Add to bookbag
Title: Tailor of suits and tailor of bodices
Original Title: Tailleur d'habits et tailleur de corps
Volume and Page: Plates vol. 9 (1771)
Author: Unknown
Translator: Bob Trump
Original Version (ARTFL): Link
Availability:

This text is protected by copyright and may be linked to without seeking permission. Please see http://quod.lib.umich.edu/d/did/terms.html for information on reproduction.

URL: http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0000.178
Citation (MLA): "Tailor of suits and tailor of bodices." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by Bob Trump. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2003. Web. [fill in today's date in the form 18 Apr. 2009 and remove square brackets]. <http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0000.178>. Trans. of "Tailleur d'habits et tailleur de corps," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 9 (plates). Paris, 1771.
Citation (Chicago): "Tailor of suits and tailor of bodices." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by Bob Trump. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2003. http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0000.178 (accessed [fill in today's date in the form April 18, 2009 and remove square brackets]). Originally published as "Tailleur d'habits et tailleur de corps," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 9 (plates) (Paris, 1771).

Containing Twenty-Four Plates

Plate I: Tailor of Suits, Tools


The top of this plate represents a tailor's workshop, where many workers are employed; the ones in a and in b, to stitch and to assemble the fabrics; another in c, to take measurements; and another in d, to cut.

Figure 1. Candlestand-case. A, the candlestick. BB, the cases [made] especially to contain the threads, needles, wax, etc. and all other utensils. C, drawer.

Figure 2. Large scissors. AA, the blades. BB, the handles.

Figure 3. Medium scissors. AA, the blades. BB, the handles.

Figure 4. Small scissors. AA, the blades. BB, the handles.

Figure 5. Candlestand. A, the foot. B, the wax guard.

Plate II: Tailor of Suits, Tools


Figure 1. Flat craquette suited to press[ing] the buttonholes. A, the iron. B, the slot. C, the handle.

Figure 2. Triangular craquette. A, the iron. B, the slot. C, the handle.

Figure 3. Sharp [or thin] stiletto for making the holes in the fabric. A, the stiletto. B, the handle.

Figure 4. Blunt [or thick] stiletto. A, the stiletto. B, the handle.

Figures 5. 6. and 7. Needles of different sizes. AAA, the heads. BBB, the points.

Figure 8. Thread dispenser undressed. A, the dispenser. B, the case; it serves to contain the thread.

Figure 9. Thread dispenser dressed. A, the dispenser with linen or silk [thread]. B, the case.

Figure 10. Closed thimble.

Figure 11. Open thimble.

Figure 12. Large goose, [a] type of iron for pressing. A, the goose. B, the handle.

Figure 13. Small goose. A, the goose. B, the handle.

Figure 14. Piecing, piece of fabric which takes different shapes [fashioned] after the places that it must occupy in a coat [or suit], when that fabric isn't wide enough.

Figure 15. Patira, many selveges collected and stitched together forming a type of fabric on the which on smooths the braids.

Figure 16. Small block for pressing the curved seams.

Figure 17. Sparrow destined for the same use.

Figure 18. Weights for giving the fabrics a press, and giving them good pleats. AA, the bands. B, the weights. C, the handle.

Plate III: Tailor of Suits, Tools


Figure 1. Piece of chalk for drawing on the fabrics.

Figures 2. and 3. Skeins of linen and of silk [thread].

Figures 4. and 5. Silk and linen [thread] in balls.

Figures 6. and 7. Linen or silk [thread] cut in needle-fulls, the first braided, and the second wrapped in paper.

Figure 8. Stylus. A, the point. B, the handle.

Figure 9. Tweezer. A, the points. B, the handle.

Figure 10. Swatch book filled with samples of fabric which one takes [around] in town. AA, the swatches.

Figure 11. Swatch board. AA, the buckles to suspend it in the workshop. BB, the swatches.

Figure 12. Tailor's workbench. AA, the table. BBB, the feet. CCC, the curtains.

Figures 13. and 14. Trestles of the workbench. AA, the feet. BB, the [side] crossbraces. CC, the braces. DD, the supports.

Plate IV: Tailor of Suits, Fabrics and Measuring Tools


Figure 1. Bolt of drapery five-fourths [of an aune] wide, on which is drawn those pieces of a suit. As the fabric is always doubled [with] the right side inside and the wrong side [on the] outside, it isn't necessary but to draw only one piece in order to have the other [laid out] on the layer that faces it. A, front of coat. B, front of breeches. C, back of coat. D, back of breeches. E, outside of sleeve. F, underside of sleeve. G, pocket flap. H, piecing. II, bolt of wood on which one sometimes rolls the fabric. K, the fabric.

