A tour thro' the whole island of Great Britain: Divided into circuits or journeys. Giving a particular and entertaining account of whatever is curious, and worth observation; ... By a gentleman. ... [pt.2]

LETTER VII. CONTAINING A Description of Part of Cheshire, North|amptonshire, and Leicestershire.

SIR,

_I Continued at Chester for some time, except that I made two or three Ex|cursions into the neighbouring Country, and particularly into that Part of Shrop|shire which I had not view'd as I went; as also into the North, and North-west Parts of Cheshire. But I should first acquaint you, that Malpas, through which I came from Wales, is situate on a high Hill, and was formerly strengthened by a Castle, which is now in Ruins. The Church is a stately Building, and stands on the most eminent Part of the Town: It has 2 Rectors, who do Duty alternately. The Town consists of 3 Streets, and is well pav'd; has a good Market, a Grammar-School, and an Hospital.

The first Trip I made, was into the Cestria Cher|sonesus, as I think we may properly call it: It is bounded by the two great Firths, or Arms of the Sea,

the one call'd the Mouth of the Dee, and the other of the two Rivers Mersey and Weaver, which form it into a Peninsula. It is about 16 Miles long, 6 or 7 over, and has not one Market Town in it, tho' it is exceeding rich and fertile; occasion'd possibly by the Neighbourhood of two such great Towns, as Chester and Liverpool.

Going down from Chester, by the Rhoodee, as they call it, that is, the Marshes of the River Dee, and coasting the River after it is grown broader than the Marshes, the first Place of any Note which we come to, is Nesson, where, in the late Irish War, most of the Troops embark'd for that grand Ex|pedition: From hence the Vessels go away to High-lake, where they ride safe in their Way, as the Ships from London lie in the Downs, till the Wind pre|sents for their respective Voyages.

But to return to Chester. It is a fine old City and Colony of the Romans; and many Antiquities have been found in it. It has four Churches beside the Cathedral, which is a Pile venerable for Antiquity, but in no extraordinary Condition. There are Sha|dows of many Pictures on the Wall, but defac'd. At the West End, in Niches are some Images of the Earls Palatine of Chester. The adjoining Abbey is quite ruin'd. The Walls round the City are kept in very good Repair, at the Charge of the Corpo|ration, and afford a pleasant, airy Walk. The Ex|change is a neat Building, supported by Columns 13 Feet high, of one Stone each. Over it is the City-hall, a well-contrived Court of Judicature. The Castle was formerly the Palace, where the Earls assembled their Parliaments, and enacted Laws inde|pendent of the Kings of England, determining all Causes themselves. It has always a Garrison kept in it. The Piazza's or Rows, as they call them, do not in my Opinion, add any thing to the Beauty of the City; but, on the contrary, serve to make it look

both old and indifferent. These Rows are certain long Galleries, up one Pair of Stairs, which run along the Side of the Streets, before all the Houses, tho' joined to them, and, as is pretended, they are to keep the People dry in walking along. This they do indeed effectually, but then they take away all the View of the Houses from the Street, nor can a Stranger, that was to ride thro' Chester, see any Shops in the City; besides, they make the Shops themselves dark, and the Way in them is dark, dirty, and un|even.

The best Ornament of the City is, that the Streets are very broad and fair, and run thro' the whole City in strait Lines, crossing in the middle of it as at Chichester: The Walls afford a very pleasant Walk, as I have said, round the City, and within the Battlements, from whence you may see the cir|cumjacent Country, and particularly on the Side of the Rhoodee, which is a fine large low Green, on the Bank of the Dee, which in Winter is often under Water by the Inundations of the River. Be|yond the Rhoodee, may be seen from the Walls of Chester the County of Flint, and the Mountains of Wales.

The Castle is a good firm Building, and strong, tho' not fortify'd with many Outworks: There is always a good Garrison kept in it. 'Tis said this Castle was built, or at least repair'd, by Hugh Lupus, the famous Earl of Chester, Nephew to William the Conqueror, as was also the Church; the Body of whom was lately (Anno 1723) discover'd, as is supposed, in an old ruinous Building called, The Chapter-house.

It was first wrapp'd in Leather, and then inclos'd in a Stone Coffin. The Skull and all the Bones were very fresh, and in their proper Position; and, what is more remarkable, the String which ty'd the Ankles together, was whole and intire, altho' it was then upwards of 650 Years since the Interrment.

Chester is but a modern Bishoprick, being so made in the Year 1541. when King Henry VIII. di|vided it from Lichfield. They tell us, that King Edgar, who conquer'd all this Part of Britain, and was rowed up the Dee in his Royal Barge by Seven, or, as some say, Eight Kings, himself steering the Helm, founded the great Church, which Lupus finish'd and endow'd.

Here is a noble Stone Bridge over the Dee, very high and strong built, and 'tis needful it should be so; for the Dee is a most furious Stream at some Seasons, and brings a vast Weight of Water with it from the Mountains of Wales.

Chester has long given Title of Earl to the Prince of Wales, eldest Son of the King.

Chester was formerly an Harbour for Shipping; but the Sea had long ago withdrawn itself; and the River Dee was so choaked up, that Vessels of Bur|den could not come within some Miles of it; so that an Act of Parliament passed in the Year 1732, for rendering it navigable. And in Pursuance thereof, the Undertakers, raised a Sum of 47,830l. which they have expended in cutting and perfecting a new Chanel for the River Dee, of near Ten Miles in Length, and in making proper Dams and Sluices, into which they have turned the said River; so that it is actually navigable at this Time for Ships and Vessels of considerable Burdens to the Quay, or Key, of Chester, where they load and unload Goods and Merchandize. This Success encourag'd the Un|dertakers to apply to Parliament (1740-1), for further Powers to complete the same, and for uniting the said Undertakers into a Company for that laud|able Purpose.

This County, though so remote from London, is one of those which contributes much to its Support, as well as to that of several other Parts of England, by its excellent Cheese, which they make here in

such Quantities, that, as I am told from very good Authority, the City of London only takes off 14000 Tons every Year; besides vast Quantities which they send to Bristol and York, and also to Scotland and Ireland; so that the Quantity of Cheese made here, must be prodigiously great. Indeed, the whole County is imploy'd in it, and Part of its Neigh|bourhood too; for though it goes by the Name of Cheshire Cheese, yet great Quantities of it are made in such Parts of Shropshire, Staffordshire, and Lan|cashire, as border upon Cheshire.

The Soil is extraordinarily good, and the Grass has a peculiar Richness in it, which disposes the Kine to give a great Quantity of Milk, which is very sweet and good; and this Cheese Manufacture increases every Day, raises the Value of the Lands, and en|courages the Farmers to keep vast Stocks of Cows; which of themselves contribute to improve and en|rich the Land.

While we were station'd, as I may say, at Chester, I made a Trip to several Places round about it. And particularly to the fine old Seat of the Lord Dela|mere, and the spacious Forest which gives Title to that noble Family. They say here was formerly an old City, now called the Chamber on the Forest, pro|bably some Fort or Camp to secure the Road. From hence is so fine a Prospect of the Welsh Mountains, that I never before beheld such a noble Scene of Nature. Beeston-Castle is on our left, built upon a Precipice. This Forest is noted for great Plenty of Red and Fallow Deer, and is a great Relief for Fish, Fowl, and Turf, to the neighbouring Towns, whereof there are a great many small ones about this Forest, and thro' the upper Part of it the Weaver takes its Course. The chief Town hereabout is Fr••desham, famous formerly for a Castle, and the Seat of the Family of the Savages, which however is but a mean Market-town. Near this Place is also

the famous Seat of Rock-Savage, built on the Ascent of an Hill belonging to the same Family, whereof the last was the late Earl Rivers.

On the South Side of the Park stands Beeston-Castle, upon an Hill environ'd with Mountains, and yet overlooks almost the whole County. It is very strong, covers a great Extent of Ground, and is adorn'd with many Towers. It gives Name to an antient Family in this County.

From Chester we kept directly on East to Middle|wich, a large Market-town, with a spacious Church, but chiefly noted for making Salt; where are Two excellent Brine-seeths.

We followed the Weaver directly North to North|wich also famous for Brine-springs, and for making great Quantities of the finest Salt by boiling the Water in large iron Pans of small Depth. As fast as the Salt crystallizes, they rake it out, and dry it in wicker Baskets of a conick Form. The Duty it brings in is very considerable.

Within these Fifty Years, on the South-side of the Town, they discover'd a great many Mines of Rock-salt, which they continually dig up, and send in great Lumps to the maritime Ports, where it is dissolv'd, and made into eating Salt. We were let down by a Bucket 150 Feet deep to the Bottom of the Salt Quarry, a most pleasant subterraneous Pro|spect, looking like a Cathedral supported by Rows of Pillars, and Roof of Crystal, all of the same Rock, transparent and glittering from the numerous Candles of the Workmen, labouring with their Steel Pick-axes in digging it away. This Rock-work extends to several Acres.

There is a good Church at Northwich, with a fine Roof, and semicircular Choir.

