is old, but stately and venerable, and has in it many extraordinary Monuments, but most of them of great Antiquity. Here is a very good Hospital, and a Work-house of an antient Establish|ment; and there are several Charities of like Sort, in different Parts of the Parish.

Halifax gave Birth to John of Halifax, or de Sacro Bosco, the chief Mathematician of his Age, who was buried at the publick Expence of the University of Paris; and to the late Archbishop Tillotson, the Mo|del of true rational Preaching; tho' a new Sect, lately sprung up, called Methodists, with great Pre|tences to Meekness, and intolerable Conceit and Va|nity, at present seek publickly to depreciate the Memory and Works of that truly great Man.

The Course of Justice antiently made use of here to prevent the stealing of Cloth, is very remarkable. Modern Authors pretend to say it was for all Sorts

of Felons; but I am well assured, it was first erected purely, or at least principally, for such Thieves as were detected in stealing Cloth from the Tenters: and it seems very reasonable to think it was so, be|cause of the Conditions of the Trial. The following is a brief Account of it:

The Woollen Manufacture was erected here about the Year 1480, when King Henry VII. caused an Act to pass prohibiting the Exportation of unwrought Wooll, and to encourage foreign Manufacturers to settle in England; several of whom coming over, established different Manufactures of Cloths in dif|ferent Parts of the Kingdom, as that of Bays at Colchester. Says at Sudbury, Broad-cloth in Wilts, and other Counties; and the Trade of Kerseys and narrow Cloth at this Place, and other adjacent Towns. And as, at the Time when this Trade began, nothing was more frequent than for young Workmen to leave their Cloths out all Night upon Tenters, which gave an Opportunity for the idle Fellows to steal them, a severe Law was made against stealing Cloth, which gave the Power of Life and Death into the Hands of the Magistrates of Halifax. But this Law was extended to no other Crime; and the Con|ditions of it, as I have said, intimate as much: for the Power was not given to the Magistrates to give Sen|tence, unless in one of these three plain Cases:

• 1. Hand Napping, that is, when the Criminal was taken in the very Fact.
• 2. Back Bearing, that is, when the Cloth was found upon him.
• 3. Tongue Confessing, which needs no Explanation.

The Fact likewise was to be committed within the Liberties or Precincts of the Forest of Hard|wick; and the Value of the Goods stolen was to be above thirteen Pence Halfpeny.

When the Criminal was taken, he was brought before the Magistrates of the Town, and they judged,

sentenced, and executed the Offender, or cleared him, within so many Days; I think it was three Market Days. If the Offence was committed out of the Vicarage, but within the Bounds of the Forest, then there were Frith Bourgers also to judge of the Fact, who were to be summoned out of the Forest Holders, as they are called, who were to hold of that Frith, that is, of the Forest. If they acquitted him of the Fact, he was immediately discharged; if they condemned him, nobody could reprieve him but the Town. The Country People were, it seems, so terrified at the Severity of this Proceeding, that hence came that Proverbial Litany, which was used all over Yorkshire:

From Hell, Hull, and Halifax, Good Lord, deliver us.

Hull was included in this Petition, on account of their rigid Discipline to Beggars; for they whipt out the foreign Poor, and set their own to work.

The Manner of Execution was very remarkable, by an Ax drawn up by a Pulley, and fastened with a Pin to the Side of a Wooden Engine, which when pulled out, the Axe fell swiftly down, and did its Office.

The Engine is now gone, but the Basis on which it stood still remains, being a square Foundation of Stone, to which you go up by Steps. The Engine was removed, as we were told, in the Year 1620, during the Reign of K. James I.

In the Reign of the same Prince, the Earl of Morton, Regent of Scotland, passing thro' Halifax, and seeing one of these Executions, caused a Model to be taken, and carried into his own Country, where it is made use of at this Day. But his Lord|ship's own Head was the first that was cut off with it; and it being many Years before that happened, the

Engine got the Name of the Maiden, before it was handselled by the Execution of the Earl; and this it retains, tho' it has cut off many a Head since.

The Ways to Halifax used to be exceedingly bad, and, except at the West Entrance, almost inaccessible; but of late Years they have been much mended; and several Acts of Parliament have passed very lately, which will greatly increase the Conveniences of the People thereabouts, as well as improve its Commerce and Communication all around it, to Lancaster, as well as to Leeds, Doncaster, and all the great trading Towns, even to the City of York itself.

Due East from Halifax, is Kirkley, a small Vil|lage, situated on the Calder, near which is the Mo|nument of the famous Robin Hood; and upon the Moor, his Butts, Two little Hills, so called, about a Quarter of a Mile asunder. I have now traced this Hero from the Forest of Shirwood, the Scene of his Exploits, to his Grave. I before doubted whe|ther there ever was such an one; but Epitaphs, as great Liars as they are, I suppose, are Evidence that such a Man once existed. His is as follows:

Here undernead dislaid Stean Lais Robert Earl of Huntingtun. Nea areir ver az hie sa geud, An Pipl kauld im Robin Heud: Lick Utlawz hi an is Men Vil England niver see agen.

Near this Place is a little Town, called Burstall, where they make Broad Cloth, so called in Distinction from Kerseys and Druggets, and the like, tho' the Cloths in this Country are called Narrow, when they are spoken of in London, and compared with the Broad Cloths made in Wilts, Gloucester, Somerset, and Devonshire.

This Town is famed for Dying, and there are made here a sort of Cloth in Imitation of Gloucester Whites,

which, tho' they may not be so fine, yet their Co|lours are as good.

From hence to Leeds, and every way round, the Country appears exceedingly busy and diligent. The Houses are not scatter'd and dispersed, as in the Parish of Halifax, but crouded up in large Villages, and thronged with People.

A few Miles South-west of Halifax is Huthersfield, upon the Calder, which is the first noted Town it comes to. This Town is one of the Five, where that vast Clothing-trade, which I have already men|tioned, is carried on. They have a Market here for Kerseys every Tuesday.

While I am speaking of their Manufactures, I must not forget that very essential one, called York|shire Ale, which indeed is in its Perfection in all this Part of the County. But I cannot pass over Hu|thersfield without taking notice of its old Neighbour, Almondbury, a famous Town in the Time of the Romans, and called Campodunum; but 'tis now a Village only. Mr. Camden calls it a Royal Town; and says, it had a Cathedral Church in it, dedicated to St. Alban, from whom it was called Albanbury, whence its present Name. The Ruins of a Stone Castle and Rampire are still to be seen near it.

The River Calder having been made navigable to Wakefield, and great Benefit arising from it, it is now [Ann. 1741.] about to be made further navigable, to the Towns of Ealand and Halifax; which will be of inexpressible Service to those populous and improving Places, and all the Villages and Towns adjacent. And as there have just passed new Acts to mend the Road from Selby to Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, and from Ealand to Leeds, which have been torn in Pieces by the heavy Carriages passing to and fro in the carrying on the vast extended Trade of those Parts; 'tis hardly to be conceived what Benefit will accrue from these publick Works.

The first Town we came to from Halifax, was Bradford. It has a Market; but is of no other Note than having given Birth to Dr. Sharp, the good Arch|bishop of York.

We soon enter'd Craven, which is a very hilly and craggy Country, as the Name signifies; for Craven comes from the British Word Craig, a Rock. But, however unpleasant,

We proceeded farther North-west, and arrived at Skipton, a good well-built Town, encompassed with Hills on every Side. The Market is well frequented and supplied. Here is a large handsome Church, and a good Grammar School; to which one Mr. Petyt, who had been principal of Bernard's-Inn, London, gave a considerable Parcel of Books, and like|wise erected a good Library in the Church. We were agreeably surprised to find so handsome a Town, and such good Accommodations in so mountainous a Country.

This is a healthy Country however, and the In|habitants live to a great Age: a Father and Son giving Evidence at the Assizes at York, it appeared the first was 140, and the Son 100 Years old.

Here the Road turns almost due West, which brought us to a Town called Settle, a much better Town than we expected in such a Country. It lies on the Road to Lancaster, at the Foot of the Moun|tains which part that County from Yorkshire, upon the River Ribble.

And a little lower, upon the same River, upon the Borders of Lancashire, stands Gisborne, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Looking forwards, to the North-west of us, we saw nothing but high Mountains, which had a terrible Aspect, and more frightful than any in Monmouth|shire or Derbyshire, especially Pingent Hill, which Camden derives from the British Word Pengwin, i. e. White-head, from the Snow lying upon it: so

that having no manner of Inclination to encounter them, merely for the sake of seeing only a few Vil|lages, and a Parcel of wild People, we turned short North-east, and came to the great Road leading Northward to Richmond, at a Village called Brum|stal, noted for the Birth of Sir William Craven, an Alderman of London, who was a great Founder and Builder of Churches, Bridges, Causways, and other publick Edifices in this Country.

Having passed thro' some other inconsiderable Vil|lages, we enter'd Midlam, a little Market-town on the River Youre, and the North-riding of Yorkshire together, and so leaving Masham, another inconsi|derable Market-town, which lay upon the same River, to the South-east of us, we passed along to Bedal, which is likewise of no great Note, saving that the Living is worth 500l. a Year, and that we met here again the Roman Causway, which leads up through Richmond to Barnards Castle, in the Bishop|rick of Durham, and is called Leeming-lane for 20 Miles together. We put ourselves upon this Way, and were not long before we arrived at Richmond.

Tho' I met with nothing else within the Town of Bedal worth observing, yet the Country round it, as indeed the whole County, is more or less full of Jockies, and Dealers in Horses; and the Breed in this, and the next County, is so well known, that tho' the Pedigree of them is not preserved for a Suc|cession of Ages, as 'tis said they do in Arabia, yet are their Stallions denominated by certain Names, that never fail to advance the Price of a Horse accord|ing to the Reputation of the Sire he comes of.

And indeed, let Foreigners boast what they will of Barbs and Turkish Horses, or of the Spanish Jennets from Cordoua, for which 500l. apiece have been given, I believe that some of the Gallopers of this County, and of the Bishoprick of Durham, which joins to it, will out-do, for Speed and Strength, the swiftest Horse

that was ever bred in Turkey or Barbary, take both Advantages together. For tho' the Barb may beat Yorkshire for a Mile Course, Yorkshire shall distance him at the End of the Four Miles; the Barb shall carry the Day with Seven and a half, but Yorkshire with 12 and 14 Stone. In a word, Yorkshire shall carry the Man, and the Barb a Feather. But they are universally allowed to be the best Hunting and Road Horses in the World; and are bought up by Foreigners on that Account.

As this Part of the Country is so much imployed in Horses, the young Fellows are bred up in the Sta|ble, and make excellent Grooms.

Besides their Fame for Horses, they have the Re|putation also of being good Grafiers over this whole Country, and produce a large, noble Breed of Oxen, as may be seen at North Allerton Fairs, where in|credible Numbers of them are bought Eight times every Year, and brought Southward as far as the Fens in Lincolnshire, and the Isle of Ely, where they are fed up to the Grossness of Fat we see in London Markets. The Market these North Country Cattle are generally brought to, is at St. Ives, a Town be|tween Huntingdon and Cambridge, upon the River Ouse.

Richmond is so called from its Situation upon a Hill or Mount, fruitful, tho' the Country about it is rocky and barren; and it gives the Name of Richmondshire to the District it is in, as another, East of this, is called Allertonshire: the former is in the Diocese of Chester, and the latter in that of Durham.

This Town, in the Time of Richard II. was annexed to the Duchy of Lancaster, and so still con|tinues. Earl Edwin built a Castle here, the Tower o•• which is still standing; as is also the Steeple of the old Priory. It is a Borough governed by a Mayor, &c. and holds Pleas in all kinds of Action; has a good Market-place, and Three Gates, which lead to

Three different Suburbs. It is well built all of Stone, and some Houses of Free-stone.

We were told, That in the Year 1732, Mr. Whar|ton of Newcastle, Agent to his Grace the Duke of Richmond, by ordering several Places here to be dug very deep, discovered the Draw-bridge and Moat be|longing to Richmond Castle, which were of very curious Workmanship.

Here thrives a kind of Manufactory of knit Yarn Stockens for Servants, and ordinary People. Every Family is imployed that way, both great and small; and here you may buy the smallest sized Stockens for Children for 1s. 6d. the Dozen Pair, sometimes less.

This Trade extends itself also into Westmorland, or rather from Westmorland hither: for at Kendal, Kirkby-Stephen, and such other Places in this County as border upon Yorkshire, the chief Manufacture of Yarn Stockens is carried on, which is indeed a very considerable one, and of late greatly increased.

We made some Excursions from this Town into the Country round it, and followed the River Swal•• West, which runs under the Wall of the Castle of Richmond, and, by reason of Rocks, which intercept its Passage, forms here a natural Cataract. This River, tho' not extraordinary large, is noted for giving Name to the Lands which it runs through for some Length, called Swale Dale, and to an antient Family of that Name; the last of whom was Sir Solomon Swale, Bart. who wrote himself of Swale Hall, in Swale Dale, by the River Swale. This Gentleman became unfortunate, and was supplanted by a Person not long since dead, who was a Clerk in the Exchequer Office; and observing this Family held their Estate of the Crown, and that they had omitted to renew for many Years, procured a Grant from the Crown, of this Estate for himself. A great many Law-suits ensued; but to no other Effect

than to increase the Misfortunes of this Gentleman, who died a Prisoner in the Fleet, but, I think, not till his Adversary had first made away with himself.

Swale Dale is a low, pleasant, and rich Valley, abounding with Grass, but very bare of Wood; tho' here is a Place just by, called Swale Dale Forest: it might have been so antiently, but there are hardly Trees enough in it now to denominate it a Forest.

Not ••ar from this Forest lies Wensdale, a very rich and fruitful Valley, well covered with delicate green Grass, and stocked with vast Herds of Cattle; and, in some Places, produces Lead Ore. The Eure runs thro' the Midst of it, and rises in th•• Western Mountains, very near the S••••rce of the Swale, which, as it were, leaps into it from a Precipice at Myton. Both these Rivers are plentifully stocked with Fish, and Eure has Cra••••••sh in it.

But let me stop in this ••••••ce, to take Notice of one of the greatest Ra••…••…es that England ever pro|duced; I mean Henry Jenkins, whose remarkable great Age deserves our particular Notice: He was born in the Year 1500, and died in 1670, being then 169 Years of Age. There are no Registers of so long a Date, and therefore his Age must be guessed at by other Circumstances, either from his own Account, or the probable Evidences of others. Which are these:

First, Being demanded by a Gentlewoman, who was curious to know, as exactly as possible how old he was, What Kings he remembred; he answered, after a little Pause,

"That he thought himself about 162 or 163 Years old; and that he could remem|ber Plowden (meaning Floddon) Field, fought against the Scots, in King Henry VIII.'s Reign."

She then ask'd him:

"Was the King himself there?"

He replied,

"No; he was in France, and the Earl of Surrey was General."

She asked him then,

"How old he was then?"

He said,

"About 12 Years old."

That Battle was fought September 9. 1513; King Henry being then at Tournay.

Secondly, There were Four or Five of the same Parish, at that time, of an 100 Years old or very near it, who all declared, That they never knew him any other than an elderly Man; and that he told them he was Butler to the Lord Coniers. The last of that Name died without Issue 3 & 4 Philip and Mary I. An. Dom. 1557. And he remembred the Ab|bot of Fountains, before the Dissolution in King Henry VIII.'s Time.

