The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.

TEPELEN TO ELBASAN. 305 Police Commissary had better accompany me everywhere. He did. I had only to appear in the street, and he sprang out of the ground and watched me as a cat does a mouse. I walked him round and round the bazar for the sole purpose of exercising him till he was sincerely sorry I was ' suspect.' I offered, also, to show him the contents of both my saddle-bags. He knew I was laughing at him, and could not see the joke. Several Christians asked me to visit them, but sent afterwards to say they were afraid of receiving me lest they should be persecuted by the Government when I had left. 'The Vali of Janina, the head of the vilayet, is a " Turk of Turks,"' I was told by some foreign residents, ' and persecutes the Albanian language, and everything that tends towards instructing the Christians. The Kaimmakam is not really a bad man, but terrified of the Vali. Among the Albanians themselves there is no religious hatred, but the party for the liberation of Albania has been held back till lately by the jealousies of the local Albanian Begs.' News came in while I was at Avlona that the new 'reform scheme' had been accepted but was not to apply to this vilayet, and caused great dismay. All the money would now go to the pockets of the foreign officers, who were doubtless already rich, nobody else would be paid, and no good would be done anywhere. The recent increase of the beast-tax is falling very hardly on these people, as they are great meat-eaters. One of the foreign Consuls said

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Title: The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.
Author: Durham, Mary Edith, 1863-1944.
Canvas: Page 305
Publication: London :: Nelson,; [1905]
Subject terms: Eastern question (Balkan); Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel.

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Collection: Travels in Southeastern Europe
Link to this Item: https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ans3900.0001.001
Link to this scan: https://quod.lib.umich.edu/b/bosnia/ans3900.0001.001/312

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Full citation: "The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham." In the digital collection Travels in Southeastern Europe. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ans3900.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 30, 2025.

The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.

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