At Lawton-yates they bore 60 Yards deep for the Salt Spring; at Hassal 47; at Wheelock 18; about Middlewich less; at Northwich it rises to open Day;

which seems to intimate, that the salt Spring runs be|tween Layers of the Earth in an horizontal Line. Upon Boring, it rises with great Impetuosity, so that the Workmen have scarce Time to get out of the Wells. This is all along the Side of a Brook that comes from a remarkable Hill called Mawcop, upon the Edge of Staffordshire; so that the Ground rises above the true Level in the mentioned Proportion.

From Northwich we travell'd North-east, and came to Knutsford, a good Town, and finely situated. A Brook runs thro' it, and divides it into two. It has a Market and Town-house, and a pretty good Pa|rochial Church.

Altringham and Stockport, Two small Market-towns, lie higher up Northward, the first near, and the other upon the Borders of Lancashire; and hear|ing of nothing remarkable in them, we turned South-east from Knutsford to Macclesfield, which they call in this County Maxfield.

Macclesfield is situate in the Forest of the same Name, a Town of great Antiquity, and very fair and spacious. 'Tis under the Government of a Mayor, and enjoys many particular Privileges by virtue of the Court and Liberties of the Forest. It has a good Church with a high Spire Steeple, and a College adjoining to it, in which are buried a great many of the Savages: and here is also a good Free-school, and a thriving Manufacture of Buttons.

From hence we veer'd about, and came South-west to Congleton, near the Borders of Staffordshire, a fair Mayor-town and well-water'd on all Sides. It has Two Churches, and is noted for a good Trade in Gloves.

We then came to the Market-town of Sandbach, which is delightfully situated on a Branch of the Weaver. It has a fair Church, and in the Market-place stand Two Crosses of Stone, with the History

of Christ's Passion ingraven on them. The Ale here is deservedly famed.

From Sandbach we went on Southward, and came to the great London Road at Namptwich, which stands upon it. This Town is well-built, and the Streets look fair, having a great many Gentlemens Houses in them. The Church is a noble Edifice in the Form of a Cross, with the Steeple rising from the Middle; but the Maintenance of the Minister is mean and pitiful. The Inhabitants are rich, and carry on a good Trade in most sort of Commodities, but principally in making Salt and Cheese, the latter exceeding all that is made in the County, as the Soil this Way is esteemed the best, and, as 'tis said, was called by King Edward I. the Vale Royal.

Thus having made my Circuit round the County, I shall go from hence South to Whitchurch in Shrop|shire. But I must first note two things of Cheshire: 1. That there is no Part of England, where there are equal Numbers of Gentry, of such antient and noble Extraction: Mr. Camden is very particular in their Names and Descents, to whom therefore I must refer. 2. That it is a County Palatine, and has been so for many Ages, and its Government is distinct from any other, and very particular; it is administred by a Chamberlain, a Judge Special, who is call'd Chief Justice of Chester, two Barons of the Exchequer, three Sergeants at Law, a Sheriff, an At|torney, an Escheator, and all proper and usual sub|ordinate Officers; and the Jurisdiction of all these Offices is kept up, and preserv'd very strictly; only we are to note, that the Judge Special, as he is call'd, tries only civil Causes, not criminal, which are left to the ordinary Judges of England, who go the Cir|cuits here, as in other Places.

Whitchurch is a pleasant, large, and populous Town, and has a very good Church, in which is the famous Monument of the great Talbot, first E. of Shrewsbury,

who was call'd in his Time the English ACHILLES, and who was so renown'd in the Wars of France, that no Man in that Kingdom dared to encounter him single-handed. He had ingraven on one Side of his Sword, Sum Talboti, and on the Reverse, Pro vincere inimicos meos. His Epitaph is as follows, in capital Letters:

ORATE PRO ANIMA PRAENOBILIS DO|MINI, DOMINI IOHANNIS TALBOTT, QUONDAM COMITIS SALOPIAE, DOMINI TALBOTT, DOMINI FURNIVALL, DO|MINI VERDON, DOMINI STRANGE DE BLACKMERE, ET MARESCHALLI FRAN|CIAE, QUI OBIIT IN BELLO APVD BVR|DEWS VII. IVLII MCCCCLIII.

This Town has a good Market, and a great many Gentry near it, whereof some are Roman-catho|licks. They tell us, that this Town, when King Charles I. remov'd his Standard from Nottingham to Shrewsbury, raised a whole Regiment for his Service.

From hence we turn'd South, and passing by Wem, the Title given by King James II. to his Lord Chan|cellor Jefferies, thence we came to Elsmere, which gives Title of Baron to the Duke of Bridg|water, and is famous for a great Lake or Mere, which gives the Town its Name, and which the People pretend has in some Places no Bottom. This Place is remarkable for good Fish.

And further on West, on the Confines of Den|bighshire, stands Oswestry, a Bailiwick Market-town, famous formerly for the Sale of Welsh Cottons and Flanels, but now only for the last. It is inclosed with a Wall, and a Ditch, and fortified with a Castle, and has a good Church without the Gate covered with

Lead. From hence we came the same Night to Shrewsbury.

Shrewsbury is supposed to have been built out of the Ruins of the antient Uriconium. In the Reign of William the Conqueror, Roger Earl of Montgo|mery built a Castle here, on the North Side, and a stately Abbey, some Ruins of which are still to be seen. It is a beautiful, large, pleasant, populous, and rich Town; full of Gentry, and yet full of Trade too; for here likewise is a great Manufacture, as well of Flanel, as also of white Broad-cloth, which inriches all the Country round it.

The Severn in part surrounds this Town, just as the Thames does the Isle of Dogs; so that it makes the Form of an Horse-shoe. Over it are two fine Stone Bridges, upon one of which is built a very noble Gate, and, over the Arch of the Gate, the Statue of the great Llewellin, the Idol of the Welsh, and their last Prince of Wales.

This is really a Town of Mirth and Gallantry, something like Bury in Suffolk, or Durham in the North, but much bigger than either of them, or in|deed than both together.

Over the Market-house is kept a kind of Hall for the Manufactures, which are sold here weekly in very great Quantities; they speak all English in the Town, but on a Market-day you would think you were in Wales.

Here is the greatest Market, the greatest Plenty of good Provisions, and the cheapest that is to be met with in all the Western Part of England. The Severn supplies them here with excellent Salmon, but 'tis also brought in great Plenty from the Dee, which is not far off, and abounds with a very good Kind, and is generally larger than in the Severn. As an Ex|ample of the Cheapness of Provisions, we paid here, in a publick Inn, but a Groat a Night for Hay, and Sixpence a Peck for Oats, for our Horses, which is

cheaper than we found it in the cheapest Part of the North of England; all our other Provisions were in Proportion; and there is no doubt but the Cheap|ness of Provisions, joined to the Pleasantness and Healthiness of the Place, draws a great many Fami|lies hither, who love to live within the Compass of their Estates.

Mr. Camden calls it a City: and 'tis indeed equal to several good Cities in England, and superior to some. Near this Place was fought the bloody Battle between Henry Hotspur, and Henry IV. King of England, in which the former was kill'd, and all his Army overthrown, and the Place is called Battle|field to this Day.

Here are Five Churches, Two of them with lofty Spires. St. Chad's, and St. Mary's, are said to be antiently collegiate. There are abundance of antient Monuments in them all, which I have not room to mention.

This Town will for ever be famous for the Re|ception it gave to King Charles I. who, after setting up his Standard at Nottingham, and finding no En|couragement there, remov'd to Shrewsbury, being in|vited by the Gentry of the Town and Country round, where he was receiv'd with such a general Affection, and hearty Zeal, that his Majesty recover'd him|self from the Discouragement of his first Step at Nottingham, and raised and compleated a strong Army in less Time than could be imagin'd; insomuch that, to the Surprize of the Parliament, and indeed of all the World, he was in the Field before them, and advanced upon them so fast, that he met them Two-thirds onward of his Way to London, and gave them Battle at Edge-hill, near Banbury.

But the Fate of the War turning afterwards against the King, the Weight of it fell heavy upon this Town, and almost ruin'd it.

But they are now fully recover'd, and it is one of the most flourishing Towns in England. The Walls and Gates are yet standing, but useless; and the old Castle is gone to Ruin, as is the Case of almost all the old Castles in England.

It should not be forgotten, that notwithstanding the Healthiness of the Place, here broke out first that unaccountable Plague, call'd, The Sweating Sickness, Anno 1551; which spread itself thro' the whole King|dom, and afterwards into several foreign Nations.

Here is a good Free-school, the most considerable in this Part of England; built and endow'd by Q. Elizabeth, with a very sufficient Maintenance for a Chief or Head-Master, and Three Under-Masters or Ushers. The Buildings are very spacious, and particularly the Library, which has a great many Books in it. The School-masters have also very handsome Houses to dwell in; so that the whole has the Face of a College.

There was a fine School here before, erected by the Town's-people, and maintain'd several Years by their Contribution. But the Queen took the Matter into her own Hands, and built the whole Fabrick new from the Ground, endowing it liberally out of her own Royal Bounty.