Thirdly, He went often to the Assizes on Foot; and was used as a Witness in other Courts, whose Records speak largely of his Age. In the Chancery he was sworn, to the Remembrance of above 140 Years; and as much, often, at York Assizes. In the King's Remembrancer's Office in the Exchequer, a Record saith,

"That Henry Jenkins, Labourer, aged 157 Years, deposed, as a Witness, in 1665; and, to confirm his Age, divers antient Men, who were Witnesses, swore that he was a very old Man when they first knew him."

He was, for the last Century of his Life, a Fisher|man, and used to wade and swim in the Rivers even after he was an hundred Years old, and lived upon very coarse Diet. In some of his last Years, being unable to work at his Trade, he went a begging to Gentlemens Houses, who used to relieve him chear|fully, as a great Curiosity. And his great Age was the more to be credited, because he could neither write nor read: and so, what he reported, was from Strength of Memory Two Years before his Death, he was able to bind Sheaves after the Reapers, and had his Sight and Hearing to the last.

The next Excursion we made was up to the Banks of the Tees, thro' Gilling, Eggleston, and Bowes, now ordinary Towns, or rather Villages; tho' the

first had, formerly, a great Castle; which, in the Conqueror's Time, and long afterwards, was the Seat of the Lords of that Country; whereas Rich|mond, which has since rose out of the Ruins of Gil|ling, was but a Fort, and in Subordination to it.

Eggleston is famous for Marble, which they dig out of the Rocks there, and imploys a great many Hands.

Bowes stands upon the Military Roman Way, and has been therefore, undoubtedly, a Place of great Note.

In this Part of Richmondshire, and up Northward, are no less than Three Forests, viz. Applegarth Forest, New Forest, and Lune Forest; and all these within a Tract of Ground of no great Extent. Not far off is, besides, the Forest of Swale Dale, before-mentioned.

The Tees is famous for Salmon, and is a rapid River, and sometimes swells up so suddenly, that a Man, in passing the Ford, in the Road to Darlington, on Foot, whilst the Water was low, and hardly up to his Knees, was overtaken, as he was going over, by a sudden Swell of the Stream, and carried off and drown'd. The People this way talk much of an antient City they had formerly here|about. The Antiquaries agree, there was one called by the Romans, Cataractonium, but differ as to its Situation; but, I think, Mr. Salmon has placed it most probably upon the Confluences of the Tees and Greta, at a Place called Merton; where indeed the Remains of it are very visible; and also about Greta|bridge, which is just by it.

We crossed the River, and entered Bernard's-castle, which lies on the North Side of it, and con|sequently within the Bishoprick of Durham. It was built by the Grandfather of Baliol, King of Scot|land, and is an antient well-built Town, but not large. Here they have an excellent Art of dressing

their Hides into Leather, out of which they make the best Bridles, Reins, and Belts; as at Rippon they were wont to furnish you with the best Spurs and Stirrups.

The Manufacture for Stockens continues thus far, and flourishes here and at Marwood, and other little Villages on the Borders of Durham; but the Jockey-trade extends much farther.

Between this Part of the Bishoprick where this Town stands, on the East, and Lancaster on the West, a mountainous Tract of Yorkshire runs, like a Promontory, up Northward a great way, Hill upon upon Hill, Cliffs, Rocks, and terrible Precipices, most astonishing to behold. This rugged Part of the Country is called Stanmore Hills, which are desolate and solitary, excepting one Inn, for the Entertain|ment of such as may be hardy enough to go among them. As for us, we did not think it worth our while. But here are, it seems, abundance of the Frolicks of Nature in Stone, which exactly resemble Serpents, and other various Forms.

The West Side of the Bishoprick being very mountainous too, and corresponding with that of Stanmore, we turned North-east, to visit a little Market-town, but a little way off, called Stainthorp; but being of no other Note than having a stately Tomb in the Church to the Memory of one of the Nevils, and his two Wives, we passed on to Raby Castle, which stands just by it, the antient Seat of that Family; but now of the Lord Vane. But it has nothing remarkable in it.

We came next to Piers-bridge, to which the Roman Causway leads, or, as they call it, Leeming-lane. Here have been many remarkable Remains of Antiquity dug up, and particularly an old Altar|piece. We thought to have returned by this Bridge into Yorkshire; but were desirous to take in Darling|ton first, and pass over the Tees there.

Darlington is remarkable for its dirty Situation; for a beautiful Church, with a high Spire rising up from the Midst of it; and for a good long Stone Bridge, over very little or no Water. It is a large con|siderable Market-town of great Resort, and well supplied. The Market-place is large and convenient. It is noted for the Linen Manufacture, as the Water of the Skern, on which it is situated, is exceeding good for Bleeching, insomuch that Linen has been sent hither from Scotland, to bleech; but it particu|larly excels in Huggabags of Ten Quarters wide, which are made no-where else in England; and of which, as well as other Linen-cloth, it sends up large Quantities to London.

A greater Rarity, I may mention in this Town, was our Landlord, at the Fleece Inn, by Name Henry Lovell, who died in May 1739, in the 93d Year of his Age, and had kept this Inn ever since 1688. He was never known to have one Hour's Sickness, nor even the Head-ach, tho' a free Toper of Ale, some|times for Days and Nights successively, but had an Aversion to Drams of all kinds, retained his Hear|ing, Sight and Memory, to his last Moments. He never made use of Spectacles, nor ever lost a Tooth. He was esteemed in his Life, and lamented at his Death, being of a humane Temper, and had the De|portment of a Gentleman.

At Oxehall, near this Town, we saw the famous Hell Kettles; which are Three deep Pits full of Water; which have occasioned many fabulous Stories among the Country-people, and divers Conjectures among the Learned; but they seem to be nothing else but old Coal pits (and yet there is no Coal near them now) filled by the Water of the Tees, thro' some subterraneous Passage, as 'tis said, Bishop Tun|stal experienced, by marking a Goose, and putting her into one of the Pits; which he found next Day in the Tees. Others say, they were occasioned by an

Earthquake, which is recorded in the Chronicle of Tinmouth for the Year 1179, when the Earthquake happened.

We passed on East, and came to Yarum Bridge, where we re-crossed the Tees. It is a very good and well-built Bridge. The Town is incorporated, and but small, lying near the Influx of the little River Levan into the Tees. It has seen much better Days; but, however, of late Years, it is a little recovered, and carries a pretty Trade, by Water, for Lead, Corn, and Butter, with London.

Stokesby is also but a small Market-town, and stands near the Source of the same River, a few Miles East of Yarum, inland; which lies in a little Tract of rich and fruitful Ground, called Allertonshire, and water'd by the River Wysk. It is a corporate Town, consisting of one Street, about half a Mile long, well-built, with a very good Market; and is noted for having the greatest Beast-fair in England.

Here was a bloody Battle fought, in King Stephen's Time, between David King of Scotland and Arch|bishop Tunstall, who was Lieutenant in these Parts for King Stephen, which was called the Battle of the Standard; which, it seems, never used to be erected but when the Kingdom was in imminent danger. The Bishop prevailed, and routed the Scots, tho' Henry, King David's Son, kept the Field of Battle with a Band of hardy Soldiers, after the Bulk of the Army was fled, with their King after them; and fought valiantly, till he was overpower'd, and oblig'd to follow his Father.

From hence we advanced still South, and passed thro' Thirsk, a corporate Town, which has but an ordinary Market, to Aldborough and Borough-brigg, which lie within Three Miles of Rippon upon the River Eure.

These are Two Borough Towns, each sending Two Members to Parliament, which is a Circum|stance

peculiar to this Place, and to Weymouth and Melcomb in Dorsetshire.

Borough-brigg, or Bridge, seems to be the modern Town risen up out of Aldborough, the very Names importing as much, the one being Borough at the Bridge, and the other Old Borough, that was before it. All the Antiquaries are agreed in this, who place on the Side of Aldborough, or Old Borough, an antient City, and Roman Colony, called Isurium Brigantium. At present there are not so much as the Ruins of a City to be seen above Ground. But the Coins, Urns, Vaults, Pavements, and the like, frequently dug up there, give Evidence to the Thing; and some of them are so very remarkable, that I cannot chuse to refer you to Mr. Camden, and his Conti|nuator, for farther Satisfaction: only adding to what they have observed, that a curious Piece of Antiquity was discover'd a few Years ago; which is a Mosaick Pavement of singular Form and Beauty, brought to light on digging the Foundation of a House, and which is now about Two Feet from the Level of the Street.

At the Door of the College is another tesselated Pavement of a different Form from the other, and tho' not above Three Yards from it, it is a Foot nearer the Surface of the Street. The former is composed of white and black Squares, with a Border of red; but the Stones of this are lesser Squares, and are white, yellow, red, and blue.

Not long since more Pavements of this kind were discover'd on an Eminence called Borough-hill; as also the Foundations of a considerable Building; two Bases of Pillars of some regular Order; large Stones of the grit Kind, with Joints for Cramping; sacri|ficing Vessels; Flews for Conveyance of Smoke, or warm Air; Bones and Horns of Beasts, mostly Stags; an Ivory Needle; and a Copper Roman Stylus: from all which it may reasonably be supposed,

that a Temple formerly stood in this Place. I had not so much Curiosity as to go to see the Three great pyramidal Stones in the Fields on the Left-hand, as you go thro' Borough-bridge, which the Country People, being unable to comprehend how they came there, will have to be brought by the Devil, and so call them The Devil's Arrows. Mr. Camden describes them, as also does Mr. Drake in his History of the Antiquities of York, to whom therefore I refer.

Borough-bridge, the latest built of the two Towns I have mentioned, is undoubtedly very old; for here, in the Barons Wars, was a Battle; and on this Bridge the great Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, was killed by a Soldier, who lay concealed under the Bridge, and wounded him, by thrusting a Spear or Pike, thro' a Chink, into his Body, as he was passing over it. From whence we may conclude, with Mr. Camden, that it was a Timber Bridge then, and not built of Stone, as it is now.

At Borough-brigg the Battle was fought between King Edward II. and his Barons, who were defeated, and after ensued the bloody Execution at Pontefract, of the Earl of Lancaster, and others of the Barons, as I mentioned when I spoke of Pontefract.

These Two Borough Towns lying near the Centre of this vast County, and on the Skirts of the North and West Ridings, and there being a great many Towns about the Middle of the first, that we could not more conveniently visit than from hence; we therefore struck away East, and North-east, through the Towns of Hovingham, Rydell, Hemesley, and Kirkby Moore Side; which is so called because it lies on the Side of Blackamoore. But they were far from answering our Trouble of going so far out of the Way, (excepting that Hemesley seemed to be tolerably well-built with Stone, and the Houses covered with Slate) the Two first having hardly a Market. But the Situation of Rydell is pleasant,

being in a fine fruitful Vale, wherein are 23 Parish-churches.

We then turned South-east, and came to Picke|ring, a pretty large well-built Town, which has a well-furnished Market, and belongs to the Duchy of Lancaster, having Jurisdiction over several neigh|bouring Villages, and is called, The Honour of Picke|ring. It has formerly been a fortified Place, as ap|pears by the Ruins of a Castle, which lie upon a Hill.

It is situate on the West Side of a wild hilly Country, and a Forest which is within the Liberty of the Town, and called Pickering Forest; which we did not care to traverse over, and so passed South-west down to Malton on the Derwent.

This Town is divided into Two Parts, by the River, which are called Old and New Malton. The Old is the Camalodunum of the Romans, and was burnt by Thurstan, Archbishop of York, in King Stephen's Cause, against Eustace, the Lord of it, who had betray'd Part of this Country into the Hands of the Scots; but Eustace, being afterwards received into Favour, rebuilt it, and it has been ever since called New Malton. Here has been a famous Abbey, and the Church of it is still standing, but very ruinous, tho' the Castle is quite demolished.

This Town is well-built and inhabited, and has Two well-supplied weekly Markets, which are held by Prescription; for it is not incorporated. It is the best Market in the County for Horses, Cat|tle, and Provisions; and is noted for Utensils in Husbandry. It has likewise Three handsome Parish Churches, and a good Stone Bridge over the Der|went. Near this Town is a Well, whose Water is said to have the same Virtue as that of Scar|borough.

We set out from hence, and for some Miles coasted along the Banks of Derwent towards York, taking

Hinderskell in our Way, where the late Earl of Carlisle built the magnificent Seat of Castle How|ard, upon the Spot of Ground where the old Castle stood, in the middle of a Wood; but his Lordship died before it was finish'd. I shall mention this again by-and-by.

But I must not omit, that on the South-side of the Derwent, we saw Auldby, a little Village, where, 'tis said, stood, in the Roman Times, a City called Derventis, where a Company named Derventienses was station'd.

The Derwent is a River very full of Water, and overflows its Banks, and all the neighbouring Mea|dows, always after Rain. It is likewise well-stock'd with Fish, and runs between the East and North Ridings.

We are now entering the great City of York, the Eboracum of the Romans, and of such Account in their Time, that no less than Three Military Ways pass'd thro' it; and it was not only a Roman Colony, but the Seat of some of the Emperors, and principal Generals, particularly of Severus and Constantius Chlorus, the Father of Constantine the Great.

In our Approach to it we discovered many visible Marks of Antiquity, not reducible to Description; and tho' Time and Misfortunes have so deeply effaced all Traces of its once glorious Splendor, yet some noble Remains of Majesty are still to be seen there, especially as we viewed it from a rising Hill at some small Distance on the London Road: nay, after we were within the Walls, and had Leisure to look about, we found ourselves not disappointed in the Idea we had before conceived of it; and every Traveller, who is inquisitive in the Search of Anti|quities or Curiosities, will be tempted to make some Stay at York; there being a very great Variety of each to detain and amuse him.

Among the former I shall only mention the Arch at Micklegate-bar, and the multangular Tower and Wall, near a Place called the Mint-yard, both built in the Time of the Romans. But whether the Two Statues now prostrate on the Wall of St. Lau|rence Church-yard, be Roman or Saxon, is hard to determine: certain it is, that the sepulchral Mo|nument of the Standard-bearer to the Ninth Legion of the Roman Army was dug up near Micklegate; and in other Parts of the City have been found many Roman Altars, Inscriptions, Urns, Coins and the like, now in the Possession of the Curious.

I do not include the Ruins of Abbeys, Churches and Castles, now to be seen in this Place, among the Antiquities of it, because they are but of a late Date, compared with the antient Remains, of the Roman Skill and Grandeur, and because they would take up more Time and Room than the Nature of my Work will allow.

The City of York is surrounded by a strong Wall, kept in good Repair, in which are four Gates, and five Posterns. It is a County of itself, extending ever all the Wapontake, called Ainsty, and is governed by a Mayor, who is styled Lord, as at London, a Recorder, 12 Aldermen, in Commission of the Peace, two Sheriffs, 24 Prime Common-council Men, eight Chamberlains, 72 Common-council Men, a Town-clerk, Sword-bearer, and Common Sergeant; and the Mayor and Aldermen have Conservation of the Rivers Ouze, Humber, Wherse, Derwent, Air, and Dun, within certain Limits of each.