Figure 2. Bolt of fabric, all embroidered or not embroidered [at all] of silk, or of silver, one half aune wide, on which are drawn the pieces of a coat. The fabric being [a] single [layer], it needs to have in length that which it doesn't have in width. AA, coat fronts. BB, undersides of sleeves. C, part of the coat back. DD, bolt of wood, on which one sometimes rolls the fabric with paper on the right side when it is valuable. E, the fabric.

Figure 3. Coat measurements. AAA, half of the size of the body at the top. AAB, half the size of the body at the middle. AAC, half the size of the body at the waistband. AAD, half of the size of the arm near the shoulder. AAE, half the size of the arm near the seam. AAF, size of the front half-width. AAG, size of the back half-width. AAH, total length of the sleeve at the seam. AAI, total length of the sleeve down to the wrist. AAK, length of the cut. AAL, length of the back. AAM, length of the front.

Figure 4. Waistcoat measurements. AAA, half the size of the body at the stomach. AAB, half the size of the body at the belly. AAC, half the size of the body at the waistband. AAD, length of the cut. AAE, length of the waistcoat.

Figure 5. Breeches measurements. AAA, half of the size of the top of the thigh. AAB, half of the size of the middle of the thigh. AAC, half of the size of the knee. AAD, length of the breeches. AAE, half of the waistband.

Figure 6. [An] aune [stick] seen on one side, divided in thirds, sixths, twelfths, and tweny-fourths. This is that which one calls the divisions and subdivisions of aunage in fact.

Figure 7. The same aune seen from the other side, divided in halves, fourths, eighths, and sixteenths, divisions and subdivisions of aunage stipulated in fact.

Plate V: Tailor of Suits, Today's Fashion


Figure 1. Coat. A, the cut. B, the skirt. C, the pleats. D, the pocket flap. E, the sleeve.

Figure 2. Waistcoat. A, the cut. B, the front skirt. C, the back skirt. D, the pocket flap. E, the sleeve.

Figure 3. Breeches. AA, the fronts. B, the waistband. CC, the pockets. DD, the garters.

Figure 4. Breeches with fall or 'bavarian' [breeches]. AA, the fronts. B, the waistband. CC, the pockets. D, the fall. EE, the garters.

Figure 5. Cassock. AA, the cassock. BB, the sleeves. C, the collar.

Figure 6. Abbot's long mantle. A, the mantle. B, the collar.

Figure 7. Abbot's short mantle. A, the mantle. B, the collar.

Figure 8. Riding-coat. AA, the cut. BB, the sleeves. C, the collar.

Figure 9. Dressing gown. A, the gown. B, the sleeve.

Figure 10. Judicial gown. A, the gown. B, the sleeve.

Figure 11. Gillet or small waistcoat without skirts. A, the cut. B, the sleeve.

Figure 12. Frock, style of coat of a new type. A, the cut. B, the skirt. C, the pleats. D, the pocket. E, the sleeve. F, the collar.

Plate VI: Tailor of Suits, Detailed Pieces of a Coat


Detailed pieces of a coat.

Figures 1. and 2. Front of coat. AA, the necks. BB, the shoulders. CC, the armscyes of the sleeves. DD, the cut. EE, the pleats. FF, the pockets. GG, the skirts. HH, [the] shortage of fabric.

Figures 3. and 4. Cran, piece of buckram intended to sustain the joining place of the pleats.

Figures 5. and 6. Coat piecings, pieces of fabric similar to that of the coat [and] intended to fill up that [part] which is missing, as in HH, fig. 1. and 2.

Figures 7. and 8. Border of buckram that one puts on the edges of the coat between the fabric and the lining to support on one piece the buttons, and on the other the buttonholes. AA, the neck part. BB, the edges.

Figures 9. and 10. Back of the coat. AA, the necks. BB, the shoulders. CC, the armscyes of the sleeves. DD, the cut. EE, the pleats. FF, the skirts. GG, [the] shortage of fabric.

Figures 11. and 12. Cran for the joining of the back pleats.

Figure 13. Collar.

Figure 14. Outside of coat sleeve.

Figure 15. Underside of coat sleeve.

Figures 16. and 17. Pocket flaps.

Figures 18. 19. 20. and 21. Crans.

Figures 22. and 23. Coat pockets.