Here I was shew'd a very visible and remarkable Appearance of the great antient Road or Way call'd Watling-street, which comes from London to this Town, and goes on from hence to the utmost Coast of Wales. Remains of a Stone Bridge are to be seen in the Bottom of the River, when the Water is low. This Road is raised a good Height above the Soil, and so strait, that upon an Eminence you may see it Ten or Fifteen Miles before you, and as much be|hind, over many Hill-tops answering one the other as a Vista of Trees.

We lodg'd at an Inn called Ivesey-bank, on the Borders between Staffordshire and Shropshire. About

a Mile off in a large Wood stands Boscobel-house, or White-Ladies, as some call it, where the Pendrils lived, who preserved King Charles II. after Worcester Battle, and famous for the Royal Oak. The Grand|daughter of that William Pendril still liv'd in the House, when I was there. The Floor of the Gar|ret, which is a Popish Chapel, (formerly a Nunnery in Possession of the Family of Cooksey) being matted, prevents any Suspicion of a little Cavity with a Trap|door over the Stair-case where the King was hid. His Bed was artfully plac'd behind some Wainscot, that shut up very close. A Descendant of the Cook|seys still keeps the Gloves and Garters, which his Majesty left behind him.

The said Chapel is still standing, and has some painted Saints upon the Wall at one End.

A Bow-shot from the House, just by a Horse|track passing thro' the Wood, stood the Royal Oak, into which the King and Col. Carlos climbed, by means of the Hen-roost Ladder, when they thought it no longer safe to stay in the House, the Family reaching them Victuals with the Nut-hook. It hap|pened, as the People related it to us, that whilst the King and Colonel were in the Tree, a Party of the Enemy's Horse, sent to search the House, came whi|stling and talking along this Road; and when they were just under the Tree, an Owl flew out of a neighbouring Tree, and hover'd along the Ground, as if her Wings were broken, which the Soldiers merrily pursued.

The Tree is now inclos'd within a Brick Wall, the Inside whereof is cover'd with Laurel, of which we may say, as Ovid did of that of the Augustan Pa|lace,—Mediamque tuebere quercum. For the Oak is in the Middle, almost cut away by Travellers, whose Curiosity leads them to see it. Close by the Side grows a young thriving Plant from one of its Acorns.

After the Restoration, the King, reviewing the Place, no doubt, with very different Emotions to what he had when he was in it, gather'd some of the Acorns, and set them in St. James's Park or Gar|den, and us'd to water them himself. If we may judge of the Value the King put upon his Preserva|tion, and Royal Person, it was worth 200l. per Annum, and one should think a King, if worth any thing, worth that; for so much he gave to Pendril, and it now remains in the Family. Over the Door of the Inclosure is this Inscription cut in Marble:

Felicissimam arborem, quam in asylum potentissimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M. per quem reges regnant, hic crescere voluit, tam in perpetuam rei tantae memoriam, quam specimen firmae in reges fidei, muro cinctam posteris commendant Basilius & Jana Fitzherbert. Quercus amica Jovi.

That is,

Basil and Jane Fitzherbert recommend to Poste|rity this most fortunate Tree, which the All|gacious and Almighty God, by whom Kings reign, ordained here to grow, to be the Asylum of the most potent Prince, King Charles II. and have begirt it with a Wall, as well in per|petual Remembrance of so great an Event, as a Testimony of their firm Allegiance to Kings. — The Oak belov'd by Jove.

Ten Miles South-east of Shrewsbury stands Great Wenlock, an antient Borough and good Market-town. The noted Wreken-hill stands higher up, North of it, between the Watlingstreet and the Se|vern, and within a Mile of Wroxeter, the famous Roman Station. It ascends gradually from a pleasant level Ground, strikes out a pretty great Length, and is well adorn'd with Trees. 'Tis the highest

Ground in all the County, and gives a fine Prospect all around it.

Following the Watling street North, we came to a small Market-town call'd Wellington, of very little Note; and still keeping the Street, we arrived at New|port on the Borders of Staffordshire, a little Mar|ket-town, where is one of the noblest Foundations for a School in the whole Kingdom, endowed by one Adams, an Haberdasher of London, to the Value of 7000l. The School is 70 Feet long, 22 wide, and the same in Height, a Library, a House for both the Master and Usher, 60l. a Year to the first, and 30l. to the other, and a Garden to each House of an Acre, and Two Acres for the Boys to play in. Near it he has likewise built an Alms-house, and gave 550l. towards building the Town-house. Over the School-door is this Distich:

Scripsisti haeredem patriam, tibi quae dedit ortum: Scriberis ergo tuae, jure, pater patriae.

That is,

Thy Country is thy Heir: and therefore we Justly esteem thy Country's Parent Thee.

Between this Town and Drayton, a small Market-town, higher up Northward, and likewise on the Borders of Staffordshire, is Bloreheath, famous for a Battle fought between the House of York and that of Lancaster, wherein Nevil Earl of Salisbury for the former, with 5000 Men only, beat Lord Audley with 10000 Men, after a most bloody Engagement.

Entering Staffordshire, we quitted the said Street|way, a little to the left, to see Stafford the County-town, and the most considerable, except Litchfield, in the County. In the Way we pass'd thro' a small, but antient Town, call'd Penkrige, vulgarly Pank|rage, probably the Penn••erucium of the Romans,

where happen'd to be a Fair. We were surprised to see the prodigious Number of the finest and most beautiful Horses that can any-where be seen, brought hither from Yorkshire, the Bishoprick of Durham, and all the Horse-breeding Counties in England: we were told there were not less than an hundred Joc|keys or Horse-kopers, as they call them there, from London, to buy Horses for Sale. Also an incredible Number of Gentlemen attended with their Grooms, to buy Hunters and good Road Horses. In a Word, I believe I may mark it for the greatest Horse-Fair in the World, for Horses of Value, and especially those we call Saddle-Horses; tho' there were great Numbers of fine large Stone-Horses for Coach and Draught too.

From hence we came in Two Hours easy Riding to Stafford, on the River Sow. 'Tis an antient Town, and gives Name to the County; but we thought to have found in it something more worth go|ing so much out of the Way for. It is however neat and well-built, and pleasantly seated in low Grounds, and is lately much increased, and grown rich by the Clothing-trade. It is governed by a Mayor, and other inferior Officers, consists of Two Parishes, and has a good Free-school. 'Tis said this Town retains the antient Custom of Borough English, which is, that the youngest Sons inherit the Lands of their Fathers within the Town. Here is likewise a fine square Market-place, where stands the Shire-Hall, and the Streets are well paved.

We tarry'd here a few Days, in order to visit the Towns lying on each Side of it, with more At|tention and Convenience.

Eccleshall lies North-west of Stafford, and is a pretty Market-town noted for Pedlery-wares; and a little Market-town call'd Stone, lies upon the Trent.

〈…〉〈…〉 Line stands still further North, 〈…〉〈…〉 Trent. 'Tis govern••d by a

Mayor, Two Justices, Two Bailiffs, and Common-council, and holds Pleas under 40s. The Streets are large, broad, and pav'd; but the Houses are low, and generally thatch'd: the Clothing-trade flourishes here, and the Town is surrounded with Coal-pits. Here are the Ruins of an old Castle. The Coals here are cut out in Slices, and shine with all the va|rious Colours of a Peacock's Tail, and therefore are call'd Peacock-Coals.

Dr. Plot, as an Instance of the Growth of Stones, mentions, that near this Place was found a Stone, with a Man's Skull, Teeth and all, inclosed in it. And here is an excellent Device for the Taming of Shrews: they put a Bridle into the Scold's Mouth, which deprives her of the Power of Speech, by which she is led about the Town, and expos'd to publick Shame, till she promises Amendment.

Betley, a little Market-town, lies West of New|castle, upon the Borders of Cheshire.

Breewood is a pretty Market-town, lying South-west of Stafford. And due South stands

Wolverhampton, a very antient Town, situate on an Hill, which is well-built, pav'd, and inhabited. Here the Trade of Lock-making is carry'd on to great Perfection. In its Church are several old Mo|numents, and a Brass Statue of Sir Richard Leveson, who engag'd the Spaniards under Sir Francis Drake. The Pulpit is very old, and of Stone; and in the Church-yard is a very old Stone Cross. From the Hill, on which the Town is situated, run Four weak Springs of different Qualities, which is the only Water they have to supply this large and populous Town.

Walsal, East of Wolverhampton, is a good, pleasant Corporate-town, governed by a Mayor, and situate on the Top of an Hill. This Place is famous for Iron|mines and Iron-works; such as Spurs, Bridle-bits, Stirrups, Buckles, &c. in which there is a consider|able Trade carried on.

Upon the Extremity of the County, South, just on the Borders of Worcestershire, is situate upon a high Mountain, the famous antient Castle of Dudley, a Building of great Extent with Trenches about it, cut out of a Rock, and hath a high Tower upon it, on the South-side. It was built by Dodo a Saxon, in 700. Great Part of it is in Ruins, and the rest is converted into a noble Seat, where the Lord Dudley and Ward resides. The Castle over-tops all the Trees that surround it, and has a most extensive Prospect over Five Shires, and into part of Wales. In the Hall of this Castle is a Table all of one intire Plank, which, before it was fitted up there, was 25 Yards long, and 1 Yard in Breadth; but being too long for the Hall, 7 Yards and 9 Inches of it was cut off, and made a Table for the Hall of a neighbouring Gen|tleman. What a prodigious Oak must this have been, that had a Length of 25 Yards, and a Diameter of one Yard from one End to the other!