This City always gives Title to the second Prince of the Blood Royal, and the two Citizens they re|turn to Parliament, have a Privilege of taking their Places in the House of Commons, next the Citizens of London, upon what is called the Privy Counsellor's Bench; a Privilege which, if neglected to be claimed, ought to be made known, as it appertains to the

Citizens of London and York only, and is by those of London, exercised the first Day of the Meeting of every new Parliament.

The Situation of York is in a Plain on both Sides the River Ouse. It was formerly very populous, and had a great Trade; but has declined since the Re|formation, and the Difuse of the Court of President of the North. In Henry the Vth's Time there were 41 Parishes, 17 Chapels, 16 Hospitals, and nine Abbeys, besides the Cathedral, and now there are only 17 Churches in Use.

The present Support of the City is chiefly owing to the Gentry, who make it their Winter Residence, as there is great Plenty of Provisions of all kinds to furnish an elegant Table at a moderate Expence, so that the Altar, which was found there, with a Ro|man Inscription, is applicable to the present Circum|stances of the Place, DIS DEABUSQUE HOSPITA|LIBUS. And as the Inhabitants abound with the Conveniencies of Life, they likewise partake of its Diversions, there being Plays, Assemblies, Musick-Meetings, or some Entertainments, every Night in the Week.

The publick Edifices which most deserve Mention, I shall now take Notice of, and first of the Bridge over the Ouse. It consists of five Arches: the Dia|meter of the middle Arch, which was the largest in the Kingdom, before that at Blenheim House was built, is 81 Feet, and its Height 51 Feet. The Reason it was built so wide, was on occasion of an Accident which once happen'd to it, when upon a sudden Thaw, which occasion'd a great Flood, a prodigious Weight of Ice drove down two Arches of the old Bridge, by which 12 Houses were demo|lished, and several Persons drown'd.

The great Council-chamber for this City, near which the Records are kept, as also the Exchequer and Courts of the Sheriffs, and beneath them the

two City Prisons for Debtors and Felons, are all upon this Bridge.

The Castle which stands at the Confluence of the Ouse, and the Foss, was built by William the Con|queror, Anno 1069; and tho' the Face it now wears, and the Use made of it, are so different from that which was the primitive State of this Fortress, yet in its present Disguise, it brought to my Memory that Tragical Scene of Bloodshed perpetrated within its Walls, upon the 11th of March 1189; which being to be met with in very few Historians, I shall give a brief Account of it.

The Jews, from their first Introduction into Eng|land, growing immensly rich by Traffick, never failed to become the Objects of Envy and Hatred, both to Prince and People, and the slightest Pre|tences were always eagerly laid hold of, to plunder them; so that on every new Accession or Turn of Affairs, they were forced to compound for their Safety, by large Presents to the Prince.

At the Accession of Richard I. tho' that Prince gave them no Disturbance, yet he issued out an Order, that no Jew should be present at the Cere|mony of his Coronation, either at Church or at Dinner.

However the chief of the Jews, from all Parts, being summoned to London by their Brethren there, in order to agree upon a rich Gift to the new King to obtain his Favour and Protection, many of them, notwithstanding the Injunction, had the Curiosity to see the Ceremony; and being discovered among the Croud by the Guards, they were beat, abused, and some of them killed.

The People hereupon, being possessed with a No|tion, that the King had given Orders, that the Jews 〈◊〉〈◊〉 be destroyed, began a Massacre of them in 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and plundered and burnt their Houses, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 them many of their Wives and Children.

And tho' the King immediately ordered a Procla|mation to stop these Proceedings, yet the Example at London was followed at Norwich, Lynn, and Stam|ford, and with still greater Fury at York, notwith|standing the King, at his Departure to the Holy Land, left Orders for the Protection of the Jews, and the Punishment of such as should molest them; for, being inflamed by a wicked Priest, certain bloody Wretches, who had resolved upon the Destruction of the Jews, and to inrich themselves with their Pillage, set Fire to a Part of the City of York; and while the Citi|zens were busy in extinguishing the Flames, broke into the House of a principal Jew, who had been murder'd at London, and whose Wife had strength|ened it for her Defence; and murdering the whole Family, and all who had taken Refuge there, burnt the House to the Ground.

The Jews hereupon, in the utmost Terror, got Leave to convey all their Wealth into the Castle, and obtain'd Shelter there for their own Persons, and for their Wives and Children, except some few, who were sacrific'd to the Rage of the Populace; who burnt all the Houses of the Jews throughout the City.

It unluckily happen'd, that the Governor of the Castle having Business in the Town, the poor Jews, being afraid he went out to agree upon delivering them up to their Enemies, refused him Admittance into it; which incensing him, he apply'd to the High Sheriff, who raising the Posse Comitatus, besieged the Castle, and reduced the Jews to so great Ex|tremity, that being refused Mercy, tho' they offer'd to buy it at the Expence of immense Sums, they took the dreadful Advice of one of their Rabbi's, come lately among them from abroad; and first having burnt all their rich Goods, and so damnify'd even their Plate, that their barbarous Enemies could not be much the better for their Spoils, they set Fire to all the Towers of the Castle, and fell each Man to

cutting of the Throats of his own Family, till they had destroy'd all who came into this dreadful Scheme of their Rabbi's, who, in the last Place, followed the Advice he had given.

In the mean time, the Fire of the Castle in|creasing, a Number of unhappy Jews, who would not come into this bloody Action, (in vain endea|vouring to extinguish it) from the Walls besought the Mercy of the Besiegers, acquainting them with what had happened; and threw over the dead Bodies of their Brethren, in Confirmation of the Truth of what they said; and offering to become Christians, had Hopes given them of their Lives: but no sooner did their merciless Enemies gain Admittance, than they butcher'd every one of the Jews, calling aloud for Baptism, in hopes of escaping their worse than Paganish Cruelty.

Not satisfy'd with this, the barbarous Robbers, as well as Murderers, ran next to the Cathedral, where were deposited the Bonds and other Securities of the Money owing to the Jews by the Christians, broke open the Chests, and destroyed them all.

There were 500 Men who took Shelter in the Castle, besides Women and Children. So that the whole Number of the Jews thus miserably slaughter'd, must be between 1000 and 1500, besides those who were massacred in the City.

We must do this Justice to the King, who was then in the Holy Land, that as soon as he heard of this unparalleled Proceeding, he was highly incensed, and sent Orders to the Bishop of Ely, his Chancel|lor and Regent, to go down in Person to York, and execute strict Justice, without Favour or Affection, on all Offenders. The Bishop came to the City, but the chief Authors of the Riot had fled to Scot|land. However, the Citizens were laid under a large Fine, and the Sheriff and Governor of the Castle were removed from their Places, and com|mitted

to Prison; and the Soldiers concerned in the Fray were punished, and turned out of Service; but not one Man, either then or afterwards, was executed for the unheard-of Villainy.

The Strength of this Castle has been often ex|perienced in Times of War, and become famous in History, upon Account of several memorable Events. We hope for the future there will never be occasion to make any other Use of it than to the same necessary Purpose, to which it is now converted, namely, a Prison; but a Prison the most stately and complete of any in the whole Kingdom, if not in Europe. The present Edifice was erected in the Year 1701. In the left Wing of the Building is a handsome Chapel, neatly adorned with suitable Fur|niture, and an Allowance of 40l. a Year is settled upon a Minister, for performing Divine Service, and Preaching to the Prisoners weekly; and such of the Debtors as attend at Sermons, are allowed each a large Loaf of fine Bread. The Justices of the Peace take great Care, that the Gaol shall be kept as neat within-side, as it is noble without. The Felons are allowed Straw, and their Beds are now raised from the Ground: and there is an Infirmary apart from the common Prison, to which the Sick are con|veyed, and a Surgeon has an appointed Salary to attend them.

The Castle-yard is larger than the Areas of the Fleet or King's-Bench in London, and the Situation is so high, pleasant, and airy, that 'tis surprising any Prisoners should remove themselves by Habeas Corpus, to either of those Prisons, unless it be with a View of purchasing the Liberty of the Rules, be|cause here they are never permitted to go without the Walls. Strangers, who visit the Inside of it, sel|dom depart without making a trifling Purchace of some of the small Manufactures the Prisoners work up for Subsistence.

The next Building we come to is the Assembly-room, for the Entertainment of the Nobility and Gentry, who reside at York during the Races. It was designed by the Earl of Burlington. That Part which is the Egyptian Hall, taken from a Draught of Pal|ladio, is in Length 123 Feet, 40 broad, and rather more in Height. This Hall communicates with the common Ball-room, in Length 66 Feet, in Height and Breadth 22 Feet, besides other Rooms for Cards and Tea: all richly decorated and illuminated with magnificent Lustres. The Front to the Street is an exceeding fine Piece of Architecture; but the Egyp|tian Hall, if you except the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, may undoubtedly claim the Preference of any other Room in the Kingdom, if not in Eu|rope. The Expence of this Edifice, amounting to several thousand Pounds, was defrayed by Subscrip|tions, chiefly among the Nobility and Gentry of the County, who contributed, some 50l. and none less than 25l.

In the Year 1728, a very handsome Mansion-house was erected for the Lord-Mayor; the Base|ment is a Rustick Arcade, which supports an Ionick Order, with a Pediment in it. There is a large Room the Length of the Front, 49 Feet by 29, so that this City has had the Honour to begin a Prece|dent for the City of London to copy after.

The Guild-Hall is a Building very well deserving Notice, as likewise are several other publick Edifices, which are equally useful and ornamental to this an|tient City.

But what exceeds all others in it, is the Cathedral Church, which for Magnificence of Structure chal|lenges the Pre-eminence of all other Gothick Churches, not only in this Kingdom, but throughout Europe, if I may rely upon the Opinion of a Gentleman, with whom I viewed it, and who had seen the Churches at Strasburgh, Milan, and Notre Dame in Paris.

The City of Lincoln indeed contends with this of York, for a Preference to its Cathedral; and as this is a Point in which both Cities are very tena|cious, I will distinguish the Particulars wherein each of them have the Advantage over the other, as I have promised in Page 6.

In the first Place then, Lincoln Cathedral has greatly the Advantage of York, in the Height of its Situation; and by different Accounts given by several Authors, of the Dimensions of both Churches, it appears Lincoln exceeds York in Length, from East to West, either 14, or 11, or three Feet and a half: in the middle Cross or Transept from North to South, five Feet; in the outward Breadth of the West End, by the Addition of two Chapels, as at St. Paul's, London, 53 Feet; in the Height of the West Towers and Spires 72 Feet; and of the mid|dle Tower, including the Pinacles, 75 Feet.

York exceeds Lincoln in the Breadth of its middle Nef, and Side Ayles, within-side, 26 Feet; in the Height of the middle Nef to its Canopy, 17 Feet; and in the inside Height of the middle Lantern, 64 Feet and a half.

The Breadth of the West End of Lincoln will not the least avail in this Dispute, as it has so many egregious Defects, not to say Absurdities. The two Steeples are crouded together, instead of being placed at the Extremities of the Front, which by that means would have had an Appearance much more grand. They rise up above the Body of the Church, as if behind a Screen, without the least Affinity to any Part of the Building below. Their Ornaments are but mean, and the Leaden Spires upon them still meaner. The whole Front, extending in a strait Line, wants Boldness when viewed at some Distance; and there is such an Expansion of solid Wall, without Windows, or any sort of Aperture, as gives a Hea|viness throughout. The cloistred Work, or Niches

for Images, which is the chief ornamental Part of Gothick Structures, is disposed with a shameful Dis|regard to every thing like Design: in one Place, crouded with needless Profusion; in another, wanted to fill up, where now there is nothing but a naked and dead Space; and in the Ornaments the Fancy is so irregularly varied, that all kind of Connexion and Harmony is destroyed, so that the Building to Ap|pearance has the same Effect, as if it were Pieces of different Structures patched up together.

The Plan of the Church is very irregular, the middle Transept from North to South having no Ayles on the West-side, to answer those on the East. The upper Transept, or double Cross, can never be considered as a beautiful Addition, especially since this, and the Eastern Parts beyond, are surrounded with Chapels and Vestries erected without Unifor|mity, and the Windows of the Church are meanly small, crouded, and out of Proportion.

'Tis to be observed, there is a great Resemblance between the Ground-plat of Lincoln, and that of Canterbury, and the one was certainly built after the Model of the other.

The only Defect objected to York, is, that the middle Tower or Lantern wants Height, and that the Cross or Transept, from North to South, is built in a different Style and Manner from the rest of the Cathedral. Both these must be admitted to be Faults; but, by the way, the middle Lantern is as lofty as the celebrated Towers of Canterbury and Gloucester, exclusive of their Pinacles, tho' not suf|ficiently high in proportion to its Breadth, being 70 Feet square, or to the Height of the Church. They have a Tradition in this City, that a Wooden Spire was once intended to have been raised upon this Tower; which in that Case would have ex|ceeded the Height of Salisbury Steeple, as the pre|sent Battlements are higher by six Feet, and of a

larger Square than the present Tower at Salis|bury.

I am not sorry this Project failed, because 'tis ob|vious all Wooden Spires have a most wretched Aspect.

The only Amendment that can be made, would be to pull down the Bell-turret at one Corner, and to raise the Battlements about 20 Feet, piercing them thro' with proper Ornaments; and carry four Pinacles above them, about 20 Feet more.

However, this Building has two remarkable Beau|ties not to be found in any other Gothick Edifice; which are, that the Height and Breadth of the Nef and Side Ayles of the Church, and of all the Arches and Windows come very near, if not agree with, the Dimensions laid down by the established Rules of Roman Architecture; that the Span of the Roof; from East to West, rises very near equal to the mo|dern Proportion; the excessive Height of the Roofs being the chief Blemishes in most Cathedrals, as may be seen at Lincoln, Salisbury, Westminster, and par|ticularly Winchester.

The Plan of the whole Church is uniform, as well as the Superstructure, especially from East to West: the Windows are of a Size and Distance proper to the Magnitude of the Structure, and are admirable for their Workmanship; neither is it crouded and encumbered on the Outside by its Butresses, but every Part is inrich'd with Ornaments, which receive an additional Beauty from the Colour of the Stone, as it retains almost its original Whiteness.

Thus far what I have said of this Building in general was necessary, in comparing it with Lin|coln. I will now take some Notice of its several Parts distinctly both within-side and without, begin|ning first at the Outside.

The West End, which is 124 Feet in Breadth, shews a Grandeur inexpressible; this Front contains

two uniform Towers, diminished by several Con|tractions, all cloistred for Imagery, and inrich'd with other Ornaments. In the South Tower hangs a deep Peal of 12 Bells, the Tenor weighing 59 hun|dred Weight.

Between these Towers, over the principal En|trance into the Church, is a large Window, whose Tracery in Masons Work is of a Figure so beau|tiful, that it cannot be equalled any-where. The several Windows in the Towers are large, and their Tracery and Ornaments well fansied.

The South Entrance is ascended by several Courses of Steps, and Tradition assures us, there was once as great an Ascent to the West Door. Here a re|markable Spiral Turret is erected on the middle of the Pediment, and called the Fiddlers Turret, from an Image of a Fidler on the Top. Over the Door is a Dial both Horary and Solar, on each Side of which two Images strike the Quarters on two Bells.

In viewing the Building from this Part Eastward, we easily discerned it to be much newer than that Westward, tho' conformable to it.

The East Front is exceeding noble, and has the finest Window in the World.

