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Title: Shoe and boot making
Original Title: Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier
Volume and Page: Plates vol. 3 (1763)
Author: Unknown
Translator: D. A. Saguto [The Honourable Cordwainers' Company (Guild)]
Original Version (ARTFL): Link
Source: M. de Garsault’s 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: An Annotated Translation. Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in association with Texas Tech University Press, 2009. (Used with permission.)
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URL: http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431
Citation (MLA): "Shoe and boot making." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by D. A. Saguto. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2010. Web. [fill in today's date in the form 18 Apr. 2009 and remove square brackets]. <http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431>. Trans. of "Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 3 (plates). Paris, 1763.
Citation (Chicago): "Shoe and boot making." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by D. A. Saguto. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431 (accessed [fill in today's date in the form April 18, 2009 and remove square brackets]). Originally published as "Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 3 (plates) (Paris, 1763).

Containing Two Plates.


Plate One

The picture at the top of the plate represents the shop of the shoemaker.

  • Fig. 1. Shoemaker who is measuring.
  • 2. Worker who is selecting a suitable last.
  • 3. Worker who is stiching a sole.
  • 4. Worker who is treeing a boot.
  • 5, 6. Two journeymen.
  • 7. A cobbler in this stall.
    • a, b, c, rows of different lasts.
    • d, boot lasts. [1]
    • e, e, completed boots.
    • f, measures.
    • g, vamp patterns.
    • h, table crowded with different tools.

Bottom of the Plate

  • Fig. 1. Lasting pincers.
  • 2. Nippers.
  • 3. English turn shoe relasting pliers.
  • 4. Rand-setting shoulder stick.
  • 5. Boxwood shoulder stick.
  • 6, 6. Knives.
  • 7. A boot: see the one in figure 48 of plate two.
  • 8. no. 1. Boxwood long stick.
  • 8. no. 2. Round knife.
  • 9. Bone long stick [ astic ].
  • 10. Three-headed [heel] nail.
  • 11. Two-headed [sole-blocking] nail.
  • 12. Lasting tack.
  • 13. Pin tack.
  • 14. Size stick. [2]
  • 15. Shoemaker’s needle [ carrelet ].
  • 16. Hammer.
  • 17. Man’s clog overshoe.
  • 18. Woman’s clog overshoe.
  • 19. English seam set.
  • 20. Channel knife.
  • 21. Shoe stamp.
  • 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, A, B, C, D, E, F, English awls.
  • 28. no. 1. Last, for making.
  • 28. no. 2. Split last [also called a shoe stretcher].
  • 28. no. 3. Another split last.

Plate Two

  • Fig. 29. no. 1. Boot tree.
  • 30. Soft boots.
  • 31. Stirrup.
  • 32. Dauber.
  • 33. Molding block.
  • 34. Relasting cramp for turn shoes.
  • 35. Thread basket.
  • 36. Thread basket cutaway [view].
  • 37. Small awl used by the bootmaker.
  • 38. Small wooden bowl for wetting the soles.
  • 39. Stump for beating out soles.
  • 40. Vamp.
  • 41. Sole.
  • 42. Quarter.
  • 43. Shoe. A, the vamp. B, the quarter. C, the tongue. D, the heel.
  • 44. Hand leather. A, B, the holes.
  • 45. English spur.
  • 46. Hussar’s spur.
  • 47. Jackboot. a, the knee piece.
  • 48. Hunting or court boot. b, the knee piece.
  • 49. Hussar boot.
  • 50. Traveler’s or dragoon boot.
  • 51. Courier’s boot. c, knee piece.
  • 52. Blacking pot.
  • 53. Apron.

Notes

1. Although Diderot labeled this “ formes de bottes ” (boot lasts), it actually depicts boot trees.

2. Griselini calls this type of size stick English, p. 203.