The Town of Dudley lies near it, but in Wor|cestershire; and is only remarkable for being in a dif|ferent County from the Castle.

The People in this County have been more par|ticularly famous than any other for good Footman|ship; and there have been, and still are among them, some of the fleetest Runners in England; which must be owing to their exercising themselves to it from their Childhood; for running Foot-races seems to be the general Sport or Diversion of the Country.

Near Stafford we saw Ingestre, where the late Walter Chetwynd, Esq built, or rather rebuilt, a very fine Church at his own Charge, and where the late Lord Chetwynd has, with a Profusion of Expence, laid out the finest Park and Gardens that are in this Part of England.

I am now at the utmost Extent of my proposed Limits for this Circuit; for Ingestre Parks reach to

the very Banks of the Trent. So I turn'd to the Right, and intending for Litchfield, in the Way we saw Beaudesert, a famous old Seat, said to be built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester. The Name indeed intimates it to be of Norman or French Original; at present it is in the noble Family of Paget, Earl of Uxbridge, who is styled Baron of Beaudesert. The Park is very fine, and its Situation exceeding pleasant, but the House is antient. In the Park is a famous Piece of Antiquity, viz. a large Camp or Fortifi|cation, surrounded with a double Trench, very large and deep.

From hence 'tis about four or five Miles to the City of Litchfield, the principal, next to Chester, of all the North-west Part of England; nor indeed is there any other, but this and Coventry, in the whole Road from London to Carlisle, which is on the Edge of Scotland.

At Rugely, which is an handsome well-built Town, finely situated near the Trent, we came into the great Lancashire and Cheshire Road, or the North-west Road from London, which passing through this City from Warrington-bridge in Cheshire, falls into the Watling-street, mention'd before, about Three Miles South-east from the Town, and crosses another an|tient Causeway or Road, call'd Icknild-street, about a Mile out of the City; so that Litchfield lies, as it were, at the joining of all those great Roads. But instead of going directly to Litchfield, we struck out of the Road, and went North-east to Bromley, a pretty Market-town; and from thence East to Tutbury on the Skirts of Derbyshire: It has a small Market-town with a Castle in it.

Some Miles Southward stands Burton upon Trent, where the Clothing-trade is carried on with great Advantage. It is famous for its noble Bridge over the Trent, consisting of 34 Arches, and of the Length

of 515 Yards. It is built of Free-stone cut and squared.

From hence we returned South-west to Litchfield, which is a fine, neat, well-built, and pretty large City. It rose from the Ruins of the Roman Eto|cetum a Mile off, now called Chesterfield-wall, from some Reliques of its Fortifications. There is a kind of slow, sluggish Water which runs, or rather glides heavily, thro' it, and so on for Four or Five Miles farther into the Trent, but takes a swifter Motion as soon as it is out of the Town. This Water parts the City into Two: one Part is call'd the Town, and the other the Close; in the first is the Market-place, a fine School, and a very handsome Hospital well endow'd. This Part is much the largest and most populous: but the other is the fairest, has the best Buildings in it, and, among the rest, the Cathedral Church, one of the finest and most beautiful in England.

There are Two fine Causeways, which join the City and the Close, with Sluices to let the Water pass; but those were cut thro' in the Time of the late intestine Wars in England; and the Close, which is wall'd about, and was then fortify'd for the King, was very strong, and stood out several Attacks against Cromwell's Men, and was not at last taken without great Loss of Blood on both Sides, being gallantly defended, and at last taken by Storm.

There are in the Close, besides the Houses of the Clergy Residentiaries, a great many very well-built, and well-inhabited Houses, which made Litchfield a Place of good Company, above all the Towns in this or the neighbouring Counties of Warwickshire or Derbyshire.

The See is very antient, and was once Archiepi|scopal, made so by King Offa; and Eadulph the Archbishop was Metropolitan of all the Kingdom of the Mercians, and East-Angles; but it did not hold

it; then it suffer'd another Diminution, by having the See of Chester taken away, which was once Part of this.

They told us here a long Story of St. Chad, for|merly Bishop of this Church, and how he liv'd an Eremitical Life here, by the Spring near Stow Church, in a little Hovel or Cell. But the Bishops, since that Time, fare better, and make shift with a very fine Palace in the Close, and the Residentiaries live in Proportion to them.

They have another Legendary Story also at Litch|field; namely, that a thousand poor People, being instructed in the Christian Faith by the Care of Offa King of the Mercians, were all martyr'd here in one Field by the Pagans; and that in the Field where they were so murder'd, King Oswy of Northumber|land caused a great Church to be built; and from thence the City bears for its Device an open Field, with mangled Carcasses lying dispers'd about in it, as if murder'd, and left unburied.

The Church, for the Elegancy and Regularity of the Building, may be esteemed one of the most com|plete in England. The West-end is richly decorated with the Statues of all the Kings who reigned in Jerusalem, from David to the Captivity. But it is too flat, and wants Projection, or, as Architects call it, Relief, to give it Boldness. The Two Towers are much too low for their Breadth, and look very heavy for want of Windows, especially where the Bells hang. The circular Stair-cases projecting octa|gonally at one Angle only of each, without any of the other Three Angles answering, is a great Irre|gularity. But the Spires above them are carried up in an exceeding beautiful Taste, much beyond any other Gothick Spires that I have seen. The middle Tower and Spire of this Church are much higher than those at the West-end, and are equally beau|tiful.

The Spire designed for the Middle of Westmin|ster-Abbey, is an Imitation of the middle Spire of this Church.

The great Window over the middle Door is very large, and its Pediment finely adorn'd, a large Cross finishing the Top of it.

The Imagery and carv'd Work on the Front, as above, suffer'd much in the late unhappy Times; and they told us, the Cross over the West Window was frequently shot at by the rude Soldiers; but that they could not shoot it down.

The Saints of those Days also intirely ruin'd all the Ornaments of the Inside, with the Brass Inscrip|tions, Tombs, &c. It is built in the midst of a Bog for Security, and held out some fierce Attacks for King Charles I. and what the Outside suffer'd, has been very well repair'd since the Restoration, as well by the famous Bishop Hacket, as by the Bounty of several noble and generous Benefactors.

The Monasticon makes Mention of a Shrine given here for the Holy St. Chad, or St. Cedda, which cost 200,000l. but I conceive that to smell as much of the Legend, as the Miracles of St. Chad himself; since such a Gift at that Time must be equal to Two Millions of our Money.

Antient Camps are found in the Neighbourhood of Litchfield.

From Litchfield we came to Tamworth, a fine plea|sant trading Town, eminent for good Ale, and good Company, of the middling Sort; and also for a fine Charity of the famous Bookseller, Mr. Guy, who built and endow'd the noble Hospital in Southwark, called by his Name. The Town stands on the River Tame, which runs through it, and divides it into Two Parts, one Part whereof is in this County, and the other in Warwickshire. It is a Bailiwick Town, and a Place of good Account, tho' it has been much more considerable. Here was antiently a Palace of

the Mercian Kings, and there is still remaining a square Trench, call'd the King's Dyke. This Town was given by the Conqueror to the Marmyons, who built the Castle here, and were hereditary Cham|pions of England, from whom that Office descended to the Dymokes of Lincolnshire.

From Tamworth we came to Sutton-Colefield, a little Town situated in an excellent Air, and among pleasant Woods, tho' but in a barren Soil; and then we came into the great Road again at Coleshill in War|wickshire, a small, but very handsome Market-town; from whence we came to Coventry, the Sister City to Litchfield, and join'd in the Title of See, which was for some little Time seated here, but afterwards return'd to Litchfield.

Coventry is a City of large Extent and populous, and drives a very great Trade: the Manufacture of Tammies is their chief Imploy, and next to that, weaving of Ribbons of the meanest kind, chiefly black. The Buildings are very old, and in some Places very much decayed; the Timber-built Houses project forwards into the Street towards one another, insomuch that in the narrow Streets they almost touch at the Top; a Method of Building formerly much practised in London.

The Tale of the Lady Godiva, who rode naked thro' the High-Street of this City, to purchase its Exemption from oppressive Taxes, is held for so cer|tain a Truth, that they will not have it question'd upon any Account whatsoever; and in Memory of it, the Inhabitants make a Procession yearly with a naked Figure of a Woman riding on Horse-back thro' the City; and the Picture of the poor Fellow who peep'd out of the Window to see her, is still kept up, looking out of a Garret in the High-Street of the City: but Mr. Camden says positively, nobody look'd at her at all. Two Parliaments have been held in this City, both remarkably denominated; one

in the 6th of King Henry IV. called Parliamentum Indoctorum; the other in the 38th of King Henry VI. called Parliamentum Diabolicum, because of the At|tainder pass'd in it against the House of York and its Partisans.