The North Side is the same as the South: only a Wall is built to prevent Night-walkers, and other disorderly Persons, from nesting and intriguing in the obscure Corners of the Buttresses.

The Lantern Steeple, of which I have spoken already, is ornamented in a fine Taste, wanting nothing but a better Finishing at the Top: it has eight Windows, two on each Side, to give Light within; these Windows from Top to Bottom are 45 Feet high.

We now entered the Inside, at the West Door, opening into the middle Nef of the Church, under the largest Gothick Arch in Europe, which binds and supports the two Towers. The Nef is the most

spacious of any in Europe, except St. Peter's at Rome; it exceeds the Dimensions of the Nef of St. Paul's Cathedral four Feet six Inches in Width, and 11 Feet in Height; and that of Westminster Abbey 16 Feet six Inches in Breadth, but its Height is two Feet less. This is an Instance of what I took No|tice of before, with regard to the Justness of the Proportion of York Cathedral, and at the same time shews the Extravagance of that of Westminster Abbey, in this Particular. The Canopy at Top is inriched with curious Knots of Carving.

From thence we proceeded under the Middle Lan|tern, to a Stone Screen, that parts the Choir from the Body of the Church, adorned with curious Work|manship, among which are placed the Statues of the British Kings, from the Conquest, to Henry VI.

Over the Entrance into the Choir stands the Organ, having a double Front; it had before been removed from thence by King Charles I. to one Side, opposite to the Bishop's Throne. The Reason his Majesty gave for doing it, was, That it spoil'd the Prospect of the fine East Windows from the Body of the Church.

The Choir is adorned with antient Wood-work carved, and set up with Clusters of knotted Pinacles of different Heights. The Ascent from the Body of the Church, thro' the Choir to the Altar, is by a Gradation of 16 Steps. The Altar has lately re|ceived a considerable Improvement as to its Situa|tion, and the whole Church in its Beauty, by taking away a large wooden Screen, which almost obstructed the View of the East Window. By this means it was carried one Arch farther back, to a Stone Screen of excellent Gothick Architecture; which now not only shews a Beauty in itself, before hid, but opens a View to one of the noblest Lights in the World, both for Masonry and Glazing; which is the afore|mentioned East Window.

This Window is 30 Feet Nine Inches broad, and 75 Feet high: the Upper-part is a Piece of fine Tracery, but, in my Opinion, not so beautiful as that at the West End. Below the Tracery are 117 Partitions, wherein are represented, in fine painted Glass, most of the History of the Bible. This Window was glazed in 1405, by one John Thornton, Glazier of Coventry; who received, for his own Work, 4s. a Week; and contracted to finish the Whole in Three Years.

In a circular Window, at the South End of the Church, is another fine Piece of Masonry, in the Form of a Wheel, called The Marygold Window, from its painted Glass, which resembles the Colour of that Flower. The North End has Five noble Lights: each constitute one large Window, and reach almost from Top to Bottom. There is a Tradition, that Five Maiden Sisters were at the Expence of these Lights. The Painting of the Glass represents a kind of Embroidery, or Mosaick Needle-work; which might perhaps give Occasion to the Story.

I ought not to omit mentioning, that all the Win|dows of the Church, except one or two, are adorned with painted Glass, representing the Sacred History, and the Portraitures of eminent Persons. This Paint|ing was preserved at the Time of the Civil Wars, by the Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament's Army, who, at the Request of the Gentry and Citizens of York, placed a Guard of Soldiers about the Church for that Purpose.

The Body of the Church has been lately new paved, the Plan of which was drawn by that ingenious Architect Mr. Kent, under the Direction of the Earl of Burlington: the Figure is Mosaick, and properly adapted to a Gothick Building.

The Monuments in this Church are numerous, many of them very antient, and several very magni|ficent;

but to enumerate them distinctly, would take up more Room than I can spare.

After taking this View of the Cathedral, we were conducted into the Chapter-house; a Building which, for a Gothick Piece, disdains to allow an Equal in the Universe, and well deserves the Encomium bestowed upon it, as is said, by a great Traveller, in an old Monkish Verse inscribed on the Wall, in Golden Letters, as follows:

Ut rosa phlos phlorum, sic est domus ista domorum.

'Tis an Octagon of 63 Feet Diameter. The Height to the Middle Knot of the Roof is 67 Feet ten Inches, unsupported by any Pillars, and intirely de|pendent upon one Pin geometrically placed in the Centre. The whole Roof has been richly painted, and the Knots of carved Work, gilt; but is now defaced and sullied by Time. Over the Roof is a Spire of Timber-work, covered with Lead, admired as a masterly Piece of Work in the Carpenter's Art. The Eight Squares of the Octagon have each a Win|dow beautifully adorned, and imbellished with painted Glass.

The next Place we saw was the Vestry-room; its Dimensions 44 Feet by 22: wherein are kept several Antiquities, particularly the famous Horn so called, made of an Elephant's Tooth; which is indeed the greatest Piece of Antiquity the Church can exhibit, and to which they ought to pay a high Veneration, on Account of the Benefit they reap, from the Act that it witnessed to. The Account Camden gives of it, is;

"That Ulphus the Son of Toraldus, who governed in the West Parts of Deira, by reason of a Difference likely to happen betwixt his eldest Son and his youngest, about his Lord|ship, when he was dead, presently took this Course: Without Delay he went to York, and taking the Horn, wherein he was wont to drink,

with him, he filled it with Wine; and kneeling before the Altar, bestowed upon God, and the blessed St. Peter, all his Lands."

The Lands are still called de Terra Ulphi. The Horn was imagined to have been quite lost; but Thomas Lord Fairfax was the Occasion of its be|ing preserved. Where it had lain, or where he got it, is uncertain; but stripp'd of its Golden Orna|ments, it was restored by his Successor. The Chapter thought fit to decorate it anew, and be|stowed the following Inscription, to the Memory of the Restorer, upon it:

CORNU HOC ULPHUS IN OCCIDENTALI PARTE
DEIRAE PRINCEPS, UNA CUM OMNIBUS TERRIS
ET REDDITIBUS SUIS, OLIM DONAVIT.
AMISSVM, VEL ABREPTVM,
HENRICUS DOM. FAIRFAX DEMVM RESTITVIT.
DEC. ET CAPIT. DE NOVO ORNAVIT,
A. D. M.DC.LXXV.

I will now conclude my Account of this noble Pile of Building, with the Character given of it (as Mr. Camden informs us) by Aeneas Sylvius, afterwards Pope Pius II.

"It is, says he, famous for its Mag|nificence and Workmanship, all the World over, but especially for a fine lightsome Chapel, with shining Walls, and small thin wasted Pillars quite round."

The South Side of the Church is inriched by a Library, to which Archbishop Matthews's Widow was a great Benefactress. A Bishop was her Father, and an Archbishop her Father-in-law; she had Four Bishops for her Brethren, and an Archbishop for her second Husband.

The Bishop had a Palace in the Minster-yard, where great Hospitality was wont to be kept; but it has been long since leased out. And to shew the

wondrous Change of Times, one End of it is now converted into a Dancing-school, and the other into a Play-house.

In the Archbishop's Register and Prerogative Office, is a noble Repository of antient Ecclesiastick Records, bearing Date 93 Years earlier than any at Lambeth or Canterbury.

The Church of All-Saints in the Pavement is a beautiful old Church, with a Gothick Steeple of ex|quisite Workmanship. Upon the Tower is a fine Lantern (with Pinacles of a considerable Height) not much unlike that of Boston in Lincolnshire.

St. Margaret's Church has one of the most extra|ordinary Porches I ever saw. It is a most sumptuous and elaborate Piece of Gothick Architecture, with our Saviour on the Cross on the Top of it: but what seems still more surprising is, that they say it did not originally belong to the Church, but was brought hither from the dissolved Hospital of St. Nicolas.

St. Mary's in Castle-gate is admired for a pyra|midical Steeple; as Christ's Church is for a very fine modern one.

In the Month of August 1738, a Subscription was set on Foot for an Infirmary in this City, like those begun at London, Winchester, &c. which we have mentioned. And this excellent Charity has found much Encouragement and Support here.

A Manufacture of Cotton is lately established in this City, and is arrived at a very great Perfection; and I could not but be greatly pleased, when I was there last, to see a very handsome Procession made on this Occasion, viz. on May-day 1740, at which Time Mr. Clough, the Master of the Manufactory, together with the several Artificers concern'd therein, marched thro' the City in the following manner, preceded by the City Musick; viz. There were Three Stages borne, each by Six Porters: On the first Stage were the Teazer, Carder, Rover, Spinner,

and Reeler of the Cotton-wool. On the second, the Bleecher and Winder of the Linen-yarn. On the third, the Quill-winder and Weaver. Each Person exercising their several Branches, from the picking of the Wool to the finishing the Cloth. The Men, Women and Children, imploy'd in the Manufactory, closed the Procession, all of them cloathed with Cot|tons, or striped and figured Fustians of their own making, provided for them by the generous Contri|butions of the Citizens.

This Manufactory being so well fix'd and establish'd in so short a time, is principally owing to the great Encouragement given by the City, who are determin'd to spare no Pains or Expences to support it. The Bells in the Cathedral, and in all the Parish Churches, rung the whole Time of the Procession.

The City of York stands upon more Ground, per|haps, than any in England, except London and Nor|wich; but then the Buildings are not so close as at Bristol or Durham, nor is it so populous as either Bristol or Norwich. But as York is full of Gentry, and Persons of Distinction, so they have Houses pro|portioned to their Quality, which makes the City lie so far extended on both Sides of the River.

While we were here, we took one Day's Time to see the fatal Field, called Marston Moor, where Prince Rupert, a third time, by his Excess of Va|lour, and Defect of Conduct, lost the Royal Army, and had a Victory wrung out of his Hands, after he had all the Advantage he could desire.

I made another Excursion to the Duke of Leeds's House at Kiveton, then to the Earl of Carlisle's called Castle Howard, and the Earl of Burlington's at Lanesborough in the East-riding.

Carlisle-house, or Castle Howard, is in the Middle of a Wood, which is as great a Wonder in its Kind▪ as Mr. Aislabie's Park. The House is of a vast Extent▪ and tho' it makes a fine Appearance at a Distance▪

yet will it not bear a critical Examination of the Architecture, when viewed near. There goes a Story, That the Architect was so sensible of his Errors in one of the Fronts, that he would fain have persuaded the late Earl of Carlisle to pull it down again. The Whole is not yet finished.

The Earl of Burlington's in an old-built House, most advantageously situated on a rising Ground, with a noble Prospect as well towards the Humber, as towards the Woulds.

I passed likewise thro' the Forest of Galtres, a little North of the City. It is in some Places very thick of Trees, and in others very moorish and boggy: it formerly extended to the very Gates of the City, but now 'tis much lessen'd; and several con|siderable Villages are built in it.

Having mentioned so many Forests, you'll un|doubtedly conclude, there is no want of Firing in this County. 'Tis very true; for here is not only Wood enough, but Coal too; which is a very great Com|fort to the Poor, against the Inclemency of this cold Northern Climate, which indeed has very great need of Firing.

At Hambleton-down are the Races, where the King's Plate of an hundred Guineas is run for once a Year, by Five-Year-Olds; a Gift no-where better be|stowed than on that County, which is so famous for breeding of Horses for the rest of the Kingdom.

From York we enter'd again into the West-riding, and, travelling due West, we came to Wetherby, upon the River Aire, which we omitted to take in our Course as we passed by this River in our former Journey, being then more out of our Way than here. It is a good Trading Town, but has nothing remarkable in it.

Some Miles farther to the South stands Tadcaster, upon the South Side of the River Wherfe, where the Road from Chester, and that from Cambridge to York,

meet; and is consequently well provided for the Reception of Travellers. It is principally noted for Lime-stones, and a fine Stone Bridge over the River. But it has nothing that we could see to testify the Antiquity it boasts of, but some old Roman Coins, which our Landlord the Post-master shewed us, among which was one of Domitian, of the same Kind, I believe, as that which Mr. Camden gives an Account of; but so very much defaced with Age, that we could read but DO, and AV, at a Distance. Here is the Hospital and School still remaining, founded by Dr. Oglethorp, Bishop of Carlisle, who, for want of a Protestant Archbishop, set the Crown on the Head of Queen Elizabeth; but she afterwards, not|withstanding that Circumstance, deprived him.

Here also we saw plainly the Roman Causway, which I have before-mentioned at Aberforth; and a stately Stone Bridge over the Wherfe.

Mr. Camden gives us a Distich of a learned Pas|senger upon this River, and the old Bridge at Tad|caster. I suppose he passed it in a dry Summer.

Nil, Tadcaster, habes Musis vel carmine dignum, Praeter magnifice structum fine fiumine pontem.

In English thus:

Nought, Tadcaster, can thee to Fame bequeath, But a proud Bridge—with ne'er a Stream beneath.

But I can assure you to the contrary of this; for tho', when I travelled this Way, it was about the Middle of June, I found the River pretty full.

On this Road we passed over Towton, that famous Field, where a most cruel and bloody Battle was fought between the Two Houses of Lancaster and York, in the Reign of Edward IV. I call it most cruel and bloody, because the Animosity of the Par+ties was so great, that tho' they were Countrymen and Neighbours, nay, as History says, Relations

(for here Fathers killed their Sons, and Sons their Fathers) for some time they fought with such Obsti|nacy and Rancour, that they gave no Quarter. 'Tis certain such Numbers were never slain in one Battle in England, since that fought between King Harold and William the Conqueror, at Battle in Sussex; for here fell in the Whole 36000 Men, and the Yorkists proved victorious.

Tradition guided us to the very Spot; but there remain no visible Marks of the Action. The Plough|men indeed say, that sometimes they turn up Arrow-heads, Spear-heads, broken Javelins, Helmets, and the like.

Farther South still, or rather South-east, on the Road to Doncaster, stands Shirbourn, a pretty good Town, famous for a well endow'd Hospital, erected by one Hungate a Protestant, for the Maintenance at Bed, Board and Cloathing, &c. of Children from Seven till Fifteen Years old; when, according to their Genius and Capacity, some are sent to the Univer|sity, or apprenticed out to Trades; for which there is a Provision, which, including the Maintenance of the Hospital, amounts to 250l. a Year. A noble and well chosen Piece of Charity.

We turned East to Selby, situate on the South Side of the Ouse, a small Market-town, but very well inhabited, and is famous for giving Birth to our Henry I. The Conqueror built an Abbey here,

We then fell down directly South, and came to Snath upon the Aire; which is but an inconsiderable Town; but, like Selby, has a pretty good Trade. I should have mention'd, that there are several Mer|chants that live at Selby; and that the Ouse is navi|gable up to the Town for large Vessels, and has a good Share of Trade that Way.

We fell down still lower South, to Thorn on the River Dun, an indifferent Town, of no other Not•…•… than its Situation within the Marshes; which is

called Marsh-land Island; for it is incompassed by the Dun, the Aire, the Ouse, and another little River, which parts it from the Isle of Axholm, on the Edge of Lincolnshire, already spoken of; so that these Two River Islands are contiguous.

Being now come to the Banks of the Ouse, near the Influx of the Trent into the Humber, I shall, after re|minding you, that I have now accomplished another Part of the Proposition in my last Letter, cross over the Ouse to Howdon.