Figure 24. and 25. Sleeve cuffs [or facings].

Plate VII: Tailor of Suits, Details


Detailed pieces of [a] waistcoat and breeches.

Figures 1. and 2. Waistcoat fronts. AA, the necks. BB, the shoulders. CC, the armscyes. DD, the cut. EE, the skirts. FF, the pocket openings.

Figures 3. and 4. Border of buckram for the waistcoat. AA, the necks.

Figures 5. and 6. Outside and underside of the waistcoat sleeve.

Figures 7. and 8. Pocket flaps.

Figures 9. and 10. Waistcoat crans.

Figures 11. and 12. Waistcoat backs. AA, the necklines. BB, the shoulders. CC, the armscyes. DD, the cut. EE, the skirts.

Figure 13. Back neck cran.

Figures 14. 15. 16. and 17. Crans.

Figures 18. and 19. Breeches fronts. AA, the knee parts.

Figure 20. The fly.

Figure 21. Back buckle. A, the buckle. B, the flap. C, the stop.

Figures 22. and 23. Breeches back. AA, the insides of the knee.

Figures 24. and 25. Breeches pockets.

Figures 26. and 27. Breeches garters. AA, the buttonholes of the buckles [sic].

Figure 28. Button mould.

Figure 29. First operation of a covered button, [a] round piece [of fabric] with stitches around it.

Figure 30. Second operation. A, the mould. B, the piece of fabric for forming the button.

Figure 31. Third and last operation, [the] finished button.

Figures 32. and 33. Waistband of the breeches. AA, the buttons. BB, the buttonholes.

Plate VIII: Tailor of Suits, Different Types of Frock [Coat] Collars, Pockets and Sleeves, Double-breasted Waistcoats, Patiras, Gussets, Tools, etc.


Figures 1. and 2. French collar.

Figures 3. and 4. German collar.

Figures 5. and 6. English collar.

Figures 7. and 8. Frock [coat] pockets.

Figures 9. 10. and 11. Frock sleeves of different styles.

Figure 12. Double breasted waistcoat. A, the neck. BB, the armscyes. CC, the skirts. D, the crossed part.

Figure 13. Large patira. AA, the selveges sewn together.

Figure 14. Pressing-stick for the leather breeches.

Figure 15. Pounding-block for the leather breeches.

Figure 16. Leather breeches fall. AA, the flaps. B, the point. CC, the 'ears'.

Figures 17. and 18. Breeches side pockets.

Figures 19. and 20. Large and small gussets of breeches.

Figures 21. and 22. Breeches back pockets.

Plate IX: Tailor of Suits, Stitches, Front Stitch, Side Stitch, Back Stitch, Laced Stitch, Hem Stitch, Drawing-in Stitch, Lost Stitch, Cross Stitch, Cast Stich, Channel Stitch


Sewing Stitches

Figures 1. 2. and 3. Cross section and positions of [the] top and the bottom of the front stitch in piercing the two fabrics from top-to-bottom and from bottom-to-top.

Figures 4. 5. and 6. Side stitch taking the thread underneath by the outside, after having pierced the two fabrics.

Figures 7. 8. and 9. Back stitch or stitch backwards, repiercing from top-to-bottom in the middle of the back stitch, after having pierced from bottom-to-top.

Figures 10. 11. and 12. Laced stitch [is] like the back stitch, except that it's made in two movements, returning to the top one tightens the stitch, and returning the needle one repierces behind as in the preceding.

Figures 13. 14. and 15. Overhand hem stitch piercing from top-to-bottom and from bottom-to-top in front, the stitches densely spaced and even.

Figures 16. 17. and 18. Underhand hem stitch [is] like the last, except that having pierced the upper fabric one pierces the lower fabric at the outside, one pierces the two together fortifying.

Figures 19. 20. and 21. Drawing-in stitch, like overhand hem stitch, is made in two movements, in returning the needle [to the begining of the next stitch]; before all [that] it needs to join with simple stitch the two folded back sides of the fabric, one draws up this stitch every two cycles, this requires very little of the fabric and very short stitches.

The lost stitch is nothing but a back stitch added to the preceding.

Figures 22. 23. and 24. Cross stitch, sewing with two crossed threads.

Figure 25. For the first operation [in making a buttonhole]; cast stitch or 'the channel', this is the [outline of the] buttonhole traced with 2 threads. B, the channel closed with the buttonhole stitch. C, the channel made and finished with two bars at each end, which one encloses with two ranks of knotted stitches.