At the Restoration of King Charles II. the Walls and Towers of the City were demolish'd, by that Prince's Command, and only the Gates of it left standing; by which the Beauty and Strength of the rest may be guess'd at.

This City is a County incorporate of itself, and has a great many Towns within its Liberties, holds Pleas, and is govern'd by a Mayor, 10 Aldermen, and Sub-officers; but it had only Two Parish Churches, that of the Holy Trinity, and the Church of St. Michael, which were unable to hold half the Inhabitants, till the Year 1734, when an Act passed for making the Church of Bablack in Coventry a Parish Church, and for appointing a District or Parish thereto, and for enabling the Master and Usher of the Free Grammar-school within the said City, to be the Rector and Lecturer of the said Parish Church, for all time to come. This is called in the Act the Parish Church of St. John the Baptist in the City of Coventry. Besides these Three Churches and Parishes, it has Four Steeples; and the Cross is notedly one of its greatest Ornaments. The Roads are kept well pav'd to it for a Mile round. Here is a good Free-school, founded by John Hales, Esq by the Name of the School of King Henry VIII. the Master of which is to be, for the future, the Minister of the new Parish Church, as I have mentioned. It has a good Library; and there is also an Hospital for the Poor. But here is no Cathedral, as some have falsly said; neither is the great Church, so called, either Collegiate or Conventual; but only a Monastery or Priory.

Yet this City contended a great while for thi•• Honour, but could not carry it. In King Henry VIII.'s Time, the Priory being dissolv'd, the Church, which they would have call'd a Cathedral, was re|duc'd to a private Parish Church, and continues so to this Day: 'tis also an Archdeaconry, and the Bishop is styled Bishop of Litchfield and Coventry.

The Spire of the great Church is however very beautiful, and 100 Yards high. There is another good Church in the same Yard; the Cross, a fine Gothick Work, 66 Feet high; and in Niches are the Statues of several of the English Kings. At the South-end of the Town stands a tall Spire by itself, being what is left of the Grey Friers Conventual Church. The Town-house is worth seeing; the Windows of it are painted Glass, representing some of the old Kings, Earls, &c. who have been Benefactors to the Town.

And a Copy of Latin Verses are there to be read, in Praise of their Royal Benefactors, in which are named the Edwards, the Henries, the Black Prince, Queen Elizabeth, the Duke of Northumberland, and the great Earl of Leicester.

From Coventry we could by no means pass the Town of Warwick, the Distance too being but about Six Miles, and a very pleasant Way on the Banks of the River Avon: 'Tis famous for being the Residence of the great Guy, Earl of Warwick, of whom Tra|dition has deliver'd down to us so many hyperbolical Accounts, that it is hardly possible to distinguish his real Actions from what are fabulous. He flourished in the Reign of Athelstane, and decided the Fate of the Kingdom by Compact, in single Combat with Colbrond the Dane, a Man of gigantick Stature, whom he slew, and afterwards led a Hermit's Life, till his Death. They shew us here his Castle, his Helmet, his Sword, and tell abundance of things of

him, which have some Appearance of History, tho' not much Authority to support them. So I leave that Part to the curious Searchers into Antiquity, who may consult Mr. Camden, Rous, Dugdale, and other Antiquaries on that Subject, who tell us the Castle was built before our Saviour's Time, and has been a Place of great Consideration ever since.

As to Warwick, it is really a fine Town, pleasantly situated on the Bank of the Avon, over which is a large and stately Bridge, the Avon being now grown a pretty large River. Warwick has suffer'd much from all Quarters. It was once destroy'd by the Picts and Scots; after which the famous Caractacus (who at the Head of the Silures oppos'd the Romans so long) rebuilt it, erecting there also a Palace for himself. Then the Romans under Ostorius, and after them the Saxons, greatly damaged it; and lastly, the ravaging Danes ruined it.

Tho' it was a Corporation by Prescription, yet it took a Charter from Philip and Mary, and since from James I. and is now governed by a Bailiff, and 12 Burgesses. It has a handsome Stone-built Market-house upheld by Pillars; and here is a good Free-school, and a well-endow'd Hospital for decayed Gentlemen. Tho' it has been always accounted a handsome well-built Town, yet the Face of it is now quite alter'd and improv'd; for having been almost wholly reduc'd to a Heap of Rubbish, by a terrible Fire, which hap|pen'd the Fifth Day of September 1694, by the mere Accident of a Spark being blown from a Stick, as it was carried cross a Lane, to the Damage of 96,000l. it was rebuilt by Act of Parliament, and that in so noble and beautiful a manner, that few Towns in England make so fine an Appearance.

The Church and lofty Tower is new-built, except the East-end, which is old, and very good Work. There are many fine Brass Monuments of the Earls of Warwick, and others; also one of the Earl of

Essex, Queen Elizabeth's unhappy Favourite; and many Chapels and Confessionaries. In the Chapter-house on the North-side is a Tomb of the Lord Brook. The Castle stands upon the River Avon on a solid Rock, from whose Bowels that and the whole Town may be said to have been dug. The Terrace of the Castle, like that of Windsor, overlooks a beautiful Country, and sees the Avon running at the Foot of the Precipice, from above 50 Feet per|pendicular Height; for the solid Rock, from the Ri|ver on which it stands, it 40 Feet high, but on the North-side it is even with the Town. The Build|ing is old, but has been often repair'd and beautify'd; and 'tis now a very agreeable Structure both within and without. The Apartments are very nicely con|trived, and the Communication of the remotest Parts of the Building, one with another, is so well pre|serv'd by Galleries, and by the great Hall, which is very magnificent, that one finds no Irregularity in the whole Building, notwithstanding its antient Plan, as it was a Castle, built for Strength rather than a Palace to dwell in for Pleasure.

A Stone Bridge with a Dozen Arches is at the Castle; across is a Stone-work Dam, where the Water falls over it as a Cascade under the Castle Wall. It is fenc'd with a deep Mound, and strong embattled double Walls and lofty Towers. On one Side the Area is a very high Mount. There are good Apartments and Lodgings next the River, the Residence of the Lord Brook. The Priory, on the North-east of the Town overlooks a pleasant woody Vale. There are a great many curious original Pictures in the Castle, by Vandyke and other good Hands, of Kings, Queens, and other noble Person|ages, both English and Foreign.

A Mile out of Town, on the Side of a Hill, is a pretty retired Cell, called Guy-cliff. In an old Chapel is Guy's Statue, Eight Feet high. The

Fence of the Court is intire Rock, in which are cut Stables and Out-houses. They shew'd us the rough Cave, where they say the famous Guy dy'd an Hermit.

While I was station'd, as I may say, at Warwick, I took a Turn about the Country, to view such Places of Note, as lay something out of my intended Rout. And first, passing a Rivulet, I came to the antient Tripontium, plac'd in a pleasant little Valley, the Sides of which are pretty steep. The Road on the opposite Hill looks perfectly like a Perspective-scene at the Theatre. This is a Roman Station, rightly plac'd at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby to Warwick. The Stream here divides into two, with a Bridge over each. Upon one is a short Inscription in Stone, shewing the three Counties which repair it.

Near this Place, at Legers-Ashby in Northampton|shire, has been an old Town, as they say, destroy'd by the Danes. Catesby, who hatch'd the Powder-plot, own'd the Town.

We went on to Daventry, a considerable Market-town, govern'd by a Mayor, Aldermen, Steward, and 12 Freemen. It lies on the great Road to Chester, and is consequently a great Thorough-fare, and well furnish'd with good Inns; for it subsists chiefly by the great Concourse of Travellers that pass that way. It lies also on the old Watling-street Way. The Road was turn'd to pass through the Town, and runs on to Dunsmore-heath, where it crosses the Fosse, and one Branch goes on to Coventry, and the other joins the Fosse, and goes on to a Place call'd High-cross, of which further anon, where it falls into the old Wat|ling-street, and both meet again near Litchfield.

It is a most pleasant Curiosity to observe the Course of these old famous Highways, the Ikenild Way, the Watling-street, and the Fosse; in which one sees so lively a Representatation of the antient British,

Roman and Saxon Governments, that one cannot help recalling those Times to the Imagination; and though I am confin'd to such narrow Limits in this Work, yet a Circuit or Tour thro' England would be very imperfect, if I should take no Notice of these Ways, seeing in tracing them we necessarily come to the principal Towns, either that are or have been in every County; and likewise in mentioning their Remains, we give some Account of them as in their present State, which falls directly in with my Design.

From Daventry we went a little out of the Road, to see a great Camp, call'd Burrow-hill, upon the North End of an Eminence, cover'd over with Fern and and Goss. Here used to be kept a Horse-race. They say this was a Danish Camp, and every thing hereabouts is attributed to the Danes, because of the neighbour|ing Daventry, which they suppose to be built by them. The Road hereabouts too being overgrown with Daneweed, they fansy it sprung from the Blood of the Danes, slain in Battle; and that if upon a certain Day in the Year you cut it, it bleeds. Origi|nally, it seems to have been Roman, but perhaps new-modell'd by the Danes.