Howdon lies on the Ouse North, in the East|riding of Yorkshire. It is a pretty large Town, and is subject to great Inundations from the River, occa|sioned by the Freshes which come down from the Woulds; and has been so, it seems, ever since 1390; when a Bishop of Durham built a very tall Steeple to the Church, that in case of a sudden Inundation, the People might save themselves in it. And there have been, within these few Years, several Commissions for Repairing the Banks.

The Fair, or Mart, held here for Eight Days to|gether, is very considerable for Inland Trade, and several Wholesale Tradesmen come to it from London. But the Town is more famous for the Birth or Resi|dence of one of our antient Historians, Roger of Hoveden, or Howdon, a Monk of this Abbey. Mr. Camden's Continuator is mistaken, in saying this Town stands upon the Derwent; for it is above Three Miles South-east of it; tho' the Der|went was made navigable, pursuant to Act of Par|liament, 1 Annae, to the Ouse.

The Bishop of Durham has a Temporal Jurisdiction in this Part of the Country, which is called How|donshire.

I found nothing in this low Part of the Country but a wonderful Conflux of great Rivers, all pour|ing down into the Humber, which receiving the Aire,

the Ouse, the Dun, and the Trent, becomes rather a Sea than a River.

I observed, that the Middle of this Division of Yorkshire is very thin of Towns and People, being overspread with Woulds, which are Plains and Downs, like those of Salisbury, which feed great Numbers of Sheep, Black Cattle, and Horses, and produce Corn. The Northern Part, especially, is more mountainous, which makes Part of the North-riding. But the East and West Parts are populous and rich, and full of Towns, the one lying on the Sea Coast, and the other upon the River Derwent, as above. The Sea Coast, or South-east Side, is called Holderness.

From hence we travelled North-east up to Wighton, being but a very little out of the Way to Beverley. It is a small, but antient Market-town, seated on the Banks of a little River called Foulness. Here are some Roman as well as British Antiquities. 'Tis supposed to be the Delgovitia Station of the Romans, from the British Word Ddelw or Delgive, signifying Image. Some have conjectured, that here has been a Temple of the Druids, and that their Groves were in the Wood of Dierwald, which they interpret as derived from the British Word Derwen, an Oak.

On the North-west of Wighton towards the Der|went, stands the Market-town of Pocklington, which we were told was so inconsiderable, that it would not be worth our while to go so much out of our Way to see it. So keeping on East under the Woulds, we arrived at Beverley, which is situate just at the Foot of them, about a Mile from the River Hull. It is a large populous corporate Town, under the Govern|ment of a Mayor, Aldermen, &c. It takes its Name from the great Number of Beavers, with which that River abounded. It had formerly a considerable Trade, by means of a Creek, or Cut, commonly called Be|verley-beck, of old made from the Town to the River Hull, which runs into the Humber, for the Passage of

Ships and Boats, Keels, Wherries, Hoys, &c. to and from the said Town; and as it had likewise divers Staiths or Landing-places adjoining to the said Beech, for the Lading and Unlading of all sorts of Merchan|dize, the Town was wont to receive no small Ad|vantage from this Cut or River. But there being no settled Fund for keeping it open, and cleansing it, and the Expence of doing it being beyond the Ability of the Corporation, the said Beck was, in time, choaked up, and the Staiths grew out of Repair; whence an Act passed, Anno 1727, for Cleansing, Deepening and Widening the Creek, and for Repair|ing the Staiths, and for Mending the Roads leading from the said Cut to the Town; and at the same time providing for the Cleansing of the Town itself: all which has had a very good Effect; for before, the Creek lying in the lower Part of the Town, th•• Filth, Dirt, and Soil of the Town was washed int•• it, which very much contributed to choak it up.

Beverley is the chief Town of the East-riding, and began to be of great Note from the Time that John of Beverly, Archbishop of York, the first Doctor of Divinity in Oxford, and Preceptor to Venerable Bede, built a Monastery here, and afterwards retired into it himself, where he died A. D. 721. King Athelstan, having made a Vow at the Altar of St. John, before he proceeded against the Scots, in his Return, A. D. ••30. instituted a new College of Secular Canons, and granted to the Town many Immunities; parti|cularly, to the Freemen of it, an Exemption from all manner of Tolls, which was afterwards con|firmed by King Henry I. and by all or most of the Kings and Queens of this Realm to this Time, as the Mayor's Certificate expresses it; which he gives to such Freemen as apply for it, in the Form fol|lowing:

Villa de Beverley in Com' Ebor. ss.

To all Persons to whom these Presents shall come, A. B. Esq Mayor of the aforesaid Town of Beverley, sendeth greeting.

KNow ye that King Athelstan, of famous Me|mory, did grant, and also King Henry the First did grant and confirm to the Men of the said Town of Beverley, and afterwards to them, by the Name of the Governors, or Keepers and Burgesses of Beverley, an Exemption of all manner of Imposts, Toll, Tallage, Stallage, Tunnage, Lastage, Pickage, Wharsage, and of and from all and every the like Exactions, Payments and Duties, throughout and in all Places whatsoever, by Sea and Land, within all their Dominions of England and Wales. Which said Grants were confirmed by all or most of the succeeding Kings and Queens, to the Time of Queen Elizabeth, who confirmed the same to them by the Name of the Mayor, Governors and Burgesses of Beverley, with several Grants, which have been also con|firmed by all or most of the Kings and Queens of this Realm, till this Time; as by many and sundry Charters under their Great Seals, more at large may appear. These are therefore to certify, that C. D. is a Burgess of the said Town of Bever|ley, and is therefore discharged of and from all and every the said Exactions, Payments and Duties. In Testimony whereof the said Mayor hath here|unto subscribed his Name, and caused the Com|mon Seal of the said Town, used in this Behalf, to be affixed this — Day, &c.

By these, and the like Privileges, the Town keeps up its flourishing Condition, notwithstanding it is within Six Miles of so powerful a Rival as Hull.

It has all the Advantage, indeed, of a good Situation, to invite Gentlemen to reside in it; and being the nearest Town of Note to the Centre of this Riding, the Sessions are always held here, in a spacious and beautiful Hall, which has a publick Garden and Walks, not inferior to any of their kind in England. In this Hall-garth, as it is called, is a handsome Register-office for Deeds and Wills within this Division; which is the only County in England, besides Middlesex, which has such a Registry; to the great Reproach of the Nation be it said, especially when it shall be remembered, that no less than two Bills (one for a Registry for the County of Surrey, and another, after that, for a General Registry over the whole Kingdom) were respectively opposed, and miscarried very lately in Parliament.

Here are Two weekly Markets; one on Wednes|days, for Cattle; the other on Saturdays, for Corn. The Market-place is as large as most, having a beautiful Cross, supported by Eight Free-stone Co|lumns, of one intire Stone each, erected at the Charge of Sir Charles Hotham, and Sir Michael Wharton; upon which was this Inscription:

HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA FREED-STOOLE DICI|TUR, i. e. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD QUAM REVS FVGIENDO PERVENIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECVRITATEM.

That is:

This Stone Seat is called Freed-Stoole, or Chair of Peace; to which, if any Criminal flee, he shall have full Protection.

The Common Gaol has been lately re-edified at a considerable Expence, the Windows well sashed; and, as if Works of Piety were more peculiarly adapted to this Place, there are Seven Alms-houses in the Town, and Legacies left for Two more;

besides a Work-house, which has cost 700l. It has a Free-school, to the Scholars of which are appro|priated Two Fellowships at St. John's College in Cambridge, and Nine Exhibitions.

Here were formerly Four Churches, now only Two, but the largest and finest Parochial ones in the Kingdom: viz. the late Collegiate Church of St. John the Evangelist, still called the Minster, and St. Mary's. The Minster being very ruinous, a Brief was procured for the Repair of it in the Year 1710; the Produce of which, and the Subscription Money, being placed in the publick Funds, was farther augmented by the Rise of South-Sea Stock, which enabled the prudent Managers to complete their pious Design in the most beautiful manner, assisted by the Advice of that noted Architect Nicolas Hawksmore, Esq King George I. encouraged this Work not only by a liberal Donation of Money, but of Stone likewise from the dissolved Monastery of St. Mary's in York. Sir Michael Wharton gave in his Life-time 500l. and by Will 4000l. as a per|petual Fund towards keeping it in Repair.

The Choir is paved with Marble of Four different Colours, Lozenge-wise, appearing cubical to the Eye. Over the Altar is a large and magnificent wooden Arch curiously engraven, standing upon Eight fluted Columns of the Corinthian Order. The Altar-table is one intire Stone of white Marble, finely polished; the Gift of Mr. Moyser. The East Window is of painted Glass, collected out of the several Windows about the Church; but so artfully joined, that they make throughout one regular and intire Figure. The Screen between the Choir and the Nef has been lately rebuilt of Roch-abbey Stone in the Gothick Style, and is deservedly esteemed one of the chief Ornaments of the Church. The Body of the Church is paved with the said Stone intermixed with black Marble. The Pulpit,

Reading-desk, and Cover of the Font, are all new, and of excellent Workmanship: the Galleries also are new, and beautifully finished, supported by Co|lumns of the Dorick Order. But not the least sur|prising Thing in this Pile, is the North End Wall of the great cross Ayle, which hung over Three Feet and a half, but was screwed up to its proper Level by the ingenious Contrivance of Mr. Thornton of York, who prepared an admirable Machine for the Purpose.

On the 13th of September, Anno 1664, upon opening a Grave, they met with a Vault of square Free Stone 15 Feet long, and Two Feet broad: within it was a Sheet of Lead Four Feet long, and in that the Ashes, and Six Beads, (whereof Three crumbled to Dust with a Touch; of the Three re|maining, Two were supposed to be Cornelian) with Three great Brass Pins, and Four large Iron Nails. Upon the Sheet lay a leaden Plate, with this Inscri|ption, in Capital Letters:

Anno ab Incarnatione Domini MCLXXXVIII. com|•••…•••… fuit haec Ecclesia in mense Septembri, in sequenti 〈◊〉〈◊〉 post festum sancti Matthaei apostoli. Et in Anno MCXCVII. sexto idus Martii, facta fuit inquisitio retiquiarum beati Joannis in hoc loco; et inventa sunt haec ossa in orientali parte sepulchri, et hic recon|dita, et pulvis cemento mixtus ibidem inventus est et reconditus.

Thus English'd:

In the Year of the Lord's Incarnation 1188, in September, the Night after the Festival of St. Matthew the Apostle, this Church was consumed by Fire: and in the Year 1197, on the 10th of March, Search was made for the Reliques of St. John in this Place; and these Bones were found in the Eastern Part of the

Sepulchre, and here deposited; and a Mixture of Dust and Mortar was found in the same Place, and deposited.

Over this lay a Box of Lead about Seven Inches long, Six broad. and Five deep, wherein were several Pieces of Bones mixed with a little Dust, and yield|ing a sweet Smell. All these Things were carefully re-interred in the Middle Ayle of the Body of the Minster, with this Inscription added, in Capital Letters:

Reliquiae eaedem effossae, et ibidem compositae, fornice lateritio dignabantur XXVI. die mensis Martii, Anno Domini MDCCXXVI; quando v. tesselatum ecclesiae hujus pavimentum primo fuit instauratum.

Thus English'd:

The same Reliques which were dug up, and re|placed, were adorned with an Arch of Brick-work, on the 26th Day of March 1726; when the Fifth tesselated Pavement of this Church was first repaired.

Over it, directly upon the Roof, is an Inscription, to shew where the Reliques are interr'd.

In this Church are several Monuments of the Piercies, Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little Chapel to the Choir. On the Right Side of the Altar-place stands the Freed-stool, mentioned above, made of one intire Stone, and said to have been removed from Dunbar in Scotland, with a Well of Water behind it. At the upper End of the Body of the Church, next the Choir, hangs an an|tient Table with the Picture of St. John the Evan|gelist, (from whom the Church is named) and of King Athelstan, the Founder of it, and between them this Distich:

Als free make I thee, As Heart can wish, or Egh can see.

In the Body of the Church stands an antient Monu|ment, which they call the Virgins Tomb; because Two Virgin Sisters lay buried there, who gave the Town a Piece of Land, into which any Freeman may put Three Milch Kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower End of the Body of the Church, stands a fair large Font of Agat Stone.

The principal Trade of the Town is making Malt, Oat-meal, and tann'd Leather; but the poor People mostly support themselves by working Bone-lace, which of late has met with particular Encourage|ment, the Children being maintained at School to learn to read, and to work this Sort of Lace. The Clothing-trade was formerly followed in this Town; but Leland tells us, that even in his Time it was very much decayed.

They have several Fairs, but one more especially remarkable, called the Mart, beginning about Nine Days before Ascension-day, and kept in a Street lead|ing to the Minster Garth, called Londoners-street; for the Londoners bring down their Wares, and furnish the Country Tradesmen by Wholesale.

About a Mile from Beverly to the East, in a Pasture belonging to the Town, is a kind of Spaw, tho' they say it cannot be judged by the Taste, whe|ther it comes from any Mineral, or not; yet taken inwardly, it is a great Drier, and bathed in, dries scorbutick Scurf, and all Sorts of Scabs, and also very much helps against the King's Evil.

From Beverley I came to Hull (properly called Kingston upon Hull) Distance Six Miles. If you would have an Idea of Hamburgh, Dantzick, Rot|terdam, or any of the second Cities abroad, which are famed for their Commerce, you may visit this Town. It is not indeed so large as those; but, in

proportion to the Dimensions of it, I believe more Business is done in Hull, than in any Town in Eu|rope. Liverpoole of late comes very near it; but it has not the Advantage of a London Trade, which Hull has.

In the last War, the Fleets from Hull to London were frequently 100 Sail; sometimes, including the other Creeks in the Humber, 160 Sail at a time; and to Holland their Trade was so considerable, that the Dutch always imployed Two Men of War to convoy the Merchant-men to and from Hull, and those were as many as they sent to London.

In a word, all the Trade at Leeds, Wakefield, and Halifax, of which I have spoken so particularly, is negotiated here. All the Lead Trade of Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire, from Bautry Wharf; the Butter of the East and North-riding brought down the Ouse to York; the Cheese down the Trent from Stafford, Warwick, and Cheshire; and the Corn, from all the Counties adjacent, are shipped off here.

So again, they supply all these Countries with foreign Goods, for which they trade to all Parts of the known World; nor have the Merchants of any Port in Britain greater Credit, or a fairer Character, than the Merchants of Hull, as well for the Justice of their Dealings, as the Greatness of their Substance. From Norway, and the Baltick, Dantzick, Riga, Narva, and Petersburg, they make large Returns in Iron, Copper, Hemp, Flax, Canvas, Muscovy Linen and Yarn, and other Things; all which they get Vend for in the Country in prodigious Quantities. They have also a great Importation of Wine, Linen, Oil, Fruit, &c. from Holland, France, and Spain. The Trade of Tobacco and Sugars from the West-Indies, they chiefly manage by the Way of London. But besides all this, their Export of Corn, as well to London as to Holland and France, exceeds all of the

Kind that is or can be at any Port in England, London excepted.

Their Shipping is a great Article, in which they exceed all the Towns and Ports on that Coast, except Yarmouth, saving that their Shipping consists chiefly in smaller Vessels than the Coal-trade is supplied with, tho' they have a great many large Vessels too, which are imployed in their foreign Trade.

