Travels in Southeastern Europe

The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.

350 THE BURDEN OF THE BALKANS. I never attended service in any of the Catholic churches without being struck with the difference betweer the grip they have on the people, who listen in awe-struck silence to their eloquent sermons, and the slack, indifferent spirit shown in the Greek churches of the South, Durazzo (Dyrrachiumh), formerly an island, is joined to the mainland by a huge marsh, partly salt, where the Government saltworks are, and partly fresh, and haunted by storks, frogs and fevers. For a Turkish port it is fairly flourishing. The Government, with unwonted energy, is making a road round the point by building a rough sea-Wall, largely of smashed-up Roman remains, funeral slabs, columnns, and inscriptions. But Durazzo is often visited by boat, and is well known to Europeans, I will, therefore, not describe its antiquities, I lived luxuriously at the big han, for tny room had not only a bedstead, but a chair and table-the first I had met for many a long day-and a convenient cookshop over the way supplied food that tasted better than it looked. The han, like an old English one, is built round a yard, and has big balconies, in One of which lived a huge pet ram called Napoleon, with curly horns and a massive Roman ntose, which the serving-men usually stopped to kiss as they passed. When it wanted a drink it baa'd loudly, and someone escorted it downstairs to the horsetrough in the yard, which was always picturesque with zaptiehs and suvarris, kirijees, and pack-beasts, The Albanians are fond of animals. I have never
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About this Item

Title
The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.
Author
Durham, Mary Edith, 1863-1944.
Canvas
Page 350
Publication
London :: Nelson,
[1905]
Subject terms
Eastern question (Balkan)
Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel.

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https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ans3900.0001.001
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https://quod.lib.umich.edu/b/bosnia/ans3900.0001.001/357

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"The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham." In the digital collection Travels in Southeastern Europe. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ans3900.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 30, 2025.
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