In Norton Town Road a Cornu Ammonis lies neglected, too big to bring away.

At Weedon is shewn the Scite of King Wolfhere's Palace; the Saxon Kings of this Province residing here. The Pastures call'd, The Ashes are the Roman Camp. St. Werberg, Daughter of King Wolfhere, and Abbess to the Nunnery in this Place, had here a Chapel. Abundance of very fine Stone, and many Roman Coins, have been dug up. Weedon now contains two Parishes, and has been a Market-town.

Towcester is a considerable Town between two Ri|vulets, which encompass it almost round.

Old Stretford stands on the opposite Side of the Owse to Stony-Stratford; in the Fields thereabouts are found many Roman Coins.

A little North of the Horseshoe-inn stood Queen Eleanor's Cross, which was pull'd down in the Civil Wars.

To the West of Stretford stands Whaddon-hall, upon very high Ground, affording a most beautiful Prospect. This Manor formerly belong'd to the Lords Grey; one of whom, a Knight of the Garter, is buried in the Church. Here is the original Picture of Dr. Willis, the Progenitor of the present Possessor, with many of his MSS. Letters, Consultations, Lectures, and other Works unpublish'd. The Poets Spencer and the Duke of Bucks honour'd this Place with their Residence. Still higher stands Stukely: The Church is very intire, tho' built before the Conquest, in the plain antient manner.

I now come to Northampton, the handsomest Town in all this Part of England; but here, as at Warwick, the Beauty of it is owing to its Disaster; for it was so effectually burnt down, that very few Houses were left standing; and, altho' the Fire began in the Day-time, the Flame spread itself with such Fury, and Speed, that they tell us, a Towns|man being two Miles off, upon a Hill, on the South-side of the Town, saw the Fire at one End of it, just as it began; and before he could reach the Town, with all the Speed he could, the other End was in Flames also. 'Tis now finely rebuilt with Brick and Stone, and the Streets made spacious and wide. It has four Churches, two Hospitals, and a Charity-school well endow'd. The Market-place is square and spacious; the Assize-house is built after the Corinthian Order. Allhallows Church is a pretty Edifice, with a Cupola, and a noble Portico, before it, of 8 lofty Ionick Columns. Upon the Ba|lustrade is a Statue of King Charles II. It is situ|ate on the River Nyne, over which there are two handsome Bridges, and is walled in; and on the West side are the Remains of an old Castle, upon an Emi|nence.

'Tis govern'd by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, a Recorder, &c. All-Saints Church before-mention'd stands in a Centre, where four large spacious Streets terminate. The publick Buildings are esteem'd the finest that can be seen in any County-town in Eng|land, being all new-built. But that Writer took very little Notice of Northampton, or rather had never seen it, who told us of a Cathedral, a Chapter-house, and a Cloyster.

The great Inn called the George, at the Corner of the High-Street, looks more like a Palace than an Inn, and cost above 2000l. building; and so generous was the Owner, that, as we were told, when he had built it, he gave it to the Poor of the Town.

This is counted the Centre of all the Horse-Mar|kets, and Horse-Fairs in England, there being here no less than four Fairs in a Year. And indeed North|ampton is reckoned the Navel of England. Here they buy Horses of all Sorts, as well for the Saddle as for the Coach and Cart; and hither••…••…ll the Jockeys from London resort to purchase Horses.

Near Northampton is the antient Royal House of Holmeby, which was formerly in great Esteem, and by its Situation is capable of being made a truly Royal Palace. But the melancholy Reflection of the Imprisonment of King Charles I. in this House, and his being violently taken hence again by the Rebels, has cast a kind of Disgrace upon the Place, so that it has been forsaken. The House and Estate was purchas'd by the Duchess of Marlborough, and be|came Part of the Jointure which was settled on the Marchioness of Blandford. It is at present possessed by a Farmer, who has pull'd down Part of the Out-houses, and converted the remaining Part into Barns, Stables, &c.

A little way off of Northampton is Naseby, where the bloody and fatal Battle was fought between the

Royalists and Parliamentarians, upon a fine Plain, where at present stands a Wind-mill; and on it, are the Marks of several great Holes, where the Slain were buried; and near this is Guildsborough, so nam'd from a Roman Camp, of a square Form, and deep Ditch, called The Burrows.

The Town of Towcester is of large Extent, and very populous; and having but one Parish Church, which is two Miles distant from the Hamlet of Al|thorpe and Foxcoate, in which there was a Chapel of ••ase, but officiated in only once a Month, by the Vicar of Towcester, though 'tis computed there are 400 Souls in the said Hamlet, who in the Winter-time cannot attend Divine Service at Towcester; and several Benefactions having been given, in case the said Hamlet should be erected into a Parish: For all these Reasons, an Act passed, Sess. 1737. for making the Chapel in the Hamlet of Althorpe and Foxc••••te a Parish Church, and for appointing a Di|strict or Parish thereto; and, according to the Con|dition of one of the Benefactions, enabling the Master of the Free Grammar-school, within the said Hamlet, to be Vicar of the new Parish Church.

The Seat of the Earl of Pomfret, near Towcester, is a stately Building, and stands pleasantly amidst good Plantations of Wood, Vista's, and fine Prospects. In the grand View to the back Front, beyond the Garden, is a large and long Canal. Several curious Pictures are in the House. But what inhances the Glory of this Seat is, the vast Number of Greek and Roman Marbles, Statues, Busto's, Bas-reliefs, Urns, Altars, &c. Part of the invaluable Collection of the great Earl of Arundel, and which are worthy of a Journey through half the Globe to behold. The Hall is a fine lofty Room, and the great Stairs are painted in Fresco by Sir James Thornhill.

Towcester is a pretty Town of Roman Antiquity; through which, in a strait Line, runs the Watling-street.

The Inhabitants of all Ages are here imploy'd in a silken Manufacture, and Lace-making. The Town consists of one long Street, and is almost intirely incompass'd with Water.

The House late the Earl of Sunderland's, at Al|thorpe, now belonging to the Hon. John Spencer, Esq Brother to his Grace the present Duke of Marl|borough, who is Earl of Sunderland, has within these few Years changed its Face to much Advantage. This antient Seat was rebuilt with great Improvement, by Robert Earl of Sunderland, Grandfather to the pre|sent Duke of Marlborough; and is particularly noted for a magnificent Gallery, furnish'd with a large Collection of curious Paintings, by the best Hands.

The Park is laid out and planted, after the Man|ner of that at Greenwich, and was design'd by Le Notre, the same Person who planted St. James's Park, and Cassioberry; as also several other Parks and Gardens in England.

There is a noble Piece of Water here, on which is lately built a fine Vessel, completely equipp'd; as his Grace the Duke of Bedford has also at his Seat at Woburn-Abbey. There is likewise on this Water a fine Venetian Gondola, Canoes, &c. But this Water is situated too near the House, and occasions so great a Damp, that some of the Pictures in the Gallery are mildew'd thereby.

At a convenient Distance from the House, is lately built a handsome Square of Offices, and near these is a large Kitchen-Garden finely walled and planted, in which is a handsome Building, for the Residence of the Gardener, which is a Model of an Italian Villa.

From hence we went North towards Harborough, and in the Way, in the Midst of deep dismal Roads, the dirtiest and worst in all that Part of the Country, we saw Boughton, the noble Seat of the Duke of Montagu, a House built by the first Duke, very

much after the Model of the Palace of Versailles; the treble Wings projecting and expanded, forming a Court or Space wider and wider, in proper Stades, answerable to the Wings, the Body of the House closing the whole View.

The Hall is a very noble Room; on the Ceiling is a Convocation of the Gods, admirably painted, as are many Suites of Rooms, Stair-cases, Galleries, &c. beside the great Number of Portraits and other curious Pictures. The Gardens contain 90 Acres, adorn'd with Statues, Flower-pots, Urns of Marble and Metal, many very large Basons, with Variety of Fountains playing, Aviaries, Reservoirs, Fish-ponds, Canals, Wildernesses, Terraces, &c. The Cascade is very fine, and a whole River running thro' the Length of the Gardens, is diversify'd most agreeably to com|plete its Beauty.

The Park is walled round with Brick, and so finely planted with Trees, and in such an excellent Order, that I saw nothing more beautiful, no not in Italy it|self, except that the Walks of Trees were not Orange and Lemon, and Citron, as it is in Naples, and the Abruzzo, and other Southern Parts of Italy.

A Mile off is Geddington, where, in a Trivium, stands one of the Stone Crosses, built by King Ed|ward I. in Memory of his Queen Eleanor. These are said to be the Places where the Corps of that Princess rested, and Crosses erected, viz. Lincoln, Newark, Leicester, Geddington, Northampton, Stony-Strat|ford, Dunstable, St. Albans, Waltham, Cheapside, Charing-cross.

On Willoughby Side of the Road is an Hillock, call'd Cross-hill, where the Country-people observe an anniversary Festival. Willoughby Brook plays in delightful Meanders along a Valley between Corn|fields, with a moderate Water, unless raised by Rains. Here several brass and silver Coins have been found, and some of Gold. The People have a Notion of

great Riches being hid under-ground; and there is a vulgar Report, that under one Balk or Mere, that is, Division, between the ploughed Fields, there is as much Money, as would purchase the whole Lord|ship; but they dare not dig, they pretend, for fear of Spirits. Mosaic Pavements, Coins, Pot-hooks, Fire-shovels, &c. have been also found.