The Town is situated at the Mouth of the River Hull, where it falls into the Humber, and where the Humber opens into the German Ocean; so that one Side of the Town lies upon the Sea, the other upon the Land. This makes the Situation naturally very strong; and, were there occasion, it is capable of being made impregnable, by reason of the low Grounds round it.

The Advantages of this Situation struck King Edward I. as he was riding a hunting, after his Return from the Defeat of the Scots in the Year 1296. Upon which he immediately granted several Privi|leges and Immunities to those who would build and settle here, erected a Manor-hall himself, and fitted up an Harbour, from whence it received the Name of Kings-town. It held out against King Charles I. who went in Person to demand it, when Sir John Hotham told his Majesty,

"He kept it for the Par|liament against him."

Yet both the Hothams. viz. Father and Son, lost their Heads by that very Parliament.

King Charles II. on occasion of the frequent Dutch Wars in his Reign, had once resolved to ap|point a Station for a Squadron of Men of War here, with a Yard and Dock for building Ships; and on this Occasion, resolved to make the Place strong in pro|portion to what those Affairs required: upon which a large Citadel was marked out on the other Side of the River; but it was never finished.

The Town is exceeding close built, and populous, even to an Inconvenience, having really no room to extend itself by Buildings. There are but Two Churches, Trinity and St. Mary's; the former is very large, in which is a fine Altar-piece by Par|mentier; the latter is thought to have been once larger than it is. King Henry VIII. used it as his Chapel Royal, and with the same Freedom; for this Defender of the Faith, and Protector of the Church, pulled down the Steeple, because it stood opposite to the Place where he resided. The Inhabitants after|wards built it up again at their own Expence.

They shew us still, in their Town-hall, the Figure of a Northern Fisherman, supposed to be of Green|land. He was taken up at Sea in a Leathern Boat, which he sat in, and was covered with Skins, which drew together about his Waist, so that the Boat could not take in Water, and he could not sink. The Creature would neither feed, nor speak, and so died.

They have a very handsome Exchange here, where the Merchants from foreign Countries, and others from the different Parts of the Kingdom, meet, as at London. The Business arising from the Navigation of all the great Rivers which fall into the Humber, is transacted here. There is also a fine Free-school founded by John Alcock, Bishop of Worcester, after|wards of Ely, who was born at Beverley, but chose to extend his Liberality to this Place. Over the School is the Merchant's Hall.

But the Trinity House here is the Glory of the Town. It is a Corporation of itself, composed of a Society of Merchants. It was begun by voluntary Contribution for Relief of distressed and aged Sea|men, and their Wives or Widows; but was after|wards improved by the Government, and incorpo|rated. They have a very good Revenue, which in|creases every Day by Charities.

They maintain 30 Sisters now actually in the House, Widows of Seamen. They have a Govern|ment by 12 Elder Brethern and Six Assistants. Out of the 12 they chuse annually Two Wardens, (but the whole 18 vote in electing them) and Two Stewards. These have a Power to decide Disputes between Masters of Ships and their Crews, in Matters relating to Sea Affairs; and with this Limitation, that their Judgment be not contrary to the Laws of the Land; but so great Deference is paid to it, that in Trials at Law in such Affairs, they are often called to give their Opinions.

Here is a noble Stone Bridge over the River Hull, consisting of 14 Arches. A Greenland Fishery, set up in this Town, went on with Success for a while, but it decayed in the Time of the Dutch Wars; and the House built by the Greenland Mer|chants is now turned into Granaries for Corn, and Warehouses for other Goods.

The old Hospital, call'd GOD'S HOUSE, stands near it, with a Chapel; both which were pulled down in the Civil Wars 1643, but were rebuilt in 1673; and the Arms of the de la Poles, being found among the Ruins, were placed over the Door of the Hospital, with this Inscription:

DEO ET PAVPERIBVS POSVIT
MICHAEL DE LA POLE, 1384.

This Michael was the Son of William de la Pole, sometime a Merchant at Ravenspurn, formerly a flourishing Town of Trade at the Mouth of the Humber; but being removed to this new Town of Kingston, in the Time of Edward III. gave that King a magnificent Entertainment, when, in the Sixth Year of his Reign, he came to take a View of the Place; upon which our Merchant was knighted. The King afterwards, going into Flanders against the French, met Sir William at Antwerp, where he sup|plied

him with several Thousands of Pounds, and even mortgaged his Estate for his Royal Master's Use. Such Services could not go unrewarded from so generous, and so successful a Prince. He made him Knight Banneret in the Field, settled on him and his Heirs Lands at Kingston to the Value of 500 Marks a Year, and upon his Return into England increased them to 1000, and advanced him in Time to be Chief Baron of the Exchequer.

Sir William died about 1356, after he had begun a Monastery here for the Carthusians. His Son, Sir Michael, who, 6 Richard II. was made Lord Chan|cellor, not only finished it, but founded likewise the Hospital called GOD'S HOUSE, above-mentioned. He built moreover a stately Palace, called the Duke of Suffolk's, which Honour he obtained in Right of his Wife Elizabeth, eldest Daughter of Sir John Wingfield, who married the Heiress of Gilbert Gran|ville, Earl of Suffolk. But the Happiness of him, and his Family, being now arrived to the Height, set in Misfortunes; for in the Year 1388, he was impeached of High Treason, and fled for his Life into France, where he died. William de la Pole was Prime Minister to King Henry VI. and suspected to be too familiar with his heroick Queen. He was impeached by the Commons, Anno 1450, and ba|nished; but his Head was struck off by the Manage|ment of his Enemies, as soon as he set his Foot on the French Shore.

John de la Pole married the Sister of King Ed|ward IV. and so became allied to Royal Blood, and, by that means, exposed to various Misfortunes; and the famous Cardinal Polé, who flourished in the Reign of Queen Mary I. descended from that Marriage.

Here are a great many other Hospitals besides, and likewise a Work-house, and a good Free-school.

Tho' this Town, and a small adjacent Territory, be generally reckoned in Yorkshire, yet 'tis really a distinct Liberty and County of itself, governed by a Mayor, a Sheriff, 12 Aldermen, &c. The Cor|poration has Two Swords, one a Present from King Richard II. and the other from King Henry VIII. one of which is, on publick Occasions, carried before the Mayor, and a Cap of Maintenance, and Oar of Lignum-vitae, as Ensigns of Honour, the last being also a Badge of his Admiralty within the Limits of the Humber.

Farther East from Hull is a little pleasant Corpo|rate and Mayor-town, called Heydon; 'tis handsome, well-built, and hath a little Haven from the Sea, which increases daily.

The Sea incroaches much upon the Land on all the Shore about this Town; and 'tis said, that many large Fields, as well as Towns, which have been formerly known to have been there, have been wash'd away and lost.

History tells us, that a Town called Ravensburgh stood somewhere this way; and 'tis memorable for Baliol King of Scotland having set out thence to recover his Kingdom against Bruce; and also for the Landing of Henry IV. when Duke of Hereford, and the Reception he met with there from the Eng|lish Nobility, against Richard II. and yet there are no Vestigia or Traces of this Town to be now met with.

The Spurn Head, a long Promontory thrusting out into the Sea, and making the North Point of Humber, is very remarkable. But I leave that till I come to the Description of the Sea Coasts. I can only observe, that there is nothing worth Observa|tion upon this Side for above 30 Miles together, not a Port, not a Gentleman's Seat, not a Town of any Note, except Patrington, which is a very antient corporate Town, and very pleasantly seated within

the Promontory, and had likewise formerly a good Harbour: on one Side it looks into the Humber, and on the other over sweet delicious green Fields, which renders its Situation very agreeable. It is supposed to be the Praetorium of Ptolemy. The Roman Way from the Picts Wall ends here, as indeed it can hardly go further, unless it should extend to Keln|sey, a little Village standing at the Head of the Pro|montory.

Spurnhead is likewise supposed to be the Occellum of Ptolemy, deriv'd from the British Word Y••hell, which signifies a high Place on the East-side of this Promontory, on the German Sea. The Villages lie very thick, but I met with nothing of Note till we came up to Hornsey, which is almost surrounded with a little Arm of the Sea. The Steeple here is a notable Sea-mark, but is much fallen into Ruin. Here was a whole Street wash'd away by the Sea, as, 'tis said, a Village called Hide was, a little to the North, as well as many other Villages on this Coast.

North-west of Hornsey, some Distance from the Sea, stands Kilham, a Market-town in the Woulds, but of no Note.

We next come to Burlington, or Birdlington, a good large Market-town, situate on a Creek of the Sea. It is a Place of good Trade, and has a safe Harbour for Ships, and a good Quay to load and unload them. It is much frequented by the Colliers. The Harbour is made still better, and yet improving, by virtue of several Acts of Parliament passed for Repair of its Piers, the last of which, inforcing the former, and supplying Defects, was in 1723. Here William of Newborough, (a Village just by) one of our Historians, was a Canon Regular, and resided, when he fell so violently upon Geoffrey of Mon|mouth's History, and treated him very abusively, which Leland blames him very much for, as irre|verent and uncharitable to a Bishop after his Death.

It seems there was a personal Enmity between Wil|liam and some of Geoffrey's Family; tho' the last is in no wise to be justified in some of his fictitious Assertions, no more than the other is for absolutely denying there was such a Man as King Arthur, and that the Ground at Battle Abbey, where Harold was slain in fighting against the Conqueror, always sweats Blood after Rain.

The Country People told us a Story here of Gipsies, which visit them often in a surprising Man|ner. We were strangely amused with their Dis|course at first, forming our Ideas from the Word, which, in ordinary Signification with us, denotes a Sort of str•…•…lling Vagabonds. But we were soon made to understand, that the People meant by them cer|tain Streams of Water, which at different Seasons (for none knows when they will happen) gush out of the Earth with great Violence and Noise, spout|ing up to a great Height, being natural Jette d' Eaux, or Fountains, which afterwards joining together, form little Rivers, and so hasten to the Sea. I had not time to examine into the Particulars; and as the Irruption was not just then to be seen, we could say little to it. That which was most observable to us, was, that the Country People have a Notion, that whenever those Gipsies, or, as some call them, Vipsies, break out, there will certainly ensue either Famine or Plague. This puts me in mind, that the very same thing is said to happen at Swintham Bot|tom in Surrey, beyond Croydon, and that the Water gushing out of the chalky Hills about eight Miles from Croydon, on the Road to Ryegate, fills the whole Bottom, and makes a large River, running just to the Town's End of Croydon; and then turning to the Left, runs into the River, which rises in the Town, and so to Cashalton. I mention it, because the Country People here have exactly the same Notion, that this Water never breaks out but against a Fa|mine;

and as I am sure it has not now broken out for more than 60 Years, it may, for aught I know, be true.

Near Burlington stands Flamborough-head, a little Promontory, which bends a little into the Sea, and forms the Bay of Burlington. It takes its Name from Flam, a British Word for a Fire-light; and not far from this Promontory is a very large Ditch, which some of the antient Earls of Holderness threw up as a Boundary to their Jurisdiction and Estate. It is call'd Earls Dyke.

Humanby stands next, but is so inconsiderable, that it has lost the Privilege of its Market, if it ever had any.

At Lebberston, a little Village, a small Way from the Sea, the famous River Derwent takes its Rise, and makes its Way West, instead of running into the Sea here. And here I take Leave of the East-riding, which is in no wise so fruitful as the other two Ridings, by reason that the middle Part of it is over-run with the Woulds; which are high Grounds, barren and moorish; but are however well-stock'd with Sheep: yet the Eastern Part upon the Sea is fruitful and pleasant, which, as well as the Southern Part, produces all Sort of Grain and Grass. But then, if you take in its Trade and Traffick, it excels both the other Ridings.

Scarborough is the first Town we come to upon the Coast in the North-riding: it is a Borough Baili|wick Town, the Situation of which is perfectly ro|mantick; bending in the Form of a Crescent to the main Ocean, of which you have almost an unbound|ed Prospect from all Parts, it being built on a steep Rock, and the Declivity of a lofty Hill, on the Top of which stood an antient Castle, founded by William le Gros, in the Time of King Stephen, and repaired and inlarg'd afterwards by King Henry II. but de|molished in the late Civil Wars. The Summit of this

Hill contains no less than 18 or 20 Acres of Mea|dow-ground. The Town is populous, almost incom|passed by the Sea, and walled where it joins not to the Castle, or is more strongly defended by the Sea. It has one of the best Harbours in the Kingdom, especially since the passing of an Act of Parliament, Anno 1732, to inlarge its Piers and Harbour, by which they have gained 6 Feet Depth of Water, which enables the Harbour to receive Vessels of greater Burden than it could do before. And it is the best Place, between Newcastle and the Humber capable of receiving in Distress of Weather Ships coming from the Eastern Seas along our Northern Coast.

The Spaw Waters (whose admirable Virtues yearly occasion a great Concourse of the Nobility and Gentry of the Kingdom) were first discovered by Mrs. Ferrow about 120 Years ago, then an Inhabit|ant of the Place.

They are reckoned Cathartick and Diuretick, much in their Nature like those of Pyrmont in Germany, and are apparently tinged with a Collection of Mi|neral Salts, as of Vitriol, Alum, Iron, and perhaps Sulphur; but being deemed of the same Nature as those of Cheltenham in Gloucestershire, before describ'd, I refer to them.

Scarborough may be said even to rival the Bath it|self, and, on several Accounts, is more eligible and in|viting to Strangers. It is well for the Bath, that its Seasons interfere not with theirs; for it is fre|quented chiefly in the hot Months of the Summer.

There are many new Buildings in it; and more going forward, so that there is now good Accom|modation for great Numbers even of the highest Quality; and they have Assemblies and Publick Balls, in long Rooms built on purpose.

The unfortunate Accident that happen'd in De|cember 1737, whereby this famous Spaw had like to

have been lost, deserves to be mentioned here. Take then the Account as follows:

The Spaw, as to its Situation, lay South from the Town, on the Sands, and fronting the Sea to the East, under a high Cliff on the Back of it, West; the Top of the Cliff being above the High-water Level, 54 Yards; and all about a Quarter of a Mile from the Town.

The Staith or Wharf adjoining to the Spaw-house, was a large Body of Stone, bound by Timbers, and was a Fence against the Sea, for the Security of the House; it was 76 Feet long, and 14 Feet high, and in Weight by Computation 2463 Tons. The House and Buildings were upon a Level with the Staith; at the North End of which, and near adjoining to it, upon a small Rise above the level Sands, and at the Foot of the Stairs that lead up to the Top of the said Staith, and to the House, were the Spaw Wells.

On Wednesday, December 28, in the Morning, a great Crack was heard from the Cellar of the Spaw House, and upon Search, the Cellar was found rent; but at the Time, no farther Notice was taken of it.

The Night following, another Crack was heard; and in the Morning, the Inhabitants were surprised to see the strange Posture it stood in, and got several Gentlemen to view it, who being of Opinion the House could not stand long, advised them to get out their Goods; but they still continued in it.

On Thursday following, between Two and Three in the Afternoon, another Crack was heard, and the Top of the Cliff behind it rent 224 Yards in Length, and 36 in Breadth, and was all in Motion, slowly descending; and so continued till dark. The Ground thus rent, contained about an Acre of Pasture-land, and had Cattle then feeding upon it, and was on a Level with the main Land, but sunk near 17 Yards perpendicular. The Sides of the Cliff nearest the Spaw stood as before, but were rent and broken in

many Places, and forced forwards to the Sea. The Ground, when sunk, lay upon a Level, and the Cattle next Morning were still feeding on it, the main Land being as a Wall on the West, and some Part of the Side of the Cliff as a Wall to the East; but the Whole, to View, gave such a confused Pro|spect, as could hardly be described.