Plate X: Tailor of Suits, Single-knotted Stitches of Different Types, Double-knotted Stitches, Single and Double Crossed Stitches of Different Types


Figures 1. 2. and 3. Single knotted stitches of nine different types.

Figure 4. Double knotted stitches of three different types.

Figures 5. 6. and 7. Single and double crossed stitches of nine different types.

Plate XI: Tailor of Suits, Different Manners of Cutting Drapery of Various Aunages for Coat, Waistcoat and Breeches, for Coat and Waistcoat, for Coat and Breeches, and for Breeches Alone


Figure 1. Three and one-half aunes of drapery fabric, containing the layout of the pieces which compose the coat, waistcoat, and breeches. [A, coat front. B, coat back. C, waistcoat front. D, waistcoat back. E, coat sleeve. F, waistcoat sleeve. G, coat pocket flap. H, waistcoat pocket flap. I, coat sleeve cuff. K, piecing. L, breeches front. M, breeches back.]

Figure 2. Three aunes of drapery for coat and waistcoat alone.

Figure 3. Two and one-half aunes of drapery for coat and breeches.

Figure 4. One-half aune of drapery for breeches alone. A, coat front. B, coat back. C, waistcoat front. D, waistcoat back. E, coat sleeve. F, waistcoat sleeve. G, coat pocket flap. H, waistcoat pocket flap. L, breeches front. M, breeches back. [sic]

Plate XII: Tailor of Suits, Different Manners of Cutting Drapery of Various Aunages for Waistcoat and Breeches, for Frock Alone, for Coat Alone, for Waistcoat Alone, for Riding Coat Alone and for Sleeveless Waistcoat


Figure 1. One and one-half aunes of drapery for waistcoat and breeches.

Figure 2. One and three quarters aunes of drapery for frock alone.

Figure 3. Two aunes of drapery for coat alone.

Figure 4. One aune of drapery for waistcoat alone.

Figure 5. Two and one-half aunes of drapery for [a] riding coat.

Figure 6. Two thirds aune of drapery for waistcoat without sleeve[s]. A, waistcoat front. B, waistcoat back. C, breeches front. D, breeches back. E, back [sic] of sleeve. F, under sleeve. G. pocket flap. H, frock front. I, frock back. K, cuff. L, frock collar. M, coat front. N, coat back. O, piecing. P, riding coat front. S, vest front. T, vest back. V, vest skirts.

Plate XIII: Tailor of Suits, Drapery of Various Aunages for Roquelaure and Collars, Short Cassock, Volant and Cassock


Figure 1. Two and three quarters aunes of drapery for roquelaure with sleeves. A, front. B, back. CC, piecings. D, outside of sleeve. E, underside of sleeve. F, collar. GG, cuffs.

Figure 2. One-half aune of drapery for roquelaure collars. A, the upper. B, the lower.

Figure 3. One and three quatre aunes of drapery for [a] short cassock. A, the front. B, the back. C, the flap. D, the underside of the sleeve. E, the outside of the sleeve. FF, the cuffs.

Figure 4. One and one-half aunes of drapery for a volant. A, the front. B, the back. C, the outside of the sleeve. D, the underside of the sleeve. EE, the cuffs.

Figure 5. Three and one third aunes of drapery for [a] cassock. A, the front. B, the back. CC, the piecings. DD, the cuffs. E, the outside of the sleeve. F, the underside of the sleeve.

Plate XIV: Tailor of Suits, Large Mantle of Four Aunes of Drapery, Narrow Width Fabric for Dressing Gown, and Voile or Taffeta for an Abbot's Mantle


Figure 1. Four aunes of drapery unfolded [on the table] for [a] mantle. AB, the two lateral parts, the seam [being] at the middle of the back. CC, the collar, in two parts.

Figure 2. Three and one-half aunes of fabric, one-half aune wide, for [a] dressing gown. A, the front. B, the back. C, the outside of the sleeve. D, the underside of the sleeve. E, the piecing. FF, the cuffs.

Figure 3. Four aunes of voile or taffeta for [an] abbot's mantle. AA, the parts of the mantle. B, the piecing. CC, the collar.