In Willoughby Town is an handsome Cross of one Stone, five Yards long. The Parliament Soldiers had ty'd Ropes about it to pull it down; but the Vicar quench'd their Zeal with some strong Beer, after having harangued them concerning its Innocence.

At Cossington, near the River Wrek, is a vast Bar|row, 350 Feet long, 120 broad, 40 high, or near it, very handsomely work'd up on the Sides, and very steep. It is call'd Shipley-hill, from a great Captain of that Name, who, they say, was here buried. On the Top are several oblong doubled Trenches cut in the Turf, where the Lads and Lasses of the adjacent Villages meet on Easter-monday to recreate them|selves with Cakes and Ale.

At Erdborough is a strong Roman Camp, 800 Feet long, of a delightful Prospect. Near it is a petrify|ing Spring.

But I must not omit, as I had like to have done, the Town of Wellingborough in the County of North|ampton.

It was a large, well-built, and well-inhabited Town, with a fine Church, and Free-school. A dreadful Fire which happen'd here in July 1738, has made the Town still more beautiful, tho' the Occasion was too melancholy to be wish'd for. It began at a Dyer's House in the Town, about two in the After|noon, and in the Space of Six Hours consumed near 220 Houses, besides Out-houses, Barns, Stables, &c. amounting in the Whole to upwards of 800, mostly in the South and East Parts of the Town. The Wind being high, and but little Water to be had,

the Fire was so fierce and violent, that it seem'd to break out at twenty Places at once, and the Inha|bitants were in such Confusion, that but few of them had Time to save any Goods, and many only the Cloaths on their Backs. As it happen'd chiefly among the Trading Men and Farmers, the Loss upon them was very heavy. But it was a good deal alle|viated by the signal Charity of the neighbouring Gentlemen and others, which saved many of the poor Sufferers from perishing for Want.

In the Month of March, following this dreadful Fire, another happen'd at Findon, two Miles from Wellingborough, which consumed 16 Houses.

From Boughton we went on to Harborough, a good Market-town, and great Thorough-fare, in|tending to go forward to Leicester; but Curiosity turn'd us West a little, to see an old Town call'd Lutterworth, famous for being the Birth-place of John Wickliff, the first Preacher of the Reformation in England, whose Disciples were afterwards called Lollards.

The Church was lately beautify'd, and pav'd with a costly Pavement of chequer'd Stone; and the Pews are new, and every thing in it both in Church and Chancel, except the Pulpit, of thick Oak-Planks, six-square, which is preserv'd on account of its being Wickliff's Pulpit.

Being thus got a little out of our Way, we turn'd West into the Watling-street Way, at High-cross, where the Foss crosses it, and which, I suppose, occasion'd the Name, leaving Rugby in Warwickshire, a small Town, noted only for a great Number of Butchers, on the South-west of us. At this Cross we seem'd to be in the Centre, and highest Ground of England; for from hence Rivers run every way. The Fosse went across the Back-side of our Inn, and so towards Bath. Here are divers Roman Antiqui|ties:

its antient Appellation was Benonis. The late Earl of Denbigh, and the Gentlemen in the Neigh|bourhood, erected here a Cross of an handsome Design, but of mouldering Stone, thro' the Deceit of the Architect. It consists of four Dorick Columns, re|garding the four Roads, with a gilded Globe and Cross at-top, upon a Sun-dial. On two Sides, be|tween the four Tuscan Pillars, which compose a sort of Pedestal, are these Inscriptions:

Vicinarum provinciarum, Vervicensis scilicet & Lei|cestrensis, ornamenta, proceres patriciique, auspiciis illustrissimi Basilii comitis de Denbigh, hanc columnam statuendam curaverunt, in gratam pa|riter & perpetuam memoriam Jani tandem a serenissima Anna clausi, A. D. M.DCC.XII.

Thus translated:

The Noblemen and Gentry, Ornaments of the neighbouring Counties of Warwick and Leicester, at the Instances of the Right Honourable Basil Earl of Denbigh, have caused this Pillar to be erected, in grateful as well as perpetual Remembrance of Peace at length restored by her Majesty Queen Anne, in the Year of our Lord M.DCC.XII.

The Inscription on the other Side runs thus:

Si veterum Romanorum vestigia quaeras, hic cernas, viator. Hic enim celeberrimae illorum viae mili|tares sese mutuo secantes ad extremos usque Bri|tanniae limites pr••currunt: hic stativa sua habue|runt Vennones; & ad primum abhinc lapidem castra sua ad Stratam, & ad Fossam tumulum, Claudius quidam cohortis praefectus habuisse vi|detur.

Which may be thus rendered:

If, Traveller, you search for the Foot-steps of the antient Romans, here you may behold them. For

here their most celebrated military Ways, crossing one another, extend to the utmost Boundaries of Britain: Here the Vennones kept their Quarters; and at the Distance of one Mile from hence, Claudius, a certain Commander of a Cohort, seems to have had a Camp towards the * 1.1Street, and to|wards the Fosse a Tomb.

The Watling-street, measuring from Chester thro' London and Dover, makes a strait Line with Rome. Which seems to have been so contriv'd by the great Founders, that in travelling upon it they might have the Satisfaction of reflecting, that they were going upon the Line which led to the Capital of the Empire.

To proceed, we kept the Street-way till we came into the Leicester Road, which we followed East to Hinkley, a Market-town, situate on a Hill very pleasantly. This Town is noted for a large hand|some Church, and a high Spire-Steeple all of Stone, in which is a Chime of excellent Bells.

From hence we turn'd North-west, and came to Nun-Eaton, an ordinary manufacturing Town, on the River Anker, and then Northward to Atherston; and so made a kind of serpentizing Tour of it along the Borders of the two Counties of Warwick and Leicester, sometimes in one and sometimes in the other.

Atherston is a Market-town famous for a great Cheese-Fair, on the 8th of September, from whence the Cheese-Factors carry the vast Quantities of Cheese they buy to Sturbridge Fair, which begins about the same Time, but holds much longer; and here 'tis sold again for the Supply of the Counties of Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk.

A little North-west of Atherston stands Polesworth, formerly a Market-town; but since the Dissolution of a famous Nunnery, which was there, the Market was discontinued.

From Atherston we turn'd East again, into Leicester|shire, to see Bosworth-field, famous for the great Battle which put an End to the Reign of Richard III. and to the long and bloody Contention between the Red Rose and the White, or the two Royal Houses of York and Lancaster; which, as Fame tells us, had cost the Lives of 11 Princes, 23 Earls and Dukes, 3000 Noblemen, Knights, and Gentlemen, and 200,000 of the common People. We view'd the Spot of Ground where the Battle was fought; and at the Town they shew'd us several Pieces of Swords, Heads of Lances, Barbs of Arrows, Pieces of Pole-Axes, and such-like Instruments of Death, which they said were found by the Country People in the several Grounds near the Place of Battle, as they had occasion to dig, or trench, or plough up the Ground.

Within three Miles of this Place is an antient Market-town, of the same Name, lying on a Hill, in a very healthy and pleasant Air. The Soil all round it is fruitful, both for Tillage and Pasture.

Hence I pass'd directly North to Ashby de la Zouch, on the Skirts of Derbyshire, a very pleasant Town, lying between two Parks. It consists but of one Street, in which stands a pretty Stone Cross; the Church is large and handsome, and 'tis famous for four good Horse-Fairs in the Year.

We then pass'd South-east into Leicestershire. The Earl of Stamford has a good old Hunting-seat on this Side of the Country, call'd Bradgate, and a fine Park at Grooby; but they were too much out of our Way: so we came on thro' a fine Forest to Leicester.

Leicester is an antient large and populous Town, containing five Parishes; 'tis the Capital of the County

of that Name, and stands on the River Soar, which rises not far from High-cross, just mention'd: It is a Borough and Corporation Town, whereof the chief Magistrate is a Mayor, who is assisted by a Recorder, Aldermen, and Common-council. Here are three Markets weekly, well supply'd with Provisions. A considerable Manufacture is carry'd on here, and in several of the Market-towns around, for weaving of Stockens by Frames; and one would scarce think it possible so small an Article of Trade could imploy such Multitudes of People as it does; for the whole County seems to be busy'd in it: as also Notting|ham and Derby, of which hereafter.

The County of Leicester is in part also taken up in Country Business, more particularly in breeding and feeding Cattle. Most of the Gentlemen are Grasiers, and in some Places the Grasiers are so rich, that they grow Gentlemen; 'tis not an uncommon thing for Grasiers here to rent Farms from 500l. to 2000l. a Year.