The Rent of the Top of the Cliff aforesaid, from the main Land, was 224 Yards. The Rent con|tinued from each End, down the Side of the Cliff, to the Sands, was measured on the Sands from one End to the other, 168 Yards; viz. 143 South of the Staith and Spaw Wells, and 100 to the North of the Spaw.

As the Ground sunk, the Earth, or Sand, on which the People used to walk under the Cliff, rose upwards out of its natural Position, for above 100 Yards in Length, on each Side of the Staith, North and South; and was in some Places six, and in others seven Yards above its former Level. The Spaw Wells rose with it; but as soon as it began to rise, the Water at the Spaw Well ceas'd run|ning, and was gone.

The Ground thus risen was 26 Yards broad; the Staith, which was computed at 2463 Tons, rose intire and whole, 12 Feet higher than its former Po|sition, (but rent a little in the Front) and was forced forwards towards the Sea, 20 Yards.

The most reasonable Account then given for this Phaenomenon, and the Occasion of the Destruction of the Staith, and Spaw House, and the Loss for some time of the Spaw Spring, is as follows:

When this Staith, or Wharf, was lately rebuilt, (it being thrown down by the Violence of the Sea) Mr. Vincent, Engineer for the building of the new Pier at Scarborough, was desir'd to rebuild this Staith at the Spaw; and digging a Trench to lay the Foundation thereof, with great Difficulty clear'd it

of Water; and when he had done it, could, at seve|ral Parts thereof, very easily thrust his Stick or Cane up to the Handle; from whence it is concluded, that all the Earth under the Staith was of a porous, spongy, swampy Nature, and was much the same below the Foundation of the Spaw House, and all under the Sides of the Cliff adjoining, as well North as South.

Allowing this to be Fact, the solid Earth sinking on the Top of the Cliff, as afore-mention'd, (which was of so vast a Weight, as by Computation to amount to 261, 360 Tons) pressing gradually upon and into the swampy, boggy Earth beneath it, would of course, and did, raise the Earth and Sands as before noticed, and so effected the Mischief we have particulariz'd.

But, very luckily for the Town, after a diligent Search, and clearing away the Ruins, as we may say, they found again the Spaw Spring; and on Trial, had the Pleasure to find the Water rather better'd than impair'd by the Disaster. And now the Whole is in a more flourishing Condition than ever.

Here is such plenty of all Sorts of Fish, that I have hardly seen the like. To describe the Herring, the Cod, the Whiting, is only to repeat what is said in other Places, and what we shall have occasion to repeat, more than once, now we begin to go far North.

We travelled a long Way from Scarborough, before we came to the next Market-town, which is Whitby, situate at the Influx of the little River Esk, into the Sea. It has an excellent Harbour, and a good Trade by Sea, and 'tis said to have above 200 Ships be|longing to it. Here are built a great Number of good Ships for the Coal Trade. It hath a good Custom-house. The Market is well furnish'd, and supply'd with all Sorts of Provisions.

The Harbour and Piers being somewhat decay'd they were repair'd by virtue of Two Acts of Parlia|ment, in the First and Seventh Years of Queen Anne; and in 1733, an Act pass'd to preserve, con|tinue, and keep the said Piers in Repair for ever.

By means of these several Acts of Parliament, the Piers of Whitby have been rebuilt and completed; but yet for some Years past the Entrance into the Port has been rendered very narrow and difficult, by reason of a Bank of Sand, which has been gather|ing about the Head of the West Pier, insomuch that it bid fair to choak up the Harbour; nor could this Inconvenience be redress'd in the Opinion of the best Judges, but by lengthening and extending the West Pier, and its Head, about 100 Yards farther into the Sea. For this Reason another Act passed in the Eighth of King George II. for lengthening the West Pier, and for improving the Harbour.

At the Foot of some Rocks, at this Town, have been found Stones naturally as round as a Bullet, which when broken, stony Serpents are found in them, for the most part headless, look'd upon as a Lusus Naturae.

This Place was antiently called Streanshall, and Oswy King of Northumberland held a Council here, in 663, to determine the Controversy between those who kept Easter after the British manner, and those who kept it after the Roman manner, which Augu|stine the Monk had lately introduced. After the Party for the first had spoken, the other answering, insisted they kept Easter after the manner of St. Peter, on whom Christ promised to build his Church, and had the Keys of Heaven. Upon which the King ask'd, If it was true, that Christ had spoken so to St. Peter? Which the adverse Party allowing, the King swore a great Oath, That he would not disoblige this Porter of Heaven, lest, when he came to the Gates, he should remember him: and

so establish'd the Celebration of Easter after the Ro|man Manner.

Near this Place are some Alum Mines, belonging to her Grace the Dutchess of Bucks, in which there is carry'd on a very considerable Trade.

We inquir'd as to that strange and wonderful Phe|nomenon relating to the Air here, which, as the wild Geese fly over a Piece of Ground near this Place, in hard Winters, to the Lakes in the Southern Coun|tries, makes them drop down all of a sudden to the Ground; and had it assur'd to us for Truth, though none could assign any Reason for it.

There are Spaw Waters at Whitby, which have had great Reputation. Several curious and antique Coins have been dug up in this Neighbourhood; and a Monastery was founded here by St. Hilda, about the Year 650; and being destroyed by the Danes, was afterwards rebuilt: the Ruins of which (very considerable) are still to be seen. In the Month of November 1710, such a dreadful Storm happen'd here, that the Damage to the Shipping, &c. was computed at 40,000l.

Here the Coast inclines North-west, and we fol|lowed it till we came to Gisborough, a Market-town pretty well built, a little way from the Sea, upon a small nameless River. It is a fine and delicious Situation, endued with such a grateful Variety and Advantages of Nature, as renders it most delightfully pleasant: a fine Scene of Verdure overspreads all the Grounds about it, which are deck'd with Plenty of Field-flowers, almost all the Year round. Some compare it to Puteoli in Italy, but allow that it exceeds it in Healthiness. It stands high, and would have been incommoded with cold Breezes (as it stands so Northerly) from the Sea, but that some Hills conveniently interfere, so as to qualify the Cold.

The Behaviour of the Inhabitants too participates of the Pleasantness of the Place; for they are very courteous, well-bred, and obliging, and very neat and cleanly in their Houses.

Here are likewise some Alum Mines, but not so considerable and easy wrought as those of Whitby, which has taken off a great Part of that Trade from hence.

This pleasant Town is the last on the East-side towards the Sea, in this North-riding, in our Way to Durham. It made so delightful an Impression on my Mind, that I left the whole County in gene|ral, but this Place, and truly pleasurable Country about it, in particular, with Regret.

And thus have I accomplish'd the third and last Part of my Proposition, with respect to my Circuit through this large and far extended County: and though I have been not a little circumstantial in my Accounts of it, yet there are many curious Matters, that still remain untouch'd, and could not be brought within the Compass of an Epistolary Correspondence of this kind.

But as I have given you only a Description of the County above Ground, take the following Memo|randums of the Treasures which are contained in its Bowels:

Alum, Jet, or Black Amber, Copperas, Marble, Pit-coal, Lead, Copper, Limestone, and Kelp.

The first Market-town we come to in the Bishop|rick of Durham, on the East-side, is Stockton, which lies on the North-side of the Teis. It has risen, at the Expence of Yarum, from a poor pitiful Village, with Clay Walls and Straw Covering to the Houses, to a well-built Corporate Town, of great Resort and Business, govern'd by a Mayor, &c. 'Tis famous for its Ale, and a good Trade, which it carries on in

Lead and Butter, by the Teis, with London, which formerly was altogether at Yarum. But this Town lying nearer the Sea, and consequently more conve|nient, has almost engross'd the whole Trade to itself.

Coasting along the Sea-side, we come next to Hartlepool, which is a famous corporate Mayor-town, and seated on a little Promontory, which juts out into the Sea, with which it is encompass'd on all Sides, except the West. The Market was much more considerable formerly than now; and its chief Subsistence rises only from its good Harbour, which frequently receives the Coal-fleet from Newcastle, in bad Weather.

We turn'd from hence to the Left North-west, and came to Durham next, which is a fine City, pretty large, compact, well-contriv'd, and well situated, high, pleasant, and healthy, and surrounded almost with the River Were, over which are two good Stone Bridges. The Castle stands on an Eminence, with which the River incloses the City; as the Castle does also the Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, and the fine Houses of the Clergy, where they live in great Splendor and Magnificence. All Sorts of Provisions and other Necessaries and Conveniencies for Life, are very cheap, as well as very good, here, tho' it has but one weekly Market, which is kept in a large spacious Area in the Town. It is govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, and Sheriffs, and has six Parish Churches, besides the Cathedral, which is very noble and magnificent, adorn'd with a high Tower, which rises from the Midst of it, and two Spires at the West End.

Thus from a poor Oratory of wreathen Wands and Hurdles, with which the indigent Monks of Landisfarn had first built it, it is become one of the most sumptuous Buildings of the Kind in England,

and was erected out of the Offerings which were made by the superstitious Multitude at the Shrine of St. Cuthbert. And yet, notwithstanding the Resi|dence of so many dignified Protestant Clergy, 'tis said, there are still great Numbers of Roman Catho|licks in this City.

I need not tell you, that the Bishop of Durham is a Temporal Prince, that he keeps a Court of Equity, and also Courts of Justice in ordinary Causes, within himself. He is still Earl of Sadberg, and takes Place as Bishop immediately after the Bishop of London. As the Country about Rome is called St. Peter's Pa|trimony, so that about Durham is St. Cuthbert's, to whom the Church is dedicated, as 'tis said it was founded by the Monks of Landisfarn. David King of Scots laying all Waste with Fire and Sword, while King Edward III. was at Calais, Zouch, the valiant Bishop, fought the Scots at Nevil's Cross, where they were cut in Pieces, and their King taken Prisoner. He was the sixth Bishop of Landisfarn, or Holy Island, from whence the See was removed hither.

The Bishoprick is esteemed one of the best in Eng|land; and the Prebends, and other Church Livings, in the Gift of the Bishop, are the richest in the Kingdom. They told me there, that the Bishop had thirteen Livings in his Gift, from 300l. to 800l. a Year; and the Living of the little Town of Sedg|field, a few Miles South of the City, is said to be worth 700l. a Year, besides the small Tythes, which maintain a Curate, or might do so.

This Church is very rich: they have excellent Musick. The old Vestments, which the Clergy be|fore the Reformation wore, are still us'd on Sundays and other Holy-days, by the Residents. They are so rich with Embroidery and emboss'd Work of Silver, as must needs make it uneasy for the Wearers to sustain. In this Cathedral lies the Body of the V••••••rable Bede.

One of the old Bishops of Durham purchased for a round Sum of Money all the Rights of the Pala|tinate, and other Jurisdiction in this County from King Richard I. and, by his last Will, left them to the succeeding Bishops. But King Henry VIII. by Act of Parliament, greatly abridged the Temporal Power and Jurisdiction of this Bishoprick; and King Edward VI. (or rather his Uncle Somerset) by Act of Parliament dissolved the Bishoprick intirely; but it was restored by Queen Mary. Neither City nor County ever sent Members to the House of Commons, till the Vacancy of the See, by the Death of Bishop Cosins, Anno 1672; and since they return each of them Two, which is all that the County send.

We took a Trip from Durham, South, to see Bishops Auckland, which is a Market-town, pleasantly seated upon a Hill, in a very good Air, and is noted for a most noble Palace, beautified with Turrets, be|longing to the Bishop, and also a fine Chapel, founded and built by Bishop Cosins, who re-edified the Palace, after the Enthusiastick Rage of the late Civil Wars had ruin'd it.

Here we turn'd West, and following the Were, pass'd thro' Wolsingham, a little Town of no Note, to Stanhop, a little Town also, which had once a Market, but 'tis now discontinued. It is only noted for a very good Park, which lies near it, where King Edward III. besieging the Scots in their Camp, had like to have been surpris'd in his Tent by one Douglas, an adventurous Scot, had not the King's Chaplain defended him with the Loss of his own Life.

These Western Parts of the County, all to the upper Part of it, are very hilly and mountainous, and the Fields near them look naked and barren; but the Iron Mines they produce within their Bowels, make ample Amends for the Barrenness of the Surface.

We return'd from these inhospitable Parts to Durham; from whence we kept the common Road to Chester in the Street, an old, dirty, thoroughfare Town, void of all Remains of the Greatness, which Antiquaries say were to be seen there, when it was a Roman Colony. Here is a Stone Bridge, but in|stead of riding over it, we rode under it, thro' one of the Arches, the Stream not being over the Horses Hoofs in Water; yet, on Inquiry, we found, that sometimes they have Use enough for it.

Lumley-castle, belonging to the Earl of Scarbo|rough, is just on the other Side of the Road, as you pass between Durham and Chester, pleasantly seated in a fine Park, near the East Bank of the River Were. The Park, besides the Pleasantness of it, has this much more valuable Circumstance to recom|mend it, that it is full of excellent Veins of the best Coal in the Country (for the Lumley Coals are known for their Goodness at London, as well as there). This, with a sometimes navigable River just at hand, by which the Coals are carried down to Sunderland to the Ships, makes Lumley Park an inexhaustible Treasure to the Family.

They tell us, that King James I. lodged in this Castle, at his Entrance into England to take Posses|sion of the Throne; and seeing a fine Picture of the antient Pedigree of the Family, which carried it very far beyond what his Majesty thought credible, turned this good Jest upon it to the Bishop of Dur|ham, who shewed it him, That indeed he did not know, that Adam's Surname was Lumley, before.

Here we turned from the Road, and crossing the Were, followed it East to Sunderland, a Corporate Sea-port Town in the County Palatine of Durham, populous and well-built, with a very handsome Church in it; and tho' the River be not large, it carries on a great Trade in Coals, at high Water.

It is a Peninsula, almost surrounded by the Sea. It has a very fine Church; and its Rector, the Rev. and worthy Mr. Daniel Newcome, was the principal Architect in the building of it. This Gentleman spent the greatest Part of his Income in beautifying and adorning it. He began by building a Dome, adjoining to the East-end, into which he removed the Altar, placing it under a Canopy of inlaid Work, supported in Front by Two fluted Pillars of the Corinthian Order, with proper Capitals. His Bene|volence and Charity were equally extensive to all who were proper Objects of them; and he delighted in doing Good. This worthy Man, however, liv'd not to see his new Works to the Church quite com|pleted, dying very much lamented, on 5 Jan. 1738.

The Eastern Side of the County, along the Sea Coast, and indeed the Southern Side, along the Banks of the Teis, is very fertile and delightful, thick of little Towns and Villages, which are very populous; and as the Mountains on the West pro|duce Iron Mines, this Side is full of those of Coals, which lie so very near the Surface of the Ground, that the Cart Wheels press into them.

