It is a black silk damask haori (short jacket for kimono) with wax-resist patterns, hand-painted design and metallic threads embroidery. The haori is in medium length, covering just underneath hip. It has elongated sleeves. The silk fabric is woven in a twill pattern of palace carts and flower baskets. Then the fabric is dyed with black. The white family crest under the collar and the diagonal part where chrysanthemum design would appear are left out from dying. The pinkish orange scale pattern is added using wax-resist technique. Chrysanthemum design is hand-painted with white, red, yellow, and blue colors. Finally embroidery is added in various metallic threads around the contours of the chrysanthemum petals and leaves.
Orange satin damask lining with woven wave design, with stenciled (?) designs of white flying cranes. Silver cord on one side, gold on the other, both with tassels.
The haori was originally part of a man’s formal attire, but in the nineteenth century, female entertainers in Edo (modern Tokyo) adopted it as a cloak for outdoor wear in mild weather. By the end of the century, married women of the upper class adopted black crepe silk haori with family crests (such as that seen here, at the back of the collar) for formal, public occasions. For much of the twentieth century, the haori has been the standard outerwear for a woman who dresses in a kimono outside the home. The twill pattern of palace carts and flower baskets is a traditional auspicious theme for Japanese women’s wear. Chrysanthemums are motifs of autumn season, and traditional clothes with this flower design are usually worn in fall.