Plate XV: Tailor of Suits, Narrow Width Fabric of Different Aunages for Coat, Waistcoat and Breeches and for Waistcoat Alone


Figures 1. 2. 3. and 4. Nine and one-half aunes of silk fabric for [a] coat, waistcoat, and breeches. AA, the coat fronts. BB, the piecings for the pleats of the coat fronts. CC, the coat backs. DD, the piecings of the pleats of the coat backs. EE, the waistcoat fronts. FF, the outside of the coat sleeve. GG, the underside of the coat sleeve. HH, the sleeve cuffs. II, the coat's pocket flaps. KK, the waistcoat backs. LL, the waistcoat outer sleeve. MM, the waistcoat undersleeve. NN, the breeches fronts. OO, the breeches backs. PP, the waistcoat's pocket flaps.

Figures 5. and 6. Two and two thirds aunes of silk fabric for [a] waistcoat alone. AA, the fronts. BB, the backs. CC, the outside of the sleeve. DD, the underside of the sleeve. EE, the [pocket] flaps.

Plate XVI: Tailor of Suits, Narrow Width Fabric for Coat, Waistcoat and Breeches, Half View


Figures 1. and 2. Eight aunes of silk fabric for [a] coat and waistcoat alone, of which these two figures show half.

Figure 3. Five and one third aunes of silk fabric for [a] coat alone, of which the figure shows half.

Figure 4. Six and two thirds aunes [of silk fabric] for [a] coat and breeches, of which the figure shows half.

Figure 5. Four aunes of silk fabric for [a] waistcoat and breeches, of which the figure shows half.

Figure 6. One and one-half aunes of silk fabric for breeches, of which the figure shows half. A, coat front. B, coat back. C, piecings of the pleats of the coat front. D, piecings of the pleats of the coat back. E, waistcoat front. F, waistcoat back. G, outer sleeve of coat. H, under sleeve of coat. I, cuff sleeve. M, coat [pocket] flap. N, waistcoat [pocket] flap. O, breeches front. P, breeches back. Q, breeches waistband. R, breeches front fly.

Plate XVII: Tailor of Suits, Narrow Width Fabric of Different Aunages for Vest, Frock, Riding Coat, Roquelaure, Shirt, Short Waistocat and Short Cassock, Half View


Figure 1. Two aunes of silk fabric for [a] vest, of which the figure gives half.

Figure 2. Four and one-half aunes of silk fabric for [a] frock alone, of which the figure shows you half.

Figure 3. Six and one-half aunes of fabric for [a] riding coat, of which the figure shows you half.

Figure 4. Seven aunes of fabric for [a] roquelaure, of which the figure shows you half.

Figure 5. One-half aune of fabric for a shirt, of which the figure shows you half.

Figure 6. Two-thirds [aune] of fabric for [a] short waistcoat, of which the figure shows you half.

Figure 7. Two aunes of fabric for [a] short cassock, of which the figure shows you half. A, frock front. B, frock back. C, piecings. D, cuff. E, outside of sleeve. F, underside of sleeve. G, collar. H, pocket flap. I, vest front. K, vest back. L, riding coat front. M, riding coat back. N, roquelaure front. O, roquelaure back. P, shirt front. Q, shirt back. R, short waistcoat front. S, short waistcoat back. T, short cassock front. V, short cassock back.

Plate XVIII: Tailor of Suits, Narrow Width Fabric for Cassock, Dressing Gown, Judicial Gown, Half View


Figures 1. and 2. Nine and one third aunes of fabric for [a] cassock, of which the figure shows you half. A, front of the cassock. B, back of the cassock. C, underside of the sleeve. D, outside of the sleeve. EE, cuffs. F, front piecing. G, back piecing.

Figure 3. Six and one-half aunes of fabric for [a] dressing gown, of which the figure gives but the half. A, front of the gown. B, back of the gown. C, front piecing. D, back piecing. E, collar. F, sleeve. G, cuff.

Figures 4. and 5. Seven and two thirds aunes of fabric for a judicial gown, of which the figure gives half. A, the front. B, the back. C, front piecing. D, back piecing. E, sleeve. F, cuff.

Plate XIX: Tailor of Suits, Narrow Width Fabric for Clothing, an Abbot's Long Mantle


Sixteen and one-half aunes for an abbot's long mantle. AA, etc. the pieces of the mantle. BB, the collar. C, the piecing.

Plate XX: Tailor of Bodices, Closed Bodice and Open Bodice, Front View


Figure 1. Bodies closed in front seen from the outside, with braided [double ended] lacing. A, the lacing. BB, the fronts, CC, the backs, DD the shoulder straps, EE, the skirts, FF, edges covering the lacing eyelets.