And indeed from Durham, the Road to Newcastle gives a View of the inexhausted Store of Coals and Coal Pits, from whence not London only, but all the South Part of England is continually supplied; and tho' at London, when we see the prodigious Fleets of Ships which come constantly in with Coals, we are apt to wonder how it is possible for them to be supplied, and that they do not bring the whole Coal Country away; yet, when in this Country we see the prodigious Heaps, I might say Mountains of Coals, which are dug up at every Pit, and how many of those Pits there are, we are filled with equal Wonder to consider where the People should live that consume them.

At the Mouth of the Tyne, which parts Durham from Northumberland, stands the Village of Sheals, the Station of the Sea Coal Fleets, where there have been some Marks of Roman Antiquity discovered not many Years since.

Yarrow, noted for the Birth-place of the Venerable Bede, stands a little higher upon the same River; and upon the other Side of the Tyne stands Gates|head, the Receptacle of the Coal-pit Men, just over-against Newcastle; and is supposed to have been antiently Part of it, tho' divided by the River, over which there is a stately Stone-bridge, with an Iron|gate in the Middle, which serves as a Boundary be|tween the Bishoprick and the County of Northum|berland.

The Air in this Bishoprick is pretty cold and piercing; and 'tis well for the Poor, that Nature has supplied them so abundantly with Fuel for Firing; and indeed all other Provisions and Necessaries are very cheap here. It seems as if the whole County had been originally appropriated to Religion and War; for it is full of the Ruins of Religious Houses and Castles.

We are now entering into the large and exten|sive County of Northumberland, which for many Ages was the Bone of Contention, and Seat of War between England and Scotland.

Newcastle is a large and exceeding populous Town, under the Government of a Mayor, Aldermen, Recorder, &c. and is situate between the Wall of Severus and the Tyne, which becomes here a fine deep and noble River, insomuch that Ships of a middling Burden may come safely up to the very Town, tho' the large Colliery Ships are station'd at Sheals. It may be consider'd as divided into Two Parts, whereof Gateshead, before spoken of on Dur|ham

Side, is one. They are both joined by the Bridge, which consists of Seven Arches, as large, at least, as those of London Bridge, and support a Street of Houses, as that does.

The Liberty of the Town, as it is a Corporation, extends no farther than the Gate upon the Bridge; which, some Years since, was the Preservation of it, by stopping a terrible Fire, that otherwise had, per|haps, burnt the whole Street of Houses on the City Side of the Bridge, as it did those beyond it. On the East Side of this Gate the Arms of the Bishop of Durham are carved, as those of the Town of Newcastle are on the West Side.

There is also a very noble Exchange here; and the Wall of the Town runs parallel from it with the River, leaving a spacious Piece of Ground before it between the Water and the Wall; which being well wharfed up, and faced with Free-stone, makes the longest and largest Quay for landing and lading Goods, that is to be seen in England, except that at Yarmouth in Norfolk, it being much longer than that at Bristol.

Here is a large Hospital built by Contribution of the Keel Men, by way of Friendly Society, for the Maintenance of the Poor of their Fraternity, and which, had it not met with Discouragements from those who ought rather to have assisted so good a Work, might have been a noble Provision for that numerous and laborious People. The Keel Men are those who manage the Lighters, which they call Keels, by which the Coals are taken from the Staiths, or Wharfs, and carried on board the Ships at Sheals to load them for London.

Here are several large publick Buildings also; par|ticularly a House of State for the Mayor of the Town (for the Time being) to remove to, and dwell in during his Mayoralty. Here is also a Hall

for the Surgeons to meet in, where they have Two Skeletons of human Bodies, one a Man, and the other a Woman, and some other Rarities.

And since this Work went to the Press, I am inform'd, that the Rev. Dr. Robert Thomlinson, Rector of Whickham in the County of Durham, and Prebendary of St. Paul's, gave to this Corporation a valuable Collection of Books, consisting of upwards of 6000 Volumes; and also settled a Rent-charge of Five Pounds per Annum for ever, for buying new Books. And Walter Blackett, Esq one of their Representatives in Parliament, has, at his own Ex|pence, built a handsome Fabrick for the Reception of those Books, and settled in Mortmain a Rent-charge of 25l. per Annum for ever for a Librarian.

The Town is defended by an exceeding strong Wall, wherein are Seven Gates, and as many Tur|rets, The Castle, tho' old and ruinous, overlooks the whole Town. The worst is, that the Situation of the Town b••ing on the Declivity of Two high Hills, and the Buildings being very close and old, render it incommodious, to which the Smoke of the Coals contributes not a little; and consequently excludes such who seek a Residence of Pleasure: but then as the River which runs between the Two Hills, makes it a Place of great Trade and Business, that Inconvenience is abundantly recompensed.

They have Two Articles of Trade here, which are particularly owing to the Coals, viz. Glass|houses and Salt-pans; the first are in the Town, the last are at Sheals, Seven Miles below it; but their Coals are brought chiefly from the Town. Prodi|gious are the Quantities of Coals which those Salt Works consume; and the Fires make such a Smoke, that we saw it ascend in huge Clouds over the Hills, Four Miles before we came to Durham, which is at least 16 Miles from the Place. In short, the

Town is almost surrounded with Coal-pits; and London is reckoned to take off upwards of 600,000 Chaldrons yearly, at Thirty-six Bushels to the Chal|dron.

Here I met with a Remark which was quite new to me, and will be so, I suppose, to many others. You well know, we receive at London every Year a great Quantity of Salmon pickled or cured, and sent up in the Pickle in Kits or Tubs, which we call Newcastle Salmon. In consequence of this, when I came to Newcastle, I expected to see great Plenty of Salmon there; but was surprised to find it, on the contrary, so scarce, that a good large fresh Salmon was not to be had under Five or Six Shillings. Upon Inquiry I learnt, that really this Salmon, which we call Newcastle Salmon, is taken as far off as the Tweed, which is near 50 Miles further, and is brought by Land on Horses to Sheals, where it is cured, pickled, and sent to London, as above; so that it is more properly Berwick Salmon than Newcastle.

There is but one Parochial Church, called St. Ni|colas, built by St. David, King of Scotland, but several Chapels as large as Churches. Here are like|wise some Meeting-houses, and a great many well-endowed Charity-schools. It is not only inriched by the Coal Trade, but there are also very considerable Merchants in it, who carry on Traffick to divers Parts of the World, especially to Holland, Ham|burgh, Norway, and the Baltick.

They build Ships here to Perfection as to Strength and Firmness, and to bear the Sea, as the Coal Trade requires. This gives an Addition to the Merchants Business, it requiring a Supply of all Sorts of Naval Stores to fit out those Ships.

Here is also a considerable Manufacture of Hard Ware, or Wrought Iron, of late Years erected after the manner of Sheffield, which is very helpful for

imploying the Poor, of which the Town has always a prodigious Number.

This Town was taken and plundered by the Scots in the Beginning of the late Civil Wars; and here it was, (to their eternal Reproach be it remem|ber'd) that the Scots perfidiously sold their King for 2000l. in hand, and Security for 2000l. more, after he had in Confidence intrusted himself in their Hands, and without any Conditions made for him: a Transaction equally detestable with that of cutting off his Head; or more, if possible, as those who did the last were his avow'd and implacable Enemies, whereas the others received him as his Friends and Protectors.

On the 12th of January, 1738-9, Part of the antient Gate, leading to the Castle-Garth, fell down; and tho' several Shops joined to it, yet nobody receiv'd any Hurt.

The Town was formerly fortify'd with a great Castle, the Walls of which are still standing. Its antient Name was Monk-Chester; but on the build|ing of a new Castle in the Time of William the Conqueror, it obtain'd its present Name. It enjoys great Privileges by the Favour of Queen Elizabeth, and being one of those which are called County-towns, governs itself independently of the Lord Lieutenant.

West from Newcastle lies the Bailiwick-Town of Hexham, (the Axelodunum of the Romans) a Pass upon the Tyne, famous, or rather infamous, for having the first Blood drawn near it in the late Civil War; and where a Detachment of English, tho' advantageously posted, were scandalously defeated by the Scots, who gain'd the Pass, fought thro' the River, and killed about 400 Men, the rest basely running away; after which, the Town of New|castle was as easily seized upon, without striking a Stroke.

The Country round this Town is vulgarly called Hexhamshire. It was formerly the Seat of a Bishop, till Henry VIII. annexed it to that of Durham. Its Cathedral was stately, before the Scots ruin'd the greatest Part of it in one of their Excursions. On the other Side of the Tyne from Hexhamshire, you see a House very beautifully situated, belonging to the Family of Errington, called Bifront; and within Two Miles of Hexham is a fine House built by the late unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, called Dil|ston.

I was greatly tempted here to trace the famous Wall built by the Romans, or rather rebuilt by them, from hence to Carlisle, the Particulats of which, and the Remains of Antiquity seen upon it, our Histories are full of. I went to several Places in the Fields thro' which it passed, where I saw the Re|mains of it, some almost lost, and some very visi|ble. But of this more in another Place.

Northumberland is a long coasting County, lying chiefly on the Sea to the East, and bounded by the Mountains of Stainmore on the West, which are in some Places inaccessible, but in many others unpassable.

Here is abundant Business for an Antiquary; every Place shews you ruined Castles, Roman Altars, In|scriptions, Monuments of Battles, of Heroes killed, Armies routed, and the like. The Towns of Mor|peth, Alnwick, Warkworth, Tickill, and many others, shew their old Castles, and some of them still in tolerable Repair, Alnwick in particular, and Warkworth; others, as Bambrough, Norham, Chil|lingham, Horton, Dunstar, Wark, and a great many more, are sunk in their own Ruins, by mere Length of Time.

We had Cheviot Hills so plain in view, that we could not but inquire of the Inhabitants every-where, whether they had heard of the Fight at Chevy-Chace:

they not only told us they had heard of it, but had all the Account of it at their Fingers End; where|upon taking a Guide at Wooller, a small Town, lying, as it were, under the Hills, he led us on to|ward the Top of the Hill; for, by the way, altho' there are many Hills and Reachings for many Miles, which bear the Name of Cheviot Hills, yet there is one of them a great deal higher than the rest, which, at a Distance, looks like the Pico-Teneriffe in the Ca|naries, and is so high, that it is plainly seen from the Rosemary Top in the East-Riding of Yorkshire, which is near 60 Miles off.

We were preparing to clamber up this Hill on Foot, when our Guide told us, he would find a Way for us to get up on Horse-back. He then very artfully led us round to a Part of the Hill, where, in the Winter-season, great Streams of Water come pouring down from it in several Cha|nels, which were pretty broad, and over-grown on each Side with Alder-trees so close and thick, that we rode under them as in an Arbour. In one of these Chanels we mounted the Hill, as Besiegers approach a fortified Town by Trenches, and were got a great way up, before we were well aware of it; for we were already so far advanced, that we could see some of the Hills, which before we thought very high, lying under us, as if they were a Part of the Plain below. As we mounted higher, we found the Hill steeper than at first; and our Horses being very much fatigu'd, we alighted, and proceeded on Foot. When we had gain'd the Top, we were agreeably surprised to see a smooth and pleasant Plain half a Mile in Diameter, with a large Pond in the middle of it; for we had a Notion, when at Bottom, that the Hill narrow'd to a Point, and that when we came to the Top, we should be as upon a Pinacle, with a Precipice every Way round us.

The Day, to our great Satisfaction, happen'd to be very calm, and so clear, that we could plainly see the Smoke of the Salt-pans at Sheals, at the Mouth of the Tyne, which was about 40 Miles South from this. We saw likewise several Hills, which our Guide told us were in England, and others in the West of Scotland, the Names of which I have forgot. Eastward we saw Berwick, and to the North the Hills called Soutra Hills, which are in Sight of Edinburgh. In short, we had a surprizing View of the united Kingdom; and tho' all the Country round us looked very well, yet, it must be owned, the Scots Side seemed the pleasantest, and had the best Ground.

Satisfied with this Prospect, and not thinking our Time or Pains ill bestowed, we came down the Hill by the same Rout we went up. Our Guide after|wards carried us to a single House, called Wooller Haugh-head, a much better Inn than we expected to meet with thereabouts.

At this Inn, we inquired after the Particulars of the famous Story of Chevy Chase, and found that the People had the following Notion of it; That it was an Inroad of the Earl of Douglas into England, in order to ravage, burn, and plunder the Country, as was usual in those Days: That Piercy, Earl of Northumberland, march'd with his Friends and Fol|lowers, to meet the Scots; both Parties encounter'd at the Foot of Cheviot Hills, and a bloody Battle ensued, wherein both the Earls were slain, despe|rately fighting at the Head of their Troops; and so many fell on both Sides, that it could not be deter|min'd which had the Victory.

They shewed us the Place where this Battle was fought, which, if their Tradition does not mislead them, is on the Side of the Hill near the Road. It is said, the Scots were mostly Horse, and therefore the English Archers placed themselves on the Side of

a steep Ascent, that they might not be broken in upon by them. The Spots of Ground where the Two Earls are said to have fallen, are distinguished by Two Stones to this Day. The Fight the Scots call the Battle of Otterburn, and make a very fa|mous Story of it, to the Honour of their Nation.

About Six or Seven Miles from hence we saw the ever memorable Flodden-field, where James IV. King of Scotland, invading England with a great Army, when Henry VIII. was engaged abroad in the Siege of Tournay, was met by the gallant Earl of Surrey, in which, after a bloody Battle, the Scots were totally defeated, and their King, fighting vali|antly at the Head of his Nobility, was slain.

The River Till, which our Historians call a deep and swift River, where many of the Scots were drown'd in their Flight, seemed to me every-where passable with great Ease; but perhaps it might at that time be swelled with some sudden Rain, which the Historians ought to have taken notice of.

I must not quit Northumberland without taking notice, that the Natives of this Country, of the ancient original Race or Families, are distinguished by a Shibboleth upon their Tongues in pronouncing the Letter R, which they cannot utter without a hollow Jarring in the Throat, by which they are as plainly known, as a Foreigner is in pronouncing the Th: this they call the Northumberland R, or Wharle; and the Natives value themselves upon that Imper|fection, because, forsooth, it shews the Antiquity of their Blood.

From hence lay a Road into Scotland, by the Town of Kelso, which I afterwards passed thro'; but at present inclining to see Berwick upon Tweed, we turned to the West, and visited that old Fron|tier, where is a fine Bridge over the Tweed, built by Queen Elizabeth; a noble, stately Work, con|sisting of 16 Arches, and joining, as may be said,

the Two Kingdoms. The chief Trade I found here was in Corn and Salmon.

I am now on the Borders of Scotland, and must call to mind, that I have not yet gone over the Western Coast of England, viz. Lancaster, West|morland, and Cumberland.

I must needs own, that since I entered upon the View of these Northern Counties, I have many times regretted, that my Limits forbid me often to decline the delightful View of Antiquity, of which there is so great and so surprizing a Variety every Day discovered; for the religious, as well as military Re|mains of the Britons, Romans, Saxons, and Nor|mans, like Wounds hastily healed up, appear pre|sently when the Callus, which was spread over them, is removed; and though the Earth has defaced the Figures and Inscriptions upon most of these Curio|sities, yet they are beautiful, even in their Decay; and the venerable Face of Antiquity has something so pleasing, so surprising, so satisfactory in it, espe|cially to those who have, with any Attention, read the Histories of past Ages, that I know nothing which renders Travelling more pleasant and more agreeable.

The Description of the other Three Counties will be the Subject of my next Letter. Mean time, I am,

SIR,

Your most humble Servant.