The Sheep bred in this County and Lincolnshire, which joins to it, are, without Comparison, the lar|gest, and bear not only the greatest Weight of Flesh on their Bones, but also the greatest Fleeces of Wool on their Backs, of any Sheep in England: and hence it is, that these Counties becomes vast Magazines of Wool for the rest of the Nation. Nor is the Wool less fine because of the great Quantity; but as 'tis the longest Staple, as the Clothiers call it, so it is the finest Wool in the whole Island, some few Places excepted; such as Leominster in Herefordshire, the South Downs in Sussex, and such little Places, where the Quantity is small and insignificant, compar'd to this Part of the Country; for the Sheep-breeding Country reaches from the River Anker, on the Bor|der of Warwickshire, to the Humber, at the farthest End of Lincolnshire, which is near 100 Miles in Length; and from the Bank of Trent, in Lincolnshire

and Leicestershire, to the Bank of Ouse, bordering on Bucks, Bedford, Cambridge, and Huntingdon Shires, above 60 Miles in Breadth.

These are the Funds of Sheep which furnish the City of London with their large Mutton, in such pro|digious Quantities. There are indeed a few Sheep of a large Breed, which are brought up from Rom|ney Marsh, and the adjoining low Grounds in Kent and Sussex; but they are few, and indeed scarce worth naming, compar'd to what are produc'd in these Counties.

The Horses bred, or rather fed here, are the largest in England, being generally the great black Coach and Dray-horses; of which so great a Number are continually sent up to London, that one would think so little a Spot as this of Leicestershire, could not possibly produce so many. But the adjoining Counties of Northampton and Bedford have of late come into the same Business. The chief Supply, however, is from this County, from whence the other Counties rather buy them, and feed them up as Jockeys and Chapmen, than breed them up from their Beginning.

In the South-west Part of the Country rise four considerable Second-rate Rivers, which run every one a directly contrary Course in a most remarkable Manner.

1. The Avon, which runs by Rugby, and goes away to Warwick South-west.

Of this River the Poet elegantly sings:

Yet rolling Avon still maintains its Stream, Swell'd with the Glories of the Roman Name. Strange Pow'r of Fate! Unshaken Moles must waste, While Things that ever move, for ever last.

2. The Soar, which runs by Leicester, and goes away to the Trent, North-west.

3. The Anker, which runs by Nun-Eaton, and goes away to Atherston, North; and so on to Tam|worth, West.

4. The Welland, which runs by Harborough, and goes away to Stamford, North-east.

I ought not to omit observing, that as the Town of Leicester was formerly very strong and well fortify'd, being advantageously situated for that Pur|pose, the River covering it half way about, so it was again fortify'd in the late unhappy Wars, and being garison'd by the Parliament Forces, was assaulted by the Royalists, who, after an obstinate Defence, took it Sword in Hand, which occasion'd a terrible Slaugh|ter. They preserve here a most remarkable Piece of Antiquity, being a Piece of Mosaick Work at the Bottom of a Cellar; 'tis the Story of Acteon, and his being kill'd by his own Hounds, wrought as a Pave|ment, in a most exquisite Manner; the Stones are only of two Colours, White, and Brown, and very small.

The Castle here, before it was dismantled, was a prodigious Building. It was the Court of the great Henry Duke of Lancaster, who added to it 26 Acres of Ground; which he inclos'd with a very strong Wall of square Stone, 18 Feet high, and called it his Novum opus, vulgarly now the Newark, where the best Houses in or near Leicester are, and do still continue extra-parochial. The Hall and Kitchen of this Place remain still intire, as Testimonies of the Grandeur of the Whole; the former being so lofty and spacious, that the Courts of Justice, which in Assize-time are held there, are at such a Distance, as to give no Disturbance to one another. There are several Gate-ways to enter this Palace; and that which faces the East, has an Arch that is deemed a curious Piece of Architecture; over which in the Tower is kept the Magazine for the Militia of the County.

Beneath this Castle was a very fair Collegiate Ho|spital, in the Church whereof, Henry Earl of Lan|caster, and Henry his Son the first Duke of it, were bury'd; the Hospital was built by the Duke in his old Age, and appropriated for the Maintenance of 100 poor People, in which also he placed a Dean and twelve Canons, Prebendaries, with as many Vicars and other Ministers, and ten able Women to serve and assist the Poor and Weak. This, with Divine Service therein, doth in some measure still subsist by certain Stipends paid out of the Duchy of Lancaster. Another Hospital built by Sir William Wigston, in the Reign of King Henry VIII. is in a very flourish|ing Condition there.

Leicester is the Ratae Coritanorum of the Romans. The Trace of the Roman Wall is discoverable with|out Difficulty, especially in the Gardens about Senvy|gate, with a Ditch, which is very visible. This was repair'd by Edelfleda, a noble Saxon Lady, in the Year 914. The old Work call'd Jewry-wall is composed of Rag-stone, and Roman Brick.

Not far off is a Place call'd Holy-bones, where abundance of Bones of Oxen have been dug up, which were the Remains of the Roman Sacrifices.

At Leicester many Roman Coins are found; a Pot full of them was dug up at the Entrance into White|friers. There are also many great Foundations. At St. Mary de Pree's Abbey a Body was dug up, sup|posed to be Cardinal Wolsey's.

Since its Dissolution it has been made a Dwelling-house, which has nothing left but the naked Walls, and the Spot of the Abbey is turned into a Garden. The only thing worth seeing in it, is a pleasant Ter|race-walk, supported by an embattled Wall, with Lunets hanging over the River, and shaded with Trees.

In the Time of the Saxons, St. Margaret's Church was an episcopal See, and was very fine. Here, say some, King Richard III. was buried.

Half a Mile Southward from Leicester, upon the Edge of the Meadows, is a long Ditch, call'd Raw|dikes; on the Banks of which, according to Tradi|tion, King Charles I. stood to behold the Storm of the Town. That Prince lay at the Vicarage-house at Elston.

South-east of Leicester lies Billesden, a Market-town of no Note: and further South still, is Hallaton, another Town noted for its Poverty, in the midst of a rich Soil.

The Fosse-way leads from hence through the North-west Part of this County; but entering Nottingham|shire, it inclines North-east, through the Vale of Belvoir, or, as it is commonly call'd, of Bever, to Newark. In all this long Tract, we pass through a rich and fertile Country, having in our Coast North-eastward the noble River Trent, for twenty Miles to|gether, often in our View.

But some Miles North of Leicester the River Wrek, which comes from the North-east, and the Stour, which runs North-west, form a kind of Y; the Stour from Leicester Southward making the Tail. In the Course last-mentioned we passed through Montsorrel and Loughborough, both Market-towns, lying on the Fosse, which runs nearly parallel with the Stour, and makes one Side of the Y. The first is situate under a great Eminence, and has a good Stone Bridge over the Stour; and the other is seated among rich Meadow-ground, and is a fine agreeable Town. And on the Wrek, which makes the other Side of the Y, stand Melton Mowbray, a large well-built consider|able Market-town, situate in a fertile Soil, almost sur|rounded with a little River, call'd the Eye, over which it has two fine Bridges; and also Waltham on the Would, (i. e. on the Downs) which is but a mean Market-town.

Belvoir-castle, standing within Lincolnshire, but on the Edge of Leicestershire, is a truly noble Situa|tion,

tho' on a very high Precipice; 'tis the antient Seat of the Dukes of Rutland, a Family risen by just Degrees to an immense Height both of Honour and Wealth. I shall mention the House again in my Return out of Lincolnshire.

Bingham in Nottinghamshire lying in our Way to Newark, we pass'd through it. It is but a small Market-town, but is noted for a Parsonage of great Value.

At Newark one can hardly see, without Regret, the Ruins of that famous Castle, which through all the civil War in England, kept a strong Garison for the King to the last, and so cut off the greatest Pass into the North that is in the whole Kingdom; nor was it ever taken, 'till the King, press'd by the Calamity of his Affairs, put himself into the Hands of the Scots Army, which lay before it, and then commanded the Governor to deliver it up; after which it was demolish'd, that the great Road might lie open and free; and it remains in Rubbish to this Day.

The Castle was built here by Alexander Bishop of Lincoln, in the Reign of King Stephen; and the Town took its Name from that New Work.

This Town was certainly rais'd from the neigh|bouring Roman Cities, and has been wall'd about with their Remains. The Northern Gate is composed of Stones seemingly of a Roman Cut: and perhaps they had a Town here; for many Antiquities are found about it. Here are two fine Stone Crosses. A Gentleman, digging to plant some Tree by the Fosse Road Side, discover'd four Urns in a strait Line, and at equal Distances, in one of which was a brass Lar, or Houshold-God, an Inch and half long, but much consum'd by Rust.

Newark is a very handsome well-built Town, situate on the Trent, under the Government of a Mayor and 12 Aldermen. The Market-place is a

noble Square, and the Church is large and spacious, with a curious Spire, which, were not Grantham so near, might pass for the finest and highest in all this Part of England. The Trent divides itself here, and makes an Island, and the Bridges lead just to the Foot of the Castle Wall; so that, while this Place was in the Hands of any Party, as I have before hinted, there was no Travelling but by their Leave; but all the Travelling into the North at that Time was by Nottingham Bridge.

I am, Sir, yours, &c.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The Watling-street, simply call'd The Street, by way of Emi|nence.