Figure 2. Bodies opening 'à la duchesse' seen from the outside. AA, the fronts. BB, the backs, C, the lacing 'à la duchesse'. DD, the shoulder straps. E, the skirts.

Figures 3. and 4. Back of closed or open [in front] bodies. AA, the backs. BB, the shoulders. CC. the underarms. DD, the skirts.

Figures 5. and 6. Front of closed bodies. AA, bust [stomacher] pieces. BB, the fronts. CC, the point. DD, the shoulders. EE, the underarms. FF, the skirts.

Figures 7. and 8. Front of open bodies. AA, the eyelets. BB, the shoulders. CC, the underarms. DD, the skirts. EE, the point.

Plate XXI: Tailor of Bodices, Patterns of English and French Bodices, Closed and Open


Figure 1. and 2. Pattern of fronts of English bodies, closed in front. AA, bust sections. BB, the fronts. CC, the point. DD, the shoulders. EE, the underarms. FF the skirts. GG, edges covering the eyelets.

Figures 3. and 4. Pattern of back of English bodies. AA, the backs. BB, the shoulders. CC, the underarms. DD the skirts.

Figures 5. and 6. Pattern of fronts of French bodies, closed in front. AA, the fronts. BB, the point. CC, the shoulders. DD, the underarms. EE, the skirts.

Figures 7. and 8. Pattern of back of French bodies. AA, the backs. BB, the shoulders. CC, the underarms. DD, the skirts.

Figures 9. and 10. Patterns of fronts of English bodies, opening in front. AA, the fronts. BB, the point. CC, the shoulders. DD, the underarms. EE, the skirts.

Figures 11. and 12. Patterns of back of English bodies. AA, the backs. BB, the shoulders. CC, the underarms. DD, the skirts.

Plate XXII: Tailor of Bodices, Patterns of Front and Back of French Bodice, Different Operations to Measure Bodices, Jumps, Fully-Boned Stays and Inside Arrangement of Quilting and Supporting Whalebones


Figures 1. and 2. Patterns of fronts of French bodies, opening in front. AA, the fronts. BB, the point. CC, the shoulders, DD, the underarms. EE, the skirts.

Figures 3. and 4. Pattern of backs of French bodies, opening in front. AA, the backs. BB, the shoulders. CC, the underarms. DD, the skirts.

Figure 5. Method to take the measure of bodies. AB, first operation, from the middle of the back just to the corner of the shoulder strap. CD, second operation, the width of the front. AD, third operation, from the back exactly to the front at the top. EF, fourth operation, width of the cut of the back. GH, fifth operation, length of the cut from the top to the bottom just to the hip. DI, sixth and last operation, length of the front.

Figure 6. Side view of half whalebone bodies, called whalebone corset.

Figure 7. Side view of full whalebone bodies.

Figure 8. Bodies seen in interior side view to show the arrangement of the pieces

Figure 9. Bodies seen with the front inside to show the arrangement of controlling whalebones.

Plate XXIII: Tailor of Bodices, Bodices of Different Types


Figure 1. Grand bodies for court or for grand court dress seen in profile.

Figure 2. Bodies for women who ride horseback seen in profile.

Figure 3. Bodies for pregnant women laced by the two sides at A.

Figure 4. Girl's bodies.

Figure 5. Boy's bodies.

Figure 6. Boy's bodies for his first pants.

Figures 7. and 8. Whalebone busks which are placed in the layers of the front of the bodies. AA, the buckles to restrain them

Figure 9. Tipped side (single point) lacing. AA, aiglets

Figure 10. Tipped braided (double pointed) lacing. A, the aiglet

Figure 11. Measure[ment strip] of bodies

Figures 12. and 13. Whalebone of various sizes to fill with.

Figure 14. Method to make the eyelet. A, first operation, the hole made with the stiletto through the thickness of the bodies. B, second operation, the first stitches filled in. C, third and last operation, the eyelet finished.

Plate XXIV: Tailor of Bodices, Open Stays with Duchess Style Lacing, Patterns of Sleeves, Front and Back of Bodice, Bottom of Court Gown, Frock for Boys and Open Gown for Girls


Figure 1. Bodies opening in front with lacing 'à la duchesse'.

Figure 2. Under-sleeve of corset.

Figure 3. Outer-sleeve of corset.

Figures 4. and 5. Front and back of corset.

Figures 6. and 7. Patterns of front and back of corset.

Figure 8. Train of court dress or of grand dress.

Figure 9. Jacket or wrapping for the boys.

Figures 10. and 11. False dresses for the girls.