ram alle halowenetyd for here work shullen take for þe cloth xviij.d.: ffram þe annunciacioun of oure lady, and of þat tyme for to an-oþer tyme of al halowene, ij.s.
And doþ to wetynge þat non ne shal make burelle werk, but ȝif he be of þe ffraunchyse of þe town, out-nome þt eueriche fullere makye oon by ȝere, and euerych makyere on y-nome þe kynges ferme.
Aff oþere halue, doþ to wetynge þt þe chaloun of fowre ellen and o quarter of langnesse, [ It seems clear, from the measurements given, that the ell named in this "Usage" was the Flemish ell, of three quarters (27 inches). With the "Usage" itself, and the one that follows, the statute 4 Ed. IV. c. 1 (A. D. 1464), as to the length and breadth of broad cloths, &c., should be compared. It was not passed till more, probably, than a century later than the time of these "Usages of Winchester;" but it shows that the necessity for some regulations, to prevent fraud, had then become general, and were not confined to Winchester. It is a very remarkable statute. It begins by reciting that,—
"Whereas many years past, and now at this day, the workmanship of cloth, and things requisite to the same, is and hath been of such fraud, deceit, and falsity, that the said cloths in other lands and countries be had in small reputation, to the great shame of this land; and by reason thereof a great quantity of cloths of other strange lands be brought into this realm, and there sold at an high and excessive price, evidently shewing the offence, default, and falsehood of the making of woollen cloths of this land; Our said lord the king, for the remedy of the premises, and to the preferment of such labours and occupations which have been used by the making of the said cloths, by the advice, assent, request, and authority aforesaid, hath ordained and established certain Statutes and Ordinances in manner and form ensuing."
It is then enacted:—
"First, that every whole woollen cloth, called broad cloth, which shall be made and set to sale after the feast called St. Peter ad vincula, which shall be in the year of our Lord M.CCCC.LXV., after the full watering, racking, straining, or tenturing of the same, ready to sale, shall hold and contain in length xxiv yards, and to every yard an inch, containing the breadth of a man's thumb, to be measured by the crest of the same cloth, and in breadth ij yards, or vij quarters at the least, within the lists; and if the said cloth be longer in measure than the said xxiv yards, and the inches, then the buyer thereof shall pay to the seller for as much as doth exceed such measure of xxiv yards, according to the rate of the measure above ordained. And it is enacted and established by the authority aforesaid, That all manner of cloths called streits, to be made and put to sale after the same feast, after the full watering, racking, straining, or tenturing thereof, ready to sale, shall hold and contain in length xij yards and the inches, according to the measure aforesaid, and in breadth one yard within the lists. Also it is ordained and established by the authority aforesaid, That every cloth called kersey, to be made and put to sale after the said feast, after the full watering, racking, straining, or tenturing of the same, ready to sale, shall hold and contain in length xviij yards and the inches as is aforesaid, and in breadth one yard and a nail, or at the least one yard, within the lists."
The Act goes on to ordain penalties against certain mixtures with the woollen cloth; that cloth shall be made of uniform workmanship, "without difference in the weaving, fulling, knotting, or burling;" and that every piece of cloth shall be sealed with a seal, showing, by its shape and make, what is the quality and quantity of the cloth (in fact, an assay-mark). Provision is then made for the appointment of Keepers of the cloth seals (who are called "Aulnegers"), their duties and rewards. It is then recited that, "Whereas before this time, in the occupations of clothmaking, the labourers thereof have been driven to take a great part of their wages in pins, girdles, and other unprofitable wares, under such price as stretcheth not to the extent of their lawful wages, and also have delivered to them wools to be wrought by very excessive weight, which hath driven, and driveth men and women into discourage of such labour;" and it is enacted, under penalties, that clothmakers shall pay their "labourers, in any part of the said trade, lawful money for all their lawful wages and payment of the same," and shall deliver wool to them according to the due weight. On the other hand, the workmen, and especially the fullers, are enjoined to duly perform their duty in their occupations; likewise under penalties. Provision is made for the hearing and disposal, by the local authorities of every place, of all complaints and cases arising under these two last clauses. The whole statute is well worth careful study. Probably it did not touch the sort of woollen goods named in the above "Usages," because those Usages, kept alive under the vigilant eye of the bailiffs of Winchester, had already been found strong enough to meet the case. As to the means and the care formerly taken for the prevention of trade frauds, see further the General Note at the end of these Usages.
] shal habbe tweye ellen and an halfe