The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.

MONASTIR TO TEPELEN.. 269 they required doing up; they were specklessly clean to begin with. The Dutch are said to be the cleanest housewives, but I believe the South Albanians would run them hard. The town is clean, well built, and most beautifully situated on the edge of the blue-green Viosa, which tears through a gully it has cut for itself in the loose soil. There are 7,000 inhabitants, three mosques, three churches, a Christian girl and boy school, and a Moslem boy school. A huge isolated rock, a fragment fallen from the mountain above, lies out boldly by the river's edge, crowned with the ruins of a monastery, the dwelling-place of some forgotten saint, and a spring of holy water flows from its base. On the hill just above is a mass of ruined walls, all that is left of the fortresses built in Ali Pasha's time. Perhaps it was because I came to it out of stones and barrenness that, as I saw it from the ruins of Ali Pasha's fortress, Permeti, with its tall cypresses, purple Judas-trees, and delicate spring greenery, seemed one of the fair spots of the world. But it is on the edge of the wilderness, and the soldier threw back his head and yowled aloud, to imitate the wolves of a winter's night when the snow is deep on the mountain. Permeti, too, had a due respect for the capabilities of Kolonia, and remembered the day, twenty years ago, when a band had swept down and carried off a Moslem maiden, the fierce fight, and the struggle in the then bridgeless river which drowned several of the combatants. The Kaimmakam duly returned my visit. An
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About this Item

Title
The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham.
Author
Durham, Mary Edith, 1863-1944.
Canvas
Page 269
Publication
London :: Nelson,
[1905]
Subject terms
Eastern question (Balkan)
Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel.

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"The burden of the Balkans / by M. Edith Durham." In the digital collection Travels in Southeastern Europe. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ans3900.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 1, 2025.
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